Model Car Builder 1

CONTENTS
Vol 3 / Issue No.5
SUMMER 2017
Publisher/Editor
Roy R. Sorenson
Marketing Manager
Lynne Sorenson
Copy Editor
Neil Van Zile

Order Additional Copies at:

www.ModelCarBuildermag.com
Model Car Builder is published bi-monthly by
HC Publications, PO Box 20144., Castro Valley, CA 94546.
E-mail: HCPublications@att.net

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PAGE 6
postage. MCB cannot be held responsible for unsolicited contributions while in the
mail or in our care. Please e-mail the publisher at the above address before sending any Revells latest kit is a winner!
materials. Sorry, but we do not have the money to pay for contributions at this time. We
reserve the right to refuse any contribution.

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PAGE 12
PAGE 4 Not another IPMS show??

Editors
Workbench
2 Model Car Builder
 PAGE 18
Teresi scratchbuilding skills are amazing!

PAGE 30
Tale of Two Porches

We

finish

the 918

PAGE 36
The Speedway Museum
is off the hook!

and were just going to

show you the model car
stuff!

Model Car Builder 3

 EDITORS
WORKBENCH

I t was on my bucket list; its one of those

trips that when you tell people what youre
going to do they say, Wow, Ive always
wanted to do that! And I dont blame
them; its something Ive always wanted to
do too! We traveled through ten different
states in just twelve days, we put over 5,500
miles on our new Chevy Volt.
They call it the Mother Road but to us
car guys its known simply as Route 66.
It is beyond a doubt the best gear head
vacation one could think of! The route is
lined with car museums, old gas stations,
and automobilia that would last you a life
time. If you read our sister publication
HOT CARS you will be seeing a lot of our
trip popping up in its pages over the next
year. In fact the last issue already featured a
story on the Unser Racing Museum in Al-
buquerque, NM (see photos to the right).
The Unser museum features a ton of cool
racing cars. Remember, the Unsers were
heavily involved in several types of motor-
sports; off road, sprint car, Pikes Peak, and
of course, Indy Car racing.
When Im traveling I always have my
eyes open for scale models on display. The
Unser museum had some very interesting
subjects on display. The first being the large
scale Marlboro Indy Car pictured to the
right. If you remember these cars domi-
nated the Indy racing for several years, and
theres good reason for that. This was one
of the first scale (Indy Car) models to be
used in wind tunnel testing! They learned
a lot about downforce and how the air
traveled over the car, long before it got to
the track!
The next picture down is just some of the
scale models in the huge trophy room. It
4 Model Car Builder
seems that every time you win the Indy
500 you are presented with a scale model of
your winning car. Pretty dang cool!
The other cool collection of models was in
the Pontiac/Oakland Automobile museum
in Pontiac, IL. This museum features a
great selection of GTOs, vintage Pontiacs,
Tempest, Fieros, etc..
But their reference library was amaz-
ing. But not just because of the TON of
reference material they had on hand. look
closely at the pictures to the left. The two
top shelves of the library are lined with
every kind of Pontiac model kit you can
think of!
Both museums were great! I highly
recommend stopping at both of them. Just
plan on spending a lot of time at both of
them!

Unser Racing Museum

Located at the Unser
Discovery Campus
1776 Montao Road NW
Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM
87107
Phone (505) 341-1776

www.unserracingmuseum.com

Pontiac - Oakland Museum

and Resource Center
205 N. Mill Street
Pontiac, IL 61764
Phone: 815-842-2345

www.pontiacoaklandmuseum.org

BELOW: Our Chevy Volt served us well,

5,500 miles at 45 to 50 miles per gallon!

Model Car Builder 5

6 Model Car Builder
ABOVE: OK guys, this is the only serious flaw I found in the whole kit! The front of the fender on the passengers is a little misaligned. But a
little work with a round file and a sanding stick and it was gone! The parting seams on this kits body are hard to find! We removed the few we
could find, wet sanded the body with 2000 grit paper, washed it, rinsed it, and then let it dry overnight. The next day I shot evrything with two
thin coats, and one thick coat of Model Master Custom Spray Enamel Classic Black (2921). Turned out great, so I left it alone (no polishing).

