T RAVELS

THROUGH
SXSTEDEN. FINLAWO, AND LAPLAND,
rOTHE
Tt|E YEAR^?]^^ AND 17^
isr mmPH A cm^
ilS. POITLTRY
; P R INTE0 '
1802.
9j T. GiUct},|SIiburjr Squari.

TO JJMES ACERBl
MY DEAR FATHER,
IN looking around me for a name
truly great to prefix to my work, my country offered
many, diflinguiflied for intelligence, for patriotifm,
and even for great achievements : but the feelings of
a fon prompted a different ^loice, and n ith emotions
of gratitude and affeiStiori for the bleffings of cxiftence,
education, and example, to you I dedicate the
firft fruits of your bounties. The name of a hero or
ftatefman might flatter my vanity, but yours affords
a more tender gratification. Your name has not been,
found in the annals of EuropeI congratulate you
updn it. A great name is dangerous. Your private
condition
iv DEDICATION.
condition prefents more genuine pleafures ; retired
on your cftate, you promote and cherifh the happincfs
of every heart around you ; and while you are
occupied in the advancement of agriculture, that
nobleft art, that trueft fource of national wealth and
beft contributor to human felicity, you enjoy the
contentment of a peaceful and virtuous life.
During my long abfence, memory, faithful to her firft
impreffions, has frequently recalled to me the pleafing
feenes of my youth ; and often, amidft the noife
of fplendid entertainments, and furrounded by a brilliant
crowd, I have heaA^d a figh, and found myfelf
a ftranger and alone ! Diftance lias fliarpened the recollection,
and my a.nxious withes have been involuntarily
turned to your happy retreat.
It is a truth confirmed by every days experience,
in individuals as well as in focieties, that they diminilh-.
their happiftefs in proportion to their departure from
nature. My diftant excurfions,- my long journeys, only
DEDICATION. V
ferve to ftrengthen ray defire of repofing under the
fiiade of your trees, and in the bofom of doraeftic
retirement.
Happy fhall I be Sir, if in put^ng thefe volumes into
your hands, T may in the fmallefi: degree contribute to
your amufement. I feek no other fuccefs, I atk no other
reward, but to convince you, that the time which I
have fpent in travelling has not been wholly loll: ; and,
that in changing climates and countries, I have never
fwervcd from the dutiful refpeA and tendernefs with
which I am, and lhall ever be.
Your very affedtionate Son,
JOSEPH ACERBI.
London^ Feh, I, 1802.

PREFACE,
*
JT may poflibly excite curiofity to know,jwhy a native of Italy,
a countty abounding in all the beauties of nature, and the
fined: produ^ions of art, Ihould voluntarily undergo the danger
and fatigue of vifiting the regions of the Ardic Circle.

He proq^fed to himfelf, and he was not dilappointed, much

gratification from contraftihg the wild grandeur and fimplicity
of the North, with the luxuriance, the fmiling aiped, and the refinements
of his own country. He was willing to exchange, for
a time, the beauties of both nature and art, for the novelty, the
fublimity, and the rude magnificence of the northern climates.
Nor was it probable that fuch a contrafied feene would prove
barren of inilruAion^ or be deditute of amufement. There is no
people fo far advanced in civilization, or fo highly cultivated, who
may not be able to deriv'c Ibmc advantage frotn being acquainted
with the arts and fciences of other nations, even of fuch as arc
the naoft barbarous. The human underftanding is benefited by
communication,
viii PREFACE.
communication, even with ignorance itfelf; juft as commerce
and wealth derive profit from an intercourfe with poverty. Every
fpecies of knowledge may be promoted by travelling into different
countries ; in all of them there will be found ample fcope for obfervation
and reflexion, natural, moral, and poliMcal. It is only
by a comprehenfive and unconfined furvey of nature, external
and interna], by a growing accumulation of fa<fts and conclufions,
compared and combined with one another, that the empire of
fcjence is to be extended : and the moft ftriking objcdls for fuch
a combination and comparifbn, will probably be thofe w'hich
prefent thcmfclves in a fudden tranfition from on% extreme to
the other ; fuch as from the South to the North of Europe,
It was not without the utmoft reludance, that the Author
yielded to the preffing folicitations of his friends to print this
work. It is the firft that he has offered to. the public, and he is
fenfible that it would be in vain to court for it the indulgence of
his readers, if he lliould fail of recommending himftlf by it to
their efteem. . ;
The firft part of thefc Travels, written for the gratifipatiop of
-
a fmall circle, who were curious to learn the preftut %te of arts,
8 fciences.
PRIiFACE. ix
iclences, and manners in Sweden, contains an account of circumftances
too bcdd, perhaps, to meet the public cyt. But to have
re'Compoled and ibftened it, by the lupprefiion of ibme particulars,
however perfonally prudent for the Author, would have been
to withholdllrom the reader a juft and accurate idea of the ftate
of fads. It was incumbent upon him to facrifiee all inferior
conliderations to a refpeft for the public and for trath. *
With regard to that portion of the volumes which relates to
Finland and Lapland, the Author was for fome time reftrained
from producing it to the Public, by a motive of delicacy. Colonel
Skioldebrand, a Swedifh officer, the companion of his travels,
had announced his delign of publifbing in Stockholm his
drawings of pifturelque icenery in ftiolh "countries, accompanied
with deferiptions of the objcfts reprefttited in bis plates. The
Author, thi^fafe> lu^ his own publicatioh from a fear of
injuiiti^ihe intbrdiiS^ friend. But, on obferviug that the
announced 1>vbrk'im only in numbers, that it
will not be completed for fome years, and wlat is moft material,
that any degree of fuccefi which i^ght attend the prefent publication,
muft only.ftrve top of the Qthcf, all fcroples
; -h.- ^Another
.s PREFACE.
Another motive for publilhing this book was, a defire of being
uleful to future travellers, whom ardent curiolity might impel to
vifit the northern diftrids. Thofe parts of Europe, which are, I
may fay, almoft abandoned by nature, are little kndwn, and any
information concerning them muft of courfe be acceptable.
Faihion, which extends its influence over every thing, appears,
in our day, to favour travels and expeditions to the North:
and the prcvdence of this may, perhaps, have been incrcafed by
the political troubles in the South of Europe. However this may
be, fuch as travel to thofe quarters are entitled to a degree of
regard and efleem which cannot juftly be claimed by thofe who
vifit the South of Europe; for the hardy North does not by any
means hold out the fame luxuries, the fame allurements of climate,
and the fame temptations to pleafure that are prefented by
a more genial and inviting foil. Journeys in the- North will be
undertaken by thofe only who have a Jufl; and mafculine tafte
for nature, under every alped, and are aduated by a defire of enlarging
their own information, and ofin^ding others.
With this the Author, having readied the North Cape
by a route before confidered as impradicable in {ummer, has publilhed
PRSTAGE. a
Uihed a delineation of that excurfion for the .affiftance of other
travellers who may come after him; . His accounts, whatever
may be their defers, will be allowed to poflels the merit of novelty.
Even the faults with -which' they may poifibly be charged,
will not be without Ibine advantage to others. His work, however
imperfed, may lerve to pave the' way for one more complete
and accurate. It is with travels,- as ,with every other purfuit:
men even of the moft ordinary talents have often, by their humble
efforts, pven birth to exertions ki others, which have been
more happily djredled, and more fnccefsful.
b2 .DIRECTIONS
DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER
FOR PLACING THE PLATES.
ydLi
Portrait of the Author - to face the Utle.
A winter fcene in Stockholm . . toicepage 42
Travelling on the ice over'the gulf of Bothnia to Finland > 1 83
Extraordinary mode of finging l^'Hhhuiders ... 22$
A Finlander attacking a bear . .
288
Perilous paflage on the ice - - * 235
Finlanders (hooting fquirrels * 280
A Fmlandifh bath . . . . . - 297
m VOL. n.
Map of the North of Sweden, Norway, Finland and Lapland,
jf. defcribing the route of Mr. Acerbis Travels to the North
Cape - - ' . ,. . . to face the Utle.
Two Lapland fifhermen - : > . . ... 24
A Laplanil family roaiUng fifh *"/
. 43
A mountain Laplander's tent#! - .
; 107
Strix Lapponica - . v-r '
' 227
Corvus Lapponicus - - i'-'..-' '. '.V' ''. 228
Inf^, Sirex Nlgricontis,' &c. - 253
Infefb, PapiUo EmiHa, &c. - ' - ;'; '
;
- iS3
Infers* Papilio Sophia, &c. .
voL 1. is to he/u^UfdfromJheet S vol. 2
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER. I.
#
Page
Partiality and Inaccuracy of Tra/veUers confidered-^Mode of Tra^
uelling in Sweden delineated^ and compared with that in other
CountriesJourney from Helfinghurg to GothenburgfParberg :
Anecdotes of General PecklingGothenburgPa Defcription of the
Town, its Population and Conmerce^The Inhabitants of Gothen*
burg, their Mamers and Cuftoms^ ~ 3

CHAPTER IL
Journey from Gothenburg to StockholmTrolhdtta: the Cataracts,
and the Ca?^, which is a moft extraordinary WorkSome general
Remarks occajtimed by this CanalBook of Infcriptions kept
at TrolhattaFace of the Country between Trolhatta and Stockholm
Agriculture in that Difiri^, and its Produce^Mode of
bedding the HoifesFithia, the Stage beforeyou come to Stockholm
: AnecdoteAtrhal 4t Stockholm : WantofIims---Character
of Mr* Mtttmgrein i his Attsfitim to Strangers. i f
CHAPXIV
. CONTENTS.
CHAPTER III.
Topographical Dcjcriplion of StockholmChange produced in its Ap^
pearance by the IceViolence ofthe (kid that prevails in Winter
Some Objuls mentioned wbicVare peculiar to the Winter Seajon
:
Water-Carts^ Sledgesj &c.A Sugar-Houfe on fire, and the
cutdous JBffkds of the Frofi^The Summer : Country Life
of the Nobility and Gesdry^ThAtW^effioris and Amufements
Paffton of the Swedes fbr Cardrand Oaming-^Eiivirons of Stockholm
Drottningholm : the Royal PalaceAnnual Tournament at
Drottmnghohn^The Royal^ Pari at StockholmRoyal Procejfion
undyear^ Pefiroal in the Park. ' 35
CHAPTER ly.
Tlu Mmths i^'May and J^/pe, Septetithef and OHoberi parfiatlarfy
difagreeahlt, oH Acccunt of the Weaiher^rrecmaiom againfi the
Severities of Winter^ Stoves, and Warm ClotUng-Amifements
of the Capital in ffinterPli^s, Operas, Concerts, Balk, and
AffembliesAn Aeeount of ihi Swedifi Ladies, their Beauty,
AccompUfhments and MahSteri^Womeri of another Defeription^
Chara&er ofa SwaiJhPetkMdltrS'^pirit of Societf0^Mffe
;
Dinner-partiesFornmlUy and of Swedifh Matmers^
Etiquette of the CourtCofiume of DirefsPr^te Suppers given
ly the King and Royal
and the PeSple, dad tl^ intttdal ^laMns'*^ 0^^
RefpeB-^Greai AjfenAUlRdt iUM*ch^e\ at>idm hodoirtdf^ '
v, P*tfSnee of the Bqfdl Fd0y^PlaiSs of
^'^i^/^&penets^A Chib catted ^Sotntiy. Vv .i. 57
GHAP^'
COfJfENT& XV
CHAPTER V. *
. i Page
CharaSer of Gufiavus IIL King of SwedenReflexions on true
Gloryi and the Virtues of a Patriot King-^Arts^iand Sciences
under GuflavuS^CharaXer of the Duke of Sudermania^ and his
ConduX during the Regency^Ammal Magnetifm encouraged at
StockJiolm^CharaXer of the frejent of
Religion i the Liberty of the Prefs?\ and State of the Arts and
Sciences in this Reign. ~ ~ 82
CHAPlMvif
Remarks on Academies or learned SocietiesTho/e eflahlijhed by
Lewis XIV. in France-^EfleX of Opinions and theoretical Prin*
ciples upon the Fate of Nations^Htm, far t^ public Opimn may
he direXed or influenced by learned aeietfes-^More of the Characjferiftics
of thefe Societies difplayedr^Academy of Belles-Lettres at
Stockholm-r'^Memhers of this Academy^The Swcdifli Academy^ or
the Eighteen ; its Proceedhigs, Prizes, &e.^Members of the
SwediJk Academy^Account offlme SwediJh Poets, among whom .
is mentioned Air* Torild^ an Admirer and Imitator of OJftan. 97
;C '''
j
.
Tiu Aeadimy (f-SfUtMi at Slttckhfilm-r-The Claes into which it is
Svidtt^rS^ e^marh on the and. dtrangemtHt of
the Sfiience^rmAhft that.ft^ai,^ m admi^ting^as M of Jd~
terar^hSocietietyeeifm mt froftf^ptai^dr^Al^oftAeMemhers
of the Academy of Seimes at ^ofhh^my..with CMtvafitmsvTj^ ^
i comems.
*
. Pag
on their IVrj^mgs and herary CharaSer-^Jl^enff of Sciences at
Upfula ; Rofal Society of Sciences and Belles-Lettres at Gothen*
burgh i Society at Lund ; and other Societies or Acadendes^^CoU
lection of Models and Machines at Stockhohur^Difpofition of the
Sivedes for the Arts and SciencesTheir National Character. Ill
CHAPTER VIIL
Inftitutiomfor the Purpofes of Education in Sweden : Parijk Schools^
Public Schools^ Gymnafia^ and UniverftiesAccount of the Univerfity
of LundThe Profejfors and Students : the Method of
teachings and the Things that are taught-^The Univerfity of Upfda
Seme Intelligence ofthe individual Character offeveral Profejfors
^The Unrverjity of Abo-^General liemaris on the Swedijh UniverJities^^
GuJtanjus IIJ. enters the Prince Royal at the Univerfity
of Upfala, 138
CHAPTER IX.
The animal Exhibition of PiRures at Stockhohn-^Academy of Paints
ing and SculptureAccount offame difimguijhtd Painters^ and
their ProduRions-r^Sotaolf^orh of the Di/cftanti 157
CHAPTER X.
Tribute of Prjtife to Mr CoxJfor his Acemtt^ Swiden^ and for
his Eagemefs hi colUOing Informatiofh^A Etmt ghen to Travellers
The general Iniprejfion tmde on the Authors Mind of the
, State of Sweden in refpedt to Arts and Scmces \ Commerce and
^^^tmfaRuresx and civil Ereedom^TheVfe of Sledges in Winter^ : ^ S and
,
CONTENTS. xvii
and theAdvantages derivedfrom UThe different Kinds ofSledges ;
and the Roads made through the^ SnowDeparturefrom Stockholm
; and Jourmy to GrijlehamnPaffage hy Haga and Ulriefdal
Defcription of the Gardens of Haga in WinterFace of the
Country between Vlriefdal and GrijlehamnFoxes inet with on
the RoadWant of Inns or Puhlie HoufesProvifions of the
Peafants that attend TravellersCharactery Manners, and domejlie
Condition of the Peafantry l6()
CHKVTEK XU
Gri/IehamnThe Paffage acrofs the Gulf to Finland dangerous in
Summer to navigate, and in Winterfrozeti overfo as to hear Sledges
The Authors Journey acrofs the IceDiffcultits attending it,
ami Adventures that happenedSeals or Sea-Calves living on and
under the IceManner of hunting themThe Ifies of Aland-
Some of them mentioned by Name : the Fortrefs of Cqftleholmen
Anecdotesfrom a Cotreerjation with a Peafant \ 82
CHAPTER XII.
An Account of the IJles ff AlandTheir Situation, Name, and Iliftory
PariJhes and civil RegulationsSoil and ProduceThe Inhabitants
: their Manners and CtiftomsNatural Ilijlory : Qtcadrupeds.
Birds, amphibiops Animals, Fijhes, Infe&s, Plants and
Minerak 194
V01..L ' c . . CHAJe:
xviii CONTENT&v;
CHAPTER Xril.
Arrival in Finland at the Town of Abo^Accomt of this City
The LibraryThe UniverftyAdmiral HedingFarther Particulars
of the Town of Abo ; its Situation, Streets, Buildings
The CathedralThe Building of the AtademyThe Harbour
The Inhabitants of Abo : their Trade and CommerceThe Cafile,
called Abo-hus ^
CHAPTER XIV.
Departure from AboHiffimiy of Travelling without a fufficient
Quantity of Snow^-^TraB of Country between Abo and Yerven*^
kyle^Conduion of ike Veafantry ; ihm Mode of Life, Dre/s, and
domeftic Conforts^Meet with an old MmfirelContrivance of
putting a Sledge on WheeJs^Defcription of an Aurora Borealis
Reach Yef^enkykAccount of this HamletCataract near Yer-.
venkyle : Appearance of it in WinterLittle Birds (Turdus Cinetus,
Lin.) near the CataraSs in WinterDexterity of the Pea*
fants in Shooting*^The Dwelling of a Peafanf deferibed, and re*
pre/enied by a Drawing ~ 2l6
9^
CHAPTER XV.
Departure from YervenkyhProgrefi through a large Foreft
Danger to be apprehendedfrom WolvesVefiiges- of a Conflagration
in the Wood^Frequetuy of thefe Corfkgratiom, and the
Cadfis ih^etf^Dfvaftatien oceajdmd dnrng^l^yhe Trees of the
Sfotihs-^Rodd through the Forffii its Jhfottvenieneies
Page
205
cb^NTS."

