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ARTISTIC

Ca<die$' Sailor Sy5tem

Jv-

Copyrighted 1898

iimnNnnftahnnR?fflnitflnRn
 V*7

156
TO TAKE MEASURE. FOR A TEST MEASURE.
BUST. Stand behind the lady this measure is Take the measure from the centre of the back
taken over the most prominent point of the bust and (beginning 5 inches down from dot 2) to the arm-
-well up over the shoulder blades in the back take hole (or where the arm-hole should come).
this measure easy, "not tight," just so that the tape Measure the front in the same manner beginning
line will be smooth
put this measure down 1 inch
5 inches down from dot 2.
more than the tape line calls for " do not forget IMPORTANT. The measure should be taken
this."
WAIST. Take this measure around the smallest
exactly as the instructions call for do not deviate
to please any one. Should the arm's eye be larger
part of waist tight.
than the neck then use the neck measure in its place
FRONT. From collar bone to waist line in front
in making your draftings. The bust, waist and neck
add i inch to this measure.

measures are taken in even inches for instance,
BACK. From joint in neck to waist line.
should the waist measure be nearest 23, put down 23,
UNDER ARM. Take this measure well up un-
should it be nearest 22 put it down 22 take the
der the arm and down to the waist line put this bust and neck measures in the same manner.
measure down " y? inch less " than the tape line calls
See that the lady stands natural and on both feet.
for.
Ask if she has the same clothing on that she intends
SHOULDER. Place the end of the tape line
to wear, the dress over, and especially inquire about
against the neck snug where the collar joins the dress
the corset. To have a perfect fit you must have a
and measure to the point of the shoulder.
perfect measure.

NECK. Around the bare neck easy.

ARM'S EYE. Around the arm very snUg just
If you have any doubt about the measure take it
Do not use a
below the point of the shoulder. over again before the lady leaves.
ARM MEASURE, cord or belt in taking the measure (except for chil-
i st. From point of shoulder to point of elbow the dren) as it will make your basque short-waisted in
back and front. For a very full bust the front
hand resting on the chest.
2d. From point of elbow to ioint on wrist. measure should be taken from x% to 2 inches longer
3d. Around the largest part of the arm below the than the tape line cans ior.

shoulder with the arm bent take measure this For high shoulders dot 10 in the back should be

smooth not too tight. from 3 to 3^ inches up from dot 9, and dot 21
4th. Around the largest part of the arm below the in the front should be but \% to 1^3 inches above
elbowtake measure
this the same manner.
in dot 20.
5th. Around the hand tight. In drafting for a large waist measure where the
SKIRT. From waist the length desired.
line darts are 1% inches or less, it is well to add Yz inch
HIPS. Around the hips "easy" inches below 6 to each dart and make a new dot 7 one inch outside
the waist line. of dot 7 and draft a new line E.

TO LOCATE THE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER.

Be very careful in taking the back and under arm measure. For a regular form a 16 inch back would
require an 8 inch under arm. Should the under arm measure 9 inches it would indicate a high shoulder
and dot | should be only 3 inches from dot 9- Should the under arm measure be but 7 inches for
a 16 inch back it would indicate a low shoulder and dot | should be 5 inches from dot 9> This
propoition will apply to other measures for instance, if
the back measure is 17, then the under arm
measure should be 9 inches.
IMPORTANT. Never draft the shoulder shorter than one-half inch less than the proportionate
houlder measure, no matter what the measure is.
 CENTER BACK.
Draft lines A
and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth.
Place dot 2 on line A an d from line 3 the distance given in
the table under dot 2 according to size of neck.
Dot 2 /8 % n % 5/8

Neck Size 7 8 9 IO n 2 [l3 14 is 16 17 18

Dot 3 % n i i$A ij3 2 |2JHJ

Place dot 3 on line B the distance given in neck table under

dot 3.
Place point of curve on dot 2 and draft line Q to dot 3-
Place dot 4 on line \ the length of back measure below dot
2- Draft line p straight out from dot 4- Place
dot 5 onc inch from dot 4 on line D,
Place dot 6 the distance from dot 5 that the table gives for
the width of center back,
Draft line beginning 4 inches below line g, and drafting
through dot 5 extending V^ inches below, Place dot "J-o
inches straight clown from dot 5- Place dot 8 A inch toward
X

line 4 from dot ~] Draft line p from dot 8 to the end of lne
.

|. A
Place dot 9 ^> l inches from dot 3 on h re Bi
Place clot I

4 inches straight down from dot 9-
Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot | and draft
line H the proportionate length of shoulder. See table. With-
out moving the curve, place dot the actual le igth of shoulder
| J

on line \{ Place d >t J 2

2 inch.s straight down from the

end ot the line Jfl Place the point of curve on dot || and
draft line J to dot | 2 Place letter \f on dot 12 and draft
line K to dot g. Draft line Q straight down from dot g.
When the linings are tulled they must be cut Y> inch
longer than the measure. For high or low shoulders
change the position of dot jQ up or down. For \%ry high
shoulders dot \ should be only 2j4 to S inches from !ot 9- r

SIDE BODY.
Place long arm of square on line A in the back, drafting the
short arm resting on dot 12 and draft line N straight cut from
dot 1 2- Place dot 2 on line ^ 2% inches from dot 12
Place dot 3 on nne D 2lA inches from dot g. Place letter
V on dot 2
and draft line A to dot 3 extending ]/
2 inch elow 1

dot 3- Place dot 4 on line D the distance from dot 3

given in the table for width of side body. Place dot 5~M inch
from dot 2 on l :ne H Place letter jf| on dot 4 and draft line
g to dot 5- Piace dot g on line >4 in-ehes from dot 5- 1

Draft line JJ from cl >t 2 to dx 6 Wlt h the p .int of curve.

Place dot 7 on ii ne D V^ incn 0,lt from d it 4 Measure 5
inches stra.ght down from dot 7 inrl place dot 3- PI <-ca letter
-

A on dot 4 and dratt line to dot 8- Place dot 9 on l'n D

one inch in from dot 3- Measure 5 inches straight down from
dot 9 and place dot 0- Draft line p from the end of ne
j
1

Bust
A to dot 0- I

Waist UNDER ARiVl

Place dot 2 otl ii ne D 3 inches from dot 4 (i n the side
SHAPE.
Front
Back body.) Place dot 3 the width of under arm shape (as given
Under Arm - in the table) out from dot 2- Place the corner of the square
Shoulder, on dot 2 the short arm even with line |) an measure straight I

Neck up the distance between dots 4 and g in the side b idy .ind
Aim's Eye - place dot 4 P ace do: 5 % inch s r light out from do 4 -

To Locate Dot 12.
ARM'S EYE MEASURE.
Place dot g straight oat from dot 4 the width ot un ler arm
shape. Place the corner of square o 1 dot 3 L he edge on dot
g and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm m -as ire
and place d )t ~] . Place letter Q 0:1 dot 5 and draft line fr to
dot 2- Plaoe letter j]y| on d >t "J and dra t line !| to dot 3
Draft l ne C from dot 5 to dot "J with the poi it of tie curve.
:

8, 9 and 10 ^ inches-
1 Pla:e dot 8 on nne D 1^ inches in from dot 2 Place dot 9~
11 " 12 2 5 inches straight down from dot 8- P'ac letter ^ 01 dot 2

13 " M and draft line to dot 9- Place dot on li 10 g V inch out

|

15 " 16 from dot 3- Place dot | |

5 inches straigh djwn from dot

,
7
" t3 234 " I
Place letter A :1 dot 3 and draft line p to dot 1 1.
 FROftlT.
Draft line A
y inches from the edge of cloth
1
Draft
line B
one inch from the end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line A
and from line B
the distance given in the table for front neck
under dot 2 according to size of neck.

_Dot^2 2
2^p^|2^|
I I 3 \3)i\3H[3H} 4 HY^yiWA
Nee <. S'^e, /
1 J H J
5 16

Dot 3, 2 2 'A 2X 2^ 2'M 2%\ 2^ 2% 3 A 3% 3H

l

PI icedot 3 on line
table under dot 3.
B
the distance given in the front neck
Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C
to clot 3. Place clot 4- online
the arm's eye measure below line B.
6 inches more than Aof y
Place dot 54 inches
above d t 4. Place the comer of square on dot 5 and draft
line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5. Place
clot 6 at the front bust size on line from dot 5. "See table"
P.acedot 7 the lengfh uf under arm measure straight down
D
from dot 6.
dot 6.
Place letter A
on dot 7 and draft line to E
Place dot 8 the length of front measure on line A
below dot 2. Place letter H on dot
druft line to 8 and F
dot 7. Place dot 9 on line K 2 inches below dot 6. Place
the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 9 and draft line
G out 5 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4. Place dot 10
en line V 1 y
inches from dot 8. Place dot 11 the width of
the first dart from dot 10 -'See table for distance," Place
dot 12% inch from II. Place dot 13^ inch more than the
5V -"SX
w clth of the first dart from dot 12. Place dot 1 4 on line G
and from dot 4
>4 inch mo.e than the distance between dot 8
and the center of the first dart. Place dot 15 on line and G
from dot 4 X
inch more than the distance between dot 8 and
the center of secoud dart. Place the 2 mark on dot |0
and draft line f| to dot [4.
y
Draft line | J and K in like
manner. Draft line I straight down from dot \Q. Place
d t |6~ 6 inches straight clown from the center of the first dart
Draft line Rjj from dot || to dot |g. Draft line N straight
clown from dot | 2 Place dot "]- -6 inches straight
down|

from the center of second dart. Draft line f>om dot | 3 to

dot I 7. Place dot 18 l3 A
inches straight out from dot ~]
Place dot 95 inches straight down from dot 8.
j Place |

letter fl on dot 7 and draft line

p to dot | 9. Place dot 20
on g 6V2 inches from dot 3 Piace dot 2 I finches straight
.

To Locate Dot 10 From Dot 8. down from dot 20- Place letter fl on dot 3 the edge of the
curve on dot 21 and draft line Q the pioportionate length ot
WAtST MEASURE, the shoulder. "See table." Without moving the curve place
18 tO 20 1 inch dot 22 'A inch less than the actual length of shoulder on line
Q. Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q
2 tO 23
I
Hi Place dot 23 on line R \y2 inches above line Q.
to D
24 to 27 Place dot
2
7 &
28 24 one inch straight in from dot 23. Place letter Q on dot
29 & 30 2 24 and draft line $ to dot 6- Place letter K on dot 24 and
1 & 32 21/ extend line 5 to dot 22-
3
Above 32 inches the same preportion.
The Front can be curved if desired. Place a new dot 2
To place clot 12 from dot 11.
y2 inch inside of dot 2 Place letter on new dot 2 and
WAIST MEASURE. draft a curved line J to meet line fl y. inches be low dot 4. 1

Place letter || on the end of line J edge of curvi on dot

and 21
8
19, 20, yz inch. and continue line J about 3 inches below the waist line. See
22, 23 and 24
26 and 27


24 inch.
inch.
dotted lines."
25, 1

28, 29 and 30 1)4 inch.

Important The front shoulder is cut % inch shorter than
above 30 inches in same preportion, the back andmust be stretched to meet the back s loulder.

COPYRIGHT 1898.
BDS^ 48 BUST 49

Waisfc 26 27 28 2y iO 51 i32 33 34 35 [36 37 38 3y Waist 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 58 3y

Bust No. H
n H n
121 121 .121 12* 12J12J 12
n
,2 HI 111 11?
M
in
n H H
m Bust No. 123 12f 123 121 121 121 121 12* 12* 12 12 12
n
Darts 2* 2 2n If i* Darts 2| n n2* 2* 2 n ^
If l 3 13
-*-8
8
Center Back i l i* 14 u n H n li Hif 2 2* n 0. B. 1 1 n n n n H H
If 2 2 2*
Side Body 2 n H
'

2| 2 n 2| 2f 3 3* .31 3i 3? 4 S. B. 2* 2* 2? n n H
3* 3* 31 31 31 3f
Under Arm H H H 3i 3| 31 31 4 4 4* 4* 4* 4i
*2 H U. A. 31 31 3| 4 4 4 H
4* 4* 4-i 4i *1
BUST 50 BUST 51 BUST 52

Waist 32 33 54 35 36 37 38 3y 40 Waist id 34 35 36 37 [458 3y 40 Waist 35 136 37 38 39 40 |4i

|

Bust No. 13 13 13 123 123 123 12J L2i 12* B. No. 1313 123 12f 121 12i 12* 12*! B. No. 13*131 13 13 123 121121
Darts H 2 21
If 1? l-i H UM Darts. 2* 2} 2 If H
If 1* 1* Darts 2i2* 2 If 1* 1* 1*
Center Back H 1* i* If H H n If 2 C. B. 1* li H H
1* If if 2 C. B. 2 2 2 2 2* 2* 2*
Side Body- n 2| 3 3 3* 3* 31 3f 4 S. B. 3 3* 3* 3* 3* 3i 31 3f S.B 3* 3* 3* 3* 3* 3* 3+
Under Arm H i 31 4 4 4 4* 4* 41
*2 U. A. 4 4 4* 4* 4| 4| U.A.H n 4* 4* 4* *i H 41 5

CHILDREN'S MEASURES.-One Dart Only.

BUST 21 22 23 24

Waist w 20 21 Waist 19 20 21 22 23 20 21
1 22 23 24
Burt No.
Front Waist
5
41
5 5 I
Bust No. 5* Bust No.
5
C3
H 512 5* 5|l Bust No.
51 < 51 51 51 51

Center Back
5
1 1
j
Front Wait
[Center Back
4| 5J 4 b'ront Waist 4| 5* 5f H
Front Waist 5* C* 6i 6
1 1 1 1 Center Back 1 1 1 I 1 Center Back 1 1 1*
Side Body-
Under Arm
2 2 2 I
Side Body
Under Arm
1 1! 2 Side Body 13 If 2 2 2 Side Body If n ]f 2
2 2 2 i
2 2* 2* Under Arm 2 2 2 Z 4 2* Under Arm
9 1
2 2

BUST 25 2G 27

Waist 21 22 23 24 25 1 Waist 21 22 23 24 25 2ti Waist 21 22 25 24 2d 26 27

Bust No. 6* c* 6* 6 6 Bust No. 61 61 61 61 6', 6* Bu't No. 6? 61 6f 6\ 63
i

Dt 6f 6f
Front Waist 5i 6 6i 1J Et. 1.
6i
Center Back 1
64 6f Front Waist H 6 6* 6i 7 7 j
Front Waist 6| 6i 7 7* 7% 7?

Side Body 2
1
2
1*
2
1* 1*
2 2
Center Back
SideBody
1 1
2
1*
2 2 2
H n If Center Back
Side Body
1 1 1 1
2
1* 1* 1*
2
2 2 2* 2*
!

2^ 2 2
Under Arm 2 2 2 2* 2* Under Arm 2 2 2 2* 2* 2* '
Under Arm 2 2 2 2 2 2*
BUST 28 2y

Waist 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 2d Waist 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29
Waist No.
Bust No.
n n 7* 7* Bust No. n. 712 71n' 7* 71
'2 7* 7* 7* n
Darts
7*
2*
7* 7* 7*
11 1* 3
Waist No.
Darts
7*
21
n 2n
7f 71 7* '1 8
1 1
n
4 2*
Center Back 1 1 1 1 1* 1*! 1* Center Back 1 1 1 1 1 1 1* 1* 1* 1*
Side Body 2 2 2 2 2* 2*1 21 SideBody 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2* 2*
Under Arm 2 2 2 2 2 2* 2* 1

Under Arm 2* 2* 2* 2* 2* 2* 21 2i 2* 2*
BUST 30 31

Waist 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 J8 !
Waist iy 20 AL 22 23 21 25 -0 27 28
Bust No.
Waist No.
H 7* 7i 71 71 71 n 7f 7A Bust No. 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8
7* 7* 7f 7f 7f 7f 7f 8* 7f Waist No. 6? 6f 7* 7f 7f 7f 8* 8*
81 n
Darts H 2* 2* If 1, 1* 1 1 Darts 2 f 2* 2* if If If 1* 1* 1 u
Center Back
Side Body
1 1 1 I 1 '* 1* H 1* Center Back- 1 1 1 1 1 1* 1* li H H
Under Arm
2 2 2 2 2 2* 2* 24 H side Body 2 2 2 2 2 2* 2* 2* 21 n
n J2 i 2J n 2-1 n 2^ 2f Under Arm H n 21 2f 21 ail 21 21 21 2f
BUST 31 BUST 32 BUST 33

AY aisC 18 i9 120 21 22 23 24 W. L9 20 21 22 23 24 25 VV. 10 20 _1 22 23 24 25 20 27

Bu-t No. 71 7f 7| n 74 74 7| B. No. 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 B No. 81 Si 81 8* 8i 81 8? 81 81
Darts 2 2 1^
8 u n 1 3 D. 11 H2 1 8? 131 n 1 3 D. 2 11 11 1* 1 ft 1 U U
Center Back 3
4 1 1 i i 1
1
4 C. B. 3
4 4 1 l H n 11
^4 C. B. 3
4
3
4 1 1 1 U H l,
1

n
Side Body 21 2i 21
2i 21 21 21 S B. 2- 2 2 n 212: n S.B. 2 2 21 21 21 ** 2-] 2| 21
Under Arm 91 Oil
*2
01
-
J
i' n 21 21 21 U. A. 21 24 2i 2}| 2i 24 21 U. A. 2J 24 2 l
a* H n 2{ 21 21

BUST 31 BUST 35

Waist 10 20 23 24 25 26 27 Waist
21 22 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 2G 27 28
f

Bust No Ff! 8181 81 81 81 81 81 Bust No. 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 81 81 81

Darts 2 1 Si
X 8 1? Is 1 9
3
4 Darts U
2! 21 2 11 If 1? i; U w *
Center Back 3
4 1 1 1 11 11 11 11 Center Back 3
4 1 M 1 1
O]
11 11 U 11 11 U
Side Body 2 2 2 21 21 2J 24 21 21 Side Body 2 21 21 ^4 21 21 2* 24 21 3
Under Arm 21 21 Z 4 21 V, 2J 24 24 21 Under Arm 21 21 2| 21 2* 24 24 3 3 3

BUST 36 BUST 37

Waibt 19 20 21 22 23 ,24 25 26 27 28 20 30 W. 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 ,27 28 29 30 31 32

Bust No. 91 91 91 91 91! 91 9 9 9 81 81 81 B. No. 91 91 91 91 91 91 91 91 91
!