ABOVE: The interior was painted in gray primer, and the kit decals ABOVE: Dont forget to paint the headliner and the sunvisors that
applied then everything got a coat of Testors Dullcoat. After that other are molded to the clear windshield. The front and rear glass fits like a
areas were hand painted gloss black. Does anyone have any idea what glove. I snapped them in place and tacked them down with clear epoxy.
that piece under the glove box is for (red arrow)?

BELOW: I love the fact that most of the copyright raised lettering is in BELOW: The molded-in gas and brake pedal are fine since theyre
spots that get covered up (see red arrow)! Thank you Revell. The box, barely visible in the completed truck but when I do the detailed version
tail gate, and fenders are all one piece, and slip over the floor. A decal of the truck theyll be replaced with aftermarket pieces.
is used to simulate the wood bed and steel bed rails.

Model Car Builder 7

ABOVE: The kits chassis goes together easily, but modelers are complaining about the steel axle on the front end. My thought is that Revell did
this to make it easier for younger modelers. They also went with the rear axle glued to the frame, like in their Ford Coupe and roadster kits.
Exhaust was painted in steel, then the mufflers are covered in Liquid Chrome.

ABOVE: The brake rotors have finely molded in vents and cross drilled
markings, so you almost have to airbrush the silver paint on. If you
try to brush paint on, straight out of the jar, then this detail would be
lost in the thicker paint. Revell supplies FOOSE decals for the brake
calipers, but theyre beige in color and disappear on the black calipers.
ABOVE: Dont forget the coil at the back of the manifold (red arrow)!
Notice that the top of the coil and the top of the distributor are both
painted gray. This is an old trick to tie the two components together.
The filter on the air cleaner was painted Tamiya Flat Red, then washed
with Tamiya Smoke. Matches the real filter really well.

ABOVE: One of the best looking Holley carbs Ive seen in a kit. ABOVE: Front drive pulley belt is simple, and is much thinner than
most of the kit belts you see! Good job Revell!
8 Model Car Builder
ABOVE: I know a lot of modelers are going to sand that molded-in FOOSE off the rear tailgate. But since this is a box stock build we left it
on.
BELOW: Theres no doubt that this truck chassis is going to find its way under a lot of different truck projects. In the next issue of Model Car
Builder well show you how to up the detail on this great chassis.

Model Car Builder 9

 R ecently a reader asked me why I
didnt spend more time detailing the
models I build in Model Car Builder? The
answer is simple, I want the reader to see
exactly what he or she is getting in the
latest kit. So if Im building a new release
strictly box stock you can think of it as
a kit review.
The thing is, I hate counting parts,
comparing the new release to the old re-
lease, or doing a complete history on the
car (or truck) were building for review.
Instead Ill let the photos and construc-
tion tips give you a good idea of what
comes in a new kit. I hope that clears it
up. With that said, lets look at Revells
latest kit.
It was a great idea; Chip Foose &
Revell team up, they ask modelers What
ABOVE: I wasnt paying attention and mounted the valve covers on the wrong side. I was
Foose car or truck would you like to see
lucky enough to be able to pop them off and re-glue them, but, not until after I had applied the
released? This is one of the trucks that
ROUSH decals. So unfortunately, they are forever upside down! Just remember you want the
got the most votes. Now lets make this
valve cover caps sitting on the very top of the valve cover.
perfectly clear, this is an ALL NEW tool-
ing of Chips truck! Testors gloss enamel would be the easiest better yet, they scream out to be detailed
The truck, (or should I say the kit?), way to do the paint. The gloss enamel even more! In the next issue Im going to
goes together beautifully. Its one of the paint means you Detail Out this kit. So let me
best engineered kits Ive built in a long dont have to wet know what should be done to
time! This is another one of those kits sand or polish. trick out this truck?
that would be perfect for the young, nov- Believe it or not, A lot of modelers are saying
ice modeler who wants to go from snap this paint job is this is Revells Kit of the Year,
kits to a glue together kit. The adult mod- good old Testors and I might agree, except I ha-
eler wont like the steel axles, but they are classic black. No vent seen the Foose Cadillac
well hidden, and they make construction gloss coat, no Custom kit yet.
easier. polishing. If you havent been to your
The one piece box/rear fenders do The motor, local hobby shop to buy one of
make construction easier, but makes chassis, and drivetrain seem rather these kits, run down and buy at least one...
painting the bed harder. I decided that a simple, yet have a lot of detail. But even ....one CASE that is!