Piijfage over the Ice \ the Fears afid Alarms with which it is at^
iended^The generous Simplicity offme Pea/anfs who Jerved as
Guides
CHAPTER XVI.
The Journey continuedBrightnefs and Trdnjparency of the Ice^ and
the probahJe Reafon of it-^Stop at Sdlanpe^Arrivalat Wafa
Account of this Town : its Situation, Trade, and Inhabitants
The Tribunalfor the Government of the North of Finland, at
WafaThe Prejident and Governor-^Anecdotes of Linnaus 237
CHAPTER XVII.
Departure from WaJa^Ihcofryenmcies of the Journey over the Ice
Arrival at Gamla Carkby^Aceomt of tins TownProceed
on the Journey : new Difficulties ariftng from the Ice^^Accoiint of
BraheftadArrival at Uleaborg ~ , 24(5
CHAPTER XVIIL
Account of Uleaborg : Situation, Population, and Trade^Mineral
Springs near Uleaborg-^The Soil in the Neighbourhood of this
TowUy and its mineral ProduSionsThe Climate and Seafons-^
Vegetation and animal Creation 256
CHAPTER XIX.
Stay at Uleaborg protraSed longer than was intended: Reafons af
ftgnedfor it^fnierefting hAhid^h m Experiments
with Animal Mdgm^^ Regions on the extraordinary
c 2 Phenomena
xlt
Page
227
XX CONTENTS.
Phenomena produced hy i/Advantages attending a Refidence in
fniall Country TownsHofpitality at Uleaborg^Spirit of Society
at that placeSingular Mode of Jhewmg Regard and Friendfiip
for a Stranger 267
CHAPTER XX.
Stay at Uleaiorg continued-^ Cheapnejs of Lhing'-^Prejudices about
fome Articles of Eating^-^Bright NightsSport of Shooting
Chafe of the Tetrao UrogaUus^Muftcal Party^ and Concerts performed
by the Author and fome Fellow-travellersImpreJJion
made by the Power of Mufic upon the Smfibility of thofe that heard
itTurn of the Finlanders for Mufic and PoetryThe Runa^ an
ancient Piece of Mufic in that CountryThe Harpu, a mufical
InfirumentState of Mufic in Finland 277
CHAPTER XXI.
Influence of the Northern Climate upon the Manners and Habits of
the PeopleHardjhips ofLhmg in the Norths when compared to
the Southern CountriesOccttpations of the Finlanders in Winter
Their Methods of catching FijkThe Chafe of the BearMode
ofJhooting the Sqifil^relDangers that attend the Chafe of the
SealAn Infiance mentioned of two Finfanders that were caft
away upon the Ice while in this Purfuit 285
CHAPTER XXn.^^ ^
Some of the Mdkners and Cuftoms cf the Mabitatds tf
fcribedTheir Modes of CourtJhdp^(kremmes attm^
riage
CONTENTS/
riageThe ufe of Vapoury-Baths among the People at large^ and
efpedally among the PeafantrjSome Pariiculars of this Manner
of bathingThe extraordinary Tranjitionfrom Heat to Cold which
the Finlanders can endure
CHAPTER XXIII.
The national Poetry of Finland-^Runic FerfesTurn of the Finylanders
for Poetry-^Manner in which they recite their Poetical
Compofitions^^Specimens of Finnijh Poetry F'uneral Elegy on
the Death of a Broiher^An odd Taky called the PalJamo-PaJly
The Females particularly addiSed to the Armifement of Poetry
The Jauho Runoty or Mill Songs-^A beautiful Ode^ or Elegy^
by a Country Girly on the Abjence of hef Lover-^Lidlaby of the
Finnijh NurfesSongs intendedfor magical PurpofeSy andy among
other Virtues
y fuppofed alfo to pojfefs that of healing Woundsy and
.curing DifeafesThis Superjiitioh prompts the Clergy to difcourage
the Runic Poetry in whicipit is chd^Probability arifingfrom that
Circumflanccy and others^ of the Runic Poetry falling quite into
Difufe ~ ~ 300
CHAPTER XXIV. ^
Departurefrom Ifleaborg-^DifficuUy oftravelling to the North Cape^
through Laplandy in SummerPlan adopted ly the Author and his
Friends-^Preparations for the Journey: an AcceJJion of two Feh
low^travtUers-^AffeSing Farewell-^Journy purfuedDefcripyiion
ofa Ftnhndifi DmHe^Sme Specimens of Mufic^-^Amufement
at Hutta-^Arrhd at Kmi -r 324
, CHAE:
xxi
Page
sxU * CONTENTS,
CHAPTER XXV;
. . ... The Minijler of the Parijh of Kemi^Erhirons of this Town-^The
River near Keml: danger of navigating it-^The Churchy a magnificent
BuildingStriking Contrajl it makes with the miferahle
Huts around iiTValk from Kemi to a Jhorf Diftance to look at
fome Church Bells~Exferment tried hy the Author of a Finlandijh
Vapour-liath^Some Intelligence relative to Botany and
Entomology-^Departure from Kemiy and arrival at Tornea 333
CHAPTER XXVr.
Maupertuis^s Defeription of Tornea-^Account of this Towny hy the
AuthorThe ClimateView of the Sun at MidnightVrofpe^f
from the Church of Lower TorneaHarbour of Tornea^ State
of the Bothman Gulf in this VicinityTrade of the Town
Some Travellers mentioned that have vifited Torneainferiptions
preferved in the Church at Jukasjervi # ~ 342
CHAPTER XXVIL
Reftdence at Tornea--^ Some Individuals of this Place mentioned
A
new Addition to the travelling Party : Enumeration of the feientific
Perfons that now compofed itHepariurefrom TorneaSome .
iopographka} Rmarks on the Etruirons^Face of tlte Country between
Tornea and Upper TorneaDijferent Stages that are faffed
Salmon F^hityParticular Method of cauddng ihefe FiJ^Art
old Manfirvmg for a GuidoA Bathmg-place, after the Finiandifi
FaJkionHand-miUs for grinding CornA few Plants
men^ued^ .. ^ 353
CHAP,
CONTENTS; xxiii
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Stale of the Road from Tomea to Upper TorneaThe People that
inhabit this Tra(t of CountryOfver Tornea^ or Upper Tornea
Thefuperintendent Mirier of that PariJh^Hofpitality of the
Clergy, and their Attention to Travellers-^Vifit to Mount Ava^
faxa : the Account which Maupertuis has given of this Mountain,
very accurate^Remains of Signals upon the Mouniain^lnfe6ts ami
Plants found on, or near Mount Avafaxa, Flora Avafaxenfis-^
Meat kept Very long in the cold Seafon^Departure from Upper
Tornea : Lofs of one fellow Traveller wht returned home.
Page
302
CHAPTER XXIX.
The Travellers henceforth proceed by WaterStrong Currents of the
Rivers, occafoned by Catdra&s^Pafs by a Salmon Fijhery : man^
ner of eating Salmon raw--^Drfficulty of navigating thoje Rivers
Stages on this Joumey^-^ajs the Arctic Polar Circle, near the
Catnra^s of Kattila KojkiAJhort Pajfage by LandPella and
Mount Kittis remarkable for Maupertuiis AJlronomical Obfervaiions
Mr. Swamberg^s Remarks on the Labours of Maupertuis ;
from which it appears, that his Obfervations are not to be depended
onMethod of obtaining the Eggs of the Mergus Merganfor
From Kardis to Kengis-r^Arrival at Kengis, and Hofpitalityfhewn
by an Infpe^or of the MinesA Stone with very ancient Infcriptio72s
taken Notice of by MaupertuisPlants and Infe&s. 3 /
1
CHAP\
K1V CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXX.
Stay at KengisEniertammmi given hy the Inf^eBorThe Bear-
Dance^ a very fatiguingfort ofAmufementVifit fromfomeyoung
Women of the Neighbourhood ; among them one^ a Native of KoU
lare^ of afurprifing Degree of bodily StrengthSeparation of the
TravellersThe Author and another Gentleman alone proceed
NorthwardGeographical Noticesm the River Tornea.
Page
391
TRAVELS
T K A V E I* S
TUS.01VC.1C SWEDEN.

TRAVELS
THROUGH
SWEDEN.
CHAPTER I.
#
Partiality and Inaccura<y of Travellers confderedMode of Travelling
in Sweden delineated, and compared with that in other
CountriesJourneyfrom Hel/ingburg to GothenburgWarberg :
Anecdotes of General PecklingGothenburg : a Defcription of the
Town, its Population and CommerceTlu Inhabitants of Gotlunburg,
their Manners and Ctfioms.
T^ARTIALITY aod inacc,uracy are common objeAions made
^ to travellers, and often diminifh, or even annihilate, that approbation
which otherwile might be beRowed upon their labours
and exertions. The firft of thole charges is of a moral nature,
and relates to a failing of the heart ; the fccoi^d aims at a fault,
which cither proceeds from indolence or ignorance. But thclie
articles of accufation, when exhibited, are not always founded
upon truth : ^d, before a deciiive pinion can be given, the crcdi|:
of the perfon who accutes ihould he carefully balanced againft the
VoL. I. B2 c^arailcr
4 TRAVELS
charffifter of him that ftands ImpeciGhed. ^ofi^'who have 'tHHf
veiled in the North, or defcrtbed' that part of Europe^ haw beeiii
peculiariy unfortunate in 'being ocpofed to attacks of thU''ktnd
and having their candour and diligence cdted in queftion. The
accufation has, in genetal, been brought by natives, who, though
we may allow them to be well acquainted with their own eountiy,
cannot be iiippo^ to furpafs othors in -the virtue of itnpartiality.
Thcy^ are certainly as liable to be bia^d in &vour cd* what th^
call dieir own, as foreigners who-come to vifit them may be on
the oppofite lide. It is b^ no means eal^ to diveft ourfclves of all
prejudice and predfle^ba for thofo places where we were bom^
and where we fpent the earlieft and happieft days of our exiflence:
and this natural partiidity flioutd always be taken into the account,
when the -afoertaining of truth is our objed. We may
grant that a man poditiTes a perfeA knowledge ofthe local fituation,
the government, manners and other particulars of his country
:
but neverthelefs he may be prgudiced ; and while he labours under
this difodvantage, and is fwayed by thofo narrow ideas, which
are the almoll inevitable confoquenee of a Sfe entirely paded at
home, he cannot daim unlimited eohfidehce for his adertions.
Thus, when a Swede imiles at Mr. Coxe^s reprefonting Warmerland
as a moft delightfol country, beautid% interfperfed ahdi
varieg^ vrith lakes, charming vales and^eEiiultivated fields
wc think himjuftided in differing from that gentlemans defeription
; and admk that, the cbntiaiy, it is a Aearjr and ui^le^
fant diwrfified dnly Iqr
when
THROUGH SWEDEN. 5
when : he ceofu^ sn Engjhih, French,' er ltanan traveller for
affirming that thetC' is no fuch thing as -.cmventenC traveffi^^ in
Swed<^^ ; and on the other hand maintains,' tiret his country
abotmds in oomfotte; mrcry one thatihas the Icaft knowledge of
the iubje^, will immediately perceive the error and fallacy of fuch
a pofition. I
When a nadve of the North repreients that " you may travel as
ipeedify in RuiSa and Sweden, as in France or Enghuld ; and
that on the whole you meet with as good accommodation at
the inns in tbele cold regions as in any part of Italy, fo much
" rcforted toby ihangers; though I may entertain a great efteem
for that perfbn in other refpeds, yet I begin to fufpedt that he was
never in any one of thofc countries which he uiea for his comparifoUi
The only point on which Sweden will bear being men*
tioncd with England^ is the. roads. But there areno public ve*
hides, fuch as a llage<Coachj mail^ or mher carriage, for
the convenience of common travellers, who unite two prindpal
objcds in theirjourneys,^ via. expedition and cheapne^. There is
no regujlarconveyance between the country and the capital ; none,
for example, between Gothenburg and Stockholm ; Stoekholna
and GeRei Gede, and Upfala, or the other principal towns of the
provinces, . The rea^rn affigned hy the Swedes, that there is ne
need of ftagS'WaggPns end,<thc l^e^. br the tran^xrrtatton of
merchandize, as the countfy .is eye|y^where interfered by lakes
and navigable u npt a fufficient excufe' for the want of
gers. ' . /In France rmd ^g4
TRAV^'
chnader of him that ftands impeaefa^. Thofh who have iittrelied
in: the North, or deferibe# that jpart of Emope, hare beeii
pecidiaiiy unfortunate in being expofed to attacks of this' ki'nd^
and having their candour and diligence called in quclHon. TJhc
accufation has, in genehd, been brought by natives, wIkh though
we may allow them to be well acquaintedwith their own country,
cannot be iuppoled to forpais othdi in-tihe vutue of inapartiality.
Th^ are certainty as liable to be biafled' in i&vour of what th^
call thdbr own, as foreigners Whof-come to vifit them may be on
the oppofite dde. It is b^^no means eaty to dived ourlelves of all
pr^uce and predilcflion for thofo places where we were born,
and where we l^ent the earlied smd happieft days of our exidence:
and this natural partiality fliould always be taken into the account,
when the tafoerttuning of buth is our objed. We may
grant that a man poffedes a perfed knowledge ofthe local fituation,
the government, manners and other particulars of his country:
but nevertheled he may be prgudiced ; and while he labours under
this difadvantage, and is fwayed by thofo narrow ideas, which
are the almod inevitable confoquehee of a Kfo entirety paded at
home> he cannot daim unlimited confidence for his afiertions.
Thus, wh^ a Swede frailes at Mr. Coxe^s repirdenting Warmdland
as a mod ddightfol country, bcaaiifo% interf^rfed and
variegated with lakes, charming vales arid'WeKqultivatcd fields^
we think himjudified in differing from that gentlemans defoription;
and admit that, on the contrary, it is a diesaty and unpick
font trsft diverfified Unly Ity n^ed rocks "airsA
when
THROUGH SWEDEN. 5
when he cenfnres an n^iib French^ or ItaTian traveller for
affirming thatjhorO is an fuch thing as vconveaieat travelling in
Sweden, and on the other hand maintain8^\thin his country
abotmds in comforts; every one thatihas the leaft hnowlet^ of
the fubjedt will immediately perceive the error and fallacy of inch
a pofition. %
When a nadve of the North repreients that you may travel as
*Vipeedily in Ruffia and Sweden, as in France or Englatftl ; and
** that on the whole you meet with as good accommodation at
 the inns in thefe cold regions as in any part of Italy, ib much
reforted toby ftrangcrs;* though I may entertain a great eileem
for that perfon in other refpeSb, yet I be^n to fufpeft that he was
never in any one of ^ofe countriea which he ulb fat htscompa*
rifon. The only pointon which Sweden will bear being men*
tioned with England, is the roads. ; But there are no public vehicles,
fuch as a llage-coach, na^* SUgentx^ or ether carriage, for
the convenience of common travellers, who unite two principal
obje^ in theirjourneys, viz., expedition and cheapneis. There is
no regular conveyance between the country and the capital ; none,
for example, between Gothenburg and Stockholm ; Stockholm
and ; Gefle and Upfala, or the other principal towns of the
provinces, . The yeafonaffigned by. the Swedes, that there is no
need of %ge-vyaggpos Uke,^^ for the tren4ftati<m of
merchandize, as the coimtfy is eye^where interfered by lakes
and navigable 4ye|8, is not. a fofficiem acufo for the want of
public paUngers. -
^ In Frmicer and England'
6 TRAVIS
land (lage-coaches are found, in all dire^ions, ^ that you. naay
with eale travel to whatever quarter your inclination or .bufincft
calls you. Even whore there are navigable rivers and canals, the^-
carriages abound at every hour night and day. As to the comparifon
which the advocate of the North draws betweeq the inns
of Sweden and thole of Italy, I fhall not difeufs its truth or falfe>
hood, as I might be lurpet^bed of .partiality fpr the latter, which is
my native country. I (hall (ily obferve, that between Helfinburg
and Stockltohn, a di^nce of near four hundred miles/*^
nothing that cast be cbidSdered as an inn is to be met with ;
whereas there is'-no part of Italy where, in the fame Ipace, you
would not come to fifty towns, in neatnefs and elegance, and
every comfort of li&, equal if not iuperior even to the capital
of SwedenV that in Ittdy^ the South perhaps excepted, it is im-r
poffible to travel twenty miles without meeting with an inn, whilil;
there is not lb much as one to be found in Stockholm itfelf; that
a fmall village in Italy is better provided with all the necclTaries
and conveniencies of life, than the mofteminent provincial towns
of Sweden ; in Ihort, I Ihall anfwer the Swedifli author to whom
I allude in his own words : If any one wi& to travel through
Sweden with tolerable cafe, he will, do well to provide .hitplelf
** with a carriage, as weU as with bread end wipe, and other provi-
lions, which precautions are certatnly.(piitouaneceirary.in Italy.
f
Italian or tnglifli, which arc nearly the fame.
t fhe fame Swediih writer fays, ** that Don Quixoth miftaok all the inns
he jmetwhb:^'Opftle$, ia Swedli hewo^d bavs alt t^ houfes for
irnis.* TImqe is not any country however with which, I am acquainted, where
the houfes have lefs the appearance of ions than in Sweden.
THROUOft SWEDEN. 7
Fiiithery a country in which you' are obliged to lay a(id<i your
own carriage, and to fubftitute one whicb iaxfmailer and lefs
convenient, cannot be laid to be well adapted to the
;
purpofe of
travelling
:
yet this is the cafe in Sweden, where you muft be
prepared to encountet this and many other difagreeable circuniftances.
'^
The horfes are fmall and w^lr, and their deficiency in fize
and ftrength is to be made ap by increafe of number. This multiplication
is attended with a world of trouble. It is not in an
infiant that fo many horfes can be put to the carriage; the chance
is mcreafed that fomething or other will be wanting, Ibmcthing
wrong or out of order in the hameia; . there is alfouiiore difficulty
in bringing the horfes to <kaw and keep pace with each
other. All thefe impediments taken together^ occafion a confiderable
lofs of time. You are feopped at every turtr, and the expedition
of travelling in Sweden, compared with that of France
and England, is found to bea mere fable. Among the feven or
eight horfes that you are obliged to ufe, you have always to apprehend
that feme one may turn out reflive ; and the bad example
of one will fj^il all the refl. I travelled from Helfingburg
to Stockholm, by theway of Gothenburg, together with one of
my countrymen in a vmoife \ but inibad of three horfes, asin
Germany," we Were forced to inereafe our number, till it
amounted to feven. The horfes were put to the catriage four
a-breall; in the fifft line, and three in the feepnd. They were
fe little, fean, 8t)d feetde,;' feebied as if our vehicle were
,

