Fujifilm X-T1 settings

Several times each day Im asked about some aspect of the way I use my Fuji X series cameras via social
media (Twitter: @damienlovegrove, Instagram @damienlovegrove, Facebook: damienlovegrove ) and
now that the firmware has settled down for the X-T1 The time is right to share my settings and more
importantly my way of shooting with you. Note: The new autofocus engine developed for the X-T10 is
coming to the X-T1 via a major firmware update in June 2015 but as I always shoot in AFs mode this will
have no affect on my settings or on the way that I use the camera.

My Fujifilm X-T1 settings

There are several ways of shooting with digital cameras. With SLRs I used to set up my LCD to mimic a
simulated final processed image. This was punchy, vibrant with deep blacks and peaky whites. The image
on the back of the camera was very different from that of the real world projected on the focussing screen
in the viewfinder. However I have adopted a completely different approach to setting up my viewfinder
and LCD with my Fuji X system. I have established the optimum camera jpeg settings to give me a
viewfinder image that shows exactly what is recorded in the raw file. The jpegs produced with my
settings are somewhat flat or calm and are not always representative of my finished photograph. Anyone
who has shot raw video footage will know just how it looks prior to grading. Thats what I like in my
stills camera too as it allows me to accurately assess the image exposure while Im setting shutter speed,
ISO and aperture. Here are my settings and why Ive chosen them.

The Q menu of the latest X series cameras is customisable and after much deliberation I have settled on
this layout for the menu items on my X-T1

Q Menu

Row 1 of the Q menu

Ive parked Face Detection over on the left because at some point in my life I expect to need it and Ive
always struggled to find it in the main menu system. When the camera is switched to AFs it is greyed out
as shown here.
Then there is BASE I leave it alone because Ive not had a reason to programme C1 C7 yet. The fact
that you cant name the custom settings makes them unusable for me because Id never remember what
one does what.

The Macro function had to be moved here because it used to be switched on or off via the top button of
the four selector/ function buttons arranged in a circle around the Menu/OK button. I have set all those
selector buttons to FOCUS focus area. This allows me to quickly move the focus point around. More on
that later. (Im not sure the Macro function does anything anyway. I certainly never use it)

White Balance is on the right. This is nearly spot on however I would like to be able to see and adjust the
K setting once highlighted in the Q menu from the front command dial rather than have to assign the
White Balance to the function 2 button. The white balance is critical for me as it is one of the settings that
gets saved to the RAW file and carried through to Lightroom. I dont like having to faff about with white
balance in Lightroom, I like to get it right in camera. I only use three white balance settings, Sun,
Cloudy and K. K gives me the control I want in mixed light or when Im colour shifting. Being able to
preview the colour effect while changing the K value is wonderful.

Row 2 of the Q menu

Row two of the Q menu starts with Noise Reduction. Ive no idea why I parked it here as I always leave
it set to Minus 2. If I could switch it off altogether Id do it. in camera noise reduction is the single most
evil thing in the Fuji menus. NR set at any level above minus two kills detail. I have my Lightroom
defaults set to zero too.

Next is Jpeg size and aspect ratio. I always leave this set to L 3:2 and I have good reason to do so. The
jpeg image that is saved embedded in the RAW file on a Fuji camera is just 50% in size and that means
when shooting RAW only the playback is limited to a 50% view. This isnt enough so I end up shooting
large fine jpegs too just to get a decent image to review in camera. I throw the jpegs away in computer.
Some say that if your card fails you get two chances of having a non corrupted file as either the jpeg or
RAW are likely to be okay. Ive never had a corrupted SD card so Ive no way of verifying this. I use the
UHS2 type cards by Sandisk with a 280mb/s write speed. These are the cards the X-T1 was designed
to use.

File type RAWF is my permanent selection for reasons discussed above.

Film Simulation is my most accessed Q menu item. I mainly use Pro Neg S but I also use Bg. Pro Neg
S delivers an image on screen that is calm and natural. It looks flat to most people but it gives me the
chance to assess the digital file dynamic range precisely. Bg Soften skin tones in black and white
portraits as the user manual describes and I happen to agree with them. When I get my images into
Lightroom I have to remake these film simulation choices but they are so worth it as the Adobe
Standard camera profile is not great.

