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Copyright, Legal Notice And Disclaimer

This publication is protected under the US Copyright Act of 1976 and


all other applicable international, federal, state and local laws, and all
rights are reserved, including resale rights: you are not allowed to
give or sell this Guide to anyone else.

Please note that much of this publication is based on personal


experience and anecdotal evidence. Although the author and
publisher have made every reasonable attempt to achieve complete
accuracy of the content in this Guide, they assume no responsibility
for errors or omissions. Also, you should use this information as you
see fit, and at your own risk. Your particular situation may not be
exactly suited to the examples illustrated here; in fact, it's likely that
they won't be the same, and you should adjust your use of the
information and recommendations accordingly.

Any trademarks, service marks, product names or named features


are assumed to be the property of their respective owners, and are
used only for reference. There is no implied endorsement if we use
one of these terms.

Finally, use your head. Nothing in this Guide is intended to replace


common sense, legal, medical or other professional advice, and is
meant to inform and entertain the reader. So have fun and learn to
dress sharp!

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Ultimate Guide to Mens Watches


Written by: Antonio Centeno
2nd Edition, 2017
Copyright 2010-2017, Real Men Real Style

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Table of Contents
Copyright, Legal Notice And Disclaimer

Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1: Seven Reasons To Wear A Watch


1. Watches Are Convenient
2. Watches Are Functional
3. Watches Provide Simplicity
4. Watches Signal Style
5. Watches Embody Craftsmanship
6. Watches Make Great Heirlooms
7. You Become More Attuned to How You Spend Time
Everyone can rock a watch.
Chapter 1 Key Takeaways

Chapter 2: Types Of Watches: Formality And Function


Dress Watches
Casual Watches
Functional Watches
Chapter 2 Key Takeaways

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Chapter 3: Watch Movements


1. Quartz Movement
2. Mechanical Movement
3. Automatic Movement
Chapter 3 Key Takeaways

Chapter 4: Watch Bands


Leather
Metal
Fabric
Chapter 4 Key Takeaways

Chapter 5: Dress Watches


Dress Watch Features
Start Off with a Dress Watch.
Chapter 5 Key Takeaways

Chapter 6: Field Watches


What Makes a Field Watch?
The Field Watch and the Modern Man
The Bottom Line
Chapter 6 Key Takeaways

Chapter 7: Aviator Watches


Origins of The Aviator Watch
The Space Race & Aviator Watches
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The Digital Age & Aviator Watches


The Toughest Aviator Watch You Can Own
How to Wear an Aviator Watch?
Chapter 7 Key Takeaways

Chapter 8: Dive Watches


Dive Watch History
What Makes a Good Dive Watch?
Adding One to Your Collection
Chapter 8 Key Takeaways

Chapter 9: Racing Watches


Racing Watch Style
Racing Watch Essentials
Adding a Racing Watch to Your Collection
Chapter 9 Key Takeaways

Chapter 10: Matching A Watch To Your Outfit


Match The Formality of Your Watch with The Formality of Your
Outfit
Watch Categories
Levels of Formality
Chapter 10 Key Takeaways

Chapter 11: How To Buy The Right Watch


1. Educate Yourself On Classic Watch Styles
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2. Understand The True Value of a Watch


3. Watches & Buyer Protection
4. The Economics of Watch Pricing
5. Find Enjoyment in Wearing Your Watch
Chapter 11 Key Takeaways

Chapter 12: Proportions: The Right Size Watch For Your Wrist
Watch Case Diameter
Watch Case Thickness
Watch Band Width

Chapter 12 Key Takeaways


Chapter 13: In What Order to Build Your Watch Collection
1. Personal Style
2. Budget
3. Occupation
Chapter 13 Key Takeaways
Conclusion

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Check out our RECOMMENDED courses:

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This E-book is dedicated to The


Fifth Watches.
Why?
Well, I need to THANK them for
re-introducing me to the joy of
wearing a wrist watch.
For about 10 years, I stopped
wearing a watch. It seemed
outdated and redundant with a
cell phone always in my pocket.
But after speaking with the team
at the 5th Watches I decided to
give it a try.
Im glad I did.
Now I own 5 watches from them
and wear them most days here
into the office. Theyre
comfortable, stylish, affordable
and I receive compliments every
time I wear them.
The Fifth Watches is a great
company for any man looking to
get back into watches or build a
collection of pieces he can wear
with various outfits.
I stand behind them and hope
you give them a shot!
- Antonio

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How To Claim Your Watch From The


Fifth?
The Fifth Watches sought to create an exclusive collection to do
that you cant just buy them anytime youd like. Their watches go
on sale only on the 5th of the month, and then for only five days.
They usually sell out quickly, so be sure to sign up as a "VIP
Member" to gain first access during their releases.
Click HERE to check out The Fifth Watches.

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Introduction

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Introduction
I dont need a watch; I can
check my phone for the time

This is a common response


when I ask people why they
dont wear a timepiece.

I can relate.

I used to be that guy too.

Now when I hear that answer,


my usual response is Yeah
but a watch wont consume
your life like a phone will, itll
actually help you live it.

Its usually not enough to


change peoples mind, so I
decided to write this e-book.

The truth is, watches serve a much greater purpose then just
checking the time. Ask a racecar driver, or a pilot (More on that in
later chapters).

This book is not only going to explain WHY every man should wear a
watch, but also how to find and purchase the perfect watch for you.

This means relative to your lifestyle, budget, personal style, and


occupation.

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Chapter 1: Seven Reasons to Wear a Watch

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Chapter 1: Seven Reasons To


Wear A Watch
1. Watches Are
Convenient
Phones dont keep you
punctual. Watches do.

A wrist watch is the most


convenient way to tell the
time.

I dont need a watch because


I have a phone, is a common
response from a generation
who are now questioning
the adverse effects of
constant cellphone use.

Fishing for a cell phone on


regular occasions just to
check the time looks
desperate.

A quick glance towards your wrist is a much classier way to keep


tabs on time during a date or a meeting. Not to mention how rude it
would seem to your companions if you pulled out your phone during
a conversation.

On other occasions where it's advisable to leave the phone


concealed - like the beach, a funeral, a wedding, a watch is a much
subtler and convenient way to check time.

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2. Watches Are
Functional
Any item inspired by the
military has a functional use.
Wrist watches included.

Wrist watches were first used


in the 19th century by the
military to synchronize
maneuvers during war.

Since then, specialized


watches have been used in the
depths of the ocean by divers
and high up in the sky by aviators.

One of the big advantages of a watch - especially over a smartphone


- is how long it can operate in the field. Many watches are made to
either be self-powered through motion or use a small amount of
energy from a battery.

Think years of maintenance free time telling.... compare that to a


smart phone's 8 hours!

A complicated watch is designed with features beyond the basic


function of displaying the time and date.

Such a functionality is called a complication. Two of the popular


complications are the chronograph, which allows the watch to
function as a stopwatch and the moonphase complication, which
displays the lunar phase.

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3. Watches Provide Simplicity


The best watches dont use the latest technology. They are powered
by ingenious mechanical clockwork technology that predates
electricity.

So when your cellphone runs out of battery - you can trust the
technology that keeps running on your wrist.

When you wear a watch - its less likely you will fall back on your
phone as a distraction. Often, checking the phone for time results in
a rabbit-trail of activities including checking every messenger app,
email and Facebook.

When you need to keep track of something as important as time - a


unique device to measure and manage it is justified.

4. Watches Signal Style


Compliments.

The range of acceptable jewelry for a man is limited.

Many men are only going to be seen with three main accessories
decorating their hands - a nice watch, a stylish pair of cuff links, and
a simple wedding band if they're married.

In addition to helping wearers stick to their schedules, wristwatches


make it easier for them to display their
sense of style.

They are a form of self-expression -


reflecting hint of danger, adventure and
sports depending on the make of the Share this eBook!
watch.

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Watches can communicate a lot about the wearers personality.

For those that prefer a bit of high-status bling on their wrist, a Rolex
can be an understated, timeless and incredibly masculine accessory.

As the saying goes - boys look at their smartphones to check time -


men look at a watch.

Call it what you will, a quality luxury watch is a man's equivalent to


the engagement ring.

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5. Watches
Embody
Craftsmanship
A wrist watch is more than
a time-keeper.

It is a symbol of tradition
and history encased in a
showpiece with extreme
craftsmanship.

Not many men realize that


they are wearing pieces of
art on their wrist. Some
watch houses have four
craftsmen working on one
watch for several months -
designing complex pieces of technology by hand.