. ; drawtir^*
15 TRAVELS
drawn by {o many flieep. The miorc wc increafed their number,
the flower was our progrefs on the journey. It was the month
of September, and the roads, which were always either up-hill
or down hill, began to be injured by the rains. In going down
hill, we were afraid of caufing death and deftrudiion among our
poor feeble animals, which were impelled, without power of reflftance,
by the weight of the carriage, and neither able to flop
nor to retard its motion : and when we went up hill, we often
were at a iland when it would hare been mofl defirable to go
forward. The horics, %s I have laid, did not draw together. We
were attended by five or fix peafants, who had each of them a
horfe in our caravan ; and deeming it good policy to whip up
their neighbours hor( while they fpared their own, they fell
often a quarrelling, and fometimes dealt about blows among
themfelves as well as among each other s horfes. Such a Babyloniih
confufton is not, I believe, to be met with in any other
part of the world. This at leaftI know, that T never encountered
any thing fo embarralfing in any other country. One may
travel -very comfortably in Sweden, they tell you, with the ud
of a man who knows how to manage and drive the hdries; but
where is the a perfon in the worlid capable of conducing thefe
animals ? They uhdeFftand only the Swedifli fiiunds ; and the dialed
in which they are addrefled by the pealants, is fo ori^nal,
and confi^s in fo extraordinary a morion or vibration of the lips,*
* Tpfehruv. Itis exutlybythe&mefouadthatthe toantry ptMrpte ht Scottaod
addcels their horfes when they want them to itop.
that
9 THROUQ^.$S^mthat
it is jbipoifible any foreign chaiioteer fliould be able to ac>
quire it in a fliorter fpace of time than ibyeral weeks, or perhaps
months. The fame found that is ufed in Italy to quicken the
horfes pace, is employed in Sweden for the pu)q)ofe of making
them halt : and it often happened that, when we were afeending
fbme ileep hill, we uttered that or a fimilar found, to encourage
the horfes ; when, to our great difappoiritmcnt, they flopped lliort
inflantancoufly. We then had to blame ourfelves fpr forgetting
the idiom of the Swedifh language, and patiently to endure the
conlequencc of our miflake ; while the peasants Iccmcd aflonillicd
at our ralhnels or folly in checking the exertion of the horfls on
the fide of a fleep mountain, where t^e weight of the carriage
might force the animals backwards, and involve us in great danger.
At the fame time, yyhen we reflefted on the unfortunate
power of habit and its effc^, in the prefent inflance, we could
not help laughing even in the midfl of peril.
Another fubjedl of commet^ation among the panegyrifts of
Swedilh traysjHng, bql^ equally unfounded with that of their
praifes of expeditioqji, is jijieapnc/s,. If they were to calculate
the cxpcnce of a courier, whom you mufl fend before you on the
road ^^ak hpries,^ greater numof
hqd^ I? Sweden than in one
in Germaqy, morcoyer the hire orq.driver from Copenhagen, and
the expences of his return home, beiides the compenfation to be
made to the peasants for waiting with their horfes for the arrival
of tlwfe di*lplbyef1''^ take all thefe things into the
VoL. I.
C t account^
Vo TRAVELS
$c^unt> they would find that tiavelling ia Sweden with ones
own equipage, not to mention the circumftance qfi extreme
inconvenience, is, on the ivbolei more expenfive than in apy
other country of Europe, except perhaps in England. The countries
in which I have fijund it eafiefi; to travel, tbs^Ms> where convenience
is moft happily united with cheapnefs, are Auilria and
Bohemia, partiicularly the latter. \.I: am not confcious of any tendency
to either ill-humour or prejudice : I only declare matters
of fa6l that have come under my own obfervation, and under
that of many other travellers. If ibme have travelled in Sweden
with greater advantages thaff mylelf, i can only fay that they
have been more fortunate : but I muft ftill maintain, that thofe
impediments which I have defcribed, .are extremely difagreeable,
and not to be met with in any other part of Europe.
Another comfort for traveOers, much boafted of by the natives,
and reprefented as p^liar only to their country, is, that at
every poft houie a regiiler is put jnto your hands, under the denomination
of a day-book, in which travellers fet down their
names, their Rate or condition of life, . whence they came, and
whither they are going s and if they have been iatisfied or qtherwife
with the poltilion, or mther the pea&nt. - But it is, in my
opinion, rather to be eonfidered as an inconyeniimce for jt is, in
fad, a mere formality, that occafions a wafte of time without remedying
any one of the evils thai may be j^rd<^ ani^ compluned
of, When a traveller lets out On ajouro^ through.Sweden,
under the erroneous notibh of its beihig a vtild ahd
cwmtiy,
THR0lJB|t^EN. ii
bountiy/ bawed under cverlaftihg |^^^ ice, without inns,
poft-horfes, or roads^ he may be iurprized to meet with many
public regulatibm and eilablilhments which he did not expc<fl
;
but when, on the other hand, he fudfers hiraielf to be impofed on
by the groundleis iuppofition of finding in that country fiich accommodations
as in France or England, he will be miferably .diA
appointed. It would not be very wide of the mark to fay, that
the truth-lies, as ufual, between the two extremes, but inclining
rather to the fide which is unfavourable.
In order to make the journey from Flelfingburg to Stockholm
more intercfiing, you fhould take the route of Gothenburg
and Trolhatta. Before you come to Gothenburg, you pafi
through Warberg, a fmall village with a fortrefs, fituated on the
edge of the lea. Here the Swedilh government confined the
famous General Peckllng,'fulpeded of being an accomplice in the
murder of Gullavus III. This man was of the party in oppofition
to the king in 1 y50| being at, that time in the pay of Ruifia.
In 1762, when he had become a penfioncr of France, he was
on the fide of the court. In 1772, when having the rank.of
colonel in the armyi he betrayed an intention to exdte his regimeiit
to ntotiny;: blit he . was arrefted at Enkoping, conducted to
Stockholm,A^^and'aRer. the deathrof Gufiavus, (hut up in the
A47Cpr4ii;g,tO tbe author of the Life ofCatharine II. and the Travels of Two
he was taken td Gnpfholtii, khd confined in the cahle, which ferved
fbriuiMy w a This however is atnifiakd. Tiiccaftic of
having neither roof nor cafements.
C 2 fbrtrcfi
13 TRAVEI^. . ,
fortrefs of Warberg. During bis con|nw?nt ,at this place, , to
he had not been conviftcd offny crime, tb?u^ fujfpedled, he
was in the full enjoyment of ,
all his \vealth and income ; and,
whether' from malignity, rage, or madncfs,^he one day formed
a relblutipn tp; execute ailratagem for railing a famine in the
little town pf Warberg, He gave^ orders early in the morning
for buying up all the. proviiions in the market>place, and bringing
them forthwith to iijm. It was a matter of iatisfadion and
plcafure to him, to think that all the inhabitants of the town
would be pinched with hunger, while he himlelf pofTelTed the utmoft
abundance ; and that in this manner, the beficgcrs being
reduced to famine by the belieged, the ufual operations of warfare
would be completely reycrlcd. This ad of extravagance was
not more afflicting to the .citizens of Warberg, than it was
acceptable to the officers and foldiers of the garrifon, and the prifoners
conhned bciidcs himfelf in the caille. This anecdote,
which is in perfect conformity with the character of Peckling,
who united with excellent talents a confiderable ffiare of excentricity,
though told by, every body at Warberg, I have not fecn in
any puUic prints, or books of tmycls. .Greneral Peckling had a
great reputation for eloquence and pol^ic^l acquitements, and
above all, for an intimate acqi^in|^ce .yfitK' the laws of his
country. By means of hU legal knowlejdgc, he always cfcaped
with fafety from the various law-fuits in which he ,wa* mvolved.
He was wonf toania& himi&|f with teazing and m^^S Sari^c^of
his judges, wlio were often confounded hy his fuhtleties .and legd.
^ ' ^ ; lophiftry.
raitduSif i^DEN. *3
fophiftry. I'hc ctfurt-iinaH^^^ by wBIiH he was tried in 1772,
after a coiifineirierit of more than four months at S^ckholm, was
held under the direction of General Horn, who had been created
a Count' after the revolution in 1772, more ifrom his zeal,
it is faid, 'thah bn account of any real Icrvicc. This nobleman,
being a near relation to Baron Peckling, fecracd to fear nothing
fo much as to be thought partial to his kinfman. As the charge
laid againft him was no Icfi than rebellion and high treafon, it
was very difficult to find a lawyer who would undertake his defence
; till, at laft, a young man, of theifhme of Blix, gencroufly
offered his fervlces. The court-martial being at a lofs how, on
any plaufible grounds, to find the General guilty, but yet not
daring to acquit him before they knew the intentions of the
King, who was then at Elkofund, at the distance of hear fifty
miles from the capital, they adjourned till they fhould receive
farther inftru<Slion. But as it was contrary to the privileges of the
Swedifh nobility, that any of their members fliould be kept in
prifon without being fully convicted of a crime, the Generals
counfcl afkcd the Court if they had any other rules for their proceedings
than the laiVs of their country ? They anfwercd they
had none/ - Tet Bardh Peckling was not fet at liberty, but in
.confoquehce otk petition to the King. So fudden and deplorable
was the effect produced by the revolution on the high-fpirited
nobility of Sviteden.
,
'Gotfaenbutg is'the i^hd cii^ ofthe kingdom. Its environs
are almioft every where naked, barren, and dreary. They prefent
V - art
14 ' TkAms
aa uniform fcene of fmall etninencM bf Black tbfclc, whbre nature
cannot b^r any power of art be forced to produce vegetation. The
harbour exhibits a fimilar Coiiraiibh bfroclcs hot nibre pleading to
the eye, and fomc little ctaggy iil5s of a tugged and forbidding
alped. As to the interior of the town, it lefombles in fome rc-
Ipeds the towns of Holland, having 'canals, with tows of trees
along their margins, regularly cut of clipped in the Dutch fafoioh.
The inhabitants of this place are in a Hate of conilnnt emulation
with thofo of the capital, in commerce as well as in their mode
of life, their faj^ions, tmd every fpecies of luxury. I have been
afliircd by foveral 'perfohs that one may live more agreeably at
Gothenburg than at Stockholm. To a Granger who delights in
fociety, it Certainly affords opportonitiies of following his incli*
nation tifrithoi|t formality of reilfamt. The ladles of Gothenburg
are celebrated for their amiable .difpohtions, their beauty,
their fociability, and their accotnplifhmen^. They employ much
of their time in the cultivation of languages arid the arts, particularly
that of mufic. They polTeis in a very high degree all
the qualifications that fbfm ah amiable;, accomjplifhed, and ihferefting
woman. The population of this tbwn is aboht fifteen
thoufand. The fuburbs arc fituated On fifing j^ound, and Ore
, occupied principally hy foafaring'people beloh^ifig to mefchfintmen,
the Eafb fodia Company, arid fevefiU fifips ofwar ftaCibhed
in the harbour. There |s an ho^itafafGothehbilr^^fouhde^
aBj, mdividual, Mr. Sahlgfen, tke^hual%^tkiOf^icS^^
to fifteen hundred rix dollars. It contains thirty beds, of vfhich
two
THRq:tjp,S\pDEN. 15
two arc; appropiriated for the delivery of pregnant \vomen : but
when QQcafiop r^uires, a greater number is albttcd for this be<
neyolent purport ibmetitnes as many as seven. Any woman,
whoeveir ihe jfnaylbe, when her time approaches, on ringing a bell
at any hour during day or night, is inftantly admitted and
without beipg al^cd any queltions. They alfo receive foundling
children, and at times mrintain no lefs than forty or fifty of them.
The commerce of Gothenburg is very confiderable, and comprehends
perhaps more than the leventh part of the exports, and
about a fourth of the imports of the whole kingdom. The Eafi:
India Grmpany, in which the dty of Antwerp and the town of
Oftend have a large Ibare, fimds from one to two or three Ihips
annually to China. Though their charter empowers them to
trade with India, it is but rarely, and to no confiderable extent,
that they avail themfelves of that privilege. The number of
trading yefiels belonging to Gothenburg is about two hundred and
fifty. About eight hundred foreign Ihips enter the harbour annually,
and about five hundred Swedilh. One of the prmcipal
finirces ofprofperity to Gothenbuig is the herring filhery. Six hundred
thoufand barrels of faltcd herrings have been known to be fold
in one yev,, and thirty thoufand barrels of oil. To one barrel of
oil there is reckoned a ppportiori of tenor twelve barrels of hcrmg9..
Every fuch barrel, contains from a thoufand to fourteen
hundred herring. The filing begins in 6<iober, and lalh till
^cbruaiy, and forpftij^ The herrings are partly confumed
i6 TRAVELS
fumed in the country itfclf, and partly exported to the Baltic and
the Mediterrviean.
When a perfbn is invited to dinner at Gothenburg, it is under-
Hood that he is to pals with his hoH the whole ofthe evening, and
to conclude a pretty conHant fcene ofeating and drinking by a plentiful
fupper. This is a pradice common throughout all Sweden,
Stockholm not excepted : but at the fame time it is to be obferved,
that it does not now prevail in the houfes of the firft order,
but is limited to thofe of the lecond and inferior ranks. I am
'itold
that the caie is vei^ much the fame in the principal towns
in England and Scotland, including the ,city and mercantile part
of London. It is the cuHom in Sweden, as in other protcflant
countries vyherc reU^ous zeal U rather fervent, for every one at
table to fay aihort prayer to himfelf, both before and after the
meal. When dinner is oyer, the guefb return thanks to the
mailer of the hpufe for his good cheer ; and he, on the other hand,
aflures his viiltors . that they are heartily welcome. All this is
dpne with fo ferious and fplemn an air, that a ilrangcr, if he did
not rccollciSl himfelf,; might be tempted to laugh at this extraordinary
ceremony. This manner, however, of, returning thanks
on the part of the gueils, and the aifurance of their being welcome
on that of the mailer of the . houfe, formerly appears to have
been common througbisut Great Britab^ for tiaces of it ilill remam
in the provinces among the lower claiTca of th?,people ;
whofc fafhicAis, cuilotns, and modes of life^ as well as 0|nions,
have
THROUGII SWEDEN. 17
have all of them, at fomc period or other, been thole alfo ot' the
higher ordersi'i^ &cicty. At great and formal dinners in Sweden,
it is ufual to Siriilc^hcalths out of large lilver cups filled with
rhenifh or champaign. The cup goes round, and every one taftes
of it, fimilar to the old cuftom of pledgmg^* ftill praftifed at
fomc Englilh corporation-feafts. There arc certain rules to be
obferved, with which the guefts arc prc^^oufly made acquainted.
If thefe be not duly attended to, the delinquent, by way of putt
ifliment, is obliged to drink off a whole cup.
It has been very generally remarked, aqd I believe juftly, that
the apothecaries of Gothenburg are not*^ Ib ignorant as the fame
clafs of men in Paris, Amfterdam, and ifiSny other great cities.
Men's prclumption and difregard to confequcnces being always
in proportion to the narrownefs of their education and undcrflanding
; we may juftly fear that dreadful havoc is made, by thefe
triers of experiments, among the blind and credulous multitude.
At Gothenburg the apothecaries have the advantage of a liberal
education ; fb that ifthe inhabitants have the fanac propenfity as
thofe of other places, to fly to thefe underlings pf the medical art
rather than to a phyfictan, they may indulge it at Icaft with Icfs
danger.
This cuftom is obvioufly derived ftom the fecurity found neceilary to be
given in Gothic ages, tliat an individual fhould not be ilabbed while he was
taking hiji draught.; ^
VolA. D CHAPTER
tt.
to Stitcikal^DrolhStia i tAe Caf^dSi,
ai^tfu Cdkal, liohich ita mofi*^tfaorittnar^ WorA^Somi ge^
Yat ^narh'oeiafiiiHed^h^^ (iamlBiilt of Infcnptions Jupt
at TrelHafta-^F^ of tlu Country between frolhStta and Stockhol^-
i^Jtj^Niultid^ iiSit& DifniS, 'and its Prodnee-^Mode of
hiddittg ike Hor^t-r-P^^d, i^Biiige bforeyou come to Stocl-
'hdtm : AOiidoii^Ja^ed^i^^ Want of hm-^Clta-
^T^HE journey 'ito a diiUh^
' " alx) lifty is bfteh maiie By tlie GothehBurgHers in
tB^ ^ayEiUht ofplini^re/ Goin^^ t6wn
llrobeed aI<Uig' lhe' banBa of tHc" river Gotlia, from which
CbjthaihU^ Ui Uiii^. Afit^ a^wang aBoiit ritreii miles,
jc/BL lieave BeBht i^hiBank^c^'tBe river,' ihe Ai^
fbrtrds bf Bohns, AtUated bU the fumMt'brW'rbe^^^^^
nainder of therbiM IB Ifro is'|aridpe(^liai'|^>^
places' billy
ecUi^^DifbiBly ibdjged : tBii is Eded^^ abdht
'
'tbybdiri^ 'ifm the ufibB'<3fiia. '-"If ilr
iifQt
THROJKSIfiSSpDENr
a ipot fa much frequented as Troihatta, Ixith by foreigners and
Swedes* thete ihould liot be better accommodations ; and that it
never occurred to any one, as a good fpeculation, to fet up a ne^
inn. In the one that nq:^ are but four apartments:
when thefe are occupied, there is no other houfe where a traveller
can be decently j^^lindgcd^ Tiplhatta is a, I^ace where the. adr
mirers pf natviral^beauti^, if ^ey ,could be tolerably accommo*
dated, wpuld be tempted to ftqp for feyeral days ; as it is fcarcely
pollibie in lefs time to h^ve any &tisfa^ry vipw of the famous
cataracts, and the canal, which; is one.qf the boldeft and
amazing works of thp kind ^n the world. The catara<9b are a
feries of cascades, formed by the river , Gptha, which ilHies fmm
the lake of Wennem, and, boing united hreaks,^ ^ls
in its whole and undivided dream fromV height of upwards of
iizty feet, into an unfai^or^hi^abyAeT^ . , ijr
The^cenal of .Trolhatt^ has .been wrought thtough the midfllof
rocks by the means of gunj)qyvder^. Its pbje^ was tqopen
munication,between the NorA ^a!^ the Whe of Wcnner^^by
continuing,the navigation where .the ^tha, dafhing down 1.^ ^ca^
tara^S;^eeafes to be.iiayi^fale.,, .-^^11 the li^'irbn 9f,^^dcia,;War*
n^erkmd, and other, prpyinees* ?utran^9tt?d .in Omdl boats aerpf^
the bdlie i9 far
anf.
D2 . attraifted
a TRAVELS
itfirafted the attention of the SwcdUb?govcmmcflt, and they eTOim^
nle fums, at di&Khttimes> daring almoR a ^hole
centuiy, for theejtecution of it^..notwithftanding> this vaft enterprize
proceeded ib {lowly and withib' 4ittle cfTeA, that it feemed
to mock every human effort of ftrength or ikill. Its actual accompiifhmerit
was teferved to teach a very important lefTon to
governments, and alt great bodies men, that though any undertaking
ihould langullh and fail under their direction, yet it may
be quickenedj and may fucceed, when it becomes the interefl of
individuals not to embezzle the general flock, when their fortune
depends on their entering minutely into all the details of labour
and expence, and on bringing the work as ipeedily aspoflibleto
a juft and happy conclufion. An. aflbciation was formed of
Gothen|>urg merchants and others, a joint flock was raifed, the
privilege of a toll on a future canal was granted and fecored by
government lhares in the eventual produce were fold at. higher
and higher prices as the-work advanced, and in the courfc of five
or fix^i^rs the canal was completed. The length of this canal,
on which there arc nine locks,> is nearly three miles; the width
thirty-ftx feet ; the depth in |bme places abovci fifty. Bafins: are
formed at convoiient diftances for various purpofes, which at is
unnecefTaiy to- enumerate. It is hot eafy for any one to form an
idea of the difficulties that were to be furmounted in tbe former
'tton of this' wonderftd tiknai, ualefs he had been an eye-'with'efs.
The ^eftatdr howodehn the fmooth level as if it had been ft>
always, and lofcs fight ^of tliB heights and rugged. TubfijinO^

