Plan Your Trip 1

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Rome
All youve got to do is decide to go
and the hardest part is over.

So go!
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PL ANET

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Abigail Blasi, Duncan Garwood

 Contents
Plan
PlanYour Trip page 1
YourTrip
Welcome to Rome........... 4
Romes Top 10................. 6
Whats New.....................13
Need to Know.................14
First Time Rome.............16
Explore Rome
Ancient Rome................50
Centro Storico............... 70
Tridente, Trevi
& the Quirinale...............98
Vatican City, Borgo
& Prati........................... 120
Understand Rome
Rome Today.................224
History..........................226
Survival Guide 
Transport.....................266
Directory AZ.............. 272
Rome Maps 
4
Top Itineraries................18 For Free.......................... 27
If You Like.......................20 Eating............................28
Month by Month............ 22 Drinking & Nightlife...36
With Kids........................ 24 Entertainment............ 40
Like a Local.................... 26 Shopping...................... 44
46
Monti, Esquilino Villa Borghese
& San Lorenzo............. 140 & Northern Rome.........181
Trastevere Southern Rome........... 193
& Gianicolo................... 158
Day Trips
San Giovanni from Rome................. 205
& Testaccio................... 171
Sleeping......................214
223
The Arts.......................239 The Roman
Way of Life....................262
Architecture.................250
265
Language..................... 278
Index............................. 287
297
 ANDREA WYNER / GETTY IMAGES

IZZET KERIBAR / GETTY IMAGES

(left) Via del Boschetto
p154 One of Montis

LISA KYLE YOUNG / GETTY IMAGES

best shopping streets.

(above) Basilica di
Santa Maria Maggiore
p143 Stained-glass
window.

(right) A gelateria store

display p33

Villa Borghese &

Northern Rome
p181

Vatican City,
Borgo & Prati
p120 Tridente, Trevi &
the Quirinale
p98
Centro Monti, Esquilino &
Storico San Lorenzo
p70 p140
Ancient
Rome
Trastevere & p50
Gianicolo
p158
San Giovanni
& Testaccio
p171

Southern
Rome
p193
 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
6
Romes
Top 10
Colosseum (p52)
1 No photograph can prepare you for the
thrill of seeing the Colosseum for the first
time. For 2000 years this muscular arena
has stood as the symbol of Roman power, as
the striking embodiment of the terrible awe
that Rome once inspired, and its looking
more splendid than ever following a recent
restoration. As you climb its steeply stacked
stands, try to imagine them full of spectators
screaming for blood a chilling thought.
1 Ancient Rome
Museo e Galleria Borghese (p183)
2 Everybodys heard of Michelangelo and
the Sistine Chapel, but Rome is as much
about baroque art as it is the Renaissance, and
the Museo e G alleria Borghese is the place to
see it. Youll need to book ahead but its a small
price to pay to see Berninis amazing baroque
sculptures, as well as works by Canova, Cara-
vaggio, Raphael and Titian. And afterwards,
the surrounding Villa Borghese park is the
perfect place to digest what youve just seen.
RIGHT: BERNINIS RATTO DI PROSERPINA (RAPE OF PROSERPINA)
1Villa Borghese & Northern Rome
DREAMSTIME / GETTY IMAGES
7
IRISPHOTO1 / GETTY IMAGES
8
Pantheon (p72)
3 The best preserved of Romes ancient
monuments, the Pantheon is a truly
remarkable building. Its huge columned
portico and thick-set walls impress, but
its only when you get inside that you get
PL A N YO U R TRI P R ome s T op 1 0
the full measure of the place. Its vast, and
youll feel very small as you look up at the
record-breaking dome soaring above your
head. Adding to the effect are the shafts
of light that stream in through the central
oculus (the circular opening at the domes
apex), illuminating the royal tombs set into
the circular marble-clad walls.
1 Centro Storico
Vatican Museums (p126)
4 Rome boasts many artistic highlights,
but few are as overpowering as Mi-
chelangelos frescoes in the Sistine Chap-
el. A kaleidoscopic barrage of colours and
images, they come as the grand finale of
the Vatican Museums, Romes largest and
most popular art museum. Inside the vast
complex, kilometre upon kilometre of cor-
ridors are lined with classical sculptures,
paintings and tapestries as they lead
inexorably towards the Raphael Rooms,
a suite of four rooms brilliantly frescoed
by Raphael, and, beyond that, the Sistine
Chapel. RIGHT: GALLERY OF MAPS
1 Vatican City,
Borgo & Prati
JUSTIN FOULKES / GETTY IMAGES
 9
IZZET KERIBAR / GETTY IMAGES

PL A N YO U R TRI P R ome s T op 1 0
St Peters
MAREMAGNUM / GETTY IMAGES

Basilica (p122)
5 You dont have to be a be-
liever to be bowled over
by St Peters Basilica, Romes
largest and most spectacular
church. Everything about the
place is astonishing, from
the sweeping piazza that an-
nounces it to the grandiose
facade and unbelievably
opulent interior. Topping
everything is Michelangelos
extraordinary dome, a mould-
breaking masterpiece of
Renaissance architecture
and one of Romes landmark
sights. This is a building that
was designed to inspire awe,
and even in a city of churches
like Rome it stands head and
shoulders above everything
else.
1 Vatican City,
Borgo & Prati
10
Via Appia
Antica (p195)
6 The most famous of
Romes ancient roads,
and one of the citys most
sought-after addresses, the
PL A N YO U R TRI P R ome s T op 1 0
Appian Way is a gorgeous
place to be on a clear,
sunny morning. Running
through lush green fields
and littered with piles of
greying ruins, its the very
picture of pastoral Italian
beauty. But the bucolic
scenery belies the roads
bloodstained history. It
was here that Spartacus
and 6000 of his slave army
were crucified, and it was
here that the early Chris-
tians buried their dead in
the catacombs.
1 Southern Rome
Capitoline
Museums (p61)
7 In ancient times, the
Campidoglio (Capi-
toline Hill) was home to
Romes two most impor-
tant temples. Nowadays,
the main reason to make
the short, steep climb to
the top is to admire the
views and visit the Capito-
line Museums on Piazza del
Campidoglio. The worlds
oldest public museums
harbour some fantastic
classical statuary, including
the celebrated Lupa Capi-
tolina (Capitoline Wolf), an
icon of early Etruscan art,
and some really wonderful
paintings. And make sure
you bring your camera
for the masonry littered
around the entrance
courtyard. RIGHT: STATUE OF
CONSTANTINE
1 Ancient Rome
An Evening in
Trastevere (p163)
8 One of the great joys
of Rome is eating and
drinking well, especially in
summer when its warm
enough to dine al fresco,
and the citys animated
streets are packed until the
early hours. And nowhere
is better for a night out
than the picture-perfect
neighbourhood of Traste-
vere. Over the river from
the historic centre, its
medieval lanes, hidden
piazzas and pastel-hued
palazzi (mansions) harbour
hundreds of bars, cafes,
trattorias and restaurants
catering to a nightly crowd
of up-for-it Romans and
besotted visitors.
5 Trastevere &
Gianicolo
JANNISWERNER / GETTY IMAGES
11