91 9 9 9 9
Darts 21 2 n
2 n\ n H 11 11 1 1 ft
D 21 21 2* 21 n 2 11 II
1

u 11 1 n 1 ft

Center Back 1 1 1 1* 11 11 H 11 11 11 11 11 C. B. 3
4 1 1 1
21
1 11 H 11'
2,
11
2 U11 11 2 2
Side Body 2 21 2 21 21 21 24 24 '21 21 3 31 S. B. 11 2 2 2.'
21 24 3 ! 3 .3 3 31 31 34
Under Arm 24 24 24 24 24! 2| 21 3 3 31 31 31 U. A. 24 24 21 21 3 3 3 3 |
3 3 31 31 34 H
BUST 38 BUST 39

Waist 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
!
w. 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 ,30 31 32
Bust No. 10 10 10 10 10 10 91 91 94 91 9 9 9 9 B. No. 101 101 101 101 101 101 -01 10 10 91 91 94
Darts 24 24 21 n 2 1! n 14 1? u
11 1 1 1 D. -
2i 2 H 2 l'i H
11 14 l-S 1 1 7
5 H
Center Back 1
Ride Body
1 1 11 11 11 14 14 14 n
11 11 2
31 31 31
21 C B. 3 1
4 1 1 11 li il 14 11 1 15
'4
H
11 21 21 21 24 24 21 21 3 3 31 S. B. 21 21 21 2* 24 24 24 2ii 2|j 3 3
U^der Arm 24 24 24 24 24 24 3 3 31 31
4 31 34 31 H U. A. 24 2' 24 21 24 21 21 3 3 3 4 'i | |

BUST 40 BUST 41

Waist 22 23 24 125 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 Waist 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34

Bust No. 101 101 101101 10 10 10 91 91 91 91 91 Bust. No. 101 101 101 101 10 10 10 91 9-; 91 91 91 94
Darts 21 21 21' 2 li i! 11 H 14 1 1 1 Darts 21 21 21 21 21 2 If 1--4 11 11 11 1 1
Center Back 1 1 11' 11 11 11 U- H 11 H If 2 Center Back 1 1 11 11 11 11 11 u ij 1? 11 1?
J
4 If
Side Body 2 2 21| 23 24 2| 21 21 3 3 31 34 Side Body 21 21 21 21 21 3 3 31 3;' 31 34 6 9. 4
Under Arm 23
w4 21' 2f 3 3 n3 31 31 34 31 31 Under Arm 3 O 31 31 34 3 31 31 1
34 3? 4 4 n
BUST 42 BUST 43

Waibt _2 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 134 (Waist 23 24 25 20 -7 .8 29 o0 31 32 66 4

Bust No. 11 11 11 11 101 101 101 101 101 101 101 101 101 leust No. HI Hi HI HI 11 11 11 103 103 103 L0-1 101
Darts 21 2.) 24 21 24 2 11 i! If 14 14 li 1 Darts
;

| 21 24 2.'21 21 2 If 11 14 14 M 1
Center Back 1 iH 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 I4 If 11 Renter Back 1 1 11 11 11 11 11
03
11 H 11 il n
Side Body 2 2 21 21 24 24 24 2f 3 31 34 34 31 Side Body 2 2 21 21 24 -"4 n 3 3 31 31H
Under Arm .24 M 2| :2i 31 3* .34 :31 34 31 31 31 31 Under Arm 3 3 3 3 3i 31 31 34 34 34 H H
BUST 41 BUST 45

Waist 24 j5 26 27 28 -9 30 J

31 32 33 34 35 Waist 24 25 20 27 -8 29 30 31 32 33 34 o5. 36
Bust No. 114 114 114 111 111 Hi HI 11 11 11 101 103 Bust No. !2 12 '2 12 HI HI HI 114 111 114 HI HI HI
Darts 21 24 24 21 2 11 11 14 14 11 11 1 Darts 21 2.
1

24 21 21 2 11 If 14 11 11 1 1
Center Back 1 1 11 11 11 li li 11 11 11 11 11 Center Back 1 1 11 11 11 11 11 14 H 14 14 11 H
Side Body 21
z 4 21 24 24 24 21 24'
1)3
Z4 3 3 31 34 Side Body; 2 2 2 2 21
1

21 21 21 21 21 31 31 H
Under Arm 3 3 3 3 *3i 31
S. 34 31 34 31 31 Under Arm 2| 2
?4
3
3 3 31 31 31 34 34 34 31 3| H
BUST 46 BUST 47

Wai.-.t
j .
^0 27 id 29 30 31 32 33 A 6b 06 37 Waist -6 li/ |_j ,_J 60 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 J8
m in in HI HI
1

Bu No.
t 12 12 12 Ul HI Hf HI 111 111 iH U* HI 11 Bust No. 12 1- 12 HI 111 111 11 11
li H u 11 11
03
Darts ^4 21 2! 21 24 2 2 11 Darts 23 l> 3 1
>I 21 2 If 11 11 11 11 1; 11 H
Cen er Back 1 11 n 11 n 11 1* 14 14 14 11 11 2 C. B.
i 1 '11 11 11 11H 14 1? 14 11 11 11 2
Si le Body 2 21 21 21 24 2| 3 3 31 34 31 31 1 S. B. 21 21 21 21 21 2 n 3 31 8J 31 4 4
Un er A'm 31 31 31 34 31 34 31 3| n 4 4 4 41
*4 U. A. 34 34 34 31 31 n 4 4 4 41 41 41 H

To Match Stripes, Plaids, Figures
and Diagonals. Be careful in drafting
your Cut the back
linings. first.
take the back and match it perfectly
?n the goods, both faces up. Now take
the lining and replace it on the back,
being careful to have it exact, and do
not move the goods. Now take the side
body lining and place line A directly
over line K in the back, being careful to
have the waist lines even. Now pin the
side body lining fast and remove the
back and cut the side body, being very
careful not to move it. The whole
secret is to match the sewing lines. Fol-
low this rule in matching the other
parts.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING AND FIN-
ISHING WAIST.
To arrange the lining for drafting, fold it so that the drafting
willbe made on the wrong side of the lining. Place the lining
on the table with the selvedge towards you.
If the lining is to be put on full then it must be drafted y2
inch longer than the measure calls for.
When your drafting is finished (if the lining is drafted
double) pin it together well before tracing and cutting.
Use a double tracing wheel, this will give an even seam and
be a great assistance in your basting.
Place the lining flat on the table when cutting. Never raise
it with your hand. When cut put a small notch at the waist
line.
Trace the front, waist line, and darts with one wheel, all
other sewing lines with both wheels, making a y?, inch seam,
except on the shoulders and line in the front and line B in
the under arm shape, which should be a one inch seam so as to
give a little ease on those seams if desired.
The neck and arm hole is cut on the marked lines as seams
are allowed in the drafting.
TO CUT THE GOODS.
See that the goods are folded double (unless they are stripes
or plaids. ) (See instructions for matching stripes, plaids and
figures).
Now Lay the goods smooth on the table, selvedge towards you.
Place the lining on the goods. The bottom of the waist lining at
the end of the goods (so as to cut saving), unless the nap or
figure runs the other way, which of course must be the first
consideration. It is best to place all of the forms in position
first and see that the waist lines run even with the thread of
the goods, then pin carefully before cutting.
BASTING.
Be very careful in basting. No matter how perfect your
draftings are the waist can be ruined by improper basting. Do
not draw the basting thread too tight, it will draw the goods
out of position. Before removing the basting threads clip
them every few inches, otherwise they are apt to pull or break
the thread of the goods.
BACK.
Place the goods on the table face down. Now place the lin-
ing on the goods right side up, then pin at the waist line and
arrange the lining above the waist line with a little ease pinning
the lining to the material. Baste the waist line first, then
baste the other lines in the tracing up and down from the
waist line with a stitch from % to J2 inch long. Do not put
your hand under or raise up to baste. Follow the same instruc-
tions in basting the side body and under arm shape.
FRONT.
Place the lining on the goods. See that the front edge of
the lining and goods meet. Pin the lining on a little easy,
getting it all in place, then baste across the waist line, then
line A- Now pin and baste the darts, which should be done
very carefully, beginning at the top or point and basting down,
using a \ inch stitch. Now baste line E, starting from the
waist line up. Baste shoulder next, then around the neck
and arm hole with a \ inch stitch, being careful not to stretch the
goods as it is cut partly on the bias.
In taking up the darts, first pin carefully, beginning at the
top of the dart and holding lines and K a little full for about 3
|
inches above the waist line, begin basting at the point of the
dart, using a small firm stitch.

This system is copyrighted and any-
one infringing in any manner will be
orosecuted.
TO JOIN. ^
Take one side of the hack and one side body, placing the two
waist lines together, and pin fast. Now pin in the traced or
sewing lines, being careful not to stretch either piece, so that
both traced lines will come out even. Now pin from the waist
line down; begin basting at the waist line, removing the pins as
you baste, making a small stitch, not over %
inch. Now baste
down from the waist line.
Take the under arm shape and pin to the side body, being
careful to have the waist lines meet; baste from waist line up
and down. Now join the back, pinning at the waist line, and
then in the traced lines up and down; begin basting at the
waist line up, then down.
TO STITCH.
First see that the tension in the machine is not too tight,
and a medium stitch (not too short), run the machine with an
easy, steady motion (not too fast).. Use silk in stitching in
every case. Begin the back seams starting at the neck, and
stitch just inside of the basting, stretching the seam well for
about 8 inches above the waist line, while stitching, in order
that the seam will give to the bone when that is sprung in so
as not to break the stitch in the seam.
Stitch the next, or side body seam, with the side body up,
beginning at dot 2, and stitching down, just outside of the
basting; stretch the seam while stitching for about 6 inches
above the waist line. Stitch the under arm shape on the side
body, under arm shape up, beginning at dot 7, and stitching down
just outside of the basting, stretching the seam while stitch-
ing for about 6 inches above the waist line. To stitch the left
side of the basque, begin at the bottom and stitch up, following
the same instructions, this will place the side body and under
arm shape up the same as the right side.
Front. Stitch the right side first, beginning at the waist line
and stitching up and down. Slightly curve the seam out at
y
the point of the dart beginning 2 inch below the point of the
dart, and finishing y
2 inch above, nearly parallel with the
thread of the goods; this will obviate any fullness.
PRESSING.
First, remove the basting from the seams only. Never press
a curved seam on a flat surface; if you have nothing better turn
a rocking-chair bottom up, and use the rocker. See that the
iron is well heated not too hot start pressing at the bottom
;
of the waist; take plenty of time and be careful that the iron
does not come in contact with any other part of the waist. Do
not stretch the seams. If heavy woolen material the seam can
be slightly moistened.
TO PREPARE FOR BONING.
First take the back seam and notch at the waist line and then
3 and 6 inches above then trim and round the seam off at the
;
notches; now either overhand or bind the seam; if binding is
used be careful and put it on slightly full so as to prevent any
tightness on the seam. Notch the side body or curved seam
at the waist line and 2 J, 5 and 8 inches above waist line; after
notching finish off the seam the same as the back, the seam
that joins the under arm shape to the side body notch at waist
line and 2\ and 5 inches above and finish the same as the other
seams.
Front. Cut open the dart to within %
inch of the point and
trim the wide part down to \ inch in width. Notch the first
dart at the waist line and 2 inches above, and the second dart
at waist line and 2 and 4 inches above waist line, and finish the
same as the other seams. (The reason for notching the seams
is to allow them to spring into the form and prevent binding.)
Now fold the front hem in along line A, and baste back to
%
prepare the front for button holes or hooks and eyes, When
 buttons are used, it is well to place a narrow strip of lining or
canvas between the fold to stay the button holes. Do not
turn in the left side, as that is used as a fly, by putting on a
tape just back of line A, to stay the buttons. When huoks and
eyes are used it is well to turn back and fold the lin-
ing along line A, and stitch } inch back from the edge.
It is best to place a bone in each edge of the front in order to
keep the waist from running up; to do this begin even with
the point of the dart and stitch down \ inch further in (or the
width of the bone). The bone should be placed in before
putting on the hooks and eyes. The hooks should be placed
back yk inch from edge, and the eyes just even with the edge.
Face over the hooks and eyes with a narrow bias strip.

BONING.
VIENNA
Real whalebones are always the best and should be prepared
by soaking in cold or tepid water. (Never in hot, as that
MILLINERY INSTITUTE makes them brittle.) When the single casing is used, it should
be sewed on firmly and held full from one inch below the waist
line to 4 or 5 inches above, the balance put in slightly full.
Turn the end of the binding down forming a loop about one
The entire art of inch long and fasten firmly.
Round the end of the bone off smoothly and force it in the
Frer\cF\ casing from bottom to the top of the loop. Then fasten
tight by sewing through the casing only 2 inch below the
y
top of bone. Now force the bone up so as to remove the
s Ailliriery^ fullness in the casing and fasten firmly 3 inches above the
waist line. Then hoop the bone so as to take out the greater
TAUGHT. part of the fullness in the casing, and fasten firmly one inch
below the waist line. When double casing is used, cut the
From the making of Wire Frames to the casing 2 inches longer than the bone, place the bone in the
casing, turn the upper end of the casing down 1% inches and
Final Finishing of the Hat
fasten, the balance to be turned up at the bottom and fastened.
or Bonnet.
Now sew the lower end of the bone firmly on seam one inch up
from the bottom of the waist. Now spring the bone %
inch and
You Learn all the Fine Points. fasten firmly to the seam }& inch below end of the bone. Sew
both sides to the seam down to within 3 or 4 inches of the waist
line. This will force the hoop part within the proper position.
This system is so thoroughly taught that Now sew from the bottom up on both sides. The length of the
scholars after finishing are fully com- bone for the back should be %
of the back measure. Use a bone
petent to take charge of business for 2 inches shorter for the curved or side body seam. The bones
themselves, or take leading positions for each side of the under arm shape seams should be one inch
shorter than the under arm measure. The bones for the darts
for others.
in front should come to within %
inch of the point of the dart
fasten % inch below the top of the bone. Covered and
ever ready steels are put on in the same manner as the
bones in the double casing. A nice finish for the bones is to
feather stitch them, with twist or embroidery silk, using
VIENNA some pretty contrasting color.
Now put the waist together, joining the front to the under
MILLINERY INSTITUTE arm shape, beginning at the waist line and pinning up. Then
pin down from the waist line. Baste the same as the other
114 Fifth Avenue, New York, seams from the waist line up and down. Now join the
shoulder, stretch the front shoulder Yz inch so as to join evenly
with the back and pin and baste with the front towards you.
The back shoulder can be put on full, should you not be able
to stretch the front sufficiently to meet it. Press well. Trim
the seam down to /z Y
inch and notch in the center and stitch
and finish the same as other seams.
Before stitching the under arm seam, take your tape line
and measure the waist and bust lines and see if they correspond
exactly with your measure.

FACING.
Pin the waist lines together and shape the bottom of the
waist as desired. Prepare the canvas for the bottom by cut-
ting a bias strip 1 2 inches deep,- stretching it as you baste to fit
y
the shape at the bottom. Then turn ixp canvas and material
 tget|r Yi inch and eatch it down slightly to the lining, this
Will make a smooth and firm edge for the bottom of the waist.
Now cut the facing bias i to 2 inches wide, pin firmly on,
^
stretching so as to shape smoothly to the waist and turning in
% inch at the bottom ready for felling. Turn the upper edge
in and fell with a light stitch, being careful not to catch through
the lining.
COLLAR.
Measure the neck of the dress and add ^ mcn to the measure
and draft collar according to instructions. Use tailor canvas
for foundation. If the canvas is used double, then stitch it cross
and lengthwise in order to give it firmness. Pin the canvas
on the material and cut y2 inch larger all around. Cut the lin-
ing the same size. Now baste the canvas on the material and
fold over the edge and baste to the canvas. Catch down to
the canvas with a long stich without catching through.
Get the centre of the collar and pin to the center of the back.
Then pin around to the front, then slip stitch on to the neck of
the dress. Place the hooks on the right end of the collar and
the eyes on the left. Now baste the lining on. Turn in the
edge all around, beginning at the top and fell down.
Awaist is never finished without a belt, as that holds it firmly
in position, if put in properly. Cut the belt a inches longer than
the waist measuie and finish off ^2 inch less than the waist meas-
ure by turning in each end and placing hook and eye so that
the two ends will meet. Pin the centre of the belt to centre
seam in the back having the lower edge of the belt } inch
above the waist line. Then pin to the side body seams and
cross stitch to the three seams.

This system is copyrighted, and any-

one infringing in any manner will be
prosecuted.

When Velvet, Plush or Fur is made up, the pile or nap should
run up.

In making light-weight Silks or Challies it is well to split a

sheet of wadding and cut to fit the lining and place between
the lining and goods
the smooth side next the lining -^.this
will give a full mellow effect and make a smooth seam, and
prevent any small or pin wrinkles.

When the measure has been taken correctly and the basting,
boning and stitching done properly, the waist should fit per-
fectly, but it is well for beginners to try the waist on before
stitching the under arm seam. (Stitch and bone all of the
other seams. ) Unless absolutely necessary never make a change
on line A, in front, as that is apt to spoil the shape of the waist.-

If there has been a mistake made, you had better draft the
waist -over than to make any large alterations. This will
not occur if care has been taken. Should alterations be
made on the shoulder, first pin the waist line fast so as not to
make the basque short-waisted.
 BIAS DART,

Draft the same as for a plain waist. Place a new dot

I
3 l
V* inches straight out from dot 3, Place the y2
|

inch mark on new dot 3 an d draft new line K to dot |5-

|

Place dot 17 5 inches straight down from new dot |3-

Place letter \\ on new dot 13 and draft line to dot 17. O

Place dot 18 4 inches straight out from from dot 7. Place

dot 19 5 inches straight down from dot 18. Place new dot
7 2^4 inches straight in from dot 18, Place dot X ^
inch staaight up from the new dot 7, Place the corner
of square on dot X the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot
X the length of under arm measure and place a new dot Q
above line D
Place letter A on dot X and draft line E to
new dot 6. Draft a line from dot X to dot i3. Place letter
A on dot X an d draft line P to dot I9. Place dot 20 on line B
6}4 inches from dot 3. Place dot 2i 1% inches straight down
from dot 2O. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on
dot 2l and draft line Q the proportionate length of shoulder,
Without moving the curve place dot 22 % inch less than
the actual length of shoulder on line Q. Draft line R
straight down from the end of line to line [) Q Place
dot 23 on ^ ne R
2 inches up from line [) Place dot
24 one mcn straight in from dot 23- Place letter [)
on dot 24 and draft line S to new dot 6. Place letter K
on dot 24 an d extend line 5 to dot 22 For a stout
lady with high or full shoulders place a new dot 2 H incn
above dot 2 an d a new dot 3-% inch above dot 3 an d draft
according to dotted lines.

WAIST WITH ONE DART.

Draft the same as for a plain waist except the darts.

Place dot \Q 2 / 2 inches from dot 8 on line p.
l

Place dot J J /i of the width of both darts from dot

2
Q. |

Place dot 2 the remaing }i of both darts in from dot 7-

J

Place letter \
on dot 2 a nd draft new line
|
to dot 9.
Place dot 3 n line
| Q
straight up from center of the dart.
Place the % inch mark on dot | an d draft line J to dot 1 3
Reverse the curve and draft line K. Draft line ft
straight down from dot 0- Measure 5 inches straight
|

down from the center of the dart and place dot 4- Draft
|

line O from dot to dot 4. | Place dot 6 2 inches

straight out from dot 2-
| |

Place dot ~] 5 inches straight
|
|
|

down from dot 6 |

Place letter J\ on dot 1 2 an d draft
line P to dot 7. |

THE TAlLOR-RflADE DRESS.

