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ELLE

POWER
& PARTIES
CARDI G
& CORDUROY
ANS
HOOPS
& HEROINES
THE REAL REAL
RIHANNA
&THE
TRUTH OCTOB E R 2017
4.30

ABOUT 10

LIP FILLERS 9 770269 259242


87 64

118

127

MARKET
102 M AR K E T P L AC E
Add to basket: patent, soft
leather and mini bags

OCTOBER 109 TRY THIS

CONT
Double denim made
easy, thanks to these
fashion-editor tips

-ENTS
118 THE SHOOT
Colour block the grey
away! Heres how to make
the trend work for you

THE
EVERY PLAY COVER
MONTH 126 J AC K O C O N N E L L
Photography: Slve Sundsb
Styling: David Vandewal
45 E DITORS LETT ER
MOOD ELLE has lunch with the
Hair: Yusef at Factory
Downtown for RICH Hair Care
Editor-in-chief Anne-Marie
Curtis on the enduring
BOARD British bad boy who
conquered Hollywood
Make-up: James Kaliardos for
Fenty Beauty
Manicure: Kimmie Kyees at
power of glamour 6 3 M A KI NG G L AM O UR celestineagency.com for
GR EA T A G AI N ! 132 C UL T UR E Defy & Inspire
55 L OV E LETTE R Local production: Tommy
So long, dress-down Frieze art fair, podcast
Romersa at Joy Asbury
Designer Simone Rocha Fridays: the catwalks are and TV pairings, plus Productions
pens a paen to the all about dressing up right seriously fashionable Fashion assistant: Daniel Gaines
inspiring women in her life now and were all in restaurants RIHANNA WEARS:
Faux-fur coat with plastic cover,
CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC.
56 TE N TH IN GS 6 8 F A SH I O N N E W S 134 R UL E O F T H R E E
Diamond and white-gold
Blue fizz is the new green Kiersey Clemons, Kali earrings, CHOPARD
The white shirt reimagined,
juice; skateboarding is slogan tees are here to Uchis and James Massiah
cool again, and why were stay, and who knew you are the names you need
all going to Hull could do all that with to know this month
glitter? Plus a memoir by
58 GU EST L IST Stephen Jones and the 140 ELLE BOOK CLUB
Introducing some of the cosy return of the cardigan Books to buy now,
fabulous people behind and Alex Eagle shares
the scenes who helped her favourite coffee-
create this issue of ELLE ZOOM table tomes

306 P. S. 8 7 C O LOU R 144 MY WORLD


Wait! Before you go, Red, purple, yellow Daisy Hoppen invites
make sure youre up the colour of accessories us round to her Hackney
to speed on rubber youll come to covet apartment and we might
facemasks, silk pyjamas never leave
and Manolo Blahniks film 100 H O OP DRE AM S
C u rat e d e a r s a r e 1 0 0 %
a t h i ng no w
1 9 8 P AR I S , M Y L O VE
Where better to step out
in a chic weekend look
THE than the City of Light?

FEATURES 2 1 0 L O O K S H AR P
Career-ascending tailoring
148 LET S GO OUT OU T to take you through autumn
Put on your dancing and beyond
shoes, book an Uber and
head into the night. And 2 2 0 P R E T T Y T O UG H
no, we dont care that Dress to impress just took
its a Tuesday on a whole new meaning
265 M AD E M E O I S E L L E
152 H O R M ONE H EA LT H 2 3 0 D R E S S F O R S UC C E S S Our columnist confronts
Raey, The Row and, hair extensions
Mood, hunger, sex and
sleep our hormones of course, Armani are
redefining power dressing 2 6 7 AS K S O P H I E
control all these things,
so why arent we paying ELLES beauty director
them more attention? AL L AB O UT E R D E M answers your questions.
ELLE investigates 236 This month: red lipstick
On the eve of his
collaboration with H&M,
ELLE catches up with 271 M O O D B O ARD
169 O N: T H E A GONY A N D
ELA T I O N O F H A V I NG Erdem to talk through Skin, hair, body: sorted
SI ST ER S the collection
279 B E AUT Y S H EL FIE
Theres no relationship
quite like it. One writer
explores the twisted BEAUTY Lust after this curated
bathroom cabinet
nuances of sisterhood
243 & SMILE!
170 C O OL T O BE KI ND The beauty trends youll
want to wear all season
TRAVEL
Maybe were not the
281 S US T AI N AB IL ITY
narcissists we thought 2 5 0 T O O L I P P Y? J US T G O T S EXY
we were
Whatever you think about An eco-honeymoon (yes,
lip fillers, this might change really), and the worlds
THE your mind most environmentally

FASHION 254 B E AUT Y E XP E R T


friendly hotels

Charlotte Tilbury 286 M E E T M E I N...


176 R I H A NNA
The best hotels for
The pop star introduces her 258 CELEBRITY PROFILE an Indian summer
radical new beauty range
Amanda Seyfried

CONT
289 S UI T C AS E
184 W H ER E T H E W I LD
2 6 1 T H E T R UT H AB O UT ... What to pack for the
T H I NGS A R E

-ENTS Heavy knits meet slip


dresses perfection
Collagen
291
last of the summer sun

D R I VE
Why dont you
take an Audi to the
Atlas Mountains

200
152

176 243
BELIEVE EDITORS
LETTER

me, if I looked
good,
OCTOBER
it WASNT
an accident
Its fair to say the
job of an editor
on a glossy mag-
azine from time
to time involves contact with A-list celeb-
rities. From my years as a fashion direc-
tor to now, Ive totted up a fairly impres-
sive tally while shooting our cover stars
NORA EPHRON
over the years. Its an interesting thing, good, it wasnt an accident. Kenya
meeting a very famous person, in that Hunt shows you how on page 64.
they are never quite what you expect. Of course, hand-in-hand with dress-
They can be nicer, smaller, taller, more When we think of glamour, ing up is going out. After all, a night in
or less beautiful, grumpier, funnier, the a sense of dressed-up dazzle with Netflix and a bottle of red isnt go-
list goes on. But the one thing they often (heels, lipstick, dramatic cloth- ing to cut it when youre wearing those
have in common is that they are invari- ing, the works) often comes new sparkly Miu Miu shoes. Nellie
ably not quite as starstruck-inducing as to mind. And Rihanna has that Edens paen to the Big Night on page
you might imagine. In fact, in my expe- down, as witnessed by any num- 148 explores why the fashion crowd is
rience, most famous people are actu- ber of her viral looks from 2017 going out out right now. It will make you obviously a huge star in
ally far more ordinary than you expect. alone the bejewelled Crop- want to go dancing immediately. the making. After having
A few have been so extraordinary, Ive Over costume, the sweeping But glamour is not just about dressing watched his career pro-
ended up falling a little bit in love with Giambattista Valli gown at the up and after-dark fun. One of my go-tos gress, Im so happy to see
them by the end of the work day. Only Valerian premiere, and her Gu- when I need a quick hit of glamour (or his singular vision reach its
one, though, has ended in a full-blown, cci crystal bodysuit at Coachel- have something slightly nerve-racking to biggest audience yet with
no-holds-barred infatuation of epic pro- la, to name a mere few. But true do) is Top Nails salon near our office in his new H&M collabora-
portions. And that would be this months glamour is more than that. Its a Soho. Its not the fanciest of places, but tion. Having seen it up
cover star Rihanna (page 176). cant-quite-put-your-finger-on-it its chock full of women like me getting close, I advise you to get in
As is the case with most celebrity allure, a heady mix of mystery their fix at lunchtime. I always choose the the queue early. Its going
crushes, I was not the only one enam- and bravado, and, most impor- same red. But its not the colour that is the to be a sell-out.
oured by her. In fact, every single person tantly, a sense of genuinely not point, rather the confidence boost and While youre in the
in the studio that day was transfixed (as giving AF about what anyone mood lift it gives me every time. shopping mood, our fashion
are Eminem, Pharrell Williams and Tyra else thinks. And while Ive never embraced a well has all the inspiration
Banks, who have all talked to her for That is what made my col- red lip, I might after reading Sophie Ber- you need: the best dresses
this issue). It was impossible not to be. leagues and me fall in love that esiners brilliantly informative column on of the season (I want them
Photographs: Kai Z Feng

That Rihanna is incredibly beautiful, and day. Oh, and the fact shes an shade rules (page 267) and how the all), the most covetable
even more so in the flesh, was of course absolute riot to be around, in right colour can change your look. shearling coats to cocoon
a factor. But as we all know, looks soon the best way possible. Creating modern glamour and mak- yourself in, and excellent
wear off if there is not much else going And speaking of glamour, ing women feel powerful is something tailoring to raise your office-
on beneath the surface. What Rihanna getting dressed up is very much Erdem Moralioglu has always been a wear game.
has in spades is a quality I can only the mood of the season; even master of. He made my wedding dress In short, I cant imagine
describe as glamour. the humble cardigan has had when he was a fledging name on the you wont be ready for a
a glitzy makeover this autumn London Fashion Week calendar, but little more glamour in your
(page 82). Perhaps this is a reaction to the life, whatever form that
recent athleisure moment or simply because, takes, after reading this issue. And if in
in difficult times, we all crave a little fun and doubt, may I suggest channelling a little
escapism. Its fine right now to look like Rihanna AF attitude? Its the perfect ac-
youve made an effort. Take inspiration from cessory this season try it and see.
the late, great Nora Ephron, who summed it
up with her words, Believe me, if I looked

ELLE
45 OCT
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
ANNE - MARIE CURTIS

CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Tom Meredith

DEPUTY EDITOR
Lotte Jeffs

EDITOR-IN-CHIEFS PA / EDITORIAL ASSISTANT


Rachel Macbeth

FASHION FEATURES
fashion@elleuk.com features@elleuk.com

FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR CONTENT DIRECTOR


Kenya Hunt Hannah Swerling
EXECUTIVE FASHION DIRECTOR ACTING CONTENT DIRECTOR
Kirsty Dale Hannah Nathanson
SENIOR FASHION EDITOR TRAVEL & LIFESTYLE DIRECTOR
Michelle Duguid Susan Ward Davies
ACCESSORIES EDITOR
CULTURE DIRECTOR
Donna Wallace
Lena de Casparis
ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR
ACTING COMMISSIONING EDITOR
Harriet Stewart
Shannon Mahanty
ACTING ASSOCIATE
WITH THANKS TO
FASHION EDITOR
Sophie van der Welle Alexander Barnes-Ross

FASHION WRITER EDITOR-AT-LARGE


Billie Bhatia Stacey Duguid
SENIOR FASHION ASSISTANT
Felicity Kay BEAUTY
FASHION ASSISTANT
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FASHION INTERNS Sophie Beresiner
Lila Flint Roberts BEAUTY EDITOR
Caterina Ospina Joely Walker
Eni Subair

FASHION PRODUCTION
PRODUCTION
& BOOKINGS EDITOR WORKFLOW DIRECTOR
Rachael Evans Christina Simone
BOOKINGS ASSISTANT CHIEF SUB-EDITOR
Clio Cooper Eirwen Oxley Green
DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR
CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS
Emma King
Alison Edmond
WITH THANKS TO
Robert Rydberg
Joanna Schlenzka Ben Olsen
Natasha Wray
Melanie Huynh MANAGING EDITOR
Debbie Black
ART
art@elleuk.com ELLEUK.COM
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WITH THANKS TO
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JUNIOR DIGITAL WRITER
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Cover printed by Westdale, Cardiff. Distribution by Comag (024) 7685 4750


love letter
SI MO NE RO C H A RE FLECTS ON THE IN CREDIB L E WOMEN WHO IN FL UENCED
AND I NSPI RE D HER A W17 COL L ECTION HER G RA ND MOTHERS
Photographs courtesy of Simone Rocha

ELLE
55 OCT
ELLE
56 OCT

EXPLORE
MOVE OVER
COPENHAGEN. DRINK
With an influx of new
restaurants, Estonia is LISTEN BLUE IS THE
becoming a major NEW GREEN
player on the Nordic BRIT-NOMINATED when it comes to
food scene. Head to MILLENNIAL superfoods, so get
the medieval city of rockers Wolf Alice your hands on some
READ Tallinn and feast on release their second Blue Spirulina Kefir
smoked fish and studio album, Water (Purearth,
GOOD THINGS native plants such as FLEX Visions Of A Life, on 3.50), a sparkling
COME IN TWOS, sea buckthorn. 29 September, along EAT drink that helps
from design duo SKATEBOARDING with On The Road, digestion and
Katie Hillier and is an Olympic sport a part-drama, COOK YOURSELF immunity. Maybe
Luella Bartley, to now, so theres been part-documentary HAPPY: The Danish because it contains
Vivienne Westwood no better time to get film about the Way (Jacqui Small, Magik Spirulina, the
working with her on board and learn bands life on tour. 25), by model and best-quality spirulina
husband, Andreas how to tre flip, pop presenter Caroline money can buy.
Kronthaler. In Fashion shuvit and do an Fleming, is published
Together (Rizzoli, WEAR ollie. The Campus on 21 September.
55), published Pool in Bristol offers With Denmark often
on 19 October, STELLA Saturday classes for cited as one of the
journalist Lou M C CARTNEYS beginners, while the happiest nations in
Stoppard documents AW17 SHOW was all recently reopened the world, these
the fashion worlds about the details House of Vans, INDULGE recipes are sure to
most enduring prepare to fall in underneath the make you smile.
collaborations. love with what were arches in London ALGAE FACIALS EXPERIENCE
dubbing the duvet Bridge, runs a HAVE ARRIVED:
bag. Terracotta in weekend skate Algenist is a Silicon HULL IS THIS YEARS
colour, and almost school no Valley brand that CITY OF CULTURE,
inflatable in texture, experience required. uses microalgae and what better
ease into the day with one of the oldest excuse to visit than the
a handbag that could
almost double up as
types of algae in
the world for its
SEE 2017 Turner Prize,
which opens on

1
a pillow. Almost. anti-ageing, AFTER A 26 September at
colour-correcting SELL-OUT RUN the citys Ferens Art
facials. Find it in at the Almeida, Ink Gallery? The art prize

Words: Shannon Mahanty and Hannah Nathanson. Femojis available from the App Store
Genius Liquid comes to the Duke of has had its share of
Collagen, 95, York Theatre. Starring controversies, but this
which has just Bertie Carvel (Doctor is its first year with no
dropped Foster, Matilda) age restriction, and
at SpaceNK. and Richard Coyle two of the four
(The Associate), nominees are over 50.
it tells the story of
Rupert Murdoch and
The Sun newspapers
inception. Until
6 January 2018.

THINGS Artwork by FEMOJIS

From ity breaks, bags to a blue superfood,


these are the months musts just be careful on that skateboard!
GUEST
LIST

ARI WESTPHAL
@ariwestphal STACEY DUGUID
CHARLOTTE Brazilian model Ari @staceyduguid
TILBURY says she loves being ELLEs new beauty
@CTilburyMakeup able to travel for columnist,
her work but hates Mademoiselle, says
Charlottes very first getting on a plane:
job as a make-up that when it comes
artist was working
Im very scared of LAUREN to treatments, she will
flying, she admits. WATERMAN try almost anything:
with Kate Moss Ari was studying Law @laurenwaterman Though I refuse
when they were in Belo Horizonte, to steam-clean my
MELANIE HUYNH
both 19: My career HARRIET QUICK Minas Gerais, when The greatest piece
@melaniehuynh1
kick-started during vagina. She says
@harrietquick she first contacted of advice New York-
the supermodel era her greatest career Be passionate,
a local modelling based writer and
of the Eighties and Fashion journalist achievement was believe in yourself
agency. From there, editor Lauren
Nineties. It was the Harriet says that the being nominated for and dont count
she started to do has been given is
most magical time. best thing about her Columnist of the Year your hours it will
some work in the you will never make
Having worked with job is interviewing at an industry awards eventually pay off
city, before dropping it as a writer if you
Kim Kardashian so many visionary, ceremony: Monty is the advice that
out of university are worried about
West, Cindy creative minds in a Don beat me to it. So, Melanie would give
and beginning her seeming nosy. She
Crawford and constantly evolving I hit the champagne to aspiring stylists.
international career, started out with
Nicole Kidman, she business. The worst as you do took to Having studied
where she has internships at ELLE
launched her own part is fashion-show the stage and made pattern-making
walked for the likes US and Rolling Stone
beauty brand in bench back. Starting like an out-of-time and then interned
of Chlo, Chanel before landing a
2013. Charlotte lives out as a reporter on flapper. Thereby at Maison Martin
and Tom Ford. Ari job as an assistant
in Notting Hill with Fashion Weekly, proving Im not a sore Margiela, she is
describes herself at Vogue , where she
her husband and two Harriet then moved loser. I am coming now a freelance
as patient, curious went on to launch
children, and her to The Guardian as for you, Monty. stylist living in Paris.
and creative, and Teen Vogue before
champions breakfast a style writer, before Mademoiselle says Melanies style icons
says her plan-B going freelance in
is avocado on becoming the editor her new column are Jane Birkin and
career would be a 2006. Surviving as
gluten-free toast with of Frank for a year, promotes beauty for Brigitte Bardot, and
teacher. She models a freelance writer for
lots of pepper and and then Vogues all ages, and she her plan-B career is
the latest tailoring more than a decade
chilli, washed down fashion features will also divulge her running a vineyard
looks on page 210. is my greatest career
with hot water and director for 11 years. wedding drama as and high-end event
achievement to
lemon: Its great She is now a she plans her nuptials venue: My family
date, she says.
for your skin and freelance writer to HIG (Hot has a castle near
She works from her
metabolism. Read and consultant for Intellectual Guy): Bet Bordeaux that used
home in Brooklyn,
Charlottes pro tips retail company Lane you cant wait! Read to be the family home
but when travelling
on page 254. Crawford. With the Mademoiselles of painter Henri de
to a meeting always
new season fast column on page 265. Toulouse-Lautrec.
takes a book for the
Words: Rachel Macbeth. All images from Instagram

approaching, Harriet subway: Im currently We have some secret


is most looking reading The Idiot by projects coming up.
forward to wearing Elif Batuman. I never Melanie styles
red boots, preferably want to finish it, so everyday glamour
by Fendi. She Im reading it very on page 198.
interviews Erdem slowly. Lauren
on page 236. writes about the

THE power of Rihanna


on page 176.

OCTOBER
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58 OCT
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Photographs: Getty, Imaxtree, Rex Features

PRAD A

B A L E N CI A GA

HAL PE RN

FEATHERS
DRAMA
CRYSTALS
GLAMO
HUNT
Edited by

KENYA
mood
MI U M IU

B O TT E G A V EN E T A

THE LOOKS, FACES, PLACES, LABELS AND


D R IE S VA N NOTE N

L OU I S V U IT T ON

HAPPENINGS IN FASHION THIS MONTH


B O T T E G A VE NE T A AW17

DR I E S VAN NO T E N AW17
PR ADA AW17
S O NI A R YKI E L AW17

The detail
DECORATION
As seen at Sonia Rykiel,
Prada, Dolce & Gabbana
and Isabel Marant, amongst
others, embellishment is
a big idea for autumn.
Corsages, crystals, feathers
and rosette appliqus add a
AL B E RTA FE RRE TT I AW17

Plexiglass and metal


heightened sense of theatre. sunglasses, 299,
J I MMY C H OO

GUC C I AW 1 7
D OL C E & GAB B ANA

The piece
THE
AW 1 7

Polyester
DRESS
bag, 39, Its longer, bigger and
T OP SHO P
The accessories more dramatic this
season, with black-tie-
LOUD AND
H AL PE RN AW 1 7

only levels of formality.


PROUD If you dont have plans
for a proper night out,
If a dramatic full look nows the time.
isnt for you, experiment
with glamour in smaller Silk-mix gown,
4,850,
BA L E NC IA G A AW 1 7

doses: a bag covered G U CCI


in multicoloured
paillettes, glittery
sunnglasses or studded
leeopard-print shoes.
BA L E NC IA G A A W 17

The attitude
VI N T A GE B A L EN CIA GA , 196 4

HIGH
VOLTAGE
From Michael
Halperns sequinned
jumpsuits to
Balenciagas outsize
shapes and
Gi
Giammbattista Vallis
flamboyant flourishes,
Patent leather confidence is key when
coat, 550, weaaring the look.
DIESEL
GI A M BA T T IS T A V A L L I A W 17

Leather shoes,
995,
JIMMY CHOO
Faux shearling
stole, 58, But this was before 2017 happened, the year that Miuccia Prada
HELEN MOORE
made it cool to wear ostrich feathers, Anthony Vaccarello made a solid
case for glitter, and Demna Gvasalia reminded us of the merits of a good
old-fashioned bombshell of an evening gown at the autumn Prada, Saint
Laurent and Balenciaga shows respectively.
When I spoke to Alek Wek, who wore said gown backstage, her
eyes were glassy with excitement. It was an emotional experience for me,
wearing that gown. It was just that beautiful, she said of the look, a draw-
dropping reinterpretation of an archive piece, complete with a voluminous,
Denim jeans,
110, Polyester oversized bow and pockets. The shift in the air was palpable, as back-
LEV I S blazer, 39.99, stage dressers helped the models out of their massive gowns and carefully
H&M
packed them away like giant works of art and all this from Gvasalia, the
man behind those Vetements DHL T-shirts that made extreme underdressing
so popular in the first place.
The look
He was hardly the only one to tap into the decadent, velvet-rope mo-
DAY ment. Bottega Veneta offered up moody, vaguely Hitchcockian Forties-

I S AB E L M AR ANT AW17
GLAMOUR inspired dresses and gowns, while Dries Van Noten showed rich velvet
dresses with faux-fur stoles. Alessandro Michele dialled up his already
Channel the spirit of maximalist use of crystals, sequins and embroidery on opulent dresses,
Dries Van Noten and coats and tops at Gucci. And Dolce & Gabbana piled on their trademark
Isabel Marant by using Siciliana with jackets, jeans and capes covered in shimmer, feathers, ro-
denim to dress down settes, beadwork, gold braiding, appliqus you name it. This is a season
shimmer, crystals or
in which faux furs are big, decorative flourishes even bigger, and Cline
faux fur.
Dion is the fashion icon of our times. A sense of deliberation is encouraged.
ItIts no longer uncool to look like youve made an effort. In short, glamour
is back.

MAKING
But why now? The answer is the same
one that has been driving the fashion con-
versation for a while now: disruption and
the collective desire to feel good in spite

GLAMOUR
of it. Clothes that com-
B OTTE GA VE N E TA AW 1 7

pel you to dress up and


Satin-mix
shoes, 45, go out out certainly fit
RIVER ISLAND the bill.
The world is quite

GREAT
OS C AR D E L A RE NTA AW 1 7

a scary and intense


place. And with times like these, I feel there is always
a sense of escapism that comes into play, says Mi-
chael Halpern. The New Yorker and Central Saint

AGAIN
Martins graduate became one of London Fashion
Weeks brightest new talents in February, when he
debuted an unapologetically glam line-up of disco-
style dresses and flared jumpsuits covered in multicol-

!
oured sequins that would have made Ziggy Stardust
Words by KENYA HUNT proud. In his lines short existence, hugely influential retailers, from
Londons Matches Fashion and Browns to Bergdorf Goodman in New
Somewhere along the line, glamour lost its lustre. In fashion, it was York, have picked him up. Hes already a rising performer at the for-
once the goal, a decadent state of mind to aspire to: Elizabeth Taylor, mer: Michael Halperns approach to glamour is different to everything
with her endless emeralds, husbands and range of perfumes. Bianca else and feels very contemporary and fun. A pair of his sequin trousers
Jagger dressed in off-the-shoulder red on a white horse in Studio 54. will look incredible with trainers and a T-shirt, or you can go all out with
Princess Diana in bejewelled, body-hugging Versace. Sarah Jessica a dress or jumpsuit. Weve already had an incredible reaction to his
Parkers Carrie Bradshaw in her Vivienne Westwood wedding dress. collection, which is selling very well, says Natalie Kingham, buying
Photographs: Imaxtree, Getty, Jason Lloyd Evans,

Glamour was once the reference point women took to their hairstylists in director at Matches Fashion.
the salon and into the fitting rooms at department stores. Opulent glamour as a whole promises to be one of the biggest ideas
Then, from about 2008 onwards, the concept jumped off a cliff and on the sales floor this autumn, with dramatic robes, kimonos and crystal-
into a pit of internet memes (try Googling glamour shots), and camp TV embellished satin heels emerging as early retail hits, according to King-
Graham Walser at Hearst Studios

humour (we love you, RuPauls Drag Race). Glamour became more enter- ham. I think more than ever, people need this sort of escapism today. To
tainment than wardrobe inspiration at least in knowing fashion circles. go out and feel magnificent, confident and bright is a way to navigate this
When an ELLE colleague once told another, You look glamorous to- type of climate, Halpern says.
day, with a raised eyebrow during London Fashion Week, it sent the latter Fashion insiders and customers seem to agree. Beyond the clothes,
into a minor tailspin. Am I wearing too much make-up? Is my hair too big? I glamour is an attitude, says Lisa Aiken, fashion director of Net-a-Porter. All
feel like youre telling me I look uncool, she replied. This was at the height the collections that left an impression on me for their take on glamour
of fashions Off Duty moment last year, when we were all wearing tracksuit
bottoms to the office and DHL T-shirts to gallery openings. The last thing
anyone wanted to look was glamorous.

ELLE
65 OCT
MOOD Metal
BOARD earrings, 12,

G U CCI AW17
RI VE R I S L AN D

had a certain confidence, she says. Aiken adds that velvet-rope dress-
ing makes a refreshing counterpoint to minimalism after years of quiet,
tasteful, black-and-navy restraint. For a long time, it seemed so modern

*
to be very understated. This seasons return to glamour is a bold reac-
tion against that. When we look at all the different situations we dress
for in daily life that require a certain seriousness, embracing this idea of
getting dressed up is certainly not a bad thing. Why not be that little bit Sequin- Style tip:
more playful and glamorous for the evening? embellished
dress, 2,245, CASUAL
Theres a fine line between playful dressing up and looking like
youre playing a game of dress-up, though. And a glittery cocktail mini
ATTI C O
LUXURY
may look like fire on the runway, as it did at Saint Laurent, but in a swish Do like Margot
hotel bar, surrounded by drunken revellers at 10pm, it could look like a Tenenbaum and make
slippery slope to fashion caricature. a flamboyant coat the
Aiken suggests avoiding the trap by limiting the glitz: Dont overdo key building block to
it. Keep one element of your look pared back, whether that is teaming your day-to-day look.
an evening top with denim, Go more casual with
keeping the hair and make- sportier layers
underneath (an athletic

This season,
up very undone or dialling
rollneck, vintage tee or
down the jewellery. One of track pants will do).
my favourite shows this sea-
son was Isabel Marant; the
soundtrack was irresistibly faux furs are
feel-good, the girls walked
with a certain attitude and
I loved the juxtaposition of big, decorative
lurex combined with denim
and giant crystal earrings, ourishes even Acetate
sunglasses,
topped off with an over-
sized blazer. It looked
fabulous but very wearable
bigger, and 684,
D O L CE &
GABBANA

and real at the same time.


Its about making the Cline Dion is Faux-fur coat,
120,
TOPS H OP
showy pieces feel like an
extension of how you al-
the fashion icon
of our times
ready dress, rather than put-
ting on a costume for a par-
ticular occasion. A return to
the street-style peacock this

Photographs: Imaxtree, Rex Features, Jason Lloyd Evans, Graham Walser at Hearst Studios
is not. Authenticity is the
most important thing when it comes to glamour, Halpern says.
Its a feeling thats also being underscored in pop culture. Witness
Style tip :
A L T U Z A R RA A W1 7

Cline Dions gusto in embracing a full snakeskin look, complete with a


Rochas coat and matching Balmain boots, for a flight an occassion in
which most people wear sweats. Or Solange Knowles brightly hued, SILK
carefully coordinated outfits on and off stage (yes, matching your cloth- SATIN
ing and accessories is now a perfectly acceptable thing). In both cases,
The satin, bejewelled
the sense of glamour and the woman are almost inseparable. And the
pump is officially back.
thought, planning and effort that has obviously gone into said looks is Wear with jeans and a
a huge part of the appeal. You have to admire a woman who cares classic white, mens
enough about herself to put her best foot forward, even on the occas- button-down.
sions when she doesnt have to.
Its about committing to it, Halpern says. Anything that doesnt
immediately feel genuine in turn makes it irrelevant. Glamour is not only
about something that sparkles, but something that breeds conviction.
GW YN E T H P A L TR O W I N T H E
R O YA L T EN EN B A U MS , 2 00 1

Silk shoes with


crystal buckle,
755, MI U MI U

ELLE
66 OCT
RICH TEXTURES. BOLD EMBELLISHMENTS. MAKE A STATEMENT
MOOD
BOARD
GO BIG
1. 3. 5.
COLOUR IT IN
4.
SHINY FEET
Do like the Miu Miu
woman and
embrace saucer- JAZZ UP YOUR
2. Channel the spirit of
Michael Jackson
and David Bowie DIAMOND
Sparkle doesnt have
to be in silver: Preen
added sequins to the
sized paillettes, or JEANS with socks and DETAILS ultimate all-red look,
go for big prints Yes, bedazzled boots that shine. Gucci encrusted while Nina Ricci
embellished with denim is happening. On the runways, no hats and coats with made pink dazzle
crystals like the Thank you, Isabel accessory escaped gemstones, while with sequin skirts.
Gucci muse. The Marant. Double up the glitter game. Saint Laurent made
world is your stage. on the look with an jackets shine with
embellished jacket. embellished lapels.

ve ways to wear:

the new
glitter
PRE E N

Once frowned upon in fashion circles as


naff, designers are now embracing glitter,
sparkle and shimmer again. From
pimped-up denim to super-sized sequins,
here are the runways biggest styling tips
GUC C I

for a dose of cool glamour. SM

The piece
CUSTOM
ARM

GUC C I
I S AB E L MARANT

CANDY

S AI N T L AURE NT
N I NA RI C C I

Add Fendi to the ever-growing list


of brands doing customisable bags.
Theirs is a series of leather purses
given the charm-bracelet treatment. S A IN T L A URE NT
Pick the colour, size and details, and
mix accordingly on a bracelet-sized
ring. Each pouch is detachable and
can be used separately for keys,
M IU MI U

credit cards, Kit Kats, whatever.


Available at the Fendi pop-up bar
at Harrods, from 980. BB

Market research
THE WHITE SHIRT
A pillar of off- and on-duty wardrobes alike, the classic white shirt has had a revival
for autumn, with reimaginings at Dries Van Noten, Balenciaga and more.
Think of it as a palate-cleanser after the mens shirting trend that ruled last year. KH

THE DETAIL- THE NEW THE WAIST- THE UPDATED THE OFFICE
DRIVEN BOYFRIEND CINCHER CLASSIC HERO
Cotton shirt, Cotton shirt, Cotton shirt, Cotton shirt, Cotton shirt,
38, R IV ER ISLAND 85, GANT 24.99, H & M 199, L UI S A C E RANO 28, V B Y V E R Y

ELLE
68 OCT
MOOD
BOARD

S AI NT LAU R E NT
B ALM AI N

PR O E NZA S CH O U LE R
ALE S S ANDR A R I CH

@ M ANU E LA_ S ANCH E Z_


M O NS E
B ALM AI N

The new girl:


MANUELA
the one-armed Ranked up there with Halima Aden
and Aleece Wilson as one of the

dress
years big breakout stars, Manuela
Sanchez, 17, signed to Viva Models,
is following in the footsteps of Lineisy

Photographs: Imaxtree, Jason Lloyd Evans, Graham Walser at Hearst Studios. Words: Billie Bhatia, Rachael Evans, Kenya Hunt, Shannon Mahanty
Montero as the latest model from the
Dominican Republic to watch.
The cold shoulders that ruled the spring/summer season have Get to know her. RE
moved on to the cold arm, as seen at Proenza Schouler, Saint S O N G : Anything bachata; its
Laurent and Balmain. It got us thinking: a whole free, my favourite genre at the moment.
unrestricted limb. What could we do with that? BB
F O O D : Moro de guandule

2. 4.
ensalada carne basically a
beef salad. Im a meat lover!

Ditch Uber in
1. Revisit your
Art Attack days by
dipping your arm in When you
3.
When theres a rush
for the free prosecco
5. S P I R I T A N I M A L : A dog.
Theyre loyal, friendly, and
the most fun to be around.
Wrap tinfoil around
favour of a an glue and rolling it in awkwardly bump at your work party, your arm in a
silver glitter for a into your ex, wrap dive in with both E M O J I S : The three monkeys,
old-school turkey-basting style
DIY Saint Laurent hands no one will because theyre cheeky like me.
black-cab ride, your arm around until you feel as cool
because the effect. Think of the ever know you
yourself in a as Zayn Malik
dramatic hailing satisfaction of double parked.
passionate looked in Versace
options are peeling it all off at embrace and at the Met Gala.
abundant without the end of the night. remind them what
fabric constraints. a fool they were.

