J. J.

Pizzutos
FABRIC SCIENCE
SWATCH KIT Tenth Edition

allen c. cohen
ingrid johnson
FABRIC SCIENCE

Swatch Kit
 J. J. P i z z u t os

FABRIC SCIENCE

tenth edition

Swatch Kit
Allen C. Cohen
Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Ingrid Johnson
Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Before removing rubberbands from

fabric swatches, refer to Mounting the
Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets.

FA I R C H I L D B O O K S
New York
 Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias
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Cover Design: Carolyn Eckert
Text Design and Page Layout: Tronvig Group

Copyright 2012 Fairchild Books, a Division of Cond Nast Publications.

All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be
reproduced or used in any form or by any meansgraphic, electronic, or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval
systemswithout written permission of the publisher.

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number:

ISBN: 978-1-60901-358-5
GST R 133004424
Printed in the United States of America
MC01, MC06
 CONTENTS

Key to Fabric Swatches Assignment 7 / Yarns:

To Examine Different Yarns of the Same Fiber
How to Use the Fabric Science Swatch Kit Content
Assignments
Mounting Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets Assignment 8 / Yarns:
Using the Pick Glass To Determine Yarn Structure

Whats in a Fabric Name? Assignment 9 / Woven Fabrics:

To Analyze a Woven Fabric Structure
Assignments
Assignment 1 / Fibers: Assignment 10 / Woven Fabrics:
To Relate Fiber Properties to Product Use To Create Basic Weaves

Assignment 2 / Fibers: Assignment 11 / Woven Fabrics:

To Show Variety of Types of Fabrics Made of To Study a Fabric with an Uncut Pile Weave
the Same Fiber
Assignment 12 / Woven Fabrics:
Assignment 3 / Fibers: To Determine V and W Shape Cut Pile
To Evaluate Textile Absorbency Interlacings

Assignment 4 / Fibers: Assignment 13 / Woven Fabrics:

To Identify Fibers by Solubility To Reproduce a Fabric Weave on Design Paper

Assignment 5 / Fibers: Assignment 14 / Knitted Fabrics:

To Calculate Percentage of Fiber Content To Determine Knitted Fabric Structure

Assignment 6 / Yarns: Assignment 15 / Knitted Fabrics:

To Evaluate Yarns To Determine Properties of Knitted Fabrics

A v F
Assignment 16 / Dyed Fabrics:
To Determine the Degree of Dye Penetration
Assignment 17 / Dyed Fabrics:
To Determine Stage of Dyeing and Possible
Dye Class Used
Assignment 18 / Printed Fabrics:
To Evaluate Printed Design
Assignment 19 / Textiles for Interiors:
To Examine Railroading of Upholstery Fabrics
Assignment 20 / Textiles for Interiors:
To Examine Finishes on Textiles for Interiors
Assignment 21 / Textiles for Interiors:
To Examine Fabrics for Down-filled Cushions,
Quilts, or Pillows
Assignment 22 / Textiles for Interiors:
To Examine Fabrics Suitable for Curtains
and Draperies
Assignment 23 / Textiles for Interiors:
To Examine Fabrics Suitable for Interiors
Assignment 24 / Analysis of Fabrics:
To Produce Fabric Patterns
C O N T E N T S
A vi
Assignment 25 / Analysis of Fabrics:
To Compare Covering Power
Assignment 26 / Analysis of Fabrics:
To Analyze the Color Effect of a Woven
Fabric Design
Assignment 27 / Analysis of Fabrics:
To Analyze a Fabric
Assignment 28 / Fabric Performance Testing:
To Determine Tests to Perform on Fabrics for
a Specific End Product
Assignment 29 / Fabric Performance Testing:
To Determine the Durability of the Fabrics
Assignment 30 / Fabric Performance Testing:
To Determine Fabric Wrinkle Resistance
Assignment 31 / Fabric Performance Testing:
To Determine Colorfastness Properties
of Fabrics
Assignment 32 / Textile Laws:
To Develop Appropriate Labels to Satisfy
Federal Laws
Fabric Sample Sheets
F
 HOW TO USE THE FABRIC SCIENCE SWATCH KIT
Before removing rubberbands from
fabric swatches, refer to Mount-
ing the Swatches on Fabric Sample
Sheets (see page viii).
T he Fabric Science Swatch Kit has been assembled
to supplement the study of textiles. The swatches
and assignments will enhance your understanding of
the principles described in the textbook. This Swatch
Kit is designed to accompany the Fabric Science, Tenth
Edition, text.
Most of the fabrics contained in the Fabric Science
Swatch Kit have been obtained from the marketplace.
They have been sold to apparel or interior furnishing
manufacturers and have eventually appeared in
stores as textile products (e.g., jackets and decorative
pillows).
The 114 fabric swatches included in the Swatch
Set represent examples of every major type of fiber,
yarn, weave, and knit as well as examples of dye,
print, and finishing applications. Examples are also
provided for more recent materials such as microde-
nier fiber, lyocell fiber, and special purpose high-tech
fabric such as Staybright bleach-resistant fabric. In
addition, a fabric made of eco-friendly fibers, such as
organic cotton and reprocessed wool, have been in-
cluded.
The swatches have not been pinked, but left
with straight edges to make it easier to remove yarns
(this is necessary for fabric analysis). The rectangu-
lar form has been chosen to correspond to the fabric
A vii
length and width directions. (The long swatch direc-
tion is the fabric length.)
The swatches have been organized in approxi-
mately the order in which they will be studied: fibers,
yarns, weaves, knits, dyeing, printing, finishing, etc.
The Fabric Science Swatch Kit also contains a Key
to identify the swatches by number and fabric name;
description and fiber content; Assignments; and Fabric
Sample Sheets for mounting swatches.
Assignments
The assignments are designed to reinforce the text and
classroom lectures. They are developed to broaden your
understanding of the key concepts concerning textiles
by involving you directly in problem solving. Successful
completion of the assignments will help you develop
skills of observations, analysis, and report writing.
The assignments are straightforward and basic.
Extensive laboratory equipment is not required. Suf-
ficient information is provided for work to be indepen-
dent of a classroom environment.
For assignments that are to be completed in the
classroom, read the assignment before coming to class.
Use your textbook to review the related material prior
to the class meeting.
F
Mounting the Swatches on Fabric
Sample Sheets
Materials: Set of swatches; Fabric Sample Sheets; dou-
ble-stick tape or masking tape (3/4-inch wide); scissors
The Fabric Science swatches have been placed in
numerical order in the proper positions for mounting.
Mount them on the Fabric Sample Sheets.
The fabric number, name, and color listed in the
Key are in the same sequence as the swatches in the
packets. To make mounting your swatches simple and
foolproof, follow these instructions:
1. Do not remove the rubberbands from the packets
until you actually begin mounting the swatches.
2. The swatches are packaged in two separate pack-
ets. One packet labeled A contains swatches
163; the second packet, labeled B, 64114;
and every 10 swatches are separated with tissue.
Packet One A:
Fibers (115)
Yarns (1627)
Woven Fabrics (2848)
Knitted Fabrics (4963)
Packet Two B:
Knitted Fabrics (6469)
Other Types of Fabrics (7075)
Dyed Fabrics (7680)
Printed Fabrics (8188)
Textile Finishes (8998)
Special Fabrics (99114)
3. Carefully remove the rubberbands from the pack-
et labeled A. Keep the packet upright. Mount
each swatch as you see itface up and longer
sides vertical. (Do not turn the swatch over;
some fabrics have a face and back.)
4. Cut a two-inch piece of tape. When using mask-
ing tape, fold the piece in half with the sticky side
out. Apply the tape to the back of the swatch,
with the two ends of the tape pointing downward,
about 1/2 inch from the top of the sample. The
tape will make it easier to remove swatches for
assignments and experiments, and to return them
to the Fabric Sample Sheets.
H O W T O U S E T H E
5. Press the swatch with the tape in place on
the Fabric Sample Sheet. Cut and remove any
loose yarns extending beyond the edges of the
swatches.
6. Write the fabric name, number, and fiber content
on the Fabric Sample Sheet.
As a helpful example of how the mounting boards
are used, see Swatch #1 Denim below.
Swatch Number: 1
Fabric Name: Denim
Fiber Content: Cotton
Yarn Type: Spun
Weave/Knit Type: 2/1 45 Twill Weave
Yarns/Stitches per Inch: 61 x 48
Method of Coloration: Yarn dyed
Filling: Not dyed
Finish: Calendered
End Use: Jeans
Notes: Not suitable for skinny jeans
Using the Pick Glass
The pick glass has become universal in its applications
in the field of textiles and clothing. Designers,
technicians, students, and teachers have found it to be
an important tool for a better and clearer examination
of fabrics. Yarn types, fabric weaves, knit stitches, and
cloth defects can be more easily identified through its
proper use. The pick glass (enclosed in this Swatch
Kit) is particularly useful to determine the yarns per
inch in woven fabrics or the stitches per inch in knit
fabrics. (Fabric construction is a measure of fabric
quality.) The pick glass (examining glass), or linen
tester, is composed of a frame, magnifying lenses,
and a measured opening in the base opposite the
lenses. When the pick glass is opened properly, the
measuring lines on the base are visible when looking
through the lenses.
Fabrics to be examined should be placed on
a flat, smooth surface. The surface must be well-
lighted. The open pick glass is placed on top of the
cloth and viewed through the lens section. The
users head and not the pick glass should be raised or
lowered for better focus.
F A B R I C S C I E N C E S W A T C H K I T
A viii F
 WHATS IN A FABRIC NAME?