It's detailed art at the higher end of human ingenuity and


creativity.

An analog watch has a simple and consistent mechanism. The way of


expressing it is where the bulk of the creativity comes in.

Watch design is inherently artistic. There is a lot of generic and non-


inspiring watch styles out there, but the best stuff is beautiful and
how often do you call a tool beautiful?

Art on a watch can come in multiple forms. The dial can literally be a
painting, or the design of the instrument itself is pure art. For many
people - the movement arouses as much fascination as the dial and
case.

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6. Watches Make Great Heirlooms


Not only is a timepiece the quintessential gift - it is the
quintessential heirloom.

No matter what your philosophy is on the end of life, we can all


agree that people can live on through the memories of those that
knew them.

Owning timepieces from a different era is a remembrance of people


who lived before you.

Having their watches makes you think of them, in a real way. They
wore these same watches which show signs of use, care and and
love.

A watch collection is also a legacy. It doesn't necessarily have to be


worth a mini treasure - but leaving your watch(es) to someone you
care about is in essence passing on values that were important to
you, to someone else.

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7. You Become More Attuned to How You


Spend Time
Since the days of the sundial (and probably before) - men have been
obsessed with devices that measure time. A reminder that our time
is limited.

Wearing a watch has a positive


effect on my attitude towards time.
I am more attentive to how I spend
my 24 hours.
Wearing a watch is a
Beyond the technical and
great way to add mechanical intricacies of a watch -
interest to an outfit, men are fascinated by these
devices that claim to mark and
especially if youre a control time.
guy.
There is a passionate community of
watch lovers who dive into the
details of watch-making and
collecting.

The only other obsession matched with the passion for this
inanimate object is the passion men share for cars. A watch
collection is far easier to maintain and less expensive as a hobby.

Everyone can rock a watch.


Find a wrist watch that really stands out from the rest.

It could be the beginning of a long friendship.

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Chapter 1
Key Takeaways

A wrist watch is the most convenient way to tell the


time.

Chronographs allow the watch to function as a


stopwatch.

Moonphases display the lunar phase.

Watches are heirlooms.

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Chapter 2: Types of Watches


Formality and Function

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Chapter 2: Types Of Watches: Formality


And Function

This E-book will go into


greater depth about each
type of watch, but this
chapter serves as a general
overview of the different
functions and formalities.
There are watches designed
for several types of
occasions. For simplicity
sake we will divide them into
three different categories:
1. Dress Watches
2. Functional
Watches
3. Casual Watches

Dress Watches
Dress watches are arguably the first watch every man should own.
Usually found with a leather strap, a dress watch is the go to choice
to wear with a suit. They can be dressed down as well with different
business casual outfits.
Color plays a large role in dress watches as well.

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Here is a quick overview of dress watches:


Band of a Dress Watch:
Leather
Color of Dress Watch Straps:
Black
Dark Brown
Tan
Cream
Color of Dress Watch Casing
Silver
Rose Gold
Gold
Color of a Dress Watch Face
White
Black
Metallic

Numbers and Dial of a Dress Watch


Roman numerals
Minimalistic dashes
Hour Indexes
May or may not have a second hand
Always has hour and minute hands

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Casual Watches
You can tell a watch is casual from the material and color.
Made from different fabrics like nylon or canvas, these work great
with vacation outfits or casual clothing. Wear them to the beach, or
to a family BBQ where dress attire would be too much.
Band of a Casual Watch:
Nylon
Metal
Tweed
Color of Casual Watch Straps:
Various colors and patterns
Checks
Stripes
Red
White
Blue
Purple
Black
Color of Casual Watch Casing
Silver
Black
Gold
Brown Share this eBook!
Blue
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Color of a Casual Watch Face


White
Black
Blue
Tan
Numbers and Dial of a Casual Watch
Digits
Digit/Dashes Combination
Chrono Face

Functional Watches
These are the racing watches, dive watches, aviation watches, and
field watches.
Each watch serves a purpose and should be worn for specific tasks.
The formalities of these watches correlates directly with the
purpose they serve.
The fabric is usually rubber, canvas, or leather depending on the job.
More on each watch in later chapters.
Band of a Functional Watch
Rubber
Canvas
Leather
Metal
Depends on the function
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Color of Functional Watch Straps


Brown
Black
Tan
Silver
Color of Functional Watch Casing
Silver
Black
Gold
Color of Functional Watch Face
Black
Blue
Brown
White
Tan
Combination of colors
Numbers and Dial of a Casual Watch
Digital
Numerical digits
Dive Bezels
Chronograph
Depends on the function

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Chapter 2
Key Takeaways

Dress watches are arguably the first watch every man


should own.

Casual watches are made from different fabrics like


nylon or canvas.

Functional watches are racing watches, dive watches,


aviation watches, and field watches.

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Chapter 3: Watch Movements

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Chapter 3: Watch Movements


What is the movement of a
watch?

And why is it so important?

The movement or calib


er is what makes a watch
tick.

Described as the heart of a


watch, movement refers
to the mechanism that drives
the hands on a watch face and
powers its complications
such as calendar,
chronograph or a dual time
zone.

It is one of the most important parts of the watch. A component you


shouldnt overlook.

While most watch purchases are based solely on the exterior, a man
who has an eye for detail will appreciate the mechanism on the
inside of a watch.

A watchmaker spends a majority of his time meticulously designing


the interior of a watch. Those aware of watchmaking intricacies
insist that carefully crafted mechanisms define a
masterpiece and separate it from a mediocre watch.

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There are three types of movement:

1. Quartz - the movement causes the second hand to move in


individual ticks. Powered by a battery.
2. Mechanical - the movement will cause the second hand to
move in a smooth sweeping motion. The watch requires
manual winding to operate.
3. Automatic - kinetic energy from the wearer's wrist is
transferred automatically to drive the mechanism inside the
watch.

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1. Quartz Movement
In 1969, Seiko, the Japanese watchmakers introduced the quartz
movement.

The launch of this new technology challenged the traditional


timepiece houses who relied on mechanical movement to power
their watches.

In response, most of the established watch companies released their


own versions of quartz timepieces, kick-starting an era of battery-
operated wristwatches.

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How Quartz Movement Works

1. A quartz timepiece is powered by a battery that sends an


electrical signal through a piece of crystal quartz.
2. The quartz vibrates 32768 times per second, creating a signal
with a precise frequency.
3. The vibrations are measured by the circuit and converted into
a single pulse every second.
4. The consistent movement of the watch hands is a result of this
pulse.

Benefits of Quartz Movement

Accurate Time: A quartz mechanism barely veers from the


exact time, ensuring superior accuracy.
Ease of Use: Quartz watches are battery-powered and do not
require human intervention to keep ticking.
Low Maintenance: The low number of moving parts and the
presence of a battery ensure that quartz watches are lower
maintenance.
Less Expensive: Mechanical and automatic watches require
more watchmaking hours and skill. Quartz watches are hence
cheaper.
Durability: A quartz timepiece has fewer moving parts that
may require repairing, making it more durable than a
mechanical watch.

Luxury watch collectors prefer watches with


mechanical movement, while quartz watches are preferred for
regular use given their superior accuracy and reliability.

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2. Mechanical Movement
The passage of time on a mechanical movement watch is measured
by a spring-driven
mechanism. The spring
(also called
a mainspring), needs to
be wound periodically.

Mechanical or manual
timepieces perform
virtually the same
function as those
powered by quartz
movement.

Apart from the lack of a


battery, closer
inspection reveals
something extra - an added emotion that has caught the fancy of
many a horologist.

A mechanical world of complex spiraling springs and moving gears


that fuel the movement of the watch hands with elegant accuracy.

Some of the rotor mechanisms on these watches work in


conjunction with the earth's gravitations pull - compressing the
mainspring during wrist movement and creating kinetic energy that
fuels the automatic winding mechanism.

The intricate mechanism in these watches can often only be


described as art. In fact, with some manual movement watches -
reading time becomes an afterthought as these classic wristwatches
transpire into something else. They are more appropriately
termed timepieces, collector's items and accessories.

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How Mechanical Movement Works

1. Unlike quartz movements, a mechanical movement uses


energy from the wound mainspring to power a watch, rather
than a battery.
2. This spring transfers energy through a number of springs and
gears, powering the function of the watch hands and the
complications.

