Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
First and foremost, we would like to thanks to our teacher of this assignment, Abdul Hai for
the valuable guidance and advice. He inspired us greatly to work in this assignment. His
willingness to motivate us contributed tremendously to our assignment. We also would like to
thank his for showing us some example that related to the topic of our assignment. We would
also like to thanks our honorable teachers for his encouragement and guidance to complete
this assignment. Also, we would like to take this opportunity to thanks to Activities and
Importance of sample room of an apparel Industry. Those gave us an opportunity to
participate and learn about the operation. Finally, an honorable mention goes to our families
and friends for their understandings and supports on us in completing this project. Without
helps of the particular that mentioned above, we would face many difficulties while doing
this.
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Index
12 IMPORTANCE OF FASHION IN 13
SAMPLING
13 ROLE OF MERCHANDISER IN 14
FULFILLING THE SAMPLING
14 Conclusion 15
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Introduction
Sampling is one of the main processes in garment manufacturing and it plays vital role in
attracting buyers and confirming the order, as the buyers generally places the order once
satisfied with the quality and responsiveness of the sampling. It is the most crucial and most
important stage of fashion merchandising. Sampling department makes samples on the basis
of the specification and requirement by the buyer. Sampling in merchandising may be defined
as "The concept, perception and ideas of fashion designer developed into product samples, in
systematic stages of product development, with technical and quality clarity in a
development." Though sampling is a difficult and time bound process, it will help the
exporter to get the order from the buyer.
Before placing any order to the factory, the buyer wants to know whether the factory is
capable of producing the styles with the desired quality levels or not. The samples decide the
ability of exporters to deal with any given style of garment. The buyer accesses the capability
of exporter only with the help of Samples. If the samples are of good quality naturally the
buyers will be willing to place the order to factory. Sampling also work as a bridge between
the productions and marketing department, hence it has the influence of both marketing as
well as production department. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and
should be manufactured with optimum quality. Before confirming orders to the factory, the
buyer actually evaluates the skill of the factory to determine whether they will be able to meet
the desired standard. Even, it has been observed upon several occasions that, although factory
was very successful in providing quality samples within given time, the final output from the
production floor were not up to the satisfactory level. But in those cases, buyer did not bother
to give further more orders to the factory. Many factories were seen to get away with their
wonderful buyer feed-back approaches with good factory merchandising communications. In
this case the role of Sample Section is really very vital, because proper feed-back with buyer
is not really possible without the efficient cooperation of the Sample Section. That is why,
role of Sample Section is so important. Again, most of the times, it was found out that, not
exactly due to the workmanship of the Sample Section personnel, the sample has failed,
rather, the failure on most occasions are due to management issues1. Sample Section is a very
busy part of a garments factory. They require handling various types of samples on regular
basis. One sample section handles four to five buyers samples, each buyer works with 10-15
samples seasonally and each style has four to six varieties of samples to be dispatched to
buyer. This figure really indicates that, it is really a jam-packed section where there is very
limited time given by buyers for sample submission deadlines. Moreover, these samples with
adequate quality have to be dispatched within the deadline given by buyer; otherwise,
relationship with buyer will be at risk of deterioration. Therefore, the activities of the Sample
Section have to be handled and organized in a very efficient manner by wonderful
management techniques. The management has to initially find out the reasons, why they are
facing problems and after finding out, they need to give potential suggestive theoretical
solutions and then, they require implementing those. These steps will hopefully be able to
solve these sample section dilemma for the greater interest of the factory and the Apparel
Industry of our country.
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Sample
Sample is nothing but a representation by which a person can understand the production,
qualities, performance etc. Sample can ensure a buyer as well as to the customer about the pre
and post condition of the required product. It can lead the market and the business as well.
Sample Room
Sample room where design ideas are taken from drawing to tangible garment. This is such
kind of production room by which a sample can be made with full of accuracy, specification
and confirmation. In general the most experienced and well performer employee engaged in
the sample room section. So sample room is the most important section in the garments
industry. The sample room is filled with designers, pattern makers, quality controllers, fit
specialists, fabric specialists, sample pattern cutters, sample pressers and sample machinists
all experts in their specific area.
Sample cutters once the patterns are complete, they lay them out onto the desired fabric and
cut out the pieces required to complete a style. The fabric pieces are handed down to the
sample machinists who complete all sewing operations across a variety of sewing machines.
Several of the terms used in sampling have meanings depending on whether wool or cotton,
yarn or fiber is being sampled. This is due to the different representative organizations which
have historically grown around each industry. The appropriate standard should always be
consulted.
Consignment: This is the quantity of material delivered at the same time. Each consignment
may consist of one or several lots.
Test lot or batch: This consists of all the containers of a textile material of one defined type
and quality, delivered to one customer according to one dispatch note. This material is
presumed to be uniform so that this is the whole of the material whose properties are to be
characterized by one set of tests. It can be considered to be equivalent to the statistical
population.
