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BERLIN

TO SEE
TO DO
TO EAT

1
CONTENTS
LANDMARKS
TO SEE
Reichstag
Brandenburg Gate
Hedwigs Cathedral
Checkpoint Charlie
Victory Column
Berliner Dom
Alexanderplatz
TV Tower
Olympic Stadium
Potsdams Sansoucci Park

MEMORIALS
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
Memorial to the Homosexuals
Bibliothek Memorial
A Closer Look: How Berlin remembers WW2
CITYarts Peace Wall
Berlin Wall Memorial
The Soviet War Memorial
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church

ARCHITECTURE Karl Marx Alllee


Unter Den Liden

PARKS Tiergarten
Landwehr Canal
Treptower Park
TO DO

Schloss Charlottenberg Palace Gardens

MUSEUMS
The Neues Museum
Anne Frank: Here and Now
Stasi Museum
The Jewish Museum
The Deutches History Museum

ART GALLERIES
East Side Gallery
Alte Nationalgalerie
Berlinische Galerie
House of World Cultures

2
Hamburger Bahnhof Gallery
KW Institute for Contemporary Arts
Koenig Galerie

SHOPPING
Mauerpark
Humana Second Hand and Vintage
Kurfurstendamm

TO DO
Neukolln Fleamarket
Kleidermarkt Garage
Do You Read Me?!
Fassbender & Rausch

ALTERNATIVE Liquidrom
Tropical Islands
Scharwzlicht Black Light Mini Golf
Bearpit Karaoke
Syrian Refugee
Bowie Tour of Berlin
Kinos of Berlin
Turkish Market

CAFES Shakespeare & Sons


The Barn Coffee
Silo Coffee
Cafe im Literaurhaus
Cafe Kranzler
Coffee Fellows
Bonzana Coffee Roasters

RESTAURANTS
Standard Pizza
Chupenga
Madami Moms Vietnamese Kitchen
Brauhaus
Burgers of Berlin: The Holy Trinity
Machete
TO EAT
Galeria Gourmet
Chutnify

QUIRKY
EATS Yoyo Foodwold
Goodies
Markethalle Neun Streetfood
A Vegans Guide to Berlin

BARS Roses
Klunkerkrancih
Augustiner Keller
Roses
Nemo
Prater Biergaten
The Teehaus im Englischen Garten

3
Introduction
INTRODUCTION

TO SEE
Split up in to three easy alent nature of Berlin is
to read chapters, this
guide fills you in on how
introduction what has made it such
a diverse and remarka-

TO DO
best to explore, experi- ble city to visit. The wide
ence and dine in Berlin. scope of reviews here
aims to provide all the

TO EAT
One of Europes most information you need to
exciting cities, Berlin know when staying in
proudly boasts a dynam- what David Bowie once
ic art scene, a fusion tural hub. Soviet Memo- called, the greatest cul-
of iconic architectural rials exist alongside old tural extravaganza that
styles and of course, its American Army Check- one could imagine.
position as the spiritual points and Prussian pal-
homeland of techno. aces dominate the land- The guide is a useful
scape on the outskirts tool for helping you to
Encompassing a varied of a metropolis that later discover the city, with
history, Berlin has be- favoured Communist ar- the three main chapters
come a fascinating cul- chitecture. The ambiv- providing easy reading

4

Emmi Harris

Featured in this guide are


on things To See, To Do
some of Berlins more quirky
and To Eat simply skip
haunts, including reviews on
to the desired chapter to
Bearpit Karaoke expect
read reviews on Berlins
to see some epic singing at
most famous, and occa-
this outdoor amphitheater, or
sionally lesser known,
Liquidrom think swimming
attractions and eater-
in the dark salt water pools
ies. Smaller subsec-
whilst listening to techno mu-
tions such as The Sur-
sic. Berlin truly is a city that
vival Guide, History and
has something for everyone.
Transport are there to
help you plan your way
Hab eine schne Reise!
around the city, under-
stand important histori-
cal context or learn some
useful phrases and cul-
tural references to help
you through your visit.

5
HISTORY Kieran Gale and Tyler Nevins

Everywhere you look in Berlin you are duced equipment for his army. Today,
constantly reminded of its turbulent past. his success is recognized by a large
It was in 1415 that the city was first for- statue which can be found in Tiergarten.
mally recognised, after Frederick the
Elector of the Hohenzollern family be- 1918 and the Germans had just suf-
came the first leader of the unified state. fered a crushing defeat in the Great War.
German currency inflated to unseen
Fast forward to 1740. Frederick II, known heights as the populous fell into a peri-
as Frederick the Great, ascended to the od of economic misery. The new dem-
throne of the Prussian Empire. Freder- ocratic government was already at risk
ick led several successful military cam- of collapse due to pressure from radical
paigns but despite all his prowess his political movements, however, by uti-
legacy lies in his relationship with the lizing loans from American banks Gus-
humanities. Berlin became a beacon of tav Streseman stabilized the economy.
Enlightenment thinking and that tradition 1924-28 became known as the Golden
has been carried through to modern day. Years and artists, musicians and authors
alike thrived in what was now the most
The century following Fredricks rule was liberal city in the world. The impact of the
one of massive upheaval and change Golden Years can still be seen today as
for Berlin. Otto von Bismarck unified Berlins cultural scene is unavoidable.
the German states and made Berlin the
capital. The city flourished under his rule The 1930s saw the rise to power of Ado-
and factories in the industrial district pro- lf Hitler. His Nazi party painted a glorious

6 6
utopian vision of a German Empire, unit-
ed under his rule. In 1939 Hitler plunged
the world into chaos by initiating World
War Two. Hitler was destined for failure
however as the Third Reich could not
outlast the sheer strength and numbers
of the Allied powers. On 2 May, the Ger-
mans issued an unconditional surrender
bringing the war in Europe to an end. It
was then decided that Berlin was to be
split. Post-war jurisdiction of the East was
entrusted to the Russians and the West
to the Americans, British and French.

For the next 45 years, Berlin remained


fractured. The disparity of living con-
ditions between East and West Berlin
led to the migration of thousands from
the Russian zone to the Allied zone.
In 1961 the U.S.S.R decided to clamp Germany. It wasnt until 1989 that this di-
down upon the mass migration, and vide was ended, with the wall slowly re-
built the Berlin Wall. This wall circled moved from Berlins cityscape. Today, the
the entirety of west Berlin, separating wall features in several museums and is
it from both East Berlin and Eastern the centrepiece of the East Side Gallery.

After the removal of the wall, Berlin be-


gan an extensive process of repair. This
process is ongoing, and the disparity be-
tween East and West is still very much
tangible today. While the West boasts
architecturally appeasing streets, the
East is still somewhat underdeveloped.
But for all the inequality that is still seen
decades after the fall of the wall, Berlins
wealth of history and political activism
continues to attract creatives from all over
the world. Arts, music, architecture, and
technology: Berlin has a certain appeal
that gives it international magnetism. The
winding tale of Berlin is far from finished,
and a new chapter has only just begun.

77
Rachael Daly and Amy Finn

Travelling to Berlin by car Travelling to Berlin by plane

One of the most exciting ways to travel to Ber- Berlin can be reached by the majority of inter-
lin is by car along the Autobahn with its lack national airports. Many other smaller airports
of speed limits. Just be wary of others driving fly into Germanys two major airports as well.
at manic rapidity. The recommended route However, it is worth checking out whether
into Berlin via car is the Bundesautobahn 10. your local airports have direct flights to and
Officially the longest motorway in Europe, this from the city. Berlin has two main airports,
route encircles the capital. Another important Berlin Schenfeld (SXF) located in the south-
route is the Berliner Stradtring which is the east and Berlin Tegel (TXL), located in the
main motorway situated around Berlins in- north-west. Both cater for international arrivals
ner-city. It is best that you figure the best route however Schenfeld generally caters for low
to take into Berlin before travelling to avoid budget airlines such as EasyJet and Ryanair.
getting lost in the depths of Germanys auto-
bahns.

Renting a car Travelling by taxi

If youre planning on renting a car in Berlin, Taxis are relatively cheap and are easy to hail
then youre in luck. Both within the city and at down within the city centre and surrounding
Berlins major airports, car rental places are neighbourhoods. International taxi firms such
never far away. If youre already in Berlin you as ber and myTaxi are also available with
can find major hire car companies in many of prices identical to their fares in other countries.
Berlins neighbourhoods. If youre travelling by However, if paying by card there will be an ex-
plane into either of Berlins airports both are tra 1.50 surcharge on top of your overall bill.
also equipped with rental car accessibility with- Try to avoid getting taxis at rush hour as the
in their grounds. citys main roads can get quite busy.

88
TRANSPORT
Berlin WelcomeCards

Upon your arrival, be sure to check


out the Berlin WelcomeCards on offer.
Available from all stations, they limit
the inconvenience of buying tickets on S-Bahn
demand. Ranging in price according to
your stays duration and zone access, The S-Bahn is predominately used for visiting
there are many different versions avail- destinations outside of Zone A. With the major-
able. There are, however, only two zone ity of the S-Bahn above ground, the trains are
options of the card available: AB or ABC. a useful way of crossing into the suburbs whilst
As Berlin is comprised of all three of also providing open views of Berlin on route.
these zones, the latter option is prefera- Prided on its speed, the S-Bahn is the fastest
ble. Whilst central attractions lie largely way of spanning greater distances across and
within Zones A and B, destinations such around the city.
as Potsdam or Schnefeld Airport ex-
tend into Zone C. As a result, the ABC
WelcomeCard is a good option for those
looking to visit outer areas on a more Tram and Metro
frequent basis or alternatively, extension
tickets can be purchased upon request. Tramlines are scattered across Berlin roads,
making them of easy access for pedestrians
looking for spontaneity in their travel. Trams
with an M number are known as metro
trams. These run more regularly than regular
Buses trams, usualy scheduled every ten minutes
as opposed to every 20-30 minutes. As metro
Much like the tram, buses are a good trams operate 24/7, they are a useful alter-
option for those casually looking to native to the S-Bahn during the week when
wander the city at their leisure. The next evening service fails to operate as regularly.
stop is announced prior to your arrival,
providing a clear method of tracking U-Bahn
your direction for those unfamiliar to
their
9 surroundings. The regular buses The U-Bahn is geared towards smaller range
run between 6.30am to 12.30 am. The trips, making it the desired mode of travel for
night buses span the hours 12.30am shorter stop adventures. Unlike the S-Bahn,
to 4.30am for when the U-Bahn slows these underground trains run 24 hours from
down. Twelve express buses marked Friday to Sunday, making it an integral part of
with xnumbers also provide a faster your journey for weekend nights out. As ser-
means of transport for those in need of a vice is so regular (usually every five-ten min-
speedy delivery. utes), the U-Bahn is preferable for ensuring a
prompt mode of transport to areas of a close
proximity.

9
Carrie Hutchinson and Anna Sagar

Survival Guide

Taking you from beginner to Berliner

10
Climate Health
The weather in Berlin can be quite var- Drugs must be purchased from an
iable, especially during the summer Apotheke (Pharmacy). Apothekes can
months. be found easily across the city, but if
Berlin winter is infamous, temperatures you are in need of urgent medication,
can decrease to -10C. call 011 41 for information from af-
For the most temperate weather, visit in ter-hour pharmacies.
late spring/early summer when Berlin is
least busy. Dress
During the day, Berliners often wear
Opening hours mostly black and asymmetrical clothing.
Most shops are closed on Sundays, Stay casual in the evenings at night-
including large supermarkets. clubs and bars as its very unusual to
All Berlin museums are closed on Mon- wear heels or suits on a night out.
days.
Galleries have varied opening hours so
plan ahead.

Money
Many bars are cash only. There are lots of Credit cards are not commonly ac-
ATMs around Berlin, but try to use official cepted, unless at a supermarket or
Bank ATMs when possible to avoid iden- high end restaurant.
tity theft.
Avoid exchange fees with a cash pass- A general rule of thumb for tipping
port from Travelex or an equivalent mul- is to round up for small bills, give a
ti-currency card. The Travelex app lets couple of euros for moderate bills
you check your balance and reload your and 5-10% for large bills. It is best to
card on the go. give tips to the waiting staff directly.

11
German culture
Germans usually have a high proficiency
SURVIVAL GUIDE in English, but many appreciate trying at
least a few words of German. Dont be
offended if they speak back in English,
most are very accomodating.

When talking to strangers, use the


formal pronoun sie (you) initially and
switch to du only if invited to do so.
Most Germans are very direct. Dont
perceive bluntness as rudeness, it is
most often intended to be frank and
honest.

Photoautomats
2 , will get you a strip of four vin-
tage like black and white photos.
The first shot is taken almost in-
stantly after the money is entered,
so be prepared.
Photos take a while to develop,
so dont panic if youre waiting for
longer than the time advised on
the machine.
If the Photoautomat sign is not lit
up, this is an indication that its
broken.

Safety
Berlin is a very safe city. There are some
areas that should best avoided at night,
however, such as Gorlitzer Park.
Neukolln, Kreuzberg and Friedrichsain
are nightlife hotspots, so be careful when
walking during the evening.
More popular areas are prone to pick-
pockets. These areas include Kurfursten-
damm, Brandenberg Tor, Museuminsel
and Alexanderplatz.

12
Travelling around Berlin
Stay out of the red cycle lanes on the pavements.
Dont jaywalk if theres traffic approaching, as cyclists and drivers
wont slow down for you.
Remember to validate your tram/train/bus ticket as soon as you get
on (unless you have a Berlin WelcomeCard) if you get caught with
an invalidated ticket, you could be left with a hefty fine.
Ticket inspectors are always un-uniformed and are not indisposed to
use force with those who try to sneak away.
An option to consider is the Berlin Welcome card, which can get you
free travel and discounts on attractions. There is a range of tickets
available starting from 19.90, varying from 42 hours to 6 days. You
can find more information here: https://www.visitberlin.de/en/ber-
lin-welcome-card

Key phrases

Ja Yes
Nein No
Danke Thanks
Bitte Please
Guten Tag Hello
Tschss Bye
Entschuldigung Excuse me/Sorry
Das verstehe ich nicht I dont understand
Bitte, sprechen Sie langsam Please speak slowly
Bitte wiederholen Please repeat that
Wie geht es dir? How are you?
Es geht mir gut/nicht gut I am fine/not fine
Kann ich ins Internet gehen Can I get on the internet?
Wie vielen kostet/kosten das? How much is this?

Prices

Guided tours 10-15


Beer 2.80-4.00
Cocktail 6-9
Club entry 5-12
Cappucino 2-3
Cheap meal 7-11 per person
Mid-range meal 15-30 per person

13
ACCOMODATION
14
Wombats Hostel
Emmi Harris
By far the most impressive thing about
There are many hostels in Berlin, but
Wombats, however, is its famous rooftop
perhaps none with views as impressive
hangout Wombar - this is the places ma-
as Wombats City Hostel. Located in Ber-
jor selling point. A bar on the top floor of
lins buzzing Mitte district, Wombats is
the building opens up on to a generous
competitively cheap and offers a range
rooftop balcony. From here, you can get
of room sizes, from dorms of six to pri-
one of the best views of Berlins stunning
vate suites.
skyline - get up close to its most famous
landmarks, including the imposing TV
This is a great hostel to meet other back-
tower.
packers, so a shared dorm is a good op-
tion each room has Wi-Fi, so theres
No matter what time of year you visit the
always time to catch up with friends back
city, Wombats is worth at least a one
home whilst making new ones. Upon
night stay to experience the stunning
check in, you receive a free coupon to
view. On the other hand, you would be
spend on either a beer or a wine in the
forgiven for wanting to stay longer than
hostels bar, and breakfast is also includ-
a single night.
ed in the price of the stay. The presence
of lockers in most rooms provides great
piece of mind, so you can know your val-
Wombats City Hostel, Alte Schnhauser
uables are safe while you go out and ex-
Str. 2, 10119, Berlin
plore the city.

15
Baxpax Downtown
Rachael Daly

If the basic services of a hostel


arent your thing and you con-
sider yourself a bit of a flash
packer, then Baxpax Downtown
hostel is right up your street. Be-
longing to a small chain of hos-
tels situated throughout Berlin,
Baxpax Downtown is located
in the epicentre in the popular
district Mitte. A stones throw
away from the S-Bahn Frie-
drichstrae station and next to
the Friedrichstadt Palast.

Choose between dormitories,


private rooms and female only
digs whilst taking advantage of
the free Wi-Fi. A popular resting
spot for groups and lone travel-
lers, its hard to not make friends
when enjoying your stay. Espe-
cially as it offers an array of ex-
citing extras such as a chilled
caf bar, a fireplace lounge, a
dazzling roof top terrace and a
backyard equipped with a pool.
There is nowhere else in Berlin
where you will find these types
of features without paying extor-
tionate prices. Relish the drinks
of the week they have on offer
and sit back and relax, party, or
sleep.