Words with friends


SAY IT LOUD
The slogan tee has been through
many incarnations, from political
Retail therapy
(Katharine Hamnett) to comical
(Henry Holland) and back to politics GET IT NOW
again (Dior, Ashish, the list goes on). The dilemma of having nothing to wear
One man who has always stuck to his has finally been solved, thanks to a
fashion word is Jeremy Scott, who partnership between Matches Fashion
is taking the slogan back to a and Hotel Caf Royal. Developed with a
light-hearted place with a collection lost-luggage crisis in mind (21.6 million
of tees and hoodies demanding you bags went missing last year), the Fashion
Keep Fashion Weird, among Now project will deliver designer pieces
other things. From 118. BB ordered from the etailer within 90 minutes
Cotton T-shirts, 118 each,
J E RE MY S C OTT
to guests at the luxury hotel. Talk about
room service! hotelcaferoyal.com. BB

ELLE
70 OCT
MOOD George shirt,
BOARD

VE R S ACE S S 13
325, BLOUSE

FKA T WI G S I N
Poplin shirt

ALE XANDE R
MCQUEEN
with lace

AT E LI E R
trim, 325,
Silk crepe shirt with B L OUS E

PR ADA AW17
velvet trim, 425, cotton
gingham shirt dress,
295, both BLOUSE

Cotton tartan
shirt with
Cluny tulle,
375,

S CH O U LE R S S 17
B L OUS E

PR O E NZA

BJORK
Silk crepe shirt
dress with

AL E XANDE R
MCQUEEN
Cluny lace
trim, 750,

AW14
B L OUS E
Label to know :

BLOUSE

N ATAL I E PORTMAN I N
B L AC K S W AN , 2 0 1 0

2 0 5 W 3 9 N Y C AW 1 7
Offering gender-neutral he says. It wasnt a very good shop, so

C AL VI N KL E I N
shirts for a new fashion you had to work pretty hard. It was really
about being intuitive and distinctive and
era, Geoffrey J. Finchs quite human and that feels like the right

new brand has been approach for fashion now.


That feeling has translated into what
a whirlwind success he calls a category business for a new
era that focuses on three core pieces: the
shirt, the T-shirt and the shirt dress. Take the
Words by BIBBY SOWRAY
George shirt, for example: its a mans shirt

B AL E NC I AGA AW 1 7
in blue, the archetypal businessman staple.
Its all happened so quickly, says Geoffrey J. Finch But it has a dislocated collar and cuff, and Cluny lace
of his new label, Blouse. Thats something of an un- inserted in the side seam and across the pocket, he

B I G B I RD
derstatement, he started working on his line in ear- explains. Its reimagining things in a modern way.

P RAD A AW 1 7
nest this March, and by mid June it was stocked ex- But why the emphasis on shirts and their deriva-
clusively by MatchesFashion.com. But then Blouse, tives? I was sketching one day and thinking how it

Additional words: Billie Bhatia. Photographs: Feature Flash, Getty Images, Imaxtree, Rex Features
which does exactly what it says on the tin, isnt your was 10 years since the first Antipodium collection
average fledgling label. and Im still sketching shirt dresses, which was a
Finch has been a fashion mainstay for the past staple of Antipodium. Times change and aesthetics
decade. He arrived in London from his native Toow- evolve, but fundamentally they stay the same.
oomba, Australia, in 2004 and began working at The tight focus will remain, but additional pieces,
Soho boutique Antipodium. Two years later, he and such as semi-structured blazers and possibly denim,
G A T SBY , 2 01 3

P R A D A A W1 7

the stores founder Ashe Peacock launched a label will be added with each bi-monthly, in-season drop.
T H E G RE A T

named after the store; and despite his lack of formal It also means the entire collection is unisex. You
training, Finch became creative director. It became look at the way sexuality is accepted now and its
something of a cult brand, loved for its witty prints radically different to what I grew up with, and thats
and cheeky pop-culture references, with fans includ- something to be celebrated, says Finch.
ing Alexa Chung. In 2013, he got the call to join Every piece is manufactured in London, and many In context
Topshop as creative design consultant, and left An- incorporate fabric from Cluny Lace in Derbyshire
tipodium the following year.
His new venture was born instinctively. I kept on
and Roger Watson Laces in Nottinghamshire, which
produced textiles for the Duchess of Cambridge and
FEATHERS
coming back to a feeling that reminded me of work- Diana, Princess of Wales wedding dresses respec- From Balenciagas ostrich-
ing in a shop when I was 18 on a Saturday morning, tively. Going to see [Cluny Laces] factory is amaz- feather gown and matching
ing; you have these huge, greasy, noisy machines Bazaar bag to J.W.Andersons
from the Thirties manned by gruff dudes, but spitting skirt embellished with swingy
out very delicate lace, says Finch. The provenance ostrich panels, the AW catwalks
of production adds an integrity to the brand. were covered in fluff. Here, we
Blouse is a label thats responding to fashions look back on some of the most
current sense of flux, and doing it with feeling. Its memorable feathered moments
important for things to have heart, he says. I hope in recent fashion history.
that comes through to the consumer, that they can

76
BLO USE AW17 : THE DETAILS see that someones really thought about something.
ELLE OCT
Photographs: Alamy, Getty, Imaxtree, Rex Features

P R EE N B Y TH ORN TON B RE GAZ Z I

MU L B ER R Y
KAR LI E KLO S S
FAS H I O N E AS T

CH A N E L

MUL B E RRY PRI N C E S S D I AN A

G RA N D B U D A P E ST
H O TE L B AR NE Y

P O P E J O H N P A UL II
MARN I

LA LA LAND
MARN I
MIU MIU

MI U MI U

THE COLOUR :
CR I ST IA NO R O NA L D O L AC OS TE

MUL B ER R Y
M I S S Y E LLI O T T
MUL B E RRY

M IU M IU

GUC C I

PR I NCE

ELLE
E L L E RY
C H RI S TOPHE R KANE

Lilac, periwinkle and violet were a surprise catwalk hit this season.
AL TUZ ARRA

79
From runway sets to orals, be inspired by a CADBURY-COLOURED world
OCT
BOARD
MOOD
MOOD BOARD
When John Galliano had just been appointed creative director of In 1993, his assistant, Steven Robinson, called asking if Id be
Christian Dior, he asked me to come for lunch. I walked up the grey- interested in working with John on his eponymous label in Paris. When
carpeted staircase, past huge photographs of Marlene Dietrich, Ava we finally met, we chatted like we were like old friends, only realising
Gardner and Grace Kelly sitting in the place I was at that moment, and two hours later that we were supposed to be talking about hats.
thought Id hit the mother load. The second Galliano show I worked on, the AW94 collection,
In the tremendously chic private dining room, we felt as though has since been dubbed the original fashion moment. John showed
we were having a drink in the headmasters common room, like we 18 outfits, all in black, which was extraordinary for the time. I vividly
were doing something very sneaky. It all seemed incredibly grown-up. remember us pinning a sash around Kate Mosss waist. He was
Please come and work here, well have a wonderful time, John said. holding it and I was pinning it, like two people playing a duet on a
It was as completely exciting then as it is now, 21 years later. piano. We looked each other right in the eye and just smiled. We
Theres a story John tells, that he asked me to make some hats for him knew we were on to a good thing.
while dancing at Taboo club in Soho in Until then, I had always thought I should perhaps be
the Eighties and I turned and said, I dont designing clothes instead of hats. I studied fashion design

J O H N G ALLI ANO , 1992


think so, dear. I cant actually remember at CSM and was completely terrified on my first day there
that moment, but everybody thinks its in 1976. I walked into the classroom and felt as though
true! John and I had known of each other I was goofy, badly dressed and didnt know anyone. On
for years before we started working one side there were all these girls wearing head-to-toe
together. London is a huge place, but beige and being very Chelsea-ish. On the other side of the
small, too. My hats were stocked at room, there were four punks. I literally came to a fork in the
Browns, and the founder, Mrs Burstein, road; I turned towards the punks.
bought his entire Central Saint Martins Fashion design in general was not easy for me. I had a
(CSM) graduate collection and told me tailoring tutor called Peter Crown, who owned a couture
of this extraordinary man, John Galliano. house called Lachasse in Berkeley Square. He came to me
TROJ AN, after a few months and said if I didnt improve my sewing,
Fashion Memoir: N I C OL A B OW E RY
AN D L E I GH I was going to fail the first year. So I went to do work

Stephen
B OW E RY , 1 9 8 5
experience with him,
and next to the tailoring
When your career spans work room was the

working with John Galliano, millinery work room.

Jones Princess Diana and Rihanna, So I transferred from


one to the other and
youre bound to have stories. realised then what

The iconic milliner opens up I really wanted to do.


Many years later,
watching John work,
confirmed my hunch: I couldnt be the best
fashion designer in the world because he was,
K A TE MOS S I N GAL L I AN O,

so I didnt want to try. We went on to do four


amazing collections together at Givenchy
when he was appointed creative director in
A W9 6 C OUTURE

1995, before leaving for Dior in 1996.


We absolutely thought Dior was forever.
As told to We believed that John was becoming
Christian Dior, in the way that designers
BIBBY SOWRAY
dont now because they know that their tenure
is temporary. John was there for 15 years, which,
in todays terms, is forever. There was a blissful
D IO R S S 17

ignorance. Thats how the world was; we were


doing something for the long haul and we
had to get it right.
Finding the new language of Dior was a
big challenge. We knew the first show, SS97
haute couture, had to be spectacular; Mr Arnault [Chairman of Dior]
had told John it had to be on the front pages the next day. It was total
panic; John was in a state of complete excitement and nerves. Even
though I was the milliner, I was really part of the whole team, working
on anything that was constructed, like corsets made using an African
beading technique.
I spent a month making a trilby out of tiny loops of telephone wire,
worn by Debra Shaw in the show. John still has it. I made a huge flower
to go on her dress, but the stem looked like a stick of celery; everyone
said, Have you got a bloody Mary to go with that?!
Photographs: Getty

Now, Im part of Dior and Dior is part of me. For somebody who
grew up in the arse-end of nowhere on the Wirral peninsula, its
fantastic. Last week I was sitting on the floor of Rihannas hotel room at
2am, sewing a hat for her to wear with a Dior outfit hours later. Funny

80
how life turns out, I said to her. Tell me about it! she chuckled back.
S TE PHE N J ONE S ,
ELLE OCT L OND ON , 1 9 8 5
It was nothing special. Just your bog-standard school cardie. Not even
cashmere (as if!) just good old 100% M&S lambswool. But I loved
that cardie: the holes that ran along the cuffs, the warmth it gave; but
more than that, I loved the comfort. It didnt need its mandatory school
name tag. Its scent one part Persil to two parts home ensured Id Traditionalists will love the chunky Fair Isle ones at Loewe. Modernists
know that cardie anywhere. will love the bright, true hues at Christopher Kane. Fans of the Seventies
In the pantheon of Great Cardies I Have Known And Loved, the one will gravitate towards the skinny-rib, zigzag-patterned ones at Missoni.
that took me through fifth and sixth form is right up there. This season, Lovers of the Twenties will swoon for the long-line ones at Gucci (a car-
though, some new candidates will be joining it on its plinth because, die was the first look at Gucci thats how much Alessandro Michele
after several seasons of the jumper reigning supreme, the humble cardi- is behind the trend).
gan is back again. And then some. In fact, Ida Petersson, Browns buying director, attributes the car-
Funny how I wrote humble there. Why are cardigans viewed as digan trend in large part to Michele. He has been pushing the cat-
humble? Is it because theyre so often shrugged on for convenience, in egory ever since his first collection for Gucci, so Im not surprised to
lieu of a dressing gown? Is it because your dad wore one in his later see it catch on. With so many Nineties and early Noughties references
years, and you used to tease him for looking ancient? Is it because around, it feels like a natural progression. So assured is Browns of the
they are the opposite of sex? Librarians wear cardies. Geography cardigans popularity that it has doubled last years buy. Demand is
teachers wear cardies. Morrissey wore cardies. Your mum was always sky high for Gucci cardigans our customers cant get enough. Pe-
telling you to take-a-bloody-cardie (the swearing is mine, not hers) in- tersson also singles out Isabel Marants oversized cardies, Azzedine
case-it-gets-cold-later. It is entirely thanks to our mothers, perhaps, that Alaas neat little cropped ones and R13s grunge-inspired versions as
cardigans have these sensible, slightly dreary connotations. Cardigans this seasons stars, adding: But the pice de rsistance has to be the
were never the stars, but full-on logo-mania cardigan from Balenciaga.
the support act; a woolly In truth, I prefer Balenciagas oversized grey
afterthought to stop us feel- THE COMEBACK: ribbed one, the hem of which hangs off, according
ing cold. to the Net-A-Porter website, to mimic the effect of
But not this season.
Oh, no. Finally, the car-
digan has been given
The being caught and ripped in a car door. It reminds
me of my beloved frayed school cardie, though, at
1,170, its considerably more expensive. Still, it
the star billing that it de-
serves. On the catwalk,
there were so many itera-
return of neatly illustrates the point that whether your tastes
run to the ragged or the rich, theres a cardie for
everyone this autumn. We have 45 different op-

the
tions that even the most tions for AW17, laughs Petersson. Theres defi-
cardie-averse person will nitely going to be a cardigan for everyone.
find it difficult to resist. But how best to wear them? After the simplic-
ity of a jumper (which you shrug on and forget

cardigan
about), even the sleekest, simplest cardigan can
afflict the wearer with an acute case of option pa-
ralysis. For a start, there are buttons to contend
with. Open or closed? Half-open, or does that

Finally, fashion is taking your mothers advice and wrapping


up warm. Only this time, its Prada
Words by

LAURA
CRAIK
CH R IS TO P H E R K A N E

T H OM BR O WN E

PRADA
CH RI ST O P H ER K A N E

C H RI ST O P H ER

MI SS O N I
A CN E

KANE
look a bit weird? The to-button-or-not-to-button question
The right
cardi feels
is particularly vexatious for those who arent flat-chested:
button up and you look like Matron, leave wide open and
all you see is a pair of breasts. As someone who has al-
ways envied the prim, neat way that cardigans sit on the
body of a less curvaceous woman (not to mention every
like a seemed like armour, particularly
when worn, twinset-style, over

hug. Lord
man), my best advice would be to buy a size up. Grunge a jumper. Miuccia has long
is back in fashion: just channel Hole-era Courtney Love. been a fan of the cardigan, of
Lydia King, Selfridges director of womenswear, course, but this seasons versions
says: I love them worn over a dress with cowboy boots
relaxed, effortless, but with a modern edge. They work
equally well layered over a distressed tee, or worn with knows seemed to be particularly per-
suasive. Immediately, I wanted
one. Jane McFarland, fashion di-
great jeans and a killer heel. Consider the cardigan as
an alternative to a jacket: a hard-working piece that
we all rector of The Sunday Times Style
magazine, also found herself

need one
can be worn with almost anything. They really come into lusting after one for the first time
their own in tricky, trans-seasonal situations when its too in ages. I did have a coordinat-
warm for a coat, or youre faced with Arctic air-con but ing twinset from Benetton in the
are wearing something too good to cover with a jumper. Nineties, but the less said about
A cardigan is a bit like a jumper, but with added benefits. that, the better, she laughs.
As for how to avoid looking frumpy, King counsels wearing a car- Thanks to Mrs Pradas sophisticated take, Im reconsidering what
digan as a point of contrast. If you choose a baggier fit, team it with Id thought of as an anti-fashion cover-up. As for how shell style it,
something form-fitting. A neat, preppy classic always looks good with McFarland says shell tuck her cardi into high-waisted Margaret How-
old vintage denims, while a ladylike, close-cut round neck is best worn ell jeans, with a slightly oversized blazer.
over a slinky, bias-cut dress, super-wide trousers or a voluminous skirt. Partly, the cardigan has resurfaced again because fashion is cycli-
Then again, maybe looking frumpy is the point. While the grunge-era cal, and after so many seasons of jumpers, we all needed a refresh.
cardie and the statement cardie are undoubtedly having A Moment, And partly, its back because the Nineties are: those unfamiliar with
so, too, are the less-stylised iterations. Much has been written about the shaggy green cardie Kurt Cobain wore during his MTV Unplugged
the dadcore movement (which shows no signs of abating, given that appearances in 1993 should Google it, for a more iconic cardie never

OCT
Balenciagas recent menswear show namechecked young dads in the lived (which is possibly why, two years ago, it was sold at auction for
park at weekends), but the menocore movement has cardigans as a 93,000). But theres more to it. Here in politically
central tenet, too. Named in tribute to relaxed, post-menopausal dress- challenging 2017, we want a very specific kind of
ing (dont shoot me I didnt coin the term), menocore also champions woollen a flexible one, without ego, that will work
the mumsy, no-bells-and-whistles version of the cardigan as a wardrobe around us, both literally and figuratively. The right
essential. Think Diane Keaton in And So It Goes (or in Annie Hall , or, cardigan feels like a hug; and Lord knows we all
well, anything), though you could equally think of Winona Ryder in need one of those from time to time. That cardigans
Mermaids surely the frumpiest cardie ever committed to film. are humble? Thats nothing to apologise for. If only
Pradas cardigans werent frumpy, yet there was something of the more things were. Humble is underrated.
Photgraphs: Imaxtree

homespun about them, even if they came bejewelled with beads. In


fluffy mohair and in vibrant primary shades, there was also a fierce-
ness: they provided warmth, but they also gave protection. It makes
no sense, of course, that a cardigan should feel more cocooning than
a jumper does technically, a jumper offers more protection, not less
but such is Pradas way with a hidden subtext that these cardies

ELLE
L O E WE

V IC TO R IA B E CK H A M

CH R IS T OP H E R K A N E
S O N IA R Y K IE L
P RA D A

G UC CI
M IS SO N I
BOLD
TEXTURE
RED
PATENT
STRIPES !
Photographs by

ISAAC MARLEY
MORGAN

Styling by

DONNA
WALLACE

Leather and shearling aviator jacket, 1,375, S AN D RO.


Leather bag, 1,795, MAX MARA.
Cotton-mix trousers, 360, MARQUE S AL ME I D A.
Patent leather boots, 1,155, MI U MI U
M
ZO
OM

Viscose dress, 2,110, and


lambskin boots, 1,197,
both NI N A RI C C I .
Leather bags, 340
and 570, both
E MPORI O ARMANI .
Denim jacket, 265, AG
J E ANS . Gold-coated
hoops, 79, and gold-
coated ring, 69, both
UN O D E 5 0 . Steel and
mother of pearl watch,
1,250, TAG HE UE R

BOLD
TONES
PILEATHER
NK
!
Photographs: Isaac Marley Morgan

GOLD
BOLD ZO
FUZZ OM
LAVENDER
AUBERGINE
QUILTING !

Mohair jumper, 480,


M ULBER R Y . Leather bag,
1,350, BALLY.
Cupro skirt, 189, BOSS.
Stretch leather boots,
1,195, MULBERRY
Photographs: Isaac Marley Morgan

ELLE
91 OCT
BOLD
VELVET
JADE
CHAINS
LEOPARD !

.
u

I I

M
Photographs: Isaac Marley Morgan

Leather shirt, 1,280,


J . W . AN D E RS ON.
Leather and velvet bag, 1,295,
J I MMY C H OO. Jeans, 234,
ARI E S ARI S E .
Patent leather boots, price on
application, OS MAN

ELLE
92 OCT
BOLD
PLEATS
LILEMON
LAC
STUDS !
ZO
OM
Photographs: Isaac Marley Morgan
Leather trench coat,
4,875, VAL E NTI NO.
Leather boots (all colours),
1,130, all
VAL E NTI NO GARAVAN I .
Gold-coated hoops, 79,
and gold-coated ring, 69,
both UNO
NO D E 5 0
Leather dress,
7,530,
VAL E N TI N O

Silk organza dress,


5,140,
V A L ENT INO

ELLE
95 OCT
ZO
OM

Viscose top,
1,312, and leather
bag, 3,880, both
C L I NE

BOLD
LEATHER

!
Photographs: Isaac Marley Morgan

OCHRE
STATEMENT
SMOOTH ELLE
96 OCT
DENIM

ZIGZAGS
BOLD
SCARLET
YELLOW
!

Leather bag, 1,065,

605, B OTTE GA VE NE TA
FE RRAGAMO. Wool-mix skirt,
S ARA B ATTAGL I A FOR S AL VAT O R E
Denim jacket, 145, W OOD W O O D .
ZO
OM

Photographs: Isaac Marley Morgan. Hair and make-up: Terri Capon at Stella Creative Artists using Bumble and bumble and
YSL Beaut. Manicure: Saffron Goddard at Coffin Inc using YSL Beaut. Model: Katie Braatvedt at DNA Models
ZO
TH I S PI C TURE :
Mode ls ri ght e ar, fro m
top: 1 8ct y e llow-go ld and
OM
di amo nd thre e -ho op
e arri ng ( so ld as se t) ,
1,440, ME S S I KA. 1 8ct
y e llo w gold e arri ng ( so ld
as pai r) , 1 ,550,
TI FFANY & C O .
Le ft e ar, fro m top:
1 8ct y e llow-go ld e arri ng
( sold as pai r) , 1,300,
GE ORG J E NS E N . 1 8ct
y e llow-go ld and di amond
e arri ng ( so ld as pai r) ,
9,1 20, ME S S I KA. Wo ol
jumpe r, 300,
MARQUE S AL ME I D A.

GOLD
L E FT:
Whi te gold and di amo nd
e arri ng ( so ld as pai r) ,
2,980, pi nk go ld and
di amond e arri ng ( so ld as
pai r) , 8,900, pi nk gold

STANDARD and di amo nd ri ng, 11,000,


all CARTIER. Viscose jumper

HOOP
( wo rn unde rne ath) , 1 75,
E KATE RI NA KUKH ARE VA.
C otto n-mi x to p, 540,
MARQUE S AL ME I D A

DREAMS
Mixing MULTISIZE HOOPS is a fresh
way to update your curated ear

Yellow gold earrings,


2,800, B UC C E L L ATI .
18ct gold cuff, 7,925,
E L S A PE RE TTI f o r
TI FFAN Y & C O .
18ct pink gold and pav
diamond ring, 5,100,
B OUC HE RON . Cashmere
jumper, 620, TI B I
OCT

Photographs: Isaac Marley Morgan. Hair: Elvire


Roux at Carol Hayes Management using EVO
Hair. Make-up: Phoebe Walters using MAC
100

Cosmetics. Model: Cassey at Wilhelmina

From top:
18ct white and yellow-gold
ear cuff with diamonds,
4,600, 18ct yellow gold
earring (sold as pair),
ELLE

2,500, both CHANEL F IN E


JEW ELLERY . White gold and
diamond earring, 15,100,
DIOR JOAILLERIE . Viscose-
mix jumper, 695, PRINGLE
OF SCOTLAND
MARKET Leather boots,
880,
MARN I
Leather and elastic
boots, 695,
RUPERT
S A N D E R S ON at Leather hat,
N E T - A - P OR T ER price on request,
MI U MI U

Polyester dress,
M ANG O
35.99,

Techno-nylon trousers, 470, E MPORI O A R M A N I

Leather shoes,
550,
Vinyl coat, 225,
C H L O
HUNTE R ORI GI N AL

Plexiglass
earrings, 160,
and resin brooch,

Latex/PVC trousers,
1,030, E L L E RY
160, both
E M P O R IO
A R MA N I

Plexiglass
shoes, 160,
PVC bra top, 32, EMPORIO
ASO S . Cotton top, 372, ARMANI
C ECILIE BAHNSEN

Polyester skirt,
40,
H! by HENRY
HOLLAND FOR
DEBENHAMS

Leather boots,
835,
h
ELLERY
Photographs: Graham Walser at Hearst Studios.
polyester coat,
S T U TT E RH E IM

Edit: Roberta Hollis, Felicity Kay, Lila Roberts


PVC and
449,

Stretch techno
fabric boots,
695,
J I MMY C H OO
170, C A MP ER
Leather shoes,

PVC trousers,
55, T O P SHO P

ELLE
102 OCT
MAR Leather shoes,
85, VAGABOND

Acetate sunglasses,
234, VAL E NTI NO

Leather bag, 415, Leather

Acetate sunglasses,
253, M I U M I U GIVENCHY BY RIC C ARD O TI S C I shoes,
350,
BY FAR

Shearling jacket, 839,


MARC C AI N

Leather keyring,
25,
POP & S UKI

Suede and leather bag,


Velvet shoes,
169,

1,745, CH L O
WHISTLES
Leather bag,
945,
T O D S

Suede coat,1,510,
L ON GC H AMP

Leather gloves, Goat-skin


415, trousers, 550,
DSQUARED
Z AD I G &
VOL TAI RE
C L AUD I E P I ER L O T

Leather jacket,
465,

Leather belt, 70, YMC

Leather bag
g,
930,
Leather boots, 1,780, P R A D A

S O N I A R YK I E L

Leather bag,
315,
SANDR O
Leather trousers,

Acetate
S ON I A R YK I EL

and metal
1,675,

sunglasses,
273, PRADA

Leather bag, 370,


Alter-suede
EUDON CHOI
shoes, 485,

104
S TE L L A
McC ARTNE Y
ELLE OCT
Corduroy coat
MARKET
with shearling collar,
2,590,
ERMANNO S C E RVI N O

Resin and brass earrings,


225, D I NOS AUR D E S I GN S
Corduroy skirt, 70,
at NE T-A-PORTE R
FR ENCH CONNECTION
Metal
sunglasses, 143,
R A Y- B A N
Wool-mix
jumper, 269,
MARC C AI N .
Leather bag,

Corduroy
T O DS
945,

dungarees,
390,
PAUL & J OE

Resin earrings,
100,
DINOSAUR
Corduroy coat
DESIGNS at
with faux-fur
NET- A- PORTER
collar, 1,758,
M A R C J A CO B S
Suede boots,
225
5,
KARE N MI L L EN

Corduroy
trousers, 425, Corduroy boots,
A.W.A.K.E price on request, E L L E RY
at M AT C HES
FASHIO N

S TUART W E I TZ MAN
Suede boots, 735,
l
Acetate
Corduroy trousers,

sunglasses,
490, A CN E

45, POL A R O I D
trousers, 395,
Corduroy

E TR O

Corduroy
blazer, 690,
Suede bag, MULBERRY
1,098,
J .W.ANDER SO N
Resin and brass earrings,
225, DINOSAUR
DESIGNS at
NET- A- PORTER Leather boots, 85,
VAGABOND
trousers, 215,
AG JEANS

Corduroy

ELLE
105 OCT
MARKET

VALE NT I NO G AR AVANI
Metal bag, 590,
Leather
bag, 365,
TODS

Leather bag, 995,


B URB E RRY

Leather bag,
895,
LO EWE Leather bag, 965, Leather bag,
CHLO 1,095,
B AL E NC I AGA

12 of
the best

Edited by

DONNA
WALLACE

Leather bag, 495,


C OAC H 1 9 4 1

Leather and canvas


bag, 2,610,
LOUIS VUITTON
Velvet bag,
5,290,
FE N D I
Photograph: Graham Walser at Hearst Studios
Leather bag, 280,
FURLA

Nylon bag,
Leather bag, 625,
425, MON CL E R
L ANVI N GAMME R O U G E

ELLE
106 OCT
Denim corset
(worn over shirt),
39, URB AN
OUTFI TTE RS . Cotton
shirt, 50, L E VI S .
Cotton bodysuit
(worn underneath),
39, J OHN L E W I S .
Leather bag,
1,250, GI VE NC H Y .
Denim jeans, 435,
RAL PH L AURE N
C OL L E C TI ON . Styling by
Leather boots, 780,
FE N D I . Plexiglass FELICITY KAY
earrings, 160,
E MPORI O ARMANI

T R Y T H I S :

DOUBLE
DENIM Banish all thoughts
of Britney and Justin
circa 2OO1 from
your mind: done
right, doubling up
on this
WORKWEAR STAPLE
really can
be twice as nice
Photographs: Viet Tran using Instax SQUARE SQ10

RIGHT
Denim jacket, 130,
TOMMY JEANS .
Cotton bodysuit, 39,
JOHN LEWIS . Denim
jeans, 38, ASOS .
Cotton lace belt, price
on application,
ARIES. Leather
shoes, 80, DUNE .
Plastic earrings,

109
85, BIMBA Y LOLA
ELLE OCT
Denim jacket, 580, and denim
jeans, 315, both I S AB E L
MARAN T at NE T-A-PORTE R .
Cotton shirt, 267, FRAME .
Leather bag, 3,900, D I OR.
Plastic earrings, 195, S I MONE
ROC H A at MATC HE S FAS H I ON

Whether your
reference is
AMERICANA
or Eighties rock,
sophisticated
shapes and
CLEAN LINES
make for a
modern retelling
of this denim duo

Celia Evans using NARS. Model: Embrey at Wilhelmina. White leather mules, 365, Dorateymur at Net-a-Porter
Photographs: Viet Tran using Instax SQUARE SQ10. Additional images: Imaxtree, Rex. Hair and make-up:
EMBRACE DARKNESS
D A RK D EN I M M A K ES FOR
A GROW N - UP TA K E ON
T R Y T H I S : TH I S TRI C K Y TREN D . TUC K
Y OUR S H I RT I N FOR TH E

DOUBLE
FUL L C A L V I N K L EI N EFFEC T .

DENIM WHITE ON
WHITE ACCESSORIES WERE
ONCE CONSIDERED OFF-
LIMITS. NOW, THEYRE THE
PERFECT COUNTERPOINT
TO DOUBLE DENIM.

