Author notes: Yarn guide worsted weight

Please be advised that for this pattern, basic knowledge of For lion
crochet is a must. You will need to know the following terms: Red Heart Super Saver in Cafe Latte
Red Heart Super Saver in Cormeal
Magic ring (MR)
Front loops only (FLO) For bear
single crochet (sc) Red Heart Super Saver in Cafe Latte
single crochet 3-increase (3sc) Vanna's Choice in Honey Brown
> put 3 single crochets into one st
invisible single crochet 3-decrease (3dec) For red panda
> put hook in the next 3 sts front loops only, Vanna's Choice in Terra Cotta.
pull yarn through those three loops, yarn over and pull Lily 'n Sugar Cotton in Chocolate Brown
through. Simply put, it's like making an invisible single
crochet decrease, except that you use up three sts. Notions and other materials
Surface single crochet (surface sc) Sheets of craft felt in Taupe
> http://www.crochetspot.com/how-to- Yarn or darning needle
crochet-surface-crochet-or-surface-slip-stitch/ Embroidery needle
Scissors
For this pattern, everything is worked in a continuous spiral, Polyester fiberfill for stuffing
meaning no joining of rounds unless otherwise noted. For the Erasable fabric pen (buy from Daiso)
body parts, it's up to you whether you want to go continuous 9mm black rounded safety eyes
spiral or not. But for the cube, it's strictly a must to work in Red brown or chocolate brown embroidery thread
a spiral fashion with only crocheting on the FRONT LOOPS. Fabric glue/super glue, toothpick (as applicator)
Not following this will result in your work being wonky and Stitch markers (yarn scraps also work)
misaligned, which is the least desired result.

All parenthesized numbers denote the total number of

stitches per round.

Preferably, use a long scrap of yarn as a stitch marker to

mark the beginning of the rounds. Yarn scrap is easier to
carry over than plastic stitch markers, making it easier to
manage your work.
 GUIDELINES for working and shaping the cube amigurumi

CUBE BASE
PATTERN 1. Prior to stuffing, pinch the corners and edges to form
the cube. That will give a good idea on how much
stuffing is need.
STRICTLY FRONT LOOPS ONLY THROUGHOUT FOR CUBE BASE
2. Good rule of thumb to achieve that angular sides is to
PATTERN.
3sc on corners meaning that in every round you've
Any color, 3.5mm hook
increased, you should be having a constant 12 sts
worth of corner increase (3sc + 4 sides = 12 sts).
RND 1: sc 4 into MR (4)
3. To achieve that cube look, you should not overstuff
RND 2: 3sc four times around (12)
nor understuff the piece. One good technique to
RND 3: sc, (3sc, sc in next 2 sts) three times, 3sc, sc in next st
check is to hold the working cube in your hands in a
(20)
diamond fashion squishing the sides flat, and
RND 4: sc 2, (3sc, sc in next 4 sts) three times, 3sc, sc in next
applying the process for all sides. That way, you can
2 sts (28)
check and see which parts needed more or less
RND 5: sc 3, (3sc, sc in next 6 sts) three times, 3sc, sc in next
stuffing.
3 sts (36)
RND 6: sc 4, (3sc, sc in next 8 sts) three times, 3sc, sc in next 4. On deciding where the critter's face should go, always
4 sts (44) pick the side directly across the side with the stitch
RND 7-15: sc in all 44 sts (44) [9R] markers on. I find that the stitches here appear the
RND 16: sc 4, (3dec, sc in next 8 sts) three times, 3dec, sc in most even (given that you have stuffed it correctly
next 4 sts (36) and your crochet tension has been even throughout).
RND 17: sc 3, (3dec, sc in next 6 sts) three times, 3dec, sc in 5. For my pattern, I decided to build a 2 x 2 inch cube
next 3 sts (28) which is made up of 9 repeated rounds of 44 sts. To
If using safety eyes with a backing, don't forget to attach eyes go larger, you would have to add increasing as well as
at around Round 10-11. repeated rounds; for instance, to build a 2.5 x 2.5
RND 18: sc 2, (3dec, sc in next 4 sts) three times, 3dec, sc in inch cube make increases following the pattern
next 2 sts (20) scheme until you reach 52 stitches, then do 11
RND 19: sc, (3dec, sc2) three times, 3dec, sc in next st (12) repeated rounds.
RND 20: 3sc four times around (4) 6. The repeated rounds (ex. Rnd 7-15) that build up the
body determines how high or low you want your piece
Stuff the piece as you crochet, starting from Rnd 17. to be. You can easily adjust this part to build a prism
Be sure not to stuff in densely. The idea is to fill it up and shape it (3D rectangle) by adding more repeated rounds. Or
into a cube, so corners should definitely be visible. Try to stuff just maybe decrease the number of repeated rounds to
the core, then fill up the sides according to how squishy you want make a shorter rounded square. The sky's the limit.
the cube to be. F/O. Close gap with sewing tail and weave ends.
SHORT POINTED EAR (x2) Chocolate yarn, 3.5mm hook SHORT ROUNDED EAR (x2) Caffe Latte yarn, 3.5mm hook
For red panda For bear

