FINALS

Maulion, Frans Dunzel M. 2/M Del Rosario

MT11-A1 SEA 101

Anchoring:
Using the boats own tackle (ie: anchor plus chain/warp) to temporarily stop somewhere. The process
involves picking an appropriate spot (somewhere sheltered, taking into consideration wind direction, sea
state, etc, as well as rise/fall of the tide and so on), then deciding how much anchor chain to lay out. The
normal recommended minimums are 4x max depth where chain-only is used and 6x max depth where a
mix of chain and warp are used. The required length of chain/warp is laid out ("flaked out") on the deck in
a such a manner that it will run freely when the anchor is lowered. The end is secured to the windlass on
deck.

The chosen spot is approached - normally into the tide, although wind is also a consideration. This allows
for maximum maneouverability with the lowest boat speed. Most people anchor under power - pure
laziness, its easier than doing it under sail. The boat is brought to a stop and the anchor lowered (NOT
dropped) into the water. Cmmunication between foredeck crew and helmsman is key here. The anchor
rests on the seabed (the crew can often tell when it touches, and it is useful for the helmsman to know)
and the boat is allowed to drift back on the tide, whilst the crew pays out the remiaining chain/warp. I
normally use the engine to dig the anchor in better if staying for any length of time.

Mooring:
This involves tying the boat to a buoy in the water. The buoy is attached by a chain to some form of
ground tackle - normally a concrete block. There is normally a short line attached to the top of the buoy,
with a float on the other end. Moorings are commonly used in rivers or harbours where space is limited
and are permanent or semi-permanent arrangements - in many places, visitor moorings are often
removed over the winter season. Moorings can be hired/purchased for long-term "parking" of a boat -
much cheaper than a marina berth.

There are various techniques, but all involve an approach into tide (as for anchoring), unless there is
significant wind. Again, most people do it under power for reasons of pure convenience. The boat must
be stopped alongside the buoy long enough for the crew to attach the boat to the buoy - this can be tricky
when there is any significant wind!

The way most people seem to do it is to get a crew hanging over the pulpit with a boat hook, trying to pick
up the line/float. They then faff around attempting to pull the line onto a cleat on the deck. Once this is
done, its worth attaching your own line to the buoy, so that you're not relying entirely on some old worn bit
of rope like it so often is!

My preferred technique (and certainly much easier when there is any significand wind) is to lassoo the
buoy - actually easier than it sounds. Get a nice long line - one that doesn't float. Both ends are then led
through the forward fairleads and attached to cleats on the foredeck, leaving a big loop. The crew then
coils up the rope, splits the coil in half and stands at the pulpit. The buoy is approached slowly and when
close enough, the crew simply throws the coils forwards and outwards, beyond the buoy; the line sinks
underneath the buoy, and the slack is pulled through from the deck and made off on a cleat. You now
have all the time in the world to attach a line to the buoy.

The great thing about this technique is that there is no need to hold the boat in position for any length of
time - you just need to get close enough for the crew to lassoo the buoy.
 FINALS
SEA 101

Maulion, Frans Dunzel M. 2/M Del Rosario

MT11-A1 SEA 101