ABOVE: After trimming the bumpers and grille from the chrome tree, I touched them up with a Liquid Chrome pen. The turn signals on the
front grille were given a coat of Tamiyas Clear Orange ( X-26). The taillights are pop-in kit pieces. For a little added realism I cut the FOOSED
license plate and applied it to the bumpers molded in plate. You end up with a raised letters plate. Purdy cool.
OPPOSITE PAGE: The Foose illustration from the decal sheet was applied to a piece of sheet plastic. The wheels should have their spokes painted
a dark gray, but I just couldnt bring myself to do it! The chrome wheels pop against the black truck!

10 Model Car Builder

Model Car Builder 11
 2017 SAN DIEGO IPMS MODEL CAR EXPO
SAN DIEGO AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM
Gillespie Field Annex, El Cajon, California

ABOVE: This beautiful 1989 XJR 9 LM Jaguar comes from the workbench of Dany Galgani. The Tamiya Kit is fully detailed with scratchbuilt
fuel and oil lines. ALCAD Metalizer lacquer paint was used throughout this fine build.

RIGHT: This 1/25 Revell box stock build,

by Glenn Day, of the 1967 Camaro SS just
looks GREAT! Automotive Ash Gold paint
was used.

12 Model Car Builder

 ABOVE: If you prefer large scale, this build by Glen Day is impeccable. This 1/12
scale Camaro is box stock and built to perfection! It goes to show that you that you
dont need lots of bling!

BELOW & RIGHT: Dennis Lee Gerber from El Cajon,

California built what I feel is one of the most iconic race
cars in history, the Gulf Oil 917 Porsche. His subtle use
of aftermarket parts is not overdone on this six month
build.

Model Car Builder 13

 ABOVE: When is the last time you built a
model of a 1958 four door Oldsmobile 98?
Glen Day did a nice job bringing this Pro Kit
model to life.

LEFT: This beautiful build by Dennis of this

white Porsche is not painted. It is polished,
with decals added, with airbrushed red and
blue, and about ten coats of gloss. All of this
took about three months to build.

RIGHT: The AMT 1/25

scale Lawman Super Stock
Car is a legend. David
Dale did a nice job on this
replica in a two month
build. This build is nicely
painted with loads of
details.

14 Model Car Builder

ABOVE: Bruce Snyders 1/16 replica of Don Prudhommes 1988 U.S. Army Revell Funny Car is box stock and a great piece to look at. This model
was painted in House of Color Candy Apple Red.

ABOVE: Bruce Snyders 1/25 AMT Arnie the Farmer Beswick Ramp Truck with a Revell 1962 Pontiac Drag Car is a very nicely arranged set
up. This was a four week build using Tamiya Fluorescent Red with Orange Clear paint.

RIGHT: Glenn Days build of this 1/25 scale

Moebius old school 1965 Mercury Comet is
accurate in every way. Lots of chrome foil was
used in this build.

Model Car Builder 15

ABOVE & BELOW: True to the great lines of the first car this 1/25 scale
model of the Shelby GT 350 carries on the Shelby racing heritage. Bruce
Snyder did a magnificent job on this GT.

ABOVE: Glenn Day did a nice job on this rare vintage JoHan 1966
Caddy box stock Fire Rescue Ambulance. The entire build was chrome
foiled. Glen used Tamiya paints to finish off this two week build.

RIGHT: Mel Hawkinson took a 1/25 scale AMT 1957 Chevy Bel Air,
gave it a nice coat of Tamiya Red, Gray, and White paint, added after-
market wheels and tires, and presented a perfect build.
16 Model Car Builder
 ABOVE: This 1/25 scale AMT 1960 Pontiac
was painted with Ed Roth Cherry Pie. Three
kits were used to put the interior together.
The door handles, trim, and body lines were
shaved to create this great look. Several
scratchbuilt parts were utilized on this three
month build by Mark Chan.

