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This page contains some information about conversing carburetted Opel Manta/Ascona to
Bosch LE-Jetronic injection. Information can be used also with L-Jetronic with minor
changes.
Easiest way is to visit a some good junk yard where people understand basic things about
Bosch's injection and can break injected car reasonable way and collect all needed parts
for conversion.
1. Start injector
2. Thermo time switch
3. injectors
4. throttle valve switch
5. air flow meter
6. extra air valve
7. temperature sensor (water)
8. distributor
9. ignition coil
10. battery
11. wiring harness
12. car's wirings
13. control unit
14. connection to coil (negative)
15. center earth
16. control relay
Figures for gasoline lines. Yellow lines marks pressurized fuel, orange marks non-
pressurized line back to tank. Hoses must be good quality and pressure tolerating stuff. A
new pipe must be installed (diam. 8mm) from tank to engine room for pressurized fuel.
Original pipe can be used for flow back to tank (if you are not serious tuner).
Fuel pump assemby. Upper arrow describes flow from tank (diam. 12mm) lower arrow
means pressurized flow to injection system. Usually original tank for E-engine is not
available so modifications are needed. Original location of this assembly is somewhere
under luggage compartment but it is more wise to install it to luggage compartment and
protect it with some metal shield. Outside the car's chassis is corrosion real problem...
Control relay
Wiring diagram 1.control plug 2.earth 3.temperature sensor 4.earth 5. extra air valve
6.throttle valve switch 7.air flow meter 8.thermo time switch 9.start injector 10.injector
11.battery 12.control relay 13.fuse of fuel pump 14.fuel pump
Engine block has extra plug (hex) under exthaust manifold near cyl. 4. Remove that and
put some suitable connector for water from heater.
Original fuel pump is useless and can be removed. Install a thick (5mm) steel plate over
pumps hole.
Wiring diagrams don't show clear that green extra wire from control unit should be
connected to negative of ignition coil.
Adjusting
Normally after installing engine starts and works. However if idling is poor, mixture and
idle speed can be adjusted. Check all rubber hoses and connections before adjusting.
Some data:
Introduction
It is not my intention to explain how a fuel injection works. Through the Internet you'll find
a lot of interesting information on these systems. I wish only to explain some devices,
their workings, and how to tune them. If there is something I have forgotten to mention,
feel free to ask about it on the Message Board.
All Opel CIH engines were equipped with Bosch Fuel Injection Systems.
On the Commodore A and B the injection system was called D Jetronic. Beginning with the
Kadett C GTE Opel fitted the newest L Jetronic system.
D JETRONIC System
L or LE JETRONIC System
In this system, the air is measured through a vane type airflow sensor. The sensor
contains a flap that is connected to a potentiometer. The more the flap is open (more air
sucked passed the flap), the greater the electrical signal sent to the ECU (up to 5V).
Not like in the D Jetronic case, the airflow meter causes a restriction on the inlet tract. If
you compare the cross-sectional area of a 2.0E airflow meter with the cross-sectional area
of the 2.0E throttle body, you will find that the cross-sectional area of the airflow meter is
smaller, even if the airflow meter flap is held in the fully opened position. Also, the meter
is fitted with an air temperature sensor, and the flap stop (end travel), which both reduce
the cross-sectional area of the meter even further. Probably, Bosch kept the area in the
meter smaller than the throttle to maintain a high and consistent airflow velocity, so
gaining accuracy in airflow measurement.
The distance from the throttle body to the airflow meter plays a part in the engine
response when accelerating. The nearer the airflow meter is located to the throttle, the
faster the meter shows changes in airflow, which means the engine will respond quicker to
throttle movement.
On the OEM (Original Equipment Manafucturer) airbox cover (i.e. as used on the Opel
Rekord E), there is a square tube before the inlet to the airflowmeter. DO NOT REMOVE
THIS TUBE, it will cause a reduction in engine torque at low-end or over the whole rev
range. It is used to straighten the airflow before it reaches the meter, which is very
important for correct operation of the airflow sensor.
It is easy to check whether you have the L-Jetronic, or the newer LE-Jetronic system fitted
to your car
- The L-Jetronic ECU has 35 pins, while the LE-Jetronic has only 25 pins.
Opening the cover of the airflow meter (carefully using a screwdriver) you'll find the
carbon (black) resistor track, the wiper (with two points for safety), and contacts for the
fuel pump and air temp sensor. After many Km of use (approximately 100.000Km), you
can experience a choppy idle caused by a worn resistor track on the meter.
When you discover small white holes along the black track, this means that
you have open circuit in that point giving erratic readings to the ECU. The
first and easy mod you can do is to slightly unbolt the four Philips screws
that are retaining the whole circuit, then reposition it in a different location
on the carbon track (up or down), so the wiper will find a 'fresh' carbon
track.
