[SPH: ST-LIFE-PAGES <LIF-001> [LIFE -1 ] ...

24/08/10] Author:MERLENE Date:24/08/10 Time:16:48

PART
C Don’t miss Metz
New Pompidou Centre
to draw museum-goers
Uncanned
laughter
Malaysian
New recipe,
same story
Fried Rice
actress promises Paradise is
humour in better, but
new festival not yummy
TUESDAY, AUGUST 24 2010 C2 C7 C8

Colombia’s crime and drug past is no more.

Its citizens are all too keen to show off its
magnificent coffee farms and cultural
destinations. MERLENE MICHAEL reports
from the Latin American country.

In Bogota, Plaza De Bolivar is a

great place to observe how Bogotenos
spend time with their families.
DESIGN: QUEK HONG SHIN PHOTOS: PROEXPORT COLOMBIA, ALISON DE SOUZA and SINGAPORE REPERTORY THEATRE
 [SPH: ST-LIFE-PAGES <LIF-004> [LIFE -4 ] ... 24/08/10]
life! travel
쐽 THE STRAITS TIMES TUESDAY, AUGUST 24 2010 PAGE C4
Colombia’s true colours
Get lost in the narrow cobbled streets of Cartagena, a seaport facing the Caribbean Sea. PHOTOS: PROEXPORT COLOMBIA
Latin American nation
shows off its beauty
and culture as it leaves
its violent past behind
merlene michael
L
ush rainforests, architectural
wonders and pristine beaches
and plantations. It was not
what I was expecting.
The picture of Colombia in
my head had been set by what I had
read in most accounts and seen in mov-
ies such as Mr & Mrs Smith (2005) and
Romancing The Stone (1984) – a rural
country where thugs and lawlessness
ruled. There was no hint of a land of as-
tonishing natural beauty and diversity.
For much of the 20th century,
Colombia’s beauty has been oversha-
dowed by its ugly side. Although Pablo
Escobar’s reign as head of the Medellin
drug cartel ended in 1993 when he was
gunned down by police, the Latin Amer-
ican nation has had a hard time shaking
off its image as one of the most danger-
ous countries in the world.
With a dramatic improvement in
security in recent years, however, it is
enjoying a new confidence. The econo-
my is thriving, unemployment is down,
murder and kidnapping rates have
plunged, and the only boom talked
about is in property prices as hotels and
homes sprout all over the country. The
people are determined to change their
country’s reputation and show off the
new Colombia to the rest of the world.
You could say Colombia is the Cin-
derella story in Latin America right
now. The crime and drug trade has by
no means disappeared, but most Colom-
bians will tell you their country feels
safer and that it is not just for the brave
anymore.
merlene@sph.com.sg
The writer’s trip was sponsored by
Proexport-Colombia Tourist Office.
Author:MERLENE Date:24/08/10
Soak in the bohemian feel
of the old historic centre,
known as La Candelaria.
Bogota: Culture in the capital
The transformation of Colombia is evi-
dent in its capital, Bogota. Nestled high
in the Andes at 2,620m above sea level,
it has changed in recent years into a cos-
mopolitan city full of museums and res-
taurants.
It does not sweep you off your feet at
first glance. You need to take time to
wander in the streets for its charms to
strike you. A good place to start is the
old historic centre known as La Candelar-
ia. It houses several universities, librar-
ies, museums, cafes and theatres, lend-
ing the area a bohemian feel.
We were told that a visit to the Museo
Botero (Botero Museum) was the thing to
do in Bogota and it did not disappoint.
The magnificent 208-piece collection
was donated by the country’s greatest liv-
ing artist Fernando Botero, famous for
his “fat people” paintings and sculp-
tures.
The museum (admission is free) con-
tains 123 of his own works along with 85
pieces by an impressive range of Europe-
an masters such as Picasso, Dali and Mat-
isse. The Botero collection, catalogued as
the most important art exhibition in the
country, is housed in a beautifully
restored colonial mansion. Take time to
walk through the courtyards to appreci-
ate the architecture.
Another must-see is the Museo del
Oro or Gold Museum (admission: $2).
The dazzling display of gold collection in
the form of ornaments, coins and arte-
facts is the biggest in the world and
offers a journey through the country’s
Time:16:48
pre-Hispanic cultures and their religions
and myths.
As in many Latin American towns, the
central square serves as the social centre