RND 1: sc 4 into MR (4) RND 1: sc 6 into MR (6)

RND 2: inc 4 times (8) RND 2: inc 6 times (12)
RND 3: sc in all 8 sts (8) RND 3-5: sc in all 12 sts (12)
RND 4: (inc, sc) 4 times (12) F/O. Leave a long tail for sewing.
F/O. Leave a long tail for sewing.
DO NOT STUFF the piece. To assemble onto the cube, sew the
DO NOT STUFF the piece. To assemble onto the cube, sew the ears onto the corners of the cube, slanted and angle it in a
ears somewhat slanted and angle it in a way that the ears way that the ears point upward that goes outwards onto
point upward (opposite effect of the pig ears) that goes Rounds 6-7.
outwards onto Rounds 6-7.

MANE brown yarn, 3.5mm hook

For lion
RND 1: Start with one corner of the lion's face - slip knot into
it. ch 1. surface sc around the face, approx 39 sts across. join
to the beg of round. Counting the beg, you should have 40
working surface scs.

RND 2: ch 2, 2dc in the same st, sl st in the same st. (sl st in

the next st, ch 2, 2dc in the same st, sl st in the same st) rep
across every surface sc. You should have 40 clusters by the
end of the round. Join to finish. F/O and weave ends.
Pictures
 assembly
For the face, I usually place use 9mm black safety eyes and affix them between Rounds 10-11 with an interspace of 8 sts.
Embellishments such as the mouth, nose or muzzle will go in between that space.

For embellishments, you can use whatever you have in stock. Personally, I use craft felt for most of the decor, then use
embroidery thread to fill in the intricate details. I generally use satin stitch to fill in the mouth and nose details. For the
more experienced crafters, you can also dabble on needlefelting to give your animals a more eye-popping look. Usually with
needlefelting, it allows you more access to 3D shapes that you can't lend from craft felt. In the end, it still depends on what
your preference is and also your stock materials for embellishing the piece, so be creative!

For the lion, cut two pieces of taupe felt: first should be shaped like a bean, and the second should be a smaller circle. Do a
satin stitch in the center of the bean felt for a nose. Then using the fabric glue, attach the circle felt from underneath the
bean-shaped felt. It should look like a proper muzzle afterwards (see picture for reference). Once done, attach the whole
muzzle piece onto the cube with fabric glue, one round below the eyes.

For the bear, cut a round piece of felt. Embroider a small triangle for nose and two slanted lines that go downwards for the
mouth. Make sure you sew the embellishment on the center of the felt. Afterwards, glue the entire muzzle piece onto the
cube, one round below the eyes.

For the red panda's features, you will be using a total of 5 pieces: one for muzzle, two for the eyes-cheek and two for the
eyebrows. All pieces are oblong/oval shaped, with the eye-cheek being the longest pieces. The eye-cheek should under the
safety eyes and extending from approx. Round 11-13; then the eyerbrows should be glued or stitched in between Round 8-9.
 credits & copyright
This pattern is intended for personal use only. You may NOT sell or redistribute this pattern in any form without my
permission. You may NOT sell the finished product. Please credit Diceberry Designs for this design, Cube Wild Animals. Ill be
happy to see what kind of critters you come up with. Feel free to share photos of your finished product through my e-mail:
diceberry [dot] designs [at] gmail [dot] com, or tag me through Instagram @diceberry. Thank you!

Got any questions about the pattern? Need some help on how to build the cube animals? See any corrections for this pattern?

You can contact me via e-mail at: diceberry [dot] designs [at] gmail [dot] com.

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