There is just one way for a gentlewoman to dress when she
goes on the street, and that is in a tailor-made suit, without
ornamentation, but the perfection of fit and workmanship.
There is something about the t.-ilor dressed woman that com-
TO LOCATE DOT 10 FROM mands respect. For business, sh pping, or railroad travel, it
DOT 8. has no equal. You have the satisfaction of 1 x>king like a lady
foggC. WAIST MEASURE. a^ being treated as one, n> matter where you go.
1 to 20
8 - - - 2 inches The
narket is full of drafting Machines, Charts, and other con-
21 " 22 - - - 2% nvances for cutting ladLs' dresses. Not one of them can
" 24
23
25 " 26
-

-
-

-
-

-
2>
2^
>roperly cut a tailor fitting cosiume that can be done only
-h3 material the same that a merchant tailor cuts foi
on
27 " 28 - - -
a man,
3 F.rst-class ladies' tailors do not use them. You cannot get tha
2 93 " - - - 3K ame results that you do from an actual tailor system. Inves-
31 " 32 - - - zYt. tigate before you make an investment.
Above 32 inches same proportion.
 1

BIAS FRONT.
Draft line A 2 inches from edge of cloth. Draft Hrtfi

B one inch from the ttrpper\end of cloth. Place dot 2

on line A and from line B the distance given in the table under
dot 2 according to the size of neck. Place a new dot

Dot 2 2% *h 3 3^ 3^ sti 4 4^
Neck size 10 1 12 '3 14 is 16 17

Dot 3 2% 2% 3 3# 3* 3
3 /s 3^ b#
I- /?
1
inch straight out from dot 2. Place dot 3 on line .

B from line A the distance given in the table under dot 3

according to size of neck. Place letter (J on new dot 2
and draft line to dot 3. Place dot 4 on line A an d from
line B 6 inches more than ^ of the arm's eve measure.
Place dot 5-4 inches straight Urj from dot 4 on line A
Draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5.
Place dot 6 on line D and from dot 5 the distance given in the
table for front Bust No. Place dot 7 straight down trom
dot 6 the length of under arm measure. Place a new
dot 7 straight in from d <' 7-^ of the width of both darts.
Place letter A '% incl above new dot 7 and draft line E to dot
6. Place dot 8 on line A the length of front measure
below <!ot 2. Place letter (J- on dot 8 and draft line fj to
new dot 7.
r Place a dot on line A K the distance between
dots 4 and 5. Place dot 9-% inch outside of dot last
made. Place letter E on new dot 2 and edge of curve on
dot 9 and draft line J* to meet line A DeWv dot 4. Place
letter on the end of line F edge or curve on dot 8 and con-
H
tinue line p 2 or 3 inches below dot 8. Place a dot }&
.

inch each side of dot 9 and draft a dart to meet 2^ inches

straight out from dot 9. Place dot 10 on line (} from dot
8-^3 of the distance between dot 8 and new dot 7. Place
This Waist is very effective when the
dot 11 on line (J and from dot 10-^ of the distance of both darts.
bust is futl with a small waist. It can be
cut with good effect on a true bias of both
Place the corner of square on dot 4 and draft line out 2 H
inches beginning \ / l
z inches from dot 4. Place dot 12 on
lining; and material.
line H straight up from dot 10 Place letter A on dot
10 and draft line J to dot 12. Place letter A on dot 11
and draft line K to dot 12. Place dot 13 3% inches
straigh; down from the center of the dart. Draft line |_ from
dot 10 t >
13. Draft line M straight down from dot 11.
Place dot X 5 1. ehc.s strai'fe
down from dot 7. Place letter
A on new draft to
dot- d.t X.
7 See d.a^ram.
and
Place dot 14 on line B 6 inches from dot 3. %
Place dot
15-1 X
inches straight down from dot 4. Place letter r

A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 15 and draft line the M

proportionate length of shoulder. Without moving the curve
place dot i6-j4 inch less than the actual length of shoulder on
line M- Draft line straight U
from the end of line JJ
to line Place dot 17 on line JJ 1 2 inches straight
I). y
1
1 from line D. Place dot 18 one inch straight in
from dot 17. Place letter J) on dot 18 and draft line Q
to dot 6. Place letter J on dot 18 and extend line to
dot 16. i
 1 .

CENTER BACK.
Dratt lines and B A H
inch irom the edge and end of
goods. Place dot 2 on line A +v, e distance givvn in the table
for back neck under dot %
Dot 2 y& % n # Ks'
Neck Size |
7 8 9 10 1 12 .'3 14 <5 16 17 l8
1

Dot 3 yi n I iVs X ifi r/2 iV& * 1% 2 2>6

Place <!ot 3 on line B
the distance given in the table for bac :

neck under dot 3 Place point of curve on dot and and 2

draft line C
to dot 3. Place dot;4 the length of back
measure on line A and below dot 2 Draft line

D
straight out from dot 4 about 1 5 inches. Place dot 5
on line D
24 inch from dot 4. [Place dot 6 the distance
from dot 5 that the table gives for the width of center back
Draft line
beginning y
inch below dot 5 and drafting to dot
2 Place dot 7
5 inches straight down from dot 5
Place dot 8 }i inch straight in[from dot 7- Draft line F
from the end of line , to dot 8. Hi Place dot*9 on line B
6^4 inches from dot Place dot 10 4>4 inches straight down
from dot 9. Place letter A on dot 3 edge of curve
on dot I an d draft line \\ the proportionate length of shoul-
der. " See Table." Witout moving the curve place
dot I I the actual lenght of shoulder measure from dot 3
on line \\ Place dot 2 J inches straight down
| M
from the end of line H Place the point of curve
on dot I 2 and draft line J to dot Place dot | 3 2
|
| y
inch straight out from dot 6 on line*Q- Plact letter Y n
1 2 and the edge of curve on dot 3 and draft HneJK from dot |

j 2 to letter J " on the curve, "\**m Reverse the curve and place
letter N on dot 6 and continue]the]|K to dot 6- Draft line
G straight down from the end of line |(.
SIDE BODY.
Place the short arm of square on line A in the back, drafting
the long arm on dot 12 and draft line N straight out.
Place dot 1 on line N~ 2 inches from dot 12. Place dot
2 on line Q-2 inches from dot 6. Place dot 3-/^ inch
straight out from dot 2- Place letter V on dot 1 the
edge of curve on dot 2 and draft line A from dot 1 to letter J
(on the "iurve. ) Place letter A on the end of line A and
continue line A
j4 inch below dot 3- Place dot 4 the
width of side body (as given in the table) from dot 3- Place
dot 5 n line N 1% inches from dot Place letter Q on |

dot 5 and draft line to dot 4- B Measure down line U

from dot 5 2 /^ inches and place dot 6- Place the point of
curve on dot | and draft line C to dot 6- Place dot "] one
inch out from dot 4- Place dot 8 5 inches straight down
from dot 7- Place letter \\ on dot 4 and draft line to
dot 8- Place dot Q-}4 inch in from dot 2
Place dot 0"5 inches straight down^from dot 9-
|
Draft line
F from the end of lineJA to dot| | 0-
UNDER ARM SHAPE.
Place dot 2 on line D~3/^ inches from dot 4- Place
dot 3 on line D the distance from dot 2 that the table gives
for the width of under arm shape. Place dot 4 straight
up from dot 2 the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side
body. Place d t 5~^C inch straight out from dot 4.
Place dot 6 from dot 4 the distance between dots 2 and 3-
Place tVi ciwr of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and
measure up f .*om dot 3 the length of under arm measure and
place dot i Place letter S on dot 2 and draft line A to
dot 5. Place letter S on dot 3 and draft line B to dot 7.
Draft lire f) with the point of curve from dot 5 to dot 7
Place dot 8 on line fl 1% inches in from dot 2- Place
dot 9 5 inches straight down from dot 8-
Place dot |
Place letter
one inch
G on dot 2 and draft line g to dot 9.
straight out from dot 3 on line Q. Place dot | | -5 inches
straight down from dot 0- Place letter letter || on dot 3
|

and draft linef to | | .

 TWO UNDER ARM SHAPES.
For all waist measures up to 32 make the center than the length of the under arm measure, and place
of back one inch. For all waist measures over 32, dot 8 in from dot 2 only one inch.
make the center of back 1 % inches. Second under arm shape:
For example take 42 bust and 32 waist. Draft the same placing dot 4 straight up from
The table gives for the center of back, 1% inches. dot 2-}^ inch more than the under arm measure, and
For the side body, 3^ inches. place dot 7 straight up from dot 3 the actual
For under arm shape, 3^ inches. length of under arm measure. Place dot 8 but one
Make the following changes: inch in from dot 2-
Take from the back % inch. *
When the style of goods will permit the 2 under
" " " side body 1 " arm shape can be cut on a true bias both lining and
" " " front 1 " material with good effect.
For waist measures 28 to 30 dot 10 should be 1%
Total, a# inches from dot 8, and for waist measures over 30.
Addthe width of under dot 1 should be from 2 to 2 %
inches from dot
g
arm shape, 3^ " and dot 12 should be from 1 to 1% inches from dot H.

Making, 6^ MEASURE FOR PRACTICE.

This gives two under arm shapes, 3^ inches each. Bust -
42
Waist 32
* First under arm shape Front iS
Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the Back
Under Arm 8
following- changes: Shoulder 6
Place dot .5 1 inch from dot 4. Neck 13
Arm's Eye
SV
-
Place dot 7 straight up from 2 inch more.
13
 FOR VERY LARGE LADIES.
BACK.
Draft the same as for a plain waist making the center of the
back one inch and placing dot 12 but i^ inches from the end
of line ||.

1ST SIDE BODY.

Draft the same as for a plain waist, placing dot 5 -I X inches
from dot 2 and placing letter p from dot 5 in drafting line B-
2ND SIDE BODY.
Draft the same, drafting a new line N straight out from dot -

6- Place dot 5- M
inch from dot Q and place dot 6 only
one inch from dot 5- Place letter P on dot 2 to draft
line A an d place letter G on dot 5 to draft line B-
1ST UNDER ARM SHAPE.
Draft the same as for a plain waist, placing dot 7 - /^ inch
more than the under arm measure from dot 3 and place
1
">

dot 8 only one inch from dot 2-

2ND UNDER ARM SHAPE.
Draft the same placing dot 4 - /^ inch more than the under
arm measure rp from dot 2, and placing dot 7 the actual
1
ength of under arm measure up from dot 3-
See measure for practice.

MEASURE FOR PRACTICE

Bust - 50 Under Arm sy2
Waist - 40 Shoulder 7
Front - 1
Neck
Back - 1
y Arm's Eye J
5
Take from the front, . 1 inch.
back, ..
1 "
Add width of side body, - .
4
under arm s hape "
A%
Total. io/2
This width of the side body, each
will give the 2 %.
Width of under arm shape, each 2^.
 ETON WAIST,
Draft line A -1 /^- mc h from edge of cloth. Draft line
B i** inches from end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line
A and from line B the distance given in the table from dot 2-
According to size of neck. (See table for front neck on the
curve.) Place dot 3 on line B %inch more than the
distance given in the table for dot 3. Place dot 4 on line
y
A and from line B-6 inches more than 2 of the arm's eye meas-
ure. Place dot 5 n line A 4 inches above dot 4.
Place corner of square on dot 5 an d draft line D straight out
beginning 6 inches from dot 5- Place dot 6 on line \)
and frcm dot 5 one inch more than the table gives for the Bust
number. tlace dot 7 the length of under arm measure
straight down from ^ocjj Place dot 8 on line A the length
of Front measure b^iowdot 2- Place letter H on dot 8
and draft line F to dot 7. Place a new dot 2-% inch
inside of dot % Place a new dot 5~X inch outside of
dot 5- Place a new dot 8~>^ f the width of the first
dart from dot 8 on line p. Place letter H on new dot 2
and draft to new dot 5. Place letter G on new clot 5 and
draft to dot 4- Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to new
dot 8. Place letter H on new dot 8 Pr>A rVaft tr>rr^' * Tim

A 5 inches below dot 8
the width of the second dart and
Place a new dot 7 inside of dot 7
2 y the width of the
first dart. Place dot 9 iy2 inches straight down from
dot 6. Draft line E from dot 6 to dot 9. Place letter A
on new dot 7 and draft to dot 9. Place dot 20 on line B
6 finches from dot 3. Place dot 21 J M
inches straight
down from dot 20- Place letter A on dot 3 the
edge of curve on dot 21 an d draft line Q the proportionate
length of shoulder. Without moving the curve place dot 22
the actual length of shoulder measure on line Q. Dratt
line R straight from the end of line Q to line f). Place
dot 23 on line R 1^ inches from line Q. Place dot 24
one inch straight in from dot 23- Place letter D on dot
24 and draft line S to meet line D one inch inside of dot 6-
Place letter K on dot 24 an d extend line S to dot 22- Ex-
tend line A up from line B 3/^ inches and place dot 25-
Place dot 26 straight from dot 25~5 inches. Place
dot 27 on hne B - ^ inch from line A * Place corner of
square on dot 27 the edge resting on dot 26 an d draft line J
about 20 inches. Place letter \) on new dot 2 a d draft
line C to dot 3 a nd extend to line J. Measure out line J
from line C the length of back measure and place dot 28>
Place the corner of square on dot 28 the edge resting on line
J and draft line U out 9 inches. Place dot 29 on line U
and from dot 28 one inch less than the combined width of cen-
ter back side body and under arm shape. Place the
corner of square on dot 22 the long arm parallel with line J
and place dot 30 the distance given in the table according to
arm's eye measure. Place dot Z\~/4 inch outside of dot
Arm's eye measure 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

Dot 30 3 3X 3^ 3H
30- Place the corner of square on dot 31 the long arm
parallel with lineX and* place dot 32 the width of under arm
shape from dot 31. Place the corner of squaae on dot 29
the edge on dot 32 and measure down thedistance between dot
6 and new^dot 7 (in front drafting), and place dot 33-
Elace letter A on dot 29 and draft line V to dot 33. Place
the X point of the curve on dot 33 and draft line W
to dot 22.

Pay close attention 10 die uugiam 1.1 making your draftings

and you will have no trouble. Bone the lining before
stitching it to the outside material. Darts can be used if
desired but they must be made }4 inch less on each dart than
the table calls for and omit making new dot
J
 SEAMLESS WAIST.
Use the
fold of goods for center of back. Draft line
B from the top of cloth.
10 inches Place dot 2 on fold of
goods the distance given in the "neck" table under dot 2.
Place dot 3 on line B the distance given in the neck * table
under dot 3. Draft ine C from dot 3 to dot
2- Measure down the fold of goods 7 incaes from line B
and place dot 4. Measure down the fold of goods _from
line B the length of bacK measure and place dot 5. Draft
line D straight out from dot 5, the combined width of center
back and sidebody less one half inch. Measure 4 inches
down from line B and place dot 6 on fold of goods, Place
dot 7 on line B 6^ inches from dot 3. Place dot 8
four inches staight down from dot 7 Place letter A on
dot 3 and edge of curve on dot dot 8 and draft line E the pro-

portionate length of shoulder "see table'' without moving
the curve place dot 9 the actual length of shoulder measure.
Place dot 10 5 inches-straight out from dot 4. Place
point of square on dot 6, the edge resting on dot 10, and place
dot 11 one-half inch more than }4 of the bust measure from
dot 6 and draft line F from dot 10 to dot 1 1. Place point
of square on dot 11, the short arm even with line F and draft
line G up 2 inches more than }i of the arm's eye measure.
Draft line H
straight in from from the end of line G- Place
dot 12 on line G and from line H
the distance given in the table
for "front neck" under dot 2- Pace dot 13 three-eights
of an inch inside of dot 12. Place dot 14 on line one- H
fourth inch more than is given in the -'neck table" under dot
3. Place letter B on dot 13 and draftlinel to dot
14 Extend line G down from dot II and place dot 15
the length of front measure from dot 12- Place tne
_

point of square on the end of line D, the edge resting on dot

15 and place dot 16 }4 inch less than the combined width of
bust number and under-arnr "shape less the size of both darts
from end of line B. Place on the end of line D and
letter F
draft line J to dot 16. Place letter R on dof II and
'

draft line K to dot 16, Draft line L from dot 13 to dot

11. Place dot 17 online H ond from dot 14 6^ inches.
Place dot (8 1-% inches staight down from dot 17- Place
the corner of square on dot 14 the edge resting on dot 18 and
draft line M the proportionate length of shoulder measure' (see
The Seamless "Waist L> not ad- table). Without moving the square place dot 19 the
v'sabli for a large waist measure, the actual length of shoulder. Draft line S straight down
but for a medium or small waist or' from the end of line M to line F Place dot 20 on line N
for slender ladies it is very desirable.

1% inches above line F and place dot 21 1 inch inside of dot
20. Place letter B on dot 21 and draft line to line F-
A seam c:m be had on the shoul-
Place
Place letter T on dot 2 and extend line
I
to dot |9-
ders, if desired, by cutting on the end of
dot 22 on line F Yz the distance between dot IO and the
dotted lines on the back shoulder. line N. on dot
Place letter |[and draft line P to dot
9 Place edge of square even with line E, and place
dot 23 from dot 3 the distance given in the front neck table
for dot 3. Place the corner of square on dot 23 tne
edge resting on line E and draft line Q out about 10 inches.
Place dot 24 the distance from dot 23 that is given in the
front "neck" table under dot 2- Place letter B on dot 24
and drart line R to dot 3- Place letter G on dot 9 and
draft line U to end of line Q.
Follow the diagram in your drafting and you will have no
rouble.
 PRiixcess.
wais downJ-O the
Draft the front the same as for a plain
\~
darts. For all darts i % inches and over reduce the si*. .
dot 7, the distance of
darts yi and place a new dot 7 inside of
finish the darts below
the amount taken from the darts. To
the waist line they are drafted so as to meet 5^ inches below
The top of the darts are finished the
the center of the dart.
out side f new
same as a plain waist. Place dot 16 two inc hes
dot 7. Place dot 17 seven inches straight down from dot 1
P to dot 1 7.
Meas-
Place letter A on new dot 7 and draft line
inch|more than the skirt
ure down trom dot 8 in front one
measure and place dot 1 8. Measure straight down new
clot 7

two incius more than the length of the skirt measure and
place dot 19. Draft line W
from dot 18 to dot 19. Make the
balance of the skirt the same length as the distance between
dots 7 and 19.

UNDER ARM SHAPE.

Extend F straight out from dot 7 about 5 inches.
line
Place dot H 2 ncn from dot 1 g'and on line F. Place dot
i

3 straight up from dot 2 the length" of under arm measure.

Place letter |f on dot* 3 and draft'line^A to'dot 2. Place dot
4 from dot 2 the width'of the undei'arm shape as given in the
?

table. Place dot 5 straight up from dot 4 the distance be-

tween dots 4 and 6Jin the side body. Placedot 6 }imch inside
of dot 5, Place letter \\ on dot 6 *nd draft line g to dot
Place letter/^ on dot 6 and draft line C to dot 3. Place
14. l % inches straight out from dot
dot 7 4, Place dot 8 seven
inches straight down from dot 7. Place letter^" on dot 4 an d
o> 9 draft line D to dot 8. Extend line D two inches more than the
Place letter A on dot
s
length of the skirt measure from dot 4.
2 and draft line E to dot 7. Extend line I W
to the end of line
D.