PL A N YO U R TRI P R ome s T op 1 0
MARK HORN / GETTY IMAGES GLENN BEANLAND / GETTY IMAGES
12
Trevi Fountain (p102)
9

KOCHMANSKI / GETTY IMAGES

A stop at Romes largest and most
famous fountain is a traditional rite
of passage for visitors to Rome. Every day
crowds gather to toss coins into the foun-
tains water and ensure that one day theyll
PL A N YO U R TRI P R O M E S T O P 1 0

return to the Eternal City. The fountain,

designed by Nicola Salvi in the 18th century,
is a gloriously over-the-top rococo affair
depicting wild horses, mythical figures and
cascading rock falls. After a lengthy restora-
tion, unveiled in 2015, its looking particu-
larly splendid, and is most spellbinding when
illuminated after night falls.
1 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale

DIGITALER LUMPENSAMMLER / GETTY IMAGES

Roman Forum & Palatine (p57)

10 To walk through the tumbledown ruins of the Roman Forum is to retrace the
footsteps of the great figures of Roman history, such as Julius Caesar and
Pompey. However broken the remains, its a stirring experience to stand at the heart
of the R
oman Empire. Nearby, the Palatino (Palatine Hill), a green expanse of evocative
ruins, is where it all began, where Romulus supposedly killed Remus and founded the
city in 753 BC, and where the ancient Roman emperors lived in unimaginable luxury.
1 Ancient Rome
 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
297

Rome Maps
Sights Information Routes
Beach Bank Tollway
Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway
Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary
Castle/Palace Internet Secondary
Christian Police Tertiary
Confucian Post Office Lane
Hindu Telephone Unsealed road
Islamic Toilet Road under construction
Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall
Jewish Other Information Steps
Monument Tunnel
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass
Ruin Beach Walking Tour
Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour
Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail
Taoist Lighthouse
Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International
Other Sight Oasis State/Province
Park Disputed
Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb
Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park
Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff
Diving Wall
Canoeing/Kayaking Population
Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek
Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River
Snorkelling Town/Village Canal
Surfing
Swimming/Pool Transport Water
Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Windsurfing Border crossing
Reef
Other Activity Bus

Sleeping
Cable car/Funicular Areas
Cycling
Airport/Runway
Sleeping Ferry
Camping Metro station Beach/Desert
Monorail
Eating Parking
Cemetery (Christian)
Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other)
S-Bahn/Subway station
Drinking & Nightlife Taxi
Glacier
Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat
Cafe Train station/Railway
Park/Forest
Tram
Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building)
Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station
Sportsground
Other Transport
Shopping Swamp/Mangrove
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above
appear on the maps in this book
298

TRIESTE

FLAMINIO
PARIOLI

TRIONFALE VILLA
BORGHESE
SALARIO
"

4

VATICAN CITY PRATI TRIDENTE

(CITT DEL CAMPO SALLUSTIANO
VATICANO) BORGO MARZIO
"

2
"

10 TIBURTINO
COLONNA TREVI
PONTE
"

5
PARIONE
REGOLA PIGNA
MONTI SAN LORENZO
"

3
GIANICOLO
ESQUILINO
TRASTEVERE
"

9

CAMPITELLI
"

