International New York Times October 12 2017 PDF

TRANSLATES WELL MILANS BOUNTY THE LOOK OF CUBA
THE FINE ART OF IN LANDLOCKED PHOTOGRAPHS CAPTURE

MOVIE SUBTITLES CITY, TRY THE FISH FACES AND FASHION
PAGE 13 | CULTURE TRAVEL | PAGE 15 PAGE 11 | STYLE
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INTERNATIONAL EDITION | THURSDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2017
From Russia Wildfires

with poison strike at
and power heart of U.S.
wine region
Northern California is dealt
huge blow as deadly blazes
Thomas L. Friedman threaten vineyards and jobs
BY TIFFANY HSU
Fatal wildfires scorching eight Northern

California counties this week have dealt
OPINION
a devastating blow to the important
wine and tourism industries, destroying
There is an abiding dream in the tech several historic wineries and threat-
world that when all the planets people ening the remaining grape harvest in
and data are connected it will be a the Napa and Sonoma Valleys.
better place. That may prove true. But Although the seasonal harvest is
getting there is turning into a night- nearly complete, the conflagration
mare a world where billions of peo- threatens to disrupt tens of thousands of
ple are connected but without suffi- jobs and destroy valuable stores of
cient legal structures, security protec- grapes and wine in bins, barrels and bot-
tions or moral muscles among compa- tles. The extent of the damage may be
nies and users to handle all these unclear for days because the fires were
connections without abuse. blocking many worried owners from
Lately, it feels as if were all con- reaching their wineries.
nected but no ones in charge. Tourism in the region a multi-
Equifax, the credit reporting bureau, billion-dollar economic machine that in-
became brilliant cludes high-end hotels, wine-tasting
at vacuuming up tours and upscale cuisine is suffering
Were all all your personal as the flames have claimed a number of
connected credit data establishments and forced many others
online, but without your to shutter for the rest of the week.
permission It has been a devastating fire, the
no ones and selling it to Sonoma County Winegrowers, an indus-
in charge companies that PHOTOGRAPHS BY DIANA ZEYNEB ALHINDAWI FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES try group, said in a Facebook post. Re-
to prevent wanted to lend A tailors shop at the Kimironko market in Kigali, Rwanda. Used clothes are blamed for hampering the development of a textile industry in the country. ports of fire damage to wineries, busi-
abuses. you money. But it nesses and homes continues to grow.
was so lax in The blazes which have left at least
The hand-me-down battle

securing that 17 people dead and hundreds hospital-
data that it failed ized continued to rage on Tuesday.
to install simple software security Seventeen separate fires, across 115,000
fixes, leaving a hole for hackers to get acres, have forced more than 20,000
the Social Security numbers and other people to evacuate.
personal information of some 146 mil- California is the fourth-largest wine
lion Americans, or nearly half the dumping ground for huge amounts of producer in the world, behind Italy,
KIGALI, RWANDA
country. electronic waste. France and Spain, according to the Wine
But dont worry, Equifax ousted its Rwanda, in particular, is seeking to Institute, an advocacy group for the
C.E.O., Richard Smith, with a payday curb imports of secondhand clothes, not states wineries. The California industry
worth as much as $90 million or East African nations push only on the grounds of protecting a generates $15.2 billion in taxes annually,
roughly 63 cents for every customer nascent local industry, but also because the group said.
whose data was potentially exposed in
to ban used-clothing it says wearing hand-me-downs com- Among the damaged wineries:
its recent security breach, Fortune imports, but U.S. resists promises the dignity of its people. White Rock Vineyards, established as
reported. That will teach him! But when countries in East Africa a winery at the foot of the Stags Leap
Smith and his board should be in jail. BY KIMIKO DE FREYTAS-TAMURA raised their import tariffs on used gar- area of Napa Valley in 1871 and owned by
Im with Senator Elizabeth Warren, ments last year to such a high level the Vandendriessche family since 1977,
who told CNBC, So long as there is no In Kenya, they are called the clothes of that they constituted a de facto ban burned to the ground on Monday.
personal responsibility when these big dead white people. In Mozambique, the backlash was significant. Signorello Estate, a family-owned, ivy-
companies breach consumers trust, let they are the clothing of calamity. In March, the Office of the United draped winery along the scenic Silver-
their data get stolen, cheat their con- They are nicknames for the used States Trade Representative threatened ado Trail in Napa, was also engulfed in
sumers . . . then nothing is going to clothing from the West that so often to remove four of the countries from par- flames.
change. ends up in Africa. ticipating in the Africa Growth and Op- Paradise Ridge posted photos of the
Facebook, Google and Twitter are Now, a handful of countries here in portunity Act, a preferential trade deal charred rubble and blackened hillside
different animals in my mind. Twitter East Africa no longer want the foreign intended to lift trade and economic where its Santa Rosa winery just shy
has enabled more people than ever to hand-me-downs dumped on them. growth across sub-Saharan Africa. (Bu- of its 40th anniversary had stood.
participate in the global conversation; Theyre trying manufacture their own rundi and South Sudan, gripped by up- Ancient Oak Cellars in Santa Rosa said
Facebook has enabled more people clothes. heaval, had already been expelled from in a Facebook post that the fire had de-
than ever to connect and build commu- But they say theyre being punished the trade deal because their govern- stroyed a house, two redwood barns and
nities; Google has enabled everyone to for it by the United States. The Utexrwa textile and clothing factory. It is one of only two clothing manufacturing ments were accused of perpetrating the tasting counter on the property. But
find things like never before. Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda, South Su- companies in Rwanda and the only one producing clothes for the domestic market. state violence.) it said the majority of the companys bot-
Those are all good things. But the dan, Tanzania and Uganda have been Under the deal, products like oil, cof- tled wines and all of its wine barrels
three companies are also businesses, trying to phase out imports of second- fee and tea are allowed access to Ameri- were safe in other locations.
and the last election suggests theyve hand clothing and shoes over the last ket is the primary source of clothing ubiquitous. Planes in Congo have signs can markets with low tariffs. But the The fires also destroyed several Santa
all connected more people than they year, saying that the influx of old items much as it is for cars, planes, hospital in Italian. Aspirin from Europe past its White House has the right to terminate Rosa establishments, including the
can manage and theyve been nave undermines their efforts to build domes- equipment, computers and sometimes sell-by-date floods markets in Camer- the agreement with a country if it feels Fountaingrove Inn, the Hilton Sonoma
about how many bad guys were abus- tic textile industries. The countries want even drugs that have passed their expi- oon. Old medical equipment from the that the relationship doesnt benefit the Wine Country hotel, Willis Wine Bar,
ing their platforms. to impose an outright ban by 2019. ration date. Netherlands lies idle in hospitals in United States. and the Cricklewood steakhouse.
FRIEDMAN, PAGE 10 Across Africa, the secondhand mar- Buses with Japanese lettering are South Africa. Ghana has become a CLOTHES, PAGE 4 WILDFIRES, PAGE 4
Star actresses say producer harassed them

She refused his advances, she said,
In interviews, Paltrow, and confided in Brad Pitt, her boyfriend
at the time. Mr. Pitt confronted Mr. We-
Jolie and others accuse instein, and soon after, the producer
Harvey Weinstein of abuses warned her not to tell anyone else about
his come-on. I thought he was going to
BY JODI KANTOR fire me, she said.
AND RACHEL ABRAMS Rosanna Arquette, a star of Pulp Fic-
tion, has a similar account of Mr. Wein-
When Gwyneth Paltrow was 22 years steins behavior, as does Judith Go-
old, she got a role that would take her drche, a leading French actress. So
from actress to star: The film producer does Angelina Jolie, who said that dur-
Harvey Weinstein hired her for the lead ing the release of Playing by Heart in
in the Jane Austen adaptation Emma. the late 1990s, he made unwanted ad-
Before shooting began, he summoned vances on her in a hotel room, which she
her to his suite at the Peninsula Beverly rejected.
Hills hotel for a work meeting that be- I had a bad experience with Harvey
gan uneventfully. Weinstein in my youth, and as a result,
It ended with Mr. Weinstein placing chose never to work with him again and
his hands on her and suggesting they warn others when they did, Ms. Jolie
head to the bedroom for massages, she said in an email. This behavior towards
said. women in any field, any country is unac-
I was a kid, I was signed up, I was ceptable.
petrified, she said in an interview, pub- A New York Times investigation last
licly disclosing that she was sexually week chronicled a hidden history of sex-
GEORDIE WOOD FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES harassed by the man who ignited her ca- ual harassment allegations against Mr.
Gwyneth Paltrow in 2014. Very few people knew about the producer Harvey Weinsteins reer and later helped her win an Acad- Weinstein and settlements he paid, of-
advances on her more than 20 years ago I was expected to keep the secret, she said. emy Award. ACTRESSES, PAGE 2
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2 | THURSDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2017 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION
page two
ILANA PANICH-LINSMAN FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE, VIA GETTY IMAGES EMILY BERL FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
Dawn Dunning, who as a hopeful actress refused a sexual advance by Harvey Weinstein, At the Cannes festival in 1996, the French actress Judith Godrche said, she was invited Katherine Kendall said that Mr. Weinstein harassed her in his apartment in 1993. He
said he told her: Youll never make it in this business. This is how the business works. up to Mr. Weinsteins suite, where he asked to give her a massage. She said she refused. literally chased me, she said. He wouldnt let me pass him to get to the door.
Big-name actresses say producer harassed them

ACTRESSES, FROM PAGE 1 More established actresses were fear- I was so nave and unprepared, she
ten involving former employees, over ful of speaking out because they had said.
three decades up to 2015. By Sunday work; less established ones were scared Upstairs, he asked to give her a mas-
evening, his entertainment company because they did not. This is Harvey sage, Ms. Godrche said. She said no. He
had fired him. Weinstein, Katherine Kendall, who ap- argued that casual massages were an
On Tuesday, The New Yorker pub- peared in the film Swingers and televi- American custom he gave them to his
lished a report that included multiple al- sion roles, remembers telling herself af- secretary all the time, Ms. Godrche re-
legations of sexual assault, including ter an encounter in which she said Mr. called him saying.
forced oral and vaginal sex. The maga- Weinstein undressed and chased her The next thing I know, hes pressing
zines article also included accounts of around a living room. Telling others against me and pulling off my sweater,
sexual harassment going back to the meant Ill never work again and no one she said. She pulled away and left the
1990s, with women describing how in- is going to care or believe me, she rea- suite. (Alain Godrche, her father, said
timidating Mr. Weinstein was. soned at the time, she said in a recent MAARTEN DE BOER/GETTY IMAGES STEFAN ROUSSEAU WPA POOL/GETTY IMAGES MARK REIS in an interview that his daughter told
Several days ago, additional ac- interview. Rosanna Arquette said Mr. Weinstein Angelina Jolie said that in the late 1990s, Tomi-Ann Roberts, a psychology profes- him about the episode the next morn-
tresses began sharing with The Times Ms. Paltrow, 45, is now an entrepre- asked for a massage when she went to his she rejected Mr. Weinsteins unwanted sor, said Mr. Weinstein harassed her in ing.)
on-the-record stories of casting-couch neur, no longer dependent on securing hotel in the early 1990s to pick up a script. advances in a hotel room. 1984, when she was an aspiring actress. Seeking advice, she later called the fe-
abuses. Their accounts hint at the sweep her next acting role. But she empha- male Miramax executive, who told her
of Mr. Weinsteins alleged harassment, sized how much more vulnerable she not to say anything, lest she hurt the
targeting women on the way to stardom, felt at 22, when Mr. Weinstein had just women who had already come forward ly Hills Hotel to pick up a script for a Ms. Kendall said she was nervous, but films release. They put my face on the
those who had barely acted and others signed her up for a star-making part. On and help those in similar situations feel role. it was daytime, and she relaxed when poster, she said.
in between. Fantasies that the public ea- a trip to Los Angeles, she received a less alone. Born into a family of actors, Ms. Ar- she saw pictures of his wife on the wall. This is Miramax, she said. You
gerly watched onscreen, the women re- schedule from her agents for the hotel Were at a point in time when women quette had already starred in Desper- Hes keeping it professional, he makes cant say anything.
counted, sometimes masked the dark meeting with Mr. Weinstein. need to send a clear message that this is ately Seeking Susan, a hit film, and me a drink, we talk about movies and art
experiences of those performing in There was no reason to suspect any- over, Ms. Paltrow said. This way of New York Stories, and would go on to and books for about an hour, she re- DAWN DUNNING
them. thing untoward, because its on the fax, treating women ends now. perform in films including Crash and called. I thought: Hes taking me seri- In 2003, Dawn Dunning was doing small
The encounters they recalled fol- its from C.A.A., she said, referring to television shows like Ray Donovan ously. acting gigs, attending design school and
lowed a similar narrative: First, they Creative Artists Agency, which repre- TOMI-ANN ROBERTS and Girls. (Her account also appeared He went to the bathroom, came back waitressing in a nightclub where she
said, Mr. Weinstein lured them to a pri- sented her. In 1984, when Tomi-Ann Roberts was a in The New Yorker.) in a robe and asked her to give him a met Mr. Weinstein.
vate place to discuss films, scripts or When Mr. Weinstein tried to massage 20-year-old college junior, she waited ta- At the reception desk, she was told to massage, she said. Everybody does it, The 24-year-old was wary, but Mr. We-
even Oscar campaigns. Then, the wom- her and invited her into the bedroom, bles in New York one summer and head upstairs, which she found odd. he said, according to Ms. Kendall, and instein was friendly, professional and
en contend, he variously tried to initiate she immediately left, she said, and re- hoped to start an acting career. Mr. Mr. Weinstein was in a white mentioned a famous models name. She supportive, she said, offering her a
massages, touched them inappropri- members feeling stunned as she drove Weinstein, one of her customers, urged bathrobe, complaining of neck pain and refused; he left the room and returned screen test at Miramax, inviting her to
ately, took off his clothes or offered them away. I thought you were my Uncle her to audition for a movie that he and asking for a massage, according to Ms. nude, she said. lunch and dinner to talk about films, and
explicit work-for-sex deals. Harvey, she recalled thinking, explain- his brother were planning to direct. He Arquette and Maria Smith, a friend she He literally chased me, she said. giving her and her boyfriend tickets to
In a statement on Tuesday, his spokes- ing that she had seen him as a mentor. sent scripts, then asked her to meet him told soon afterward. Ms. Arquette said He wouldnt let me pass him to get to see The Producers on Broadway.
woman, Sallie Hofmeister, said: Any al- After she told Mr. Pitt about the where he was staying so they could dis- she tried to recommend a professional the door. Then his assistant invited her to a
legations of non-consensual sex are un- episode, he approached Mr. Weinstein at cuss the film, she said in an email and a masseuse, but Mr. Weinstein grabbed Ms. Kendall said his advances had a meal with Mr. Weinstein at a Manhattan
equivocally denied by Mr. Weinstein. a theater premiere and told him never to telephone interview. her hand and pulled it toward his crotch. bargaining quality: He asked if she hotel. Ms. Dunning headed to the
Mr. Weinstein has further confirmed touch Ms. Paltrow again. Mr. Pitt con- When she arrived, he was nude in the She immediately drew away, she said. would at least show her breasts, if noth- restaurant, where she was told that Mr.
that there were never any acts of retalia- firmed the account to The Times bathtub, she recalled. He told her that He boasted about the famous ac- ing else. Weinsteins earlier meeting was run-
tion against any women for refusing his through a representative. she would give a much better audition if tresses he had supposedly slept with She said no to all of it, she recounted. ning late, so she should head up to his
advances. He will not be available for Soon after, Mr. Weinstein called Ms. she were comfortable getting naked in a common element of his come-on, ac- I just thought to myself: I cant believe suite.
further comments, as he is taking the Paltrow and berated her for discussing front of him, too, because the character cording to several other women who youre doing this to me. Im so offended There was no meeting. Mr. Weinstein
time to focus on his family, on getting the episode, she said. (She said she also she might play would have a topless had encounters with Mr. Weinstein. we just had a meeting, she said. (Her was in a bathrobe, behind a coffee table
counseling and rebuilding his life. told a few friends, family members and scene. Rosanna, youre making a big mistake, mother, Kay Kendall, said in a brief in- covered with papers.
Even in an industry in which sexual her agent.) He screamed at me for a If she could not bare her breasts in he responded, she said. terview that her daughter told her the He told her they were contracts for his
harassment has long persisted, Mr. long time, she said, once again fearing private, she would not be able to do it on She refused. Im not that girl, she re- story at the time.) next three films, according to Ms. Dun-
Weinstein stands out, according to the she could lose the role in Emma. It film, Ms. Roberts recalled Mr. Weinstein called telling him on the way out. I will Ms. Kendall appeared in the film ning. But she could only sign them on a
actresses and current and former em- was brutal. But she stood her ground, saying. (Asta Roberts, her mother, said never be that girl. Swingers, distributed (but not condition: She would have to have
ployees of the film companies he ran, she said, and insisted that he put the rein an interview that Ms. Roberts told her The part went to someone else, and produced) by Miramax, and has worked three-way sex with him.
Miramax and the Weinstein Company. lationship back on professional footing. the story shortly after the episode.) Mr. Weinsteins representative pointed on and off as an actor since then. But she Ms. Dunning said that she laughed,
He had an elaborate system reliant on Even as Ms. Paltrow became known Ms. Roberts remembers apologizing out that he did not produce the movie. said the episode had dampened her en- assuming he was joking, and that Mr.
the cooperation of others: Assistants of- as the first lady of Miramax and won on the way out, telling Mr. Weinstein Later, Ms. Arquette was in the Miramax thusiasm for the business. Weinstein grew angry.
ten booked the meetings, arranged the an Oscar for Shakespeare in Love in that she was too prudish to go along. film Pulp Fiction but said she avoided If this is what it takes, I cant do it, Youll never make it in this business,
hotel rooms and sometimes even deliv- 1999, very few people knew about Mr. Later, she felt that he had manipulated Mr. Weinstein. she said. she said he told her. This is how the
ered the talent, then disappeared, the Weinsteins advances. I was expected her by feigning professional interest in business works.
actresses and employees recounted. to keep the secret, she said. her, and she doubted that she had ever KATHERINE KENDALL JUDITH GODRCHE Ms. Dunning fled, she said, and when
They described how some of Mr. Wein- Like several of the other women inter- been under serious consideration. I Welcome to the Miramax family, Mr. When Mr. Weinstein invited Judith Go- the assistant called her the next day, she
steins executives and assistants then viewed for this article, she felt she had to was nobody! How had I ever thought Weinstein told Katherine Kendall in drche to breakfast at the Cannes Film hung up. She told her father, Rick Dun-
found them agents and jobs or hushed suppress the experience. She praised otherwise? she asked. 1993, she said. She was 23, and about Festival in 1996, she had no idea who he ning, of the episode within a few months,
actresses who were upset. Mr. Weinstein publicly, posed for pic- Today she is a psychology professor that time he was selling his small movie was. At 24, she was already a star in he said in an interview.
Behavior attributed to Mr. Weinstein tures with him and played the glowing at Colorado College, researching sexual company to Disney, which supplied the France, and a new film she was in, I was like: Maybe this is how the
became something of a Hollywood open star to his powerful producer. Yet their objectification, an interest she traces cash that would turn it into a cultural Ridicule, was opening the festival. He business works, she said. She left ac-
secret: When the comedian Seth Mac- work relationship grew rockier over the back in part to that long-ago encounter. force. had just acquired the movie and said he ting soon after and became a costume
Farlane announced Oscar nominees in years, she said, and she distanced her- She said that over the years she had had After a meeting set up by her agent, wanted to discuss it. designer.
2013, he joked, Congratulations, you self. He was alternately generous and trouble watching Mr. Weinsteins films. he gave her scripts, including for the They had breakfast at the Hotel du
five ladies no longer have to pretend to supportive and championing, and puni- With a new release, I would always ask, film Beautiful Girls, and invited her to Cap-Eden-Roc, joined by a female Mira- Ellen Gabler contributed reporting.
be attracted to Harvey Weinstein. The tive and bullying, she said. is it a Miramax movie? a screening, which turned out to be a max executive. After the executive left,
audience laughed. According to a 2015 Now, with the process of tallying the solo trip with Mr. Weinstein to a cinema Mr. Weinstein invited Ms. Godrche to ONLINE: WOMENS DRESS TO BLAME?
memo by a former Weinstein Company size and scope of Mr. Weinsteins abuse ROSANNA ARQUETTE near Lincoln Center in Manhattan. Af- his suite to see the view, and to discuss The designer Donna Karan questions
executive that The Times previously allegations underway, Ms. Paltrow and In the early 1990s, Mr. Weinstein asked terward, he asked if they could swing by the films marketing and even an Oscar whether women are asking for trouble
disclosed, the misconduct continued. others said they wanted to support Rosanna Arquette to stop by the Bever- his apartment to pick something up. campaign, she said in an interview. because of how they dress. nytimes.com
Designer of the bandage dresses that hugged the famous