PRINCESS BACK.
Draft the same as for a plain waist down to the waist line.
Place dot 8. straight out from dot 5 about 12 inches. Place
dot^9 I ancl %
inches straight down from dot 8, Draft line L
from dot 5 to dot 9 , Measure straight down from dot Q-8 inches
Place edge ot square (or skirt rule) on dots Q and \ 4 and draft
'line M
2 niore inches than the skirt measure from dot Q To
shape the skirt at the bottom measure down from the waist line
every 5 or 6 inches and make a dot the same length as line Hi.
See dotted lines.
SIDE BODY.
Draft the same as for a plain waist making the following
changes. Place dot 3 only 2 inches from dot 6 and draft lines
E and J to meet 8 inches below the waist line. Place dot 7 one
and y2 inches outside of dot 4 and on line Q and place dot 8-
7 inches below lot 7. Place letter H on dot 7 and draft line D
to dot 8. v^oncinue line D down the length of skirt.
3 The under arm shape and the side body can be cut separately
if desired by following the dotted lines E and J. Follow the
diagram and you will have no trouble.
 m ""o
BERLIN WAIST.
Draft lines A and g one inch from the edge and of goods-
Place dot 2 on line \ the distance given in the neck table
for dot 2-

Dot 2 y8 - '

% n % n
Neck Size 7 8 9 IO ii 72 13 14 15 16 17 18

Dot 3 H i I 3/8 IS/3 1 2 2}i

Place dot 3 on line B
the distance given in the neck table
for dot 3. Draft line
point of the curve.
C
from dot 2 to dot 3 with the
Place dot on line A. the length of4
back measure below dot 2- Draft line Q straight out from
dot 4- Place dot 5 one inch from dot 4 on line D-
Place dot 8 on line D
the width of center back side form
and under arm shape from dot 5, Draft line E beginning
4 inches below line
B
B
and drafting to dot 5. Place dot
9 on line 6>4 inches from dot 3. Place dot rQ in-
ches straight down from dot 9.
the edge of arm on dot
Place letter on dot 3
and draft line f the proportionate
A |

length of shoulder. See Table. Place dot 2 straight down |

from line the end of line F the distance given in the table ac-
cording to arms eye measure.
Length of line G 2^2^ 3
1/
3-A

Arm' * e^e Measure

1

7 10 11 12 13 i 4 |
15 16 I
17

Place dot | 3 straight out from dot | 2 the distance given in

the table for the width of under arm shape. Place the cor-
ner of square on dot 8 the edge on dot 3 and measure up from
|
dot 8 the length of under arm measure and place dot
| A.
Place the point of curve on dot | 4 and draft line
Q to the
end of line "F- Place letter Q on dot I A and draft line II
to dot 8- .

When drafting for Children, place line A. 1 Y-z inches from

the edge of goods and omit dot 5, also draft the shoulder y, in-
ch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. The waist
can be cut without a seam in the back, by usino- the fold
the goods for the center of the back and ommitting dot
5 The
under arm shape can be cut seperate if desired.

CHILDREN S FRONT.
Use the fold of goods for line A- Place line B one inch
from the lower end of goods. Place dot 2 on the fold of
goods and from line B the distance given in the neck table under
dot 2 according to neck measure. Place dot 3 on line B
Dot 2, 2 2X 2/2 2^ 3 3X Z%
Place dot 2 on line F straight
|
Neck Size. 7 8 9 10 1 12 J
3
up from the center of the dart.
Draft lines Q and H the same as Dot 3, 2 2^ 2% 23/a 2}i 2S/8 2%
other darts. Place letter C on dot2
the distance from line A that the table gives under dot 3
and draft line | to dot 3- Place dot
'Place dot 4 on line A 5 inches more than % of the arrus eve
20 online B 6>2 inches from dot
measure below line B. Place dot 5 3 inches above dot 4
3- Place dot 21 1% inches straight
down from dot 20- Place letter A Draft line C staright out beginning A. inches from dot 5.
Place dot 6 at the front bust on line C. See table for distance.
on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot
Place dot ~] the length of under arm measure
2| and draft line Q y2 inch less straight down from dot 6- Place dot 8 the length of front
than the proportionate length of
shoulder. See table. Draft line R measure down dot 2 and on the fold of goods. Place
the edge of square on dot 8 and draft line [) to dot 7.
straight up from the end of line Q Measure out line D from dot 8 the distance given in the table
to line C- Place dot 23 on ^ nt R
one inch below line C. Place dot for "front waist" and place a new dot 7. Draft line
24 one inch in from dot 23- from dot6 to newdot7 ?lace dot 9 online E-I inches %
dQWn from dot 6. Flace the corner of square on dot 4 the
Place letter Q on dot 24 an d draft
edge on dot 9 and draft line p out 3 inches beginning ? inches
line S to dot 6- Place letter K on
dot 24 and extend line S to the end from dot 4.
of line Q, Place dot 10 on line D 2 X
inches from dot 8. Place
dot. 11 from dot 10 the w'dth of dart as given in "the table."
 LADIES' SHIRT WAIST.
Back.
Draft the Berlin Back. Shape Yoke as desired from the
upper part of the back. The lower part can be made plain or
can be cut 4 inches wider than the lining and gathered into the
yoke.

Front.
Draft the plain front with one dart cutting the outside
material 5 inches out from line A (for fullness) and cut the neck
one inch higher than dot 2- When without lining draft a
pattern for a guide and cut material as above.

SAILOR'S BLOUSE.
FOR LADIES OR CHILDREN.
Back.
Draft the Berlin Back, add 1% inches to the waist line
from dot 8 and draft line || to dot 4- Cut 6 inches below
|

waist line.

Front.
Draft the plain Front, add 4 inches to the waist line from
dot 7 omit darts and cut 6 inches below waist line.
.

Diagram showing the changes necessary in drafting for a

very large Bust and narrow back.

After locating dot "J place a new dot 6 \yz inches

straight out from dot 6 and draft from ~] to new dot 6-
Add 2 inches more to the Front Measure than the in-
struction calls for. Draft the point of the darts
one inch above line Q. See Diagram. Place a new dot 2 1/4
above dot 2 and one mcn m Place dot X 3 incn out fr
-
A m
dot 4- Place letter R on dot X and draft to dot 2- Place
the 5 inch mark on dot A and continue the curved line j inch
in from dot 8 at waist line. See diagram. Take a 1 % inch
dart in the lining at dot 5- See diagram. Raise the
shoulder from \)i to 1^ inches above the regular drafting and
and draft % inch longer than the actual shoulder measure and
take a dart ^ inch in the shoulder to meet 4 inches below^
the shoulder. See diagram, Take a one inch dart in the
arms eye. See diagram.

Back.
Draft the same as a plain back making the following
changes. Place dot | 0*3 inches down from dot <} Use
the actual length of shoulder for line H Place a new dot
| 2>2
inch in from dot | 2- See diagram.
The dotted lines show the ordinary drafting.
Bust, 52 Waist. 32, Front 19, Back, 17^ Under Arm 9
Shoulder 6. Neck 17. Arms Eye 17. '
 TO PUT THE LINING ON FULL.
First, see that the lining is cut y?, inch longer than the measure.
Place the lining on the cloth. See that the cloth is perfectly
smooth. Run a basting across the lining about 3 inches above
the waist line in the front and from 4 to 4^ inches in the back,
side-body and under-arm shape. Now push the lining up Yz inch
and run a basting across the waist line. Now grade the fullness in
the lining by running a basting ( % inch stitch) % inch inside of the
tracing making the most fullness near the waist line. Now baste
in the tracing % inch stitch. Make the lining slightly full for
about 1 inch below the waist line. The bones must be put in
easy up to the waist line, when they must be sewed perfectly
tight and above the waist line they must be sprung in at least
Yi inch in order to remove the fullness in the lining. The
casing should be sewed tight to the seam of the dress and then
cross stitched if desired. Begin at the waist line to do your
basting (darts excepted, which must be started at the point of
the dart) and baste up and down. The basting should not be
longer than % inch stitches. Be careful to baste in small
stitches around the arm's eye and neck to prevent stretching.
In joining the waist it is best to pin the traced lines first and
remove the pins as you baste. Measure your waist before
stitching the under arm seam, and if large or small, stitch in-
side or outside of the traced lines.
 $y tf>

FRENCH SLEEVE.
Draft lines A and B ^ inch from the edge and end of cloth
2 on line B ^ of hand measure from line J\
Place dot
Place dot 3 online A 2% inches above line B- Place
the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 2 an d draft line
C 2% inches less than the hand measure. Measure up
line f\ from line B one inch more than the measure from the
elbow to wrist and place dot 4-
out from dot 4-
Place dot 5 3 inches straight
Place dot 6 straight ou tfrom dot 5 !%

inches less than the measure around the arm below the elbow.
Place letter J on dot 5 an d draft line Q to dot 3- Place
dot 7 n line J\ 5 inches less
than the measure from the
shoulder to elbow from dot 4 Place letter Y on dot ~]

and draft line E to dot 5-

above dot 7.
Place dot 8 on line A 5 inches
Draft line f straight out from dot 8. Place


dot 9 on line F one inch more than y2 the measure around arm
below shoulder. Place dot on linep->4 inch more than|
of ^
the measure around the arm below the shoulder from dot Q.
Flace dot on line f }4 inch more than the measure around
| |

arm below shoulder. Place dot 2 one inch straight down |

from dot 0- Place dot 3 i% inchs straight down from dot

| |

I I
Place the
. point of the curve on line F one inch in from
dot 9 an(l draft line Q to dot ~] Place the X point of the curve .

on line F one inch out from dot 9 an d draf line \\ to dot 2- |

Place letter F on dot 2 a nd draft line | to dot 3.

|
Draft |

line J from dot 3 to dot 6 extending 2% inches below dot 6-

|

Place dot 4 A
inch straight in from the end of ltne J.
|

Place the point of curve on dot 6 an d draft line K to dot 4. |

Place letter R on dot 4 and continue line K to the end of line (j.
|

Allow seams on Q E J K an ^ cut on C G H & I-

^^ These. sleeves are"gathered at the elbow. Lay the sleeve
smoth on the table, fold the top over about 3 inches from the
elbow up and from the hand up to the elbow about 2 inches.
Now bring the fullness together at the elbow taking up about
2 inches in space and run in a gathering thread. See that dots
Cv> m 5 come together on the under seam and baste up and down
:

i
from dot 5 being careful not to stretch the goods.
f> 4
| ft
co
1
#. /
UNDER PART OF FRENCH SLEEVE.
?

Draft line fa }4 inch from the edge of cloth. Draft
*/ i
line B straight out from end of line A. Place dot 2 on
line B H
inch less than ^
the measure around the hand from
line A.- Place dot 3 on line l inches above line
Place the the corner of the square on dot 3 the edge on dot 2
A M B
|
and draft line C Yz inch more than the measure around the %
5 * hand from dot 3- Place dot on line A. one inch more 4
"H
than the measure from the elbow to wrist from line B

Place dot 5 3 inches straight out from dot 4- Place dot

6 ^2 inch more than
straight out from dot 5-
%
the measure around arm below elbow
Place letter J on dot 5 and draft line
A D to dot 3- Place dot 7 on line
.'

measure from shoulder to elbow from dot 4-

5 inches less than the
Place letter
A
A H on dot 5 a nd draft line to dot 7 Place dot 8 on line

\
-3.

\
A
C-
;

V
^,
A 1% inches above dot J Place dot 9 A Y
more than
\ ? ,y
% the measure around the arm below the shoulder from dot 8-
\
Place letter K on dot "] and draft line F to dot 9 Draft .

e _iJS t-
\i
line G from dot 9 to dot 6- Place letter Q on dot 6 a nd
*
dr aft line H to end of line Q.
^ Allow for se a ms on lines D E & H- Cut on Hnes C &
o V G F-
e^ tA

PLAIN SLEEVE.
Draft lines A and g Y inch from edge and end of goods.
Place dot 2 on line B }4 of hand measure from line A.
Place dot 3 on line A 2 inches from line B. Draft line

C from dot 2 to dot 3- Measure up line /\ from line g one

inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist and place dot

4- Place dot
5 3 inches straight out from dot 4- Place
dot 6-2 inches more than Y of the measure around arm below
below elbow straight out from dot 5- Place letter J on
dot 5 and draft line Q from dot 3 to letter Q on the curve.
Place dot "] on line /^-5 inches less than the measure from
shoulder to elbow from dot 4- Place letter p on dot 7
and draft to the end of line Q. Place dot 8 on line A
inches from dot "J
Draft line straight out from dot
3- Place dot 9 n line Y* the measure around the S^vv^
below the shoulder. Place dot on line E one inch less |

than the measure around the arm below the shoulder from dot.
8- Place dot | | -2^2 inches straight down from dot | Q.
Place the point of the curve one inch in from dot 9 an(l
draft line F to dot "J
Place the X point of the curve one
inch out from dot 9 and draft line Q to dot | | Draft line

H from dot | | to dot 6- on dot 6 and

Place letter A
continue line \\ to dot 2- Allow for seams on lines Q and
p. Cut on lines C and .

Under part of Sleeve.

Draft lines /\ and BA X inch from the edge and end of
of goods. Place dot 2 on li ne B V* the measure around the
hand from line /\. Place dot 3 on line A 2 inches from line B
Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 2 and
draft line C one inch less than Y hand measure from dot 3-
Place dot 4 n li ne A
one inch more than the measure
'from elbow to wrist from line g Place dot 5 3 inches
straight out from dot 4- Place dot 6 straight out from
dot 5 ne inch less than Y the measure around the arm below
the elbow. Place letter J on dot 5 and draft line ]} to dot
3- Place dot 7 on line J\ 4Y inches less than the meas
ure from the shoulder to elbow from dot 4- Place dot 8
one inch straight out from dot ~] Place letter H on dot 5
and draft to dot 8- Place dot 9 on line A 1% inches up
from dot "]. Place dot |
one half the measure around
the arm below the shoulder straight ont from dot 9- Place
letter K on dot 8 and draft line to dot | 0- Draft line

F from dot |
to dot 6- Place letter J on dot 6 and draft
to the end of line (J-
Allow for seams on lines Q and H
Cut on lines (J> F a d G
 *v m COAT SLEEVE.
Draft lines A & B 2i inch from the edge and end of cloth
Place dot 2 on line B the hand measure from line /\.
Y* f
Place dot inches from line B-
3 on line A 2 Draft line
C from dot 3 to dot 2 Place
dot 4 on line A one inch more
than the measure from elbow to wrist from line B. Place

dot 5 3 inches straight out from dot 4- Place dot 6
f the meas-
straight out from dot 5 Y* inches more than Y*
X

ure around the arm below the elbow. Place letter J on dot
5 and draft line Q from dot 3 to letter Q on the curve Place .

dot 7 on line A~5 inches less than the measure from shoulder
to elbow from dot 4. Place letter p on dot 7 ad draft to
the end of line j) . Place dot 8 on line A 5 inches from dot
7. Draft line straight out from dot 8- Place dot 9 on
line y-z the measure around the arm below shoulder. Place
dot I
on line the measure around the arm below shoulder
from dot 8- Place dot |
|
2^ inches straight down from
dot I 0- Place the Q point of the curve one inch in from
dot 9 and draft line F to dot 7. Place the X point of the
curve one inch out from dot 9 an d draft line Q to dot | |

Draft line J| from dot | to dot 6-

| Place letter A. on dot
5 and draft to dot 2-
Allow for seams on lines D & || cut on lines Q p & Q.

Under Part of Coat Sleeve.

c At _
Draft lines A and B
% inch from the edge and end of
B
-
evi 4 Me
goods. Place dot 2 n line }4 the hand measure from
line A- Place dot 3 n li ne A
2 inches from line B.

Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 2 an d draft

line Q one inch less than y2 of hand measure from dot 3-
<V ^_ Place dot 4 n line A
one inch more than the measure
from elbow to wrist from line B- Place dot 5 3 inches
straight out from from dot 4- Place dot 6 straight out from
dot 5~~Y of the measure around the arm below the elbow.
Place letter J on dot 5 and draft line Q from dot 3 to letter
Q on the curve. Place dot 7 on line 5 inches less than A
themesure from shoulder to elbow from dot 4- Place letter
p on on dnt 7 aQ d draft to the end of line Q. Place dot 8
on line A 2 inches up from dot 7- Place dot 9 straight
out from dot 8 Y f the measure around the arm below the
shoulder. Place letter K on dot 7 an d draft line to dot 9

Draft line J? from dot 9 to dot 6 Place letter Q on dot 6

and draft to the end of line (J-
Allow for seams on lines D& "F" cut on lines C & E-
Use the regular sleeve measure, making the following
changes :Increase the the first and secoud measure around
the arm 1 % inches and the measure around the hand one inch.
ARM MEASURE.
From point of Shoulder to poiut of Elbow, 14.
From point of Elbow to joint of Wrist, 10,
Around the Arm below the Shoulder,
Around the Arm below the Elbow,
Around the Hand. --..-- 11^*
9-
 .

UPPER PART OF CHILD'S SLEEVE. ,.