T he Fabric Science Swatch Kit contains many classic woven

and knit fabrics. Most fabric names are rooted in historic
origin and were originally produced only from natural fibers.
However, as manufactured fibers were developed (most within
the 20th century), many of these original fabrics began to be
made from these new fibers. For example, taffeta was originally
made from 100% silk. Now taffeta is made from rayon, acetate,
nylon, or polyester. All taffeta fabrics will have similar appear-
ances, but some properties will be different because of the dif-
ferent fiber content (e.g., strength). Fabric #26 in this swatch
packet is an example of taffeta made from nylon while fabric
#94 is made of acetate.
Another example of a classic fabric originally made only
from silk is fabric #15, bridal satin. This fabric appears similar
to silk satin, but is made from acetate.
Many fabrics do not have historic names. Some of these
have names which describe the general end use. Fabric #21,
bathing-suit fabric, and fabric #111, luggage fabric, are two
such examples. Other fabrics have properties that are unique
and somewhat different from any historic name fabric, or end-
use fabric. These are described by their special properties. Fab-
rics #68, sports jersey, fabric #98, accordion pleat, and fabric
#104, rip stop, are such examples. The woven fabric moir
faille, #31, is an example of a classic fabric whose name also
includes a special fabric property (i.e., moir design).
Look at the various names of the fabrics in the Key to
Fabric Swatches to distinguish the classic name from the non-
classic ones.

A ix F
 J. J. P i z z u t os

FABRIC SCIENCE

tenth edition

Key to Fabric Swatches

Allen C. Cohen
Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Ingrid Johnson
Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Before removing rubberbands from

fabric swatches, refer to Mounting the
Swatches on Fabric Sample Sheets.

2012 Fairchild Books, a division of Cond Nast Publications, Inc.

 FIBERS

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
1 Denim (blue) Cotton Cotton
2 Broken twill (black & grey) Wool (woolen) Wool
3 Tropical worsted (glen plaid) Wool (worsted) Wool
4 Sueded twill (black) Cashmere Cashmere/polyester (blend)
5 3D-design Mohair Mohair/wool (blend)
6 Heather effect (purple) Reprocessed wool Wool and other fibers
7 Taffeta (plaid) Cultivated silk Silk
8 Pongee (ivory) Duoppioni silk Silk
9 Pin check Tussah silk Silk
10 Linen (off-white) Flax Flax
11 Microfiber fabric (army green) Polyester (microfilament) Polyester
12 Hampton twill (black) Lyocell Lyocell
13 Nainsook (aqua) Ramie Ramie
14 Lining (drab olive) Rayon Bemberg rayon
15 Bridal satin (bright blue) Acetate Acetate
Also see:
__
25 Lam Metallic
__
26 Tissue taffeta Nylon
__
34 Pointed twill Spandex
__
49 Jersey knit Acrylic
__
50 Baby jersey Organic cotton
__
64 High pile knit Modacrylic
 YARNS