The meter and sometimes some relays are the only weak points I've found
on these systems. The system is normally very reliable!
To keep the fuel pressure stable at the injectors there is a fuel pressure regulator. To
maintain the same difference of pressures between the manifold (where the injectors are
spraying) and the fuel inlet line. The regulator has an additional connection to the plenum
through a hose. At idle, you have a vacuum within the manifold, since the throttle is
closed. In this condition, you must have a lower fuel pressure at the injectors. At a higher
pressure (or less vacuum) condition, up to full load, you have to increase the fuel
pressure. This should explain the matter of that hose. The regulator has two inlets and one
outlet, a pipe for the vaacum and it is not adjustable. You can only check that
disconnecting the vaacum hose with engine at idle (blocking the manifold pipe!) the fuel
pressure increase (ca 0.5 bar) and the mixture become richer.
The trigger signal for RPM is now taken from the negative pin of the coil.
A tuned engine needs more air and more fuel to release any power gain, obviously...
Airflow:
-Throttle body.
You can fit a throttle body from a Monza 3.0 onto a 2.0 engine manifold, by welding a new
alloy plate onto the manifold. The new throttle is mounted on this plate. 2.0 engines have
55mm throttle diameter, whilst the Monza has a 65mm throttle diameter. With easy
calculations, you find that the Monza throttle theoretically flows 40% more air than the
55mm throttle body. Only slight mods are required to fit the Monza throttle cable, by
matching the parts from the two bodies and cutting a leg of the support of the 2.0 throttle
cable. To make a good job you have to check that the inlet of the manifold is not smaller
than the throttle outlet.
BMW series 3500 has an even bigger throttle diameter (70mm!), but I think that it is too
big for a 4 cylinder cih. Keep in mind that a bigger throttle makes the car more difficult to
drive at low revs. A slight movement of the throttle pedal will cause a larger increase of
air, and fuel, to be breathed by the engine, than with a smaller throttle diameter. As a
rule, if a given throttle is ok for 6 cyl, it is probably too small for a 4 cyl engine of the
same displacement and same state of tune. Why is this? After all, a 3.0 engine has 180 HP
while a 2.0 engine has only 110 HP. It happens that a 4 cyl engine has longer delay
between engine pulsations which are coming from the cyliders. A 6 cyls has more pulses
per amount of time. More, a 6 cyl manifold contains more air volume to fill the cylinders.
A>B for engine with same displacement but differents
number of cylinders (i.e. 2.5cc on 4 cyl and 2.5 on six
cyl and same hp target). The engine with 4 cylinders
needs a throath bigger than the six cylinder engine!
Airflowmeter:
Airbox
The airbox from the Monza can contain a larger volume of air, so it is always a good idea
to use it. Here 'the bigger the better' is the rule. Don't cut (again!) the 'extension' of the
meter's inlet inside the airbox cover. That tube helps to straighten the airflow, acting like a
sort of trumpet.
At the air inlet to the airbox, there is a sort of cone that has a very small diameter, this is
for silencing purposes. You can remove this from the airbox inlet, if you wish. As far as the
'minimize air restriction' rule can be applied, this mod does no harm, but remember that
you have to make a sort of trumpet (as on the original piece) to help flow. Then, fit an
extension to the trumpet, to suck cold air from the grille. The colder the air, the denser the
air, which means the greater the HP produced.
If I remember correctly, Jamex produces a foam filter which completely replaces the
bottom of the airbox, giving a full breathing surface. This item is manufactured and sold as
a mod for the Golf GTI II (K Jetronic), but, from my memory, the air filter used on the Golf
and those used on Rekord, Manta have identical dimensions. So you may be able to fit one
of these beautiful foam filters.
On the K&N site, (Sorry no link present here until Cicco tells it, webmasters comment)
there is a formula to calculate the required filter surface for a given application.
Fuel system
I will start by telling you that if you've converted a carburetted car in a fuel injection
system and the outlet from the fuel tank is still the same (8mm diameter), then your fuel
pump will have difficulty sucking fuel from the tank. The pump has a 12mm inlet diameter
and the fuel tank must be fitted with a 12mm outlet, to give best operation. This will also
help to maintain a stable fuel pressure to the injectors.
You can increase the fuel flow by fitting larger injectors, by increasing the injector opening
time, or by increasing the fuel pressure.
Injectors:
The 2.0 injectors fitted on L Jetronic (grey colour) are 0280 150 105 Bosch number. This
injector flows 187 cc per minute at 3 bar fuel pressure, it is called 'Style 5' or hose type
(no C clips on fuel rail) and it has a low impedance (about 3 OHMs).
you'll find that these injectors are good for up to 160 HP (at continous flow!). 150-160 has
been practically the limit.