TWO TIMES BLUE


DOUBLING UP ON DENIM
Cotton shirt, 515, RALPH L AURE N C OL L E C TI ON . Short denim skirt, 385, DOESNT HAVE TO MEAN
and long denim skirt (worn underneath), 345, both MARQUE S AL ME I D A A CANADIAN TUXEDO.
at NET- A- P ORTE R . Leather shoes, 199, KG KURT GE I GE R . MAKE LIKE DEBBIE HARRY

110
Leather bag, 585, S ON I A RY KI E L . Metal earrings, 12.99, MAN GO AND MIX UP THE TONES.
ELLE OCT
COLOUR
BLOCKING
THE
GREY
AWAY !
Photographs by Wool coat,
165, & O T H E R S T O R I E S .
JAMES
Cotton shirt, 320,
NELSON M A R Q U E S A L M E I D A .
Cashmere polo neck,
815, B O T T E G A V E N E T A .
Wool and silk,
120, M O D E R N R A R I T Y.
Leather boots, 800,
S T U A R T WE I T Z M A N .
Yellow-gold earrings (just
seen, worn throughout),
2,200, CA R T I E R

Styling by

SOPHIE
VAN DER WELLE

LAYERING clashing, unexpected colours is to


2017 what head-to-toe neutrals was to 2016.
Its the EASY WAY to SERIOUS fashion cred
Wo o l t o p , 39,
A R K ET .
Velvet skirt, 275,
M A X M AR A.
L e a t he r b o o ts, 2 8 9 ,
K U R T G E IGER
L O N D ON

Make your biggest segment of COLOUR


here, a velvet Max Mara skirt the BOLDEST
in your look. All the better to grab the eye

ELLE
119 OCT
COLOUR
BLOCKING
THE
GREY
AWAY ! Wool coat, 2,860,
RALPH LAUREN.
Cotton-blend polo
shirt, 330,
A L E X A CH U N G .
Cashmere-mix jumper,
155, K A T E S P A D E
N E W YO R K .
Polyester boots,
85, R I V E R I S L A N D

Make-up: Yae Pascoe using Nars Cosmetics. Model: Ilvie Wittek at Viva Models
Photographs: James Nelson. Hair: Hiroshi Matsushita using Oribe Hair Care.
Push the CLASSIC CAMEL COAT into modern
territory with a shock of Yves Klein blue
preferably in STILETTO, thigh-high form

ELLE
120 OCT
COLOUR
BLOCKING
THE
GREY
AWAY ! Mohair coat, 119.99,
and wool-mix
bodysuit, 19.99,
both MAN GO .
Wool trousers,
355,
I S AB E L MARAN T .
Leather shoes,
85, VAGAB ON D

Leather boots,
995,
J I M M Y CH O O

Do like the Calvin Klein,


Marni and Prada woman
and let OCHRE, teal and plum Wool blazer,
serve as your BUILDING BLOCKS 630, and wool
trousers, 315, both
PAU L S M I T H .
Leather shoes, 640,
MARNI

Cotton twill
jumpsuit,
800, and cotton
collar, 60, both
KENZO

ELLE
122 OCT
a
pl y
elle

HUSTLE
LISTEN
DISCOVER
THINK
PARTY
Edited by

SHANNON
MAHANTY
Natalia LL, Consumer Art, Photography, 1974, courtesy of lokal_30, Warsaw
XXXXX XXXXXXXX

THIS MONTH IN CULTURE,STARRING


Photographs:

JACK OCONNELL AND FRIEZE ART FAIR


Hes the
award-
winning Words by

SHANNON

actor and MAHANTY

grade-A
charmer
who has
just bared
all for his
latest role.
How Jack
OConnell
hit the

jackpot
Original photographs: Stefan Heinrichs
ELLE
PLAY

Im a shady
individual. Im a hard one
Oi, look at that! Im sitting with Jack OConnell in
the small, leafy courtyard of his favourite Primrose
Hill restaurant, near to his new flat. A flower has just
drifted on to the table from a balcony above, land-
ing directly between us. He picks it up. How ro-
mantic. This feels like a date, this! Jack grins, his
face full of boyish charm.
Its a face Ive seen hundreds of times in the
weeks leading up to our meeting. Across London,
theres barely a station that hasnt, at some point,
been plastered with posters for the Tennessee Wil-
liams play hes starring in opposite Sienna Miller,
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof. Intense and brooding, a top-
less Jack stares from the poster into the eyes of
commuters and tourists. He plays the lead in one of
the years most-hyped productions, a character that
Paul Newman played opposite Elizabeth Taylor in
Illustrations by
the 1958 film adaptation, and an archetypal Ten-
nessee Williams-flawed man. But none of this seems PATRICK WAUGH
to faze Jack. He says of the plays run so far, with
a coy smile: Its going well. Theres a really good
chance Ill not get bored of it. A few weeks later,
I see him on stage. Gone is the boy full of wit and
one-liners, and in his place, derobed, stands Brick,
a failed athlete whose forced masculinity gives way
to stifling sadness and repressed homosexuality.
His performance is startling. The transition from an
alcohol-induced numbness to a climactic display of
vitriol is deeply moving; Jack takes on Bricks sad-
ness with astonishing conviction.
The Jack OConnell I meet today is much less
troubled. Whether its winning the 2015 EE BAFTA
to put your nger on
Rising Star Award, playing a prisoner of war in the Angelina Jolie-directed Unbroken football took centre stage for a long time. When a career in
(he assures me shes as sound as a pound post-Brad Pitt split) or shutting down the the sport was ruled out after a knee injury aged 16, and on the
streets of New York to take George Clooney hostage in Money Monster, nothing ever advice of his drama teacher, Jack auditioned for Nottingham-
seems to temper the northern soul and roguish charisma that made the boy from Derby based drama school The Television Workshop. Gradually,
stand out in the first place. He may be taking interviews in Michelin-starred restaurants, acting became more and more appealing. They did quite a
but the 27-year-old actor is doing it his way: turning up in shorts and trainers, charming bit of theatre, he explains. Being involved with them meant
and chain-smoking his way through. we had an opportunity to [act] at proper theatres such as The
I try to avoid these, Shannon, he explains to me as he tucks into a bowl of crisps on National, and we were just kids. I guess I took it for granted.
the table, but Im a crisp connoisseur. These are mature cheddar and spring onion. Now, that kind of thing happens less and less, doesnt it?
I notice early on that Jack has a tendency to name check during interviews, but he Thats old sexy eyes and her government for you.
assures me that rather than it being something purposeful, a ploy to get an interviewer It was at The Television Workshop that Jack caught the
on side, it just sounds better than love or darling. I tell him I watched Theresa May attention of British film-maker Shane Meadows, who cast him
do the same thing with audience members during the election debates, and his eyes as naive and thuggish teenager Pukey Nicholls in This is Eng-
widen. She does it, too? Really? Shes keen to please, like me. He crunches on an- land. By 2009, an 18-year-old Jack had landed the part of
other crisp. Shes quite a hottie, isnt she? You can say a lot of bad things about her, James Cook, the bad-boy heartthrob in E4s Skins. Such was
but shes got sexy eyes, he says, with a glint in his own. the power of the cult TV show, he still gets tagged in Skins-
Confident and curious, its not surprising that acting comes naturally to Jack, though related Instagram posts on a daily basis. Since then, hes con-
it was never really his plan. I used to go to fancy-dress parties as a builder because tinued his ascent with a run of acclaimed film roles: in 2014s
thats what I thought Id be. My mum would get out her eyeliner and put stubble on my 71, he played a British soldier stranded during the Northern
chin. Growing up, you have different ambitions every week. As a talented athlete, Ireland conflicts. Next, he took on a violent young offender

ELLE
127 OCT
ELLE
PLAY

I ring my nana

twice a week. Shes strong; she


almost cost him a custodial sentence. He can wax lyrical
about most things, but his past is a topic that makes him
flit between ease and agitation. If I could do this all
again, I wouldnt give so much away about myself.
in Starred Up , before playing real-life prisoner of war Louis Zamperini in I wouldnt have people know where Im from because
the Angelina Jolie-directed Unbroken, and an out-of-luck father-to-be in and heres a quote from Ian Brown Its not where
Jodie Fosters Money Monster. Later this year, hell play a 17th-century youre from, its where youre at. Im at a different place
Dutchman in Tulip Fever opposite Alicia Vikander and Cara Delevingne, to where I was then. I certainly wouldnt have eaten this
and a Czech soldier tasked with assassinating a Nazi leader in The Man 10 years ago, he says, knocking back an oyster, then
With the Iron Heart. If theres a common thread between the characters, carefully extracting a bit of shell from his teeth. Do you
its Jack ability to take the disaffected, and play them with humility. In An- want this for a necklace?
gelina Jolies words: Jack has something very unique to him. I challenge Although he worries about being defined by his past,
you to find another young man full of more fire. Cat on a Hot Tin Roofs his hometown of Derby is a huge part of who he is today.
Brick is cruel and unmoving, but its difficult not to empathise with Jacks Hes extremely close to his family, who still live there:
portrayal. On paper, he does some dislikeable stuff, says Jack. But Mr I ring my nana twice a week. Shes super strong, she
[Tennessee] Williams did a good job of the complexities. [Bricks] a re- takes no bullshit. If I say the wrong thing in interviews,
ally obscure character its hard to pigeonhole him. shell have me for it. His mum is dead strong and his
The idea of being pigeonholed, as an actor and in his personal life, sister something else. He surrounds himself with friends
is something Jack brings up a lot. Im a shady individual. Im a hard one from home, not actor or industry types. The overly social
to put your finger on, he explains, lighting a cigarette. Thats why I dont side of this job isnt for me; if you get wrapped up in it all,
like being pigeonholed. Cat on a Hot Tin Roof is his third play, and if you start fangirling or fanboying, thats just a distrac-
life has changed a lot since his first in 2008. His teenage years have tion. I ask if his respect for his friends and family trans-
been well documented: he was often in trouble, and one particular fight lates into all relationships is Jack a good boyfriend?
I have been and I havent been. Relationships have
proven difficult in the past. I felt bad at the time, but listen:
I dont think Im a bad person. Im not a C word. I can
sleep at night. Hes currently single, and says hes
a long way off settling down.
When we talk about his next project, Godless,
a wild-west drama coming to Netflix this autumn starring
Jeff Daniels and Michelle Dockery, it turns out hes not
entirely immune from fanboying himself. To prepare,
Jack had to spend weeks in Mexico City learning to
horse ride at the mercy of real cowboys. I had to put in
the groundwork and win them over, he says proudly.
They were dead cool. By the end, I was one of the boys;
they were calling me Cactus Jack. The cactus part being
added after he rode into one: The horse dodged it, but
the cactus slapped across me, so I ended up with loads
of pricks in my leg. Im there in the desert with me arse
out, trying to get them out, like, Fuck off, fuck off, fuck
off. Despite injury, Jack cant wait to get back on the
horse for a second season. But with a run of sold-out
shows ahead of him, right now both feet are firmly on the
ground. That suits Jack just fine, he tells me, as hes going
back to his flat to paint the decking and have a low-key
afternoon. Because tomorrow, its show time.

takes no bullshit

ELLE
128 OCT
The best in culture and fashion this month IF YOU LIKED... LISTEN TO...

POD PAIRS STRANGER THINGS NIGHT VALE

WERE NOT THE ONLY ONES


OBSESSED WITH PODCASTS:
major TV studios are now looking
to them for their next commission.
With six million monthly listeners,
its no surprise that Aaron
Mahnkes horror podcast Lore
TRANSPARENT NANCY
caught the attention of Amazon

ALL Studios, which has commissioned


a 10-episode TV series starting

ABOUT on 6 October. With Mahnkes


real-life tales now straddling

MOTHER uses vibrant textiles from


podcast and TV form, here are
three more podcast pairings

NATURE Malawi fabric markets


is helping to quash any
remaining stigma attached
to get behind.
INSECURE 2 DOPE QUEENS
FROM FASHION WEEK TO WELCOME TO NIGHT VALE +
to sustainable fashion.
FOOD TRENDS, ETHICAL STRANGER THINGS

DRESSED
Zero waste has also been
LIVING IS GETTING Fortnightly podcast Welcome to
creeping into the food and
A WHOLE LOT OF LOVE Night Vale is a mock radio station
Eco fashion house Ministry of
Tomorrow recently launched
drink scene, with London
pioneering the movement.
revealing cryptic happenings
in a fictional town. Get into it FOR
its own online magazine,
MOT. Issue one celebrates
The Scratch set menu at
Somerset Houses Spring
restaurant is an innovative
alongside the return of Winona
Ryder and co for season two of
the otherworldly Stranger Things.
DINNER
Vivienne Westwoods three-course affair made RESTAURANT UNIFORM
commitment to saving the planet from the days leftovers, GETS A CHIC OVERHAUL
(pictured below) and shines NANCY + TRANSPARENT
while east London cocktail With fashion designers taking
a light on subjects including Super queer, super fun duo
bar Scout grows herbs and to their sketchpads to redesign
bionic yarn and historys Kathy Tu and Tobin Low host
infuses seasonal ingredients the staff attire of some of
most iconic activists. A new Nancy, a podcast exploring
on site. Asparagus, parsnip Londons most iconic hotels
generation of forward-thinking LGBTQ issues. Tune in alongside
and cream are all used in and restaurants, it seems the
creatives such as French gender-identity comedy
cocktails, to delicious effect. service industry has upped its
designer Faustine Steinmetz, Transparent, which, like the
sartorial game. These three
who makes recycled and podcast, veers from side-splitting
establishments are leading
October

hand-woven denim pieces, and humour to searing honesty.


the way, serving food with
Paola Masperi of Mayamiko, a welcome side of style.
an ethically minded label that 2 DOPE QUEENS + INSECURE
From irreverent chat about
Spanx to nuanced debate on
cultural appropriation, no topic
is off limits for 2 Dope Queens,
aka Phoebe Robinson and
Jessica Williams. Pair with Sky
Atlantics Insecure, which offers
similarly insightful commentary
on the black female experience.

Clockwise from left:


Jumpsuit, E M I L I A
WI CK S T E A D F O R
CH I L T E R N F I R E H O U S E .
Utility dress and jumpsuit,
R I CH A R D N I CO L L F O R
S K E T CH . Jumpsuit and
dress, J O H A N N A
ORTIZ FOR ISABEL
ELLE
PLAY

1.

1 . SEX WORK: FEMINIST


ART & RADICAL POLITICS 2.
In a new themed gallery
1. section at the main fair, curator
Alison Gingeras pays homage
to a group of artists who have

FRIEZE : been pivotal to a radical


feminist canon. Transgressing
3. LYNDA BENGLIS
Benglis was one of the first

IN FOCUS sexual mores and often subject


to censorship, it has taken
many of the artists 20 years
sculptors I got into. I loved her
floor pourings and the rubbery
looking fluoro-coloured latex
TOP TIPS FROM ARTIST works that seemingly fell out
or more to be recognised. Look
PHOEBE COLLINGS-JAMES
out for works by American-born of the walls. She shows at 5. JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT
Art fairs can be a little the main fair at the combined Away from Frieze, theres a
Dorothy Iannone.
overwhelming for artists Cheim & Read and Thomas unique chance to see the work
Frieze London is huge, with Dane Gallery. of American artist Jean-Michel
2 . HANNAH BLACK
more than 60,000 visitors Basquiat at the Barbican.
The brilliance of Hannahs
streaming through Regents 4. DONNA KUKAMA I love the fervour with which he
storytelling lies in her ability
Photographs: Jackson Davis/Netflix, Justin Mintz/HBO, Chris Moiser

Park so you will most likely The South African artist paints, managing to translate
to weave together both
find them propping up the bar is presenting a botanical both the anguish and vitality
the passions and anxieties
to relieve the pressure. The display of medicinal plants of his short life in New York.
of her community, which
high point for me, though, is the outside the entrance to Barbican Art Gallery,
includes people of colour
huge selection of work from the fair as part of Frieze 21 September 2017 to
and members of the LGBTQ
galleries across the world. Projects seven non-profit 28 January 2018
community. Her show, part
Second to that is the people commissions being shown.
of Frieze Focus, pulls together
watching the looks are Im interested to see how
the voices of her closest friends
outrageous, with people going the healing aspects of plants
and allies in a collection of
full glam for the opening night.
books and other items. offer what she describes 5.
Outside Frieze itself, galleries as a performance of social
across the city utilise the influx exchange and empathy.
of an international audience
to put on their best shows.
Here are my recommendations 3. 4.
for what not to miss during
Frieze. 58 October

ELLE
133 OCT
RULE OFTHREE I

MEET THE GRIME-INSPIRED


POET TELLING IT LIKE IT IS
Growing up in a Christian family
in south London, poet James
Massiahs earliest inspiration was
a mix of psalms and Dizzee Rascal.
UK grime was a massive influence,
he explains. The music was so real,
and I wanted to marry that with my
reading of the King James Bible.
After attending Brunel University, his
beliefs started to shift; hes now an
atheist, but street culture still feeds
into his work. His project, 27, out
this autumn, is a filmed collection
THE ACTOR PUTTING HOLLYWOOD TO RIGHTS
KIERSEY

Words: Shannon Mahanty. Photographs: Instagram/@Jamesmassiah, Instagram/@Kiersey, Instagram/@Kaliuchis


of poems exploring what its like
AND CALLING OUT SOCIAL INJUSTICES
to live through a cycle of violence.
In 2007, 26 young people were
shot or stabbed in London. This story
is about the twenty-seventh, the one
CLEMONS Actor Kiersey Clemons is no stranger to taking on diverse roles:
in the remake of Nineties sci-fi thriller Flatliners, she plays a student
experiencing the afterlife; later this year, she is reporter Iris West in
who evaded it, he says. I want Justice League, and also stars in the horror film Sweetheart. Like Amandla Stenberg and Rowan Blanchard,
people to broaden their notions Kiersey is part of a generation of actors committed to calling out injustice: in April, she tweeted to her 75k
of what poetry is. I write in a way fans, Our pay (as women) is determined not by talent but [by] followers, and Im done pretending its not.
thats interesting to read, whether But shes sceptical about actor/activist labels: Its easy to write a tweet, but were not going to make
Im present or not. Thats poetry. change by sitting behind our computers, she says. You cant turn speaking about politics into a trend: I want
Visit jamesmassiah.com things to come from a genuine place. Flatliners is out 29 September, Justice League is out 17 November

KALI
UCHIS THE COLOMBIAN SINGER MAKING
WAVES IN MODERN SOUL

Kali Uchis cites Aretha Franklin and Astrud Gilberto as her heroes, and
though their influence is tangible (her music veers from soul to beat-laden
R&B), her own style is distinctly 2017. Tyrant is Kalis dancefloor-ready
post-apocalyptic love song, while dancehall-infused Ridin Round is the
perfect antithesis to years of male bravado in hip-hop. The singer was
18 when she released her first mixtape, Drunken Babble, but shed
already spent years forging a name for herself making and selling clothes
to her classmates. My dad was homeless as a child; he raised me to
be hard-working. I grew up learning to be innovative, she says. Born in
Northern Virginia and raised between there and Pereira, Colombia, Kali
is now LA-based. Aside from still making her own clothes (think Brigitte
Bardot meets Nicki Minaj), its her music thats now taking centre stage.

ELLE
134 OCT
October ELLE
PLAY

ON THE
FRONT
LINE OF
The best in culture and fashion this month

FASHION
THE DOCUMENTARY
WORTH STAYING IN FOR
Alongside Miu Miu model, THE
Twin Peaks actress and fashion
writer, Hailey Gates can also WORK IT GREAT
add TV host to her CV. This
month, shes fronting a second
a new generation of Liberian
culture. With so much conflict, ART-
GET YOUR SIDE HUSTLE
season of the Vice documentary
States of Undress. This is
a show about women, says
fashion weeks are a way to
show visibility a marker of
being on the world stage.
DOORS
OFF THE GROUND
First came the slashies
a generation of workers who
NOT ALL ART WORKS BEST
Gates, who travels to areas of Romania is the hub of the could happily accompany
INSIDE A GALLERY...
conflict to uncover subversive European webcam industry. one career with two more:
For the past three years, street
fashion against a backdrop I met some sex vloggers at the the actress/model/DJ or the
artist Lakwena MacIver has
of political unrest. Most height of a communist protest waitress/web developer.
been brightening up streets
organisations wont send people cant find a job to Now its all about the side
from Vienna to Vegas with
someone to these places to save their lives, yet there is this hustle defined by bestselling
colourful graphic murals.
cover fashion because they booming industry of camming New York Times author Chris
I cant get too attached, says
want hard news, she says. and women can make eight Guillebeau as an income-
Lakwena, you never know
I understand that but hope dollars a minute at home. For generating project that you
when theyll be knocked down
there is interest in talking about the most part, men just call in start without quitting your day
or painted over! Elsewhere,
things other than conflict in to talk its basically therapy. job. Guillebeaus latest book,
Bristol street artist 45RPM has
these places. We spoke to We filmed an episode at a Side Hustle: From Idea to
made a name for himself by
Gates about what to expect concealed gun show in Ohio. Income in 27 Days, claims
tagging the city with cheerful
Liberia Fashion Week was There was a male-dominated anyone with an idea can start
cartoons, while Camille Walala
a lot of fun. The women who industry making gun-concealing a side hustle within a month.
transforms drab concrete walls
organise it want to showcase clothes for women until female The key? Dedicating half an
across the UK with bright
entrepreneurs started making hour a day to the project.
geometric designs (pictured
these pieces themselves, Side Hustle: From Idea to
below). Artist and founder
because they understood their Income in 27 Days (12,
of Obey clothing Shepard
bodies better than men. Its Crown) is out on 5 October
Fairey recently completed his
amazing entrepreneurship,
biggest ever mural in Sydney
surrounded by complicated
find his work closer to home
political issues.
at the Envision Peace mural
States of Undress is on
in north London.
Wednesdays throughout
the month on Viceland

ELLE
136 OCT
ELLE
138 OCT

UEENS
ar c anging
are ng nng orr women
wom
o n inn lm
mss an
l
l
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PLAY
TV WOMEN
to up-end cinematic cliches about
kick-ass women. It will be directed by
Reed Morano, who also oversaw the
first three episodes of Channel 4s The
Handmaids Tale, the brutal, brilliant

We have a long
CHRISTINA HENDRICKS adaptation of Margaret Atwoods
Tin Star, Sky Atlantic novel, which dared to show a horrific
near-future America where womens
rights have been suppressed by
politicians who do not look dissimilar
Early on in this years Wonder Woman movie, theres a scene in to some sitting in Washington today.

way to go, but there is a will to


which actor Gal Gadots no-nonsense demigod Diana bursts into It takes far less time for TV shows to
a meeting of British military and political elite all men, naturally as go from idea to screen and, in many
they attempt to negotiate an end to the First World War. They bluster YARA SHAHIDI ways, streaming services have led
at the sight of a woman in their presence, not so much angered as Black-ish, E4
the way by being quicker to grasp
perplexed: what could she possibly have to offer?
the obvious fact that women consume
Its an analogy for many of the stories that have been told in
media, too. Studies have shown that
mainstream films and TV programmes over the past few decades.
women actually watch more TV than
Women are under-represented on both sides of the camera; far too
men, with female viewers averaging
often theyre written as cliches if theyre written about at all. The
three hours per week watching on
lack of substantial roles for women on screen made it necessary for
demand TV series half an hour
a scale to be invented, the Bechdel test, which discerns whether or MAGGIE GYLLENHAAL
not a film portrays its female characters in a sexist or stereotypical The Deuce, Sky Atlantic more than their male counterparts*.
way. (To pass the test, the film must feature at least two named Services like ours, serving different
women talking to each other about something other than a man an demographic groups, are willing to
Europacorp, See-Saw Films (TOTL2) Holdings Pty Ltd, Beth Dubber/Netflix, Erica Parise/Netflix, HBO, Myles Aronowitz/Netflix, Sky, AllStar/Screen Gems

astonishing amount of movies still fail it.) There used to be a notion that take more perceived risks on programming, including the portrayal of
films with female leads could never make money. Wonder Woman characters that break the norm, explains Cindy Holland, VP of original
has lassoed that into oblivion. Even better, shes done it with a smart, content at Netflix, who is responsible for shows like Jessica Jones, 13
*Data from Ericsson study of self-reported time spent watching TV, Statistica.com. Photographs: Allstar/Warner Bros, Helen Sloan/HBO, Allstar/

witty story thats also directed by a woman, Patty Jenkins. But still, Reasons Why and GLOW. These include women, who, after all,
according to the Center for the Study of Women in Television and make up half the worlds population and represent roughly half our
Film, in 2016, just 7% of all directors working on the top 250 grossing member base it is only natural for us to programme for them. And
films in the US were women. it shows. Netflix romcom The Incredible Jessica Jones starred Jessica
Theres a lot of work to be done, but it feels as if we could be at the Williams, co-host of the hugely popular podcast 2 Dope Queens, who
beginning of a sea change where stories about women, and for women, at one point in the film delivers the line, Of course you do! Everyone
are no longer niche concerns. Wonder Woman will be back in Justice does. Im freaking dope, in response to a guy admitting he really likes
League later this year, alongside her old friend Batman. Luc Bessons her. The standout episode of the last season of Master of None was all
massive and expensive epic Valerian starred Cara Delevingne in the about Denise (Lena Waithe), the best friend of Aziz Ansaris character,
lead role. And its not just sci-fi and superhero movies: the upcoming Dev. It was directed by rising star Melina Matsoukas, whose previous
Daphne is a low-key British indie that takes a Fleabag-style approach credits include Beyoncs Formation video and episodes of HBO/
to the story of a misanthropic woman struggling to process a trauma. Sky Atlantics Insecure, starring Issa Rae. Insecure is another critically
Less low-key is Battle of the Sexes, out acclaimed comedy showing a womans perspective on dating in LA.
in November, with Emma Stone playing There are also more boundary-defying shows to come this autumn.
womens tennis pioneer Billie Jean King in FILM WOMEN The Deuce (Sky Atlantic), a new series about the rise of the porn
the run-up to her infamous match against industry in Seventies New York, may not sound like an insta-feminist
Bobby Riggs, which is as much a story classic, but Maggie Gyllenhaal, who stars, has been keen to allay
about feminism as it is sport. concerns. I didnt know if I could play a prostitute without some kind
After six decades, even Doctor Who of guarantee that they wanted to use not just my body but also my
(BBC One) is moving with the times. The mind, she said in a recent interview, deciding the best way to solve
13th Doctor will be played by Jodie the problem was to become a producer on the show.
Whittaker, a first in the shows history. EMILY BEECHAM Nicole Kidman had two great TV roles this year, first in the female-
In Atomic Blonde, we saw Charlize Daphne, 29 September
led Big Little Lies, and then in the return of Top of the Lake (BBC Two),
Theron flexing some serious martial arts directed by Jane Campion. She also starred in Sofia Coppolas The
as a super-spy, while Bond producers Beguiled alongside Colin Farrell (who Coppola joked was their
Barbara Broccoli and Michael G Wilson token male). At the Cannes Film Festival in May, Kidman pledged to
have cast Gossip Girls Blake Lively in work with a female director at least every 18 months. Hopefully it will
their new assassin-led thriller The Rhythm change over time, but everybody keeps saying, Oh, its so different
Section. It feels that finally, after much now, and it isnt, she told a press conference, a reminder that change
focus on the lack of opportunities for ELLEN PAGE
Flatliners, 29 September is slow. Its also a reminder that recognising a problem, speaking up,
woman and a lot of effort from multiple
and taking action is the only way to speed change up. After all, what
organisations, things are beginning to
would Wonder Woman do?
change, says Broccoli. We still have a
long way to go before we have diversity
and representation in our industry, but
there is a strong will to initiate change.
Its not a female 007, but it does promise
EMMA STONE
Battle of the Sexes,
initiate change
24 November
ELLE Literary editor Sharmaine Lovegrove picks
the books to devour this month
BOOK
CLUB FOREST DARK
by Nicole Krauss
(Bloomsbury)
An intricate mystery LET US BE TRUE
by Alex Christofi
that follows the
(Serpents Tail)
parallel stories of
68-year-old New An evocative love
SUGAR MONEY Yorker Jules Epstein story centering around
THE BURNING GIRL by Jane Harris and a young Brooklyn- Ralf and Elsa, who
by Claire Messud (Fleet) (Faber & Faber) based writer, who both meet at a bar in Paris in
Childhood friends Julia Martinique, 1765: two travel to Tel Aviv and the Fifties. But can their
and Cassie shared brothers are told to become embroiled in love resist the pasts
everything, but as they return to Grenada life-changing events. theyre hiding from
grow up, their lives and smuggle back each other?
take very different slaves. Adventure and
paths, with devastating intrigue ensues.
consequences.

BLUEBIRD, BLUEBIRD THE BREAK

Photographs: Graham Walser at Hearst Studios


by Attica Locke by Marian Keyes
HOME FIRE
(Serpents Tail) (Penguin)
by Kamila Shamsie
DEMI-GODS
SEVEN DAYS OF US HISTORIES By the writer and Amy and Hugh are (Bloomsbury)
by Eliza Robertson
by Francesca Hornak by Sam Guglani (Riverrun) producer of Emmy- on a six-month break. When the families of (Bloomsbury)
(Piatkus) Set over one week in winning TV show Hugh is off to lose Londoner Isma and A bold debut novel
When the Birch family a hospital, this original, Empire, this page- himself in south-east the handsome son from a buzzed-about
is forced to spend thoughtful and insightful turning, Chicago-set Asia, while Amy is left of a powerful British author, this is a story
Christmas together novel by oncologist thriller is a timely story to find herself among Muslim politician, about nine-year-old
for the first time in Guglani gives us a on the collision of race the everyday. A novel Eamonn, become Willa, whose life is
years due to dramatic first-hand account of life and justice in the US. about overcoming inextricably linked, turned upside down by
circumstances, a week at the heart of the NHS. obstacles in order to the consequences the arrival of her new
starts to feel like years. live your best life. are explosive. stepbrothers.

MY BOOKS ARE A BIG PART OF MY LIFE AND I REFERENCE THEM ALL DAY FOR BOTH WORK AND PLEASURE.
THIS DREAM SHELF ENCOMPASSES ALL THINGS I LOVE: FASHION, DESIGN, PHOTOGRAPHY AND TRAVEL.

SHELF ALEX EAGLE, CREATIVE DIRECTOR

ELLE
140 OCT
ELLE
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READING:
At the moment Im
catching up on lots of
issues of The Week.

EATING:
Rochelle Canteen is
great its part of an
arts hub in east London.

Photographs by

BELLA
HOWARD

MY Words by

BILLIE

WORLD
DAIS HOPP
BHATIA

SHOPPING:
As far as interiors go,
I dont have one
place I prefer to pick
things up from various
shops. That said,
PRIMPING:
locally, Rooms of
MAC mascara
Clapton is a favourite.
its just the best.
For clothes, you cant
beat Dover Street
COVETING:
Market.
Id love a pair of Cline
pearl earrings, or a
Rimowa suitcase.

WEARING:
A Ganni silk
leopard-print skirt.
DRINKING:
I prefer pubs to bars,
but the Chess Club
in Mayfair has a
I DONT THINK I HAVE A STYLE, AS SUCH I know what particularly lovely bar.
I love and I know what I love collecting, says Daisy Hoppen. With her I do like a good
eye for spotting new talent, the London-based publicist has made a name pinot noir, but
Im also a fan of a
for herself within the fashion world as the woman to approach in order to
tequila, served with lots
discover the next big thing. Its a skill she honed working across the worlds
of ice and lime.
of fashion and art for her clients Dover Street Market, Molly Goddard,
the Michael Hoppen Gallery (owned by her father) and more.
Its no real surprise, then, that her home overlooking Hackney Downs,
which she shares with her boyfriend, fashion consultant Paul-Anthony
Smith, and cat, Olive, is a treasure trove of art, clothing and collectibles
by emerging names and established artists all

I didnt grow
pieces shes used to put her stamp on the space.
The apartment is actually my boyfriends,
so over the years I have tried to de-bachelorify
it, starting with photographs. The amazing thing
about photography is its quite an inexpensive up in a clean
medium to start collecting in. And one of our walls
is covered in strange paintings and pictures weve aesthetic
picked up over the years: things that friends of
ours have done, mixed with more serious works environment:
from my fathers gallery or artists such as Sarah
Moon and Alex Prager. I was
Set in an old Georgian townhouse, their
space reveals an obvious synergy between Daisy surrounded
and Paul-Anthonys collections his wall of vinyl
records and DJ decks and her bookshelf of fashion
hardbacks which gives the place a charming
eclecticism. The light, which streams in from the
by colour
park across the street, gives the house an airy, leafy feel, something that
self-confessed near-hoarder Daisy says balances out the abundance of
miniature vases, tiny toy cars, African figurines and mismatched cushions
she has on show. She loves searching regional flea markets, car-boot
sales, charity shops (though shes quick to note she avoids university cities)
and Etsy. But when it comes to bigger investments, she consults close
friend and curator Antonia Marsh.
I didnt grow up in a clean aesthetic environment I was surrounded
by colour, print and texture, she explains. Daisy spent her childhood in
southwest London before eventually settling in east London as an adult
(after moving between Brixton, Clapham and Tooting). Now, I like things
that I didnt think were cool growing up. I find items that belonged to COLLECTING:
my parents and love them. My father is obsessed with crocodiles and My mother gave me
octopuses and collects a lot of taxidermy, and while that is not quite to a box of ribbons that
my taste, I have held the Moroccan rugs hostage at my place. I constantly add to.
Her time spent travelling has been just as influential on her interior I use them as finishing
touches for my hair,
style as her parents: her work regularly takes her to Copenhagen and
gift wrapping and
Paris, and when shes off-duty, she splits her time between the family home
table settings.
in Majorca and London. But its India that inspires her most. If I could
move to another city, it would be Mumbai. I love the colours, the people,
the food, the chaos. And it just feels like one of those cities where exciting
things can happen. We have some really amazing old Indian prints on
the walls at home, and every time I look at them I want to be back there.
It has influenced her on the food front as well: I love hosting dinner
parties. Curry is my go-to recipe or anything in the slow cooker, she
says. And my girlfriends and I do a day called Bitch Perfect, where we
go around to each others houses on a Saturday, eat chips and dips and
watch Nineties films. Its heaven.