Baxpax Downtown, Ziegelstr. 28,


10117, Berlin, Prices start from
25 , http://baxpax.de/downtown/

16
Eastern/Western Com-
fort
Charlie Marx

For adventurous accommodation in the


heart of Berlins most bohemian dis-
tricts you have a choice of two hostels.
Moored end-to-end on the banks of the
Spree, directly parallel to the famous
East Side Gallery and slap-bang on the
border between Kreuzberg and Frieder-
ichshain, are the Eastern and Western
Comfort Hotelboats.

Eastern Comfort is the swankier of the


two. Sporting second and first class sin-
gle or double cabins from 58 -78 eu-
ros, and second and third class four-to-
five bed dormitories between 16 to 81
. On the upper-deck is a cosy bar and and nautical-themed; perfect for the
lounge which plays host live music and casual traveller, provided theyre under
language nights. The rooms are snug six foot.

Western Comfort is recommended for


those looking for the same geograph-
ical convenience on a budget. There
are only second class cabins available
here, with a choice of single or three-
bed options. Alternatively, if you are
feeling adventurous Western allows
you to camp on their beach-themed
upper deck from only 15 -25 a night.

The breakfast buffet on either boat is


6 , whilst towel hire is 5 . Whatever
your choice, both hostels offer some-
thing entirely different from the usual
humdrum of urban accommodation.
Just make sure to pack your sea legs.

Eastern/Western Comfort Hostel Boat


Mhlenstrae 73, 10243 Berlin
ern-comfort.com/en/boat/

17
ACCOMODATION

TO SEE
LANDMARKS - MEMORIALS - ARCHITECTURE - PARKS AND GARDENS
18
The Reichstag
Carrie Hutchinson
The Reichstag is the epicentre for Berlins past, present and future. The parliamentary
building was the site of decisive historical events during the Prussian, Imperial and
Nazi eras, and is now the current location of Germanys government, the Bundestag.
The Reichstag was and remains central to Germany and Berlins identity.

Being open and honest about its identity is the guiding principle of todays Bundestag.
In the spirit of this transparency, there are guided tours of the building once a week.
The crowning glory of the Reichstag, however, is Norman Fosters glass dome which
sits atop the building. For both these attractions, advance booking is essential and to
be able to visit during peak times its best you book at least a week prior to visiting, if
not earlier. You must also take either a passport or national identity card with you on
the day of your visit to pass through the airport-like security.

Once past the rigid security the domes magnificence is immediately undeniable.
The entirely modern piece is somehow cohesive with the traditional stonework of
the Reichstag. As you wonder around there is a free audio guide available. The
guide mostly describes the spectacular surroundings but there is also an informative
timeline of the history of the Reichstag on the ground floor of the dome. This time-
line encircles the spectacular towering mirrored centre column which saturates the
dome with natural light. Paired together with the double helix walkway that spirals
the inside of the dome, the whole exhibit is as mesmerising as the vista of Berlin.

At the Reichstag, modern architecture melds with classic to make it a complex hy-
brid being. The whole building is a powerful metaphor for what Germany now stands
for. It is a striking way to remember Berlins past and to look to its bright future. w

The Reichstag, Platz der Republik 1, 11011 Berlin, Mon-Sun 8am-12am


(last admission at 10pm), Free admission (advance booking is neces-
sary), https://www.bundestag.de/en/visitthe Bundestag/dome/registra-
tion/245686

19
The Brandenburg Gate

Graeme Acres to offer, including a range of landmarks


and famous buildings. A trip to the gate
Built in the 18th century, the Branden- means walking in the shadows of the
burg Gate is one of Berlins most iconic French and US embassies, the famous-
landmarks. ly luxurious Hotel Adlon and a glimpse of
the Reichstag building.
Part of what makes the Brandenburg
Gate so renowned is the quadriga which An ideal stepping stone for anyone look-
crowns its archway, a sculpture of a wom- ing to experience Berlins historical and
an mounted on a four horse chariot. The cultural heritage, the Brandenburg Gate
sculpture was originally a depiction of is a must see landmark for any tourist.
Eirene, the goddess of peace. Following
the Napoleonic War, the sculpture was
later changed to mark Prussias growing
military prowess. In her place now is Vic-
toria, the goddess of victory, who watch-
es over all who walk through her gate.

In addition to being an iconic landmark,


the Brandenburg Gate is a doorway into
the heart of Berlins political and eco-
nomic centre. It was once the official
gateway for the Prussian monarchs to
enter the city. Follow in their footsteps
and discover more of what Berlin has

20 LANDMARKS
St. Hedwigs Cathedral
Emmi Harris

At 240 years old, St Hedwigs Cathe-


dral has played an important role in
the life of the Bebelplatz area. It is con-
sidered the first established Catholic
Church after the reunification of Berlin.

Lesser known than the Berliner Dom,


this cathedral is understated but cer-
tainly not underwhelming. Original-
ly a gift from Prussian King Frederick
II to Catholic worshippers, the cathe-
drals most striking feature is its dome-
like shape - a copper structure fin-
ished in a prominent turquoise colour.

Designed by architect, Georg Wenz-


eslaus von Knobelsdorffs, this beau-
tifully restored place of worship can
be viewed free of charge. However,
please note that it can only be viewed
outside of service hours, so be sure to
avoid disappointment by checking the
service times of when you plan to visit.

While impressive externally from an ar-


chitectural point of view, it is well worth
venturing inside Hedwigs Cathedral to
see its stunning internal design. The
ornate interior is really something to
behold with stain glass windows, elab-
orate wall art and golden statues. The
amazing circular skylight is a unique
and defining feature, flooding the ca-
thedral with natural light. There is also
a well-attended afternoon organ recit-
al every Wednesday (3:30pm), which
may be of interest to music lovers.

Hinter der Katholischen KIrche 3,


10117.Berlin. Monday- Wednesday
8am-2pm, Thursday 11.30am-5.30pm

21
Checkpoint Charlie
Emmi Harris

Checkpoint Charlie is the poignant focal


point that marks the once infamous bor-
derland between a divided Berlin. The
checkpoint played host to a number of pris-
oner exchanges, and was one of the first
places to open its barriers and allow peo-
ple to cross after the government eased
travel restrictions in November 1989.

Although an incredibly important histor-


ical landmark, today Checkpoint Char-
lie is widely considered one of Berlins
more kitsch tourist attractions. Two

Introduction
guards adorn either side of a replica of
the original checkpoint and for a small
fee of 2, you can have your photo tak-
en with them. Despite the commercial-
ism, getting a photo or a passport stamp
is a novel way of capturing your trip.

Whilst definitely worth a visit to envision


how Checkpoint Charlie and the sur-
rounding areas may have once looked,
there is little to be gained from seeing the
checkpoint without context. To achieve
some historical insight, it is recommend-
ed you visit the close-by Museumhaus am
Checkpoint Charlie. The museum fea-
tures exhibitions of real escape objects
and life stories of those who succeeded
in crossing the Berlin Wall in their escape.

Checkpoint Charlie, Friedrichstrae 43-


45 10117 Berlin

22 LANDMARKS
Victory Column
Tyler Nevins

Purposefully located in the heart of


what may be Berlins most historical
area, stands the impressive Victory Col-
umn. The 67 metre war monument is a
quick walk from both the Reichstag and
Brandenburg Gate. For a 3 fee, those
willing to brave a steep 270 stair climb
are rewarded with a broad view of the
lush forested area, the Tiergarten, in ad-
dition to the expansive Berlin skyline in
the distance.

The admission fee was a small price to


pay to share Victorias, the statue atop
the columns, breathtaking views. From
about 60 metres above ground, the Vic-
tory Column provides a soothing respite
from the hustle and bustle of the road be-
low. With that being said, consider your
company when ascending the column,
as it is no meager climb. It may not be
suitable for children or the elderly. While
admiring the monument from the ground
is not its most its most flattering aspect,
it is still a beautiful and meaningful struc-
ture that is a must-see for first time Berlin
visitors.

Berlin Victory Column, Groer Stern,


10557 Berlin

23
Introduction
Berliner Dom than might be expected, priced at 7
Emmi Harris
euros for adult entry (although that
Cathedrals are, by nature, beautiful price decreases to 5 with a valid stu-
buildings. The Berliner Dom in Ber- dent card). However, admission does
lins central Mitte district is no excep- include a trip to the top of the tower, a
tion, boasting a seriously impressive vantage point that provides incredible
structure which unashamedly de- views over Berlins stunning skyline.
mands the attention of passers-by. This goes some way towards justify-
ing the cathedrals higher entrance fee.
Although completed in 1910, this impor-
tant religious site has roots dating back The cathedral is open Monday-Sun-
to the 1400s, when the initial foundations day from 9am to 7pm, so howev-
were laid around 1465. The cathedral as er brief your stay in Berlin may be,
it can be seen today is a reconstructed there is plenty of opportunity to vis-
version of the original, after being partly it this beautiful place of worship.
demolished in both 1750 and 1893 and
then subsequently heavily bombed in Berliner Dom, Am Lustgarten, 10178
World War II. The new structure has ob- Berlin. Monday- Sunday, 9-19.00
viously been rebuilt with deliberate gran-
deur and dominates the pleasant Lust-
garten square where it proudly stands.

Admission is slightly more expensive

24 LANDMARKS
Alexanderplatz mas markets taking place here in the
winter months. All year round you also
Rachael Daly
have the optional treat of living like a lo-
cal by grabbing a currywurst from one of
If bustling shopping centres and enter-
the street vendors located throughout.
tainment complexes are your cup of tea,
Make your way there in the night to see
be sure to visit Alexanderplatz. Named
the square lit up by its surrounding mon-
after Tsar Alexander I after his visit to
uments such as the iconic TV Tower, or
the Prussian capital in 1805, Alexan-
the The World Time Clock, Weltzeithuhr.
derplatz is the biggest public square in
the whole of Germany, referred to many
Whatever the time or the season, Alex
locals as simply Alex. Taking structure
still manages to hold within it a hint
in 1960, there are now an array of de-
of Berlins quirkiness, by adding trim-
partment stores and restaurants situ-
mings which make your time there
ated around its edges. Undeniably an
just a little bit more memorable than
attraction where entertainment meets
your average shopping complex visit.
commerce in the finest way imaginable.
Alex is also home to the biggest trans-
port junction on the East Side of Berlin.
What makes it different from many oth-
er commercial centres around the globe
Train, tram, bus: you wont struggle
are its added specialities. In the summer
finding your way to and from the com-
grab a beer at a pop-up bar situated in the
plex.
centre of the square, enjoy the crowds
Alexanderplatz 10178, Berlin. Opening
gathering for Oktoberfest celebrations
hours vary between stores
or get into the festive spirit at the Christ-

25
The TV Tower
Kieran Gale

The centrepiece of Alexanderplatz, and


perhaps the rest of Berlin, the Fernseh-
turm TV tower dominates the city skyline
at 368 metres tall. The distinctive dome
houses an observation deck and restau-
rant, which at 203 and 207 metres pro-
vide stunning views of Berlin in its en-
tirety for visitors. Within the observation
deck is Bar 203, specializing in cocktails.
It offers a unique, but expensive drinking
experience in an authentic 1960s Mad-
men-esque decor. In the Sphere Restau-
rant customers, can expect the options
of breakfast, lunch or a three-course din-
ner, all while the floor rotates to show off
the city.

The tower is arguably the pinnacle of So-


viet architecture and engineering to be
found in Berlin. It was designed by East
German architect Hermann Henselmann
and approved for construction in 1964 by
the German Democratic Republic gov-
ernment with the intention of the tower
becoming a symbol of Soviet power. The
towers history, along with the history of
the landmarks visible from the tower, is
displayed in the observation deck, mak-
ing it a great attraction for amateur histo-
rians, children and the curious alike.

TV Tower, Panoramastrae 1A, 10178


Berlin, March-Oct Daily 9am-12am,
Nov-Feb Daily 10am-12am, Standard
ticket 13 , https://tv-turm.de/en/tick-
ets-prices/

26 LANDMARKS
Olympiastadion
Tyler Nevins

The Olympiastadion is a cant-miss site


for any sports fan. Within the cement
confines of its 75,000-seat stadium, the
Olympiastadion is home to the beloved
Hertha BSC, Berlins top-flight football
team. On game day, the streets are joy-
ously filled with Herthas blue and white
clad supporters. Upon kickoff, all the
pent-up excitement is released vis--vis
15 minutes of ceaseless chanting, an ex-
ercise of generations of rich football tra-
dition in the nations capital.

For the ultimate football experience,


dont hesitate to purchase higher quali-
ty seats. They are relatively inexpensive
when compared to a more prestigious
team, but this shouldnt affect a visitors
experience much. The passion displayed
by the home fans for their boys (win or
lose) encourages all to participate in the
ceremonious cheering.

When soccer is not in season, the


81-year-old stadium is available for a
multitude of guided tours, covering its ex-
pansive history, beginning with the 1936
Summer Olympic Games. The venue is
also sporadically used as a concert hall,
hosting worldwide names such as U2,
Rolling Stones, and Coldplay.

Olympiastadion, Olympischer Pl. 3,


14053 Berlin, Nov-Mar Daily 10am-
4pm, April-Oct Daily 9am-7pm, Tour
tickets: 11 , Match tickets: Prices vary

27
Potsdams Sanssouci Park
Kieran Gale Palais garnered immediate attention for
its flamboyant style. Today the Palais still
Half an hour on the train is all it takes to achieves such a feat and if you are at
reach Sanssouci Park from Berlins city all interested in interior design, history
centre. Tucked away here are summer or sheer extravagance then the audio
palaces built by Prussian royals osf old. tour is worth the hour it takes. Availa-
You will be without worries wandering ble in multiple languages including Eng-
the park to reach King Frederick the lish, the tour shuffles visitors through
Greats Sanssouci, the famous summer the main halls, bedrooms and hunting
house named to inspire a care free life. It rooms of the Palais. Each room has a
is easy to see how the king lived so free- comprehensively researched and clearly
ly with the view youre greeted by at the spoken audio track, providing context to
top of the steps. If you wish to pay your the magnificence.
respects to Frederick, bring a potato to
place on his grave. Should historical buildings not be your
thing, the park itself is a peaceful escape
At the opposite end of the Park and com- from the liveliness of Berlin. Its 290 hec-
pletely contrasting in design is the Neue tares of green space are maintained to
Palais. Upon its completion in 1769 the a high standard, making it a great place

28
to visit for parents with young children or
dog owners too. Scattered around the
park are other interesting buildings such
as the Chinese House and the Orang-
erie, which when complemented by the
surrounding fountains, are a pleasant
place to stop and eat a packed lunch.
There is only one caf in the entirety of
the Park, so be sure to bring snacks for
a longer day.

Other than for perhaps the hardcore


rave crowd, Sanssouci Park provides
something for nearly everyone. Just be
sure to plan your visit in advance as any Sanssoci Park, Maulbeerallee, 14469 Pots-
dam, Palaces: Daily 10am-5pm, Park: Daily
rain could dampen your spirits in such an 8am-8pm, Standard ticket 6 (summer), 5
open natural area. (winter), https://www.spsg.de/schloess-
er-gaerten/objekt/schloss-sanssouci/

29
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
Carrie Hutchison

Germany and the memory of the Holocaust


will always be inextricably linked. Dealing the concrete. But it does impress a sense of
with this ugly past is extraordinarily difficult, unimaginable scale and helplessness. Visit-
but Germany has done so with a commend- ing this memorial is a unique and interesting
able amount of grace and respect. The re- way to begin to attempt to understand what
lationship with their history is clearest in the Holocaust was. Distanced from reality,
Berlins Memorial to the Murdered Jews. the Holocaust seems like a comprehendi-
The memorial also hides its sister museum ble, homogenous entity. But upon closer in-
within its depths. At one end, the memorial spection, the memorial reminds us that no
steps lead underground to the exhibitions of amount of education or information will ever
accounts of Holocaust survivors and stories allow anyone to fully appreciate the Holo-
from that time. This abstract memorial, in causts impact.
the centre of historical Berlin, is given prima-
cy in the remembrance of those who were Architect Peter Eisenmann has ensured
most brutally affected by Hitlers regime. that the piece does not impress any con-
temporary bias on future generations and
This isolating and unsettling memorial em- allows them to interpret history without past
phasises both the industrial efficiency and influences. At this memorial Germany ac-
the pandemic fear of the Holocaust. En- cepts its past and its responsibility. It allows
tering the memorial, the light dims and the the remembrance of the persecuted without
noise of the city recedes. Simultaneously, justification or excuse. Berlins most famous
you start to lose sight of human company memorial should stand as an example to the
and the city around you apart from brief, world on how to remember ones history, no
fleeting glimpses. The blocks gradually be- matter how painful.
gin to tower above you as you descend into
the darkness. These stark, straight columns The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe,
are in contrast with the undulating, uneven Cora-Berliner-Strae 1, 10117 Berlin
ground that wills you to fall. There is no
grandeur or fanfare to be found here among

31
Memorial to the
Homosexuals Persecuted There is a small alcove in the stone that
shows couples kissing in public places,
Under Nazism ignoring the judgements of passers-by.
Matilda Haymes Differing greatly to many of the other Hol-
ocaust memorials in Berlin, its creators
A short walk from Eisenmans iconic Jew- Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset
ish Memorial, the Memorial to the Homo- have chosen to reflect on the contem-
sexuals Persecuted Under Nazism is a porary legacy, rather than lamenting the
powerful and creative remembrance for lives lost during this period. By featuring
LGBT victims of the Holocaust. Aesthet- modern couples, the memorial ignites
ically, the two memorials feel connect- a powerful connection to contemporary
ed; this singular grey cuboid matches LGBT issues; memorialising the trag-
the stones that make up the Jewish Me- edies of the National Socialist regime
morial. This similarity has proved con- through a celebration of recent social
troversial and the memorial has been progression and an evocation of hope.
subjected to criticism on the grounds
that it makes the sense of suffering
between the two groups comparable. Memorial to the Homosexuals Persecut-
ed under Nazism, Ebertstrae, 10557
However, this is criticism is questionable Berlin, The memorial is free and open
due to the almost secretive placing of this 24hrs.
memorial. Tucked away in a far corner
of the Tiergaten, it is unlikely you would
discover it if you were not looking for it.