the bandage dress in 2016: I would lit- sales never reached blockbuster levels, proach to contemporary cocktail attire.
HERV L. LEROUX
1957-2017
erally save up all my paychecks and go the dresss aesthetic impact would be As creative director of the Paris house
and wait, and stalk the girls that worked seen in the work of rivals on runways Guy Laroche from 2004 to 2006, he
at Herv and just get all the new colors. and on the clothes racks of mass-market dressed Hilary Swank for the 2005
BY ELIZABETH PATON Mr. Leroux was born Herv Peugnet retailers. Academy Awards ceremony in a memo-
on May 30, 1957, in Bapaume, in north- Mr. Lger proved why Paris is the rable backless midnight-blue jersey
Herv L. Leroux, who created the fig- ern France. He studied sculpture and art center of fashion creativity, Carrie Don- gown, which was seen by millions of
ure-hugging Herv Lger bandage history at the cole Nationale Supri- ovan wrote in The New York Times television viewers when she accepted
dresses once beloved by celebrities eure des Beaux-Arts in Paris before Magazine after a show in 1991, using the the best actress award for her perform-
and the jet set, and who became a fash- dropping out to become a hairstylist and surname he went by at the time. His ance in Million Dollar Baby.
ion cautionary tale after he lost the milliner. collection was original, well thought out, In 2013, after a 12-year hiatus from the
rights to the name Lger, has died in In 1981 he met Karl Lagerfeld, who en- knowledgeably executed and about as catwalk, Mr. Leroux showed a new col-
Paris. He was 60. couraged him to pursue fashion design. incendiary as style can be these days. lection as a guest on the Paris couture
Mr. Leroux died on Oct. 4. The Fdra- He changed his surname for the first His designs also proved alluring to in- calendar. But he never again achieved
tion de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, time after Mr. Lagerfeld advised him vestors eager to expand the company. the recognition or fame he found under
the French fashion industry body, which that Peugnet would be too difficult for In 1998, Mr. Lerouxs business was ac- his previous name.
confirmed his death on Friday, said the Americans, the target market, to pro- quired by the Los Angeles-based group After the news of his death broke,
cause was a ruptured aneurysm. nounce. He suggested Lger, liking the BCBG Max Azria. It was the first time an many of those who loved his designs
Internationally known thanks to the allusion to lightness, for which the American company had acquired a shared tributes on Instagram.
success of his first label, Herv Lger, French word is lgret. French designer-couturier. But Mr. Ler- The entertainer Dita Von Teese
Mr. Leroux (the name he assumed after Mr. Leroux, now using the name oux quickly fell out with the new owners, wrote: Weve lost one of the fashion
losing the rights to Lger) helped create Lger, worked alongside Mr. Lagerfeld GERARD JULIEN/AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE GETTY IMAGES and in 1999 he lost control of the Lger greats. I loved Herv for his wit, his can-
one of the defining styles of the 1990s: at Fendi and later at Chanel and free- Herv L. Leroux, then known as Herv Lger, during a fashion show in Paris in 1995. name, which was retained by the de- dor, his sublime elegance and of course,
the bandage dress. It was formed from lanced at Lanvin and Diane von Furst- Early in his career, he worked alongside Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi and later at Chanel. signer Max Azria. his talent, which came from authentic
dozens of elasticated bandage-style enberg before introducing his own bou- In 2000, Mr. Lger founded his own in- obsession, with no care for the commer-
strips of knitted cloth, creating a body- tique, Herv Lger, in 1984. A fashion dependently financed fashion house, ciality of fashion.
sculpting, skintight silhouette. line with the new name soon followed, dresser, then a hat maker. One day in a Coinciding with the ascendance of Herv L. Leroux, adopting a new sur- And Cindy Crawford, posting a pic-
At the peak of his popularity, his de- and then came the inception of the band- factory I found some bands that were Azzedine Alaa, the so-called King of name that had again been suggested by ture of herself standing next to Mr. Ler-
signs were worn by stars and celebrities age dress. headed for the garbage. They gave me Cling, Mr. Lerouxs bandage dress re- his old friend and mentor Mr. Lagerfeld. oux in one of his scarlet-red creations,
like Kim Kardashian, Rihanna, Victoria The story of the dress is a very sim- the idea of taking those bands and ceived considerable acclaim. It was de- In the last chapter of his career, Mr. wrote, Remembering the man who cre-
Beckham and Melania Trump. ple one, Mr. Leroux said. Before I putting them next to one another as one signed to encase a figure and enhance it Lerouxs clientele remained loyal to his ated the bandage dress, which held you
On her blog, Ms. Kardashian wrote of started making clothes, I was a hair- does making a hat. in the most flattering of ways. While feminine jersey dresses and his chic ap- in all the right places.
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THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION THURSDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2017 | 3
World
What makes Ukraine a hotbed of intrigue
Ukraines domestic intelligence serv- dysfunction that has plagued Ukraine.
POLTAVA, UKRAINE
ice, or S.B.U., its powers of surveillance The whole situation is absurd, but
greatly enhanced by monitoring equip- nothing in my country really surprises
ment provided by the United States af- me anymore, he said, sitting in a park
A weak state gnawed ter Mr. Yanukovych decamped to Rus- near the Poltava battle monument.
sia, has added its own highly selective Ukraine is a country where anything is
by corruption and constant and distorted form of transparency by possible if you have money.
pressure from the Russians leaking information about alleged It was to Ukraine that Mr. Manafort
wrongdoing, often for political or finan- looked for new business horizons after
BY ANDREW HIGGINS cial gain. doing work for despots in Africa and
AND ANDREW E. KRAMER Controlled by Mr. Poroshenko, the Asia. Setting up shop in Kiev, he became
S.B.U. has become a tool in domestic po- entangled in a murky constellation of
After four years of investigation by the litical and business battles, with anti- Russian and Ukrainian business ty-
German police, the F.B.I. and other corruption activists accusing it of work- coons and politicians, notably Mr.
crime-fighting agencies around the ing to undermine, not help, their cause. Yanukovych, the president ousted in
world, heavily armed security officers While still politically influenced, 2014.
stormed an apartment in the central Ukrainian law enforcement is no longer Mr. Chornovil, who worked as Mr.
Ukrainian town of Poltava. After a brief the swamp of incompetence and corrup- Yanukovychs campaign manager in
exchange of gunfire, they captured their tion it once was. It has been able to moni- 2004, remembers Mr. Manafort as arro-
prey: the man suspected of leading a cy- tor Mr. Manaforts former business as- gant and full of self-confidence, a show-
bercrime gang accused of stealing more sociates and turn up evidence of Rus- man who liked to organize big, splashy
than $100 million. sian hacking in the 2016 United States events that required lavish spending.
The arrest of Gennadi Kapkanov, 33, a election, in part owing to American tech- A secret ledger recording payments
Russian-born Ukrainian hacker, and the nical support. to Mr. Manafort and others, he said, was
takedown of Avalanche, a vast network The Central Intelligence Agency tore part of a crude effort to keep track of all
of computers he and his confederates out a Russian-provided cellphone sur- the money sloshing through Mr.
were accused of hijacking through mal- veillance system and put in American- Yanukovychs administration.
ware and turning into a global criminal supplied computers, said Viktoria Gor- Everyone was stealing, and the
enterprise, won a rare round of applause buz, a former head of a liaison office at party wanted a record of who got what,
for Ukraine from its frequently dispirit- the S.B.U. that worked with foreign gov- Mr. Chornovil. They never imagined
ed Western backers. ernments. that they might lose power one day and
By the following day, however, Mr. Ms. Gorbuzs department translated the accounts would come to light.
Kapkanov had disappeared. BRENDAN HOFFMAN FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES telephone intercepts from the new sys- Mr. Manafort, he said, often clashed
A judge in a district court in Poltava tem and forwarded them to the Ameri- with members of the presidents entou-
turned down a prosecution request that cans. This team would translate and rage but had a colossal influence on
he be held in preventive custody for 40 immediately, 24 hours a day, be in full co- Yanukovych for some reason.
days, and ordered him set free. Mr. Kap- operation with our American col- He added: He was not here out of any
kanov has not been seen since. leagues, she said. ideology but to make money. He was
Whether Mr. Kapkanovs flight was It is unclear whether any phone inter- here exclusively for the money.
the result of corruption, incompetence cepts relevant to the election meddling The end of Mr. Yanukovychs rule in
or a mix of the two has not been clearly investigation have gone to the American 2014 upended Mr. Manaforts business in
established. The prosecutor general in authorities. But a Ukrainian law en- Kiev and brought in Mr. Poroshenko on
Kiev, Ukraines capital, threatened to forcement official has given journalists a wave of reformist fervor.
fire the local prosecutor but backed off partial phone records of former associ- Left in place, however, was what has
when it became clear that the case had ates of Mr. Manafort. for years been Ukraines strength as a
been handled by one of his own depu- Dismantling Russian spy gear, how- pluralistic society and also its funda-
ties. ever, proved far easier than purging mental flaw: a fragile state that is too
The Poltava debacle helps explain Russian power, which has shadowed fragmented by competing economic and
why Ukraine, a land of so much promise Ukraine constantly since it declared in- regional interests to impose either Rus-
thanks to its educated population, fertile dependence in 1991 but became far more sian-style authoritarianism or Euro-
farmland and vibrant civil society, has a aggressive in recent years. pean-style rule of law.
tendency instead to generate so many Since March 2014 Ukraine has lost There was never a strong state on
headline-grabbing scandals. Crimea to Russian annexation and large this land. Medieval feudal mosaics, frag-
Over the past year, Ukraine has been chunks of its industrial heartland in the ile kingdoms and early-modern Cossack
battered by revelations: off-the-books east to rebels backed by fighters and republics had nothing in common with
payments to President Trumps former weapons from Russia. It has also been European absolutism or Russian au-
campaign manager, Paul Manafort; the used as a testing ground by Moscow for thoritarianism, said Valerii Pekar, a lec-
creation in Ukraine of malware used in disinformation and hacking techniques turer at the Kiev-Mohyla Business
hacking attacks by Russia during the later deployed during presidential elec- School, in a recent article. This is a
2016 American presidential election; tion campaigns in the United States and country of balance, not of leadership.
and speculation that its Soviet-era mis- France. Nobody can rule Ukraine like a king.
sile technology may have been smug- Ukrainian officials invariably cite The West, fed up with the dysfunction,
gled to North Korea. Russian meddling to explain why anti- has been pushing Mr. Poroshenko with
The sagas are unrelated in their sub- corruption and other steps demanded only partial success to tip the balance
stance and timing. Mr. Manaforts activ- by the West have often faltered. While away from the corruption-tainted oli-
ities in Ukraine predate Ukraines 2014 SAM HODGSON FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES Russia is a convenient excuse, it is also a garchs and Russian proxies who often
revolution, while the others follow it. But Top, the apartment building in Poltava, Ukraine, where a man accused of leading a cybercrime ring was arrested. Above, Paul Man- very real menace. held sway under Mr. Yanukovych.
they all flow in part from the same dys- afort, President Trumps former campaign manager, in 2016; he once worked for President Viktor F. Yanukovych of Ukraine. In Poltava, the center of town is domi- He did establish an independent anti-
functions of a weak state gnawed by cor- nated by a czarist-era monument to corruption agency and introduce a man-
ruption and thrown off balance by con- Russias victory over Sweden in a 1709 datory declaration of assets for officials
stant Russian pressure, and the open within Moscows orbit of influence tests in Kiev. But that is only because What is Ukraines national idea? It is battle that sealed Russias rise as the re- and members of Parliament. But he has
vistas of opportunity for skulduggery first through economic pressure and po- he is weaker, and society is much strong- resistance to authority, said Taras gions pre-eminent power and ended so far stalled on setting up a tribunal
that these have offered. litical meddling, and then military ag- er, Mr. Leshchenko said. Chornovil, a former adviser to Mr. Ukrainians early aspirations for their outside the existing court system to try
Why is there so much noise around gression Ukraine has also enfeebled Mr. Poroshenko, unlike his Russian Yanukovych. own state. corruption cases.
Ukraine? Because Ukraine is the epi- itself. counterpart, President Vladimir V. Ukraines painful history as a put- Now draped in Ukrainian flags, the Larissa Kulishova, the judge in
center of the confrontation between the The thread that ties strange things Putin, also has to contend with a lively upon appendage has left it ill-equipped monument nonetheless stands as a pow- Poltava who let the hacker go, denied
Western democratic world and authori- together in Ukraine is nearly always free press that delights in investigating to curb unruly habits at odds with the erful reminder of Russias looming pres- that she had erred. In a brief interview,
tarian, totalitarian states, Oleksandr corruption, said Serhiy A. Leshchenko, and exposing government stumbles and rule-based, scandal-shy order of the Eu- ence in a country that has struggled to the judge said she had made her ruling
Turchynov, the head of Ukraines na- an opposition member of the Ukrainian the maneuvers of self-dealing insiders. ropean Union, which it aspires to join. create a functioning independent state in full accordance with Ukrainian and
tional security and defense council, said Parliament and vociferous critic of Pres- And unlike the three Baltic States, Its attempts to stay democratic while on the fragile foundations left by more European law. She disputed an appeals
in an interview. He denounced reports of ident Petro O. Poroshenko. which enjoyed brief periods of inde- building a nation are often messy, its oli- than 70 years of communism and cen- court judgment issued after the hacker
Ukraine providing missiles to North Ko- Mr. Poroshenko, he conceded, is bet- pendence between the First and Second garchs all powerful and, given the virtu- turies of subjugation by Russian czars. had fled that overturned her decision
rea as Russian disinformation aimed at ter than his predecessor, the klepto- World Wars, Ukraine has only an acute al absence of state control over media Igor Gavrilenko, a lecturer in Ukrain- and said she had been wrong: I dont
undermining Western support. cratic, pro-Russian leader and former awareness of centuries of subjugation and oligarchic competition, post-Soviet ian history at the Poltava National Tech- think I made a mistake.
But while Russia has worked steadily Manafort client Viktor F. by outside powers, among them Poland, corruption is out in the open, said Serhii nical University, said the release of Mr.
since the 1991 collapse of the Soviet Un- Yanukovych, who fled to Russia in Feb- Austria and Russia, that left its people Plokhii, a Harvard professor and the au- Kapkanov, the man accused of being a Andrew Higgins reported from Poltava,
ion to weaken Ukraine and keep it ruary 2014 after months of street pro- inherently wary of authority. thor of a history of Ukraine. cybercrime kingpin, was typical of the and Andrew E. Kramer from Moscow.
6,000 years of unbroken history, sustained by a single family

during the Ubaid period, Mr. Yaqoobi
ERBIL JOURNAL
ERBIL, IRAQ said, when humankind was still trying to
figure out the wheel.
BY ROD NORDLAND There has been little archaeological
excavation of the citadels tell, except for
There are two ways to consider the im- one project that bored down about a
posing Erbil citadel, a huge mound 100 third of the depth and found an impres-
feet above the flat plain on which this sive set of brick fortifications that were
Iraqi city of one million sits. dated to 2,300 B.C. Deeper excavations
The first way is that the citadel is one might answer the question of whether
of the oldest continuously occupied hu- the entire tell resulted from human hab-
man settlements on earth a Unesco itation, and could therefore shed light on
World Heritage site and Kurdish offi- humankinds earliest urbanizations, or
cials have gone to great lengths to re- whether a natural hill is underneath it
store and preserve it despite a severe fi- all, so that it is not as old as believed.
nancial crisis. Mr. Qader was more concerned with
The warren of alleyways in the old domestic problems. His family has got-
town had become overcrowded slums as ten too big for the little house, and he
the historic buildings crumbled from ne- doesnt earn enough to expand it plus,
glect, but in 2006, the authorities relo- thats not allowed. He is a government
cated the more than 500 families who worker, managing the old (but not his-
lived there, in what was one of the Mid- PHOTOGRAPHS BY IVOR PRICKETT FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES toric) water tower on the site, which
dle Easts most ambitious preservation The citadel in Erbil, Iraq, is one of the oldest continuously occupied human settlements. Rebwar Mohammed Qader and his family are now the citadels only residents. He said he serves shops at the foot of the tell.
projects. But in 2006, in a preservation effort, the authorities moved almost all its residents out. loves the citadel, but its really boring to stay alone in this house with no neighbors. There are other annoyances as well
The second way of considering the cit- especially mice. With no one else in resi-
adel is that 6,000 years or more of hu- dence, Mr. Qaders house is the last ro-
man civilization has come to this: In the wheel, with the citadel as the hub. visitors, and anyway: They just sleep As it turned out, the last man living in has to bring groceries in by handcart dent magnet in town. We have cats, he
citadels central square is a tall metal May Shaer, an architect who was Un- here. That is not life. That is not contin- the citadel, Rebwar Mohammed Qader, from the new city, up the steep entrance said, but theyre lazy.
pole with a Kurdish flag the size of a box- escos project director on the citadel, ued habitation. 32, was happy to talk. He showed vis- ramp to the citadels south gate. Theres If this were a living community, then
car. Down in the new city, black smoke said that there were other sites as an- More important evidence of continu- itors around his two-room brick house, no parking for visitors, and his children as Mr. Qaders family grew they could
belches from dozens of rooftop diesel cient, and fortified cities as big, but that ity, he said, were the citadels ancient similar to the house nearby where he have a 25-minute hike to school. move to a larger home. That is his pro-
generators during daily power cuts. few combined a living city on top of an Grand Mosque, which is still in use, and grew up, and introduced his wife and Its really boring to stay alone in this posal to the citadel management and
Their cacophonous roar disrupts the enormous archaeological mound, con- the museum of Kurdish textiles, the ce- four young children. house with no neighbors, but I really Mr. Yaqoobi, who have so far rejected it
tranquillity of the scene, while hanging necting ancient and modern history in ramics museum and the antiques store, Overhanging his outer compound love the Qalat, Mr. Qader said, using the (which may help explain the directors
over it all for days on end is the pungent an unbroken stream. It is really very all of which are new but open for busi- wall were the only two remaining shade local name for the citadel. Im showing reticence about his last man). I may
smell of burning plastic from a nearby rare, she said, really interesting. ness. This is life, he said. trees in the citadel, one a dying oak, the my respect for all those generations of have to get a lawyer, Mr. Qader said.
trash dump. To hold on to the citadels contin- And that flag? Yes, its the flag of other a mulberry tree, and within the 5,000, 6,000 years gone by. One of his two sons is severely dis-
Because of the regional Kurdish gov- uously occupied title after the evic- Kurdistan, said Mr. Yaqoobi, whose of- compound was a tattered garden, where The Erbil citadel is on what archaeol- abled. He needs his own room, Mr.
ernments ban on tall buildings in a buf- tions, Kurdish officials arranged for one fice is in a beautifully restored Ottoman a scrawny pomegranate tree drooped ogists call a tell a mound built up from Qader said. I protect the name and the
fer zone around the citadel, it retains a family to remain in their ancestral home merchants house near the flagpole with heavy fruit. The house was modest, the dirt and debris of successive human pride of the Qalat, but they need to re-
commanding aspect over the city and its in the middle of the old town. square and whose full title is head of the but with triangular brick architectural settlements, typically at the rate of a me- member that it is only because of me
ancient sobriquet, the Crown of Erbil. For some reason, the director of the High Commission for Erbil Citadel Revi- flourishes above the door. ter every 200 years. At 32 meters high, that generation after generation contin-
Even today, much of the road system in citadel, Dara al-Yaqoobi, would not al- talization. You can put in some new Being the corporeal embodiment of or about 100 feet, that suggests an age of ues to live here.
Erbil, the capital of Iraqs Kurdish re- low journalists to meet the family. He things in harmony with the overall envi- six millenniums of human history isnt more than 6,000 years, and there is evi-
gion, is arranged like the spokes of a said they were too annoyed by repeated ronment. easy, Mr. Qader said. For one thing, he dence of habitation here in 4,500 B.C., Kamil Kakol contributed reporting.
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world
Wine country fires take toll on vineyards and tourism

WILDFIRES, FROM PAGE 1
The French Laundry, a restaurant in
Yountville with three Michelin stars,
was closed Monday night because of
power failures.
Some wineries in the fires path es-
caped serious harm.
Darioush Winery, in Napa, lost half of
its Persian-inspired landscaping to the
flames, but the winery was still standing
and the wines were in good condition,
said Dan de Polo, president of the win-
ery.
Its dynamic and messy right now,
he said of the fires. There are still a lot
of dangerous zones.
At the James Cole Winery, in Napa,
the co-owner James Harder and his fam-
ily evacuated Sunday night after the fire
demolished the eight-foot fence sur-
rounding the vineyard. Neighboring
homes were burning to the ground, as
was the nearby Signorello winery.
We thought our property was gone,
Mr. Harder said.
But then the winds shifted. He and
several friends returned to James Cole
and formed a bucket brigade to put out
the remaining flames, saving all but a SIGNORELLO JIM WILSON/THE NEW YORK TIMES
few small outbuildings. Signorello Estate, a family-owned winery in Napa, Calif., before and after it was engulfed in flames. The wine industry in Napa County supports 46,000 jobs locally through the 700 grape growers and 475 wineries.
On Tuesday, Mr. Harder returned
through very dangerous smoke and
haze with a rented truck to rescue 700 grape growers and 475 wineries op- out to people to contact them to come known for its cabernet sauvignon taint a smoky flavor that makes them selves. And record-breaking tempera-
grapes that had been waiting in bins and erating in the area, the vast majority of back to work, because a lot have evacu- grapes, which currently fetch more than unusable for fine wine, she said. Winer- tures in September meant that fewer
barrels to ferment. The winery still had them family owned, according to Napa ated and cell service is miserable, he $8,000 a ton, according to an annual re- ies damaged or destroyed by the fire grapes were left exposed to the fires.
five acres of unpicked grapes and 10 tons Valley Vintners, a trade group. said. And were trying to reach places, port from the Silicon Valley Bank. could lose vast reserves of wines aging For the most part, the vintage is in,
of the fruit in the cellar. For now, wineries are trying to hook but the roads are still closed and we Wineries that lost vineyards will have in barrels and bottles. The repercus- and we should still have a viable wine
We tasted some, and they were still up generators for electricity and will dont know when well have access to to wait three to five years to nurse the sions of the fire on wine stored in barrels community as we move forward, Ms.
pretty good, Mr. Harder said. But we most likely be out of operation for four or them. soil back to health and coax out a viable and tanks is unclear. Kruse said. We all grumbled that the
smell like smoke, so we dont know what five days, said Pete Richmond, who runs Last year, California wineries drew crop of grapes, said Karissa Kruse, pres- Still, Ms. Kruse pointed to some silver Labor Day heat was going to define the
were really tasting. the Silverado Farming Company, which 23.6 million visits and $7.2 billion in tour- ident of the Sonoma County Winegrow- linings. In most cases, the flames de- 2017 vintage, but it expedited the har-
The wine industry in Napa County manages vineyards. ist expenditures, according to the Wine ers. stroyed the brush planted between the vest, which we now look at as such a
supports 46,000 jobs locally through the The biggest issue is trying to reach Institute. The Napa Valley area is Surviving grapes may suffer smoke rows of grapes, and not the vines them- blessing.
Africas battle over hand-me-downs How Israel helped catch

