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OCTOBER 6
In Blade Runner 2049, the future
is a cross between 80s New York
and an abandoned colony on Mars,
where Ryan Gosling and Harrison
Ford roam around with alarmed
expressionsand Jared Leto gets
more practice being creepy.
Blade Runner 2049
OCTOBER 2
Benjamin Clementine, Marling OCTOBER 1415 of visual artist and
who plays soulful, Curated by polymath feminist icon Carolee
arty rock with such David Lynch, the Festival Schneemann, who got
passion hes been com- of Disruptionin its her start playing a cen-
pared to Edith Piaf second year at L.A.s Ace tral role in the 1960s
and Nina Simone, Hotelincludes music avant-garde movement.
releases his second (Bon Iver, TV on the Ra-
album, I Tell a Fly. dio, Laura Marling), DJs,
talks, films, exhibits, and
OCTOBER 3 even group meditations.
Nasty Women, an essay
collection by female OCTOBER 20
writersRebecca Solnit, Michael Fassbender and
OCTOBER 1 Samantha Irby, Cheryl Rebecca Ferguson star in
Foxs paranormal sitcom Strayedis something OCTOBER 6 The Snowman, a thriller

Clockwise from top right: Stephen Vaughan; Carolee Schneemann; courtesy of

Ghosted, starring Craig of an instruction manual A plane crash leaves Kate
Robinson and Adam on how to survive, unite, Winslet (playing a photo-
Scott, puts a comedic and resist in Trumps journalist) stranded in
spin on The X-Files. America. the wilderness with Idris
Elba (a doctor) in The
Clementine Mountain Between Us
at once a survival movie
and a valiant effort to
disabuse the legions
of Elba-ites who might
otherwise describe that
scenario as a fantasy.
Winslet and Elba
in The Mountain
Between Us
not about a possessed
precipitation sculpture
but about an insane yet
brilliant serial killer (the
worst kind!) who strikes
when it snows.
OCTOBER 22
New Yorks MoMA PS1
presents the first com-
prehensive retrospective
Stranger Things
Netflix; Kimberley French; David Wolff-Patrick; Alexey Pushkin/shutterstock.com
A self-portrait by Schneemann
OCTOBER 27
Just in time for Hal-
loween costume inspo,
Netflixs bingeable,
retro, very scary
Stranger Things returns
for season two.

28
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 OCT
THE MONTH
IN FASHION

OCTOBER 16 2
Marrakech (3) was as
much an inspiration for
Yves Saint Laurent as
was his beloved Paris, so
it seems fitting that two
museums bearing his
name open this month
one in each city.

OCTOBER 27
Bally and Swizz Beatz
have such a mutual-
admiration thing going
that the firm enlisted
him to collaborate on a
A-POC Le Feu, capsule collection, in-
from the Issey cluding these cool kicks
Miyake spring
1999 collection (1) featuring an exclusive
print by Spanish artist Spring 2007
Dries Van
OCTOBER 1 Ricardo Cavolo. Noten dress
OCTOBER 10
Items: Is Fashion Modern?, MoMAs With its colorful, playful OCTOBER 31 miss 51100, the second

Clockwise from bottom left: Courtesy of the designer;

first fashion exhibit since 1944,

Yasuaki Yoshinaga; courtesy of the designer; Patrice

designs, Kate Spade has
presents 111 of historys most influential long celebrated spirited
women. Taking that
fashion pieces and objects, from mantra a step further,
Thierry Muglers futuristic LBD to the brand is releasing
Issey Miyakes squad-friendly knits. a must-have tome, She:
Muses, Visionaries and
Dries Van Noten fans edition (2) in a two-part
are some of the most retrospective volume
ravenous around. Should that offers behind-the-
you count yourself scenes insights for 100
among them, dont collections.
3

Stable; courtesy of YSL (2)

OCTOBER 8 Madcap Heroines (4),
5
Tanti auguri! Angela which pays homage to
Missoni marks two trailblazers as varied
decades at the helm of as Gloria Steinem and
her familys knitwear Dolly Parton.
company. To fete the
4
occasion, Missoni is
rolling out whimsically
embroidered, limited-
edition jerseys (5) and
tanks emblazoned with
the big 2-0.

36
 October 2017

ON THE
COVER
90
THE THAT
CHANGED MY LIFE
The 17 fashion arbiters who
voted on our Personal Style
Awardscelebs, designers,
and moreget personal
about fashion memories and
sartorial aha moments

256
THE TOTALITY
Is there a star more mega
than Rihanna? As she
launches her new beauty
brand, the singer fields
questions from 24 fellow
luminaries. Photographed
by Slve Sundsb.
Styled by Samira Nasr

264
THE ELLE PERSONAL STYLE
AWARDS 2017!
The votes are in: Introducing
the 12 winners of our Personal
Style AwardsParis Jackson!
Tracee Ellis Ross! Aurora
James! And more!

Wool jacket, $1,905, trousers,

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all, saint laurent by anthony
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VOLUME XXXIII NUMBER 2 NO. 386 41


p.201
FASHION
p.167 84
MATERIAL WITNESS:
CINDY CRAWFORD
The ur-supermodel on her
favorite lip scrub, denim
moment, and white tees.
By Brianna Kovan
88
JET-SETTER: GIA COPPOLA
The fashion-beloved indie
director sets her sights on
Taipei. By Brianna Kovan
102
STYLE ACROSS AMERICA:
HOUSTON
Seven fashion-forward
Texans share the Bayou
Citys hottest boutiques, gent trends: protest tees
salons, and eateries
42
110
MODESTY ABLAZE
A buttoned-up, Victorian
formality returns to the
runways. Is fashion catch-
ing up to the needs of
modest dressers world-
wide? By Leigh Stein
115
ELLE FASHION
Cold-weather dressing
done right; Italian outer-
wear brand Fabiana
Filippi hits Miami; Sorel
and Chlo chic-ify the
snow boot
143
ELLE ACCESSORIES
Luxe fur detailing,
statement booties, and
bags for every occasion
158
BRITAINS GOT TALENT! Henry Leutwyler. Styled
Designer Jonathan
Anderson on his pillars of
life and style (first stop:
Uniqlo). By Alison S. Cohn
160
THE BEAT GOES ON
Husband-and-wife duo
David and Sybil Yurman
draw back the curtain on
their countercultural early
years. By Naomi Rougeau
162
ATTENTION, PLEASE
Vronique Hyland reports American Made breakout
on the runways two diver- Sarah WrightEmma
Stone and Steve Carell face
versus puffed sleeves
p.158
167
ELLE SHOPS
Its our annual coat round-
up! Fifty-five amazing
options, from neon puffers
to floor-skimming dusters
and mini denim jackets
276
SHELL TAKE MANHATTAN
Charlotte Gainsbourg p.36
is backin New York,
and in the public eye. the SexesNicole Krausss
best (and most personal)
Ben Dickinson reports.
Photographed by Mark book yetand more!
Seliger. Styled by
Samira Nasr
237
LOFTY AMBITION
Inside Hungarian designer
282 Sandra Sandors mid-
COUNTER CULTURE
century Budapest home.
Valentino creative director
Pierpaolo Piccioli injects By Brianna Kovan
70s verve into ultraluxe
ladywear. By Alison S.
240
OUR SAINT OF RATIONAL
Cohn. Photographed by SELF-INTEREST
Michael Bloomberg is
by Samira Nasr many things: business-
man, politician, billionaire
284 philanthropist. Lisa Chase
INTO THE WOODS
reports on the man who
Get off the grid in
just might save us all
patchwork cashmere and
Clockwise from top left: courtesy of Jonathan Simkhai; Getty Images; Slve Sundsb (3); Jamie Hawkesworth; Imaxtree.com (2)
enveloping wool coats. 242
Photographed by IS INFIDELITY NECESSARY?
Laurie Bartley. Styled In a new book, renowned
by Vanessa Chow couples therapist Esther
Perel aims to upend our
FEATURES ideas about adultery
p.000 and victimhood. Laurie
189 Abraham weighs in
ELLE INTELLIGENCE
252
ASK E. JEAN
Relationship hell? E. Jean
off on the court in Battle of Carroll to the rescue!
Left: Rihanna wears a bodysuit with tulle wrap from Y/Project, silver hoop
earrings from Jennifer Fisher, blackened white gold and black and white
diamond ear cuffs from Eva Fehren, and her own small hoop earring, worn
throughout. Center: Rihanna wears a sequin dress with bra from Nina Ricci,
blackened white gold and black and white diamond ear cuffs and rings from
Eva Fehren, a black gold and diamond earring from Repossi, and a silver
pinkie ring from Eddie Borgo. To get Rihannas makeup look, try Pro Filtr Soft
Matte Longwear Foundation and Match Stix Shimmer Skinstick in Unicorn.
All, Fenty Beauty by Rihanna. Right: Rihanna wears a faux-fur coat with PVC
cover from Calvin Klein 205W39NYC and diamond and white gold earrings
from Chopard. To get Rihannas makeup look, try Pro Filtr Soft Matte
Longwear Foundation, Gloss Bomb Universal Lip Luminizer in Fenty Glow,
and Killawatt Freestyle Highlighter Duo in Ginger Binge-Moscow Mule. All,
Fenty Beauty by Rihanna. Photographed by Slve Sundsb (styled by David
Vandewal; hair by Yusef at Factory Downtown; makeup by James Kaliardos;
manicure by Kimmie Kyees at celestineagency.com; produced by Tommy
Romersa at Joy Asbury Productions; fashion assistant: Daniel Gaines).
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302
LAYERED JAKE
Jake Gyllenhaal talks
with Mickey Rapkin
about offscreen heroes,
evolving masculinity, and
binge-watching The Crown
BEAUTY,
HEALTH,
FITNESS
201
INTO THE WILD
How to make Fashion
Week beauty your every-
day MO? Megan ONeill 224
reports from the runways
210
EDITOR OBSESSIONS
Whats inspiring our beau- 230
ty team? Glitzy luminizers,
plantain bath oil, fireside
fragrances, and more
212
NEW FRONTIERS
Megan Deem investigates
the latest tools, technol-
ogies, and products for
aging gracefully
50
HOT CONTENTS
167
SHOPS
BLANK CANVAS
2646 Main Street, Dallas,
TX 75226; 214-514-6700;
blankcanvas.fr
WHATS THERE: The 2,500-
square-foot boutique, which
opened in Dallass edgy
Deep Ellum district in April,
showcases international avant-
gardists (Comme des Garons,
Miu Miu) alongside black-and-
white photos of jazz icons like
Miles Davis and John Coltrane.
HOT ITEMS: Graphic tees
from the cult label Dreamland
Syndicate, berluxe mink
slides from British designer
Zizi Donohoe, and denim
p.201
button-ups from menswear
line Art Comes First.
218
COOL RUNWAYS
143
Clockwise from bottom left: Devon Jarvis/Studio D (2); Imaxtree.com; courtesy of Blank Canvas; courtesy of the designer; courtesy of Target
Makeup artist Erin ACCESSORIES
Parsons talks with Cotton
Codinha about color ex-
Italian outerwear brand Hernos colorful
periments, Pat McGrath, 12-piece collab with the French illustrator
and how the Air Force re- Pierre-Louis Masciafamed for his
sponds to blue eye shadow patchwork patternsis available this month,
222
exclusively at the brands SoHo store.
DEAR READER, I LIED Nylon goose down jacket, herno, $1,660, at Herno, NYC
Nine years after
swearing off antidepres-
sants in ELLE, author
times, a few misty water-
Cathi Hanauer comes, 189 colored memories can
ahem, clean INTEL
be invigorating. Thanks,
IN Obama: My Hopey,
ELLENESS
MEMORIAM Changey White House
Hot news from the health Nostalgia can be Years, David Litts mem-
and wellness frontier dangerous: Time oir of his five years as a
moves forward, and presidential speechwriter,
some fear that if were does more than roman-
GOODBYE TO ALL THAT entranced by whats ticize a happier time in
Its not you, Cabernet, its gone, well be less America. Between a real
me! After decades of rec- equipped to deal with behind-the-scenes look
reational boozing, Rachael whats in front of us at the White House (best
Combe calls it quits which is, in Trumps bathrooms included) and
America, a very real inside scoops (even Judd
234 danger. But some- Apatow helped write for
IT LIST
Obama!), Litt delves into
how our government really
IN EVERY works (forget Schoolhouse
ISSUE Rock!). Beyond being a
28 CALENDAR laugh-out-loud (and you
36 FASHION CALENDAR will) tell-all, this memoir
reminds the reader what
76 EDITORS LETTER
our country is capable of.
78 LETTERS Who knowsit might even
80 CONTRIBUTORS get you excited enough
86 HOROSCOPE to hit the campaign trail
301 SHOPPING GUIDE yourself.Cotton Codinha
 META L
OPEN YO U RS ELF TO ITS M ELO DY

WRAP UP YO UR B O DY IN ITS MYSTE RY

LO S A N G E L E S , 8 4 8 3 M E L R O S E P L AC E + 1 3 2 3 6 5 3 5 4 5 2 PA R I S , 3 6 AV E N U E G E O R G E V + 3 3 1 5 3 75 1 9 9 2

T H E H A R M O N I ST.CO M
USE YOUR
WORDS!
This month on ELLE.com, radio
journalist Celeste Headlee
dispenses priceless advice on how
to talk toand, more than that,
communicate withanyone
Its a strange time for communication in
America. At the end of last year, Gallup
found that the number of citizens who con-
sider the country divided on the most im-
portant values was at a record 77 percent.
The average American is on her smartphone
for five hours a day, the majority of which is
spent on messaging or social media apps.
This summer, the pro-IRL CEO of Meetup
told the New York Times that his toddler sons
first complete sentence was to ask Alexa, the
Amazon robot, to play a song.
All of this got Celeste Headlee, the
award-winning host of the public radio news
show On Second Thought, worked up enough
to write a book about it. Everything in a hu-
man beingfrom being able to detect when
someone is telling the truth, to hearing sin-
cerity and [forming] bonds of affectionis
set up for face-to-face communication,
Headlee says. And we do almost none of
it now. To her mind, our impaired ability
to communicate affects us at every level,
whether its the emotional risk of weakening
our interpersonal relationships, or the phys-
ical risk of miscommunication in a high-
stakes environment, like a hospital emer-
gency roomor, say, Congress.
The recently released We Need to Talk: How
to Have Conversations That Matter (Harper
Wave) is her attempt to take on
our widespread flailing, with
advice gleaned from her years
honing the fine art of on-air
conversation (not to mention
being a mother, and a percep-
Coast talk in Savannah, Georgia, 10 Ways to
Have a Better Conversation, has garnered just
south of 8 million views. As a radio journalist
whose previous stints include anchoring NPR
shows like All Things Considered and Weekend
Edition, Headlee is in the somewhat unique
position of having immediate playback ac-
cess to her own conversationswhich led to
a startling early-career realization. I was
a very selfish conversationalist, she says.
That was the biggest reveal to me: Number
one, how often I talk about
myself, but then number two,
when I did actually ask ques-
tions or engage other people,
how often those questions
were not about them but to
(often called the dean of African
American composers), grew up
in Mission Viejo and Los Angeles,
California, and is herself a clas-
sically trained soprano. As a kid,
she thought of politics as a lot of
people arguing for no reason, she
says. I didnt realize how much of
our daily lives are affected by what
politicians do. It was only when
she started writing and anchoring
stories for the Arizona Public Radio
station KNAU that she recognized
the importance of being informed
and involvedand that to do both
those things, good communication
skills are paramount.
Much of Headlees advice cen-
ters on heightening our capacity
for empathy and ability to really
listen. When starting a difficult
conversationbringing up a griev-
ance with a loved one, or talking
to an acquaintance with drastical-
ly different political viewsall
too often we go in preparing for a
debate when what we should be
preparing for is a conversation,
Headlee says. In a debate, youre
presenting your case. Youre telling
what you know. In a conversation, hopeful-
ly, youre learning something different.
Because clarity should be the goal, it also
helps, Headlee writes, to let the other per-
son know what you want out of the conver-
sation. When youre confiding in a friend,
are you simply looking for a shoulder to cry
on, or do you want advice? Tell the other
person, so he or she doesnt feel the need to
solve your problem.
Headlee hopes that her book will jump-
start more meaningful person-to-person
interaction in general. Human beings are
based around taking advantage of communi-
ty, Headlee says. I think we just get caught
up in our heads too much. Dont overthink
it. Just say hi to somebody. Meet your neigh-

Headlee: Jeff Roffman; insets: Getty Images (2)

tive human in the world). And prove how smart I was. bors. And if you need a little more help than
theres a clear desire for what Headlee, whose grandfa- that, head over to ELLE.com this month
shes preaching: Headlees vid- ther was the classical com- youll never again find yourself thinking,
eo of her 2015 TedxCreative- poser William Grant Still I dont know what to say.Keziah Weir

TALK THE TALK ITS POLITICAL

OCTOBER 2
All October, polish Lest your polite discussion
your communication turn into a replay of Gore
skills with Vidal and William F. Buckleys
infamous televised verbal
Headlees sparring sessions during the 68
time-tested Republican Convention: Learn
guidance the eloquence; lose the insults.
GRIEF COUNSELOR
OCTOBER 9
Finding the right words for
a friend whos in mourning
can be extremely difficult.
Sometimes the answer is
simple: no words. Headlee a conversation with a stranger.
demonstrates how to provide
the most comforting support.
PERFECT STRANGERS
OCTOBER 23
Whether youre in a long line at
the DMV or at a party where
you only know the host, it pays
to learn the fine art of striking up
to keep the conversation
How about this for an opener:
Ask a genuine question!
DATING GAME
OCTOBER 30
Who hasnt
experienced the horror
of a long silence on a
first date? Heres how
rollingwithout being fake. No
future Stepford girlfriends here.

54
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DSW X ELLE CELEBRATE

THE MARCH ON USA TOUR
On June 8, DSW partnered with ELLE to celebrate the
March On USAs mobile tour stop in Nashville, TN. Hosted
by DSW Style Ambassador, fashion influencer, and actress
Olivia Culpo, the VIP Happy Hour event featured a live THE HOUSE
performance by singer-songwriter and winner of NBCs LOOK FOR IT ON DIGITAL, BLU-RAY AND DVD
The Voice Season 4 Danielle Bradbery. Special guests
After Scott (Will Ferrell) and Kate (Amy Poehler) lose their
included bloggers Rachel Martino of RachMartino, Mary
daughters college fund, they try to earn it back by starting an
Seng of Happily Grey, Grace Gilmore of Nashville the
illegal casino in the basement of their friend's house.
Beautiful, and many more.
Facebook.com/TheHouseMovie
Shop The Olivia Edit and other must-have styles #TheHouseMovie
in-store at DSW or DSW.com.
2017 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. All rights Reserved.

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FASHION 360
Your ticket to New York Fashion Weekfrom every angle
At Fashion Week, the looks in
the front row, at the after party,
and on the sidewalk can be just
as influential as those striding
down the runway. This month,
ELLE.com photographer Tyler
64
@ellemagazine @elleusa
Joe will be on the ground giv-
ing New York Fashion Week the
360-degree treatment. From de-
signers and influencers pushing
the envelope to models work-
ing it even off-duty, ELLE.com
O CAPTAIN! OUR CAPTAIN!
Michelle Yeoh boards Star Trek: Discovery
When youve played a Bond
girl and Crouching Tiger, Hidden
Dragons noble, beloved warrior
Yu Shu Lien, upping the badass
quotient isnt easy. But actress
Michelle Yeoh looked to the stars
for her next act: Shes taking the
command chair for her own in
Star Trek: Discovery, as Captain
Philippa Georgiou, leader of the
USS Shenzhou. And, surely to
the satisfaction of legions of die-
hard fans, Yeoh is something of
a Trekkie herself. As a child, I
always loved looking into space,
@elleusa ELLE Magazine (US)
will be celebrating all things
streetwith detailed style gal-
leries, fashion-muse music vid-
eos, and up-close-and-personal
snapshots to put you in the thick
of it all.
she told ELLE.com. I grew up
watching Star Trek, Lost in Space,
and Mork & Mindy. Though she
finds the thought of rocketing into
the obsessed-over universe a
little daunting, the Malaysian-
born actress will be making
history as one of the franchises
few female leaders, and shes hip
to the honor: Having my own
ship to command is pretty cool
its your wildest dream come
true. Read more about Yeohs
epic Trek takeoff at ELLE.com/
MichelleYeoh.
DIGITAL
BARD
Meet Yrsa Daley-
Ward, a poet who
versifies online
Who decided that only a picture
can paint a thousand words?
If you visit Yrsa Daley-Wards
Instagram (@yrsadaleyward,
105,000 followers), you might see
a screen grab that simply reads,
I do need your neck soon. Or
a slim 18-word excerpt from her
poetry collection, bone (Penguin
Books, September 26), in which
she examines the alchemy
between mind and bodywith
subjects ranging from trauma to
hunger to desire. Hear more from
Fashion Week: Tyler Joe (3); Daley-Ward: Kirill Kozlov; Yeoh: Jan Thijs/CBS Interactive
the poet about her viral success at
ELLE.com/YrsaDaleyWard.
YOURE A POET AND AN
ACTRESS. WHATS THE
CONNECTION?
I write for things to be spoken.
Not everyone likes to read. Why
shouldnt the work be passed on
orally to people who prefer to
hear things?
WHAT DO YOU TACKLE IN BONE?
Things that we dont say and
things that are very close to the
marrow. One poem, When It
Is But It Aint, is all about that
difficult kind of love that isnt so
pretty. Another, Karma, is about
experiences between girls and
how they shape you.
WHY SHARE SUCH INTIMATE
DETAILS IN YOUR POETRY?
Its larger than myself. Its
going to have moments of
uncomfortableness. But to
connect with people who feel the
same waythats rewarding.
2017 LOral USA, Inc.
Ive got you under my SKIN.
-MADONNA

MDNA SKIN ARRIVES SEPTEMBER 26, 2017

EXCLUSIVELY AT BARNEY S NEW YORK AND MDNASKIN.COM

MDNASKIN
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 ROBBIE MYER S
Editor-in-Chief
RUBA ABU-NIMAH
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 BEAUTY
BREAKTHROUGH
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EDITORS LETTER @Robbiemyers @Robbie_Elle
One in a Billion
A quiz: How many people in the world do you think will see this
months cover of Rihanna? Her debut in the magazine was in July
2007, in a piece called The New Radicals, by our current deputy
editor, Maggie Bullockand this is now her fifth time on the cover.
That puts Rihanna in a tie for most ELLE covers with Beyonc and
Elle Macpherson, the ur1980s supermodel who ushered in the era
of the Amazon at the same moment American women were pour-
ing into the workplace in record numbers and beginning to vie for
serious political power. A broad-shouldered six-footer, Macpherson
replaced the attenuated 70s disco girl whod, understandably, tried
to dance away the malaise of the Vietnam War. Nobody was going to
knock Elle down. (Oh, and she was married to the magazines long-
time creative director, Gilles Bensimon. Who liked to photograph
his wife.) So, back to our cover.
Recently, as I read report after report weighing the impact of
print in the digital era, I decided to put our August cover star, Emilia
Clarke, to the test. We had a media analytics company track how
many people saw the story, including our fetching image of Clarke
in that beautiful floral D&G dress. It was whats called earned
mediawe didnt pay to secure extra digital trafficand the piece
had yet to be syndicated across the other 45 ELLEs around the
world, and their companion websites. With the incredible strength
of ELLE.com (15 million uniques a month in the U.S.), plus our huge
social channelsELLEs Instagram (2.8 million followers), Face-
book (4.9 million), Twitter (6.6 million), and Google+ (4.3 mil-
lion)I figured wed get to about 40 million. Which is amazing! So
even I was surprised to learn that the reach of one cover star from
the August issue of ELLEwhich had only been on the newsstand
for a single week; three left to gowas 320 million. One-third of a
billion! And it crossed multiple mediums: The New York Post fea-
tured our Emilia images prominently in the paper and online, as did
the Daily Mail, Business Insider, People.com, Fox News, and count-
less other websites, social feeds, etc.and of course theres you, our
5 million magazine readers, who drive this calculation.
I wondered as I put this issue to bedone that has already been
syndicated to ELLEs across the globewhat multiple of 320 million
would get to feast on the beautiful image of Rihanna shot by Slve
Sundsb? (And no disrespect to Emilia! Like I said, that 320 million
was only after one week!)
It turns out that Rihanna is a unicorn, having conquered every
discipline shes set her sights on: from music to social media to fash-
ion to, now, beauty, thanks to the global launch of Fenty Beauty by
Rihannawhich features 40 shades of foundation in an effort to en-
hance every skin tone without compromise. She has also captured
the hearts of everyone from Eminem to Zac Posen to A$AP Rocky to
76
Olivia Wilde and Pharrell Williams, as well as other luminaries who
gave us an assist in interviewing her.
Another person who captured our hearts this issue is former New
York City mayor Mike Bloomberg, who sat down with Senior Features
Editor Lisa Chase in his famously open-plan offices at Bloomberg
L.P. Following President Trumps withdrawal from the Paris climate
agreement in June, Bloomberg announced he was personally going
to commit some $15 million to make up for the American govern-
ment reneging on its commitmentmoral and financialto reduce
greenhouse gas emissions by 2025. Now thats a patriot.
This issue will drop right as New York Fashion Week kicks off, and
we are feeling downright patriotic about our annual Personal Style
Issue, and our first-ever jury-adjudicated Personal Style Awards.
Our 17 jurors are every bit as chic and influential as our 12 honorees
(winners? That denotes losers, and thats so not how we think about
personal style)women who inspire and move us when it comes to
getting dressed.
People often ask me what the difference is between style and fash-
ion, and I say its sort of like professional versus intramural sports:
Fashion is a living, breathing organism that conducts business in
real time, with real players, writhing markets, and lightning-quick
changes in influences, influencers, moods, and ideas. Style is per-
sonal, intimateits what happens with those ideas and pieces as
they make their way off the runways, the models and muses, and
into the carts and closets of an individual who wants to express who
she is, who she wishes to be.
If theres anyone who is exactly who she wants to be, its Esther
Perel, author of the forthcoming The State of Affairs: Rethinking
Infidelity, interviewed this month by Features Director Laurie Abra-
ham. In the beginning of her fascinating exploration of Perels ideas
around sex, love, commitment, and self-actualization, Laurie notes
the effect that Esthers jewelry has on her effort to understand the
therapist as a human being. Its the loveliest and, in the way only
Laurie can tell it, most revealing and penetrating description of how
a simple sartorial choice can unleash layers of potential meaning
about who we are.
And what else could it mean, as people around the globe start to
see our cover of a serene and composed Rihanna looking at all of us
from inside a violet metallic hearta color spun from a combination
of shades from her own makeup lineother than the universal truth
that love conquers all?
MAXMARA.COM
 Great piece on the @nytimes
Trump scribe @maggieNYT
Maggie Haberman. A great
journalist. A patriot.
@nyc_oz, Twitter

Everyone should read

this.@DebGuadan, Twitter

Rachael Combes profile of

Maggie Habermanwill make
you believe in journalism again,
and might even give you hope
about the potential of honest,
thorough reporting to cut Caption
across party lines.
L. V. Anderson, digg.com

Oy vey. [Habermans] a prime

example of what happens when
the oppressed learn to love the
oppressor.
@NatalieDanford, Twitter
MOTHER OF DRAGONS
ELLEs August cover star,
Emilia Clarkeknown best for
her role as Daenerys on Game of
Thronestalked to writer Joseph
Clarke
Hooper about the hilarity of
nude scenes and her aspirations
TALKING POINTS
McIntosh
CH-CH-CHANGES
After more than a decade of
dressing appropriately for
the job she loves, longtime
political strategist Jess
McIntosh decided to embrace
her more authentic personal
style (Politics, Not as Usual,
August). Turns out, it was a

Clockwise from top left: Alexi Lubomirski; Bec Lorrimer; courtesy of Target; Getty Images (3). Write to us at ELLE,
criticisms of Haberman and to run her own company. The liberating moveand one with
Cool Hand Maggie, ELLE respond to them. My main cover shoot, photographed by which ELLE readers identified:

Editor-at-Large Rachael
Combes July profile of New York
Times reporter and resident
Trump whisperer Maggie
Haberman (published the week
Trump implied, via Twitter,
that he was under investigation
by the FBI for potential
obstruction of justice), was
touted in must-read lists by the
Atlantic, Longform, and Global
Comment. It also provoked
impassioned responsesin and
out of the Twittersphere:
Insightful, smart,
interesting.@juz44, Twitter
critique of Haberman is one
that I direct toward many,
perhaps most, other political
reporters. She seems to buy
into the myth that being a
disinterested and objective
reporter is a real thing, or even a
desirable thing.
@ThomasPetrino, Twitter
Haberman
Alexi Lubomirski and styled by
David Vandewal, had both GOT
fans and fashion lovers in thrall:
Oh, my! Some Italian
sensuality. This shot [pictured
above] reminds me of a younger
Gina Lollobrigida. Love it.
Benn98, thefashionspot.com
And on the eighth day, God
created Emilia Clarke.
greenday4ar, Reddit
Slay, Kweeen, slay.
@gerzzzey, Instagram
Letters to the Editor, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019. Letters may be edited for length and clarity.
@jess_mc, great article in
@ELLEmagazinereminded
me of my days working in DC,
and how our personal styles
evolve with age and career.
@kate_childs, Twitter
Just read @jess_mcs style
essay in @ELLEmagazine....
I work in nonprofit comm,
and her story is very familiar!
Embrace being the weird
one!@meljones77, Twitter
E-mail us at elleletters@hearst.com.

This description of New York

Times scoop machine Maggie
Haberman working will give
you a heart attack. Not just
anyone can do the job.
Jeva Lange, of The Week

It would have been nice to

see the author grapple with

78
EL AINE & TRAVIS HAVE BEEN TOGETHER FOR FIVE YEARS.

HER DIAMONDS ARE MORE THAN TWO BILLION YEARS OLD.


David Vandewal
@JUDASVANDEWAL
STYLIST
THIS MONTH: THE TOTALITY (PAGE 256)
I love working with strong
women who are very unique
like Rihanna, Emilia Clarke, and
Lameka Foxcool women who
carry fashion further and have
something going on! Favorite
spot: A few months ago, I was
in Salvador, Bahia, in Brazil, and
I was really swept away by it; it
was paradise! Also, Ive always
been a really big fan of Morocco.
I love the culture and the food.
Listening to: Frank
Ocean; Tyler, The
Creator; oldies like
Simon & Garfunkel;
Lana Del Reys
Beautiful People
Beautiful Problems.
80
Jennifer Cotton Codinha
Vineyard
WRITER
@COTTONCODINHA
BEAUTY AND FITNESS EDITOR, ELLE
THIS MONTH: THE THIS MONTH: COOL RUNWAYS (PAGE 218)
TOTALITY (PAGE 256)
Reading: The double-whammy, perfect cocktail
When we asked artist of Patricia Lockwoods Priestdaddy and Rachel
Richard Phillips if he Khongs Goodbye, Vitamin, both of which are
would be interested in hilarious and touching, chased by the invigorating
contributing, it turned Chelsea Girls, by Eileen Myles. Binge-watching:
out that he was actually If its on Netflix, Hulu, Freeform, or even a
in the middle of painting marginally accessible platform and has at least
Ris portrait. And as we a one-and-a-half-star rating (though Ive been
were going to press, he known to make exceptions), Ive probably watched
finished it. the whole thing. I can never get enough of Bobs
Personal style icon: Burgers. Listening to: Im on a pretty heavy
Kate Lanphearan rotation of podcastsWho? Weekly, Reply All, and
ELLE alum!who
epitomizes a certain sort
2 Dope Queensdepending on the time of day, what
I have to do, and how intelligent I want to be on the
of punk-rock credibility subway.
thats rare in the fashion
world.
Dream destination: Megan Deem
Clockwise from top left: Daniel Jackson/Art + Commerce; courtesy of the subject; Bjorn Looss;
Oahu. Surfing on the @MEGANDEEM
North Shore, hiking to WRITER
THIS MONTH: NEW FRONTIERS
Manoa Falls, swimming
courtesy of the subject; courtesy of Penguin Random House; courtesy of Orienteer
(PAGE 212)
with dolphins, eating
fresh pineapple.
Go-to store: Im obsessed
with TheOutnet.com! I go on
Listening to: The there all the time.
Regrettes Feel Your
Feelings Fool! If you need
Dream vacation: Ive wanted to go to
Australia my whole life. Close second:
a confidence boost, this
the Maldives.
will do the trick.
Listening to: The Killers Wonderful
Binge-watching: Out-
lander. When current Wonderful. I havent been this excited
events get me down, it about an album since Adeles 25!
helps to be reminded Reading: I just finished Rich People Problems, by
that life used to be a lot Kevin Kwan, and Im starting Rich and Pretty,
harder. And messier. by Rumaan Alam.
 is a trademark owned by HACHETTE FILIPACCHI PRESSE SA, Paris, France.

HAIR ACCESSORIES

Discover the world of ELLE on elleboutique.com


In her latest design collaboration, supermodel Cindy Crawford looks
to her time-tested favorite: denim. By Brianna Kovan
When Pepsi aired its 1992
Super Bowl commercial, Cindy
Crawford and her cutoffs rang
in a new era of denim-centric
Americana. Now Crawford,
51, has launched a three-piece
capsule with Re/Done, which
reworks vintage Levis with
contemporary cuts. Aptly titled
The Crawford, the collection
features an ironically airbrushed
hoodie (1), vintage T-shirts, and
a straight-leg jean, and is avail-
able at Colette, Barneys New
York, Ron Herman Japan, and
shopredone.com. Its a throw-
back, she says, but a modern
interpretation. Here, the people,
places, and pieces she holds close:
1
Your greatest skill?
Being organized.
Greatest shortcoming?
Impatience.
Where are you right now, and
where do you wish you were?
Im at our lake house in Canada,
exactly where I want to be.
Whom do you talk with every
day? My husband and kids.
Do you let people borrow
your clothes? Two years ago, a
friend of mine was nominated
for an Academy Award for
her documentary, and I
let her borrow a dress.
I have gowns that Ive
only worn once, like a
beautiful Versace. Im
happy that they get to
be worn again.
84
JEAN THERAPY
Are any pieces off-limits?
Certain jewelry is just senti-
mental to me. Id hate to put
someone else in the position
of borrowing it and losing it. I
would be devastated.
Favorite denim moment?
My Pepsi commercial (2). Those
were my jeans that I wore [to
set], and as we were figuring
out wardrobe, they were like,
Do you mind if we just
cut your jeans off?
What clothing do you
7
buy over and over?
A white T-shirt that
isnt too thin, isnt too
tight, isnt too long,
and isnt too short. [She
likes ones by Re/Done
and Monrow.]
3 similarly to mine.
Crawford in her
re/done Levis
shorts ($178)
Most treasured accessory?
A diamond dog-tag necklace my
husband gave me for Christmas
10 years ago. On one side, its
all diamonds, but on the back,
there are little pictures of my
kids engraved. Thats the side I
wear close to my heart.
Latest beauty discovery?
Dior lip scrub (7).
All-time favorite beauty
product? My Meaningful
6 advice have you given to Kaia
2
Beauty Environmental Protecting
Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF
30 Sunscreen (3). Its a two-in-
one: The SPF, and its also a great
primer for under makeup.
You studied chemical
engineering at Northwest-
ern. Why science? Im good
in science and math, so I
was offered a scholarship if
I went into engineering. [My
daughter] Kaias really good
at chemistry, too. Its fun
seeing how her brain works
How did you encourage
your kids love of science?
I let them figure stuff
out on their own, like
letting [my son] Presley
take apart a radio or
remote control.
Most recent splurge?
An alligator backpack
(6) from The Row. Its
the chicest thing ever. 4
The best gift youve received?
When I was dating my husband,
I told him once that Id always
wanted a pianowhen I was
a kid, we could never afford one.
He managed to have one sneaked
into the house, and our friend,
whos a musician, was playing.
Thats what I woke up to on
Christmas morning.
Favorite piece of
technology? My Fitbit (4).
Crawford (center) and hoodie: Sebastian Faena; backpack:
Your signature scent? Theres a
woman named Azzi Glasser, and
she does bespoke fragrances.
Thats all I wear now.
courtesy of The Row; Fitbit: courtesy of Fitbit
Best book youve
read recently? Trevor
Noahs Born a Crime
(5). I suggest listening
to it, because he has
the best voice, and hes
really funny.
5
What modeling
and Presley? Be on time, be pre-
pared, and stay off your phone.
 By the Astrotwins, Tali and Ophira Edut

LIBRA or date adventurously until the 14th

then get serious about settling down.
GEMINI (MAY 21JUNE 21) Health is wealth,
and Octobers stars call for a tune-up. As vital
SEPT 23OCT 22 Jupiter sails into your wellness zone for 13
With wild child Jupiter lumbering AQUARIUS (JAN 20FEB 18) months on the 10th, superfoods and supple-
through Libra since September With the Sun illuminating your trav- ments become your fall obsession. The Sun,
2016, youve been evolving at an el zone until the 22nd, wanderlust Venus, and Mars pay homage to your fame
unprecedented rate. The red-spotted Freida Pinto,
October 18
strikes hard. But dont stray too far zone all monthset up the tripod and hit
planet offers respite after the 10th, sail- from the Wi-Fi: On the 10th, Jupiter as- Record, or step into a more public role. Leg-
ing on to Scorpio and your sensual-but-sensible cends from Libra into Scorpio, igniting a endary love could arrive near the new moon on
second house for 13 months. Take one last Bol- 13-month cycle of professional expansion. By the 19th, while coupled Geminis could have a
shoi ballerina leap near the Libra new moon November 2018, you could swap your free- big announcement to share. The Scorpio Sun
on the 19th, then get your toe shoes on solid lance lifestyle for a steady paycheck or become renews your passion for your work after the
ground. Your new goal: financial stability by CEO of your own business. (Pro tip: Delegate.) 22nd. Hunker down!
November 2018. In romance, with amorous Relationships strengthen while cosmic love-
Venus and Mars converging in Libra from the birds Venus and Mars copilot through your de- CANCER (JUNE 22JULY 22) The peacock is
22nd on, you could find love at the office or voted eighth house until the 14th. Dont shy your power animal starting on the 10th, when
start a side hustle with your SO. away from labels! flamboyant Jupiter draws you out of your shell
until November 2018. Get comfortable in the
SCORPIO (OCT 23NOV 21) Ready your PISCES (FEB 19MAR 20) Control freak or limelightor allow your work to
launchpad: On the 10th, no-limits Jupiter free spirit? Octobers planets ping-pong you be- shine unapologetically. The
blasts into your sign for the first time since tween these paradoxical poles. Until the 22nd, ideas youve been quietly de-
October 2005, igniting a year-plus cycle of ex- the Sun hovers in Libra and your seductive yet veloping are ready for their
pansion. Change comes at a gloriously acceler- security-obsessed eighth house, calling for big reveal. The 5ths full
ated pace, especially when Scorpio season more reassurance in matters of romance and moon could also bring major
begins on the 23rd. Prep yourself for this red- finance. Peripatetic Pisces enters the scene on career cred, rewarding you
letter reinvention tour by detoxing and down- the 10th, when worldly Jupiter voyages into with a prestigious title or as- Dakota Johnson,
sizing. With Mars and Venus mingling in your your nomadic ninth house until November signment. Cupid is solidly in your October 4

tech sector until the 14th, digital dating could 2018. Travel far and frequently, perhaps spend- corner during Jupiters year-and-change cycle,
bring a fruitful swipe. Coupled Scorps: Spice ing a season overseas. You could also expand which could yield a romantic renaissance or
up your shared calendar by assembling a cul- your horizons by starting a business or enroll- even a bambino. A potent arrow may pierce
tured crew for dinner parties and group travel. ing in grad school. Ah, the liberated life! your heart near the new moon on the 19th.