Draft lines A and B %

inch from the edge and lower end of
cloth.- Place dot 2 on li ne B and from line A Yz inch
more than Y
of the measure around the hand. Place
dot 3 on line A and from line B the distance given in the table
under dot 3 according to length of sleeve.
Length of Sleeve i3- I 4 IS-16 17-18 1920

Dot 3 \% *H 1% 2

Dot 5 1% 1% 2 2 A
T

Dot 7 2 / l
2 3 1% 4

Dot 12 1% i# i3 A i#
Drait line (J tiom uut 2. u Uol: 3- t- Measure up line A
from line g 1 inch more than the measure from elbow to waist
and place dot 4. Place dot 5 straight out from dot 4 the
distance given in the table under dot 5, according to the length
of sleeve. Place dot 6 straight out from dot 5-2 inches
more than of the measure around the arm below the el-
Y
bow. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line [) to dot
3. Place dot 7 on iine A an d above dot 4 the
measure from shoulder to elbow less the distance given in the
table under dot 7- Place dot 8~ r inch straight out
from dot 7- Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line p
to dot 5- Place dot 9 on line A an d from dot "J-x inch
more than the table gives for dot ~( Draft line p straight
out from dot 9- Place dot \Q straight out from dot 9
i)4 inches more than *4 of the measure around the arm below
the shoulder. Place dot \] on line p and from dot \0~Y of the
measure around the arm below the shoulder. Place dot
],2 straight down from dot 11 the distance given in the table for
dot 12. Place the O point of the curve on line F 1 inch
in from dot 10 and draft line G to dot 8. Place letter T
on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 12. Draft line I frcm
dot 12 to dot 6. Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line
J to dot 2- Allow for seams on lines D, E, I and S.
Cut on lines C, Q and H.
UNDER PART OF CHILD'S SLEEVE.
Draft line A
}4-inch from the edge of cloth. Draft
line B straight out from the lower end of line A. Place
dot 1 on line B and from line inch more than AY
of meas- Y
ure around the hand. Place dot 2 on line and from A
line B the distance given in the table for dot 2 according to the
Length of Sleeve 13 r 4 15 16 17 18 1920

Dot 2 1 1)4 *# i#
" 4 * % H 1 "#
" 6 2Y-2 3 3^ 4
length of sleeve. Place the corner of square on dot 2
the edge on dot 1 and draft line C out inch less than of % %
the hand measure. Place dot 3 on line A and from line
B 24 inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist.
Place dot 4 straight out from dot 3 the distance given in the
table under dot 4, according to length of sleeve. Place
dot 5 straight out from dot 4-}4 of the measure around the
arm below the elbow. Place letter on dot 4 and draft M
line D to dot 2. Place dot Q on line and above dot 3 A
the measure from shoulder to elbow less the distance given in
Measure for Practice, 8 Years.
the table under dot 6 according to length of sleeve. Place
Shoulder to Elbow M
on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 4. Place dot 7
Elbow
AxoTJiird
to W rist

Ami below Shoulder

....
.
7 A
l
letter
on line A and from dot 3 the distance between dots 6 and 12 in
the upper part of sleeve. Place dot 8 straight out from
* '_" " Elbow dot 7-^ of the measure around the arm below the shoulder.
A'fOund'Hand . Place letter K on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 8- Dra ft
line G from dot 8 to dot 5. Place letter on dot 5 and M
draft line H to the end of line Q- Allow seams on line
D, E, G-, and H- Cut on lines C and F.
 LADIES' SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE.
Draft lines A and B 1 inch from the end and edge of goods.
Place dot 2 n line B the measure around the hand Place
dot 3 line A 2 inches from line B Place the corner of
square on dot 3 the edge on dot 2 and draft line C out 3
inches more than the hand measure. Place dot 4 on line
A one inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist from
line B-
Place dot 5 2 inches straight out from dot 4
Place dot 7 on line A 5 inches less than the measure from
shoulder to elbow Place letter U on dot 5 and draft
line D to dot 3. Place letter P on dot 7 and draft to
dot 5. Draft line E straight out from dot 7 twice
the measure around the arm below the shoulder. Place
dot 8 -3 inches in from the end of line E. Place dot 9 on
line E Yz the distance between dots 7 and 8. Place dot
10 one inch straight down from dot 9. Hold the end
of tape line on dot 10 and draft curve line F from dot 8 to dot 7
Draft line G straight down from the end of line E.
Place dot H on line G 6 inches below line E- Place
letter T on dot II and draft to dot 8. Place dot 12 on
on line G y2 the distance between the shoulder and elbow from
dot II Place dot 13 7 y inches straight in from dot |2.
Place letter G on dot |3 and daaft line H
to dot || Place
letter R on dot 13 and extend line H. to the end of line C.
Allow for seams on lines B and M Cut on lines C and F.
'

SHIRT SLEEVE.
Use the fold of goods for line A. Draft line B % inch
from lower end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line B and from
the fold of the goods 1 inch more than
measure.
% of the arm's eye
Measure 3 inches straight up from dot 2 and
place dot 3. Place letter P on dot 3 and draft line C
to the lower end of line B. Place dot 4 on the fold of
goods the length of sleeve measure above line B. Draft
line D straight out from dot 4-i inch
more than y2 of
the measure around the hand. Draft line E from dot
3 to the end of line D. Lines D and C are cutting
line? Allow y2 inch seam on line E.

Sleeve Instructions.
Notch the lining at the elbow (at dots 5 an ^ 6) baste the
back seam, begining at the top and baste to the elbow; then
begin at the bottom and baste smooth up to within 1% inches
of the elbow, run a gathering thread in the fullness and finish
basting seam and press open. Pin material on the lining smooth
from wrist to elbow, the seam of the lining next to the goods.
Pin the remainder in the traced lines, having the edge of goods
and lining even. Now baste in the traced lines. To join the
seams see that the notches at dot 5 meet. P in in the traced
lines, up and down from the notches, then baste. To stitch,
have the under arm part next to the feed seaming one up and
the other down. Notch the seam 3 inches below dot 5- and 3
and 6 inches above round off the notch and bind or overhand
;

remove the bastings and press. Face the bottom of sleeve the
same as the waist. Gather the outside material, beginning 2
inches from the front seam and gather around to within one
inch of dot 4> placing the most fullness on and in front of the
|

shoulder; place the sleeve in, pining the seam 1% to 2 inches

in front of the under arm seam in the waist. See that it i on
a direct bias from the point of the last dart. Pin the under arm
part smoth, place the most fullness in front of the point of the
shoulder, down to within 3 inches of the front seam, Sew with
the arm holes towards yov, so as to get an even seam. It is
always best to sew the seam in by hand, with a firm back stitch
using twist or strong silk; trim off the seam and over-hand
hand. Shields should be tacked lightly though the tape that
binds them in placing in the arm hole (never place the needle
through the rubber).
 CLOAK.
Center Back.
Draft lines A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods. Place
dot 2 on line A the distance given in the neck table under dot 2.

Size of % % >/ v% n % # * # U ^
Neck 7 8 9 IO ir 12 M 14 i.S 16 17 18
i# *x 1% iU i% 2 2^ 2^ 23/6 2^ 2^ *#
Place dot 3 on line B the distance given in the neck table under dot 3.
Place point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Place dot 4 on
line A the length of back measure below dot 2. Draft line D straight out
from dot 4. Place dot 5 one inch from dot 4 on line D. Place dot 6
the distance from dot 5 that the table gives for the width of center back.
Draft line E beginning 4 four inches below line B and drafting one inch
below dot 5. Place dot 7-2 inches straight in from the end of line E.
Draft line F from the end of line E to dot 7. Draft line Q straight down
from dot 7. Place dot 9 on line B 6%. inches from dot 3. Place dot
10-3^ inches straight down from dot 9. Place letter A on dot 3 edge of
curve on dot 10 and draft line H yz inch less than the proportionate
shoulder measure without moving the curve place dot 1 1 on line H Yz inch
less than the actual shoulder measure. Place dot 12-2}^ inches straight
down from the end of line H. Place dot 13-% inch in from dot 12.
Place point of curve on dot 1 1 and draft line J to dot 13. Place letter P
on dot 13 and draft line K extending one inch below dot 6.

Side Body.
Place the long edge of square even with line A in the back drafting the
short arm on dot 12 and draft line N straight out from dot 12. Place dot
2 on line N 3 inches from dot 12. Place dot 3 on line D 3 inches from
dot 6. Place letter P on dot 2 and draft line A extending one inch below
dot 3. Place dot 4 on line D and from dot 3 the distance given in the
table for the width of side body. Place dot 5 on line N one inch from
dot 2. Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line B to dot 5. Place dot 6
on line B 13/ inches from dot 5. Place point of curve on dot 2 and draft
line C to dot 6. Place dot 7 on line D yz inch out from dot 4. Place
dot 8-5 inches straight down from dot 7. Place letter A on dot 4 and
draft line E to dot 8. Draft line L from the end of line A to the end of
line K in back.

Under Arm Shape.

Place dot 2 on line D 3 inches from dot 4 (in side body). Place dot 3
on line D /z l
inch more than the table gives for the width of under-arm from
dot 2. Place the corner of square on dot 2 the short arm even with line

D and measure straight up the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side

body and place dot 4. Place dot 5-3/ inch straight out from dot 4.
Place dot 6 straight out from dot 4 the distance between dots 2 and 3.
Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and measure up from
dot 3 one inch less than the under arm measure and place dot 7. Place
letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. Place letter W on dot 7 and
draft line B to dot 3. Place point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to

dot 7. Place dot 8 on line Dr.?/ inches in from dot 2. Place dot

9-5 inches straight down from dot 8. Place letter A on dot 2 and draft
line E to dot 9. Place dot 10 on line D \% inches out from dot 3.
Place dot 1 1 -5 inches straight down from dot 10. Place letter A on dot
3 and draft line F to dot II.
 CLOA^-No. 1.

Draft line /V 3 inches from edge of cloth. Draft line B
lj4 inches from the end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line A the
distance given in the neck table for dot 2

2o 3 "B NECK TABLE.

2/
22 "
Q_---
-'
D 2*|2#|2# 2/ 3 3K|3% 33/| 4 4/|4/|4 3/4
t 3\
\ \o'_ _ - Neck Size 7 8 9 IO 1 12 J
3 14 i5 16 17 18

\ \2 ^jti^^ Dot 3 2ji 3 3/s 3X 3/8 3/ 3/8 3/ 3/8 4 4;^ 4X

\ ?5T I5T^
* + Place dot 3 on nne -B the distance given in the neck table
7
r for dot 3- Place dot 4
on line A 6 inehes more than half
23.
]
k</ +
of the arms eye measure below line B. Place dot 5 3 inches
above dot 4 on line A- Place the corner of square on dot
V
y^
j.

5 and draft line D straight out beginning 7 inches from dot 5-

6 .

Place dot 6 on li ne D at the front bust number from dot 5 see

+ table for distance. Place dot 7 straight down from dot 6 1 inch
less than the under arm measure. Place dot 8 on line -A. the
-t-

Y 9-
+
length of front measure below dot 2-
8 and draft line F to dot J.
Place letter H on dot
Place dot Q straight in from
+ dot 7 te width of the first dart. Place letter on dot 9 A
+ and draft line to dot 6- Place dot 6 2 inches straight|

H- out from dot 9-
Place dot |7 5 inches straight down
k__
/& / ^_T^ >*
from dot | Q.
to dot 7-
I
Place letter
Place dot 25
A
on dot 9 and draft -line
%
inch out from dot 2-
E
-I.

5" Place dot 26 X inch in from dot 2-

Ai + Draft lines J & (J to meet line A
5 inches below dot 2.
+ Place point of curve on dot 2 and draft line Q to dot3
+ Place dot 20 on ^ ne -B 6^4 inches from dot 3- Place dot
/?
/
* .

2 I
1/
inches straight down from dot 20- Place letter A
on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 2 and draft line Q y2 inch
I

less than the proportionate shoulder measure. See table.

Without moving the curve place dot 22 / inch less than the
actual shoulder measure on line Q.

Draft line ft straight up
from the end of line Q to line D- Place dot 23 on nne R
2 inches above line D- Place dot 24 2 inches straight in
from dot 23- Place letter Q on dot 24 an(l draft line $ to
dot 6- Place letter K on dot 24 anc^ continue line $to dot 22
Draft line }f/ from dot 26 to the edge of goods.

CLOAK-No. 2.
Draft line A. 4^ inches from edge of cloth. Draft lina
B one inch from the end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line A.
the distance given in the neck table for dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2 2/ 2^ 2/ 2% 3 3/ 3/ 3/ 4 4/ 4/ 4/
Neck Size 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 f
7 18

Dot 3 2]/8 3 3/8 3/ 3/8 3/ 3/ 3/ 3/8 4 4/8 4^

Place dot 3 n line line B the distance given in the nec^
table for dot 3- Place dot 4 on line A 6 inches more than
Yz of the arms eye measure below line B, Place dot 5 on
line A
3 inches above dot 4- Place the corner of square on
on dot 5 and draft line Q straight out beginning 7 inches from
dot 5 Place dot 6 at the bust number on line See D
table for distance Place dot ~] one inch less than the under
arm measure straight down from dot 6- Place dot 8 on line
/\ the length of front measure below dot 2- Place letter ||
on dot 8 and draft line p to dot 7. Place dot 9 / the
width of the first dart in from dot 7 on line p. Place letter
A on dot 9 and draft line to dot Q. Measure down line E
from dot 61/ inches and place dot Place the corner of
|
'

square on clot 4 the edge on dot Q and draft line Q out 3 in-
|

ches beginning 3 inches from dot 4- Place dot on line Q | |

half way between dots 4 and Q j |

Place the short arm o
.
 J . .

square even with line the corner on dot(j | and place dot |2 |

on line F at the Place dots 3 and 4 each

edge of square. | |

side of dot | 2 %
of the first dart. Place the 2 inch mark
on dot I 4 and draft line | to dot | | Reverse the curye
and draft line || Place the short arm of square even with
.

line Q the edge on dot | 3 and draft line J. Draft line K in

like manner.- Place dot 6 2 inches straight out from dot
9 place dot | 7
5 inches straight down from dot |g.
|

Place etter A
on dot 9 and draft line |V| to dot \~]
r
Place
dot 20 n line B
6y2 inches from dot 3. Place dot 2 I x /4
inches straight down from dot 20- Place letter. A on dot 3
edge of curve on dot 2 and draft line Q 2 inch less than the
I y
proportionate shoulder measure. Without moving the curve
place dot 22 on line Qy
2 inch less than the actual length of
shoulder. Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q
to line [) Place dot 23 online R 2 inches above line ).
Place dot 24
2 inches straight in from dot 23- Place let-
ter D on dot 24 and draft line $ to dot 6- Place letter K on
dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22- Place dot 25 i ncn
%
inch out from dot 2 Place dot 26'
inch in from dot 2- %
Draft lines f and (j to meet line A 4 inches down from dot 2-
Place the point of curve on dot 25 an d draft line to dot 3- C
(use round point) Place dot 27 on line B 2 inches in from
line J\. Draft line V from dot 27 to dot 26- Place
letter p on dot 27 and draft line }ff to meet the edge of goods 7
inches below line B.
CLOAKS-No. 3.
Draft line /\ 6^ inches from the edge of goods. Draft
line B *y inches from the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line
A the distance given in the Neek Table for dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2 2% 2^8 2% 2^ 3 3% s% 3% 4 4% 4% 4&
Neck Size 8 10 11 12 i4 16 18
7. 9 13 IS 17
Place letter D
on dot 24 and draft line
Dot 3
3 to the end of line |j. Flace letter K on dot 2^8 3 sy 3% 3 A 3/2
3
3 S/8 3H 3Vs 4 4/8 4^8
24 and extend line S t dot 22- Place dot Place dot 3 n line B the distance given in the Neck Table
25 Y? inch from dot 2. Place point of curve

on dot 25 use the round edge and draft
for dot 3- Place dot 4 on line A 6 inches more than of arm's y
eye measure below line B. Place dot 5 on line A 3 inches above
lineQ to dot 3 Draft line J to meet line

dot 4 Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D

A 6 inches below dot 2- Place dot 27 inch y straight out beginning 7 inches from dot 5- Place dot 6 at
straight out from dot 8- Place letter S on
the Bust No. on line [) See table for distance Place dot 7
line A i% inches below dot 5 and draft line one inch less than the length of under arm straight down from
U to dot 27. Place letter $ on dot 27 and dot 6 Place dot 8 n line A. the length of front measure
extend line \} to meet line A 8 inches below below dot 2- Place letter \\ on dot 8 and draft line p to dot "].
dot 8- Place dot 28 1% inches straight in Place dot 9 straight in from dot "J the width of both darts, %
from dot 2. Place dot 29 1 %inches
Place dot on line p half way between dots ~] and 8 Place
straight in from dot 5-
j
Place dot 30
dot on line p y of the remainder of darts in from dot |

inches straight in from dot 8- Place dot 3 I I

I
Place dot 2 the other half of the remainder of darts out from
ify inches straight in from the junction of
j

linesA & U- Place letter S on dot 28 and

dot 0-
I
Place dot 3 % inch straight up from dot 9-
|

draft line Y to dot 29. Place letter $ on dot

Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line extending y2 inch
|

above dot 6- Place dot 4 n line E one inch below dot

29 and continue line V to dot 30- Place Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot
j

g.
letter 2 on dot 30 and draft to dot 3 | .

4 and draft line (j out 3 inches beginning 3 inches from dot 4

Place dot 32 4/4 inches in from dot 28. I

Place dot 5 n line Q straight up from dot" 0- Place

Draft line W from dot 28 to dot 32- Place
the y
|

inch mark on dot and draft line \\ to dot 5-

|

dot 33 4/^ inches straight in from dot 29.
Reverse the curve and draft line | from dot 2 to dot 5-
| | |

Place dot 34 2 V^ inches straight in from

| |

Draft lines J & K from dots & 2 so as to meet 15 inches

dot 30-
Place dot 35 3 inches straight in
below dot 0- Draft line L from dot 2 to dot 3. Place dot
J | |

from dot 3 I Draft line X from dot 32 to

dot 33. Place letter \ on dot 34 and draft I
I

g 2 inches straight out from dot 3- Place dot ~]

|
| |

|

5 inches straight down from dot g. Place letter A on dot 3 | j
to dot 33- Place letter $ on dot 34 and Place dot 20 on line B 6y inches
draft to dot 35. Draft line Y from dot 3
and draft line to dot ~J M | .

from dot 3 Place dot 2
J >^ inches down from dot 20
I
to dot 35.
Place letter A on dot 3 edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line
Q y inch less than the proportionate shoulder measura.
Without moving the curve place dot 22 y inch less than actual
shoulder measure. Draft line R straight down from the end
of line Q
to line Q. Place dot 23 on line R 2 inches above
line I). Place dot 24 2 inches straight in from dot 23.
 -
GIRLS CLOAKS.-Front.
Draft line A 2 % inches from the edge of cloth.
Draft line B 1 inch from the end of cloth,
Place dot 2 n line A the distance given in the neck table for
dot 2 NECK TABLE.
Dot 2 2% 2~y2 2% 3 3% 3%
Neck Size 7 8 9 IO 11 12 J
3

Dot 3 2 5/8 2 3/ 2j4s 3 3 A 3%

l
3/8
Place dot 3 n nne B the distance given in the necK table for
for dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 2 and drafr
line Q to dot 3- Place dot 5 n line A 3 inches more
than / of the arms eye measure below line B. Draft line
Q straight out beginning 4 inches from dot 5- Place dot
5 on line Q one inch more than the table gives for the Bust
number. Place dot "J one inch less than the length of under arm
measure straight down from dot Q. Place dot 8 the length of
front measure below dot 2 on line A. Draf line F from dot 8
dot 7- Place dot 9 on line F one inch more than the table
gives for front waist number from dot 8- Place the }4 inch
mark on doi 9 and draft line to dot 6- Place dot 6
9,
^> 3 one inch straight out from dot 9- Place dot |7 five inches
|

S^/ "c
straight down from dot |6- Place the / inch mark on dot
9 and draft line M
to dot |7- Place dot 20 on line B
6/ inches from dot 3- Place dot 21 1/ inches straight
/<2 down from dot 20- Place letter A on dot 3 edge of curve
37 on dot 2 and draft line Q % inch less than the proportionate
I

shoulder measure. Draft line R straight down from the

end of line Q to line D. Place dot 23 on nne R 1 Y inches
above line D Place dot 24 ' i ncn straight in form dot
23' Place letter C on dot 24 an d draft line $ to meet line D
one-half inch from dot 6 Place letter K on dot 24 an d
extend line $ to the end of line Q. Place dot 25 on ^ ne
B one-inch in from line A-
Place the point of the curve on line C two inches below dot 3
and draft line J extending one-half inch from dot 25-
Place the point of curve on the end of line J and draft to meet
the edge of goods 3/ inches down.

