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ACARA II
PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY
Basic Concept
How and why ocean currents flow, air-sea interactions such as the
generation of waves by wind.
Oceanography covers
Salinity
Result of weathering of rocks on land carried by rivers to the
ocean
Materials from the earths interior
Hydrothermal vents
Volcanic eruptions
modul praktikum
Pressure
ACARA II
PHYSICAL PARAMETER
Objetives
Location Area :
A. Temperature
Basic Concept
The temperature of the ocean, especially the surface, varies from place to
place and from season to season. Ocean temperature depends on the
amount of solar energy absorbed.
Tropical oceans receive a lot of direct overhead sunlight for much of the
year, so the water is warm. Summer is the only time polar regions receive
sunlight, and even then, it is never directly overhead, so water in these
places tends to be cold. The amount of sunlight that hits the temperate
regions (between the tropics and the poles) varies between summer and
winter. The variation in solar energy absorbed means that the ocean surface
can vary in temperature from a warm 30C in the tropics to a very cold -2C
near the poles.
The temperature of the ocean also varies from top to bottom, giving a
vertical structure to most of the ocean. There is an upper layer of water, up
to 200m deep, that is warmed by the Sun and has the same temperature
from top to bottom. Below that is a layer called the thermocline, reaching
down in places to 1000m, which is colder at the bottom than at the top. The
deep ocean below the thermocline, making up 80% of the ocean, is the
same very cold temperature throughout.
https://www.sciencelearn.org.nz/resources/707-ocean-temperature
Water expands when it warms up heat energy makes its molecules move
around more and take up more space. Because the molecules are more
spread out, the density goes down. When water cools, it contracts and
becomes denser.
Temperature and salinity both affect the density of water, resulting in water
moving up or down through the ocean layers and moving as currents around
the ocean.
Objetives
Students can get to know how to get data temperature in the coastal
Students can explain temperature condition in this area
modul praktikum
Data Analysis
- Create table
- Insert data in table
- Analysis Temperature
Selang Waktu
Suhu
Pengukuran
12.00 31
13.00 30
14.00
Result
Hasil pengukuran dari koordinat () didapatkan perubahan suhu tiap jam.
modul praktikum
B. Current
Basic Concept
The term "current" describes the motion of the ocean.
Ocean currents are driven by wind, water density differences, and tides.
1. The rise and fall of the tides. Tides create a current in the oceans, which
are strongest near the shore, and in bays and estuaries along the coast.
These are called "tidal currents." Tidal currents change in a very regular
pattern and can be predicted for future dates. In some locations, strong tidal
currents can travel at speeds of eight knots or more.
2. Wind. Winds drive currents that are at or near the ocean's surface. Near
coastal areas winds tend to drive currents on a localized scale and can
result in phenomena like coastal upwelling. On a more global scale, in the
open ocean, winds drive currents that circulate water for thousands of miles
throughout the ocean basins.
Currents affect the Earth's climate by driving warm water from the Equator
and cold water from the poles around the Earth. The warm Gulf Stream, for
instance, brings milder winter weather to Bergen, Norway, than to New
York, much further south.
modul praktikum
Current Velocity
Ocean currents are expressed as velocity vectors (often denoted by ),
either by giving a speed and
direction or by giving two
perpendicular components,
for example east-west (u)
and north-south (v) or along-
shore and cross-shore flow.
over time. A perfect water-following drifter (right panel of figure below) would
measure the Lagrangian velocity.
http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/current.html
Objetives
Students can get to know how to get data current on the coastal
Students can explain current velocity condition in this are
Prosedure,
Data Analysis
- Create table
- Insert data in table
- Calculate current velocity
12.15
12.30
Result
Hasil pengukuran dari koordinat () didapatkan kecepatan arus 0,195
m/detik.
modul praktikum
C. Water Transparency
Basic Concept
Transparency of water relates to the depth that light will penetrate water.
The transmission of light into a body of water is extremely important since
the sun is the primary source of energy for all biological phenomena. Light
is necessary for photosynthesis, a process that produces oxygen and food
for consumers. It is common practice for biologists to consider the depth of
the euphotic zone (the upper layers of a body of water into which sufficient
light penetrates to permit growth of green plants) to be 2.7 times (roughly 3
times) the limit of visibility. As light penetrates water, it becomes attenuated
and altered in its spectral composition. The change that occurs is from
predominantly yellow light at the surface to blue-green at depth in clear
water or yellow-green in waters having a high concentration of dissolved
organic material.
Transparency readings in oligotrophic or low nutrient lakes are often greater
than 15 feet (5 meters) whereas eutrophic or nutrient rich lakes have
readings less than 7.5 feet (2.5 meters). Water clarity is related to amounts
of suspended particles (turbidity) as well as amounts of phytoplankton and
zooplankton.
https://www.gvsu.edu/wri/education/instructors-manual-water-
transparency-8.htm
Water transparency, Corresponding to the intuitive idea of transparency, we
can relate it as a measure of the depth of light penetration into the water.
Water transparency depends on the amount of particles in the water.