of the city. And the nearby Plaza De Boli-
var (Simon Bolivar Square) is a great
place to people-watch and observe how
Bogotenos spend time with their fami-
lies. The square is surrounded by several
government buildings and the presiden-
tial palace (Casa de Narino). Open to the
public upon application one week in
advance, the beautiful, heavily guarded
fortress is not only the residence of the
president, but it also houses works of art
from different years.
To get a view of Bogota from dizzying
heights, we took a funicular and zipped
up to Monserrate. Right next to the La
Candelaria district, it is a gorgeous hill
that has become the city’s symbol. From
various vantage points, you can look
over downtown Bogota and the historic
old town as well as over most of the rest
of the city.
This peak of 3,160m is also a famous
religious site. On top of the mountain is
a church with a statue of the Fallen
Christ visited by hundreds of pilgrims
every day.
Just behind the church are rows of
stalls selling all kinds of souvenirs. What
caught our attention was the coca tea
that came from the coca plant, from
which the drug cocaine is also derived. It
is completely legal and does not have a
narcotic effect. But we were told it does
help to relieve altitude sickness.
Cartagena: Carribean vibe
Hot, sultry, colourful and filled
with tradition and music, Cartage-
na is my favourite stop in Colom-
bia. Perched on the northern coast
and facing the Caribbean Sea, it
enjoys year-round tropical weather
and warm seas.
You can laze by the beachfront,
but the attractions are really in the
old city, surrounded by an impres-
sive wall built to thwart pirate
attacks.
With its narrow cobbled streets,
pastel plazas and balconies creaking
under the weight of bougainvillea,
Cartagena looks and feels like you
have stepped back into its colonial
past. Little wonder that the seaport
is a Unesco World Heritage site.
Did you know Cartagena was the
place that fuelled the fiction of
Colombian novelist Gabriel Garcia
Marquez? Although he spends most
of his time in Mexico City, the 83-
year-old has a home in Cartagena.
You cannot miss the ochre-col-
oured house at the corner of Calle
Zerrezuela and Calle del Curato in
the San Diego district. We were
privileged to meet his brother,
Jaime, who took this group of Asian
journalists on a walking tour that
his brother had in mind when writ-
ing Love In The Time Of Cholera.
Another way to see the old town
is to rent a horse and carriage
(about $20). If you need a refresh-
ing break from the heat, stop one of
the palenqueras. Dressed in colour-
ful dresses, these women elegantly
sway their hips while balancing
bowls of fresh fruit and juices on
their heads.
Just remember, time slows down
a little here: Hotel staff are in no
hurry to check you in and your
lunch arrives at least half an hour
after you have placed your order.
We were taken to Convento de la
Popa, a hilltop convent at the city’s
highest point which offers splendid
views of the old and new towns.
Merengue, salsa, cumbia and other
infectious Latin beats greeted us as
we climbed up the winding road in
a minivan. It was not a block party,
but rather, friendly rivalry among
neighbours to see whose stereo sys-
tem could outplay the rest.
Cartagena is really two cities in
one: the old restored colonial town
behind its majestic walls and the
new town which is less charming
with its high-rise condominiums,
modern hotels, movie theatres and
shopping districts.
If there is any reason to leave the
old city, it would be to climb the
massive Castillo de San Felipe Bara-
jas (San Felipe castle and fortress).
In the evenings, the cool winds
and lively music lead visitors to Pla-
za Santo Domingo. Afro-Caribbean
dancers put on regular performanc-
es there, making the outdoor cafes a
perfect spot for people-watching.
We were told the sunsets in
Cartagena are magical, so we
strolled over to Cafe del Mar, a bar
located on the fortress walls. It was
true. As I sipped my pina colada, I
could not take my eyes off the spec-
tacular view of the sky turning a
brilliant shade of red and orange.
Thirsty? Stop a palenquera
for some fresh fruit.
More on facing page
 [SPH: ST-LIFE-PAGES <LIF-005> [LIFE -5 ] ... 24/08/10] Author:MERLENE Date:24/08/10 Time:16:48