CLOTHES, FROM PAGE 1
The dispute has thrown into relief the
perennial debate among countries, es-
hackers of U.S. secrets
pecially developing ones, over how to leak of N.S.A. hacking tools last year to a
balance protectionism with the risk of Russian operation used group, still unidentified, calling itself the
damaging their relationship with an in- Shadow Brokers, which has placed
terconnected world.
antivirus software to target many of them online. Nor is it evidently
The American response reflects a de- American intelligence connected to a parallel leak of hacking
sire to both protect jobs and have open data from the C.I.A. to WikiLeaks, which
access to small but promising markets. BY NICOLE PERLROTH has posted classified C.I.A. documents
The East African nations are trying to AND SCOTT SHANE regularly under the name Vault7.
replicate the success stories in Asia and, For years, there has been speculation
before that, the United States, where in- It was a case of spies watching spies that Kasperskys popular antivirus soft-
fant manufacturing industries were ini- watching spies: Israeli intelligence offi- ware might provide a back door for Rus-
tially protected and nurtured before cers looked on in real time as Russian sian intelligence. More than 60 percent,
they were able to compete on the global government hackers searched comput- or $374 million, of the companys $633
market. ers around the world for the code names million in annual sales comes from
President Paul Kagame of Rwanda, of American intelligence programs. customers in the United States and
who has been the most vocal leader What gave the Russian hacking, de- Western Europe. Among them have
about the used-clothing ban among the tected more than two years ago, such been nearly two dozen American gov-
East African nations, said that the re- global reach was its improvised search ernment agencies including the State
gion should go ahead with the ban even tool antivirus software made by a Department, Department of Defense,
if it meant sacrificing some economic Russian company, Kaspersky Lab, that Department of Energy, Justice Depart-
growth. is used by 400 million people worldwide, ment, Treasury Department and the
We have to grow and establish our including by officials at some two dozen Army, Navy and Air Force.
industries, Mr. Kagame said in June. American government agencies. The N.S.A. bans its analysts from us-
This is the choice we find that we have The Israeli officials who had hacked ing Kaspersky antivirus, in large part
to make. We might suffer consequences. into Kasperskys own network alerted because the agency has exploited anti-
Even when confronted with difficult the United States to the broad Russian virus software for its own foreign hack-
choices, there is always a way. intrusion, which has not been previ- ing operations and knows the same
East Africa imported $151 million ously reported, leading to a decision just technique is used by its adversaries.
worth of used clothes and shoes in 2015, last month to order Kaspersky software Antivirus is the ultimate back door,
mostly from Europe and the United PHOTOGRAPHS BY DIANA ZEYNEB ALHINDAWI FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES removed from government computers. Blake Darch, a former N.S.A. operator
States, where consumers regularly buy Students of tailoring at the Utexrwa clothing factory. At least 70 percent of garments donated to charities end up in Africa. The Russian operation, described by and co-founder of Area 1 Security. It
new clothes and dispose of old ones, of- multiple people who have been briefed provides consistent, reliable and remote
ten giving them away to charities. At on the matter, is known to have stolen access that can be used for any purpose,
least 70 percent of donated garments percent between 1975 and 2000. Many classified documents from a National from launching a destructive attack to
end up in Africa, according to Oxfam, a people in Zambia, which produced Security Agency employee who had im- conducting espionage on thousands or
British charity that also sells donated clothes locally 30 years ago, can now properly stored them on his home com- even millions of users.
clothes to the continent. only afford to buy imported secondhand puter, on which Kasperskys antivirus
The American threat, officials in the clothes. software was installed. What additional
region say, is an example of a Western Although many support government American secrets the Russian hackers Antivirus is the ultimate back
nation bullying countries that are trying efforts to build national textile indus- may have gleaned from multiple agen- door. It provides consistent,
to move beyond what Africa is typically tries, they say that the ban on used cies, by turning the Kaspersky software reliable and remote access that
known for: exporting raw materials, not clothing should be done incrementally. into a sort of search engine for sensitive
finished products. In Rwanda, where the per capita information, is not yet publicly known.
can be used for any purpose.
For countries like Rwanda, a small, gross domestic product is $700, many The current and former government
landlocked state with few natural re- people oppose the ban, saying it has officials who described the episode Kaspersky Lab did not discover the
sources to extract and export, building thrown thousands out of jobs distribut- spoke about it on condition of anonymity Israeli intrusion into its systems until
local manufacturing is vital for developing and selling secondhand clothes, and because of classification rules. mid-2015, when a Kaspersky engineer
ment, officials contend. has hurt the nations youth in particular. Like most security software, Kasper- testing a new detection tool noticed un-
Politically and morally it is wrong, Rwandan import tariffs on used gar- sky Labs products require access to ev- usual activity in the companys network.
Mukhisa Kituyi, the secretary general of ments have been raised 12 times, and erything stored on a computer in order The company investigated and detailed
the United Nations Conference on Trade clothes sellers in Kigali have watched to scour it for viruses or other dangers. its findings in June 2015 in a public re-
and Development and Kenyas former their revenues plummet. The govern- Its popular antivirus software scans for port. The report did not name Israel as
trade minister, said of the American ment decision was premature, they said, signatures of malicious software, or the intruder but noted that the breach
threat to remove countries from the put in place before the country was able malware, then removes or neuters it be- bore striking similarities to a previous
trade deal. The leadership of Rwanda to produce clothes that are affordable. fore sending a report back to Kaspersky. attack, known as Duqu, which re-
and East Africa is right and should not And though the ban excludes imports of That procedure, routine for such soft- searchers had attributed to the same na-
lose sight of the bigger picture they have Shopping for secondhand clothes at the Kimironko market. East Africa imported $151 secondhand clothing, it hasnt stopped ware, provided a perfect tool for Russian tion states responsible for the infamous
in mind. million of used clothes and shoes in 2015, mostly from Europe and the United States. the influx of new clothing from China. intelligence to exploit to survey the con- Stuxnet cyberweapon.
The trade relationship between the Peter Singiranumwe, 26, relied on tents of computers and retrieve what- Among the targets Kaspersky uncov-
United States and East Africa should be selling used clothing to help pay for his ever they found of interest. ered were hotels and conference venues
founded on mutual respect, he added, Its hard to argue that the U.S. should East African countries appear deter- rent and studies in telecommunications The National Security Agency and the used for closed-door meetings by mem-
and should not go down the way of 19th- continue to give preferential access to mined to uphold the ban. Underlying and engineering. Now Ill have to stop White House declined to comment for bers of the United Nations Security
century England when it started a war its market if the country is taking steps their move is the damage done in the because I dont make enough money this article. The Israeli Embassy de- Council to negotiate the terms of the
with China over opium, he said of Brit- that harm U.S. companies, said Grant 1980s and 1990s by economic liberaliza- anymore, he said. Its impossible. clined to comment, and the Russian Em- Iran nuclear deal negotiations from
ains determination to pry open Chinese Harris, who served as the principal ad- tion. That, and a combination of debt cri- And the question remains whether bassy did not respond to requests for which Israel was excluded. Several tar-
markets to sell drugs. viser to former President Barack ses, falling cotton prices and cheap Chi- Rwanda, Tanzania and Uganda are comment. gets were in the United States, which
East Africa could export garments Obama on issues related to Africa. nese imports, wiped out textile indus- ready to build textile industries of their The Wall Street Journal reported last suggested that the operation was Is-
worth up to $3 billion annually within a The United States often uses the Afri- tries across the continent. own. Vital ingredients are still missing, week that Russian hackers had stolen raels alone, not a joint American-Israeli
decade, according to McKinsey, the con- ca trade deal as a negotiating tool. In While African economies were being and cutting off imports of used clothing classified N.S.A. materials from a con- operation like Stuxnet.
sulting firm. 2015, South Africa nearly lost its eligibil- pushed by institutions like the Interna- alone is unlikely to fix the problem, tractor using the Kaspersky software on It is not clear whether, or to what de-
Behind the American response to the ity over a ban on American chicken im- tional Monetary Fund to open up trade, some in the industry say. Energy and his home computer. But the role of Is- gree, Eugene V. Kaspersky, the founder
East African ban is a group of 40 used- ports, which it said were killing the the West protected its textile industries transportation costs in Rwanda are raeli intelligence in uncovering that of Kaspersky Lab, and other company
clothing exporters, known as the Sec- countrys poultry industry. Last year, by restricting imports of yarn and fabric among the highest in Africa, there is a breach and the Russian hackers use of employees have been complicit in the
ondary Materials and Recycled Textiles the United States warned the tiny nation from developing countries. dearth of skilled workers in tailoring Kaspersky software in the broader hacking using their products. Technical
Association. It says that 40,000 Ameri- of Lesotho that it could lose its eligibility Removing barriers to trade made it and light manufacturing, and imports of search for American secrets have not experts say that at least in theory, Rus-
can jobs, like sorting and packing if the government failed to enact poli- easier to import and export things but high-quality materials like fabric and previously been disclosed. sian intelligence hackers could have ex-
clothes, are at risk. Clothing thrown tical reforms. made African economies more vulnera- yarn are prohibitively expensive. Kaspersky Lab denied any knowl- ploited Kasperskys worldwide deploy-
away by Americans, the association As South Africa did on chicken im- ble to imports, and manufacturing in- Theres also the question of the size edge of, or involvement in, the Russian ment of software and sensors without
says, will end up in landfills in the ports, Kenya blinked and withdrew its dustries in particular became uncom- and purchasing power of the local con- hacking. Kaspersky Lab has never the companys cooperation or knowl-
United States and damage the envi- support for the used-clothing ban be- petitive, said Andrew Brooks, author of sumer market. Do we have a ready helped, nor will help, any government in edge. Another possibility is that Russian
ronment if not sold abroad. cause it risked losing its lucrative tex- Clothing Poverty: The Hidden World of market here to which we can feed Made the world with its cyberespionage ef- intelligence officers might have infiltrat-
The organization, which describes the tiles exports to the United States; glob- Fast Fashion and Second-hand Clothes. in Rwanda clothes to the population? forts, the company said in a statement ed the company without the knowledge
East African tariffs as taking advan- ally, Kenya exported about $380 million The current dispute over the trade asked Johannes Otieno, the manager of Tuesday afternoon. Kaspersky Lab also of its executives.
tage of U.S. generosity, lobbied for the of clothing in 2015, much of it made for deal, he said, exposed the underbelly of Utexrwa, which makes uniforms for the said it respectfully requests any rele- But experts on Russia say that under
American response. It did so on the American companies. The Office of the globalization. Kenya, for example, had army, the police and hospitals. vant, verifiable information that would President Vladimir V. Putin, a former
grounds that the East African countries United States Trade Representative half a million workers in the garment in- Mr. Otieno said he opposes the ban on enable the company to begin an investi- K.G.B. officer, businesses asked for as-
were contravening rules that require now says it will not review Kenyas eligi- dustry a few decades ago. That number secondhand clothing. gation at the earliest opportunity. sistance by Russian spy agencies may
them to show they are making bility. has shrunk to 20,000 today, and produc- A country cannot survive alone, he The Kaspersky-related breach is only feel they have no choice but to give it. To
progress toward eliminating trade bar- Despite possible ejection from the tion is geared toward exporting clothes said. We depend on America for a lot of the latest bad news for the security of refuse might well invite hostile action
riers to American goods and invest- trade deal, which American officials say often too expensive for the local market. things. Were not stable enough to say, American intelligence secrets. It does from the government against the busi-
ment. will be decided at the end of the year, the In Ghana, jobs in textiles plunged by 80 We dont need you anymore. not appear to be related to a devastating ness or its leaders.
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Business
SoftBank
Small cities lag; big ones thrive seeks broad
stake in A.I.
transition
SAN FRANCISCO
Eduardo Porter
Chief aims to own pieces
ECONOMIC SCENE of range of companies
using artificial intelligence
You dont want to be hit by a recession
in a city like Steubenville, Ohio. BY KATIE BENNER
Eight years into the economic recov-
ery, there are thousands fewer jobs in When Eric Gundersen, the chief execu-
the metropolitan area that joins tive of a mapping start-up called Map-
Steubenville with Weirton, W.Va., than box, met Masayoshi Son, the head of the
there were at the onset of the Great Japanese conglomerate SoftBank, in
Recession. Hourly wages are lower late July, he expected to have to sell Mr.
than they were a decade ago. The labor Son on what made Mapbox important.
force has shrunk by 14 percent. But Mr. Son, 60, did not need to be con-
The dismal performance is not sur- vinced that Mapboxs technology
prising. Built on coal and steel, which powers Lyft drivers and compa-
Steubenville and Weirton were ill nies like Snap and Mastercard had
suited to survive the transformations value. After a whirlwind courtship, Mr.
brought about by globalization and the Sons nearly $100 billion Vision Fund,
information economy. which SoftBank unveiled last October
They have been losing population with money from Saudi Arabia and oth-
since the 1980s. ers, led a $164 million investment in
But what made them such bad Mapbox that was announced on Tues-
places to ride out a recession was not day.
just their industrial mix. With only In the process, Mr. Son also explained
about 120,000 people, they were just his grand plan for deploying the Vision
too small to adapt to the shock. And Fund to Mr. Gundersen. The Japanese
they may be too small to survive. billionaire said he believed robots would
Steubenville and Weirton are on the inexorably change the work force and
losing side of yet another cleavage machines would become more intelli-
dividing the haves from the have-nots gent than people, an event referred to as
across the United States: geographic the Singularity. As a result, Mr. Son
inequality. told Mr. Gundersen, he is on a mission to
Whether they rely on steel mills or own pieces of all the companies that
coal mines, or a hospital or a manufac- may underpin the global shifts brought
turing plant, small metropolitan areas on by artificial intelligence to trans-
are having a hard time adapting to portation, food, work, medicine and fi-
economic transitions. nance.
LUKE SHARRETT
This inability has not only slowed For Masa, his vision is not just about
their recovery. As technology contin- The ruins of the steel mill in Weirton, W.Va. The mill was once the largest private employer in the state, but a changing economy has left Weirton at a disadvantage. predictions like the Singularity, which
ues to make inroads into the economy has gotten a lot of hype, Mr. Gundersen
transforming industries from ener- said. He understands that well need a
gy and retail to health care and trans- ica. For what is driving the decline is massive amount of data to get us to a fu-
portation it bodes ill for the future of Another cleavage dividing haves the flip side of the forces powering the ture thats more dependent on machines
such areas. from have-nots: geographic Where disruption has hit U.S. workers hardest success of large metropolises: the and robotics.
They can be dangerous places for inequality. Small cities may be Automation and foreign trade have buffeted the nation's labor force, especially accumulation of human talent that is What Mr. Son laid out for Mr. Gunder-
working people, said Mark Muro of across the Midwest and Southeast. But big metropolitan areas have been more spurring investment and driving inno- sen helps explain why SoftBank and its
the Brookings Institutions Metropoli-
unable to survive. successful than smaller places at recovering from economic shocks. vations that are fueling the prosperity Vision Fund have invested billions of
tan Policy Program. How states rank in being disrupted by foreign trade and automation* of the nation as a whole. dollars in a seemingly random sample of
To prove his point, Mr. Muro com- LEAST MOST Some of the advantages of big-city more than two dozen companies since
pared the 100 largest metropolitan the labor force shrank only half as living are not hard to find. For starters, the fund was announced. The invest-
areas in the country, those with popu- much. MOST big cities have a greater variety of ments span robotics software start-ups
lations above 550,000, with the 182 Economic transitions work against Michigan employers and thus more job opportu- like Brain Corp and the indoor farming
smallest, which have populations smaller America, Mr. Muro told me. nities in a richer mix of industries than business Plenty, as well as more promi-
ranging from 80,000 to about 215,000. This is a period demanding excruciat- do small cities, whose fortunes are nent companies like the business soft-
On average, the big ones got out of the ing transitions. often tied to those of just a small num- ware maker Slack. The deals have run
*Disruption caused by foreign
recession faster than the small ones. By now, most Americans live in big trade and automation is
ber of employers. the gamut from smaller investments in
To get a sense of the future, he se- metropolitan clusters. Still, the stagna- measured by the reliance on Bigger cities are more productive. start-ups to larger deals with public
lected big and small metropolitan tion of small cities is hardly inconse- Trade Adjustment Assistance, They are more innovative. They draw companies.
areas in only the 10 states most sub- quential. In the presidential election a program to help workers better-educated workers by offering Yet the companies all have something
jected to economic disruption as last year, frustrated voters in metropol- displaced by overseas them higher wages. They develop a in common: They are involved in col-
competition, between 1994
defined by the penetration of automa- itan areas with fewer than 250,000 and 2014, and by the ratio of
richer variety of industries. It should lecting enormous amounts of data,
tion and job displacement as a result of people chose Donald J. Trump over LEAST robots in operation to workers not be surprising that they are growing which are crucial to creating the brains
foreign trade to tease out the effects Hillary Clinton by a margin of 57 per- Hawaii in 2015. faster. for the machines that, in the future, will
of these transformative forces. cent to 38 percent, by one reckoning. Sources: Brookings Institution analysis of data from Moodys Analytics, Census Bureau, It was not always so. In the decades do more of our jobs and creating tools
The difference in performance wid- Mr. Trump took 61 percent of rural Bureau of Economic Analysis and Bureau of Labor Statistics after World War II, the share of jobs in that allow people to better coexist.
ened: Private employment grew al- voters and 52 percent of voters in big metropolitan areas actually de- Most recently, SoftBank has been in-
most twice as fast in large metropoli- midsize cities. This offset Mrs. Clin- clined, as employment growth spread volved in a plan to buy nearly a fifth of
tan areas as it did in small ones from tons advantage in Americas prosper- to relieve the pain by reviving the coal satisfy an angry base seeking to re- to smaller cities. the existing stock of Uber, the worlds
the trough of the recession, in 2009, to ous big cities in critical states. and steel industries, by keeping immi- claim a prosperous past that is no But that was a different economy. biggest ride-hailing company and one
2015. Income grew 50 percent faster. The frustration that helped deliver grants out of the country and by rais- longer available. Unlike career prospects in manufactur- that has changed the transportation in-
And the labor participation rate the the presidency to Mr. Trump is a bad ing barriers against manufactured Yet it is unclear what should be done ing, which took root in cities large and dustry. SoftBank is aiming to accumu-
share of the working-age population in guide for policy. Mr. Trumps promise imports is only a rhetorical balm to to slow the decline of small-city Amer- PORTER, PAGE 7 SOF TBANK, PAGE 7
International Funds
For information please contact Roxane Spencer
e-mail: rspencer@nytimes.com
Kobe Steels false data imperils Japans image
For online listings and past performance visit: Steel are still unfolding. Kobe Steel said
TOKYO
www.morningstar.com/Cover/Funds.aspx on Sunday that employees at four of its
factories had altered inspection certifi-
BY JONATHAN SOBLE cates on aluminum and copper products
AND NEAL E. BOUDETTE from September 2016 to August this
year. The changes, it said, made it look
Big manufacturers of cars, aircraft and as if the products met manufacturing
bullet trains have long relied on Kobe specifications required by customers
995 GUTZWILLER FONDS MANAGEMENT AG Steel to provide raw materials for their including for vital qualities like tensile
www.gutzwiller-funds.com products, making the steel maker a cru- strength, a measure of stiffness when
Tel.: +41 61 205 70 00 cial, if largely invisible, pillar of the Jap- they did not.
d Gutzwiller One $ 358.00 anese economy. On Wednesday, the company said it
m Gutzwiller Two (CHF) CHF 104.30 Now, Kobe Steel has acknowledged was investigating possible data falsifi-
m Gutzwiller Two (USD) $ 152.10 falsifying data about the quality of alu- cation involving another product, pow-
minum and copper it sold, setting off a dered steel, which is used mostly to
scandal that is reverberating through make gears.
345 SPINNAKER CAPITAL GROUP
www.spinnakercaptial.com
the global supply chain and casting a The company said the powdered steel
m Global Emerging Markets K1(31/12/10) $ 124.64
new shadow over the countrys reputa- it was examining had been sold to one
m Global Opportunity K1(31/12/10) $ 106.30
tion for precision manufacturing. customer it did not name.
The fallout has the potential to spread Kobe Steel added that it was examin-
to hundreds of companies. Big multi- ing other possible episodes of data falsi-
999 OTHER FUNDS
nationals, including automakers like fication going back 10 years. The com-
m Haussman Holdings Class C 2217.30
Toyota Motor, General Motors and Ford pany did not provide significant details
m Haussmann Hldgs N.V. $ 2566.03
and aircraft manufacturers like Boeing on the discrepancies, making it difficult
and Mitsubishi Heavy Industries are in- to immediately determine if they posed
$ - US Dollars; - Euros; CHF - Swiss Francs
vestigating. a safety threat. No deaths or safety inci-
The companies are trying to deter- dents have been attributed to Kobe
The marginal Symbols indicate the frequency of
quotations supplied: (d) - daily; (w) - weekly; (b) -
mine if substandard materials were Steel.
bi-monthly; (f) - fortnightly; (r) - regularly; (t) - twice
used in their products and, if so, whether The companys share price dropped
weekly; (m) - monthly; (i) - twice monthly. they present safety hazards. It is a sharply on Tuesday, the first day of trad-
daunting task, since multinationals ing after a holiday, and as of Wednesday
The data in the list above is the n.a.v. supplied by
source from various suppliers and morning in Tokyo had lost about one-
the fund groups to MORNINGSTAR. It is collated and
producers. third of its value since last week.
SHIZUO KAMBAYASHI/ASSOCIATED PRESS
reformatted into the list before being transmitted to the
The scandal hits a tender spot for Ja- The falsification problem has be-
NYT International Edition. The NYT receives payment from
pan. The country relies on its reputation A Nissan Motor assembly line in Yokohama, Japan. Carmakers are investigating whether they were sold substandard materials. come an issue that could destroy inter-
fund groups to publish this information. MORNINGSTAR
for quality manufacturing as a selling national faith in Japanese manufactur-
and the NYT do not warrant the quality or accuracy of
point over China and other countries ing, the Japanese financial newspaper
the list, the data of the performance fides of the Fund that offer cheaper alternatives. But its Mitsubishi Motors and Suzuki Motor blamed for more than a dozen deaths. tend to discourage thorough examina- Nikkei said in an article on Tuesday.
Groups and will not be liable for the list, the data of reputation has been marred by a series both admitted last year that they had Takata declared bankruptcy in June. tion or criticism, either from employees Even as Japan has given up its lead in
Fund Group to any extent. The list is not and shall not of problems at some of Japans biggest been exaggerating the fuel economy of Toshiaki Oguchi, director of Govern- or from independent outsiders. technologies like televisions, cellphones
be deemed to be an offer by the NYT or MORNINGSTAR manufacturers. their vehicles by cheating on tests. ance for Owners Japan, a corporate When something goes wrong, com- and computers, it still excels in highly
to sell securities or investments of any kind. Investments Last week, Nissan Motor said unqual- Perhaps the biggest blow to Japans watchdog, said that Japanese compa- panies always hire a committee of out- valued products used behind the scenes,
can fall as well as rise. Past performance does not ified staff members had carried out in- reputation for quality has come from nies were generally diligent about qual- siders to examine what happened, Mr. including precision machinery, spe-
guarantee future success. spections at its factories, prompting the Takata, the airbag maker that was at the ity but that when cheating occurred Oguchi said. But why not be proactive? cialty chemicals, sensors and cameras.
It is advisable to seek advice from a qualified carmaker to recall 1.2 million vehicles, center of the largest auto safety recall in because of competitive pressure or Why not have people reviewing pro- Quality helps Japan preserve its mar-
independent advisor before investing. though it was not clear whether the history, involving tens of millions of ve- other factors it could too easily go un- cedures all the time? kets overseas despite intense competi-
quality of the vehicles was in question. hicles. Its faulty airbags have been checked. Japanese companies, he said, The extent of the problems at Kobe STEEL, PAGE 7
..
business
SoftBank seeks broad stake in A.I.