1 SAN GIOVANNI "

8
TUSCOLANO
"

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CELIO

TESTACCIO
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# 0 1 mile

MAP INDEX
1 Ancient Rome (p300) 4 Tridente, Trevi & the 7 Trastevere 10 Villa Borghese &
2 Centro Storico Quirinale (p308) & Gianicolo (p316) Northern Rome (p324)
North (p304) 5 Vatican City, Borgo 8 San Lorenzo (p319) 11 Southern Rome (p326)
3 Centro Storico & Prati (p312) 9 Monti & Esquilino (p320)
South (p306) 6 San Giovanni
& Testaccio (p314)
ANCIENT ROME Map on p300
Top Sights (p52)
1 Capitoline Museums....................... B4
2 Colosseum....................................... G6
3 Imperial Forums.............................. C2
4 Palatino ............................................ D7
5 Roman Forum ................................. D5
Sights (p64)
6 Arcate Severiane ............................ D8
7 Arco di Costantino...........................F6
8 Arco di Giano ................................... B6
9 Arco di Settimio Severo ................. C4
10 Arco di Tito .......................................E5
11 Basilica di Massenzio ......................E4
12 Basilica di San Marco ..................... A2
13 Basilica di SS Cosma e
Damiano........................................ D4
14 Basilica Fulvia Aemilia.................... D4
15 Basilica Giulia .................................. C4
16 Basilica Ulpia ................................... C2
17 Bocca della Verit............................A7
18 Capanne Romulee .......................... C6
19 Carcere Mamertino ........................ C4
20 Casa delle Vestali............................ D5
21 Casa di Augusto.............................. C6
22 Casa di Livia..................................... C6
23 Chiesa di San Giorgio in 44 Mercati di Traiano Museo dei 67 Tempio di Vespasiano ....................C4
Velabro.......................................... B6 Fori Imperiali ................................. D1 68 Tempio di Vesta...............................D5
Chiesa di San Lorenzo in 45 Museo Centrale del 69 Terme di Settimio Severo ..............E8
Miranda ............................... (see 60) Risorgimento.................................B3 70 Torre delle Milizie ............................ D1
24 Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua...... C5 46 Museo Nazionale del Palazzo 71 Via Sacra...........................................D4
25 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Venezia........................................... A1
Aracoeli ......................................... B3 47 Museo Palatino ................................D7 Eating (p67)
26 Circo Massimo ................................ C8 48 Orti Farnesiani................................. D6 72 Alimentari Pannella Carmela .........B5
27 Colonna di Foca .............................. C4 49 Palazzo dei Conservatori................B3 Ristorante Roof Garden
28 Colonna di Traiano ......................... C2 50 Palazzo Nuovo .................................B3 Circus ................................... (see 79)
29 Complesso del Vittoriano .............. C2 51 Palazzo Senatorio........................... B4 73 San Teo.............................................B7
30 Cordonata........................................ B3 52 Palazzo Venezia............................... B1 74 Terre e Domus ................................. C1
31 Criptoportico................................... D6 53 Piazza del Campidoglio...................B3
32 Curia ................................................. C4 54 Portico degli Dei Consenti............. C4 Drinking & Nightlife (p69)
33 Domus Augustana.......................... D7 55 Roma dal Cielo .................................B2 75 0,75 ...................................................C7
34 Domus Flavia................................... D6 56 Roman Insula ...................................B3 76 Caff Capitolino ...............................B4
35 Domus Severiana ............................E8 57 Rostrum ........................................... C4 77 Cavour 313 ....................................... E3
36 Foro di Augusto............................... D2 58 Stadio ............................................... D8
37 Foro di Cesare................................. C2 59 Tempio della Concordia................. C4 Shopping (p69)
38 Foro di Nerva................................... D3 60 Tempio di Antonino e Faustina..... D4 78 Mercato di Circo Massimo .............B6
39 Foro di Traiano ................................ C2 61 Tempio di Castore e Polluce ......... C4
40 Foro di Vespasiano ......................... D3 62 Tempio di Ercole Vincitore .............A6 Sleeping (p216)
41 Forum Boarium................................A7 63 Tempio di Giulio Cesare................. D4 79 Forty Seven ......................................A6
42 Il Vittoriano ...................................... B2 64 Tempio di Portunus.........................A6 80 Hotel Forum ..................................... E3
43 Lapis Niger....................................... C4 65 Tempio di Romolo .......................... D4 81 Nerva Boutique Hotel .....................D2
66 Tempio di Saturno.......................... C4 82 Residenza Maritti ............................D3
ANCIENT ROME
299
 300
ancient rome
200 m
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302
CENTRO STORICO NORTH Map on p304
Top Sights (p72)
1 Chiesa del Ges ......................................... G6
2 Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi ............... E4
3 Galleria Doria Pamphilj...............................H5
4 Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo
CENTRO STORICO NORTH
Altemps ..................................................... E3
5 Pantheon...................................................... F4
6 Piazza Navona.............................................E4
Sights (p75)
7 Arco degli Acetari .......................................D6
8 Arco Farnese ...............................................C7
9 Area Sacra ................................................... F6
10 Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra
Minerva .....................................................G5
11 Campo de' Fiori ...........................................D6
12 Cat Sanctuary ............................................. F7 Eating
13 Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista dei
Fiorentini ...................................................A4
14 Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Lucina ............... G1
15 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pace &
Chiostro del Bramante............................D4
16 Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Agone ...............D4
17 Chiesa di Sant'Agostino ............................. E3
18 Chiesa di Sant'Andrea della Valle .............E6
19 Chiesa di Sant'Eligio degli Orefici .............B6
20 Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola .............. H4
21 Chiesa di Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza ............... E5
22 Chiesa Nuova ..............................................C5
23 Colonna di Marco Aurelio ......................... H3
24 Elefantino .....................................................G5
25 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi......................... E4
26 Fontana del Moro........................................ E5
27 Fontana del Nettuno...................................E4
28 Largo di Torre Argentina ........................... F6
29 Museo Barracco di Scultura Antica .........D6
30 Museo Criminologico .................................B5
31 Museo di Roma ...........................................D5
32 Museo Nazionale Romano: Crypta
Balbi...........................................................G7 72 Green T ........................................................ G5
33 Obelisk..........................................................G3 73 I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza.......................... D7
34 Palazzo Chigi .............................................. H3
35 Palazzo della Cancelleria ...........................D6
36 Palazzo di Montecitorio ............................. G3
37 Palazzo Farnese ......................................... D7
38 Palazzo Madama ........................................ E4
39 Palazzo Pamphilj ........................................ D5
40 Palazzo Spada ............................................ D7
41 Pasquino ...................................................... D5
42 Piazza Colonna ...........................................H3
43 Piazza di Pietra ...........................................G4
44 Pi di Marmo ............................................... G5
45 Stadio di Domiziano ................................... D3
46 Tempio di Adriano ......................................G4
47 Torre dell'Orologio ..................................... C4
48 Via dei Coronari .......................................... C3
49 Via del Governo Vecchio ........................... D5
50 Via Giulia ...................................................... B6
(p83)
51 Alfredo e Ada .............................................. B4
52 Armando al Pantheon ................................ F4
53 Baguetteria del Fico ................................... D4
54 Bar del Fico.................................................. C4
55 Campo de' Fiori........................................... D6
56 Casa Bleve................................................... E5
57 Casa Coppelle ..............................................F3
Chiostro del Bramante Caff ........... (see 15)
58 Ciao Checca .................................................F2
59 Cul de Sac.................................................... D5
60 Da Francesco .............................................. C4
61 Da Tonino .................................................... C4
62 Dal Cavalier Gino ........................................ G2
63 Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara....................E7
64 Ditirambo..................................................... D6
65 Enoteca Corsi.............................................. G6
66 Fiocco di Neve............................................. F4
67 Forno di Campo de' Fiori ........................... D6
68 Forno Roscioli ..............................................E7
69 Gelateria del Teatro ................................... C3
70 Giolitti............................................................F3
71 Grappolo D'Oro........................................... D6
74 La Campana ................................................ E2
75 La Ciambella ............................................... F6
 303