life! travel
쐽 THE STRAITS TIMES TUESDAY, AUGUST 24 2010 PAGE C5

Medellin: Transformed city
The renowned beauty of its women,
year-round spring-like weather and gor-
geous hills and flowers draw visitors to
Medellin.
The star of the city is Santo Domingo
because of its remarkable transforma-
tion from the drug-fuelled Pablo Esco-
bar past. Just six years ago, it would
have been unthinkable to venture any-
where in one of the poorest neighbour-
hoods. But here we were in a shiny cable
car, hanging just metres above the hill-
side slum dotted with thousands of tight-
ly packed zinc-roofed shacks.
Gazing down, I could make out cafete-
rias, schools, colourful playgrounds
filled with parents and kids and laugh-
ing children racing down the steep
streets on skateboards. It all looked so
normal. There was no clue that Medellin
– Colombia’s second-largest city after
Bogota – was once the murder capital of
the world, where streets were deserted
before sunset as Escobar and his men
murdered policemen and set off car
bombs across the city.
Today, even tourists are queuing to
visit Medellin, curious to learn about its
violent past and why it is a global model
for transformation. The drug lord, who
is buried in Medellin, would not have
believed the transformation if he were
to see it.
The city is home to half a dozen uni-
Stop at Plaza Botero to admire more than 20 large bronze sculptures on display.
versities as well as Colombia’s largest
industrial centre, with factories making
everything from designer clothing to
SUVs. It is also nicknamed the city of
sculptures, earning several architectural
awards, one of which is for the Parque
Biblioteca Espana (Library in the Park).
The library, one of five erected in
low-income zones in Medellin, stands
out sharply from the ragged hollow-
brick houses that surround it. Three
hulking structures include a library,
auditorium, Internet rooms, day-care
centre and art gallery.
On our way there, we were stopped
by 13-year-old Sebastian (he would give
only his first name) and his friend Jhon
Deiby Restrepo, 15. They were not mug-
gers. The boys wanted to say, “Hola”
(hello) and could not wait to show off
their new, safe neighbourhood. They
pointed to murals and the library and
regaled us with tales of their neighbour- WHERE TO STAY
hood’s transformation. It did not matter
쐽 BOGOTA
that we did not speak Spanish, but we Grand House Suites
understood.
Where: Carrera 18 No. 93-97,
The paisas (residents of Medellin) are tel: +57-1-403-4000, go to
proud of their city’s progress. And
www.suitesgrandhouse.com
Colombian people, in general, are What: Some rooms have fully
known to be remarkably warm and wel-
equipped kitchenettes. From
coming as they only recently opened up US$199 (S$270) for a superior
to the outside world and are grateful deluxe room
that you have come to visit.
쐽 MEDELLIN
You have not truly visited Medellin if Medellin Royal Hotel
you do not try the bandeja paisa (from
Where: Carrera 42 5 Sur 130,
about $13). So we sat down to a lunch of tel: +57-4-448-5700,
a huge platter of frijol (beans), rice, chi- go to www.medellinroyal.com
charron (pork rinds), avocado, plantain, What: Sparse but clean rooms.
chorizo, a fried egg and arepa (cornmeal From US$100 for a superior room
patty). It was all washed down with a
쐽 CARTAGENA
tall glass of lulo, a citrusy fruit juice pop- Bantu Hotel & Lifestyle
ular in the country. The paisas sure eat Where: Calle de la Tablada
well. No. 7-62, tel: +57-5-664-3362,
We needed to walk off that hearty e-mail info@bantuhotel.com
meal so Parque Explora was the perfect What: This colonial-style boutique
destination. It was fun and educational hotel has an outdoor pool, a jacuzzi
to walk around the large complex with and a Turkish bath. From US$178
various science museums and displays. for a superior twin room
I also learnt why Medellin is known 쐽 CAFE TRIANGLE
as the city of parks and plazas as we Hotel La Navarra
strolled around downtown Medellin lat- Where: Kilometro 4 via Armenia –
er. A stop at Plaza Botero is a must to Tapao Town, tel: +57-6-744-
admire more than 20 large bronze sculp- 2000, e-mail lanavarrahotel
tures on display. campestre@hotmail.com
We ended the day with a visit to Pue- What: Its outdoor dining area
blito Paisa. Located on top of Nutivara overlooks hills and plantations.
Hill, it is a replica of what a little town’s From $88 for a single room
main square would have looked like 100
years ago.