LEFT: Mark McGuire took a 1/25 scale Revell

1930 Ford Coup 2-in-1 kit and built it box
stock using Tamiya Metal Flake Silver with
Tamiya Candy Red overcoat and presented
an absolutely stunning vehicle to display. This
was a three week build

BELOW: This 1/25 AMT 1960 Pontiac Bonneville was built by Mark
Chan using hardware store brown paint, weathered, with interior to
match his personal 1:1 car. This was a six week build.

ABOVE: This stunning Tamiya Metal Flake Silver with Candy Red
overcoat has you seeing miles deep of fine-looking red. This 1/25
scale 1930 Ford Coupe built by Mark McGuire sits on parts box
wheels and tires

Model Car Builder 17

 This is a 1/8th scale replica of my father, Joe BELOW: This is a recent picture of my father; Joe Teresi, on the right and Uncle Mil Blair on the left.
They are alongside of the 1:1 Italiano that Mil restored a few years ago. (Note the front end is different
Teresi, and Uncle Mil Blairs Italiano Buick on the restored version.) I wanted to use the original front end on my build. Now, my Italiano sits
V8 Drag Bike. Its powered by a 1963 Buick V8. displayed in the Easyriders Saloon In Sturgis.
The bike was featured in the April 1966 edition
of Modern Cycle magazine. My father ran this
bike for a few months at Lions Drag Strip in the
mid 60s. He decided to buy two Buick 215 alu-
minum block engines from Mickey Thompson,
who had used them in his Indy car around the
same time. One of the engines was a backup
engine for Mickeys Indy car. Dad wanted to
use them because the light weight of the engine
would let him get more horsepower. He got a
top speed of 156 MPH using the new engines!
That was pretty good in those days on gas. My
father and Uncle Mil thought about using fuel,
but that might have been too much to handle.
So, they really dont know what kind of horse-
power and speed they could have reached.

I built three 1/25 scratch built replicas of this

bike years ago; one, for my dad, one for Uncle
Mil, and one for me. For this build, I wanted to
make replicas of this amazing bike in 1/8 scale
with all the full detail you can achieve in that
scale.
(Continued on page 28)

18 Model Car Builder

ABOVE: I found a 1/8th scale Small Block Chevy engine and a 1/8th scale ABOVE: I started cutting up the small block Chevy engine to convert it into
drag bike slick/front end. I used these as inspiration to see what direction I a 215 Buick V8 engine with a sump pan on the bottom of the block. Then the
wanted to go with this build. The 66 Edition of Modern Cycle magazine was drive train will need to be converted.
used for reference.

ABOVE: Here you can see that I started to modify the front side of the engine. ABOVE: In this picture I cut the frame up using only the neck and the front
down tubes. I scratchbuilt the rear section of the frame to resemble a Harley
Davidson rigid tail. I had to make some mods to cradle that huge engine. I
also stripped the kits chrome off the front forks. They will be cleaned of parting
seams and ejection pin marks, then covered in Alclad metalizer.
LEFT: The front forks had to be shortened to get the right ride height. I used a 19 inch Revell front
tire and rim.

BELOW: Here you can see the rear of the frame has been scratchbuilt with chain adjuster mounts,
tabs, and motor mounts added. The rear wheel has been re-laced with wire and nipples for a more
realistic appearance. More on that on the page 22.

Model Car Builder 19

20 Model Car Builder
Model Car Builder 21
SPEAKING SPOKES...

ABOVE LEFT: To lace my own wheels I used some K&S Precision Metals music wire, I dont remember the size, but it is as thick a straight pin. The nipples on
each spoke are Beadlon crimp beads that I picked up at Michaels Arts & Craft stores. Tools include wire cutters, a vise drill, and a couple of files. I started with
the front wheel (two halves per wheel). First I took one half of the wheel and cut out the plastic spokes and hub. I filled the nubs all the way down to the rim,
then drilled holes where the spokes were (did the same thing to the hub).Without cutting the spokes from the second half of the wheel I used white glue to glue
it to my first half. Then I measured the size of the spokes that I would need. I glued each spoke reversed from the other side of the wheel. Then I carefully pulled
the wheel half off and cut the spokes and drilled it just like the first half. ABOVE RIGHT: This is one half of the wheel finished and separated from the other
half of the wheel (that hasnt been done yet).