76 La Focaccia..................................................D4 113 Arsenale....................................................... D6

77 La Rosetta.................................................... F4 114 Bartolucci .................................................... G4
78 Lilli.................................................................D3 115 Bottega Pio La Torre ...................................F2
79 Lo Zozzone ..................................................D4 116 Casali............................................................ B3
80 Matricianella ................................................ G1 117 Confetteria Moriondo & Gariglio .............. G5

CENTRO STORICO NORTH

81 Osteria del Sostegno .................................. F4 118 daDADA 52 .................................................. D7
82 Osteria dell'Ingegno ...................................G3 119 De Sanctis ................................................... G4
83 Pasticceria De Bellis ...................................E6 120 I Colori di Dentro......................................... B5
84 Pizzeria la Montecarlo................................D5 121 Ibiz Artigianato in Cuoio ..........................E7
85 Renato e Luisa............................................. F6 122 Le Artigiane ..................................................F5
86 Sergio alle Grotte ........................................D7 123 Le Tele di Carlotta ...................................... D3
87 Supplizio ......................................................B5 124 Loco.............................................................. D6
88 Venchi........................................................... F4 125 Luna & L'Altra ............................................. D5
89 Vice ............................................................... F6 126 Materie......................................................... G5
90 Zaz .............................................................. E4 127 Mondello Ottica .......................................... C5
128 Nardecchia .................................................. D4
Drinking & Nightlife (p90) 129 Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di
91 Barnum Cafe ...............................................C5 Santa Maria Novella ................................ E4
92 Caff della Pace ..........................................D4 130 Omero e Cecilia .......................................... C5
93 Caff Sant'Eustachio.................................. F5 131 Rachele ........................................................ D6
94 Ciampini ....................................................... G1 132 SBU .............................................................. D5
95 Circus ...........................................................C4 133 Stilo Fetti ..................................................... G4
96 Etabl.............................................................C4 134 Tartarughe .................................................. G5
97 Fandango Incontro ..................................... F2 135 Tempi Moderni ........................................... C5
98 Gran Caff La Caffettiera.......................... H4 136 Vestiti Usati Cinzia ..................................... C5
99 Il Goccetto....................................................B5 137 ZouZou......................................................... D5
100 Jerry Thomas Project.................................B5
101 La Casa del Caff Tazza d'Oro ................. G4 Sports & Activities
102 L'Angolo Divino ...........................................D7 138 Roman Kitchen ........................................... H5
103 L'Emporio alla Pace ....................................D4 139 Rome Boat Experience .............................. B2
104 No.Au............................................................D3
105 Salotto 42 ................................................... G4 Sleeping (p217)
140 Albergo Abruzzi .......................................... F4
Entertainment (p92) 141 Albergo Cesri ............................................H4
106 Teatro Argentina......................................... F6 142 Albergo del Sole.......................................... E6
107 Teatro dell'Orologio....................................C4 143 Argentina Residenza.................................. F6
144 Casa di Santa Brigida................................. C6
Shopping (p92) 145 Dimora degli Dei .........................................G4
108 A S Roma Store.......................................... H3 146 Hotel Campo de' Fiori ................................ D6
109 Ai Monasteri ................................................ E3 147 Hotel Due Torri ........................................... E2
110 Al Sogno ....................................................... E3 148 Hotel Navona .............................................. E5
111 Alberta Gloves ............................................ G6 Hotel Pensione Barrett ...................(see 143)
112 Aldo Fef ...................................................... F3 149 Hotel Teatro di Pompeo ............................ E6
304

Key on p302
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CENTRO STORICO SOUTH
Sights (p80) Eating (p89) Drinking & Nightlife (p91)
1 Area Archeologica del Teatro di Marcello e 10 Alberto Pica ...............................................................D2 20 Open Baladin ............................................................. D1
del Portico d'Ottavia...............................................F2 11 Antico Forno Urbani ..................................................E1
2 Chiesa di San Bartolomeo....................................... E3 12 Beppe e i suoi Formaggi........................................... D1 Entertainment
3 Chiesa di San Nicola in Carcere...............................F3 13 Boccione .....................................................................E1 21 Isola del Cinema........................................................E4
4 Fontana del Mascherone..........................................A1 14 Cremeria Romana..................................................... E2
5 Fontana delle Tartarughe.........................................E1 15 Nonna Betta...............................................................E2 Shopping (p94)
6 Jewish Ghetto............................................................ E2 16 Piperno .......................................................................D2 22 Borini........................................................................... C1
7 Museo Ebraico di Roma........................................... E2 17 Salumeria Roscioli.................................................... D1
8 Palazzo Cenci............................................................D2 18 Sora Lella ................................................................... E3
9 Teatro di Marcello......................................................F2 19 Vecchia Roma............................................................ F2