ELLE
145 OCT
Illustration by

JP THURLOW
our rented front doors firmly behind us, the proliferation of the term go-
ing out out (on social media, in the press, in the pub) would indicate
otherwise. For me, going out usually means showing face at a friends
birthday before a back-door-exit around 11pm. But going out out is
popping out for one, because its Wednesday, only to find myself, four
parties deep, at a basement members club, shoes in hand, at 4am. Go-
ing out out is spontaneity, its an open mind, its getting glammed up for
no reason and its a massive Uber receipt the next day.
While weekends have always been for escaping the monotony of
ELLE VOICE the nine-to-five, when people are faced with a worrying socio-political
climate, there is even more of a need to let go. According to psychiatrist

LETS
Dr Jeremy Beider, when the political or economic environment is anxie-
ty-provoking, we find ourselves seeking out greater social connection to
combat stress. He cites dancing as particularly rejuvenating.
Indeed, youth culture has always managed to shake off the blues
on the dance floor in times of crisis, from the Prohibition to David Has-

GO
selhoffs 1989 Berlin Wall gig and the acid-house movement that smiled
in the face of Thatchers cuts. Manhattans Studio 54 opened in the
aftermath of Watergate and the Vietnam War to become a hedonistic
epicentre. Closer to home, Eighties London saw the Blitz Kids named
after the Blitz Club in Covent Garden where they all went birth the

OUT
New Romantic movement as the country swore in another Conservative
government. And now, more than ever, people are going out in search
of those dance floors, where we can stomp out our worries and feel con-
nected in an ever-fragmenting society.
Its why I find myself at Celestial Dance Party, a club night at the
recently opened Five Miles in Londons Seven Sisters (and named af-

OUT
ter its distance from the city centre). Owned by 32-year-old Deano Jo,
who co-runs Real Gold, the company responsible for opening Dalstons
cult venue The Alibi in 2010 (think New York dive bar meets your living
room), Five Miles was intended as a club that avoided any stereotypes
(too dark, too expensive) a place
where you know you can bump into
friends and hear interesting music.
It started as a quiet drink in a pub but you stil As soon as I get in, Im taken aback
by Five Miles understated opu-
got dressed up because, well, you never know. lence: a sweeping, polished con-

Thank God you did by 1am youve been to crete bar, an adjoining cloistered
dancefloor framed by discreet
three parties and are heading to a club where neon-pink lighting and a sound
system to rival any of Londons su-
youll dance until sunrise. Nellie Eden reports on per-clubs. Stylish girls in a mixture

the rise of hedonism (even on a school night!) of metallic heels, flares and mini
skirts puff on cigarettes outside,
while boys in trainers clog up the
bar area. The dancefloor is sweaty
with revellers getting to know each
Its 4am and I cant remember how I got to the dancefloor. Im wearing other and letting loose to dancehall music.
a see-through red lace dressing gown by Eric Schlsberg with red knick- Five Miles is now considered one of the capitals most thriving clubs,
ers and nothing else in a palazzo in Milan. Ive just ripped the hem, but alongside east Londons Oval Space, which is known for day raves such
Im six negronis down and I dont care. as those put on by Secretsundaze, Shoreditchs XOYO, feted for its big-
Ive been flown to Italy for a Gucci party, along with 15 of Londons time DJ summer residencies, and Phonox in Brixton, where fan-boys con-
biggest new-wave party kids: among them artist Margot Bowman, pho- gregate to see their favourite house and techno acts. These spaces are
tographer Lea Colombo and party influencer (yes, its a thing) Cora filling a void, particularly with more than half of Londons clubs closing
Delaney. To my left, Kendall Jenner is grinding with A$AP Rocky. To down in the past eight years (this came to a head last year as iconic ven-
my right, Jared Leto, in obligatory Gucci florals, is being barged out of ue Fabric was shut down; it subsequently reopened after public outcry).
the way so people can dance to the Seventies funk thats now making Less formalised parties, including outdoor raves on Hackney Marshes,
the walls and chandeliers in the ballroom reverberate. I have thrown my are becoming more popular, promoted via word-of-text or Facebook
Gucci mules down the other end of the room so I can dance freely. Ive groups. Safe space nights, run by PoC (people of colour), non-binary
no idea where or when this night will end. and feminist groupings, such as Bbz (a DJ duo), gal-dem (a PoC platform)
Im not always this carefree. I definitely dont spend every weekend and Pxssy Palace (a collective), have also joined the going out out cir-
partying with A$AP Rocky; mostly, I worry about my rent money and cuit. According to Jo, these alt-nights are happening now because peo-
whether Ill be able to afford my weekly shop. So why, and also how, do ple are dictating the cultures, rather than venues, artists or press, which is
I find myself out, more and more, long into the wee hours? And I know refreshing. Its also nice that whats happening in the crowd is becoming
Im not the only one asking this question. Despite last years reports in- of equal importance to whats happening on the stage does it feel
dicating that millennials had made a collective decision to get into the nice in there? Is it a mixed crowd?
recovery position, download Deliveroo, subscribe to Netflix and close Do people dance and let go?
ELLE
149 OCT
ELLE
VOICE Last years ELLE Style Awards embodied this key change, too. Lon-
don drag collective Sink The Pink got the after-party started, French
designer Jacquemus danced on the podium for most of the night with
editor-in-chief Anne-Marie Curtis, and Beth Ditto had to, reluctantly, shut
the party down. And where the fashion pack is involved, nightspots be-
come subject to changing trends. While Sohos La Bodega Negra and
The Box were must-dos five years ago, by 2015, Chiltern Firehouse and
Sexy Fish were the only places to be seen.
Like the collections, every season we wait to hear which new venue
has been christened worthy. Right now, its Isabel in Mayfair, which
opened in March this year on Albemarle Street and is the newest go-
ing out out destination, where decadence comes as standard. Isabels
decor is fittingly sumptuous: a mirrored, black bar caterpillars through
the main room and is book-ended by real trees, while brass lamps give
the illusion of golden light. The poster-boy proprietor, Juan Santa Cruz,
a financier-turned-restaurateur from Chile
via Buenos Aires, doesnt really give a damn

Everyone works so about any formalities that might go into a


good time, recently explaining: Im Latin.

hard, so when you


As far as I am concerned, the more the mer-
rier. I love it when a table for three becomes
a table for nine. While the majority of the

go out out, you give


menu is carb-, lactose-, sugar- and gluten-
free, with dishes such as half a dozen quail
eggs with spice salt on offer, the famous

yourself the platform lock-ins sound contrastingly carefree. Sienna


Miller and Cara Delevingne have ushered in
the early hours there alongside Santa Cruz

to be the newest and his extended guest list of friends.


Like Santa Cruz, 48-year-old Alex Proud,

version of you
who founded the Proud group in 1998,
a business made up of two galleries, a
nightclub in Camden and multiple cabaret
venues, has a party-boy reputation that pre-
cedes him. Proud, who begins our conversa-
tion by telling me about a Babyshambles gig
On the fashion circuit, where going out out has been embraced, in the early Noughties where he had to drag Pete Doherty, Carl Bart
the biggest parties now happen on a Wednesday or Thursday night and one of the Gallaghers off-stage, assures me that hes calmed down
(weekends are actually seen as downtime for Generation Y) and ELLEs (Im old now) but that the entertainment industry has never been in
accessories editor Donna Wallace would know. I dont make dinner ruder health. Last year, Proud considered closing Proud Camden
plans on a Thursday night because I know therell be something on, she down, but is relieved he didnt. Like Chanel No.5 or LBDs at Christmas,
says. Wallace is invited to more events than she can attend and brings partying has never gone out of fashion. Theres never been a better, saf-
a change of clothes to the office every day. By the end of the week er, more creative time to party in London. We host hip-hop brunches all
theres a bag under my desk with all the best pieces from my wardrobe! weekend at Proud for 270 people and they get dressed up like theyre
Wallace says she goes out out much more often now: I dont blink an going out out.
eye if Im home past 3am on a Tuesday. For me going out out is about Another key player on Londons party circuit, feted for her ability to
not organising anything. Its dressing up even if youre meeting friends draw the best crowds, is Mandi Lennard, who has earned the moniker
at a dingy pub, because who knows where youll end up? Its about an East Londons Party Godmother. Shes as energised by this renewed
evening snowballing. lust for proper partying as she is by the freshest personalities defining
I ask if, as a style editor, she recognises consistent late-night fashion the moment. She cites HMLTD, an avant-garde six-piece band, as the
trends. Nope. I think as Brits we love to dress down when we shouldnt, hottest name on the scene right now: There seems to be a new sophisti-
and vice versa. Marc Bremner MacDonald, who works as a PR for cation, in that clubbing is a platform for their creative portrayal of them-
Dazed Media, which organises some of the biggest fashion parties, selves. These post-art-school disruptors are the band that event organ-
agrees about the death of the dress code. These days, people come isers are desperate to get on their guest lists for their outrageous looks
dressed in what they feel comfortable wearing whether thats Alaa or but, more critically, for their ability to cause a stir wherever they go.
a sack. Glamour is people taking pride in their identity. Now, the type of glamour the next generation is seeking cant al-
Wallace is adamant that fashion parties are no longer for stiff ways be paid for. Going out out is about celebrating life, individual-
networking, either. Oh my gosh, no! she says. Take the recent Tiffany ism, freedom and experimentation. As Lennard says: Everyone works
& Co. party where TLC performed. The venue was tiny. The stage was so hard, so when you go out, you give yourself the platform to be the
basically in the crowd. Everyone was there to dance and relax, she newest version of you. I think thats the best gift London gives you and
says. Another London-based editor noted this change of attitude up that you can give to yourself. Amy Lam, who was appointed night czar
close at the Gatsby -esque opening of Londons The Ned. It was bac- by Londons mayor Sadiq Khan and tasked with the job of turning Lon-
chanalian, debauched and opulent. I havent been to a party like that don into a 24-hour city, agrees. Night clubs are places where lifelong
since the early Noughties. There was champagne flowing and people relationships are formed and hearts are broken, where you find your
dancing on tables. There was no roped-off VIP area, so you could enjoy family and discover your true self. So much of Londons life can be found
the glow of celebrity and the celebrities could feel at ease knowing they on the dancefloor. Now, are you seriously thinking of staying
were mingling in a trusted crowd. in tonight?

ELLE
150 OCT
Collage by

ADAM HALE
AT

THE DAILY SPLICE

ELLE
152 OCT
As a health-conscious person who has guzzled down the green juice
Kool-Aid and lives by the mantra that what you put into your body 100%
affects what you get out of it, I realise that I am spectacularly unaware
of my own hormones. Up until now, I havent properly acknowledged
that, as a 31-year-old woman on the pill, my body is making absolutely
none of its own oestrogen and progesterone (the two main female sex
hormones). Ive been on the pill for 10 years and Im beginning to notice
ELLE VOICE changes in my body and my mood that I dont feel in control of.
Of course, age plays a big part. Its only since turning 30 that I start-

HORMONES :
ed noticing changes (weight gain around my middle and mood swings
that make my boyfriend hide in the pub). Naturally, our hormones start
to decline from about 27 onwards, Dr Roked tells me when I go to see
her for a consultation at Omniya, a health clinic in Knightsbridge. No

ITS TIME TO wonder studies show that 27 is the age of the quarter-life crisis.
When you ask women when they felt at their prime, most will say
their late twenties, Dr Roked explains. Then, suddenly, theyre like, Oh

PUT YOUR God, Im 30 now, I cant drink as much, I need to exercise more. For
men, the age at which their hormones start to decrease is later, but Dr
Roked emphasises that women in their early twenties can still suffer ter-

MONEY ribly from hormonal health. It is more complicated in women: too much
progesterone and you feel moody, sluggish and tired, but if you have
too little, you feel the same as well its about getting the optimum level.

WHERE YOUR Dr Roked had sown the seed: I immediately want to find my optimum
level, so, after a blood test to measure my testosterone (important for
womens mood, sex drive and muscle strength), I leave with an adrenal

MOUTH IS stress kit. Adrenals are glands that sit above your kidneys and produce
the stress hormone cortisol, which
is the hormone linked to the bodys
fight-or-flight response. Last year,
a nutritionist loosely diagnosed

Mood, hunger, sex, sleep... Hormones me with adrenal fatigue when


your adrenal glands are function-
inuence far more than you think. And ing below their optimum level and

as the wellness industry becomes more causing symptoms such as tired-


ness and an inability to handle

bespoke, hormonal health is the latest stress but I never did a test for it.
The kit consists of four saliva col-
frontier. Hannah Nathanson gets a taste lection tubes (gulp) and some very

for this new era of medicine complicated instructions. Im both


intrigued and terrified of what the
test results will reveal. Do I really
want to know?
Hormonal health is a growing
Hormones make good headlines: Cant park the car? Blame your hor- area of medicine and part of the wellness trend for much more bespoke
mones!, Want to buy sexy clothes? It might be in your hormones. Its treatments and therapies, not just a one-size-fits-all solution. According
part of the reason Ive always known that hormones can dictate your mood to Dr Amalia Annaradnam, who co-founded The London Hormone Clinic
but had never given much thought to how my own might be affecting my and prescribes bio-identical hormone replacement therapy (using body-
health. Its also why, when it comes to hormonal health, two moments identical hormones made from living organisms, such as Mexican yams,
in a womans life stand out: PMT and menopause. Cue another shouty to restore balance), Its a new era of medicine. There will be more
headline: Our house of horrid hormones: A mother on the nightmare coming out on hormones over the next year or two because its such a
of going through menopause while her teenage daughter hits puberty. big topic. Dr Roked, who also offers genetic testing to determine how
But hormone health is far more nuanced than such hyperbolic head- your health is affected by your DNA blueprint, agrees: You can get
lines would have you think. To get the sciency bit out of the way, hor- your cheek swab done and find out the best diet for your body. You
mones are the bodys chemical messengers produced by glands; they can also see how your body metabolises hormones, so you can use this
trigger activity in different parts of the body and regulate the function of information to your advantage. You might need to take supplements to
cells and organs. There are sex hormones, hunger hormones, love hor- promote or handle your hormone production. Shes not too concerned
mones, happy hormones and stress hormones (among others). If these that, at a cost of 900, taking one of these tests isnt exactly available
are out of whack, they could cause any number of modern-day ailments, to the masses, In 10 years time, its not going to be so expensive
from insomnia to burnout and bloating. And, as Im slowly learning, bal- everybody will be getting it done. Personalised healthcare is going to
ance is key. be the way forward.
According to Dr Sohre Roked, a hormone specialist who sees a After an evening deciphering the adrenal kit instructions, I wake up
range of symptoms in patients, including exhaustion, fertility issues and at 6am the next day to prepare myself for the first sample (one hour after
weight gain, Hormones are really the foundations to your body. If your waking and after no food or drink other than water). Spitting into a vial
hormones arent right, it doesnt matter what youre doing with your diet is far from glamorous, but finding a freezer at work to conserve the sam-
and lifestyle, because your foundations are shaky. So if we can get the ples proves much more difficult. Eventually, I find one on the executive
foundations right, everything can flow much better. floor and post the samples to the lab at the end of the day. As I wait for
ELLE
VOICE Central to Cowans practice is our ability to land in the present,
where youre not guarded, not pretending, not worried youre still.
Through a series of gentle postures, breathing and stretching, Carolyn
shows me how to do just this. She explains that when people come into
her classes, their bodies are filled with adrenaline, testos-
terone and cortisol. What she does is try to allow people to
ADAPTOGENS
tune in, balance themselves and stimulate happy hormones
These plant supplements,
my results, I start to research other areas of health such as dopamine and serotonin, our bodys natural anti-
including ashwagandha,
that are linked to hormones and learn that nutrition depressants that eat our stress hormones.
maca and ginseng, help
and in particular gut health is huge. I like the idea of my stress hormones being eaten and,
balance hormone levels.
According to nutritional therapist Eve Kalinik, thinking back to the adrenal test I took and the pending re-
Find adaptogens in the
95% of serotonin, the key hormone that affects your sults, I want to find more ways to achieve this state of calm
I AM blends range by
mood, is produced in your gut. The gut is involved and switch off for an hour. It turns out that one of the best
Naomis Kitchen.
in many hormonally related conditions that might ways is through sound therapy. As a committed yogi, hor-
be felt very far from the gut itself, she tells me. We mone yoga didnt seem too alien, but
often think of thyroid hormones as being in the thyroid gland, but in fact BROCCOLI AND a sound bath might be a step too far
20% of our thyroid hormones get converted in the gut, which has a mas- MUSTARD POWDER into hippy-dippy-dom. I speak to sound
sive impact on our metabolism. Eve has dedicated an entire chapter to Boost broccolis powers therapist Louise Shiels before one of
hormones in her recently published book Be Good to Your Gut , which by pairing it with mustard her sessions and she assures me: I get
explores how supporting the gut, and all the trillions of microorganisms powder. Nutritionist Eve a lot of people who have never tried it
in it, can help achieve a happy hormonal balance. Kalinik suggests adding to before and they are converted every
I ask whether there are any superfoods that help hor- vinaigrette and drizzling time. I am one of those people.
mone health. Brassicas, such as broccoli, cauliflower over broccoli. Sound therapy works by inducing
and kale. Broccoli is a pin-up for health foods, but with calm brain waves that put your body in
good reason. These foods contain a compound that repair mode. Were normally in beta
helps the body to metabolise oestrogen. But Kalinik is HORMONE mode the active mind. When we slow down we
quick to stress that you cant just rely on adding broccoli
to your diet. You need to have a healthy gut to get the
benefits from it. Avocados are a really good stress food
HACKS: go into alpha, and we go into theta brain waves
when we are drifting off to sleep. When these
are activated, the parasynthetic nervous system is
as they contain good levels of the pantothenic acid our How to get switched on, which is responsible for controlling
adrenals need, but it only works to a point. back in balance all the bodys systems. During the hour-long ses-
So my diet could help me manage my stress levels, sion in a whitewashed studio in east London, we
but I need to make sure I eat in a calmer lie under blankets while Louise plays the gongs.
environment and not at my desk. If you At one point I open my eyes to see whats going on, and its like an
shut your laptop and dont eat with your
THE RABBIT POSE intense game of sleeping lions everyone is completely still and very
Like childs pose but with
work around you, its amazing how zen. Theres a crescendo towards the end before Louise plays chimes
arms stretched back to hold
much better you feel. It even affects to break the gong frequencies and were brought back to earth. Its one
the soles of your feet and
things like your hunger levels, says of the best hours Ive spent all week and makes me feel calm about the
with your chin tucked into
Kalinik. Often, we wolf down our food test results which Ive been unduly anxious about.
your chest. It helps you feel
and still find ourselves hungry, or we It turns out I could do with a lot more gong baths in my life. Dr Roked
balanced by stimulating
need a coffee. We just havent allowed tells me my cortisol levels are elevated in three out of the four samples,
the thyroid gland.
enough time for our hunger hormones to and off the scale in the morning: High cortisol
kick in and tell us weve had enough. levels cannot be sustained and are often a pre-
OHHHHHHM
But there are ways to influence your hunger hormones that cursor to adrenal fatigue, the result sheet says.
Skip the chanting in your
dont involve food. Sleep is one of them, as is the time of day So my loose diagnosis last year wasnt com-
yoga class? You could
you exercise. Eve suggests working out first thing in the morn- pletely unfounded. In contrast, my testosterone
be missing out. Chanting
ing, as this can help to support glucose tolerance for better and levels are low, which Dr Roked explains could
stimulates the meridian
more balanced blood-sugar management. When it comes to be due to the pill and high cortisol levels. To
points on the roof of your
exercise, the trend for HIIT classes and squeezing an intense treat this, its good to find the cause and resolve
mouth and helps trigger
session into 20 minutes isnt necessarily helping our hormone it. Doing things like intermittent fasting, strength
serotonin and dopamine.
balance. Everyone I speak to name checks yoga as the best training and making sure your diet has good
way to minimise stress. According to Dr Annaradnam, the peo- levels of fat and protein are going to help your
ple who need to do yoga most are the people who say, Oh, I cant body make testosterone, which is very important for women it gives
relax in a yoga class, I cant switch off. Thats why you need to do it! If you a bit of spark and get up and go.
you cant switch off for an hour, thats a problem. It takes a while for it all to sink in, but I decide not to get stressed
Which is how I find myself switching off with one of the most about being officially stressed and something clicks. Im much more in
switched-on yoga teachers Ive ever met. An ex-drug addict and alco- control, especially of lifestyle factors, than I think I am. Dr Roked suggests
holic, Carolyn Cowan has been a kundalini yoga teacher for 20 years stress-busting supplements called adaptogens, which I soon discover are
and is fascinated by hormones. Do you want a dopamine hit? she asks the break-out star on the wellness scene. Known as magical plants, be-
during our session at Chelseas Triyoga, where shell be running a work- cause they grow in harsh conditions and bring some of that hardiness to
shop on how yoga can rebalance your hormones in November. I say your own body, they help lower stress and promote balance. But mostly
yes, obviously, and then follow her into a cross-legged seated pose that Im glad I found out more about my hormone levels. Its made me think
involves stretching up, letting my head fall, inhaling and opening my of hormonal health in a totally different way, as well as understanding
mouth wide while sticking my tongue out as far out as I can. I feel stupid, that it will change as I get older and different decades will bring differ-
but then I get the hit. A large number of dopamine receptors are in the ent symptoms. I definitely wont take any notice of the shouty headlines
mouth, which is why eating comforts us, she says as I release my arms from now on. Ill be too busy taking sound baths and getting my
and giggle at my light-headed buzz. yoga-induced dopamine hits. Oh, and the pill? Im coming off it.

ELLE
154 OCT
e lle p r o m o t i o n

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ON
ELLE
VOICE

the agony
and
elation
of having
sisters
ABIGAIL BERGSTROMS sisters are her strongest allies and most
brutal critics, and know her better than she knows herself. But
sometimes, she says, she has to step away from the sorority
It was dark, and as she grasped my hand tightly through the car window, Your sister will spitefully mock your ugliest feature in front of your friends,
the fear in her eyes burned into me. but shell make you laugh for the first time in weeks when your dad is se-
Its going to be OK, I said. She nodded slowly, her eyes stretched riously ill in hospital. Your sister will teach you your worth and talk you
wide from the adrenaline. I thought she might cry, so I broke eye contact through asking for that pay rise, but shell pull the rug from under your ego
and smiled at my brother-in-law, who was sat in the driving seat. when you get carried away. You will know your sister so intently, youll
Right, lets go, then! My mum breezed past me, getting in to the communicate through raised eyebrows and side glances. You will loathe
back seat. I breathed in her scent in an attempt to take in the calmness your sister so vehemently that youll wish youd had a brother.
of her maternal energy. As a child, I repeatedly asked Amy and Nicola to tell me the story of
I looked back at my sister, who was still staring at me asking me the day I was born. Theyd returned from a sleepover one morning to find
a question, pleading with me for an answer I didnt have. a baby they assumed belonged to the neighbours, only to be told she was
I love you. theirs and they could keep her. On meeting me, they immediately went up-
I love you, she whispered back. I peeled my sweaty hand out of stairs to collect all their soft toys and worldly belongings. When my mother
hers and the Land Rover sped off, racing into the uncertainty and darkness looked down to see how I was getting on, she found a chubby face float-
of what was once our safe and quaint village street. ing in a sea of teddy bears and pastel-coloured, stuffed limbs. They were
Its now six years later, and I take immense pleasure in watching my there from the moment theyd met me, offering up all they had, sacrificing
healthy niece, who was born that night, play with her little sister, forming everything they loved, telling me all that was theirs was mine now, too.
a secret bond that belongs to them and them only. But I remember that I often think of me and my siblings as being like The Graeae, the
moment as if it were yesterday, because for what had felt like the first time three sisters in Greek mythology who collectively share one eye and one
in my life, my eldest sister Amy a woman who had imprinted her strength tooth, which they pass to a sister when needed. We shared a womb, a
on me and hand-carved my understanding of the world was more afraid complex childhood and were reared with the same hilarity and insan-
of something than I was. She was the vulnerable one, and I was the per- ity by our parents. From that emerged a uniquely shared perspective;
son she was looking to for help. As the youngest of three (there are three like The Graeae, we have a shared lens that only we have the ability to
years between each of us), my instinct had been to turn to our middle sister, look through. Like their tooth, we have a shared grit to our characters that
Nicola. I wouldnt have needed to utter the words: What do we do? She feeds our collective discernment.
would have known. She would have taken over, and all responsibility for Although this may sound poetic, there is a danger in it. I recently read
reassurance and combating fear would have been hers. But Nicola had Nadja Spiegelmans three-generational memoir, Im Supposed to Protect
been away and there was no one but me. You From All This. It grapples with the way the older women in our lives be
I didnt sleep a wink that night; I was transfixed by the new reality Id they sisters, mothers or grandmothers offer up their memories and under-
woken up to. Like the day you realise your parents arent superheroes or standing of reality, and we then absorb them unquestionably as our own.
OCT

magic, theyre just regular people doing their best and youre a selfish Its difficult to differentiate your own characteristics and beliefs if youre
twat. It suddenly hit me, and it felt like the time Amy winded me for eating all chewing through the fat with a shared tooth. And it is, of course, impos-
169
the sweets from her Goofy Pez dispenser. Not only was she not invincible, sible to decipher your own perspective when youre looking at the world
but the world would inevitably throw at us some terrible and inconceivably through someone elses eye.
painful situations and Nicola wasnt always going to be there to stand A large part of my identity is built from the memory bank and reality
in and fix them for us. that my sisters constructed for me, but it is important to break free from the
A sister is a mirror. She will reflect your abilities and inadequacies in equal webs of certainty the women in your life have spun sometimes for your
ELLE

measure, and she will make you face the most unlikeable parts of yourself. protection in order to create your own sense of self. That night, when
She can destroy you with a single sentence and unearth your very deepest Amy went into labour, I realised my sisters strength and perspective were
insecurities with nothing more than a word. She knows you perhaps better not impenetrable or infallible, and that forced me to muster up my own.
than you know you. And while this ensures an inimitable connection, it can To know my sisters have got me is my quotidian safety blanket, but to
also inflict great pain. pull away from the women whose strength you most admire is essential in
Your sister will brutally date your school crush and teenage obsession, determining your own. Most importantly, it gives you the ability to
and then have a fist fight with the girls who are mercilessly bullying you. know without any fear or hesitation that Ive got you, too.
ELLE
VOICE

Artwork by

FEMOJIS

Its cool to be kind


Chances are youre probably a lot nicer than you think,
and part of a growing wave of do-gooders who get
a kick from being more considerate and less cut-throat.
Nell Frizzell discovers why altruism is so hot right now
pennies by a fountain for passers by to make a wish because, come on,
Im not a Brothers Grimm character. Ive never made a house for hedge-
hogs because a) I live in London and b) Im not actually Beatrix Potter.
I am not, I suspect, an innately kind person. Aged eight, I was accused of But I have cooked meals for people, donated to charity, given blood and
bullying by a boy called Sam because I told everyone his clothes looked made the effort to reach out to vulnerable people in my neighbourhood, as
like someone had sewn a hoover bag to a fire blanket and given it a pair the list suggests. As for acts of kindness on the internet, I have picked more
of knitted sleeves. Inspirational quotes on Twitter set my teeth on edge. low-hanging fruit than the man from Del Monte in that regard sending out
I get an intense feeling of satisfaction when I overtake men in cycling shorts supportive tweets, wishing people a Facebook happy birthday, leaving
when Im on my bike, and I love winning at Scrabble. celebratory comments on Instagram: Ive done it all. And only sometimes
And yet, like 14.2 million other people, according to the National to try to make people like me.
Council for Voluntary Organisations in 2015, I volunteer at least once As author and trainee psychologist Eleanor Morgan points out, in many
a month (as an English teacher at a community centre for refugees and ways the internet has made it easier for our generation to show empathy.
immigrants); I recycle; I pay people compliments; I talk to strangers; I Whereas, in real-life situations, the Bystander Effect means we might as-
dont like to see people cry. Perhaps this is evidence, if evidence were sume that someone else a friend or a person in authority will intervene,
needed, that my generation of Xennials (those born
between 1977 and 1983) is just as, if not more,
socially responsible, ethically minded, environmen-
tally concerned and empathetic than those that
came before it. Or, perhaps, Im simply a follower So many of our st
in what social psychologists call the generosity
contagion, when people imitate others prosocial vulnerable now rely on
behaviour. Do I, for example, offer to carry older
peoples suitcases up train platform steps because
the kindness of strangers,
rather than the state
I really care about their limbs, or because Ive seen
other people get rewarded for doing the same?
In a world where professional empaths can
now charge 200 an hour to, literally, feel your
feelings, it is difficult to say whether kindness really
is on the increase, or if tolerance, empathy and compassion have simply you can be very direct in online acts of kindness. People have, argues
become the latest power tools in the game of personal development. Pub- Morgan, been pushed out of soft relationships with their shopkeepers,
lic figures, from politicians to pop stars, have always been keen to pre- neighbours, GPs to the extent that millennials have become separated
sent their kindness to the world. Only now, thanks to social media, rolling from others. And so, she asks, if we are losing those daily human connec-
news and international communication, the stories reach further, for longer tions, who are you kind to? Maybe the answer is, somewhat surprisingly,
and under more scrutiny. Brooklyn Beckham donated all proceeds from strangers on the internet.
his photography exhibition to Grenfell Tower victims, Ariana Grande vis- Just as it is easier than ever to take to Twitter and anonymously plough
ited victims of the Manchester attacks in hospital, and footballer Jermaine into a stranger because you dislike their politics, body shape, spelling or
Defoe continued to visit the six-year-old club mascot and sufferer of a rare opinions, simultaneously it has never been easier to go to Twitter or Tum-
cancer, Bradley Lowery, until his death. These acts of kindness seem, in blr and find millions of people who think, feel, look and identify the same
some respect, to show that our world has moved away from the cut-throat, way as you. Campaigns for trans rights, abortion rights, gay rights, racial
greed-is-good culture of the Eighties and Nineties towards something a justice, economic equality and social justice have all become more vis-
little softer. ible, more easy to access, more familiar to generations born after 1980
Of course, it is often claimed that millennials are the most narcissistic, because we can simply look them up online.
selfish and abusive generation of all time. According to the NSPCC, one The internet has also allowed a far broader reach for volunteer organi-
in three children have been a victim of cyberbullying, while an Australian sations run quite literally in the case of Good Gym, which delivers shop-
study by digital-security firm Norton found that one in four women under ping while out jogging on kindness. Take a scroll through the Do-It Trust
30 had received general threats of physical violence. But the picture is far website and you can, with just a few clicks, volunteer at a food bank, visit
from simple. As Cerian Jenkins, campaigner and co-founder of the Gender local elderly people, be a mentor to an unemployed young person or clean
Equality Network, put it to me: You cant deconstruct gender inequality up your local canal. While such actions are certainly to be celebrated,
in 140 characters. When I first started campaigning, I was quite reaction- the fact that so many of our most vulnerable must now rely on the kindness
ary to people who were cruel to me. Now, 10 years later, Ive definitely of strangers, rather than social security ensured by the state, is a worry.
learned that its up to us to respond kindly to everyone. Obviously, if some- Without individual kindness, many in Britain would have no safety net at all.
one is being abusive to you, or threatening violence or sexual assault, you So, while I may worry that my own acts of kindness are simply that
are under no obligation to be kind or to even interact with that person. But individual acts that dont quite knit together into the warming blanket of
if they are coming across as unkind because they feel threatened by what being a good person I also, genuinely, dont care. Or dont care as
youre saying, there is an argument for extending kindness to those peo- much as I used to. As Eleanor Morgan put it, If kindness really is benefiting
ple. As a campaigner, Jenkins advocates for radical kindness: I go out people, does it deserve cynicism and derision? Does it serve anyone to
of my way to offer information and be gracious towards people who are question my motives, study my Twitter feed for hypocrisy or stroke their chin
reacting negatively to me, online as well as face-to-face, she explains. It is and smirk as I talk of trying my best? Isnt it good enough that Im having a
exhausting, though. So you also have to be radically kind to yourself. That is go? As a woman far wiser than me once said, you cant do everything, but
perhaps misinterpreted as narcissism by older people, but its actually sur- you should still try to do something. Even if it is just to apologise to Sam in
vival. In order to be kind to other people, you have to be kind to yourself. Year 4 for slagging off his jumper.
Going through the list of acts suggested by Kindness UK, the not-for-
profit organisation that organises an annual Kindness Day (13 November,
for those of you taking note), I scored a whopping 15 out of 77. Ive never
left money in a parking meter, ticket or vending machine for the next per-
son. I have not signed up as an organ donor. I have never left a pile of
ELLE
171 OCT
OCTOBER 2017 FASHION

CAN YOU DRESS YOUR WAY


to a happier, more successful new you?
LETS ATTEMPT THE FASHION
EQUIVALENT
of creative visualisation, shall we?
PICTURE YOURSELF
IN THAT SWANKY OFFICE
and shiny new job, dressed in the seasons
new suiting the Calvin Klein jacket
hanging just so.
OR RUNNING WILD AND CAREFREE
through the woods with your love,
wrapped in the most opulent Prada
shearling and comest Mulberry knits.
OR STROLLING THROUGH PARIS
dressed in shaggy, neon Miu Miu, there on
a whim because it seemed like a fun idea.
OR HAVING A CASUAL
SATURDAY
off-duty, revelling in having nowhere
to be and no one to answer to, adorned
in a glamorous, owing Fendi dress.
SHE CAN BEAT ME, BUT SHE
CANNOT BEAT MY OUTFIT
you keep Rihannas quote on a Post-It
note. And it has served you well.
LIVE YOUR BEST LIFE.
ELLE
175 OCT
rih
n
Styling by