SAGITTARIUS (NOV 22DEC 21) Your
heavenly helper Jupiter settles into Scorpio on
the 10th, plunging you into more than a year of
healing and surrender. Supremely supportive
people will surround you now: mentors, thera-
pists, shamans, maybe even an angel investor.
Hew space in your schedule for creative devel-
opment by outsourcing time-sucking tasksa
virtual assistant could be a sanity saver near
the 19ths new moon. Business and pleasure
intermingle until the 14th, as Mars and Venus
merge in your career zone. Have drinks with
your conference-call crush, or start an online
venture with your amour.
CAPRICORN (DEC 22JAN 19) Youre in
mover-and-shaker mode, as the Libra Sun am-
plifies your ambitions until the 22nd. Plus, on
the 10th, enterprising Jupiter launches into
your tech sector for more than a year. You
could dream up a digital tour de force or raise
a round of funding for business development.
For analog-oriented Caps, community lead-
ership calls. You might even find your
place in politics before the 2018 mid-
ARIES (MAR 21APR 19) Youve earned your
bona fides, Ramand on the 5th, the years only
full moon in Aries sounds the call for self-
promotion. Polish your profile pages, because
people will be Googling your name. Partner-
ship opportunities abound all month: Flirt with
potential candidates, then be assertive about
locking them down after the 22nd, as Mars blaz-
es into your relationship house until December
9th. On the 10th, fortuitous Jupiter activates
your wealth zone. Increase your fiscal savvy
during this year-plus phase by building a diver-
sified portfolio. Two words: compound interest.
TAURUS (APR 20MAY 20) Youre free to love
again, thanks to a healing full moon on the 5th.
Good thing, since heavenly heartthrobs Venus
and Mars canoodle in your romance zone until
the 14th. Act upon your attractionsbut dont
do all the work. On the 10th, worldly, whimsical
Jupiter sails into your committed partnership
house for more than a year, guiding you to
The One. Hint: This might be a cross-cultural
or long-distance relationship. Coupled
Bulls: Cleave to independent paths
LEO (JULY 23AUG 22) With Octobers
buzzy star map, change is the only constant.
Remain playfully versatile, and you wont be
thrown off by peoples custom-ordered prefer-
ences and fluctuating demands. Your coopera-
tive nature could seal a profitable partnership
by the new moon on the 19th, making the has-
sle fully worth it. Does your lair need more
flair? On the 10th, venturesome Jupiter nests in
your domestic zone until November 2018. At
the Sun-Jupiter meet-up on the 26th, women
will be your lucky stars for the coming year
consider this your first powerful sister act.
VIRGO (AUG 23SEPT 22) Red-hot Mars
and Venus share a flight path through Virgo
until the 14th, increasing your sexy swagger.
A relationship could become a forever-after
thing near the full moon on the 5th. Time to
call it quits? On the 8th, a Venus-Saturn clash
hastens your departure. Mars blazes through
Virgo until the 22nd: Initiate meetings, and be
more aggressive about closing deals to reach
greater success. On the 10th, Jupiter embarks
on a yearlong cycle through your communica-
Getty Images (3)

terms. After the 22nd, swap solo- while still supporting each others tion zone. With people hanging on your every
venturing for collaboration, as the dreams. Financial flow improves word, its time to write your memoirs, record
Scorpio Sun helps you assemble with the new moon on the 19th. Net- a podcast, or position yourself as the next
your soul squad. Travel with your SO, work and circulate! Snapchat superstar.

Kate Winslet,
October 5
86
 Clockwise from
top left: Coppola
at her art exhibit;
a night market in
Taipeis Songshan
District; xiao long
bao; Taipei 101

EASTERN EXPOSURE Coppola started her trip with

During a trip to Taipei, director Gia Coppola xiao long bao, a Taiwanese take
discovers the burgeoning art scene in Taiwans on Chinese soup dumplings.
Traditionally, minced pork and
capital city. By Brianna Kovan broth are wrapped in extra-
At 30, Gia Coppola is no stranger at the shows opening. delicate dough, then cooked
to the family business. The I was a quiet person and an and served in bamboo baskets.
granddaughter of Francis and observer, Coppola says of what At Taipei 101the 1,670-foot,
niece of Sofia has directed short initially drew her to photogra- bamboo-inspired skyscraper
films for Opening Ceremony phy, which she studied at Bard with observation decks offering
and Diane von Furstenberg, and College. It felt like a comfort- 360-degree views of the city
has garnered critical praise for able medium for me, but I never and its surrounding mountain
her 2014 feature-film debut, Palo wanted to take photography on ridgesCoppola sampled a ver-

Clockwise from top left: Vincent Huang; Roland Nagy/Alamy; Thomas Baker/
Alto. In May, the Los Angeles as an occupation, because I felt sion with casings so impossibly
native, who moonlights as an it would ruin the hobby that I light they rivaled tissue paper.

Alamy; Ulana Switucha/Alamy; courtesy of the subject; Vincent Huang

amateur photographer, hosted a loved so much. Back home,
photography exhibit in Taipei to shes currently developing The
showcase her work in Secret Life of the Lonely Doll, both bermodern architecture The highlight of her trip was an
the sixteenth edition of an indie drama about chil- and centuries-old Buddhist outing to Jiufen, a small hilltop
cult fashion publica- drens book author Dare temples. Coppola wandered town about an hour northeast of
tion A Magazine Wright, starring Naomi through Huashan 1914, a verdant Taipei overlooking the East Chi-
Curated By, which Watts and Jessica Lange. building complex (and former na Sea. There were lots of street
was guest-edited sake winery) in the Zhongzheng vendors, and it felt as if you were
by Gucci Creative District that hosts pop-up design in tight Moroccan alleyways,
Director Ales- Taipei really has an shops, fine-art exhibits, and Coppola says. During the late
sandro Michele. interest in art, she says of music festivals. More-established nineteenth century, a gold rush
Actress Rowan the capital city, a culture pieces are on display across the brought waves of travelers to the
Blanchard, 15, and tech hub that boasts Keelung River at the National now-bustling tourist hot spot.
joined Coppola Palace Museum. Touted as hav- Coppolas favorite stop? The
on her three-day ing one of the finest collections two-story Shengping Theater,
Taiwanese jaunt of Chinese art, it holds 600,000- originally built in 1934, which
and performed plus artifacts from the Song, hosted Taiwanese operas and
spoken-word poetry Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. films in its midcentury heyday.

From left: Blanchard and Coppola;

a cake at the exhibit inspired by one
88 of Coppolas photographs

For this months Personal Style Awards, we asked the 17 style arbiters and culture
luminaries in these pagesactors, fashion execs, designers, and moreto put it
to a vote: Who truly wears it best? (See page 264 for their picks!) And then we
asked them to really open up: Here, our jury shares stories of fashion awakenings,
style idols, and the forever-treasures that are so much more than stuff
THE GIFT THAT TOOK
25 YEARS TO UNWRAP
Rachel Comey
Designer, Rachel Comey
My grandmother gave me a
pearl necklace. It took her, like,
25 years to give it to me, because
she gave me one pearl at a time.
That was an old traditionslash
the way that families could
afford nice things. So when I
was little, every Christmas and
birthday Id get one pearl, and
shed add it to my little string.
When I was eight, I had eight
pearls on a string. I remember
being like, Why another pearl,
every holiday?an ungrateful
kid, basically, who never even
wanted a pearl necklace. But
90
THE THAT
CHANGED MY LIFE
IF ITS GOOD
ENOUGH FOR
ZIGGY STARDUST...
Prabal Gurung
Designer, Prabal Gurung
One of my prized posses-
sions is a vintage David
Bowie T-shirt that Ive had
maybe 20 years. Its all
ratty, but I just love him
and I just love that shirt. I
found it at a vintage store
in London, when I briefly
lived there. Ive always
been a big fan of Bowies
music, but more than that I
loved how daring, un-
afraid, and challenging he
was throughout his career.
No one out there was more THE BOTCHED
provocative, fashion- and HAWK TAKES FLIGHT
style-wisehe really Grimes Musician
made us question gender When I was 13, I really
and prescribed notions wanted a Mohawk, but
of dressing. When I was
really skinny in my teens,
my mother and my
I used to wear womens
hairdresser uncle oversaw
clothes because I couldnt the whole thing, so they
fit into mens. People used only let me have a faux-
to snicker, and Id be like, hawk. It was terrible, and
You know whatDavid it definitely instigated
The designers
grandmother
Bowie wears it. He gave my downfall from
me the courage to dress banal unpopularity into
however I wanted.
infamous unpopularity.
From left: courtesy of the subjects (3); Getty Images
by the time I got the complete
strand and had a moment to This probably sounds
reflect on it, I was like, Wow. negative, but I think it was
It took her years to give me my first taste of the true
that gift. It was so beautiful power of fashion: that I
and powerful, something that could legitimately upset
I was completely not grateful people just by looking a
for, all those years, and then
amazed by her persistence. In
certain way. Ive never let
my twenties, my apartment on anyone cut my hair since,
Elizabeth Street got broken into; so in a way all my bad
the necklace was stolen. But I haircuts can be traced to
have it in my mind, in my heart, this one early look.
so its fineI got the gift.

THE ALL-AMERICAN
SECURITY BLANKET
Gabrielle Union Actress
I started wearing a jean
jacket in the fifth grade. Every
year, our school would take
a field trip to San Franciscos
Pier 39, and there was a store
where you could buy little
pop-star music buttons. Every
time, Id buy more: I had Def
Leppard, Van Halen, and lit-
erally the face of every mem-
ber of New Edition. My jean
jacket was covered. It became
my security blanketand
when I got my period in the
seventh grade, I hadnt fig-
ured out that it was every 28
days or so, and so I just took to
wearing the jacket around my
waist at all times. To this day,
you will never see me without
a jean jacket; I keep one in
my purse. I have no brand
loyalty: My original one was
the OG Levis, but over the
years...DL1961, Rag & Bone.
Ive bought jean jackets from
Kmart. I live between L.A.,
Miami, Chicago, and Atlanta,
and at each place there are at
least two jean jackets.
92
Harry
that I could celebrate. My
favorite shade is not too satu-
rated, not too bright, not too
pastelits the most obvious
pink you could find. Theres a
photo of Debbie Harry wearing
it: She had on pink pants and a
white band T-shirt, a pink hat,
WHEN THE COOLEST kept to myself, but I knew that pink shades. She is the queen
OF WOMEN WEARS at some point I needed to find of cool: Shes fearless; shes a
THE COOLEST OF HUES a place where I could be open rebel; shes political. I dont
Stuart Vevers Executive about that. One of my favorite think that anyone has rocked a
Creative Director, Coach quotes of all time is from Paul leather jacket the way she has.
I grew up in a macho environ- Simonon of the Clash, who said She embodies a certain irrever-
ment, in a smaller city [called that pink is the only true rock ent time in New York City and a
Doncaster] in the north of n roll color. Once I realized defiance that Im drawn to. [At
England. When I was 13 or 14, that I didnt have to fit into a Coach], people know they dont
a guy saying his favorite color certain bracket or a clich need to ask me what music to
was pink was probably a bit of that pink can mean anything I put on. The answer every single
a rebellion. It was something I want it tothat was something time is Blondies first album.
GIVE A GIRL A PAIR OF PLIERS,
SHELL GIVE YOU AN ICON
Edgardo Osorio Designer, Aquazzura
Theres a great story about the power of
Union, Harry, and Osorio: Getty Images; Vevers: Neil
shoes: Marilyn Monroe used to take off the tip
of one of her heels so that when she walked,
it gave her that swing that drove men crazy.
That walk was calculated. I mean, she stopped
traffic. Thats something I love about shoes
Rasmus/BFA/Rex/Shutterstock
and fashion: When you walk in a certain
wayyour chest is up, your butt is back, youre
standing straightyou can be so sensual. As
Coco Chanel said, Youre a butterfly by night.
A woman can transform herself completely:
Thats the power of fashion.
 T I S T S
A R E I M I
P E A K
S RO L E
, E V E RY LOO
E, A L
K
IG
S
H
TA
T
RTS
W EI G H T
ANY C T M
T H P ER F E T IO N
.
WI L O
U T Y BA L M
BE A

AVAILABLE AT

EIMI THE GLOBAL LANGUAGE OF STYLING

#SOPHIEXWELLA #SPEAKEIMI
WELLAUSA.COM WELLA PROFESSIONALS USA 800-935-5273 2017 THE WELLA CORPORATION.
YES, WHITNEY IS STILL FROM SUN-IN
EVERY WOMAN, BLONDE TO GOTH
AND THEN SOME VIXEN, IN ONE SNIP
Catt Sadler E! News Anchor Constance Zimmer
My style icon? Actress, UnReal
Whitney Houston.
Were talking late 80s;
I was 14 or 15 and just
starting to really care
about what I wore.
When she came out
with I Wanna Dance
With Somebody and I grew up in Newport Beach,
had that big, vibrant where I had this superlong,
Sun-In/lemon/baby oil/bleach
hair, and the lavender highlighted brown hair with no
dress she wore in the bangs. Then I decided to come to
video, and a lot of Hollywood to, you know, become
denimIm from the an actress. I remember my first
heartland, so I live in premiere: I was so excited to
denimher personality wear this very loud, long vintage
was so big, with that skirt that had strips of different
megawatt smile. I materials all around it. I was like,
Oh my God! This is going to be
remember being like, amazing! On the red carpet,
Whoa. Thats big-time, nobody knows who I am, but
shes big-time. Thats theyre taking so many pictures,
fashion. and Im so excited. Then I end
up in the trades my first time
outand everybody hates the
skirt. Those are your moments
WHEN EVERYTHING silk chiffon dress. It came to where you realize fashion plays
CHANGED, SHE WAS just below the knee. I remem- such a huge part in your persona.
ARMED IN SILK ber putting in these little pearl I knew I needed to figure out my
Bethann Hardison earrings. Id been more of a look. So I cut my hair. Id become
Fashion Activist tomboy, but I looked so lovely obsessed with Louise Brooks and
At 18, I got pregnant. It was that the people in the street decided to do the really short
my first time having sex. And waiting, they didnt even rec- bangs, the short bob, and dye
at that age, I had to marry the ognize me. The dress meant it black. The second I changed
young man. This wasnt so a lot because it was a turning my hair, it changed the way I
much a choiceit felt like a point in my life. I knew, stand- dressed; it changed the way peo-
duty. I had been really athletic. ing in front of the minister, ple looked at me on the street; it

Sadler: courtesy of the subject; remaining images: Getty Images

I ran track. I planned to go to that I had no intention of changed the roles I got. I started
college. All those things just staying married to that guy. being cast as Goth girls and riot
went schwooop! So I went and It was the moment I began to grrrls. To this day, Ive kept it
bought this champagne-colored become Bethann. that way. It just works for me.

THE BO DEREK
HOMAGE THAT
FAST-FORWARDED
BOLLYWOOD
Priyanka Chopra Actress
You have Indian people all
over the world, right? We live in
New York. We live in Australia.
I did a comedy in 2008 called
Dostana, about a girl in Miami.
In one scene, I did an ode to Bo
Derek: I ran out of the ocean in
slow motion in a gold one-piece
swimsuit. It was the chat of the
town and became an iconic
moment in terms of my style
and fashion. In the
same movie, I did a
music number, Desi
Girlwhich means
Indian girland wore a very
modern sari with a bikini top
as a blouse. It took traditional
culture but pushed it forward
in a fashion-conscious way.
Now if you see any girls in
Indian movies
today, theyre very
aware of their style
the same way.

94
THE NO-LOAN SHARK
Kate Valentine
Designer, Frances Valentine
Its funnyI find myself saying
to my daughter, No, no, no,
absolutely not. I dont really
remember my mom saying
that, unless something seemed
inappropriatelike halter tops,
though I eventually got away with
those, too. She pretty much let us
find our own way. But it drove her
crazy when Id loan my clothes
out, which is what every teenager
does. Shed say, No, you have
to own your own look. Nowthe
idea of owning a real sense of
style on your own? I adore that.
Most of the fashion icons I look to
arent the ones running around
96
in the latest so-and-so. Fran Leb-
owitz? Its not my look, but I love
it. People will joke, Oh my God,
please tell me youre not wearing
that pink shirt again tonight?
They know I will wear something
over and over. And I dont get rid
of things. Theres a fishermans
sweater my dad brought back
from Ireland when I was 11 that
Ive had for more than 40 years.
Its wool, superauthentic. Ive
definitely spent more money
having that thing rewoven at
Madame Paulette than its worth,
but its irreplaceable for me.
A LOVE STORY
TOLD IN TAILORING
Gabriela Hearst
Designer, Gabriela Hearst
My whole family used to use
this seamstress, Tota, and all
the clothes were custom made
because [growing up on a ranch
in Uruguay] there were no fancy
stores aroundthe nicest thing
you could do was get European
fabrics and have things made.
We wouldnt buy a lot, but for
each important stage of life or
big event, wed have something
made. Theres a suit from my
mother, this olive wool skirtsuit
with a blazer that has, like, a
military seal and her initials em-
broidered on the pocket in gold.
She had a lot of things done when
she got married; my grandpa
gave her money for new clothes
after the wedding. I always loved
the whole outfit, so much so
that when we launched the first
collection, I had that suit in it.
Its always been a reference to
quality materials made to last, to
how to make clothes.
Hearst
as a girl,
with her
mother
BROWN CORDUROY,
A ROAD LESS
TRAVELED
Alison Loehnis President,
Net-a-Porter Group
The major fashion moment
that I remember from super
early onother than my
Danskin blue, possibly tie-
dyed pants and matching Joe
Cool Snoopy topwas when
I had a choice of what jeans I
could buy. I cant remember
how old I was, but it was that
moment where your parents
actually take you into the
Clockwise from bottom center: courtesy of Hearst; Getty Images (2); Billy Farrell/BFA/Rex/Shutterstock; Michael Austen/Forbes Collection/Corbis via Getty Images
store and you can choose.
We were in East Hampton
at Levis, a big, cowboy-ish
store with a big red horse
outside. For reasons that
completely elude me, I chose
brown corduroys. Like, dont
ask. Anyway, I remember
everyone saying to me,
Wow, thats a sophisticated
choice. I didnt know exactly
what that meant, but I felt
really good because I chose
something different. When
youre little, so many deci-
THE SUPPORT GROUP sions are made for youand
Tracy Reese I had a school uniform and a
Designer, Tracy Reese summer camp uniformand
When I first started my it made me feel really grown-
business, I was on my own up to be able to choose some-
and I was struggling. I thing myself.
used to go to a successful
business support group
at my church. There were
other entrepreneurs, but I
was the only one in fashion.
We had to go around the
circle and tell everybody
our names and what we did,
and I explained that I was
a clothing designer and I
was kind of down about the
whole thingI didnt think
it was important work; I just
thought this is lightweight
stuffand a woman turned
to me and said, Youre a de-
signer? Thats so wonderful.
You have the opportunity to
make people feel good about
themselves. The light really
went on for me. It changed
how I think about my work.
 WHO YOU
CALLING AMERICAS
SWEETHEART?
Jessica Alba Actress
I was always this combination
of masculine and feminine. I
came up in the era where you
could wear a feminine slipdress
with combat bootsthe whole
leather/lace thing, hard and
soft. Ill wear a slipdress for the
summer, a long sweater and
a necklace and earrings, but
with platform sneakers, combat
boots. It started when I was 12,
probably because of Cryin, the
Aerosmith music video where
Alicia Silverstone gets her belly
button pierced. I thought it
was awesomeand I also got
SHINING, GLEAMING, my belly button pierced. I was
STREAMING, FLAXEN, always trying to push against
WAXEN...HAIR! the stereotype of what people
Ivan Bart thought of me based on my ap-
Bart with long hair: courtesy of the subject; Bart wearing suit, Alba, and Getty: Getty Images; music video still: from Cryin by Aerosmith

President, IMG Models pearance. Im more feminine on

We all know you can have
the greatest stylist in the world
and the greatest makeup in the
world, but if the hair is wrong,
its like, Oh God, what hap-
pened? Ive been
rummaging
through pictures
recentlyI have
one of me at one
and a half where
I had a brush in
Bart at age 21 my hand. I was
always obsessed.
In high school, you start ex-
perimenting; I used henna. In
college, I dyed it white blond,
like Billy Idol. When it grew
out, I had black roots; then it
kept growing and I had really
long hair and went all Spandau
Ballet. I was a part of the New
Romantics. I wore, like, a bolo
tie. Then I went for a trim and
ended up with a Jennifer Anis-
ton Rachel. My hair had been
all one length, past my shoul-
ders, and now I was feeling
pieces that were at my cheek.
I was devastated. I grew it out
one more time and then got a
buzz cut, and that was the end
of that. I never grew my hair
long again.
the outside, so I always wanted
to be kind of tough, more ag-
gressivenot wanting people to
think I was going to be a sweet,
passive pushover.
Silverstone
in Cryin
KNOCKING ON
HEAVENS DOOR
Jacqui Getty
Costume Designer
Before I got married in
2000, my mother-in-law
took me to Paris to buy my
trousseau and introduced
me to couture. It was like a
Cinderella story. I was 28,
and I showed up at Chanels
couture house wearing
Converse and Levis and a
bomber jacket. They said,
Madame, I think youre in Theyre so timeless you cant
the wrong place. Experi- not wear them.
encing Paris couturethe
designers and the fabrics and
the seamstresses, and watch-
ing something be built on me,
that was a really high-fashion
moment for me. Until then,
my life had been more about
what was going down the
runway. But at that point, I
understood it in a different
way, the craft that goes into
it, and the artistry and beauty
of it all. I still have those
pieces and still wear them.

99
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100
 Introducing A New Day.
Style that goes
wherever you do.

2017 Target Brands, Inc. The Bullseye Design is a registered trademark of Target Brands, Inc. C-000485-07-002
STYLE ACROSS
AMERICA: HOUSTON
From boots to ball gowns, the Bayou City has always been a study in dramatic
contrasts. Houstons most stylish women give us the skinny on the scene
Goins in front of
Francesco Solimenas The
Royal Hunt of Dido and
Aeneas in the museums
Powell Gallery.
Blouse, chlo. Pants,
khaite. Earrings,
rebecca de ravenel.
Pumps, sergio rossi.
Her own Fendi belt.
Chris Goins MFA: an Oscar de la Renta ret-
RETAIL DIRECTOR, MUSEUM rospective featuring six decades
OF FINE ARTS HOUSTON of fashion from the legends
@chrisgpaz own label, plus treasures from
Zipping around MFA Houstons his time at Balmain.) Her choice
270,000 square feet of galleries, of local hot spots: Vinoteca
Chris Goinswhos in charge Poscol serves a delicious
of snagging exclusive acces- baked cod that Im constantly
sories for the museums retail craving, and for a drink, its 13
outpostsrelies on a simple, Celsiusa wine bar in a former
monochromatic uniform that dry cleaner (the old sign is still
includes Palmer Harding shirts out front). As for her signature
from Texan berboutique Forty blond bob? Its the handiwork
Five Ten and ethereal Louiza of hairstylist Casey Clay at the
Babouryan dresses. (Up next at buzzy Shyn Salon.
102
Graham in the citys
eclectic Montrose
neighborhood.
Forty Five Ten Sweater, versace.
Shirt, thom
browne. Jeans,
citizens of
humanity. Her
own Marni sandals.
Araceli Graham
FOUNDER, COOPERATIVA
@cooperativashop
Nabile Quenum (styled by Yashua Simmons; hair by Dennis Clendennen; makeup by Victoria Callaway for VCI Artists;
In 2014, Mexico Citybred
Araceli Graham traded the cor-
porate world for fashion when
produced by Kristin Massa); insets, from top: Luis Ayala; VJ Arizpe; Paul Hester; courtesy of the company
she launched her e-com site,
13 Celsius
Cooperativa. Inspired by the
old-school, in-home trunk shows
that offer grassroots support to
many emerging designers in
Mexico, Graham and her team
scour Latin America in search
of talents such as Ayni (Graham
loves their chunky, hand-knit
Peruvian sweaters for fall).
Houston is such a different city
than when I arrived 13 years
ago, she says. The shopping,
Sicardi Gallery
restaurantseverything is more
vibrant. Graham gets a taste
of home at Cuchara, chef (and
fellow Mexico City native) Ana
Beavens Montrose restaurant,
and Sicardi Gallery, which fea-
tures Latin American art. Haute
boutique chainlet The Webster
is her go-to source for the
added height of Marni block
heels, oversize Thom Browne
button-downs, and Rochas car-
digans. Its not all big hair and
The Webster cowboy boots anymore.
 On left: Fria Metallics Rose Gold 822
Above: Fria Metallics Bronze Shimmer 58
#liveincolor
#livein
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FOR LORAL PARIS *When using system of shampoo, conditioner, and treatment. 2017 LOral USA, Inc.
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 Amber Elliott
SOCIETY WRITER,
HOUSTON CHRONICLE
@amberjelliott
To keep up with a job that
requires running from news-
room to gala and back again,
the ability to get black-tie ready
in a snap, and elbowing for
interviews to cover the citys
substantial philanthropic scene
(i.e., everyone from Lynn
Wyatt to Tina Knowles at the
100plus events that mark the
season), Amber Elliott scours
Houstons best vintage and
consignment shops. Hot tip: At
More Than You Can Imagine
in tony River Oaks, she recent-
ly scored a Lady Dior bag for
$125. The perfect coif to match?
Gucci-clad Mexico City trans-
Elliott takes out-of-
towners to Brenners
on the Bayou for Gulf
oysters, Texas quail, and
occasional gator spotting.
Top, skirt, fendi.
Earrings, tuleste.
Ankle boots, gianvito
rossi. Her own jewelry
and Louis Vuitton clutch.
Birds Barbershop
SPOTTED! MORE GREAT STYLE ON THE STREETS OF HOUSTON
Hayden Lasher Tamar Mendelssohn Erin Breen
Handbag designer, Hayden Lasher Creative director, Abejas Designer, Mirth Caftans
@haydenlasher @abejasboutique @mirthcaftans
108
plant Cern is the hair guy to
the ladies who lunch, but Tray
at Birds Barbershop is my guy.
The place just feels so Texas
they give you a Shiner beer,
and the music is great. After
hours, its off to Brasserie 19 to
catch the Whos Who tucking
into paper bags of truffle fries
in their couture gowns. The
charity scene has really loos-
ened up, Elliott says. Sure,
you still see the dramatic
jewels that have been pur-
chased with mega divorce
settlements, but the younger
generation is definitely more
relaxed, favoring youthful,
on-trend pieces from more
accessible contemporary
brands and bold colors.
Naomi Rougeau
Tktktktk
Brasserie 19
Nabile Quenum (styled by Yashua Simmons; hair by Dennis Clendennen; makeup
by Victoria Callaway for VCI Artists; produced by Kristin Massa); insets, from left:
courtesy of the company (2); Debora Smail
Laura Weaver
Interior designer, Laura Weaver Interiors
@lauratweaver
 The Row
MODESTY ABLAZE
After an infatuation with naked dressing, fashion is channeling
the power of concealment. Leigh Stein finds her style potency
is strongest when her bod is kept under wraps
When I was in my twenties, clothing was one
of many tools in my people-pleasing arsenal.
I moved from my hometown outside Chicago
to New York in 2003, and my first job was as
a coat-check girl at The Park, a nightclub on
Tenth Avenue; once I calculated the correla-
tion between how I looked and how many
tips I pocketed, I invested in increasingly
low-cut black tops and sparkly eye shadow.
I felt like a sexy stranger when I caught my
reflection in a mirror, but I was too shy to
wear my work clothes outside my 7 p.m. to
4 a.m. shifts. When I picked up a second job
as a temp for an important and intimidating
lawyer in the art world, I figured out that the
best way to endear myself to her was to wear
a floral scarf tied atop the crown of my head,
a pair of chandelier earrings, and a maxiskirt
with a wide belt. Frida is here! she would
call when I arrived at the Upper West Side
penthouse she worked out of.
I found that I could make up for whatever
credentials I lacked (a college degree, a pass-
port, friends in high places) with a can-do
attitude and an instinct for dressing the way
I thought others wished to see me. At 22, my
style was somewhere between ingenue and
librarian (my favorite outfit was a black pencil
110
Cline Erdem
skirt with an orchid-pink cardigan, under a
periwinkle trench with three-quarter sleeves)
when I fell hard and fast for a guy who was a
ringer for James Dean. He suggested I buy a
vintage black leather motorcycle jacket on
eBay so we could match when we rode his
blue Honda Nighthawk. Reader, I bought
the jacket: brassy snaps, distressed at the
seams, asymmetrical zipper. After dating for
only a few months, we moved to Albuquer-
que, New Mexico, sight unseen, and spent
the next six months in the desert, drinking
and destroying each other with the kind of
doomed passion one finds in an Elena Fer-
rante novel. Looking back, I see my younger
self wearing black and blue and purple
the palette of melancholy.
In New Mexico, I discovered Georgia
OKeeffe. I fell in love with her landscapes,
the eerie beauty of her paintings of skulls
juxtaposed with roses and morning glories.
But even more than her work, I fell in love
with her. Here was a woman who had ar-
ranged her life around her art, something
that I yearned to do, as I hastily typed pages
of my novel in between fighting with my boy-
friend and waiting tables at a diner. I read
her 679-page biography, Georgia OKeeffe:
Emilia Wickstead
A Life, by Roxana Robinson, like gospel. In
her twenties, OKeeffe was already setting
boundaries to protect what mattered most
to her: In 1915, she took a job teaching art to
college students in South Carolina instead
of returning to New York, so she could draw
without the buzzing influence of the city; she
boldly initiated a relationship with a younger
man who was her intellectual equal, while
taking care to protect her feelings so she
wouldnt be consumed by love. Dont you
think we need to conserve our energies
emotions and feelings for what we are going
to make the big things in our life instead of
letting so much run away on the little things
every day? she wrote to a friend.
The relationship between the artists
modernist aesthetic and her lifestyle came
alive for me last spring, when I saw Georgia
OKeeffe: Living Modern at the Brooklyn Mu-
seum, an exhibit that included not only 150
works of art and photographs but 50 differ-
ent garments that she styled and wore. From
a cream silk shift with a cleverly attached
jacket (which she sewed herself ) to an A-line
Emilio Pucci dress with a waist-cinching,
black-on-white geometric pattern, OKeeffes
wardrobe was dramatic in its high-contrast
palette, yet elegant in its simplicity. In photo-
graphs, her collared blouses, hats, and head-
scarves draw the eye right to her stoic face.
As the New Yorker writer Haley Mlotek not-
Imaxtree.com
ed, the exhibit makes clear that OKeeffes
style was not ancillary to her genius but fun-
damental to it. When asked why she wore
 AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED

AGJE ANS.COM
only black and white, OKeeffe quipped that
if she had to choose which colors to wear,
she wouldnt have time to pick the ones she
wanted to paint with.
Decades after OKeeffes death in 1986,
her wardrobe (which spanned nearly the
entire twentieth century) still looks fresh.
It would fit right in with the long-sleeve,
Victoriana-meets-Gothic gowns in Valenti-
nos fall collection, or alongside the androgy-
nous tailoring and restrained color palette
that The Row has always favored and that,
this season, was expressed in long, neutral-
colored shifts and shirts buttoned up to the
chin. After years of sheer dresses, cleavage
contouring, and nipple freeing, its now cool
to cover up. Many designers have recognized
a gap in the market for women who wish to
dress fashionably if conservatively, for reli-
gious reasons or otherwise, including those A look from Hana
Tajima for Uniqlo
of us who appreciate the sophistication of
a demure silhouette. Erdems fall collec-
tion, for example, was a fantasia of embel- Now that Im in my early thirties,
I realize that Coco Chanels famed dictum
lished, long-sleeve maxidresses in royal
colors, inspired by a mash-up of what the
designer imagines his Turkish and English
great-grandmothers would have worn, while Elegance is refusal is just a nicer way of
Marni showcased a dozen ways to sport a
turtleneck (under a voluminous jumpsuit or
a sharp yellow suit, for starters).
saying, You need some boundaries.
Looking at these fall runways made me beads; a fuchsia chiffon ankle-length skirt Whats worth noting about this latest
nostalgic for outfits Id treasured in the late that tied with a ribbon at the waist (I wore wave of modest-fashion options: Its as in-
90s: the pleated burgundy skirt I wore with it with silver combat boots, naturally). The formed by a policy-neutral point of view
a light-gray wool bolero embellished with more coverage I saw in these runway looks, as it is by religious dictates about sleeve or
the more I could appreciate the detailsthe hem length. Simi Polonsky, cofounder of the
Georgia OKeeffe cut, the adornments on the cuffs and collars. nearly three-year-old modest-fashion line
I have no moral, religious, or values-driven The Frock NYC, tells me, If you would have
reason to dress conservatively, but I have a asked me a few years ago, What is modest
curvy figure thats not necessarily flattered fashion?, I would have said, For me, a Jew-
by the latest trends (backless dresses, off- ish woman, it has to cover X, Y, and Z. But
the-shoulder tops, boxy blouses). When now that [her sister and cofounder] Chaya
shopping with my sister, I hear variations [Chanin] and I have started this business and
of Do you have anything you could wear connected with so many women of different
over that? when Im trying things on. But in backgrounds, were realizing that modesty
modest designs, I saw a gateway to a style of is an attitude. Even when designers choose
dress in which Id never have to risk acciden- to work with parameters in order to suit the

From top: courtesy of the designer; Getty Images

tal exposure.
Luckily, off-the-runway brands are also
paying attention, turning their energies to
the booming modest fashion market,
meaning pieces that have been crafted with
special attention to sleeve length, hemline,
neckline, and fabric sheerness. Uniqlo has
collaborated since 2015 with the emerging
New Yorkbased Muslim designer Hana Ta-
jima to offer a collection of maxiskirts; long-
sleeve, high-neck tunics; and hijabs in neu-
tral colors that are easy to mix and match.
modest customer, they seem inspired by the
challenge. When Tajima first started design-
ing her Uniqlo line, she learned the rules of
traditional religious dressing (sleeves past
the elbow, hemlines to the ankle) and then
made herself forget them, so she could try
and make something new that wasnt a cul-
tural reference point. For me, theres no cre-
ativity without constraint.
With a Thomson Reuters report estimat-
ing $44 billion was spent globally in 2015
by Muslim women on what is described as
Continued on page 298

112
 FASHION
First up:
A kaleidoscopic
spin on knitwear
dressing
manicure by Kelly B at De Facto for Dior; models: Isabel Scholten and Jeanne Cadieu at the Society Management
Hair by Herv at Sarah Laird for Davines; makeup by Christian McCulloch at Streeters for Tom Ford Beauty;

WINTER IS
COMING
Bundling up doesnt
have to mean forfeiting
style points. Here, our
CliffsNotes to cold-
weather chic
PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAYMION MARDEL
STYLED BY YASHUA SIMMONS
EDITED BY JOANN PAILEY

Right: Wool-blend
sweater, $1,520, skirt,
$1,380, both, missoni,
missoni.com. Feather hat,
$1,050, shell necklace,
$2,095, fur handbag,
$1,850, boots, all, prada.
Far right: Wool cardigan,
$3,390, skirt, $2,110,
feather hat, $1,050, scarf,
$1,200, boots, all, prada,
at select Prada boutiques
nationwide. Stylists own
socks, on both. For details,
see Shopping Guide.

115
 WRIT LARGE
Your best bet to nail the look of
the moment? A trusty turtleneck,
blown out of proportionin the
best possible way

TRY THESE!

Isabel Scholten at the Society Management; Khaite turtleneck: Richard Majchrzak/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno at R.J. Bennett Represents); remaining stills:
Hair by Herv at Sarah Laird for Davines; makeup by Christian McCulloch at Streeters for Tom Ford Beauty; manicure by Kelly B at De Facto for Dior; model:
The fisherman classic with a femme flared hem
Cashmere turtleneck, khaite,
$1,600, collection at matchesfashion.com

Perfectly cropped to pair with high-waisted trousers

Wool-blend turtleneck, rag & bone,
$395, collection at saksfifthavenue.com

courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide

Wool turtleneck, $1,150,

pleated floral skirt, $1,395,
lambskin handbag with
scarf, $1,650, jersey boots,
$995, all, balenciaga,
at Balenciaga, NYC. Gold
hoops, wasson, $1,760.
Your fall MVP: bold red, plus cable accents Gold rings, both, david
Cashmere turtleneck, barrie, yurman, $1,900. For
$1,101, collection at modaoperandi.com details, see Shopping Guide.