If you need more fuel you can fit 0280 150 152 injectors from an Alfa 75 Turbo. Four of
them are ok up to 200 HP at the same fuel pressure. The fitting of the injectors is
unchanged.
If you need even more fuel there is the 0280 150 151 injectors from BMW 3.0 L (6 cyls),
Jaguar 4.2 L (6 cyls), Volvo B200/B230, Citroen CX 2.3. Four of them are ok up to 260 HP,
at same fuel pressure and are easy to fit.
The injectors fitted on LE-Jetronic system (yellow-amber) are 0280 150 205 Bosch. They
flow 170cc per minute each at 2.5 bar fuel pressure, the fitting is 'Style 5', but they have
high impedance (13-16OHMs). A high impedance injector means that it reacts faster to the
ECU signals. With these injectors the max power target is 148HP.
Keep in mind that a bigger injector will enrich the A/F ratio at all throttle positions, and
that if much bigger, it will be hard to tune at low revs.
Some sources say that up to 50% bigger injectors can be used with these LE-Jets so that
correct A/F ratio can be achieved by easy tuning. (wm's comment).
Fuel pressure:
You can increase the fuel pressure up to the point that the injector will never open
( caused by excessive pressure on the rear face of the injector valve), or achieve nearly no
gain due to the fact that flow through an orifice is not directly proportional to the pressure,
but is also dependent on the orifice size!
BTW, there is another formula to calculate the fuel flow after increasing the fuel pressure:
square root (( new fuel pressure / old fuel
pressure )* flow at old fuel pressure)
i.e.like at school:
if yellow injectors flow 175cc per minute at standard Original 2.5
fuel pressure, how much they'll flow if the pressure will be
increased at 3 bar?
Development:
3 : 2.5 = 1.2.
Square root of 1.2 is about 1.1
1.1 x 175cc = 192cc
So the yellow injector cans flow 192cc per minute with a pressure of 3 bar, good for up to
about 160 HP. With 3.5 bar, the theoretical HP is 175. Above 3.5 bar the injector shows its
limits.
Note that the fuel flow is always calculated with a fully opened injector. To let it cooler you
have to close it for a some aumont of time (Dwell time), thus reduce the calculated hp's of
about 15-20%.
The fuel pressure regulators on L/LE Jetronic systems are not adjustable. From what I
know, the fuel pressure (with vacuum hose disconnected) is 3.0 bar for L-Jetronic systems,
and 2.5 bar for the LE-Jetronic system.
As you can see on the pic there's a spring which is pre-tensioned. Increasing this pre-
tension will reduce the fuel returning in the tank, so increasing the pressure along the
injectors fuel rail. The FSE adjustable fuel pressure regulators (Malpassi, Weber) have just
a screw to increase the pre-tension up to the point where you can completely obstruct the
return line, so achieving max fuel pump pressure (around 5 bar when the pump is NEW!).
In reality the lines are 'parallel' up to the point where the force of the spring overcomes
the vaacum in the manifold.
To have a longer opening time you have to fool the ECU, modifying the values coming
from the sensors. The ECU has to see an increased engine load, a lower water temp or a
lower air temp.
Air sensor
The air sensor fitted on the airmeter is an NTC resistor: as temp increases so its resistance
become less.
It has little influence on the opening time. Physics laws say that a colder air is denser than
a hotter one, thus to maintain the correct A/F ratio you need more fuel. Disconnecting it
means an open circuit (infinite Ohm) for the ECU=a very low air temp=bigger opening
time! Short-circuiting the sensor means a closed circuit =hot air=less fuel. Fitting a
resistive trimmer in series or in parallel to the air sensor you could find the correct A/F
ratio. Be aware that in this way you are increasing or decreasing the A/F ratio throughout
the engine range.
Like the air sensor, also the water temp sensor it is a NTC device. But since it is related to
the engine temp, it has a bigger influence on the opening time of the injectors. A colder
engine needs more fuel to run. Here the mods are the same (an additional resistor in
series or parallel) like for the air sensor, but the increased-decreased opening time is much
more dramatic. As with the Air Temp Sensor, you are increasing or decreasing the A/F
ratio throughout the engine range.