DANIEL
VANDEWAL

Photographs by

SLVE
SUNDSB
Singer, actor, fashion designer
and now beauty entrepreneur,
RIHANNA is a true pop-culture
polymath. Here, ELLE investigates
her diverse power and inuence
and talks to her exclusively
about her eagerly awaited Fenty
make-up range
Words by
The first time I met Rihanna, in November 2005, it seemed distinctly possible to me,
anyway that she might go down as a one-hit wonder. The year she turned 17, Robyn LAUREN
Rihanna Fenty released her first single, a reggae- and dancehall-tinged pop song called WATERMAN
Pon de Replay. It did well, reaching number 2 on both the Official Singles Chart and the
Billboard Hot 100. But the album from whence it came, Music of the Sun, made less of
an impression, peaking at number 35 in the UK and number 10 in the US. But she wasnt
worried: This is just the beginning, she told me towards the end of a brief interview at a
Manhattan photo studio. My dream hasnt come true yet. Its not about having five sec-
onds of fame: I want to become a very successful artist.
Ill admit, I didnt take her words especially seriously. Back then, I was writing for
Teen Vogue, and I spoke to at least a few would-be very successful artists every month;
needless to say, a not-insignificant percentage of them were never heard from again.
Rihanna, I soon learned, was different. Less than three months after the release of
her debut album, she had started working on another. SOS, the first single from A Girl which shed learned to dream even bigger. She was
Like Me and her first song to go to number 1 came out in February 2006, less than a hoping to try acting, she said, ideally in an action movie:
week before her 18th birthday. I love that kind of stuff, she told me. Its just cooler to
From there, the hits kept coming. Unfaithful, an over-the-top ballad in which she me. Asked what else she might want to do, she didnt
lamented, somewhat absurdly, I dont wanna bea murderer, was followed the next hesitate: I want to start some of my own businesses, she
year by Umbrella, the exuberant, plainly unstoppable first single from her third LP, Good answered, including some clothing lines. A few minutes
Girl Gone Bad. By the time we met again, in July 2007, the young woman from Saint later, when I raised the subject of her then-current gig as
Michael Parish, Barbados (whose neighbours, shed told me, used to complain about a face of the cosmetics line CoverGirl, she ignored the
her loud singing), was fully a star, with a silver-glitter manicure shed had done in Japan opportunity to talk up the brand. I also want to bring out
and a glowing collection of tattoos of similarly far-flung provenance. a make-up line of my own, she said.
I remember shed arrived to the shoot more than an hour late, but she didnt seem Even for the singer whod recorded the undisput-
particularly contrite. Nor did I expect her to be; I think we both knew by then that her ed song of the summer even for a 19-year-old whod
time was far more valuable than mine. As we began talking, neither of us pointed out, in released an album that would ultimately go platinum in
so many words, that her dreams had come true. Instead, we talked about all the ways in 19 countries her plans were ambitious. But, almost
exactly a decade later, Rihanna has done it all.
As well as recording five more best-selling albums
(bringing her total to eight, and counting), she began
designing clothes for Armani in 2011, and then for River Island in 2012. Later that year, she made her big-
screen debut in, as promised, an action flick (director Peter Bergs Battleship). By 2015, she was the first-
ever black face of Dior and the creative director of sportswear brand Puma, a title she still holds.
This year, shes appeared on the American TV show Bates Motel , in the space-set adventure movie
Valerian, collaborated on two jewellery lines with Chopard (one haute, one merely very expensive), put
out her third collection of high heels with Manolo Blahnik, and, oh yes, hit a number 1 again, this time as a
featured artist on DJ Khaleds irresistible Santana-sampling single Wild Thoughts. Now, with the much-
anticipated debut of her eponymous make-up line, the 29-year-old mogul is finally checking off the last
item on her long to-do list.
Contrary to what many expected, the first batch of Fenty Beauty products includes just one lip colour
and zero eyeshadows, liners or mascaras. Instead, Rihanna opted to focus on creating a truly inclusive
complexion collection, with 40 shades of foundation (her own colour, #340, is near the middle of the
ELLE
178 OCT
Faux-fur coat with plastic
cover, CALV IN KLEIN
2 0 5W39NYC . Diamond
and white-gold
earrings, C HO P AR D

MY APPROACH WITH
FENTY BEAUTY
WAS JUST TO DO THINGS
MY WAY

SLVE SUNDSB
Plastic coat and
hood, both
D OL C E & GABBANA.
Viscose bodysuit
(worn underneath),
G IV E N C H Y

IVE HAD ENOUGH


OF PUTTING A
FACE ON.
I JUST WANT TO
BE ME NOW
SLVE SUNDSB
range) and 20 concealer/contour sticks. Shes not exactly being altruistic: plenty of
money has been left on the table by brands that insist on starting at Alabaster and ending
at Almond, and her products, produced in partnership with the luxury conglomerate
ELLE
181 OCT

LVMH, arent cheap. But the move still feels somehow sweet, as well as smart; like shes
doing a favour for her millions of diverse, devoted fans.
Rihanna told ELLE US beauty editor April Long: One of the things that was most
important to me [when designing her beauty range] was to make sure everyone was
included. Foundation was the first product I ever owned; it was
like magic, and Ive been in love with make-up ever since.
Avidly hands-on throughout the collections development,
Rihanna led everything from the playful name selection
(theres a gold powder highlighter, for instance, called Tro- BEAUTY,
phy Wife) to the packaging, which, like its creator, is multifac- THE RIHANNA
eted, with tough, graffiti-inspired outer boxes opening onto
sleek, streamlined, sweetly pretty individual products. There WAY
are plenty of options out there when it comes to make-up,
Rihanna said. My approach with Fenty Beauty was just to Q. WHEN WAS T HE FI RST T I ME
do things my way. YOU WORE LI PST I C K?
Nobodys entirely sure when the stars biggest fans be- A. Lipstick always got me in trouble.
gan calling themselves the RihannaNavy; some have traced Whether it was at home as a kid or in my
the name back to a lyric from the stars 2009 album, Rated early teenage years in my career,
R. But their loyalty is well known should anyone, celeb or I always had the urge to wear it. increasingly interesting, as she
civilian, dare to criticise their leader, the Navy will be quick So I broke all those rules. Now, lipstick ditched the going-out tops and
to challenge them. Of course, Rihannas own clap backs are is like my lil secret weapon! sparkly minidresses in favour of
legendary: in 2011, when Ciara complained on TV that, dur- couture gowns and avant-garde
ing a recent run-in at a party, Riri wasnt the nicest, Rihanna Q. WHAT S T HE C RAZI EST T HI NG streetwear. Its always very as-
promptly tweeted, My bad, Ci, did I forget to tip you? YOU VE EVER T RI ED FOR BEAUT Y, AND tonishing, the things she puts to-
But, as the above anecdote illustrates, it wasnt only WOU LD YOU DO I T AGAI N? gether, says Chopard creative di-
Rihannas music that converted casual admirers into aco- A. A corset Id wear it every day rector and co-president Caroline
lytes. Her fans were also responding to a change in her ap- if I could make it out alive! Scheufele. Manolo Blahnik CEO
proach that came about during the years she was racking up Kristina Blahnik agrees, noting
smash after smash. Q. WHAT MAKES YOU FEEL DRESSY that the stars inventiveness is key
Before, she told me during our 2007 interview, I was AND DONE, BEAU T Y-WI SE? to her outsize impact on the fash-
a different way in my career than I was in person. But Ive had A. My finishing touch is usually ion world. She lives by her own
enough of putting a face on. I just want to be me now. What highlighter. I just love the way it adds rules, and thats so refreshing
you see is what you get. a sense of fantasy to any look. I think a lot of people aspire to
At the time, I wasnt sure what she meant; shed been have that kind of freedom.
polite but low-key during both our conversations, display- Q. OF ALL T HE C ELEBRI T I ES YOU VE Today, shes both a verita-
ing little of the wicked sense of humour that shed eventually MET , WHO SMELLS T HE BEST ? ble meme machine fans love to
become known for. Her signature D.G.A.F. demeanour A. [Photographers] Inez [van post pictures of her many hilari-
was newly apparent when she explained, It kind of trips Lamsweerde] and Vinoodh [Matadin]. ously eloquent expressions along-
me out that people put so much energy into saying negative Inez actually gifted me her scent, side comments such as, When
things about me I think theyd feel really stupid if they knew because I was always asking about it. yall beefn n he txt u first, or When
how much I dont care. Im still breathing. Nothing they say u explained something for the 3rd
can faze me at all. Q. WHOS YOUR HAI R I DOL? time & the person still doesnt get
It was only when she gained greater control over A. Its between Toni Braxton, from back it and, it seems, a woman living
her sound and her videos, and when Myspace gave way in the day with all her short haircuts, and her best-possible life. Not only is
to Twitter, Instagram and, eventually, Snapchat, that the Cindy Crawford; she had the most she having fun whether shes
real Rihanna truly emerged. Her style choices, too, grew effortless yet stunning hair. heckling NBA basketball players,
making out with a hot Saudi bil-
Q. WHOS YOU R MAKE-UP I DOL? lionaire or dancing at Barbadoss
A. Id have to go with [Sixties model] annual Crop Over festival in a
Veruschka. She made make-up barely-there jewel-encrusted bi-
look like silk. kini and matching thigh-high gladi-
ators it appears that theres no
limit to what she might accomplish.
Consider her recent sit-down with the president of France, to discuss funding for
international education (Rihanna is a global ambassador for the Global Partner-
ship for Education).
As the writer/director Gary Ross, who cast her alongside Cate Blanchett,
Sandra Bullock and Anne Hathaway in next years all-female Oceans Eleven spin-
off Oceans Eight , puts it: She has so many incredible gifts, its just a question of
how many hours there are in a day. A decade ago, I didnt think shed do even half
of what she said she would. Now I, like millions of people, cant wait to see
what shell do next.
RIHANNAS
PHARRELL WILLIAMS,
MUSICIAN/PRODUCER:

Q: Youre a pluralist in

famous friends
every sense of the
word. Did you always
have these dreams to
do so many things,

get the chance in addition to being


an artist?
A: Ive always been a

to grill her dreamer or, lets just


say I kept my options
open. In my heart,

and NOTHING
I knew singing was
gonna be in my future,
but I considered
psychology, banking,

is off-limits LAURA KIM AND


FERNANDO GARCIA,
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
DESIGNERS:
hairdressing, teaching,
acting, modelling,
aviation and
philanthropy. I just
didnt know Id pretty
much be doing all
TYRA BANKS, MODEL AND EMINEM, RAPPER: Q: Whats been your these things eventually!
ENTREPRENEUR:
Q: You dont seem like best vintage nd?
Q:You are so you are ever thinking A: A costume from LAVERNE COX, ACTRESS:
successful and about trends when you 1952 that was worn
surrounded by people go in the studio, yet Q: Youve had so many
in the movie Singin iconic fashion
who want to please you end up setting in the Rain.
you. Who gives it to them. What are you moments and taken
you straight? For me, looking at when you so many risks. The
its my mama. Who is start your recording CHARLI XCX, iconic Adam Selman
that in your life? SINGER/SONGWRITER: dress you wore to the
process? CFDA Awards in 2014
A: They all fake, Q: Whats your
A: I rarely know exactly what gave you the
LOL, and red! what I want to do, but karaoke song? courage to take that
always know exactly A: Bon Jovi, Livin on a risk, which was so
how I want it to make Prayer; Journey, Dont perfect and elegant
JACQUIE AICHE,
JEWELLERY DESIGNER: me feel. Feeling always Stop Believin; and yet daring?
Whats your leads to the sound. Brandy and Monica,
Q:
The Boy is Mine. A: I took advantage of
favourite body part? my titties before they
A: Well, my favourite DAVID COPPERFIELD, head south. I saw my
body parts on pretty MAGICIAN:
DANIELLE STEEL, window, and I took it.
BEST-SELLING AUTHOR:
much any woman Q: Im not kidding, this
are the collarbone is a real offer: I can Q: I love your shoe
PATRICIA FIELD, STYLIST:
and shoulders. make you disappear passion, especially your
collaboration with Q: Would you consider
and reappear Manolo Blahnik. How having a cocktail
WYCLEF JEAN, RAPPER: anywhere in the world. much of the designing with me some time in
The last time I saw Where do you want to the near future?
Q:
go, and why? do they let you do?
you, it was at the A: They give me all the
Id like to get
World Cup. If you could A: Ten minutes before to know you better.
I lost my virginity creative freedom (Not hitting on you.)
be any football player I could ask for, but of
in the world, who and Im holding you to course I have this A: Your place or mine?
would it be? that offer, LOL. unique opportunity to
A: Cristiano Ronaldo. work with Mr Blahnik
But then again, himself, so his expertise
Beckham did marry is always more
Posh Spice. than welcome.
ELLE
182 OCT
Sequin dress with bra,
N IN A R IC CI. Black gold
and diamond earring,
R EP O SSI at NET -A-P O R TER.
White gold and black-and-
white diamond ear cuffs,
and rings (on ring finger),
all EV A FEHR EN. Silver
pinky ring, EDDIE BO R G O.
H A I R: YUSEF AT F AC T O RY
D O W NT O W N FO R RI C H
H A I R C ARE. MAK E- UP:
J A MES K ALI ARD O S
F OR FEN T Y B EAUT Y.
M ANI C URE: K I M MI E K YEES
AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM
F OR DEF Y & I NSPI RE.
P R O D UC ED B Y T O MMY
R OM ERSA AT JO Y
A S B URY PRO DUC T I O N S.
F A S HI O N ASSI ST AN T :
D ANI EL GAI NES

MY FAVOURITE BODY PARTS


ON ANY WOMAN ARE THE
SLVE SUNDSB
COLLARBONE AND SHOULDERS
WHER
Photographs by

JAN
WELTERS
Wool jumper, 550,
M U L B E R R Y . Tulle and
lace skirt, 1,995,
BURBERRY SEPTEMBER
2017 CO L L E CT I O N . Wool
socks (just seen), price on
application, M O N CL E R
GAMME ROUGE.
Shearling and leather
shoes, 275, CO A CH 1941

Styling by

ANNE-MARIE

THINGSS
CURTIS
E WILD
THE

Make stout
knits, delicate
slip dresses
and the
furriest
boots your
wolf suit and
head out

S
into the
night for a
ARE woodland
adventure
of mischief-
making
TE X T U R E H A S N O
L I MI TS H E R E : S A T I N ,
W OOL , S H E A R L I N G
I T S A L L WE L CO M E .
THIS PAGE
Wool scarf, 730, satin
dress, 2,195, and shearling
boots, 1,430, all P R A D A .
OPPOSITE
Leather-mix coat, 1,055,
C H L O . Viscose-mix jumper,
425, M O N CL E R . Silk
embroidered skirt, 5,660,
GUC C I . Wool socks, price on
application, M O N CL E R
GAMME RO U G E . Shearling
and leather slides, 275,
CO A CH 1941

JAN WELTERS
ELLE
187 OCT
ELLE
188 OCT

Y O U WA N T YO U R
KN I TS O V E R S I Z E D T O
B L AN KE T P R O P O R T I O N S
AL L T H E B E T T E R T O
W RAP Y O U R S E L F U P I N .
Wool jacket, 1,235,
and silk dress,
1,695, both E T R O
JAN WELTERS
AVOI D C RE A T I N G B U L K
WHEN PILING ON
TH E H E A V Y K N I T S B Y
AD D I N G A L I G H T L A YE R
(A FL A S H O F F L E S H
I S RE C O M M E N D E D ) .
THIS PAGE
Shearling and leather vest,
1,495, CO A CH 1941.
Wool jumper, 625, and
polyester skirt, 1,895,
both L OE WE . Shearling
boots, 1,430, P R A D A .
OPPOSITE
Polyester jacket, 1,315,
MON C L E R . Silk dress,
7,475, A L E X A N D E R
McQUE E N . Wool socks,
price on application,
MON CL E R G A M M E
ROUGE . Shearling and
leather slides, 275,
CO A CH 1941
OCT
190
ELLE
JAN WELTERS
JAN WELTERS
Feather fringe (worn
as headband), 33.33
per metre, M ac CULLO CH
& WALLIS . Shearling
stole, stylists own.
Silk-mix top, 4,300,
and silk-mix skirt, 4,600,
both LO UIS V UIT T O N

ELLE
193 OCT
ELLE
194 OCT

FL ORA L S L O O K B E S T
W HE N WO R N WI L D
AN D UNR U L Y. S H A G G Y
BOOTS KEEP THE
PRE TTI N E S S G R O U N D E D .
THIS PAGE
Leather and shearling
gilet, 1,055, S A N D R O .
Wool jumper, 425,
VI VI E N N E WE S T WO O D .
Shearling boots,
1,430, P R A D A .
OPPOSITE
Wool-mix hat, 1,550,
MON C L E R G R E N O B L E .
Wool gilet, nylon
dress, cotton turtleneck
(worn underneath) and
fur boots, all price
on application, all
MON C L E R GA M M E R O U G E
JAN WELTERS
ELLE
196 OCT

JAN WELTERS
Shearling jacket,
2,070, L O N G CH A M P .
Wool top (just seen),
705, M I S S O N I .
HAI R : P H IL IP P E T H O L IM ET
AT S A IN T L U K E A R T IS T S
U S I N G O R IB E. M A K E- U P :
AN D R EW G A L L IM O R E A T
C LM H A IR A N D M A K E- U P
U S IN G N A R S . M O D EL :
S OFI E H EM M ET A T EL IT E
LO N D O N . T H E T EA M
S T A Y ED A T C H IL S T O N
PAR K H O T EL , S A N D W A Y
Photographs by

GILLES
BENSIMON

PARIS, MY

LOVE Styling by

MELANIE
HUYNH
T H IS P AG E
Wool jumper, 250,
C HLO . Silk skirt, 960,
ISABEL M AR ANT .
18ct rose-gold diamond
earrings, 28,550,
and 18ct rose-and-white
gold ring, 4.900,
both DAUP HIN .
O P P O SIT E
Shearling jacket,
2,410, LO UIS V UIT T O N .
Cashmere turtleneck,
380, M AX M AR A .
Cotton trousers, 728,
and leather boots,
998, both DO LCE
& G ABBANA .
Leather bag, price
on application,
P IER R E HAR DY .
Gold watch, price
on application,
R O LEX V INT AG E

Whether or not your weekend involves


a jaunt on the Eurostar, embrace
glamour as if it did. Dressed-up
Saturday is the new casual Friday
ELLE
200

A FUL L -L E N GTH MI U MI U
FUR I N AC I D -B RI GH T C H E C KS
OCT

I S E XAC TL Y W H AT Y OUR
W E E KE ND J E ANS -AND -
ROL L N E C K UN I FORM N E E D S .
Faux-fur coat, 2,295, denim
jeans, 415, leather and crystal
shoes (just seen), 535, and
leather bag, 2,750,
all MI U MI U . Cashmere
turtleneck, 380, MAX MARA .
Leather belt, price on
application, B E Y ON D RE TRO
GILLES BENSIMON
GILLES BENSIMON
U SE NAT UR AL HAIR AND
M AKE-UP T O T EM P ER T HE
D AYT IM E G LAM O UR O F
T H E DR ESSIER NEW Y O U.
Y O U WANT T O LO O K LIKE
Y O U V E M ADE AN EFFORT
W I T HO UT AP P EAR ING
O V ER LY DO NE .
T H IS P AG E
Wool coat, 2,100, and
cashmere jumper, 1,180,
both BO T T EG A V ENET A .
Leather bag, price on
application, P IER R E HARDY .
Leather skirt, 585, SKIIM .
Cotton socks, not for
resale, C O ACH AR CHIV E .
Suede shoes, 595,
SO P HIA WEBST ER .
O P P O SIT E
Silk top, cotton shirt (worn
underneath) and silk skirt,
all price on application, and
leather boots, 1,580, all
ISABEL M AR ANT . Pink-gold
earrings and ring, both
price on application, both
R EP O SSI AT NET -A-P O R TER

ELLE
203 OCT
ELLE
204
OCT

GILLES BENSIMON
R EV IV E T HE FLAM BO YANCE
O F T HE SEV ENT IES WIT H
SHAGGY O UT ER WEAR , MARY
J ANES AND HANGO V ER-
H IDING SUNGLASSES.
T H IS P AG E
Shearling coat, 555, Z ADIG
& VO LT AIR E . Metal and acrylic
sunglasses, 235, silk-mix dress,
1,150, leather bag, 1,150,
and leather shoes, 580, all
C HLO . 18ct rose-gold ring
set with diamonds, 3,090,
R IHANNA LO V ES C HO P ARD .
O P P O SIT E
Cashmere cardigan,
1,995, BUR BER R Y . Leather
bag, price on application,
leather boots, 1,580, and
silver-brass earrings, 354,
all ISABEL M AR ANT .
Microfibre briefs (just seen),
8, IM T IM ISSIM I . Rose-gold
and diamond necklace
and bracelet, both price on
application, both ST O NE PARIS
ELLE
206
OCT

I F Y OU B U Y O N E
AC C E S S ORY THI S A U T U M N ,
L E T I T B E A PAI R O F T A L L ,
B L AC K L E ATH E R B O O T S .
Y OU L L N E E D THE M T O I N J E CT
J US T THE RI GHT AM O U N T O F
C OOL TO Y OUR D R E S S E S .
THIS PAGE
Wool coat, 3,600, and
leather boots, 1,140, both
L OUI S VUI TTON . Leather bag,
890, I S AB E L MAR A N T . Gold
watch, price on application,
VI N TAGE R O L E X . 18ct
rose-gold ring, 2,250,
RE POS S I AT N E T - A - P O R T E R .
OPPOSITE
Silk and wool coat, 1,080,
and cashmere turtleneck,
380, both M A X M A R A .
Leather bag, 890, I S A B E L
MARAN T . Leather belt, price
on application, B E YO N D
RE TRO . Corduroy trousers,
190, 7 FOR AL L M A N K I N D .
Gold bracelet, 5,450,
C ARTI E R . Gold watch and
ring, both as before
GILLES BENSIMON
ELLE
208 OCT
B R IGHT FLO R ALS NEED
N OT BE R EST R ICT ED T O
W A RM DAYS. M AKE T HEM
W INT ER AP P R O P R IAT E WITH
D E L BO Y -ESQ UE SHEAR LING.
T H IS P AG E
Metal sunglasses, price on
application, V INT AGE M ODES .
Shearling coat, 1,750, and
cotton dress, 895, both
C O AC H . Gold watch, price on
application, V INT AGE R O LEX .
OP P O SIT E
Cotton dungarees, 390, and
silk top (worn underneath),
330, both P AUL & J O E .
Leather bag, price on
application, ISABEL M AR ANT .
Leather shoes, 580, C HLO .
18ct rose-gold ring set with
diamonds, 3,090, R IHANNA
L O V ES CHO P AR D

H A IR : M AR IO N ANE AT
O P E N T ALENT P AR IS USING
D A V ID M ALLET T . M AKE-UP:
M A R IO N R O BINE AT O P EN
T A L E NT P AR IS. M ANIC UR E:
A L E XANDR A J ANO WSKI
A T AR T LIST P AR IS. M O DEL :
G A B R IELLE R UL AT T HE HIVE

GILLES BENSIMON
TH IS P A G E
Navy tweed jacket, 4,725,
and navy denim jumpsuit, 2,850,
b o t h C H A N EL. White nappa leather
boots, 565, M AR Q UES ALM EIDA .
OP P O SIT E
Wool jacket, 1,020, silk shirt, 760,
wool skirt, 450, and leather and
mesh boots, 635, all M ULBER R Y
NATA
LOOK
NEAT

THIS PAGE
Wool jacket, 1,752,
leather shirt, 1,978,
wool trousers, 971,
and leather shoes,
585, all C L I N E .
OPPOSITE
Black leather beret,
610, D I O R . Black and
white polyester blazer,
835, and white nappa
leather boots, 565, both
MARQ U E S A L M E I D A .
Black silk blouse, 239,
MAJ E . Black technical
wool trousers, 470,
E MP O R I O A R M A N I
MATTIAS BJRKLUND
ELLE
213 OCT
LOOK
SWEET
T H I S P AG E
Leather beret, 610,
D IO R . Acetate
sunglasses, 256,
C U TLER AND GR O SS .
Wool coat, 2,970,
and wool trousers, 770,
both M IC HAEL KO R S .
Cotton top, 263,
N O. 21 .
O P P O SIT E
Grey tweed shirt, 850,
and grey tweed trousers,
795, both CHLO .
White leather boots,
585, C LINE

MATTIAS BJRKLUND
LOOK l
SLEEK

l
l
w

THIS PAGE
Grey wool jacket, 985,
grey wool turtleneck,
465, and grey wool
trousers, 650, all
S TE L L A M c CA R T N E Y .
Leather boots, 565,
MARQ U E S A L M E I D A
OPPOSITE
Leather beret, 610,
D I OR . Wool-mix jacket,
1,960, and wool-mix
trousers, 1,020, both
J I L S AND E R . Cotton top,
25, GAP . Leather boots,
1,020, CA L V I N K L E I N
OCT
217
ELLE

MATTIAS BJRKLUND
ELLE
218
OCT

MATTIAS BJRKLUND
l
T H IS P AG E
Leather beret, 610,
D IO R . Wool jacket,
345, M AJ E . Cotton
top, 25, GAP . Wool
trousers, 315, M AX
M AR A . Leather bag,
2,100, LO EWE . Leather
boots, 585, C LINE.
OP P O SIT E
Black leather beret, as
before. Black and cream
wool jacket, 1,830,
and black and cream
wool trousers, 865,
both R ALP H LAUR EN
C O LLECT IO N . White
cotton bodysuit, 140,
W OLFO R D AT NET -A-
P O R T ER . White nappa
leather boots, 565,
M AR Q UES ALM EIDA .
H AIR : ALI P IR Z ADEH

1
A T CLM HAIR AND
M AKE-UP USING O R IBE.
M AKE-UP : KR IST INA
R ALP H ANDR EWS AT
ST AIN LUKE AR T IST S
U SING CHANEL T R AV EL
D IAR Y AND CHANEL LE
L IFT SKIN-R EC O V ER Y
M ASK. M ANIC UR E:
C HISAT O YAM AM O T O
A T DAV ID AR T IST S.
M O DEL: AR I WEST P HAL
A T V IV A LO NDO N

LOOK
SUITED
The new way
to subvert
the codes
of femininity
right now? DIOR
Take the most Leather beret,
silk taffeta dress, 7,400,
leather bag, 3,700,
,

unapologetically
and metal choker with
palladium finish and crystals,
280, all D I O R . Lurex

girly frock you


socks, 3.50, T O P S H O P .
Suede shoes,
129, KU R T G E I G E R A T

can find and


F E N WI CK

add muscle
with functional
footwear and
tough leather
accessories

PRETTY
Styling by

JOANNA
SCHLENZKA

GUCCICrepe de chine dress,


2,840, and cotton-mix socks,
90, both G U CCI .
Leather sandals, 60,
B I RKE N S T O CK A T S CH U H .
Gold ring (Aaliyahs left
hand), 145, and gold ring
(Aaliyahs right hand), 140,
both D I N O S A U R D E S I G N S

T UGH
Photographs by

CLARE
SHILLAND
VALENTINO
Wool dress, 6,650,
VAL E N TI N O .
Cotton-mix rollneck
(worn underneath), 24,
TOPS HOP . Leather
trainers, 59.99, AD I D AS
AT AMAZ ON FAS H I ON

CLARE SHILLAND
FENDI
Leather beret, 610, D I OR .
Silk georgette dress,
3,750, FE N D I . Cotton-mix
bodysuit (worn underneath),
145, W OL FORD
AT N E T-A-PORTE R . Leather
boots, 890,
AL E XAND E R McQUE E N
CLARE SHILLAND
ALEXANDER
MCQUEEN
Silk dress, 3,275,
and leather belt, 565, both
AL E XAND E R McQUE E N
SAINT
LAURENT
Silk lam dress, 2,135, and
leather boots, 855,
both S AI NT L AURE N T B Y
AN THONY VAC C ARE L L O .
Nylon tights, 27,
W OL FORD
MARNI
Silk dress, 1,160,
MARNI

CLARE SHILLAND
H A I R : H I R OSH I M AT SUSH IT A
US I N G O R IBE H A IR CA RE .
M A K E- U P : KRIST INA RA L PH
A NDR EWS A T SA INT L UKE
A R T I S T S U SING CH ANE L
T R A V EL D I ARY AND CH A NE L
L E LI F T S K I N - RE CO V E RY SL E E P
M A S K . M A NICURE : A M I
S T R EET S A T L M C. M O DE L :
A A LI Y A H H YDE S A T FIRST
M O D EL M ANA GE M E NT

VERSACE
Leather beret, 610, D I OR .
Cotton-mix polo shirt,
24.90, UN I QL O . Wool
and tulle dress with
embroidery, 2,400,
VE RS AC E . Polyamide-mix
tights, 20, FAL KE
AT N E T-A-PORTE R . Suede
trainers, 62, NI KE
AT S C H UH
CLARE SHILLAND
ETRO
Leather beret, 610, D I OR .
Cotton-mix bodysuit, 145,
W OL FORD AT N E T-A-PORTE R .
Silk dress, 2,425, and leather
embroidered belt (just seen),
520, both E TRO . Polyester-mix
tights, 11, C AL Z E D ONI A .
Cashmere socks, 60, FAL KE .
Leather sandals, 60,
B I RKE NS TOC K AT S C H UH
FOR

Photographs by

JAMES
NELSON

Styling by

SOPHIE
VAN
DER WELLE

Shoulder pads, pencil skirts and button-downs:


meets three designers, from the iconic to the
SUCCESS

THIS PAGE
Grey wool blazer,
425, grey wool top,
195, and grey wool
trousers, 350, all
R A EY at M AT C HES
FA SHIO N . White
leather boots,
418, BY FAR .
Sterling-silver earrings
(worn throughout),
355, FAY ANDR ADA
OPPOSITE
Jersey jacket, 620,
and jersey skirt, 370,
both EM P O R IO
A R MANI . Leather
boots, 545,
R O BER T CLER GER IE
a t NET -A-P O R T ER

the power dressing of old is long gone. ELLE


emerging, redening womens workwear today
take on suiting was revolutionary in a decade in which women were climb-
ing the career ladder in record numbers, most of them dressed like men, in
boxy shapes and shoulder pads. I was able to experience first-hand how
much fashion influences customs and perceptions. Its the primary means

ARMANI This is an age when women build


small empires and reach C-suite-
level jobs wearing uniforms as var-
ied as bodycon dresses, leather
of outwardly representing oneself and a powerful tool, the value of which
should never be underestimated, in any context, he says. His trademarks:
jackets and trousers in easy, elongated silhouettes and a chic, neutral col-
our palette that implies wealth became a currency in the workplace. To
by K E N Y A H U N T trousers, the classic off-duty combo own an Armani suit was to have arrived.
of jeans and a tee, and (yes!) yoga I realised that my work responded to an existing need for professional
leggings. At the time of writing this attire that would give women a sense of dignity and an attitude that would
article, the women making head- let them satisfy the demands of professional life without having to give up on
lines in business couldnt look more different from the prototypical careerist being women. I tried to render that into a strong image. And from there the
in the 1989 film Working Girl . Ubers new chief brand officer Bozoma Saint phenomenon of the power suit was born.
John, a lover of bright, flamboyant dresses, and Into The Gloss founder Emily The idea exploded in the Eighties, with Armani, Anne Klein, Donna
Weiss, a sweater-and-jeans loyalist, both come to mind. So its ironic that Karan and Ralph Lauren all taking the rigidity out of the suit and replacing
workwear has come full circle back to the suit when most office dress codes it with a sense of femininity and sensuality. It was precisely the construction
have moved away from it. After percolating throughout the spring/summer and stiffness of certain suiting that relegated women to the role of dolls.
and pre-collections, power dressing in the traditional, tailored and heritage- With my styles, I wanted to offer suiting that would communicate authority,
printed sense hit a tipping point for autumn, blanketing the runways from while remaining comfortable and fluid, he says.
Stella McCartney and Cline to Off-White and Gabriela Hearst just as it Four decades later, Armani has maintained his commitment to the
was on the verge of extinction in real life. task, throughout the many phases and faces of tailored workwear the Jil
For Giorgio Armani, the man famous for being an early architect of the Sander minimalism of the Nineties, the clean tailoring of Phoebe Philo-era
idea with both his eponymous and Emporio Armani lines, the new wave of Cline, and the revaped suiting from a range of designers in stores now.
workwear is a case of going back to the future. He started cutting suits for Though his definition of power dressing has changed with the landscape,
women in 1975, a year after showing his first mens collection. That was af- as have the women who wear his clothes.
ter my sister and some women friends wanted to wear what I had designed The concept has changed radically since the Seventies when the au-
for men. They wanted simple, soft jackets, in which they would be able to thor John T. Molloy wrote The Womans Dress for Success Book , instructing
move freely and naturally, he explains from Milan. His feminine, elegant the female work force to consider the male gaze because it is a stark real-
ity that men dominate the power structure, before advising
to never wear a shirt and tie or pinstriped or chalk-striped
suit. No doubt Molloy would have cringed at the reimagin-
ings of those very things on the womens runways. Perhaps
THIS PAGE
the designers had all seen the results of the 2016 study
White tricotine jacket, published in the Social Psychological and Personality Sci-
OCT

660, and black velvet ence Journal linking clothing to strategic thinking, negotia-
trousers, 430, both tion skills and feelings of power, revealing that people were
232

EM PORI O ARMANI .
Sterling-silver earrings, more likely to perform like a boss when wearing more pol-
355, FAY AN D RAD A ished workwear pinstripes and all. For Armani, the beauty
OPPOSITE of work wear lies in its progression. The evolution of my style
Cotton shirt, 900,
has followed a path parallel to that of womens emancipa-
double-faced wool
skirt, 3,350, and tion. Today, women make their own choices and decisions
ELLE

leather boots, 1,020, independently, and not to please any man or society.
all TH E ROW at
MATC HE S FAS H I ON .
Earrings, as before