Laboratory Sample: This is the material that will be used as a basis for carrying out the
measurement in the laboratory. This is derived by appropriate random sampling methods
from the test lot.
Test Specimen: This is the one that is actually used for individual measurement and is
derived from the laboratory sample. Normally, measurements are made from several test
specimens.
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Package: Elementary units within each container in the consignment. They might be bump
top, hanks, bobbins, cones or other support on to which have been wound to top, sliver,
roving or yarn.
Container or case: A shipping unit identified on the dispatch note, usually a carton, box,
bale or other container which may or may not contain packages.
Marker planning
The created pattern by the pattern maker is sent to the marker planner for marker drawing
process. The marker planner in the sample room has to prepare markers for costing and the
ordering only.
Cutting
There are no special markers for cut garment panels in the sample room. They dont consider
about the marker efficiency or fabric wastage of sample cutting as they produce garments in
small quantity. (Only one or two garments from one fabric layer, has one or two plies only).
The sample room cutting equipments are deferent from the equipments in the cutting room
and they are not suitable to cut a layer with larger number of fabric plies.
Work-study
The work-study in the sample room is involved with trim YY calculating process and SMV
calculating process. The work-study officer has to calculate the trim YY of garment for
costing and the given consumption by the work-study officer is sent to the trim ordering also.
QC inspections
After the sewing process all the garments are sent to the QC table for quality inspecting. The
QC process in the sample room is done by according to the buyer wise. QCs are allocated
according to the buyer and they are specialized for their buyer. The inspection parameters of
the sample also vary according to its sample stage. The QC has to consider what purpose
these samples are sent the buyer and he has to pay his attention mostly on that purpose of
these samples
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timely sample submission develops wonderful relationship of buyer with the factory.
Successful negotiation of orders is possible due to successful approval of samples. Frequent
rejection of Samples, sometimes, causes cancellation of buyer orders or it negatively
influences buyer not to give future orders to that particular Vendor. This section of the
Apparel Manufacturing Industry is immensely work-loaded. Due to huge pressure of work, if
the management of this section is not very efficient, then a lot of mistakes may occur. These
mistakes of sample making may lead to compel the section to remake the particular sample
which will definitely increase the work-load many more. Faulty sample submission will ruin
the image of the factory to buyers point of view and delay in sample submission may
generate negative questions on the buyers mind about the professionalism of the factory3. So
these are highly required so that Sample Section may work in a better efficient methodology
with required discipline to maintain good factory image to buyer. Here, the work-load on the
sample section is really a major concerning cause. Various Samples are required to be
prepared in the Sample Section. Some of these are mentioned in figure-1.
Photo-
Development Photo-shoot Fit Sample shoot
Sample Sample Sample
White-
Seal Counter Buying
Size-set
Sample Sample Sample
Sample
Marketi
ng
Black-Seal Mock-up, Test Sample Sample
Sample Sample
Figure-1
Various Samples required preparing in the Sample Section
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Causes of Sample Section Dilemma and its Impacts in the Apparel Industry
Page 7 of 16
eradicate such problems we decided to implement 5S in the Sample Section in order to solve
the sample section dilemma.
Step 1:
Seiri: Seiri means sorting. That is, to s discard; sorting things into necessary and
unnecessary items Seiri can be applied to the Apparel Industry Sample Section in the
following means: i. Appoint experienced and skilled workers. ii. Appoint 1 cutting operator
per 1 or 2 buyers samples. Handle 4 to 6 buyers in 1 sample section. iii. Keep buyer-wise
separate storing arrangements which is to be divided into different segments for each styles.
iv. Every style storing arrangement shall have different chambers; e.g. for fabric, PDM file,
trims and accessories, counter sample, etc. v. Keep a common separate zone and tag it with
Miscellaneous zone and move all the items (deemed necessary) of past orders over there. vi.
Replace the old-style items from the cabinet with the current order. vii. Keep only active
machineries and remove all inactive and unnecessary machineries. viii. Follow proper
documentation. Remove all unnecessary documents. ix. Tag and label each and every section.
Step 2:
Seiton: Seiton means systematic arrangement.T is, putting things in order and thus getting
organized. Here, organizing refers to the systematic arrangement of equipments, tools and
materials to provide workers with the most efficient access7. Seiton can be applied to the
Sample Section in the following ways:
i. Use wooden / Partex the circumference of the Sample Section and divide it into several
zones like: Urgent, Running the cutting tables (2 or 3) at the boundary portions of the sample
room. Keep adequate space for the movements of personnel. ii. Place eep ote every-day
follow-up Priority, Important, Less wise iii. Arrange the Sample Managers sitting
arrangement in such a way that, he/she may easily view all the working personnel. iv. Place
the Sewing machines, maintaining proper rows and columns with adequate space for all types
of worker movement. v. Make arrangement for at least 2 ironing operators to operate at the
same time. vi. Arrange for proper lighting and ventilation system in the sample room. vii. The
Team Leaders shall have individual note-books to note down their every jobs by making
segments like Top Priority Important, etc. viii. Every style-wise storing arrangement (like
drawer) may contain wooden chamber partitions.