;
through
THROUGH SWEDEN.
through which it was neceflatjr to penetrate, before that level could
be efTeAcd, I faw the canal iiot only when ijt was aceomplilhed,
but in its laborious progrels toward> completion. This canal,
which was Undertaken and bc^n by Charles XIL formed part^of
a grand plan meditated by Guftavus Vafo, and attempted by fome
of his riiccelTors, for joining the Baltic with the North Sea by
means of a communication cut through the kingdom. If ever
a canal Ihould be extended from the lake of Wennero, which is
the largeft in Sweden, being about five hundred miles long and
feventy-five broad, by Orebro tp the lake^of Hiclmar, the Swedes
may then, by a conjunction of Uiislakc with' that ofM^ar, through
the fiuices of Arboga, tranlport all kinds of merchandize in the
fame veflcl from Gothenburg to Stodk^olm. Thus a paflage
would be opened between the North Sea and the Baltict .and,
among other advantages, the duties of the Sound would be
avoided. The canal of Trolhiitta may jufily be confidered as
infome refpe^ls charafteriftical of the Swedilh nation; for it reprefents
them as they arc, prone, to the conception of grand enterprifes;
and diftinguilhcd by mechanical invention. As a work
of art, and of bold and perfovering defign, it is not too much to
lay,, that it ii-the-fidl in the world, even the Duke of Bridgewater's
tonal: in England, andthat of Languedoc in France, not
excepted;;^:?: :
Them is ntohing? that coaununicates to the mind a greater idea
of Hmrian ikill, than the ineans that have been difeovered for conveyin^'
things foom eae plae^'to another, ^be wateiy element,
i
:
.;^.
, apparently
it
apparen^tl^ de0me4 to cut otf
tries,, through the cxcrtioi* and jn^^e^tjr ofjow
a vaft and unbounded Wftdiuna ofthetr int^i^fe. , I dp ,not, recoiled
any .thing that fo i^ndble |nd..i^^ a.triuinph
of art over natoyc.\fe:^e^t^ perh^ tbe.ffceut.of the baljlGon into
the atmofplwre,: , though .
,tlji8 indeed is tp ranked aipong difcovcrics
r^her than inyenti<^s ; .apd has not,by any njeans given
birth to .fuch a variety of ingenkius .co^triype^ as have been difplayed
in the application of the polarity .of the rnagnet, and of lu^
nar obferyationsj,.i^ the^e;rtepfion of canals by the perforation of
hills, ; in the erection of btidge$i yyaterlocks, and flnices; and in
the conftrudi(Hi, equifiage, ^4 n^yigation of Ihips.
7he firft ideas, or th<| fird elenaents as it were, of navigation,
are prefented to naan in hi^ primirive, . rude, and fimple Ihte.
WidipHt enterings ipto .die quefri^^ 'whether roan is.pr was originally,^
iroaphihipiis arp^ as has been roaiiitidnf^ by one or
tvyo whiroiioat ,,writers, we find that the uncivilized tribes are the
. rood fwiroiners and vers. They liye^inueh in the water
and etn the water pi (}ped filhest in rivers, lake;;, Ikpd inlets of
^the fea, A farce or )og, >,$pp doin. tlie rnafgin of fproe wopd by
the violence bf *^,?<P^nt or a ntar tbern ^pn
the '?f ptc&nts itlidf a$. kind ,of .fa^ng place,
n^ere the exerrions of the lipibs and artna roay l^,fu|pended^ If
ti9e|.,o begins . beair a map .in diC;.' wate^ it occurs ,at ,oaee
.
tha|.{iey |ri]|rdfp^n|k.othot thing;. Th^ ,^0
ulcd,]^ thif pwppfe^^ ^^^T firft boats acco^ip|l^^^ M^e Ipd,
V from#
THROMfi Mrta)EN.
fioth tMte hift<Sy''6f by iron,
br,*|i>iWVkiMy 'ISS-tSl^fe of1rOn>' by this ojpO^tibiT of fire. As the
eleihefits bf nftVl^dn are fim}^^^^ sbd ob'tidus^ afid as this is an
art intitiiately ddniieeted with the purfiiits of men m all fiages of
^foOiety, both iii war and peace/fi> we find that the extenfion and
iitiprovemeht df tia^l^tion has at all times been a farourite obje^
with the greatefir princes arid the moll flourilhing and adventurous
republics. Thus vre know that Chartcmaghe formed a defign of
uniting by iricaans 0f a canal the Rhine and Danube; and Peter
the firlt of'ltuffia projedled a junAidn between the Don "and
Wolga, theiekecutibn of which was a ^vourite topic With Catharine
II. though file had not the godd fortune to fee itaccdmplllhed.
It is refisrved only for fiich a IhidcCfibr iu may equal that princefs
in extent of conception and Ipirit of enterprile.
.
The greater part cf^ftates and princes adl ifiollly from tranfient
mtcrCfis, wbiidi thii^ gimeml^ purfuh' With' cal^^^ intrigue,
varying their defignS add Ckp^iients according to rimCs and circumRances,
and therefore leldom producing a great efi^ In
proportion'arihey ardlof^ in their ambition and emnprehesifive
in their vie^i they dvearfodk prcicnt difitcuhiCs and pmfent advahti^
es, ini the bif peririahent pOwef arid %ture glory.
Thai %ie gteatea pe^le vvitli whom
wea#ahafia^uainted', bekig'elierifive irithm^p^^ Were Ready
lit a aque-
^bther 'ttrUeiures, Wcrc'ib
ttanfcendantly
tKAVEiiS^
twtifccndaiitly gwat, that wJl^ett.tbeyhiiltoMq^ a^^
wera loil in the dark' ages, 'afi'^:?dpl^toii<'{>fevailfed that they had
b^ea executed by fu|MnR^ural.4^ mvihble agents. The kings 6f
Sweden, canying back their wiews thrntigh a long line of anceftry
to a remote an^quil^,^ and forward' through j^ro^rtionaUe ipaces
of time, '.y^ero naturally infpired with, grahd recolledions and
grand dbligns. / Should an' age of darktie& again envelop Scandinavia^
and bring back the teign of ignorance and fuperftitiony the
worksrOf.'Trolbatta, like thofO Of'riie' Romans, would doubtleis be
afcribed to giants, fairi^tnr godS. :
At Trrolhitta- a fbdok is prefented to Ihangers yi'hen they are
about^o leave'the ^ace ; and are Ve^e^d to inlcribc their
names in it^ with Ibnie motto relaricve to the imprdfion nOade on
their minds by the ialls,< or other docal cireumflancest This book
is one 'Of the moft oiribus mifceUanies any where tb be feen, and
is in my mind 'of. more value than many other books, for the
light it throws On the iii^eA of httmon nature. Throughout the
whdpif:^1ooUedion thej^ reigns a particular humour ; I mean
a parricular turn or tempemriient of mind, and wbai the French
call penchant ; an a^^ridn ofwit and finj^larity, and above all,
ah< effort of iblf-love, or fdf'COnfeqhence, which unveils, not obfburely,
the' true charader add weakheft bfman.' Like thofe epitaphs
which lolc fight of the dead to fpeak of the living, almoft
all i|i|.iniQnptipds in well m in other ny^pr^ pf the
fame kind, are more charad^eriRic of their audi^ thkiii %f' the
fid^e^ to which they refer, Onb takes ah dppbrrimityWflieVv,
THROUGH S'^m)EN. *5
that he can make veries ; a fecond, gives Ibme account of his tra*
vels ; a third, exalts his own opinion on the ruin of that ofothers
;
a fourth, fets down his name merely for the purpoic of diiplaying
his title; while another, from a vanity of an oppofite nature,
writes hb name limply and nothing more. There is one Eingliih*
man who tells you, that he went to lee the cataraAs by candle*
light : another traveller of the fame nation fays, that neither the
catarad nor the labour by which the canal was accomplilhed, is
good for anything; that the Swedes are all Haves, crouching
under the lalh of their mailers ; and, in oader to exprels his contempt,
fublcribes thefe remarks,by a very indecent name. A bird
Englilhman, more enlightened as well as candid, rgoices to fee
gunpowder applied to better purpofes than thole of war, though
at the fame time he is not of opinion that the condition of the
people is bettered by commerce.* The French emigrants recount
all their own misfortunes, and as well fuited to the lulled
ofTrolh'itta, thofe allb of the .King of France. One emigrant
produces a long invedive agatnft the. patriots. An Englilliihan
writes nothing more than ** What will you have us fay ? The
following, Dieu benilTe cette bonne et brave nation If is ligned
Kofeiufeo. An immenfe number of pedants make flourilhes of
Latin, Greek, Hebrew, Syriac and Arabic. In a word, the writers
* The woi'ds of this EngUflimait are** It is piealiog to fee gunpowder ufed in
favour of fociety, although we do not think that conoinierce will improve the
** happinefs of the people.
t God blefs this good and brave nation.
^Vol-L E : of
2% ^kAvEis
of infcrlptipns at Trblhatta, beconie fomctitnes fo digreffive from
their fubjed, that travellers arc found mutually reviling, and
making pcrfbnal allufions to one another. At laft the poor book
itfelf was rudely attacked by the malignity of certain fplcnetic
perfons, who were not fatlshcd with making many peevilh comments,
but e^'en went the length of mutilating it, by tearing out
fome of its leaves. On my return through that place in 1800,
the inlcription I had left in 1 799 was not to be found. The
reafbn why it had been implicated in the fame fate with others,
and torn out, I am wholly at a lofs to imagine. I do not recoiled
the very words, but I am certain that there was nothing
in the fentiments that could be juft matter of offence to any
body. What I faid was to this effed: that the catarads and
works at Trolhatta were objeds which abundantly compenfated
to two Italian travellers the want of any thing curious in the
fbuthem parts of Sweden, and which could make them forget
the beauties of their native country. I replaced my infeription
wiitk the addition of the following beautiful lines by the Abbe
Delille :

Que ne peut pobt dc Iart Tadivit^ ftconde I

Ceft par elle que Ihomme eft fouverain du monde,
De la nature en vain tu crois naltre b rd,
Mortd ! &U8 le travail lien nexifte pour toi.
Ce globe h*dt foumis I ta vafte puiffance
,
.'j . . .V .
.,