CENTRO STORICO SOUTH

307
 308
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TRIDENTE , TREVI & THE QUIRINALE
TRIDENTE, TREVI & QUIRINALE Map on p308
Top Sights (p100) 21 Galleria Valentina Moncada.....................................C2
1 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo ............................B1 22 KeatsShelley House ...............................................D4
2 Galleria Colonna........................................................ E8 23 Mausoleo di Augusto ................................................ A3
3 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica: Palazzo 24 Museo dell'Ara Pacis ................................................ A4
Barberini ................................................................. G5 25 Museo delle Cere ......................................................D8
4 Palazzo del Quirinale .................................................E7 26 Museo Missionario di Propaganda Fide ................. D5
5 Piazza del Popolo.......................................................B1 Obelisk................................................................ (see 5)
6 Piazza di Spagna & the Spanish Steps .................. D4 27 Palazzo Valentini.......................................................D8
7 Trevi Fountain ........................................................... D6 28 Piazza Barberini ........................................................ F5
29 Piazza del Quirinale .................................................. E7
Sights (p103) 30 Pincio Hill Gardens.................................................... C1
8 Basilica dei Santi Apostoli ....................................... D8 31 Porta del Popolo.........................................................A1
9 Casa di Goethe .......................................................... B2 32 Scuderie Papali al Quirinale ..................................... E7
10 Chiesa della Trinit dei Monti.................................. D3 33 Via dei Condotti.........................................................C4
11 Chiesa di San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane .............G6 34 Via Vittorio Veneto.................................................... F4
12 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli ..........................B1 35 Villa Medici .................................................................D2
13 Chiesa di Santa Maria in Montesanto .....................B1
14 Chiesa di Sant'Andrea al Quirinale ......................... F6 Eating (p110)
15 Citt dell'Acqua......................................................... D6 36 Al Gran Sasso ............................................................ A2
16 Convento dei Cappuccini......................................... F4 37 Al Moro .......................................................................D6
17 Fontana del Tritone ...................................................F5 38 Alice Pizza ..................................................................G4
18 Fontana delle Api ...................................................... F4 39 All'Oro ......................................................................... A2
19 Gagosian Gallery ....................................................... E5 40 Antica Enoteca ..........................................................C3
20 Galleria d'Arte Moderna ........................................... E5 41 Antico Forno ..............................................................D6
310
42 Babette .......................................................................B2
43 Baccano......................................................................D6
44 Buccone......................................................................B2
45 Casa Conti..................................................................C3
46 Colline Emiliane ......................................................... F5
47 Da Michele..................................................................D7
48 Da Pietro.....................................................................B2
49 Dal Bolognese............................................................ A1
50 Dei Gracchi.................................................................A2
51 Edy ..............................................................................B2
52 Enoteca Regionale Palatium....................................C5
53 Fatamorgana .............................................................B2
54 Fiaschetteria Beltramme .........................................C4
55 Forno Cerulli ..............................................................G4
56 Gina .............................................................................D3
57 Ginger .........................................................................C4
58 Il Chianti......................................................................D6
59 Il Margutta RistorArte...............................................B2
60 Il Palazzetto ...............................................................D3
61 Imgo ..........................................................................D4
62 Le Tamerici ................................................................D6
63 Nan Vini e Cucina .................................................... E6
64 Nino.............................................................................D4
65 Osteria Margutta.......................................................C3
 66 Otello alla Concordia ................................................ C3 Shopping
67 Pastificio .................................................................... C3
68 Pizza R...................................................................... B2
69 Pompi ......................................................................... C3
70 San Crispino .............................................................. E6
71 Venchi......................................................................... C3
Drinking & Nightlife (p116)
72 Caff Greco................................................................ C4
73 Canova ........................................................................B1
74 Canova Tadolini ........................................................ C3
75 Ciampini 2 .................................................................. D3
La Scena.......................................................... (see 114)
76 Micca Club ..................................................................F5
77 Moma .........................................................................G4
78 Rosati...........................................................................A1
Stravinskij Bar Hotel de Russie ................ (see 113)
Entertainment (p117) 98
79 Gregory's ................................................................... E4
80 Teatro Quirino ........................................................... D7 99
81 Teatro Sistina .............................................................F5 100
(p117) 103 Tod's ...........................................................................B4
82 Anglo-American Bookshop .....................................D5 104 Underground ............................................................. E4
83 Barril Boutique ........................................................C2 105 Vertecchi Art..............................................................C3
Bottega di Marmoraro.....................................(see 21)
84 Bulgari ........................................................................C4 Sports & Activities (p117)
85 C.U.C.I.N.A. ................................................................ C3 Hotel De Russie Wellness Zone.................... (see 113)
86 DaDADA .....................................................................B2 106 Kami Spa .................................................................... F5
87 Danielle.......................................................................C5
88 Discount dell'Alta Moda ...........................................B2 Sleeping (p218)
89 Fabriano .....................................................................B2 107 Babuino 181................................................................B2
90 Fausto Santini............................................................C4 108 Casa Fabbrini.............................................................C3
91 Fendi ...........................................................................B4 109 Crossing Condotti .....................................................C4
92 Focacci .......................................................................B4 110 Daphne Inn ................................................................. F4
93 Fratelli Fabbi .............................................................. C3 111 Gregoriana .................................................................D4
94 Furla ............................................................................D3 112 Hotel Barocco ............................................................ F5
95 Galleria Alberto Sordi ...............................................C6 113 Hotel de Russie.......................................................... B1
96 Il Mare ......................................................................... A2 114 Hotel Locarno ............................................................A2
97 La Rinascente ............................................................C6 115 Hotel Modigliani......................................................... E4
Libreria Giunti al Punto ............................................D8 116 Hotel Mozart ..............................................................B3
L'Olfattorio ....................................................... (see 36) 117 Hotel Panda ...............................................................C4
Lucia Odescalchi .......................................................D8 118 Hotel Suisse ............................................................... E4
Mercato delle Stampe .............................................. A5 119 La Piccola Maison ..................................................... F4
101 Pelletteria Nives ........................................................B4 120 Margutta 54 ...............................................................C3
102 Sermoneta .................................................................D4 121 Margutta Glamour Studios ......................................C2
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Top Sights (p122) 11 Vatican Grottoes ..............C5 24 Osteria dell'Angelo .......... D2 Entertainment (p138) Sports & Activities (p271)
1 St Peter's Basilica............ C5 25 Pizzarium.......................... A4 35 Alexanderplatz ................. C3 44 Roma Cristiana.................D5
2 Vatican Museums ............C4 Eating (p135) 26 Pizzeria Amalfi ................. D4 36 Auditorium
12 Cacio e Pepe ......................F1 27 Ristorante Conciliazione ................. E5 Sleeping (p219)
Sights (p134) 13 Dal Toscano ......................D3 L'Arcangelo ....................F4 37 Fonclea.............................. E4 45 Colors Hotel ...................... E4
3 Castel Sant'Angelo .......... F5 14 Del Frate ............................D3 28 Romeo............................... D3 38 Teatro Ghione ..................D6 46 Fabio Massimo Design
4 Museo Storico Artistico .. C5 15 Dolce Maniera...................D2 29 Settembrini ....................... F1 Hotel ............................... E3
5 Necropoli Via 16 Fa-Bo.................................D3 30 Velavevodetto Ai Shopping (p139) 47 Hotel Bramante................ E5
Triumphalis....................B4 17 Fatamorgana ....................C2 Quiriti...............................E3 39 Antica Manufattura 48 Hotel San Pietrino ............D2
6 Ponte Sant'Angelo........... F5 18 Gelarmony......................... F3 Cappelli .......................... D3 49 Le Stanze di Orazio.......... F3
7 St Peter's Basilica 19 Hostaria Dino e Tony .......C3 Drinking & Nightlife (p138) 40 Castroni............................. E4
Dome .............................. C5 20 Il Sorpasso ........................E4 31 Art Studio Caf .................F3 41 Enoteca Costantini ..........G4
8 St Peter's Square............. D5 21 La Veranda........................ E5 32 Makasar ............................ D4 42 Piazza dell' Unit.............. E4
9 Tomb of St Peter.............. C5 22 Mondo Arancina ............... F3 33 Passaguai ..........................E4 43 Rechicle............................. E3
10 Vatican Gardens ..............B4 23 Old Bridge .........................D4 34 Sciascia Caff ...................E3