32 MEMORIALS
Bibliothek Memorial
Amy Finn

Submerged below ground, the Biblio-


thek memorial parallels a story yet to
be uncovered. Designed by Israeli artist
Micha Ullman in 1995, the memorial re-
instates the literary voices of blacklisted
authors such as Sigmund Freud, Karl
Marx and Erich Kstner, whose works
were among the 20,000 books cremat-
ed in the face of Nazi supremacy.

Ullman succeeds in constructing a nar-


rative which refuses to be silenced in
the same way as the years proceeding.
Showcasing row upon row of empty
white book shelves, the memorials
sheer vacancy immediately grounds the
project in the alienation and estrange-
ment paramount to the monuments in-
centive. In the words of Heinrich Heine
engraved beside the memorial, the
quotation where they burn books, they
will ultimately burn people embodies
the artworks overall shell-like, hollow
nature.

Asserting the potential for literature to


unite, the Bibliothek memorial is not an
opportunity to be missed for literature
and history lovers alike. Although the
monument may be small and under-
stated in its simplicity, Ullmans strate-
gic use of symbolism proposes a story
which is both thought provoking and
emotive in its portrayal of loss, par-
ticularly with regard to the ways which
potential is sacrificed in the hands of
oppression.

Bebelplatz, 1, 10117, Berlin

33
A CLOSER LOOK:
Berlin and the Memory
of World War Two
Mary Upton

Berlins history is an integral part of its


overall identity. Whether youre here for a
weekend or here indefinitely, you should
take time to consider the impact of the
Second World War. Germany as a whole
has come a long way since the horrors
of the mid 20th century and although the
scars of the past are slowly healing, they
unavoidably remain.

Numerous memorials can be found all


over the metropolis, dedicated to the
various victims claimed by the war. The
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Eu-
rope, or the Holocaust Memorial, is a
large-scale commemoration that seeks
to remember the loss of an estimated
six million people: a colossal and som-
bre task for creator and architect, Peter
Eisenman. The Memorial to Homosex-
uals Persecuted Under Nazism, a mere
30-second walk from the Holocaust Me-
morial, has a similar visual appearance to
that of Eisenmans design. Both memo-
rials conjure entirely different responses
and emotions, however, both establish
the differences and individuality of war-
time experience.

Berlin has become a rather nonconform-


ist city and this extends to the way it
chooses to remember World War Two.
Art has enabled Berlin to express a con-
nection with the past in interesting and
unique ways, whilst maintaining an over-
arching degree of respect.

34
The memory of the World War Two also seems somewhat controversial, Berlin
infiltrates life in Berlin in a less obvious allows all of these very different memori-
way through Stolpersteins, or stumbling als to coexistent.
stones. Literally designed with the intent
of being stumbled upon, these brassy Germany is by no means the only country
plaques are found in the ground, repli- trying to deal with an complex past, but
cating cobbles on a road. Each stone is what makes the capital of Berlin unique
engraved with the name and the dates of is that the events of the twentieth century
birth and death of an individual who fell still continue to haunt its present. A citys
victim to Nazi brutality. A global venture, past will always be an important part of
there are over 56,000 stones to be found its character and when it comes to re-
across 22 European countries. The ma- membering the World War Two, Berlin
jority of the stones remember Jewish vic- will never forget.
tims but individuals from others groups
that faced Nazi persecution are also
commemorated.

In contrast to the subtlety of the stum-


bling stones are the various Soviet war
memorials across Berlin. These displays Landmarks mentioned:
honour the Soviet experience and loss Memorial to the Murdered Jews of
of life in World War Two. In a more cele- Europe
bratory fashion, the Soviet War Memori- Memorial to Homosexuals Persecuted
al in Treptower Park focuses on military Under Nazism
prowess whilst simultaneously serving Soviet War Memorial - Treptower Park
as a cemetery for those killed. Although Stolperstein Project
the presence of Soviet memorials now

35
The Soviet War Memorial distinctly Soviet environment that defines
it from other WW2 memorials in Berlin.
Graeme Acres

The Soviet War Memorial, located in


Treptow Park, is a place like no other
Despite the imposing nature of the me-
in Berlin. Its an implacable display of
morial, the surrounding greenery of the
the Soviet Union amidst Berlins ev-
park and non-existent admission fees
er-changing cityscape. The memorial
makes it a popular place for Berliners.
offers a powerful visual example of the
Dog-walkers, joggers and families all
Soviet Unions austere architectural
come here enjoy the peaceful greenery
style and its vast military contribution to
and impressive scenery of the area.
the Second World War.
The Soviet War Memorial is an ideal
place for anyone interested in taking a
quiet walk and experiencing a remarka-
Upon entering the park, it is clear the So-
ble piece of Berlins modern history.
viet Union never dealt in half measures.
Murals of stern-faced Soviet infantrymen
flank both sides of the expansive plaza.
The plaza itself is also overlooked by a
tall statue of a victorious Soviet who cuts
Soviet War Memorial Treptow Park Pus-
an imposing stance and carries a young chkinallee 12435 Berlin, open 24hrs, free
child in one hand, standing tall atop a admission
shattered swastika. All of this creates a

36 MEMORIALS
The Berlin Wall Memorial
Carrie Hutchison

The ghost of the Berlin Wall haunts


Berlin to this day. The remnants of the
old divide seem to remain unavoidable
throughout the city. But remembering
the walls inescapable presence when
it was up is vital in understanding both
past and present Berlin.

The Berlin Wall Memorial is central to


this mission. Dedicated as a memorial
on the 2nd of October 1990, only a day
before German reunification, this site
serves as a reminder of the division that
Berlin and Germany experienced for
over 40 years.

As an open-air memorial, it can be


accessed at all times, and seems less
of a monument than it does stepping
back in time. From the viewing gallery
above the visitor centre one can look
down upon an original watchtower and
envisage The piece is almost tactile in
the way it encourages visitors to stroll
beside the wall, to cross through the
space it used to occupy and to zigzag
across the no mans land. It hammers
home the very real space the wall used
to occupy
.
Particularly important, this memorial
gives equal weight to the loss of life
on both sides of the wall. It is too easy
in the act of remembrance to create a
story of good versus evil. But, while
this memorial remains factual and in-
formative, it stays true to the spirit of
Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer, Bernauer Str.
unification that eventually brought the
111, 13355 Berlin, The visitor centre: Mon-Sun
wall down in 1989. 8am-10pm, http://www.berliner-mauer-gedenk-
staette.de/en/history-of-the-memorial-211.html

37
CITYarts Mosaic Peace realised by the artists. Individual artworks
Wall created by the children are also aligned
Amy Finn below, with the words Young Minds Build
Bridges cast to the right. When the piec-
With the Jewish Holocaust crematorium es of the puzzle are whole, the memorial
only a stones throw away from both a is vivid in both its artistry and message.
Protestant church and a Catholic hospi-
tal, the location of the peace wall encom- The mosaic truly is a mark of redemp-
passes the diversity it aims to promote. tion in the wake of the citys past.
Constructed in 2013 as CITYarts fifth Choosing to engage the voices of the
global project, the wall aims to engage youth as opposed to oppress, the art-
youth around the world in coming togeth- work succeeds in bringing people of
er to create both art and unity. Situated all different cultures closer together.
on Grosse Hamburger Str. 25 commonly
recognised as the Street of Tolerance,
the peace walls deliberate setting is
equally as assorted as the artwork itself.

When asked what peace looked like to


them, the children of twelve Berlin schools
and youth programmes collaborated with
artists and volunteers alike to create the
mosaic. The result, a scenic landscape of Groe Hamburger Str.26, 10115, Berlin
tranquility, designed by the children and

38 MEMORIALS
The Kaiser Wilhelm
Memorial Church
Carrie Hutchison

The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church is


an island of serenity nestled in the centre
of the bustling Kurfrstendamm. Here,
one can feel distanced from the citys
hubbub and contemplate on themselves,
religion, or the past.

Reflection drove the renovation of the


original church. The now memorial halls
scars were intentionally left partially
treated to remind us of the devastation
that was wrought by the bombings of
World War II. Only the vestiges of the
clock-tower remain and inside there is
a permanent display which memorialis-
es Berlin as it was before 1940. The old
church is a striking exhibit which makes
the horror of that era seem freshly en- The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church Breitscheid-
dured. platz, 10789 Berlin, The new church: Mon-Sun 9am
-7pm (church visits are not possible during church
services, devotions and concerts), The memorial
The disfigured 19th century church hall: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 12pm-
now lies between two concrete, hon- 5.30pm (closed on Good Friday and Christmas Eve),
Worship services: Sun 10am and 6pm.
ey-combed structures which make up the
new church. Their outer cladding does
little to suggest the beauty that can be
found within. Inside the new church thou-
sands of glass mosaics bathe the hall in
a sapphire glow. The gold floating Jesus
towers over the alter as the focal point of
the room. The whole scene is both ethe-
real and haunting.

The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church


is a surprisingly thought-provoking site.
Two sides of the same coin; the new and
old churches differences make them
equally bold and stimulating. Here mod-
ern and historical meet and harmonise to
create a memorable exhibition of religion
and history.

39
A Journey Through Karl- impressive and demands your attention.
The Stalinist architecture deployed here
Marx Allee has undeniable similarities to classic Pa-
risian designs. On a clear day the sun
Mary Upton
reflects from the golden, sandy finish of
Karl Marx Allee, found on the border of the buildings. The highlight is definitely
Friedrichshain and Mitte, is a major East the fountains at Strausberger Platz. The
Berlin street that is home to classic ex- TV tower also looks on from a distance
amples of Stalinist architecture from the making it a great photo opportunity.
1950s. Berlin tends not to shy away from
its past and like other landmarks in the Once favoured by the GDR for their mili-
city, Karl Marx Allee seeks to establish tary parades and celebrations, Karl Marx
this. Karl Marx himself was idolised un- Allee today is lined with various shops,
der the communist GDR regime, and cafs and attractions. There is even a
both the name of the street and the ar- cinema, museum and a Karl Marx book-
chitectural design continue to pay tribute shop along the way. If you have a keen
to the memory of East Berlin prior to the interest in architecture, the GDR regime
fall of the wall. or post-World War Two reconstruction
then make sure to take a journey through
Nothing about the boulevard is modest. Karl Marx Allee.
Reaching nearly two kilometres in length
and 89 metres in width, Karl Marx Allee is

40 ARCHITECTURE
Unter Den Linden that each building should adopt a differ-
ent appearance. The street has conse-
Emmi Harris
quently become an eclectic - and in some
cases eccentric mix - of architectural
Unter den Linden is the unashamedly
styles. Neue Wache in particular stands
lavish boulevard that flows through the
out, with its Roman-style buttresses.
heart of Berlin, its route stretching from
the Brandenburg Gate all the way to Ber-
In summer months the street is awash
lin Cathedral.
with shoppers and tourists alike, leisurely
strolling or adorning tables as they dine
Strolling along this tree-lined avenue,
al fresco. In winter the street is illuminat-
you can pass some of the citys most re-
ed with dazzling fairy lights that drape
markable buildings such as the beautiful
from the bare trees to create a magical
State Opera. Abundant with cafes, cof-
scene. For those wanting to explore Ber-
fee houses and restaurants, it is possi-
lin on foot, Unter den Linden provides
ble to spend all day here and watch the
one of the most charming and pedestri-
world go by.
an friendly atmospheres in the city.
Architect Karl Friedrich Schinkels, who
oversaw much of the reconstruction of
the street after it had been damaged in
the Second World War, was determined

41
Tiergarten burg Gate or even the Reichstag. If
Mary Upton you dont wish to roam, the park is also
great for a lazy Sunday picnic graze.
It is a well-known fact that every great
city has one particularly popular park. As Germanys third largest urban gar-
For Berlin, this is Tiergarten. The Tier- den, adventuring around every inch of
garten Park, situated slightly to the the park does provide somewhat of a
West of Berlin, is more than just a green problem on foot. However, exploring
space; it is a cultural hub. Founded in
the 1500s, the park has a rich heritage.
Once owned by the Prussian monarchy,
and later renovated under Nazi ideology,
the park has more than earned its title as
Garden Memorial to the City of Berlin.

Tiergarten is divided by major roads but


due to the sheer volume of trees that en-
close the green spaces, the park has the
feel of an enchanted forest. This is am-
plified when you consider that Tiergarten
is also home to, and borders many, of
Berlins most important memorials and
landmarks. If you take an aimless wan-
der, you may end up stumbling upon
the Berlin Victory Column, Branden-

42 PARKS AND GARDENS


all Tiergarten has to offer can easily be park, and take in the lush scenerya. Take a
achieved by bike. The app Nextbike has detour down Grimmstrae for great food;
from Turkish to French to Japanese and
an English translation option and allows
back. For the avid shoppers there is Graf-
you to locate available bikes close by.
estrae with quirky shops and cafs aplenty
Prices start at just 1.5 for thirty min- for a coffee break. KAFFEE BAR and Filter-
utes, making it an affordable outing. house both have excellent specialty coffee.
If biking really isnt your thing, the 100
bus route takes you straight through the For a quieter vibe there is Paul-Lincke-Ufer
centre of the park. Although preferable and Maybachufer. Walk along the cob-
to experience on a dry day, the park is
equipped with places to eat and drink that
are perfect for taking refuge in the rain.

Tiergarten, Mitte District

Landwehr Canal
Anna Sagar

They say the best way to get to know a city is


to wander. If thats the case than wandering
along the Landwehr Canal offers the per-
fect opportunity to really get to know Berlin.

The 10.7 km stretch of canal connects the bled streets and take in the idyllic Geor-
areas of Friedrichshain with Charlotten- gian houses and quaint shops for a truly
burg, flowing through Kreuzberg and Tier- elegant Berlin experience. On the corner
garten in the process. With a huge variety of Maybachufer and Schinkestrae there
of cafes, shops, people and architecture to are often buskers and, whilst unpredicta-
admire there will be something for everyone ble, offer an eclectic mix of performances.
along this scenic route, come rain or shine.
cenic canal walk take the U-Bahn to Schle- Past the dappled trees of Maybachufer
sisches Tor and take a short walk up the you enter in Bockler Park, one of the most
road to the Schleusenufer (Upper Lock). idyllic sections of the Landwehr canal. Find
Near here you can stroll through to Flut- a spot on the grassy banks, or a bench if
graben and enjoy a coffee by the riverside its winter, and just watch the world go by.
or a scenic beer in Club der Visionre. For
the more adventurous there is also the
bar Badeschiff, which consists of a float-
ing swimming pool and beach themed bar.
Their pool parties are not to be missed.

Fully refuelled, continue along Lohmhlen-


strae, with the possible detour in to Grlitzer

43
Treptower Park
Emmi Harris

A short walk from the impressive archway at the


main entrance to the park, a notably grand set
of steps leads down to a green oasis. Thanks
to the thickly lined trees either side, the park
feels surreally far removed from the city.

Incredibly aesthetically pleasing, parts of Trep-


tower seem to have been built with symmetry
and uniformly straight edges in mind. Other ar-
eas where nature seems to have taken over
pose a beautiful contrast, wild and untamed.

Designed by Johann Gustav Meyer as early as


1860, the life and constant change of Treptower
is evident in the subsequent building of Archen-

Introduction
hold Sternwarte (an astronomical observatory)
in 1896. The implementation of the Red Army
memorial in 1949 reflects the changing times
and pivotal societal and political developments
of the city. The most famous and an undoubt-
edly prominent feature of the park is the Soviet
Memorial. Depicting a Russian soldier saving a
young child as he stands over a crushed Nazi
swastika, the memorial successfully symbolis-
es the liberation of Berlin.