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
16 Chambray (dk. blue) Carded yarn Cotton
17 Broadcloth (taupe grey) Combed yarn Cotton
18 Linen look (boulder grey) Novelty yarn (thick and thin) Polyester/rayon (blend)
19 Spider knit (white) Textured filament Polyester
20 Novelty suiting Novelty yarns (boucl, tufts, __
plied)
21 Bathing suit fabric (hot pink) 4 way stretch Nylon and spandex
22 Chiffon (pale pink) High twist filament yarn Polyester
23 Georgette (salmon) Crepe twist yarn Polyester
24 Crystal organza (white) Monofilament yarn Nylon
25 Lam (gold) Metallic yarn Metallic and nylon (mixture)
26 Tissue taffeta (pale eggplant) Filament yarn Nylon
27 Shaggy knit (ice blue) Textured yarn and eyelash yarn Polyester and nylon
Also see:
__
31 Faille Fabric mixture
__
35 Sateen Corespun
__
65 Tricot jersey 15d.
__
66 Tricot jersey 40d.
__
78 Lightweight poplin Blended yarn
__
111 Luggage fabric High denier yarn
__
113 Buckram Filling: monofilament
 WOVEN FABRICS

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
28 Gauze (greige) Yarn distortion Cotton
29 Lawn (white) Plain weave (fine) Cotton
30 Batiste (print) Plain weave (printed) Cotton
31 Faille (ice green) Plain weave (ribbed) Warp: acetate
Filling: cotton
32 Cord (mineral green) Cord effect Cotton
33 Chino (beige) Twill weave Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton and spandex
(corespun)
34 Pointed twill (orange crush) Broken twill weave Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton and spandex
(corespun)
35 Sateen (pebble) Satin weave Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton and spandex
(corespun)
36 Antique satin (dusty green) Satin weave (novelty yarn) Warp: acetate
Filling: rayon
37 Striped lining Multiple effect Acetate
38 Piqu (apple green) Piqu weave Cotton
39 Terrycloth (beige) Warp pile weave (uncut) Cotton
40 Corduroy (navy) Filling pile weave (cut) Cotton
41 Velveteen (lagoon) Filling pile weave (cut) Cotton
42 Velvet (patterned) Warp pile weave (cut) Rayon
43 Upholstery velvet (brown) Warp pile weave (cut) Back: cotton
Pile: wool/rayon (blend)
44 Sculpted upholstery velvet Warp pile weave (cut) __
(camel)
45 Evening wear dobby (black) Dobby weave Acetate
46 Tie fabric Dobby weave (long floats) Polyester
47 Natt damask (white) Jacquard weave Cotton
48 Upholstery brocade (sage) Jacquard weave Warp: polyester
Filling: cotton/rayon (blend)
Also see:
__
5 3D-design Long floats
__
9 Pin check Basket weave
__
110 Designer jacquard Jacquard
 KNITTED FABRICS

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
49 Jersey knit (black) Jersey (coarse) Acrylic
50 Baby jersey (greige) Jersey (fine) Cotton (organic, combed
yarns)
51 Rib knit (steel grey) Rib knit (1x1) Cotton
52 Rib knit (black) Rib knit (2x2) Cotton and cotton and span-
dex (corespun)
53 Interlock knit (striped) Ribbed Cotton and polyester (mixture)
54 Interlock knit (cobalt) Interlock Polyester
55 French terry (blue) Lay in yarn Ground: cotton
Lay in: polyester/cotton (blend)
56 Knit window pane check Knit jacquard Acrylic
57 Slinky (maroon) Supple drape Acetate, nylon, and spandex
58 Knit terry (orange) Loop-knit (uncut) Pile: cotton
Ground: cotton and polyester
59 Knit velour (baby blue) Loop-knit (cut) Pile: cotton
Ground: cotton and polyester
60 Argyle Argyle pattern White: cotton
Blue: polyester
61 Thermal knit type (white) Patterning with tuck stitches Polyester and cotton (mixture)
62 Puckered jersey (celery) Crinkle effect Polyester/spandex (corespun)
__
63 Fancy jersey Lay in yarns for surface effect
64 High pile knit (fake fur) High pile knit Modacrylic
65 Tricot jersey (white) Tricot (15d.) Nylon
66 Tricot jersey (black) Tricot (40d.) Nylon
67 Satin tricot (metallic print) Satin tricot Polyester
68 Sports jersey (silver) Tricot mesh Nylon
69 Tulle (red) Raschel (sheer) Nylon
Also see:
__
74 Raschel lace Raschel lace
__
84 Ponte di roma Interlock
__
95 Pann velour Crushed, flattened surface
__
107 Matelass knit Quilted effect
 OTHER TYPES OF TEXTILES

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
70 Interfacing Web nonwoven Polyester and rayon
71 Fusible nonwoven interfacing Fusible web nonwoven Polyester and rayon (polyester
dots)
72 Felt (navy) Felt Wool and polyester
73 Eyelet fabric (white) Embroidered fabric Polyester/cotton (blend)
74 Raschel lace (purple) Raschel lace Nylon
75 Quilted material Quilted material Shell: acetate
Filler: polyester
Scrim: polyester