Qu i titre des conquds, et nbn pas dAniiftance,

t
THROUGHSWEDEN. . 27
t tu nes dUUngu^ parous les ^imau?c
' Quc par ton nobk or|uqlt ton g^nle, et tes niaux.*
Leaving Trolhatta, we proceeded to Stockholm by Weflcrland,
Nerlcia, Sudermanla, and the government of Stockholm.
Though the country in the near vicinity of Gotlienburg be bleak
and barren, it improves greatly as you recede from that town and
the fca coaft, and advance north>eaft towards the capital. Woods,
water, rocks, hills tufted with trees, vales and cultivated fields,
gi\x it not a very rich but a pleafing afped. The woods, which
become fine and thick on each fide of the road, arc Ibmetimcs
fo extenfive as to ftretch out their limits beyond the eye of the
traveller. They confiil chiefly of oak, birch, mountain-afh, and
firs ; all of them tall but flender, which perhaps is owing to the
fcanty foil in vvhich they grow. The cattle arc finall, and their
fleeces hang down like the hair of goats. The horfes I have
already deferibed. But I ought to add, that when tolerably well
fed, they are very adive.
On the fubjed of horlcs I muft farther oblcrvc, that when we
came to Stromfliolm, a fmall palace belonging to the King, on
the lake of Mal, we went to fee the royal Rabies that were
What maf not be perfonned by the fertility of art? It is by her means- that
man has become lord of the world. It is a vain thing to fancy that he derives
this title of fovereignty from natureMortal ! .there is nothing thine, that does
not becotne fo through. labour, This globe is not fubjected to the vail extent of
tliy power by binh'pght, but by that of conqucilthou art only diftinguilhed
from other animalii% a noble pride, by thy genius, and by thy miferies
!
E 2 ; highly
^ghly fpo^en pf, though .thej^v:i^Oi^:;jl)ja ^i^OQCdi^
middling, or rather tneauj* qthcr ooatitn!^ , I was furprized
^0 find thajt, t^rcj^jl^P jiira^iir or other biddtfig for ^(b
horfes. The aninaaJi jflt^d % lie oja . pcrfQr^JS^cboardsi like fol*
diets in bafrwks. ^^T|ia pr^ipc lTpuja^ tp he univerial thiroi^hout
all Scandlinayi^^ I|; .oeei;itre4^tp<nie that it might have bad its
ori^n m the oeconptny of fayipgiibaw for, the eatUe io a counwhew
winter provender i^ much wanted : and, perhaps,
this may. he really the cafe; though even in Denmark^ where
feraw arid other provender j0.abundant, the fame pradice: kibllowed.
It has bcM approved by the yeterinary Cdleges c^ both
Stockholm and , Copenhagen^ and . univerfally adopted by the
roy^ and other great fa{ti|Uies, on aqcount of its falutary efifed
on fhe foot of the horfer Ip. countrij^. where the horfes-- feand
in a hot-bed produced by their own litter, their.feet-beeome tender
and fufaje^ to divers diferders ; but you very feldom ice a
lame or feundered horfe in^Sweden or Denmark; which^ if it is not
to be afcribed to the fkill, of .the licepfed firrriers, Who arc (at
leafe in the Danifh dominipna) ^ brought up : ip the Veterinary
College, may, tei a pertain ,degree,< he owing to the manner
keeping Ac hprfei on h<w4s ini^ead In^m^
feare r hut if anyf feijUUitutlr could be
A the Adding of hcailii, Aeif^fSion it WwM
*!nB of hay jand nw^ihe f^great.^ It
The
THROUC^ sfejEN^ ^
The Danilh and S^edifh fiodging the fainr^s ha?, I
have been informed, ib far attradfed the notice of his Royal
Highnefs the Duke of York, who keeps a fbady eye on whatever
may contribute to the improvement of the army, that he has given
orders for the 'erection of fbme barracks on that plan, by way of
exp^iment. ' The refult wilt be of'^eat importance, if this bed
ding on boards, if I may fay fo,%a}I be found to preferve the foot
of the horfe, even though its expenfivenefs fhbuld prevent its general
adoption.
The grain in the country front'Gothenbflrgh to Stockholm, and
I was informed throughout almbft all Sweden, is 'rye, oats> peasi
beans, and fbme barley. There is fbme wheat in Scaiiia, and alfb
in the environs of Upfala. This place was the refidence of Odin,
and ancient capital of Seandinank'; atid itt its vicitiity there are
many tracM Of cultivation, arid remains of former fplendour. In
Sweden the Rate of agriculture is greatly behind that of moft
other countries ; the ridges' are neither levelled nor evened, nor
regtdarly divided. The foil iS railed very confiderably iii the
middle, while both tides are more and more deprived of it, fo that
the edges are almoti; bare rock. Their winding form at both
ends prevents tbe plaflage nf the waters, to drain off which in tiich
a climate^ flxmld be one of tiie' principal objects. The frefh
grtnind to bc'employed in {^icnitnre is cleared of wood by fire,
which f^ri^ds tiimetim^ too and ^1^ arourid the cultivated
fpot a wide and^ittitO^itahAo ^mdtei iniimi^ to vegetation. The
deftru^lonof the hd^bubted^ the caufe^hy certain dititriAs
0 tiAViXS
tri& 'do now produce the finjc g^in,' dr iJuMtity* of grain, as
formerly.'' I'races of furrows, nOw'OVOrgrown with heath or mofs,
arc everywhere found'on moors anS the brow of hills, in Scotland,
Wales, and! the North of Ertglaiid; and alfo in Sweden,
Norway, and even in Iceland. It ap^ared rehiarkable that the
wildcft ^ts thrOiigh which we pafled in our way from Hellingburg
to Gothenburg, and from' thence to the capital, were not
Mvered with heath, but mofs, or a coarfc kind of grafi commonly
called The fliocks of corn and What hay there is in
Sweden arC all placed tin wooden frames, railed leveral feet above
the ground. Thc 'lhcaves of com fet up to dry in the fields arc
not placed in two parallel rows, inclining towards and meeting
each other at the top, with two Cap or hooding-fheaves, but in
a circular form, and coveted with one hooding-lheaf expanded at
the end, for warding off the rain.
The Ihepherds in Sw*cden, as well as in Iceland, have horns
made of birch-Wood. 'two excavated pieces of birch-wood are
clapped clofc together, and bound tightly round With the bark of
the lame tree ; fb that one circular pipe is formed. The found
made with this horn is Ihrill and woodland, but not unpleafant.
The fheep and cattle Wilf come together at certain places .and
times, obedient toi this call. It ie In the ftme mantier that the
cattle arc collefted by the herdfmen of thie Alps. What I law
of the fouth of Sweden affords certainly nothing very ftrikihg "to
the"eye, yet as the country is altogether igreeably varied, and in
other rci^fls offets' inuCh hovdty of obfervatibn, it riiidres' ah ih-
terefting
. THRQXJGH S^DEn! 31
tercftlng route for a traveller. The paradile of all Sweden is Scania,
where many of the nobility and people of fortune fix their
refidence in fummer. You meet there with fine avenues of trees
and other improvements of art But as it is not my intention to
deferibe the fbuthern provinces, I ihall proceed no farther in my
account, nor do 1 mean to enter into a detail of the different
towns in this part of my journey. Lidkoping, Maricftadt, Orebro,
and Arboga, might pafs for fourth rate towns in France or Italy.
The laft flage, or poft-houlc, called Fithia, is remarkable for nothing
lb much as its double meaning in.the Swedilh language,
when it is pronounced by Grangers. , 1 was told by different persons
that this ambiguity frequently lerved as a fubjedl of great
amufement to Gullavus 111. who would fometimes at his table,
in a very audible voice, afk any ftranger that might happen to be
prefent, the quefiion, how he lik6d the laft poft-houfe he had
paffed in coming to Stockholni, viz. Fithia. The ftranger, ignorant
of the equivocation, perhaps faid that he liked the houle very well
;
or that he thought it but a contemptible little place. On which
the king would, with little regard to delicacy, fall a laughing,
and, looking fignificantly at the ladies, obferve, that Mr. Sucha-
one was in the right ; that Fithia was indeed but a paltry little
place. This anecdote is introduced here, fplely for the purpofe of
warning ftrangers againft mentioning this poft-houfe in the company
of Swedilh ladii^. ,
We arrived at ^Sfocli^olm on the iQth of September, 1799. at
nine oclock at night. As we had not ufed the precaution of previoufly
TRAVELS
v^^iQu% writing to order h>dgings^ nitrmfied,
becaufe th^ are no inns at Stopltholro, as in other towns.. There
was injdced one fet. up by a iFren^nuiii ; but having made a fortune
in aJ&w years, this .hoan retired'^^m buhneis, and left his
houfc to a Swede, who knew not how to mana^ it. When we
-arrived at this inn, all the apartmmts were occupied ; and we
ihould have been utterly, at a lofi bow . to .pais the night, if we
]||d not been {o fortunate as to meet at the door Mr. Malmgrcin,
the raoft amiable and obliging man in all Sweden. There is not
a traveller that has eyer been at Stockholm, but will fee with
pleafiire in theie pages the name of that gentleman, and perhaps
xecolleS, upon this occalton, ibme ai^ of kindnefs ihewn to him-
.felf by that truly benevolent .and eftimafak perion. Mr. Malmgrem,
who has but little to do or care for .places his happinefs in
afb of- complai&nce and goodPeis to others, and paedcularly in
ihewing attention and kindnefs to ilrangers. He is always in
imetion, and always in an equal good humoun I believe he was
inever known, to be ruffled or difeompofed by %lecn or anger.. He
is the friend of evei^ onc in Stockholm, iiom the greateft lord to
the htunbleft burgefs, and equally reipeded, bdoyed and carcfled
by all. Every body is happy to gratify any wi(h of Rfe, Maltha
greins, a circumftance which he rarely turned to bis tram account,
though he never milTed an opportunity'^(ji'tii>x^lftw^^e benefit
of others. Heis the inventor ofa gnme-at' cacds'^tn great v^ue
at Stpckbpimv He has his eye~ on every thiagtiiat pafies;; he is
the great mafter of ceremonies on all acesfions; aud ^herevet
THROOO^eP'tiBEN. 33
harmony and good
order. To-ldi^-hidies^^^ hoihiewa tholt^e att^totis in hU power,
and af^ieanitti^er^ready and eager to obhgci th^t^ It tn^ furprire
diOH6ur,F4ho(^'tbis man#^who poffeiTes the advantage of a fine
peri^, ;fhQu}d; ht'.;fo active and confiant in their ferviee from
mp^ves of the^pmreft- andrmoft diiinterefted nature : in Ihort, this
tnan ftands.Iit^^ ip his kind; he has no enemies, becaufe he has
no amlntion ; he has no care^ becatiie he has no intereft to pur
fim : he has no rfiattererS^^ becau^; Im has-no fiivourite weaknels
;
.he never exporienoa suiy aggrefiions^ bei^^uiehe pofleiTcs in his
integrity Ihield for ^elr rcpulGon. Such was the firft perfon
we met with at Stockholm, when we were leekiag for fome
place to pa6 the iiightin/that we might not be obliged to remain
in the carriage till fhommg. > it will not a^ear lurprizing, after
the charaderiime given of MrtiMalmgrein, that in the fpace of
half an hour he provided us with lodgings^ a coach^oufo for our
carriage, a valet de plMe^and font to our apiutments an excellent
fuppm.^ Oad^ veiy fomeevening he would needs fhew us
the ci4yi< v^A|i'e Atem lOqki^^^^^ for tod^ngs, he pointed out
*0^ the Princclis-Palace, the Opera-*
Uoiyh;;; ahd^tHe|!lbrth']dridge, atthe fame <time giving k partieular
aeoennt* ^H^-*he greatefor|^idi^^ df'' ihe foms empbycd m
partipulani t when they
lK<^hgu% Mid*by-: vidimmM|p^,?tlfoy ; w<ere mm
tfaai^ela:^|tfaek ^y w^ finifhrd,
jStt firillfotA him|i^^ when I perceived
-V.
F
^ . that
that be mu faiuted in a very ^Ukir bjr^^itdenuin
that paffed us in the Direct, and that the peep{ei.wlirever we
went to enquire for lodgings, uifweiKd hn queDibns wbb the
greatcD refpeD, and app^t^ntj^meD and defire to oblige him
I did not wellJeniow what to tliihh oftop Diead; la the morning
we ^re a,^hcned <rl^ by a bimd of militaiy muDc, that did us
the.h$n^u^ of the place,at, the door of our bedchamber.' i Having
ttgr^^.y^n^ioTi to Deep than to hear their performah^, we
racve.'ldKm feme m-dohars, and wUhed them a good-morrow
:
,but we were deceived m our calculations ; as they, found it worth
jdieirjvhile^ they caipe agaijn twp days after to wilh usf good bye.
^utvassWe did nqt like a continu^qn of this praiftice, we iiuftered
.them to 4^^ without ti^^ hirther notice of their civility.
Hi^;day,,yrhen we went to prefent fome cd' Our letteis of introduftion,
we were aftoniflied to find that all the 'g^tlemen to
whom they were addrefled were already apprized of duir vifit.
Th^ were acquiunted with the^time of our arrival, and with
what h^peUed to us fince ; t^ey knew in what Ibrt of (rne^^
vm hM we had twen, where we lodged, who was
our lackiiw, whm Was our ^dr^ &c. i^efe circumDimees
did not improfi with tiiNe^ c>f
and we amidpated thoih..mcouvm^ whiim mh ufuaHy et-
^l^r^npod in a ]ai|^ Ci^ttah but withoift the
THR0MttSfeEN.
CHAPTER III.
T00gra/>h}f0LP^r/0on oj' Stockholm^C/iange produced in tu Ap-'
pe(p',aHCf Icefaience ^Jftc CoJd that prevails in Winter
Qbje^s metitmed whtch aripeculiar to the Winter Seajbni
, Sledges, SSc^A Sugar-Houfe on Fire, iMihe cu.^
rtm Bffe^sof ihtFr^^The Seafon of Summer: Country Life
ef.the Nobility and Gentry~Umr Dherjlom and: AiAnfemms^
P^sff pj tl^ Swedes^or Cards Gaming^Envirent of Stoct^
J^lm-^Drottfungholm : the Fi^dJ Falac^AmtUtl'Toitrnmetit
. at Drett^ingholm-The &ppal Pi^i at StM^lm-F6yal Procession^
andyear^l^ivedintheParh.
'
1 = ( :, . .7*' ji'/ .'.'.'.../j
- J '.'V,', ' * ;
vr;'L . , .
" /
TN order |tp fqrm an idea of romantic pbution of Stockholm,
mil to a over the accompanying map.
more than
the one ^ which 1 ani fi>eakiag, whether it he rohSdered in a
cpmmecciai point of view, or with ^gard to the vahety of Icei
xiery thiipreimts iti^f to tho The latter is particulaiiy eh-
. . . k Which* the
eify is every whens i^eht#^ anti enc^pafl^ * Tmm a w^ht hi
ftopoe^ical knowledge, ISrrcAirai*l^^ih^^^r io ^fie
properly fb called^
Ti^yEt^
. At >
is J)ullt on an ifland. Butj|hp
what is called Stockholm U j|tu%tcd, not on Qn|||;=j|jfJ ?e<^;.r
eight iflands, of which foi^ jure furrou^ded by
the lake Malar, and iome by thc'faU water of the fea. The city,
ptoperly fb called^ {cmd$ on an illand in the midft of the whole
:
to thc w^ it is walhcd b^ frefh, and to the eai^ by <ajlt ,y^ater,
heini^^aMa at the junt^ion oif the lake Malar with the Baltic Sea.
,'Pl!qaj[^gate oC/the iAes ofiStoc^ is as follows: l. Stad^nhblmen;;
or 'City^liQand': 'iS.Eiddarholmen, or the Knights! Idand,
in which is ^c Tpwh |lonre and in? front of this a ftatue of
Gnfiavus V'aiaX 3. Het^landlholnaen, br the ille of the Holy
CdlbiH. 'it wks here,' in. : the tin>e,;0)r Magons .La^l^aus, thatan
important aft was paCed 'by* the diet; or parliatbent, in the year
1282; for ahnexih^ mah^ large dpimains to the,.crown. 4. SkippiAolmen,
or the ifle of Ships, Called in' the nlap Admiralfiateshblihehr
Here are barracks and magazines for Ae dpti.^^^ With
this* the little idan4 of Caflelholroen is connefted by a dnall bridge.
5ii Blasiibolmeh, or the* ifle of SUfitis : this, however, cannot be
l|nftly called an i||and .b!ecanie.i5W 0^^ flde tbe chaimel has been'
filled op by* the fotmatiorf^Abl |a|d<nisii dtthat it now,
S5r._ * ^ tpl the ;cbntuient. .
,lt is hnin jl^t?;ftie fitftipn. of the Hat%'
which was in fiWour of kinj| AlhreiAit;
Il'Was t|it
* Swolm^
THROUGH i'WEDEN. 37
Swdkn fell under the fway of the renowned Semiramis of the
North, Matgartt of Norway.* 0. Ladugr4dflandet, or the land
of Fairms, which was formerly, but is no longer, an ifland.
y. Kohungaholmen, or King's Ifland. 8. Longholmen, or Long
Ifland. ;
There is a ^at varie^ of ftations in this infulated and penin-
* 19. 1365, Magnus, king ofSwedm, iiad (omcA thedei^ii ot aboliihing the
fenatct and humbling the pretenfions p the SwediOi nobles and prelates, v^ho
were in fed fo'many petty fovcrcignsa But fo bold a fcheme it was not in tlie
power of Magnus to accompliih, though fupported Sy an alliance with Denmark.
The Swedifh arms, in the caufe of lihertyyj^ve always been invincible* Magnus,
with his bated adherents, after a feiies of bloody battles, was driven out of the kingdom,
and his nephew, Albert of Mecklenburg, was proclaimed king of Sweden in
his head. Albert, jnftead of profiting by the difafters of his predecefTor, followed his
example, and (hared his fate. He began his reign with taking polTehion of all the
cattles and ttrong holds of the principal nobility, and re- united to the royal domains
more than a third of the fiefs tlrat had for a long time been in the hands
of the gentlemen, or inferior nobility, and the clergy. In order farther lo profecute
his plans, he introduced into ail parts of the kingdom military corps of
foreigners i and for their maintenance levied heavy contributions, and feized,
without fcruple or ceremony, ^he property of rich individuals, whether of laymen
or of the clergy. iPhe Swedilh i^bles, fired with indignation and refentinenf^
declared to the .lUng> that they no Joiner owtied him for their fovereign, and
ottered the crpwp and feeptre tQ queen of Norway. The ambitious
Maigarei did lidt hefitsife to ^1^ fo Inviting an opportunity for annesung
Sweden to her dominions. She raiMaA artnyV and at its head rhairched againil
Albert. This prince a woman, Stnufed
himfelf with varibusrailleries at the e^^ the queen. Anpng otherjohes
hie. fenkher a laigc tffe ItiiHile^urpofc of Iharpenii^
her feil|ars ai^ 06arfe^^^^^
we iiinb edmmon to all ru^ The ^feat pf^ an end
^ Ifewriii^ l^fbre life qiiecn, anci byher thrown
ii^i from! n!i'clisjt&
an^ pretei&as to the Crown of Sweden.
filiated
3 -r .
iulsttei capita!, froni which fott itiii
^iiaif ti^uti^. ^te^ple^rheiiili^ %^^^ 0)
caftle, which rears its Bekd whtd^ tb the eye f
liioft intetefting pidUre. " lE^ . th#'p^ti^^
finking thah ail1^i6 dtheh,dhd whi^e^^
and lool artiilahd: himv & the iPn'rt^r^' towards
the 6ify, you have 'in front a 'vtoW offt# Whole extent^ atid of the
for^rt oif the 'cafilib^ which fiahds'^ a hill. This is
a Work yf iupcrh arChiC6c^rd,^fihipte ihd|ed,'but noUe and ma^
jefiic i not incumbered With ^ that load* Of ufilefs ornaments,
which greatly ifiifi^red the cafile Or padace of Copenhagen, asniay
fiill be feeti fibm the thihs that were left by the%e> which
has hearty defitc^ed that ihagnifidetfi firactliire. Thence, on the
light', your eye fakes a wide rhnge'l and pjerceives; among othdr
ohjeds, a number of hills adorbed with hohfes or with - fir>trees,
and refts with delight On a finall iflahd, embellilhed with a- jpaviliori
or fummclr hohfe, which 'is rtHeCted by the limpid furfkce
of' the water, and ckhihibi a'thbft plea^g a{y|>OBraifce;: Ncaf ftO'
this buildfiigj Oti the Wght~ hihtd, ^ttidis the - heautifid %0afe?' Of
the Coiuht de whdifiii '^fifiic^ifliedi^^^b^ tht;
naihe 6( ite ^oiAeiy^'''% pin^f^iEtls^dt^ diveidifiSS,wird nchi'lefi
iextlnfive^ b 'op^ed towlhdS the *li^^^dbtnptei^Bdiia^ fome
dhtdhol Ihii Ifie oTB^^ Wh^hcottthhilllBattoHy roxnacAHtsU
wbodS'lrid^e WithSlh^hlanidi Tot^M^
orph^'^^ihhf aiiid h>th(''W^^yjlm<td>fi;r^
nofth place, ip the centre of whkph fiands a guilt fiatoe, in bronze
of
THROUGH SWEDEN* 39
of Guftavus Adolphus. Oii t^ fida of this fquare, the right
and ;the lieS^ aM two edi<a^ the fipotsofjirhich iU'e. in. cxadt corcdpoodettoo
md ^umnetoqr.with each other, Pne of them is the
palace of tho princefsroyal^ and the other the. opeta-j^ufe. It
is muGh to be regretted that the houfes in this place are Qot built
in fucb a fiyk and order as to anfwcr to Hiefe buildings. If they
were altered and embellifhed iii a manner analagous to the prin*
ce&'s palace and theopera*houfe, I-will venture to fay, that there
are few eitics which would aifoid fuch e magnificent point of
view as the rmrth.bridge of Sto^holm would thert affgrd. To
this is to be added the eifccjt |Mdduced on the imagination, by
the noife of the water rufbing |pt. a violent cataract through the
arches of the bridge, vtdiich completes the romantic afTemblage.
After what has beerr laid of the iltuation of Stockholm, it will
be eafy ior conceive- what a change the appearance of the whole
fcene muft undergo by ;the oppoftfe feafens.
The grand and mofe diflinguifbed feature in the locality of
that city, namely,* being iituated on iflands amidfe gulfs and
lakes, is dellroyed by the ice. The lame water which divides
the Inhabitants of the diffetebt ^taatters in femmer unites them
Iri' winter. It rbet^esjC, ;p iwhich. is Jrayerfcd by every
body. The illands are iflai^ds no loi^r : horfes in fledges, phaetonsi
and m:v^yt of . alI$fe^;^lac^ .onft^ fepur the gulf
trid lakes the fide , in the ice, and afeonifhcd
asit were ,to find theml^^^ j|i(^ company err tite^ f^ elctaenti
'Tbofeffake^;wUi^^in. tpightened by the
.'.o*: / cjcar
40 TRAVELS
dear tranfparency of their waters rdledlng every ol^ed; on their
banks, and t>rerenting the animated picture of ikifTs, oars, and
fmall fails, are now turned into a place of rendezvous ior men
and children mingling in one throng. They walk, ilide, fly about
in fledges, or glide along on fmaU ikates.
.
In the exerciic pf
fleating they difplay great dexterity and addrefs, and amufe t||\c
fpectators with the eafe and quicknefs of their various movements
; darting forward with the ipeed of arrows ; turning and
returning, and balallcing -their: bodiel according to inclination
and circumftances, in fuch a rnanner that it is fometimes difficult
to imagine what can he thar principle of motion. There
is no part of, this great tpals of water that is not arrefled and
lubdued by the froft, except the current under the north bridge,
nnd oh the fouth near the kings ftahles. Here the water, which
during the .kecneft froft dalhes and foams with great nolle
through the arches of the bridge, fends up roajeftic clouds of vapour
to a conliderable height in the atmofphere ; where, in the
extreme rig^ of winter, being ' converted the intehfenefs of
die cold into fedid particles, they arc peecipitabed down through
jtheir weight, and prefcnting dicir fmfece to fun, aCuihc the
appearance of afhower qf reflecting the Iola^rays^,ai^
adorned vvitb all mannw bf c<dours,l .In the interior ^ Stobk;
Iblm, thirbi^hbut idrit8"dlffereht;|^^ m wntcr
in .like manner undergoes a ftidden change.: Thh ihqw that be?
^hli tb fail in the iattwwrcelB of autiirnn co!^ airf hides ;thc
ibeeii ^ l^ce bf^ ; and rimdd^ fdca^
THROUGH SWEDEN; 41
iiint and convenient than they are in fummer or autumn ; at
which feafbns, partly on account of the pavement, and partly on
account of the dirt, they are often almoil impalTablc. One layer
of fnow on another, hardened by the froft, forms a furface more
equal and agreeable to walk on, which is ibmetimes raifed more
than a yard above the Rones of the ftrect. You arc no longer
ftunned, by the irkfome noife of carriage-wheels ; but this is
exchanged for the tinkling q( little belb, ^ith which they deck
their horles before the fledges. The only wheels now to be feen
in Stockholm are thoie of fmaHl carts, .employed by men fervants
of families to fetch water from the pump in a cafk. This
compound of cart and cafk always (truck me as a very curious
and extraordinary object ; infomuch, that I once took the trouble
of following it, in order to have a nearer view of the whimlical
robe in which the froft had invefted it, and particularly of the
variegated and fantafllcal drapery in which the wheels were covered
and adorned. This vehicle, with all its appertenances,
adbrded to a native of Italy a veiy fingular fpectaclof* The horfc
was wrapped up, as it feemed, in a mantle of white down, which
under his breaft and belly was fringed with points and tufts of ice.
Stalactical ornaments of the lame kind, fbme of them to the
length of a foot, were alfb^atl^cihed to his nofe and mouth. The
fervant that attended the Jit 1^ on a frock, which was cncruRed
with a. RUfl mafs pf ice. His eye-brows an4 hair jingled
with icicles, .which fo^ed b^. the aftion of the froR on his
breath.and perfpiratum. Sometimes the water in the pump was
VoL. I. G frozen.
42 TRAVELS
frozen, fo that it became ncceflary to melt it by the injection of
a red-hot bar of iron. I have attempted to make a drawing
of this carriage ; but it is difficult for art to imitate the operations
and eflefts of the froft, .difplayed in the various appearaticcs of the
ice ; its tranfparcncy and the fantaftical beauty of its embroideries
are not eafily copied. For the purpofc of rendering the dc-
I have ch^iV^the pump at the bridge near
opportunity of introducing into the
^ near ffie houfe called Rofena-
^^S^.-^riangle of.the ftrect lead-
I have
^d^}^^|^|lpdatiOn ofbne pfthOfe ffivdl fledges ffiat are uied
0'^gggo^'n one'plaee to another,
pf Stockholm. Neither
any thbg pn their" Tieads or Ihoulders,
which ^'puffi on befttfe them.
feft hip and
glide dovrn te the bpttpfti yvith a velo-
; " ^^^%^:,>'^hat a Rriking'-fcpile ffie - ftreets
ofSfOckhoiffi in sirinter prefent to^^n forester; one
that came froift the fouthern part of Europe.