This park is more than merely a memorial of


historical events, however; this is a living park.
Treptower is used frequently by locals, who
can be seen enjoying their lunch on one of the
parks many benches or going for a jog along
one of its picturesque paths. Easily reached
by S-Bahn, Treptower offers its own modes of
transportation in the form of boat tours along
the River Spree. Accessible from several lo-
cations in the park, this is a novel way to see
Berlin.

The park offers a peaceful place to contem-


plate both history and the present; the places
utter stillness and seclusion provides the per-
fect setting for some quiet time.

Treptower Park, Alt-Treptow, 12435 Berlin

44 PARKS AND GARDENS


The Charlottenburg Palace Gardens
Mary Upton

The Charlottenburg Palace Gardens were al- purchase tickets for entry into the palace itself
ways destined for grandeur. In the Western out- and the museums within the vicinity. If youre
skirts of Berlin, a little beyond Tiergarten, these in need of tranquil retreat or want to splurge on
gardens can be found. Gracefully adorned with experiencing a beautiful Prussian palace then
flowers and intricate patterns made out of na- waste no time heading over to Charlottenburg.
ture, its easy to lose yourself in the beauty
here. Take a wander among the flowerbeds, jog
beside the River Spree or even feed the ducks
at the Karpfenteich pond.

The Charlottenburg Palace is the largest in Ber-


lin and, as with the Sanssoucci Palace further
west of Berlin, Charlottenburg has Prussian ori-
gins. But it is thanks to the French Princess So-
phie Charlotte, wife of Frederick I, that the pal-
ace and gardens here were designed according
to the Baroque and Rococo art movements. Al-
though once only visited by the Prussian mon-
archy in summer, today the palace and gardens
are open all year round. In the winter months,
you can expect to find an idyllic Christmas mar- Charlottenburg Palace, Spandauer Damm 20-24, 14059
ket set up within the grounds. Berlin, Monday closed, Summer: Tues-Sun 10am-6pm,
Winter: Tues-Sun 10am-5pm, Admission to gardens is
free, Admission to palace is 10, Admission to palace
The gardens are free to enter but to make a and museums is 12, https://www.spsg.de/schloess-
full day out of your visit, you can also opt to er-gaerten/objekt/schloss-charlottenburg/

45
TO DO
MUSEUMS - GALLERIES - SHOPPING - ALTERNATIVE
46
Neues Musuem
Anna Sagar

With over 9,000 interesting and unusual ob-


jects spread across three major historical
collections, the Neues Museum is definitely
a sight to see. Reopened in 2009 this ne-
oclassical gem has had a face lift from the
modernist imaginings of David Chipperfield,
making the building an attraction in itself.

The main attraction of this museum is the


famous Nefertiti bust. Exhibited alone in the
domed hall in the north of the building the cu-
ration makes you feel like you are in the pres-
ence of the Queen herself. To truly bask in her
glory it is best to go there earlier in the day.
The Bronze Age Berlin Gold Hat is also
a novel attraction. One of four found
around the world, this golden conical
hat is engraved with astrological sym-
bols, theorised to help Druids predict the
best times to harvest and plant crops.

The Trojan antiquities encapsulate an inter-


esting historical conundrum. The silver arte-
facts are one of the few authentic pieces in
the museum as many of the original items were
looted when the Red army stormed Berlin.
There is too much to mention for this re-
view to allow for. From Egyptian mummies
to Stone Age axes, the Neues Museum
presents a unique way to experience hu-
man evolution, from our elemental begin-
ning to more complex cultural practices.

The Neues Museum is only one of six mu-


seums available to visit on Museum Is-
land. It is best to make a day of it, and to
visit a few with the help of a Museum Is-
land pass, which can be pre-booked on-
Neues Museum, Bodestrae 1-3, 10178
line. Whether you are interested in 19th
Berlin, Tues-Wed 10am-6m, Thurs 10am-
century art, Middle Eastern antiquities or 8pm, Fri-Sun 10am-6pm, Standard ticket
want to soak in the Berlin sunshine there 12 , Concessions 6 , http://www.smb.
is more than enough to keep you occupied. museum/museen-und-einrichtungen/neu-
es-museum/home.html

47
Anne Frank: Here and
Now
Rachael Daly

Located down a quiet alley in the depths of the


Hackescher Markt, there stands the newly per-
manent exhibition dedicated to the much loved
writer, Anne Frank. Its surroundings compare to
a location within a fairy tale. Covered in an array
of winding trees and an impressive graffiti-style
portrait of Anne, there is a peaceful ambience
to its setting of which adds to the exhibitions
unique importance.

Anne Frank: Here and Now offers visitors a


visual insight into her childhood. The di pro-
vides documentation on her short, yet inspiring
life through a series of photographs and ob-
jects. Brought to light are aspects of her diary,
whereby she discusses the rise in National So-
cialism and the persecution of Jews during the
Second World War. The details described are
presented using a minimal, yet powerful time-
line, displaying images and facts of the Nazis
growth in power. It is hard not to feel solemn
whilst listening to an audio of Annes father Otto
discussing the moments in which he first read
Annes diary. There are also visuals available
whereby peoples opinions on the subject of Anne Frank: Here and Now, Rosenthaler
racism is brought to light in the present day. Strae 39, 10178 Berlin, Mon-Sat 10am-
6pm, Closed-Sunday, Standard ticket 3 -5 ,
The exhibition acts as a graceful tribute to Anne https://www.annefrank.de/en/exhibition-in-ber-
Franks life by giving visitors the ability to dis- lin/ 3-5 per visit.
cover many unknown facts about her everyday
life thanks to her humbling and symbolic story.

48 MUSEUMS
The Stasi Museum were released in 1992, and are now available
Emma Seabuckthorn to the public should they wish to find out if any-
one they knew were in actual fact spies.
The Stasi Museum serves as a memorial to
the former headquarters of the East German Since there is so much to discover, paying for
Ministerium fr Staatssicherheit. The selling a tour guide is highly recommended to do its
point of this museum has to be the perfect history true justice. The Stasi Museum is a
preservation of Erich Mielkes office space on must for anyone interested in the Cold War or
the 2nd floor. He was head of the Stasi from the evil that humanity is capable of.
1957, until shortly after the fall of the Berlin
Wall in 1989. Walking through this floor might
feel familiar if youve seen Deutschland 83 or
The Lives of Others, both were filmed here.
The authenticity is eerie, a perfect snapshot
into East German aesthetics during the Cold
War. You get a real feel of the paranoid atmos-
phere just by walking through where Mielke
worked. Small details like aperfectly preserved
kitchen, complete with the hand-written note
that his assistant kept to remind her everyday
of how he liked his breakfast set out.

The Stasi was responsible for protecting the


state. In other words, for upholding the Ger- Stasi Museum, Ruschestrae 103, Haus 1,
man Democratic Republic party, the ipso-facto 10365 Berlin, 030 5536854, MonFri 10am-
leaders of East Germany from 1949-1990. 6pm, SatSun 11am-6pm. 6 adults, 3 stu-
They did this by spying on over 6 million peo- dents, 4.50 concession. Reduced prices for
ple, often by any means necessary, enlisting large groups and tours avaliable.
wives, husbands and even children to spy on http://www.stasimuseum.de/
their own friends and family. The Stasi files

49
The Jewish Museum
Anna Sagar

The Jewish Museum in Kreuzberg is a unique


museum in Berlin. Originally founded in 1933,
it was reinvented in 2001 and is now one of
biggest Jewish museums in Europe. Covering
various historical periods from the Middle Ages
to the present day, the collection succeeds in
giving a diverse portrait of Jewish life in Ger-
many.

In typical Berlin fashion, the building is as


much of an attraction as whats inside. Daniel
Libeskinds iconic de-constructivist building
brutally encapsulates the troubled past of
Jewish Germany. With angular zig zag lines,
gashes for windows and silver zinc walls the
overall effect is haunting.

There is much to admire in the permanent


collection. One of the first things you see as
you enter is a steep staircase that breaks off
in to three walkways denoting death, exile and
continuity: the three fates for Jews of the Hol-
ocaust. The striking visual representation cuts
right to the core.

Whilst a large part of their collection focuses


on history there are also other things to see
here. One exhibit showcases the varied cultur-
al contributions of important figures, such as
Moses Mendelson, Felix Nussbaum and Levi
Strauss. Another room goes into the specifics
of Jewish holiday traditions, giving a nice per-
sonal touch to the museum.

The aim of this museum is to show you that


there is much to learn about German Jewish
history. From Romans to the Age of Enlight-
enment, Jewish identity plays a crucial role in
German society. The museum allows you to
see Jewish triumphs, as well as their trage-
dies, showing the true complexity of German
Jewish history and culture.

Jewish Museum, Lindenstrae 9-14, 10969 Berlin, Mon


10am-10pm, Tues-Sun 10am-8pm, Standard ticket 8 ,
Concession 3 , https://www.jmberlin.de/en

50 MUSEUMS
The Deutsches History
The exhibition runs through to Germany divid-
Museum ed, finishing on exhibits of the joyous moments
of Germanys reunification. In the second part,
Rachael Daly
standing grandly around the main entrance
The Deutsches History Museum, located on hall, you will come face to face with many fig-
Museum Island, has established itself as Ger- ures each representing different periods from
manys national historic institution. Opening its Germanys dynamic past.
doors in 1987, the museum is positioned in the
Zeughaus, Berlins former armoury, which is the With over 7000 artefacts to see you will witness
oldest building on the famous boulevard of Un- well and lesser known parts of German history,
ter den Linden. ensuring you learn something new on your visit.

Displaying a detailed insight into the past 1500


years of German history in a chronological or-
der, the exhibition is situated over two floors.
Begin on the first floor, which unveils the chang-
es of boundaries in Germany and Europe.
There is also the option to watch a 45-minute
audio-visual showing changes in more detail if
youre a sucker for an historical documentary.

Go up to the second floor and youll see a wide


range of history, from the French Revolution to
the founding of the German Empire. Youll see
artefacts such as the portrait of Charlemagne
dating back to 1514, and a coat worn by Frie-
drich II.

Discover the historical events in World War


One and Two. The collection of World War 2 ar-
tefacts is particularly enticing, such as the Nazi Deutsches History Museum, Unter den Linden 2, 10117,
Mon-Sun 10am-6am, Standard ticket 8, Audio guides
partys original flags and the chilling article an- available, https://www.dhm.de/en.html .
nouncing Hitlers death.

51
Introduction

52 GALLERIES
East Side Gallery
Mary Upton

When it comes to memorialising events,


Berlin often turns to art in order to ex-
press a connection to its past. There is
perhaps no other memorial that demon-
strates this more so than the East Side
Gallery. The gallery was established in
1990, just one year after the official fall
of the Berlin Wall. A 1.3-kilometre-long
spectacle of history and art, it is the long-
est open-air gallery in the world and con-
sists of over 100 different pieces by as
many artists around the globe. By 1991,
the gallery obtained official memorial
status and is one of Berlins major attrac-
tions.
comparison. The East Side Gallery is a
Unlike orthodox galleries, the East Side
great way to try and visualise the collec-
Gallery is open 24/7. As you can touch
tive feeling in Berlin after 1989 and is the
and get so close to the art you can ex-
perfect experience for those who enjoy
pect to feel very connected to the me-
history, art or culture.
morial. Maintenance of the wall is also
kept on top of well. A large portion of it
East Side Gallery: Mhlenstrae, Frie-
was renovated in 2009, after facing the
drichshain/Kreuzberg, The Wall Mu-
brunt of weathering and vandalism. One
seum: Mhlenstae 78-80, Mon-Sun
of the most renowned, albeit controver-
10am-7pm, Standard ticket 12.50 ,
sial pieces, is Meine Gott hilf mir, diese
Student ticket 6.50
tdliche Liebe zu berleben by Russian
painter Dmitri Wrubel, which is a must-
see when visiting the gallery. It depicts
the original photo of the socialist kiss,
between politicians Leonid Brezhnev
and Erich Honecker and truly encapsu-
lates the array of political opinions Berlin
encountered during the twentieth centu-
ry. 53

If youre intrigued further by the ways


in which the wall itself continues to be
remembered the Wall Museum is close
by. The Berlin Wall Memorial on Ber-
nauer Strae also offers an interesting

53
Alte Nationalgalerie
Anna Sagar

Standing in front of the Roman-style temple


of the Alte Nationalgalerie you have to re-
mind myself that you are in Berlin. The shady
colonnades, symmetrical green lawns and
ornate fountain seem like it has been taken
straight out of antiquity, which is perhaps the
point. The Alte Nationalgaleries collection
primarily consists of 19th century art, which
range in scope from neoclassical, romantic,
Biedermeier and impressionist paintings to
early modernism.

Whilst the French impressionist paintings


on display hold the most sway with visitors -

Introduction
Monet, Cezanne, and Gauguin for example
- there is definitely more to this gallery than
first meets the eye. Rooms specifically ded-
icated to artists like Karl Friederich Schin-
kel, as well as rooms dedicated to art move-
ments in and around Germany, offers insight
in to 19th century period of German history
that may not be as well known to non-Ger-
mans. The museum lends itself well to wan-
dering, with bigger rooms showcasing more
famous artists, interspersed with smaller
rooms with lots of hidden gems, which are
explained in depth in the inclusive audio
guide. The moody landscapes of Caspar
David Friedrich are a particular highlight.

As part of Berlins Museum Island the Alte


Nationalgalerie benefits from its proximi-
ty with the Pergamon Museum and Neues
Museum less than a stones throw away. As
with the other attractions on Berlins Muse-
um Island an early start is recommended,
but the gallery is open until 6pm during the
week which allows for a less frenzied visit.

Alte Nationalgalerie, Bodestrae 1-3, 10178 Berlin,


Closed Mon, Tues-Wed 10am-6m, Thurs 10am-
8pm, Fri-Sun 10am-6pm, Standard ticket 10 ,
Concessions 5 , http://www.smb.museum/mu-
seen-und-einrichtungen/alte-nationalgalerie/home.
html

54 GALLERIES
Berlinische Galerie skeletal people with shaven heads, staring
Matilda Haymes outwards from a dark canvas. Berlinische
Galerie gives artists silenced in the 20th
As its name suggests, the Berlinische century a voice, and creates a platform for
Galerie focuses solely on art in Berlin, using previously censored art to be truly appreci-
works created in the city to portray its tu- ated.
multuous history. The permanent collection
features artwork created between 1880 and The ground floor of the gallery houses tem-
1980 exemplifying the diverse artistic pro- porary exhibitions from more contemporary
gression throughout this period. Although artists and has been extremely diverse,
only featuring artwork from one century, ranging from a short film about 20th century
Berlins changeful history has resulted in a Italian cinema, to a graffiti exhibition about
vast array of different artistic styles, giving the Iraq War.
you
55 an engaging range of artwork to look at.
The gallery is laid out chronologically, taking There is also a small shop as you exit, con-
you on a journey through Berlin, from the taining a large collection of specialist art
height of the Prussian Empire to the fall of books.
the Berlin Wall.