116
 Mario and Giacomo
Filippi Coccetta

POM SQUAD
If youre not familiar with Umbria-based
label Fabiana Filippi, you soon will be. The
32-year-old brandwell known in Europe
for its luxe outerwear (velvet puffers, fur-
trimmed cashmere knits)just opened its
first U.S. store in downtown Miamis ber-
mall, Brickell City Centre, with more state-
side locations to come. Founded by brothers
Mario and Giacomo Filippi Coccetta (the
firms namesake is Giacomos daughter) in
Italys Cashmere Valley, the label is synon-
ymous with playful twists on timeless Italian
tailoring, like this classic cashmere overcoat
at De Facto for Dior; model: Isabel Scholten at the Society Management; Mario and Giacomo Filippi: courtesy of Fabiana Filippi;
Hair by Herv at Sarah Laird for Davines; makeup by Christian McCulloch at Streeters for Tom Ford Beauty; manicure by Kelly B

embellished with fox-fur pom-poms.

stills: Richard Majchrzak/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents); for details, see Shopping Guide

STYLISTS TIP
Dont hesitate to belt your
outerwear for a more
defined waist.
Coat, $3,115, turtleneck,
$620, both, fabiana
filippi, fabianafilippi
.com. Belt, y/project,
$255. Watch, rolex, Wool belted jacket, $1,435, cashmere wool
$12,400. Rings, both, blend pants, $733, velvet and fox fur down coat,
david yurman, $1,900. $3,160, all, fabiana filippi, fabianafilippi.com

119
OCT 9

CRAIG FERGUSON

MEGAN FERGUSON
 MARCHING
ORDERS
Before you pack up your gauzy
summer dresses, consider
teaming them with Chlos
snow boot, made in collabo-
ration with blizzard standby
Sorelwhich youll only see in
ELLE. Custom hardware and
ribbonlike lacing add a touch of
romance to the utilitarian sta-
ple. And the heavy boot/flowy
frock contrast? The ultimate
unexpected cool-girl pairing.

manicure by Kelly B at De Facto for Dior; model: Isabel Scholten at the Society Management; for details, see Shopping Guide
Hair by Herv at Sarah Laird for Davines; makeup by Christian McCulloch at Streeters for Tom Ford Beauty;

Silk georgette dress, chlo,

$4,295, at Chlo boutiques
nationwide. Gold hoop earrings,
soave oro, $220. Shell necklace,
prada, $2,095. Gold and pav
diamond ring, wasson, $1,360.
Gold and diamond ring, david
yurman, $2,200. Gold signet ring,
garland collection, $1,200.
Suede calfskin boots, sorel x
chlo, $515. Stylists own socks.
For details, see Shopping Guide.

122
Tradition since 1774.
birkenstock.com
Shop the collection at yves-salomon.com
CORINNE FOXX KENNETHCOLE.COM
Actress, entrepreneur, and advocate for mental health.
#TheCourageousClass
 Photographed by Tyler Joe

join the club

M ESSI K A .COM
 #M e s sika by GigiH a did

MOVE ADDICTION COLLECTION

THEKOOPLES.COM
PA R I S
THE EMILY BY
A BAG COLLABORATION WITH EMILY RATAJKOWSKI
 the
LOOK PRESENTED BY

MODERN
LUXURY
Inspired by Rihannas effortless
confidence and strength, the
limited-edition RIHANNA
CHOPARD Joaillerie Collection
blends urban modernism
with pure design for an iconic
jewelry collection. Crafted from
ethically sourced 18kt rose
Fairmined gold, the rectangular
motifs link frosty cubes with
solid ceramic blocks in a shade
of green personally selected
by Rihanna.

SHOP IT NOW
Shop the exclusive collection in Chopard
Boutiques and online at Chopard.com.

RIHANNA LOVES
CHOPARD NECKLACE
$5,680
 Viscose-blend printed puffer
coat, moschino couture,
$3,795, collection at Saks Fifth
Avenue stores nationwide.
Cotton T-shirt, imnotatoy,
$35. Denim jeans, levis, $98.
Velvet and lambskin boots,
pierre hardy, $795. Stylists
own hoodie and belt. For
details, see Shopping Guide.

De Facto for Dior; model: Isabel Scholten at the Society Management; magazine: Don Penny/Studio D; for details, see Shopping Guide
Hair by Herv at Sarah Laird for Davines; makeup by Christian McCulloch at Streeters for Tom Ford Beauty; manicure by Kelly B at
FLY GIRL
One of our favorite pastimes chez
ELLE is riffling through back
issues. When Franco Moschino
burst onto the scene in 1983, ELLE
was among the first to cover the
whimsical Italian innovator. His
mantrathat getting dressed
should be funaligned perfectly
with our own. The graphic puffer
that current Moschino creative
director Jeremy Scott sent down
the houses fall runway gave us a
heavy-duty hit of dj vu. Here,
in the spirit of old-school ELLE,
weve styled the statement piece
with layers of sporty separates
and, of course, a dose of denim.

ELLE, May 1988

138
 TOP GEAR
Right now, the chapeau is practically essential.
Here, ELLEs three favorite styles guaranteed to turn heads
BERET AMPED-UP BASEBALL FAUX-FUR NEWSBOY

dior marc jacobs coach 1941

Runway, from left: Imaxtree.com; courtesy of the designer; Imaxtree.com; Maison Kitsun beret: Richard Majchrzak/Studio D (styled by
Anita Salerno at R.J. Bennett Represents); Adrienne Landau cap: Saulo Villa; remaining images: courtesy of the designers
Embroidered-cotton beret, maison kitsun, Gabardine cap, gucci, Faux-fur cap, adrienne landau,
$95, at Maison Kitsun, NYC $440, gucci.com $195, made to order at adriennelandau.com

Denim beret, maison michel, Knit and crystal cap, dsquared2, Faux-shearling cap, miu miu, $975,
$520, michel-paris.com $645, dsquared2.com at select Miu Miu boutiques nationwide

Leather beret, dior, Shearling and leather trucker hat, coach 1941, Faux-fur cap, giovannio,
$780, at Dior boutiques nationwide $595, at select Coach stores nationwide $55, giovannio.com

140
 Powerful digital motor.
Designed for fast drying.
dyson.com/hairdryer
 THE CONQUEST WEDGE

SOREL.COM
 Shearling and
calfskin handbag,
cline, $2,650, at
Cline, NYC

Faux-shearling
boot, miu miu,
$1,190, at select
Miu Miu boutiques
nationwide
Svend Lindbaek (prop styling by Rachel Haas at King Management); for details, see Shopping Guide

HOT FUZZ
Bring it, fall!
Were oh-so-ready
(not to mention
on-trend) with the
latest shearling accents
EDITED BY JENNIFER GACH

143
 PIECE OF
WORK
The hottest patchwork
suede is sharp, saturated,
and assembled with
jigsaw precision
Suede handbag,
valentino garavani,
$3,445, at Valentino
boutiques nationwide

Svend Lindbaek (prop styling by Rachel Haas at King Management); for details, see Shopping Guide

Suede ankle boot,

sergio rossi, $1,750,
sergiorossi.com

144
Style, Delivered
 PEARL JAM
No twinset? No problem.
Pearls find a new home on
polished bags and pumps

Pearl-embroidered
handbag, chanel, at
select Chanel boutiques
nationwide

Toby McFarlan Pond (prop styling by Timothy Biel at Haley Resources); for details, see Shopping Guide

Crystal- and pearl-

embellished patent
leather pump, gucci,
$1,290, gucci.com

146
Style, Delivered
 CURRENT AFFAIRS
Trend-seekers, watch this space:
Here are three big fall ideas to get the jump on now

1 THATS A WRAP
As a striking accent on sleek
leather dresses and statement
earrings, whipstitching sheds
its Old West associations

Steel watch on leather strap,

cline fossil, $115, at Fossil
stores nationwide balenciaga

Runway: Imaxtree.com (3); Bally loafer: Richard Majchrzak/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno at R.J. Bennett Represents);
3 LOCK IT DOWN
A hip-hop standby with a certain
practicality: Youll never have to
fish for your keys again

remaining images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide
Leather handbag, valentino alexander
garavani, $2,745, at Valentino mcqueen
boutiques nationwide

White gold and diamond pendant

2 STAY GROUNDED The preppy staple gets a heavy dose of evening embellishment necklace, jill heller,
$6,500, jillhellerjewelry.com

Suede and jewel loafer, Calfskin loafer, bally, Embroidered-velvet and crystal Gold bracelet, tiffany & co.,
fratelli rossetti, $680, $750, at Bally, NYC loafer, giuseppe zanotti, $950, $1,300, tiffany.com
fratellirossetti.com giuseppezanotti.com

148
 All eyes on Lindsay in Fiery ankle boots
Discover more in-store and at aldoshoes.com

I
all eyes on me
Lindsay Marcella - Blo er
 MODERN
TIMES
Chanels latest homage to one

at Atelier Management for Chanel; casting by Paul Brickman at

of the houses most recogniz-

Risako Matsushita at Bryan Bantry; manicure by Angel Williams

Toby McFarlan Pond (styled by Yashua Simmons; makeup by

Zan Casting; model: Paulina King at Supreme Management)

able motifs, the Code Coco
watch, features a sleek steel
band and clasp that mimic the
quilting of the iconic 2.55 bag.
The best part? Not one but two
hinged, diamond-studded faces:
one to tell the time, natch. The
other? Room for even more
diamonds, bien sr.
Steel, diamond, and black-lacquer
watches, tweed coat, embroidered-
lambskin handbag, all, chanel,
call 800-550-0005. White gold and
diamond rings, white gold rings, all,
chanel fine jewelry. Cotton
T-shirt, j.crew. Jeans, levis.
For details, see Shopping Guide.

150
2017 P&G

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 BOOTIE CALL
Step confidently into fall with our trusty guide
to the seasons top four cant-miss bootie shapes
LACE-UP VICTORIAN

Suede ankle boot, chlo, Suede ankle boot, agl, Pony-hair ankle boot, dior, Cashmere suede ankle boot,
$995, collection at Nordstrom $475, agl.com $1,450, at Dior boutiques nationwide jimmy choo, $1,250, at select
stores nationwide Jimmy Choo stores nationwide

FOLD-OVER

Chlo boot: Richard Majchrzak/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents); remaining images: courtesy of the designers
Suede and leather ankle boot, Python ankle boot, cline, $1,900, Leather ankle boot, the row, $1,550, Velvet calfskin ankle boot, isabel
$595, veronica beard, collection at Barneys New York collection at Barneys New York marant, $650, isabelmarant.com
veronicabeard.com

BROCADE

Brocade ankle boot, Crystal and python jacquard boot, Brocade ankle boot, Metallic jacquard boot,
marc fisher ltd, $225, dolce & gabbana, $2,395, at select ash, $198, ashusa.com sam edelman, $200,
marcfisherfootwear.com Dolce & Gabbana boutiques nationwide samedelman.com

SOCK

Knit and suede ankle boot, tabitha Knit ankle boot, salvatore Calfskin ankle boot, fendi, $1,000, Stretch ankle boot,
simmons, $745, tabithasimmons.com ferragamo, $695, at Salvatore collection at Barneys New York aldo, $90, aldoshoes.com
Ferragamo boutiques nationwide

152
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 IN THE BAG
Four instant fall updates, to have and to hold.
Whats your pleasure?
FUR-EMBELLISHED

Leather and fur handbag, louise et Suede and fur handbag, loeffler Leather, fur, and shearling
cie, $248, louiseetcie.com randall, $550, collection at Saks handbag, marni, $3,370, at
prada Fifth Avenue stores nationwide Marni boutiques nationwide

POWER POUCH

Cotton velvet handbag, clare v., Embellished viscose and silk handbag, Calfskin handbag, diane von
alexander wang $280, collection at net-a-porter.com giorgio armani, $3,595, armani.com furstenberg, $348, dvf.com

OVERSIZE TOTE

Runway: Imaxtree.com (4); remaining images: courtesy of the designers

Calfskin handbag, mulberry, Leather tote, simon miller, Leather handbag, akris,
balenciaga $1,425, at Mulberry, NYC $850, simonmillerusa.com $1,990, at Akris boutiques nationwide

CLASSIC FRAME

Leather handbag, michael michael Patent leather handbag, mansur Suede handbag, tods,
louis vuitton kors, $358, michaelkors.com gavriel, $695, at Mansur Gavriel, NYC $2,425, tods.com

156
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BRITAINS
GOT TALENT!
Fashion experimenter par excellence
Jonathan Anderson joins forces with Uniqlo
on a capsule collection of skewed English classics.
By Alison S. Cohn
Heres something you might not
know about Jonathan Anderson:
Hes a self-confessed Uniqlo
superfan. One of Londons most
innovative and forward-thinking
designers, Anderson is known
for upending classicsincluding
the cylinder-heel pump and gold
barbellpierced handbag he
created for his own labeland
for his sculptural experimen-
tations with leather for the
Spanish luxury house Loewe.
Yet, he asserts, All my T-shirts
are Uniqlo, all my sweaters, my
underwear, all my socks. The
33-year-old fashion clairvoyant,
who drew critical ire for a 2013
runway show featuring men in
158
ruffled shorts long before gender
fluidity became a fashion trope,
has massive admiration for
what the streamlined-basics
behemoth has achieved: Its
very difficult to reduce garments
to their essence. This fall,
Anderson teams up with Uniqlo
on a capsule collection of fan-
cifully updated British heritage
garments for women and men,
including a trench with supersize
tartan cuffs, an English military
sweater with bold gold buttons,
and a Nehru-collar cotton shirt
with the designers signature
ruffle dangling from its placket.
Here, Andersons five flexible
rules to live (and dress) by.
1. NO LOOK IS TOO OUT-
RAGEOUS IF YOU BELIEVE
IN A CHARACTER WHOD
WEAR IT. Prada stylist Manuela
Pavesi, whom I met working in
the brands visual merchandis-
ing department during my time
at London College of Fashion,
taught me that the essence of
style is mixing reference points:
putting a mens dress shirt, a paja-
ma pant, a trench coat, a sock, and
a sandal into a fashion melting pot,
and somehow making sense of it.
2. KILL CATEGORIESJUST
LOOK AT THE CLOTHES.
Growing up in Magherafelt, a
small town in Northern Ireland,
I used to go to the local shop
with my mother. Shed be like,
Thats on saleits a womens Whats amazing about collabo-
large, but you could wear it and
no one would know. So its her
thriftiness Ive got to thank for
my obsession with gender-fluid
clothing. Always remember
that whether something is in a
mens department or womens
doesnt make any difference.
Its you who are going to make a
garment work.
3. YOU CAN NEVER HAVE
TOO MUCH CASHMERE.
I have more than 50 Uniqlo
cashmere sweaters, which
might actually be too many.
One day, one of the girls in
my office came in wearing a
Uniqlo cashmere funnel-neck
shed bought in an extralarge;
I thought that was brilliant. We
created an extralong version
with ties at the cuff that give
Right: Duffle coat,
dress, backpack; far
right: trench, shirt,
jeans; all, uniqlo
x jw anderson.
For details, see
Shopping Guide.
it a slight feminine twist. On a
woman, it could be a dress, but
on a guy, it could just be an over-
size sweater. Theres something
so sensual about cashmere.
4. PRICE IS IRRELEVANT
TO DETERMINING TASTE.
Theres no longer any differ-
entiation between designer
and mass fashion brands.
Today consumers go to different
brands for different reasons.
I always wanted to do a JW
Anderson interpretation of a
puffer jacket, cut like a tailored
firemans coat. For me, Uniqlo
makes the best puffers because
theyve pioneered this ULD
[ultralight down] nylon fabri-
cation thats thin and warm.
ration as a creative platform is
that it democratizes fashion in a
very important way.
5. DONT BE AFRAID TO GO
IT ALONE. When I was a kid,
Clockwise from top left: courtesy of Uniqlo; Jamie Hawkesworth (2)
we used to say Hoover for what
Americans call a vacuum clean-
er. As in, Jonathan, can you
Hoover the dining room? But
now we say Dyson. I think its
remarkable how when Sir James
Dyson perfected that appliances
functionality by creating the
worlds first bagless vacuum
cleaner, he couldnt sell his
invention. So he set up his own
manufacturing company, and
the rest, as they say, is history. It
would be great if my name came
to mean shared wardrobe. I
dont know if it works that way in
fashion, but you never know.
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THE BEAT GOES ON
For Sybil and David Yurman, their time as California-counterculture
artists remains a potent source of inspiration. By Naomi Rougeau
It was much purer, says painter Sybil Yur-
man of the artistic idyll she enjoyed in the
60shopping back and forth between New
York and Northern California, where she ran
with a creative crowd that included Jack Ker-
ouac and Beat poet Michael McClure (whose
house she tended in between teaching art and
making ceramics). Even Yurmans big artistic
epiphany came about because of a countercul-
tural encounter: When Neal Cassady (the Beat
poet whom Kerouac immortalized as Dean
Moriarty in On the Road) brought her some
paints, she decided to pick up a brush.
Yurman is standing in the heritage room
in the Tribeca headquarters of David Yur-
man, the jewelry business she and her hus-
band, David, started in 1980. Amid black-
and-white snapshots of a twentysomething
Sybil, in a painters smock and pigtails, and
David, a trained sculptor, welding torch in
hand, is a towering display of the dozens of
iterations of cable bangles that helped propel
David Yurman into an iconic American brand.
Also scattered about: several of Davids ear-
ly worksstriking Giacometti-like bronze
forms, including his stunning Dante necklace,
composed of figures clinging to one another
as if spiraling in an inferno. David originally
made it for Sybil before it caught the eye of a
New York gallerist, who promptly commis-
160
sioned several more; the pieces quickly sold
out and inspired them to become jewelry mak-
ers while continuing to sculpt and paint.
Before meeting in 1969 in Greenwich Vil-
lage, both Yurmans had clear creative visions
early on: At 15, David, who grew up in Man-
hattan, spent the summer in Provincetown,
Massachusetts, as an apprentice to sculptor Er-
nesto Gonzalez. It was a formative experience.
Everyone was in Provincetown, he says.
Franz Kline, [Allen] Ginsberg, Robert Moth-
erwell. Oh, and Norman Mailer was there, too.
I hated that guy; he was really bad news. Da-
vids one-year stint in California in 1961 proved
equally educational: Eventually I did a little
LSD, he recalls, and even spent time with psy-
chedelic guru Timothy Leary. Did the pharma-
ceutical dabbling make for better art? Yes, but
it doesnt last, David says. The artists he knew
were like Alexander Calderthat guy was an
animal. He worked. Thats the real high.
From left:
A young Sybil
at work on a
painting;
David welding
From left: The Yurmans on
the roof of their Tribeca HQ;
a bangle and ring from the
new Barrels collection
Despite the high-gloss trappings of their
steel-and-glass HQ, the Yurmans havent lost
touch with their bohemian origins. Money
was never the objective back then. If you were
an artist at that time, you expected to starve,
Sybil says, remembering Magoos, an artist-
friendly bar/restaurant in SoHo that fed young
talent in return for their art. These days, the
couple spends Wednesdays in their Franklin
Street studio painting, welding, and recon-
necting with the source of their creativity.
The thread between Davids sculpture
and his jewelry is direct; the connection be-
tween Sybils artistic eye and the jewelry is
more subtle, but no less significant. Sybil, in
a certain way, finishes my work, David says.
Shell look at the little details and see that
somethings not right. Her sense of color is
particularly evident in the new Barrels col-
lection, which features two stones new to the
Yurman rangeimperial topaz and ama-
zonitesculpted into cylinders that are book-
ended by contrasting cabochons.
Clockwise from top left: Adam Friedberg; courtesy of the designer (3)
Davids office is a mlange of inspiration,
with bookshelves brimming with treasures: a
rainbow of geodes from his buying trips to the
annual gem show in Tucson, Arizona; Western
bronzes; a pair of custom-engraved silver and
gold spurs with his initials. When I note the re-
semblance of one of the cuffs hes wearing to
the knotted elephant-hair bracelets that were
so popular in the 70s, he confesses to having
been inspired by the African vendors on Ca-
nal Street at the time. But he remains loyal
to the cable motif that won him fame, with a
new book (David Yurman: Cable, Rizzoli) on
the topic out this month. During the research
process, he found proof that his inspiration has
prehistoric roots: We found this little fertility
goddess [statuette], he says, with a little sash
with cable lines from around 30,000 b.c.
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 Oscar de la Renta, fall 2017

ATTENTION, PLEASE
bucket bags, and you get the picture.) Mean-
while, Ive just emerged, after three years,
from a job spent working from home much
A new, look-at-me spirit ruled the fall runways. The question is, of the time, my only accessory my laptop
will you be wearing bygone-era glamour or fight-for-your-rights and my rare outings spent in not-real pants,
protest gear? By Vronique Hyland into a shared workspaceyou know, an of-
fice. Its an unusual set of specifics, but Im
Late one night, a friend trying to sell me Im convinced, as National Geographicstyle in step with many people of my generation
on the benefits of mindfulness sends me a documentation. Lately, though, I just hope here: Trying to stand out feels as cheesy as
textapparently, an acquaintance of hers that I can get through the day while escaping peacocking aimlessly around Fashion Week.
recently lost 170 pounds and gained a pro- everyones notice. My lack of enthusiasm for And so I embarked upon the fall 2017 show
motion, a transformation he credits to re- personal exhibition might be age- and weight schedule swaddled in a large and nondescript
peating a mantra 10 times every morning gainbased, but it has dovetailed nicely with coat that might be called the opposite of a
in the mirror. I dont believe her, but of the dawn of athleisure (okay, mainstream conversation piece (a conversation ender?),
course I want to know the mantra, and once athleisureI was hip to Prada Sport when fully prepared to see my anti-peacock ten-
she tells me, I cant stop thinking about it: Gigi Hadid was still an embryo) and a kind of dencies validated. What I found, instead,
Look at me. minimalist, id-suppressing style that has tak- were runway collections that lurched be-
Its been a while since I commanded any- en on global omnipresence. Casual fashion tween two poles, neither of them exactly un-
one to look at me. Once, getting dressed has assumed the kind of nonspecific speci- assuming: either unabashedly feminine, or-
was something I did to stand out, and no ficity that the writer Kyle Chayka, lamenting nate glamour, la the 80s socialites dubbed
print was too chaotic, no weird sartorial the growing sameness of modern interiors the Nouvelle Society, or shows tinged with
stone went unturned. There was a time, out- on the tech/culture site The Verge, recently the hue and cry of punk-influenced protest.
side the Opening Ceremony show, when a dubbed AirSpace. Identical design signifiers, There was no camouflage to be had here. In-
street-style photographer took a picture of Chayka noted, can be spotted everywhere stead, there were double-wide, steroidal ball
Imaxtree.com

me wearing a Mondrian-print overcoat and from Airbnbs to start-up offices and cafs gowns at Balenciaga (an unexpected move
spray-painted hot-pink creepersless in the worldwide. (Swap blond wood for white from the ultimate fashion rebel, Demna
spirit of celebrating personal style and more, sneakers and bare Edison bulbs for sleek Gvasalia); elaborate fur skirts at Fernando

162
Garcia and Laura Kims maiden outing for
Oscar de la Renta; and lush florals, bows,
plus that ultimate 80s signifier, the head-
band, at Altuzarra. On the other hand, at
Versace, admittedly never an outfitter of
wallflowers, we saw sheer tops proclaiming
Courage, and Missoni put every model in
a knit pussyhat. Sashes versus slashed tees;
Sloane Rangers or riot grrrls: The last time
we witnessed such stark contrasts in a single
season, we were mired in the 1980s. The one
thing that didnt seem to be on offer was a
middle ground.
For someone clinging to a comfort zone,
it was like taking a chic ice bath. Not that I
live my life by runway diktats, but the sheer
self-display going on made me realize that
my dream of everyone on earth ending up
in identical loose jumpsuits was not com-
Brock Collection Oscar de la Renta Vivienne Westwood Ashish
ing true anytime soon. (But we would have

Why is fashion moving from

been so comfortable!) When I saw prim-but-
cool Brock Collections puff-sleeve dresses,
clothes that earn the term confections, my
immediate point of reference was the beau-
tiful, bored debutantes in Whit Stillmans
vaguely 80s Metropolitaneven though the
married codesigners Laura Vassar Brock and
Kristopher Brock later tell me theyve nev-
er seen the movie. Their inspiration, Vassar
Brock says, was precious moments in ev-
eryday life, like giving your child a bath, or
going out for dinner with your husband in a
cocktail dress. Making the everyday formal
is a tradition for the couple, who live in Cali-
casual mecca Newport Beach, California,
but still make a point of dressing for dinner.
Perhaps its genetic: Vassar Brock tells me
that her mother wears Alaa shoes to water
the lawn. Notes New Yorkbased Elizabeth
Kennedy, who has begun making a name for
herself as a young eveningwear designer and
who, for fall, showed a collection inspired by
exotic birds and fit for socialites of a feather,
sameness to singularity so quickly
is it something in the fraught political
climate? An echo of Marie Antoinette?
The undoing of feminist fashion?
fashion?she reminds me that sometimes,
its just about novelty, too. Leave it to a pro-
fessional contextualizer to remind you that,
in the words of Ms. Britney Spears, its not
that deep. If its anything at all, Steele
says, its Big sleeves! We havent seen
those for a while.)
Far from this Georgiana of Devonshire
meetsGeorgette Mosbacher aesthetic were
the statement-laden runways of Missoni,
Prabal Gurung, Public School, and London-
and master of the blunt slogan Katharine
Hamnett. Its all very well doing high fash-
ion, but youre preaching to the converted,
he says. T-shirts have so much visibility, and
everyone wears them. Its the best canvas for a
slogan. Perhaps the biggest headline-maker
for the India-born designer has been the
Immigrant T-shirt he wore to take his bow
last season. I had not thought about selling
that, he admits; he wore it because I want-
ed people to know that I am actually an immi-

Runway, from left: Imaxtree.com (2); Getty Images; Imaxtree.com

Were seeing this spike in femininity be-
cause for so long women were dressing very
minimal, very masculine. I just think people
miss that.
While the Brocks and Kennedy operate
at the high end, a similar spirit can be seen
in high-street brands: The ribbon-strewn
Regency sleeves and off-the-shoulder neck-
lines that have predominated of late provide
an antidote to the omnipresent T-shirt uni-
form. (When I call fashion historian Valerie
Steele to get some context about why fash-
ion might now be moving from sameness
to singularity so quicklyis it something
in the fraught political climate? An echo of
Marie Antoinette? The undoing of feminist
based Ashish Gupta. His Ashish show, which
often features a burst of sparkle, had a more
somber (if still glittery) tenor this season,
with The Wizard of Oz as a starting point. In
a sense, it was a homecomingthe journey
Emerald Cityward was also the theme of his
2000 graduation collection at Central Saint
Martinsbut that had been an apolitical
show, while this was openly provocative. His
yellow brick runway played host to sequined
shirts emblazoned with Nasty Woman and
Stay Woke, pointedly recalling recent pro-
test slogans. Post-Brexit and post-Trump,
he tells me, he was pondering how to get his
message across when he thought of one of
his biggest heroes, the British provocateur
grant, running a business, who has a show.
The response was swift: Strangers sent him
their immigration stories on Instagram, and
he put the shirt into production.
Gupta was working in the tradition of
Hamnett, but also of Vivienne Westwood,
who showed what British rebellion is all about
with her fall collectionriotous, Pierrot-
like ruffles for both men and women and, in
a nod to her origins, sweaters proclaiming
Punk. Westwood tells me she started from
a place of despair, going back to Aldous Hux-
leys essays. (He considered nonstop dis-
traction the greatest evil. And thats what the
news is all the time.) Once, she tells me, rail-
ing against the system was her entire raison
Continued on page 298

164
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Gorunway.com

From Crayola-hued puffers to full-length fursplus styling

solutions galore: Our annual coat guide has got you, well, covered
EDITED BY JADE FRAMPTON

167
GENTLEMANS CLUB
Dont let the boys have all the (tailored, patterned) fun

Wool coat, hugo, $775, Cotton-blend coat, sandro, Wool-blend coat, smythe, Wool coat, theory, $895,
hugoboss.com $630, at Sandro, NYC $995, shopsmythe.com at Theory stores nationwide

Wool coat, iro, $1,165, Wool coat, zadig & voltaire, Wool coat, pinko, $835, Wool coat, the kooples, calvin klein
iroparis.com $698, zadig-et-voltaire.com at Pinko, NYC $650, at The Kooples, NYC

WEAR IT WITH

Market skirt: Richard Majchrzak/Studio D (styled by

Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents); remain-
Runway: Imaxtree.com; Hugo, Smythe, Theory, Iro,

ing images: courtesy of the designers; for details,

and The Kooples coats and White House Black

UNDER UNDER
see Shopping Guide

$50 $100
Abbreviated knits show A high-waisted pencil skirt
just enough skin keeps things ladylike
Cotton cropped sweater, Viscose-blend skirt,
aerie, $40, aerie.com white house black
market, $99, whbm.com
A clever convertible clutch equals
day-to-night ease
Calfskin handbag, mulberry,
$1,095, at Mulberry, NYC
The masculine styling keeps
things from getting too prim
Steel watch on leather strap,
seiko, $325, collection
at macys.com
Peekaboo pumps for
modern-day Cinderellas
Metallic leather and PVC
pump, gianvito rossi, $795,
gianvitorossi.com

168
 THE LONG GAME
The classic polo coat: now suitable for all occasions, and no longer just in camel hair
DAY NIGHT
Classic gray flannel calls for masculine staples Tuxedo-chic satin lapels up the glam factor

UNDER
$100
Silk blouse, pleione
clothing, $78,
pleioneclothing.com

Silk slipdress, sleeper,

$320, the-sleeper.com

Pleione Clothing blouse, Theory trousers, Pallas Paris and Creatures of Comfort coats, and Sleeper slipdress: Richard Majchrzak/Studio D
UNDER

(styled by Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents); remaining images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide
$250
Wool-blend coat, h&m studio, Wool coat, pallas paris,
$249, hm.com $1,800, pallasparis.fr
Black diamond and silver
earrings, tacori,
$1,990, tacori.com

Wool trousers, theory,

$455, theory.com

Satin and lace sandal,

Florentine leather bucket ch carolina herrera,
bag, dooney & bourke, Leather oxford, tibi, Satin handbag, staud, $560, at CH Carolina
$298, dooney.com $450, tibi.com valentino $215, staud.clothing Herrera stores nationwide

WEEKEND
A punchy hue perks up a casual uniform

Calfskin handbag, bulgari,

$2,400, bulgari.com
UNDER
$100
Wool-blend sweater,
guess, $89, guess.com

Wool coat, creatures of Denim jeans, brock Canvas sneaker, golden White gold watch on alligator
comfort, $1,200, at Creatures of collection, $475, collection goose deluxe brand, $530, strap, buccellati,
Comfort, NYC at Barneys New York goldengoosedeluxebrand.com at Buccellati, NYC

170
FLUFF PIECE
Natural-hued fur, whether faux or real, is backin throwback 70s shapes

GO FAUX!

Faux-fur coat, helmut lang, Rabbit-fur coat, a.p.c., Reversible lambskin coat, marc jacobs
$995, helmutlang.com $2,200, at A.P.C., NYC closed, $2,396, closed.com

Runway: Imaxtree.com; all coats: Richard Majchrzak/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents);
GO FAUX! GO FAUX!

remaining images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide
Shearling coat, yves salomon, Faux-fur coat, staud, Shearling coat, sandy liang, Faux-fur coat, diesel,
$3,620, at Yves Salomon, NYC $1,025, staud.clothing $3,600, collection at raremarket.com $598, diesel.com

WEAR IT WITH

A fisherman knit in an
unexpected hue
Wool-blend sweater,
eleven six, $645, collection
at net-a-porter.com
The best accessory:
(The illusion of) mile-long legs
Corduroy skirt, hilfiger
collection, $330, at select
Tommy Hilfiger stores nationwide
Plenty of Me Decade bling
Gold, black spinel, and
diamond pendant necklace,
david yurman, $2,550,
at David Yurman, NYC
UNDER
$20
Lean into the theme with a
fur-accented topper
Knit beanie, a new day,
$15, collection at Target
stores nationwide
Nothing says 70s
like a block-heeled,
knee-high suede boot
Calfskin boot, max mara,
$815, at Max Mara, Chicago

172
 LET LIFE IN
to your hair and your head
2017 P&G
 BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS
This season, the trusty puffer comes in every shade of the rainbow

Cotton puffer Nylon goose Nylon down-blend

coat, closed, down and feather coat, herno,
$550, collection at UNDER coat, tna for $585, at Herno,
Jill Roberts, L.A. $100 aritzia, $85, at NYC
Aritzia boutiques
nationwide

Pinko and Woolrich coats: courtesy of the designers; remaining images: Richard Majchrzak/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents); for details, see Shopping Guide
Cotton goose Silk puffer coat, Nylon-blend
down coat, ienki olivia von puffer coat,
ienki, $1,230, halle, $1,345, pinko, $643, at
collection at collection at net-a- Pinko, NYC
Barneys New York porter.com

Leather puffer Nylon-sateen Nylon puffer coat,

coat, off-white goose down and moncler, $1,375,
c/o virgil feather coat, lu at Moncler, NYC
abloh, $2,661, mei london,
off---white.com $470, lumei
london.com

Poly-taffeta Velour
Nylon puffer coat,
puffer coat,
UNDER puffer coat,
kendall + UNDER dkny sport,
$150 woolrich, $129, $149, at select
woolrich.com kylie, $350, $150 DKNY stores
collection at
nationwide
Saks Fifth
Avenue stores
nationwide

174
 PRESENTED BY

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We believe that true style and beauty starts from the insideit extends beyond fashion and the latest trends. Its about finding
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 BEAUTY SQUAD
Fall beauty is all about putting a personal spin on your favorite looks. From
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LIFE WITH A LIFT
#EATLIFEUP
 SHEARLING This staple leaves the ranch behind
UNDER
$150
Velour and faux-fur shearling
saint laurent jacket, lands end, $129,
landsend.com
FLORAL Lush botanicals make for an instant cold-weather pick-me-up
Jacquard coat with fur collar,
prada derek lam, $4,490,
at Derek Lam, NYC
BOUCL A cinched waist sexes up an undeniable classic
Wool-blend jacket,
erdem x h&m, $199, hm.com.
isabel marant Leather belt, american eagle
outfitters, $25, ae.com
180
Faux-suede shearling jacket,
kenneth cole, $235, similar
styles at kennethcole.com
Jacquard wool coat,
rebecca taylor, $895,
rebeccataylor.com
Cotton-blend jacket, rag & bone,
$995, rag-bone.com. Faux-leather
belt, simply vera vera wang,
$32, collection at kohls.com
UNDER
$75
Sherpa jacket, old navy, $70, at
Old Navy stores nationwide
Feather skirt, aje, $495, collection
Brocade coat, adam lippes,
$2,450, collection at
Forty Five Ten, Dallas
UNDER
$50
Cotton-blend jacket, a new day,
$40, collection at target.com.
Leather belt, maximum henry,
$95, maximumhenry.com
UNDER
$125
Runway: Imaxtree.com (3); Lands End, Kenneth Cole, Old Navy, Erdem x H&M, Rag & Bone, and A New Day jackets, Lisette L Montreal skirt, Derek Lam, Rebecca Taylor, and Adam Lippes coats,
and Michael Michael Kors pants: Richard Majchrzak/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents); remaining images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide
UNDER
$175
WEAR IT WITH
An on-trend slouchy boot
and a snug skirt add
weekday sophistication
Rayon-blend skirt, lisette l
montreal, $117, lisettel.com.
Leather boot, anne klein,
$150, anneklein.com
WEAR IT WITH
You cant back down from a coat
this bold, so pile on the plumes and
statement shoes
at Stanley Korshak, Dallas. Suede
pump, kate spade new york,
$328, katespade.com
WEAR IT WITH
Skinny trousers break up the
granny-chic matching set
Leather pants, michael
michael kors, $595,
michaelkors.com. Suede ankle
boot, tabitha simmons, $995,
tabithasimmons.com
 FEARLESS BEAUTY
Total hair repair and the freedom to style with confidence.

Discover more at Moroccanoil.com

ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y
CROP ROTATION
An abbreviated take on the blue-jean classic,
perfectly matched to high-waisted denim

Levis recycled-denim Denim jacket, denim x

jacket, re/done, $440, alexander wang, $395,
shopredone.com alexanderwang.com

Denim jacket, ksubi, Distressed-denim jacket,

$280, ksubi.com ei8ht dreams, $245,
eightdreams.com

Runway: Imaxtree.com; Re/Done, Denim x Alexander Wang, Ksubi, and Ei8ht Dreams jackets:
Richard Majchrzak/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents); remaining
images: courtesy of the designers; for details, see Shopping Guide
Denim jacket, Denim jacket, milly,
current/elliott, $650, at Milly, NYC
$368, currentelliott.com

UNDER
$100
Denim jacket, asos, Denim jacket, lagence, off-white
$79, asos.com $425, at LAgence, Beverly Hills

184
 EXPERT On model, bottom
left: Embroidered-

OPINION
tulle shirt, $495,
jeans, $425, both,
adam selman. On
ELLE Fashion Director model, right: Nylon
oxford, matthew
Samira Nasr talks shop with adams dolan, $530.

Mel Ottenberg, stylist to ELLE

cover star Rihanna
ELLE: What feels very of-the-moment?
MEL OTTENBERG: This is a great time to
experiment. Its all about a mix of oversize,
androgynous shapes with ultrafeminine Ottenberg and Nasr
bags and shoes. Spring for the ridiculous
shoe, not just the sexy shoe.
ELLE: What do you consider an absolute
fashion faux pas?
MO: I find the reality of low-rise pants to be
absolutely terrible. Where a stretch skinny
jean once felt like enough, its not anymore.
Im really into a waist and embroidery when
it comes to denim this season.
ELLE: What style essentials should every
woman own?
MO: A jacket and a sweater that change
your life when you put them on. And this
season, an oversize shirt.
ELLE: Who do you think has great style?
MO: I discovered Debbie Har-
ry at age three when she per- Cotton cashmereblend sweater,
formed on The Muppet Show, victor glemaud,
$400, collection at net-a-porter.com
and shes been my ultimate
style icon ever since.
ELLE: New designers currently
on your radar?
MO: I love supporting new tal-
ent! Check out Luar, PushBut-
Rihanna and ton, Nguyen Cong Tri, Victor
Ottenberg
Glemaud, and Toogood. Wool military beret, gosha
rubchinskiy x stephen jones, $135,
collection at doverstreetmarket.com

GAME CHANGERS Samira, our resident minimalist, vows to be more

courtesy of the designers (6); for details, see Shopping Guide

adventurous with her accessories this season. Here, three that made the grade.
Rihanna and Ottenberg: BFA Images; Ottenberg and Nasr:
Samira Nasr; runway: Imaxtree.com; remaining images:

This might be the most embellished shoe
ever: bells, ribbons, and embroidery! For day,
theyll dress up cuffed jeans and a sweater. For
evening, Id pair with a monochromatic blouse-
and-trouser comboto let the details shine.
Satin sandal, prada, at select Prada
boutiques nationwide
Im really feeling logos again, and this
throwback Dior reads more like an abstract
pattern than a portable billboard. Its the ideal
carry-everywhere size, and the understated
black and gray make it almost a neutral.
Canvas and calfskin handbag, dior, $2,500, at
Dior boutiques nationwide
I wouldnt wear a crystal-studded boot for
day, but its perfect for night. Stick a skinny
black jean into it, or wear it under a superlong
wide-leg trouser with just the toe peeking out.
Studded-velvet ankle boot, saint laurent
by anthony vaccarello, $1,295, at
Bergdorf Goodman, NYC

187
 mble 2017
Procter & Gam

DONT
PIT OUT
WHEN
YOU
STRESS
OUT.