Vtr
THROUH SWEDEN. 43
111 the winter 1 799, I beheld at Stockholm a fpectacle of a
very uncommon nature, and fuch as I never, in all probability,
lhall fee a fecond time. It was a fugar-houfe on fire in the
fuburb, on the fouth fide of the city. The accident being announced
by the difeharge of cannon, all the fire engines were
immediately hurried to the aid of the owners. The feverity of
that winter was fo great, that there was not a finglc fpot near,
where the water was not frozen to the depth of a yard from the
furface. It was nccelTary to break the ice with hatchets and
hammers, and to draw up the water as from a ivell. Immediately
on filling the calks, they were obliged to carry them off
with all polfible fpced, left the water fliould be congealed, as in
fad about a third part of it was by the time it could be brought
to the place where it was wanted. In order to prevent it as much
as poffible from freezing, they conftantly kept ftirring it about
with a ftick ; but even this operation had only a partial effed.
At laft, by the united power of many engines, which launched
forth a great mafs of water, the fire was got under, after deftroying
only the roof, the houfc Itfelf being very little damaged. It
was in the uppcr^ ftorics of the building that the ftock of fugar
was depofited ; there were alfo many veffels full of treacle, which
being broken by the falling-in of the roof, the juice ran down
along the fidcs of the walls. The water throwm up to the top of

the houfc by the engines, and flowing back on the walls, ftaircafes,
and through the windows,wasftopped in its downward courfe
by the mighty power of the froft. After the Are was ettinguiflicd,'
G 2 the
44 TRAVELS
the engines continued for fomc time to play, and the water they
difeharged was frozen airnoft the inftant it came in contact with
the walls already covered with ice. Thus a houfc was formed of
the moft extraordinary appearance that it is poflible to conceive.
It was fo curious an object that every body came to gaze at it as a
fomething wonderful. The whole building, from top to bottom,
was incruftated with a thick coat of ice : the doors and windows
were clofcd up, and in order to gain admiffion it was ncccffiiry
with hammers and hatchets to open a paflage ; they were obliged
to cut through the ice another ftair-cafe, for the purpofc of afeending
to the upper ftories. All the rooms, and w^hat remained of
the roof, were cmbclliflied by long ftalactitcs of multifarious
fliapcs, and of a ycllowifli colour, compofed of the treacle and congealed
water. This building, contemplated in the light of the
fun, feemed to bear fome analogy to thofe diamond caftlcs that
arc railed by the Imaginations of poets. It remained upwards of
two months in the fame ftate, and was vifited by all the curious.
The children in particular had excellent amufement with it, and
contributed not a little to the dcftruction of the enchanted palace,
by fearching for the particles of fugar, which were found in
many places incorporated with the ice.
The change of the fcafons produces at Stockholm, as every
where elfc, a difference in the amufements and occupations of
the people. But it is not in many places that this difference is
fo fcnfibly felt as at Stockholm. During the long days of fummcr,
when Jthc twilight for more than a whole month fupcricdes
the
THROUGH SWEDEN. 4j
the ufe of candles, all the inhabitants of tolerable fortunes quit
the town and retire to the country. There they continue the
three or four following months, in fpite of every inconvenience
which the weather may occafion. Their country houfes are fitted
up in a ftyle of great magnificence and luxury, and many families
live at more expence in thefe manfions than in their town
rcfidcnces. Thole villas are for the moll part plcafantly fituated,
and embcllilhed by works of art, which fccond and improve the
efforts of nature. You there find hot-houfes, in which they raifo
peaches, pine-apples, grapes, and other fn;Kt. All kinds of wines,,
liquors, and other delicacies, arc lavilhcd at the table of a Swedifli
gentleman, or rich manufacturer, or merchant, in the country
Tiie ceremonies and ftiffnefs that prevail at town entertainments,
are as much as polfible laid afide. The houfos of the merchants
arc the moff agreeable as well as the beff maintained, becaufo
they live in the moff unreffrained manner, that is to fay, with the
leaft etiquette, and are the richeft clafs of focicty. The nobility
never can diveft thcmfclvcs entirely of that formality which feems
to be a part of their inheritance, and confcqucntly they do not
enjoy the pleafurea of the country in perfection. The two French
travellers prcvioully mentioned, who certainly entertained no
prejudices againff the nubility, rnade the fame remark in their
journey through Sca^^a ; and it may be juftly extended to the
whole of that order in every part of Sweden. Many gcntle-
 men, they fay, pals the fummer in the country, and feme
of
46 TRAVELS
of them the whole year. But a rcfidence in this province, from
a ridiculous vanity, is by no means fo agreeable as it might be.
The villts of gentlemen to one another are always vifits of cere-
mony. 1 hey are attended with their horfes, dogs, and a train
of lervants, and remain at each others houfes for feveral days to-
gethcr. Their round of vilits being made, they live at home
for the remainder of the year. They are lb conceited of their
.rank, that they will not admit women of inferior birth into their
company, even though they be married to perfons of the highclt
quality. 1
The Swedes know nothing of horlc-racing, nor are they at all
acquainted with what the Engliih call hunting. When they
fpeak of the chace, they mean by it the fport of Ihooting game.
In this they fancy themfelves great adepts, though they have not
attained to any degree of fkill in the art, and are by no means to
be compared to the fportfmcn of Italy or England. Hawking,
and the various modes of catching birds, which conftitute fo great
a Iburcc of amufement in Lombardy, are wholly unknown to
themi nor do they take any great pleafurc in -riding on horfeback,
or in other diveriions and Iports of the field, that yield a
mixture of pure air and bodily excrcife. The great enemy to the
fpirit of fociety in Sweden, both in town and country, and that
which renders their parties the moft heavy arid infipid in Europe,
is cards and ether games of hazard. Ladies and gentlemen, old
and young, neither think nor dream of any thing But cards. There
THROUGH SWEDEN. 47
is no enjoyment without play. No perfon is looked upon as Ibciable
and pleafant, unlefs he knows how to play at hojion:* this
is reckoned the height of focial accomplifliment. All you can
do in fummer in the open air for your amuiement, is to make
cxcurfions in the environs of Stockholm, or to faunter in the
garden of Vauxhall, which is an humble imitation of that near
London. As for walking about in the town, that is out of the
queftion, on account of the pavement of the ftreets, which* I believe,
is by far the worft that can be met with in Europe. There
are fometimes carriage-races, and alfo bo^t-raccs, or what they
call regatta, which ferve as a temporary divcrlloh. The principal
walks or cxcurfions are, to the royal parks at Ulrikfdal,
Haga, Drottningholm, and Carlebcrg. The king has fome palaces
in the vicinity of Stockholm, befidcs thclc of Griplholm, and
Strbmlholm; but the moft beautiful, as well as the moft fre--
quently inhabited, is that of Drottningholm.
Drottningholm, or Queens Ifland, isfituated at the diftance of
fix miles from Stockholm, on an ifland in the lake of Malar.
The palace or caflle Hands on the edge of the lake, which here
prelents a magnificent view. The Htuation of the palace is beautiful,
and the gardens belonging to it being of confiderablc extent
add much to its allurements. This building appears to great advantage.
The front and back parts are pcrfcdly uniform, each
containing thirty-one windows, befides thofe in the two pavilions
or wings. Near the place is a number of- houfes, in which one
* Bofton is the name of a game at cards not unlike that uf cafino.
hundred
48 TRAVEI.S
hundred and feventy gcntlenien may be conveniently lodged.
The princes and princclTes have each feparate pavilions. The fide
of the palace fronting the lake has a flight of fteps, with a baluftrade,
which is ornamented with iron flower-pots. On a kind
of platform, between the fteps and the caftle, ftand two fmall
ftatues in bronze ; and another of the fame compofition is placed
between the fteps and the lake, reprclenting Neptune. On the
ftair-cafe arc two lions of marble holding fcutchcons, and Icveral
other marble ftatues. On the oppofite fide of the palace, parallel
to the whole length ofthc building, is a terrace adorned with a
baluftrade, and tvro brazen ftatues. In the midft of a grafs-plot,
or bowling-green, on which a few yew-trees are planted, is a large
bafin of water, with a Hercules deftroying the hydra : there arc,
befides this, fevcral pieces of water of fmall fize, and a number of
figures in bronze arc arranged around thofe bafins. At each end
ot the terrace is an iron gate, over one of which arc two lions in
bronze, and over the other two horfes. Dcfcending from the terrace,
you fee four large vafes and four ftatues of the fame metal.
All the works in bronze which you obferve here, were taken at
I raguc in the thirty years war. On one of the vafes you perceive
the cypher of the Emperor Ferdinand II. They are, for the nioft
part, m the ftyle of the Florentine fchool, in which thc German
artifts ufed at that time chiefly to ftudy. The walks in the garden
are well laid out, but in a fafliion that approacl.es too much the
ftiflhcfi of ftudied regularity. One quarter of it,^llcd Canm, is an
imitation of theChinefe maiuicr. 'Here is erefted a large pavilion
amidft
THROUGH SWEDEN. 49
amidft a dozen of fmaller ones, each deftined for different pur*
poles : the whole refembles the refidence of a mandarin. Of the
fmaller pavilions there is one that contains a complete forge and
work-fliop, with the ncceflary apparatus for making locks, an art
in which Guftavus III. is faid to have excelled, and which he frequently
pra(5lifed. It is cuftomary, among Mahomedan princes,
or perhaps a duty enjoined by their laws, to learn in their youth
fomc trade, by means of which they may gain a fubfillencc, in cafe
of their being reduced to that neceffity by Ibme of thofe fudden revolutions,
which are incident to all defpoticj^overnments. I do not
fuppofe that Guftavus III. w'as aduated by any luch motive ; but as
this prince, from fomc reafon or other, chofe to be a mechanic,
there was a lingular propriety in a king of Sweden becoming an
artificer in brafs and iron. The other pavilions ferve for bedrooms,
for fupper-rooms, dancing and card-rooms. The furniture,
which is very Iplendid, was brought from China ; but, after
all, the objed with which a fpectator is moft forcibly imprclled
in the pleafure-grounds of Drottningholm, is the contrail between
trees and flowers and barren rocks. In the palace itfelf is to be
leen an elegant library, fitted up with ^eat taftc. Befides a well
chofen colledion of books, it contains a number of Etrurian vales,
fome of them highly valuable. Among an immenfe number of
manuferipts, there is one by the celebrated Queen Chriftiana, entitled
Mtfcellaneons Thoughts ; alfo a copy in the hand-writing of
Charles XII. when a child; on one of the leaves of which is in-
VoL. I. H feribed
50 travels
fcrlbcd vhtcerc. aut mon,*^ Many paiTages are here tranferibed
I'roin Cornelius Nepos and Quintus Curtius. Bcfidcs books, the
library comprehends a cabinet of natural hiftory and another of
antient and modern medals, and likewife a collcAion of original
FIcmiili, Dutch, and Italian paintings. The whole forms a
monument of that love of fcience, and tafte for the fine arts,
which fo eminently diftinguiflicd the queen of Sweden, mother
to Guftavus 111. and filler to Frederic the Great of Pruflia. The
medals are depofited in eight chclls, with one hundred and twenty
drawers. The princef^juft mentioned inftituted alfo an academy
of belles-lettres, who, during her life time, held their meetings
at Drottningholm. The palace of Drottningholm farther offers
to your view a gallery of psuntings, the principal fubjedls of
which arc, the battles and vidlorics of the kings and princes of
Sweden.
Ever)' year an exhibition takes place at Drottningholm, at the
kings expcncc, reprefenting a tournament, in which all the laws
of chivaliy are obferved with the greateft exadnefs. This fhew,
which is generally attended by an immenfc crowd of fpeilators,
carries the imagination back for four or five centuries. It was
particularly brought into vogue by Guftavus III. who was a great
lover of whatever tended to imprcls the mind with ideas of grandeur.
His prefent Majefty, who Ihews a difpofition to tread in
the footfteps of his father as much as pofliUe, after his acceffion to
* Viftory or death.
the
THROUGH SWJDEN. 5 *
the throne revived this yearly feftival, which during the regency
had been for fotr^e time difcontlnued. When I was in Sweden,
the day fixed for the celebration was the 30th of Auguft. A few
days before a grand ball was given, during which the crown herald
entered the room, and proclaimed the royal challenge in the following
words : GuRavus the fourth, Adolphus, by the grace of
God, the moft puiflant king of the Swedes, Goths, and Vandals,
to all our faithful and beloved counts, barons, knights, and gen-
tlemen of our kingdom, poflciTed of gallantry and virtue, health.
We make them a tender of our royal goo^ will, and we pray God
to have them in his holy, keeping, all and every one of them,
according to hisbirth,.raak, and dignity. Having obferved with
plcafurc that the nobility of our kingdom in general, and more
efpecially thofe who arc ncareft our perlbn, the officers of our
crown, and other gentlemen belonging to our court, are ftill
" animated with the noble defire of glory, with the valour and
ardour for brave adlions, by which the knights of Sweden were
 fo greatly diftinguiihcd of old ; and that our faid nobility hath
on all occafions givcn> ftriking. proofs of courage; and being
willing, after the example of our ancefiors, to do all within our
power to cheriffi and fupport that precious love of honour,
which forms heroes in the very midft of peace; and further,
" to preferve a tafte for warlike, excrcifcs, by affording opportu-
nitics tQ thole poffelled of military fpirit to fignalizc therafclvcs
:
for thofe reafous we have refolvcd, according to antient cuftom,
" to hold a public tournament at our callle of Droitningholm,
H2:
where
TRAVELS 5=
where, in conjundion with a number of knights, counts,
barons, and other gentlemen of name and arms, we will main-
tain and defend againft all who lhall lawfully be admitted to
thefe excrcifcs, and fhall prefent themfclves at the barriers of the
circus, and in the prcfcnce ofjudges eleded for the occafion, as
well againft all colledivcly as againft each individually, that the
laws of honour, enlivened by thofe of love, acquire doubleforce in
the hearts ofvalorous knights ', which opinion we and our knights,