The Berlinische Galerie successfully inter-


weaves the political and artistic history of
the 20th century, with various panels around
the gallery detailing each decades devel-
opments. One of the panels states that the
gallery believes they have a moral duty to
uncover the tales of works created by peo-
ple persecuted under the National Social- Berlinische Galerie, Alte Jakobstrae 124-128,
ists. A particularly powerful piece is a 1930s 10969 Berlin, 030 78902600, Weds-Mon 10am-
6pm, Adults 8, Concessions 5, Every 1st
piece titled The Prisoners, depicting three
Monday of the month 4, https://www.berlinische-
galerie.de/en/home/

55
Haus Der Kulturen Der grammes continue for several years. 100
Years of Now, for example, is a four-year
Welt - House of the project exploring historical utopias, the de-
velopment of the nation state and the mod-
Worlds Cultures ernisation of ideologies.
Mary Upton
Time and time again, Berlin stylistical-
ly manages to explore politics and history
Dubbed the Schwangere Auster or preg-
through art and expression. If youre in Ber-
nant oyster due to its unusual architectural
lin for a while then the House of the Worlds
design, the House of the Worlds Cultures
Cultures is great for those who enjoy the
is exactly what the name suggests. On the
wider discussion of current international af-
northern outskirts of Tiergarten next to the
fairs. Be sure to check whats on before you
River Spree, this building can be found hid-
turn up through their website. However, if
den behind the trees almost as if it doesnt
your visit is fleeting then perhaps you would
belong there.
prefer to seek out events that specifically fo-
cus upon German culture.
An epicentre for international cultural and
artistic diversity, the venue hosts an assort- Haus der Kulturen der Welt, John-Foster-Dulles
]
ment of exhibitions, lectures and presenta- Allee 10, 10557 Berlin, Closed Tues, Wed-Mon
tions. Here, art and culture are explored in 11am-7pm, Standard tickets start at 4 , https://
various ways to incorporate the further think- www.hkw.de/en/
ing of topical ideas and themes. Although
missing a permanent collection, some pro-

56 GALLERIES
Hamburger One room is set up like a liv-
ing room, with the television
Bahnhof showing a video about con-
temporary American politics,
Matilda Haymes
set up in the format of a vid-
eo game.
An amalgamation of both
visual and sonic installa-
Dont expect a classical or
tions, the Hamburger Bah-
traditional gallery experi-
nhof Gallery boasts an
ence; Hamburger Bahnhof
eclectic collection of con-
features exclusively large-
temporary artwork from
scale contemporary pieces.
across the globe. The per-
The gallery is intensely in-
manent collection, located in
teractive; with the majority
the west wing, is more tra-
of exhibits forcing the view-
ditional and features mostly
er to step inswide in order
paintings from well-known
to experience them. This is
artists such as Andy War-
even true of the hallways.
hol and Roy Liechtenstein.
An imitation underground
The east wing is home to
station named Hamburger
the temporary collections. In
Bhf, complete with sections
the past this has included a
of graffiti, connects the two
wider range of artwork from
wings of the gallery.
satirical fairytale films to an
empty room playing broken
A unique and enigmatic col-
musical instruments found
lection, the Hamburger Bah-
in battlefields.
nhof is a must-see for any
This is a more expensive
gallery but you will get a contemporary art fan.
Hamburger Bahnhof Gallery,
lot for your admission fee. Invalidinstrae 50-51, 10557,
Hamburger Bahnhof fea- Berlin, Adults14 , Concessions7
tures a diverse collection of , http://www.smb.museum/mu-
completely original exhibits. seen-und-einrichtungen/hamburg-
er-bahnhof/home.html

57
Introduction
Kunst-Werke Institute ited to look like George Bush and Tony
Blair. The art featured here is often in-
for Contemporary Art tensely political. Artists featured in the
KW Institute consistently create a pow-
Matilda Haymes
erful commentary with the world around
A small, relatively niche gallery, the KW it by boldly critiquing controversial, con-
Institute showcases an eclectic mix of temporary issues.
contemporary art. Its aim is to expose its
visitors to lesser known artists and cel- The admission costs are fairly typical
ebrate their uniqueness. The collections for Berlin, but for those travelling on
here are not permanent, and change a budget it is recommended to visit on
roughly every three months. It is advis- Thursday evenings, as entrance is free.
able for you to check the current exhi- After browsing the artwork, you can vis-
bitions online before you visit, because it the small caf in the quiet courtyard,
they are extremely variable. perfect to sit and unwind in, perhaps with
a book purchased from the shop at the
One thing that the KW Institute can al- entrance of the museum.
ways guarantee however is the unusual.
Previous exhibits have featured a huge
Kunst-Werke Institute for Contemporary Art,
room, filled with hundreds of printed love Augustrae 69, 10117 Berlin, Closed Tues,
letters on scrolls written in response to Wed & Fri-Mon 11am-7pm, Thurs 11am-9pm,
overly friendly junk-mail messages, con- Standard ticket 8 , Concession ticket 6 ,
trasted with a sandy bunker, showing a Free admission Thurs 6-9pm, http://www.
video of actors sobbing, having been ed- kw-berlin.de/en/

58 GALLERIES
Knig Galerie
Mary Upton

The Knig Galerie, established in 2002


by Johann Knig, can be found in multi-
ple locations in the city. In what was once
a 1960s Catholic church, the second
Knig Galerie now resides. The church
of St Agnes was designed by Werner
Dttmann and the striking Brutalism ar-
chitecture works as a great canvas for
the exciting art held by the gallery. Al-
though Knig represents 38 different art-
ists, here there are a maximum of four
temporary exhibitions on display at any
one time. The gallery is small and inti-
mate, making it great for a passing visit
or if theres a particular piece of work you
wish to see.

Previous displays at Kreuzberg have in-


cluded a variety of works, such as instal-
lation art by Monica Bonvicini and paint-
ings by Norbert Bisky. Biskys Trilemma
is a chaotic display of colour and dyna-
mism exploring the pressures and strug-
gles of 21st century society. If you want a
more in-depth viewing of fewer artworks
then Knig Galerie in Kreuzberg is the
place for you. The space itself is also an
architectural marvel that will enhance
your overall experience.

Knig Galerie, 118-121, Alexandrinenstrae


118, 10969 Berlin, Tues-Sun 11am-6pm, Fri
11am-9pm, free admission, http://www.koenig-
galerie.com

59
60 SHOPPING
Mauerpark Flea Market pocketers. Dont let this deter you, as the
Amy Finn markets uplifting ambience will reinstate
your faith in humanity upon moments of
Above all else, the Mauerpark Flea Mar- your arrival. With the sounds of Bearpit
ket should be prided on one thing alone: Karaoke echoing nearby, punters are
diversity. The assortment of characters treated to a unique shopping experi-
at Mauerpark encourages locals and ence accompanied by a soundtrack of
tourists alike to haggle their way into the merriment and laughter. Rivalling a mu-
festivities. sic festival in terms of atmosphere and
people looking to have a good time, a
The markets variety is also celebrated sun-drenched Sunday at Mauerpark is a
through the plethora of goods on offer. weekly must.
Boasting an eclectic range of food, fash-
ion and furniture with everything from
chess boards to cameras, shoppers
can rest assured their visit will prom-
ise something for everyone. Rummage
through the array of stalls and be sure to
pit stop your journey with breaks for food
and drink along the way. Near the mar-
kets entrance, a dessert stall supplies
lavish portions of apple strudel proved
to be particularly successful in refuelling
even the keenest of shoppers.

Although the markets great acclaim


has prompted its popularity, the hustle
and bustle of eager crowds has unfor- Mauerpark Flea Market, Bernauer Str.
tunately become a breeding site for pick 3-4, 13355, Berlin, Sun 9am-6pm

61
Humana Second Hand
& Vintage
Emma Seabuckthorn

Humana is a chain of second hand shops


both across Germany and within Berlin,
but goes further as a project, founded in
1986. Their ethos is to promote sustaina-
ble fashion and conscious consumption. At
the Frankfurter Tor branch they hold regu-
lar events like parties, DJs and awareness
events, information about which can bwe
found in-store. The shop is adorned with
posters from past events, giving a commu- pieces off the computer screen, where on-
nity-like feel. line shops almost always overcharge you.

The first thing you notice when you step The branch is highly organised by colour
into this store is its huge scale. Sprawling and type of clothing and prices are low in
across five floors, the choice is vast. Quality comparison to UK vintage stores. Their
is definitely high compared to most run-of- aim is apparent, which is reassuring after a
the-mill second-hand shops, and there is a money splurge. Your wallet may be lighter
range of items; from bridalwear to interior but at least its sustainable.
homeware. On the top floor is a specialist
vintage section for more unique pieces that Humana Second Hand & Vintage, Frankfurter
are authentically from the past. For most, Tor 3, 10243 Berlin, 030 4222018, Mon-Sat
this floor is Humanas selling point. Its re- 10am-8pm, Closed Sun, http://www.huma-
freshing to see original, high-quality vintage na-second-hand.de

62 SHOPPING
Kurfrstendam
Anna Sagar

Kurfrstendam (more collo- A trip to Kudamm would


quially known as Kudamm) not be complete without vis-
has had many incarnations. iting the famed Kaufhaus
Originally a path to ferry Prus- de Westens (KadeWe), the
sian Royals toward their hunt- cherry on top of Kudamms
ing grounds in Grunewald, it shopping glory. Opened
became a symbol of capitalist in 1907 this is Berlins old-
defiance in the West Berlin est and most luxurious de-
area, becoming synonymous partment store. With luxury
with conspicuous consump- brands, gourmet food and
tion. It is now one of the bus- home goods it is worth go-
iest shopping avenues in Eu- ing just to gawk at the shoe
rope, encompassing luxury hall alone.
boutiques and flagship stores
of high street fashion.
For the opposite of estab-
lished then Bikini Berlin will
The best place to start your definitely pique your inter-
Kudamm pilgrimage is at est. It describes itself as
Adanauerplatz (U-Bahn, U7), the first concept mall, as all
then walk back on yourself the stores within it are pop-
towards Pronovias flagship. up. Blink and youll miss it.
Along this section admire all Constantly changing and
the high-fashion shop fronts, constantly interesting it is a
whose displays are art works great spot to catch young
in themselves. It is also a new designers.
prime spot for people watch-
ing the glitterati of Berlin.
It is not just shopping on
Kudamm. Other sites
Around Joachimsthaler Strae that may be of interest in
the shops start to change in to Kudamm is The Story of
bigger department stores and Berlin which is an interac-
flagship stores. For a great tive museum about Berlins
coffee stop then Caf Kran- history, with a tour through a
zler is your best bet. To get nuclear bunker. Also not to
in there go in to the Superdry be missed is the Kaiser Wil-
store and up the spiral stairs helm Memorial Church.
for a great panoramic view.
Their coffee and cake is sec-
ond to none.

63
Neuklln Flea Market
Anna Sagar

Flea markets are part of the fabric of


everyday Berlin life. Famous flea mar-
kets like Mauerpark to Boxhagener
Strae have been attracting bigger and
bigger crowds. Whilst this is fantastic for
keeping flea market culture alive it can
be a battle to frequent these more pop-
ular locations. For those looking to get a
bit off the beaten track then Neuklln flea
market is perfect for you.

Every second Sunday of the month May-


bachufer along the Landwehr Canal stu-
dents, artists and designers descend to
sell their wares. From intricate handmade
jewellery, brightly printed shirts to 1950s
ornaments there are many diamonds
in the rough at this bohemian paradise.
Vendors especially appreciate the effort
if you try to haggle in German.

Although smaller than its other flea mar-


ket cousins, this actually works in its
favour as it is less prone to the tourist
traffic jams of Mauerpark. Here you can
see neighbours debating issues of the
day whilst selling each other homemade
coffee and cake. It is this relaxed atmos-
phere that makes it stand out from the
crowd.

Though it is a seasonal fixture, Neuklln


market is a great place to experience a
more relaxed and local Berlin. Be sure
to check the website so that you are not
disappointed.

Neuklln Fleamarket, Maybachufer 31,


12047 Berlin, Every other Sun 10am-
5pm, http://www.nowkoelln.de/

64 SHOPPING
Kleidermarkt Garage
Emma Seabuckthorn

When you first enter, the sheer volume of


clothing on offer here is astonishing. You
can easily lose yourself for hours sifting
through rows and rows of vintage wear.
Coupled with an 80s classics soundtrack
and trendy staff, theres a cool, informal
vibe here.

Garage charges you a set price per kilo. The


staff often pick out some desirable pieces
to be priced individually but their policy is
largely quantity-over-quality, meaning you
can grab a lot of clothes at incredibly low
prices.
So, head to Garage for your fix of vintage
If youre looking for a massive expanse with binge-shopping. Be sure to look out for their
loads of clothing then this is the place to happy hour on Wednesdays between 11am
go. If youre looking for a vintage-boutique and 1pm - where its 30% off.
with some high-quality, one-off pieces,
then perhaps search elsewhere. Garage
is unapologetically cheap-and-cheerful
and rest assured you are bound to come
across a gem amongst the sheer volume Kleidermarkt Garage, Ahornstrae 2, 10787 Berlin,
of choice, but it is a very typical example of Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-6pm, Closed Sun,
a kilo store. http://kleidermarkt.de/html/fil-ber-ahorn.html

65
Do You Read Me?!
Amy Finn
on offer. Whilst prices divert substantially
Dedicated to magazines, journals and
above your average weekly glossy, the

Introduction
literature alike, Do You Read Me?! pro-
investment of both time and money is re-
vides a small escape from a world large-
warded by the joy uncovered through the
ly embedded in the digital age
art of reading.
.
Founded in 2008, the store has since
become a hub for creatives. Their se-
lection spans the fields of print and pho-
tography, art and design, and fashion
and literature. Drawing together the eyes
of both readers and publishers, Do You
Read Me?! is a refuge for those looking
to immerse themselves under pages of
eloquent and respected works of writing.

With shelves housing an array of liter-


ature, the writing is well and truly upon
the wall in terms of the stores undenia-
ble variety. The diversity of literary works
is what makes this place unique, with
everything from travel journals to femi-
nist magazines stacked side by side. The
contrast of style and form only encourag-
es readers to think outside of their own
personal box and discover unbeknown
passions along the way.
Do You Read Me?!, Agustrae 28, 10117, Ber-
Promising a space for reflection, Do You lin, Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm, Closed Sun, http://
Read Me?! simultaneously leaves read- www.doyoureadme.de
ers restless to discover more of whats

66 SHOPPING
Fassbender & Rausch
Amy Finn

Situated in the heart of Gendarmenmarkt


Square, the sheer grandeur of Fassbend-
er & Rausch does little to parallel your
local sweet shop. Hosting a banquet of
Berlin landmarks such as the Branden-
burg Gate and the CCTV Tower in none
other than chocolate form, Fassbender &
Rausch is a showcase of craftsmanship
and skill. Whilst this may not be consid-
ered a budget option for those looking
to satisfy a sweet tooth, the stores aes-
thetic is pleasing to the eye at the very
least. If appetites cannot be quenched
by vision alone, however, treats of a less
towering scale can be indulged from as
little as 25 cents to rival those of a higher
price point.

Occasionally rich in expense, the stores


true value lies in the wealth of both fla-
vour and originality at the heart of each
creation. Boasting a range of unique
and refined recipes such as the iconic
Rausch Plantagen- Schokolade, Fass-
bender & Rausch also delivers an array
of biscuits, marzipans and truffles which
cater for every craving. Enjoy such spe-
cialties in the restaurant above the shop;
the menu of which is exclusively choco-
late-based.

Fassbender & Rausch is an experience


which indulges far beyond the taste
buds alone. With a range to satisfy every
sense and expense, the chocolatiers di-
versity is its winning ingredient.

Fassbender & Rausch, Charlottenstrae 60,


10117 Berlin, Shop: MonSat 10am-8pm, Sun
11am-8pm, Chocolate Caf: MonSun 11am-
8pm, https://www.rausch.de/en/schokoladen-

67
Liquidrom
Emma Seabuckthorn

Introduction
Before you even enter the Liquidrom spa you

Tropical Islands Berlin


are greeted with a sci-fi vibe from the futuristic
architecture outside. The ambiance continues
inside. You have the chance to float idly in their Kieran Gale
renowned salt-water pool under the psyche-
delic lighting and music plays that you must be If youre looking for an utterly extraordinary ex-
fully submerged underwater to hear. The music perience, Tropical Islands Berlin is one of a kind
varies from classical to techno and regular DJ waterpark extravaganza. The gigantic biodome
events are also held here. is a forty-minute train journey from Alexander-
platz, and even has its own train station and
The pool is the only area of the spa where a bus service. Inside the biodome you are met
bathing costume is required but in other areas with a self-contained replica of a tropical island,
you are expected to be naked, which is perhaps complete with bars, waterfalls and waterslides.
something to bear in mind before you go. There Here, there is something for all ages. Shallow
are four different saunas to choose from and pools for the kids, water rapids for the teenag-
also a steam room as well. Their aufguss, or in- ers and beaches with loungers for the adults in
fusions, schedule can be found online and take need of a healthy respite. At first the environ-
place hourly in the Finnish sauna at no extra ment seems rather surreal and even dystopian.
cost. Massages are available but these must be But after an hour of exploration and fun, Trop-
booked in advance and paid for on top of the ical Islands becomes a comfortable escape
entrance fee. Admission to the saunas and pool from the world.
does not need to be booked in advance and
you can choose to visit for between two hours If a day trip doesnt suffice, the Islands offer
and the entire day. After youve exhausted their holiday packages including overnight stays and
range of saunas, relax in the outdoor jacuzzi professional massages. The cost varies upon
or recline in a lounger by the bar that serves a the package you chose, but overall the prices
range of refreshments and snacks. are reasonable for such a unique experience.