ABOVE: This shows how I put each individual spoke in place. ABOVE: The two completed half s before being glued together.

ABOVE: The completed rim. I added a valve stem. ABOVE: Added the weathered and painted tire. Looks great, time to do the
back wheel and tire.
22 Model Car Builder
ABOVE: I laced the rear wheel the same way I did the front. Once again I ABOVE: With the weathered & painted tire in place its ready to go on the
added a valve stem (plus a wheel weight). bike for mocking up the chain drive, fender, etc.

ABOVE: With the rear wheel in place I was able to make the rear fender and ABOVE: This also meant that I could now lengthen the chain and modify
support bracket. the rear brake drum.

LEFT: The front end is mocked up and handlebars made from spare parts.

ABOVE: With the front and rear wheels and tires in place, I was happy with the stance of the
bike. Now it was time to get serious about the drivetrain!
Model Car Builder 23
ABOVE: I made a gas tank by using two of Paul Rowes resin cast fire bottles. The bottles were cut in half and the two bottom sections glued together to make the
tank. Styrene was used for the filler tubes and caps. ABOVE RIGHT: I used Archer Resin weld beads to add realism to the gas tank. I painted the gas tank black
with a clear coat, then added the weld beads (see the Winter 2015, Issue #18 for more tips on using Archer weld beads), and then covered it all with Alclad. The
Alclad went over the resin/decals with no problem. Then I lightly weathered it and topped it off with a watch wind knob that came from a bunch watch parts
that good buddy Art Laski gave me.

ABOVE: I wound some thin wire around a straight pin to make the hold down ABOVE: I scratchbuilt a brake master cylinder and modified a kit brake rotor.
springs.

ABOVE: Sheet styrene was used to block off the back of the motor, and to ABOVE: I ended up buying some Shapeways S.B. Chevy 3D printed valve
make the clutch and chain guards. I modified some gears and kit parts to covers. I had to cut them, angle them slightly, and remove some of the fins to
make the clutch drive drain. Small block Chevy valve covers are test fitted to replicate the Buick valve covers. The valley cover, manifold, and exhaust pipes
the motor. are scratchbuilt from styrene.

24 Model Car Builder

ABOVE: Front pipes were built and added. Started to add small details to the ABOVE: A lot of scratchbuilt pieces go on the front of the motor. The oil filter
motor to replicate the Buick 215. is another Paul Rowe resin cast fire bottle.

ABOVE: The seat and back bone tube cover was made by cutting styrene in ABOVE: I used Acrylic Red paint, Meng nut & bolt ends (gray, flat piece with
diamond shapes and glueing each one into place. It was the only way I could rows of cast nut & bolts), Revell 1/16th scale vinyl tubing, and some wire to
replicate the diamond stitch in this scale. A lot of work but I was happy with make the spark plug boots & wires.
the final product.

ABOVE: This shows how the bigger tubing was used to make the spark plug ABOVE: In this picture you can see the Meng nut & bolt ends that I drilled out
boots. for the spark plug nut, and then white styrene for the plugs porcelain. Once
again, different sizes of tubing were used to make the boots.

Model Car Builder 25

ABOVE: The engine is painted in Alclad and lightly weathered with a wash of ABOVE: The frame was painted with Scalefinishes.com Oldsmobile 85 Chest-
Folk Art black and dark gray acrylic paint. You can buy a bottle of this paint nut Bronze, with a clear coat. I used Bare-Metal Foil for the bearing cups on
at Michaels for less then a dollar, and it lasts a long time! Spark plug wires are the neck of the frame (arrows).
marked for the correct placement for the Buick firing order.