Row 3 of the Q menu

Highlight Tone I set this to minus 1. In conjunction with Pro Neg S this lets me see exactly the limits of
highlight recording in the RAW file. I can accurately set my white level where I need it. I often find
myself shooting white clothing into the light and I want to know just how white it looks. Im not one of
those photographers who is scared of white and makes everything a shade of grey but I am very tuned in
to where I place my white point threshold in the scene.

Shadow Tone I set this to minus 1. This allows me to see every last bit of detail being recorded in the
shadows. With the film sim set to Pro Neg S and the tone end stops set to minus 1 I can see exactly what I
will see in the RAW file in Lightroom. Its like previewing what highlight and shadow details can be
recovered with the adjustment sliders without having to guess. Once the image is in Lightroom it builds
its own preview completely ignoring these tonal settings. Thats fine by me.

I leave Colour set to zero as the Pro Neg S film simulation doesnt exaggerate or reduce saturation.

I set the Jpeg sharpness to minus 1. I do this so that the screen image on my LCD or EVF isnt giving me
an over confidence. I hate seeing an image in camera that looks acceptably sharp even when viewed at
100% only to discover that in the computer it it looks slightly blurred because of the onset of camera
shake etc. I want sparkling pictures in print and with sharpness set at minus 1 I regularly shoot another
frame after image review that I would have not bothered to do with sharpness set to zero.

Row 4 of the Q menu

Self timer is useful so its there on my Q menu.

Shutter Type is always MS for me. I regularly use flash and I dont want issues with flash timing plus I
work under artificial and fluorescent and light sources that beat with the ES leaving banding in the
image. The mechanical shutter in the X-T1 is perfect.

Flash I use this to toggle flash on or off. Ive never used rear and I expect someday we will be able to use
commander mode when the Fuji flash system is released.

LCD and EVF brightness. I set this to zero as it gives me an image exposure I can rely on.

Function buttons

I have set the Selector Button to Focus area and this negates having to set each segment individually.

That one press saving when moving the focus zone around is vital in speeding up the camera shooting
process plus it means I never switch on macro or some other function by accident etc. This is a game
changer for me.
Focussing regime: I always move my focus zone to where it is needed before I take the picture. This is
because the Fuji X system lenses are flat field meaning a focus reframe method of shooting doesnt work
with subjects off centre in the frame [see note below]. The added advantage of doing this is when I check
for blinks on playback and zoom in using the instant access 100% playback It goes straight to where its
needed and not some arbitrary middle position.

Note: Fuji lenses are flat field meaning if you point one at a brick wall 2 metres away and set it wide open
focussed at 2m it will create a sharp shot edge to edge and corner to corner even though the edges of the
frame may be 3m from the lens. The focussing distance changes as you pan away from centre. Thats
why focus and reframe system of focussing doesnt work. Incidentally its also one of the main reason
SLR users get back focus issues. With an SLR only the centre focussing areas are sensitive due to the way
the prism operates. With the Fuji X system all the focus zones are sensitive even right into the corners and
that is why focusing errors are a thing of the past.

The function buttons can be configured in just about any way you want them. In this shot Fn2 is set to
face recognition (Ive no idea why, must have been changed at some point recently) I usually have F2
set to white balance so I can easily change the Kelvin setting. Face recognition has been assigned to my Q
menu.

When Im in shooting mode my screen is clear of data. This gives me a 100% unrestricted view of my
photograph before I press the button. By not having technical information distracting me I can
concentrate more fully on the image composition and framing.

The other things to mention are my accessories. You will see in the top picture that I have the Fuji deep
eye cup optional extra. I have had to trim it down a bit on the top right using a Dremel to fit my left eye.
You can also see that I have a base plate and grip. The L section of this base plate and grip unit is badly
designed and restricted the tilting screen access so it has gone. When I am out shooting landscapes I now
take my trusty three year old Fuji X-Pro1 with its fabulous Really Right Stuff L plate and grip. I never
use camera straps as they get in the way of the lens or restrict my movement with the camera.

Please feel free to discuss these settings. Bear in mind there are many ways to set up an X-T1 and what
works for me may not be ideal for you.
Feel free to see examples of my work shot with the Fuji X-T1 over the past 16 months by clicking on the
gallery image or by clicking here. You can click on each image or run a slideshow to see the photographs
at up to 1000 pixels in size.