Starworks Artists for Fiona Stiles Beauty; manicure by Emi Kudo at Opus Beauty
for Chanel; production assistance by Nick Trice; fashion assistant: Mark Paul
Hair by Ramsell Martinez at Lowe & Co for R+Co; makeup by Fiona Stiles at
Wool and cashmere sweater,
unravel, $1,157. Levis jeans,
from collection, $185. Gold
and yellow sapphire signet ring,
jessica biales, $2,500. Leather
brogues, churchs, $595. Her
own earrings and rings. For
details, see Shopping Guide.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
DAYMION MARDEL
Barro
STYLED BY YASHUA SIMMONS
COUNTRY
STRONG
American Mades
Sarah Wright hurdles
beyond movie tropes.
By Seth Plattner
In American Madethe story of a
real-life Louisiana pilot, Barry Seal
(Tom Cruise), from his days flying
for TWA to trafficking cocaine for
a Colombian cartel to serving as
an informant for the DEA in the
mid-80s34-year-old actress Sarah
Wright plays Seals beautiful better
half, Lucy. But rest assured: This
is no ordinary wife role. Rather,
Wrights Lucy is a BS-calling,
self-sufficient matriarch, navigating
her love for a man living a danger-
ous double life and her mama-bear
instincts to keep her family afloat
(and alive).
I grew up with strong southern
women like Lucy, says Wright,
who spent her youth in Horse Cave,
Kentucky, picking up rocks in a
tobacco field and feeding calves
before discovering acting in commu-
nity theater. After relocating to L.A.,
Wrightnow herself a mama bear
to a 4-year-old and a 14-month-old
landed a handful of supporting movie
and TV roles (The House Bunny; 21 &
Over; NBCs Marry Me). Then along
came American Made and an audition
with Cruise that lasted four hours.
[Director] Doug Liman and Tom
and I spent most of it talking about
my family and life in the South,
Wright says. I think they saw that
woman in me and thought I could
open it up and dig deeper. To hear
Cruise (who also executive produced)
tell it, Lucy is a great mother, and
she stood by Barry and shes a
survivorand so is Sarah. She under-
stood Lucy, so the character was
tailor-made for her. Sarah had the
power and talent to bring her to life.
189
 KING OF THE COURT
The sexes were battlingin tennis whites. Emma Stone and Steve Carell
take us back to an epic match that changed the balance.
By Ben Dickinson

From left: Cumming

in the drivers seat;
Stone and Carell;
prematch hoopla

B
attle of the Sexes is a spirited, fre-
quently funny drama whose signifi-
cance sneaks up on you in much the
same way as does its backdrop, a
polarized America beset by cultural ferment
and moral uncertainty. Its a contentious
time in which battles over womens rights
and equality are a running theme; in which a
presidential administrations legitimacy and
the nations self-confidence are being steadi-
ly eroded by a seemingly endless succession
of damaging revelations leaking out of Wash-
ington, DC; and in which a circuslike sport-
The directorial team of Jonathan Dayton
and Valerie Faris, whose chief successes to
date are the much more tight-focus gems
Little Miss Sunshine and Ruby Sparks, deft-
ly fill in the big-picture America that sur-
rounded Riggs and King in the run-up to the
Battle of the Sexesincluding the Equal
Rights Amendment struggle, Roe v. Wade,
and Watergate. But Dayton and Faris also
vividly evoke the gloriously cheesy colors,
flavors, and sounds of American pop culture
on the cusp of the disco era, a time that now
seems greasy and seamyand also blessed
gambler who combined dorky authentici-
ty with a streak of raffish, self-deprecating
irreverence? Well, Steve Carell was born for
the role, and he aces it.
Add in Sarah Silverman, wonderfully caus-
tic as the extennis star and feminist warrior
Gladys Heldman, who spearheaded the cre-
ation of the Womens Tennis Association (for
which all involved were briefly banished from
the U.S. Tennis Association); Elisabeth Shue,
quietly moving as Riggss semi-estranged
wife, whom she plays with physical and emo-
tional eloquence; and Alan Cumming, cool-

ing event pitching man against woman could
assume larger-than-life proportions.
No, were not talking about this past sum-
mer; Battle of the Sexes takes place 44 years
ago, in 1973, when 55-year-old former mens
tennis champ and self-proclaimed Number
One Male Chauvinist Pig Bobby Riggs chal-
lenged the top players on the womens circuit
to a match, arguing that beating them would
prove the general superiority of men and re-
turn women to their proper place. After he
beat top-ranked Australian Margaret Court
in a Mothers Day Massacre, Riggs suc-
cessfully goaded Billie Jean King, also at the
top of her game, to play him in Houstons As-
trodome for a $100,000 prize (hey, that was
real money back thenmore than $500,000
in todays dollars).
with a kind of carefree innocence.
Carefree would be the furthest thing from
King, who clambered to the top of her sport
with husband Larry in tow but realized right
around the time of her entanglement with
Riggs that she was irrefutably attracted to
womena reality that could, with one care-
less revelation, doom her career. And who is it
who so persuasively portrays this manifest-
ly guarded woman, who characteristically
crouches behind sensible eyeglasses and a
jet-black mane with bangs? Why itsthe
eternally pixieish Emma Stone, who handily
pulls off this mind-bending transformation
(and is wonderfully believable as she falls in
love with a hairdresser, played with glow-
ing perfection by up-and-comer Andrea
Riseborough). As for Riggsa compulsive
From left: Melinda Sue Gordon (2); courtesy of Fox Searchlight Pictures
ly puckish as Ted Tinling, dress designer to
the womens tennis stars, who sees through
Kings married-woman act as if it were
an embarrassingly sheer nightdress. Times
change, he says to King at a crucial moment.
You should know you just changed them.
And Battle of the Sexes shows us just how
much times have changed, despite all. Sure,
John McEnroe recently asserted offhandedly
that Serena Williams would be ranked about
700th in the world if she played mens tennis;
and the now-elderly church minister Marga-
ret Court just raised a stink, and many hack-
les, by slamming Qantas Airlines for publicly
supporting same-sex unions. But Billie Jean
King won. And found love with a woman.
And her last words to Riggs, as he lay dying
of prostate cancer in 1995, were I love you.

190
 toyota.com/camry
Prototype shown with options. Production model may vary. 2017 Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.

DIRECTORS SPOTLIGHT
DOMESTIC DISTURBANCE
The ever-intense Darren Aronofsky concocts a chilling puzzle
of a movie and dares you to find your way out
Over the past two decades, Darren Aronofsky
has churned out a series of dark, brainy dra-
mas (Pi, Requiem for a Dream, The Wrestler,
Black Swan) that have earned wide acclaim
and marked him as a director who adheres to
a work ethic of uncompromising meticulous-
ness and obsessive detail. All of my films
up to this point, he says, the screenwriting
process and the making of them has taken
many, many years.
But his chilling, disorienting new thrill-
er, the idiosyncratically titled mother!, is a
departure: I actually wrote this film in five
days, he says. I sat at my desk in my under-
wear and pounded it out. I barely sleptit just
poured out of me. The story is set entirely in
a boxy clapboard mansion smack in the mid-
dle of a pastoral nowheresville, and it begins
as a languorous, romantic idyll deux: Javier
Bardem, at his smoldering best, is an eminent
poet with a past wrapped in mystery; Jennifer
Lawrence is his new bride, anxious to help
him break a nasty case of writers block and
return to artistic prominence.
You may think youve seen this movie
before (you can almost see Bardem scrib-
bling All work and no play make Jack a dull
Lawrence and
Aronofsky
on set
192
Bardem and
TRUST US
Lawrence
FLIGHT RISK
Marking Tom Cruises best performance in a
decade, American Made is a zany, shaggy-
dog story based on actual events, energized
onscreen by director Doug Liman (The Bourne
Identity). An antic Cruise plays pilot Barry
Seal, who gets entangled with the CIA, the
Clockwise from bottom left: Niko Tavernise/Paramount Pictures (2); David James/Universal Pictures; Marc Schmidt/A24; David Appleby/Twentieth Century Fox
Nicaraguan contras, and a Colombian cartel,
while his spirited wife (Sarah Wright; see page
189), at least, survives with sanity intact.
boy, over and over); rest assured, you have
not. Within minutes, a mysterious couple (a
wobbly, erratic Ed Harris and a supremely
witchy Michelle Pfeiffer) appear at the door
in need of lodging, and all hell breaks loose.
The ensuing 90 minutes or so swirl into an
allegorical deliriuma kind of roller-coaster
tour of the collective unconscious, perhaps,
or a master class in archetypal mythsthat
never for a minute allows you to find your
BLEAK HOUSES
footing and feel like you know whats going Indie director Sean Baker, a critical darling
on or what will happen next. (Tangerine), bests himself with The Florida
I got Jennifer and Javier to agree to give Project, which drops us into the lives of folks
me about three months of rehearsal, which who live hand to mouth in flophouse motels
just outside Disney World. A film that stars a
is kind of unheard of, Aronofsky says. We six-year-old (the amazing Brooklynn Prince)
rented a big warehouse out in Brooklyn and in peril could go all kinds of wrong, but
taped out the whole set and actually preshot thanks to a watchful mensch (Willem Dafoe),
the entire film for two weeks while I worked an achingly ambivalent deliverance results.
out the basic moves. The pacing and the
claustrophobic atmosphere are unrelenting.
There are no wide shots in the entire film,
Aronofsky points out. The whole time
youre with Jeneither on Jens face, over
her shoulder, or what shes looking at. So fig-
uring out how to make a visual language, a
film, out of that was a real challenge.
And Lawrences over-the-top performance
stays with you, like a spectral afterimage that
you turn over in your mindnow one way,
now another. Its both magnificently sim- CHILDHOODS END
Domhnall Gleeson and Margot Robbie
ple and all-encompassing. For me, says bravely play profoundly flawed parents in
Aronofsky, more than a little mischievously Goodbye Christopher Robin, which loosely
(especially given the fact that he and J.Law tells how Winnie-the-Poohs English inventor,
have since become romantically involved), A. A. Milne, embroidered on his sons
imaginative life in his beloved booksand
the film works as a relationship movie on then permitted a maelstrom of publicity and
one levelheres a couple that has some is- commercial success to obliterate the fragile
sues, and then things happen.B.D. blessings of family happiness.B.D.
 long on protection for even the shortest of shorts.

UP
TO 1
LEAK-FREE
%
PERIODS
Wear what you want.
Procter & Gamble, Inc., 2017
 ing blue and pink fire opal. She also wears
thin gold bracelets, a gold watch, a necklace,
and dangling moonstone earrings, but the
effect is less showy than quietly exuberant.
Krauss herself is quietly exuberant, and her
mood has seeped into the book. Ive never
written about myself so directly, she says.
The last four years were my largest study
in freedom, with all its pains and fears and
difficulties, but also all its huge exuberance
and delight and pleasure.
She usually is engaging in interviews,
but today she is aglow. Shes found a new
form for her fiction. Shes been taking a
dance class called Gaga a few times a week,
which emphasizes sensuality, pleasure, and
strength; when I talk to its creator, the cho-
reographer Ohad Naharin (whom Krauss
met and befriended in Tel Aviv at one of
his companys performances), he calls her
groovy. In many ways, Krauss is the best
advertisement for divorce I have ever seen.
Part of her enduring literary appeal is
that each new book feels just thatnewas
though shes breaking up with a former self.
In Forest Dark, which takes its name from the
opening lines of Longfellows translation of
Dantes InfernoMidway upon the journey
of our life/I found myself within a forest
dark,/for the straightforward pathway had
been lostKrausss form and content align.

ADAPTATION
The novel opens with Jules Epstein, a wealthy
ex-lawyer in his late sixties who has recently
divorced his longtime wife. After a lifetime
New Yorker Nicole Krauss, just out with Forest Dark, her excellent predicated upon his own self-assurance and
autofictional novel, is trying new things in life, love, and literature. the accumulation of wealth, Epstein is now
She makes change look extremely appealing. By Keziah Weir bent on divesting himself of his millions.
Next we meet the young Brooklyn novelist in
Theres always something baffling about (her best novel, and her others were great, it an authorial and marital slump. In our own
having aspects of your life told publicly, not should be said right now) is narrated by an ways, we had each come to understand that
by you, and in ways that are so far from the unhappily married 39-year-old author and we had lost faith in our marriage, she mus-
truth, Nicole Krauss says, sitting at a table mother of twowhos named Nicole, but es. And yet we didnt know how to act on this
in the sunny back corner of a now-shuttered only once does her name appear in the novel; understanding, as one does not know how to
French Hungarian bistro in Brooklyn called the rest of the time, shes Iand Krausss act on the understanding, for example, that
Cafe Dada. At some point, you can only own divorce has been a subject of titillation the afterlife does not exist. In alternating
laugh and drop your hands and just think of in the likes of Gawker and the New York tab- chapters, both characters embark upon solo
it as theater. loids since 2014. Her ex-husband and the fa- adventures that take them from their homes
At age 43, Krauss is the author of three ther of her two young sons is the novelist Jon- in New York to the Tel Aviv Hilton: Epstein
acclaimed novelsMan Walks Into a Room athan Safran Foer, whose best-selling debut, searches for a cause to donate to in memo-
(2002), The History of Love (2005), and Great Everything Is Illuminated (published when he ry of his parents, while Nicole finds herself
House (2010)along with several New Yorker was 25), and subsequent perpetual success embroiled in a literary heist involving a mys-
short stories and the just-released, intimate- have nonetheless earned him widespread terious family acquaintance named Eliezer
ly personal novel, Forest Dark (Harper). She opprobrium, dubbed Schadenfoer by one Friedman and the secret, unpublished work
has also, over the past decade and change, wag. Krauss has barely talked about her mar- of Franz Kafka. Fans of Krausss previous
found herself in a place writers rarely inhabit: riage in the past, let alone its demise. novels will likely search for the link between
the gossipy limelight. She arrives wearing a simple sleeveless the two central characters; without giving
Goni Riskin

I know that I have to ask her about the ob- black dress, her nearly black hair loose and anything away, the narratives share comple-
vious similarities between her own recent life long. Her hands, which she uses expressively, mentary themes, and the careful reader will
story and the books plot. Half of Forest Dark are dotted with ringsone is set with a strik- be rewarded by a beautiful baton pass toward

194
the novels end that reveals Epstein and Ni-
coles connection.
Forest Darka study in storytelling, in
Jewishness and representation, in how we
come to define ourselvesis, in many ways,
characteristically Krauss. But it also delves
into refreshing new territory, including a
deft handling of truly mind-bending meta-
physical concepts: a cosmic multiverse
in which nearly anything is possible and a
story line about Kafka that will have readers
questioning their understanding of truth.
Theres something that happens when you
decide to very deliberately leave behind a form
that you had assumed for many years, very
religiouslymarriage, being a wife. There is
a certain sense of power that comes with it,
the author says. Suddenly you remember
that you have an extraordinary amount of
control over who you are and how you live.
Since her separation from Foer, Krauss says,
shes been in a relationship with 32-year-old
Israeli journalist and novelist Gon Ben Ari,
whom she met during the Jerusalem Writ-
ers Festival in 2008. It turned into a long-
lasting friendship, as I spent a lot of time in
New York for my work, and she in Israel for
hers, Ben Ari writes in an e-mail. My ap-
preciation of her writing just grew as I saw her
take larger and larger risks with it. Krauss
says that Ben Ari has been one of her first
readers for the last decade: Daily, I have con-
versations with him that are, I dont know
she searches for the wordan expansion.
This is a very different Krauss from the one
who, in 2005, responded to a journalists
question about her husbands success with
that subject Im not talking about. Could
you blame her? Since their marriage in
2004, Krauss has published two best-selling
novels and secured two massive book deals:
two books each; one for six figures, the oth-
er for a rumored seven. Yet an inordinate
amount of ink has been dedicated to the
particulars of her marriage. When, in 2005,
the couple published their second novels
around a month apart and also purchased a
7,670-square-foot, six-bedroom limestone
townhouse in Park Slope, Brooklyn, the New
York Sun interviewed a slew of unabashed-
ly jealous fellow Brooklyn writers, some of
whom would go on to pen their own peevish
hot takes and reviews: The editor of New
York Press called Foer so precious, over-
the-top, and Krauss not much better.
Her novels were often picked over for signs
of similarity to Foers. Did Krauss learn to
be cute from her husband, wrote Entertain-
ment Weekly in 2005, both of whose books
seem somewhat desperate to amuse?
When the couple listed their house for $14.5
million in 2013, New York magazine deemed
them the too-successful-to-stomach physi-
cal embodiment of literary Brooklyn.
Less than eight months later, the New
York Posts Page Six reported that Krauss
and Foer had quietly separated around the
time they put the house on the market. In
2016, a tabloid site launched a gossipy ru-
mor that their divorce was precipitated by
Foers unrequited love for Natalie Portman.
Later that year, in a coy attempt to dispel the
speculation, Foer profiled Portman for the
New York Times style magazine, T, by way of
a series of long e-mails about such subjects
as the actresss directorial debut and a game
Foer invented for his children called Won-
der Line, in which they must tell him five
things that generate wonder if they wish to
choose their after-dinner entertainment. By
that time, he was dating Michelle Williams.
His first novel in a decade, Here I Am (2016),
is a nearly 600-page epic on the imagined
fall of Israel juxtaposed with the collapse of
the protagonists marriage after his wife dis-
covers his sexts with a coworker. The books
plot, Foer stated in multiple interviews, was
not influenced by his own divorce.
Krauss says that if she could have pub-
lished her books with authorial anonymi-
ty, la Elena Ferrante, she would have. But arship. She wanted to be a poet, and in 2000
when you live next to somebody whos a she published two poems (one was called
public figure, you have a lot less choice about
how your story is told. She doesnt use Twit-
ter, Instagram, or Facebook. And though she
still lives in Brooklyn, she doesnt consider
herself part of its thriving literary scene (an-
other reason, perhaps, for some public ire:
There are few things more irritating than
being judged not interesting). In Brook-
lyn, I dont feel particularly excited by or
drawn to the social world around me, she
says. While her parents raised Krauss and
her siblingsan older brother and a younger
sisterprimarily in a Bauhaus-style home
on Long Island, her parents and grandpar-
ents hail from, variously, England, Israel,
Germany, Ukraine, Belarus, and Hungary.
Krausss maternal grandmother was an Or-
thodox Jew who escaped from a Polish tran-
sit camp on the last Kindertransport boat
before World War II, and there are tragic
Holocaust losses on both sides of Krausss
family. There were frequent trips to visit
relatives in Tel Aviv, and what Krauss calls
an urgency to how her parents (who kept
a kosher home but did not observe Shabbat)
raised her and her siblings as Jews in Amer-
ica, equally born of defensiveness as of at-
tachment and pride. She says they never
really taught us to have roots or a deep asso-
ciation with this place.
As an undergraduate at Stanford, Krauss
studied poetry with Nobel laureate Joseph
Brodsky; she received a masters in art his-
tory from Oxford while on a Marshall Schol-
The Nostalgia of Descartes) in the Paris
Review. But poetic perfection became claus-
trophobic: I just wanted to break something,
and open it, and be messy, she says. Man
Walks Into a Room, which centers on a man
with amnesia and which she wrote in a year
at age 25, became that broken, open thing.
That it earned praise from the New Yorker
and Entertainment Weekly alike proved em-
blematic of the kind of widespread appeal
each of her books would engenderwhile
intelligent, intellectual, and arguably high-
brow, her woven-together, multiperspective
style is also highly readable.
Major life changes catalyzed each of her
following novels: The History of Lovea sto-
ry about an old man named Leo Gursky
who wrote a book about the woman he lost
(though not to death) amid the horrors of
WWII, and a young girl named Alma who
was named after every female character in
that bookwas an experiment in widening
perspective; Great House, written after the
birth of her second son, came out of this
obsession with a fear of what gets passed on
195

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to children. Each book, she says, was so
representative of a mood and a period and a
problem. Something lodged in my chest that
needed to be dissolved by addressing it over a
long period of time.
One of Krausss major preoccupations
since beginning Forest Dark is a question of
freedom, her understanding of which has
shifted radically over the last four years. The
moment she realized she could get a divorce,
she says, was the moment I understood that,
given a choice between teaching my children
two thingsone, its important to stay bound
to something you are committed to rather
than hurt anyone else; two, giving them the
example of what it is to live always toward
your freedom and your happiness and your
larger sense of selfthere was no question.
Obviously the latter. Obviously thats what
I wanted to show them. That both central
characters in Forest Dark are shedding a for-
mer life is no surprise.
Personal freedom isnt the only liberation
shes embracing. Krauss has also shaken off
a long-held sense that the most command-
ing literary voice is a masculine one. A 2005
New York Times review of The History of Love
somewhat snidely describes her as one of
fictions dutiful daughters, citing her long
list of male influences, which range from
the aforementioned Kafka to Isaac Babel.
Krauss acknowledges that her early reading
diet was male-dominated and that, indeed,
she often feels more comfortable writing
from a male perspective. Starting out as
a young woman writer, it was abundantly
evident to me that I would have to try ex-
tremely hard, much harder than my male
counterparts, to gain authority in my writ-
ing, she says. She wasnt wrong. Her books,
despite being critically acclaimed and lib-
erally awarded, are still often described as
lovely. (Books by important male authors,
she notes, are never called lovely. Theyre
called strong and brilliant.) When she stories have all been about young women,
was 27, at a magazine photo shoot for a re-
view of Man Walks Into a Room, she had to
fight a stylist who wanted her to wear a low-
cut dress. After theyd finally settled on a
white button-down, just before the photog-
rapher took his shot, the stylist leapt forward
196
and unbuttoned the shirt. Its hard to imag-
ine Jonathan Franzen, or Krausss longtime
friend Philip Roth (who calls Forest Dark
brilliant), in a similar position. While it
may have been subliminal, its unsurprising
that her first book, Man Walks Into a Room,
centers on the intellectual travails of a male
Columbia professor, with whom the pre-
dominantly male arbiters of literary integri-
ty would have easily identified. As the Times
noted in that same History of Love review,
You dont win the Nobel Prize for writing
about the inner lives of 14-year-old girls.
It was only within the last five years that
Krauss realized her tastes had shifted, that
the books most impressive to her of late are
by women. The novelist Rachel Cusk (Out-
line: A Novel), known for her own blending
of autobiography with fiction, is a particular
favorite. We wont name names, Krauss
says, but there are so many male writers
and some are wonderful writerswhotake
many hundreds of pages to say what they
feel and think, because theyre naturally giv-
en that right. [Women writers] come from a
position of having to grab it. As the novelist
Meg Wolitzer wrote in a 2012 piece for the
Times on the separate, unwritten rules for lit-
erary fiction by men and women: Does the
marketplace subtly and paradoxically seem
to whisper in some mens ears, Sure, buddy,
run on as long as you like, just sit down and
type out all your ideas about America...?
Forest Dark, which clocks in at a satisfying
but relatively slight 304 pages, demonstrates
the merits of discipline.
Krauss, who describes herself as not
a five-year planner, is happily unsure of
what the future holds. Shed like to keep
traveling, far and often. Right now, shes
working on a book of short stories. Things
are creeping in that I dont let creep into my
novelsor maybe its just a new place in my
mind, I dont knowbut the last couple of
she says. While Forest Darks Jules Epstein
is a fantastically rich character, its Krausss
fictionalized avatar who ends up in control
of the narrative. She says, Its this open-
ing of some new confidence, writing about
women who are closer to me.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION
(CONTINUED)
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symptoms, or if you become dizzy or faint.
Do not take BOTOX Cosmetic if you:
are allergic to any of the ingredients in
BOTOX Cosmetic (see Medication Guide
for ingredients); had an allergic reaction
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such as Myobloc(rimabotulinumtoxinB),
Dysport(abobotulinumtoxinA), or
Xeomin(incobotulinumtoxinA); have a
skin infection at the planned injection site.
Tell your doctor about all your muscle
or nerve conditions, such as ALS or
Lou Gehrigs disease, myasthenia gravis,
or Lambert-Eaton syndrome, as you
may be at increased risk of serious side
effects including difficulty swallowing and
difficulty breathing from typical doses of
BOTOX Cosmetic.
Tell your doctor about all your medical
conditions, including: plans to have
surgery; had surgery on your face;
weakness of forehead muscles: trouble
raising your eyebrows; drooping eyelids;
any other abnormal facial change; are
pregnant or plan to become pregnant (it is
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Tell your doctor about all the medicines
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Tell your doctor if you have received any
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or Xeomin in the past (tell your doctor
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take muscle relaxants; take an allergy or
cold medicine; take a sleep medicine; take
aspirin-like products or blood thinners.
Other side effects of BOTOX Cosmetic
include: discomfort or pain at the injection
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vision, blurred vision, drooping eyelids, and
Go with your own glow
swelling of your eyelids.
For more information refer to the
Medication Guide or talk with your doctor.
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This month, the good, the bad, the ugly, the funnyand Joni. By Lisa Shea
BOTH SIDES NOW: Joni Mitchell
fans, youre in for a good month.
Legendary music critic and
archivist Barney Hoskynss
Joni: The Anthology (Picador)
is a comprehensive, sensitive
compilation of profiles, inter-
views, and concert reviews from
Mitchells nearly 50-year career.
Reckless Daughter: A Portrait of
Joni Mitchell (Sarah Crichton
Books, above), by David Yaffe, is
an intimate bio of Mitchell, who
cooperated with the author, and
includes interviews with Joan
Baez, Leonard Cohen, David
Crosby, and more. I did love,
to the best of my ability, and
sometimes, for a while, it was
reciprocated, Mitchell says of
the theme of heartbreak in her
songs. And sometimes the per-
son was too far gone on drugs or
whateverthey were incapable.
FUNNY GIRL: Fans of 2 Broke
Girls can switch off their devices
and read this funny, raunchy,
feminist memoir from comic,
actress, writer, and director
Whitney Cummings. A moment
from Im Fineand Other Lies
(Putnam): Why do I have to
freeze my eggs when guys can
have kids well into their sixties? I
was so outraged by the biological
injustice that I refused to make
the appointment for two years. I
made childish proclamations to
justify my stubbornness. Ill
TRUST US: BOOKS
just adopt. So many kids need
homes. At this point, having
your own kid is basically like
buying a dog from a breeder. daunting. As one of the only
HISTORY REPEATS ITSELF: The
title of Ta-Nehisi Coatess book
of essays, some of which you
may know (Fear of a Black
President; The Case for
Reparations) and some of them
new, comes from the lament
of Reconstruction-era black
politicians and intellectuals in
the late 1800s as white suprema-
cists gained control of the South.
We Were Eight Years in Power: An
American Tragedy (One World)
is a history of the Obama era, a
time that now seems so far away.
SHE LOST THE BATTLE BUT MAY
BE THE TURNING POINT IN THE
WAR: Ellen Pao, the tech exec
whogaspsued her former
employer, venture capital firm
Kleiner Perkins, for sexual
discrimination, lost her suit. But
in going public, she prompted a
massive discussion, including
confessions from other women
with experiences similar to hers
and corporate soul-searching
about sexism in Silicon Valley.
Her book about what really
happened, Reset: My Fight for
Inclusion and Lasting Change
(Spiegel & Grau), gets down
and dirty about the culture she
was in, but also the loneliness
of being a woman in her field: for publicly diagnosing Donald
I found the number of things I Trump with narcissistic personal-
was supposed to be extremely ity disorder (theyre not supposed
to do that kind of thing), is now
women or people of color in a scolding us for our selfishness,
workplace, youre trying to do our denial, and our wishful
so many things at once. Youre thinking at the expense of our
trying to be fun so they like you. childrens, countrys, and planets
You want to be humble, but you future. Weve brought this pres-
want to be confident. No matter ident upon ourselves, he writes.
how hard I worked, I couldnt Trump is sort of a plot point in
figure out a way to succeed. our existential survival: His pres-
ence will either spur us to reform
ITS NOT TRUMP, ITS US: From ourselves and our societyor
the guy who literally wrote the itll speed along our demise. Part
book (as in the DSM) on mental political rant (Trump, Tribalism,
health disorders comes Twilight and the Attack on Democracy
of American Sanity: A Psychia- is one chapter title), part self-
trist Analyzes the Age of Trump help (Why We Make Such Bad
(William Morrow). Allen Fran- Decisions is another), this is
ces, MD, a renowned clinician an unusual and important book
who in February scolded other about our responsibility for the
mental health professionals mess were in.
AND NOW FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT
Devotions: The Selected Poems of Mary Oliver (Penguin) is a gorgeous
explanation of and antidote to the noise of our times. Oliver herself
chose the 200-plus works included here. From her poem October:
Theres this shape, black as the entrance to a cave.
A longing wells up in its throat
like a blossom
as it breathes slowly.
What does the world
mean to you if you cant trust it
to go on shining when
youre not there?
199
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 BEAUTY

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201
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Jonathan Simkhai: courtesy of the designer; Giambattista Valli, Eudon Choi, Chlo, and Elisabetta Franchi: Imaxtree.com; Akech: Instagram; Shakespeare: Getty Images
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202
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 ITS COOL TO CARE
No one wakes up like this. From Technicolor-strewn tendrils to quite possibly
the worlds most lustrous blow-out, hair this time was momentous

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It looked like the models had been
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Versace, Blumarine, and Issey Miyake (2): Imaxtree.com; Gucci: Getty Images
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204
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 GONE IN 30 SECONDS THE NAME GAME
The opulence of these makeup and nail looks belies the blip Blingy letters spelling Marc
of time it takes to create them at home Jacobs across models nails
at the designers show was
more than a funky flourish
(and a riff on the perpetual
craze that is the nameplate
necklace). It was an homage
to hip-hop culture, in which
self-aggrandizement is cele-
brated, says manicurist Jin
Soon Choi, who used custom
letter decals atop Marc Jacobs
polish in Blacquer for max vis-
ibility. For a DIY version, Choi
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and getting political: Id
write Equality, she says,
four letters on each hand!
Cushnie Abigail Mia necklace,
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Adding a simple element of
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Makeup artist Inge Grognard
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and rough, Grognard Marc Jacobs
says. Thats rock.

LET IT SHINE! drainage and allow

Imaxtree.com; Marc Jacobs, Erin Fetherston, and Jennifer Zeuner necklace:

bone structure to sing,
Highlighter is certain- she says. Backstage at

Vivetta, Cushnie et Ochs, Emilio Pucci, Isabel Marant, and Nicholas K:

ly having a moment, Nicholas K, Karuna
but in the wake of its skin care founder
holographic gleam Linda Wang applied a
comes a swerve back Karuna Hydrating+
to a more natural Face Mask (1) for 10
grade of glow, evi- minutes before tamp-
denced by a number ing in the remaining
of shows this season infusion of plumping 1
with skin-care brand peptides and Chi-
Isabel Marant sponsors. At Erin nese licorice extract.
Fetherston, makeup With models skin
artist Kelli Bartlett sufficiently primed at
courtesy of the designers

Nicholas K
massaged models fac- Isabel Marant, makeup
es with Skyn Iceland expert Lisa Butler
Arctic Face Oil (2), pressed light-reflecting
taking special care to Pai Buriti Balm (3)
Erin Fetherston smooth out the cheeks along the high points
to help with lymphatic of the face. 2 3

206
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 THE MVPS OF VIPS
Shades can be melded to match complexions and leave-ins cocktailed to define any
number of coifs, but theres nothing like having that one miracle product that perfects
without any adjustment. Here, the secret weapons that four models of color swear by
CONCEAL ZEAL
I hardly use foundationmy
go-to is Bobbi Brown Inten-
sive Skin Serum, says model
Mayowa Nicholas of her
preference for spot-treating
with the concealer obsession
that she swipes under her eyes
(in the Golden
shade) to soften
dark circles be-
fore charging the
catwalk.
CURL CRED
The fact that a wide variety of
hair textures have made their way
down the runways the past few sea-
sons has given catwalker Samile
Bermannelli even more reason to
stay au naturel. To make her soft
kinks as lustrous as possible for
showtime, she washes daily with
TRESemm Botanique Nourish
and Replenish Shampoo. The co-
conut and aloe leave my hair light
and loose, but defined, she says.
208
PERFECT PALETTE
Conversely, model Riley
Montana usually steers clear of
concealerIts a bit heavy, she
saysbut finds that Becca Aqua
Luminous Perfecting Foundation
in Dark Golden not only cam-
ouflages spots but imbues her
complexion with a
touch of radiance,
courtesy of the
formulas crushed-
pearl complex.
Could Samile
Bermannellis
curls be any more
luxurious?
READY, SET, GLOW
No hyperbole is too great
when Amilna Estevao gets
started talking about Glossier window and sipping
Haloscope Highlighter. It
gives me life! she says of the
sticks dew-drenching powers,
whichno small thingalso
looks spectac-
ular gleaming
up areas like the
collarbone and
shoulders.
WHERE IT GIRLS
GET THEIR FIX
MODELS POWER UP
AT THESE SNAZZY,
CAFFEINATED PIT STOPS
BELLA HADID
Everyman Espresso
136 East 13th Street,
New York, NY 10003
Nothings better than
taking a perch at the
a frothy cortado
between airy bites of
financier (its a French
almond cake, and the
ones at Everyman,
Hadids choice coffee
Hadid and Borges: Getty Images; Everyman Espresso and Serengeti Teas & Spices: Samantha Klaasen, Brandi Longfrank,
joint, are to.die.for.).
and Joi Wade; Nicholas, Estevao, and Bermannelli: GoRunway.com; Montana: Everett Collection/Alamy Stock Photo
MARIA BORGES
Serengeti
Teas & Spices
2292 Frederick
Douglass Boulevard,
New York, NY 10027
On lazy days,
Borges holes up
at West African tea
mecca Serengeti to
swill iced herbal
elixirs, such as the
Serengeti Sunrise,
an antioxidant-rich
blend of hibiscus,
agave, and turmeric,
or a bracingly gingery
Vanilla Rose Chai.
 New brushed
metal finish gleams
with sophistication.
Now mattes ignite.

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#MATTEMETALLICS
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Herieth is wearing New Color Sensational Matte Metallics in Serpentine.

2017 Maybelline LLC.
 EDITOR OBSESSIONS
From contemporary masterpieces to islands in the Caribbean, ELLEs
beauty team share their current objects of fascinationand the scents,
serums, and shimmers theyve come to embrace as a result

FIREFLIES
April Long
Executive Beauty Editor
I love watching fireflies do
their magical flashdance,
and I plan on channeling
them all season: Josie Maran
Argan Moonstone Drops (1)
impart a hint of evening-light
pearlescence to skin. A sweep
of RMS Beautys Luminizer X
Quad (2) across cheekbones,
and Im lit from within. Clar-
ins lip oil (3) adds a flicker of
liquid lightning. ELIZABETH PEYTON
Cotton Codinha
Beauty and Fitness Editor
Theres something about the
louche beauty of Peytons
portraits of young men: Cover
FX Custom Enhancer drops
(1) conjure the bookish hue of

Fireflies: Getty Images; boats: Getty Images; Clary Collection oil: Devon Jarvis/Studio D; Elizabeth Peyton: Amazon
JAMAICA the vitaminDdeficient. This
1 2 3 Megan ONeill Poppy and Someday stain (2)
Senior Beauty and Fitness Editor replicates the tintnot the
Its not just the endless sun and textureof chapped lips. The
life-loving vibes that make Jamai- smoky leather scent of Here-
ca pure magic, its the bounty of tic Poltergeist (3) all but seeps
aromas and colors: Coffee grounds 1
through the frame.
from the Blue Mountains in Island
Joy Naomis Foot Scrub (1) smooth
my feet into extravagant softness.
The plantain extracts in Clary
Collection Bath + Body Oil (2) give
me gleam (and remind me of my
Jamaican mothers fried plantains).
Cte polishes in Nos. 115 and 116 (3)
match the countrys flag (and look
killer at the beach). 2 3 1 2 3

SUPER NATURALS dry, irritable skin, Tammy Fender

1 2
3 4
Emily Dougherty Spontaneous Recovery Crme (2)
Beauty and Fitness Director has replaced Rx retinol in my rou-
These green machines prove tine. Josh Rosebrooks soothing,
that Mother Nature doesnt mess zinc-based Nutrient Day Cream
around: The matcha-based, SPF 30 (3) makes me look forward
#oddlysatisfying Odacit Green to applying sunscreen each morn-
Ceremony cleanser (1) bursts into ing. Butter-soft and high-beam
a silky, bright green foam when it bright, Burts Bees Scarlet Soaked
hits water. Shockingly effective on lipstick (4) doubles as a blush.

210
 MY

STEAL
THE SHOW HAIR
24H HOLD
ULTRA FINE MIST.
WORK IT
 2015 paper in the Journal of Aesthetic Plastic
Surgery that found drooping lobes contrib-
uted to making a person appear more tired,
older, and generally less attractive. Ger-
aghty uses Juvderm to plump up anemic
ears. We can give a youthful curvature to
the earlobe, plus fullness and support.

TEMPLE UNIVERSITY: A SAFER

WAY TO FILL UP
For years, those suffering from resting
bitch face have relied on injectables to ap-
pear kinder and gentler: Botox to soften the
elevens (those vertical lines above the
nose that make you look like youre frown-
ing) or a touch of filler at the temples to
treat the shadow that can make a person
look angry, says NYC dermatologist Ellen
Marmur, MD. (This also makes the eyes
look bigger, brighter, and wider.) Doctors
had been doing this off-label, but in 2015 the
FDA warned that inexperienced injectors
could hit one of the blood vessels in the tem-
ple, leading to irreversible blindness. Mar-
mur has developed a protocol, soon to be
presented at the American Academy of Der-
matologys annual conference, for tweaking
the temple without endangering the blood
vessels: The key is injecting very deep,
which lifts all the layersmuscle, fat, and
skintogether. Want to know if your doc
has learned the technique? Marmur sug-
gests cross-checking your derm on aad.org
or asds.net, as well as asking a few ques-
tions: How many temples has your doctor
injected; what are the two most common
side effects of injecting in this area (bruise-
like pain for two days and swelling); and
how much filler does the average person
need (around 1.5 milliliters per side)? If

NEW FRONTIERS the doctor cant answer you, Marmur says,

perhaps they are not experienced enough.
Forget forever young. The new name of the game is aging
gracefully. And thanks to a spate of new products and FULL SERVICE: AN INJECTABLE
technologyfrom wrinkle removers that actually let you smile FOR EVERY NEED
When injectables first came into the mar-
to fat blasters for the subtlest of smoothingthat objective is
Anna Dabrowska/thelicensingproject.com
ket a decade ago, they were just designed to
more attainable than ever. By Megan Deem fill lines, says Manhattan dermatologist
Joshua Zeichner, MD. Now we have so
GOLDEN LOBES: HOLLYWOODS to aging) and cause Noor Fares wings to many specialized hyaluronic acid inject-
NEWEST SPOT TREATMENT droop or Jemma Wynne solitaires to point ables, from thick to thin, flexible to stiff,
We can thank the trend of ear parties in wonky directions. Studies have shown that we can target almost any particular
(those constellations of earrings that dance that if your earlobes look saggy, droopy, need. Looking for a plumper with espe-
up the sides of each ear) for alerting us to and kind of aged, it can negatively impact cially long-lasting results? The newest to
an entirely new body part about which to how others perceive you, says Laurel Nav- get FDA approval is Juvderm Vollure XC,
have a complexour lobes: specifically, ersen Geraghty, MD, a dermatologist in which studies have shown can fill smile
those that are too thin (due to genetics or Medford, Oregon, citing research such as a lines for up to a year and a half, thanks to

212
How to make your stubborn
makeup leave without a fight.
Neutrogena Makeup Remover

Cleansing Towelettes
Removes 99.3% of your most
stubborn makeup.