Draft lines A and

BACK.
B one-inch from the edge and end of goods.
Place dot 2 on line A the distance given in the neck table for
dot 2- NECK TABLE.
D Y Y % n 3
/8 % %
Neck Size 7 8 9 10 II 12 13

Dot 3 i/s *Y 1S/8

13/ 1% 2 2^
U NDERAR JVI. Place dot 3 on line B
the distance given in the neck table for
Place the long arm of square even with dot 3- Place point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C. to
line A- The short arm on dot |2 and dot 3- Place dot 4 n line A
the length of back measure
draft line N straight out from dot |2- below dot 2- Draft line D straight out. Place dot 5
Place dot 2 on line H3 inches from
on line D Y\ inch from dot 4. Place dot 6 on line D one-
dot |2. Place dot 3 on line D
3 inches
half inch less then one-half of the combined width of centre
faom dot 6- Place letter Q_ on dot 2 back, side form and under arm shape, from dot 5
and draft line A extending /
inch below Draft line beginning 3 inches below dot 2 and extend 3/
dot 3- Draft from end of line A to end inch below dot 5-
Place dot 7 T % inches straight in from the end of line .
of line K in back. Place dot 4 on line
inch more than one-half the combined
DY Draft line F from the end of line to dot "J. Draft
width of center back side form and under line G straight straight down from dot 7. Place dot 9 on
arm shape form dot 3. Place dot 5 line B 6/4 inches from dot 3- Place dot |0 3 lA inches
on line N the width of the under arm straight down from dot 9- Place letter on dot 3 the A
shape as given in the table. Place edge of curve on dot |Q and draft line ]\ one-half inch less than
the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on the proportionate shoulder measure. Place dot |2 straight
dot 5 and measure up from dot 4 one down from the end of line \\ the distance given in the table
inch less than the length of under arm according to arms eye measure.
measure and place dot g.
Place letter M on dot 6 and draft Arms Eye. 7 8 9 10 11 12 1
13
line B to dot 4, Place the Dot |2 2% 2/ 3Y
X point of the 3 3Ya
curve on dot 2 and draft line O
to dot 6
Place letter K on dot |2 and draft line J to the end of line ||.
Place dot "J one-half inch out from dot 4.
Place dot 8 five inches straight down Place letter Q on dot |2 and draft line K extending inch /
from dot 7. Place letter R on dot
below dot 6.
4 and draft line to dot 8-
E
 . .

COAT COLLAR.
Draft dress lines A & B. Place dot 2on line A i inch more
than y2 of neck measure from line g. Place dot 3 on line g
3 inchas from line A, Place letter Q on dot 3 and draft line
C to dot 2 Place dot \ on line A K inch from dot 2.

Place dot 5 2 inches straight out from dot 4. Draft line
D from dot 2 to dot 5, Place dot 6 on line g 3^ inches
from dot 3. Place dot ~] iy2 in. straight down from dot
6,
Place letter M
on dot 5 and draft line \ to dot 7,
Place letter N on dot 7 and draft line
f to dot 3.

SAILOR COLLAR.
Draft line A 1 inch from the edge of cloth. Draft
line B 5 inches up from the lower end of cloth. Place
dot 2 on line A the distance from line B given in the front
neck table for dot 2 "according to size of neck." Place
dot 3 on line B the distance given in the front neck '

table for dot 3. Extend line A down 2 inches from

line B. Measure 2 inches straight out from the end
of line A and place dot 4. Place the corner of the
square on the junction of lines A and B, the edge on dot 4, and
draft line out 6^2 inches. Place letter C on dot 2
and draft line D through dot 3 extending to line C.
Place the edge of square even with line C and draft line E out
4^ inches from the end of line C. Place dot 5-3 inches
above dot 2. Draft line F straight out about 5 inches.
Place letter Fi^
inches down from the end of line F and draft
line G from the end of line F to the end of line E. The
dotted lines show the different ways of shaping the collar. The
neck and shoulder measure is all that is required. Place
line C on the fold of the goods and there will be no seam.
This collar makes a very n ce square or round yoke.
:

MEDICI COLLAR.
Draft lines A & B. Place dot 2 on line A
Yz of neck measure from line g.
Place dot 3 on line B 4 inches from line
A, Place dot 4 online
B 4 inches from dot 3. Place letter f on dot 4 and draft line
Q to dot 3, Place dot 5 on line & Yi oi the neck measure from
line B. Place dot Q
2y2 inches straight out from dot 5.
Place letter Y on
dot 2 and draft line Q to dot 6- Place letter Y on dot 6 and
extend line Q to dot 3. Place dot 7 on line A 1 % inches
from dot 2. Place dot 83 inches straight out from dot 7
Place point of curve on dot 2 and draft line
E to dot 8
Place the X point of the curve on dot ft and extend line F to
dot 4.

STANDING COLLAR.
Draft line A % inch from the edge of cloth. Draft line
B zH inches straight out from the lower end of line A
and place
dot 2. Measure up line A from line B /z of the measure
Y

around the neck of the dress and place dot 3. Draft line
C 3}i inches straight out from dot 3. Place dot 4 on line
C 2 inches from dot 3. Draft line D from the end of line
C to dot 2. Place dot 5 on line B 1^ inches from dot 2.
Place dot 6 on line D % inch from dot 2. Draft
line E from dot 5 to dot 6. Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft
line F to dot 4. Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line G
to dot 3.

These Collars are drafted on the right bias of the Goods.

 A Lk-
S> d\
3-u.
No. 407.
FRONT.
Use the fold of the goods for the centre of the front. Draft line
B straight out from the end of goods. Place dot 2 on the fold
'St
? of the goods \ inch below line B. Place dot 3 on hne : B -

inchca lnnm thin \ of the waist measure from the fold oh,
goods. Place dot 4
i inch in from dot 3. Place letter Qf

a
on dot 2 and draft line C
to dot 4. Place dot 5 on line x B
/ ?
inch out from dot 3. Place dot 6-9 inches straight down from
c y
v
dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot
I
<
6 and draft line J) down 1^ inches more than skirt measure.
1
/_r
/ -*-
Place letter R on dot 4
and draft line to dot 6. E Place dot
/ 'a i 7 on the fold of goods 1 inch more than skirt measure from dot
1 s: &
2. Draft line E
straight out from dot 7. Place the end of
the tape line on dot 4
and draft a curved line from the end of
/
1 *
/J'V
^^ <*

V j <,
line D to meet line E.
/ d > FIRST SIDE PANEL.
Use the edge of the goods for line A. Draft line \ inch B
CM from the end of goods. Place dot 2 n l \ line B
inches from
the edge of goods. Place dot 3 on line B
and from dot 2~\
9 of the waist measure. Place dot 4
| inch in from dot 3.
2nd PANEL. FRONT. Place letter Hon dot 4
and draft line to dot 2- C Place dot
5 on line B
4 inches straight out from dot 3- Place dot 6
9 inches straight down from dot 5. Place the corner of square
on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and draft line B
2 inches more than
the length of the skirt. Place letter R, on dot and draft line 4
E to dot 6. Place letter Q- on dot 2 and draft line to E
meet the edge of goods 9 inches from line B. Place dot 7 on
the edge of goods down from line !
B
f inches more than the
4
skirt measure. Measure straight down from dot 2 inches

more than the length of the skirt and place dot 8. Draft line
G- from dot 7 to dot 8. Place the end of tape line on dot 4
and draft a curved line from dot 8 to the end of line D,
second side panel
Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line \ inch from B
the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line B
one inch from the
edge of goods. Place letter Q- on dot 2 and draft a curved
line to meet the edge of goods 9 inches below line B. Place
dot 3 n line B
and from dot 2 \ f the waist measure.
Place dot 4
on line B
3l inches out from dot 3. Place
dot 5 9 inches straight down from dot 4. Place the corner
of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 5 and draft line 2 inches C
more than the skirt measure. Place dot Q on line \ inch in B
from dot 3. Place letter H
n dot Q and draft a curved line
side panel.
to dot 5. Place dot 7 on line 2 C
inch below dot 6.
1st
Place letter H
on dot 7 and draft line to dot 2. D Meas-
ure down the edge of goods from line B
2 inches more than the
length of skirt and place dot 8. Measure straight down from
dot 3 2 inches more than the length of the skirt measure and
place dot 9 Draft line E
from dot 8 to dot 9 Place the
end of tape line on dot 3 and draft a curved line from dot 9 to
the end of line Q
BACK
Use the edge of goods for line A
Draft line 2 inch from B
the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line B
4 inches from the
edge of goods. Place dot 3 on line B
I of the waist measure
from dot 2 Place dot 4
\ inch straight down from dot 3
Draft line C
from dot 4
to dot 2 Draft line B
from dot 2 so
as to meet the edge of goods 2 inches more than the skirt length.
Measure straight down from dot 4
2 inches more than the skirt
length and place dot 5 Place the corner of the square on the
end of line B-the edge on dot 5 and draft line E
out 2 4 inches.
Draft line E
from dot 4
to the end of line E
Measure down
line E from dot 4
2 \ inches more than the skirt length and
place dot 6 Place dot 7 one inch straight out from dot 3
Place end of tape line on dot 7 and draft curved line to dot 5 C
The French way to finish the lining of the skirt is to turn back
the lining and stitch the material separately and press. Then
place one side of the lining flat over the seam and tack with a 1 \
inch stitch, then turn edge of the opposite lining in \ inch and
fell down.
 No. 400.
USE FRONT OF 407.

Use the edge of goods for line A. (Draft line B straight

acrolein, end of goods. Place dot 2 on) line A 2j^ inches be-
low line B. Place dot 3 on line B, }4less than y
of waist
measure. Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2.
Place dot 4 on line C one inch from dot 2. Place dot 5, y& of
waist measure from dot 4, Place dot 6, i j4 inches from dot 5.
Place dot 7, 3^ inches straight down from dot 6. Place letter
A on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 7. Reverse the curve and
draft line E. Place letter M on dot 4 and draft to meet the
edge of goods 9 inches down from dot 2. Measure down the
fold of goods 1^ inches more than the skirt length and
place dot 8. Draft line F straight out from dot 8-2 inches
more than }4 of waist measure. Place dot 9- 1 inch straight up
from the end of line F. Draft line G from dot 8 to dot 9.
Place dot 10 on line B 8 inches from dot 3. Place dot 11-9 in-
ches straight down from dot 10. Place the corner of square on
dot 3 the edge on dot 11 and draft line H 2^ inches more than
the skirt- length from dot 3. Hold the end of tape line on dot
3 and draft from the end of line H to dot 9.
Cut on drafted lines, yx inch is allowed for seams.

BACK.
Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B y2 inch from
// 3 2TS
the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line B 10 inches from edge
Ai '
^ \\ * of goods. Place dot 3 on line B % of waist measure from dot

p 2. Place dot 4 on line B 2 inches out from dot 3. Place
u
/ 1

U
Y* -
H dot 5-9 inches straight down from dot 4. Place the corner of

o
> fa
square on dot 3 the edge on dot 5 and draft line C 2% inches
more than the length of skirt measure. Measure down from
3,v /I
dot 2 so as to meet the edge of goods 2% inches more than the
-
U\^
-1
f l/>

*-/ ir

Place the end of the tape line on line B y^ the

f
ou/ '
skirt measure.
distance between dots 2 and 3 and draft a curved line from the
It
<
P- \
\
end of line C to the end of line of D.
I ft-
?
f The French way to finish the lining of the skirt is to turn back
1 *
^ \
the lining and stitch the material separately and press. Then
j
1
t.

^
\\ l

.\
place one side of the lining flat over the seam and tack with a
// *A A ij<2 inch stitch, then turn the edge of the opposite lining in y 2
VvA inch and fell down.

v\
No. 75.
USE THE FRONT OF NO. 407.

Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B y, inch from
the edge of goods. Place dot 2 on the edge of goods 8$4 inches
from line B. Place dot 3 on line B 4 inches more than y
of
waist measure from line A. Place dot 4 on line B half way be-
tween line A and dot 3. Place dot 5 on line B y
the waist
measure from line A. Draft line C 4 inches straight out from
dot 2. Measure down the edge of goods from dot 2- 1 }4 inches
more than the skirt length and place dot 6. Draft line D 8 in-
ches straight out from dot 6. Place dot 7 on line C one inch
from dot 2. Place letter U on dot 7 and draft to meet the edge
of goods 9 inches below dot 2. Place dot 8-2 inches straight
out from the end of line C. Place dot 9-4 inches straight
down from dot 8. Draft lines E &
F from the end of line C
and dot 8 to dot 9, use the y inch mark. Place dot 10-6 inches
straight down from dot 5. Place letter H on dot 10 and draft
to dot 8. Place letter V on dot 10 and draft to dot 3- Place
dot 11 on line B 9 inches from dot 3. Place dot 12-5 inches
straight down from dot 11. Place the corner of square on dot
3 the edge on dot 12 and draft line Q. Place dot 13 on line Q
3y inches more -than the skirt length from dot 3. Hold end
of tape line on dot 4 and draft a curved line from dot 13 to the
end of line D.
 TAILOR BICYCLE SKIRT.
FRONT.
Use the fold of goods for the center of front.
Draft line B y inch from the end of goods. Place dot 2 on
the fold of goods, yinch below line B. Place dot 3 on line B,
Yi of the waist measure from line A. Place letter
,
H
on dot 3,
and draft line C to dot 2. Measure down the fold of goods the
length of skirt, and place dot 4. Draft line D
straight out 12
inches, from dot 4 Draft line E from dot 3 to the end of line
D. Measure down line E from dot 3 the length of skirt, and
place dot 5. Place letter R on dot 5, and draft line F to meet
line D 3 inches from the fold of goods.
SIDE.
Use the edge of goods for line A.
Draft line B % inch from the end of goods. Place dot 2 on
line y
A, x inch below line B. Place dot 3 on line B y, of waist
measure from line A. Place letter Hon dot 3 and draft line C
to dot 2. Measure down the fold of goods the length of skirt
measure, and place dot 4. Draft line D straight out 12 inches
from dot *4. Draft line E from dot 3 to the end of line D.
Measure down line E the length of skirt measure, and place dot
5- Place letter R on dot 5 and draft line F to meet line D 3
inches from dot 4.
BACK.
Use the edge ofgoods for line A.
Draft line B y inch from the end of goods and out 20 inches.
Place dot 2 on line B y inch from line A. Place letter on M
dot 2, and draft line C to meet line A 6 inches from line B.
Measure down line B from line A the length of skirt, and place
dot 3. Draft line D 20 inches straight out from dot 3? Draft
line E from the end of line B to the end of line D.

A good way to finish this skirt is to stitch the seams on the

right side of the goods, and cover with the band of cloth or braid.
This will make the skirt reversible.

BICYCLE BLOOMERS.
Use the fold of goods for line A.
Use the end of goods for line B.
Place dot 2 on the fold of goods 2 inches below line B.
Place dot 3-1 % inches straight out from dot 2. Place dot 4 on
line B 2 inches more than y 2 of waist measure from line A.
Place dot 5 on line A 9 inches below dot 2. Place letter M on
dot 3 and draft line D to dot 5. Place dot 6 on line A the dis-
tance of outside leg measure from dot 2. Place dot 7 on line A
one inch less than y2 of the outside leg measure below dot 2.
Place the short arm of square even with line A, the corner on dot
7, and draft line E straight out beginning 12 inches from dot 7.
Place dot 8 on line E-3 inches more than y^ of the hip measure
from dot 7. Place dot 9 on line E 3^ inches in front of dot 8.
Place dot 10 on line E 5 inches in from dot 8. Place dot 1 1 on
line E 5^ inches in from dot 8. Place dot 12-7 inches straight
up from dot 9. Place dot 13-8 inches straight up from dot 11.
Place dot 14 on line B one inch out from dot 4. Draft line C
from dot 14 to dot 2. Draft line F from dot 14 to dot 12.
Place letter H on dot 8 and draft to dot 12. Place the point of
curve on dot 4 and draft line O to dot 13. Place letter K (on
the curve) y, inch in from dot 8 and draft to dot 13. Measure
7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot I5 Place
dot 16- 5 inches more than the measure around the ankle straight
out from dot 6. Place letter Q on dot 8, and draft line H to
dot 15. Place letter O on dot 15. and extend line H one inch
below dot 16. Draft line 1 from the end of line Q to dot 6.
MEASUREWaist, - - 24 Hips, - - - - 38
Outside ~L<t% Measure - 37 Ankle 9*A
 1

DIVIDED SKIRT.
Front.
Use the fold of goods for line A. Draft line B }4 inch from

& the end of goods, out 15 inches. Place dot 2 on the fold of
r

w.+.<*A
goods 1 % inches down from line B. Place dot 3 on line B> 5
inches less than % of the waist measure from line A. Place
letter F on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure down the
fold of goods from dot 2 the length of skirt measure and place dot
4. Draft line D straight out from dot 4 about 15 inches.
Place dot 5 on line B 4 inches out from dot 3- Place dot ^-8
f
a- inches straight down from dot 5. Place the corner of square
on dot 3, the edge on dot 6, and draft line E, down one inch more
\^
than the skirt measure. Place dot 7 on line 84^ inches from
line A. Place dot &-% inch straight down from dot 7.
\ \ Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 2. Measure 1
&
inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot Q Place the
corner of square on dot 8, the edge on dot 9 and draft line Q down
14 inches and place dot 10. Place dot 11 on line E 15^ inches
from dot 3. Place the O point of curve on dot 10 and draft

To Locate Dot 12. line H to dot 11. Place dot 12 on line E 2 inches more than Yz

38 and 39 Two inches more than one-half the length of skirt down from dot " Hold the end of the tape
skirt length. line, on dot 3 and draft a curved line from the end of line F to
36 and 37 One inch more. meet line D 9 inches from dot 4. Hold the end of the tape
34 and 35 One-half skirt length-
line on the junction of lines A and B, and draft a curved line
32 and 33 One inch less.
from dot 12 to meet line D 9 inches from dot 4.

Back.
Use the fold of goods for line A. Draft line B straight out

Yz inch below the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line A 3^

_2 jL
inches below line B. Place dot 3 on the fold of goods 1 inch
more than the length of skirt measure below dot 2. Draft line
C out from dot 3 about 15 inches. Place dot 4 on line & 2>Y
inches less than Y> of waist measure from line A. Place dot 5
on line B 4 inches from line A. Place dot 6-2^ inches straight
down from dot 5. Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to
dot 6. Place letter T on dot 6 and draft line E to doj, 4.
Place dot 7 on line B 4 inches from dot 4. Place dot 8-8 inches
straight down from dot 7. Place the corner of square on dot
4, the edge on dot 8 and draft line F down one inch more than
the length of skirt measure. Measure down line F from dot 4-
x^Yi inches and place dot 9- Measure 9^ inches straight down
from dot 4 and place dot 10. Place letter K on dot 9 and draft
line Q to dot 10. Place letter S on dot 10 and continue line Q
to dot 6 Place the corner of square on dot 5, the edge on dot
9 and draft line H 2 inches more than Y* or the skirt measure
from dot 9- Place the end of tape line on the junction of lines
A and B, and draft curved line J from the end of line F to meet
line C 4 inches from dot 3. Place the end of tape line on dot
2, and draft a curved line K from the end of line H to meet line J.
 RIDING SKIRT.
No. I.
Use the edge of goods for line A.
t
Draft line B ]/
2 inch from
the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line A 5 inches down from
line B. Place dot 3 one inch straight out from dot 2. Place
dot 4 on line B ^
of the waist measure from line A. Place dot
5-4^ inches straight down from dot 4. Place letter F on dot
5, and draft line C to dot 3. Place dot 6 on line B 2^ inches
from dot 4. Place dot 7-3^ inches straight down from dot 6.
Place dot 8 on line B-i^ inches from dot 6. Place dot 9-13
inches straight down from dot 8. Place letter H on dot 5, and
draft line D to dot 9. Place letter U on dot 7, and draft line E
to dot 9. Place dot iO on line B ^
of waist measure from dot
6. Place the O point of curve on dot iO, and draft line F to
dot 7. Place dot n on line B 4^ inches from dot iO. Place
dot 12- 1 y2 inches straight down from dot 11. Draft line Q from
dot iO to dot 12. Place letter Jl on dot 3, and draft line H to
meet line A 9 inches below dot 2. Place dot 13 the length of
the skirt measure below dot 2 and on line A. Draft line I 20
inches straight out from dot 13. Draft line J from dot 12 to end
of line I.