Step 3:
Seiso: Seiso means shine / super clean. That is, to keep work areas clean. Seiso is a daily
activity for Japanese companies6,8. The work area is scoured at the end of each shift. This
assures us that regular cleaning and shining saves time in the long run. Seiso can be applied
to the Sample Section in the following ways: i. Assign individual cleaning responsibility. ii.
Assign one worker to monitor sample section cleanliness. iii. Keep the Sample Room neat
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and clean. iv. Remove all the sticky-oil and oil-spots from the floor as well as from the m/c
surface. v. Keep the Sample Room dust-free. vi. Keep the Trash-bins at every corner of the
Sample Room and also by the side of each sewing machine, cutting/ finishing tables, etc.
Step 4:
Seiketsu: Seiketsu means to standardize. Here, steps 1, 2 and 3 are maintained properly.
To establish standard so that areas stay cleaned up in order to ensure smooth workflow in the
work-place6. Seiketsu can be applied to the Apparel Industry Sample Section in the following
ways: i. Assign cutting operators to follow-up 1 or maximum 2 buyers samples. Assign 2
operators if any buyer has huge orders / samples. ii. Cutting operators shall look after the
sample section storing inventory of their respective buyers. iii. They shall also follow-up the
sample submission deadline, sample styling, washing, printing, embroidery, etc. instructions
/delivery, etc. iv. There shall be routine maintenance of sample section machines, utilities,
etc. on regular basis. v. There shall be routine clean-up of the whole sample section on
regular basis.
Step 5:
Shitsuke: shitsuke means to sustain. That is, to establish procedures for safe working
environment6, 10. This is the step continuation of the habit of implementing the first four
steps in order to promote 5S campaign. Shitsuke can be applied to the Sample Section in the
following ways: i. Make first 4 steps 1,2,3,4 a regular practice. ii. Make it as a discipline in
this Sample Section. iii. Arrange at least 1 or 2 hours per week training sessions to motivate
and encourage workers why 5S is so important in the working field. iv. Create awareness of
work-place discipline, to ensure speedy and safe disciplined working environment. v. Review
and Assess steps 1 to 4, then make correction adjustments and apply in the Sample Section.
Assessment of sample:
Buyer assesses the sample and gives the feed back within 5 - 7 days to factory with respect to
sample. Feedback from the buyer is 3 types i.e. accepted, rejected, and accepted with
comments. The rejection of sample may be due to following reasons: There could be one or
more reasons for the sample rejection from buyer, these are: sample made out of tolerance,
incorrect construction, fabric quality may not up to mark, incorrect packaging, incorrect size
submission, frequent change in style and more.
These samples are sent to the buyer one after another for approval from the buyer and to
proceed further. Apart from these usual steps, sometimes the buyer suggests some changes in
the prepared sample, and then incorporating those suggestions makes a counter sample and in
it is sent to the buyer for approval. The sampling department helps the merchandising
department for finding out fabric consumption per unit garment and thereby helps in the
costing of garment.
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How far the Sample Section Dilemmas were solved by 5S?
After analyzing the main reasons of the sample section dilemmas, it was found that, if all the
solutions given by implementing 5S system be properly applied, then smooth sample dispatch
with quality is really possible. These are mentioned in table-2.
How far 5S has solved the Sample Section Dilemmas
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Briefs on different samples:
1. Design development:
This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
Design development is either done by buyer or factory
The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.
2. Proto sample:
Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the factory
based on proto sample only.
Normally, buyer send proto sample request to 2-3 factories.
The factory which submits the good quality and optimum price will get confirmation from
buyer.
Proto sample are normally prepared in similar fabric if actual fabric is not available.
Substitute Trims can be used on proto.
As proto sample is given first time to the factory to buyer, so to develop the proto sample
buyer need to provide necessary information along with the proto request. These are:
Specification Sheet (Tech Pack), Bill of Material, Development sample (optional), Paper
patterns (optional), Sample of novelty trims, Sample of fabric yardage (it may be send by
buyer or asked to develop), Details of Print or Embroidery, if any.
Generally proto request is responded within the 7-10 days by merchandiser.
Factory need to submit at least 4 proto samples (quantity may change buyer to buyer)
If buyer does not approve the proto sample, factory needs to submit the 2nd proto sample to
get approval.
Once proto get approved buyer asks to start working on fit sample.
3. Fit sample
Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy
and for approval of construction details.