Particles can be inorganic (e.g. sediment from erosion) or organic (such as
algae, phytoplankton). During the light propagation in the water, the light
attenuates due to absorption and dispersion of these particles until
completely disappearing. The extinction depth depends on optical
phenomena such as absorption or scattering of light caused by the
modul praktikum
Prosedure,
Data Analysis
- Create table
- Insert data in table
- Calculate velocity water transparancy
Selang Waktu
D1 (cm) D2 (cm)
Pengukuran/ jam =
12.00 355 303 329
13.00
14.00
Result
Hasil pengukuran dari koordinat () didapatkan tingkat kecerahan 329
pada pukul 12.00 dan 321,5 pada pukul 15.00 yang menandakan intensitas
matahari setiap perubahan jam semakin besar.
modul praktikum
D. Waves
Basic Consept
Waves are created by energy passing through water, causing it to move in
a circular motion.
The ocean is never still. Whether observing from the beach or a boat, we
expect to see waves on the horizon. Waves are created by energy passing
through water, causing it to move in a circular motion. However, water does
not actually travel in waves. Waves transmit energy, not water, across the
ocean and if not obstructed by anything, they have the potential to travel
across an entire ocean basin.
Waves are most commonly caused by wind. Wind-driven waves,
or surface waves, are created by the friction between wind and surface
water. As wind blows across the surface of the ocean or a lake, the continual
disturbance creates a wave crest. These types of waves are found globally
across the open ocean and along the coast.
More potentially hazardous waves can be caused by severe weather, like a
hurricane. The strong winds and pressure from this type of severe storm
causes storm surge, a series of long waves that are created far from shore
in deeper water and intensify as they move closer to land. Other hazardous
waves can be caused by underwater disturbances that displace large
amounts of water quickly such as earthquakes, landslides, or volcanic
eruptions. These very long waves are called tsunamis. Storm surge and
tsunamis are not the types of waves you imagine crashing down on the
shore. These waves roll upon the shore like a massive sea level rise and
can reach far distances inland.
The gravitational pull of the sun and moon on the earth also causes waves.
These waves are tides or, in other words, tidal waves. It is a common
misconception that a tidal wave is also a tsunami. The cause of tsunamis
are not related to tide information at all but can occur in any tidal state.
http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/wavesinocean.html
modul praktikum
Wave Characteristics
Characteristics that all waves have in common are wavelength, amplitude
and frequency. Apart from these properties, different types of waves have a
number of varying characteristics. A wave is defined as a repetitive
disturb ance traveling through a medium going from one location to another.
Objetives
Students can get to know how to get data wave on the coastal
Students can explain and to compute wave characteristic
modul praktikum
Palm Ukur
Stopwatch
Prosedure
Data Analysis
- Create table
- Insert data in table
- Calculate velocity wave
modul praktikum
Puncak Lembah
Nomor Selisih = puncak - lembah
(cm) (cm)
I 115 107 8
II 122 105 17
Pengukuran
Periode Rata Rata =
Ke..
I 6
7 7,3
II
III 10
Result
Hasil pengukuran dari koordinat () didapatkan Tinggi Gelombang Rata
rata 15 cm dengan periode 7,3.
modul praktikum
E. TIDES
The word 'tides' is a generic term used to define the alternating rise and fall
in sea level with respect to the land, produced by the gravitational attraction
of the moon and the sun. ( Our Restless Tides). Tides contribute greatly to
variability in velocity, density and pressure (or sea level). This is particularly
true for sea level, which is largely tidal.
In some regions, the currents associated with internal tides may be much
stronger than the currents associated with the surface, or barotropic, tide.
The internal tidal currents may not be in phase with the barotropic tidal
currents. Because of this it may not always be true that surface currents are
flowing toward shore during rising, or flood tides, and conversely surface
currents may not always be flowing out towards deeper water during falling,
or ebb, tides.
Tidal currents contribute to mixing, in some cases dominating it, and thus
influence distribution of water properties including sound speed. The
variations in depth in coastal areas can result in variations in tidal mixing
modul praktikum
Various other parameters of the moon's orbit around the earth and the
earth's orbit around the sun give rise to other tidal frequencies, or
constituents, and add complexity to the tidal signal. The amplitude of the
equilibrium tide for each tidal constituent is known for any point on the earth.
To predict the actual tidal variations in sea level at any location, the
amplitude and phase, also known as the tidal constants, for the tidal
constituents, or components, must be known. These can be determined
from a long (best if greater than 1 year) time series of measured sea level,
or alternatively from a numerical model.
1. Overtides: these have periods shorter than 9 hours and are caused
by nonlinear interactions of the other tidal constituents and
bathymetry. They are most common in estuaries and very shallow
water. Their symbols have subscripts like 4 or 6, meaning there are
approximately 4 or 6 cycles per day.
2. Semidiurnal: these have periods close to 12 hours, and their symbols
have the subscript 2, for 2 cycles per day.
3. Diurnal: these have periods close to 24 hours, and their symbols
have the subscript 1.
4. Low frequency: these have periods of days to years. There is no
special pattern to their symbols.
The character of the tidal sea level variations at any given location is
determined by the relative amplitudes (sizes) and phases (timing) of these
different constituents. This is illustrated in the figure below and at the
following web site: http://www.ams.org/featurecolumn/archive/tideslll3.html
Objetives
Students can get to know how to get data tides on the coast
Students can explain and to compute wave characteristic
Prosedure
Data Analysis
- Create table
- Insert data in table
- Calculate tide velocity/hour
14.00
15.00 80 10
Result
Hasil pengukuran dari koordinat () didapatkan kecepatan pasang surut
adalah 10 cm/4 jam.