Tropical Islands Berlin, Tropical-Islands-Allee


1, 15910 Krausnick, Mon-Sun 10am-10pm,
Liquidrom Mckernstrae 10, 10963 Berlin, Day tickets start at 28.50 , www.tropical-is-
Sun-Thurs 9am-12am, Fri-Sat 9am-1am, Two lands.de/en/tropical-world/
hours 19.50 , Four hours 24.50 , All day

68 ALTERNATIVE
Schawrzlicht Mini Golf
Charlie Marx
The geometric ramp room in particular is very
Schwarzlicht Mini Golf, situated on the north- tricky, but offers up the most stunning visuals
east corner of Gorlitzer Park, provides all the of all the sections. You can also purchase 3D
fun and distraction of normal mini golf with a glasses for an extra 1.50 to intensify the visual
twist; its completely ultraviolet. This psyche- experience, although this is not recommended
delic golfing experience offers up the usual for difficult shots. Price of participation is 5.50
mixture of ramps, obstacles and mechanical per-round.
impediments, with the added dimension of the
near-total darkness. Given the area, this venue is not family friendly.
As an unconventional way to begin a night out
This is contrasted against the luminescent art- in Kreuzberg, however, it excels; being open
work adorning the walls - and your ball of until 10PM weeknights and midnight on week-
futuristic cityscapes, enchanted Berlin and flu- ends. Just dont wear white.
orescent botanical scenery. There are five art-
ist-designed rooms in total, all of various difficul- Schwarzlicht UV Mini Golf, Grlitzer Str. 1,
ty levels, making sure everyone from beginners 10997 Berlin, Mon-Thurs: 2PM-10PM, Fri:
to experts have something new to attempt. 2PM-12AM, Sat: 10AM-12AM, Sun: 10AM-
10PM, 5.50 per-round (4.50 concessions),
http://minigolf-in-berlin.de/?page_id=2

69
Bearpit Karaoke
Carrie Hutchison
pick performers from that section. But, even if
you rock up later, spaces free up continuously.
Karaoke. En masse. For free. A recipe for suc-
Its also worth coming with a song pre-prepared
cess with results worthy of the hype. Every Sun-
as, while lyrics are shown on a small laptop,
day among the festivities of Mauerpark, such
theyre difficult to read.
as its renowned flea market the sweet sounds
of Bearpit Karaoke fill the air.
The concept of a tough crowd does not exist
here. Attendees lavish cheers and applause
Droves of tourists and locals alike flock here, no
upon acts of all proficiencies and are kept in
matter the weather. For limelight seekers head
high spirits by drinks vendors who heave their
there early for the expensive seats near the
crates around the amphitheatre. So, even if
centre. Joe, the British showrunner, will mostly
youre not inclined to get up and strut your stuff,
have no fear, the majority of the fun to be had is
among the crowd.

One thing to be wary of are the pickpockets that


frequent Mauerpark. But if youre sensibly cau-
tious and up for a laugh and sing-a-long there is
no better place to be than the Bearpit Karaoke.
And, if Despacito plays, get ready to join a stage
full of swaying hips and fancy-ish footwork.

Bearpit Karaoke, Mauerpark Berlin, 10437


Berlin, Sun 3-7pm, Free admission, www.bear-
pitkaraoke.com

70 ALTERNATIVE
A smuggler does not see you as a person, only
as the money you have paid him.

Stopping at Checkpoint Charlie, the guide talks


about the life of a refugee. From the risks of
crossing the Mediterranean to the red tape of
European bureaucracy, the guide draws atten-
tion to the hostility faced in reaching their new
homes. He implores his group not to label him
as a refugee, but as an individual. He asks for
people to look at the cause of the refugee crisis,
not its symptoms.

German history shows that things can get bet-


ter for refugees.

A short U-Bahn away from there, the tour finish-


es at a modest Syrian restaurant, Mandi. There,
the group has a chance to engage with the Syri-
an people and their culture on a more personal
level. Enjoying a glass of chai and a range of
The Syrian Refugee Tour dishes for only 8 , the pleasant surroundings
allow for a chance to reflect on the tour; to see
Graeme Acres
the Syrian patrons for what they are. Not refu-
gees, just people. With hopes, dreams and sur-
Germany has one of the largest intakes of Syr-
prises all of their own.
ian refugees in Europe. Under such circum-
stances, the Syrian Refugee Tour exists to
raise awareness of their experiences. Occur-
ring every Saturday and Sunday, it survives en-
tirely upon donations.

The guide is a polite, friendly man with a posi-


tive energy and an equally painful story to tell.
Fearing his family members still in Syria may
be put at risk, he refuses to be named or pho-
tographed.

Be careful, my son. The walls have ears.

The tour takes around 90 minutes, including a


walk to several East German landmarks. This
includes places like Detlev Rohwedder Haus
and the Topography of Terror, where the guide
draws parallels to life under the al-Assad re-
gime. At each site, he uses a mixture of first-
hand experiences and factual information to
Syrian Refugee Tour, U-Bahn Mohrenstrae,
inform the group. Each fact is cited, with the
10117 Berlin, Sat 3pm, Sun 11am, Free admis-
guide encouraging the group to look them up
sion but donations recommended.
themselves. Every experience is personal, al-
ways involving a neighbour, a friend, or even a
family member.

71
The Bowie Tour of Berlin

72 ALTERNATIVE
In Bowie Ice Cream youll find a sweet interpre-
Anna Sagar tation of Bowies greatness. In light of Bowies
death Cuore de Vitto created two special ice
White Duke. Aladdin Sane. Ziggy Stardust. He creams, Black Star and White Duke. Get here
has had many names, but it is said that in Berlin early, especially in summer, as these special
David Bowie was truly himself. Bowie came to editions sell out quickly.
Berlin in the mid-70s to escape the stresses of
post-modern pop star fame. The city gave him Cuore di Vetro, Max-Beer-Strae 33, 10119 Berlin,
an opportunity to be anonymous, to recover, to Mon 12pm-11pm, Tues-Fri 9am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10am-
11pm, http://www.cuoredivetro.berlin/
reinvent himself. Eschewing stage personas
the Berlin Trilogy is Bowie at his most authentic.
The Paris Bar is a classier establishment sell-
In later life he called the music he made here
ing the best steak frites in town according to
his DNA. Through this tour you will see his fa-
Bowie. Iggy Pop and Bowie would come to cel-
vourite sites in Berlin, and how he continues to
ebrate special occasions here. One infamous
live on in the city today.
Rolling Stone interview described Iggy as so
drunk he rolled around in the ice outside of the
In Hansa Studios Heroes and Low was re-
bar. Sit at a table in this bohemian haven, and
corded. The original view over the Berlin Wall
splurge on great food and drink.
proved to be inspirational for the song Heroes.
Bowie would see his producer Tony Visconti Paris Bar, Kantstrasse 152, Mon-Sun 12pm-2am, http://
kiss his mistress by the wall, and admiring the www.parisbar.net/
determination of the couple commemorated the SO36, Oranienstrae 190, 10999 Berlin, http://so36.de/
moment in song. It is still a working studio; how-
ever tours are available.
SO36, the birthplace of punk, was a favourite
Hansa Tonstudio, Kthener Str. 38/D, 10963 Berlin, haunt of Bowies. The area around this club still
http://www.hansastudios.de/english/ has the hectic feel of the 70s, full of street art,
Neues Ufer, Hauptstrae 157, 10827 Berlin, Mon-Sun
2pm-2am independent shops and dive bars. Explore the
night life here, and hit up the SO36 night flea
On Hauptstrasse, an unassuming street in market to see if you can find any Bowie mem-
Schneberg, Iggy Pop and Bowie once lived. orabilia.
Unfortunately, you cant enter the flat, but the
bar up the street is still steeped in Bowie his-
tory. Neues Ufer, formerly Anderes Ufer, was a
legendary gay caf where the pair used to hang
out. Portraits of Bowie and album covers hang
everywhere making it almost shrine like.

Bowies flat, Hauptstrae 155, 10827 Berlin

The contents of the Brcke Museum were


a great stimulus for Bowie. The melancholic
mood of Erich Heckels art in particular really
spoke to Bowie, inspiring some of his album
covers. A bit further out of the city it is still not to
be overlooked.

Brcke Museum, Bussardsteig 9, Mon 11am-5pm,


Closed Tues, Wed-Sun 11am-5pm, http://www.
bruecke-museum.de/

73
Kinos of Berlin
Emmi Harris

Visiting a cute, old-fashioned kino is one of the


best ways to get an authentic feel for Berlins al-
ternative art scene. Berlins fabulous mix of film
institutions is no more evident than within these
three of the citys quirkiest cinemas.

Eva Light Games


Translated to Eva Lichtspiele in German, this
cinema radiates chic-ness from the very out-
set. Jazz music plays in the entrance so that
as soon as you walk through the door, you in-
stantly feel as if you are stepping back in time
to the 1920s. Neon lights and a red carpet mark
the doorway, reminiscent of old-school Holly-
wood glamour. As the oldest film theatre in Wil-
mersdorf, the dated interior really captures a
feeling of genuine tradition. English films which
have been shown here include Walk With Me,
a documentary film about the journey to mind- es of art to be enjoyed in their own right. One
fulness. This cinema only opens from Sunday room for example, installed with hot pink chairs
to Wednesday, so go early in the week to avoid and ceilings beaming with brightly illuminated
disappointment. shapes, casts the impression of an art installa-
tion.
Eva Light Games, Blissestrae 18, 10713, Berlin, Sun
Wed 11am- 10pm, Standard tickets 8 , http://www. Delphi Lux Cinema, Kantstrae 10, 10623, Berlin, Mon
eva-lichtspiele.de/index.php?p=s Sun 11am-10pm, Standard ticket 7 -10

Cinema Paris
Being a European art house cinema, most films
are shown in French. However, films from al-
ternative European countries are also shown,
each equipped with German subtitles. With
traditional red walls, velvet chairs and a gold
curtain covering the screen, the dcor creates
an atmosphere of old-school grandeur. The
original building was constructed in 1897, un-
dergoing a redesign in 1950 by Hans Semrau
who set out to make the place a French cultural
centre. Cinema Paris hosts regular Art in The
Cinema screenings, featuring documentaries
Delphi Lux Cinema on famous artists and live screenings of ballet
A mix of art house productions, documentary performances. As features change regularly, be
film and international independent cinema are sure to keep up to date with screenings sched-
shown here, in addition to the odd major Holly- uled throughout your stay.
wood blockbuster. However, if youre in search
of some serious artistic films, Delphi Lux has Cinema Paris, Kurfrstendamm 211, 10719, Berlin,
a wide selection running at any one time to MonSun 3pm9pm, Standard ticket 7 -10
choose from. Whatever you watch, the seven
uniquely designed screening rooms are piec-

74 ALTERNATIVE
The Turkish Market
Graeme Acres

The Turkish Market is regular hub of activity for


Berlins sizable Turkish community. It offers a
great selection of goods and a spontaneous
atmosphere which is inviting for natives and
travellers alike.

The Turkish Market offers an assorted range of


goods, failing to sell just one kind of thing. Pass
stalls selling fish and meat or wander over to
sellers declaring their fruit and vegetables the
freshest. Its a place where you can find beau-
tifully embodied headscarves, knockoff iPhone
chargers or t-shirts with copyright infringing
logos.

Before deciding to buy anytwhing, stroll down


the street and walk along the canal. Some
vendors sell similar goods for less or you may
even find a vendor who is offering something
less-than-common. When you think youve
seen everything, youll go a little further and
spot a vendor selling sugar cane juice or catch
the smell of Turkish kuche and borek. Reach
the end and you may see a three-man band
performing to a small crowd, perched on bales
of hay. With the Turkish Market, its best to ex-
plore first and decide later.

The Turkish Market, Maybachufer, 10999,

75
TO EAT
CAFES - RESTAURANTS - BARS - QUIRKY EATS

CAFS
Shakespeare & Sons the back of the cafe and browse their collec-
Emma Seabuckthorn tion of books. The atmosphere is relaxed,
making it a good place to catch up on some
Home to self-professed Fine Bagels, work or just to spend a few hours reading
Shakespeare & Sons, a caf-bookshop hy- and enjoying the vibe. For optimum peace
brid, is the perfect pitstop to rewind for a few and quiet, theres a computer-free room at
hours in an exciting area of Berlin. The food the back of the cafe.
selection caters to vegetarians, vegans and
meat-eaters alike. There is an extensive Shakespeare & Sons is a must for anyone
selection of bagels, from zaatar to poppy looking for both a bite to eat and with a
seed, sesame to cinnamon. Recommend- thirst for knowledge.
ed is the rosemary-sea-salt. If youre not a
bagel lover, theres also daily-changing sal-
ads, sandwiches and loads of sweet treats
to choose from. To drink you can choose
from smoothies, pressed juices, coffee, a
respectable range of teas and hot fruit juic-
es served with cinnamon.

The bookshop stocks a range of authors


and genres in both English and French,
spanning across the ages. Not only do they
stock better-known, more mainstream titles,
but also a range of more niche, new titles;
from easy-reading Paolo Coehlo to the ac-
ademic philosopher-psychoanalyst Slavoj
Zizek. After ordering the Hummus 3, heier
Apfelsaft mit Zimt (hot apple juice with cin- Shakespeare & Sons, Warschauer Strae
namon) and a vegan chocolate cookie, you 74, 10243 Berlin, Mon-Sat 9am-8pm, Sun
can retreat to one of the comfy bar seats at 10am-8pm, http://www.shakesbooks.de/

77
The Barn Caf
Augustrae
Carrie Hutchison

Calling coffee aficionados of all degrees:


The Barn, a Nordic inspired caf, needs to
be your next refuelling stop. While easily
reachable in Mitte, this is not somewhere for
a rushed cuppa, but a place to widen your
coffee perception. At The Barn you can ex-
pect, and pay for, a finer quality of espresso.
You are encouraged to put away your devic-
es, and strike up a caffeine-inspired conver-
sation with a stranger. This commendable
ethos shines through the slightly cramped,
but effervescent caf.

In keeping with Berlins forward-thinking di-


etary trends, there are vegan sandwiches
and confectionaries in addition to non-vegan
supplies. Though it does lack gluten-free
grub. Yet, the quality of the coffee on offer
outweighs almost any shortcomings. Here
you can experience The Barns own roast
through four different brewing techniques,
AeroPress, Woodneck, V60 or Syphon,
each as good as the last. Their iced latte,
off the summer specials menu, was as
beautifully presented as it was delectable.
Although this option is a bit pricier at 4.50
for a single shot, with any extra shots cost 2
each. But, dont judge a coffee by its price.

The superiority of The Barns coffee is re-


nowned and almost unparalleled in Berlin.
So, go, be sociable, experience Third Wave
coffee excellence and perhaps make some
new friends along the way.

The Barn Caf, Auguststrae 58, 10119


Berlin, Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-
6pm, https://thebarn.de/pages/the-barn-ca-
fe

78 CAFS
flair to a somewhat traditional menu. A.
There are all several options to individu-
alise the menu with nine different extras
on offer, many of which are vegetarian,
and the options of gluten-free bread and
soymilk. All dishes are presented beauti-
fully with as much effort taken to impress
the diners as soon as the dish reaches
their table.

Silo is a more expensive brunch spot,


but is one worth paying for, as you are
unlikely to find such a refined experience
elsewhere. Just try and book in advance
if possible.

Silo Coffee
Matilda Haymes

A modern, airy space filled with minimal-


ist dcor, Silo Coffee is one of the Berlins
most sought-after brunch spots. This is
not a lazy weekend brunch. Silos popu-
larity means that the caf is overflowing,
with several waiters bustling around the
small building at great speed. So, many
cafs in Berlin offer a quiet space to
Silo Coffee, Gariel-Max-Strae 4,
work in, but this is the antithesis of Silos
10245 Berlin, Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm Sat
ideology. Laptop use is banned here dur-
9.30am-7pm, Sun 10am-7pm
ing kitchen hours, ensuring the specialist
nature of the food and coffee to be its
diners focus.

Almost a fine-dining brunch experience,


the quality of Silos food is unparalleled.
The menu is quite classic, primarily fea-
turing avocado and assorted accompa-
niments on toast, but is rejuvenated with
unexpected extras. A chorizo-smoked ra-
tatouille and a cherry tomato jam garnish
are some of the highlights, adding stylish

79
Caf Restaurant Winter- a book in the summer months, the restaurants
dark and atmospheric interiors shelter those

garten at Literaturhaus looking to escape below dimmed lighting and


high ceilings on a cold, rainy day. The book-
Amy Finn shop Kohlhass & Company is also not to be
overlooked, boasting a range of predominantly
With literature residing at the heart of the city, German literature in a space which is equally
Literaturhaus houses a community indulging in as quaint. Whether it be food or literature which
the legacies of authors such as Stefan Zweig. entices your visit, Literaturhaus is undeniably a
Founded as the central literary institution of place to prompt conversation.
West Berlin in 1986, you can engage with the
literary exhibitions and events on display, be-
fore continuing the conversation over good cof-
fee and comfort food in the caf below.

Brimming with conversation, the Caf-Restau-


rant Wintergarten is a social hub for those who
share a passion for the written word. Serving
good value breakfasts until 2pm, Literaturhaus
is notorious for its generous brunch. However,
although main courses may be targeted to-
wards a higher price range, a range of afforda-
ble sandwiches and soups should also pinpoint
Literaturhaus as a preferable lunch destination.
Here, both the menu and accommodating table
service is equally as warming as the restau-
rants serene environment. Literaturhaus, Fasanenstr. 23, 10719 Berlin.
Coffee Shop: Mon-Sun, 9am-12am. Book-
Whilst the scenic garden and conservatory pro- shop: Mon- Fri 10.30am- 7.30pm, Saturday
vide an open space perfect for unwinding over 10.30am-6pm

80 CAFS
Caf Kranzler
Anna Sagar

Caf Kranzler is one of the most iconic


coffeehouses in Berlin. Its distinctive red
and white canopy has been looking over
Kudamm in since 1932, becoming an
institution of sorts amongst West Berlin-
ers. Now, the site is a coffee shop owned
by The Barn, one of the best specialist
coffee chains in Berlin, who seek to en-
sure this caf still retains its icon status.