Every night, instantly lift away your most

budge-proof, smudge-proof makeup.
(Waterproof mascara, that means you, too.)

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makeup artists.
J&JCI 2017
a cross-linking technology that combines
large- and small-chain hyaluronic acids.
Now we have so HOT TO HANDLES: A WARMER
WAY TO ZAP FAT
Similar products last six months to a year,
so patients really like that this one [lasts] 18
many injectables Weve heard a lot about fat-freezing pro-
cedures that blast away unwanted areas
months, says Annie Chiu, MD, a dermatol-
we can target of fat by causing fat cells to freeze and

almost any
ogist in Los Angeles who has used the fill- die off, but for Manhattan dermatologist
er all over patients faces, including the Dennis Gross, MD, the best way to van-

undereye area and lips. Need something
to smooth out lines without creating the
dreaded immovable-bricks-in-my-face
effect? Say hello to Restylane Refyne and
Defyne. They have true flexibility, mean-
ing they can compress out of their position
and return to their normal state, says NYC
dermatologist Robert Anolik, MD, who al-
ternates between the two when treating
fine lines on the areas of the face that move
the most, such as around the lips and eyes.
(Refyne is for moderate wrinkles, while
Defyne is designed for deeper grooves.)
Looking for an allover treatment for those
barely-there creases? Derms are taking
their HA fillers out of the syringe. After a
laser resurfacing treatment like Fraxel, Ill
smooth Belotero, which is a very thin hyal-
uronic acid, all over the face to hydrate the
surface and mask superficial lines that are
too fine to inject, Anolik says.
IT TAKES TWO: COMBO THERAPY
FOR INSTANT RESULTS
To firm up facial skin, Heidi Waldorf, MD,
particular need.
JOSHUA ZEICHNER, MD
when I really need to go deep to get tighten-
ing of the loosey-goosey skin around the jaw-
line and neck). Yet, since both take at least
six months to reach max effect, Waldorf has
begun to cap off an application of either with
Silhouette InstaLift. As its name suggests,
Silhouette InstaLift (aka the suture lift 2.0)
boasts instantaneous results by inserting
strands, made of the same dissolvable ma-
terial as surgical stitches, under the skin to
raise the cheeks, jowls, and neck. You get a
synergy between the two [procedures], and
both immediate and longer-term improve-
ments, she says. According to Waldorf, the
combo can be done in under two hours (in-
cluding the all-important numbing time),
and other than minimal icing afterward, pa-
tients can go about their business.
Be advised, though, that not everyone is
a candidate for InstaLift: Waldorf says she
quish undesirable pockets of fat is actually
with heat. Its more effective than any-
thing Ive seen, he says of treatments like
SculpSure, which uses a high-temperature
technology that bypasses the top layers of
skin (avoiding painful bruising) and goes
straight to fat cells, causing them to rup-
ture. (Cells are eventually whisked away by
the immune system and excreted.) Sculp-
Sure is administered via a flexible bar-
shaped device that can be placed anywhere
theres a pesky bulge; the FDA has current-
ly approved use on the abdomen, inner and
outer thighs, love handles, and back. Be-
cause of the flexibility of the handpiece,
you can match the contours youre trying to
improve, Gross says. (Its a feature that he
says works especially well on the curve of
the inner thigh.)
According to data from SculpSure, the
first procedure removes 24 percent of the
fat in the area of treatment, with additional
procedures removing roughly 18 percent. It
usually takes two to three 25-minute Sculp-
Sure sessions, spaced four to six weeks

a dermatologist in Nanuet, New York, has
long been a fan of both the radio-frequency
treatment Thermage (good for very dense
skin without a huge amount of sagging,
she says) and the ultrasound Ultherapy (for
avoids using the treatment on those with thin
skin (on whom the thread material could be
visible or palpable) or those with a histo-
ry of reactivity to stitches (because theyre
made from the same material as InstaLift).
Givenchy Le Soin Noir & Blanc Masque and Este Lauder Eye Concentrate Matrix: Ben Goldstein/Studio D
apart, to get maximum results. Still, Sculp-
Sure has its limitations: Cellulite is partly
fat and partly bands of dense fibers, which
do not dissolve with any fat-reducing la-
ser, Gross says.

1 2 3 4 5

FACE TIME
1. GIVENCHY Le
Soin Noir & Blanc
Masque swirls together
the regenerative and
luminizing powers of two
different types of algae (and
its brush-assisted application
was inspired by the Japanese
massage technique of
Kobido). 2. BIOEFFECT EGF +
2A Daily Treatment, powered
by epidermal growth factors
synthesized from barley
seeds in a high-tech Icelandic
lab, protects skin from the
deleterious effects of pollution,
such as hyperpigmentation
and wrinkling. 3. With the
press of a button, LANCME
Advanced Gnifique Sensitive
Antioxidant Serum releases
a calibrated dose of ferulic
acid and vitamin E on first use,
providing a months worth of
ultrapotent skin care.
4. ALGENIST Genius Liquid
Collagen is rich in nourishing
microalgae-derived oils to
restore skins bounce.
5. ESTE LAUDER Advanced
Night Repair Eye Concentrate
Matrix protects against
daily wear and tear in the
delicate eye area with two
types of hydrating and
plumping hyaluronic acid,
as well as patented
ingredients to help skin
repair itself while you sleep.

214
 Results in 1 week
with the supercharged, go-to anti-aging ingredient.

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NEUTROGENA ACCELERATED RETINOL SA

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Retinol SA is stabilized, so it wont break down
with exposure to light and oxygen. Youll see
younger-looking skin in just one week.

See whats possible. Visit Neutrogena.com/Retinol

*Among OTC cosmetics; greater improvement on ne lines.

J&JCI 2016
BODY OF WORK: A HEAD-TO-TOE
TIGHTENING TREATMENT Studies have ed deep dimples are concerned, when it
comes to smoothing out, say, an entire leg,
When it comes to selecting the best op-
tion for laser skin tightening, derms have shown that if doctors have discovered that needle-based
radio-frequency devices, like the Profound,
traditionally faced a Catch-22: Ultra-
sound, like Ultherapy, is great because it your earlobes in which 10 microneedles deliver radio-
frequency energy deep into the skin, may
goes deeper, but its also more painful,
says Manhattan dermatologist Paul Jarrod look saggy, be more effective (and less painful). As
with Cellfina, you only need a single ses-
Frank, MD. Thermage and other radio-
frequency devices are less painful, but
droopy, and kind sion to see results, says NYC-based derm
Macrene Alexiades, MD, PhD. But where-
they really focus on the superficial layers
of skin, delivering less noticeable results.
of aged, it can as Cellfina instantly disrupts the bands of
fat cellsthereby delivering pronounced
Enter the first machine to combine the best
of boththe Exilis Ultra. Its amazing,
negatively impact results on the spotthe benefits of Pro-
found, which relies on heat technology to
says Hema Sundaram, MD, a dermatol-
how others stimulate the production of collagen (and

ogist in the Washington, DC, area, who
swears a session of Exilis Ultra feels quite
pleasant and more akin to a hot and cold
stone massage. Its so popular right now,
I actually just bought a second machine,
Frank says. You can use it on the face,
neck, arms, legs, abdomenanywhere you
want, according to Sundaram, and doctors
have found the dual-delivery system is ide-
al for work on the body, where target areas
are more expansive. In the past, we would
use something like Thermage, which re-
quired a stamping motion, so you would do
a pulse, then another, and keep moving.
On an area like the abdomen, that meant
that by the time you returned to a section to
apply another pulse, the skin was cool and
therefore less receptive to treatment. The
Exilis Ultra employs a rolling technique, so
youre able to get a very wide area of skin
up to temperature and keep it at tempera-
CORE CREW
1. Miranda Kerr keeps her gams
gleaming with antioxidant-rich
KORA ORGANICS Noni Glow
Body Oil, a blend of stretch-mark
battling rose hip oil and vitamin- 1
packed noni fruit extract. 2. The
microneedling GLOPRO Body,
which is equipped with a redness-
reducing red LED light, is designed
to address rough or sagging skin
on the backs of thighs, upper
arms, and abdomen, creating tiny
channels that prompt collagen
production and allow maximum
absorption of active ingredients
into the skin (the roller can be used
to amp up the firming effects of the
brands Knockout Knees Power
Patches). 3. JUICE BEAUTY Green
Apple Firming Body Moisturizer
brightens and smooths skin with
malic acid from organic apples.
4. LORD JONES High CBD Pain
& Wellness Body Lotion, which
contains anti-inflammatory
cannabis extracts, provides
supreme moisturization while also
helping to ease sore muscles.
perceive you.
LAUREL NAVERSEN
GERAGHTY, MD
ture, she says. Three months after a sin-
gle Exilis Ultra session, participants in a
study published in the Journal of Drugs in
Dermatology saw a 35 percent improvement
in skin laxity and 19 percent increase in
skin density.
BUMP WATCH: THE LATEST
(AND GREATEST) CELLULITE
BREAKTHROUGH
Cellfina, the device that slices fibrous
bands pulling down on fat cells, became a
dermatologist favorite for combating cel-
lulite when it was FDA approved in 2015.
While it remains popular as far as isolat-
2 the banana roll underneath the buttocks,
3 4
eventually fills out puckered places), take
a little longer to completely kick in. The
skin starts to look better right away and
continues to improve over the course of six
months to a year, says Alexiades, who has
developed a protocol that can treat both
legs in 45 minutes or less and has begun
a study to see if the machine can work its
magic on crepey arms, elephant knees, and
other places where texture is an issue.
BODY SHOTS: OUR FACES
FAVORITE INJECTABLES EXPAND
THEIR TERRITORY
Dermatologists continue to expand the
off-label use of two facial treatments
Kybella, the double chindissolving shots,
and Sculptra, the deep-wrinkle filler
for applications below the neck. Whereas
handpiece-administered fat-melters cov-
er a much broader swath of skin, needle-
injected Kybella allows for supertargeted re-
sults, ideal for blasting very small pockets of
body fat. Ive been using Kybella to contour
Zeichner says. Or that little extra fat above
the knees. Sculptra, the poly-L lactic acid
filler that jump-starts collagen production
for long-lasting results, has proven effective
at smoothing out fine lines on the body, such
as those between the breasts (Its amazing
for that, Marmur says) or between the bi-
cep and elbow. Marmur also uses Sculptra to
add volume to certain areassuch as sloped
shoulders plagued by falling bra straps or
wobbly areas on the upper arm.
If the idea of having a needle inserted
in your chest makes you squeamish, fear
not. Sculptra in the chest is minimally
painful2 or 3 out of 10 for just the needle
pinch, says Marmur, who applies a topical
numbing treatment like lidocaine before
treatment. (Heads up: Patients do experi-
ence mild bruising afterward.)

216
Want to look younger, longer?
Take the right steps now.

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Cream. Formulated with our exclusive ACTIVE NATURALS
Blackberry Complex, it improves elasticity and rmness for
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J&JCI 2016

COOL RUNWAYS
After going from a stint in the Air Force to becoming
a backstage mainstay, Erin Parsons knows the power
of makeup. Maybelline New Yorks new global makeup
artist shares the knowledge shes gleaned from
two decades in the business. By Cotton Codinha
Theres this bizarre energy
that happens in my life, says
Maybelline New Yorks new
makeup guru, Erin Parsons, of
the fortuitous turns her career
has taken. Maybe Im a witch. movie stars whose images she
Or maybe shes a hard worker:
Parsons has spent the past 20
years turning her passion for
beauty into a professionfirst
at makeup counters for brands
like Lancme and M.A.C and
then backstage learning, well,
everything alongside then-
boss Pat McGrath. She has the
skill set, not to mention tattoos
(theres a lipstick tube on her
right hand), to show for it. Now,
between collaborating on looks
218
Parsons
with Gigi Hadid (the ROYGBIV
mermaid eye that Hadid
sports in Maybellines ads
launched a flurry of YouTube
tutorials) and making over the
used to pin on her wall, Parsons
is all business. Im so lucky to
do this job. Its crazy to think
about where I started. So, yeah,
I put everything I have into it.
How did you start doing
makeup for Fashion Week?
I was working at M.A.C [in
Ohio] and another artist had
come from New York to teach
a class, and we became really
good friends. Five months
later, she became Pats main
assistant. When I told her I was
thinking of moving to New
York, she asked if I wanted to
work on shows with Pat. I was
so scared. When I got there,
everyone had their suitcase-size
kits, and everything was so
organized. The thing that got
me in with Pat was that from
my counter days, I knew how
to work with every skin tone;
I knew how to work on every
age group; I knew how to do a
smoky eye, how to do a wing,
brows. What I didnt know how
to do was, like, Margiela looks.
The reason that I can do the
makeup that I do now is because
I was with Pat for six years.
When you worked as a sales-
person, did your style change
with the brand?
The first counter I worked at
was Lancmes, and I was doing
the supermodel 90s look,
classic beauty, and playing
with red lipstick. When I got to
M.A.C, we all looked like club
kids, walking around like Leigh
Bowery. This was at a time
when we were doing something
that felt totally new; there were
lines around the store waiting
to get into a chair. I was exper-
imenting with color; my brows
seemed to get longer and
crazierand thinner, unfortu-
nately. It was such a fun time
because I was really experienc-
ing life for the first time. Id
gone into the Air Force when I
was 18, though I didnt last long. eye shadow, and giant platform
Why the Air Force?
I never cared about school; I
cared more about putting make-
up on in the bathroom before I
went to class. When I graduat-
ed, I couldnt have gotten any
kind of scholarship. U.S. service
Touching up the
ever-glamorous
Jourdan Dunn
1
2 3 4
THE ESSENTIALS
For bright, bright colors, theatrical
and costume shops are great,
Parsons says. BEN NYE Lumiere
Grande Colours (1) are so
pigmented. Parsons never uses
primer under eye shadow, favoring
concealer that has a little stick to it.
She loves MAYBELLINE NEW YORK
Instant Age Rewind Concealer (2) for
coverage and moisture. MAYBELLINE
NEW YORK SuperStay Matte Ink
Liquid Lipstick (3) feels super
lightweight but gives major intensity,
she says. SHISEIDO Eyelash Curler
(4) is the bestI have at least 10 of
them. Its more of a flat curler, so it
never pinches the eye. Start at the
tip of your lash and work your way
backward to the base, so it achieves
more of a curl instead of a crimp.
recruiters came to my school,
and in my small town in Ohio,
it seemed like my best option.
I showed up to basic training
with full false eyelashes, blue
shoes. The instructor looked
at me and stopped talking. She
didnt even know what to say.
I only stayed for about nine
Parsons and Dunn: courtesy of Maybelline New York
months, because after I got out
of basic training, we went to a
tech school, and it just wasnt
for me. I was wearing red lip-
stick with camo.
So how did you get into make-
up when you left the service?
I started working at Walmart,
and a friend suggested a make-
up counter might be a better fit.
I interviewed at Lancme and
got the job. I knew that I was
onto something with the first
 Its not about following a picture;
its what works on you.
persons makeup I did. She
loved everything I put on
her, and the sale was huge.
And that was itI was on
a mission. I really enjoyed
the selling part of it, too.
Do you experiment
on yourself?
Always. Working with Pat,
wed do a test before each
show, so wed have a few
hours to play with ideas
and work out what the look
was [on the models]. Now
I do that on myself. I have
the patience, and I can
take the pain of wiping and
putting back on, whereas
a model would want to kill
me if I did 10 looks on her.
Where do you get
your inspiration?
My phone has about
10,000 pictures in it, from
the Web, from books. I col-
lect magazines. Sometimes
Ill just be on my balcony in
[NYCs] financial district,
and Ill see the lights and
the cars driving by and
have an idea. And I do a
lot of research. If Im given
a prompt for an editorial,
like bird of paradise, Ill
find every picture I can
of colorful birds. I cut up
a feather and realized Id
created the perfect crazy
long lash.
What looks are you
excited about now?
Im calling it delicate
defiance. Maybe you do
an eyeliner, but its a zigzag
over the eye, done really
delicately. Its fresh skin and
freckles showing through,
no mascara and just this
weird line. Or maybe one
gray line on top of the eye
crease, and thats the whole
look. Done.
Maybelline excels in
classic staples. What
are your favorites?
With Maybelline, you
know youre going to get
a good red or nude lip, a
good eyeliner or mascara.
Now theyre playing with
texture and color. Theres a
liquid liner thats metallic
teal, and its so gorgeous.
You could just have nothing
on your face, just this, and
youd have an amazing
look. I love how expensive
the shadows feel in the
City Mini Palette. Theyre
so pigmented you can use
them wet or dryif you
want blinding shimmer,
just use a damp brush.
Whats your
makeup mantra?
Its all about layering
and putting time into it.
When you do it that way,
it becomes part of the skin
instead of lying on top. For
example, for a perfect red
lip, start with lip balm and
scrub, and then tissue off.
Then put a bit of concealer
and a tiny touch of loose
powder. Line your lips per-
fectly, and then fill in the
entire lip. Put the lipstick
on top of the liner, then
tissue it off; put another
Gigi Hadids
lids go graphic
at Parsonss
(painted) hand
coat of lipstick on. There are
ways to make everything
feel rich and luxurious.
What about eyes?
Same with eyeliner and
shadow. With eyeliners,
I always lay down a black
pencil first and trace out the
wing. I go in with a black
powder eye shadow to soften
and smoke it, and I finalize
by putting on liquid liner.
It takes more time, but it
looks so rich.
Do you use brushes
for application?
For lipstick, it depends
on the formula and what
finish you wantif Im using
matte, its better straight
from the tube for the most
amount of product. If Im
using a creamy lipstick, you
can do it from the tube or
use a brush for control.
A sheer lipstick is even
better if you take your
finger and rub into it and
then pat it on the lips.
How should we experiment
with eye looks?
I always start with conceal-
er on the eyes for a blank
canvas. Lets say you were
doing the Gigi mermaid
eyewhich really was
inspired by graffiti, but the
Internet started calling it the
mermaid/unicorn, and
it stuck. Start with a dark
burgundy pencil and trace
out the shape of the eye, then
put a little shadow on the
crease and blend outward.
Any color works, as long as
its adding depth to create
shape. Then you can pop dif-
ferent shimmers on your lid.
Youre going to get the most
impact at the inner corner.
Sometimes you dont need
anything elsejust put mas-
cara on and youre done. Its
Instagram
not about following a picture;
its what works on you.

DEAR READER, I LIED
Well, not really, or at least not intentionally. Cathi Hanauerand
many othershave written paeans to how theyve successfully
quit antidepressants. But as she reveals here, the story of going
drug-free is a lot more complicated
My father, a rheumatologist, routinely pre-
scribes drugs such as prednisone and meth-
otrexatehes a believer in up-to-date med-
icine. Yet hes skeptical of the fact that I have
been on Celexa, a popular antidepressant
and antianxiety medication, for 13 years.
When a young relative of ours fled college
two weeks into freshman year, undone by
the anxiety that had plagued her all her life,
he wasnt impressed. Why dont they just
tell her she has to stay? he demanded. (Ac-
tually, he preceded it with Jesus Christ!)
The point is, even among doctors, theres
still a stigma about mental illnessand about
the necessity of treating it with psychoactive
drugs. The notion lingers that we all should
be able to pick ourselves up by the proverbial
bootstraps, that anyone who cant hack life
without a pill has a moral or character flaw.
This, even though today in this country one
in eight adults takes an SSRI (Prozac, Zoloft,
Lexapro, Celexa) or a similar SNRI (Effexor,
Cymbalta) or NDRI (Wellbutrin). The rates
are almost double that for women in their
forties and fifties.
222
Though I feel zero shame about my own
reliance on SSRIsmaybe because so many
of the smart, original artist types I know tend
toward depression, and more than a few
swear by these drugsI worry I may have
contributed to the stigma myself, with an
article I wrote for this magazine nine years
ago. So Im here to set the record straight: to
come clean about, well, not coming clean.
In my November 2008 piece, Club Med, Id think, and tears would run down my face.
I wrote about the backlash against SSRIs,
which were then as now the most commonly
used drugs to treat depression and anxiety,
and the ones with the leastand least delete-
riousside effects. Yet books with titles like
Medication Madness and Comfortably Numb
were arguing that Americans had medicat-
ed away normal emotions under the spell of
evil-genius pharmaceutical marketers, that
SSRIs increased the risk of suicide, and that
the long-term risks of the drugs were un-
known. Id gone on a low dose of Celexa, 10
milligrams, six years earlier for anxiety and
insomnia and had been completely cured
of both. As I wrote, The white noise in my
head vanishedpoof!and a feeling of calm
came over me, the likes of which I hadnt felt
since childhood summer vacations, if ever.
My anger at my husband, my annoyance
about the mess of our house, my stress about
public appearances, all quietly abated.... For
the first time in a decade, I began to sleep
deeply through the night. I quit therapy,
which no longer felt necessary; I cheerfully
did a book tour Id been fearing; I wrote a
novel for the first time in years.
And then, after five years of taking Cel-
exa, I stopped. My doctor had suggested it;
with my life in a less taxing place, she said,
I might not need it anymore. I respected my
doctor, and I was secretly relieved to no lon-
ger need a drug for my head.
The withdrawal, however, was harrowing.
SSRI discontinuation syndrome had been
unheard-of when Id started Celexa, which
was initially marketed as dependence- and
withdrawal-free, but by the time I went off,
it was well known. A week after halving my
dose to five milligrams, I woke up with what
I thought was the flu: headache, dizziness,
achiness, exhaustion. That lasted six weeks.
I spent the next nine months tapering from
five milligrams to zero.
I also adopted some classically good
habits, practices recommended to people
struggling with virtually any affliction: eating
better, doing hot yoga a few times a week, re-
turning to therapy. When I wrote the ELLE
story, Id been drugless for three months. Out
of what I called Pharma Nirvana, I was get-
ting used to no longer hovering above myself
watching myself live, but instead was actually
living. Living and yelling and stressing, yes,
and often anxious and angry and sadbut
with the sadness came an awareness that
I had not really experienced on the drug.
Time was passing. My kids will be gone soon,
If that sounds like a bit much, I can now
tell you: It was. As the months passed, the
old feelings and behaviors reemergedall of
them, like before, annoying and debilitating
but not life-threateninguntil one day, sit-
ting in my therapists office alternately whin-
ing about my wonderful, chosen life and
weeping because everything seemed just so
sad, I begged her to affirm what I felt sure of:
I was a tad, um, depressed, wasnt I? When
she agreed, I hightailed it back onto Celexa,
felt worlds better soon after, and have been
on it for the last seven years with no plans to
ever abandon it again.
Since then, Ive noticed that we read a lot
of stories like mine, about people getting
free of these drugs, but we rarely know
what happens later. This makes sense; theres
a certain euphoria and nobility that comes
with kicking a drug for the mind, something
that, if youre a writer, makes you want to,
well, write about it. Two years ago, in a se-
ries of riveting essays for the New York Times
called Going Off, Diana Spechler chroni-
cled her decision to wean herself from a trio
of psychiatric drugs because of their grim,
unbearable side effects. The 11 columns
spanned five months; by the final installment,
she was 20 days med-free, eating only whole
foods, stepping back into the world, a yoga
mat strapped to my shoulder.
Twenty days isnt a long time to be off an
antidepressant; some of these drugs dont
completely exit your system for weeks. I won-
dered: How was Spechler coping now? And
then there was Patricia Pearson, the author
of the gorgeous and philosophical 2008 book
A Brief History of Anxiety: Yours and Mine
which Id referenced in my earlier piece.
Her book, too, was written right after shed
stopped taking first Effexor and then Lexapro,
which shed used to help her cope with quit-
ting Effexor. It ended as she hit her six-week
drug-free anniversary. But again, what hap-
pened after the six weeks...or six years?
I got my answers. But first, I want to ad-
dress some of the controversy and doubt
about SSRIsa shadow that hasnt lifted ap-
preciably since I last wrote about this.
First, its true that even though its been
30 years since Prozac hit the market, no one
knows exactly how SSRIs and their cousins
work, although thats the case with medica-
tions for everything from penicillin for infec-
tions to acetaminophen for pain relief. One
long-standing theory is that SSRIs recalibrate
levels of neurotransmittersdopamine, sero-
tonin, norepinephrinewhich brings relief to
people with a supposed deficiency of them.
But depression is a complicated illness,
with multiple causessome mix of genetic,
environmental, and psychological compo-
nentsand different symptoms for different
people (anxiety, sadness, apathy, hopeless-
ness, irritability, fatigue, change in appetite,
suicidal tendencies), not to mention different
side effects from its medications. Treating it
is as much art as science. Even as I faithfully
took my pills, writes Daphne Merkin in her
new memoir, This Close to Happy: A Reckoning
With Depression, I couldnt help wondering:
Was I medicating a bad childhood or a chem-
ical irregularity?
That said, we do know that SSRIs help a lot
of people, whether alleviating chronic mild
depression (dysthymia) or preventing attacks
of the major, paralyzing variety. Heres Mer-
kin again, whos taken psychiatric drugs for
more than three decades: Its only when I
begin to sink that I remember why I am on
antidepressants to begin with, which is they
seem to keep me from hitting rock bottom.
Second, its also true that no one is sure of
the long-term impact of these drugs. Some
among them Katherine Sharpe, who wrote
Coming of Age on Zoloft: How Antidepressants
Cheered Us Up, Let Us Down, and Changed
Who We Arebelieve that the brain habit-
uates to SSRIs, so that when theyre with-
drawn, depressive symptoms come sneaking
back. The corollary to that, of course, is that
Is devoting 10
hours a week to
hot yoga to
feel at peace really
better than
popping a cheap,
legal pill?
once you start, you can never stop. I asked
psychiatrist Peter Kramerwho wrote the
landmark Listening to Prozac in 1993 and last
year returned with Ordinarily Well, which is in
large measure a defense of antidepressants
what he thought of Sharpes assertion. If
she means that theres a higher likelihood
of depression when you come off medicine
than you wouldve had if youd never been
on medicine...its just very hard to research
that question, he said. In Ordinarily Well, he
calls a theory like Sharpes the nightmare
scenario and, ultimately, deems it implau-
siblepartly because hes seen patients give
up SSRIs and do fine, and partly because
there are shortcomings in the research that
supposedly proves theyre doing harm.
Even Sharpe admitted, in a piece in the
Atlantic, that SSRIs have been around for 25
years, and anecdotal reports of catastrophic
ill effects have yet to emerge. (There is some-
thing called Prozac poop-out, a sudden re-
turn of depressive symptoms after sustained
usage. Though he hasnt encountered this in
his own practice, Kramer, a professor emer-
itus at Brown University, doesnt dismiss it
outright, comparing antidepressants to insu-
lin for diabetics. Its not that insulin fails at
its job, its that it doesnt do everything, he
writes. Something comparable may occur
with antidepressants in depression; they help
whatever brain system they are helping, but
the underlying illness will break through, so
that more or different help is needed.)
In contrast, the risks of not treating de-
pression are considerable. Once the illness
sets in, its harder and harder to interrupt
and the longer someone remains depressed,
the more likely the illness will continue or
recur, and with more virulence. Plus, per-
sistent depression may, among other things,
cause memory loss and increase the chance
of Alzheimers, Kramer says.
Perhaps what has stoked the biggest suspi-
cion about the value of SSRIs are studies that
suggest they work no better than placebos.
To be clear, few experts make this argument
with regard to treating major depression
the drugs are widely judged effective for that.
The controversy focuses on the milder man-
ifestations of the disease. In his new book,
Kramer documents myriad flaws in data col-
lection and interpretation that undercut this
conclusion; for just one persuasive example,
he offers evidence that a significant swath
of the subjects participating in SSRI trials
arent actually depressed, so of course they
improve on dummy pills, as he puts it.
For my part, Im not sure I care whether or
not its the placebo effect thats responsible
for the transformation SSRIs have wrought
in my life. I dont believe it for a minute, but
then placebos have been shown to mitigate
the symptoms of all kinds of physical illness-
es, after all. Mind-body dualism is dead.
It came down to this: The amount of time,
energy, and money I was spending in an
effort to feel half as well off Celexa as on it
seemed ridiculousnotwithstanding how
much I vibed with high-flown thinking about
the virtues of feeling ones feelings. It is
necessary to go/through dark and deep-
er dark/and not to turn, the poet Stanley
Kunitz wrote. Rumi: You are the cure for
your own sorrow. And the chronically anx-
ious philosopher Kierkegaard theorized ex-
tensively about the condition as a source of
creativity and personal growth: Whoever
has learned to be anxious the right way has
learned the ultimate. (Today, anxiety disor-
ders are the most diagnosed mental illnesses
in the U.S., though anxiety and depression
Continued on page 300
223
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224

GOODBYE TO ALL THAT
After a lifetime of moderate (and occasional immoderate)
drinking, Rachael Combe put down her Cabernet to investigate
what lay beneath her habit. Was drinking really as healthy
or funas shed always thought it was?
I
had an epiphany last summer: Drink-
ing sucks. I was standing in a klatch of
couples at a seaside cocktail party, ev-
eryone yakking about vacation plans and
their childrens sports teams. I looked at
my friends faces reddening from drink, the
sweat on the mens upper lips, the women
hoisting their big goblets of wine to their
lipsticked mouths. Everyone was talking
too loud, and nobody was really saying any-
thing. I was no different, clutching my wine,
aggressively searching for my moment to
jump into the double Dutch of conversation.
Im exhausting, I thought. This party is
exhausting. How many parties had I been
to? Hundreds and hundreds. How many
glasses of wine had I downed? Thousands
and thousands. Teenage keggers in the
woods, swanky soirees, backyard BBQs,
230
book parties, frat parties, birthday parties,
holiday parties, moms nights out, network-
ing events. What had it all amounted to? Not
to mention all the time spent sitting on my
couch, splitting a bottle with my husband,
vacantly watching TVor parked at a bar
with a girlfriend, nursing cocktails and
mostly complaining to each other. It was a
tale told by a desperate housewife, full of
small talk and ros, signifying nothing. It
was like semantic satiationthat phenome-
non when you repeat a word so many times
it dissolves into meaninglessness.
Though I didnt know it at the time, I
am apparently part of a trend. As yoga and
meditation have arrived at the locus of
mainstream cultureand juice fasts and
abstemious diets like the Whole30 have
gained popularitya new group of seekers
has become interested in an alcohol-free
lifestyle, along with a phalanx of party pro-
moters and life coaches catering to their
newfound sobriety. At the same time, our
culture seems to have reached a peak of
alcohol saturation: A report published in
August in JAMA Psychiatry found that alco-
holism rose a shocking 49 percent between
2002 and 2013. In the study, one in eight
American adults met the diagnostic criteria
for alcoholism. And the Centers for Disease
Control estimates that 88,000 Americans
a year die from alcohol-related causes
(more than twice the number of deaths
from opiates).
For me, this wasnt the first time Id con-
sidered breaking up with booze. I remember
a similar moment in my late twenties, when
I tottered out of a club (where, randomly,
my friends and I had been dancing in a VIP
lounge with Shannen Doherty and a leer-
ing middle-aged Italian fashion photogra-
pher) to bum a cigarette from the bouncer
and, looking out on the empty, wee-hour
Manhattan streets, realized, with total cer-
tainty, Ive outgrown this. I hailed a cab
and went home, my party-girl days behind
me. I started dating my husband soon after,
and my drinking habits settled into a more
adult patterna little bit, most days, with
dinner rather than weekend-only blowouts.
I stopped imbibing altogether during my
pregnancies and the early months of round-
the-clock nursing that followed. Each time
I resumed, Id feel hyperaware of alcohols
effectsand of how desperately Id been
craving a glass of something to soothe my
frazzled new-mother nervesand wonder if
Id been better off sober.
But study after study seemed to point in
the opposite direction, showing that people
who gave up drinking or never drank were
often as unhealthy as alcohol abusers. It was
the tyranny of the U-shaped curve: Drink
a little bit of alcohol, and you had greater
heart health and a lower incidence of dia-
betes and stroke. You were a more reliable
employee and earned a higher income. But
the people on either end, who either didnt
drink or drank too much, had higher rates of Jennifer Robbins/thelicensingproject.com
morbidity and mortality.
As one researcher explained to me years
ago, alcohol was a drugand a powerful one
at that. Moderate drinkers took the correct
doseone that eased their stress and in-
creased their heart health. Teetotalers, on
the other hand, missed out on the drugs
benefits. Abusers were overdosing.
I took careful note of the CDCs defini-
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tion of moderation and tried to stay within
those guidelines. For women, the govern-
ment recommends no more than one shot
of hard alcohol, 12 ounces of beer, or one
5-ounce glass of wine a day (and you cant
save up and have two or three drinks on the
weekend; its one per day, no excuses). For a
decade, I more or less stuck to that prescrip-
tion. I loved my wine time.
Im not sure what prompted my abrupt
disenchantment. Looking back, I was defi-
nitely depressed last summer. Im a femi-
nist and a progressive; it hurt to watch the
newsand yet I gorged on it. If Twitter were
a cocktail, I would have drunk myself to
death before the primaries were even over.
As the existence of facts became a subject of
partisan debate, Id grown distrustful of any
filter between myself and reality. Alcohol
seemed like a gauzy scrim, distorting the
edges of my perception, making me sleepy
(and messing up my actual sleep). I needed
to keep myself sharp, in fighting shape.
I launched into one of those give up ev-
erything at once, Paleo-style diets: no sug-
ar, no gluten, no dairy, no grains, no alcohol.
And I quickly discovered the truth about
myself. I was a junkie who maintained her
emotional equilibrium through an elaborate
doping schedule of coffee, bagels, Raisi-
nets, M&Ms, and red wine. Without cof-
fee, I couldnt think of a reason to get out of
bed. Without bagels, the only time I wasnt
thinking about bagels was when I was think-
ing about bagel chips. Without chocolate, I
couldnt sit at my desk and write. Without
alcohol, I couldnt relax in the evening and
turn the volume down on the furious, rabid
rabbit who jabbered in my brain all day, tell-
ing me what a hash I was making of my life.
Id wake up at 3 a.m., and there would be
Bunny, pestering me for a bagel and whis-
pering, with amphetamine glee, that no-
body truly loved me.
This went on for the duration of the pro-
gram. There was no euphoria or burst of vi-
brant health. I got in a terrible fight with a
close friend. I got a bad cold. Grilled chicken
and sweet potatoes began to make me gag.
On the night Donald Trump was elected, I
was seven and a half weeks into the eight-
week diet. I was covering Hillary Clintons
party-cum-wake, and somewhere around
midnight, after I helped a Democratic aide
having a full-blown panic attack in the
bathroom, I drank a glass of wine. The next
morning, running on about an hour of sleep,
I drank coffee and ate a goddamn bagel and
leftover Halloween candy while I filed my
232
story. Never has anyone eaten Almond Joys
with such nihilism.
It was a dark and stormy night for the next
month or so. I jumped on and off the wagon.
But I found wine didnt work like it used to.
I didnt feel relaxed and content with a glass
in my hand. I felt like I wanted to smash ev-
ery window in my house and howl with grief
into the quiet streets of my neighborhood.
My husband took me for some R&R on
a sunny island. Away from the clamoring
voices of my children and social media, I
considered my foulness more carefully. I
lifted the ragged, pulsating mass off my
solar plexus and examined it like a faceted
gem. How had I not noticed I was dragging
this ugly thing around with me for so long?
Wasnt it weird
that, of my
closest friends
from childhood
through college,
nearly half were
in recovery?
Why was I so unhappy? What was I so pissed
off about? Where did all these feelings of
worthlessness and shame come from? The
triumph of misogyny had been a blow, but it
wasnt the crux of the matter. The real prob-
lem was meor, rather, Bunny.
Bunny was always all, Work harder, stop
complaining. Suck it up, buttercup. You look
fat in that. Youll sleep when youre dead.
All your friends are more successful than
you are. Dont look at meyoure the one
who had four kids. If you dont show up,
you wont have any friends. Youre such an
ungrateful whiner. Meditation? Yoga? Sex?
You dont have time for that crap. You are the
worst time manager. Your house is a mess.
Youre behind at work. Do something about
your hair. Take that off! Mutton dressed as
lamb! God, you look old. Some people have
inner children. I have an inner Bela Karolyi,
but more abusive. And a bunny.
Wine (and sugar and coffee) made life
on this anhedonic treadmill tolerable. They
were painkillers that helped me stick the
landing despite my injuries. Yes, I was tak-
ing the correct dose, butwait a second cise regularly, to live in areas with less air
why was I vaulting on a sprained ankle to
begin with? (Fun fact: Did you know that the
1996 U.S. Olympic gymnastics team would
have beaten the Russians even if Kerri Strug
hadnt vaulted on her injured ankle? It was
gratuitous!) The more I became aware of
the spiritual and physical exhaustion I was
self-medicating, the less it seemed like a
healthy choice to carry on as I always had.
Drinking wasnt really my problem, but I
found it intriguing how removing alcohol
(and other substances I was consuming in
supposedly perfectly healthy amounts) re-
vealed this chasm of misery.
And speaking of how healthy moderate
drinking isit seems the claims may have
been somewhat overstated. First of all, al-
cohol is a known breast carcinogen. The
effect is relatively mild compared to other
carcinogens, but any alcohol consumption
increases breast cancer risk. Roughly one
in eight American women will be diagnosed
with breast cancer in their lifetime. Accord-
ing to the National Cancer Institute, for
every 10 grams of alcohol women drink a
day (the equivalent of a little less than one
drink), they raise their cancer risk by about
7 percent. For the average American wom-
an, this means her risk would go from
12.4 percent to about 13.7 percent. For wom-
en who drink the equivalent of three drinks
a day, their risk goes up 50 percent, or from
12.4 percent to 18.6 percent. Perhaps not a
large enough effect to get the average wom-
an off the sauce, but the risks become more
substantial for women who start out with
higher than average risk, such as those who
carry the BRCA gene or who have a family
history of breast cancer.
Secondly, the cardiovascular benefits of
drinking may be a bit of a mirage, having
as much to do with who is drinking mod-
eratelythe more affluent, the more edu-
catedas it does with the amount of booze
itself. When the CDC published a new fact
sheet on moderate drinking in 2015, it spe-
cifically hedged against the popular notion
that drinking was heart healthy: While
some studies have found improved health
outcomes among moderate drinkers, its
impossible to conclude whether these im-
proved outcomes are due to moderate al-
cohol consumption or other differences in
behaviors or genetics between people who
drink moderately and people who dont.
To wit, people with higher education levels
and incomes are not only more likely to be
moderate drinkers; they also tend to exer-
pollution, to have medical insurance, and to
not be overweightall factors that predict
better heart health.
Further, did you know that alcohol
shrinks your brain? Its true! Doctors have
long recognized that heavy drinking in-
creases the risk for Alzheimers and oth-
er forms of cognitive decline, but a large,
high-quality study recently published in the
British medical journal BMJ suggests this
holds true for even moderate drinkers. Re-
searchers tracked how much participants
drank over 30 years and found that anyone
who drank more than two to three drinks a
week registered more pronounced declines
in performance on certain speech-fluency
tests compared to those who drank less. In
brain scans, they also showed atrophy of
the hippocampusthe area responsible for
learning, cognition, memory, and emotion-
al regulationsevere enough to be visible
to the naked eye, though the studys lead
author, Anya Topiwala, a clinical lecturer in
psychiatry at Oxford University, cautioned
that its unknown whether the loss in hippo-
campal mass means these people will go on
to develop memory deficits or Alzheimers.
Topiwala hypothesized that the effects
her research turned up may not have been
evident previously due to the same type
of confounding that muddies research on
heart health: Moderate drinkers are more
educated, so it may not be as obvious in a
one-off clinical study that alcohol has dulled
their shine. Her team, however, collected
detailed information about social class,
IQ, education levels, and exercise habits in
real time over 30 years to control for such
variablesand the results were convincing
enough that it changed her own habits, she
said. Im not a teetotaler, but I have to ad-
mit, working on this study has led to a reduc-
tion in my intake. She says she now has only
two to three drinks a week.
It takes a long time and a lot of effort to
change a habit. It was so much work, in fact,
that I briefly considered whether I was an al-
coholic. I do have a fair amount of addiction
in my familyand wasnt it weird that, of
my closest friends from childhood through
college, nearly half were in recovery? Id
go for weeks without a drink, easily weath-
ering all sorts of situations fraught with
temptationa work party at a bar, a looming
deadlineand then, suddenly, one night the
waiter would say, Can I get you anything to
drink? And Id ask for a glass of Cabernet,
seemingly for no reason.
I called up addiction expert Frederick
Woolverton, PhD, coauthor of Unhooked:
How to Quit Anything, and ran through my
experience for him. Woolverton helped me
quit smoking back in my twenties. He didnt
think I was an alcoholic because the glass
of Cabernet didnt lead to two or 12 more.
I was, more or less, in control of my vice.
What you felt is a minor version of what
addicts feel when they give up their drug
of choice. They have those feelings of grief
times a hundred, he said.
None of my loved ones thought I had a
problem either. My husband regarded the
whole enterprise with bemused tolerance
(sometimes veering into irritation if I got too
high-horsey about clean living). My mother
told her doctor about my project, wonder-
ing if she should go on the wagon with me,
I didnt want to
drink again until
I felt complete
without drinking.
and reported back that he said moderate
drinkers are healthier than abstainers. Even
Woolverton is on board with the correct
dose theory. A glass of wine to take the
edge off isnt a problem and can even be psy-
chologically healthy, he insisted.
And yet, for some reason, it felt like a
cop-out. I didnt want to drink again until I
felt complete without drinking. In Loving
kindness: The Revolutionary Art of Happiness,
meditation guru Sharon Salzberg described
a time when she voluntarily gave up alcohol
to hew more closely to the Buddhist vow to
abstain from all intoxicants. I felt as if I
had laid something to rest. There was some
new clarity and strength, however subtle.
It wasa kind of delight I felt within. I felt
stronger, clearer, more confident; I felt more
self-respect. I wanted what she was having.
The only people who were enthusiastic
about my quest were my sober pals. When
I told my friend Liam how lonely it was to
be a teetotaler in my Cheever-esque beach
town, where people wear T-shirts embla-
zoned with the towns name and the slogan
A drinking town with a sailing problem,
he encouraged me to check out AA meetings
to make new friends. They say all thats re-
quired is a desire to stop drinking, he said.
You qualify!
I found the meetings compelling. Peo-
ple are so honest about their failings and
foiblestheres none of the fronting and
facades of normal conversation. Its impos-
sible not to be moved. But I also felt out of
place. Sometimes I even felt embarrassingly
jealous of the alcoholics, as they recounted
all the damage their addiction had caused,
all the people theyd heedlessly injured, all
the wild antics. Here I am, Id quietly seethe,
lying awake at night, carefully thinking
through the ethical ramifications of skip-
ping a volunteer obligation so I can work.
Beating myself up for having one glass of
Cabernet at dinner with my husband. Kill-
ing myself to serve a variety of vegetables
to my kids. And here is a roomful of people
talking about freebasing at work and burn-
ing through their parents savings in rehabs
and vomiting on a friends lap. It was like the
biblical parable of the prodigal son, a story
Id always struggled with. What about the
son who always did the right thing and nev-
er ran away? Why didnt he get a banquet?
Why was I always the chump cleaning up
the vomit? I stopped going to AA meetings. I
didnt have the right esprit de corps.
During this period, as I cast about for a
clique to join, I took a class in mindfulness
meditation at the synagogue in town and
began meditating more regularly. It was at
this point that a work friend told me that
sobriety was all the rage among millenni-
als (although Im not sure how to square the
idea that this is a millennial trend with the
fact that, according to studies, millennials
arent drinking less than past generations,
and millennial women are drinking more).
She pointed me toward the new alcohol-free
social scene that has cropped up in Manhat-
tan and other large cities.
I checked out a dawn yoga dance party
called Daybreaker with my old drinking
buddy Katie. The ticket takers at the event
were aggressively peppy and made us hug
them upon entry. Im a morning person,
but thats too much, Katie whispered to me
peevishly as we dragged our mats upstairs to
the warehouse dance space. After the yoga
it was lovely to do sun salutations to the actu-
al sunrisewe both agreed we werent in the
mood to enter the sweaty scrum to dance to
house music before work. We left early to sit
in my car and drink coffee and talk.
My friend Tara and I went to an event
called The Shine, billed as an alcohol-free va-
riety show. After a little inspirational rapping
and folk music, a guy got up and launched
into an infomercial for a celebrity holistic
doctor in New York City. Though wed been
Continued on page 299
233
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 LIVING