No. 2.
Draft lines A and B y^ of an inch from the edge and end of
No. 1. goods. Place dot 2 on line A
3 inches below line B. Place
dot 3 on line A 4^ inches below dot 2. Place dot 4 one inch
straight out from dot 3. Place dot 5 on line A 3 inches below
dot 3. Place dot 6-10 inches straight out from dot 5. Place
letter H on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6. Place letter R on
dot 4 and draft line D to dot 6. Measure down line A from dot
Q) cQ 5 the length of skirt measure and place dot 7. Place dot 8 one
inch straight out from dot 7. Draft line E from dot 4 to dot 8.

Place dot 9 on line B 8 inches from line A. Place dot iO on

lineB 6^ inches from dot 9. Place dot 11- 12 inches straight
down from dot iO. Place dot 12 on line B6^ inches from dot
iO. Place dot 13 4 inches straight down from dot 12. Place
letter H on dot 9 and draft line F to dot 13. Place letter R on
dot 11 and draft line Q to dot 13. Place the corner of the
square on dot 1 1 , the edge on dot iO and draft line H straight
out. Place dot J 4 at line H 8}4 inches from dot 11. Place
dot J up from dot 14.
5-4 inches straight Place letter F on dot
11 and draft line I to meet line H 3^ inches from dot 11.
Place letter T on the end of line I and draft to dot 15. Place
dot 16 on line H 5^ inches from dot 14. Place dot 17-2 )4
inches straight up from dot 16. Place letter T on dot 17 and
draft line J to dot 15. Place dot 18 on line H 2% inches from
dot 16. Place dot 19-i,}4 inches straight down from dot 18.

Place letter F on dot 17 and continue line J to dot 19- Place

dot 20 on line H 3 inches from dot 18. Place dot 21 12 inches
less than the skirt measure straight down from dot 20. Con-
tinue line J from dot 19 to dot 21. Place the corner of the
No. 2. square on dot 21 and draft line K straight in 24 inches. Place
dot 22 on line K, 12 inches from dot 21. Place dot 23-7 inches
straight down from dot 22. Place dot 24- 10 inches straight
down from the end of line K. Place letter R on dot 21 and
draft to dot 23. Place letter R on dot 23, and draft to dot 24,
Place letter S on dot 24 and draft to dot 8.
 No. 3.
Use the edge of goods for line A.
Draft line B y
x inch from top of goods. Place dot 2 on the
edge of goods g inches below line B. Place dot 3 on line B 2 y
inch more than 1-12 of the waist measure from line A. Place
dot 4-7 inches straight down from dot 3. Place letter N on dot
2 and draft line C to dot 4. Place dot 5 on line B 3 inches from
dot 3. Place dot 6-4 inches straight down from dot 5. Place
dot 7 on line B 1-12 of the waist measure from dot 5. Place
dot 8-3 inches straight down from dot 7. Place letter K on dot
6 and draft line D to dot 8. Place dot 9 on line & 3}4 inches
from dot 7. Place dot 10 one inch straight down from dot 9.
Place letter K on dot 10 and draft line E to dot 11. Place a
dot on line B y2 the distance between dots 7 and 9, and measure
straight down nj^ inches and place dot 12. Place letter Q on
dot 4, and draft line F to dot 12. Place letter H on dot 6 and
draft line Q to dot 12. Place dot 13- 10 inches straight down
from dot 11. Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft line H to dot 13.

Place letter H on dot 10 and draft line I to dot 13. Place dot
14 on line B 3 14 inches from dot 11. Place dot 15-5^4 inches
straight down from dot 14. Place dot 16 on line B 10 inches
from dot 14. Place dot 17-14 inches straight down from dot 16.

Place letter R on dot 11 and draft line J to dot 15- Place letter
No. 3 R on dot 15 and continue line J to dot 17. Place dot 18-3J4
inches straight down from dot 17- Place dot 19-3^ inches
straight out from dot 18. Place letter N on dot 19 and draft to
dot 17- Place dot 20-5 inches straight down from dot 19.

Place dot 21-1^ inches straight out from dot 20. Place letter
J on dot 19 and draft to dot 21. Place dot 22-2 inches straight
out from dot 21. Place dot 23-11 inches less than the skirt
length straight down from dot 22. Continue line J from dot 21
to dot 22. Measure down the edge of goods from dot 2-2 inches
less than the skirt measure, and place dot 24. Place dot 25 on
the edge of goods 12 inches below dot 2. Place dot 26-4 inches
straight out from dot 25. Place letter S on dot 26 and draft
line K to dot 2. Place dot 27 on the edge of goods, 8 inches
below dot 25. Place dot 28-4 inches straight out from dot 27.
Place letter G on dot 26, and continue line K to dot 28. Con-
tinue line K from dot 28 to dot 24. Place dot 29-4 inches
straight down from dot 24. Draft line L from dot 29 to dot 23.
Place dot 30 on line L 12 inches from dot 26. Place dot 3I-4
POCKET. inches straight up from dot 30. Draft line M from dot 24 to
dot 31. Place dot 32 on line L 10 inches from dot 30. Place
dot 33-3 inches straight up from dot 32. Place letter S on dot
33 and continue line M to dot 31. Place letter R on dot 23, and
draft to dot 33.
 MISSES SKIRT.
Front-
use the fold of goods for Hue A. Draft line B straight

across the end of goods. Place dot 2 on. the fold of goods one
inch from line B. Place dot 3 on line B % of waist measure
from the fold of goods. Place letter R on dot 3 and draft line
C to dot 2. Measure down the fold of goods one inch more
than the skirt length and place dot 4. Measure 12 inches

straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Draft line E from dot
3 to dot 5. Measure down line E 1% inches more than the

skirt length and place dot 6. Place letter R on dot 6 and draft
line D to dot 4.

Side Panel.
Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B straight
across the end of the goods. Place dot 2 on the edge of goods

3 inches from line B. Place dot 3 on line B y2 of the waist

measure from the edge of goods. Place letter E on dot 2 and
draft line C to dot 3. Measure down the edge of goods ij^

inches more than the skirt length and place dot 4. Draft line
D straight out from dot 4- Place dot 5 on line D 6 inches from
dot 4. Place dot 6 on line D 8 inches from dot 5. Place dot
7 on line D 6 inches from dot 6. Place dot 8- 1 y2 inches straight
up from dot 6. Place dot 9-4 inches straight up from dot 7.

Place letter M on dot 5 and draft to dot 8. Place letter U on

dot 8 and draft to dot 9. Place dot 10 on line B 4 inches from
dot 3. Place dot 11-4^ inches straight down from dot 10.

Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 11 and draft
line F 2 inches more than the skirt length from dot 3. Place
letter S on the end of line F and draft to dot 9.

Back.
Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B straight
_S across the end of the goods. Place dot 2 on line B 4 inches
from the edge of goods. Place dot 3 on line B J^ of the waist
measure from dot 2. Draft line C from dot 2 to meet the edge
of goods 2 inches more than the skirt length. Measure
straight down from the center of line B 3 inches more than the
skirt length and place dot 4. '
Place letter G on the end of line

*
C and draft line D to dot 4. Place dot 5 on line B 2 inches
"D

from dot 3. Place dot 6-6 inches straight down from dot 5.
Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and draft
line H 2 inches more than the skirt length. Place letter H on
the end of line H and draft to dot 4.
 TROUSERS. Front-
Draft line /y 74 inch from the edge of goods. Draft line
B *4 inch from the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line A one
inch more than % of outside leg measure from line g. Place
dot 3 on li ne B 3 inches from line A. Place dot 4 on nne A
4^ inches below line B. Place dot 5 one inch straight out
from dot 4- Place letter Q on dot 3 an d draft line Q to dot 5
Place letter Q on dot 5 an d continue line Q to dot 2- Place
the corner of the sqnare on dot 2, the short arm even with line
A, and draft line Q out 5 inches beginning 8 inches from dot 2
Place dot g on line and from dot 2 2 inches more than 74. of
the hip measure. Measure down line A from line B the length
of outside leg measure and place dot 7. Place dot 8 on line
B % of waist measure from dot 3- Place dot 9 2 J4 inches
from dot 3 on line B- Place dot one inch from dot 9- |

Draft the dart so that the lines will meet 4 inches below the
center of the dart. Place dot on line Q 2 inches in from
| |

dot 6- Place dot 2 2 ^ inches straight up from dot

| | |

Place letter /I on dot 8 an d draft line E to dot 2- Place |

letter Q on dot 2, an d continue line E to dot Q. Place dot

I
|

3 6 inches straight down from dot Place dot 4 | | .

|

1 2 inches straight down from dot Place dot| 5 one

.
| |

straight in from dot 4 |

Place letter |) on dot 6 an <i draft
line F to dot |3, Place letter JJ on dot 3 and extend |

line p to dot 5- |
Place dot 6 272 inches less than |

the measure around the ankle straight out from dot 7

Continue line p from dot 5 extending }4 inch below dot
| 6 |

Place letter fj\ on the end of line p and draft line Q to dot 7'

TROUSERS.Back.
Draft lines A & B
72, inch from the edge and end of goods.

Place dot 2 on line A

3^ inches below line B- Place dot
3 on line B Vi of the waist measure from line Place A

letter ft on dot 2 and draft line Q to dot 3- Place dot 4 on

line T/
6 of the waist measure from dot 2-
C Place dot 5 on
line l
CY? inches from dot 4- Place dot g 8 inches straight
down from dot 3- Place the corner of square on dot 4> the
edge on dot 6 and draft line D down 4 inches. Draft line
from dot 5 to the end of line Q. Place dot "J on line A t}4
inches below dot 2- Place dot 8 r inches straight out K
from dot 7- Place dot 9 one inch straight out from dot 8-
Draft line F from dot 2 to dot 8- Draft line from dot 8
to dot 9- Place dot Q on line /\ one inch more than % of
|

of leg measure from dot 2 Place the short arm of the square
even with line A, the corner on dot 0, an d draft line || out 8 |

inches, beginning 14 inches from dot 0- Place dot |

on | |

line H 2 inches less than 72 of hip measure from dot Q. 1

Place dot |2 on line A

5 inches below dot 0- Place dot |3 |

4 inches straight out from dot 2- Place letter $ on dot 9,

|

and draft line J to dot 3- |

Place dot 4 n line A. 7 inches |

down from dot 2- |

Place |5 472 inches straight out from
dot |4. Place letter (J on dot |5 and draft to dot |3" Place
dot |6 on line /\ below dot 2 the length of outside leg measure.
Place dot |7 4 inches straight out from dot 6- Extend |

line J from dot 15 to dot "J.

Place dot 8 on line B 5 inches
| |

from dot 3- Place dot \ 9 6% inches straight down from

dot 1 ft. Place letter H on dot 3 a nd draft line K to dot 9. |

Place dot 20 on lin e H 3/i inches in from dot 11. Place dot
2 I

5 inches straight up from dot 20* Place letter p on dot
Waist . / .24 9, and draft to dot 21-
I
Place the point of the curve on
Outside Leg Measure 42 dot 11 and draft to 21, Place dot 22 7 inches straight down
from dot 20 Place letter Q on dot and draft line L to dot
Hips .40 1 1

Knee .
. .

. .12 22- Place dot 23

K f the knee measure straight out from
Place letter Q on dot 22 a d extend line L to dot 23-
dot 15.
Ankle . -9% Place dot 24 straight out from dot 17, the measure around the
ankle. Extend line L ft'om dot 23 to one inch below dot 24-
Place letter $ on the end of line L, and draft to dot f V- Place
a dot % inch outside of the end of line L, and draft to meet line
L
4 inches up. Place a dot % inch in from dot |7, and draft
to meet line J
4 inches up.
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR
MAKING.
SKIRT.
Draft the skirt linings according to
instructions. Place the goods on the
table right side up and see that they are
perfectly smooth. Place the fold of the
front lining even with the fold of the
goods, bottom at the lower end of goods,
and pin firmly, then cut the goods. In
cutting the side gores place the straight
edge of the lining even with the sel-
vedge of the goods and pin fast and cut.
Cut the other gores in the same man-
ner; always see that the thread of the
lining and the thread of the goods run
the same way. Cut the stiffening to
match each separate piece having the
thread of the stiffening run the same as
the thread of the goods. This can be
cut any desired width; from 10 to 18
inches is best. Many of the new cuts
have the stiffening run up to the waist
line in the 3 back widths or Godet's.
The stiffening can be basted on the
wrong side of the lining with a stitch 3
or 4 inches long. Now stitch across
the top without turning in. Then pin
the outside material on the wrong side
of the lining so that the stiffening will
come between the lining and the goods.
Baste through the centre of the front
with a 1% inch stitch, beginning at the
top and fastening the thread off at the
bottom of skirt, then baste at each side
2 inches from the edge beginning at the
top and basting down and across the
bottom. Baste the remaining parts in
the same manner.
Place the bias side of the front to the sel-
vedge of the first side gore pinning the
seam down V2 inch from the edge. Ex-
VJF- <*0fo\.^ d'j&.ooiSS
trem e care must be taken not to stretch the bias edge. Now baste,
using a y
2 inch stitch. It is absolutely necessary to have all
seams perfectly straight, and to do this it is best to have a long
straight rule (about 45 inches), and mark a line just outside of
the basting to guide the stitching. Stitch with the bias side
down next to the feed, stitching one side up the other down.
Remove the basting and turn the seam evenly ready for bind-
ing or overhanding. 9
Pressing.
Care should be taken to prevent wrinkles forming
on the material when pressing, as it is quite impossible to re-
move a wrinkle formed by the iron open the seam well before
;
placing the iron on bear well on the iron when pressing so as to
;
give a flat seam. Turn the skirt right side out and place on
the table. Take the centre of the front and pin in the double
at the top. Now pin the corresponding seams together at the
top, then the centre of the back, draw each seam down evenly
and pin at the bottom. Take tape measure and measure down
the centre of the front the length of the front skirt measure and
mark. Now measure down the first seam y2 inch more than
the skirt measure and mark, measure down the centre of the
gore the same distance and mark. The next seam (or directly
over the point of the hips) should be one inch longer than the
skirt measure; make the remaining part of the skirt the same
length. When the back measure is shorter than the front, the
difference should be taken from the top of the skirt sloping
from the point of the hips back. Trim the bottom of the skirt
y inch longer than you have marked. Now turn up the bot-
tom y inch and baste down, then catch to lining, being
careful that the stitch does not come through. (If a facing is
desired, cut about 6 to 8 inches deep on the bias and stretch
slightly at the bottom so as to prevent too much fullness at the
top, tack the bottom with a medium stitch, turn in the top and
fell down to the lining of the skirt.) To put the velvet on the
y
bottom, fold the velvet over 2 inch and place it on the bottom
so that it will drop %inch below the edge of the skirt, then
turn the velvet in at the top and fell down.
Make the placket hole (from 9 to 10 inches long) on the
left side, in the seam that joins the back to the side
gore and face the opposite side to the fly, which should be
about one inch deep and finished in the double; the facing can
be about 1% inches deep and fastened firm across the bottom.
Cut the band 2 inches longer than the waist measure making it
one inch wide, turn in the band 2 inch on each end, place the
y
end of the band on the edge of the fly and measure 1^ inches
less than } 2 of the waist measure and pin to the centre of the front.
This will give 1 y2 inches on each side which must be fulled on
to the band. The back can be pleated or gathered on the re-
maining 3 inches; now pin the band on and baste with a firm
stitch, then sew on by hand or machine and finish with a large
hook and eye. Place hangers on each side of the inside of the
belt.
SKIRT YOKE.
Use the fold of the goods for line A. Draft line B one
inch from the lower end of goods. Measure up the fold
of goods 6% inches and place dot 2. Place the end of
tape line on the junction of. line B and the fold of goods and
draft a curved line C from dot 2 to line B. Place dot 3
on line C 2 inches from dot 2. Place dots 4 5 & 6 2
inches apart on line C. Place dot 7 one inch from dot 6.
Place dot 8-5 inches straight up from dot 7. Place the
corner of square on dot 6, the edge on dot 8, and draft line D
out 10 inches. Place the corner of the square on the
junction of line B and the fold of goods, the edge on dot 2, and
measure out and make a dot according to the size of waist
measure. See " Waist Measure" and see " dotted l.ne.
Now place the edge of square on dots S, 4, 5 & 6 and make a
dot in the same manner according to waist measure.
Draft the curved line placing letter J (on the curve) on the first
dot and draft from dot to dot.
This will give you the correct shape of the waist line. The
yoke can be made any desired width but must be shaped at the
back according to line D.
 CAPES.
Draft line A i i ncn from edge of cloth. Draft line B 5
inches from end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line A accord-
ing to neck measure. See table for distance.

Dot 2 5 A
3 6 63/
4 6y2 6M 7 1%
Neck s
;
ze 2 9 10 1 1 13 14 15

Dot 3 ey 6%& 6# 7 7^ lYx J fa

Place dot 3 on line B and from line A according to neck

measure see table for distance. Draft line C straight
ont from dot 2-6 inches. Place dot 4 on line C i>4
inches from dot 2- Draft line D
6 inches straight down
from dot 3. Place dot Si^ inches up from dot 2 on
on line A. Place dot -% mcn i n from dot 3 on line B.
Place short arm of square on dot 5 the long arm on dot 6
and place dot 7 at the point of square. Place point of
curve on line C. 1 % inches from dot 4 and draft line E to dot
7 (use the round curve edge). Place point of curve on
dot 7 and extend line E to meet line 2 D
inches from dot 3
(use same curve as before). Place dot 8 on line E
down y inch from dot 7- Place dot 9 on line E y
inch up from dot 7- Place dot 10 on line i>4 inches B
from line A. Place edge of square on dots IO and 7
and measure out 3 inches from dot 7 and place dot 12.
Draft lines F and G from dot 1 2 to dots 8 and 9-
Place letter M on dot 4 and draft line H to meet line A 1

inches down from dot 2- Measure out from dot 3-9 inches
on line B and place dot 1 3- Place dot 14-2 inches
straight up from dot 13. Place edge of square on dots 3
and 14 and draft line 'J straight out. Measure down from
dot 2 the length desired and place dot 1 5 on line A.
Draft line K 7 inches straight out from dot 1 5 Measure- .

out from dot 3 on line B iy2 inches more than the front meas
ure and place dot 16. Draft line L straight down 6 inches.
II old the end of tape line on dot 7 and draft a curved line

from the end of line K to the end of line L.