As you ascend the spiral staircase in


Superdry you are greeted by the buzz
of grinding machines, the fresh scent of
coffee and the hubbub of light conver-
sation. Light jazz music permeates the
room and leaks out onto the balcony,
which is equipped with sun loungers in
the summer. The floor to ceiling glass
window allows for amazing panoramic
views of Kudamm. This is the epitome
of Kaffee Kultur.

The coffee here is exceptional. It is all


freshly roasted on site in Prenzlauer
Berg and precisely prepared for maxi-
mum flavour. Offering multiple brewing
options for your coffee, with increasingly
technical names, prepare for a drink you
will not forget. Whilst this is not a fast
process, the artistic showmanship defi-
nitely makes it worth the wait.

There are a range of snacks to enjoy


with your coffee, including sandwiches,
cakes and pastries that change daily.
Their sweet offerings are particularly fa-
vourable to compliment their incredible
coffee.

Caf Kranzler, Kurfrstendamm 22,


10719 Berlin, Mon-Sun 10am-8pm,
https://the barn.de/pages/cafe-kranzler

81
Coffee Fellows
Kieran Gale

A small, welcoming caf with a specialty curry bagel alone is worth a detour for,
for coffee and bagels, Coffee Fellows is and the vegan options such as the av-
the perfect place to escape hive of activ- ocado bagel will satisfy the hungriest of
ity that is Alexanderplatz. Glancing into visitors, all for a reasonable price. For a
the caf on any given day you will see a more indulgent treat the blueberry muffin
mix of young professionals and students, is a slew of calories you wont regret.
tapping away on laptops or chatting an-
imatedly, sipping on smooth coffee. The
relaxed atmosphere allows for everyone
to feel comfortable, something which the
friendliness of the staff complements
flawlessly.

Should coffee not be your choice of re-


freshment there are a range of teas and
cold drinks on offer, including the Ber- Coffee Fellows, Friedrichstrae 204,
liner staple that is Fritz Cola. Alongside 10117 Berlin, Mon-Sun 7am-10pm,
the drinks is a comprehensive range of https://www. coffee-fellows.com/en/
bagels, salads and cakes. The chicken

82 CAFS
Bonzana Coffee Roasters to seek them out youll notice how their
specialised menu is a rather exclusive.
Mary Upton
But, the overall experience is not as ba-
Over recent years, Berliners have be- sic as their drink selection suggests. The
come increasingly conscious about the interior is calming and completed by the
coffee they drink. The need for good abundance of potted plants. It is an ideal
quality caffeine has made the city an ep- place to study or read, especially as the
icentre for distinguished coffee shops. caf is equipped with charging stations
The Third Wave Coffee movement has and Wi-Fi.
been promoting the importance of good
quality coffee internationally since the The science of coffee is meticulously
early 2000s and is in turn ensuring that considered here and the latte art is ex-
coffee consumption is a more memora- quisite. Ultimately, a great place to check
ble experience. out if time allows or if youre need of a
refined coffee experience.
Coffee lovers; rejoice. Bonanza Coffee
Roasters, found in the Kreuzberg dis-
trict, is the epitome of Third Wave Cof-
fee ideology. The first Bonanza caf,
which can be found in Prenzlauer Berg,
was actually one the pioneering spe-
ciality cafs in Berlin. The companys
passion for coffee has continued to in-
spire internationally for over a decade.
Kreuzberg itself is a great place to find
good coffee aplenty but dont expect to
be stumbling upon Bonanza whilst saun- Bonanza Coffee Roasters, Adalbert-
tering about the city. Its location is very strae 70, 10999 Berlin, Mon- Fri 9am-
secluded so a trip there would definitely 6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm, http://www.
have to be planned. Once you manage bonanzacoffee.de

83
Standard - Serious Pizza imalist restaurant area with its quirky light fit-
tings and impressive wood-fire oven is nothing
Carrie Hutchison like the trattorias of the Mediterranean. Whilst
made in the traditional Neapolitan style, the
When one thinks about great pizza, places food offered up here is distinctly German. Us-
such as Napoli, Rome or Chicago may spring to ing ingredients such as wild boar sausage,
mind. Although Berlin is not usually the most ob- Standard is paving the way for a German pizza
vious choice, Standard is leading the charge in rivoluzione. So, join the fray and feast on some
changing such misconceptions. Here, fresh in- of the best pizza in Berlin.
gredients are combined with classic stone-bak-
ing techniques to make some of the best pizza
to be found outside of Italy.

In Standard, their food is anything but standard.


Their neon sign proudly declares this to diners
in the restaurant. Ranging from the deliciously
simple margaritas, creamy bianca pizzas and
their fresh parma e rucola, there is a pizza to
satisfy every craving. Each ingredient, includ-
ing the fior di latte mozzarella, is meticulously
selected for an end product that is almost un-
paralleled in Berlin. The dough, however, is
the standout contender. Deliciously dough-y in
the centre and with perfectly chewy crusts, you
wont leave a single crumb uneaten.

Pizzas cost anywhere between 9.50 to 17.50


, but the flavour is well worth the expense; you
wont leave Standard feeling either hungry or
hard-done-by. Standards cuisine is matched in
quality by their drinks menu, offering an assort-
ment of wines and soft drinks as well as a few Standard Serious Pizza, Templiner Str. 7,
beers that complement the food faultlessly. 10119 Berlin, Closed Mon, Tues-Fri 6pm-
12am, Sat-Sun 1pm-12am, http://www.stand-
Standard is not your usual pizzeria. The min- ard-berlin.de

84 RESTAURANTS
Chupenga
Charlie Marx

Located on Mohrenstrasse, this authentic Lat-


in restaurant serves up high quality Mexican
fare deli-style. With bright modernist dcor
and geometric decorations hanging from the
ceiling, its guaranteed to be unlike any other
Mexican eating experience youve had before.
The main options are burritos, naked burritos
(sans tortilla) and tacos. The usual offerings of
beef barbacoa, pork carnitas and chicken pollo
are slow cooked and seasoned to perfection.
For veggies and vegans, the inclusion of jack-
fruit confit ensures a full bodied, meaty alter-
native. Fixings like romaine lettuce, fried corn
and black turtle beans are fresh as they come,
and make wonderful additions to your own per-
sonally constructed meal. The salsas on offer
range from crisp, citrusy pico de gallo, through
to a joyously bright salsa verde, and all the way
up to a vibrant salsa roja thats actually spicy.
You can also indulge in some fresh tortilla chips
and homemade guacamole for around 2 ex-
tra. Prices depend on your main choice of meat
or veg, but whatever the choice, your meal typ-
ically ends up under the 10 mark making this
a great choice for fire-mouthed foodies on a Chupenga, Mohrenstrae 42, 10117 Berlin,
budget. Dont forget to grab a cerveza. Mon-Fri: 11:30AM-8PM, Sat/Sun: Closed,
http://www.chupenga.de

85
Madami
Moms Vietnamese Kitchen
Amy Finn

Upon first impression of Madami, the res-


taurants small scale retains the intimacy of
a family home. With tables packed into a
space no bigger than your front living room,
you would be forgiven for thinking the con-
versations of neighbours would rival that of
your own. However, if anything, Madamis
camaraderie is the ingredient to its success.
The clue is in the name, Moms Vietnamese
Kitchen. The restaurant breeds warmth in
the hustle and bustle of its chatter before a
single plate has even been laid.

A feeling not dissimilar from the chaos of


your own family kitchen, Madamis lively
spirit transcends the restaurants ambience
alone. Each course succeeds in satisfying
the soul, with the punchy flavours of favour-
ites such as the Curry Xao and Ga Chien Su
proving to be a winning combination. With
all appetisers reasonably priced at 3.80
and most mains available from under 10 a
head, the scale of Madamis hearty portions
also signal towards their generosity in terms
of value for money.

With little touches such as the rose sculpted


garnishes suggesting each dish is a prod-
uct of nurture, it is fair to say that Madami
serves up the warmest of welcomes. The
comfort of its cooking combined with the fa-
miliarity of its environment succeeds in cre-
ating a space where the diner immediately
feels most at home.

Madami Moms Vietnamese Kitchen,


Rosa-Luxemburg-Strae 3, 10178 Berlin,
Mon-Sun, 12pm-11pm, https://www.mad-
ami-restaurant.de

86 RESTAURANTS
Brauhaus
Anna Sagar

If you are looking for more traditional Ger- What German food lacks in finesse it
man fare then Brauhaus is your one stop makes up for in heartiness. Large portions
shop. Offering craft beer and sausages of sumptuous sausages and sauerkraut,
aplenty, this restaurant offers a beer hall at- rich currywurst and mouth-watering burgers
mosphere but with a bit of a modern twist. leave you comfortably comatose. Vegetari-
Take their Alexanderplatz location, for ex- ans take heed, choices are somewhat limit-
ample. One side of the restaurant features ed here, the main offering being pasta with
floor to ceiling glass window, that look onto roasted vegetables.
the TV Tower in the distance. Dangling over
the sleek wooden tables are exposed lights With three locations around the city Brau-
and there is even a beer bottle chandelier haus makes traditional German cuisine ac-
on the upper floor. In one corner youll also cessible in modern Berlin.
find retro leather sofas, with punters sipping
steins.

As a brewery the beer is the main draw Brauhaus Lemke am Alex, Karl-Liebkne-
here. The immense craft beer selection can cht-Str. 13, 10178 Berlin, Mon-Sun 12pm-
seem overwhelming, but do not fret. The 2am, http://www.lemke.berlin/home/device.
extremely helpful waiters are on hand with
personal recommendations to guide you.
From their hoppy Bohemian Pilsner, malty
Original beer or their fruity Weizen, there is
definitely something for everyone.

87
Burgers of Berlin in the numerous accoutrements piled high
in the toasted sesame-bun. Sides like fries
The Holy Trinity and coleslaw are little too expensive, as a
result of huge portion sizes, so sharing is
Charlie Marx
recommended. Ambient techno plays just
Berlin has, in recent years, become a key loud enough for you to have a conversation,
destination for European burger aficiona- occasionally interrupted by the clerk bellow-
dos. With so many great options to choose ing out the next order number. Faux-neon
from, the three arguably best destinations lighting and upcycled junk furniture serve to
in the city have here been distilled down to create an effortlessly trendy ambience whilst
this Holy Trinity of beefy, greasy goodness. you perch expectantly on a stool, waiting for
your number to be called. Seating is very
limited inside but plenty of outdoor seating

BBI Berlin Burger is available.

International
This miniscule eatery will have you literal-
ly queueing out the door for a bite of their
famously huge beef patties, six inches in
diameter. The house burgers are elevated
by their unconventional fixings; spinach in-
stead of lettuce, pickled cucumber slices in-
stead of gherkins. The burgers start at 6.50
with plenty of optional upgrades such as
jalapeos or gorgonzola for under 1 . Ve-
gans and vegetarians are also well provid-
ed for, having three options to choose from
burger-wise. Whilst the burgers are indeed
a bite of meaty heaven, they can get lost

88 RESTAURANTS
Burgermeister
Built inside the decommissioned public
toilet underneath the U-Bahn tracks, this
unconventional kitchen churns out hun-
dreds of burgers to eager punters each
day. Bike railings have been modified into
outdoor seating, so one may enjoy their
meal whilst the hiss and clatter of the
kitchen harmonizes with the rumble of
the trains passing overhead. The menu
itself is limited to six burger options, es-
chewing eclecticism for quality. Starting
at 4.80 , Burgermeister also provides
one of the cheapest options in Kreuz-
berg. Highly recommended is the Haus- you must have your starch. Queues for
meister, where grilled mushrooms give Burgermeister can reach around the
their standard cheese and bacon option block, so be patient and have your mon-
a nice umami punch. All burgers have ey ready. The seating is horrendously
been seared with a perfect maillard char, limited so get your order to-go and tuck
and demand you to wash it all down with in from the comfort of the park across the
one of the many craft beers available. road.
The fries are unfortunately mediocre, so
splash out on the chilli-cheese option if
Burgermeister, Oberbaumstrae 8, 10997 Ber-
lin, Mon-Thurs: 11AM-3AM, Fri: 11AM-4AM,
Sat: 12PM-4AM, Sun: 12PM-3AM

89
Gotham Imbiss
A laidback, punky operation, serving dcor is dark but not imposing and with
up authentic American junk food. Here, plenty of seating it is the most relaxed
gourmet burgers are the star of the show, of all three venues. Prices start around
and the operators do not hold back on 7.50 .
the creativity with punny offerings such
as the Too Bad Trump (A Mexican
themed burger). Others include The
Charlie burger, where those seeking a
little spice can indulge in sriacha aio-
li with chilli-onion jam, perfectly cutting
through stinky goats cheese adorning
the black-angus beef. The house burger,
The GOAT is a must-try. Cartoonishly
juicy, it takes everything great about a
standard cheese and bacon option and
elevates it to joyously flavourful levels.
The buffalo wings are the most authentic
you will find in Berlin a fact confirmed
by the lovely Californian expats working
there. The mac n cheese balls provide
a perfect cheesy hit and the de rigeur
selection of beers is elevated by the ad- Gotham Imbiss, Simon-Dach-Strae 7,
dition of a rotating set of ale taps. The

90 RESTAURANTS
Machete
Tyler Nevins

Conveniently located just a few paces


away from the Ostkreuz S-Bahn sta-
tion, Machete offers a variety of vegan,
vegetarian, and omnivorous options that
are sure to satisfy your craving for an
authentic burrito experience. The staff
are friendly and readily speak English,
so have no hesitations in customising
your meal to your own specifications.
The small, indoor-plus-patio restaurant
is nestled in the cozy yet lively neigh-
borhood of Ostkreuz, which provides a
plethora of various dining experiences.
Machete is perfect for a quick and tasty
pit-stop before exploring the surrounding
area, which feels like a small town in it-
self.

The Pinche Cabron burrito is superb.


From the warm and sublimely charred
tortilla to the tender beef to the fresh
corn and salsa, this one is a winner from
top to bottom. The prices are set at an
agreeable rate for what you receive, so
be sure to come with a big appetite, and
your burrito will be stuffed to the gills with
Mexican goodness.

Machete, New Bahnhoffstrae 29,


10245 Berlin, Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat-
Sun 12pm-11pm, http://machete-berlin.
de

91
Galeria Gourmet
Tyler Nevins

The Galeria Gourmet provides a culi-


nary respite from the hustle and bustle
of the lively Alexanderplatz area and
the surrounding Galeria Kaufhof depart-
ment store. Tucked away in the corner of
the ground floor of Galeria Kaufhof, the
sprawling Gourmet offers a broad vari-
ety of worldly food items, available for
sit-down dining or for purchase to take
home.

If one were inclined, you could leisure-


ly peruse the upscale grocery items for
hours, scouring the shelves for specialty
ingredients needed to impress even the
Commensurate with the apparel pricing
most scrutinizing palates at dinner par-
on the upper levels of the Galeria Kauf-
ties. Stop at one of the many restaurants
hof, Gourmet offers top shelf items that
for a coffee, freshly prepared meal, or an
may be pricey for those on a tight budget.
indulgent glass of wine. Sapori Italiana,
However, looking around is on the house
in particular, offers an array of home-
and those interested in food will revel in
made pastas and Italian wines that are
the pleasing displays and liveliness of
sure to satisfy.
the market.

Galeria Gourmet @ Galerie Kaufhof,


Ground Floor, Alexanderplatz 9, 10178
Berlin, Mon-Sat 8am-10pm, Closed
Sun, https://www.galeria-kaufhof.de/

92 RESTAURANTS
Chutnify monochrome Taj Mahal-esque design,
Chutnify offers a bright and rustic alter-
Graeme Acres
native with a vividly colourful bar. Even
Tucked away on the corner of the music is different; gentle jazz plays
Pflgerstrasse is a novel twist on an In- as you sip a warm cup of tea, all while
dian restaurant. Chutnify, as its known, you watch the world outside go by.
is a pleasant place which leads you in
through its front door with a sweet aro- With its accommodating menu and
ma. tranquil interior, Chutnify offers some-
thing for people who want a refreshing-
Once through the door, the wonderfully ly new Indian dining experience.
diverse menu keeps you in your seat.
There is a dish for every appetite, accom-
modating vegans, vegetarians and the
gluten-free alike. The menu is South In-
dian to the core, including dosas (wraps)
and curries. A lunch menu also runs from
Monday to Friday, from 12pm to 5pm, of-
fering quality portions for roughly 7 .

If you want a hot beverage, Chutnify


offers a beautiful selection of Indian-in-
spired teas. Both their masala chai and
ice tea are highlights, equally as smooth,
spicy and homemade.