SOF TBANK, FROM PAGE 6 keep it on the cutting edge. The com- the thing we have in common with his
late Ubers stock through a tender offer pany began in 1981 as a PC software dis- other investments is that they are all They are all part of some of
that could value the company at a dis- tributor in Japan and expanded to the part of some of the largest systems on the largest systems on the
count to its current valuation of $68.5 United States in 1994 with the acquisi- the planet: energy, transportation, the planet: energy, transportation,
billion, according to people briefed on tion of the PC trade show operator internet and food.
the negotiations, who spoke on the con- Comdex. Some entrepreneurs travel the globe
the internet and food.
dition of anonymity because the details Mr. Son later became the largest to spend time with Mr. Son at his palatial
were confidential. The tender offer shareholder of Yahoo, started Yahoo Ja- home in Woodside, Calif., and his offices
could still fall apart, one of the people pan and, in the last decade, invested in in India, San Francisco and Tokyo. The on due diligence, wrapping up in a few
said. broadband and telecommunications SoftBank chief is known for almost al- months.
If it ends up being completed, Mr. Son companies SoftBank agreed to buy ways smiling and speaking slowly. He Unlike other investors, Mr. Son, who
would own significant chunks of ride- the majority of Sprint for $21.6 billion in rarely picks up phone calls, and his is already talking about a second Vision
hailing companies globally because 2012 anticipating the need for high- email signature includes the whirring Fund, does not insert himself into the
SoftBank already owns stakes in Ubers speed connectivity. He has also invested fan icon that shows a computer is boot- day-to-day operations of most of the
rivals like Didi Chuxing in China and Ola in e-commerce companies, including the ing up, or thinking. companies he has invested in. His Sprint
in India. Altogether, SoftBank would Alibaba Group of China and Gilt Groupe, Many of the entrepreneurs speak of deal has yet to pan out and may be de-
have a network of companies that as well as video game businesses like Mr. Son with reverence. pendent on merging with another com-
gather valuable logistics data and oper- Supercell and media like HuffPost and Only people close to him know how pany.
ate large, connected fleets that could BuzzFeed. huge his vision is, said Eugene Izhike- When other investments have lagged,
work well with self-driving car technol- In a speech last month in New York, vich, the chief executive of Brain Corp, a as did his investment in Snapdeal, an on-
ogy. Mr. Son declared that in 30 years, there company based in San Diego that makes line retailer in India, he has invested in
Location data is central and mission would be as many sentient robots on the software that controls autonomous competitors, leading a $2.5 billion in-
critical to the development of the worlds Earth as humans and that those robots, robots. vestment into Flipkart, a rival Indian e-
JASON HENRY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
most exciting technologies, Rajeev which he called metal collar workers, Mr. Sons engineers stumbled on commerce company.
Misra, who helps oversee SoftBanks Vi- would fundamentally change the labor Eric Gundersen, chief executive of Mapbox, met in July with Masayoshi Son, who led a Brain Corp when they were looking for Some entrepreneurs said his break-
sion Fund, said about Mapbox in a state- market. $164 million investment in Mapbox that was announced on Tuesday. self-driving car technology. Mr. Izhike- neck investing pace with the Vision
ment on Tuesday. He added that the in- Every industry that mankind ever vich was soon seated across from Mr. Fund was unlikely to slow.
vestment was part of SoftBanks plan to defined and created, even agriculture, Son, talking about robotics as well as Masa is in a hurry, said Vijay
put money into the foundational infra- will be redefined, Mr. Son said. Be- trepreneurs said Mr. Sons conversa- of the plow. Mr. Son led a $200 million in- how Britain operated 200 years ago Sharma, the chief executive of Indian
structure for the next stage of the Infor- cause the tools that we created were in- tions jumped from philosophical discus- vestment in Plenty in July, part of an ef- when the landed gentry did not work, digital payments start-up Paytm, which
mation Revolution. ferior to mankinds brain in the past. sions about technologys impact on hu- fort to make it a global leader in indoor but came up with new inventions and SoftBank put $1.4 billion into in May. He
SoftBank declined to comment fur- Now, the tools have become smarter manity to the minutiae of a technical farms. Plenty, which has no farms oper- business improvements. sees this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity
ther for this article, noting that it was than mankind ourselves. problem. ating at scale, is now planning to open its Like many other entrepreneurs, Mr. where everything we touch can become
still raising money for the Vision Fund. Mr. Son is having many of the same Mr. Son recently told Matt Barnard, first farm, in South San Francisco, by the Izhikevich said SoftBank moved scary a market, where were at the opening up
For more than three decades, Mr. Son conversations with entrepreneurs these the chief executive of Plenty, that com- end of the year. fast to sew up its investment. of a new industrial revolution.
has consistently made over SoftBank days as he looks to spread investments puters were ushering in a revolution in I really do like to believe he likes us a Mr. Sons team swarmed Brain Corps
with acquisitions and investments to from the Vision Fund. Many en- agriculture not seen since the invention lot, Mr. Barnard said of Mr. Son. Id say businesses and spent hundreds of hours Mike Isaac contributed reporting.
False data Small cities

on steel lag while
threatens big ones are
Japan image 60 YEARS OF ADVENTURE
flourishing
STEEL, FROM PAGE 6 PORTER, FROM PAGE 6
tion. Although China is the worlds larg-
est steel maker, Japan still sells large
amounts of iron and steel there.
AND DISCOVERY small and in exurban industrial parks,
opportunity in the information era has
clustered in dense urban enclaves
One of the products at the center of where high-tech businesses can tap
the scandal, rolled aluminum, is widely into rich pools of skilled and creative
used in the transportation industry be- people.
cause it is light. The lighter a car, train or The thickness of a labor market is
airplane, the less fuel required to propel crucial in the innovation industries
it. that are drivers of economic success
Global manufacturers are now trying today, said Enrico Moretti, an econo-
to assess their exposure, as they dig mist at the University of California,
through an extensive supply chain. Berkeley. This applies to the biotech
All of Japans major carmakers engineer but not to the welder, who has
Honda, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Su- more replaceable skills.
baru, Suzuki and Toyota are looking Elisa Giannone of the University of
into their use of Kobe Steel materials. Chicago pointed out that the wage gap
Toyota called the data falsification a between rich and poor cities was in
grave issue and said it was looking fact closing from 1940 to 1980. But then
into the problem and considering how regional convergence stopped, as the
best to respond, a statement echoed by wages of college-educated workers
other carmakers. Ford and General Mo- started to rise faster in the big cities
tors are trying to determine whether that were plugged into the digital
they have used the companys products. economy. The cities where people were
Kawasaki Heavy Industries, which quickest to adopt the personal comput-
makes equipment for Shinkansen higher saw wages increase the fastest.
speed trains in Japan, said it was inves- Twenty years ago I would never
tigating. JR Tokai, a railway company have predicted that urban concentra-
that operates the busiest Shinkansen tion would be so strong, said Richard
route in Japan, between Tokyo and Os- Florida, an urban
aka, said that the data discrepancies do studies expert at
not present a problem in terms of design Opportunity the University of
standards, but that it was nonetheless has clustered Torontos Rot-
considering whether to replace certain in dense urban man School of
train components.
Mitsubishi Heavy Industries uses
enclaves where Management.
What has hap-
aluminum from Kobe Steel in a midsize businesses tap pened is signifi-
aircraft it is developing, the Mitsubishi into rich pools cant, and it is not
Regional Jet, as well as aircraft compo- of skilled going away.
nents it supplies to Boeing. Mitsubishi people. There are a
Heavy said it was investigating. Boeing couple of forces
said in a statement, Nothing in our re- that could stop
view to date leads us to conclude that the rise of big
this issue presents a safety concern, and cities. Congestion costs traffic jams,
we will continue to work diligently with and any rise in urban poverty and
our suppliers to complete our investiga- crime could turn them into less
tion. attractive places for the smart young
Kobe Steels problem points to a com- men and women who have been criti-
mon organization issue, said Shin Ushi- cal to their success. Rising real estate
jima, a lawyer who serves as president prices could also put a brake on their
of the Japan Corporate Governance Net- growth. Some economists argue that
work. housing restrictions hamper economic
He drew parallels between Kobe Steel growth by slowing the flow of talent.
and Takata and Mitsubishi, as well as Mr. Muro worries that geographic
with financial-reporting improprieties concentration may ultimately hurt the
at Toshiba, which admitted to overstat- nations prosperity, by concentrating
ing profit in 2015. innovation in a very small cluster of
Boards arent doing their jobs, he mega-metro areas. And yet the forces
said. This isnt an issue that can be that favor larger cities may be too
solved by the president resigning. There powerful to save the nations
needs to be wholesale change. Steubenvilles and Weirtons from inex-
He added, The Kobe Steel case is a orable decline.
test of whether weve learned anything As Mr. Florida noted, the United
from Toshiba and these other issues. States economy isnt even that geo-
Kobe Steel said it had confirmed data graphically concentrated by interna-
falsification affecting roughly 19,300 tional standards. London produces a
tons of flat-rolled and extruded alu- third of Britains gross domestic prod-
minum products, 19,400 units of alu- uct. The output of New York, Los An-
minum casting and forgings, and 2,200 geles and Chicago combined doesnt
tons of copper products. The amount add up to even 17 percent of the Ameri-
was about 4 percent of the companys can economy.
output of those products from Septem- A recent paper by economists from
ber 2016 to August. the University of Illinois, the Univer-
The company said that it had received sity of Quebec, the University of Lau-
no reports from customers of problems sanne and the University of Utah
with the affected products, and that the suggested that there were too many
falsification had been discovered during American cities and that they were
an internal review. The improperly cer- inefficiently small.
tified metals had been shipped to about Adapting to these sorts of changes
200 companies, but Kobe Steel declined will require something different from
to reveal their names. reviving the industries of old. Smaller
It said tens of employees and man- metropolitan areas might try plugging
agers had been directly involved in the into the economic orbit of more suc-
falsification, although no penalties cessful larger cities.
against the employees were immedi- They might try to become innova-
ately announced. The company is still tion hubs by, say, drawing large teach-
investigating. ing hospitals.
And yet the future for the residents
Jonathan Soble reported from Tokyo, of small-city America looks dim. Per-
and Neal E. Boudette from Ann Arbor, haps the best policy would be to help
Mich. them move to a big city nearby.
..
Opinion
What killed the promise of Muslim Communism?
traders association that had morphed
Bolshevik John T. Sidel into a broader popular movement and
and Islamic was staging mass rallies and strikes
across Java. Socialist influence within
activists the Sarekat Islam was already evident
joined forces LONDON For a brief moment after the at the movements congress in 1916,
after World Bolshevik uprisings of 1917, it looked where the Prophet Muhammad was
like revolution might be waged across proclaimed to be the father of Social-
War I to vast swaths of the world under the ism and the pioneer of democracy
build the joint banner of Communism and Islam. and the Socialist par excellence.
biggest mass Pan-Islam had emerged in the final The Russian Revolution further
decades of the Ottoman Empire, with inspired the Sarekat Islam. By late 1917,
movement the efforts of Sultan Abdulhamid II to activists from the Indies Social-Demo-
in Southeast lay claim to the title of caliph among cratic Union had begun agitating and
Asia. Muslims. New forms of Islamic school- organizing among the lower ranks of
ing and associations began to emerge the Dutch armed forces in the Indies.
It didnt last. across the Arab world and beyond. Borrowing the successful tactics of the
From Egypt and Iraq to India and the Bolsheviks in Russia, hundreds of
Indonesian archipelago, Islam became sailors and soldiers were recruited in
a rallying call against European co- the hope of staging mutinies and upris-
lonialism and imperialism. ings. The Dutch colonial authorities
Islams mobilizing power attracted promptly ar-
Communist activists in the 1910s and rested and im-
1920s. The Bolsheviks, who lacked That failed prisoned the
organizational infrastructure in the alliance activists and
vast Muslim lands of the former Rus- continues ordered their
sian empire, allied with Islamic re- expulsion from
formers in those areas. They created a to shape the Indies.
special Commissariat for Muslim the politics But by 1920,
Affairs under the Tatar Bolshevik of the Muslim the Indies Social-
Mirsaid Sultan-Galiev, promising to world today. Democratic
establish a distinctive Muslim Com- Union had re-
munism across the Caucasus and named itself the
Central Asia. During the 1920 Congress Communist
of the Peoples of the East in Baku, in Union of the Indies, becoming the first
what is today Azerbaijan, the Com- Communist party in Asia to join the
intern chairman Grigory Zinoviev, a Comintern. New unions were formed
Ukrainian Jew, called for waging a on Java and Sumatra. Peasant vil-
holy war against Western imperi- lagers mobilized against landowners.
alism. A railway strike briefly paralyzed the
But as we now know, Communism plantation belt in eastern Sumatra.
and Islam failed to coalesce into a It was in this context that the leg-
lasting alliance. By the onset of the endary figure of Tan Malaka first
Cold War, they seemed irrevocably appeared. The scion of an aristocratic
opposed. Differing views about Com- family from western Sumatra, Tan
munism divided Muslims across Asia, Malaka had spent World War I as a
Africa and the Middle East in their student in the Netherlands. He came
struggles for independence and eman- into contact with Socialist activists and
cipation during the second half of the ideas, and witnessed the short-lived
20th century. An anti-Communist jihad Troelstra Revolution of late 1918, dur-
ing which Dutch social-democrats
briefly tried to emulate an ongoing
revolutionary uprising in Germany. In
early 1919, Tan Malaka returned to
Indonesia, where he was soon drawn
into labor organizing. He joined the
embryonic local Communist Party,
quickly ascending to its leadership
before the colonial government forced
him into exile, and back to the Nether-
lands, in early 1922.
And so it was with early experience
of the revolutionary potential of com-
bining Communism and Islam that Tan
Malaka made an appearance at the
Fourth Comintern Congress in Mos-
cow and Petrograd in 1922. There, he
ASSOCIATED PRESS
delivered a memorable speech about
The Indonesian army rounding up members of the Communist the similarities between Pan-Islamism
youth wing to take them to prison in Jakarta, in 1965. and Communism. Pan-Islamism was
not religious per se, he argued, but
rather the brotherhood of all Muslim
fundamentally remade Afghanistan in peoples, and the liberation struggle not
the 1980s and helped set the stage for only of the Arab but also of the Indian,
the rise of Al Qaeda and the emer- the Javanese and all the oppressed
gence of a new form of Islamist terror- Muslim peoples.
ism. This brotherhood, he added,
Yet around the time of the Russian means the practical liberation strug-
Revolution, the prospects of Commu- gle not only against Dutch but also
nism and Islam joining forces seemed against English, French and Italian
very bright. They were perhaps no capitalism, therefore against world
brighter than in the Indonesian archi- capitalism as a whole.
pelago, then under Dutch rule: In The official record of the proceed-
1918-21, left-wing labor organizers ings notes that Tan Malakas impas-
working hand in glove with Islamic sioned plea for an alliance between
scholars and pious Muslim merchants Communism and Pan-Islamism was
CORBIS, VIA GETTY IMAGES
built the biggest mass movement in met with lively applause. But his
Southeast Asia. memoirs recall that after three days of
Over the preceding decade, Indone- heated debate following his speech, he its ability to mobilize laborers to fight nomic encroachment by non-Muslims nist lines. Where Islamic states were Pan-Islam had
sian labor activists had already estab- was formally prohibited from further for better wages and working condi- and build an infrastructure for organ- established, left-wing politics was often emerged in the
lished a strong union representing contributing to the proceedings. The tions through unions, whether in oil izing in the countryside, largely associated with blasphemy, and out- final decades of the
workers on the extensive railroad official conclusions of the Fourth Com- boomtown Baku or the plantations of through Islamic schools. Politically, it lawed. In countries like Sudan, Yemen, Ottoman Empire,
network servicing the vast plantation intern Congress, including the Theses Java and Sumatra. But as a form of was a supple notion: Islamist scholars Syria, Iraq and Iran, Communist and with the efforts of
economy of Java and Sumatra. By 1914, on the Eastern Question, are notably government, Communism meant and activists could be for colonialism, other left-wing parties found them- Sultan Abdulhamid
the Indische Sociaal-Democratische ambiguous on the question of Pan- one-party rule, a command economy Communism or capitalism. selves in bitter competition for power II, shown in this
Vereeniging, or Indies Social-Demo- Islamism and strikingly silent on with collectivized agriculture and In Indonesia, tensions between with Islamists. undated photo, to
cratic Union, had expanded from labor Indonesia, even though the movement party-state control over all spheres of Communists and Islamic leaders had One effect of the failure of revolu- lay claim to the title
organizing among railroad workers there was far more successful than any social life including religion. already begun to divide Sarekat Islam tionary forces to mobilize under the of caliph among
into broader forms of social activism other Communist mobilization in the Islamism, by contrast, was a much in the early 1920s. Communists urged joint banner of Communism and Islam Muslims.
and political action against colonial so-called East at the time. broader and enduringly more open- escalating strikes and protests, where- was to deeply divide Muslims, weak-
rule. An alliance between Communism ended and ambiguous basis for poli- as Islamic leaders advocated accom- ening their capacity first to fight co-
In particular, members began to join and Islam was not to be, neither in tical engagement. In Java and else- modation with the Dutch colonial lonialism during the first half of 20th
the Sarekat Islam, an organization Indonesia nor elsewhere. The strength where, Islam provided a banner for authorities. Sarekat Islam dissolved in century and then to resist the rise of
founded in 1912 as a Muslim batik of Communism, as a movement, was Muslim merchants to contest eco- the face of Dutch repression after authoritarianism across the Muslim
failed rebellions in 1926-7. world. Another effect was to stimulate
In the late 1940s, Islamic parties new forms of U.S.-backed, anti-Soviet
opposed the Partai Komunis Indonesia Islamist mobilization during the Cold
(P.K.I.), or Indonesian Communist War including some that turned into
Party, during the struggle for inde- the virulent anti-Western terrorist
pendence. Islamic parties were uncom- groups that partly define the world
fortable with the Communists insist- today.
ence that independence from Dutch Divisions between leftists and Islam-
colonial rule also upend aristocratic ists in Egypt after the fall of President
privileges and bring about the estab- Hosni Mubarak in 2011 also helped set
lishment of Socialist forms of owner- the stage for the countrys return to
ship over land and industry. This con- military rule in mid-2013. Similar ten-
flict extended into the early post- sions divided the opposition to Presi-
independence period. Islamic organi- dent Bashar al-Assad in Syria, paving
zations actively participated in the the way for the countrys descent into
anti-Communist pogroms of 1965-66, civil war over six years ago. A full
which destroyed the P.K.I. and left century after the Russian Revolution,
hundreds of thousands of casualties the failed alliance between Commu-
across Indonesia. nism and Islam continues to shape the
By this time, the pattern of antago- politics of the Muslim world.
nism was well established across the
Muslim world, and it persisted JOHN T. SIDEL is the Sir Patrick Gillam
throughout the Cold War. The institu- Professor of International and Compar-
tional and ideological boundaries of ative Politics at the London School of
both Communism and Islamism hard- Economics and Political Science, and
ened, dashing prospects for renewed the author of the forthcoming book
experiments in political alliance-build- Republicanism, Communism, Islam:
ing. Cosmopolitan Origins of Revolution in
In Muslim areas of the Soviet Union, Southeast Asia.
the party-state suppressed institutions
of Islamic worship, education, associa- This is an essay in the series Red Cen-
STATE HISTORY MUSEUM, MOSCOW.
tion and pilgrimage, which were tury, about the history and legacy of
Participants of the Second Comintern Congress in Petrograd in 1920, pictured in this oil painting by Isaak Brodsky in 1924, rejected viewed as obstacles to ideological and Communism 100 years after the Rus-
collaboration with Islamists. Tan Malaka sought to repeal the denunciation at the Fourth Congress two years later. social transformation along Commu- sian Revolution.
..
opinion
Asia dreams in skyscrapers