armed at all points, will defend on horfeback againft all the
knights who lhall oppole it, by joufts and alternate combats,
with halberd, javelin, fword, and piftols ; in which combat the
laws lhall be obfenxd which we now prelcribe. (Here the laws
were recited.) Thefe laws or conditions were accepted by the
knights,who promifed to prefent themfclves on this honourable ap*
peal, and to maintain. That the laws 4)fhonour havefufficient power
of themfehes in the hearts of valorous knights, and thdt,fo farfrom
receiving any additionalforcefrom love, it is, on the contrary, by uniting
with chivalry, that love obtains itsfplendour and duration ; and
thereupon they craved liberty to appoint, as judges on their part,
one who was named in their declaration or deed of acceptance. As
to the particulars of this fete, which lafted fcveral days, it will be
fufficient to fay, that every thing was attended to which we read
of in the accounts of ancient tournaments, and that the prizes were
diftributed on the laft day, under the direction of the queen, ac^
cording to the fentence of the appointed judges By one of the
laws it was granted that the knights might wear upon their armour
the
THROUGH SWEDEN. 53
the ribbands or favours of their ladies. It was in the power of the
ladies to propole prizes for which the knights were to contend, by
running at the ring. This, I believe, is the only inftance in our
days of an attempt being made to reltore a fpccies of diverlion.
Which for fevcral ages had fallen into difufe, though in former
times it was extremely popular. It was fwted to the manners of
that period in which it flourilhed, and produdive not only of pleafure
but real utility. This can at prefent fcarccly be fuppofed to
be the cafe, as the mode of warfare and the ipirit of heroifm now
exifting, feem to require excrcile and accamplilhments of a very
different kind. It is not eafy to afeertain precilely the epoch
when tournaments were firft inftituted, nor can we with certainty
determine on the patron to whom the honour of the invention is
due. It is claimed by the Englifh, the French, and Germans
:
yet we may fo far fix the time, as td afiiime that tournaments bc->.
gan to be knbwn about the ninth century, and that they are of
eaftern origin. In the early period of the inRitution, it was not
ufual for females to attend at the tournaments, but fubfequently
they overcame their reludance to feenes of bloodfhed, and never
failed to form a confidcrable part of the circle of fpedators. No
doubt their prefenefc added greatly to the brilliancy of the aflemblage,
and contributed much to the repute and continuation of
this barbarous inftitution.
It may be obferved, that the name tournament was originally
bekowed upoti all Jrinds of military combats and exercifes, achieved,
according to certain regulations, by. aciumber ofknights and their
fquires, both for amufement and to fhew their valour-and activity.
On
TRAVELS 54
On the other ha.rxA, jouj fignified fingle combat, when knight was
oppofed to knight, and fquire to fquirc, with javelin or dagger.
After the proclamation of a tournament, and whilft the place of
a<ftion was preparing, the knights difplayed their titles and rights
for entering the lifts, by an exhibition of the armorial bearings of
their families, which were expofed to public view in the cloifters
of fome adjoining monaftery.
The royal park which is very large, and planted with trees of various
kinds, is fituated at the eaft lidc of Stockholm, towards the
lea. On the firft day of May the king and all the court, in their
carriages, accompanied by a guard, go in procclfton round the park
two or three times. Sometimes the king and prince will alight
from their carriages, and converfe with the foreign minifters or
other favourites, who happen to be prefent at this ceremony. Ori
a fmall eminence of the park which proJe<fts into the fea, the Spanlfli
ambaflador has not long ago built a lummer houfe. All the
lliips palling and repafting from the harbour of Stockholm come fo
near to this promontory, if I may call it by this name, as almoft
to touch it : and a perlbn may Ipeak with the crew or palTcngers
from the windows of that lodge, without raifing his voice above the
ufual pitch. When in the lodge, you fancy yourfelfon board of a
Ihip, not on terraJirma. In this there is a lingularity and novelty,
which gives an incitement to the mind, and gratifies the imagination,
in rough weather, by a momentary apprebenfion ofdanger,
foon changed into joy by the recollcaion that there exifts not the
leaft ground for alarm. Some ofthe Roman emperors, if I recollcft
juftly,
THROUGH SWEDEN.
55
juAly, were fond of ftretching out piers and building houfes on a
foundation raifed in the fea : whims ofthis kind arc to be met with
in every age and in every country. The king, of whofe domains
the park forms a part, has allotted portions of it to feveral noblemen,
with a view of engaging them to build houfes there. The
Spanifli ambaflador, for the improvement of his fanciful manlion,
has, at a very confidcrable expence, carried the foundation of it
farther into the fea ; and thus created the moft delightful fummcr
rcfidence that can be imagined.
On the twenty-fourth of June, or Midfummer-day, it is the
cuftom to place Ihrubs and flowers at the doors of great houfes,
as they do in France on the firft of May, and according to what
I have heard alfo in England. On that day the king and royal
family come to the park, where they take up their abode in tents
for the remainder of the month, that is, for the Ipacc of nearly a
week. A camp is formed of the garrifon of Stockholm, compolcd
of two regiments of foot-guards, fome companies of horfe-guards,
and a corps of artillery. Along the lines of the camp they raife
poles or polls, adorned with branches of cyphers, and Ibmetimcs
fcutchcons with mottos or devices. At the foot of the polls arc
placed barrels of beer on wooden frames : about lix or Icven
oclock in the afternoon, on a. particular lignal, the barrels arc
opened; when each Ibldier is prelented with a pipe, a loaf of
bread, two herrings, and Ibme money. All this is doh^ at the cxpence
of the officers. In the mean time the military mulic plays,
and the Ibldiers begin to drink and tO dance. Upon each of the
barrels
TRAVELS 5<5
barrels fits a foldicr, in the form of a Bacchus, or fome other
figure, more or Icfs ridiculous. Thole that are drefled up in this
manner firfl: take the liquor and propofe the toafts, which arc generally
numerous, and conftantly accompanied with the cry of
vivat, anfwering to the Englilh huzza. When any of the royal
family, or a general officer, chance to pafs by, their healths arc
drank, and always with the lame accompaniment of vivat. A
kind of mafquerade enfues for a Ihort time, during which the
foldiers amule the people, that flock round them in the lines of
the camp, with Ibngl, and indulge thcmlelvcs in various freaks
and ads of merriment. On the beating of the retreat, every
thing is again fubmitted to the reign of order. Such feftivals,
without diminilhing refped, certainly tend to excite in the foldicry
and people an intcreft and attachment to the royal family.
CHAPTER
THROUGH SWEDEN. 57
CHAPTER IV.
The Months of May and June, September and O&ober, partimlarfy
difagrecahle, on Account of the WeatherPrecautions againji the
Severities of Winter, Stoves, and Warm ClothingAmufements of
the Capital- in WinterPlays, Operas, Concerts, Balls and Affcmhlies
An Account of the Swedipi LaSies, their Beauty, Accompli/
hinents and MannersWomen of another DejeriptionCha-
rahier of a Svoedifh Petit MaitreSpirit of Society ; Mu/ic) Din*
ner-partiesForm(f^ity arid Rejiraint of Swedfh MantursEtiquette
of the CourtCqflume of DrefsPrivate Suppers given by
the King and Royal FamilyIntercourfe between the Court and
the People, and their mutual Relations of Condefeenjion and RefpeSt
Great AJJemblies at the Exchange, which are honoured by
the Prefence of the Royal FamilyPlaces of public Refort, and
their ExpencesA Club called the Society.
TTTHEN the cold of winter drives the people of fortune into
* the capital, then begin at Stockholm plays, operas, balls,
and great dinners, which during the fummer months had been
fufpended. Some months of the year are in Sweden extremely
difagrecable
:
' September and Oftober, when the rains fet in ;
and May and June, when the thaw commences. At thefe two
Vot. I.
' I fcafons
58 TRAVELS
fcafons travelling becomes almoft impoffible, , and the capital as
well as other towns, arc fo clogged and blocked up with mud and
dirt, that you can fcarccly move from one place to another. It
is for this reafon that the Swedes fo generally wear outer flioes,
called galoches, which arc very ufeful and necelTary for the pre-
Icrvation of health, by keeping the feet from wet. At this feafon
a carriage of ones own becomes indifpenfably neceflary ; for the
hackney coaches of Stockholm are fo filthy as not to be endured
by any lady, or almoft any gentleman.
It is not unnatural 'to fuppofe, that in the midft of a Swedifh
winter an Italian would run a rifk of pcrifhing through cold
;
but this is by no means the cafe. I was at Stockholm all the
winter of 1 799, when the cold was at or below twenty-five degrees
of the thermometer of Celfius ; and I can declare with
perfed truth, that I fuffered much lefs from the feverity of the
weather than 1 have fometimes done in Italy. If the cold in
thofe climates be great, the means of warding off its effcdls are
^portionably great. The ftoves in Sweden arc the moft ingenioully
contrived for heating a chamber, and keeping it warm with
a very fmall quantity of fuel, of any in Europe. They are rather
dangerous, it is true, if entrufted to ftrangers, who do not know
how to manage them, and who, by fhutting up the vent at an
improper time, may occafion too great an expenditure of vital air.
But the Swedes know fo exactly the moment when it is fit to
clofe the air-hole, that there b fcarccly an inftance of any accident
happening from the ufe of ftoves in Sweden. They ^e in
general
THROUGfir SWEDEN. 59
general fo cohftructed, aa to correfpond in their appearance with
the furniture and ftyle of the apartment in which they are placed.
A great number of pipes proceed from the ftove, which do not
merely ferve to conduct the fmoke, but their chief ule is to circulate
the heated air that is combined with the fmoke throughout
the apartment. It is true that, in order to refift the power of
winter at Stockholm, you muft, when you go out, carry about
with you a whole wardrobe of cloaths ; this inconvenience, however,
is little thought of, when cullom has rendered it familiar.
I have often been greatly diverted at feeing a Swede, before he
came into a room, divefting himfelf of his pellice, great coat,
and upper Hioes, and leaving them in the anti-chamber. The
veftments or extema^oi ten pcrlbns arc fufEcient to load a large
table. I knew a gentleman, who diiliked pellices, and fubftituted
common great coats, of which he wore two at a time. Thele,
with two pair of gloves, his galoches, and his flick, make altogether
ten different articles for the anti-chamber, viz. two gfeat
coats, two galoches, four gloves, one flick, and one hat. A g<K^
memory is requiiite not to forget any of thole articles on taking
your leave. When a gentleman has occaflon in winter to go any
where on foot, or to walk ever fo fliort a diflance from his carriage,
he Wears great jack- boots, lined with fur or flannel, and under
them Ihoes and white ftorAings ; the boots hepulls off in the
antl-diam,ber. With fuch boots and a good pellice, a naan may
fet the utmofl feverity ofcold at defiance.
Of the winter amufomtots of Stockb(dffl, 1 do not feel any
1 2 great
6o TRAVELS
great inclination to be particular ; nor do I apprehend that in*
formation of this kind is very generally interefting. Theatrical
entertainments, which among nations that have arrived at a high
degree of civilization and refinement, are confidered as a great
fourcc of plcafiirc, are not fb much fought after by the inhabitants
of Sweden. Guftavus III. was the firft king who wiflied to
excite a tafte for the theatre ; in his reign, therefore, the ftage
met with great encouragement, and rofe high in reputation.
The opera at Stockholm was thought little inferior to that at
Paris. Bcfides fome v^ry good fingers, feveral excellent balletdancers
were engaged ; but fince that kings death it has greatly
fallen off, and is now very little attended to. The Swedes have
never at any period difeovered an original genius for mufic. All
the operas hitherto performed in Sweden are either tranllations
from French or Italian pieces, or the works of fome foreign maftcr.
As to mufical compofitions, not a fingle piece has been produced
fineb the departure of Vogler, that comes up even to mediocrity.
If indeed the mere application of mechanical rules,
without any knowledge of declamation or fcnfibility of foul, Were
fufficient to Sbnftitute a compofer in mufic, we might confer
that appellation on Mr. Hofner, and with the fame juftice we
might call Mr. Kaifoner a finger, ifvoice alone gave a claim to that
appellation. Or, if it were polfible for any one to excel in vocal
performance without voice, modulation, or method, we might
rank Madame Mello, Mademoifellcs Stading and Myaberg, Mr.
Stenborg and oUiers, in the number of virtuofi. The dramatic reprefentation
THROUGH SWEDEN. 6i
fentation that is moft relilhed, and which to thofe who know the
Swedifh language is certainly the moft interefting, is the little
pieces aded by young perfons who are training up for the operas
Among thefe there are now and then fomc who give true indications
of genius in their attempts. Thofe little operas, as well as
plays, arc exhibited in the old theatre. Befides the royal theatres
there is that of Mr. Stenborg, where the comic operas are giveni
It is but little frequented by people ofrank, and is in every refpeet
much inferior to the other houies.
I was told an anecdote ofa celebrated adrcls at one of the royal
theatres in the reign of Guftavus III. which ferves in fome mcafure
to pourtray that monarch, and at the fame time to paint the
airs in which the vain and conceited race of players were led to
indulge themfelvcs by the condefeenfion of the king. The firfl:
adrefs in the national theatre was a Danilh woman of the name
of Walters, who was the daughter of a common fiilor, but had
received a good education at Copenhagen for the ftage. Being
handfome, as well as diftinguilhed in her profeffion,'fhe had many
admirers, whom, it was her delight to torment by every fpecies of
caprice. ' Her infolence became fo great through habitual indulgence,
that (he didnotheiitate to difplay it even towards the king
hinifelf. Conftdering her falary as inad^uate to her merit, Ihe
petitioned for an augmentation ofher allowance^ and one day perfonally
appliM to the kii in a tone very paihive and peremptory.
His majelly defired her ^tb ibe contertf vritK the j^tfent payments,
and told her, in a vf^ dkbtded mabnen that Ihe muft not expect
her
62 TRAVELS
her falaiy to be ever encreafed. Very well," faid the lady,
then I demand my difmilfion. You lhall neither be dif-
mifled, nor better paid." O ! then I lliall make my clcape^