THE Its fitting that The Row has


become a byword for work-
wear. By the age of 18, twin

ROW sisters Mary-Kate and Ashley


Olsen had thriving acting ca-
reers, having starred in the
by B I B B Y S O W R A Y American comedy Full House
since they were nine months
old. They launched their first
clothing line at the age of 12,
and spent their teens wearing cut-to-size Chanel and Marc
Jacobs for their sitcom So Little Time . While most of us were
planning gap years, they were taking control of Dualstar, the
multi-million-dollar company they founded when they were
Photography: James Nelson

just six, to handle multiple merchandise lines and direct-to-vid-


eo films loved by tweens the world over. As such, they spent
their formative years surrounded by women in the upper ech-
elons of business, while becoming ground-breaking busi-
nesswomen themselves. They may lack formal design train-
ing, but they have enough hands-on experience to put many
of their qualified contemporaries to shame. Proof? They were
the second-most-Googled fashion designers of 2016.
POWER DRESSING became
- Mary-Kate Olsen

before then
WOMEN were working hard long
Named after Londons Savile Row, The Row began life as a quest to
design the perfect T-shirt. That snowballed into a seven-piece collection that
ELLE
234 OCT

included stretch-leather leggings and a cashmere-wool tank dress; plush


versions of basic pieces that could be added to any outfit for a sense of
low-key luxe. Now, its the go-to for refined elegance. Tailoring is key, and
there are no look-at-me details or eye-catching embellishments; these are
quiet clothes that speak volumes.
Its a new type of power dressing, a type that aims to nourish the wear- cashmere in versatile colours, and a skirt length suited to all shapes and
ers requirements, as opposed to meeting the perceived requirements of sizes (whether that be vertiginous, flat, curvy, or vertically challenged).
the outside world. We want our clients to feel comfortable and confident This is welcome news for young women in the early stages of their ca-
in any circumstance, so we always question what that is and keep that in reers, as well as those on the upper rungs of the ladder, as Rachaels at-
mind, says Ashley from The Rows New York studio. The autumn collection titude to inclusivity extends to price-point. I think in all respects, practice
wasnt about work wear, or feminism, or power dressing. The idea of strong ranks above preaching, so if were committed to giving women the choice
and fine tailoring has always been a part of The Rows DNA. of beautiful basics that can be dressed up and down, we want to give them
But dont get them wrong, theyre not eschewing the wave of activism the choice of buying those staples in multiple colourways with accessible
that swept the AW17 catwalks. Rather, they support it in their consistency. prices. Pieces from the current collection range from 85 to 2,100, and
Everyone copes with todays world differently, says Mary-Kate. Power include featherlight coats in a wool engineered by luxury clothiers in Japan,
dressing may have been popularised in the Eighties, but women were work- as well as fluid silks sourced from mills in Italy.
ing long and hard before then and dressed the part. Theres a green coat from the September drop that Im definitely
eyeing, Rachael says before adding that basic does not have to mean
a palette of black, navy and grey. In fact thats where Raey gets it right,
navigating the fine line between fashion and style, slipping with ease from

RAEY How do you think about workwear


when our work keeps changing? Not
only has public-sector employment in
the UK dropped by 15.5% since 2008,
seasonless basics in core colours to bolder, trend-led looks.
So will we see Rachael legging it behind a bus in Septembers puffa-
coats and side-split blouses? Youd better believe that if its on the website,
I can run in it and let it be known, for the record, that I can run in heels,
by S A R A M C A L P I N E with tech fast replacing staff, but were she says. I just choose not to. Thats a sentiment worth drinking to outside
increasingly ditching the nine-to-five- of office hours, obviously.
desk job. A quarter of 18 to
34-year-olds are now working as slashies with multiple jobs, or
portfolio careers, according to a study by Barclaycard*.
Were not dressing for one job, were dressing for a re-
ported average of four, a fact the team behind Raey, the ready- Grey wool blazer,
to-wear line launched by multibrand retailer Matches Fashion, 425, grey wool
is aware of. Its about practicality, insists Rachael Proud, the top, 195, and grey
Topshop and Christopher Kane alum now overseeing design wool trousers,
350, all RAE Y
and buying for Matches in-house label. When Im designing, at MATC H E S
Im thinking, Would I be able to wear it? Would it fit on me as FAS H I ON . White

* Slashie Generation Taking Up Paid Hobbies , July 2017. Photography: James Nelson. Hair: Hiroshi Matsushita
someone wearing multiple hats throughout the day, as I know a leather boots,
418, B Y FAR .
lot of women do now? Thats one of Raeys founding princi-
Sterling-silver
ples, creating luxury basics that fit seamlessly into the modern

using Oribe Hair Care. Make-up: Yae Pascoe using Nars Costmetics. Model: Ariela Soares at Storm
earrings, 355,
womans wardrobe. But what does modern mean in the con- FAY AND RAD A
text of a working womans lifestyle?
Simple: can you run for the bus in it? says Rachael, quick-
fire and to-the-point. Its obvious where the no-fuss sensibility
at the base of Raey comes from (and worth noting that the line
takes its name from its head designer). As for the notion that
practicality and polish are mutually exclusive, she says bin it.
Raey is predominantly for women who work, but I want you
to do whatever you like in it. Whether youre going to work, to
your friends house or to your grans. Its designed for you to
feel comfortable moving around in.
And pockets are requisite: Everything has to have pockets,
to make each piece functional, she says. We also think, How
does this piece move when you bend your knees? How does it
move as youre walking? Will this wear well? Is it easily wash-
able? Is it long-lasting?
Rachael of all people would know. Her typical work day in-
cludes commuting through London at peak time from a morning
gym class, overseeing the design and buying of Raey menswear
and womenswear, responding to calls and emails, and dealing
with strategy, as well as all the admin that comes with manag-
ing a large team. I couldnt do all that in what you might call
Apprentice dress, she says referring to the fitted skirt suits and
heels usually worn by contestants on the show.
Raey is all about nailing the building blocks of everyday
dress, with jewel toned silk-satin slips and camisoles, fine-gauge
Hes the man behind many of the
THI S PAGE , FRO M L E F T
Polymix coat, 139.99,
leather bag, 79.99,
and polyamide and
metallised fibre shoes,
79.99, all E R D E M X
H & M . Wool coat,
149.99, lace blouse,
79.99, leather bag,
199.99, and leather
boots, 139.99, all
E RD E M X H& M. Cotton
socks, stylists own
OP P O S I T E
Coat, bag, socks and
boots, all as before
ELLE
236
OCT

Now, hell reach his biggest audience


red carpets most detail-rich gowns.

Photographs by

JAMES
NELSON

All
Styling by

SOPHIE
VAN
DER WELLE

yet with a new H&M collaboration


obscure objects, vintage furniture and materials to reuse, including parquet
floors, marble and ironmongery. This is not just for their home but for Erdems
Mayfair shop, designed by Philip and featuring a Victorian fern garden, Al-
var Alto seating, art by Hockney, Warhol and Cocteau, and a harlequin pat-
terned marble floor. I wanted the feel of a pied--terre somewhere comfort-
able and private, he says of the townhouse space. Its wonderful to have a
home for the entire collection and see how women react to that, he adds.
Erdems success coincides with a slew of London-based designers finding
wider fame: Jonathan Saunders, Roksanda Ilincic and
the late Richard Nicoll joined Erdem in representing
the success of a new generation of British designers.
THE Throughout his career, Erdem has channelled
INTERVIEW his cross-cultural background and early sense of
Erdem rootlessness into creativity. He draws from personal
s office has shafts of light Moralioglu memories, impressions and culture in palimpsest-like
s that support glossy art, layers. That skill allows him to design clothes that
; the lenses of the design- manage to feel both relevant for now and timeless, a
ers trademark Oliver Peoples spectacles reflect the flicker defining quality of his work for H&M.
of a Cire Trudon candle perched on his desk. Is the scent too intense? he asks as I wanted to do the antithesis of fast fashion; a
he welcomes me into his workspace inside a converted Victorian fabric warehouse collection you would keep: the perfect tweed suit or
in Londons Aldgate. Walking into Erdems world is a kaleidoscopic, multi-sensory ex- brocade party dress, and working with Harris Tweed
perience where everything is perfectly poised yet slightly askew. This is true of his and small Italian mills to create it. All the cotton jer-
theatrical shows, his carefully curated boutique on Londons South Audley Street and sey is organic, he says. The Swedish high-street giant
his narrative-rich clothes. This autumn, his universe will expand considerably, when he kicked off its collaborative series in 2004 with Lager-
follows in the footsteps of Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Rei Kawakubo with a feld, and since then has worked with A-list designers
new collection in stores as H&Ms newest designer collaboration. To be precise, its including Marni, Versace and Balmain. By contrast,
220 stores around the world in 66 different countries. Erdem is a small independent known for his highly
The line-up of 48 pieces, which lands on 2 November, will come hot on the heels considered dresses. Felicity Jones, Michelle Obama,
of some of his most emotional work to date. His current collection, for example a Nicole Kidman and legions of women both in and out
mlange of Ottoman miniature and English florals, ravishing silk velvets and black of the public eye adore his romantic view.
voile gowns with swishing white petticoats started with Erdem fantasising about an The unlikely pairing began when H&M contacted
improbable meeting of his two great-grandmothers. One was from Birmingham and him last December. They approached me with the
the other from Istanbul; I imagined these two women together on the Womens March, idea that we could collaborate with a film-maker.
sharing their stories. I never wanted it to feel literal its a fuzzy set of memories com- I found myself thinking about a Nineties video for the
bined with the idea of a beautiful army of women marching. The figures in the show Pet Shop Boys that was directed by Bruce Weber.
felt almost like my family, he says. The 39-year-old was raised in Montreal, Cana- It takes place in the English countryside and sees a
da, by a British mother, Marlene, and a Turkish father, Erkal. His fathers side of the party of teenagers invading a stately house. The boys
family hailed from eastern Tur-
key, while his mothers came
from the Midlands. My great-
grandfather was a member Erdems AW17
collection took
of The Royal Scots regiment
English florals and
and died in France in the first Ottoman references Leather bag,
world war, and if you look as inspiration 199.99, wool
coat, 149.99, lace
closely at the current collec-
blouse, 79.99,
tion, there are bits of hidden and leather boots,
tartan alongside the Ottoman 139.99, all E RD E M
miniature patterns and mili- x H& M . Cotton
socks, stylists own
tary motifs, he adds.
Amazing, wonderful,
interesting: these are words
that Erdem uses a lot, in an
accent still tinged with a slight
north American drawl. None-
theless, he does not engage
in the fakery and histrionics for which the fashion
industry is known. He plays his part as the tuxedo-
clad professional at red-carpet events and the eru-
dite speaker at conferences, but otherwise maintains
a private life with his partner, the interior architect
Philip Joseph, from their newly restored house in east
London. It is perfect, of course apart from the fact
there are still no door handles in the kitchen. And
you can print that! They met at the RCA and both
have twin siblings. Erdems sister, Sara, works for the
BBC in current affairs. The couple adores hunting for
are wearing tuxedos and T-shirts and the girls are running around in gowns. I liked
the idea of playing with the formal and informal, he says. When the name Baz Luhr-
mann was mentioned, Erdem was hooked. Hes such an amazing storyteller, and Words by
once I knew there was this opportunity to work with him, how could I say no? he
smiles. The Academy Award-nominated director, whose credits include The Great H A R R IET QUICK
Gatsby and Romeo + Juliet , worked with Erdem to create a video campaign for the
collaboration that features models running through a Hampshire garden wearing
pieces from the collection. The H&M line has the same thread
of personal history running through it. I love the idea of look-
ing backwards to create things that could feel completely new and AW17 embodied how modernity meets ideas past, she adds. With
again, he says. He looked to photographs of his father in the a sanguine outlook and wickedly dry sense of humour, Erdem is more than
Seventies wearing slim-fitted tweed sports jackets, to memories equipped to ride through the storms that have crashed through the business,
of his mother flinging a military coat over a short dress to do the exacerbated by difficult economic times and rapidly changing tastes. And
school run and to his own archive of pieces dating from his very his escapist aesthetic, combined with his expertise in rarefied fabrics and
first collection in 2005. patterns (Erdem trained in textiles at the Royal College of Art), is certainly
Making the leap from designing 3,000 gowns to ones proving a long-stayer.
that cost a fraction of that amount with equal integrity and a His graduate collection featured vintage textile seconds that he found
sustainable ethos is no easy task. The H&M line includes floral in Paris flea markets, mixed with African batiks discovered in London, which
embroidered hoodies, T-shirts and high-necked blouses, as well laid the groundwork for his future brand. In 2001, the Foreign and Com-
as hosiery, shoes and earrings, all ranging from 15 to 230. monwealth Institute awarded him a Chevening Scholarship, making Erdem
From the beginning, our collaborations have been about the first ever fine arts or fashion student to receive the bursary. It was the first
of many accolades, including the British
Fashion Councils (BFC) Fashion For-
ward Award in 2008, the 2010 inaugu-
ral Vogue/BFC Designer Fashion Fund
Make-up: Yae Pascoe using Nars Costmetics. Models: Ariela Soares at Storm and Carla Ciffoni at IMG. Backstage photography: Jamie Stoker
Erdem x H&M available from 2 November; hm.com. Photography: James Nelson. Hair: Hiroshi Matsushita using Oribe Hair Care.

Lace blouse, 79.99,


silk trousers, 69.99,
and leather shoes,
139.99, all ERDEM x
H&M. Wool coat
and leather bag,
as before

OCT
breaking down the walls of
fashion and giving people
the chance to own clothes by
designers they may not usu-
Erdem Moralioglu
ally get to wear, says Ann-
alongside some of his
Sofie Johansson, H&Ms references at his
creative advisor. I love how east London studio
Erdem talks about the collec-
tion like the perfect getaway
in a country house, bringing
together different generations and people from all sorts of back- Award, the British Fashion Councils New Establish-
grounds. When the collection is revealed, youll see this story ment Award in 2012, the BFCs Red Carpet Award
come to life in such a special way. The collection is also a nod in 2013, and the BFCs Womenswear Designer of
2
to British heritage, using ethereal silks, carefully chosen embel- the Year Award in 2014. Not to mention hes won
ELLE

lishments and the language of flowers from the English garden, the ELLE Designer of the Year Award in 2015 and 2017.
she says. In other words, its a true extension of his polished, And yet, despite the awards and celebrity following, what Erdem seems
slightly skewed, completely immersive world. to appreciate most is that moment we all experience in front of the mirror,
Erdem is sold in more than 170 of the worlds most exclusive whether thats in a VIP fitting room or an H&M store. When you zip up
retailers, including Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, a dress or button up a blouse and look at yourself in the mirror, success
Joyce, Colette, Dover Street Market, Selfridges and Harvey comes down to that moment of seduction, and thats why all of us do what
Nichols. His signature romance plays with the light and dark, we do, he says. Of course I have pangs of anxiety and doubt like any-
creating a tension that moves his aesthetic forward, says Lydia one else, but I just keep going. The people Im around are grounded as
King, Selfridges director of womenswear. We are always well, and that helps. Its never the end of the world. For the sake
so excited to host Erdems shows in the Old Selfridges Hotel, of our wardrobes, we hope not.
e lle p r o m o t i o n

STYLING BY

ROBERTA HOLLIS

all
wrapped
up
Quality and value in a carefully curated
showcase of AW17s key trends its all yours
to discover in-store and online at MATALAN
The catwalk may be where
trends are first showcased, but its when
those ideas make their way on to the High
Street that they really come to life and
grow. At Matalan that means taking the
best of the seasons high-fashion trends and
channelling them into styles that will work
across every area of your life. That includes
key seasonal
Matalan channels trends pieces such as
the oversized
into styles that work across padded coat
every area of your life and faux-sherling
jacket featured
here (volume and texture are key features
of AW17s trends), while the summers
fashion for statement sleeves looks set to
continue long into the cooler months (and
quite possibly beyond). Youll find these
and the rest of Matalans most on point
pieces at brands dedicated Trend Store.
Find out more at matalan.co.uk
OPPOSITE PAGE Asymmetric padded jacket, 40,
cropped skinny jeans, 16, and ribbed polo neck
(just seen), 7 THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
Faux-sherling jacket, 40, denim shirt, 18, and skinny
jeans, 16. Tie-detail top, 14, and skinny jeans, as
before. Velvet padded jacket, 35, velvet mini skirt, 10,
and colour-block jumper (just seen), 14. All MATALAN
a
be uty elle

NEW-
SEASON
SMILE
RED LIPS
PRETTY
SLEEK HAIR
BROWS

Edited by

SOPHIE
Photograph by Daniel Thomas Smith

BERESINER

YOUR COLLAGEN CRIB SHEET, MADEMOISELLES ADVENTURES IN


HAIR EXTENSIONS, PLUS LIP FILLERS: WILL YOU CHANGE YOUR MIND?
THE LOOK

2.
GLOSS
(Previous page) More in the polished, shiny sense than the literal one.
5. 1. J OH N F R I E D A
Frizz-Ease Original
6 Effects Serum, 6.99
2 . J OH N F R I E D A
Luxurious Volume Core
Restore Advanced
Hair is super-groomed, usually with a very deep side part and hairsprayed Protein Volumiser, 10
to perfection. Super-sleek in texture, whether its up or down, and of course the lips 3 . RI M M E L Brow This
1.
and brows need a bit of power in them. That means more (this time brow) grooming, Way Fibre Pencil in 0 0 2
and a punchy, perfectly applied red lipstick. Always red. Medium, 4.99
4 . J OH N F R I E D A
4. Frizz- Ease
3. Miraculous Recovery
Conditioner, 6.99
5 . W E L L A Fusion Intense
Repair Mask, 15.40

7.
6.

THE LOOK

CANDY
Think of sweeter things when
applying your eyeshadow.
Reference the pastelised tones of
mini eggs (like Mary Katrantzou
did for her AW17 show), all your
favourite candy colours, from
yellow to lilac to pink to duck-egg
blue. Youre not necessarily
applying it in the conventional
way, either, more pushed up into
the eyebrows, sometimes actually
in the eyebrows. The rules are,
there arent any rules. Youre
as cute as you are cool.
6 . K IK O High Pigment
Wet & Dry Eyeshadow
in 28 Pearly Lime Green
and 24 Pearly Violet,
6.90 each
7 . D O LC E & GABBANA
The Eyeshadow Quad
in Summer Dance, 44
8 . L O R D & BER R Y
20th Anniversary Make
Up Kit including (from
left) Sunflower, Lagoon,
Rhapsody and Pink
Ribbon, 45

8.

Strapless bonded

244
viscose and satin dress,
ELLE OCT
1,690, M A R N I
BEAUTY

Edited by

SOPHIE
BERESINER

IE
Photographs by

DANIEL
THOMAS
SMITH
1.

2.

1. L OR A L Professionel
TecniArt Pli, 14 .5 0
2. W E L L A Oil Reflections
Light Luminous Reflective
Oil, 1 6
3. J O H N FR IEDA
Frizz-Ease Secret Agent 3.
Touch-Up Crme, 5 .9 9
OP P O SIT E
4. MA C Matte Lipstick
in Red Rock, 1 6 .5 0
5. L OR A L Infal Paint
Lip Lacquer in 105
Red Fiction, 6 .9 9
6. D IOR Vernis Couture
Colour in Red Glove, 2 0
7. G IV E N C H Y Lip Liner in
06 Carmin Escarpin, 18

Silk chiffon dress,


14,400, F E N D I
BEAUTY
THE LOOK

LOVE
Passionate, rolling-in-the deep romantic, snogged off lips (in the words of Val Garland, champion of
the lived-in-and-loved look backstage at Preen), inappropriately dishevelled hair, sexy with a capital
S. Once youve applied your matte-red liptick, straight from the bullet, buff it out over your lip line as
much as youre comfortable with. Same rules apply to eyeliner, hair, everything. Basically, do it right,
then un-do it as much as you dare.

6.

7.

5.

4.

ELLE
247 OCT
BEAUTY
Lok Lau at CLM Hair & Make-up using Oribe. Nails: Ama Quashie at CLM Hair & Make-up using Dior Vernis Fall Look and Capture Totale Nurturing Hand Repair Cream. Model: Charlotte Wiggins at Select Models
Photography: Daniel Thomas Smith. Beauty: Joely Walker. Styling: Sophie Van Der Welle. Make-Up: Mary Jane Frost @ CLM Hair & Make-up using Dior Fall Look 17 and Capture Totale Dreamskin Advanced. Hair:

1 . C HANEL Palette
Essentielle Conceal-
Highlight Colour in 160
Beige Medium, 52
2 . NAR S CO SM ET IC S
Velvet Lip Glide
in Unlaced, 22
3 . J O HN FR IEDA
Frizz-Ease Moisture
Barrier Intense Hold
Hairspray, 5.99
4 . J O HN FR IEDA
Luxurious Volume Perfectly
Full Mousse, 5.99
5 . AR M ANI Eye Tint
in 19, 28

THE LOOK

RICH
Cashmere roll neck,
3,145, BOTTEGA VENETA

1.
Imagine a townhouse dwelling, 3.
outdoorsy, just-tended-to-the-
horses vibe. And apply it to your
2.
hair. This means taking pride in
the texture. Like youve taken
care of yourself which
involves actually taking care
of yourself. Put the nourishment
in, cut off the ends, use a mask, 4.
use a styling-heat-protecting
spray, but dont be too perfect
about it. The texture is 5.
expensive, the finish is effortless.

E L L EE L L E CO
T CT
TOO
LIPPY?

Welcome to
the age of the
lip job, where
plumping your
pout with llers
is potentially
as mainstream
as teeth
whitening.
But how did Photograph by

we get here? HARRI


PECCINOTTI

Joely Walker
investigates
BEAUTY
Some trends enter the beauty zeitgeist overnight, infiltrating our social sister, Kylie Jenner (aged 17 at the time), about her
media feeds for a short while before returning to oblivion. Then there are enhanced lips. As a result, Google searches for lip
the mainstays those that slice through the buzz and carve out their place fillers peaked globally, and one London clinic reported a 70% rise in
as a decade-defining beauty movement. Think Nineties over-plucked enquiries over the next 24 hours.
brows, Noughties D-cup boob jobs and, now, our fixation with lip fillers. Jenner had previously sworn her lips were simply a make-up trick.
But you knew that already. Youre living in the age of the lip job, with But why? Im just not ready to talk to reporters about my lips yet, she
the number of Google searches for lip fillers in the UK 10 times higher than said. People are so quick to judge me on everything. She makes a valid
the figure from 2012 and lip augmentation proving the most popular non- point: our social media culture and the anonymity it offers means were
surgical cosmetic treatment of 2016, according to whatclinic.com. unashamedly quick to judge, call out or comment if someone particularly
But how did fillers move on from their trout pout reputation to the another woman has had work done. Indeed, in this instance we did, but
modern working womans tweakment of choice? These days, it what was arguably more interesting was the admiration of those wishing
seems plumping ones lips with a syringe full of filler is as routine as teeth to emulate the look; admiration that helped Jenner build an empire she
whitening and as easy to fit into your lunch break as a shellac manicure. launched her debut line of Lip Kits that same August, which sold out and
Scroll through Instagram and youd be forgiven for thinking that our subsequently sparked a thousand imitations. No longer fazed by the
obsession with pouting perfection is a recent phenomenon. In fact, it judgement, Jenners venture into cosmetics helped make her the youngest
supersedes the millennial era, with the American Society of Plastic ever person to feature on the Forbes Celebrity 100 list.
Surgeons 2016 report highlighting an increase of 50% in lip augmentations Leading cosmetic doctor (and go-to for the beauty industry)
for 18 to 55-plus-year-olds between 2000 Dr Frances Prenna Jones noticed a
to 2016. surge in demand for lip fillers in her clinic
Angelina Jolie certainly piqued
our interest (and envy) for the naturally
plump lip in 1999 with the release of
Our social around a similar time, with a steady rise
ever since. Women of all ages enter
my clinic for cosmetic lip treatments;
Girl, Interrupted, but it was 16 years
later that one 17-year-old reality-TV media culture half want a natural aesthetic, while
the other half still ask for a Kylie
star cemented the worlds burgeoning
obsession with augmentation. In May
2015, a preview episode of Keeping Up
and the certain Jenner look. Does she find this
surprising, considering her clientele
is made up of such a broad range
With The Kardashians aired, in which
Khlo Kardashian asked her youngest anonymity of working women? Im continually
blown away by the sheer volume of

it offers women asking for this; Kylie Jenners


influence is undeniable.
Sadly, the quest for lip perfection

means were isnt always so straightforward, with


lack of regulation leaving women at

unashamedly risk of botch jobs. These treatments


are now very straightforward, and
dangerous side effects are extremely

quick to judge rare, Dr Prenna Jones explains, but


should an issue such as anaphylaxis,
occlusion of blood vessels, allergic
reactions or extreme swelling occur,
I personally dont believe anyone other than a doctor, who is governed
by strict rules and regulations, would be best suited to dealing with and
rectifying such issues. Save spas and beauty salons for facials never
(ever, ever) fillers and choose your doctor wisely. The one question Dr
Prenna Jones recommends asking your practitioner? How many times
have you done this before?
The good news: where theres demand, theres supply. Cue a wave of
innovative products and treatments appearing in clinics over the past year.
One such treatment is the Lip Smoothie, spearheaded by medical doctor
and specialist dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams of Eudelo London. It
involves taking a small amount of the patients blood and placing it in
a centrifuge extractor to produce a platelet-rich plasma (or PRP). Post-
development, its mixed with hyaluronic acid before being injected into
lips. The result? Aside from instant fullness, it stimulates tissue regeneration
by kicking your stem cells into gear, which prevents loss of plumpness
down the line.
For those concerned with outline as much as size, Dr Tijion Esho of The
ESHO Clinic has pioneered the Cupids Bow Lift, whereby micro threads
are passed through the philtrum (the vertical groove in the middle area of
the upper lip) for a subtle, natural-looking resting pout. If softness and
improved texture are your end game, theres Volbella a dermal filler
treatment by Dr Bernard Hayot, which can be injected superficially under
the mucosa membrane to smooth out dehydrated-looking lips without
plumping. More intriguing still, if injected into lips for fullness, it doubles up
as a shine-booster due to its higher concentration of hyaluronic acid, which
boosts hydration of the dermis (the deep living tissue beneath the skins

ELLE
251 OCT
BEAUTY
surface, where all the real work goes on). A semi-permanent lip gloss of
sorts, this will set you back 400.
Lips are big business, says Emma Grace Bailey, associate beauty
editor at global trend-forecasting company WGSN. While some might
opt for the more permanent mimicry of fillers, brands are also realising
FILLER Tempted by lip fillers but
want the facts first? Dr Frances
the need for less invasive solutions. Treatment-based formulas have
been appearing on the market over the past few months, targeting those
looking for temporary enhancements. These include Versos Lip Serum,
FAQs Prenna Jones answers Googles
most-searched questions.

which contains Retinol 8 and stabilised vitamin A, and Dr Brandts 3D


Lip Plump Fix, which helps stimulate fat cells to maintain and enhance WHAT ARE THEY?
fullness. Delivering clever concepts for an equally savvy consumer. The filler itself is made up of a hyaluronic
And if needles, short-term plumping products and wishful thinking acid molecule, which is a naturally occurring
arent your thing, theres always make-up. The easiest trick in the book is compound in the body that attracts water and
a reflective gloss or pearlescent highlighter in the centre of the lips and can hold up to 1,000 times its own weight.
atop the Cupids bow attracting light to all the right places. Diors new Injected, this results in a
Rouge Dior Double Rouge lipsticks do the job for you by tracing the outer plumper, fuller lip effect.
edge of lips with a deeper shade and the inside with a complementary CAN ANYONE
pop of lighter metallic. It all comes down to the right colour combinations GET THEM?
of matte and metallic, of which we tried hundreds, explains their For fillers, Botox and both
creator and Dior Make-Ups invasive and non-invasive
creative and image director, ROD I AL Dragon D I OR procedures, patients need
Peter Philips. Blood Lip Mask, Dior Addict to be aged 18. Plus, no clinical
6 for one Lip Maximizer
Volume and fullness are Lip Gloss, studies have ever proven that
most frequently top of the 25 each its OK to undergo treatment
lip wish list, but theres PMD while pregnant, when
another, more surprising Kiss Lip Plumping fluctuating hormones make it
element of the lip movement System, 125, D R FRAN C E S more difficult to predict results.
currentbody.com PRE N N A
thats only just beginning to
J ONE S
enter the conversation: lip
reduction. In the same report
Lip Work,
25 1 1 1 S KI N
HOW LONG
from the American Society Meso Infusion Lip Mash &
Plumping Duo, 95
DO THEY LAST?
of Plastic Surgeons, figures It depends on the product, the
revealed that lip-reduction patient and a number of other
surgery is dramatically on factors. As a ballpark figure, the
the rise with an increase first treatment should last four to
of 283% from 2015 to 2016, FI L L E RI N A six months, and after that can be
covering 3,547 operations Lip Volume anything from nine months-plus.
Grade 3, 69
in the US alone.
Unlike hyaluronic acid
WHATS THE
lip fillers which the body
can easily break down over
a period of four to six months Volume and fullness HEALING TIME?
There is no healing as such,
this procedure is invasive,
irreversible and requires are most frequently although swelling might occur
in a few cases for 24 to 48

top of the lip wish list


local anaesthesia. Certainly hours. Most patients see the
not something to be taken end result on the same day with
lightly, it involves removing very little swelling, as long as
skin from the wet-dry border theyve been to a reputable
OCT

of the lips (or vermillion), practitioner. If swelling should


before stitches are used to create a new lip line and shape. Aside from occur, we use ice cubes
252

decreasing size, patients can opt for reduction to help remove insoluble wrapped in gauze to cool
permanent fillers gone wrong (entirely different to your standard WHAT DO THEY the area to prevent bruising
injectable filler). COST? It varies depending and help reduce swelling.
You need only to search #LipReduction on Instagram to see nearly on the practitioner and product,
6,000 posts dedicated to before and after results. Although not entirely but you can expect to pay anything from 250 to beyond 1,500.
ELLE

new Thailand-based dermatologist Dr Nuttae Nuttapon confirms the You should think of it a little like a hairdresser you are paying for
popularity of lip fillers in Asia around five to 10 years ago its the wider the expertise of the practitioner rather than the actual product.
and escalating appeal thats significant. Our obsession with lips goes far
beyond the Kylie aesthetic, but to what end?
Throughout history, womens relationship with their own beauty WHAT IF YOURE NOT
standards has been tumultuous and that includes lips. Beauty ideals HAPPY WITH THE RESULTS?
are ever changing and, while we may not know what the future of our Go back as soon as possible to reverse the result.
face holds, its clear that for now at least lip alteration is on the We use an eraser enzyme that instantly dissolves the
cosmetic agenda more than ever before, as is the conversation around it. filler, returning your lips to their natural shape and form.
Bigger, plumper, smaller, glossier we clearly want our mouths to make
a statement before we actually open our lips. Lets just make sure
its a positive one.
BEAUTY EXPERT

Charlotte
Tilbury
The make-up artists real-life beauty
solutions have made her every savvy girls
go-to for glamour. She shows us how
THE O NE B EAU T Y unevenness in an instant.
MISTAKE TO AVOI D ? My Lip Cheat Lip Liner in Hollywood glamour, so I created this old
The wrong shade of Pillow Talk, 16, mimics Hollywood glamour meets Forties Russian
foundation. Test out the the natural shade of lips, espionage look, but with a modern twist, for the
colour in a natural light: so you can cheat a recent Ulyana Sergeenko couture 2017 show.
use your fingers to draw perfect pout in seconds.
a line of foundation onto
your cheek, neck and bronzed, beautiful skin. BEST SKINC ARE TIP ? 1. PREP THE SKIN: Re-energise the complexion
ears, and if its the right Summer make-up should When it comes to with a plumping moisturiser, then follow with my
colour, it should blend dial up your features and skincare, my top tip Retoucher pen (25) to erase any imperfections
seamlessly into the skin. accentuate luminous skin. would always be to but still allow the skin to show through.
cleanse, hydrate and 2. BRUSH UP BROWS to reveal their natural shape,
WHAT S YOU R CA RE E R-D E F IN I N G nourish the skin. I always fill in the gaps and elongate. Curl your lashes (ELLE
SIGNAT U R E SC ENT? MOMENT? say you cant have a loves H&M Lash Curler, 3.99), then apply my
My own perfume, Scent Launching my own beautiful painting Legendary Lashes Mascara (25) to top lashes.
of a Dream, of course. beauty brand nearly four without a beautiful 3. APPLY HIGHLIGHTER, such as Hollywood
It has top notes (lemon, years ago. I came up canvas. Its all about Beauty Light Wand (29), to the inner corners of the
peach and black pepper) with the brand idea at having a fresh, radiant eyes and across eyelids, the tops of cheekbones,
to lift the senses, erotic 13 and it developed as complexion. down the nose and onto the Cupids bow.

Compiled by Sophie Beresiner. Photographs: Graham Walser at Hearst Studios, Getty Images
floral notes (tuberose, I worked as a make-up
jasmine, frankincense, artist for 25 years.
violet and patchouli) Im passionate about Add a blush of colour to the cheeks with lipstick.
to attract love and light, empowering women Lightly dab and blend across the cheekbones
and seductive base notes to look and feel their and paint a stain on your lips. Try K.I.S.S.I.N.G
(Fire Tree, Iso E Super, most beautiful. lipstick in So Marilyn for olive skin tones, Matte
Hedione and Ambroxan) Revolution in Red Carpet Red for warm skin
to amplify your own scent. W H O IN S P IRE S YO U ? tones, and Hot Lips in Carinas Love for cool
I have a mix of creatives, skin tones (24 each).
MOST M EM ORAB L E rule breakers and
MA KE - U P MOM ENT? visionaries that I look
Creating Kates [Moss] to for inspiration:
incredible make-up look Coco Chanel, Helena
for her Castaway shoot
[for Vogue ] in June 2002.
Rubenstein, Walt Disney,
Steve Jobs, Winston
MY KIT
It kick-started a trend for Churchill, Este Lauder C H ARL OTTE TI L B URY
Magic Cream, 70
the list goes on. C HARL OTTE TI L B URY Instant
Beauty Glow Palette, 49
W HAT S YO U R B E ST CHARLOTTE TILBURY
MA KE - U P T IP ? Hollywood Beauty Light
Wand, 29
By tracing the natural S AM M C KNI GHT HAI R
outline of your lips, you Lazy Girl Dry Shampoo, 19
can completely re-shape C H ARL OTTE TI L B URY
Hot Lips in Carinas Love, 24
and re-size the cupids
OUAI Repair Shampoo, 22

254
bow, as well as any
ELLE OCT
BEAUTY

REAL
PROFILE
I CANT LIVE
WITHOUT
THREE WORDS

TALK
R+Co Bel Air Smoothing Shampoo,
19.95, and Conditioner, 20.95. THAT DESCRIBE
They make my hair really smooth,
and they smell amazing.
MY FITNESS
PHILOSOPHY ARE
AMANDA WHEN IT COMES
TO SKINCARE
uplifting, fun and regular.
I exercise every day to get my

SEYFRIED
endorphins going. Taking care
Im a creature of habit. In the of yourself doesnt have to
morning, I wash my face with be painful its all about finding
Cl de Peau Beaut Softening the right balance.