are no longer just oil drillers, but global migration in human history. In 1979, only cent; by 1970, it was up to 74 percent,
ARTHUR OCHS SULZBERGER JR., Publisher A.G. SULZBERGER, Deputy Publisher Jason M. Barr traders and financiers. about 19 percent of its residents lived in and has since inched up to 82 percent.
MARK THOMPSON, Chief Executive Officer
But just as important, cities that have urban areas; today that figure is about Given this rapid growth, govern-
DEAN BAQUET, Executive Editor
STEPHEN DUNBAR-JOHNSON, President, International
record-breaking buildings are not just 57 percent, and this movement shows no ments generally have two options: They
JOSEPH KAHN, Managing Editor
constructing super-tall monoliths. sign of slowing. To put this in perspec- can encourage tall buildings to satisfy
TOM BODKIN, Creative Director JEAN-CHRISTOPHE DEMARTA, Senior V.P., Global Advertising
The skyscraper was born in the United There is a strong correlation between tive, the number of Chinese residents the urban demand, or they can restrict
SUZANNE DALEY, Associate Editor ACHILLES TSALTAS, V.P., International Conferences
States, but in recent years, it has grown the number of tall buildings of all sizes who have moved to cities since 1979 (600 building heights, which then increases
CHARLOTTE GORDON, V.P., International Consumer Marketing
and flourished in Asia. Countries there and the likelihood a city will have a million) is greater than the total current sprawl, congestion and the distances
JAMES BENNET, Editorial Page Editor HELEN KONSTANTOPOULOS, V.P., International Circulation
recognize that to be seen as a player on supertall building; heights and frequen- population of North America (580 mil- between people. As a result, Asian
JAMES DAO, Deputy Editorial Page Editor HELENA PHUA, Executive V.P., Asia-Pacific
the global stage, it helps to have tall cies are strongly related. The Burj lion). By comparison, in 1900, urbaniza- governments establish land-use rules
KATHLEEN KINGSBURY, Deputy Editorial Page Editor SUZANNE YVERNS, International Chief Financial Officer
buildings. Khalifa and Shanghai Tower, for exam- tion in the United States was at 40 per- that increase density, as well as sponsor
Over a century ago, New York and ple, are the most visible signs that a city international architecture competitions,
Chicago demonstrated that the sky- embraces skyscrapers more broadly to provide subsidies or simply lend sup-
scraper is, fundamentally, a solution to enhance economic growth and the 105 port. Across China, we see a strong
an economic problem: how to allow for quality of life of residents and compa- 2010- correlation between the heights of
hundreds, if not thousands, of people nies. 2017 100 cities skyscrapers and the size of their
NAILING THE CLIMATE COFFIN SHUT and businesses to be at the same place Consider where these nations stand. populations and local economies.
at the same time. Urban clustering, Over the last decade, the average annu- Interestingly, the Chinese govern-
The Trump administration formally proposed on Tues- especially in a high-tech world, is more al gross domestic product growth rates Chinas ment has also indirectly created poli-
As President important than ever. By promoting in India, China, Indonesia and Malaysia 200-meter-plus tical incentives for their construction.
day to roll back yet another of President Barack Oba- skyscraper total
Trump density, skyscrapers confer a competi- were, in most years, more than three Because of one-party rule, career pro-
mas efforts to position the United States as a global tive advantage times that of the United States. As part
for 2017 is 105.
motion within the Communist Party is
ordered, the leader in the fight against climate change. The move, and allow a city to of this development, nations expand
The United 80
based on the ability to get things done
States total for
Clean Power though widely anticipated, was deeply disheartening. The skylines of become a beacon their financial and banking sectors; all years is 189. and building skyscrapers can serve
Plan is being In March Mr. Trump ordered Scott Pruitt, the adminis- Chinese cities of commerce. research shows that skyscrapers are that purpose. Recent research suggests
and many In April, Presi- needed for this to happen. that younger local officials build more
repealed, trator of the Environmental Protection Agency, to dent Xi Jinping of Furthermore, China is witnessing skyscrapers and invest in more infra-
which is a repeal the Clean Power Plan, which was aimed at
places in the China announced what is arguably the greatest internal structure to enhance their standing
serious blow East send a plans for a new 60 within the government.
reducing carbon dioxide emissions from coal-fired
message of city, Xiongan, not In the United States, high-rise con-
to the Obama power plants. Mr. Pruitt, a climate denier closely tied far from Beijing. struction remains controversial.
economic
environmental to the fossil fuel industry, was only too happy to oblige
confidence A kind of Chinese Though things are starting to change, at
legacy. boasting to an audience of Kentucky coal miners on field of dreams, its core, the country remains dedicated
to the world. Xiongan is to be China Reaching for the Sky to promoting single-family homes in the
Monday that the plan was dead and that the war on built on what is Number of skyscrapers 200 meters (about 650 feet) or taller suburbs and sprawling car-dependent
40
coal is over. now hundreds of completed yearly in selected regions since 1960. There were 15 office parks. Many municipalities put up
square miles of farmland and towns, such structures built before 1960: 11 in New York, two in Moscow, hurdles for tall building construction,
All this is infuriating on several levels. and one each in Cleveland and Warsaw.
house millions of people and be a center allowing them only in densest parts of
It repeated the same false narrative that congres- for technology jobs. Like the cities its the central city. As a result, we see a
1960s 1970s 1980s 1990s 2000s
sional Republicans have been peddling for years and being modeled after Shenzhen, near flowering of new supertall buildings
that Mr. Trumps minions are peddling now that Hong Kong, and Shanghai, particularly there, but they are frequently derided as
environmental regulations are job killers, that re- its Pudong neighborhood it may 20 safe deposit boxes with views. Be-
someday claim the worlds tallest sky- cause of the negative perceptions, it has
straining greenhouse gas emissions will damage the scrapers. The Ping An Finance tower in 12 become difficult to have conversations
economy, that the way forward lies in digging more Shenzhen, completed this year, at 115 about how they can make cities more
coal and punching more holes in the ground in the stories, is the fourth-tallest building in resilient and less dependent on fossil
the world, while the Shanghai Tower, 3 fuels.
search for oil. completed in 2015, at 128 stories, is the China 1 (Hong Kong)
What is the future of the skyscraper?
It reaffirmed the administrations blind loyalty to second-tallest skyscraper on the planet. As long as Asian countries pursue
23
dirtier energy sources, ignoring the pleas of corporate Since the 1990s, the worlds tallest lifestyles similar to that of the West,
buildings have been built in the East. 20 skyscrapers will continue to be built, as
leaders who know that economic momentum and new The current prize holder the Burj they not only help foster economic
investment lie with cleaner sources of energy, and fear Khalifa in Dubai, United Arab Emirates growth, but also establish a citys sky-
that without innovation their costs will rise and their (828 meters, or about 2,717 feet, 2010) 10 line, which then becomes part of a citys
will be soon be surpassed by the Jeddah identity and character.
competitive edge over foreign countries will be lost.
Tower in Saudi Arabia (1,000 meters, or As technological improvements make
It repudiated the rock-solid scientific consensus that about 3,281 feet, 2020). Nine of the 10 Middle East building skyscrapers easier and faster,
without swift action the consequences of climate worlds tallest buildings are in Asia. In 17
the race for the worlds tallest building
change widespread species extinction, more devas- addition, the continent now has more will continue as well. Since 1890, their
150-meter (about 492 feet) or taller United States and Canada heights have grown, on average, about
11
tating droughts, more Harveys and Irmas and wild- buildings than the rest of the continents 9
10
10 17 feet per year. Statistically speaking,
fires like those now raging in Northern California combined. this suggests that a mile-high building
will become more likely. An awe-inspiring skyline is a citys will be built in the middle of the 22nd
announcement that it is open for busi- century. But dont tell that to Tokyo,
It offered, on a human level, more empty promises ness and confident in its future growth. which wants to get there first by 2045.
to the frightened miners who keep showing up to hear Supertall structures stand as place 8
Mr. Pruitt say that coal is coming back, when any makers in the planning process, since 5 JASON M. BARR, a professor of economics
they create neighborhood landmarks to at Rutgers University-Newark, is the
comeback is unlikely not because of regulation but Europe 1
draw companies, residents, tourists and author of Building the Skyline: The
because of powerful market forces favoring natural foreign direct investment. China is now 2017 figures include skyscrapers under construction and scheduled for completion by years end. Birth and Growth of Manhattans Sky-
gas and renewables. a nation full of capitalists. Arab workers Source: Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat BILL MARSH/THE NEW YORK TIMES scrapers.
And it gave us another reminder that Mr. Trump is
hellbent on abdicating the leadership on climate
change Mr. Obama worked so hard to achieve first
with a suite of regulatory measures and then by mak-
ing an emissions-reduction pledge at the 2015 Paris
climate summit meeting strong enough to induce 194
other nations to sign on to what had all the makings of
Seeing through a glass, darkly
confirmation of ones existing beliefs. These presuppositions caused me to a physiological appeal to confirmation
a historic global agreement. Peter Wehner But heres the thing: Whats easy to ignore, much longer than I should have, bias (processing information that sup-
Under that agreement, nations submitted voluntary Contributing Writer see in others is hard to see in ourselves. the problems inherent in our occupation ports our belief system triggers a dopa-
pledges to curb their emissions in the near term and to I can assure myself that my intellectual strategy. I didnt question early enough mine rush) and that our brains are
ratchet up their efforts in the future; the idea was to integrity is superior to theirs, yet in my the errors we made or how the situation hard-wired to embrace or reject infor-
honest moments I recognize that I was unraveling. mation that confirms or challenges our
limit the rise in global warming to well below two de- Its an odd feeling when you find your- struggle with these same human frail- I recall a lunch in early 2006 with a pre-existing attitudes. Our beliefs are
grees Celsius (or 3.6 degrees Fahrenheit) above prein- self effectively living on an island un- ties and flaws. journalist, George Packer, who had just also often tied up with our ideas about
dustrial levels. To that end, Mr. Obama promised that connected to people with whom you I have some of the same mental habits returned from Iraq. A colleague and I, who we are individually and our group
were once politically close. But its a that Im critical of in others. already worried about the course of the identity. The result is that changing our
the United States, which accounts for one-fifth of the feeling with which Ive become very I know its a struggle for me to see Mr. war, wanted to hear his firsthand ac- beliefs in light of new evidence can
worlds emissions, would lower its emissions by 26 to familiar. Trump, whom I consider to be ma- count. What he described was so trou- cause us to be rejected by our political
28 percent below 2005 levels by 2025. The administra- Recent encounters with old political licious, in a disinterested way. I know, bling that my head nearly dropped into community. No one likes being accused
allies and friends have left me not just too, that Im quick most Republicans my food. In ways of disloyalty.
tion later published a report sketching out various with a feeling of isolation but a sense would say much too quick to home in I had not fully But being on the periphery of my
technological pathways to cutting emissions 80 per- that our islands are drifting farther on his failures, to focus on the things he My Republican understood at the party has given me a renewed apprecia-
cent or more by 2050. apart. The reason is simple: I am highly does that confirm my concerns about friends think time, I had been tion for what Lord Tweedsmuir said.
critical of President Trump, and that him. That doesnt necessarily mean, of Im missing filtering out While I believed in party government
Then along came Mr. Trump, who in March ordered
puts me at odds with a vast majority of course, that my judgments about Mr. information that and in party loyalty, he wrote, I never
the destruction or delay of nearly every building block my fellow Republicans. One illustrative Trump arent in the main correct. I something. ran counter to the attained to the happy partisan zeal of
that supported Mr. Obamas pledge rules aimed at example occurred this summer, when I believe they are. History will sort out Am I? narrative I be- many of my friends, being painfully
increasing fuel efficiency of cars and trucks; rules had several discussions with longtime whose judgments were vindicated and lieved. (To Presi- aware of my own and my partys de-
Republican friends who support the whose were not. Im simply saying that dent Bushs great fects, and uneasily conscious of the
aimed at limiting emissions of methane, a powerful president. These conversations focused for me to see Mr. Trump from a distance, credit, in 2007 in the face of powerful merits of my opponent. Ive found
greenhouse gas, from oil and gas wells; rules aimed at on the meeting Donald Trump Jr. had dispassionately, is impossible. So my political headwinds he embraced the through hard experience that the view
increasing the energy efficiency of appliances; and with a person he believed represented views of him, even if they are basically so-called surge strategy that turned the can be clearer from the periphery than
the Russian government and who prom- accurate, are also incomplete and prob- war around.) from the center of power.
most important of all, the Clean Power Plan. Not long ised to deliver incriminating informa- ably distorted. I relay all this because confirmation Confirmation bias is deepening poli-
afterward, Mr. Trump commanded his secretary of the tion on Hillary Clinton. Another example: the Iraq war. When bias is far more difficult to overcome tical polarization, which is already at
interior, Ryan Zinke, to reverse Mr. Obamas efforts to None of the people I spoke with were I served in the George W. Bush White than most of us like to admit. We are record levels. Our political culture is
troubled in the least by it. House, I believed before the war began ever in search of data that confirms sick and getting sicker, and confirma-
limit oil and gas exploration in Arctic waters and on
At best, your side suggests he should that it was justified that Saddam what we want to believe. Illusion is the tion bias is now a leading toxin.
sensitive federal lands, a task to which Mr. Zinke has have refused to take the meeting, one Hussein possessed weapons of mass first of all pleasures, Voltaire said. It wont be drained from our political
fallen with great enthusiasm. person told me. At worst, he accepted a destruction, that he was a particularly Were particularly tempted by delu- bloodstream by conservatives lecturing
Given all these orders, Mr. Trumps decision in June meeting that he knew might give him malevolent and destabilizing figure, and sions if they constitute bricks in the liberals or vice versa. We have to begin
material that could be damaging to her. that it was a military conflict that would walls we have chosen to build and to live with people in our own tribe, with peo-
to withdraw from the Paris agreement, though deeply Either way, its a big yawn. liberate an enslaved people. behind. Were also learning that there is ple who have standing in our lives. We
demoralizing to the entire world, seemed in practical Another person wrote me to say that need to emphasize greater epistemo-
terms almost superfluous. Mr. Trump has performed well beyond logical modesty on our side and greater
my expectations even in the face of appreciation for the perspectives of the
Some experts say that all is not lost, that it is still ceaseless, unprecedented hate and other side. We have to look within and
possible for the United States to hit its Paris targets. criticism not only from the opposition see ourselves and our limitations with
Aggressive state and local policies as well as market party but from Republican never fresh eyes.
Trumpers like yourself. To say that we all struggle with confir-
forces and technological improvements have already
Obviously, our competing interpreta- mation bias is not to say that some
reduced emissions about 12 percent below 2005 levels. tions of Mr. Trump can be traced to the individuals dont overcome it better
Those same experts, however, also concede that fact that we view him in fundamentally than others or that some arent closer to
federal help is crucial, both in limiting emissions from different ways. But because weve seeing the truth of things better than
shared a similar outlook in the past, this others.
existing sources and in promoting alternative fuels divergence is particularly frustrating Objective reality exists, truth mat-
and new technologies. This administration shows no for my friends now. ters, and we have to pursue them with
interest in either. In political debates we assume wis- purpose and without fear. But in our
dom resides with us and not our oppo- present moment, truth, including truth
Like some of Mr. Trumps other rollbacks, the power nents. Theres nothing intrinsically that unsettles us, has far too often be-
plant decision will be fought in court by some states wrong with that; its the reason we hold come subordinate to justifying and
and by environmental groups. The E.P.A. is required the views we do. And so when I see so defending at all costs our own, often
many Republicans defend Mr. Trump unsound, preconceptions.
by law to regulate carbon dioxide emissions in some
regardless of his actions invoking You can see that in others. But can
fashion, but so far Mr. Pruitt has not proposed a sub- defenses that I am certain would enrage you see it in yourself?
stitute plan. The betting is that if he does, it wont them if champions of a President Hilla-
amount to much, surely not the closing of any coal- ry Clinton had said the same things on PETER WEHNER, a senior fellow at the
her behalf Im convinced were seeing Ethics and Public Policy Center, served
fired plants. Meanwhile, Mr. Obamas measures lie in a severe case of confirmation bias, the in the previous three Republican admin-
tatters, along with Mr. Trumps claims to leadership. tendency to interpret new evidence as NAJEEBAH AL-GHADBAN istrations.
..
opinion
To serve is to slobber
when some players predictably took a his ousted health and human services
knee, he took calculated offense, storm- secretary, was shady from the get-go,
ing out of the stadium and doing his boss but still: Would he have acted quite so
proud. Trump tweeted afterward that high-flying and mighty all those regal
Pence had been obeying his orders. seats on all those pricey charters but
Pence has a long and serious political for Trump, whose entire rule smacks of
rsum, but would another Republican economically self-aggrandizing brand
Frank Bruni president have tapped him for the No. 2 promotion and whose family is busting
spot? I doubt it. I also doubt that an- the Secret Service budget?
other Republican president would have Would Mnuchin be so blas about his
chosen Rick Perry for the Energy De- own use of government planes? Accord-
partment, Ben Carson for Housing and ing to multiple reports, he charged the
No one besides Donald Trump was Urban Development or a host of the government $800,000 for military trans-
going to ask Rex Tillerson to the prom. people who are working or worked port when commercial flights were
No one else was going to pin a corsage just below the cabinet level. available and Transportation Secre-
on Jeff Sessions, pick up Steven Sean Spicer? Anthony Scaramucci? tary Elaine Chao, too, indulged in need-
Mnuchin in a chauffeured limo, give a They arent superstars who had been lessly expensive air travel.
box of Godiva chocolates to Betsy De- underutilized before. Theyre opportun- Would Scott Pruitt, the director of the
Vos. ists who lunged for an adventure that Environmental Protection Agency, have
A more conventional, responsible, they had probably never envisioned. spent nearly $25,000 on some special
admirable president would have looked Unlike his predecessors, Trump didnt phone booth? This fish rots from the
right past them, at comelier options have his pick of bejeweled head.
galore. On some level they know that. the crop. Some And these people have become prac-
Trump certainly does. Thats his power President Trump prospects didnt ticed at humiliation. Maybe their perks
over them a poison in the heart of his demands an want to be any- are Percocets for the pain.
cabinet. He gave them a chance and a unseemly degree where near such Sessions twisted in the wind while
dance that they werent going to get any of gratitude and an egomaniacal, Trump, in tweets and talk, rued that hed
other way. In return he demands a deference. unprincipled ever appointed him attorney general
gratitude thats unhealthy, a deference man, while others and suggested that he might dismiss
thats unseemly. were nonstarters him any day. Spicer sucked up Trumps
Every presidential administration because theyd boldly advertised displeasure with his
has its deadbeats and dysfunctions. publicly vented their doubts about him. comportment at the lectern and even
Trumps Iran derangement