Benefits of Mechanical Movement

Longevity: A well-built mechanical watch will last a lifetime


with proper care.
Batteries: You dont need to worry about any battery
replacements, which are always an inconvenience. Many
consider manual rewinding of a simple mechanic wristwatch to
be a strongly desirable ritual.
Aesthetics: Many mechanical timepieces have a clear sapphire
casing on the back which gives a clear view of the fascinating
rotations and oscillations of the minute working parts.

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3. Automatic Movement
Often referred to as self-
winding, an automatic watch
is a mechanical watch that
harnesses kinetic energy
from the natural motion of
the wearer's wrist.

The mainspring is
automatically wound from
the natural movements of the
wearer's wrist. Manual
winding is not required.

How Automatic Movement


Works

The internal mechanism is


similar to a mechanical
movement.

1. A metal weight called a rotor is added to the manual parts.


2. The rotor can rotate freely and is connected to the movement.
3. The rotor spins with each movement of the wrist, transferring
the energy to the mainspring.
4. The mainspring is automatically wound as a result of this
energy transfer.

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Benefits of an Automatic Watch:

The ritual of daily winding your watch is not required with an


automatic watch.
With regular wear, the watch continues to function.

While mechanic watches tend to be comparatively delicate and slim


in shape, automatic models are usually thicker because of the
additional rotors. A sign of a high quality mechanical watch lies in
the weight - it feels hefty in your palm.

How to buy a quality watch? Click here to watch the video.

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Chapter 3
Key Takeaways

The movement or caliber is what makes a watch tick.

The three types of watch movements:


1. Quartz
2. Mechanical
3. Automatic

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Chapter 4: Watch Bands

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Chapter 4: Watch Bands


Why do watch bands matter?

They are the anchor of time


on your wrist. Each strap
gives a different message.

Function
Class
Relaxation

The band types convey


signals about who you are,
and what purpose youre
serving.

For example, a rubber strap


may signal you are a diver. A
leather strap shows the man
dressing up for a classy night
out. A nylon strap may speak of sandy beaches and drinks with
umbrellas in them. Metal gives a heavy accessory feel where leather
gives a minimalistic classy mood.

When youre shopping for bands keep wrist size & proportions in
mind. Metal bands will look bulkier on smaller wrists, even if theyre
the same size as the leather straps. If you have small wrists, its best
to stay away from metal.

One idea is to shop for a watch that comes with interchangeable


bands, so you can switch them out when you have different outfits.

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Leather

Leather bands are going to give your watch a slimmer look. They
have a sleek tone which makes them the primary choice for formal
attire. The minimalistic feel from leather band watches give a classic
feeling. You also can dress them down, making them the primary
choice when starting your watch collection because of the
versatility.

Leather bands come in a variety of choices. When picking your


leather band look at several factors:

They type of leather


The padding inside the strap
Quality & color of stitching

Click on the above image to view the full infographic.

These matter for several reasons. If the leather is synthetic, the


bending of the watch strap to buckle it will begin to crack over time,
reducing the number wears and longevity.

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Watches with no padding can


begin to feel uncomfortable
when worn throughout the day.
If youre wearing it for 12 hours
a day you want it to be
Quality plays an comfortable on your wrist.
important role in the
The stitching is important
duration of wears you because the slightest difference
can get out of the in the color of stitching in a
watch strap can drop the
watch. formality from dressy to casual.
You ideally want the stitching to
match the color of your leather.

Types of leather range from


common leather types to exotic.

Examples:

Cowhide
Calfskin
Bison
Lizard
Snake
Alligator
Full Grain
Top Grain
Genuine (Suede)

Stay away from faux leather


straps!

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Metal

A metal watchband, even one the same size as a leather band, will
always appear larger & heavier because of the nature of metal. This
is an important consideration if you have smaller wrists. Metal
bands will present the appearance of a larger watch, making it a
primary choice for men with larger wrists.

Metal is lower on the formality scale than leather. It goes well with
sports coats and a pair of odd trousers or denim. On occasion its
okay to wear metal bands with suits if its not a formal suit.

Common types of metals used in watches have a wide range.


Examples are:

Stainless Steel
Titanium
Aluminum
Rhodium
Gold
Silver
Platinum

Each one can come in a polished or natural state. If you want a


watch as an heirloom the best options are something with longevity.
Titanium and stainless steel in their natural state are great options
for that. Solid gold and platinum will also stand the test of time as
well, although a more expensive option.

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Fabric

Fabric is usually found in functional and casual watches.

Material like nylon is an excellent choice for an informal watch. A


great place to wear these are anywhere you may be going around
water; to the lake, or the beach. The fabric wont get easily ruined if
water happens to splash on it. A great summer accessory!

Common types of fabric watches include:

Rubber
Nylon
Tweed
Plastic blends

When looking for quality its best to stay away from plastics. Theyre
pretty cheap and will easily break over time. Rubber is great for
divers or runners that sweat heavily as it wont absorb water.
Tweed is a little dressier and can be matched with business casual
outfits.

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Chapter 4
Key Takeaways

Each watch band may give a message of function,


class or relaxation.

The three types of watch bands are:


1. Leather
2. Metal
3. Fabric

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Chapter 5: Dress Watches

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Chapter 5: Dress Watches


What about a watch whose
only function is form?

The dress watch.

Dress Watch
Features

The sole function of the dress


watch is to compliment a
business suit or formal wear.

Dress watches arent even Click on the above image to view a


that concerned with accurate larger infographic.
timekeeping, as many dont
even have second hands.

So what are the important features to look for then? Put simply,
simplicity.

Practically speaking, a dress watch should be properly proportioned


to the wearers wrist. Otherwise, it will draw attention to itself; the
one thing a dress watch should never do.

Since it is worn with a suit, a dress watch must be thin enough to


slip in and out of a dress shirt cuff easily. The standard rules of
matching metals and leathers with shoes and belts apply as well.

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After taking these


considerations into account,
the next most important
detail for a dress watch is
simplicity. Most dress
watches have no
complications, or have at
most a second hand and a
date window.

The presentation must be


simple as well. Metal sabre
style hour indexes are
common, as are roman
numerals. Arabic numerals
may be used but should be
small.

The dial and bezel should be unornamented, or patterned subtly at


most. White, black or metallic faces are preferred.

Cartier Tank
Remember, dress watches arent going to be read quickly in
dynamic environments the way a sport or military watch would.

As a result, large, high contrast dials arent necessary.

Combining all of these features results in a watch which is small,


subtle and compliments the formality of the event to which it is
worn.

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The Cartier Tank watch was designed around the time of WWI and
so-named because it resembled early

French tanks when viewed from above. It was a favorite of JFK and
with good reason; its difficult to think of a watch that looks more
presidential.

The tank features a square case and distinctive roman numeral hour
markers in black on a white dial.

It is available in quartz, handwind or automatic movements with


prices starting around $2,000 for quartz, all the way up to about the
price of a small house for the diamond encrusted variants.

If you like the design, but


think that up to $8,000 is
outrageous for a quartz
watch, consider one of the
many Tank homage watches
available for less than $200.

Hamilton Intra-Matic
The Hamilton Intra-Matic is a
really nice looking watch that
evokes the design aesthetic of
the early-1960s.

The clean lines and optional


silver dial make it subtle
enough to excel as a dress
watch, yet unique enough to
avoid being just another

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dress watch.

Like all Hamiltons, it uses an


ETA movement and a sapphire
crystal. It comes in 38 or
42mm diameters and gold or
silver finish, so theres one to
suit you wherever your tastes
lie.

Tissot Visodate
I wasnt sure what to make of
Tissot at first. Theyre known
for their sport watches, many
of which just arent my style.
Then I discovered the Heritage
line.

The Tissot Heritage Visodate looks like something youd see on the
wrist of a physicist at an atomic research lab in the 1950s. Thats a
compliment, by the way. I love the look of this watch.

Its available in white and silver or black and gold. The large
day/date window looks considerably more discrete on the white
and silver, plus that combo just screams space-age.

Tissot is a Swatch brand, so it uses an ETA automatic movement like


the Intra-Matic we talked about earlier.

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At 40mm it will fit most


wrists. It isnt terribly thin
though, so wear your best
dress shirt when you try it on
to make sure it fits well.

Seiko SRN052

The Seiko SRN052 has a


couple of features that really
make it stand out.

First, the day sub dial below


the date window. It makes the
watch unique, yet isnt a
distraction from the overall
presentation.

Second, it uses Seikos Kinetic technology. Kinetic is to quartz


watches what automatic movements are to mechanical watches.

While an automatic uses a rotor to keep the mainspring wound as


the wearers hand moves, a Kinetic uses the wearers movement to
charge the battery that powers the quartz movement.