The hair. The face. The optimistic Cleansing Foam, 47, wipe my
face with toner and then moisturise
FOR MY LAST
outlook. Did we mention the hair? with Cl de Peau Beaut The
MEAL ON EARTH
We want what shes having Cream, 678. At night,
I do it all over again. Id serve manchego cheese
cupcakes in my back yard, with
sprinklers for entertainment.
THE BEST BEAUTY
TIP IVE BEEN GIVEN
is to wear a high-factor SPF all
the time, not just when Im in the
sun. I protect my skin as much
as I can. [ELLE Loves Dermalogica
Pure Light SPF50, 43.]

Compiled by: Joely Walker. Photographs: Kai Z Feng. Additional photographs: Graham Walser for Hearst Studios.
IN MY HANDBAG
YOULL FIND
Chapstick, 1.16, Cl De Peau
Beaut Concealer, 77, and
Givenchy Le Vernis nail varnish MOST PEOPLE
in Beige Mousseline, 17.50.
I FOLLOW
RIGHT BEFORE ON INSTAGRAM
are prolific Etsy sellers.
I GO TO BED
Amanda Seyfried is the face of Givenchy Very Irrsistible
I love people who embroider,
I put a little bit of lavender oil on knit and work with wool.
the tip of my nose. It calms me. You name it, Im into it.
[ELLE loves Neals Yard Remedies
Lavender Essential Oil. 7.50.]
MY SENSE
IN EVERY HOUSE OF SMELL
is incredibly strong Im
IVE OWNED sensitive to almost everything. I
theres a spot for me to paint. went through a phase of not
I have a room in Los Angeles wearing any fragrance, but
that looks straight out on to the now I love Givenchys Very
trees, and thats just perfect. Irrsistible Eau De Parfum,
I paint abstract watercolours, 60 for 50ml: its subtle,
and I only give them to the intriguing, and I adore the
people I feel closest to. shape of the bottle.

ELLE
258 OCT
BEAUTY
WHAT EXACTLY IS IT? Its the molecule
equivalent of a Tom Ford lipstick you can never have enough.
Collagen is the most abundant structural protein found in skin and
other connective tissues, and forms the foundations of strength
and structure in the body, explains aesthetic doctor Dr Maryam
Zamani. Think of it as the glue that holds everything together.
Its basically your bodys scaffolding: There are 16 types
and 29 sub-types of collagen, and they support everything from
the skin, ligaments, cartilage and bones because of their
impressively flexible strength.

COLLAGEN + YOUR SKIN Your skins elasticity,


strength and ability to replace dead skin cells (which make your
skin look dull) come down to collagen. It is the main component of

ELLE
our skin, making it the most important factor for visible skin health.
But this sturdy support system naturally declines with age, leaving

261
skin vulnerable to fine lines, wrinkles and loss of density.

YOUR COLLAGEN TIMELINE When were


young, our skin is crammed with strong, hardworking collagen
molecules. But our bodys natural collagen starts to decline
(albeit slowly and steadily) as early as our late twenties

OCT
until we hit menopause aka the collagen tipping point.

*
The peri-menopausal and post-menopausal period sees
the most rapid decline in collagen, at 30%, due to the
swift drop in oestrogen, explains consultant dermatologist
Dr Justine Hextall. At this point, the structure

The truth
becomes increasingly disorderly like single
bricks being knocked out of a wall, or that
frustratingly precarious Jenga tower.

about...
COLLAGENIts the make-or- THE ANTI-COLLAGEN OFFENDERS
Depletion of collagen is inevitable, but, like any form of skin

break molecule ageing, several factors are known to speed it up. But what are
the most notable collagen aggravators?

for healthy skin, SMOKING is one of the biggest anti-collagen contributors,


as it riles up enzymes that break down both collagen and elastin.
EXCESSIVE SUN EXPOSURE does this, too, as well as

but how much do causing DNA damage to cells and affecting the skins ability
to protect itself.

you really know POLLUTION contains harmful free radicals that can damage
skins strength and integrity, in turn degrading collagen levels.
ALCOHOL is a so-called anti-nutrient, because it encourages

about collagen?
Photographs: Graham Walser at Hearst Studios

depletion of essential vitamins and minerals from the body


while encouraging oxidative stress to cells that can cause
cellular damage.
EXCESS SUGAR can actually crystallise in the skin (a process
Words by
known as glycation) and damage collagen. Over long periods of
JOELY WALKER time, this can stiffen the skin and may accelerate visible ageing.
BURNT AND PROCESSED MEAT... contains free radicals that
can slow collagen-building processes, contribute to collagen
breakdown and encourage inflammation, which can damage
delicate collagen structures.

* Increasing collagen can also reduce cellulite and stretch marks


BEAUTY
DO SUPPLEMENTS REALLY WORK?
Theres been much debate over the efficacy of ingestible collagen
1.
supplements, with some swearing they dont make it past our gut
in high enough volumes to make a difference. But with the global
collagen market set to reach $6.63bn by 2025, formulas are
advancing. Some collagen compounds may be destroyed during the 2.
digestive processes, [but] chances of absorption depend on the size YOUR
of the compounds (known as peptides), explains nutritional food COLLAGEN-
therapist Alice Mackintosh. Use products that have been hydrolysed
3. BOOSTER KIT
[structurally changed using water] into low-molecular-weight peptides
that can pass through the gut wall and are more resistant to digestion. SAVVY S PF S
Nothing can replace a good diet, beauty regime and consistent sleep, 1. E L I Z AB E T H A R D E N
but research shows they can help support skins elasticity and hydration. City Smart SPF, 55
2. N I OD Survival 30, 25
THE PROS Skin aside, research suggests that collagen 3. C HAN E L UV Essentiel
supplements can help bones, joints and even gut health, and with 4. Multi-protection Daily Defender
growing research showing that a healthier gut can reduce everything SPF 50, 42
from anxiety to bloating, it shouldnt 4. S KI N C E UTI CA L S Mineral
be overlooked. Supplementation 5. Radiance UV Defense
has been shown to nourish, repair
EAT TO BOOST and build new collagen on the gut
SPF 50, 40.95

COLLAGEN membrane, which can reduce 7. AC E ANTIO XIDANT S


by Alice Mackintosh skin symptoms such as redness, 8. 5 . L A ROC HE -P O S A Y Redermic
dryness, irritation and conditions 6. C10 Serum, 29.50
The skin needs a variety of
such as acne and eczema, 6. Z O C-Bright Vitamin C
nutrients to stay healthy.
explains Mackintosh. But not all Serum 10%, 72.90
Eat your way to better skin
supplements are made equal: 7. ME D I K8 CE-Tetra Vitamin C
with the following:
collagen gummy bears or waters Antioxidant Serum, 63
V I TAM I N C is integral
are definitely not going to cut it. 8. MZ S K I N Lift &
for collagen creation and
Lustre Golden Elixir
healthy cell turnover.
Antioxidant, 210
Found in: red peppers, kale,
broccoli, strawberries.
V I TAM I N A is essential
for protecting collagen
structures in our cells.
Found in: sweet potato,
* The word collagen is derived
from the Greek word for glue
RESULTS -DR IV E N
RETINO LS
9. PE TE R TH O M A S R O T H
Retinol Infusion PM, 62.50
10. MURAD Retinol Youth
carrots, dark leafy greens, 10.
dried apricots. 9. PRO-COLLAGEN Renewal Serum, 65

Z INC is crucial for collagen SKINCARE ROUTINE 11. THE ORD I N A R Y Advanced
Retinoid 2%, 8
creation and can speed up Collagen is such a large molecule
12. D R D E NNI S G R O S S Ferulic
the skins healing processes. that penetration into the skin is
+ Retinol Wrinkle Recovery
Found in: meat, fish, sesame difficult, so its possible that the
Overnight Serum,
and pumpkin seeds. benefits seen in studies on synthetic
77 at Selfridges
SU L P HU R is a key building collagen in skincare could simply
block for collagen and come from skin hydration, explains
SERIOUS SUPPLE ME NT S
helps remove toxins. 11. Zamani. But you can protect your
13. I ME D E E N Advanced
Found in: eggs, broccoli, collagen resources and trick
Beauty Shot, 32.99
leeks, garlic. your skin into creating more with
for 10 x 15ml shots
topical products. Implement these
14. E QUI Beautiful, 62
collagen-boosting hacks.
for a 30-day supply
PR OT E CT ... Use a high-factor SPF
13. 15. TH E B E AUTY CH E F Collagen
12. that protects against both UVB and
Inner Beauty Boost, 29
UVA rays (the latter of which have
for 500ml at net-a-porter.com
a longer wavelength and are able
to penetrate clouds and glass).
PR OT E CT & T R ICK... Vitamin C in
15.
topical skincare boosts collagen production and helps inhibit the
enzyme responsible for breaking down collagen; check the label
for concentrations of 5-15%. Its also a powerhouse antioxidant.
14. T R ICK ... Retinol, part of the vitamin A family, is one of the few
topical ingredients repeatedly proven to stimulate collagen
production and reduce wrinkles. The big guns.

* A lack of collagen could be the cause of peeling, splitting nails


ELLE
262 OCT
MADEM
are applied to the sides and back
of my hair.

I AM For several weeks, I am a hor-


monally charged My Little Pony,
swishing though life without a care.
Then, three months after the Rock

-OIS
Gods party, when Inanch finally
removes my grown-out extensions,
I shrivel likea depressed walnut
and sob. Ever tried a clip-on?
asks my best friend on the phone
from Los Angeles. A strap-on? I
hear through my sobs, disgusted at
the suggestion of trying out a new

ELLE
sex act in a time like this. A C-L-I-P
O-N, she repeats, bored of my
first-world problems. Now theres
an idea.
At Daniel Hersheson Hair Sa-
lon, a ponytail is attached to my
head. For demonstration purposes
only, its bright blonde and clashes

This month,
horribly with my copper barnet.
Nevertheless, I stare at the great-
ness that is the 65 synthetic mas-

our beauty tery that just transformed my rat-tail


to ponytail in less than five sec-
onds. With the ponytail removed,

columnist says the stylist clips a Jane Birkin-esque


fringe to the front of my thinning
hair. Its black and I look odd, but I

hello to hair- remember the countless, immedi-


ately bemoaned haircuts and reck-

thickening extensions
on the no-regrets fringe (30) is an
absolute bargain.
The magic doesnt end there.
Caressing several lengths of hu-
man hair that can be clipped in
A LANKY, LIFELESS let-down, Ive been (beauty tip for my thin-haired sisters: pre-hot sex, or rather, on Im tempted to buy a pack of 10
locked in mortal combat with my own hair since spray your entire head with Batiste, because no for 146. Why? Held in place with incredibly
an early realisation that some of us were born one should wake up thinking theyve just bonked strong glue strips that wont wreck your hair, you
well-tressed, and some of us were not. Aged 14, Sid Vicious). Thanks to Avedas hair-thickening simply pop back to the salon six weeks later to
my fine hair got on my newly developed bosom tonic (miraculous), Philip Kingsleys thickening have them removed and re-glued back in. It
so much, I dyed it black and cut my fringe with shampoo and 500 tins of Batiste, Ive come to sounds so magical, I half expect Paul McKenna
nail scissors (note: not an ELLE beauty tip to try at terms with the one thing I cannot control: I have to appear via a nearby hairdryer, like a genie
home). Then, at 16, I discovered a hair-lightening shit hair. But Ill live. from a lamp.
product called Sun In; going weird orange on a Then, three months ago, Rock God Friend Within a month of being back to my fine-
family summer holiday remains unforgettable. invited me to his 50th birthday party and I had haired-self, I find myself in the Inanch London
(I can still hear their screams.) the meltdown of all hair-related meltdowns. chair again. With each extension, a carpet of lus-
The stinky yet truly volume-inducing Schwar- Guess who was on the guest list? Madonna. cious red tresses begins to roll down my back. If
zkopf hairspray, bought for 20p at the discount Yup. Fricking Madonna. With the dress sorted Dante Gabriel Rossetti were alive, Id be his
chemist where I worked every Saturday through- (a sexy, floor-length, snake-print thing by Preen), flame-haired muse. In black Ray-Bans, Im practi-
out my teens, was replaced a decade later I was set to go. Until I looked in the mirror and cally Cousin Its cousin, but man, I just love my
by the beauty equivalent of the Second Coming. saw a borderline middle-aged woman doing an Grace Coddington hair! Except its not mine, but
A religious experience *falls to knees, wor- impersonation of a thin-haired Florence Welch. I dont care. And neither did Madonna.
ships at the altar of hair greatness* dry sham- Bollocks. *Quickly googles best hair extensions
poo has been my holy grail hair go-to for years. in London.* Inanch London (inanch.com). An application of
With several sprays of Batiste (always Batiste), At boutique hair salon Inanch London, and one pack of Gold Class hair (25 extensions,
my limp hair ceases to stick to my forehead after an initial therapy session (I mean consulta- which is enough to thicken, but not lengthen)
tion), the stylist decides that half a head of exten- costs 300
sions should make me more Florence. She uses
Illustration by her own brand of ethically sourced, 100% human
hair called Gold Class, which she suggests leav-
JO
ing three inches past my own hair. Ordering two
RATCLIFFE packs of 40cm-long hair, each containing 25
extensions, she plans to blend two shades of
red together for a more natural look. A week
later, Im back in the salon chair as 50 extensions

ELLE
265 OCT
BEAUTY

SOPHIE Q My signature red lipstick definitely doesnt get me the

SAYS attention (I think) I deserve. Am I doing something


wrong? Im sure its my lipstick My friend wears MAC Ruby
Woo and always gets phone numbers. Shall I try Ruby Woo, too?
Marie, Essex
ELLEs beauty director
Sophie Beresiner tackles your
beauty woes and make-up
dilemmas. This month: nding
the perfect red lipstick
A Marie, I hate to break it to you, but youre probably
in the wrong shade for your skin tone. You know those
women who wear one bra size their whole adult lives, then they
go to Rigby & Peller and discover theyre actually a 32D and
suddenly all their clothes fit differently and they emerge from
their chrysalis as Sandy at the end of Grease? This could be
you. Saying that, in my opinion, red lipstick is right even when its
wrong (its my trademark right now Im wearing Maybelline
Color Drama in Light It Up, in case youre
interested), but you can always do better.
Consider this: do you know what your skin
tone is? Once youve established whether
your basic complexion is light, medium or
dark quite self-explanatory you need
MA YBE LLI NE Co
lor Dra ma to understand your undertone. The easiest
in Lig ht It Up , 4.99
way is to look at the veins on the inside of
your wrist in natural light. If they look green
then youre warm (yellow-toned), if theyre
BOURJOIS Rouge Velvet The Lipstick
in Rubis Cute, 8.99 purple or blue youre cool (pink-toned),
and if you cant tell, youre either neutral
HO UR GL AS
S Ul tra Sl or youre not very good at this game. In
Lip sti ck in I C im H ig h In te ns ity Re fil la
an t Liv e W ith bl e which case go to a beauty hall and ask a
ou t, 28
professional instead.
Now you can pick your shade of red.
GIVENCHY Le Rouge Sculpt in Rouge, 28
Mac Lipstick in Ruby Woo, 16.50, by the
way, is a blue-toned red, so if it works for
your friend, she probably has blue veins;
blue-reds balance out the pink in cool
skin tones and let the lips be the focus.
BARE MINERA LS Luxe Shine Lipstick BareMinerals Luxe-Shine Lipstick in SRSLY
in SRSLY Red, 18 Red, 18, is a softer pinkish option if you
dont want to go as punchy as a Ruby Woo. If you have warm
HOURGLASS Ultra Slim High Intensity Refill in Icon, 18 undertones, then a more orange red would work brilliantly on
you try Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet in First Light, 28. Neutral
undertones or olive complexions look great with bright, true reds or
CH AN EL Ro ug e
All ure Ve lve t in Firs more coral-based hues Try Bourjois Rouge Velvet The Lipstick in
Photographs: Imaxtree, Graham Walser at Hearst Studios

t Lig ht, 28
Rubis Cute, 8.99. Or you can cheat. Givenchy Le Rouge Sculpt,
28, is a very smart lipstick. The darker sculpting bit (it kind of lines
the lips for you), is PH-reacting, so it enhances the shade of red
Lip stic k
MA C Re tro Ma tte differently on each individual wearer. No guess work needed. So
.50
in Rub y W oo , 16
once you know your shade rule, you can go wild on the colour
spectrum, from deeply dark to almost fluoro. Build a lip wardrobe
(I have approximately 72 lipsticks in my arsenal), then go forth and
conquer. Those phone numbers arent going to call themselves.

ELLE
267 OCT
e lle p ro m o t i o n

She has a career as varied


a model
life
as it is accomplished, but what
really powers Lily Cole through her
world? The model-turned-actress
and entrepreneur reveals all, courtesy
of DYSON SUPERSONIC
m
ELLE and Dyson
Supersonic
spent a day with
idway into conversation with Lily Cole Lily in her native
former model, actress, social entrepreneur, London. Watch
writer, director (the list goes on) she the video at
mentions a famous quote by playwright Samuel Beckett: elleuk.com/
lilycole
Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better. Its
an apt reference for someone who, on paper at least, seems
to have no fear of failure or anything else.
She laughs. I generally try not to be limited by fear.
I mean, there are some types of fear you definitely have
to avoid dont jump in a fire, right? but emotional fear;
fear of doing something thats challenging? If Im scared of
it, it almost makes
me think I should do
it, because I know
Im only going to
overcome that fear I try not to be limited by fear.
by trying. If Im scared of it, it makes me think
Which brings us I should do it because Im only going
neatly to that quote:
to overcome that by trying
Coles point being
that if you dont see
[failure] as an end
but as part of the process it should help you grow.
As youve likely gathered, Cole has a wise head for one
of her relatively tender years. At just 29, she has already tried,
achieved (Tried again. Achieved better), more than many do
in a lifetime. What drives her to follow new paths?
Its a mix of things, she says after a pause, noting that
shes been fortunate enough to have lots of opportunities in
my life. That said, Some decisions have been easy, some
harder. To go back to university was a hard one. (After
deferring for two years Cole famously turned her back on an
ascendant film career to attend Kings College, Cambridge
in 2008). But again, it felt like a really powerful opportunity
that I would learn a lot from, even if I didnt quite know what
at the time. One thing just leads to another.
There is no primary passion, Cole notes when asked about
the breadth and variety of her CV. For her its more about
being able to explore her creativity, wherever that might
take her. Among the many projects she continues to juggle,
from Impossible.com the social impact tech company she
established in 2014 to encourage a gift-economy culture The DYSON
to her most recent film role in indie flick Orion , Cole is now SUPERSONIC
also trying her hand at screenwriting. hairdryer
(299.99)
I might not do anything with them, she caveats quickly
was fted as a
of her scripts-in-waiting. Ive never written a screenplay gamechanger
before and I might decide Im better off to leave that job upon release
to other people. She laughs, but based on previous form, last year. Find
its probably only a matter of time. Onwards and upwards! out more and
shop it at
dyson.co.uk
MOOD BOARD

MAKE-
UP

SMART
EYE-CONIC
If you love a bold eye
THE ONE
MOUTH as much as Marc Jacobs SUPER BY SOPHIE BERESINER

Dior Rouge Dior Double loves a bold eye, you SKIN For the record, Victoria Beckham taught
Rouge in Miss Crush, should both apply all me, beauty director and therefore
Bare Minerals Bare
27.50, is a brilliant this eye-joy and go to a expert, something new about make-up,
Pro Performance Wear
three-dimensional party together. Wearing Liquid Foundation, 29 purely by collaborating with Este
matte-metallic lipstick. The Marc Jacobs Eye-Conic (below), has too many Lauder and creating my most favourite
frosty core blends into the Longwear Eyeshadow pros to write down, no thing: Modern Mercury. The wet-look
darker outline for a clever, Palette in Smartorial, cons whatsoever unless bronzer-highlighter-hybrid that changed
pillowy finish. For more 39 (below), of course. you dont like your my face for the better forever (until it
3D, multi-tone genius, try skin looking naturally sells out or runs out and I go back to
Smashbox Be Legendary perfected, being being unsculpted and a bit paler) is
Triple Tone Lipstick in improved with wear and BACK! This news requires CAPITALS
able to breathe through to emphasise its GREATNESS. This
Insta-Ombr, 17.50, and
the coverage, too. incarnation is in a tweaked leather case
Givenchy Le Rouge Sculpt
in Rouge, 28 (all above). so collectible, so chic and is joined
by an epic mascara with a wand so tiny
it seems kind of inconsequential. Until
you use it, and see each and every lash
get a not-insignificant growth spurt. And
while Im on the subject, the new nude
lipstick, aptly called Victoria, is richer
BEAUTY LEXICON: and cooler than before, in the tonal and
cultural sense. Im bulk ordering to save

GRANNY SHADOW myself the sell-out heartache.


ELLE

Wrong-but-right colour to take a


nostalgic trip through avocado or sky
271

blue. That little bit of frumpiness


takes you to a more fashionable place
OCT

MAC DIRECTOR OF MAKE-UP ARTISTRY TERRY BARBER


(@TERRYBARBERONBEAUTY)
MOOD
BOARD
IF YOU BUY ONLY
ONE THING
THIS MONTH
You know how exfoliating your
face helps remove product C I T Y-
build-up and dry skin, leaving SLICKER
your face softer and instantly THE DO-
HAIR
more glowing? Now apply that I T -A L L
We slap antioxidant

to your hair with Redkens new serums on our faces to


fight off free-radical
Diamond Oil Gloss Dry Gloss Basically, anything
Oribe creates is going aggressors caused by

Scrub, 17 (below). Same deal. to make your life


easier and your hair
pollution (if you dont
already, start), but our
infinitely better. This hair? Pah, its been
is proved furthermore subjected to heat styling
by Straight Away for years its hardcore.
Smoothing Blow Out But actually, its not. And
Cream, 44 (above), pollution makes it dull
a heat-protecting, and lacklustre. Undo the
cuticle-smoothing, damage with Charles
core-strengthening, Worthington Radiance
spilt-end-sealing, Restore Charcoal
frizz-controlling Shampoo, 6.99
HAIR genius cream of the (above), with detoxifying

FO D D E R
Two of the worlds most
A gods that you will
wonder how you lived
without. Too far?
activated charcoal.

expensive foods go into We think not.


Show Beautys Riche THE TREND:
Leave-In Conditioner,
35 (below), and it turns
NON-
out theyre as amazing for C O M M I T TA L
your hair as they are bad C O LO U R
for your wallet. Caviar
Dipping into bold colours
and white truffle are
has never been easier, or
packed with amino acids
better for your hair, with
and proteins to strengthen
Clairol Color Crave Semi
and hydrate. Were
Permanent Hair Colour,
impressed and hungry.
7.99 (below). These
new formulas set the bar
high, with impressive
colour pay-off and
innovative ingredients.
Get involved.

ELLE
272 OCT
REMEMBER
THIS
Excessive and intense,
this oriental scent is as
memorable as Muglers
decade-defining Angel,
with a fresh botanical
twist. Mugler Aura,
69 for 50ml Eau de
Parfum (right). WO R K O F A R T
Hold the phone: this is not
SEXY a paintbrush, its a perfume.
B E A ST Jo Loves White Rose & F R AG R A N T
Lemon Leaves Fragrance
Michael Kors Sexy Paintbrush, 40 for 18ml FA N TA S Y
Ruby Eau de Parfum (below), paints a scented Created by conceptual artist perfumer
spray, 90 for 100ml gel on to your skin. Paul Schtze, Cirebon, 135 for 50ml (above),
(right), does exactly Kooky and so cool. is esoteric and ethereal all at once.
what it says on the
label its sultry,
sparkly, Friday-night
fodder.

MOOD BOARD

TWICE
AS NICE
Aerin Tuberose Le Jour
and Tuberose Le Soir,
145 each for 50ml
(above and below), is
the scent of tuberose
SIGNATURE captured at dawn and
SCENT sunset. Dreamy, right?

If I had to describe it in three words,


says Natalie Portman (right) of Diors new
Miss Dior Eau de Parfum, they would be
sensual, passionate and rebellious. Jasmine
and orange blossom are my favourite
smells, so I like to spritz this in the air and
walk through it, letting the scent subtly
settle. And who are we to argue?
104 for 100ml.

ELLE
275 OCT
MOOD
BOARD
Product photographs: Graham Walser/Studio 33. Other photography: Jason Lloyd Evans, Imaxtree, David Slijper

FROM T
THE
BEAUT
TY
CUPBOA
ARD
BY JOELY WALKER
Please tell me youve
tried the original Fresh
Vitamin Nectar Face
Mask, 56? It smells like
actual crushed oranges PORE
(it has real dried fruits in
the formula) and gives
PAT RO L
KI
Last year, Beauty Pie
you notably glowy-er,
shook up the beauty
BUBBLE
healthier, all-round better
skin in 10 minutes, once
industry with its make-up UP
without the mark-up
the gentle fruit acids have The latest Korean skincare
concept, delivering luxe
exfoliated away the bad, craze making waves?
revealing all the good
make-up at factory prices
Bubble masks. Far more
SENSITIVE
underneath. Now apply
for a monthly subscription
fee. Now, theyve
than merely a fad, the ISSUE
that to your daily regime, tiny bubbles lift dirt
ventured into skincare, Sensitive skin is like your
and try Vitamin Nectar and excess oils off the
and its as innovative as most hormonal friend:
Moisture Glow Face skin in minutes.
youd expect. For all- it gets aggravated
Cream, 42. Its all kinds Try Cliniques Pep-Start
round skin refinement, try quickly and, once riled
of happy-skin making Double Bubble Purifying
Plantastic Micropeeling up, is a total pain in
and delivers glow in all Mask, 24.
Super Drops, 50, or the A to settle. Enter
the right places.
6.97 with subscription. Lancmes Advanced
Genifique Sensitive
Double Concentrate,
59, a genius one-month
soother treatment for
flare-ups such as redness,
roughness or itchiness,
to be used two to three
times a year.

(NOT SO) FUN FACT...


Each day, our eyes experience more than 10,000
micro-movements through blinking alone, causing
ne lines. The good news? Este Lauder has launched
Advanced Night Repair Eye Concentrate, 49, its
most advanced eye product yet.
ELLE
277 OCT
e lle p r o m o t i o n

roads less
travelled
Theres more than one way to let life in.
Embrace them with new HERBAL ESSENCES
BIO:RENEW, inspired by nature

If youre looking for ways to improve your life and


wellbeing, what form does that take? When were
looking to enhance and enrich our lives its all too
easy to think of that as something that needs to be
done that the path to anything from relaxation
to enlightenment has to involve some outward
manifestation of that journey: conquering a phys REPAIR
challenge such as trekking to Everest Base Cam
say, or getting in touch with your authentic self
YOUR HAIR
on a yoga mat or at a Argan oil has become a firm
silent retreat in somee favourite for anyone keen to
Make a promise far-flung corner of enhance and nourish their hair.
No wonder its a key ingredient
the globe.
to yourself to take In fact, the key
in one of the seven-strong
collection of Herbal Essences
some time out to to personal fulfil nt can bio:renew shampoos and
lie much closer to home. conditioners. Using advanced
enjoy a moment Weve all heard about technology to harness the
power of nature and science,
how important it is to live in
of stillness alone the moment, but for many
its fragrant blends are designed
to suit different haircare needs.
of us thats easier said than Herbal Essences bio:renew
done. (Hence that exotic yoga retreat its got to be Argan Oil of Morocco shampoo
more doable if you schedule that moment in, right?) and conditioner promotes
silkiness and shine while helping
What it really comes down to is appreciating and to repair damaged hair all
taking pleasure in the little things. Make a promise to wrapped up in a scent of citrus
yourself to take some time out every day to enjoy a and spice that will take you on
moment of stillness alone even if its just during your an life-enriching journey without
Buy Herbal having to leave home.
morning shower. You might be pleasantly surprised Essences
to discover how quickly you reap the rewards of just bio:renew Visit herbalessences.co.uk and
at Waitrose @HerbalEssencesUK on
10 quiet, meditative minutes enjoying the sights, the
now (4.50 Instagram to find out more
sounds and the fragrances around you. each)
TOP SHELF C H AN E L leather bag, 4,160. C H AN E L Gabrielle Eau
De Parfum, 79 for 50ml. ROD I AL Rose Gold Serum, 190. RE AL T E CH N I Q U E S
Bold Metals Collection Arched Powder Brush, 22. N I P + FAB Make-up Primer
Water, 10. D I OR Vernis True Nail Polish in Enigma, 20. CH A N E L Le Lift
Skin-Recovery Sleep Mask, 80. Silver jug, stylists own.

SECOND SHELF:
PERRICONE MD Omega 3
Supplements, 75.
CHANEL metal, crystal and
strass earrings, 725 (sold
as pair). KIKO Super
Colour Eyeliner in
Shimmering Gold, 6.90.
AVEDA Chakra 3

BEAUTY
Balancing Body Mist, 30.
CHANEL grosgrain brooch,
THIRD SHELF: B O B B I
360. BOBBI BROWN Luxe BROWN Luxe Lip Colour
Lip Colour in Neutral Rose, in Sunset Orange, 27.
27. HERMS Terre S T I L A Colour-Balm

SHELFIE
dHerms Perfumed Soap, Lipstick in Elyssa, 16.
20. SISLEY Sislea Eye & J O M A L O N E English
Lip Contour Cream, 125. Pear & Freesia Travel
GUERLAIN Blurring Active
Candle, 23 (earbuds,
Make-up Base, 32. stylists own). CH A N E L
DR FRANCIS PRENNA
Gabrielle Eau de
JONES Formula 2006,
Parfum, 112 for
149. CHANEL Retractable 100ml. B E A U T Y P I E
Dual-Tip Concealer Brush, Quick Colour Contour
38. DIPTYQUE Amber Supergel, 22 (3.91
Scented Candle, 45. for members). F A CE
G YM Gold Collagen
Boosting Derma Roller,
30. CH A N E L Les
Beiges Healthy Glow
Touch Foundation,
43. I CO N I C
L O N D O N Illuminator
in Shine, 29.99.
B A R E MINERALS
Performance Wear
Liquid Foundation, 29.