Sandor wears
a caftan from
Nanushka with
her own jeans.
Julien Boudet (hair and makeup by Eszter Magyar)

LOFTY AMBITION
In her Budapest apartment, Nanushka designer
Sandra Sandor turns an open space into a
sentimental midcentury home.
By Brianna Kovan

237
 Loft life means minimal closet space. Sandor
maximizes storage opportunities through
berpractical pieces, like a midcentury metal
shelf unit (right), which houses her eclectic
ceramic tableware. [The furniture] has to be
functional, she says of the spaces decorating
challenges. Its not only about aesthetics.

In a loft like this, you have two A portable panel-

rooms with fixed functions: cum-bookshelf
sections off the
the kitchen and the bathroom, bedroom from the
says Hungarian designer Sandra living area.
Sandor, 35, of her 1,400-square-

Julien Boudet (hair and makeup by Eszter Magyar)

foot Budapest loft, located on a
leafy residential stretch along
the Danube. The rest of the
space can easily be rearranged.
When Sandor and her boyfriend,
Peter Baldasztithe CEO of
her minimalist line, Nanushka
(carried stateside at independent
boutiques such as Brooklyns
Concrete + Water)moved Sandors three-year-
into the apartment in a former old Bedlington terrier,
Ginie, atop a velvet-and-
World War I field hospital last rosewood antique bench.
November, they did just that. The
couple arranged and rearranged
locally sourced furniture, then Sandor lounges in a A tin bathtub (which came
leather and burl-wood with the apartment) at the
added smaller personal touches, armchair. (Hungary is base of the bed, flanked
like a Moroccan rug draped known for its deco and by a banana tree from
across a kitchen bench and midcentury finds.) Baldasztis mother. At
first, I couldnt imagine
a 1970s Slim Aarons print of using the tub, but I really
poolside Marbella, Spain, which enjoy it during the autumn
hangs above their bed. This fall, and winter, Sandor says.
theyll launch a new concept
store to complement Nanushkas
flagship Budapest location,
featuring jewelry, textiles, and
ceramics from fellow Eastern
European artists.

238
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240
 Our Saint of
Rational Self-Interest
Some call Mike Bloomberg Special Envoy; others hoped to call him Mr.
President. We call him a New York badass whose superpower is data. Everything
he cares about is in play right now. Pity the fools up against him. By Lisa Chase
PHOTOGRAPHED BY HENRY LEUTWYLER
T
he world is turned upside down, says Michael Bloomberg,
the billionaire businessman, UN Special Envoy for Cities
and Climate Change, three-term former New York City
mayor, public health and immigrant champion, lover of
cities and enemy of gun violence, climate quant, and sugar daddy
many times over to his philanthropic causes. Its hard to succinctly
describe what Bloomberg does. I counted, with absolutely no confi-
dence that I was even skimming the surface, more than 20 organiza-
tions and initiatives he is currently engaged with as founder, chair,
or major funder.
He also runs Bloomberg L.P., a global financial services, media,
and software company that has made him one of the richest men
in the worldhis net worth has been estimated at $52.3 billion, and
hes donated a reported $5 billion to a select handful of causes. (He
belongs to a group of the super-rich whove pledged to give away at
least half their fortunes.) Bloomberg is a patron of the arts (works by
Jeff Koons and Teresita Fernndez fill his Beaux Artsstyle East Side
foundation offices). He and his friend Bette Midler came up with the
idea in 2007 to plant one million trees in New York over 10 years to
clean the air, diminish flooding, and beautify the city. Bloomberg
helped fund it, and on November 20, 2015, tree No. 1,017,634 was
planted, two years ahead of schedule.
When does the guy sleep? He looks incredibly well rested, decades
younger than his 75 years.
The three big things that society has to worry about? he muses,
sitting amid his famous Bloomberg terminals in his Midtown offices.
One, climate change, because you can kill every living thing. Two,
nuclear war, because you can killnot everything, but you kill
enough. Its August 7, the same day that the New York Times runs
a story about how federal scientists fear their alarming National
Climate Assessment will be suppressed or altered by the Trump ad-
ministration; and the day before Trump will threaten fire and fury
like the world has never seen on North Korea. Check. And the third
one is technology destroying jobs. Because thats going to upset the
normal order all around the world; even in China, where theyre try-
ing to bring more people into the middle class, they are hell-bent on
building robots and have fewer people working in the factories.
Bloomberg, trim and tanned in a dark suit with an American flag
pinned to his lapel, is warming to his topic. I could tell you how to
solve your income inequality problemjust tax the rich and give it
to the poor; have a graduated tax. You can do that; thats easy to do.
Whether we want to do that is a separate issue.
Hes self-assured, even brash, in his assessment of the worlds big
threats and how to eliminate them. And then suddenly, hes honest
about his efficacy in a way that no politician is, ever: I dont know
how to give the dignity of a job to those at the bottom. You know,
if I ran for president, I could come up with some solutions, but Im
not sure there are any great solutions. (This isnt to suggest that
he seemed likely to throw his hat in the ring for 2020.)
He believes ardently in the power of data; hes a data fiend, says
University of Maryland School of Public Policy dean Robert Orr, a
Bloomberg co-conspirator and an architect of the Paris Agreement
the 2015 global pact to reduce the worlds greenhouse gas emissions,
which Donald Trump pulled the United States out of in June. Data
powered Bloombergs fortune, via his lucrative terminals, which de-
liver trading information and software and are ubiquitous in the fi-
nancial services industry. Its going to power his next big thing, too:
Americas Pledge, a growing alliance of states, cities, governors,
mayors, business leaders, universities, and philanthropies that have
vowed to get the country to meet the emissions-reduction promises
that Barack Obama agreed to in Paris. Its going to be a Whos Who
of climate and economic analysis in America, Orr says, a defini-
tive analysis of the U.S. economy, what were emitting, etcetera. All
the other world players will know what were doing.
A key mission of Americas Pledge, Bloomberg explains, is to
create ways to measure whether were actually meeting the goals,
because if you cant measure it, you cant manage it. Government
programs never want measurement because then you have to imple-
ment it, you have to pay for itthey dont want to do that. And if you
implement it poorly, they dont want to be held accountable. Before
Trump, the U.S. had promised to reduce emissions 26 to 28 percent
from 2005 levels in the next eight years. We want to go faster than
that; were halfway there now, says Antha Williams, who leads the
environmental program at Bloomberg Philanthropies.
Bloomberg recently called the federal government impotent. He
thinks that Obama came late to climate change, and that because
of Syria, history wont be kind to him: 500,000 people killed, and
America did nothing. He called Trump a con in a speech at the
2016 Democratic National Convention, where, frankly, he wasnt
overly glowing about Hillary Clinton either, though he did endorse
her. It was by then well known that Bloomberg had almost run for
president as an independent; hed conducted polling in 22 states, pro-
duced TV ads, and as much as picked a running mate, retired admiral
Michael G. Mullen. But he ultimately concluded he could not win.
The Clintons called and asked, Would I give a speech? And we
said, Okay, we will do it during prime time, on the best night, and
you will not see a copy of the speech before I give it.
He was at Auschwitz with colleagues and friends the day that
Trump reneged on the Paris Agreement. I had always wanted to go,
so I did. When Trump dropped out, we were standing in Auschwitz,
and we got this brilliant idea: Well step in, Bloomberg says. He ba-
sically on-the-spot founded, with California governor Jerry Brown,
Americas Pledge as an end run around the federal governmentand
immediately committed $15 million to the United Nations to make
up for the projected shortfall created by our abandonment of the
world climate pact. Who needs an impotent government, anyway?
241
 We Begin?It was like having sex witha
dead body, one husband miserably tells
his wife about their years of obligatory in-
tercoursebecame a sensation last sum-
mer. Perels new book, The State of Affairs:
Rethinking Infidelity (Harper), challenges
the quick condemnation of the unfaithful
and posits the idea that cheating in certain
circumstances can beemphasis on cana
liberating, even brave, act.
Forgive me if you already know what
ring-bracelets like Perels are called, but
when I Googled, I found these names: bel-
ly dancer bracelet; harem bracelet; and
the squirm-inducing but still often used
slave bracelet.
I have no idea whether the 59-year-old
Perel wore this accessory for its specific
associations, though in Mating in Captivity
she writes approvingly of S&M for those
with such proclivities: It seems to me that
rituals of domination and submission are a
subversive way to put one over on a society
that glorifies control, belittles dependency,
and demands equality. And it does seem
fitting for a woman who doesnt hide her
sensuality and whos a provocateur. Shes
willing to face the inflammatory issues,
says feminist psychologist Carol Gilligan,
who was in a writing group with Perel and
whose own pathbreaking book, A Different
Voice, about the relational- as opposed to
principle-based morality associated with
women and girls, inflamed more than a few
people in the 1980s. She seems to like do-
ing it. I say, more power to her.

IS INFIDELITY NECESSARY? Raised in Antwerp to Polish Holocaust

Couples therapist Esther Perel doesnt go quite that far
in her new book, The State of Affairs. But can straying be
reinvigorating and restorative to a marriage? Can a cheater
be a victim? Maybe. By Laurie Abraham
survivors who ran a clothing shop (and who
spoke German, Polish, Dutch, French, and
Yiddish between them), Perel went to He-
brew University in Jerusalem, where she
earned bachelors degrees in psychology and
French literature, and picked up yet another

E
nsconced with Esther Perel in the
velvet-cushioned luxury of the Soho
Grand Hotel, I cant stop looking at
the exquisitely slender gold-chain ring on
her left middle finger. From it trail deli-
cate gold skeins that caress the back of her
handa shower of fireworks, a waterfall
the three times we met, screams sex to me.
But am I crazy? Am I projecting onto this
marquee couples therapist? She wrote the
much-admired 2006 best-seller Mating in
Captivity, about the competing human de-
sires for safety versus adventure and how
monogamy too often exalts the former over
language, Hebrew. She came to the United
States for grad schoolher masters in ex-
pressive arts therapy is from Lesley Universi-
ty in Cambridge, Massachusetts, where she
also trained with family therapy visionary
Salvador Minuchinand never left the coun-
try. As she likes to say, she fell in love with
both New York City and her husband, Jack
Flora Hanitijo

captured in a bracelet around her wrist. the latter, extinguishing sexual vitality. Saul, now a Columbia University psycholo-
Something about this piece of jewelry, a Her intimate, you-are-there podcast of ac- gist who cofounded and runs a program for
version of which she was wearing each of tual couples therapy, called Where Should traumatized survivors of political violence.

242
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 In the decade since she wrote Mating,
Perel has crossed over into pop-psych
guru territory. Her two TED talks are ap-
proaching 20 million views combined; shes
taught at self-improvement juggernaut
Tony Robbinss exclusive Platinum Part-
nership events; shes a 2018 South by South-
west keynote speaker; andLena Dunham
blurbed The State of Affairs: Esther Perel
does nothing short of strip us of our deepest
biases. Thank heavens for this woman.
Among the sharp pokes Perel gives to
conventional wisdom in her new book is
to argue that an affair shouldnt necessar-
ily be singled out as the worst thing that a
married person can do to a spouse. What
about neglect, indifference, intimidation,
contempt, rejection, and disdain, Perel
writes. Arent these equally pernicious be-
trayals? The victim of the affair is not al-
ways the victim of the marriage.
That conclusion may sound unremark-
able in an era when we tend to conceptual-
ize marriage as a system, when phrases
like divorce is never just one persons
fault roll off the tongue. But Americans
do still seem to reserve special opprobri-
um for perpetrators of infidelity. (Even the
language is criminal; wed never say per-
petrators of indifference.) According to
results from the 2015 edition of the annu-
al Gallup poll of attitudes toward taboo
behaviors (such as premarital sex, suicide,
gay/lesbian relations, human cloning),
adultery occupies its own space, in terms
of public contempt. Over the past 15 years,
no more than one in ten U.S. adults has
ever judged extramarital trysts as moral.
Yet three-quarters of Americans consider
divorce acceptable.
Even in the presidential election, no-
body criticized Trump for leaving two
wivesI heard not one thing, Gilligan
notes. Esther writes about women who
wont even tell their friends if their hus-
band has an affairits so shameful to stay
with a man who did that. When my now
ex-husband decided to leave our marriage,
I remember almost wishing that hed cheat-
ed on me. It would make my story so sym-
pathetic, so immediately graspable: Yeah,
that bastard, he screwed another woman,
can you believe it?
While the popularity of infidelity obvi-
ously isnt newthough sex stats are notori-
ously unreliable, 21 percent of married men
and 13 percent of married women admit to
it, according to 2016 figures from the Uni-
versity of Chicagos National Opinion Re-
244
The American edition of Perels new book has
a tamer cover than some European editions.
I said, This is
your wife in full
force, telling you
how betrayed
she feelsand
passionate,
because she
loves you.
search CenterPerel theorizes that sexual
monogamy is becoming ever more prized.
There is nothing else for which you ac-
tually need to get married anymore, she
tells me in her killer Belgian French accent.
You dont need to be married to have sex,
to have children. You dont need to marry to
have economic stability. Sexual exclusivity
becomes the signage of our importance to
each other: This is the one thing Im going
to change for you. And the more hookup
culture we have, where you have a race to
the bottom for how meaningless sex can
be, the more you have an enshrinement of
exclusivity. These two forces are very much
in dialogue with each other.
Counseling people in eight languages, in
countries from Turkey to Israel to Switzer-
land, Perel has noticed that while its com-
mon across cultures to feel profoundly an-
gry and hurt by an affair (even in France!),
Americans compound the harm by layering
the act with moral outragea product of our
Puritan beginnings, she says. Perel also takes
issue with our insistence on viewing infidel-
ity solely through a trauma lens, calling the
approach narrowing, at best. Shes reacting
to the fact that some of the best-known psy-
chological work in recent years categorizes
affairs as attachment injuries, in which
the betrayed party is plagued by obsessive
thoughts, flashbacks, and other PTSD-like
symptoms. This is indeed true for some peo-
ple, especially in the initial aftermath, she
says, but its not true for everyone.
Just the day before, she confides, shed led
a couple through a coming clean session.
The wife began by thanking her husband
for copping to his extramarital activity, but
as they went on, you could see the rage
literally mounting, Perel says, her hands
chopping the air as she becomes the scorned
wife: You are mine, you belong to me
what were you doing? You lied to me. Then
she switches back to interpretative-shrink
mode: Basically she was the woman hed
been wanting for the last umpteen years!
Whom he was no longer seeing, because
she was busy working and being Miss Prag-
matist. And I said to him, You want this
woman? You have her. This is your wife in
full force, coming at you and telling you
how hurt she is and furious she is and how
betrayed she feelsand passionate, because
she loves you.
Not all infidelities fit this model, Perel
emphasizes. Sometimes there is little pos-
itive feeling or goodwill left to reactivate;
sometimes an affair is a love story that is
meant to be a life storyPerels shorthand
for when the unfaithful partner leaves
the marriage for the other woman or
man. But in this case, to speak to her as a
traumatized woman would have been one
direction; I chose to speak to her as a pas-
sionate woman fighting for her man.
Why is that better?
Because its way more empowering, she
says. Shes not a victim; she woke up, and
she knows on some level that she neglected
the guy and ignored herself and the relation-
ship for a while. He has her attentionun-
fortunately, sometimes this is what it takes.
It doesnt mean shes to blame for [his un-
faithfulness], or anything like that.
This seeming relativism has earned Perel
 Photographed by Tyler Joe

always on
her share of critics, like the blogger Chump
Lady: Leave a Cheater, Gain a Life, who
suggests that the barmy Belgian should
STFU. Prominent therapists, too, have
taken her on, among them Janis Abrahms
Spring, who wrote her own best-seller, After
the Affair. She recently told the Economist,
The reason my book has been so successful
is because it provided a language that cap-
tured the heart of the hurt party and made
them feel less crazy and alone. For Esther
or any therapist to in any way minimize
that pain is to retraumatize the traumatized
patient. (Perels response to that kind of
criticism? Theres nothing I need to add to
the trauma model; its all been said. I dont
dispute that frameworkI add to it.)
In fact, the therapeutic process Perel lays
out in The State of Affairs doesnt sound
all that different from Abrahms Springs.
First, in what Perel calls the fallout stage,
she guides couples to deal with the acute
feelings of violationrequiring adulterers
to deeply acknowledge their partners pain,
apologize repeatedly, and go out of their
way to rebuild trust.
Assuming a couple can move through this
phasePerel suggests that a trauma frame-
work can keep people mired in suffering
the pair moves on to what she calls mean-
ing making. Here, both spouses explore
the shortcomings of their marriage and/or
the individual psychology that drove one
woman to, say, have a prolonged fling with
the tattooed arborist who removed the tree
that went through her neighbors garage
after Hurricane Sandy. The cheater in this
case, from Perels book, is Priya: a physician
and mother of three who described herself
as having a wonderful relationship with
her husband, a man who was a phenom at
work, fucking handsome, [an] attentive lov-
er, fit. But unpacking her story with Perel,
Priya revealed herself to be an inveterate
good girl whod been raised in a strict In-
dian immigrant family and who always put
others first. So for her, the affair amounted
to a crisis of identity, a belated adoles-
cent rebellion.
While Perel doesnt endorse what Priya
did, she does have empathy for her. She
hears women, more than men, explain af-
fairs as quests for autonomy. Women say
I lost myself within the marriage, she
writes. With men, its I lost my woman.
Female sexuality often hinges on a kind
of narcissism, Perel posits. I am the turn-
on, the woman tells herself, thus freeing
herself from the burden of caretaking, of
246
The 2006 book about monogamy and
sex that put Perel on the map.
I am the turn-
on, the woman
tells herself.
Its narcissism in
the good sense.
It allows her
to focus on her
own pleasure.
having once again to respond to the wishes
and the needs of another. Its narcissism in
the good sense. It allows her to focus on
her own pleasure.
Perel helped Priya to gradually say a
proper good-bye to her lover, so as not to
deny all hed awakened in her, given her,
and returned to her husband without dis-
closing what shed done. This is another
way Perel diverges from many of her col-
leagues: Sometimes fessing up is the only
appropriate response, she writes; other
times, its sadistic. She cites the standard
of a Manhattan family therapist named
Lisa Spiegel: Ask yourself, is it honest, is it
helpful, and is it kind?
Perel is fundamentally a popularizer;
her two books are straightforwardly writ-
ten pastiches of the most sophisticated and
searching contemporary philosophizing
about love and sex. To characterize the
situation of Priya, for example, she quotes
the bracing analytic thinker Virginia Gold-
ner: Sex trades on the thrill of discovering
(over and over again) that we are unknown
to ourselves. What makes for the adven-
ture is not only the novelty of the Other,
although that helps, but the Otherness of
the self.
E
sther Perel is undeniably sexy. Prac-
tically everything written about her
notes her habit of tucking back her
highlighted blond hair as she speaks. The
day we meet at the Soho Grand, she wears
a cobalt-blue top that reveals tanned, toned
arms and matches both her distinctly spar-
kly eyes and her suede heeled sandals. She
is petite and very feminine, but she is the
opposite of coy. As I pay for our iced teas
post-interview, I watch her depart: Quick,
brisk, purposeful, her bike helmet swing-
ing at her side (she rides everywhere, she
says), she evokes in this moment nothing so
much as a teenage boy.
She also has an uncommon understand-
ing of and sympathy for the male point of
view. In a chapter that puts a fresh spin
on the stereotype that women just want
to connect and that men just want to get
laid, Perel calls sex the emotional ante-
chamber for men. Tenderness, softness,
vulnerabilitythe body is the place where
they have sought to satisfy these needs dis-
guised in a sexualized language. She risks
attracting the PC police when she seconds
veteran advice columnist Irma Kurtz, who
once lamented the trouble men have squar-
ing new expectations of emotional fluency
with old but still resonant expectations of
masculine toughness. Men are finding it
ever more difficult, Kurtz wrote in one of
her half-dozen books, to squeeze them-
selves and their erections into the shrink-
ing maneuvering space between being a
wimp and being a rapist.
When we talk, Perel digs further into
the male mind, explaining that shes been
fascinated by how frequently she hears
men say that nothing turns them on more
than when a woman gets hot for them. The
reason? The woman who comes in with
the miniskirt, with the fuck-me boots, the
woman whos on the screen and says more,
more, more, reassures the guy that hes
not a dirty, greedy bastard, Perel says.
She releases him from the predatory fear
that hes hurting or even raping his partner.
In our first conversation, at the offices
of ELLE, Perel recounted how shed ini-
tially disagreed with HarperCollins, her
American publisher, about the cover of her
book, showing a matchbox containing two
unlit matches, with a third leaning against
the sidethe marital interloper! Why, she
asked, couldnt one of the matches inside
the box be burnt (scorched by the third,
that is), as on the cover of the books Dan-
ish edition? (The State of Affairs is being
published in eight other languages.) After
all, the book is about how widespread and
in some ways unavoidable infidelity is. But,
Perel was told, better for the image to leave
open the possibility that the book was about
preventing out-of-wedlock sex, or at least
surviving it. In the end, she says, she came
around to the optimism of the American
approach: Even if one member of the cou-
ple goes outside of the monogamous box,
the marriage doesnt have to be over; the
flame can still be lit between the two.
Still, to read The State of Affairs is to
suspect that Perel wants us to reconsid-
er the expectation of sexual monogamy
root and branch. The soft version of this
claim comes early on in the book, when
she elucidates behaviors that some classi-
fy as cheatingswiping right on the phone
(just curious), Skyping live porn, visiting
a strip club. Echoing the themes in Mating,
she urges couples to ask, Do we expect our
partners erotic selves to belong entirely
to us? Some people view everything sex-
ual as a domain that must be shared. Dis-
covering that their partner masturbates or
still has feelings for an ex is tantamount to
betrayal. From another perspective, how-
ever, making space for some degree of erot-
ic individuality can convey a respect for
privacy and autonomy, and is a token of in-
timacy. Ive observed that those who are
most successful in keeping the erotic spark
alive are those most comfortable with mys-
tery in their midst.
Near the end of the book, Perel goes fur-
ther, addressing ethical nonmonogamy,
calling it a valiant attempt to tackle the
core existential paradoxes that every cou-
ple wrestles withsecurity and adventure,
togetherness and autonomy, stability and
novelty.
Even in her rendering, opening up a mar-
riage doesnt necessarily solve the problem
of infidelity. She describes how polyamor-
ists draw up elaborate contracts govern-
248
ing matters like how much time you spend
together; whether youre allowed to fall in
love with another or just have sex with him
or her; whether condoms are necessary in
outside encounters; and so on. My first
thought is that its all so bureaucratic and
unromantic. More than that, though, per-
mission to stray may not block betrayal
because, as Perel acknowledges, affairs
are often predicated on transgression, the
drive to break the rulesand polyamorist
setups tend to be welters of rules. No bet-
ter proof of that was a correction the New
York Times Magazine was forced to run to
its massive May cover story on polyamory:
Permission to
stray may not
block betrayal
because, as Perel
acknowledges,
affairs are
often predicated
on the drive to
break the rules.
Concerning a married couple in the piece
who live with their young daughter and the
wifes boyfriend, a man named Blake Wil-
son, it read, Blake Wilson and Joe Spurr
are equally involved in the day-to-day care
of Spurr and Zaeli Kanes child; Wilson
does not do more of it.
It so happens that such nonexclusive
arrangements arent completely out of
my ken. Perel promptly ferrets this out.
During an interview, she tells me, I
need to ask every journalist how their read-
ing [of my book] is going to be informed by
their life experience.
Suddenly our corner of the hotel closes
in, becomes more intimate: the consulting
room, and Im the client. I confess that Im
involved with a man who calls himself poly-
amorous, but although his wife of many
years and I are aware of each other, neither
of us is eager to meet (and forget about the
three of us falling into an amorous pile, as
the poly types like to call group sex). My ro-
mance with this man has been going on for
quite a while now, but its become harder for
me to sustain as weve become closer.
You want the husband, or do you want to
be the girlfriend? Perel blurts.
Well, Iwant both, I guess.
Its not the same; its not the same per-
son or the same road. Meaning as the girl-
friend, she says, You get the best of him.
You dont get him when he gets home and
puts himself on the couch.
Yes, Ive realized that one reward of our
system is that he focuses intently on me
when were togetherhes told me as much.
Then, too, the quasi-illicit nature of it, the
required splits, the so-called shadow of
the thirdall this cant help but create ex-
tra frisson between us.
And yet. The constant separations, the
requirement to live by his schedule, it wears
on me. More than wears, it tears.
You feel diminished? Perel probes.
Thats not quite it. Its more that he and
I are so connected that it seems unnatural
when he has to leave, I offer. As in, why
cant we just let this love go where it will,
like a river that gushes over a dry bed and
fills all the crevices and cracks and pocked
places. (Obviously, I dont have engulfment
fears!) And the truth is, Im not overly wor-
ried about losing the thrill if he were with
me full-time. Maybe Im deluding myself,
but while some people sexually gravitate to-
ward the unfamiliar, the more I know some-
one, the more vulnerable I allow myself to
feeland that feeds sexual intensity and
exploration: Im giving so much of myself,
Im so open, Im like, Ill go anywhere with
you, and then to have to close it down.
Ehhh. Listening to the tape of my conversa-
tion with Perel, I hear such aching bewilder-
ment in my voice.
You got your answer, she declares.
Thats it.
Not really, because Perel is not my ther-
apist, and I havent come to any firm de-
cisions about what to do with the ethical
nonmonogamist in my bed.
F
rom what shes written and said in
many talks and interviews, Perel
seems to want us to seriously con-
template treating marriage as a central emo-
tional (and practical) relationship of ones
life, but not the only one, and not always the
sexual fulcrum. She points out that some
people wouldnt mind the separations like
I do, that when the object of their affection
MY KIDS GIVE ME
STRENGTH TO
GET THROUGH
BREAST CANCER.
RESEARCH GIVES
ME HOPE I WILL.
MICHELLE
BCRF supporter, diagnosed in 2016
 Perels parents, Holocaust
survivors, understood the erotic
as an antidote to death, as in
they knew how to keep
themselves alive and enjoy.
left, theyd simply tell themselves, Now Ill
go back to my life for a few days. Im in my
own world, but I know hes around. Then
later, near the end of our time together,
she declaims: Is the marriage the source
of happiness, or the hub from which you
launch yourself into other sources that nur-
ture you? Is that okay?... Can the marriage
be adequate and people have the best part
of their life in their creativitytheir career,
their writing, their friendships, many other
things that matter?
When she says this, I cant help but think
shes describing something like her own
life, and I find myself wanting to lean into
this approachPerel is so persuasive and
CHRISTIAN TAYLOR
self-possessed and cosmopolitan. But then,
2 x WORLD CHAMPION Im the third, the match outside the box,
2 x OLYMPIC GOLD MEDALIST and I may be more like psychologist Harriet
Lerner, another mega-best-selling author
(The Dance of Anger and 11 other books),
than I wish. She wrote me a glowing e-mail
about PerelWe need her original and in-
telligent voice to push the boundaries of our
thinking and help us fire the sex cops who
have set up precincts in our headthat end-
ed with a kind of sigh: Yet for most of us,
that old-fashioned vow to forsake all others
is the glue that holds our marriage together,
and keeps us tethered to the earth.
To be clear, as with the bracelet, I have
no idea whether my projections about Perel
have a shred of accuracy. Not that I dont
try to find out how her marriage operates.
She ticks off reasons she declines to discuss
it: Because she and her husband have an
understanding that precludes it. Because
she prefers not to flaunt her sex life before
her two grown sons. Because her job as
a therapist is to help people think about
their lives, not react to mine. Because
she doesnt want to risk being written off
as sexually deviantas narrow-minded or
sexist as such de facto cultural credential-
ing may be, her status as a married woman
with children and a full-time job legiti-
mizes her to publish and speak on sex and
desire. Because there are no easy answers,
and what works for one person, or couple,
wont work for another.
But the primary reason, she says, is that
my background is way more important to
how I think and work than my sexual agree-
ments with my husband.
What shes referring to is the story of her
parents, whose experience makes adjec-
tives like horrendous seem ludicrously
insufficient. Each of them spent years us-
ing every whit of strength and ingenuity
they possessed to survive in Nazi concen-
tration camps, only to be freed and then
to literally meet on the road, in the stream
of refugees walking out of the camps, and
finally to discover that every other mem-
ber of their families had been killedher
mothers gassed in Treblinka, her fathers
in Auschwitz.
There were always two groups of fam-
ilies in my community, Perel told self-
help author Tim Ferriss in a lengthy and
revealing interview on his podcast. There
was one group that did not die and one
group that came back to life. And the did
not die, you could feel it when you went to
their houses. They often had plastics over
their couches, and the curtains were pulled
down. It was morbid. As for her parents,
They were bons vivants.They didnt sur-
vive for nothing. They understood the erot-
ic as an antidote to death, as in they knew
how to keep themselves alive and enjoy.
That legacy, Perel said on her podcast,
led her to intellectually engage with What
is eroticism? How do people connect to
joy, to love, to pleasure, to beauty, to adven-
ture, to mystery?
Her passionate disquisition on this sub-
ject reminds me of one of my favorite quotes
from the British analyst and epigrammatic
philosopher Adam Phillips, which Perel
includes in her book: At its best monoga-
my may be the wish to find someone to die
with; at its worst it is a cure for the terrors of
aliveness. They are easily confused.
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GET
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 ASK E. JEAN
Cluelessness all around this month:
A fat-ist husband, a selfie-obsessed
photographic object, and women with
eyes for someone elses man
ITS THE IDIOT
MEETS CINDERELLA
DEAR E. JEAN: Im married to a handsome,
exciting, and very fit man. Weve had our ups
and downs, but in general were seen as one of
those supercouples, and at times it feels that
way, too. But heres the
thing: He constantly fat-
STAY MARRIED/GET DIVORCED THEOREM
ideas about how I could lose weight and
tone up. I love him, but this makes me want
to leave him. Weve built such a great life to-
gether (I didnt mention the two wonderful,
nearly grown kids); I dont think I could actu-
ally do it. What I want is just for once to feel
beautiful in his presence.
Soft in the Middle
kicking you across the kitchen floor, Miss
Soft, but hes dislocating your very essence.
When youve asked him to stop, you say he
gets very angry, turns it aroundgets mad
at youand says you just dont understand
how important it is to him.
Therefore, what he has to do is find out
why its so necessary to him to have a scraw-
ny, underweight, under-his-thumb wife. And