None that Ive observed has an ethos of The team he assembled wasnt all the color of his suits.
abject servility like Trumps. Thats stars. With a few notable exceptions, it Tillerson tucked his dignity into some
what we witnessed over the weekend, was a coalition of the willing, and a sock drawer as Trump repeatedly con-
when the obsequious handmaiden ragtag one at that. And then, through his tradicted his statements and under-
otherwise known as the vice president example and erratic behavior this year, mined his authority. For Trump this was threat from the Islamic Republic, not the Iranian foreign minister, Moham-
flew at taxpayer expense to his home he systematically diminished these gleeful sport. Hes only as big as his change the nature of the regime mad Javad Zarif. Tillerson is an inef-
state of Indiana for a game between the recruits. If they had pride and much of a ability to make his underlings look overnight. It was about centrifuges, fective secretary of state whose major
Indianapolis Colts and the San Fran- reputation on their way into the admin- small. not Iranian support for Hezbollah; contribution to truth-telling has been
cisco 49ers. istration, theyll be lucky to hold on to Mnuchin signed on as his Treasury enriched uranium, not Irans terrible to call his boss, Trump, a moron. Still,
Mike Pence merely pretended that he tatters of either on their way out. secretary to become his apologist, and human rights record. It represents a as long as hes around, hes beholden to
was in the mood for football. He was The most effective leaders extract the was prodded to vouch for the president difficult compromise between two the Trump line on Iran, whatever his
really in the market for cheap political best from the people around them. along lines having nothing to do with his Roger Cohen countries the United States and Iran own reservations.
theater. During the national anthem, Trump provokes the worst. Tom Price, portfolio. On a Sunday morning news whose accumulated grievances So Tillerson tells Zarif: No one can
show, he dutifully joined Trumps cam- stretch back decades but whose un- credibly claim that Iran has positively
paign against pro football players who yielding confrontation benefits neither. contributed to regional peace and
dont stand for the anthem. In a public Irans nuclear program was pitched security. This is true, but irrelevant to
statement, he docilely claimed that BERLIN If President Trump decertifies into reverse by the agreement after a the nuclear deal. He tells Zarif that
there was no reason none whatso- the Iran nuclear deal this week, as decade of rapid development. The lifting sanctions under the accord has
ever! to believe that Trump had any seems likely, it will show total disre- number of centrifuges was slashed. enabled Irans unacceptable behavior.
patience for neo-Nazis. spect for Americas allies, Wolfgang Irans uranium stockpile was all but This is untrue and so by definition
I flash back on that infamous cabinet Ischinger, the former German ambas- eliminated; enrichment levels are irrelevant. He says of Iran and the
meeting, when Trump coaxed those sador to the United States, told me. capped at 3.7 percent, a long way from United States, the relationship has
insane testimonials, and see more Thats the least of it. This and I bomb grade; outside inspection by the been defined by violence against
clearly than ever that he was establish- know competition is stiff would be International Atomic Energy Agency is us. The violence has gone both ways,
ing the terms of service: I strut, you the rashest, most foolish act of the rigorous. The and this is irrelevant.
slobber, for as long as I can stand you or Trump administration to date. IAEA, like Mat- Bait and switch: Imagine if Iran said
you can stand it. The presidents refusal to certify an Decertifying the tis, has found it planned to rip up the nuclear agree-
Which wont be forever, and thats the accord his own defense secretary, Iran nuclear that Iran is in ment because the United States
scariest part. Trumps options will grow James Mattis, says Iran is upholding, deal will signal compliance. elected a Saudi-loving, Iran-hating
less attractive, not more. On the far side and is in the American national inter- that the United Would it have president in Trump; and his dancing
of this uncomely crowd, theres an even est, would send a strong signal that the States is now been nice if Iran with the Saudi royals, combined with
DOUG MILLS THE NEW YORK TIMES
sorrier, more simpering crew of replace- United States has become a bait-and- had been per- his Qatar derangement syndrome, had
a power
President Trump with members of his cabinet at a meeting at the White House in June. ments. switch power whose word is worthless. suaded to dis- not contributed to regional peace and
Its Americas word as solemn gage
whose word mantle its nucle- security.
that has underwritten global security is worthless. ar program and Filkins writes of the encounter: An
since 1945. Goodbye to all that. its scientists aide to Tillerson later told me, It was
Uncorked, Senator Bob Corker, the induced to con- one of the finest moments in American
Republican chairman of the Senate sign their mastery of the nuclear fuel diplomacy in the last fifty years.
Foreign Relations Committee, has cycle to amnesiac oblivion? Sure. I am paid to produce words. I regret
grown bubbly. Hes compared Trumps Dream on. Diplomacy takes place in that this sentence renders me speech-
White House to an adult day care the real world, as those mouthing off less.
center in which only the likes of Mat- about North Korean nuclear dismantle- Of course, a Trump refusal to certify
tis are keeping the child-sovereigns ment will discover. It involves trade- may not unravel the deal, but it would
tantrums from causing disaster. Hes offs equally painful for both sides that put it on life-support, as well as doing
suggested that, through infantile reck- produce an imperfect outcome better lasting damage to American credibility.
lessness, Trump could set us on the than the alternative. The Republican-controlled Congress
path to World War III. (If anyone needs reminding of the may not reimpose sanctions a step
Exhibit A in this pattern of puerility alternative, North Korea has nukes. that would kill the accord or take
would be the decertification of a multi- Iran does not and is now further other legislative action to scuttle it, but
lateral deal that is working and is from one than it was. One of the ex- Trump will already have done enough
supported by China, Russia, Britain, traordinary aspects of Trumps caprice damage to make any nation question
France and Germany, powers with is his apparent willingness to open a why it should conclude a deal with the
which Trump may even have a passing second nuclear front, like some loony United States. Only Trump could con-
acquaintance. generalissimo who wakes up feeling an trive to cede the moral high ground to
Bait and switch, I said. The accord is Asian conflagration is insufficient, a Iran.
a nuclear nonproliferation deal, not a Middle Eastern one is needed, too.) Trump will also have made the Mid-
grand bargain with Iran. It was con- Thanks to Dexter Filkins at The dle East more dangerous, reinforced
cluded, as most breakthrough diplo- New Yorker we have a verbatim ac- Iranian hard-liners, angered allies and
next, well help you matic accords are, with a hostile power.
It was designed to curb the potential
count of Secretary of State Rex Tiller-
sons first encounter last month with
done a disservice to Israeli security. He
is in a class of his own.
make sense of it. From Russia with poison and power

FRIEDMAN, FROM PAGE 1 searchers. networks become so much part of the
Newspaper subscription offer: As Mark Warner, the top Democrat

on the Senate Intelligence Committee,
put it to me, Up to now these compa-
Twitters presentation, said Senator
Warner, showed an enormous lack of
understanding from the Twitter team
wiring of our lives and the impacts
of their failures so consequential
that they should be regulated in new
Save 66% for three months. nies have not taken the threat that
Russia and other foreign agents pose
of how serious this issue is, the threat
it poses to democratic institutions. It
ways? I dont know, but I know its
time for this discussion. Its already
to our system seriously enough or was frankly inadequate on every started.
invested enough or to really reveal level. Said Minnesota Senator Amy
what happened in 2016 or what is And on Monday The Times reported Klobuchar, We must update our laws
still happening now. that Google had found evidence that to ensure that when political ads are
In unpredictable times, you need journalism that cuts through Last November, Facebook C.E.O. Russian agents spent tens of thou- sold online Americans know who paid
the noise to deliver the facts. A subscription to The New York Mark Zuckerberg dismissed as a sands of dollars buying ads on its for them.
pretty crazy idea evidence that people wide-ranging networks in an effort to These companies make billions
Times International Edition gives you uncompromising reporting were using Facebook to generate fake interfere with the 2016 presidential selling our data, but theyre ambiva-
that deepens your understanding of the issues that matter, news to tip the U.S. election. Last campaign. lent about taking responsibility for the
week, after disclosing hundreds of Every week uses, and abuses, of their platforms,
and includes unlimited access to NYTimes.com and apps for Russia-linked accounts where fic- Every week we we are coming argued the Harvard political philoso-
tional people posing as U.S. activists are coming to to realize that pher Michael Sandel. They cant have
smartphone and tablet. spread inflammatory messages about realize that we we do not know it both ways. If they claim they are
immigration and guns and trashed do not know the the depth of this neutral pipes and wires, like the phone
Hillary Clinton and boosted Donald depth of this Russian hacking company or the electric company, they
Trump Zuckerberg admitted, Call- Russian hacking. and that the should be regulated as public utilities.
ing that crazy was dismissive and I people who did But if, on the other hand, they want to
regret it. it were incredi- claim the freedoms associated with
One reason Facebook was slow to bly sophis- news media, they cant deny responsi-
Order the International Edition today at respond is that its business model was
to absorb all of the readers of the main-
ticated, not only about the technology
platforms but also about which dis-
bility for promulgating fake news.
In the early 20th century, added
nytimes.com/discover stream media newspapers and maga-
zines and to absorb all their advertis-
tricts and demographics to target with
just the right inflammatory messages.
Sandel, the rise of monopolies and
concentrated economic power brought
ers but as few of their editors as Americas democracy is built on two forth an era of progressive reform that
possible. An editor is a human being principles: truth and trust. We trust regulated railroads, banks and utilities
you have to pay to bring editorial that our elections are fair and that in the public interest. Today, we need a
judgment to content on your website, enables our peaceful rotations of similar spirit of reform. These plat-
to make sure things are accurate and power. And we trust that the news we forms are so dominant that, like elec-
to correct them if theyre not. Social get from our mainstream outlets is tric wires or telephone lines, we can
networks preferred to use algorithms true and that it is corrected if it is not. scarcely avoid using them. But when
instead, but these are easily gamed. And we expect our president to defend they allow our personal data or
On Sept. 28, Twitter executives sat both. But today many people are get- elections to be hacked, theres not
for a briefing for the Senate and House ting news from platforms that are much we can do about it.
Intelligence Committees. Afterward, easily polluted by Russian or other A century ago, we found ways to
The Times reported, Twitter said that hackers with fake news. And our presi- rein in the unaccountable power asso-
it had found about 200 accounts that dent is a liar who refuses to hold Rus- ciated with the Industrial Revolution,
Offer expires December 31, 2017 and is valid for new subscribers only. Hand delivery subject to confirmation by
appeared to be linked to the Russian sia to account for anything. Its a terri- concluded Sandel. Today, we need to
local distributors. Smartphone and tablet apps are not supported on all devices.
campaign to influence the 2016 presi- ble combination. figure out how to rein in the unaccount-
dential election a small fraction of We cant fix Trump right now. But able power associated with the digital
the number found by outside re- have Equifax and these big social revolution.
..
style
In Cuba, creating a look

I was drawn to
people really striving
for individual style
in a country where
its hard to have
individual style,
said Rose Cromwell,
a photographer who
has been going
to Cuba since 2005.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ROSE MARIE CROMWELL
TEXT BY JOANNA NIKAS
Gabriela Procuza, a bartender, lives in Chunky gold jewelry, including crosses Felix Palmero scoured secondhand shops
Roberto Alvarez runs a barbershop in the Cerro neighborhood of Havana. He isnt into Havana but found the dress she is wear- and amulets, is a key style element for for his shirt. Its kind of a retro Caribbe-
trends and prefers to alter his own clothing; the vest he is wearing is made from a ing when it caught her eye at a souvenir men. Even if somebody doesnt have a an style, Ms. Cromwell said. Maybe it
womans jacket that he cut up. When he isnt shaping men up, he is a rapper and goes shop. She brought a certain freshness to whole lot of money, its still important to would have been something that an older
by the stage name Robe L Ninho. it, Ms. Cromwell said. wear nice jewelry, the photographer said. person would wear in a less ironic way.
Pierre and Yves and Madison Cox: Its complicated

Bergs holdings: the paintings, the fur- Bon, who was in charge of the music for geles, met Mr. Cox in Paris during his
Mr. Cox finds himself niture, the libraries and the cash; an the Saint Laurent shows and worked for early years with Mr. Berg. Pierre re-
auction of his and Mr. Saint Laurents Interview magazine in Paris. ally didnt allow Madison to have
responsible for personal collection fetched hundreds of I introduced Jol to Madison, they friends, Mr. Dunham said. He lived a
the designers legacy millions in 2009. (The interest Mr. Berg fell in love, and Madison followed Jol to very controlled, gilded-cage existence.
held in the French daily Le Monde has Paris, transferring to Parsons there, Jane Stubbs, an antiquarian book-
BY CHRISTOPHER PETKANAS already been divested.) Ms. dHuart said. seller, was commissioned by Mr. Berg
Those who pictured Mr. Cox shuttling Mr. Berg got to know Mr. Cox better to create a Morocco-theme library for a
As two museums devoted to the de- luxuriously among the homes Mr. Berg during a trip they took with her and Mr. guest room at Mabrouka. She remem-
signer Yves Saint Laurent open this kept in Paris, Normandy, St.-Rmy-de- Le Bon to the Aeolian Islands the follow- bered arriving in Tangier with Madison
month, in Paris and Marrakesh, there is Provence, Marrakesh and Tangier will ing summer. and waiting at the luggage carousel. His
plenty of chatter in fashion and cafe so- be disappointed, according to Quito According to Mattia Bonetti, a furni- phone rang. It was Pierre. Where have
ciety (whats left of it) about the estate of Fierro, the chief administrative officer ture designer who knew Mr. Cox in you been? You were supposed to get in
Pierre Berg, the pugnacious business of the Jardin Majorelle Foundation. The Paris in the 1980s, Madison was first at 5:25. It was 5:27.
brain behind the original Yves Saint foundation is a subsidiary of the Pierre with Jol, then Yves, then finally The triangle collapsed during Christ-
Laurent fashion empire. Berg-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation Pierre. mas 1987, when, as Mr. Berg wrote, Mr.
Mr. Berg died of myopathy at 86 last that operates, along with the museum in After the holiday in the Aeolians, Saint Laurent began hiding tumblers of
month. In March, he had married Madi- Marrakesh, the public Majorelle Garden JEAN-LOUP GAUTREAU/AGANCE FRANCE-PRESSEGETTY IMAGES Madison ascended quickly in the Saint whiskey from him behind the Jacques
son Cox, a 59-year-old American garden and a museum of Berber culture there. Madison Cox, left, and Pierre Berg, right, shown in 1988. The men had an operatic, Laurent clan, Ms. dHuart said. Jol no Grange taffeta curtains at Gabriel.
designer, in a private, civil ceremony The vacation house Mr. Berg built in emotional triangle with Yves Saint Laurent before the designers death in 2008. longer measured up and was dropped. Mr. Cox retreated to New York, open-
near Deauville, France, making Mr. Cox Normandy was not his, Mr. Fierro said; The clan was like a tank that rolled over ing an office and remaking his life with
his presumptive legal heir. he simply retained the right to use the you, then moved on, laughing loudly Konstantin Kakanias, an illustrator and
Whatever the fiscal strategy behind house after selling it and Chteau Gabri- Laurent. weathered the storm, Mr. Berg contin- and shrugging, Who cares? Jol died artist. Mr. Berg took up with Robert
this union, Mr. Berg seemed deter- el, on the same grounds, following Mr. Christopher Gibbs, a neighbor in ued. He gave me what I needed: his of AIDS, forgotten. Merloz, a young designer he backed
mined to make one last symbolic point Saint Laurents death. Tangier, where Mr. Cox has a residence youth, culture, courage, integrity, love. Mr. Bonetti said that in the beginning, with company money. Mr. Merlozs col-
about their relationship, which lasted And the other residences including of his own, called him a saintly figure, I didnt leave you, Mr. Berg went on Mr. Cox and Mr. Berg saw each other, lection flopped.
more than 35 years and had involved an Villa Mabrouka in Tangier, which has which could not be said of Pierre. Mr. to write. I could have during this time not in a hidden way, but separate from Mr. Cox also enjoyed, and was some-
operatic, emotional triangle with Mr. been on and off the market in recent Gibbs, a retired dealer in high-bohemian with Madison, I almost did. Finally, it Yves, to avoid scenes. Over dinner one times inconvenienced by, what might be
Saint Laurent, who died in 2008. years with an asking price of around $10 antiques who dressed the sets for the was he whod had enough, who left. night when Mr. Cox had stepped away called amitis amoureuses (pararo-
As weddings go, it was unusual in at million will be sold to benefit the um- Mick Jagger film Performance, You loved him, hated him, then loved from the table, Mr. Bonetti said Mr. mantic friendships) with Ms. Stubbs
least one respect: Mr. Cox has another brella foundation, whose presidency has praised Mr. Cox for being such a won- him again. Berg asked him, What do I have to do and Marian McEvoy, the author of Glue
partner of 11 years, Jaimal Odedra, a Bol- passed from Mr. Berg to Mr. Cox, Mr. derful support to Pierre, through thick Maria Callas could not have sung the to keep him? I told him, You have to Gun Decor: How to Dress Up Your
lywood costume designer and creator of Fierro said. and thin, and for so many years. I weep strangulated story of Mr. Berg, Mr. give Madison everything, and I dont Home from Pillows and Curtains to
home accessories. No one should be worried about Mr. for Madison having all this responsibil- Saint Laurent and Mr. Cox any better. mean materially, because otherwise Sofas and Lampshades.
In a phone interview en route to her Coxs housing, however. Villa Oasis, the ity. Its beyond the call of duty. In 1976, nearly two decades after hes going to leave. Mr. Cox, with a B.F.A. in environmen-
home in Hughsonville, N.Y., Alison lavish Orientalist fantasy where Mr. Mr. Berg had more than one LAm- meeting, Mr. Berg broke romantically Mr. Berg felt obliged to engage tal design and an address book fortified
Spear, an architect who employed Mr. Berg lived in Marrakesh, is part of the our Fou (crazy love), the name he gave from Mr. Saint Laurent. Still, jealousy someone else for the garden at Gabriel, by Mr. Bergs, has never lacked busi-
Cox, a dear friend for 25 years, was Majorelle Foundation but is Mr. Coxs in the 2010 documentary about him and and possessiveness ran high, and the because of the tension that using Mr. ness. His clients include Michael
asked what made Mr. Cox and Mr. Ode- all but name, a perk that comes with the Mr. Saint Laurent. In published letters men remained business partners. Cox would have created with Mr. Saint Bloomberg, Marella Agnelli, Lauren
dra tick as a couple. guardianship of Mr. Saint Laurents ar- he wrote to Mr. Saint Laurent after the Accounts of the Cox-Berg introduc- Laurent. The job fell to a Louis Benech, Santo Domingo and Anne Bass, who let
Theyre both highly talented and ac- tistic legacy. designer died, he made Mr. Coxs place tion vary. Mr. Cox has placed it in Paris who would later turn his hand to the Tui- him loose on a thousand acres in Litch-
complished gentlemen, Ms. Spear said. For all the clucking and tallying, Mr. in the hierarchy of his heart clear. in 1978; Annabelle dHuart, a jewelry de- leries. I said to Pierre that I didnt see field County, Conn.
They complement each other. Cox and Mr. Berges wedding was met With you, Madison remains the most signer and member of the old Saint Lau- the point of my working at Gabriel when At one point Nancy Novogrod, a for-
Mr. Cox, the estates executor, de- with little more than a nod by those who important relationship of my life. He ar- rent tribe, puts their first meeting in he could hire his friend, Mr. Benech re- mer magazine editor, expressed interest
clined to be interviewed for this article. track the movements of the forbidding rived when alcohol and drugs had tak- New York a year earlier, when Mr. Cox called. Too complicated, he said. in hiring Mr. Cox in Litchfield. But the
But many have been unable to resist and glamorous, if increasingly dimin- en possession of you. was a student at Parsons. At the time, Period. message came back that he had given
making a quick mental inventory of Mr. ished, clan that surrounded Mr. Saint Thanks to Madison, probably, I Mr. Berg was involved with Jol Le Peter Dunham, a decorator in Los An- Ms. Bass an exclusive.
..
Sports
N.F.L. unity on anthem fades
down to injustice and your money The presidents tweets aside, the
On Pro Football huh? issue is in some ways taking care of
Goodells letter was sent two days itself. Hundreds of other players who
after the Dallas Cowboys owner Jerry protested two weeks ago, apparently
Jones a leader among owners, a more piqued at a president telling
BY KEN BELSON supporter of the president and never them what to do than the underlying
one to bite his tongue said in no causes the kneeling is supposed to
By appearances anyway, the N.F.L. uncertain terms that he would bench highlight, are now back to standing for
was one big family two weeks ago. any players who disrespect the flag. the anthem. Three players on the
After President Trump urged owners If we are disrespecting the flag, Dolphins who had knelt for the anthem
to fire players who did not stand for then we wont play. Period, Jones told in previous weeks chose on Sunday to
the national anthem, everyone from The Dallas Morning News. stay in the locker room, which was also
Commissioner Roger Goodell to the 32 On Twitter, the president congratu- in defiance of league policy. They were
team owners to the players and lated Jones for his stance: A big salute not fined.
coaches locked arms, in many cases to Jerry Jones, owner of the Dallas That may not be enough for some
literally, in defiance and unity. Cowboys, who will BENCH players owners, particularly when nearly two
That unanimity has all but vanished. who disrespect our Flag. Stand for dozen players on the San Francisco
As the president continues to harangue Anthem or sit for game! 49ers have continued to kneel. It was
the league over the anthem, and a The shifting attitudes should not the former quarterback of that team,
number of fans across the country seem shocking. First and foremost, the Colin Kaepernick, who ignited the
have expressed displeasure with the owners, particularly those who have round of anthem demonstrations by
handful of players who continue to paid hundreds of millions of dollars for kneeling during the anthem last sea-
kneel during the anthem, a growing their teams, want son to draw attention, he said, to racial
pool of owners is trying to defuse the to make money. oppression and fatal shootings by the
politically charged issue, even if it Jerry Jones From their point police of African-Americans.
means confronting the players the has made a of view, anything The Cowboys and other N.F.L.
owners previously sympathized with. business that draws atten- teams, as private businesses, can limit
One of the most powerful owners in tion from the what employees can say or do while
the league is speaking openly about
decision. Hes game, whether it working.
benching players who do not stand for in Dallas, Tex., is bullying in the To date, the league has not enforced
the anthem, and Goodell, who said and owns locker room, its rule that players must be on the
previously that players had a right to Americas domestic vio- sideline for the anthem and should
voice their opinions, is siding with the Team. lence, or sitting stand while it is being played, though
owners opposed to letting the players or kneeling dur- the wording in the league manual does
demonstrate. ing the anthem, not require standing.
The owners plan to meet next week could put the The collective bargaining agree-
to establish what to do about the an- television networks that broadcast the ment, though, requires that these and
them gestures. games and the leagues corporate other rules cannot be changed after
Like many of our fans, we believe sponsors in an awkward spot. the start of training camp. Joe Lock-
that everyone should stand for the At this moment, Jerry Jones has hart, a league spokesman, said no fines
national anthem, Goodell said in a made a business decision, said Frank had been issued for players not on the
letter sent to owners Tuesday. Zaccanelli, a former part owner of the sidelines but he declined to say if pen-
He added that the league cared Dallas Mavericks who knows Jones alties would be levied.
about the issues the players are trying well. Hes in Dallas, Tex., and owns If the league suddenly began fining,
to highlight, including social injustice Americas Team. If any business took a benching or suspending players who
and police brutality toward African- 10 to 12 percent business hit, red lights did not stand for the anthem, the union
Americans. But he said that the con- would be going off. If youve got 50 might sue, said Michael LeRoy, who
troversy over the anthem is a barrier percent of your people against you, you teaches sports law at the University of
to having honest conversations and are going to have drastic changes. Illinois, Urbana-Champaign.
making real progress on the underly- The owners, however, also want to Theres a basic fairness issue when
ing issues. avoid a showdown with the players you change a rule during the season,
The league might find resistance union, and even some of their best LeRoy said. On paper, its not a
from players for any new directive on players. After Jones threw down the change in the rule, but in reality it is.
the anthem, setting the course for gauntlet on Sunday, the N.F.L. Players Still, Lockhart, hinting at potential
more public tension. Association issued a statement defend- action by the owners, added, Every-
Martellus Bennett, a tight end for ing its members right to free expres- one here is frustrated by the process
the Green Bay Packers, was quick to sion. We should not stifle these dis- and particularly the politics around
REBECCA BLACKWELL/ASSOCIATED PRESS
question the commissioners motives, cussions and cannot allow our rights to this.
Down and out United States national soccer team defender Matt Besler after Trinidad and Tobagos stunning 2-1 upset writing on Twitter: @nflcommish become subservient to the very opin- The owners, he said, would meet
ended the Americans chances of qualifying for the 2018 World Cup in Russia. The last World Cup for which the United States really bruh? Its hard trying to play ions our Constitution protects, the next week in New York and will be
failed to qualify was in 1986. The American teams defeat capped a dramatic final day of qualifying on multiple continents. both sides of the fence when it comes union said. discussing what steps to take next.
NON SEQUITUR PEANUTS DOONESBURY CLASSIC 1989
GARFIELD CALVIN AND HOBBES
SUDOKU No. 1210
WIZARD of ID DILBERT
(c) PZZL.com Distributed by The New York Times syndicate
Created by Peter Ritmeester/Presented by Will Shortz
KENKEN CROSSWORD | Edited by Will Shortz