VATICAN CIT Y, BORGO & PR ATI

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Top Sights (p173) 8 Chiesa di San Gregorio 18 Santuario della Scala

1 Basilica di San Magno.......................... E2 Santa & Sancta
Clemente...................... F1 9 Chiesa di Santo Sanctorum..................H2
2 Basilica di San Stefano Rotondo.........F2 19 Triclinium Leoninum ....H2
Giovanni in 10 Cimitero Acattolico 20 Villa Celimontana.......... E3
Laterano......................H2 per gli Stranieri........... B5
3 Terme di Caracalla ....... E4 11 MACRO Testaccio ........ A5 Eating (p177)
12 Monte Testaccio ........... A5 21 Aroma.............................. F1
Sights (p174) 13 Obelisk............................H2 22 Caf Caf.........................E1
4 Basilica di Santa 14 Palazzo Laterano ..........H2 23 Caff Propaganda.......... E1
Sabina.......................... B2 15 Parco Savello................. C2 24 Checchino dal 1887 ...... A5
5 Basilica di SS Quattro 16 Piramide di Caio 25 Da Felice......................... B4
Coronati ....................... F1 Cestio .......................... C5 26 Flavio al
6 Battistero....................... G2 17 Priorato dei Cavalieri Velavevodetto ............ A5
7 Case Romane ................ E2 di Malta........................ B3 27 Il Bocconcino.................. E1
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28 Il Gelato ..........................D3 41 My Bar ............................. F1 Sports & Activities (p271)

29 Li Rioni............................. F1 42 Rec 23.............................B3 49 Through Eternity
30 Mordi e Vai..................... A4 Cultural
31 Pizzeria Da Remo.......... A3 Entertainment (p180) Association .................H4
32 Taverna dei Quaranta.... E1 43 ConteStaccio................. B5 50 Top Bike Rental &
33 Trapizzino ...................... A4 44 Terme di Caracalla........ E4 Tours.............................F1
34 Trattoria da Bucatino ... B4
Shopping (p180) Sleeping (p222)
Drinking & Nightlife (p179) 45 Calzature Boccanera....B4 51 Althea Inn ....................... B5
35 Big Bang......................... A5 Nuovo Mercato 52 Hotel Lancelot ................ F1
36 Coming Out..................... E1 di Testaccio....... (see 30) 53 Hotel Romance.............. F2
37 Il Pentagrappolo............. F1 46 Soul Food .......................G2 54 Hotel Sant'Anselmo......B3
38 L'Alibi .............................. A5 47 Via Sannio ......................H2
39 Linari............................... A4 48 Volpetti...........................B4
40 L'Oasi della Birra........... B4
316