Its the best of both worlds; the accuracy of quartz, without the
hassle of having to change batteries. Not bad for less than $200.

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Vacheron Constantin Patrimony


When it comes to ultra-high
end Swiss luxury watches, the
sky is really the limit as far as
price is concerned. The
bottom end is around the
price of a used car, while the
top end is literally in the
millions of dollars.

The Vacheron Constantin


Patrimony is on the low end of
that range at only $15,000.

Thats not unreasonable, even


if it is unreachable for most of
us. A watch like this is hand
assembled, usually taking
weeks or months of extremely
skilled labor.

It doesnt use a mass produced


movement like a Swatch or Seiko brand. It uses a movement
designed and built in-house by a master craftsman.

For all that, the finished product is extremely refined. The


presentation is elegant, but straightforward and slim, at less than
7mm.

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Start Off with a Dress Watch.


You can get by without a
field watch.

Aviation, diving and racing


watches are specialized
tools.

You dont need one if you


dont participate in those
activities. But every man
will be required to dress his
best at some point.

It may be an important
meeting or a job interview.

You dont have to wear a


watch at a wedding or a
funeral, but if you do, it has
to match the formality of the event.

A dress watch is the only watch that will serve at formal and
business events.

For this reason, the dress watch is the only watch in your collection
that is absolutely indispensable.

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Click on the above image to read the full article on dress watches.

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Chapter 5
Key Takeaways

The sole function of the dress watch is to compliment


a business suit or formal wear.

A dress watch should be properly proportioned to


the wearers wrist.

Match metals and leathers with shoes and belts

White, black or metallic faces are preferred in dress


watches.

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Chapter 6: Field Watches

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Chapter 6: Field Watches


Imagine a battlefield at the
break of dawn.

The artillery bombardment


goes on for precisely eight
minutes.

Almost before the last round


hits, the infantry assault has
begun while the cavalry
regiment charges the enemy
flank nearly simultaneously.

This was what warfare


looked like at the turn of the
twentieth century.

And it was made possible


because of the wristwatch.

Click on the above image to view a


You see, in the mid- larger infographic.
nineteenth century, only
women wore wristwatches. Then some enterprising German officers
adapted this ladies jewelry into a practical, rugged, tool of warfare.

While officers had been coordinating operations with pocket


watches for some time, the wristwatch was considerably more
practical: smaller, lighter and faster to use.

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As the watch's popularity spread throughout the industrialized


militaries of the world, certain design features emerged which
would come to epitomize the field watch.

The style has persisted and the modern man would be well served
by adding one to his collection.

What Makes a Field


Watch?

Traditionally, a good field watch


First and foremost, would have a stainless steel case
though modern versions may
field watches must be feature PVD coatings or titanium
rugged. construction.

A field watch must be readable,


even under low-light or night
conditions. As such, it will have a
high-contrast black dial with
white numbering.

The polished gold hour markers that are common on more formal
watches can be slow to read in the field and can create undesirable
glare under sunlight.

The bands on field watches were traditionally canvas or leather,


since they could easily be swapped out if damaged. While metal link
bracelets would seem to be the most durable, they are easily
scratched and costlier to replace.

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These design features culminated in WWII when the US Army issued


contracts for the A-11 followed in the early 1950s by the A-17 watch
patterns.

These two designs, manufactured by Waltham, Bulova and Elgin,


solidified the look of the field watch, which has perpetuated to this
day.

Most modern field watches take inspiration from these two designs.
The major differences being size and movement.

The originals were 36mm cases with hand wound movements, while
the modern versions are in the 38-44mm range and usually feature
automatic or quartz movements.

The Field Watch and the Modern Man


The style was immensely popular during and between the world
wars and has remained popular ever since.

There are field watches available for every budget and so every man
should consider adding one to his collection.

Here are the most classic brands that manufacture field watches.

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Timex
Timex makes a number of field
watches in the $30-$60 range.

Look for Expedition and


Weekender models.

At this price point, the case is


going to be finished brass with
a mineral glass crystal.

Dont let that deter you


though; I know military
officers who have been
wearing Timex watches in the
field for years and theyve held
up quite well.

This Expedition Scout is a classic example of a field watch and is


available in a variety of finishes to suit individual taste.

Wenger
Wengers Swiss Army line also offers several field watches.

The Terragraph series has an iconic dial with small seconds and the
inner-outer, 12-24 hour markings of the A-17.

They are available in Swiss quartz movements with sapphire


crystals, a nice surprise in a sub-$100 watch.

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The Terragraph has some


modern additions to
complement the classic style.

It features a date window,


which none of the original
field watches had and it has
been enlarged to a modern
43mm.

Victorinox

Victorinox is the other


manufacturer to produce
Swiss Army watches.

They typically offer a little


more refinement than the
Wengers, but with a price tag
to match.

Their quartz offerings will run $200-$500 while their automatic


models are typically in the $350-$800 range.

They have branded all of their field watches under their Infantry
collection.

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The stainless steel Infantry


quartz model is a great
example of how a little
refinement can allow a field
watch to do double duty.

With a ballistic nylon NATO


strap, you could wear it
camping over the weekend,
then wear it on a leather strap
to the office on Monday.

Hamilton
Hamilton is a really interesting
player in the field watch game.

They were producing marine


chronographs for the Navy
during WWII, they didnt make any field watches under government
contract until around the Vietnam era.

As the American economy shifted from manufacturing to


information,

Hamilton was bought out by the Swatch group, a mega-


conglomerate including Tissot, Longines, and Omega. While the
company was now Swiss-owned, the brand saw a surge in
popularity due to savvy movie tie-ins.

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Hamilton secured dozens of


movie deals in the 1990s and
2000s.

You might recognize the


retro-futuristic Ventura from
Men in Black or the Khaki line
of field watches from Michael
Bays Pearl Harbor.

The Hamilton Khaki isnt a


reproduction or homage
watch; they are modern
watches with classic style.

With models available from


38 to 44mm they have one to
fit every wrist and their use of
ETA movements guarantees
consistent high quality.

Marathon
Marathon is one of the only manufacturers producing watches
under US military contract today.

While best known for their SAR line of dive watches, they have
recently issued an updated field watch modeled after the A-17.

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Over the years, the A-17 style


was built under several
different designations.

The last of these was the GG-


W-113 made for the Air Force
in the 1980s.

The Marathon General


Purpose Mechanical is the
modern reinterpretation of
the GG-W-113, it even uses
original Benrus movements.

The GP Mechanical is an
interesting combination of
modern and traditional.

The case has been updated


and the illumination is provided by tritium gas tubes, but the
movement is handwound and the watch is the traditional 36mm in
diameter.

The Bottom Line


Field watches are classic, rugged and reliable. The range of features
and prices means that any man who desires can add one to his
collection.

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Chapter 6
Key Takeaways

Field watches must be ruugged.

A field watch must be readable, even under low-light


or night conditions.

The bands on field watches were traditionally canvas


or leather.

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Chapter 7: Aviator Watches

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Chapter 7: Aviator Watches


Sunglasses. Bomber jackets. Watches.

These are some of the things that come to mind when we think
about aviator style. Today were going to talk about aviation
watches.

Ive always had a keen interest in aviators watches and Im going to


share my insights and observations to help you choose your ideal
timepiece.

There isnt any one style that defines an aviator watch. In keeping
with the forward thinking nature of the aviation industry, the type
has grown and developed as new technology and new requirements
have emerged.

Click on the above image to view a


larger infographic.

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Origins of The Aviator Watch


The earliest watches worn by
pilots were simply repurposed
field watches.

They had to be accurate, of


course and they had to be
readable under low-light
conditions.

Field watches, with their


hand-wound movements and
black dials with large white
numerals satisfied both of
these requirements.

Over time, air forces around


the world began to develop
watches with specific aviation
functions.

In the 1930s the Luftwaffe developed the Flieger style of watches:


The Type-A with simple numerals and delta index at 12 oclock, and
the Type-B with large minutes in the outer dial and hours in the
inner dial.

The original Type-B was a massive 55mm and was issued to


navigators who needed precise timing for dead-reckoning
navigation: finding a target by flying solely referencing time and
magnetic heading.

Three of the five original manufacturers still produce fliegers today.

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Laco, Stowa and IWC. They


arent huge anymore though,
theyve been scaled down
from the massive original
watch.

Lacos Type-As are available in


quartz or Japanese automatic
movements.