Airflow meter
This is the most difficult part to tune. Engines are mapped following their torque curve, not
the hp's curve. Normally an engine needs the biggest fuel flow when it is working at its
max torque point. Here the VE (volumetric efficiency) is the biggest, you are getting max
air cylinders' filling. Past the max torque point, the VE is slowing reduced (depending on
engine's configuration) and the engine will needs less fuel than before. Sometimes, tuners
(and car's manufacturers) map the engine management to enrich again the A/F ratio at
higher load/revs after max VE point. This is done only for a safety reason, in fact a richer
ratio with an excess of fuel, helps the cooling effect within the comb chambers. BTW, this
happens with engine that have only one point of max Torque. If your engine has two
points (or better a valley in the shape of the torque curve, due to exhaust/inlet
configuration, you'll need again an enrichment of the ratio.
All these examples are reffered at WOT (wide open throttle). With medium and light loads,
your engine will needs less fuel cause less cylinder filling (reduced VE).
If the engine has a fat and large torque curve, the mapping is much more easy. You'll need
to spray near the same quantity of fuel all along the torque curve. Also ignition mapping is
more easy for the same reason. If your engine has a sudden and steep curve (a 'nervous'
engine to drive) fuelling requirements are really differents along the curves. Here both inj
and ign maps are a bit hard to set.
After the engine pasts the point (or points) of max VE to reach max hp's point, the fuelling
is only a function of the increased rpm's. Yes, you need more fuel to reach max hp's but
from now is only a function of engine speed. As speed increases, so fuel increases
(injectors pulses are with the crankshaft/distributor linked).
The potentiometer in the airflowmeters fitted on L/LE systems reach its end of the travel
depending on the engine and its configuration. I've seen meters going flat out before max
VE, at max VE and past max VE. Once the meters reach the end of its travel, the opening
time drove by the ECU to the injectors remains a fixed value. In turn, the meter is not able
to calculate increased airflow once it reached WOF (wide open flap).
If you vary the VE of the engine increasing its airflow potential , you'll probably need
(depending on state of tune) a meter's recalibration or a bigger meter.
How to check if the meter is too small, its max travel, without having a roller-dyno too see
it directly? An easy way (without to drill inlet's components to fit vaacum gauges) is using
a multimeter in = V setted (10V full scale), putting the black terminal on the left side of
the carbon track (low voltage, where the wipe seats at ignition key off position) and the
red terminal on the wipe terminal. With engine off and key ign on, open by hand the flap
completely (WOF) and measure its voltage. Start the engine, drive the car in 3rd gear, at
WOT from 2000 rpm upward to max rpm's, and with the multimeter in hand look where
the meter is reaching that measured voltage. If you know the state of tune of your engine,
you'll able also to recognize if the meter is too small or not. When you accelerate violently,
the flap will soon goes flat open, for a matter of phisics laws and engine config, just for
some seconds, then it will stabilize itself with a stable reading. Remember that is true that
after max VE point you don't need more fuel, but could happen that (if you've increased a
lot the rpm potential than as in origin) the meter passage begins to restrict the airflow,
just cause the airflow velocity is faster than before (increased VE and bigger rpm's
potential) and is not able to pass throught the meter orifice. Also note that, at some
extents, the spread between the max torque value and max hp value is given by the
stroke/rod lenght combo. A long rod/stroke combo tends to have narrow distance between
hp and torque highest values and viceversa.
Point A are the resistances along the carbon track yet mentioned before.
Point B is the mixture screw. It is a bypass of air over the flap. Tightening the screw
(closing the bypass) means to have a bigger aperture of the flap, thus a greater signal to
the ECU, thus a richer fuel flow. Keep in mind that this screw has effect only for about the
first 1/3 travel of the flap, hence you are varying the light loads conditions.
Point C is that device that enstabilishes (?) the correlation between airflow and electric
signal to the ECU. Routing the toothed gear in clock sense (?) means that you're increasing
the spring of the meter (less fuel sprayed) and viceversa. Varying the position of the gear
means to have 9-12% richer/leaner mixture per notch. A very stiff springs is detrimental
for engine's performance cause its major effort to keep open the meter. Don't think that a
weak spring help you so much during acceleration. There are those two devices (fuel
pressure regulator (linked to manifold vaacum!) and TPS) to recognize acceleration, and
thus you don't need that sort of acceleration pump effect used on carbs. Moving the
notches have a linear effect all along the range of the meter (due to te fact the spring is
spiral shaped!), but with the added effect of vary the flap spring stiffness. Point D here you
can move only the position of the wiper on the carbon track for more or less fuel without
varying the stiffness of the meter's spring.
Here you cannot do much. Just you could bend the full load contact to achieve before or
later the 8-10% enrichment mentioned before. Anyway, if you're intended to set the meter
by yourself, keep in mind that results will never be so accurate as before, so emissions and
fuel consumptions could really play a big rule.... And in short, after messing with this
systems for a long time, now I own a DTA programmable engine management!!!
See: www.dtafast.co.uk
Cicco