Fill the grid so Solution No. 1110 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
that every row,

column 3x3 box Fill the grids with digits so as not 13 14 15
to repeat a digit in any row or
Note: The one-word 34 Lickers 67 Instants
and shaded 3x3
column, and so that the digits
Across clues all 36 Sites 68 Bye
box contains
16 17 18
within each heavily outlined box
have an unusual
38 Clothes
each of the relationship with their
numbers will produce the target number answers. 39 Rolls Down 19 20 21
1 to 9 exactly shown, by using addition, 40 Bate 1 Heisman winner

subtraction, multiplication or
Across 22 23
Newton
once.
division, as indicated in the box.
1 Mined 41 Throe
2 On
A 4x4 grid will use the digits 42 Lodes
5 Cents 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
For solving tips 3 Broccoli ___
and more puzzles: 1-4. A 6x6 grid will use 1-6. 9 Male 43 Wring 4 English poet Sitwell
www.nytimes.com/
32 33 34 35 36 37
13 Sum 44 Flour
sudoku
For solving tips and more KenKen
5 Introspective query
14 Ceded 46 Hoes
puzzles: www.nytimes.com/
38 39 40
6 Not pay attention
kenken. For Feedback: nytimes@
15 Peeks 48 Blew during a lecture, say
kenken.com
41 42 43
16 Mustard 49 Hews 7 Shes sheared
18 Whit 51 Sine 8 ___ the Giant, first 44 45 46 47 48
19 We 53 Re inductee in the W.W.E.
KenKen is a registered trademark of Nextoy, LLC. Hall of Fame
Copyright 2017 www.KENKEN.com. All rights reserved. 20 Writes 56 Flea 49 50 51 52
9 It starts On my honor,
22 Meet 59 Rhodes I will do my best 53 54 55 56 57 58
23 Bass 60 Slight 10 Watson or Thompson
Answers to Previous Puzzles 24 Handsome 63 Inn of 2017s Beauty and 59 60 61 62
the Beast
27 Tale 64 Dun
11 Diamond with 21 63 64 65
29 Knows 65 Steak platinum albums
32 Missal 66 Chute 12 Army awards just 66 67 68
Solution to October 11 Puzzle below Medals of

Honor: Abbr. PUZZLE BY ALEX EATON-SALNERS
M A C A O W I L T S I G A 15 One for whom work is 30 Some works at MoMA 39 Max ___, 53 Pleased
I L O S T I N E R T K O D play? and the Art Institute popular video game 54 Priest from on high?
D O C H O L L I D A Y E N D 17 Ones spinning webs? series of the 2000s
of Chicago 55 Are you ___ out?
T O E H O L D M E S C A L
21 Comment during 31 Big name in 43 Vice president after
B O L T S A L V E
bidding 56 Kramer and Kramer,
A N G S T W E L L L A Y S Biden in Kramer vs.
household appliances
R E U N I F Y C A J U N 23 Troubles with timber 45 Declaration on a Kramer
B A N A N A R A T T L E 24 Bills that one doesnt 33 160 acres per farmer, Chinese menu
in the Homestead Act 57 Material for a
F R O I D M A K E O U T mind piling up
47 Grayish to yellowish mountain cabin
B O I L R E M O E R N I E 25 Believed with no of 1862
brown 58 ___ James, 2008
A N G E L F I N E questions asked 35 Classical
O C H R E S M I N N O W S 50 One who may Beyonc role
26 Megaphone noise rebuke order an operation,
B A T T H E O K C O R R A L 61 One of the Gabors of
A L A G E E S E S C E N E 28 ___ Sea, body greatly 37 Fast-forwarded, with informally old Hollywood
B L T O S K A R H A N G S
diminished by Russian
irrigation projects up 52 Designer Donna 62 Suffix with saw
..
Culture
Magic in Disneys seedy shadow
The Florida Project
looks at the hidden
homeless in America
BY CARA BUCKLEY
One of the more coveted places to be

during the Toronto International Film
Festival the awards season spring-
board held in early September was
the first press and industry screening of
the Cannes hit The Florida Project,
which was shown in a big theater that
quickly filled past capacity.
Luckless latecomers wandered the
aisles until a festival volunteer hollered,
in a tone sharply uncharacteristic of Ca-
nadians, that, very sorry, but people
without seats would have to leave. It
was just one marker of the anticipation
that had already built for the picture,
which was directed and co-written by
Sean Baker, the man behind what may
be the most ambitious work of art ever
shot on an iPhone, his 2015 critically
hailed film, Tangerine.
Tangerine told of transgender pros-
titutes hustling up a living in Los Ange-
les, and The Florida Project which
drew its title from Walt Disneys early
name for his Sunshine State theme park
explores lives on the so-called mar-
gins, too. Set in a seedy purple-cotton-
candy-hued motel (a real-life joint, the
Magic Castle) on a schlocky strip near
Disney World, the film follows a carefree
6-year-old girl, Moonee, who lives there
with her very young, very poor, wild and
vituperative mother, Halley.
While Tangerine was a modest
breakout hit, earning seven times its
$100,000 budget during a limited theatri-
cal run, The Florida Project is Mr.
Bakers most anticipated picture yet. JOYCE KIM FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
Buoyed by a high 90s Rotten Tomatoes The Florida Project actors, from left, Willem Dafoe, Brooklynn Prince and Bria Vinaite with their director, Sean Baker, in Beverly Hills recently. Mr. Dafoe is the only well-known name in the cast.
rating, it was released, with fanfare, last
Friday by A24, whose titles include
Moonlight, the 2016 indie that landed their home. Ms. Prince recalled telling the Bay Ridge neighborhood of Brook-
the Academy Award for best picture. Brooklynn to forget acting like a cheesy lyn and left home at 17, said she almost
Built into The Florida Project rollout commercial girl and instead wholly backed out of the flight to Florida that
was the indie-world hope that it would imagine herself in Moonees shoes, ad- Mr. Baker had booked for her. I was re-
approximate the success of Beasts of vice that helped lead to a performance ally sketched out, Ms. Vinaite, who is
the Southern Wild, the 2012 Oscar- that has had critics calling Brooklynn a now 24, said in a recent FaceTime inter-
nominated picture, and surprise hit, that real find and a revelation. view. Am I really flying to the middle of
also was about a Southern girl living an I dont cuss and I dont yell at some- nowhere? Am I making a smart deci-
impoverished and magical childhood. body, Brooklynn said, comparing her- sion?
Made for just a few million dollars, self with Moonee, as she shared the Mr. Baker had Ms. Vinaite prepare ex-
The Florida Project will also test audi- Skype screen with her mom. But I eat tensively with his partner, the actress
ence appetites for a low-budget film maple syrup and ice cream and every- Samantha Quan, who coached out of Ms.
largely peopled by first-time actors, thing she eats. Vinaite a performance described on
whom Mr. Baker recruited from, among Mr. Baker filled other crucial roles in Mashable as so natural, so seemingly
other places, a Target store in Kissim- the unconventional, painstaking man- effortless, that its tempting to believe
mee, Fla., and Instagram. In a departure ner that has become something of a hall- that shes not acting at all.
from his earlier pictures, Mr. Baker did mark, poring over social media and ap- The gravitational center of the film is
cast, with some trepidation, a name- proaching people on the street. held by Mr. Dafoe. His menschy charac-
brand actor in a principal role: Willem He cast Valeria Cotto, a first-time ac- ter was created by Mr. Baker and Mr.
Dafoe plays the motels kindly and be- tress, as Moonees young friend Jancey Bergoch after they met real-life motel
leaguered manager. A24 after happening upon her and her managers torn between running a busi-
My fear, even with Willem, was one Valeria Cotto, left, and Brooklynn Prince in the film, set in a motel near Disney World in Florida. mother at Target. Christopher Rivera ness and caring for families on the brink
recognizable face would pull us out of had been living with his family in the of eviction. Mr. Dafoe, whose perform-
that moment, Mr. Baker said during a Magic Castle himself when Mr. Baker ance has kicked up awards talk, said
lunchtime interview in the West Village ginalized communities, subcultures and on Tangerine, a success that would wanted a perfect package of physicality, tapped him to play another youngster, that while he was conscious of being the
of Manhattan, days after his films run at minorities, the less marginalized they make paying for The Florida Project a the cuteness, the wit, the extroverted Scooty. Mela Murder, who plays Halleys most seasoned actor on set, his biggest
the Toronto festival, where it picked up will be, he wrote. whole lot easier. character trait of hers, he said. friend and fellow single mom, landed the job was to fit in.
more ballyhoos and a big thumbs up The idea for The Florida Project It was probably serendipity and per- Now 7, Brooklynn lives with her role after Mr. Baker saw her in the short I may have slightly different skills,
from the singer Drake. Especially for came about five years ago, inspired by fect timing, Mr. Baker said. If I had mother, father and 7-month-old goblin film Gang, and Sandy Kane, the New but I want to forget those skills, he said,
what we were trying to do, with audi- news stories about families the hid- made the film five years ago, Brooklynn brother (her term) in Winter Springs, York personality known as Times speaking from Australia, where he was
ences attaching to these characters, he den homeless living hand-to-mouth wouldnt have been in the film, so it all north of Orlando. While she had done Squares wizened Naked Cowgirl, won filming Aquaman. Anytime you can
continued, one moment out of the sus- in cheap motels after losing jobs and works out. I cant imagine this without some modeling and a few commercials, the part of a Magic Castle resident with kind of forget being an actor, its great.
pension of disbelief would ruin us. homes in the Great Recession. Mr. Brooklynn. her parents initially had doubts that she a penchant for topless sunbathing. Although his character ended up be-
Mr. Baker has a yen for telling untold Baker and his writing and production Brooklynn is Brooklynn Prince, who could pull off Moonee, who, for all her Perhaps the riskiest move was hiring ing the grounding element of the film,
stories from societys fringes; the sub- partner, Chris Bergoch, homed in on plays Moonee, The Florida Projects adorability, is more or less a foul- another first-time actress, Bria Vinaite, Mr. Dafoe said what kept him grounded
jects of his earlier films include a Chi- tourist lodgings that had become quasi- precocious, mouthy, utterly convincing mouthed delinquent. Brooklynn hadnt a heavily tattooed, free-spirited Brook- himself, and tethered to the reality of
nese deliveryman and a Ghanaian welfare motels in central Florida, and young heroine. Mr. Baker had been look- so much as talked back, said her mother, lynite, to play Moonees mother, Halley. that world, were the real-life people liv-
handbag peddler. His movies, he wrote plotted out a story that mirrored a Dis- ing for the modern-day equivalent of Courtney Prince, who is an acting coach. Mr. Baker said he had considered A-list ing in the motels including Christo-
in an email following our chat, were re- ney theme the young princess with an Spanky McFarlane, from the Depres- Shes never upset, never mad. Shes a names but was struck by the dance vid- pher and other residents who served as
sponses to what he is not seeing in imperiled mother told from societys sion-era Our Gang pictures, and said really easygoing kid, and I remember eos and paeans to marijuana Ms. Vinaite extras in the film. They were struggling
American cinema. underbelly. But after struggling to get fi- he knew Brooklynn was his gal within telling Sean, I dont know if she has this had posted on Instagram. Ms. Vinaite, to make it through the next week.
If more stories are told about mar- nancing, the pair shelved it and started seconds of their meeting. We really in her, Ms. Prince said by Skype from who was born in Lithuania, grew up in That, he said, keeps you on track.
Lost, and found, in translation

format, translated dialogue for foreign- crucial. The interplay between visual course, but also enthusiasts.) We have
Well-executed subtitles language movies was printed onto the fields and stillness and silence is really teams around the world, and we can get
film itself. Video technology made this important. You cant really preserve a half-hour episode of an anime series
can give online film fans unnecessary. DVDs and Blu-rays can that with a dubbed soundtrack. Mr. translated and subtitled, with our own
an excellent experience have multiple subtitled translations au- Decker also notes that creating a new software, in 12 hours. Crunchyrolls
thored, or encoded onto the disc, sepa- dubbed soundtrack involves a signifi- newest language, Mr. Decker said, is
BY GLENN KENNY rate from the movies image; called up cant investment. But while a bad or in- Russian.
from a menu, the subtitles are superim- sensitive dub can kill a piece of ma- Crunchyroll mostly translates from
When I worked at a prominent movie posed in sync with the movie. terial, he continued, a good subtitling Japanese. Netflix has a bigger back-
magazine many years back, Id often A lot of subtitling on streaming video translation, made with empathy for the and-forth linguistic challenge. The ma-
hear from executives and filmmakers follows the same principle. But rather audience and the creator, provides a jor differentiator for Netflix subtitles
who invested in independent and for- than being authored onto a disc, subti- great new experience. versus DVD is scale, Marlee Tart, a cor-
eign movies that The Kids Today simply tles will either be attached to the video How is the empathy ensured? The an- porate public relations officer at Netflix,
refused to watch foreign films with Eng- material, in a way similar to printing or swer goes back to the sites origins. said. She explained that the company
lish subtitles. And what a shame this burning them in, or be available as Crunchyroll was founded by computer has had to develop its own tools to create
was. While it was true that foreign-lan- closed captions, which exist in a server engineers who wanted to get hold of new and manage the huge number of subtitle
guage pictures in the 1990s never cloud along with the other components anime without resorting to bootlegs. assets that Netflixs content makes
reached the consistent heights of popu- of a movie or series. Once the user One thing that was notable about a lot of necessary. The tools were easily ad-
larity in the United States that they had chooses to watch a film with its subtitles, privately circulated anime before dressed in our engineering team, Ms.
in the 60s and 70s, I was mostly offered the streaming service pulls all the com- Crunchyroll was that fans would devot- Tart wrote in an email, and we have
anecdotal evidence of a bias against ponents together and displays them at edly translate and subtitle the episodes built a highly scaled pipeline for ingest-
subtitles. once. If theres a glitch, youll get subti- using home video superimposition tech- ing and processing subtitles, and detect-
My explorations of the streaming tles running ahead or behind the mov- nology, with results better than what ing a wide range of issues.
world and encounters with enthusiasts ies action. Theres not much to be done AMAZON studios provided at that time. One can imagine how wide, given that
suggest to me that theres not a lot of in this case except start over and hope A shot from the trailer for the Bollywood romantic comedy Badrinath Ki Dulhania. Official subtitling was a little more Netflix reaches more than 100 countries.
anti-subtitle feeling out there. Checking everything comes together properly. assembly line, Mr. Decker said. As it happens, the Japanese language
out the world of streaming video over There are other possible snags. In Au- Cranked out. And fans said accuracy posed a challenge for this streaming
the past year, Ive accumulated some gust, I explored the Amazon channel captioning on a new iPad recently, and it The anime-focused Crunchyroll does matters. The medium drew them in to company. When we started working
anecdotal evidence of my own, which Heera, which offers a variety of South was substantially better a bigger dis- not entirely eschew dubbed material, strive to understand the foreign culture, our Japanese subtitles, we found that
leads me to conclude that subtitling is Asian cinema. Some of the films there, play, a look that was almost like good- but its viewers, of which there are more which raised the bar on the quality of the there was no open standard that sup-
not a problem for contemporary view- like Listen . . . Amaya, have subtitles quality subtitles on a DVD or Blu-ray. than 20 million, appear to prefer subti- translation. Crunchyroll staffs its subti- ported the important and unique Japa-
ers, particularly younger ones with in- printed on; others, like the rom-com This is just the nature of the beast when tles to dubbing. The sites chief operat- tling force with many such fans, and nese features, including vertical text,
terests in genre material. I began look- Badrinath Ki Dulhania, have closed- the provider is putting up films using ing officer, Colin Decker, addressed the theyre responsible for quickly translat- she said. The company is still working
ing into the subject in detail recently be- captions only, which, as Ive said, are su- standard software. issue recently. ing the new anime programs. (The idea on a solution. In order to do Japanese
cause of the uneven quality of the subti- perimposed titles synced up to the film Through a spokeswoman, Amazon Anime is a unique medium, an art of fan translation is not as newfangled subtitles well, we have had to invest a
tles themselves. material. When I watched Badrinath declined to comment for this article, but form in and of itself, Mr. Decker said. as it sounds; in the postwar era, Herman significant amount of time in subtitle
The ins and outs of subtitling are too on my plasma display from an Amazon in past exchanges on this topic Ive re- Japanese artists have a different phi- G. Weinberg and Donald Ritchie trans- standardization work, Ms. Tart said.
complex to get into in much detail here. Video feed off a PlayStation 4, the closed ceived indications that the company is losophy of animating; motion is not as lated into English many classics of Eu- This effort is ongoing, and we hope to
In the days when celluloid was the pre- captions looked very small on my 50- in the process of improving its subtitling important as composition and framing. ropean and Japanese cinema; these have a single, global subtitle standard
dominant movie production and display inch screen. I tried the Heera closed- practices. And the soundtrack, in the original, is men were critics and academics of by the end of 2018.
..
culture
A Dynasty for generation Gossip Girl