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31 8
TRASTEVERE & GIANICOLO Map on p316
Top Sights (p160)
1 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in
Trastevere.................................................H5
2 Basilica di Santa Maria in
Trastevere.................................................E4
TR ASTEVERE & GIANICOLO
3 Villa Farnesina.............................................D2
Sights (p161) 42 Big Star ........................................................ D5
4 Anita Garibaldi Equestrian
Monument ................................................B2 44 Freni e Frizioni..............................................F3
5 Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi a
Ripa........................................................... G6 46 La Mescita ....................................................F3
6 Fontana dell'Acqua Paola ..........................C4
7 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica di
Palazzo Corsini.........................................D2
8 Garibaldi Monument...................................B2 Entertainment
9 Gianicolo ......................................................C3
10 Museo di Roma in Trastevere ...................E3
11 Orto Botanico..............................................D2
12 Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere.............E4
13 Porta Settimiana.........................................E2
14 Tempietto di Bramante & Chiesa
di San Pietro in Montorio ........................D4 Shopping
Eating (p163)
15 Bir & Fud ......................................................E2
16 Ciuri Ciuri ..................................................... E5
17 Da Augusto .................................................. F3
18 Da Corrado ..................................................E3
19 Da Enzo ........................................................H5
20 Da Olindo......................................................D3
21 Da Teo ......................................................... H4
22 Dar Poeta .....................................................E3 Sleeping
23 Fatamorgana Trastevere ....................... E5
24 Fior di Luna .................................................. F4
25 Forno la Renella .......................................... F3
26 Glass Hostaria.............................................E3
27 Innocenti ..................................................... G4
28 La Gensola .................................................. H4
29 Le Mani in Pasta..........................................H5
30 Old Bridge ....................................................E3
31 Panattoni..................................................... G4
32 Paris..............................................................F4
33 Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina ..........E3
34 Piazza San Cosimato ................................. E5
35 Pizzeria Ivo................................................... F4
36 Sisini ............................................................. F5
37 Sora Mirella Caff.......................................H4
38 Valzani ..........................................................F3
Drinking & Nightlife (p168)
39 Bar le Cinque............................................... E3
40 Bar San Calisto ........................................... F4
41 Bar Stuzzichini............................................ B2
43 Da Biagio...................................................... E3
45 Il Barretto .................................................... D5
47 Ma Che Siete Venuti a F .......................... E2
48 Ombre Rosse .............................................. E3
(p169)
49 Alcazar Cinema ...........................................F5
50 Big Mama..................................................... F6
51 Lettere Caff Gallery.................................. F6
52 Nuovo Sacher ..............................................F7
53 Teatro Vascello........................................... B7
(p170)
54 Almost Corner Bookshop...........................F3
55 Antica Caciara Trasteverina ......................F5
56 La Cravatta su Misura................................H5
57 Officina della Carta..................................... E2
58 Open Door Bookshop ................................H4
59 Porta Portese Market ................................ G7
60 Roma-Store.................................................G4
61 Scala Quattorodici Clothing...................... E3
(p221)
Arco del Lauro................................... (see 68)
62 Buonanotte Garibaldi................................. D2
63 Donna Camilla Savelli ................................D3
64 Hotel Santa Maria....................................... E3
65 La Casa di Kaia............................................H5
66 La Foresteria Orsa Maggiore .....................D1
Maria-Rosa Guesthouse.................. (see 65)
67 Relais Le Clarisse ........................................F5
68 Residenza Arco de' Tolomei .....................H4
69 Residenza Santa Maria.............................. F4
70 Villa Della Fonte ...........................................F3
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Sights (p147) Drinking & Nightlife (p153)
1 Basilica di San Lorenzo Fuori le 15 Esc Atelier ....................................................C1
Mura .......................................................... C1 16 Gente di San Lorenzo ................................ B2
2 Chiesa di Santa Croce in 17 Il Tiaso.......................................................... D4
Gerusalemme...........................................B4 18 Locanda Atlantide ...................................... B3
3 Cimitero di Campo Verano........................ D1 19 Vicious Club ................................................ B3
4 Museo Storico della Liberazione ..............A4
5 National Museum of Musical Entertainment (p153)
Instruments ..............................................B4 20 Istituzione Universitaria dei
6 Pastificio Cerere ......................................... C1 Concerti .....................................................B1
7 Porta Maggiore ...........................................B3 21 Teatro Ambra Jovinelli............................... A2

Eating (p150) Shopping (p155)

8 Formula Uno................................................B2 22 La Grande Officina ..................................... B2
9 Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni 23 Nuovo Mercato Esquilino .......................... A2
Fassi...........................................................A3
10 Pastificio San Lorenzo ............................... B1 Sports & Activities (p271)
11 Pommidoro..................................................B2 24 Arcult............................................................ D4
12 Primo ............................................................D4
13 Said............................................................... B1
14 Tram Tram...................................................C2
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 322
MONTI & ESQUILINO
MONTI & ESQUILINO Map on p320
Top Sights (p142) 12 Domus Aurea.......................C8 Gelataria 47 Finnegans..........................B7 65 Mercato Monti
1 Basilica di San Pietro Fontana delle dell'Angeletto..... (see 74) 48 Ice Club.............................. A7 Urban Market...............B6
in Vincoli......................... B7 Naiadi........................(see 16) 28 Indian Fast Food.............G6 49 La Barrique .......................B5 66 Podere Vecciano ............A6
2 Basilica di Santa Maria 13 Museo Nazionale d'Arte 29 La Carbonara.................. B6 50 La Bottega del Caff ........B6 67 Spot..................................A5
Maggiore ........................ E5 Orientale............................ E7 30 La Gallina Bianca............D4 68 Tina Sondergaard...........B6
3 Museo Nazionale 14 Museo Nazionale 31 L'Asino d'Oro .................. B5 Entertainment (p153)
Romano: Palazzo Romano: Terme di 32 Open Colonna................. A4 51 Blackmarket .....................C5 Sports & Activities
Massimo alle Diocleziano........................ E2 33 Panella l'Arte del 52 Charity Caf......................B5 69 Bici & Baci .......................D3
Terme ............................. E3 15 Palazzo delle Pane.............................. E7 53 Orbis ..................................D5 70 Vino Roma.......................D7
Esposizioni ........................B4 34 Pasticceria Regoli .......... E7 54 Teatro dell'Opera di
Sights (p144) 16 Piazza della Repubblica ..... D3 35 Roscioli .............................F7 Roma ..............................D4 Sleeping (p220)
4 Aula Ottagona ..................D2 17 Piazza Vittorio 36 Temakinho ...................... A6 71 Alessandro Palace
5 Basilica di Santa Maria Emanuele II ....................... G7 37 Trattoria Monti ............... E6 Shopping (p154) Hostel............................G2
degli Angeli ....................D2 18 Trofei di Mario ..................... G7 38 Trimani .............................E1 55 101 ......................................C6 72 Beehive ............................G2
6 Chiesa di San Martino 19 Villa Aldobrandini ................ A5 39 Urbana 47........................C6 56 Abito ..................................B6 73 Blue Hostel...................... E6
ai Monti........................... D7 57 Arion Esposizioni..............B4 74 Duca d'Alba .....................B6
7 Chiesa di San Paolo Eating (p148) Drinking & Nightlife (p152) 58 Creje...................................B5 75 Hotel Artorius .................B5
entro le Mura .................C3 20 Agata e Romeo .................... E6 40 Ai Tre Scalini................... B6 59 Fabio Piccioni ...................B6 76 Papa Germano.................E1
8 Chiesa di Santa Lucia 21 Ciuri Ciuri .............................B6 41 Al Vino al Vino................. A6 60 Feltrinelli 77 Radisson Blu Es..............G6
in Selci ............................ D7 22 Da Valentino......................... A5 Bar Zest at the International ..................C2 78 Residenza Cellini ............C3
9 Chiesa di Santa 23 Dall'Ant............................... A7 Radisson Blu Es..(see 77) 61 Giacomo Santini...............D5 79 Villa Spalletti Trivelli.......A4
Prassede ........................ E6 24 Doozo.................................... B5 42 Bohemien........................ B6 62 IBS.it ..................................C3 80 Welrome Hotel................ E2
10 Chiesa di Santa 25 Fatamorgana Monti.........C6 43 Castroni........................... B4 63 La Bottega del
Pudenziana....................C5 26 Forno da Milvio ....................B6 44 Druid's Den ..................... E6 Cioccolato ......................B7
11 Chiesa di 27 Gainn..................................... F2 45 Fafiuch........................... A7 64 MAS ................................... F6
Sant'Eusebio ................. F6 46 Fiddler's Elbow ...............D6
 32 3