ABOVE: I made a clutch pack and clutch shroud. I used styrene for the shroud ABOVE: This is the bottom of the dry sump. I used Meng nuts & bolts to detail
and painted it with Alclad. The clutch plates are aluminum sheets that I cut it. Painted in Alclad and slightly weathered.
and filed into circles, then drilled holes in them. The clutch plates are actually
Dremel cutting blades that I filed into the proper diameter as well. The pres-
sure plate is made from spare parts box pieces with misc. nuts and screws.

ABOVE: The battery is scratchbuilt using clear styrene, white styrene, alumi-
num sheet. The battery caps are actually small bolts I found at a train store
(and painted red). The hold down straps are aluminum sheet, the vent tube is
ABOVE:This is the clutch and clutch adjustment plate (white arrow) that I
ProTech black spark plug wire, and rubber fuel lines for the battery cables. The
scratchbuilt using styrene tubing/sheet (painted in Tamiya gold), aluminum
battery terminals are photo etch throttle linkage pieces. I mixed some some
sheet, and 99 Cent Store tubing. I also scratched the breathers at the base of
Folk Art Acrylic Brown paint and Tamiya clear and poured it into the clear
the motor (small yellow arrows) and added several wire looms for the spark
acrylic box. GWS Decals custom made all the decals on the bike, including the
plug wires (red arrow).
battery decal shown here.
26 Model Car Builder
ABOVE: These are Shapeways 3D printed Carter Carburetors. I did some big time mod- ABOVE: I made some air cleaners out of 1/25th scale Model Car
ifications to them and painted them in Tamiya Gold. I Scratchbuilt throttle linkage and Garage air cleaners. 1/25th scale inner wheel rims were used to
brackets. make them a bigger diameter, and I painted them in Alclad. Some
copper screen and Pro-Tech nuts help add to the detail.

ABOVE: With the front end modifications done, it was given a coat of Alclad. Handlebars are painted in Tamiya Gold while the grips are painted in Folk Art
acrylic black and weathered with Country Gray to give them a rubber look. I added a Top Studio (machined aluminum) toggle switch (red arrow) and Pro-Tech
rubber fuel line for the throttle cable.

ABOVE: Seat is painted with Game Air Vallejo Burned Flesh Ready Mixed airbrush paint. 99
Cent store tubing was used for the seat pipping. Pro-Tech braided line was used for the plumbing
in combination with RB Motion A/N fittings painted with Tamiya Clear red or blue paint. RB
Motion machined aluminum rod ends throttle linkage, and rear master cylinder/brake pedal
linkage. Pro-Tech T fittings (white arrow) were used on the bike as well. Vacuum, water, and
oil pressure (red arrow) gauges can be found on the motor. Gauges are from SLIXX Decals.
ABOVE: The coil is made from styrene tubing, and the
bracket from sheet aluminum. The petcock for the fuel line is
styrene and Pro-Tech nuts & bolts. The fuel pump is scratch-
built from styrene as well. The pipes are blued with Tamiya
clear blue, red, & yellow.
Model Car Builder 27
 (Continued from page 18)
My father would take me to Lions Drag Strip
every weekend to watch him race this bike. I
grew up around drag bikes/cars and just loved
every minute of it. Such great memories!
Thank you Dad, this model is
dedicated to you!

28 Model Car Builder

Model Car Builder 29
 THE TALE
OF TWO
PORSCHES
A s we finish up our Porsche project,
one thing comes to mind. I had read other
reviews that said you should just leave the
motor on an engine stand, rather than
have it in the completed model. At first I
thought they were crazy, but now that Ive
completed the model, they may be right!
For my second version of this car, I just
might leave the motor out.
The rest of the car went together rather
ABOVE: If you want to add spark plug wires (or is it coil wires), this is where you would drill
well. The only problem I ran into was put-
the valve covers and glue in the wire. Paint the plug covers semi-gloss black.
ting the main body on the chassis. I didnt
have the interior tub position in the right
place. Were talking just a hair off. So a little
grinding with the Dremel was necessary.
A few trial fits, a little more grinding here
and there, and I got it to sit down perfectly.
Take your time trial fitting the nose and
tail as well. Where the spoiler slides into
the tail piece, make sure it goes all the way
in and sits flush with the body.
Its been a great experience building the
Porsche 916/6 and this awesome 918. Defi-
nitely two different ends of the spectrum,
that will give you a great appreciation for
todays super cars! ABOVE: We blued our headers using the Tamiya Weathering Master pastels. But the headers
just about disappear on this unique motor!
30 Model Car Builder
ABOVE: And here is the reason those exhaust headers disappear! The mufflers cover them up! I painted (all) the exhaust in aluminum metaliz-
er. Then the mufflers were covered in Tamiya Clear Yellow. The large collector pipes were washed with the Tamiya Smoke.