Gregg Delman (styled by Christian Stroble; hair by Eduardo Carrasco at Ford Artists NYC; makeup by Sylwia Rakowska at Ford Artists NYC)
shames me, to the point that Miss SoftHail, Brilliant you have to find the courage to make the
hes hardly been able to look a c Woman: When I saw your decision to leave the marriage.
at me naked for years. He Dump him name on the e-mail, I
Hes gone through periods
tells
you
immediately
was stunned. Im a fan of GET SMART
where it gets so bad that he youre yours. It doesnt happen DEAR E. JEAN: Its almost 3 a.m., and Im
fat
appears physically ill if I often that I have books on having an existential crisis. Ill explain why:
walk out of the bathroom my shelves written by the I am 27 years old, and I dont know what to
without a towel. He often very person whos writing do with my life. Im well educatedI finished
tells me that certain clothes b to me, so if you dont mind, a degree in political science and internation-
dont look good on me, and Hell only have sex with let me ask you for advice. al relations, and I have two masters degrees
you in the dark
heckles me over my wrinkles If your daughter began (yes, I love being in the academic world). But
and acne. Maybe once a dating a guy who called right now, I have no idea what I should focus
year I get his ultimate com- a2 + b2 = c 2 her fat, and hounded on. Plus, Ive never worked before.
pliment: You look nice. her about acne, and tor- Im talented in writing, drawinganything
I work out five days a week and eat healthily, mented her to tone up, and looked phys- related to the artsbut I am also brilliant in
but whether Im extremely fit or have a few ex- ically ill when she put on a swimsuit, what the study of politics, national security, and
tra pounds around my middle doesnt seem to would you advise her? diplomacy. Furthermore, I am passionate
make a difference. Would you tell her to stay with him until about the film industry, and Ive had dreams
Our sex life is surprisingly good, consider- she feels beautiful in his presence? Or of becoming an actress. I speak six languages
ing. Yes, the lights have to be out, but there are would you tell her to give him a running kick as fluently as my mother tongue, and I am
still plenty of fireworks, and he initiates things out the door? learning another one right now. Currently,
on a regular basis. One more question, Miss Soft: What im- Im abroad finishing my studies, and soon I
Last weekend it was 90 degrees, and I wore age of womanhood is your husband pre- must return home. After traveling and living
a bikini. Since then, he hasnt stopped with the senting to your kids with his flood of abuse overseas for so long, I dont have many con-
So-and-sos wife lost a ton of weight by elim- toward you? His pestering you about wrin- tacts at home, and I am not sure if I can even
inating bread from her diet. I bought a new kles? His anger at your getting older? His ir- find a decent job without any experience. I
dress that looks better on me than anything rational badgering about your weight, your feel lost, anxious, and scared. Please help!
Ive worn in years, and when I put it on, he clothes, your skin, your looks? What should I do?
simply looked away with a pained expression When I say irrational, what I actually Very Lost Young Intellectual
on his face. mean is insane. Because Ive seen recent
My patience is now zero. Im heading to- photos of youyou, the disappointing, fat Lost, My Young Lemur: Wellnow. As
ward my midforties and I try talking to him wife who must live like a mole rat in the dark youve left it to me, and as you seem to have
about it, but he gets very angry, turns it and dare not show herself nakedand (of no idea how really spectacular you could
around, and says, You just dont understand course!) it turns out youre slim. And very be, and as you must take a shot at some-
how important it is to me. Then he shuts spectacular and attractive to look at. thing, and as your country needs youafter
down completely. Or, worse, he starts offering He may not be dislocating your jaw and long contemplation of your superb ability

252
to hype your accomplishments while at the
same time being scared out of your skull
about your future, I suggest you join the
Central Intelligence Agency. I am serious.
Your international relations degree, politi-
cal savvy, diplomacy skills, and acting gifts
argue for you becoming one of the great
analysts (i.e., spies) of your generation. Hell,
Im surprised the CIA or DynCorp hasnt
contacted you already.
Brilliant careers happen when you com-
bine powers. Six languages are good. Six lan-
guages combined with security knowledge
are fabulous. Would you like an IRL example?
Cathy Kangas is the founder and CEO of
Prai Beauty. Yes, her famous Platinum Firm
& Lift cream makes one look dewier than
Marianne Dashwood as shes being carried
down the hill by Willoughby. But does Miss
Cathy stop at de-wattling the necks of wom-
en around the globe? Ha! This stick of blond
dynamite combines her talent for continual-
ly selling out Prai night creams on HSN with
her passion for saving animals. The woman
actually, get this, cleared out a Tampa Bay,
Florida, animal shelter in less than four
hours by arranging for Prai Beauty to pay all
the adoption fees. Cathy Kangas and Prai
have gone on to pay adoption fees and emp-
ty shelters in California, Kansas, Missouri,
Tennessee, and New York. Watch Prai Beau-
ty Free the Shelters on YouTube.
You see, Miss Lost, when you combine a
talent with a passion, you create a new force
in the world. Stay optimistic, and let me know
how your interviews at Langley are going.
SELFISH WITH
THE SELFIES
DEAR E. JEAN: One of my close friends takes
amazing picturesof herself. As long as she
looks good, she doesnt seem to care that ev-
eryone else looks like overexposed blobs with
eyeballs. And that photo with me looking
sweaty and short? Its definitely ending up
on Instagram. How do I deal with her?
Grinning but Not Bearing It
Q: E. Jean, do you believe its necessary to forgive an
injustice (no matter how angry you are) to be healthy?
A: No. You must use your anger at an injustice
to galvanize changes in the world. (But you can
forgive a blunder by a blockheaded lover.)
Grinning, My Gladiolus: Now, now. She
probably thinks you look good. One wom-
ans sweaty and short is another wom-
ans glowing Olsen twin. At any rate, your
friend is fatigued from performing the
Herculean labor of choosing the photo she
looks best in. Let the poor chick have her
moment while you take a look at:
AUNTIE EEEES INSTAGRAM
WELLNESS PROGRAM
1. Since everybody else on Instagram is
too busy worrying about how she looks in
her friends photos to notice you in your
friends, when a photo of you looking like
Cujo eating his dinner appears on a friends
grid, ignore it.
2. If its really horrendous, text the person
and ask her to remove it. (Of course, youll
come off as a shallow, uptight twit more
fixated on your looks than she is.)
3. In 20 years, youll like any photo of your-
self at this age. In 30 years, youll marvel at
your beauty; in 40 years, at your ignorance.
4. If a friend posts a photo of you on In-
stagram Storieswhich disappear in 24
hoursthe image will be absolutely perfect.
5. Anyway, its not the photo; its your re-
action to the photo that causes you pain or
pleasure.
6. While youre alive, Miss Grinning, be
alive! There are features of your life far
more bewitching than your photos on that
blasted Instagram.
Your Auntie Eeee is the Henry David
Thoreau of Instagram. I live in the woods
and like to front only the essential facts
of life, rather than looking at life shot
through a filter. So I avoid Instagram most
of the time. But when I do drop by and no-
tice that an acquaintance has posted a pho-
to that makes me look like something that
crawled out from under a rock, I praise the
hell out of it in the comments. OMG! Flaw-
less! So gorgeous! Never have I appeared
more than twice as beautiful as you (emoji,
emoji, emoji), and here I look six times
more beautiful at least!
HEY, IM WALKIN HERE!
DEAR E. JEAN: One thing Ive adored about
my husband from the start is that he likes
womenand not in a ladies-man kind of way.
Not only does he relate to the women in his
family, he genuinely understands women. And
women like him, too. Hes extremely charming,
chivalrous, intelligent, and good-looking in a
young Hugh Grant way.
As for me, remember Myrna Loy in The Thin
Man? Her husband, Nick, is consoling a bereft
young woman in an embrace when Nora walks
in. You expect her to pitch a fitbut instead, she
wrinkles her nose at him and offers the young
woman a drink. Well, thats me.
Heres my problem. Women hang all over
my husband. Even when Im standing right
there. At parties, at work, on the street. They
just come up and hit on him. (We work at the
same company, but in different departments.)
And its beginning to really bug me. He handles
it as he always has: Hes not flirtatious. Hes
polite and pleasant, with a wry sense of humor.
Ive asked him to try to control it, but he thinks
Im being ridiculous.
Why would anyone dangle herself in front
of him? Im not talking subtle; Im talking
blatant! I know the man cant help being cat-
nip, but I want to kitty-claw these heinous
women! As thats not an optionwhat do I
say to these females?
Dont Want to Ruin a Good Thing
Ruin, My Rutabaga: Bah! Dont do anything.
Your lads got this. At a party in Montana, in
my own kitchen, I once watched two inebri-
ated cowgirls pin my first husband against
the sink and try to pull his shirttail out of
his jeans. Seeing the difficulty immediately,
I stepped in and said, Dont you think we
should undo the belt buckle first, ladies?
The cowgirls whooped with laughter like
screech owls, the husband said something
gallant, and the moral of this story is: You
have a good chap there, Miss Ruin. Keep
your head while all the dames about you are
losing theirs.
If, however, you insist on doing something,
the wise woman knows when to remain silent.
Simply stride over, link your arm through
his, and smile at your fellow broads like the
fairy-tale lass who just got all the pudding.
Ask a question! E.Jean@AskEJean.com or
Twitter.com/ejeancarroll. Read past columns at
ELLE.com/life-love/ask-e-jean/. You can watch
videos, write with anonymity, and exchange
genius tips on Advice Vixens at AskEJean.com.
And if youd like a date: Tawkify.com.
253
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 WILD
THOUGHTS
Sometimes you need to get
away from it all for a change of
perspective. In that spirit, we
headed to upstate New York with
some of the seasons craftiest
fashion, and air-dropped Valentino
creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli
into the uncharted territory of
Manhattans most famous deli.
Even Rihanna, our chameleonic
Viscose dress, $710, crystal,
cover girl, entered another
Laurie Bartley

leather, and metal necklace, $690,

both, loewe, loewe.com. Acrylic- dimensionmetamorphosing into
blend hat, marni, $710. Calfskin
handbag, cline, $5,500. a full-fledged work of art, with
For details, see Shopping Guide. Slve Sundsb behind the lens.

255
 THE
TOTALITY Lets just call Rihanna what she is: the coolest woman on the planet
with beauty, talent, attitude, and personal style to spare. Here, the global megastar
answers questions from a cross-section of her famous fans.
Reporting by Jennifer Vineyard
PHOTOGRAPHED BY SLVE SUNDSB STYLED BY DAVID VANDEWAL

S omewhere between releasing her debut single Pon de

Replay (to blitzkrieg effect) in 2005 and sitting down
to discuss international education with Emmanuel Ma-
cron in 2017, Rihanna has become much more than a pop star.
The music is still absolutely vital, yesher eighth album, Anti,
which has been kicking up dust on the dance charts since it
dropped last year, was deemed by Forbes to be one of the most
successful recordings of all timebut as an icon, she represents
something far greater: what a woman can achieve when she
tackles her career, and her life, on her own terms. Rihanna is
always fearlessly, unapologetically herself, whether shes mak-
ing maverick fashion choices on the red carpet, calling out body
shamers, or adding yet another unmistakably RiRi-stamped en-
deavor to her string of (singer-actress-designer-entrepreneur-
philanthropist-etcetera-etcetera) hyphenates. We can now add
beauty mogul to that list. The singer has poured her uncompro-
mising attitude into a much-awaited makeup line, Fenty Beauty
by Rihanna, poised to launch with a big bang of 91 products on
September 8 at Sephora (expect lines) and on the brands web-
site (Internet = broken). Its focus, perhaps surprisingly from a
practiced maquillage peacock who has been known to rock vivid
blue and ink-black lipstick with defiant f lair, is gleaming, sat-
iny, f lawless skin, built around an assortment of user-friendly
highlighting and contouring sticks, and a whopping 40 shades
of foundation. The biggest void Ive found in the industry is the
lack of variety in foundation shades, Rihanna tells us. Thats
one of the things that was most important to meto make sure
everyone was included. Its a nod, too, to the complexion-
perfecting gateway drug that ushered the Barbados native into
beauty in the first place: Foundation was the first product I
ever owned, she says. It was like magic, and Ive been in love
with makeup ever since. Avidly hands-on throughout the col-
lections development, Rihanna helmed everything from the
playful name selection (theres a gold powder highlighter, for
instance, dubbed Trophy Wife) to the packaging, which, like its
creator, is multifaceted, with tough, graffiti-inspired outer box-
es opening onto sleek, streamlined, sweetly pretty individual
products. There are plenty of options out there when it comes
to makeup, Rihanna says. My approach with Fenty Beauty
was just to do things my way.April Long

256
 PVC coat, $3,995, helmet,
$895, both, dolce &
gabbana, at select Dolce
& Gabbana boutiques
nationwide. Intarsia viscose
bodysuit, givenchy,
$1,660. For details, see
Shopping Guide.

257
19 QUESTIONS FOR
RIHANNA, FROM 20 OF
HER FRIENDS AND FANS
tyra banks, Model/Entrepreneur:
Youre so successful and surrounded
by people who want to please you.
Who gives it to you straight? For me,
its my mama.
rihanna: They all fake, LOL, and
fired!
eminem, Rapper: You dont seem like
youre ever thinking about trends when
you go in the studio, yet you end up
setting them. What are you looking at
when you start your recording process?
rihanna: I rarely know exactly what
I want to do, but always know exactly
how I want it to make me feel. Feeling
always leads the sound!
wyclef jean, Rapper: The last time
I saw you was at the World Cup. If you
could be any football player in the
world, who would it be?
rihanna: Cristiano Ronaldo. But
then again, Beckham did marry Posh
Spice.
laura kim and fernando
garcia, Designers, Oscar de la Renta:
Whats your best vintage find?
rihanna: On New Years Eve, 2016,
I bought this costume from 1952 that
was worn in the movie Singin in the
Rain.
tricky stewart, Record Producer:
Do you remember the first time a
crowd gave you goose bumps singing
all the lyrics to your song in concert?
rihanna: Yes! I was on tour, and the
whole crowd started singing Take a
Bow word for wordto the point that I
couldnt even sing. They performed the
entire song for me.
april bloomfield, Chef: What
do you cook when you want a little
comfort?
rihanna: Bajan macaroni pie, which
is our version of a baked mac n cheese. Gold-tone brass earring, $280, sable
jersey boots, $995, all, balenciaga,
zac posen, Designer: Whats your at Balenciaga, NYC. Gold stud earring,
secret family recipe? spinelli kilcollin, $600. Vermeil
rihanna: Its a secret! LOL. But they rings, charlotte chesnais, $1,135
(for set of three). Her own small hoop
make a mean cook-up and pepper earring, worn throughout. For details,
pot. Both are Guyanese recipes. see Shopping Guide.

258
 Rihanna is todays most fascinating
performer, a mysterious amalgam of amiable
warmth and glittering charisma. With her
keen creative eye for line and color, she has
become a fashion icon, like Audrey Hepburn.
Yet she is a tempestuous wild child and
international adventuress, like Ava Gardner.
Most importantly, as an artist in this
overmechanized age, she bravely draws on
deep wells of pure emotion, endearing her to
millions of fans worldwide.
Camille Paglia, Author/Critic

259
 Rihanna brings global gumbo to
the culture. Her voice unites the
world through positive music vibes.
Wyclef Jean, Rapper
 I love Rihanna. I love
that she is herself with no
apologies. Her sense of
style and self is unique. I
love how she transforms
herself with each album,
each campaign. Always
evolving. A true icon.
Venus Williams, Tennis Champion
262
Metal and leather earrings,
fendi, $495, fendi.com.
Mirror-foil PVC neck plate,
gijs bakker, $10,000. For
details, see Shopping Guide.
Hair by Yusef at Factory Downtown
for Rich Hair Care; makeup by
James Kaliardos for Fenty Beauty;
manicure by Kimmie Kyees at
celestineagency.com for Defy
& Inspire; produced by Tommy
Romersa at Joy Asbury Productions;
fashion assistant: Daniel Gaines
jacquie aiche, Jewelry Designer: Whats
your favorite body part?
rihanna: Well, my favorite body parts on
pretty much any woman are the collarbone
and shoulders.
charli xcx, Singer/Songwriter: Whats
your ultimate karaoke song?
rihanna: Bon Jovi, Livin on a Prayer;
Journey, Dont Stop Believin; Brandy and
Monica, The Boy Is Mine.
danielle steel, Best-Selling Author:
I love your shoe passion, especially your
collaboration with Manolo Blahnik. How
much of the designing do they let you do?
rihanna: They really give me all the cre-
ative freedom I could ask for, but of course
I have this unique opportunity to work with
Mr. Blahnik himself, so his expertise is
always more than welcome!
kelly fields, Chef (Willa Jean, New
Orleans): Your preferences in fashion and
art appear to embrace the entire scale of
highbrow/lowbrowwhich is how I like to
cook. Id love to know if your preferences in
munchies run along that same scale?
rihanna: You mean KFC on a private jet is
not normal?
laverne cox, Actress: Youve had so many
iconic fashion moments and take so many
risks. The CFDA Awards Adam Selman
dress in 2014what gave you the courage
to take that risk that was so perfect and
elegant yet daring?
rihanna: Dear Laverne, I took advantage
of my titties before they go south. I saw my
window, and I took it.
pharrell williams, Musician/
Producer: Youre a pluralist in every sense
of the word. Did you always have these
dreams to do so many things, in addition
to being an artist? Or have you just figured
that out along the way that there are other
things you can do very well?
rihanna: Ive always been a dreamer
or lets just say I kept my options open. In
my heart, I knew singing was gonna be in
my future, but I considered psychology,
hairdressing, banking, teaching, acting,
modeling, aviation, and philanthropy. I just
didnt know Id pretty much be doing all of
these things eventually!
gary ross, Director, Oceans 8: Whats
the first thing I should do when I get to
Barbados?
rihanna: [Fast-food] Chefette and a rum
punch!
david copperfield, Magician: Im not
Rihannas MTV 2016 VMA
performances were groundbreaking, paradigm-
shifting moments in female swag. She represents
badassery, positive self-esteem, and honesty in a great
way. She is powerful and vulnerable simultaneously,
which makes her a revolutionary. Yes, shes sexy,
but once shes got your attention, I dont think
you can ignore what shes saying to you: She is
curated and deliberate without feeling staged, and
her intent is as real as anything out there.
I respond to her as a writer, a woman, and a fan.
Courtney Kemp, Showrunner/Creator, Power (Starz)
kidding, this is a real offer: I can make you the near future? Id like to get to know you
disappear and reappear anywhere in the better. (Not hitting on you.)
world. Where do you want to go, and why? rihanna: Your place or mine?
rihanna: Ten minutes before I lost my
virginityand Im holding you to that offer. We need your insight as the proprietor of
LOL. Fenty Beauty:
emilio vitolo, Restaurateur (Emilios elle: When did you first wear lipstick?
Ballato, New York City): Whats the name of rihanna: Lipstick always got me in trou-
the soup dish thats the most popular in our ble. Whether it was at home as a kid, or
region of Italy? my early teenage years in my career, I
rihanna: Its my favorite on your menu always had the urge to wear it. So I broke
pasta e fagioli. all those rules. Now lipstick is like my lil
a$ap rocky, Rapper: Tupac, Bob Marley, secret weapon!
and Time: Fuck? Marry? Kill?
elle: What is the craziest thing youve
rihanna: Shit, well, we stay killing Time. ever done/tried for beauty? Would you do
Fuck Tupac. Marry Bob, duh.
it again?
olivia wilde, Actress: Whats the most rihanna: A corset! Id do it again, though.
valuable mistake youve learned from? Id wear it every day if I could make it out
rihanna: No cheese for Jay Brown before alive!
a flight.
elle: What makes you feel dressy/done,
patricia field, Stylist: Would you con- beautywise?
sider having a cocktail with me sometime in rihanna: My finishing touch is usually my
highlighter. I love highlighterit just adds
this sense of fantasy to any look.
What is incredible elle: Of all the celebrities youve met, who
smells the best?
about Rihanna is that rihanna: [Photographers] Inez and
in a world facing a dead- Vinoodh! Inez smells delicious. She actually
gifted me her scent, because I always asked
ening crisis of leadership her about it.
and the constant nega- elle: Whos your hair idol?
tion of creative efforts, rihanna: This is probably confusing to
most, but its in between Toni Braxton from
her music globally moves back in the day with all her short haircuts
and inspires us to be and Cindy Crawford. She had the most
completely alive without effortless yet stunning hair.
restrictions or prohibi- elle: Whos your makeup idol?
rihanna: I have to go with Veruschka. She
tions.Richard Phillips, Artist made makeup look like silk!
263
 THE ELLE
PERSONAL
STYLE
AWARDS
2017!
You may think that personal style is a wholly subjective gift: You know
it when you see it, sure, but when it comes to choosing who does it
best...how do you decide? For our annual personal style awards, we
took a democratic approach, enlisting 17 style luminariesdesigners,
actors, industry players, and more (read about their fashion revelations
on page 90)to tell us whos really got it going on. Here, we bring
you the result: 12 genre-smashing sartorial heavyweights whose
wardrobes telegraph an eye for beauty, a fearless knack for
statement-making, and a deep streak of individuality.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAYMION MARDEL, HEATHER HAZZAN, AND MARK SELIGER
STYLED BY YASHUA SIMMONS

264
The Rebel With a Cause
PARIS JACKSON
Model; Actress
I like to stick with earth tones and
tie-dye. Stevie Nicks, Janis Joplin,
and Jimi Hendrix are my top three
fashion iconsthey all wore what
felt good on them, period. Which I
love. Staying true to yourself is im-
portant in every aspect, even down
to your clothes.
Cotton tank, saint laurent by
anthony vaccarello, $490,
at Saint Laurent, NYC. Corduroy
pants, matthew adams dolan,
$550. Suede leather ankle boots,
christian louboutin, $1,895. Her
own jewelry. Stylists own belt. For
details, see Shopping Guide.
Photographed by Mark Seliger
Beauty Secret: For mussed volume,
flip hair upside down and mist
with tresemm Ultra Fine Hair
Spray. For more info, see page 294.

265
The Globe-Trotting Glamourist
AURORA JAMES
Founder and Creative Director,
footwear label Brother Vellies
I love embellishment. A black pump
is great, but its a lot better when you
can have feathers on it and not take
yourself so seriously. My fashion
sensibility is very eclectic but also
multicultural. Traveling really opens
your eyes: Well, what does a uniform
look like in Indonesia? What does a
kimono represent for certain people?
Embellished-Lurex jacquard jacket,
gucci, at select Gucci stores
nationwide. Silk georgette dress,
ulla johnson, $750. Beaver felt
and turquoise hat, nick fouquet,
$1,175. Diamond and rose gold ring,
brother vellies.
Photographed by Daymion Mardel

266
The Model of Elegance
CAROLYN MURPHY
Model
My style is definitely influenced
by the 70s, when I grew up, and
by my motherthe lesson from
her was just effortlessness: Know
what you know, like a great white
button-down, a great pair of jeans. I
dont like things that are fussy. For
me, a gold hoop or even a red lip is a
way to dress something up.
Cotton tunic, the row, $3,690, at
The Row, L.A. Her own earrings. For
details, see Shopping Guide.
Photographed by Heather Hazzan

267
The Punk Protagonist
NOAH CYRUS
Singer
I found my look very recently.
It kind of came from finding
Instagrammers whose style I
like. One of my favoritesher
handle is @uglyworldwide
shaved her head, shaved her
eyebrows. Shes not afraid to
be like, F*** what people think
about me. I think it should be
all about feeling comfortable in
your skin.
Cotton T-shirt, raf simons,
$289, rafsimons.com. Mesh top,
creatures of comfort, $225.
Brass and crystal crown, dolce
& gabbana, $3,875. Mink and
gold hoop earrings, wild and
woolly, $315. Diamond and
horn ring, pascale monvoisin,
$745. Red enamel and diamond
ring, marc alary, $1,200. Lam
herringbone waist bag, chanel,
$3,900. Calfskin boots, victoria
beckham, $1,995. Her own
bracelet.
Photographed by Daymion Mardel
Beauty Secret: The ultimate
flyaway defense, tresemm
Keratin Smooth Heat Defense
Spray keeps straight styles sleek.
For more info, see page 295.

268
Rulebreaker-in-Chief
TRACEE ELLIS ROSS
Actress, Blackish
I used to love watching my
mom [Diana Ross] get ready to
go out for the evening. Glamour
and sparklesthe energy of
what happened onstage in
her full glorywas translated
differently when she was going
to dinner. That left such an im-
pression, that through clothing
you could articulate how you
are in the world. Even at work, I
come in at five in the morning,
I get dressed. Theres always a
thing. Im not somebody whos
like, Oops, this is just some-
thing I have on.
Leather and suede jacket, prada, at
select Prada boutiques nationwide.
Yellow and rose gold and sapphire
ring necklace, monica rich
kosann, $2,885. Her own vintage
T-shirt and Cline corduroy pants.
For details, see Shopping Guide.
Photographed by Daymion Mardel

269
The Menswear Magician
SOPHIE AUSTER
Singer-Songwriter
The suit has definitely become a
performance uniform for me. When
I first adopted the look, it made me
feel very powerful and cool, like I
could be a better version of myself.
Its funny with clothing: A wispy
dress can make you feel more vul-
nerable, and a very structured coat
and pants can make you feel stron-
ger. I like to embrace my strength.
Silk jacket, $2,080, trousers, $1,670,
both, haider ackermann,
haiderackermann.com. Vintage T-shirt,
saint luis, $2,000. Silver earrings,
trademark, $228. Velvet scarf,
echo, $39. Vintage Herms gold circle
pendant necklace, beladora, $1,950.
Lapis lazuli, sapphire, diamond, and
gold pendant necklace, retrouva,
$1,775. Gold and diamond rings, both,
temple st. clair, $2,950$3,500
each. Gold and diamond multiband
ring, elsa peretti for tiffany
& co., $2,000. Leather brogues,
churchs, $660. Her own watch.
Photographed by Heather Hazzan

270
The Modern Bombshells
ATLANTA
DE CADENET TAYLOR
Model; DJ
AMANDA DE CADENET
Photographer; Media Entrepreneur;
TV Host, The Conversation
Atlanta, daughter: Im totally not a min-
imalist. I love color; I love floral prints. I
have a body, so I have to highlight my best
parts, and one of them is my waist. When
I was younger, I envied the norm, the
very thin girl. Thats what was in. Its awe-
some that its changing, and Im finally
learning to accept and love my body.
Amanda, mother: Clothes from differ-
ent eras fit me way better, because Im
supercurvy. And the fabric! I love lace; I
love velvet; I love chiffon. Mostly Ill wear
vintage dresses, like gingham dresses,
and accessorize with contemporary
designersAlaa, Marc Jacobs, Tabitha
Simmons.
On Atlanta de Cadenet Taylor: Leather
jacket, balenciaga, $3,350, at select
Barneys New York stores nationwide.
Embroidered-suede dress, coach 1941,
$1,400. Silk head scarf, rockins, $150.
Gold and diamond ring, david yurman,
$2,200. Turquoise cabochon ring, fox &
bond, $485. Black enamel and gold ring,
marc alary, $950. Her own earrings
and necklaces. On Amanda de Cadenet:
Chiffon dress, alberta ferretti, $2,890,
collection at barneys.com. Her own earrings
and ring. For details, see Shopping Guide.
271
Photographed by Daymion Mardel
The New Bohemian
KELLY ROWLAND
Singer
One of my first big purchases in
the early-2000s Destinys Child
days was a pair of thigh-high Dolce
& Gabbana denim boots. I was 18
or 19, and they made me feel a little
more grown-up, a little more sexy.
I wore them everywhere: during
performances, on tour, on days off.
My friend was like, Youre wearing
them too much. I said, Do you
know how much money I paid for
these boots? Theyre going to walk
for themselves!
Lace dress, ellery, $4,995, ellery
.com. Lace bodysuit, eres, $755.
Rose gold, horn, and diamond ring,
pascale monvoisin, $505. Pav,
onyx, mother-of-pearl, and gold ring,
marc alary, $4,200. Calfskin
boots, fendi, $1,350. Her own
earrings and necklace.
Photographed by Daymion Mardel
Beauty Secret: A corona of curls gets
big-time radiance from tresemm
Keratin Smooth Shine Serum. For
more info, see page 296.
The California Cool Girl
KATE BOSWORTH
Actress
I was a late 80s and 90s kid, so it
was all about the Keds and Levis.
In the 90s, I looked to people
like Carolyn Bessette Kennedy
and Lauren Hutton. I remember
desperately wanting to be a Calvin
girlto me, thats the epitome of
class, a truly stripped-back, pure
beauty. My father worked in the
fashion industry, and hed always
say, If you stay classical, youll
always be timeless. You can
look at a photograph of Bessette
Kennedy wearing jeans and a
blue-ish sweater and loafers, and
its just as relevant today.
Cotton-blend shirt, closed, $196,
closed.com. Levis denim jeans,
re/done, $305. Gold and champagne
diamond signet ring, jessica biales,
$2,000. Canvas sneakers, the row,
$650. For details, see Shopping Guide.
Photographed by Daymion Mardel
Beauty Secret: To achieve
wind-whipped texture, work
tresemm Beauty-Full Volume
Mousse into lengths; massage at
the root for major lift. For more
info, see page 297.

273
The Architecturalist
CASEY LEGLER
Artist
I moved around a lot as a kid, and
very early on, I understood that
what you wore that had value in one
culture held no value in another
culturethere was a relativism that
gave me the freedom to actually
wear what I wanted. In my closet
there are Dickies, a bunch of white
T-shirts, black T-shirts, and different
kind of socks. I was an architecture
student in school, so I appreciate the
building of garments and anything
thats classic and simple.
Her own hat, shirt, watch, ring, and
Dickies pants.
Photographed by Heather Hazzan

274
The Mix Master
MIRANDA JULY
Filmmaker; Writer; Artist
Ive always felt comfortable when
I get dressed if theres something
just off enough; I guess that
kind of describes my work, too. It
doesnt all come from confidence;
it all kind of plays from your unique
insecurities and your confidence
that makes you, you. It cant all be
bulletproof or its just boring.
On loving clothes: Its healthy to
have some things purely for joy.
Wool-blend jacket, self-portrait,
$595, collection at shopbop.com.
Mesh top, priscavera, $175. Gold
chain, $450, locket, $2,025, both,
tiffany & co. Wool-blend socks,
maria la rosa, $57. Leather
pumps, saint laurent by
anthony vaccarello, $1,995.
Her own bracelet, Atelier Boutique
skirt, and vintage Nike T-shirt. For
details, see Shopping Guide.
Photographed by Daymion Mardel

Photographed by Daymion Mardel (hair by

Ramsell Martinez at Lowe & Co for R+Co;
makeup by Fiona Stiles at Starworks Artists
for Fiona Stiles Beauty; manicure by Emi Kudo
at Opus Beauty for Chanel; produced by Nick
Trice; fashion assistant: Mark Paul Barro);
photographed by Heather Hazzan (hair by Herv
at Sarah Laird for Davines; makeup by Christian
McCulloch at Streeters for Chanel; manicure by
Kelly B at De Facto for Dior; fashion assistant:
Taylor Hicks); photographed by Mark Seliger
(hair by Herv at Sarah Laird for Davines;
makeup by Ayami Nishimura at the Wall Group
for Nars Cosmetics; manicure by Kelly B at De
Facto for Dior; fashion assistant: Taylor Hicks)

275
 SHELL TAKE
MANHATTAN
With a pair of new films and an album on tap,
perennial style iconand newly minted New
YorkerCharlotte Gainsbourg lends her
trademark mystique to Ian Schragers new
downtown hot spot, the Public Hotel
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARK SELIGER
STYLED BY SAMIRA NASR
 Strass-embroidered wool shirt,
trousers, $990, both, saint
laurent by anthony
vaccarello, at Saint Laurent,
NYC. Tulle lace bra, yasmine
eslami, $77. Calfskin ankle boots,
isabel marant, $910. Her own
necklace, worn throughout. For
details, see Shopping Guide.

277
Faux-leather top, belted
skirt, both, louis
vuitton, at select Louis
Vuitton stores nationwide.

Beauty Secret: For an eye-

brightening, soft smolder,
line lids with charlotte
gainsbourg for nars
Kohliner in Zinc.
Lace bodysuit, $1,690, wool and tulle skirt, $2,690, velvet boots, $1,790, all, saint laurent by anthony vaccarello,
at Saint Laurent, NYC. Tulle lace bra, yasmine eslami, $77. Her own bracelet. For details, see Shopping Guide.

279
B eats there a heart any closer to the center of transcontinental
cool today than that of Charlotte Gainsbourg? Its been three
years now, and I like the place where I am, of being a real foreign-
ernot understanding everything, just going with the flow and at the
same time being an outsider, Gainsbourg says, characteristically shy
yet no-nonsense, of her midlife move to New York City.
Gainsbourg grew up in the public eye, the daughter of the ultimate 1970s
bohemian couple, British actress and pop star Jane Birkin (who offhand-
edly inspired Hermss timeless Birkin bag) and French crooner Serge
Gainsbourg. At 46, she appears to be heading into the most public and
productive phase of her career, with two movies and an album, her fifth,
being released in rapid succession this fall (not to mention her ongoing du-
ties as the face of Anthony Vaccarellos Saint Laurenther innate, I-woke-
up-this-way cool, on display here at NYCs Public Hotel, being the kind of
fashion-world catnip that never goes out of style). In The Snowman, direc-
tor Tomas Alfredsons film adaptation of Jo Nesbs best-selling Nordic
noir about a serial killer, she stars with Michael Fassbender, Rebecca Fer-
guson, Val Kilmer, and J. K. Simmons; in the buzzed-about French film La
Promesse de laube (Promise at Dawn), she plays the mother in Romain
Garys 1960 coming-of-age tale, a book she says every French student has
280
read for generations. But Gainsbourgs true labor of love is Rest, the album
shes been working on ever since she came to America. Produced by the
hot French electropop-meister SebastiAn (Daft Punk, Frank Ocean), it in-
cludes an original song written just for her by Paul McCartney (Songbird
in a Cage). But whereas her previous albumshits in Europehave been
collaborations with the likes of Jarvis Cocker and Beck, Rest marks the first
time that Gainsbourg has written all the other lyrics on the album.
Its all almost enough to make up for Gainsbourgs sabbatical, for
the time being anyway, from the set of Danish bad-boy director Lars
von Trier, who made her his muse for his provocative films Antichrist
(2009), Melancholia (2011), and Nymphomaniac: Volumes I & II (2013).
One would think that a celluloid record of having welts raised on ones
naked derriere (as Gainsbourg did in the latter enterprise) would cure
one of desiring such future liaisons, but the actress speaks with some
heat about Von Triers latest work, The House That Jack Built: He just
finished a film that was not with me, she says, her voice uncharacter-
istically rising. Are you jealous? I ask. Yeah, very! she says with a
laugh. Matt Dillon is his new muse, she adds ruefully. Of working with
Von Trier, she says, with evident hopes of doing so again, Its intense,
but thats what youre looking for as an actor.Ben Dickinson
 Far left and left: Wool
coat, $2,250, leather boots,
$1,395, all, calvin klein
205w39nyc, calvinklein
.com. Cotton tank, saint
laurent by anthony
vaccarello, $490. Her
own bracelet. For details, see
Shopping Guide.
Hair by Kevin Ryan for Unite;
makeup by Frankie Boyd for Nars;
manicure by Gina Edwards at Kate
Ryan Inc. for Chanel; produced by
Coco Knudson at Seliger Studio;
fashion assistant: Yashua Simmons;
location: Public Hotel, New York

281
 Counter Culture
In his first year on his own at Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli
has taken the 57-year-old house in a timely direction, fusing high
fashion with sporty influences in a remix worthy of the
MCs he idolizesincluding idol Selah Marley. Yes, that Marley.
By Alison S. Cohn
PHOTOGRAPHED BY HENRY LEUTWYLER STYLED BY SAMIRA NASR

Two royalsPierpaolo Piccioli, heir to king of cou-
ture Valentino Garavani; and model/music scion
Selah Marley, granddaughter of Bob and daughter
of Lauryn Hillare holding court in Katzs Deli-
catessen. Standing at the Lower East Side estab-
lishments counter, which runs the length of the
chaotic dining area and is punctuated by steam-
ing mounds of brisket and corned beef, the two
are discussing their mutual admiration for, of all
people, Justin Bieber. When Marley, whos sport-
ing a patchwork fur coat over a shocking-pink
dress and shower slides from Picciolis Pink Is
Punk resort collection (shown in May, here in
New York City), climbs on top of the counter, the
tour busdisgorged diners are too fixated on their
mile-high pastrami on ryes to care. As for the staff,
theyve been watching patrons gasp and moan here
for nearly 30 years, ever since Meg Ryan faked
cinemas most famous orgasm in When Harry Met
Sally.... Theyve seen stranger tableaux.
As one might expect from the Italian fashion
house that got its start outfitting Hollywood glamour
girls in the La Dolce Vita era, the moment is appropri-
ately, well, cinematic. Piccioli, as it transpires, once
dreamed of being a movie director, but ended up
studying fashion design at Romes Istituto Europeo
di Design, where he fell hard for the fashion pho-
tography of Deborah Turbeville and Irving Penn. I
saw their images as frames in a narrative and used to
imagine the moment before and the moment after,
he says. Now he imagines his mission as similar to an
auteurs: to tell stories about life through fashion.
In 2008, after spending nine years designing ac-
cessories at Valentino alongside his longtime cre-
ative partner, Maria Grazia Chiuri, the pair were
promoted to cocreative directors. Together, they
injected a bit of punkish edge via the best-selling
Rockstud accessories line and quietly evolved
Valentinos elaborately embellished eveningwear
DNA, offering gossamer A-line dresses with long
sleeves and high necklines that redefined the brand
with a prettiness that was lighter and less forced,
if still regal. After Chiuris appointment as artis-
tic director of Dior in July 2016, Piccioli, in his first
year flying solo, has impressed critics with his new
emphasis on daywear, specifically a truly singular
breed of haute athleisure. I can see a woman wear-
ing a tracksuit with fur or jewels, Piccioli says. I
want her to be able to do her own freestyle.
Today, as they tuck into pastrami sandwiches,
18-year-old Marley articulates this ethos well,
saying that Valentinos pieces are so statement-
making, but also give room for exploration. My
grandma could wear it, or my cousin. Piccioli is
happy to return the compliment: I like the way
the young generation experiments by wearing
a full face of makeup or none at all, or wearing
heels as casually as flats. Hes excited for this
new guard to engage with the houses heritage at
every touchpoint, such as the Instagram Stories
he creates for the @maisonvalentino account
(supershort films, he jokes, rearranging a plate
of dill spears for a better shot).
Picciolis own black-jeans-and-sneakers uni-
form reads more everyday guy than patrician
gentleman. Which, indeed, he is: The 50-year-old
takes the train to the atelier every morning from
Nettuno, a beach town an hour south of Rome
where he and his wife, Simona, are raising their
three childrenBenedetta, 20, Pietro, 19, and
Stella, 11. The commute gives him time to listen
to music (Kendrick Lamar and David Bowie at the
moment) and catch up on episodes of Baz Luhr-
manns The Get Down, Netflixs series on the rise of
hip-hop. The show (now sadly canceled) served as
inspirationor as he prefers to call it, samples
for Picciolis latest collection. You can see its influ-
ence in the impressive breadth of sporty daywear,
including sheer, A-line mididresses layered over
racing-stripe unitards and tracksuits cut from ham- On model Selah Marley: Mink coat, cotton
sweatshirt, $2,790, light georgette dress, $4,400,
mered silk. The Get Downs original soundtrack, jersey Lycra swimsuit, $550, all, VALENTINO,
based on pioneering South Bronx 70s hip-hop, at Valentino boutiques nationwide. Slides,
serves as metaphor for the way he approaches de- VALENTINO GARAVANI, $725. On Creative
Director Pierpaolo Piccioli: His own clothes.
sign. Hip-hop samples music; it uses something
Hair by Chuck Amos at Jump for Pantene; makeup by
that is already done and mixes it in a different way. Sir John for LOral Paris; manicure by Gina Viviano for
What comes out is one sound, which is made up of Chanel; casting by Paul Brickman at Zan Casting; model:
Selah Marley at Next Models; produced by Una Simone
different sounds that you already know, Piccioli Harris; location: Katzs Delicatessen, New York
says. But its new, and its one.