VILLA BORGHESE & NORTHERN ROME Map on p324

Top Sights (p183) Eating (p190)
1 Museo e Galleria Borghese........................ F6 24 Al Settimo Gelo........................................... B5
2 Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa 25 Bar Pompi.....................................................B1
Giulia..........................................................D5 26 Caff delle Arti ............................................ D5
27 Cinecaff ..................................................... E6

VILL A BORGHESE & NORTHERN ROME

Sights (p186) 28 Il Gianfornaio................................................B1
3 Auditorium Parco della Musica.................C3 29 Metamorfosi................................................ E4
4 Bioparco....................................................... E5 30 Molto ............................................................ E3
5 Casina delle Civette................................... H6 31 Neve di Latte ............................................... B3
6 Casino dei Principi ..................................... H6 32 Pallotta..........................................................B1
7 Casino Nobile ............................................. H6 33 Pasticceria Gru ......................................... G5
8 Catacombe di Priscilla .............................. H3 34 Serenella...................................................... F6
9 Explora Museo dei Bambini di
Roma .........................................................C5 Drinking & Nightlife (p191)
Fontana delle Rane........................... (see 19) 35 Chioschetto di Ponte Milvio .......................B1
10 Foro Italico ...................................................A2 36 Piper Club.................................................... G5
11 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna e
Contemporanea.......................................D5 Entertainment (p191)
12 Giardino del Lago ........................................D6 Auditorium Parco della Musica .........(see 3)
Musei di Villa Torlonia ........................ (see 7) 37 Casa del Cinema......................................... E6
Museo Archeologico........................... (see 3) 38 Cinema dei Piccoli...................................... E6
13 Museo Carlo Bilotti .....................................D6 39 Foro Italico................................................... A2
14 Museo d'Arte Contemporanea di 40 Silvano Toti Globe Theatre........................ E5
Roma (MACRO) ...................................... G6 41 Stadio Flaminio........................................... C3
15 Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI 42 Stadio Olimpico .......................................... A2
Secolo (MAXXI)........................................B3 43 Teatro Olimpico.......................................... B3
16 Piazza di Siena ............................................E6
17 Ponte Milvio .................................................B2 Shopping (p192)
18 Porta Pia.......................................................G7 44 Anticaglie a Ponte Milvio ........................... B2
19 Quartiere Copped .....................................G5 45 Bagheera ..................................................... D3
20 Villa Ada .......................................................G3 46 Bulzoni ......................................................... E3
21 Villa Borghese .............................................E6 47 Libreria l'Argonauta ...................................G6
22 Villa Poniatowski.........................................C5
23 Villa Torlonia............................................... H6 Sleeping (p222)
Villa Torlonia Bunker .......................... (see 7) 48 Palm Gallery Hotel...................................... H5
324

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Vi

ni
Villa dei Quintili
(3km)
A B C D E F G

Top Sights (p195)
1 Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le
Mura ...............................................B5
2 Basilica di San Sebastiano ............. F5
3 Via Appia Antica ............................... E3
Sights (p197)
4 Albergo Rosso ................................. C3
5 Alexis .................................................B3
6 Capitoline Museums at
Centrale Montemartini .................B3
7 Catacombe di San Callisto ............. F5
8 Catacombe di San Sebastiano ...... G5
9 Catacombe di Santa Domitilla ....... E5 Eating
10 Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis? ..... E3
11 Circo di Massenzio .......................... G5
12 ex Caserma dell'Aeronautica .........B2
13 Mausoleo delle Fosse
Ardeatine ....................................... F5
14 Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella ............G6
15 Mausoleo di Romolo........................ G5
16 Museo delle Mura ............................ E2
17 Quartiere Garbatella .......................C4
18 Scuola Cesare Battisti ....................C4
19 Villa di Massenzio ............................ G5
(p201) 29 Neo Club........................................... B3
20 Andreotti .......................................... B2 Porto Fluviale ..........................(see 23)
21 Eataly ................................................ C2 30 Rashomon ........................................ B3
22 Il Giardino di Giulia e Fratelli .......... G6
Pizza Ostiense ....................... (see 20) Entertainment (p204)
23 Porto Fluviale ................................... B2 31 Caff Letterario ............................... B2
24 Qui Non se More Mai....................... G6 32 La Casa del Jazz .............................. D2
25 Trattoria Priscilla ............................. E3 33 Teatro India...................................... A3
34 XS Live .............................................. B4
Drinking & Nightlife (p203)
26 Doppiozeroo .................................... B3 Sleeping (p222)
27 Goa .................................................... B4 35 Hotel Abitart .................................... B2
28 La Saponeria .................................... B4

southern rome
32 7
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