The Laco Paderborn Type-B is


their flagship offering in Swiss
automatic with traditional
thermal blued steel hands

Stowa watches are only


available directly from their
website.

They produce traditional


Fliegers with Swiss automatic movements.

IWC is a Swiss luxury manufacturer. Their Fliegers are modern


updates to the Type-A. Expect to spend between $4,000 and $15,000
for an IWC.

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The Space Race & Aviator Watches


In the jet-age, as pilots found
themselves flying across
multiple time zones a new
requirement emerged.

In order to standardize global


operations, airlines and air
forces began coordinating
operations based on
Greenwich Mean Time, aka
GMT or Zulu time.

In response, Rolex developed


the GMT Master II featuring
two hour hands, one
corresponding to the
traditional 12-hour watch
face on the dial and the other
synchronized to a 24-hour
bezel.

This allowed pilots to track flight time with the Zulu bezel and still
use the local time zone while on the ground.

Once the space race got into full swing and astronauts became
celebrities, watch manufacturers were quick to advertise the
watches that NASA selected for use in space. The most famous such
watch is the Omega Speedmaster Professional.

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Ed White wore his personal


Speedmaster during the first
space walk and NASA then
selected it as the standard
issue watch for the Apollo
program.

The Digital Age &


Aviator Watches
Aviation watches can vary
from super-minimal displays
which provide a very quick
read, to feature heavy watches
which have a lot of
complications.

Citizens Hawk watches are


definitely the latter.

The three versions: The Navihawk, Skyhawk and Nighthawk all


feature multiple time zones, solar quartz movements, 1/100s
chronographs and their most distinctive feature, the circular slide
rule.

The circular slide rule, or whiz wheel is a tool used by pilots to


perform all kinds of time/fuel/distance calculations and unit
conversions.

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It can be an extremely useful


feature if you know what you
are doing and knowing how
to use one is a sign of
credibility among aviators.

The Hawks are complicated;


in fact, some would say they
are too busy.

Their metal case designs and


link bracelets or optional
leather bands make them
suitable for business and
casual occasions, while their
rugged design means they
can stand up to outdoor or
active use as well.

In my experience, airplane
pilots tend to prefer
Skyhawks, while the
Nighthawk is favored by
helicopter pilots.

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The Toughest Aviator Watch You Can Own


As far as digital watches go, there is only one name worth
mentioning: Casio G-Shock. The GW-500 is probably the most
common watch in the US Air Force, worn by the majority of the
pilots Ive met.

It is extremely tough, solar powered, features dual time zone


functionality and receives a radio time signal for the most accurate
timekeeping available. I bought mine in pilot training eight years
ago, its been to Iraq and Afghanistan and is still going strong.

It is one of the most rugged looking watches around though, and is


only suited for use in the field.

How to Wear an
Aviator Watch?
The watches, much like the
pilots who inspired them, can be
Most aviation watches a bit ostentatious and
lend themselves well inappropriate in more formal
settings.
to casual and business
casual wear. Make sure you have the
confidence to bend the rules if
you choose to wear one with a
suit.

Whether you prefer the simple utility of the Flieger, the cutting edge
features of the Skyhawk or the history behind the Speedmaster Pro,
there is an aviation watch to suit every mans style.

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Chapter 7
Key Takeaways

Aviator watches are accurate and readable under low


light conditions.

The first aviator watches have 2 hour hands.

The circular slide rule, or whiz wheel is a tool used


by pilots to perform all kinds of time/fuel/distance
calculations and unit conversions.

Most aviation watches lend themselves well to casual


and business casual wear.

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Chapter 8: Dive Watches

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Chapter 8: Dive Watches


Goldfinger.

Having planted the plastic explosives, Bond sets the timer on the
detonator after first checking the time on his Rolex Submariner.

Later, after removing his scuba gear to reveal an immaculate white


dinner jacket, he again glances at his watch as a massive explosion
rocks the nightclub.

Just like that, Sean Connery propelled the dive watch into stardom,
where it has remained ever since.

Click on the above image to view a larger


infographic.

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Dive Watch History


Along with the field watch and the aviation watch, the dive watch is
one of the most prolific mens watch styles. It should be obvious
that accurate timekeeping is crucial when hundreds of feet
underwater while carrying a finite supply of air.

As a result, divers have always


demanded superior timepieces.
Modern scuba didnt really exist
until the 1950s, right around the
time Ian Fleming started writing
the James Bond novels.
The dive watch is one
of the most prolific Fleming wrote the novels every
mens watch styles. summer while vacationing at his
home in Jamaica, where he was an
avid diver. This was the same
time that Rolex introduced the
Submariner and so Bond, diving
and Rolex have been linked ever
since.

What Makes a Good Dive Watch?


In addition to accuracy, a dive watch must also possess superior
water resistance. A true diver will conform to the ISO 6425
standard, a series of tests designed to ensure resistance to at least
100 meters, though many will offer even greater resistance.

Case and band material must be corrosion resistant, so stainless


steel, titanium, silicone and rubber are often used. Bands are
typically longer than usual in order to fit over bulky dive equipment.

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While sapphire is often the desired watch crystal material, divers


may prefer hardened mineral glass.
Even though it scratches more easily than sapphire, it is more
resistant to breakage, which can be catastrophic when deep
underwater.

The defining characteristic of the dive watch is the uni-directional


bezel. A good dive bezel will only rotate counter-clockwise. This
enables to the diver to set the index to the minute hand at the
beginning of the dive and easily see how long he has been under.

If the uni-directional bezel is inadvertently rotated, it will show


greater time underwater rather than less. By erring on the side of
caution the diver can avoid exceeding his available air or providing
insufficient decompression time.

The Iconic Original


Rolex Submariner
Dive Watch

You cant talk about dive


watches without talking
about the Rolex Submariner.

I couldnt even write the


introduction to this article
without bringing it up.

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Nearly every other dive watch


has copied at least some
aspect of the Submariners
design.

Its the quintessential dive


watch.
An authentic one will set you
back almost $7,000 and youll
have to get used to being
asked Is it a real Rolex?. The
Submariner is probably the
most copied watch in
existence.

Strangely enough, even a


knock-off Rolex can still be a
pretty high quality watch.

But if you want the real thing,


make sure you buy from an
official dealer.

The Other Bond Watch


James Bond has always had a knack for fancy watches. A style icon
like Mr. Bond needs a watch that not only matches his elegant taste
but also his performance for MI6.

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The modern cinematic James


Bond hasnt lost touch with
his diving roots either. In the
Daniel Craig era, Bond favors
the Omega Seamaster Pro.

With its in-house automatic


movement and high-end
refinements such as sapphire
crystal, two-tone stainless
steel band and distinctive
scalloped bezel, the Seamaster
looks great and has the
performance to match.

Navy SEALs, What the


Professionals Wear

A group of world class, top-tier operators like the Navy SEALs are
going to demand only the best from their equipment.

Their dive skills are what distinguish the SEALs from their brother
special operations forces and so they, like Bond are known for their
taste in watches.

Luminox has had a longstanding relationship with the SEALs


starting with their 3001 Original Navy SEAL Dive Watch. The line
has since expanded to include several models in the $150-$200
price range.
The watches are tough polyurethane cases with hardened mineral
crystals, Swiss quartz movement and tritium gas illumination.

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Most watches use phosphorescent illumination, which requires it to


be charged in bright light before it works.

Tritium is a radioactive isotope of hydrogen, which is self-


illuminating; bright, constant light with no charging and it lasts
about 15 years.

Seiko Dive Watch

Seikos dive watches provide a


number of desirable features
at a very attractive price.

The Seiko SKX173 uses a


Japanese automatic movement
and uses nearly unbreakable
Hardlex mineral crystal.

The stainless case and


polyurethane band are durable
and corrosion resistant.

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The watch provides 200m of


depth resistance and comes
in under $200.

Suunto Dive Watch

Suunto refers to their


watches as wrist-top
computers and there is no
more apt description for the
range of features that they
provide.

The Suunto Core features


barometer, depth
measurement, altimeter, compass and oh yeah, it also tells time.

Suuntos are another popular watch among spec-ops forces who


might have to parachute or dive to a location and then navigate
overland to an objective.

The range of features and calculations means this one tool can step-
up to many of the situations that these operators made encounter.

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Marathon Dive Watch


Marathon is best known for
the SAR line of dive watches,
so named because they were
designed for use by the
Canadian Air Forces Search
and Rescue Technicians (SAR
Techs).