DYED FABRICS

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
76 Greige goods Greige goods Cotton
77 Iridescent (magenta) Piece dyed (cross) Blue: nylon
Pink: polyester
78 Lightweight poplin (peacock) Piece dyed (union) Polyester/cotton (blend)
79 Madras (plaid) Yarn dyed Cotton
80 Gingham (black and white) Yarn dyed Polyester/cotton (blend)
Also see:
__
13 Nainsook Piece dyed
__
112 Market umbrella fabric Solution dyed
 PRINTED FABRICS

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
81 Printed check (black and Printed woven design Polyester/cotton (blend)
white)
82 Flannelette (print) Printed(napped finish) Cotton
83 Calico Blotch print Polyester/cotton (blend)
84 Ponte di roma (yellow) Overprint (pigment) Polyester
85 French piqu (stripe) Heat transfer print Polyester
86 ITY (blue print) ITY fabric Polyester and spandex
(corespun)
87 Burn-out batiste Burn-out design (sheer effect) Cotton with polyester core
(white)
88 Burn-out velvet (black) Burn-out design (pile effect) Rayon and polyester (mixture)
Also see:
__
99 Liquid lam Allover metallic effect

TEXTILE FINISHES

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
89 Staybright fabric* (orange) Bleach resistant color Cotton/polyester (blend)
90 Drill (olive) Suede finish Cotton
91 Brushed knit (lemon) Brushed (napped) finish Polyester
92 Paper taffeta (classic blue) Water repellent finish Nylon
93 Chintz (pink) Glazed calender finish Cotton
94 Moir taffeta (black) Moir finish Acetate
95 Pann Velour (silver grey) Crushed (flattened) surface Polyester and spandex
(corespun)
96 Stretch pliss (blue and white) Pucker effect Warp: cotton
Filling: cotton and spandex
(corespun)
97 Seersucker (multicolor) Seersucker Cotton
98 Accordion pleat Pleating Polyester
Also see:
17 Broadcloth Mercerized and compressive __
shrinkage finish
__
31 Faille Moir finish
__
76 Greige goods Greige goods
__
79 Madras Fabric not mercerized
__
105 Yoryu Heat set crinkle effect
__
113 Buckram Stiffening finish
*Courtesy of WestPoint Home
 SPECIAL FABRICS

Swatch
Fabric Description Purpose of Swatch Fiber Content
Number
99 Liquid lam Allover metallic effect Polyester
100 Coated fabric (brown) Down proof Nylon
101 Allover flock (blue grey) Flocking Flock: nylon
Back: polyester/cotton (blend)
102 Moleskin (dusty pink) Lightly sueded finish Warp: polyester
Filling: polyester and spandex
(corespun)
103 Poplinette (grey gull) Supplex nylon Supplex nylon
104 Rip stop fabric (silver sage) Rip stop Nylon
105 Yoryu (coral) Crinkle effect Polyester
106 Fortuny satin (antique white) Fortuny effect Rayon
107 Matelass knit (brown) Quilted effect Polyester
108 Polar fleece type (navy)

Double brushed fabric Polyester
109 Vinyl rainwear (black) Waterproof vinyl coating Face: vinyl
Back: polyester
110 Designer jacquard Accessory fabric Face: nylon and rayon
(mixture)
Back: vinyl
111 Luggage fabric High denier yarn Nylon
112 Market umbrella fabric** Sunbrella acrylic Acrylic
113 Buckram Stiffening finish Warp: cotton
Filling: polyester monofilament
114 Placemat material Plastic coated Nylon
**Courtesy of Glen Raven
 FABRIC SCIENCE SWATCH KIT / Fabric Sample Sheet

Swatch Swatch Swatch

Swatch Number Swatch Number Swatch Number

Fabric Name Fabric Name Fabric Name

Fiber Content Fiber Content Fiber Content

Yarn Type Yarn Type Yarn Type

Weave/Knit Type Weave/Knit Type Weave/Knit Type

Yarns/Stitches per Inch Yarns/Stitches per Inch Yarns/Stitches per Inch

Method of Coloration Method of Coloration Method of Coloration

Finish Finish Finish

End Use End Use End Use

Notes Notes Notes

Fairchild Books, a division of Cond Nast Publications, Inc.