CIRCULAR CAPE.
The neck measure and length are all the measures that are
necessary. If the goods are wide enough to cut without a seam
then fold the goods and measure up the fold the length that you
wish the cape and place dot 2. Place dot 3 one- sixth of
the neck measure from dot 2. Stick a pin through the end
of the tape line and in dot 3 and draft a curved line beginning
at dot 2. Without removing the pin or tape line, measure
down the fold of the goods the length that you wish the cape
and draft a curved line. If the goods are not wide
enough to cut without a seam then use the selvedge in the place
of the fold, this will make a seam in the center of the back only.
Allow for seam in cutting out.
 BOYS SHIRT WAIST.
Draft line j\ 1 finches from the edge of cloth. Draft
iine BY from end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line and A
from line the distance given in the front neck table under dot 2
B
Dot 2 i# *H 2 *% 2% 2% 3

Neck size 8 9 10 I I 12 13 14

Dot y
3 2^8 2 2"/i 3 3/8 sY A
33
Place dot 3 on line B and from line A the distance given in
the front neck table under dot 3 Place letter C on dot 3
and draft line C to dot 3. Place dot 4-6^ inches
troiii do 1 3 and on line B.
down from uoi 4 y
Place dot 5-2 2 inches straight
Place letter A on dot 3"and edge of
curve on dot 5 and draft line D the proportionate length of shoul-
der (see table). Place dot 6 straight down from the
point
of shoulder Y2 inch more than y
of the arm's eye measure
Place the short arm of square on line A
the long arm on dot 6
and draft line E
out from dot 6-3inches. Without moving
the square place dot 7 on line A
at the corner of the sp/hare .

"With out moving the square "place dot 8 on-line

1% inches
more than %
of the bust measure from dot 7. l^fTr Place dot 9
iy inches straight up from dot 6. Place letter on dot 9 D
and draft line F to dot 8. Place the O
point offthe curve
on dot 9 and extend line F to point of shoulder. *
Place dot
10 the length of under arm below'dot 7 and line \. Draft
line Gstraight out from dot 10. " Place dot 11 on line G
and from dot 10 one inch more than %
of the waist measure.
Draft line H
from dot 8 to dot 11. Place dot 12'one inch
straight out from dot 11 Place dot 134?% ? inche"s straight
.

down from dot 12. Place letter A on dot lFand draft line
J to dot 13. Draft line K
straight in from dot 13 to line A.
The dotted lines show the width of the plait in front.
Cut on lines C and F. Allow 2 inch seam on lines T,
y
H and D.
SHIRT WAIST, BACK.
Use the fold of the goods for line A. Draft line B ^
inch from the end of goods. Place dot 2 on the
fold of goods and from line B the distance given in the table
for dot 2 according to size of neck.
Dot 2 n y S/8

Neck size 8 9 10I 11 ia ;

131*4

Dot 3 1/8 2 \2}i 2^|2^|2^

Place dot 3 on line B and from line A
the distance given in
the table for dot 3 according to size of neck. Place the
point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Place
dot 4 on line S 614 inches f^m dot 3. Place dot 5-ij4
inches straight down from dot 4. Place letter A on dot 3
and edge of curve on dot 5 and draft line D
the proportionate
length of shoulder, Place dot 6 % inch more than of the y
arm's eye measure straight down from the point of shoulder.
Place short arm of square on line A the long arm on dot 6 and
draft line E out 3 inches from dot 6. Without moving the
square place dot 7 on line E one inch more than of the bust y
measure from line A- Place the point of the curve y
inch in from dot 7 on line E and draft line f to the point of
shoulder Place dot 8 the length of the back measure below
ii. Place dot il~% inch out from dot 2 and on line A Place dot 9 straight down from dot
dot ii. Place letter G on dot 10 and 7 the length of under arm measure. Draft line G from
draft line J to dot 12. Draft line K dot 8 to dot 9. Measure out from dot 8 1 % inches more
straight from dot 12 to line A. of the waist measure and place dot 10 on line
Cut on lines F, C and K.
than y
uich seams ov. lines D H y
Allow 2 G. Draft line H from dot 7 to dot 10. Measure
and J. at sight down from dot JO
4^ inches and place dot
 NECK BAND.
Draft lines A and B. Measure up line A from line B
Y> of the shirt neck measure and place dot 2. Draft line
C straight out 2^ inches from dot 2. Place dot 3 on line
Ci^ inches from dot 2. Place dot 4 on line 62^
inches from line A. Draft line D from the end of line C
to dot 4. Place dot 5 on line B one incn from dot 4
Place dot 6 on line D ^
inch from dot 4. Draft line E
from dot 6 to dot 5. Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft
line F to dot 2. Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft line Q tG
dot 3. Allow %
inch for seams on lines Q and F.

BOY'S COAT-BACK.
Draft lines B A and ^
inch from the edge and Upper end^of
cloth. Place dot 2 on line A the distance given in
the table for back neck under dot 2, according to size of
neck.
Dot 2 % A
3
y2
Neck Size 7 8 9 10 iir 1 2 13 14
m
!

^ e /*>
Dot 3 1 t'ji *% i# i# 1^8 I#
*tt\

^
\
<V
Place dot 3 on line B the distance from line
under dot
C to dot 2.
3.
given in table
Place point of curve on dot 3 and draft line
Place dot 4 on line B 6% inches f"
n
r ot
3
A
m
\>y Place dot- S 3 3 inches^"straight 'downTfrom dot 4
A
f lace point of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 5 ano^
draft line J) 1 inch longer than 'the proportionate length of
* shoulder. See table: Place'dot 6 straight down from the
point of shoulder the distance given in tne table according to
arms' eye measure.
1 Arm's Eye Measure 7
-8 9-10 II 12 13-H

d lt'Dot-6 2/2 2 3^ 3% 3%
3
1 Place dot ~] > b inch straight in from dot 6- Place
$ 1 u. the point oLcurve on dot 7 "and draft line to the point of
Oo t

shoulder, g^i Measure down line A

from dot 2 the length
of back measure and place dot 8- Without moving the
>
square place dot 9 on li ne A
and from dot 2 the length of
coat. Draft line p straight out from dot 8- Place dot
10 on line p %
inch in from dot 8- Draft line Q beginning 6
inches below dot 2 and drafting to dot \Q. Extend line
A
G to meet line 5 inches belo-v line r iJ iace dot 11
on line F 2 inches less than %
of waist measure from dot 8.
Place letter Q on dot 7 and draft H to dot 11.

9 ^ pi
Draft line J straight out from dot 9.
1 2 on line
J %
Place dot
inch more than the distance between dots i0 and
11. Extend line H
from dot 11 to dot i2 straight.

Folding Square . $2.50

Plain Square 1.50
Curved Rule 1.50
Instruction Book 1.50
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE,
Chest
Waist
... 8 YEARS.

25
23
Measure Book
Double Tracing Wheel
Sateen Tape Lines
The "Acme" Shears, 6 inch
25c.
ioc, 25c. and
and
25c.
50c.
50c.
90c.
Back "K " " " 8 " $1.00
Under Arm 5^ 125
Neck 10
French Bust Forms, Cloth Covered 2.50
Streeter's Tailoring Irons, Set . 1 75
Arm's Eye 9
Length in Back . 21

A REWARD will be paid for information of any infringement on our

copyrights.
Vienna Ladies' Tailoring Institute,
 BOY'S COAT-FRONT.
Draft line A 2 inches from the edge of cloth. Draft

f
line B one inch from the upper end of cloth. Place dot

j
2 on line A and from line B the distance given in the table for

[
front neck under dot 2 according to size of neck.

Dot 2 7% 2^ 2^ 3 3K':3 A
l 3
3 A\ 4

Neck Size 7 |

1
8 I

1
9 10 II 12 l
3 M
Dot 3 yA\ 4 4/8 4% 4^14/^ 4S A 4K

Place dot 3 on line B and from line A the distance given in the
table for front neck under dot 3. Place dot 4 on line B
6Y-z inches from dot 3 Place dot 5-3/^ inches straight

down from dot 4. Place corner of square on dot 8 the

edge resting on dot 5 and draft line C-% inch more than the
proportionate length of shoulder (see table). Place letter G
on end of C and draft a curved line to dot 3 (see diagram).
line
Place tne snort arm of the square even with line B the edge
of long arm on the point of shoulder and draft line D straight
dow n (see diagram;. Draft line E i}i inches straight out
from dotj2. Place letter C on the end of line E and extend
line'E to dot 3. Place^dot GJ4 of the arm's eye measure
below dot' 2"and on line A.. Draft line F straight out be-
ginning- 6 inches fmrn dot 6. Place dot 7 on line F i#
inches less than ZA of tne chest measure from dot 6. Measure
down line'D" from linefF the length of under arm measure and
k

place dot 8-
^P
1 ace [short arm off square even with line A, the
long arm'on dot 8. and[draft*line G out from line A one inch
r

more than %
of the waist measure and place dot 9. Place
the corner of square on dot 7 the edge on dot 9 and draft line
H down about 18 inches. Place the corner of square on dot
9 the edge on dot 7 and measure up the distance between dots
11 and 7 in the back and place dot 1 Place point of curve
on dot 10 and draft curved line to H about 6 to 8
meet line

inches below dot 9. Measure up line D one inch from line

F and place dot U Place dot |2 finches straight
1 in from

dot U towards line A. Place the point of the X

curve on
dot |0 and draft to line F (See diagram Place the )

point of curve on dot |2 and draft to the junction of lines F and D

Place letter K on dot !2 and draft to the point of shoulder.
Measure down line H from dot 9 the distance between dots ||

and |2 in the back and place dot |3- Measure down from dot 8.

one inch more than the distance between dots 9 and 13 and place
dot 14. Place letter R on dot i3 and the edge of the
curve on dot 14 and draft line J to pass through dot 14-2 inches.
Place the point of the curve on the end of line J and draft to
the junction of lines G and A-

To draft this coat double breasted, follow the dotted line

In cutting goods with a nap be careful to have it run in the

proper direction.
Cut the collar on the bias of the material.
 BOY'S COAT SLEEVE.
UPPER SLEEVE.
Draft line f^-% inch from edge of cloth. Draft line
B-1'2 inches from lower end of cloth. Place dut 2 on
line A one inch from line B- Place dot 3 on line B an d
from line A- 2 inches less than the measure around the hand.
Draft line Q from dot 2 to dot 3. Place dot 4 on line A
one inch less than half the length of the sleeve from line B-
Place dot 5-^inch straight out from dot 4. Place dot 6
straight out from dot 5-^4 inch less than j of arm's eye
measure. Place dot 7 on line A and from dot 4 one inch
more than }4 of the length of the sleeve. Draft line Q
straight out from dot 7 about 9 inches. Place dot 8 on
line A~3^ inches below dot 7. Place dot 9 on line \)-}i
inch less than }4 of the arm's eye measure from dot 7.
Place dot 10 on line \)-}4 inch less than ^
of arm's eye
measure from dot 7. Place dot 11 one inch straight
down from dot 10. Place letter S on dot 2 and draft line
E to dot 5. Place letter S on dot 5 and extend line E to
dot 8. Place the point of the curve on dot 9 and draft
line p to dot 8. Place the point of the curve on dot 11
and draft line G to dot 9. Place letter S on dot 6 and draft line
H to dot 11. Place letter |V) on dot 6 and extend line H to dot 3.
TO CUT OUT.
Allow 1% inches on the lower end for facing (see diagram).
Allow X inch for seams on lines and \\. Cut on lines FandG-
UNDER SLEEVE.
Draft line A % inch from edge of cloth. Draft line B
\Y2 inches from the lower end of cloth. Place dot 2 on
line A one inch from line B- Place dot 3 on line B 3
inches less than the measure around the hand from line A-
Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3. Place dot 4 on line A
one inch less than ^2 of the length of sleeve from line B.
Place dot 5-j4 inch straight out from dot 4, Place dot 6
straight out from dot 5)4 inch more than % of the arm's eye
measure. Place dot 7 on line A % f the length of
the sleeve from dot 4. Place dot 8 on line A 2 /i inches
down from dot 7. Place dot 9-^ inch below dot 8 on
line A- Place dot 10 straight out from dot 7~}4 of the
arm's eye measure. Place the point of the curve on
dot 9 and draft line D to dot 10. Place the point of the curve
on line D 2 inches out from dot 9 and draft to dot 8 (see dia-
gram). Place letter S on dot 2 and draft line E to
dot 5. Place letter S on dot 5 and extend line E to dot
8. Place letter S on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 10.
Place letter G on dot 6 and extend line F to dot 3.
TO CUT OUT.
Allow 1% inches on the lower end for_ facing (see diagram).
Allow % inch for seams on lines E an d F. Cut on line D.

BOY'S COAT COLLAR,

Draft lines A and B. Place dot 2 on line A inch ^
from line B. Place dot 3 on line B 2 inches from line A.
Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3. Place dot 4 on line A
one inch more than half of neck measure from dot 2.
Draft line [) 3 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line E to dot 5. Meas-
ure % inch out from dot 4 and draft a slightly curved line t >

meet line A about 2 inches from dot 4 Line E sews on the

coat. Cut the collar on the bias both canvass and goods.
MEASURE FOR BOY 8 YEARS.
Chest, 25 I Back, 12}^ I Neck, 10 I Sleeve, 17
Waist, 23 Under Arm, 5^
I
|
Hand, 7
Arm's Eye, 9 |

Take the measure around the chest smooth not tight. Take
the waist measure rather snug. Back measure from large joint
in neck to waist line. Under arm measure well up under the
arm to waist line. Arm's eye measure one inch below the
point of shoulder, tight. Neck measure, around the bare neck,
smooth. Sleeve measure, from point of shoulder to wrist;
areviacl hand, tight.
 BOY'S KNEE PANTS. FRONT.
Draft lines A. and ^ inch from the edge and end of
B B
% inch from line A..
cloth. Place dot 2 on line
Place dot 3 on line Vz inch less than % of the waist
measure from dot 2, Place dot 4 on line A about 6 inches
below line B. Place letter f^ on dot 4 and draft line C
to dot 2 Measure down line from line the outside A B
leg measure and place dot 5, Draft line straight out D
from dot 5, Place dot 6 Yi inch inside of dot 5,
Measure up line A
from dot 5 the inside leg measure and place
dot 7 Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 6 extending one
inch below dot 6, Draft line F straight out from dot 7.
Place dot 8 on li ne F Vz inch less than y^ of the hip measure
from dot 7 Place dot 9 otl line y? inch less than y2 of D '

the measure around the knee from dot 6- Measure one

inch straight down from dot 9 and place dot 0, Draft line |

G from the end of line to dot 0- EPlace letter on|

H
dot |
and draft line to dot 8- H
Place the corner of
square on dot 3 the short arm on line and draft J straight B
down to line F. Measure up line J 2 inches from line F
and place dot Place letter
| on dot | | and draft line D
K to dot 8-
|

Allow y& inch for seams on lines C, E, H,

J and K. Cut on lines and G. B
BACK.
Draft lines \ and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of

to waist measure "see table." Place dot 3 on line B 1%

Dot 2 2% X
2 /2 2% 3 Z%
Waist Measure 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

inches more than %

of the waist measure from line A-
Draft line C from dot a to dot 3. Place dot 4 one inch
from dot 3 on line C- Place dot 5-1% inches from dot 4
on line Q. Place dot 6-^ inch from dots on line C-
Pbce the coi i\er of square on dot 6 the ed.f" Pven with line P,.
ana draft line down about 4% inches.
D Draft line trom E
the end of line to dot 5. D Place dot 71 % inches straight
down from dot 3. 3g| |Place the corner of square on dot 4, the
edge of the short arm on dot 7, and draft line down distance F
of the outside leg measure. Measure down line from dot F
4-6 or 7 inches and place dot 8 P> raft line towards &m
line A
one inch from dot 8- Draft line ivor dot 2, t0
? xfrom dot H
the end of line G-W&
Measure straight downline A
2y 2 inch less than the outside leg
measure and place dot g.
Draft line J straight out from dot 9. Measure up line A
from dot 9 the length of inside leg measure and place dot
n Draft line straight out from K
dot |
P lace
I

dot on line J y2
I I
inch.from line and towards dot 9.
_rla ce
F
Place dot one inch straight down from dot |
2 | .

letter M on dot |

I and draft
Place dot | 3 on line
line
and from
L so as to meet
K
line Jb 2/2

inches below line K.

around the hips.
line F
t V2 inches more than
of the measure %
inch more than %of the measure y
1 Place dot 4 on line
I J
around the knee from dot | | Place dot 5 one inch straight
.

M
|

down from dot 4. Draft line from dot 2 to dot 5. | |

Place letter H
on dot | 5 and
|

draft line to dot 3 r [ ace N |

"

dot 6 on
I
line 2 inches K
in from dot 3. -^ace dot 1
|

2 inches straight up from dot | 6-

Po\.A H<tv<Z-_ Ex ten J
letter C on dot 17 and aratt nne to dot 13.
line from dot 17 to dot 3 straight. Allow inc:i
^
I T
seam on lines L, N and 0. Cut on lines C, H and M.

MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. 8 YEARS.

Outside Leg meas-
Waist, 24; Hips, 34; Inside leg Measure, 10;
f*s ure, 18; Knee, n%. Take the waist and hip measure easy,
not tisfht.
HAVE YOU...
SEEN A COPY OF THE
pa^is euoiTion
. .OF.

4i
Toilettes"
r*"
a magnificent book, and contains
It is
more illustratrations than any other
monthly fashion magizine in the world.
Most of the black and white drawings are the same useful and practi-
cal styles published in the American eaition, with many additional half
tone engravings of millinery, children's costumes aid fancy worU, enter-
taining articles on many subjects.
Drama
The most comprehensive book on this subje
Besides eight large fashion plates of

A
....
latest Paris styles* beautifully .colored
in the newest shades
new department, which is fcnow as our '-Pictute Gallery," issues
ever published, every detail showing the advantag
of the tailor system and methods. Also giving ful
teery month and gives free to each yearly subscriber a fine half-tone engrav-
4ng, size HVi x 16 inches, of some noted person or place. instructions when paper patterns are used. Th
These engravings alone will be worth book should be in the hands of every ladies' tailor^
double the price asked for a year's
dressmaker, seamstress and every lady that does
subscription her
The
cost of this edition is so great that
thirty cents for a sample copy
we charge a small amount own sewing. The author (Miss Klug) was formerly
a teacher in this institute, and we know her to be.
Sold by Subscription only at $2.50 for One perfectly
Year; $1.50 for Six Months, or competent
$1.00 for Three Months. Send orders to us.

SEND 30 CENTS FOR SAMPLE.

Toilettes Publishing Co.

126 West 23d Street, NEW YORK

ix titit nnlM
Home Teacher of Millinery .

This is the only publication of the kind printed.

Anyone and following the instructions,
at all bright,

can readily acquire the art of Millinery, as every

point, from the making of wire frames to the final
finishing of the hat or bonnet, is fully explained.

This book we cannot recommend too highly.

Madame Melcher, the author, is the principal

teacher in our Vienna Millinery Institute, and is

very competent.

Price $1.50.

Send orders to the

VIENNA MILLINERY INSTITUTE,

%2 East 14th Street
 i22 Y 0F CONFESS

(COPYRIGHTED.]
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

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ii ii mil mil mil inn mil inn ill

013 964 933 3

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