The restaurant also offers a homely and Chutnify, Pflgerstrae 25, 12047 Ber-
distinctive interior. Instead of the usual lin, Mon-Sun 12pm-11pm

93
Yoyo Foodworld
Matilda Haymes

A 100% vegan restaurant located in the


centre of Friederishchain, Yoyo Food-
world proves to its diners that plant-
based eating does not need to be syn-
onymous with healthy. Best described as
vegan junk food, the restaurant serves a
wide range of burgers and wraps created
primarily with meat and dairy substitutes
that are extremely enjoyable for both
vegans and carnists. Yoyo Foodworld
exemplifies the ubiquity of veganism in
Berlins dining culture. It isnt expensive
or exclusive, but rather something that
everybody can enjoy.

With a burger costing as little as 4 ,


Yoyo Foodworld is the perfect place for
the traveller on a budget. The portions
are quite large, so it is great to visit for
an evening meal or a particularly hungry
lunchtime. The variety of meat substi-
tutes, including soy, tofu and seitan, are
creatively made to replicate a variety of
conventional burgers. Yoyo Foodworld
even serves vegan condiments to ac-
company your burger. The avocado may-
onnaise is highly recommended. This is
an entirely self-service restaurant, so if
you desire a fine dining experience you
will be disappointed. However, if youre
after delicious vegan food in a relaxed
atmosphere, this is the place for you.

Yoyo Foodworld, Grtnerstrae 27,


10245 Berlin, Mon-Sun 12pm-12am,
www. yoyofoodworld.de/

94 QUIRKY EATS
Goodies
Emma Seabuckthorn

Goodies is a cafe partnered with Veganz


Berlin - Europes first 100%-vegan su-
permarket chain. There are a few Good-
ies dotted around the city but the one
with the best selection, by far, of food
and comfiest seating has to be the War-
schauer Strae branch.

Its too easy to end up spending hours


here, with the free tap water and fast,
free wifi connection. The staff are always
friendly and welcoming, and their music
selection is tasteful too. With most of the
cakes being around 2.50 , the price is
also reasonable.

Despite the mostly-vegan menu, there


is something for everyone. Their vegan
cakes are decadent enough to satisfy
even the most apprehensive non-vegan.
A highlight is their rich, moist banana
loaf, which you can opt to have topped
with peanut butter and sliced bananas.
Their selection of hot and cold drinks is
also extensive, ranging from a turmeric
latte to an iced green tea. Not forgetting
their vast range of smoothies and cold-
pressed juices - which are particularly
popular amongst Berliners looking for a
detox on their walk home from Berghain
in the morning. For something more fill-
ing, they have a wide range of lunch op-
tions such as salad bowls, bagels, wraps
and soups, with daily-changing specials
as well.

Goodies, Warschauer Strae 69, 10243


Berlin, Mon-Fri 7.30am-7pm, Sat-Sun
9am-7pm, http://www.goodies-berlin.de/

95
Street Food Thursday at
Markthalle Neun
Graeme Acres

Street Food Thursday at the Markthalle


Neun is Berlin at its most cosmopolitan,
offering something for all tastes. Its an
energetic atmosphere for both locals
and tourists to explore the different cui-
sines of Berlin, all in one venue.

The market is packed with stalls and


kitchens with a wide selection of local
food, foreign delicacies and alternatives
twists. As you go from stall to stall, you
will see everything and more. From the
traditional bratwurst and currywurst, to
authentic Taiwanese Gua Bao burgers.
Tucked away into the corner, you might
spy some Egyptian, 100% vegan kos-
hary, sample a vanilla cream-filled bigne
pastry or even pick up some good value
wild oysters. All of which can be washed
down with a local beer or a ginger ale.
With stalls changing every week, all this
barely scratches the surface of what del-
icacies can be found at Markthalle Neun.

96 QUIRKY EATS
The sheer variety at Markthalle Neun
also helps create a wonderful atmos-
phere. Its a little bit German, a little bit
international, but all fun. Delicious smells
lead you to a new stall, guiding you to
your first, second and, sometimes, third
course. Dishes are good value for street
food, costing anywhere between 3 to 6
. Portions are small so youll want to try
a wide selection, so make sure to bring
extra cash. First timers should also re-
member to bring small notes rather than
relying on credit cards. Seating is also
available, but its a popular venue, so be
prepared for standing room only.

With a warm, cosy, atmosphere and an


eclectic selection of palate pleasures,
Street Food Thursday will be a highlight
of your stay.

Markthalle Neun, Eisenbahnstrae


42/43, 10997 Berlin, Thurs 5pm10pm.

97
A Vegans Survival Guide Markthalle Neuns Street Food Thurs-
day
to Berlin
Emma Seabuckthorn

The word survival is in fact completely out


of place here: Berlin is a vegan utopia. Vot-
ed one of the most vegan-friendly European
cities, this is a total safe haven for plant-eat-
ers.

Germany has a fairly progressive-attitude


to animal rights compared to other Europe-
an cities, especially given their dark past.
German animals were granted legal rights
in 2002, and throughout Berlin you can spot
signs of this compassion. Tierschutzpartei
(Animal Protection Party) posters line the
streets, and theres a vegan shop around Perhaps if youre vegan then the words
every corner. But Berlins vegan community street food conjures up images of sizzling
is diverse. Not everyone is an environmen- meat and non-vegan fare. However, Mark-
thalle Neuns Street Food Thursdays are
talist, not everyone is health-conscious, and
not everyone is an animal rights activist. incredibly inclusive, with countless vegan
So, whatever kind of vegan you are, theresand vegan-friendly caterers. Look out for
a sense of inclusivity and something for Koshary Lux, offering naturally vegan Egyp-
everyone. tian food, or Native Sushi, with their range
of three different sushi rolls made to a per-
Kiss goodbye to planning your outings to a fect vegan standard.
tee and go for an aimless wander; youre
guaranteed to stumble upon an array of op-
tions.

Veganz

Europes first 100% vegan chain supermar-


ket store, founded in Berlin itself. Notably,
prices are slightly elevated due to the spe-
cialist nature of the shop. If youre on a strict
budget then be rest assured you can indeed
survive quite easily without Veganz; Berlins
regular supermarkets tend to be incredibly
vegan-friendly, especially Rewe.

Veganz, Across Berlin, https://veganz.de/ Eisenbahnstrae 42/43, 10997 Berlin,


en/ Thurs 5pm-10pm, https://markthalleneun.
de/

98
Vner Khartoum

Not strictly vegan but this Sudanese place


is an herbivorous treat. For just 3.50 you
can feast on a huge kebab of tofu, falafel and
veggies, drenched in a rich peanut sauce.
Look out for other Sudanese fast-food eat-
eries, such as Sahara Imbiss in Kreuzberg,
they seem to be really popular here in Ber-
lin and tend to offer amazing vegan-friendly
fast-food at even-friendlier prices.

Unpretentious and delicious. Home to the


first vegan kebab, this dner shop has the
authentic feel of a greasy kebab shop, with-
out the cruelty. Its a must-go.

Vner, Boxhagener Strae 56, 10245 Ber- Khartoum, Wiener Strae 69, 10999 Berlin,
lin, Sun-Thurs 12pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 12pm- Mon-Sun 11am-12am
11pm, http://www.voener.de/

Vego Foodworld Chaostheorie

If youre vegan and havent heard of the If youre overwhelmed by the insane abun-
world-famous Vego bar, then youre either dance of vegan food, head here simply to
new to veganism or have been living on a chill in a vegan-friendly bar. The perfect
desert island. Vego Foodworld is the birth- place to start or end your night and meet
place of the Vego - every vegans favourite like-minded people whilst sipping on that
chocolate bar - and the diverse menu also cruelty-free White Russian.
does not disappoint. Stock up on your Vego
bars here since theyre double- and some-
times triple-the-price back in the UK. Schliemannstrae 15, 10437 Berlin, 030
54890734, Closed Mon-Tues, Wed-Thurs
4pm-1am, Fri 4pm-3am, Sat 10am-3am,
Vego Foodworld, Lychener Strae 63, Sun 10am-1am, http://www.chaostheorie.
10437 Berlin, Mon-Sun 12pm-11pm berlin/

99
Klunkerkranich
Charlie Marx
or even at 10am when it opens. The bar
If youre a fan of rooftop terraces and so- is family friendly in the early hours and
called secret bars, then Klunkerkranich definitely adult friendly after dark.
is the venue for you. Located on the very
top level of the multi-storey car park at
66 Karl-Marx-Strasse, it is best accessed
through the Neukolln Arkaden shopping
centre next door by using the lifts to as-
cend to the fifth floor.

Seeing the backdrop of the grey, con-


crete car park slowly give way to botan-
ical paradise as you climb the entrance
ramp to the bar is a magical experience.
Included in this beach-themed urban oa-
sis is plenty of outdoor seating, and even
a sandpit. The interior of the bar is burst-
ing with comfy, reclaimed furniture and
a modestly priced drinks list including
cocktails from 6 .

Its the views from Klunkerkranich which


really turn it into something special. With Klunkerkranich,Karl-Marx-Strae 66,
a 360-degree view of Berlin, the backdrop 12043 Berlin, Mon-Sat: 10AM-2AM,
to your festivities will be really something Sun: 12PM-2AM, 3-5 Entry fee, http://
to remember. With this in mind, its best www.klunkerkranich.de/
to go during the day or the early evening,

100 QUIRKY EATS


Augustina Keller
Kieran Gale

German culture is often thought of as


synonymous with beer. The Augustina
Keller Beer Garden provides one of the
best environments in Berlin to experi-
ence such culture. A five-minute walk
from the Hauptbahnhopf and you will
find yourself enjoying their self-brewed
beer in either the garden or underground
hall. Sipping away at a litre stein with
friends is a pleasurable way to enjoy an
evening in Berlin, especially when sur-
rounded by the view of the canal offered
in the garden. On colder nights, the hall
curates a cosy atmosphere where dis-
cussions echo throughout, reflecting the
high spirits of the patrons.

The restaurant above the hall offers


cuisine inspired by southern Germa-
ny including Bavarian classics, such as
Nuremberg sausages with white cab-
bage and mashed potatoes that are
cooked to perfection. Be prepared to
spend more money here as the location
of Augustina Keller demands a premium
on price.

Augustina Keller, Charlottenstae


55 Ecke Jgerstae 10117 Berlin,
Mon-Sun 10am- 1am, www.augustin-
er-braeu-berlin.de/index.html

101
Roses
Rachael Daly

No matter which city youre in, there is


always one bar you end up in at the end
of the night. A little bit worse for wear,
the only recollection of your visit there
is the morning after taste of cheap beer,
partnered with a dash of hangover anx-
iety regarding some of your sloshed de-
cisions. Roses, a gay bar situated in the
energetic Kreuzberg district, is precisely
that type of place.

Stumbling in there at stupid oclock, you


will be greeted to a cramped yet vibrant
bar selling dirt cheap beer, liquor and
shots. Which is handy as by the time of
your arrival youre down to your last cou-
ple of euros, lying to yourself about the
night still being young.

Finding a seat can be a struggle, but the


music choice will not disappoint. Blast-
ing out Beyonc classics and hip hop fa-
vourites, its guaranteed you will witness
a cheeky slut drop, or maybe something
a little bit more exotic.

Its even worth visiting just to get a


glimpse and feel of the dcor. With the
walls furnished with red faux fur and fairy
lights, take some time to hang out and
stroke the walls, whilst mingling with a
crowd of all shapes and sizes.

Roses, Oranienstrae 187, 10999 Ber-


lin, Mon-Sun 9pm-6am

102 BARS
Nemo
Tyler Nevins

Cozy, accessible, and inexpensive,


Nemo is a great place to stop for an af-
ter-dinner drink before heading out to the
club for the night. With a shaded patio
and a variety of seating options inside,
Nemo caters to any bar experience you
may be seeking. Head to the back and
youll find a billiards table as well as a
fuball table.

The vibe can be described as comfort-


able and casual. The walls are deco-
rated with vibrant impressionist images
and the music varies from 90s hip-hop to
classic rock.

The dim and intimate environment pro-


vides a backdrop for a first date, a reun-
ion of old friends, or a quick beer alone.
Nemo has a great selection of cocktails
and beers, the beer being the more fa-
vorably priced of the two. Try the deli-
cious Augustiner Helles beer, brewed in
Munich.

Nemo, Oderberger Strae 46, 10435


Berlin. Mon-Sun 6pm-5am

103
Prater Biergaten ditional and seasonal German fare. The
Biergarten itself is the main attraction
Tyler Nevins
though, as long as you dont mind filling
Walk through the gates of Prater Bier- up on sausage and beer.
garten and find yourself in a sanctuary
of lush verdant surroundings, great beer, Be sure to bring plenty of cash, as they
and traditional German snacks. The dont accept card. Although the beer
spacious picnic style seating has a huge prices do defy the commonly held belief
capacity so you should have no trou- of beer being cheap in Berlin, the snacks
ble finding a table. There are two sepa- are fairly priced. One will typically spend
rate windows for beer and food, so long about 10 , enough for about two beers
queues arent a problem. Try the Prat- and a sausage.
er Pils, paired with your favorite kind of
sausage and a pretzel.

The Biergarten also has its own restau- Prater Biergarten, Kastanienallee 7-9,
rant, Prater Gasttte, which serves tra- 10435 Berlin. Mon-Sun, 12pm-12am

104 BARS
The Teehaus Im Englis-
chen Garten
Rachael Daly

Sometimes its a breath of fresh air to


escape the hustle and bustle of the cen-
tre. The TeeHaus Im Englischen Garten
situated on the outskirts of the Tiergar-
ten, is the perfect restaurant and bar giv-
ing you a dash of quaintness, elegancy
and seclusion, just a stones throw away
from the manic city centre. In fact, walk-
ing through the gardens its whereabouts
have a tad of an Alice and Wonderland
feel to it.

The initial set up gives the option to


be either wined and dined in the fancy
restaurant onsite, or to use the simple
self-service option within the beer gar-
den outside. Amongst all the greenery,
sit down with a beer which costs 4.20 .
A little expensive compared to the price
of an average beer in Berlin, although
not surprising considering its renowned
location and attractive setting. Alterna-
tively, indulge on a slice of cheesecake,
you will not be disappointed.

Inside there is a stylish dining room


set up for the more lavish dining expe-
rience. With appetisers starting at 5.50
and main courses at 10 , The Tee-
Haus is the perfect restaurant for some
upper-class service and cuisine. Or, if
youre just looking for a quiet place for a
sophisticated beverage then this tranquil
location is highly recommended.

TeeHaus Im Englischen Garten, Alton-


aer Str. 2, 10557 Berlin, Closed Mon,
Tues-Sun, https://das-teehaus.jimdo.
com/speisekarte/

105
Contributors
Matilda, 21, Leo. English Literature student at the Univer-
sity of Bristol. Interested in music, literature and contem-
porary art. Favourite things to do are to visit art exhibi-
tions, and finding the best coffee in Berlin.

Carrie, 22, Taurus. History graduate from the University of


Edinburgh. Intrigued by Berlins relationship with its past
and excited by finding exceptional brunch locations. Most
loves meeting all the canines of Berlin.

Anna, 23, Virgo. Geography graduate from the University


of Bristol. Interested in art, history and music. Favourite
thing to do in Berlin is explore the flea-markets in Neukolln
and Mauerpark and then refuel at a beer garden.

Mary, 21, Libra. History graduate from Kings College Lon-


don. Interested in culture, creativity and the arts. Loves to
seek out great coffee shops in Berlin as well as exploring
Berlins relationship with its past through art.

Emma, 22, Scorpio. Medical Science graduate from the


University of Edinburgh. Interested in animal rights activ-
ism and vegan cuisine. Favourite thing to do in Berlin is
grab some cheap bev at a Spte or check out a free exhi-
bition at the Bethanien Kunstraum, Kreuzberg.

Charlie, 24, Cancer. Criminology graduate from North-


umbria University. Street food connoisseur and drinking
culture aficionado. Favourite Berlin activity is exploring the
food stalls, sampling the local and international fare along-
side a delicious German pilsner.

106
Kieran, 21, Gemini. History student at the University of
Reading. Interested in the experience of living Berlin as a
developing city. Fan of great German beer and the history
of the city.

Emmi, 22, Libra. Geography graduate from Kings Col-


lege London. Lover of film, travel and old fashioned book
shops. Favourite things to do in Berlin include browsing
the magazines at Do You Read Me?! and drinking a Pils-
ner in the evening at Klunkerkranich

Tyler, 23, Cancer. Enjoys a good cup of coffee and read-


ing the news Favourite part of Berlin was the Markethalle.

Graeme, 22, Aries. Graduate of International Relations


and Middle Eastern Studies at the University of St An-
drews. An avid foodie, he can always be found at Mark-
thalle Neun on Street Food Thursdays.

Rachael, 23, Libra. Graduate of Tourism Management at


Liverpool John Moores University. Most probably find me
at the nearest bar avin a bevvy and avin a laugh. Favour-
ite thing to do in berlin- enjoy the sunshine and laughter in
one of Berlins many beer gardens.

Amy, 20, Taurus. English Literature student at the Univer-


sity of Cardiff. Interested in food and literature, looking to
find great coffee shops such as Books & Bagels which
combine a love for the two.

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