It looks a bit like a


Submariner on steroids, and
Marathon is fond of drawing
the comparison, as they
advertise on their site

A Rolex is a jewel, a
Marathon is a tool.

It uses a Swiss Automatic movement, features tritium illumination


and is just about bulletproof.

Adding One to Your Collection


As you can see, dive watches run the gamut from ultra-high-end to
exceptionally rugged. Recognize the place in your wardrobe you
want the watch to fit and choose the right watch within your budget.

Whether youre a diver or just an admirer of the style and


heritage theres a dive watch to suit you.

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Chapter 8
Key Takeaways

Accurate timekeeping is crucial in dive watches.

A dive watch must possess superior water resistance.

Case and band material must be corrosion resistant,


so stainless steel, titanium, silicone and rubber are
often used.

A good dive bezel will only rotate counter-clockwise.

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Chapter 9: Racing Watches

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Chapter 9: Racing Watches


When one thinks of racing watches, one name immediately comes to
mind: Steve McQueen

His association with auto racing, motorcycles, leather jackets and


pretty much everything cool made him a serious trendsetter.
Being a box-office star didnt hurt either.

When he set out to make Le Mans, a fictionalized account of the real


24 Hours of Le Mans endurance race, he was presented with several
watch choices by the head of Swiss Heuer.

He selected the Heuer Monaco and immortalized it.

Click on the above image to view a larger


infographic.

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Racing Watch Style


So far weve looked at field, aviation and dive watches. With their
military heritage, those styles tend to look very utilitarian.

Youll have far more exotic color and style options when selecting a
racing watch than say, a field watch. Just remember that the flashier
the watch, the more casual it becomes and dress accordingly.

Racing Watch
Essentials
There are two features which
define a good race watch. A
chronograph and a tachymeter.
Racing watches, not A chronograph is a watch with a
being bound by separate stopwatch function,
usually featuring an extra sub-
uniformity, tend to be dial (or three) and pushers at
much flashier. the 2 and 4 oclock positions to
start/stop and reset the second
hand.

A tachymeter is a type of bezel


used to make time and distance
calculations.

By measuring the number of seconds to travel a known distance, the


outer markings will show speed in the unit measured per hour.

Sound complicated? Try this example: If you started timing at zero


seconds and went a mile in 30 seconds, you would look down and

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see 120 at the 6 oclock (or 30 second) position on the bezel. The
watch is telling you that your speed is 120 miles per hour.

It doesnt matter what unit of measure you use; the tachymeter still
reads units per hour. Obviously that can be useful to a racer
calculating laps per hour at a track.

The Steve McQueen


Monaco

The Heuer Monaco that was


featured in Le Mans is still
produced by Heuer (now TAG
Heuer).

There are several versions,


with the Calibre 11 being the
most similar to the McQueen
version.

It has all the features youd


expect: Swiss automatic
movement, sapphire crystal,
chronograph, but it comes in a
very distinctive square case.

TAG Heuer has an extensive line of racing watches besides the


Monacos. The Carrera line has the same racing roots as the Monaco
but in a more modern and aggressive style.

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The Rolex Daytona

The Daytona is Rolexs racing


chronograph.

They start at $12,000 but


there are variants that are
among the most sought after
watches on Earth and they are
also associated with a movie
star turned racer.

Paul Newman favored Rolex


Daytonas with contrasting
dials and subdials.

The so-called panda Daytona


for their black and white faces
are the most desired of these.

No longer in production, they routinely sell at auction for several


hundred thousand dollars. Naturally, there are more fakes in
existence than real ones.

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The Seiko Sportura


If like most of us, you arent
going buy a racing watch that
costs more than a race car
then you should check out the
Sportura line from Seiko.

Featuring solar powered


quartz movements, bold
colors, a large face, and
sapphire crystal and coming in
at under $500, youre sure to
find one you like. Im partial to
the SSC274 with its rose gold
and black finish.

Omega Speedmaster

You may recall the so-called Moon Watch from the Aviation
Watches, but Ed Whites famous Omega was actually a racing
chronograph.

The Speedmaster includes the usual Omega refinements, in-house


automatic movement, sapphire crystal, but the style choices range
from the conservative to the bold.

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Torgoen
Torgoen is a Swiss watch
manufacturer that started out
making aviation watches.

Theyve since branched out and


now offer racing watches.

The T18 line has all the bells


and whistles, but what I really
like about them is the dial.

Theyve taken the standard


three sub-dial chronograph face
and detailed it to resemble the
crankshaft and cylinder heads
of a V-configuration racing
engine.

Adding a Racing Watch to Your Collection


As you can see, there is a broader range of options when it comes to
racing watches than with any style weve discussed thus far.

Some racing watches could work with business casual attire, while
others are sport watches and might not even be appropriate for
casual wear.

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The important thing to remember is that racing watches are


designed to complement race cars and their drivers.

Making a statement, being loud, is kind of the point.


Dont be afraid to go bold.

Heres a video on watch styles. Click here to watch.

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Chapter 9
Key Takeaways

Racing watches tend to be more flashier, more exotic


in color.

The two features which define a good race watch:


1. Chronograph
2. Tachymeter

Some racing watches could work with business casual


attire, while others are sport watches.

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Chapter 10: Matching A Watch


To Your Outfit

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Chapter 10: Matching A Watch


To Your Outfit
Rules to match your watch
with your outfit?

Sounds a little too much?

Imagine a man in a tuxedo at


a black-tie event.

He has poise, style and


a posture that grabs
everyones attention.

He casually turns his wrist to


check the time a Casio
calculator wristwatch with a
rubber strap

FAIL!!

This is the power of a


wristwatch, gentlemen it
can either break or build an
outfit!

Since men wear limited jewelry, a watch is an expression of their


personality. The best wristwatches are simple, versatile,
sophisticated and classic.

Most men prefer to own more than one watch so they can wear the
appropriate timepiece to complement their outfit.

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The style of watch you choose to wear needs to match the


formality of your outfit.

What are the 5 watch-matching rules that are timeless and relevant
in any situation?

Match The Formality of Your Watch with The


Formality of Your Outfit
Digital or analog watches?

Dress or casual?

Whats the difference?

Analog watches have a face


with hour and minute hands
and either markers or
numbers that display a 12-
hour day. These watches are
considered classic and more
formal, making them suitable
for business, formal events or
a date.

Digital watches have a LCD


display or LED face that
shows time in numeric form.
These watches are
considered casual.

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Watch Categories
The recent developments in
wearable technology has
allowed watchmakers to make
nifty gadgets that are far
advanced than simple
timepieces.

You can make calls, track your


GPS co-ordinates and check
your calendar through gadget
watches.

Leaving exclusive gadget


watches out of the equation,
there are five categories of
watches that most men own

Dress Watches A watch with a plain white face and no


complications and a black leather band is as formal as it gets.

The most formal dress watch are the ones that only show hours,
minutes, seconds and maybe the date. Complications in dress
watches are simpler and not related to sport.

Divers watches Also referred to as a diving watch, these were


originally worn as work/tool watches. Designed for underwater
diving, these watches feature a minimum water resistance up to 100
meters.

Dont be inspired by James Bond movies and wear a divers watch


with a suit. Thats the equivalent of wearing a suit with work boots.

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Chrono / Sports Watches


Not a true dress watch, but can
be quite dressy especially in
the higher brands. Sports
watches are durable, sleek and
made from high-quality plastic
composites.

Expect compasses, odometers,


altimeters, GPS technology,
pulse monitors, and a range of
other functions for the guy
leading an active lifestyle.

Pilot or flyer watches


Featuring a simple dial design
and a rather large (over
50mm) diameter, these
watches were made to be
accurate and easy to read. Originally worn over the pilots jacket
they were made with a large crown that could be operated while
wearing gloves.

Field Watches During World War I, the hacking character of a


field watch allowed infantrymen to stop the seconds hand on their
timepieces in order to synchronize their watches. Field watches are
versatile timepieces that are tough enough for active duty.

The simple design improves legibility of the numerals. Typically,


these watches are moderately sized, with a white or green numerals
against a black dial and work on a hand winding mechanism.

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Levels of Formality
Watches are made for a specific purpose. Avoid common fashion
blunders by matching your watch style with the formality of the
occasion.

Black tie / White Tie For formal events, simplicity is key.


Historically it would be considered rude if you were to refer to
your watch at such an event. A simple dress watch in a classic style
and black leather band will mute any objections from conservative
observers.

Business dress For business go with a simple and classic styled


gold or silver watch with a thin dial with limited or no
complications. A dark conservative suit is best paired with a
classic dress watch or a diver watch with a leather strap.