282
 Right: Embroidered dress,
gold-finished Portoro
earrings, $1,195, calfskin
eyelet belt, $765, all,
alexander mcqueen, at
Alexander McQueen, NYC.
Far right: Cotton dress, $895,
shearling collar (worn as hood),
$895, both, coach 1941,
similar styles at coach.com.
Wool cap, prada. For details,
see Shopping Guide.

284
Into the
Woods
The seasons coziest homespun knits, folksy patchwork
dresses, and hand-quilted outerwear feel right at home amid
the dirt roads and pine forests of upstate New York
PHOTOGRAPHED BY LAURIE BARTLEY STYLED BY VANESSA CHOW

285
Sabl dress,
valentino, $5,900,
at Valentino boutiques
nationwide. Multi-
fabric fringe coat,
dolce & gabbana,
$8,895. For details, see
Shopping Guide.

286
287
 Wool coat with faux-
shearling collar, miu miu,
$4,865, miumiu.com. Wool-
blend sweater, $980, rayon
cupro-blend turtleneck,
$590, wool and nylon pants,
$1,195, all, missoni. Cotton
socks, $75, shearling and
leather sandals, $225, all,
coach 1941.

288
 Cashmere-knit belted
cardigan coat, $2,795,
sweater, $1,795, both,
burberry, burberry
.com. Cotton and wool
hat, marni, $710. Gold
brass pendant necklace,
cline, $530. For details,
see Shopping Guide.

289
 Wool long cardigan,
emporio armani,
$1,075, at Armani, NYC.
Beaded crepe de chine
dress, $2,405, faux-fur
slides, $435, all, simone
rocha. Python and
leather cap, prada,
$975. Cotton socks,
coach 1941, $75.

290
 Printed-silk coat,
preen by thornton
bregazzi, $2,440,
preenbythorntonbregazzi
.com. Crystal, pearl, and
sequin Lurex floral dress,
gucci. Cotton socks,
$75, shearling and leather
sandals, $225, all, coach
1941. For details, see
Shopping Guide.

291
Wool and fur-trim coat,
etro, $9,740, etro.com.
Wool hat, giorgio
armani, $445. For details,
see Shopping Guide.
Hair by Kevin Ryan for Unite;
makeup by Justine Purdue at
Streeters for Nars; manicure
by Tatyana Molot for Chanel;
casting by Paul Brickman at Zan
Casting; model: Amanda Wellsh
at IMG; props and set design by
James Lear; produced by Jessica
Hafford at Random Productions;
fashion assistant: Alban Roger;
location: The Harriman Estate,
Harriman, New York

292
293
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MODESTY ABLAZE
Continued from page 112
modest apparel, its no surprise that some
designers are catering specifically to Mus-
lim women seeking luxury options. Ghizlan
Guenez, founder and CEO of the high-end
modest-fashion site The Modist, has expertly
curated pieces from more than 75 labels, from
Adam Lippes to Zero + Maria Cornejo. I
hear a new reason every day for why a wom-
an would choose to dress modestly, Guenez
tells me when I reach her by phone in Dubai.
Some women do it for faith, and some wom-
en do it because they love this style and find
it elegant. And some women feel that its age
appropriate. The reasons go on. One of the
most exciting things for her has been working
with designers who are willing to customize
looks for those customers seeking more cov-
erage, from adding more fabric to a skirt to
rethinking the neckline of an evening gown.
I think creative people enjoy that. And the
amazing thing is now a few of [the design-
ers] have said, Weve got your woman on our
moodboard.
Another designer sold on The Modist is
Londons Emilia Wickstead, whos prob-
ably best known for dressing Kate Mid-
dletonthe woman bringing street style
to Buckingham Palace. For fall 2017,
Wickstead was inspired by the floral
prints and puffed sleeves of nineteenth-
century Russian folk costume. Wickstead is a
master at balancing proportion and coverage:
Many of the looks had a crew neck or turtle-
neck (one scalloped turtleneck crop top had
chic cuffed sleeves). Its so important that
there are things with sleeves because, quite
frankly, some women just dont like to show
their arms, says the designer. But I dont
think its about being modest. Its about if its not a hell yes, its a no.
298
ATTENTION, PLEASE
Continued from page 164
dtre. Anybody who wasnt an activist, who
wasnt in opposition, was kind of my enemy.
But I stopped the idea of kicking against the
wall because I realized that punks had been
pretty ineffective people. They just wanted to
jump around and shout out, but they didnt
This page: Imaxtree.com (3). Opposite page, top right: Jennifer Robbins/thelicensingproject.com
really know what to do. So I thought, subver-
sion is only in ideas. She drew on Huxleys
thinking to turn out a joyous, defiant collec-
tion that was the opposite of distraction. It
felt primal: A dance of death, like its the
last carnival on earth somehow. But never-
theless, I gave it an optimism, because we
got all these clowns and dancers and acro-
bats to take part in it. While not as explicitly
activist as her punk-era shirts (which read,
for instance, Destroy and Only Anar-
chists Are Pretty), Westwood captured the
defiance and jubilation of protest.
How do you feel comfortable in your skin? Traditionally, these two styles of dressing
Its important that you can feel challenged a have been seen as diametrically opposed
bit by a design, but comfortable and excited. unenlightened social butterflies versus po-
Did I feel comfortable a decade ago, dress- liticized punks. In 1991, Susan Faludi wrote
ing for tips, or to please a mercurial boss or about a Christian Lacroix fashion show in
boyfriend? Not really. Now that Im in my Backlash: The Undeclared War Against Amer-
early thirties, I realize that Coco Chanels ican Women, at which the audience was
famed dictum Elegance is refusal is just a treated to three layers of bustles, twenty
nicer way of saying, You need some bound- pounds of crinoline and taffeta, and roses
aries. OKeeffe knew that. She also knew the the size of cabbage heads. She dubbed the
erotic charge that a covered-up woman can look High Femininity and linked it to the
elicit. And Im learning. Earlier this year, I rollback of womens rights that was going on
reckoned with my compulsive people-pleas-
ing when I resigned from Out of the Binders,
the feminist nonprofit organization that Id
cofounded to help female and gender-non-
conforming writers. I was burned out from
years of saying yes: Yes, I could finish that
grant application on Christmas morning to
meet the deadline; yes, I could organize two
conferences a year, in my spare time, while
I waited for funding to appear that would
pay me to do so full-time; yes, I could share
advice and contacts with any of our 40,000
members who sent me a Facebook message.
Since deactivating my Facebook account
(boundary number one), Ive been applying
a sort of KonMari decluttering method to my
own psyche whenever new requests appear
in my inbox: Does this opportunity spark joy?
For me, modest dressing has been not only a
figure-flattering choice, but a way for me to
sartorially signify that Im putting my own
intentions first. When I pair a midiskirt with
a dolman-sleeve blouse, or wear a shiftdress
over a pair of skinny jeans with a chain-link
necklace, I feel confident. I feel like myself.
Now, whether its an opportunity or an outfit,
at the time: In every backlash, the fashion
industry has produced punitively restrictive
clothing, she wrote.
But when I speak to one of the leading
lights of the Nouvelle Society era, Carolyne
Roehm, she has a different take. Roehm and
her set, who lived big and dressed even bigger
in the 80s, were nicknamed social cyclones
by WWD for their many gala appearances.
But only the women came in for chiding in
the pages of society columns, scolded for,
essentially, using fashion to draw attention
to themselves. Men arent in the eye of the
camera. Who wants to look at a dinner jacket
and a pair of pants when you can look at a cra-
zy dress, or an extravagant dress, or a beauti-
ful one? she says. In the bird world, the men
wear the feathers and the color, and in the
human one its the opposite, so it makes for a
better photograph. Theres always been this
element in societies where theres a voyeuris-
tic type of thing of wanting to see what people
do, but theres this flip slide that wants to put
them down for it. For Roehm, her pounds of
taffeta werent self-imprisonment; they were
self-expression, just as much a statement
about her place in the worldalbeit an ex-
tremely privileged oneas a Nasty Woman
T-shirt might be. Both command you to look,
and theres a certain power in simply taking
up space in the worldand refusing to let any-
one look away. Now, remind me to get that
Mondrian-print coat out of storage.
GOODBYE TO ALL THAT
Continued from page 233
told we werent allowed to leave our seats once
the program started, Tara and I braved the
looks of disapproval. We got frozen yogurt and
sat in my car and talked.
I found more entertainment value and emo-
tional meat in the meet-ups cohosted by Biet
Simkin, a high-end meditation guide and spir-
itual teacher and a founder of Club Sda NYC,
roving alcohol-free events held throughout
New York City. The Club Sda I went to was held
in a basement event space under a Manhattan
Lululemon (one of Simkins corporate clients).
It was populated by well-heeled hipsters, most-
ly women, in Carly Simonstyle floppy hats
and big sneakers, drinking sparkling chamo-
mile tea and kombucha. I overheard one rev-
eler ask another, Are you sober sober or just a
nondrinker? Or as Simkin and her cofounder,
New Age author Ruby Warrington, put it: War-
rington, who is not an alcoholic and still has an
occasional drink, is sober curious. Simkin,
who was an alcoholic and heroin and cocaine
addict and got sober eight and a half years ago
through AA, is sober imperative.
Simkin had partygoers couple up and stare
into each others left eye, an oddly trippy and
emotional exercise. My partnera stranger
until that momentand I both teared up at one
point, as Simkin exhorted us to send love to
each other. Several speakers testified, in a style
reminiscent of AA, about their past tangles
with alcohol and how great it was to eschew
the liquid poison. A Kundalini disco DJ led us
through some breathing exercises set to dance
music. I left early to get home to my kids.
Though all the happenings and meetings I
attended didnt provide me with my precise
tribewhich I guess would be sober curious
Generation X workaholic mothers who leave
events early and wear uncool hats and run-
ning sneakersthey did open a door for me:
I wasnt alone in wanting to be more present
in my life, more honest about my limitations
and desires. If I lost friends, or was less pro-
ductive at work, or threw my family off-
balance for a time because I stopped play-
ing by the same rules that I always had, well,
thenthats life. Do you want to be who you
came to this planet to be, or do you want to be
in dysfunctional, mediocre relationships?
Simkin asked when we caught up on the
phone after Club Sda. If you want to hide
your greatness, if you want to be miserable,
have at it. Your greatness is in a box in the
basement, crying all alone.
Simkin said the events offered an alcohol-
free way to lower inhibitions and increase
peoples willingness to be vulnerable with
one another. Drinking provides people with
the intimacy they need to spill their guts,
she said. When they stop drinking, they still
need to find a way to get into that mind state
where they can connect with other people.
Unsurprisingly, Simkin thinks drinking is a
less rewarding and sustainable way of access-
ing transcendence, intimacy, peace, and all
the other feelings people typically look for in
a bottle. Its a lie that its more difficult to go
the sober route, she said. You dont want to
be the same person with the same problems
10, 20, 30 years later. You want to be expand-
ing and changing. If youre prohibiting that by
drinking, youre not going to be as happy in the
long term. Drinking may make you feel ex-
panded for an hour, but youll come right back
to where you started.
Its been a year now since I started exam-
ining my relationship to substances. I dont
take sleeping pills anymore. Im off caffeine
and my afternoon chocolate fix. I still eat a
ton of bagels, and currently Im having a glass
of wine or two most weeksalthough writing
this story reminds me how much my year of
mostly abstaining changed me for the better,
and makes me think I might go back to teeto-
taling. Without the option of neutralizing my
day-to-day stress with a glass of Chardonnay,
I was forced to address the root causes of my
distress. Im learning to say no to opportunities
and obligations for which I dont really have the
time or interest. Ive stopped doing tasks my
family members can do for themselves. All of
which means I have more time to take care of
myselfmeditating, exercising, sleeping
and to follow my own bliss. I do feel like Im
closer to finding that box in my basement
where my greatness is crying alone. And when
I find it, Im going to set it freeand then trap
Bunny inside.
299

DEAR READER, I LIED
Continued from page 223
often overlap and are now considered essen-
tially flip sides of the same coin.)
I get all thisand Im also disquieted that
a record number of young people take SSRIs,
for longer and longer periods. Will this in-
terfere with their ability to fully experience,
and thus learn from, the glories and rigors of
growing up: finding love, discovering what
you want and dont want? Curbing negative
emotions isnt always ideal for artists, either.
A writer I know told me shed tried an SSRI
and felt her lifelong anxiety dissipate, but
with that, she had a sudden lack of need to do
the thing that had quelled itwritingwhich
was also how she made a living. So she gave
up the drug, and the writing came back.
To be sure, there are many cures to try
before going the medication route, as long
as youre not suffering from major depres-
sion or anxiety: therapy (psycho- or cognitive
behavioral), regular exercise, even various
diets. I know someone who eliminated her
depression by going gluten-free. ABC anchor
Dan Harris, the author of 10% Happier: How
I Tamed the Voice in My Head, Reduced Stress
Without Losing My Edge, and Found Self-Help
That Actually WorksA True Story, trained
himself to meditate after having a panic at-
tack on air. And some people decide they
need their dreary emotional state, at least for
a while. I begged a friend who couldnt get out
of bed after the 9/11 attacks to try an SSRI,
but she refused. Later, she told me shed had
a strong visceral feeling that my depression
was caused by something I could change. I
suspected that taking Prozac or Celexa would
allow me to manage my feelings betterlift
me out of them, evenbut I wanted to grapple
with them and fix what needed fixing. And
she did. She left her frustrating marriage,
which was painful, but is now married to a
man with whom shes much more compat-
ible. When she feels depressed, she quits
drinking for a while, which so far has worked
to set her straight again.
But I have another good friendanother
talented womanwho never could settle into
a career. She was always insecure or dissatis-
fied or just plain miserable. For years, I urged
her to try an SSRI, but she worried that a drug
would change her. I try to respect this; every
persons life is her own banana peel to slip on
and all that. Still, I cant help but think that she
300
missed the opportunity to reach her potential
and live a better, brighter life. There are peo-
ple who want to be the way they are, Kramer
told me. But there are other people who suf-
fer emotional pain every day who think they
have to live with the way they are. And they
sometimes need a friend to say, you know, you
think this is your fate because youre in this
state right now, but there are ways for you to
feel relief, to gain perspective.
Celexa never made me feel like I was a dif-
ferent person, just a more contented version
of me. And it didnt make me feel drugged
or high, just less dissatisfied, easier to be
arounda more patient person, mother, and
wife. With the mild filter the drug put between
events and my emotions, I could step back be-
fore I reactedwhich I deeply appreciated.
Im lucky, and this is key, that a low dose
is enough to give me benefits without many
side effects. The few I do have are minor. Im
woozy in the morning. I cant drink, because
more than a few sips of alcohol bring an in-
stant headache. I am lazier medicated She still believes that doctors and especially
but for me, lazy just means not shooting
around like the Road Runner, making every-
one in my orbit want to stab themselves in the
face. I exercise daily, but I have no interest
in the intense workouts I used to do. Maybe
this is bad for my bones; Im a tiny, thin per-
son, and perhaps at 70, Ill suffer some con-
sequences from having chosen a drug and a
walk (or reading a novel) over lifting weights
or training for a marathon or suffering
through a hot yoga class. I used to feel great
after those classes, like Id sweated out all the
stress, but I remember thinking, Is spending
8 or 10 hours a week in this wildly overheat-
ed room just to be able to be at peaceis that
really much better than popping a cheap, le-
gal pill for the same or better result?
Which brings me back to Diana Spechler
and Patricia Pearson, my fellow going off
authors. How are they now?
Spechler is writing a book that stemmed
from her column, so she wouldnt say too
much, but she shared this: I didnt go back
on meds in any official capacity, though I did
have a brief reunion/romance with benzos
around election time. She made other big
changes, thoughincluding moving from
the East Coast to somewhere much warmer
and sunnier. In other words, she made the
sort of dramatic change that alters your life
and can alter your depression.
Pearson was more forthcoming. At the end
of her book, at six weeks without meds, she
was a regular at both the gym and cognitive
behavioral therapy, savoring her children
and even going to church. Healthy stuff, for
surebut not, she admitted, enough to keep
her med-free forever; she resumed Lexapro
before the book even came out. First, it was
because of anxiety over her hypothyroidism.
Then, on the day of the books release, her fa-
ther died suddenly of a heart attack. In short,
her life got more stressful, as lives do, and she
needed more than exercise and church to get
by. The Lexapro eventually made her gain
weight, however, so after another year, with
her life back on track, she jettisoned it. But,
she told me, I hopped on and off a couple of
times between 2008 and 2014.
I reminded her that her convincing and so-
phisticated book was largely about how were
using pills to vanquish anxiety that we might
be better off living through. I was mad at
that time, she admitted. Mad at Effexor
and mad at the pharmaceutical companies.
Since then, Ive become more moderate:
When somethings of use to me, great, and
when I dont need it, fine. Shes not taking
anything now, but if I got anxious again, to
the point where Im almost paralyzed with
anxiety, then Id have no troublegetting a
prescription for 20 milligrams of Lexapro.
drug companies should be more honest about
the side effects of SSRIs and the difficulty of
getting off them. Other than probably Big
Pharma itself, who could disagree with that?
My own biggest worry with Celexa is not
what eventual damage it might causeIll
cross that bridge if I ever come to itbut that
someday I wont be able to get it and Ill have
to go off it cold turkey. The worry is irratio-
nal. I do still wonder on occasion, If Id never
found my wonder drug, would I somehow be
more interesting, the person I was meant
to be? What might I have written without
Celexa? And what about the great artists who
were famously depressed? If Van Gogh had
been able to pop an SSRI with his morning
OJ, would we have all his paintings?
Then I remember: I wrote three books taking
Celexa and three not taking it, and of the lat-
ter, only two got publishedbecause the third
was so depressing no one would buy it. And
while its true that we might not have all of Van
Goghs paintings if hed taken an antidepres-
sant, I have a feeling wed still have someand
he might not have taken his own life.
As for my young relative who left college
because of anxiety, she went into therapy,
started on an SSRI, and picked herself up off
the floor. She returned to school the next fall
and is now thriving. Shed like to eliminate
the drugsshes had some side effects and
chafes at the idea of being on them indefi-
nitelyso she sometimes lowers her dosage
(with a doctors help) and is learning to med-
itate. But in the meantime, thanks in large
part to antidepressants, shes making her way
in the world, taking advantage of her rights:
life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness.
I relate.
 COVERS
Bodysuit with tulle wrap by Y/Project, $585, collection at Barneys
New York, Opening Ceremony stores nationwide, net-a-porter
.com. Silver hoop earrings by Jennifer Fisher, $155 each, call 888-
255-0640 or visit jenniferfisherjewelry.com. Blackened white
gold and black and white diamond ear cuffs by Eva Fehren,
$2,975$3,575 each, evafehren.com. Sequin dress with bra by
Nina Ricci, $6,790, collection at bergdorfgoodman.com.
Blackened white gold and black and white diamond ear cuffs,
$2,975$3,575 each, rings, $2,585$2,950 each, by Eva Fehren,
evafehren.com. Black gold and diamond earring, Repossi,
collection at Dover Street Market (NYC). Silver pinkie ring, Eddie
Borgo, $130, eddieborgo.com. Faux-fur coat with PVC cover,
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, $3,995, calvinklein.com. Diamond
and white gold earrings, Chopard, at Chopard boutiques
nationwide, call 800-CHOPARD or visit chopard.com.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE 41: Tank, pumps by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, at
Saint Laurent (NYC).
STYLE ACROSS AMERICA
PAGE 102: On Goins: Blouse by Chlo, $2,850, collection at
Bergdorf Goodman (NYC), Neiman Marcus stores nationwide.
Jeans by Khaite, $840, khaite.com. Earrings by Rebecca de
Ravenel, $425, rebeccaderavenel.com. Pumps by Sergio Rossi,
$850, visit sergiorossi.com. On Graham: Wool sweater by
Versace, $650, at select Versace stores nationwide. Shirt by Thom
Browne, $370, thombrowne.com. Jeans by Citizens of Humanity,
$278, collection at shopbop.com. PAGE 108: On Elliott: Top,
$1,500, skirt, $2,450, by Fendi, fendi.com. Earrings by Tuleste,
$95, tuleste.com. Ankle boots by Gianvito Rossi, $1,075,
gianvitorossi.com.
TRENDS AND ACCESSORIES
PAGE 115: Sweater, skirt by Missoni, at Missoni (NYC). Cardigan,
skirt, hats, necklace, scarf, handbag, boots by Prada, at select
Prada boutiques nationwide. PAGE 116: Turtleneck by Khaite,
collection at khaite.com, modaoperandi.com, ssense.com, tnt
.com. Turtleneck by Rag & Bone, collection at Saks
Fifth Avenue stores nationwide. Turtleneck by
Barrie, collection at barrie.com, 24sevres.com,
matchesfashion.com, mytheresa.com. On model:
Turtleneck, skirt, handbag, boots by Balenciaga,
collection at Bergdorf Goodman (NYC), Saks Fifth
Avenue stores nationwide. Hoop earrings by Wasson,
collection at The Webster Miami. Rings by David
Yurman, davidyurman.com. PAGE 119: Cashmere
and fox-fur coat, cashmere-and-wool-blend
turtleneck by Fabiana Filippi, fabianafilippi.com.
Leather belt by Y/Project, collection at barneys.com,
mnzstore.com, openingceremony.com. Steel watch by Rolex,
rolex.com. Rings by David Yurman, at David Yurman (NYC).
PAGE 122: Hoop earrings by Soave Oro, at shopbop.com. Necklace
by Prada, at select Prada boutiques nationwide. Ring by Wasson,
Clockwise from left: Daymion Mardel; courtesy of the designer; Daymion Mardel
nationwide. T-shirt by J.Crew, $30, jcrew.com. Jeans by Levis, $148,
levi.com. PAGE 148: Watch by Fossil, fossil.com. Loafer by Fratelli
Rossetti, at Fratelli Rossetti (NYC). Loafer by Giuseppe Zanotti
Design, at Giuseppe Zanotti boutiques nationwide. Bracelet by
Tiffany & Co., call 800-843-3269. PAGE 152: Ankle boot by Chlo,
collection at Barneys New York. Ankle boot by Dior, call 800-929-
DIOR. Ankle boot by Jimmy Choo, jimmychoo.com. Ankle boot by
Isabel Marant, at Isabel Marant (NYC, L.A., San Francisco). Ankle
boot by Salvatore Ferragamo, call 866-337-7242. PAGE 156:
Handbag by Giorgio Armani, armani.com. Handbag by Mulberry,
mulberry.com. Handbag by Akris, akris.ch. Handbag by Michael
Michael Kors, at select Michael Kors stores nationwide. Handbag
by Mansur Gavriel, mansurgavriel.com.
BRITAINS GOT TALENT!
PAGE 158: Duffle coat, $130, dress, $50, backpack, $30, trench,
$150, shirt, $30, jeans, $30, by Uniqlo x JW Anderson, uniqlo.com.
SHOPS
PAGE 168: Coat by Hugo, 800-HUGOBOSS. Coat by Sandro,
us.sandro-paris.com. Coat by Theory, theory.com. Coat by Iro, at
Iro (NYC). Sweater by Aerie, at Aerie stores nationwide. Skirt by
White House Black Market, at White House Black Market stores
nationwide. Handbag by Mulberry, mulberry.com. PAGE 170:
Trousers by Theory, at Theory stores nationwide. Handbag by CH
Carolina Herrera, carolinaherrera.com. Coat by Creatures of
Comfort, creaturesofcomfort.us. Handbag by Bulgari, at Bulgari
boutiques nationwide. Sneaker by Golden Goose Deluxe Brand, at
Golden Goose Deluxe Brand (NYC). Watch by Buccellati, $31,000,
at Buccellati (NYC). PAGE 172: Coat by A.P.C., apc.fr. Coat by
Sandy Lang, collection at Shop Super Street (L.A.), Lust Covet
Desire (Venice, CA). Sweater by Eleven Six, eleven-six.co,
collection at intermixonline.com. Skirt by Hilfiger Collection,
tommy.com. Necklace by David Yurman, davidyurman.com.
Beanie by A New Day, collection at target.com. PAGE 174: Coat by
Closed, collection at jill-roberts-boutique.myshopify.com. Coat by
TNA for Aritzia, aritzia.com. Coat by Herno, collection at Gorsuch
(Vail, CO). Coat by Moncler, moncler.com. PAGE 180: Jacket by
Kenneth Cole, at Kenneth Cole (NYC). Jacket by Old Navy, oldnavy
.com. Coat by Derek Lam, dereklam.com. Coat by Rebecca Taylor,
at Rebecca Taylor stores nationwide. Coat by Adam Lippes,
collection at fortyfiveten.com, riziks.com, thewebster.us. Skirt by
AJE, a-j-e.com.au. Belt by American Eagle Outfitters, at American
Eagle Outfitters stores nationwide. Jacket by Rag & Bone, at Rag &
Bone stores nationwide. Jacket by A New Day, collection at Target
stores nationwide. Pants by Michael Michael Kors, at select Michael
Kors stores nationwide. PAGE 184: Jacket by Ksubi, collection at
thelocal.generalpants.com. Jacket by LAgence, collection at
Bergdorf Goodman (NYC). PAGE 187: Shirt, jeans by Adam
Selman, collection at Ron Herman (L.A., Malibu, CA). Oxford by
Matthew Adams Dolan, at matthewadamsdolan.com. Military
beret by Gosha Rubchinskiy x Stephen Jones, collection at Dover
Street Market New York. Handbag by Dior, call 800-929-DIOR.
Ankle boot by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, collection at
bergdorfgoodman.com.
THE ELLE PERSONAL STYLE AWARDS 2017!
PAGE 265: Corduroy pants by Matthew Adams Dolan, collection
at ssense.com. Ankle boots by Christian Louboutin, at Christian
Louboutin boutiques nationwide. PAGE 266: Jacket by Gucci,
$25,000, gucci.com. Dress by Ulla Johnson, at Ulla Johnson
(NYC). Hat by Nick Fouquet, nickfouquet.com, collection at
brownsfashion.com, thewebster.us. Ring by Brother Vellies, call
212-480-8869. PAGE 268: Top by Creatures of Comfort, at
Creatures of Comfort (NYC). Crown by Dolce & Gabbana, at
select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques nationwide. Hoop earrings by
Wild and Woolly, wildandwoollyny.com, collection at Bergdorf
Goodman (NYC), ssense.com. Ring by
Pascale Monvoisin, collection at net-a-
porter.com. Ring by Marc Alary, marcalary
.com. Waist bag by Chanel, at select Chanel
boutiques nationwide. Boots by Victoria
Beckham, victoriabeckham.com. PAGE
269: Necklace by Monica Rich Kosann,
monicarichkosann.com. PAGE 270: T-shirt
by Saint Luis, collection at Jeffrey New York.
Scarf by Echo, echonewyork.com. Earrings
by Trademark, needsupply.com. Vintage
Herms necklace by Beladora, beladora
.com. Pendant necklace by Retrouva,
collection at Barneys New York. Rings by
Temple St. Clair, collection at Saks Fifth
Avenue stores nationwide, Mitchells (Westport, CT), Richards
(Greenwich, CT), Wilkes (San Francisco). Ring by Elsa Peretti for
Tiffany & Co., tiffany.com. Brogues by Churchs, church-
footwear.com. PAGE 271: On Atlanta de Cadenet Taylor: Jacket
by Balenciaga, collection at barneys.com. Dress by Coach 1941, at
select Coach stores nationwide. Headscarf by Rockins, collection
at Neiman Marcus stores nationwide, hartlyfashions.com,
shopscoutonline.com. Ring by David Yurman, davidyurman
.com. Ring by Fox & Bond, foxandbond.com. Ring by Marc Alary,
marcalary.com. On Amanda de Cadenet: Dress by Alberta
Ferretti, collection at fwrd.com, barneys.com. PAGE 272:
Bodysuit by Eres, at Eres boutiques nationwide, collection at net-
a-porter.com. Ring by Pascale Monvoisin, lingg.us. Ring by Marc
Alary, marcalary.com. Boots by Fendi, fendi.com. PAGE 273:
Levis jeans by Re/Done, shopredone.com. Sneakers by The Row,
The Row (NYC). Signet ring by Jessica Biales, jessicabiales.com.
PAGE 275: Top by PRISCAVera, collection at mnzstore.com.
Necklace by Tiffany & Co., tiffany.com. Socks by Maria La Rosa,
collection at barneys.com. Pumps by Saint Laurent by Anthony
Vaccarello, at Saint Laurent, NYC.
SHELL TAKE MANHATTAN
PAGES 276277: Bra by Yasmine Eslami, yasmine-eslami.com.
Ankle boots by Isabel Marant, at Isabel Marant (NYC, L.A., San
Francisco). PAGE 278: Top, skirt by Louis Vuitton, call
866-VUITTON. PAGE 279: Bra by Yasmine Eslami, collection at
Bergdorf Goodman (NYC). PAGES 280281: Tank by Saint
Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, at Saint Laurent (NYC).

collection at VMR (Chicago). Ring by David Yurman, at David
Yurman (NYC). Signet ring by Garland Collection,
garlandcollection.com. Boots by Sorel x Chlo, at Chlo boutiques
nationwide, collection at Bloomingdales stores nationwide, Saks
Fifth Avenue stores nationwide, Neiman Marcus stores
nationwide. PAGE 138: Coat by Moschino Couture, at Moschino
(NYC). T-shirt by imnotatoy, imnotatoy.com. Jeans by Levis, levi
.com. Boots by Pierre Hardy, collection at Just One Eye (L.A.).
PAGE 140: Beret by Maison Kitsun, maisonkitsune.fr. Beret by
Maison Michel, collection at farfetch.com, matchesfashion.com.
Beret by Dior, 800-929-DIOR. Cap by Gucci, at select Gucci stores
nationwide. Cap by Dsquared2, at Dsquared2 stores nationwide.
Trucker hat by Coach 1941, coach.com. Hat by Miu Miu, miumiu
.com. PAGE 143: Boot by Miu Miu, miumiu.com. PAGE 146:
Handbag by Chanel, $14,200, call 800-550-0005. Pumps by
Gucci, at select Gucci stores nationwide. PAGE 150: Watches,
$5,000$9,100 each, jacket, $10,700, handbag, $5,500, by
Chanel, at Chanel boutiques nationwide. Rings by Chanel Fine
Jewelry, $2,350$7,550 each, at Chanel Fine Jewelry boutiques
COUNTRY STRONG
PAGE 189: Sweater by Unravel, collection at mytheresa.com.
Levis jeans from Collection, at Collection (L.A.), collection
online.us. Ring by Jessica Biales, jessicabiales.com. Brogues by
Churchs, church-footwear.com.
WILD THOUGHTS
PAGE 255: Hat by Marni, at Marni boutiques nationwide.
Handbag by Cline, at Cline (NYC).
THE TOTALITY
PAGE 257: Bodysuit by Givenchy, at Givenchy (NYC). PAGES
258259: Earring, boots by Balenciaga, collection at Neiman
Marcus stores nationwide. Stud earring by Spinelli Kilcollin,
spinellikilcollin.com. Rings by Charlotte Chesnais, collection at
Dover Street Market New York. PAGES 262263: Neck plate by
Gijs Bakker, exclusively at Caroline Van Hoek Gallery (Brussels,
Belgium).
INTO THE WOODS
PAGE 285: Dress, collar by Coach 1941, similar styles at select
Coach stores nationwide. Cap by Prada, at select Prada boutiques
nationwide. PAGES 286287: Coat by Dolce & Gabbana, at select
Dolce & Gabbana boutiques nationwide. PAGE 288: Coat by Miu
Miu, at select Miu Miu boutiques nationwide. Sweater, turtleneck,
pants by Missoni, missoni.com. Socks, sandals by Coach 1941,
similar styles at coach.com. PAGE 289: Hat by Marni, collection
at Tender (Birmingham, MI). Necklace by Cline, at Cline
(NYC). PAGE 290: Dress, slides by Simone Rocha, at Simone
Rocha (NYC). Cap by Prada, at select Prada boutiques
nationwide. Socks by Coach 1941, similar styles at select Coach
stores nationwide. PAGE 291: Dress by Gucci, $13,000, gucci
.com. Socks, sandals by Coach 1941, similar styles at coach.com.
PAGES 292293: Hat by Giorgio Armani, at Giorgio Armani
boutiques nationwide.
Prices are approximate. ELLE recommends that merchandise
availability be checked with local stores.

ELLE (ISSN 0888-0808) (Volume XXXIII, Number 2) (October 2017) is published monthly by Hearst Communications, Inc., 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 U.S.A. Steven R. Swartz, President and Chief Executive Officer; William R. Hearst III, Chairman; Frank A. Bennack,
Jr., Executive Vice Chairman; Catherine A. Bostron, Secretary. Hearst Magazines Division: David Carey, President; John A. Rohan, Jr., Senior Vice President, Finance. 2017 by Hearst Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. ELLE is used under license from the trademark owner,
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provide the first copy for delivery by the Postal Service or alternate carrier within 46 weeks. For customer service, changes of address, and subscription orders, log on to service.elle.com or write to Customer Service Dept., ELLE, P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037. From time to
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301
 LAYERED JAKE
Sure, Jake Gyllenhaal would nicely fill out a superhero suitbut why
hide all that intensity? The capital-A actor gets real on career, art,
and what his mama taught him. By Mickey Rapkin
Stories about Jake Gyllenhaal tend to
highlight the moment he decided to
boldly walk away from would-be Hollywood
tentpoles like Prince of Persia and The Day Af-
ter Tomorrow to, you know, be an artist. Truth
is, the guys been making interesting choices
from the jump: Donnie Darko, The Good Girl,
Brokeback Mountainthree genres, three
killer performances. But if you really want to
talk about risky, how about taking on the
Broadway revival of the musical Sunday in
the Park With George, as he did earlier this
year, with barely a set piece to hide behind?
Gyllenhaal, 36, can be goofyon talk shows,
memorably prank FaceTime-ing his buddy
Ryan Reynolds live on Late Night With Seth
Meyersbut in conversation, hes deliberate
and serious. (You might be too if one of your
exes maybe, possibly, wrote a song about how
youre never ever getting back together.) Gyl-
lenhaal is at his stirring, emotional best this
fall in Stronger, based on the true story of Jeff
Bauman, a hero of the 2013 Boston Marathon
bombing who just wanted to watch his girl-
friend cross the finish line when he was
caught in the blast. Thats only the beginning
of Baumans story, which thrust him into the
national spotlight while he was still learning
to walkand loveall over again.
ELLE: Tell me about your first meeting with
Jeff Bauman.
JAKE GYLLENHAAL: I was nervous. It was ini-
tially awkward.
ELLE: Why?
JG: I think there is, essentially, something
fraudulent in what I do for a living. Ang Lee
once said that as filmmakers, we pretend
other times. Ive found that a lot.
call that a struggle. Everybody is an actor in
one way or another. We are all performing cer-
tain things.
ELLE: When was the last time you felt scared?
JG: Like, 45 minutes ago? [Laughs] It depends
on how you define scared.
ELLE: Youre talking about anxiety. Theyve got you learn that day?
Klonopin for that.
JG: Im cool. I like to experience the world. I
mean, that is part of my job.
ELLE: Stronger director David Gordon Green
said about you, [I want to] milk him for his
weirdness. What did he mean?
JG: I have no idea. David lives in Austin,
where the word weirdness is synonymous with
honesty. He was trying to milk me of a certain
you up, I thought you meant for a prank.
ELLE: Sunday in the Park is, in part, about an
artists struggle to communicate with the
woman he loves. Georges Seurat puts Dot in
a painting. But she wants to hear him say the
words. Your performance felt deeply personal.
JG: She says to him, Tell me how you feel.
Tell me that youre hurt, tell me that youre
scared, tell me youre relieved. Anything. But
dont assume I know. The painting is sitting
in front of them, with all his expression of
love. He says, You know exactly how I feel.
He doesnt know how to express how much he
loves her. I think, as an artist, youre trying to
communicate with people you love. Its bound
to be understood sometimes and confused
ELLE: You strike me as someone who is end-
lessly curious. What are you curious about
right now?
JG: Ive been reading a lot about the American
Revolution and recently binge-watched The
Crown, so Im really curious about the pros
and cons of democracy versus a parliamentary
system versus a monarchy. Im a real joy to be
around right now, as you can imagine.
ELLE: You and your sister went to the Womens
March in Washington, DC. What did
JG: That there should be another one.
And it should be bigger. Soon.
ELLE: How do you define masculinity?
JG: Masculinity is, nowadays and gen-
erationally, confusing. What is honor,
what is protection, what is being a man? Its
evolving. But I believe having an open heart
and a strong mind to protect thatis the idea.
ELLE: We often ask men what they learned

From left: Matthew Brookes/Trunk Archive; Sara Krulwich/

to get closer to the truth. Inevitably, when
youre dealing with a real-life story, theres
the knowledge that nothing you can do will
ever match what [Bauman] went through.
Before I start anything, I question why Im
doing it. I think thats the conundrum of any
artist, maybe.
ELLE: Was it a struggle to get people to see you
type of honesty. [Laughs] Milking me is a
really disgusting way of saying it. David is
nothing if not provocative.
ELLE: How do you deal with loneliness when
youre away working?
JG: I dont get lonely. I have myself.
ELLE: Is that really how you feel?
JG: It is. I have a really wonderful group of
from their fathers. What did you learn from
your mother?
JG: Most of the things that I learn are from the
women in my life.
ELLE: Can you be more specific? Did she teach
you something about storytelling, how to re-
spect women.
JG: My mom would always say this thing about
The New York Times/Redux

as an artist?
JG: As a kid?
ELLE: As an adult. People dont always assume
actors are artists. Was it a struggle to get peo-
ple to see beyond the facade of this six-foot-
tall, handsome
JG: [Laughs] A struggle? I dont know if youd
friends. And I have a life I love in New York
City. When you have a foundation thats
strong, you can move from it and go explore.
ELLE: Do people try to set you up on dates?
JG: People should set me up more often. I ab-
solutely encourage it. There should be more
of that in my life. When you first said set
writingand Ive taken it into account in a lot
of things in my lifewhich is just, Make it
shorter. Figure out what you are truly saying,
whittle it down to the essence, then say that.
ELLE: Anything else?
JG: Its okay to eat with your hands, as long as
you wash them first.

302
AND YOU, WHAT WOULD YOU DO FOR LOVE?
DIOR.COM
SEPHORA

AND YOU, WHAT WOULD YOU DO FOR LOVE?

T H E N E W E A U D E PA R F U M