Styling by

SOPHIE BERESINER
Photograph: Peter Guenzel

BOTTOM SHELF : C LAR INS Face Contour Palette, 36. YU LING ROL L E RS Jade Facial Double
Roller, 43. R O DIAL Rose Gold Deep Line Filler, 75. YSL BEAUTY Touche clat Glow Shot,
22.50. CHANEL metal, strass and resin earrings, 1,395 (sold as pair). S E NS AI Cellular
Performance Total Lip Treatment, 75. CHANEL Le Left Lotion, 48. C H AN E L Le Vernis in New
Dawn, 18. M AC ADAMIA Oil Infused Comb, 8. THE BODY SHOP Round Body Brush, 7.
CHANEL resin bangles, 520 each
o
expl re
Edited by
elle

ECO
HOTELS
SUSAN WARD
DAVIES BRAZIL
BALI
CROATIA
MYKONOS

Collages by

GUS
& STELLA

SUSTAINABLE STAYS, MOROCCO ROAD TRIP, INDIAN SUMMER


IM PACKING FOR MY HONEYMOON. food in this environmentally conscious social fishing community before financing the inn a
In goes another sweater, some waterproofs and enterprise. Id read that to revive the struggling stunning 29-suite hotel at the edge of the Atlantic.
old walking shoes. Youd think someone who fishing villages economy, boat-builders had Fogo Island Inn exists to be a servant of
was editor-in-chief of boutique hotel specialist Mr been redeployed as the hotels furniture makers, the nature and culture of this place, says
& Mrs Smith for more than 10 years might choose and patchwork bedspreads had been made by Cobb. How it was conceived and the way it
white-sand beaches and private cabanas for hookers. Wow, that is novel, I thought, before is operated is the lens through which we make
that special escape, but no, not me. Youre discovering thats the local nickname for quilters. every decision about the positive impact on the
going where? asked my Canadian father. Yes, What better adventure for a honeymoon? natural and cultural environment.
Dad, Newfoundland for three nights. A few years before, Id heard Zita Cobbs We believe that ecological sustainability
Id had my eye on the rugged, rocky TED Talk about Fogo Island Inn. A Fogo Islander follows from social sustainability business is
coast of Canadas easternmost island since herself and the sixth of seven children born to one of our best tools.
Todd Saunders dramatic, stilted rectangular an illiterate, cod-fishing family, Cobb left Fogo
architecture came to fruition as Fogo Island Island at 16 to study business, retiring in her late
Inn in 2013. Instead of dreaming about infinity forties as one of Canadas richest women thanks
pools and marble bathrooms, I was excited to a smart sale of fibre-optics stock. By setting up
about hand-loomed artisanal rugs and foraged the Shorefast Foundation, Cobb revived Fogos

Collages by
FOGO I S L A N D I N N
GUS
& STELLA

F O G O IS L A N D INN

GROOTBOS

U X U A CA S A
HO T E L & S P A

Sustainability
just got
sexy
r
EXPLORE
I can attest that the inn is also high on comfort,
charisma, style and good times. I experienced
first-hand how satisfying it feels to stay in a
place where profits go back into the immediate
economy from caribou sausages or pickled
quail eggs in the award-winning restaurant to
excursions with a local fisherman. The photos
of my new husband and me in high-vis orange
fishermens boiler suits, watching a pale-blue
iceberg on its way down from the Arctic, are
more Bear Grylls than clichd honeymoon snap,
but I wouldnt have had it any other way.
Another visionary who switched sectors
to put purpose before profit is Wilbert Das,
the brains behind Uxua Casa Hotel & Spa in
Brazil. The creative director of Diesel for more
TH E MOUNTAI NS B E HI ND
than two decades, the Dutch native wanted to ARI S TI MOUNTAI N RE S ORT
make up for his time in fast fashion by creating a
hotel in harmony with its Bahian village setting, life-enhancing places to stay that have one thing
where international designers worked with in common: consideration for their environment PAPAY A
PL AY A
local artisans using ancient methods and and their communities. PROJ E C T

reclaimed materials. How do you work out if a place is a difference-


We avoided invading the spectacular making do-gooder or a phoney? Its a good
beachfront or rainforest and instead repurposed sign if a hotel has strong messaging around how
a handful of empty, 16th-century fishermens responsible it is, but you still need to scrutinise
houses at the heart of old Trancoso, right beside what theyre saying. Amazing pool shots or
local families, Das explains. Love, care and seductive, well-dressed bedrooms pull us in, then
appreciation for beauty and its up to us to dig deeper about
tradition were key ingredients what theyre up to behind the
of this successful collaboration, WHO scenes. Do they keep the pool
which has brought prosperity to
Trancosos artisanal community, ARE THE clean naturally or is it toxed-
up with nasty chemicals? Was
allowing many to continue
traditional skills that might
GOOD that stylish furniture hand-made
by a neighbour, or was it bulk-
otherwise have been lost.
Uxua now has a dedicated
GUYS? bought from a Chinese factory?
When guests grill hotels, the
UXUA C AS A
H OTE L & S PA

fashion following so, you see, By choosing small hotels management takes sustainability
green can be glamorous. And with big hearts, we all more seriously.
it is this kind of project that is have the power to make This year, during the United
helping to change hoteliers the world a better place. Nations International Year of
attitudes to the environment, Bouteco (bouteco.co) has
which have come on leaps and a list of approved stylish
bounds from the days of simply hotels and focuses on
suggesting hotel guests use areas such as solar
their towels and sheets more energy, local sourcing and
than once. Now, its all about responsible construction,
reverse-osmosis-filtered water to reach sustainability and
(salts and impurities removed by social-responsibility
a semi-permeable membrane) objectives. GROOTBOS
( B E L O W)
and organic roof gardens. AND BAMBU
INDAH (LEFT)
Where eco-friendly escapes
once threatened compostable loos and
Photographs:Sunya Thadathanawong, Claus Brechenmacher and

scratchy eco-cotton sheets, now thanks to


Reiner Baumann, Brian Hodges Photography, Markus Gortz

a new breed of drop-dead-gorgeous hotels-with-


a-conscience it means more than just adding
a few solar panels. From five-star city slickers to
thatched jungle shacks, there is a new crop of

SO NG SAA UXUA CASA PAPAY A PL AY A


HOTEL & SPA PROJ E C T

ELLE
283 OCT
EXPLORE

Sustainable Travel, I launched Bouteco (bouteco.


co) with former editor of Green Hotelier Holly
Tuppen, to make it easier for seekers of stylish hotels
to find the most sustainable ones. On our site we
share stories of sustainability, offer independent
travel advice and generally support hip hotels that
are doing the right thing.
Its down to each of us to choose where we
stay wisely. Small steps can have a big impact
especially when more than a billion people globally
take holidays every year, and, of course, the
honeymoon market is booming.
So while my husband and I didnt spend our time
Instagramming ourselves clinking mai tais under a
palm tree, the awesome images of Fogos dramatic
architecture and bleakly beautiful untouched
landscape will live in my mind forever.
And the true feel-good factor came from staying
at a hotel that is working towards a happy-ever-after
that benefits the whole world.

B AMB U I N D AH

SONG SAA
V IL L A ,
CA M B O D IA

ARI S TI
MOUNTAI N
RE S ORT GROOTB O S

BE AN ECO
WARRIOR
1. MAKE A FUSS 2. SAVE WATER
If we all talk louder Shower instead of having 4. BE NATURAL
about the hotels that do a bath and limit laundry, 3. AVOID PLASTIC Chemicals in toiletries
support local suppliers and including bed linens and Oceans are teeming with are killing the coral reefs.
towels. Buy a refillable rubbish and microscopic Avoid oxybenzone, the
5. GO GUERILLA
consider environmental Initiatives such as
impact, it will prompt others water-filtering bottle such plastics from beauty UV-filtering chemical found
packforapurpose.org
to be more responsible. as LifeStraw (lifestraw.com) products, and many tropical in most sunscreens, in
recommend what to take to
Before booking, email to and make sure drinks in destinations are landfill favour of natural products
donate to certain places,
ask the hotel about water restaurants are local and disaster zones. Leave all such as those at
including paperbacks for
preservation. And request not imported. packaging out of your nealsyardremedies.com.
South Africas Ulusaba
menus that promise local, luggage, avoid plastic and jasonnaturalcare.co.uk.
Private Game Reserves
seasonal ingredients from bottles of water and never
adult-literacy programme.
small producers. use a plastic straw again.

ELLE
284 OCT
the jungle setting without
tampering with it.
bambuindah.com. Doubles
from 112, B&B

1 HOTELS, BROOKLYN
BRIDGE, CENTRAL PARK
AND SOUTH BEACH, USA
SONG SAA
These hi-tech urban
bunk-ups reconnect you

ECO BAMBU
INDAH
with nature through the
plant-rich interiors and
GROOTBOS,
SOUTH AFRICA

HOTEL outdoor pod, and green


living walls.
1hotels.com. Doubles from
B AMB U
I ND AH
This luxury eco nature
reserve near a wild beach

HEROES
FOGO ISLAND INN,
measures include solar
panels and biomass boilers.
scarlethotel.co.uk. Doubles from
273, room only

KASBAH DU TOUBKAL,
has a plant-a-tree
programme, bans
single-use plastic bottles,
NEWFOUNDLAND 240, B&B ATLAS MOUNTAINS, supports local suppliers
This remote 29-suite MOROCCO and runs a community farm.
inn was created by a ARISTI MOUNTAIN All staff come from the area grootbos.com. Doubles from
registered charity and RESORT, GREECE and the hotel supports 500, full board plus excursions
operates as a social
This 24-room retreat is education and medical
business, with a cinema
built in complete harmony care for local communities. UXUA C AS A KATAMAMA,
and art gallery. HOTE L & S PA
with its Pindus Mountains kasbahdutoubkal.com. Doubles SEMINYAK, BALI
fogoislandinn.ca. Doubles
backdrop. It uses LED from 156, B&B In this 59-suite boutique
from 1,041, full board
lights, a high-tech hotel, almost everything is
waste-water cleaning SONG SAA, KOH locally sourced, including
UXUA CASA HOTEL & system and was built with RONG, CAMBODIA the hand-dyed textiles and
SPA, BAHIA, BRAZIL local materials. A trailblazing luxury hotel hand-pressed bricks. They
With a beach club in aristi.eu. Doubles from 105, B&B in a remote paradise, the use no plastic and lighting
reach, the casas off Song Saa Foundation dims when no one is in the
Trancosos grassy, car-free THE ZETTER helps conserve Cambodias TOM S E C O
room. katamama.com. Doubles
square are set in original TOWNHOUSE, ocean habitats. In 2016, L OD GE from around 300, room only
Photographs: Brian Hodges Photography, Markus Gortz, Courtesy of Grootbos Private Nature Reserve

fishermans houses most LONDON they distributed iron


dating back 500 years. This boutique hotel and supplements to island TOMS ECO LODGE,
uxua.com. Suites from 440, B&B co-working space is one families and worked with ISLE OF WIGHT
of the greenest options authorities to protect B AMB U I N D AH
Youll find eco pods, tents,
PAPAYA PLAYA PROJECT, in the capital, thanks to its native sea turtles. cabins and self-catering
TULUM, MEXICO energy-saving technology songsaa.com. Doubles from cottages on this rustic farm.
These palapa huts and and eco-friendly materials. 694, B&B Solar panels and
treehouses are set in thezettertownhouse.com. sewage-treatment facilities
pristine jungle fringed Doubles from 232, room only make them as self-sufficient
by white sand and the as possible, and guests are
Caribbean Seas barrier BAMBU INDAH, encouraged to pick from
reef. Its goal is to be totally UBUD, BALI the fruit trees and use the
sustainable and of true This riverside eco resorts herbs outside their tents
benefit to the community. fantasy bamboo suites in their cooking.
papayaplayaproject.com. and organic grown-in-the- tomsecolodge.com. Doubles
Doubles from 133, B&B garden meals tune you into from 90, room only

THE SCARLET,
CORNWALL
Luxurious but laid-back,
this adults-only hotel in
Mawgan Porth is as
eco-friendly as it is chic.
FOGO
Every room comes with its PAPAYA PLAYA UXUA C AS A I S L AND
own sea-view balcony or PROJECT H OTE L & S PA INN
MEET
ME IN...
GREECE:

MYKONOS
BLU,
Croatia, Barcelona, PSAROU
Mykonos, Albi. Chasing There are plenty of bouji
hotels on Mykonos that
the last of the summer are so generically
sun? We know just glamorous they could be

where to nd it anywhere. This isnt one


of them. The Mykonos
Blu serves up the perfect
combination of local
and luxury, and has
a laid-back, wafting-
around-in-a-white-cotton-
kaftan boho vibe,
broad bean hummus
which feels authentic
with pitta bread. Its right
on the island. A pathway
next to Nammos, one
down the rock face leads
of Mykonoss hottest
to Psarou beach, where
beach-party spots, so
the relaxed and friendly
you can walk or swim
hotel staff will bring you
to the action and escape
cold beers and delicious
back to the sanctuary of
Blu when the Euro-pop
gets too much. The rooms
are all Grecian white
and blue simple, and
deliciously cool. Splash
out on a private villa
with your own small
pool and hot tub that
overlooks the bay so
you can watch the
CROATIA: super-yachts park up.
metres from the hotel.
BROWN The public beach in front
B ROW N B E AC H
H OUS E , C ROATI A
We loved returning to
Mykonos Blu after a hot
BEACH may be pebbly, but hotel
guests can use the
night exploring the old

HOUSE, private beach club. Eat MY KONOS


town for an ill-advised
ouzo nightcap while
TROGIR well at Cartina (lots of
fish, seafood and truffle
BLU
swinging in a hammock
under the stars.
Brown Beach House is fettucine), burn it off on mykonosblu.com. Doubles from
where Instagram magic the free bicycles, then 178, B&B. Easyjet has return
happens. From plush treat yourself to a deep flights to Mykonos from London
blue velvet sofas, a tissue massage and from around 90
chequerboard-patterned a wallow in the spas
swimming pool and a thermo-mineral pool.
library to rival Maison brownhotels.com/croatia.
Assouline, Amsterdam- Doubles from 147, B&B.
based designer Saar Easyjet has return flights to Split
Zafrir knows how to from London from around 60.
make everything look Information: croatia.hr
good without a filter.
This very cool boutique
hotel is on the tiny,
medieval island of Trogir,
which is connected to
the mainland and Ciovo
island by bridge. Many
of the 25 rooms have
beautiful views of the
Adriatic, just a few

ELLE
286 OCT
EXPLORE

SPAIN:

W HOTEL,
BARCELONA
With its sail-like structure,
the W is a beacon for
five-star fun along the the W has all bases
Barcelona beachfront, covered, with Bravo 24s
and when you enter Michelin-starred chef,
W HOTE L
the opulent lobby you Carles Abelln, creating
know youre in for traditional Catalan
a good time. The whole cuisine (smoked-cod
FRANCE:
place is gleaming from esqueixada with olives
LA a multi-million-euro and peppers, chocolate
RESERVE, refurb, which saw the
addition of the high-spec
fritters), Salt dishing
out some of Barcelonas
ALBI Sound Suite (Ws first
recording studio;
best burgers, and Eclipse
If there is anything serving sushi and
135 per hour) and cocktails 26 floors up.
more relaxing than an
transformed the 473 The Wet Deck pool bar
afternoon dozing on
rooms and suites (most is the place to hang
a sunny river bank,
with floor-to-ceiling out, with top DJs and
listening to the gentle
windows revealing acrobatic performers by
dip and splash of oars
spectacular sea views) night and Wow cabanas
of passing rowing boats,
into contemporary, to hire by day, making
we have yet to find it.
luxury living spaces. for the perfect autumn
This peaceful country
LA RESERVE When it comes to food, party weekend.
hotel has beautiful
w-barcelona.com. Doubles
lawns leading down
from around 207, room only.
to the river Tarn, just
partially wooded British Airways has return
a five-minute drive flights from London to
gardens and 20 light,
from the medieval, Barcelona from around 100
spacious bedrooms,
Unesco-rated town
many overlooking the
of Albi in southwest
river. And being a Relais
France. Competing
& Chteaux hotel, you
with the river for your
ELLE

can expect first-class


attention is a large
Words: Susan Ward Davies, Billie Bhatia, Lotte Jeffs.

seasonal food (think


outdoor pool, a small
roasted scallops with
287
Photographs: adrianakupresak.com, Heinz Troll

spa, five acres of


a rosemary and
parmesan crust and
goats cheese with
morels) and service
to match.
OCT

relaischateaux.com/lareserve.
Doubles from 210, room only.
Easyjet has return flights from
London to Toulouse-Blagnac
from around 50. Holiday
Autos, holidayautos.co.uk,
offers car hire from Toulouse
W HOTEL
airport from 23 a day
a d v e r t i s m e n t fe at u re

remix Ways to wear the latest collection from Swarovski

your Legendary crystal house Swarovski has

style
made its name crafting innovative, genre-
defying jewellery and the new Swarovski
Remix Collection is no exception. Tapping
into the current trend for customisation, its
four themes offer endless possibilities. Each
strand is finished with a seamless magnetic
clasp that allows you to connect different
strands and styles: bracelets become
necklaces, become body chains and so
on. The only limit is your imagination.

OFF THE
CUFF
Sometimes less
really is more its
how you style that
piece that counts.
Why not try: Don
a delicate single
strand over your
shirt cuff to add
HEAD START a subtle twist to
Sorry festival
a/w 2017 style.
seasons over?
Bring some of its
spirit into the party
ALL TIED UP
season ahead with
Need to navigate
a little sophisticated
the transition from
shine and sparkle. MAXIMUM office to bar?
Why not try:
IMPACT Accessories are
Weaving several
Layering was all the way to do it.
strands together
over the catwalks Why not try:
through your hair
for a/w 2017, and Wear a straight
creates a romantic,
its not just limited length of strands
modern-boho
to your clothes. looped like a bolo
party look.
Why not try: tie for true day-to-
Combine multiple night style.
strands in varying
lengths to add
movement and
sparkle.
1. EXPLORE

Collage by

GUS
& STELLA

2.

3.
4.
SUITCASE:
INDIAN
SUMMER
Last-minute
getaway? Hot
8. shades make for
6. a sizzling sojourn
7.

13 .

5.
12 .

11.
10 .

9.

14 .
Photographs: 3Objectives. Edited by Susan Ward Davies

Styled by

SOPHIE VAN 15.

DER WELLE

1. Altercroc suitcase, 1,395, STELLA M C CARTNEY . 2. Metal sunglasses, 134, RAY -B AN . 3. KI E L H S Turmeric & Cranberry Seed
Energizing Radiance Masque, 29. 4. NUXE Eau Dlicieuse Parfumante, 22. 5. Leather sandals, 69.99, MAN GO . 6. Faux leather
bag, 22, NEXT . 7. M AC Red Brick Eyeshadow, 13.50. 8. CHANEL Ombre Premire Cream Eyeshadow in Pourpre Profond, 25.
9. Polyamide-mix swimsuit, 26, TOPSHOP . 10. Gold-plated brass earring (sold as pair), 275, MARQUE S AL ME I D A . 11. MAC
Primary Yellow Chromaline, 16.50. 12. and 14. MALIN + GOETZ Dark Rum Scented Votive Candle, 16, and Rum Bar Soap,
14. 13. L O C CIT ANE Shea Butter Fabulous Oil, 26. 15. VILHELM PARFUME RI E Dont Tell Jasmine Eau de Parfum, 155 for 100ml.

ELLE
289 OCT
ELLE
290
OCT
-CARD
POST

Photograph: Christian Kettiger. Fashion editor: Kim Hunt. Model: Marielle. ELLE UK, April 1993. Words: Lotte Jeffs
RI AD
S APPHI RE
DRIVE
MOROCCO
:
Taroudant to Marrakech
via the Tizi n Test pass for
thril ing mountain roads,
kasbahs and goats in trees
THE ATL AS AUDI TTS
MOUNTAI NS CO U P

KAS B AH
TAMAD OT

DRIVE:

THE
ROUTE SEE:

BLASTED OUT THE PIT


OF THE ATLAS RIDE:
STOPS STAY:

MOUNTAINS , the
THE IMLIL: a small Berber THE
Tizi n Test pass is
the high point (in both CAR village, gateway FUEL: THE KIT: FINISH
senses) of the scenic
AUDI TTS COUP
for treks up Mount
Toukbal. Kasbah du THE RIAD SAPPHIRE
MARRAKECH:
,
225km route between
Taroudant and
This sporty little
number might not
Toukbal (kasbahdu
toukbal.com) is
FOOD Leather shoes,
doubles from
77, B&B. Nine
Marrakech. It can STOCK UP WITH 525, J I MMY C H OO
be what you first perfect for a scenic beautiful, light suites
be hair-raising in MAAKOODA ,
imagined for a vegetable tagine on (riadsapphire.com).
parts, but that all deep-fried potato
mountain road trip, the terrace, or to stay FELLAH HOTEL,
adds to the adventure. cakes, eaten either on
but with unpredictable overnight if youre Suede bag, TASSOULTANTE:
Youll look down on their own or squished
traffic (miles of none tackling the mountain. 160, doubles from 63,
eagles swooping with egg into flat
at all, then a rickety OUIRGANE: pretty VAGAB OND
B&B. Arty, eco hotel
over plains, pass bread, with a dollop
truck rattling round the Berber village in the 13km from the city
crumbling kasbahs of harissa for a bit
bend, not to mention foothills of the Atlas, (fellah-hotel.com).
and mud-brick Berber of zing. Make
goats, mopeds and with a lovely reservoir KASBAH TAMADOT:
villages with women sandwiches with
the odd camel), you just outside. doubles from 446,
swathed in colourful zaalouk, a spread
need something that TIN MAL: this B&B. Richard
textiles. Watch as the made with aubergine, Metal and acetate
Words: Susan Ward Davies. Photographs: Alamy, Elle Archives, Getty, Reginald Gray

can speed up fast beautiful, and Bransons luxe


landscape changes tomatoes, garlic, olive sunglasses, 75,
(062mph in 5.4 usually tourist-free, AD AM S E L MAN retreat (virginlimited
from cedar trees to oil and spices, or
seconds) and stop 12th-century mosque X L E S PE C S edition.com).
cacti, and feel the with fried sardines on
on a dime. The Audi is one of only two FLIGHTS: British
awesome mass of the baghira bread (a bit
TTS is easy to handle, in Morocco that Airways has London/
looming mountainside. like crumpets). And
with great road grip non-Muslims can enter. Marrakech returns
And make sure to set when energy wanes,
essential on a GOATS IN TREES from 1 0 (ba com)
off early: its nerve- the ubiquitous sweet
steep mountain pass. Yes! They climb the
shredding after dark. mint tea will revive.
You dont want Argan trees (below)
anything too big on the Souss plains
the road is seriously outside Taroudant.
narrow in places. Total Instagram gold.

291
Y V E S S A IN T LAUR ENT
IN MA R R A KEC H, 1985
ELLE OCT
THREE SHADES TO
CHOOSE FROM:
NUDE SCANDAL,
PINK THRILLS
AND REVVED-UP RED

t a k e n a ll it s in n ovation
Benet has ig h t h in k in g t o m ake
and sky-h e w it hout
c a n n o t liv
a lipstick I now SOPHIE BER
ESINER, BEAUTY DIR
ECTOR
O CTO B E R ELLE
O N LY IN

E E
FRSTICK THEYRE REAL! D
OUBLE THE LIP

Its EVERYleTlip
LIP
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HING the multitaskerve r w a n t ed
LIPSTICK + LINER IN ONE
HOW TO:
MAKE THE M
OST
EYRE

in a sing LE csatnictk get enough of
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WATCH TH
r e a d e r ev en t

get
the
look
Ou r festival of all things fashion and
beauty heads East join us at
b
W ESTTFIELD STRATFORD CITY for another
weekend of everything ON TREND
wee
If you missed our first fashion and beauty
weekender at Westfield London (or loved it so
much you want to do it all again), then clear
your ddiary: On Trend powered by Dyson
Superrsonic is coming to Westfield Straford
City frrom 2225 September.
Jo in us there to discover all the latest fashion
and bbeauty looks in a fun and thoroughly hands-on
way. How better, after all, to embrace the ON TREND
powered by Dyson Supersonic
new s eason than by taking your place on the
front r ow of one of the many catwalk shows Head to Westfield Stratford
featuring
featur Westfields leading brands, including City over 2225 September
TopShop, Monsoon, Next, Primark, Hobbs and and youll be in for a fashion
Missguided? Or by getting expert fashion and and beauty treat. Drop in to
all-day catwalk shows (and
beauty advice from one of the many pop-ups and
browse the collections direct from
installations located in-store and across the mall?
your phone via the On Trend
Say hello to AW17 in style only at On Trend. Collections Lookbook). Enjoy

Models do not endorse featured products or event. Photographs: Xposure, Imaxtree


complimentary makeovers and
FIND OUT MORE fashion advice at our exclusive
On Trend is at Westfield Stratford City, 2225 ELLE Fashion Cupboard pop-up,
September 2017. To plan your visit and find out mini-manis at the Cosmopolitan
more, see uk.westfield.com; #ONTREND2017 beauty bar and skincare sessions
at the Esquire grooming bar.
Plus, in-store beauty masterclasses,
personal styling and more all
weekend long. See you there!

Enjoy complimentary
hair styling at the
Dyson Supersonic
blow-dry bar
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LATEST FASHION
TRENDS
MAISON COMMON
Maison Common is small but one of the finest
fashion houses in Germany.
Rieke Common started her career with Oscar
de la Renta and was responsible for Rena
Lange for many years. The brand creates
contemporary fashion with the utmost dedication
to luxurious materials, detailing and couture-like
manufacturing made in Germany. The collection
is always colourful, feminine, made with love
and ironic twists. Nearly all raw materials
such as fabrics, trimmings, prints or buttons are
exclusively developed for Maison Common.
The perfect fit is the core business of Maison
Common with a size range from 34-50.
Maison Common is distributed at leading
international retailers and department stores.
Please see www.maisoncommon.com

PCP: BRINGING
SEXY BACK
Stuck in the 80s? Us too!
We seem to always find ourselves drenched
in colour, exploding with glitter, and the need
to be on a beach all day. Thus, PCP Clothing
was born!
In response to the economic crisis in Greece,
our team was mobilised, uniting fashion lovers
worldwide, bringing economic opportunity,
sustainability and sexiness back to our country.
Let us share it with you!
Join the #glitteranarchy @pcpclothing
Shop online at pcpclothing.com
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LATEST FASHION
TRENDS
MELROSE ENGLAND
Melrose England
has created the
perfect collection
of beautiful dresses
to see you through
the seasons,
using luxurious
lace fabrics, and
never any animal
derived materials.
Everything is
ethically made
in England for a
NAYTURES EMPIRE
more sustainable Naytures Empire, a lifestyle brand based out of California,
approach to creates handmade leather beltbags. They allow women the
contemporary freedom to go hands free in style while carrying essential items.
fashion. Each belt is designed to flatter a womans body, while not
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Check out the upcoming fashion label at
will change the way you live, travel, and feel.
www.melrose-england.com and follow on Instagram:
@melrose_england and Facebook: Melrose England. Instagram @NayturesEmpire www.NayturesEmpire.com

MARIESA MAE LINGERIE


Enter our world
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and discover our
signature styles of
beautiful lingerie
and accessories
designed to bring
out the sensual,
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THAT SCRUNCHIE GIRL within you.
Where making a statement has never looked so impeccable! Mariesa Mae
Scrunchies are making a comeback like you have never seen invites you to get
before; whether it's styled from the arm to the wrist and to the SEXY ON THE
ankle, made from luxurious fabrics and a selection from basics INSIDE in our
to luxury, That Scrunchie Girl has your go to accessory for any stunning debut
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www.thatscrunchiegirl.com.au Visit www.mariesamae.com and follow us on instagram
Instagram @thatscrunchiegirl_ @mariesamae
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LATEST FASHION
TRENDS

K&N VENTURES
ANEW K&N Ventures is known for its colourful digital design. The
ANEW represents a sense of refined simplicity, offering owner and designer Kathy Shimmield has collections in
womenswear that fuses timeless influences with modern apparel, home decor and various accessory items.
styling. The brand is becoming known for understated yet
Many of the products are customisable by the artist.
elegant collections, featuring relaxed styles, eveningwear
and staple pieces. Made for the modern woman, ANEWs Kathy mainly specialises in vibrant, intense abstracts but will
clothing is underpinned by its ethos immaculate expression also create watercolour/floral designs.
and the feeling of confidence you have when wearing it.
All of her companys collections can be viewed via her
Shop at www.ANEWfashion.co.uk website www.knventures.com
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BIJOUX
EDIT

JULIA OTILIA
The new collection by Julia
Otilia is delicate and elegant.
Fine Scandinavian design
inspired by Swedish nature.
Each piece of jewellery
is made by loving hands
in a small atelier in Bali, in
recycled silver, plated with
24K gold. The collection
also contains organic
elements such as wild harvest
Himalayan seeds, certified
tropical wood and fair sweet
water pearls.
juliaotilia.com

hesmarieH
New designer Hes-Marie Human is known for her unique
elegant pieces. Her lovely designs are all handmade and JOOLREE BY D
her passion for the craft is evident in each piece she makes.
At Joolree By D, our designs give you options that range from
Featured here are her Aquamarine Halo Pendant Necklace
subtle to bold with an emphasis on unique.
and matching earrings. If you wish for unique, timeless pieces
Featured: The Three Dot Pendant in sterling silver.
with a delicate touch you will fall in love with her designs.
Find an option that works for you!
To view the whole collection visit www.hesmarieH.com and
use ELLE15 to get 15% off your next order until 30/10/17. ELLE READER EXCLUSIVE: 20% off your total order,
Follow her at @hesmarieH (Instagram). valid until 31/10/2017
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

LOOK GOOD
FEEL GOOD

NIOR LONDON
A revolutionary range of results-driven skincare products; meticulously designed to suit your skin concerns. Carefully blended with optimal levels
of clinically proven active ingredients, and delicately wrapped in gold encrusted packing, Niors timeless range create a perfect marriage
between science and luxury. Each unique formula working beautifully both alone and in combination, to improve your skins complexion.
To discover the full collection, visit www.nior.london

HIGH SPIRITS
We believe that natural is always better. Our ingredients
are naturally derived, thats why all of our skin care products
are completely parabens, dyes, and toxic free. Each bottle
PEVONIA
is packed with key vitamins, real fruits, Cucumber, Green Its time to upgrade your concealer with Pevonias NEW
Tea extracts, Chamomile and Aloe. Try any selection of our EyeRenew Conceal & De-Age Treatment. Its oil-free mineral
luxurious serums, moisturisers, and toners to see for yourself how tint helps conceal dark circles and redness, whilst also helping
rejuvenated and nourished your skin will look and feel. to improve the appearance of fine lines.
To order visit: www.highspirits-essentials.com Visit www.pevonia.co.uk and follow
Follow us on Twitter @hsessentials @pevoniauk on Instagram.
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LOOK GOOD
FEEL GOOD

THE ORIGINAL MANE N


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longer, healthier-looking hair. The best kept secret for beauty
30ml 29.95, 50ml 44.95, 100ml 79.95, 200ml 149, aficionados everywhere. Discover the secret for yourself!
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From the stables to the shower, the Original Mane n Tail
Apply code ELLE10 at checkout for exclusive reader leave-in or rinse out conditioner helps to prevent breakage
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damaged hair. Essential moisturising formula keeps hair soft
To speak to a Regentiv advisor or order
and manageable. Made in the USA.
01923 212555.
For exclusive offers email enquiries@regentiv.co.uk Now available in Sainsburys
ELLE COLLECTIONS

REVOSSA FASHION BOCACHICA SWIMWEAR NELLIE & DOVE


Revossa Fashion is an online boutique started MEDITERRANEAN STYLE, CARIBBEAN SOUL Style with a Difference.
by Vancouver stylist, Siman Heer. Carrying the A fusion between traditonal tailoring and perfect Boutique now open. Premium brands and emerging
trendiest high quality garments any online store has fit. Fully-reversible concept, seamless with talent be the first to view our discoveries online
to offer. flattering silhouettes and flirtatious cuts which and in our fabulous new Oxfordshire boutique.
Photographer: @alexbarredo_photographer you will de able to wear to swim, to do water Clothing | Accessories | Jewellery | Shoes | Gifts.
Model: @tayyleah sports or just to chill under the sun. Made in Spain. nellieanddove.com | 01869 336972
Stylist: @styledbysiman www.bocachicaswimwear.com
Shop Satin Maxi Pants @revossafashion Instagram @bocachicaswimwear
www.revossafashion.com

GLAMBUNNY TRU-DIAMONDS NUSHKI


GlamBunny is an online retailer for ethical fashion + Tru-Diamonds are offering our readers the amazing Melbourne based up and coming brand Nushki
cruelty-free cosmetics. Cruelty free in all senses opportunity to own any of their stunning rings at have launched their third line of exquisite bags.
is our motto. We urge consumers to be aware of HALF PRICE as little as 59 for the month of The company pride themselves on flawless detail,
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GlamBunny is Leaping Bunny Certified! by going to www.trudiamonds.co.uk, or call crafting each bag individually, creating unique and
www.glambunnycosmetics.com 0333 043 5000 and quote Offer Code ELLE1710. timeless pieces.
Instagram: @glambunnycosmetics All rings come with a 90-day money back trial and Visit www.nushki.co
a lifetime guarantee. Instagram @Nushki | Info@nushki.co

HELEN REYNOLDS HANDBAG CLINIC VERZIE SWIM


Specialising in helping women who have lost Are industry leaders in handbag refurbishment & Strives to bring its clients unique and exquisitely
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wasting money on things that you dont love and handbags instore & online. Every bag we sell has demand attention and their styles will have you
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out more about my services and feeling bad in your to ensure authenticity & to guarantee that all our accessories online at
clothes could be a thing of the past. pieces are of the highest quality. www.verzie.com.au and follow @verzieswim
www.helenreynoldsstyle.com www.handbagclinic.co.uk / @handbagclinic (Model: Marie Efstratiou @mariexef)

TO ADVERTISE HERE PLEASE CALL THE ELLE TEAM ON 020 3728 6260
ELLE JEWELLERY & FASHION

TO ADVERTISE HERE PLEASE CALL THE ELLE TEAM ON 020 3728 6260
ELLE FASHION & BEAUTY

H E W I L o n d o n - ( Hardly Ever Wor n It)


BUY, SELL & SAVE UP TO 90% ON PRE-OWNED DESIGNER FASHION
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TO ADVERTISE HERE PLEASE CALL THE ELLE TEAM ON 020 3728 6260
ELLE BEAUTY

TO ADVERTISE HERE PLEASE CALL THE ELLE TEAM ON 020 3728 6260
ENTERTAINMENT

TO ADVERTISE HERE PLEASE CALL THE ELLE TEAM ON 020 3728 6260 ELLE CLASSIFIEDS
P.S. OCTOBER
2O17

Words: Billie Bhatia

ELLE
306 OCT

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