Business Casual A light colored suit with no necktie is best


complimented with a high-end chrono, a pilot or even a smart field
watch.

Casual If a watch has a metal band, it is considered less formal. A


metal band is generally suitable for casual wear while a leather band
is suitable for any purpose. Any of the watch categories can be worn
with jeans, a chambray shirt and dress boots combination. Digital
watches should only be worn with casual clothes or workout attire.

Sports For activities that involve unpredictable physical


movements, such as sports, a dress watch would be inappropriate.

The strap, case and watch dial are protected with materials that
allow you to focus on the activity no need to worry about your
watch snapping off your wrist or the glass shattering mid-game.

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Click on the above image to view a larger infographic.

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Leather Complements Leather


The material and color of your shoes is a suitable reference for the
choice of watchband.

You should start by matching your belts and shoes. A black


watchband should be worn with black shoes and belt; a brown band
with brown belt and shoes. A silver or gold band suits either color.

Interchangeable bands are an excellent option for men who own


shoes in different colors. The watchbands dont have to be the exact
same color as your shoes, but a similar tone (light vs medium vs
dark).

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Dont wear a black band watch with a brown tone shoe. Or a


brown band with black shoes.
A watch with a rubber band is strictly for casual or sporting
occasions.

A chronometer is made for


sport and styled for sport. It
should generally be worn for
sport.

Plastic bands are used for more


casual digital watches. In analog
A good leather strap is timepieces, the watchband
the classic choice, is either made of leather or the
same kind of metal used on the
case.

Rough, worn-in leather straps


work better with jeans. Such a
watch would not be appropriate
at a fine-dining event.

Gold or silver bands are appropriate when they complement the rest
of your outfit.

Metal Complements Metal


The metal case of the watch (the frame around the face) should
complement the metal accents of your other accessories. The case
can be square, rectangular, round, and polygonal. The finish on the
case can be matte, shiny, matte, patterned, or inlaid with crystals or
other jewels.

The metals used to make the case include steel, gold, silver, platinum
and titanium.

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A rose gold watch can be worn with a gold belt buckle its close
enough.

What if the metal casing on the watch is blacked out? Then you can
go with either gold or silver.

You want to coordinate the metal color with your watch and ring, so
that all your accessories, for example, are gold.

The other accessories you will need to pay attention to include cuff
links, shoe buckles, buckles on the side adjusters of trousers or on
the back of your waistcoats and any other piece of jewelry on your
outfit.

A gold-plated watch is best-suited to clothes and shoes in earthy


tones, while silver goes with grey, blue and black.

Heirloom Watches
Bend the Rules
Heirloom pieces represent a
legacy.

They are usually worn as a


good-luck charm or as a
memory of original owner. An
heirloom watch is an item that
cannot be subjected to the
rules of matching watches
with clothes.

For a simple reason they are


great conversation pieces and
they make you memorable.

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Heirlooms allow you to bend and even violate the rules mentioned
here.

An heirloom watch is not worn based on the latest trends or


fashions, it is a reminder of family history and culture.

Men who fought in World War I passed on their wristwatches to


their sons and grandsons as a memory of the sacrifices made by that
generation.

Though the function of these watches is not as a timekeeper


these heirlooms are meant to be cherished and passed on through
the generations.

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When in Doubt Match Your Watch to Your Shoes


Black is generally dressier, but that doesnt make it the default right
choice. Sometimes brown shoes are just a better choice.

Interchangeable leather bands are useful here one in brown and


one in black for each watch. Or another color for more variety.

Black leather is more formal than brown. A black watchband is more


suited for formal events. Slip-on tassel loafers are considered
business casual.

Not able to decide between a brown or black leather band? Equate


the dressiness to the brown shoe versus black shoe category.

Silver watches match best with shoes in black, gray, silver, and blue
shades.

Gold watches go with browns, beiges, tans, and other earth tones.
Wearing Oxford balmoral black shoes with a dark suit? Go with a
formal watch.

For the best effect, pick a watch according to your size as well.

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Watches should be proportionate to your body. Thin men can work


slim watches, while bigger guys can carry watches that have boxier
and robust watch faces.

Use these tips to ensure a harmony between your clothes and your
watch.

Heres a video on matching your outfit with you watch. Click here to
watch in Youtube.

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Chapter 10
Key Takeaways

Watches are made for a specific purpose.

The material and color of your shoes is a suitable


reference for the choice of watchband.

The metal case of the watch should complement the


metal accents of your other accessories.

An heirloom watch is not worn based on the latest


trends or fashions, it is a reminder of family history
and culture.

Watches should be proportionate to your body.

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Chapter 11: How To Buy The Right Watch

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Chapter 11: How To Buy The Right Watch


I learned a valuable lesson
about buying watches from a
shady shop in Hong Kong.

It was a lesson that cost me


$500.

While on a business trip to


China, I got pulled into a back
room and was offered five
luxury watches for a steal.

They were counterfeit luxury


watches. They looked really
nice and I was tempted by the
brand names on the watches
Breitling, Louis Vuitton,
Rolex. And against my better
judgement I violated all the
sensible watch-buying rules ever written and paid $100 for each
watch.

I have never worn those watches.

I wasted $500 that day please learn from my mistakes in this


article so you can make a smart buying decision when purchasing a
watch.

You see, a quality watch isnt just a tool that shows time.

A mans watch is a sign of taste, where you are in life, and its
something that shouldnt be faked.

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And let me be clear any man can buy a great watch at a very
affordable price.

But like anything stylish what watch you wear is a reflection of


your personal taste and the image you wish to project.

Own it and feel great about it when you wear it.

So how to buy a quality watch at a fair price?

Whether youre looking for accuracy of time, a fashion accessory or


something you want to leave your grand-kids here are my five tips
that will help you purchase the right timepiece.

1. Educate Yourself On Classic Watch Styles


To make a sensible and practical wristwatch purchase you have to
go out there and learn more about watches. There is a whole
industry built around horology the science of making timepieces.

For centuries watchmakers have honed their craft to create


complicated pieces of mechanism that are built to outlive the person
wearing them.

There is enough information on commercially available watches in


forums created by watch-lovers.

Numerous websites and blogs offer the latest news on wristwatch


designs. You can even browse through brand specific websites to
compare what makes these watches tick Rolex, Breitling, Seiko,
Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe.

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Get excited about watches and


youll then find the time to
discover why so many men
love them!

Get to know a local


watchmaker or jeweler they
are storehouses of knowledge
and are always willing to talk
about different wristwatch
options.

The salesperson at your local


watch store will be more than
willing to recommend
watches to suit your lifestyle.

2. Understand The True Value of a Watch


One of the first criteria that comes up in a watch purchase is
price. However, it is more important to consider the value of a
watch before discussing pricing.

A simple formula to assess the value of a watch

(Frequency of Use X The Feelings Associated with Wearing It)


The Price of the Watch

Price is not the most important thing. Although most of have a


specific budget in mind it is better to spend a little extra to buy a
quality watch.

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Remember the fake watches I


bought in Hong Kong?

They represent no value to


me because I dont wear
them.

When you find a great


company that feels and looks
great on your wrist, youve
already gotten your moneys
worth and the value is high.

Thats what you want to


strive for in any watch you
purchase wear it, love it,
and reduce the cost per
wear to pennies!

3. Watches & Buyer Protection


Be careful when purchasing watches online.

Check the reputation of both the dealer and company first. If theyre
new, make sure they have testimonials and or a strong social media
presence where they are engaging with customers and following up
with questions.

A manufacturer who is willing to ensure quality will exchange


watches that have been damaged in shipping or have manufacturing
defects.

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You are also more likely to get


standard issue warranties to
cover repairs from certified
dealers or when you buy from
the manufacture themselves.

If youre willing to spend $500


on a watch make sure you
get one that represents quality
instead of five that are fake.

There is a lot counterfeiting in


the watch business.

It is best to purchase your


watch from an authorized
dealer or jeweler.

4. The Economics of Watch Pricing


The different grades of watches vary in the craftsmanship, quality of
materials used and amount of labor involved.

Timepieces under $250 Consumer Watches


These are considered fashion watches that you can purchase to
wear with an outfit. You are not going to feel too bad if they break
after a couple of years.

Although watches in this category are not meant to be heirloom


pieces, you can find some great deals here and a well-made watch at
this price point can last decades.

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Under $1000 Brand & Enthusiast Watches

This is a good price range for men with disposable income looking to
purchase their first statement quality watch.