In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for AD sample for photo
shoot.
Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like, print,
TV or websites to see the response of the consumer.
This sample mainly sends in medium to large or sizes specified by buyer.
The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need to be
used.
This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends upon this
sample presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
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The quality of the sample should be up to the mark of the buyer; hence merchandiser should
aware and make sure that product development team is well aware about the sample quality
parameters.
The cost of sample production is given by buyer or sometimes buyer may give 150% of FOB.
The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the sample in
all sizes.
The size set sample should be made in the actual fabric and trims.
The samples can be made in the sampling room or actual production floor, as required by the
buyer.
Bulk cutting of fabric for production should start only after size-set sample get approved.
Normally, 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.
If sizes are more in number then buyer may ask to skip some sizes, called jump size set
sample.
The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to
ensure the performance of the garment.
The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
Garments for GPT sample can be done along with Size Set sample.
Normally, GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as
well as buyer.
If same style is having 3-4 different colours then only one color sample is tested completely
and other colours samples are tested only with colour way test i.e. only colour fastness tests
are conducted.
9. Wash sample:
Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric after
washing of Denim or shirt washing program, hence either at size set stage or PP stage
washing sample is sent to buyer for approval and carry forward of washing program.
If sample is not approved or approved with comments, factory needs to submit 2nd sample to
get approval.
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After feel assessment buyer may suggest the changes in washing program.
The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing line
with suggestion of QA department.
In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
TOP sample also checked by the buyer for the packaging.
Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual
shipment and sent to buyer.
The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.
Fashion is defined well as the prevailing mode or shape of dress designed by those lead is
accepted. In any given period, fashion reflects the social, economic and cultural forces. Our
ancient civilization identified status or power with visual elements like clothes,
embellishments, and head gear, worn by the kings, ministers, priests or warriors. A fashion
remains popular for a few months or years before being replaced by yet another fashion .A
product or activity is in fashion or is fashionable during the period of time that a large
segment of society accepts it .After a time, however the same product or activity becomes
old- fashioned when majority of the people no longer accept it.
Sampling is the best way to place an order. Though it is a difficult and time ending process it
will help the exporter to get the order from the buyer. The purpose of sampling is not only to
get bulk order and also it gives some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling
the exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on
costing and manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling the exporter can optimize
the processing parameters for mass production, which helps to avoid all kinds of bottle necks
.The samples, decide the ability of an exporter. The buyers will assess the exporter and his
organization only by the samples. If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable
price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the order so it is essential that the samples
should be innovative and with optimum quality.
ROLE OF DESIGNERS
There are countless styles, each of which has its own distinctive characteristics and most of
which have been created by designers and only by them. Designers need to be aware of the
trends and traveling provides them with opportunities to interpret their customer needs .A
designer creates and arranges garments and accessories in such a way that they are visually
pleasing as well as functional.
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DESIGNING A COLLECTION
* Planning a collection
* Predicting trends
* Choosing a theme
DESIGNING A GARMENT
* The design
* Making a toile
* Making a card pattern
* The finished dress.
* Development team
* Designers/Sample developers,
* Customers/Clients,
* Textile technologists
* Garment technologists
* Packing & Dispatch,
* Sourcing &Purchasing,
* Costing & Finance,
* Sales & Marketing,
* Production team, Planning
* Control & Testing
* Quality control
SAMPLING PROCESS
The process of sample department varies from context to context, and the development
process covers a wide range of diverse products from new fibers, fiber blends, new yarns,
fabric structures ,finishes and surface effects and all types of made up products such as
knitwear, hosiery, cut and sewn garments, household products, technical and medical
products. There are different phases of sampling; the first phase covers the development of
the initial concept or design idea through its approval by the customer and full review/risk
analysis by the development and production teams.
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Conclusion
The suggestive solutions provided through this Japanese 5S System application in the sample
section of apparel industry reflected as a great effective tool for smooth sample production
and dispatch with better quality sample. Hence, also an excellent relation builds up with the
buyer side and thus a better scope to have more production order for the apparel industry
which is highly expected from manufacturers side. The Japanese 5S System is a very
important system for ensuring systematic discipline. Moreover, this is a world-wide
acceptable formula which helps in a great deal in solving the managerial level problems. This
system is already globally recognized and gained huge fame by improving Productivity,
Quality and Safety at work. Many people have applied it everywhere including Houses,
Offices, Educational Institutions, Hospitals, Restaurants, etc. and became successful at
overall management at their respective fields. So, everybody should implement 5S at every
possible section of their day to day life and of course in the apparel industry sample section.
The merchandiser has to consider all the quality parameters related to the samples to be
developed in case of non-conformities in the sample developed. Revised samples may be
sending for approval purpose. It is the duty of the merchandiser to dispatch the developed
samples on the time to the concerned buyers.
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