Cafe Triangle: Coffee talk
For a taste of a more tranquil and tradi-
tional Colombia, we headed for the hills,
or rather the Cafe Triangle (coffee
region) comprising the three depart-
ments of Quindio, Caldas and Risaralda.
Here, plump hillsides teem with plan-
tain and banana trees as well as coffee
plants (right) and giant bursts of bam-
boo, and is popular with those seeking
to slip back to nature.
Besides a coffee trail to show how
Colombia became a world leader in the
production of coffee, the area is filled
with hidden treasures such as bird and
butterfly sanctuaries.
Still bleary-eyed from the early morn-
ing flight from Bogota to Armenia, the
capital of Quindio, we were met at the
airport by Mr Jason Alberto, a sensorial
analyst (aka master coffee taster) from
El Agrado Coffee Farm. He promised us
the best cappuccino in the world, but
first we had to trot out to the farm to
learn how coffee beans are planted, har-
vested and processed.
Mr Alberto is one of several master
tasters in the area and his job includes
educating the growers on how to pro-
duce the best coffee for export. This
Getting there
involves tasting up to 250 cups of coffee $36). I cringed when told that it was a There are
a day. “You could say coffee runs in my theme park, but soon discovered that it no direct Caribbean
Sea
veins,” jokes the 36-year-old. was not just another tourist trap. flights
Cartagena
Following the “field trip”, he led us Besides rides, the vast park had a coffee from
on a short hike to an outdoor cafe in the museum, eco-walk and a very entertain- Singapore
VENEZUELA
lush bamboo forest where we learnt to ing song-and-dance show on how cof- to
Medellin
make the perfect cup of coffee. fee came to be the country’s top export. Colombia.
Next on the agenda: a coffee cupping After a long day out and half a dozen Fly Delta Risaralda Caldas
session. As one would do in a wine shots of coffee later, we retreated to our Airlines Quindio
appreciation class, we sniffed and from Bogota
hacienda, a creaky but quaint farm-
slurped to determine the taste, flavour, house nestled among a luxuriant garden Singapore COLOMBIA
fragrance and aroma of the brewed cof-
of coffee plantations. It had a big porch to Bogota,
fee.
filled with old leather chairs and ham- via Tokyo
After about an hour, we were treated and the BRAZIL
mocks offering panoramic views of the SOUTH
to a cappuccino as promised. It was deli- United AMERICA
cious, to say the least: rich, creamy, mountains and rolling hills.
States
bittersweet, almost like good-quality While some mingled with the locals PERU
(New
dark chocolate. The baristas smiled and and sipped on aguardiente, an anise- York/Los
nodded in approval – my coffee cupping flavoured alcoholic drink that is a nation- ST GRAPHICS
Angeles),
lessons had paid off. al favourite, I could not think of a better for about $3,395. Air France takes you to
Later that afternoon, we had another way to end the day than to climb into a Bogota via Paris for about $3,420. In
taste of Colombia’s coffee culture spend- hammock with a tinto (small cup of Colombia, national airline Avianca
ing the day at Parque Nacional del Cafe black coffee) and enjoy the unspoilt (www.avianca.com) gets you from city
(National Coffee Park, admission: $14 to view. to city in less than an hour, from as
little as $150 for a round trip.

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