she said. I dont think women around
ATLANTA
the world are going to be happy with this
rich billionaire in his 50s dating some-
one whos under 30, and that threshold
The series that epitomized makes a big difference.
As Mr. Show put it: People are
1980s excess has been younger today. The whole shows
updated for a new era younger.
Indeed if any demographic is ne-
BY ALEXANDRA JACOBS glected in the new version, it is the Mod-
ern Maturity set. Ms. Collins was 48
This is not your mothers Dynasty, when she first swept into the courtroom
with its power suits, Bill Conti trumpet when Blake was being tried for the mur-
riff and bracing whiff of Giorgio per- der of his son Stevens male lover; Mr.
fume. Forsythe was 63. Later additions from
Created by Richard and Esther Sha- the golden age of Hollywood, Diahann
piro in 1981 to compete with Dallas, Carroll and Rock Hudson, were in their
Dynasty became the crown jewel of 50s the latters death of AIDS in 1985
Aaron Spellings television empire of provoking a national conversation
primetime soap operas, symbolizing a about whether hed jeopardized Ms. Ev-
decade of American excess. But the 2017 anss health with their onscreen kiss.
version is set not against the snow- As the cast awaits its Alexis, conflict
capped mountains and glassy down- has been heightened between Cristal
town spires of Denver, but in this and Fallon: a role played first by Pamela
steamy, leafy city that begat Gone With Sue Martin, then known for Nancy
the Wind and Spanx. Drew and The Poseidon Adventure,
The cast isnt snow white anymore ei- and subsequently by the British actress
ther. Krystle Carrington now spelled Emma Samms, in one of those switcher-
Cristal, like the expensive champagne oos that soap viewers are supposed to
is Latina, as is her niece Sammy Jo, accept unblinkingly but now discuss for
whos become her gay nephew. The rival years afterward in searchable online
Colby family is African-American. Who forums. (A casting change for Steven
will play Alexis the character that was attributed to plastic surgery follow-
made Joan Collins a star and gave the ing an explosive accident on an oil rig,
original series, which got lackluster re- but producers decided simply to ignore
views and ratings in its first season, an Fallons change in appearance.)
instant amphetamine shot is thus far As embodied by Ms. Gillies, Fallon
a mystery being guarded like the Pyra- has been upgraded from a somewhat
mids. (We joke that Alexis is transgen- lost soul, climbing in and out of beds and
dered, said Sallie Patrick, the new Dy- winsomely up trees and later, on a
nastys showrunner.) spin-off called The Colbys, being ab-
And Blake Carrington, the stern but ducted by aliens to an ambitious busi-
benevolent paterfamilias originated by nesswoman, still sleeping with the
John Forsythe, has been taken over by chauffeur but now also leaning in with a
perhaps the only recognizable cast steely glare.
member to those of a certain age: Grant Ms. Gillies, 24, said she had admired
Show of Melrose Place. Ms. Collins since seeing her in The
The new show arrived on Wednesday Flintstones in Viva Rock Vegas as a
on the CW, whose youth-centered pro- JACE DOWNS/CW child and now regularly retweets the
gramming has lately relied, with mid- Above, the new Dynasty, with Grant Show as the tycoon Blake Carrington and Nathalie Kelley as Cristal, his wife. From left below, Elizabeth Gillies as the new Fallon, Blakes older womans Throwback Thursday
dling results, on superheroes. It has daughter, who frequently clashes with Cristal (Ms. Kelley), and Linda Evans, who played Krystle in the original and often battled with Blakes ex-wife, Alexis (Joan Collins). hashtags to her own 4.6 million follow-
been not so much created as concocted ers (thanks mainly to her role on Vic-
by Stephanie Savage and Josh Schwartz torious). Im not playing Alexis but
who sold soap to an Axe body wash Fallon has inherited a lot of her gusto,
generation with Gossip Girl and The Ms. Gillies said. Shes less passive than
O.C. as a layer cake of nostalgia and at least Pamela Sue Martin was she
novelty to tempt both extremes of the 18- had a relaxed nature. I wouldnt say that
49 demographic coveted by advertisers. my Fallon is as relaxed, for better or for
Were changing up the point of en- worse. I think shes got a lot more bite.
try, Mr. Schwartz said. If you were a She is also entwined enough with
fan of the original, it honors the spirit of Blake that some early viewers have sug-
that. And then those new to the show gested her character resembles Ivanka
should be ready for a fun, twisted serial. Trump, and for them Ms. Gillies has de-
Downton Abbey and Billions veloped a one-line rejoinder: I have
have showed that viewers still enjoy the better shoes, she said, striding away in
foibles of the rich. But reboots have be- a pair of Christian Louboutin heels.
come iffy propositions, with originals Neither iteration of Dynasty can be
readily available on Amazon Prime and separated from its devotion to material-
in DVD box sets. The revival of Dallas, ism and the one percent. I just have
on TNT, was canceled after three sea- memories of how white the rooms were,
sons in 2014, even with the draw of origi- the carpet thats what the rich have,
nal cast members. Dynasty has none said Ms. Patrick, the showrunner, who
thus far (one, Gordon Thomson, called grew up in Atlanta.
the new show an abomination in an in- But the very rich are not only differ-
terview with The Daily Beast). Some ent from you and me, but from how they
fans, however, have hopefully proposed used to be. The 2017 Colbys made their
Heather Locklear, the original Sammy money in tech, the Carrington children
Jo and another Melrose veteran, to are concerned about the environment
play Alexis, Cristals archrival. MARK HILL/CW PHOTOFEST and everyone accepts differences in
But she was nowhere in evidence here race and sexual orientation unblink-
this summer on a cavernous sound- mother, his ex-wife Alexis, for a cosmet- ing table surrounded by expensive art. resonant, though of course tangling In the original, Blake is shutting the ingly. The once dithering Steven is now
stage, which was home to an update of ics line. He filmed straight-on, close to camera. bloodlines are a dramatic device as old door in her face because she has to have gay and proud, Ms. Patrick said.
the Carrington mansion, where this re- The Dynasty name was also tar- You could tell an Aaron show in less than as the ancient Greeks. From the Clin- a meeting and shes trying to get a word Thats not his issue with his father; its
porter spent many happy escapist hours nished by the time Mr. Show met Mr. a second. tons to the Kennedys, this isnt a new in about the china or something, Ms. that hes a liberal.
as a pre-teen, learning nothing less than Spelling, whose Holmby Hills, Calif., The new Dynasty, in contrast, has thing, our fascination with these really Kelley said. Shes not really given much Mr. Show said he thought this Blake
how to be a woman. mansion seemed a version of Blake Car- Ms. Savage and Mr Schwartzs own dis- powerful families, said Nathalie Kelley, to do besides be beautiful and look after has a lot more pathology than his pred-
Lip-plumping treatments, Mr. Show, ringtons, on Melrose. He remembered tinct aesthetic. Scenes are shorter: who plays Cristal. But one thing weve the house. ecessor. Crew members were hammer-
compactly handsome at 55, was mutter- the older man as strict and stingy, using three or four minutes as opposed to six talked about which is interesting is pa- This Cristal begins in public relations ing behind him at the opulent set, with
ing in between takes, rolling the phrase so-called honey wagons to remove or seven. Skirts are also shorter. Music triarchy how much it has shifted, and and goes on to contest fiercely with Fal- its staircase built for flouncing down
around in his mouth like one of the top- sewage rather than install proper is louder. Lighting is dimmer. Slo-mo is how much its stayed the same. lon to become chief operating officer of OHara-style, and twinkling chande-
shelf brandies Mr. Forsythes Blake Car- plumbing, but also possessing a certain occasionally deployed. And knowing The former Krystle (Linda Evans) the Carrington energy company. liers.
rington favored. Lip-plumping treat- thespian gravitas. references are rife, including to Trumps, had been Blakes secretary, positioned She is also young enough to be his He tells untruths when he doesnt
ments. Aaron used to say, putting his hands Kardashians and Murdochs. in perpetual saintly opposition to the de- daughter, though Ms. Kelley argued that need to and I dont know why yet, Im
Blake had just delivered to his head- up and framing your face in a very That the White House currently con- vious Alexis and meekly tiptoeing at 33 she is past an age that could pro- developing the character, Mr. Show
strong daughter, Fallon (Elizabeth square, just your face way, My shows tains a real-estate tycoon familiar around the Carrington mansion like the voke eye rolls. When I first met with said. Im taking that as seriously as I
Gillies), the bad news that their family are all about character, Mr. Show said from the 80s, yet and his scions nameless heroine of Daphne du Mauri- Josh and Stephanie, I was like, I think possibly can, and then it cuts to a cat-
name had been trademarked by her during a break in taping, sitting at a din- makes Dynasty seem particularly ers Rebecca. Cristal needs to be at least in her 30s, fight.
Surgical disasters, private shames

cians, surgeons especially, because again, he describes his operating fluous brain surgery or a botched and he continues to do so hes com-
BOOK REVIEW
theyve left their futures the very theater in all of its Grand Guignol one are grim, and if Devs pro- petitive and impatient and has a bad
possibility of one at all, in some cases splendor, with brains swelling beyond cedures go awry, the angriest families temper. He had an adulterous affair at
ADMISSIONS: LIFE in their doctors custody. So we their skulls and suction devices slurp- dont just complain or sue, as they do some point, and at another went
AS A BRAIN SURGEON quickly learn to deceive, Marsh ing obscenely as tumors evade his in England. They threaten violence. through a bitter divorce. He ended his
By Henry Marsh. 271 pp. Thomas Dunne writes, to pretend to a greater level of reach. Devs daughter was once kidnapped at career in an almost vaudevillian ges-
Books. $26.99. competence and knowledge than we Some of the procedures are surpris- gunpoint for a ransom. ture of ignominy, tweaking the nose of
know to be the case, and try to shield ingly crude. Theyre basically car- Admissions contains other cross- a male nurse who refused to remove a
BY JENNIFER SENIOR our patients a little from the frighten- pentry with blood. (Carpentry, the cultural musings. Marsh riffs on the patients nasogastric tube.
ing reality they often face. old-fashioned kind, is actually one of excesses of American medicine, which He also ended a long, meaningful
In 2003, the Washington Post col- Over time, Marsh writes, many Marshs most passionate hobbies.) continue to amaze him. Shortly before friendship with a Ukrainian surgeon he
umnist Marjorie Williams, struggling doctors start to internalize the stories But in this book, Marsh has retired, retiring, he visited the Texas Medical had annually visited and assisted.
with liver cancer, wrote that she had they tell themselves about their superi- which means hes taking a thorough Center in Houston, where he was Though he probably did so for the right
finally figured out what bothered her or judgment and skill. But the best, he inventory of his life. His reflections shown an electric screwdriver for reasons. The particulars are best left to
so much about then-presidential candi- adds, unlearn their self-deceptions and and recollections make Admissions securing titanium plates into the skull. be read.
date Howard Dean: his doctorly arro- come to accept their fallibility and an even more introspective memoir It was state-of-the-art, probably expen- Marshs retirement is busy but anx-
gance. Where else but in medicine, learn from their mistakes. We always than his first, if such a thing is possi- sive; he estimated it would save five ious. For the first time, he feels a real
she asked, do you find men and wom- learn more from failure than from ble. And because hes getting older, his seconds over a manual one. He was kinship with his patients. The older he
en who never admit a mistake? success, he writes. Success teaches own mortality has become a central similarly shocked (and spooked) when gets, the more likely it becomes that
Actually, this happens quite fre- us nothing. preoccupation if his brain were a pie he saw trainees practicing surgery on hell have to face the same irresolvable
quently in politics too. But point taken. This was a prominent theme in chart, death would be a fairly substan- a severed head where did they get dilemmas they did about prolonging
Henry Marsh is in the business of Marshs first book, and readers may tial slice. it? No one had a clue. When Marsh life. We have to choose between prob-
admitting his mistakes. Its right there have a sense of dj vu while reading Much of Admissions also takes ALESSANDRA MONTALTO/THE NEW YORK TIMES returned to England two weeks later, abilities, not certainties, and that is
in the title of his second memoir this one. Like Do No Harm, Admis- place abroad, because Marsh spends he told a colleague about it. difficult, he writes. How probable is it
Admissions: Life as a Brain Surgeon sions is wandering and ruminative, an the first phase of his retirement in Yet the reasons are different. The Only one? the colleague replied. I that we will gain how many extra
and it was the central theme of his overland trek through the doctors Nepal, working alongside his friend patients Dev treats dont feel entitled had 15 heads, freeze-dried, flown in years of life, and what might the qual-
first, Do No Harm, published in his anxieties and private shames. Once Dev, who has set up a private hospital to these operations so much as dazzled from the U.S. for my skull base work- ity of those years be?
native England to wide acclaim in 2014 again, he recounts his miscalculations for neurosurgery in Kathmandu. by them, with an exaggerated faith shop last year. Hes terrified of dying in a hospital,
and in the United States a year later. and surgical catastrophes, citing the Marsh has thus been turned into a in their success. They have no con- The most startling aspect of Admis- cared for by fleets of indifferent strang-
One of the reasons patients find French doctor Ren Leriches observa- foreign correspondent, reporting on ception of brain damage, Dev tells sions, however, has nothing to do with ers. He opens Admissions by telling
condescension from doctors especially tion that all surgeons carry cemeteries how medicine is practiced in this poor, Marsh. They think that if the patient medicine. Its how Marsh portrays us hes acquired a suicide kit, in case
loathsome is that it diminishes them within themselves of the patients polyethnic country, recently ravaged is alive they might recover. Many himself. As a young man, he writes, he his death is painful and slow, and he
if youre gravely ill, the last thing you whose lives theyve lost. Once again, by civil war. Among his most sobering patients (or their families) refuse to was close to suicidal and spent time in closes with a civilized discussion of
need is further diminishment. But the he rails against the constraints of an observations: Only in America have I accept it when Dev tells them that an a psychiatric hospital. At the same euthanasia. But he confesses he does-
desires of patients, Marsh notes, are increasingly depersonalized British seen so much treatment devoted to so operation is not worth it or too danger- time, he adds, he always was a nt know if hed ever have the courage
often paradoxical. They also pine for health care system, which mummifies many people with such little chance of ous. tremendous show-off. to hasten his own death. Which may be
supreme confidence in their physi- its doctors in spools of red tape. Once making a useful recovery. Its a tragedy. The results of a super- He also struggled with aggression his most profound admission of all.
..
travel
In landlocked Milan, try the catch of the day

HEADS UP
Italys biggest fish market

is in the city, so restaurants
get highest quality seafood
BY LAURA RYSMAN
Milan has no sea. It has no river or lake,

just a few ebbing canals. But this land-
locked city is famous for some of the best
seafood in the long peninsula of Italy,
thanks mostly to the concrete ware-
house of the Mercato Ittico that my
guide, Sandra Ciciriello, had sneaked
me inside.
Ms. Ciciriello, a fishmonger who be-
came the procurer and sommelier of Mi-
lans renowned Alice restaurant, has
spent 30 years of achingly early morn-
ings here at Italys biggest fish market,
and she feels entitled to smuggle jour-
nalists into her turf.
The best catches end up at this mar-
ket, won by Milans high-spending deal-
ers at dockside auctions as the fish ar-
rives on shore. In a city where the heavy
traditional cuisine of cotoletta and saf-
PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAURA ERICA LA MONACA FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
fron risotto doesnt inspire the rhap-
sodies of other Italian regional cooking, Clockwise from left: Pescheria I Pesci-
this is how seafood becomes the surpris- olini, a fish stand with tables in Milan;
ing champion of an inland food scene. prawns with a yuzu granita at Alice; and
Though a football field of marine life boxes of seafood at Mercato Ittico, the
was laid out before us, there was only a citys main fish market.
whiff of fish in the air. Good fish doesnt
smell, Ms. Ciciriello said. Around us,
good fish was for sale in every direction: waterfront. Last September, they inau-
live baby squid; upside-down octopus gurated their Milan outpost, supplied by
splayed like tentacled stars; a pair of their longtime southern fishermen
swordfish lay poised on a wood crate, rather than the citys market. Just steps
their beaks crossed in a petrified duel. from Corso Como, the narrow hallway of
Ms. Ciciriello gripped a prismy snapper a space is crammed with young locals
I fell in love with this work for the most days, the tables shimmering with
colors, she told me. The colors? The glasses of white and ros.
fish theyre like oil paintings. the woozy, soothing impression of being tory, and though it doesnt come cheap, Milanese scenesters. Beyond the new More humbly low-key, Pescheria I It feels sunny against the sometimes
She picked with her eyes, selecting aboard a boat. the grand seafood journey created by restaurants bronze central bar is an Pesciolini is a neighborhood joint in Mi- gray backdrop of Milan, especially when
boxes of bonito, branzino, clams and Sit down at a table, and you will hardly Alices masterful and inventive chef is a open kitchen lined with window boxes of lans center. Youre dining at a fish an order of briny delicacies arrives: a
gurnards for the days meals at Alice, use a fork. Salad comes in a finger-food profound reminder of the revelatory oysters, mussels, shrimp and lobster stand with tables, owner Simone Rozza savory Pugliese cartellata of deep-fried
which she founded with the chef Viviana bouquet with edible flowers. Creamed pleasures of eating out. waiting to be steamed and piled on icy said. The seafood purveyor expanded dough piled high with tuna carpaccio,
Varese a decade ago a rare female codfish is served in a cone and topped The flavor explorations that Ms. Va- plateaus. with a full restaurant in 2016, but its the buttery stracciatella cheese, and green
team in charge in Italy. Since 2014, the with orange rind shavings, like a fra- rese serves are a rarefied treat, but for The signature dishes are plain-spo- vitrine stocked with the days catches chili peppers, alongside a sandwich of
Michelin-starred fish restaurant, whose grant, savory ice cream. Declawed the straightforwardly simple pleasures ken versions of Italian classics: orecchi- that greets you. crunchy fried octopus topped with chic-
name translates to anchovy, has made scampi nestled in an oversize spoon are of Italian seafood, Milan is blessed with ette pasta with a tangy marriage of The absolutely beachiest feeling in ory greens and soft ricotta. I was biting
its home on a second-floor space inside poured over with a sauce of five apples, Langosteria, which last year added to shrimp and fava bean cream; meaty this midland city was imported straight into the octopus when Mr. LAbbate
Eatalys teeming emporium of Italian then devoured in a single bite. My its higher-end restaurant and nearby Cantabrico anchovies served on bread from the shores of Puglia, where fish leaned in my direction. It tastes just
delicacies. Inside the restaurant, seren- starting point is Italy, but Im cooking to bistro a third cafe location behind the with whipped butter. A dish should be vendor Bartolo LAbbate and local like being by the sea, he uttered, his
ity reigns, with sloping glass walls that widen your palette, Ms. Varese said. Duomo. The restaurant is pervaded by a easy to read, otherwise its mute, En- friends opened the first location of the eyes wistful, his smile full of pride. And
look down on a piazza below inducing This restaurant is tasting menu terri- sultry, date-friendly light and a crowd of rico Buonocore, the owner, said. seafood sandwich shop Pescaria by the hours from the seaside, I tasted it.
Hotels call in experts for latest perk

In offering such exclusive experi- sessions with top athletes. In addition to
ITINERARIES
ences, hotels are looking to establish golf sessions, the classes include basket-
deeper connections with their ball skills training at the JW Marriott in
customers in the face of growing compe- Miami. Mr. Wade, who has just joined
Faithful customers offered tition from start-ups. So far, home rental the Cleveland Cavaliers, will conduct
services like Airbnb claim 12 percent of hands-on skills and drills on the hotels
the chance to use points the traveler accommodations market, indoor basketball court next summer as
for one-of-a-kind classes according to a report this year by the part of a two-night package at the hotel.
market research firm Mintel Research. The big-wave surfer Laird Hamilton
BY ELIZABETH OLSON But that share is expected to grow, espe- will teach a master surfing lesson on a
cially among travelers who are 40 and standing wave machine at the Sawgrass
With competitors like Airbnb nipping at younger, and that has prompted hotel Marriott Golf Resort & Spa in Florida
their heels, hotels are rolling out experi- brands to rework their rewards pro- next spring. It will also be part of a two-
ences to their most faithful customers grams to cement loyalty with their fre- night stay. At the end of the month, there
that go far beyond extra nights and quent customers. will be a workshop with Ralph Lee Hop-
room upgrades. Hotels have started to feel the pinch kins, a National Geographic photogra-
Want to improve your cooking skills? from encroachment, said Gina Cavato, pher, at the Gramercy Hotel in Manhat-
How about a class with a Michelin- an analyst for lifestyles and leisure at tan. Marriott is also offering a tutorial on
starred chef? Or snorkeling in Hawaii Mintel. They are trying to boost loyalty underwater conservation taught by Mr.
with Jean-Michel Cousteau? Or basket- programs by offering unique rewards Cousteau, at the Ritz-Carlton in Ka-
ball tips from the N.B.A. standout options. palua, Hawaii.
Dwyane Wade? Marriott is trying to differentiate it- Participants must bid for the classes
Marriott, with 30 hotel brands, includ- self by focusing on self-improvement ac- with rewards points. Some of the most
ing Starwood and Ritz-Carlton, and tivities, in part because its own research coveted packages are well beyond
other hotel companies are marshaling suggests this is how people will increas- 300,000 points which equal a lot of ho-
their clout to attract sports stars, includ- ingly spend their money when trav- tel stays.
ing professional surfers, and even a Na- eling. According to Marriotts consumer But Marriott is not just counting on
tional Geographic photographer to cre- research, younger travelers are willing well-known or celebrity experts. The
ate one-of-a-kind enticements. to spend twice as much or nearly $300 chain also recently took a stake in
Dan and Ginger Roberts, of El Dorado a month on self-improvement, includ- PlacePass, which provides bookings for
Hills, Calif., were drawn to Marriotts of- ing bettering their sports or cooking a variety of activities, like a private tour
fer of a two-day clinic at the Old Green- skills. of the filming locations of Downton Ab-
wood Golf Course in Lake Tahoe with Such experiences not only increased bey or a camel safari on Dubais red
Annika Sorenstam, a member of the
World Golf Hall of Fame. They used ac-
cumulated points from their travels and
travelers self-worth and satisfaction,
the research found, but travelers sought
to share the interactions with experts on
dunes. Those are not necessarily con-
nected to staying at a Marriott or one its
properties.
18 -22 Oct. 2017
joined a small group of rewards mem- their social channels. Other hotel brands are also changing Collectors Preview on Oct. 17 by invitation only
bers in late July to see Ms. Sorenstam in Were taking the best of Marriotts their enticements. Hyatt, for instance, is
action. They were also hoping to get loyalty programs including our part- offering for the first time an opportunity
some tips on how to improve their golf nerships and extraordinary portfolio of for its World of Hyatt loyalty members
games.
Im an avid golfer, said Mr. Roberts,
hotels and stepping it up with master
classes that provide transformative ex-
to participate in an excursion in Novem-
ber to Tokyo. The trip will include 9 av. Hoche, Paris 8e
a retired information technology execu- periences travelers cannot get any- lessons from experts at the Mori Art
tive. Ive loved golf since I was a child where else, said David Flueck, Marriott Museum about Japans pop culture; the
and played since I was a teenager, and I Internationals senior vice president for Shinto religion; the progress made in 313 Art Project J: Gallery SinArts Gallery
dream of being a great golfer. global loyalty. cleaning up the devastating Fukushima A Thousand Kukje Gallery Gallery SoSo
He added that he was struggling with The master classes, he said, allow the earthquake; and sake.
his drive, and that this was a chance to 100 million members of Marriott Re- Hilton Worldwide last year intro- Plateaus Art Space Galerie Liusa Wang GALLERY SU:
get one-on-one guidance from someone wards and the Starwood rewards produced a Behind the Wheel program A3 Magda Danysz Gallery Tang Contemporary Art
at Annikas level. gram, SPG, to redeem their points for that allows car-loving guests to drive a AIKE DELLARCO Galerie Maria Lund The Columns Gallery
Lamborghini with an accompanying
instructor at its Waldorf Astoria ho- ArtLoft/ Galerie NOEJ The Drawing Room
tels properties. Lee-Bauwens-Gallery ON/gallery Vanguard Gallery
The Waldorf Astoria brand is also BANK
working with the James Beard Founda-
Pierre-Yves Car Gallery VNH
tion to allow participating guests to Gallery Baton Primo Marella Gallery Yavuz Gallery
have culinary adventures, including a Chi-Wen Gallery & Primae Noctis Gallery ZETO ART
chef-led tour of the Mahane Yehuda
Market for guests at the Waldorf Astoria
CHOI&LAGER Gallery Richard Koh Fine Art
Jerusalem and a date-themed cooking Fabien Fryns Fine Art Galerie RX
class at its Ras Al Khaimah property in ifa gallery Galerie Sator www.asianowparis.com
the United Arab Emirates.
The large hotel brands are mindful
that right over their shoulder, Airbnb, in
particular, is reinventing what travelers
expect from a local stay by introducing
smaller-scale experiences and classes,
which people can bid on through its site
even if they are not staying in an Airbnb
rental.
One in Paris, for example, offers to
DANIEL BRENNER FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES teach patrons how to sculpt a head from
Kirsten Dobroth, behind the camera, joined a session with a National Geographic pho- clay, taught by an artist who studied at
tographer, Jad Davenport, at the Ritz-Carlton in Avon, Colo., in September. the Louvre museum.
..
Masters A collaboration with Jeff Koons

International New York Times October 12 2017 PDF

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