BELOW: To add the black to the kits chrome wheels I came up with this little trick: Apply some Tamiya semi-gloss black to three or four sections
at a time, then use your finger (or damp paper towel) to wipe off the raised areas (spokes) of the wheel. Take your time, and you might need to
go back and do a little touch up, but it looks great when youre done. To finish up the wheels we added valve stems (red arrow) and the center
cap decal provided in the kit.

Model Car Builder 31

ABOVE: My one bad mistake. I tried to use a piece of 15 year old carbon fiber decal paper from Modelers! My bad, shouldve of ordered new
sheet from Scale Motorsport! The old decal split and broke up. But since most of this gets covered up with body work, I patched it together and
covered it in Testors High Gloss. Pay close attention to how the tail pipes mount--double check the instruction sheet---and trial fit before glue.

RIGHT: Revell chose to rep-

licate the complicated, curvy,
screen covering the back of the
car with clear plastic covered
in a decal sheet. If you look at
the photos, the kit piece does a
pretty good job of replicating
the real piece.
But I didnt think it looked
right for a detailed-out model.
So I ordered this photoetch
piece from Plamoz Detail Up
parts. I ordered this kit from
Hiroboy.com, part no. PL-
E24006, 1/24 918 Rear Hatch.
Im thinking about saving this
piece for the race car version
of this kit I will build next,
and to tell you the truth, Im
thinking about ordering a
second one, because I know
Im going to screw this one up
big time! Ill let you know how
it goes in a future issue.

32 Model Car Builder

ABOVE: When it comes time to put the nose and tail on the car, I have two words of advice; TEST FIT! When I added the photoetch screens,
they needed a little trimming, and make sure the rear spoiler mounts are pushed all the way back into the tail section. Just make sure you test fit
before even thinking about applying glue!

ABOVE: I decided to go with a beige interior.

I just noticed that the windshield isnt seated
properly along the top edge. The great thing
about close-up photography is that it will
catch things that the human eye will miss.

LEFT: I found these painter pens at Hobby

Lobby while searching for Liquid Chrome
pens. They work great for late model cars with
black window trim.

Model Car Builder 33

34 Model Car Builder
 PRINTED COPIES $10.00 Each
PLUS POSTAGE (that takes forever & costs $$$)
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love ALL forms of
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Model Car Builder 35
 T he Museum of American Speed in
Lincoln, Nebraska, is a non-profit corpora-
tion founded in 1992 by Speedy Bill and
Joyce Smith. This 150,000 sq. ft. muse-
um was formed to present a continuous
chronology of automotive Racing Engine
and Speed Equipment development....
also to preserve, interpret, and display
items significant in racing and automotive
history. The collection results from the
Smiths personal involvement in racing
and hot rodding, and their lifelong passion
for collecting and preserving racing and
automotive history.
Thats how their website describes it. To
put it into one word, this place is AMAZ-
ING! We only got to spend a couple of
hours there, but when I went to leave, I
told the curator You guys have a national
treasure here! Three floors of jaw drop-
ping automotive racing history.
If you would like to see more of this great Museum of American Speed
museum, then order HOT CARS maga-
zine, issue #31 that will be out at the end of
599 Oak Creek Drive
August. But the real surprise is on the top Lincoln, NE 68528
floor of the museum. Its filled with pedal
cars, tether cars, die cast cars, tin cars, 402-323-3166
metal toy cars, and yes, even some model
cars.
But the dioramas really caught my eye! www.museumofamerican-
Some really beautiful, large, nicely done
dioramas in showcases. So I thought I
speed.com
would spotlight my two favorites for ev-
eryone to see.
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