Of all the ranges this is the one that has the widest variety of
quality levels and you can find deals or get ripped off.

I advise you not buying your first watch at this price point as youll
want to have tested a few at lower price points to ensure youre
going to get your moneys worth and enjoyment from a watch at this
level.

Think of watches at this level as a gateway t the next price point!

$1000 $10,000 Luxury


Watches

This is the bracket of well-


known names. You get what you
Luxury watches by pay for here and once you start
to spend this type of money you
definition, are need to know more about
exclusive items and watches than 99% of men or
else youre getting ripped off.
signal to certain people
your ability to afford Over $10,000 Ultra Luxury
Watches
them.
At this level its not uncommon
for diamonds, gold and other
precious stones to be on the
watch face.

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Many of the of these watches


are not available for public
sale they literally are
controlled and only made
available to select clientele.
Most of these exclusive
watches carry a rich heritage
of exquisite craftsmanship
and exceptional quality.

Watches as an investment?

All the more power to you if


you can afford a 10K watch,
but in general watches are
not an investment. It is
unlikely that you will retrieve
the money spent on it when
trying to sell under duress.
Its like buying a Harley
Davidson motorcycle its
only worth what a buyer will pay for it.

5. Find Enjoyment in Wearing Your Watch


A good quality watch is an expression of your individualism. Only
buy a watch that you are going to enjoy and love wearing.

If you dont enjoy wearing your watch youve wasted your


money.

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Choose it yourself because it should reflect your personality. Unlike


other items that men traditionally buy to express themselves, such
as cars, a wristwatch is on constant display.

A watch is a conversation starter.

Watches are practical purchases that can be worn for decades. A fine
wristwatch can signify a milestone or an achievement like
graduating from college or getting your first job.

It stays on your hand as a reminder of what you have achieved.


Watches are not just a functional piece you need to enjoy wearing
it too.

Here are 7 reasons to wear a watch. Click here to watch.

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Chapter 11
Key Takeaways

Learn the science of making timepieces.

(Frequency of Use X The Feelings Associated with


Wearing It) The Price of the Watch

Check the reputation of both the dealer and


company.

A watch is a conversation starter.

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Chapter 12: Proportions: The Right Size


Watch For Your Wrist

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Chapter 12: Proportions: The Right Size


Watch For Your Wrist
As human beings we are drawn towards natural balance. Leaning
towards correct proportions is instinct, whether we're balancing a
checkbook or building a house.

Generally speaking, if you have a smaller wrist, you will want a


smaller watch.

If you have a larger wrist you will want a larger watch. Let's break
that down a little bit more into 3 key elements.

1. Watch Case Diameter


2. Watch Case Thickness
3. Watch Band Width

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Watch Case Diameter


Case Diameter is the most obvious and noticeable element of
proportion. Men's watches usually range from 38mm to 46mm.

Anything above 46mm starts to become too large, and is usually


reserved for flashy outfits.

Anything below 38mm leans towards jewelry and eases into


women's size watches.

So how do you know what size works for you? Measure your
wrist.

You can use a dollar bill as a hack to measure. Modern US Paper


Currencies are 6 inches in length. Wrap it around your wrist to find
the circumference.

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If your wrist is 6 to 7 inches you will be a small to medium wrist


size. The small to medium diameter cases are 38mm, 40mm,
and 42mm.

If your wrist is 7.5 to 8 inches in circumference, that will be more


proportional with large cases which are 44-46mm.

Watch Case Thickness


Case thickness is oftentimes directly correlated to case diameter.

Back when mechanical watches were dominating the market it was


perceived that a thinner case was higher quality.

This is no longer the case now with electronic watches entering the
market, as well as quartz designs.

A general rule is, as the diameter of the case increases or


decreases, the thickness does as well.

Usually for 38mm to 42mm diameter you will see around 7 mm in


thickness.

Once you get up to 44mm and beyond the thickness increases to


around 9mm.

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The thickness of the case will usually be best proportioned to


your body if you choose the right case diameter

Watch Band Width


A well-proportioned watch usually has a band width of about half its
case diameter.

If you wear a 40mm watch, the width should be approximately


20mm in width. Depending on your style preference you may want
to wear a watch with a wider band width.

My preference is for smaller band widths, however, I do have


smaller wrists.

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If you have larger wrists, you may lean towards wider bands.

If you are only shopping for cases and want to pick out a band later,
you can determine what the width of the band will be based on
the lug width.

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Chapter 12
Key Takeaways

If you have a smaller wrist, you will want a smaller


watch.

If you have a larger wrist you will want a larger watch.

As the diameter of the case increases or decreases,


the thickness does as well.

You can determine what the width of the band will


be based on the lug width.

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Chapter 13: In What Order To Build Your


Watch Collection

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Chapter 13: In What Order to Build Your


Watch Collection
For a newcomer in the watch world, purchasing a timepiece can feel
like a daunting task.

Two identical watches can differ by more than a few hundred


dollars. How do you make a decision and end up with a watch that
you would be proud to wear?

There is no such thing as a bad watch. They all perform the same
basic function - tell time. Your watch purchase should therefore be
according to your personal style, budget and occupation. In that
particular order.

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1. Personal Style
Your watch should be an extension of your own personal style.

The first piece in your watch collection should be simple, classic in


design and restrained. A timepiece that would look good with a suit
or your weekend clothes.

The watch face must not be


oversized or over styled. Choose
a watch your shirt cuff can fit
over. Avoid gaudy and eye-
A dress watch in a catching embellishments.
classic slim design It is unlikely your watch will go
with plain gold or silver out of fashion if you follow this
advice.
metal accents should
be your first choice. Whether you are attending
black-tie events, dinner at a
fancy restaurants or operas, a
classic dress wristwatch can be
dressed up or down based on
the formality of the occasion.

A casual watch is a dress-down timepiece you can wear anywhere


from a day out in town to a beach stroll or to coffee with friends. You
won't have to worry about a quick dive in the pool or a round of golf
while wearing this watch. Perhaps you enjoy diving and need a
watch specifically for that purpose.

Ensure your watch complements your lifestyle.

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2. Budget
Your budget determines
the type of watch movement
you purchase. If you only
have a couple of hundred
dollars, a minimal quartz
watch from a recognized
brand will suffice.

Further up the price scale are


the coveted mechanical and
automatic wristwatches
which are assembled with
great care and skill.

The price of a wristwatch is a


reflection of the materials
used in the construction, the
duration of the manufacturing process and most importantly -
the country of origin for the brand.

It is advisable to stay within your allocated budget for your first


timepiece. If you cannot resist the temptation to purchase a watch
that is above your price range - look into the second-hand market.

At all costs, don't consider your watch as a financial


investment. You'll never get the money back that you spent on it.

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3. Occupation
Arguably one of the most famous watch brands today, back in the
'50s and '60s, Rolex was known almost exclusively by the
professional divers and pilots who relied on the functions the
watches offered.

A few questions to ask yourself before making your watch purchase:

Do you have a job that requires a functional watch? When and


where will you be wearing your watch?

The first watch in your collection should be a timepiece that is


appropriate for most of your working hours.

A banker or financier needs to select a watch that reflects the


sobriety of their workplace. A frequent traveler would benefit from
a watch face that shows multiple time-zones. A bold watch on an
entrepreneur's wrist acts as an ice-breaker while a pilot's watch has
to be easily readable.

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Avoid trying to find a watch that is right for every situation.

If your occupation doesn't require a functional watch, the dress


watch should be the first watch you buy.

It is the most versatile and as already stated - it can be dressed up or


dressed down based on the occasion.

The watch you select needs to be fashionable, financially viable and


functional.

After considering these three factors, make sure you buy a watch
that thrills you every time you catch a glimpse of it on your wrist.

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Chapter 13
Key Takeaways

Ensure your watch complements your lifestyle.

Dont consider your watch as a financial investment. You'll


never get the money back that you spent on it.

The first watch in your collection should be a timepiece that


is appropriate for most of your working hours.

The watch you select needs to be fashionable, financially


viable and functional.

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Conclusion

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Conclusion
So, still want to check your phone for the time? OR would you rather
adorn your wrist with a classic timepiece and make your statement
to the world.
No matter your budget, lifestyle, or occupation there is a perfect
watch out there for you.
This is just the tip of the iceberg. We want to invite you to become a
watch enthusiast and learn what many men around the world
already understand. That watches are a journey to making time
become a bigger part of your life.
It is after all the most precious commodity. Dont waste it on your
phone ;)

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