fly from the country, and never Ihcw my face in it again."

You may try, but you will probably not find it very ealy to get
out of the kingdom, if I forbid it." A Ihort time after, notwithfianding
the vigilance with which flic was watched by order of
the court, Ihc fiicceeded in her plan, and at the laft pofl;-houfe
wrote in the day-book the following lines to the king : Sire, it
is much eafier to cfdipc from your kingdom than you fiippole."
She defired that this day-book might be Ihcwn to his m^efliy ;
and as a curiofity it was fent to him. She then went to Copenhagen,
where being known and received with great applaufe, flie
attached herfelf to that flage. The king of Sweden, fome time
after, made new propolals to her, which flic at firft treated with
great difdain, but at length having obtained the fum flic demanded,
flic returned in triumph to Stockholm.
The concerts and balls which are given in the winter feafon are
thofe at the Exchange, Vauxhall, and femae particular Ibcictics
and private houfes. As to the concerts at the Hall of the Knights,
they arc fcarcc worth mentioning, beeaufc they are in general made
up of the fame fingers and the fame band as the former. The
foreign virtuofi, wH6 paffing through this citjr go to hear them,
are always, difappointed, and almoft in cvciy refpect diffatisfiedi
One of the principal public amufementsin winter are the balls at
the Exchange. To the lovers of dancing ' theie are a very great
rcfource..
THROUGH SWEDEN.* 6j
reiburce. In the centre of the building is a large ball-room, and
on either fide apartments fpr card-players. Theft balls . are frequented
only by people of falhion ; but thoft at Vauxhall arc open
to every body, and in general abound with bad company. The
alTemblies at the Exchange atlbrd a very pleating light. There, in
one evening you may fee all the beauties of the capital collected
together.
The ladies of Sweden are, generally fpeaking, very handlbmc.
Their countenances bear the characteriftic of northern phyliognomy,
which is an cxprellion of the moft perfect tranquillity and
compofure of mind, indicating nothing of that palfion and lire
which, to every difeerning obftrvcr, is vifible in the features of
the French and Italian ladies. As there is but little gallantry or
attention (hewn them by the men, and as they pals a great part of
their time either alone or amongft tbemftlvcs, their converfation,
though they arc well educated, poflefles but a fmalllhare either of
variety or intereft ; and of that happy art of fupporting converfation
with vivacity, which lb eminently diltinguilhes our Italian
ladies, they are wholly deftUute. The principal object that employs
their time and attention is dreft ; and this anxiety is rather
the effect (ff an ambition tooutdiine their rivals in elegance and
iplendour, than the tefult of an eagemeft pleaft the men. and
make conqueib. They are, however, not ftte ftom the imputation
of coquetry, beeauft th^ are certainly fond of admiration and
praift : they would like to fte every man at their feet, and would
wifli to be caUed t^ belles of the North : but their predominant
palfion
travels 64
paffion is a dcfire of public notice and diftinction. There is not
an individual for whom they feel, in their heart, fuch ftrongand
violent fentiments of friendlhip, tendemefs, and love, as arc
found in thofe who live in warmer climates.
The fame conftitution which produces diftance and referve in
one clafs of women, is the caufe of exceffive licentionfiiefs in the
inferior orders. The prodigality of their kindnels is in proportion
to the'coldnefs of their temperament. They fcem to think they
can never give enough, becaufo they feel little even in bellowing
the greateft favours. .There are not in Stockholm, as in other
places, any women of the town : infiead of thefcindividuals
have miftrellcs, who maintain a rank in fociety much above their
condition in life. They arc pretty much in the Ryle of fomo
dlllinguiflied individuals of that /efeription in England. They
require to be courted in a formal manner ; nor are their good
graces, fuch as they arc, to be obtained by any. one without fome
previous introduction; a cullom which I am far from difoommending,
but which, on the contrary, I think is entitled to fome
credit, even though they are not contented with one lover at a
time. Perhaps they might be fo fatisfied,. and even inclined to
exchange their condition with the more uniform Rate of concur
bines, il they could meet with admirers fufficiently affluent and
generous to enable them to confine their acquaintance to one per^
fon. But the honorary premium ufually given them is very fmall,
and they muR have at leafl Icven or eight loyers to iupport the
Ryle of drefs they afpire to, which is the only objeA of their care
THROUGH SWEDEN. 65
day and night. They exadl from their friends and favourites a dcgrec
ofattention and refpcft even in public, that appears extraordinary
to a foreigner. They would immediately dilinils a lover
that would hefitate to bow to them in public places, or even to
kifs their bands, as is the cuRom in Sweden for gentlemen to
perform, in token of rcfpect to ladies of rank and charadcr. I
have often feen officers of diRin^ion fubmitting to thefe als of
humiliation toward women of the looleR condu(R, and fcarccly
worthy to belong to the -Balladiere caRc : for the lame ladies,
*
who are thus courted by their feveral loVers, and, require lb
much ceremony and attention in day-light, will fometimes parade
the Rrects when it is dark, and expofe themlelves to any adventure
that may enable them to gain money. From the facility
of keeping miRrefles by a fpecies of partnerlhip, it happens that
the men in Sweden, elpecially in the capital, feel no jealouly
;
they enjoy love, as Hclvetius exprefles it, but do not figh.
The Swedes, like the Englilh, arc taken up with their bulincls
in the day time, and Ipend their evenings at cards, or Ibmetimes,
though Very rarely, in the company of the ladies. A Swedilh
petit maUri is an animal that holds a middle Ration between
beings of that kihd in Gtfmany and thole ui Francq. He is a
fool, 'as in all countries. He Ipends the whole^&y in changing his
clothed, wears large Whilkers reaching length of his
''
'I .
'
.
^ girls ia ladUy. whplib favours are to bo purchafed
wltl) moneys but who are not oa that account held' as objects of fcorn or reproaiebt
becaufe it bblon^to their cafie to be thds unfortunately circumflanced.
K chin.
6 TRAVELS
^itiy and paints his face. If* added to thefe decorations, he can
but fctape a little on the fiddle, he is the darling of all the ladies
who play, in their feeble way, on the harpfichord. A tafte for
mude in Swedifh focicties, is by no means the predominant paf>
lion. It is as yet fo little formed, and the judgment of the audience
fo wavering and uncertain, that, after hearing any thing
played, they will confidcr with themfelvcs what opinion it may
be proper to give ; and watch the countenance of any foreigner
that may happen to be prelent in order to regulate their fentiments,
and decide concerning their own impreilions. Tafle is the
rcfult of a well conRruded and 'Wtll informed mind, and of a fenfibility
of difpofition. Until the Swedifh ladies lhall change their
minds and hearts, they will always ling and play mpre for the
purpole of furprizing by the cafe of their execution, than for that
of giving delight by their expreflion. It is impofliblc that they
fhould communicate to others what they do not feel themfclves.
However, for their confblation it may be fiiid, that in France,
Germany, England, and in all countries, there are muficians of
tile fame inefficient dais.
Thewant of muftc in the poHte drcles, or anything approaching
to that feience, is not, l am forty to fay, compenfated by the
attradions and charms of convcrlation. You fed the want of
many things in Sweden, which in fotnc other countries conftitutc
a fund of focial pleafure and entertainment. There is, for
ihftance, npthing to be met with that refctobled' thofe friendly
*nners, where a fmall number offelcft friends fticet, not for the
purpofo
THROUGH SWEDEN. *
67
purpofe of indulging in epicurean extravagance, but from the folc
motive of enjoying one anothers company. The Swedifli dinner
parties are cxpenfive arrangements of fliew and formali^. It will
often happen that out of forty or fifty people, who appear in confequence
of an invitation lent with all pollible ceremony, and
perhaps a week or a fortnight before the appointed day, fcarcely
three or four know one another fufficiently to make the meeting
agreeable. A foreigner may Hill fare worle, and have the misfortune
of being feated near a perfon totally unacquainted with any
language but his own. Before the company lit down to dinner,
they firA pay their relpeds to a lide table, laden with bread, butter,
cheele, pickled lalmon, and liqueur, or brandy > and by the
taAing of theie previous to their repaft, endeavour to give an edge
to their appetite, and to ftimulate the Aomach to perform its office.
After this prelude, the gueAs anange themfelves about the
jlinncr table, where every one finds at bis place three kinds of
bread, Aat and coarlc rye bread, white bread, and brown bread.
The 6rA fort of bread is. what the peafants cat; it is crifp and dry:
the fecond fort is common bread ; but the brown, laA mentioned,
has a fweet taAe, being made with the water with which the
veAels in the fugar-houlb walhed, and is the naAieA thing
.
poAU)lc. All dilM are at oQce put up^ the..table, but no
one is idlqwed to afk wha^ ^Jikes bt^ the difhes being
banded round in tegular fuccefbon ; and an Englhhman has often
opcalkm for all hU pattenee to. unut .tUl tiie ononis put m motion
which he has fixed hit daoir^ , Tht ^odes are more know-
K 2 ing
68 TRAVELS
ing in this rcfpcA, and, like the French, cat of every thing that
comes before them : and although the different difhes do not feem
to harmonize together, yet fuch is the force of habit, that the
guests apparently find no inconvenience from the moft oppofite
mixtures. Anchovies, herrings, onions, eggs, paftry, often meet
together on the fame plate, and are fwallowed promifcuoully.
The fweet is alTociated with the four, muftard with fugar, confcdlionaries
with fait meat or fait fifh ; in fhort, eatables are intermingled
with a poetical licence, that fets the precept of Horace
at defiance *
Sed non ut placidis coeant iinmitla.
An Italian is not very much at a lofs at thefe feafb ; but an nglifhman
finds himfclf quite uncomfortable and out of his element:
he fees no wine drank either with the ladies or the gentlemen
during dinner; but muft take it himfelf in a fblitary manner : he is
often obliged to wait for hours before he can help himfelf to what
he prefers to eat, and when the meat arrives, he generally thinks
it not drefled plain enough, but difagrecable from the quantity of
fpices with which it is feafbned. After dinner the ladies do not
leave him to his bottle ; he is expeded to adjourn immediately with
them to the drawing-room, where the company, after thanking
the mafter and miftrefi of the houfc with a polite or rather ceremonious
bow for their good cheer, are regaled witli tea and cpfiee.
I have not entered into a circumftantial defeription of thefe long
dinners, but only given the general ouUine, that I might not inflia
upon my readers that ennui, which I confefs I have myfelf
ibmetimes
THROUGH SWEDEN. 69
ibmctimcs experienced when I was among the number of the
guefts. In the interval between dinner and fupper, which however,
from the many hours that are thought neceffary for the
a<fls of eating and drinking, is not long, there is no amulement
whatever but playing at cards. If you canftot join in this rational
recreation, you are abandoned to your fate, and may lit in
fome comer of the room, indulging in meditation on whatem
fubjeft you pleafe.
1 have already noticed the extreme pailion of the Swedes for
cards ; an amufement too fafeinating in all countries, but which
in Sweden, efpccially among the higher orders, feems to abforb
every power and faculty of the foul. The following anecdote
may ferve to illuRratc it in a ftriking manner : nobleman of
great rank having waited longer than ufual for his dinner, and
feeing that no preparation was made for it, went down to call
his fervants to an account, and to examine into the reafon of the
delay. He found his boufehold, in imitation of their fuperiors,
deeply engaged at cards. They excufed themfelvcs to their
mailer by telling him that they were now at the moll interelling
point of the game ; and the butler, who had the grcatcll flake,
took the liberty of explaining the cafe to his excellency, who
could not in confcience but approve his reafons. However, being
unwilling to wait for his dinner till the game^as decided, he fent
the buticr to lay: the clodi^ vt^hile he himfelfiat down with the
other fervants, and managed the interell of that jndiyidpa^ in bis
ablehce. '
' ur
The
70 TRAVELS
The great formality and reftr^nt that prevails throughout all
the polite circles of Sweden, and which arc not banilhed even
by the fuperabundant luxury of a northern fcaft, and the justice
which all arc inclined to do to it, may without doubt be
traced to the court of Stockholm, the moft formal I believe in
Europe; nay, I had nearly iaid the world: but there is undoubtedly
ftill more of rigid etiquette at the court of Pekin.
The rcafon why the court of Stockholm has happened, fliall I
lay, to intrench itlclf in fo many forms and ceremonies above
all other courts, I haver not time to enquire; thwgh the rcfcarch
might be curious, and perhaps capable of belt^ illullratcd in a
fatisfadory manner, frotti the hiftory of the Swedilh government.
Thus milch wc' can fiiy, that Quftavus 111, who had a very exalted
notion of royal dignity and pre-eminence, added greatly to
the RriAnefs of etiquette, though it had already attained to a very
confidcrable height. As I have given ^ account of the dinnerparties
in private life, I lhall attempt Iheiy the manners of the
court, and Ipeak of the entertainments of the royal table, which will
furailh the reader with tolerably adequate ideas of the forms that
may be obferved on other iimilar occaliona. : A drawing-room
terminates commonly in a public liipper for the royal fmnily, who
fit alone at table, all the notnli^ and of the kingdom
Handing round as mere fpefiators. The jadifs of the lijnators,
and others of equal raiik, have the privilege -of being felted on
tah$urets, placed in femicircles at a diftan<^e^ frpm .the t^e, in
front of the king and queen. The houlhold officers pf the
rent
THROUGH SWEDEN. - 71
rent (niches of the royai family ftand bekii^ the chair erf the
ftei^bnage to' whom they belong: ^e fenaton at hiia Maje%s
left hand, and the ambafladora with other foreigners of diftindion
at his right. The king Ipeaks to every one according to their
rank, the degree of favour they poffefi with him, or other circunaftances.
The diihes are (erved, and the plates prelented to
the royal family by an oftcer called gentleman of the court.
The marfhal itands diredly oppolitc the king during the whole
of the entertainment, and the Reward of his MajeRy's houlhold
a little to the right behind him. Though the prelence of thefe
officers be wholly ufelels, it is thought necelTary to complete
the group. When the king has dined, he makes a iign to the
queen, and to the reR of the family, and all having anfwered
with a bow, he rifes from the table, takes a moR gracious leave
and withdraws to his own apartments, followed by the officers
of the court. The rcR <rf the royal family do the lame-; no
one prefumes to retire before they have quitted the room. An
inRance of thCexad formality of the court of Sweden was expcrienqed
by the Prince Biiht^ of HolRcin, when he came to
Stockholm on a vifit to the royal family, to whom he is related.
Before he could appear in public, he was obliged firR to wait in
form upon the prime inihiRer, Prince UMe'SeheeRer, who was
to preRnt him to the king as iotUi M he fad received his majeRys
orders to that purpo&. By 4^is miniRer the pyince biffiop
was, after fomd evid^ citcdmlbtnties, introduced to the cottrt,
and met with a as diRant and oeeetnonious as if he
had
TRAVELS 7
bad been fbntic foreign ambaiTador. At the public flipper he mufb
have flood with other diftinguifhed foreigners among the fpeftators,
if a fudden and well-timeid indifpofition had not furnilhed
an excufe for his abfencc. The queen dowager, however, fet
afide thefe troublcfome niceties, which fettered the refl of the
royal family, and treated the bifhop in the mofl cordial manner,
as the nephew of her late confbrt, anikwith thofe marks of efteem
which were due to his perfbnal charafter. In order to give him
what Ihe confidcred as his right, without infringing that of any
one elfc, fhe ordered the places at her table to be diflributed by
fcaled tickets. Evety one that was invited drew fuch a ticket,
and placed himfclf at table according to the number w'ritten
upon it ; but fhe bad privately given dirc^ions that the number
of the place between her and the princefs fhould be referved for
her kinfman, and put into the hat in which the tickets were col-
Jeded, after all the others were drawn out.
There is one advantage attending the Swediflr court: the
drefs is not half fb expcnfive as that required at other courts of
Europe. With three or four fuits of clothes you may appear at
every drawing-room for as .many years. The colour and form
being ottce fixed, there is no admiflion of variation. The drefs
of the ladies differs but little from the prefent fafhion in England,
except that the flecyes of their gowns arc cut in the Spaniik manner.
The colour muft be always black, except on gala days,
whin it is white. The head-drefs, ribbands,, and the fmaller
articles of the toilette, arc left to the fancy of the fcx. The drefl
of
THROUGH,SWII)EN, 73
of the men is a compound of the Spatiifli fafliion> and the national
co.{lume,'Whieh is followed by the peafantry in the fouthcrn
parts of Sweden. Their linall-clothes are cut in the common
manner, as in other countries, but made of the fame colotir with
the coat and cloak. The coat fits dole to the body and is very
ihort, buttoned quite dowti^' and befides this, faRened about the
waiR vdth a laih. The doak reaches below the knee and hangs
loofely on the back, though it he commonly wide enough to
wrap the body up in it, as in a Spanilh ddak; The ufual colour
is black. The cloak is lined with fcarlet coloured filk, made of
the fame ftulF with the &ih and waiftcoat ; and with the fame
the teams of the coat are alfi> covered^ -There is a particular
ornament belonging to the coat upon the Ihoulder, which confxfts
of narrow pieces of the fame fflk, fattened upon the feam
that joins the fleeve to the hody of the coat Thu addition
makes the fhoulders look broadary and often in^xroves the appearance.
1 hope I -ihdl' ndt be blamed foe intrododng thefc rearks,
as being only worthy the attention of hiylors and milliners
:
paintersi' end Ate curious in whatever rdates to that
charming art,lafe al^ iaterefted in them; for the drefs which
I4have been xhjl^hing^ is the coftuiite -Adopted by the Flemifh
fchool, and this teafbn'dderdia tobe me^ The Swedilh
govxmimeat has; thought' pmper^to^-iSk die 'mann^^
which in . tdiea;'^
fpecdatieh, yda^kty, #d the c^iim 0^^^
experienced fb' many changes, that It has confounded variety itfclf
VoL. I. L I will
74 TRAVELS
I will farther obferve, before I quit this iubJeA, that this mode of
drcfs'gives to the Swedifh court an air of magnificence and graadeur,
more firikingthan all the party>coloUred glare that you meet
w ith in other places ; in the fame manner as the imagination derives
more pleafure from contemplating a military corps, in the
plaineft uniform, than from the fight of an eqtuii afl^mblage of
men apparelled in richer clothes of different hues and^faihions.
This court-drefs, which may be confidered as the national uniform,
was finally eRabfiihcd by Guftavus III.
At the lame time that the moft rigid obicrv'ance of particular
forms is exacted by the Court of Stockholm, within what we may
call its own precincts, there is no country where the king, and
princes mix more familiarly with the people than in Sweden. This
makes the contrail the more ftriking; for it u a very different
thing to be admitted to the private luppers given by the king, and
the other branches of the royal family, and to Hand as a fpcctator
at the public exhibition at court. The king gives fuppers in a
domeflic and friendly way, twice, and fometimes three times a
week . On opera days thefe parties are at the royal apartments in
the opera-houfe : on other days, at an elegant palace called Haga,
or the Hague, not quite a Swedifh ttijle dillant from the northgate
of Stockholm, fituated on the border of a lake in the midft
of a wood ; this was the favourite relidence of bis late majefty.
It was in a ftoall pavilion, in a comer of fhe.gardena of Haga,
where the king is faid to have formed the plan of the revolution
in 1772} and that Ijpot is dill much vifited by the curious, as
beii^g
THROUGH SWEDEN.
being the birth-place of a great enterprize. Foreigners who have
been invited once to the kings private ' flippers are,, for the moft
part, honoured with a genctal invitation. The king ufually feats
himfelf between two ladies at a comer of 4he t^lc. At Haga
no fwords are worn, though the gentlemen are. otherivife dreffed
in their court uniform, which has been mentioned before. In
fummer, when the king redded for fomc time , at Haga, ftrangers
were alfti occafionally aiked to dinper; and it was underftood
that they were to pafs the day, and not to leave the
royal company till after fupper. In order to be invited to the
kings table, a Swedilh gentleman mud: at lead have the rank of
lieutenant-colonel. Younger officers are ibmetimes admitted,
but this is a mark of vciy particular fayour. At thofe private
dippers no formality is obferved even towards the royal family.
The queen and the princeiTes uled to take their places about the
middle of the table without any certain rule of didintlion. The
two princeiTes give, each of them* a dipper once a week, to which
itrangers once admitted hayCr.as at Ws mge^s, a general invitation.
The pages who wait at table, at all theie entertainments,
and who, as a badge of their office, parry a napkin under their
arm, are officers (^the army : theie only attend upon the royal
&mily. The fetpnts ^ho wait <m,the. reft, of the ppm^yare
|ierfons of Icnv extraSion, that have neither the education nor
rank of gentlcmcn.' Guftayus III. was. wont to difph^y a |yeat
portion of hihuity, CQnvjTial% .wit and humour^., at his. private
cnteitauimentaii c, He ina^ n |minl j^ftrye, notice, and
^6 TRAVELS >
fay ibtnethmg appropriate to every, ooe prefeot. The duke of.
Suderinania too was very attentive to the goefts! but the prefent
king, though polite and gracious, is more rclcrved in his manners t
and on the whole the court has exchanged its gsicty, magnificence,
and pleafurc, for an air of retirement arid infipidity.
The intcrcourfe between the court and the inferior affeinblies
and circles, exhibits a fingular mixture of feudal fi^nufOon andf
veneration forthedv and military- chief, and a refpcdl foir the per-
Ibnal rights of all clades and individuals in thenatirm;' forahboughi
a coniiderable fhare of modem fervil^ has b^n introduced, yet
there Rill remains evident traces of that fpirit of freedom and independence
which diftinguilhed the aiH:ient inhabitants of the
North. Thefe venerable relicks ate not quite annihilated, by the
extcnfion of ARaric defporifin, as in Euffia and China. A hardy
boldncR of charadcr, created by the nature of the country they
inhabit, gives to every individual a ienfe of bis own refpeiability
and confcquencc, which is collectively felt and aiTumed by whole
bodies and communities. That great poet, fcholar, and philofepher,
Milton, fomeu'here obfetves, that the Engliih are free, not
by virtue of their written laws or conventions, but beeaufe they
arc by nature a free people.- Laws, when they ate not maintained
and invigorated by the living principle of liberty, and a fenfe of
ju|pice, foon degenerate into dead-letter : and, on the other hand
where, that fpirit. is Rropg and aCtivCf laws and cuRrims are
chanjged, quaffed, and meliorated in favour of humanity, The
mofl;Mliant afrcmbly in Stockholm next .to.tiw coutbfe inU
gala.
THROUGH S^DEN. ^
a,''b:thatf 'held dne a fbrtrtigKf tte UppfeJ^ftall of the Exchange.
It begins at fix oclock in'the ctbnittg, and continues
till' ten or eleven} here yott lee colleHed all the rankj laiHion> and
beautythat the capital can boaft of. As foonns' th^ is a fudicient
numberof people aiTembledTof country-dances the ihufic begins.
The hall is Ipacious 'enough to hold nine or ten dilFerent dancing
parties. There ^ allo two* roohu for card-tables. About eight
oclock the royal falhily commonly make their appearance, but
without occalioning any inte^ption iir the entertainment. The
queen, with her attendants,- is '&ated in one of the balconies.
The king, princes of the bfeiod, and priidcedes, walk about the
room and conVerfc with the Company} ' The kinjg generally notices
and fpeaks to dmoft everjr perfcai in the lame manner h
in the drawing-room. He does not even' pafs over tbofe that
have not-hcen prefented' stt court, of vifhich delcription are many
difttnguilhed dimilics among the gentry^ clergy, and the mercantile
dais, and Ihews them great adabilrty ;. for though they are
not of noble birth, yet their education, and icel{ie^bility in lbciety
is deemed a fufocient titie - tb thefo marks bf 'attCnriOh. They
bring ^ir wives>^ and daughters tb. thcle afteiriblies, and never experience-,
as they might perhaps In btbert Obuntries, the mOrtifii!
cation of foemg thfn ^humbled 'br dej^^ed. ' The Exchange
siB&mbly ivras- at drfo 'Open to 'ail'bbfopaidy. of r^^ appear-^
Micei vritfaout fmiy Other 'conditiori. than of paying for their
entrance I Im&anincidjCnt vrhlchf oeiallbned a partial
alnnaladndn: thik.ntfpC&'ii: ThisibdC^^ to illuftrate.
*78 TRAVJEI.S
**
.~

tratc our prclcnt and fcts that mixture of courtly formality

and royal condefcenfion, of which we have been Ipeaking in''
a ftrong light, may perhaps not be thonght unworthy of beihg
mentioned in this place. In the reign of the late king, the conn-
tefi of Kaggyncck, wife of the Auftrtan ambaiTador at Stockholm,
being entitled by her birth to be diluted on the cheek by the emprefs
ofGermany, and the princefles of the Iihperial family, would
not fubmit to any other ceremonial at the court of Stockholm.
Inftcad of this, to kifs the hand of the queen and princefTes of
Sweden, ike held beneath her dignity : for this reafon, till thefo
important points ihould be adjufted, her prelentation at court was
deferred. But the countefs, who was young and fprightly,
thought that Ihe might at lead enjoy the amufement of the
aflembly, efpecially at a tithe when it ' was expeCled to be very
much crowded, every one being deflrous of feeing the queen, who
had but iatdy come abroad after the birth of the prince royal.
She was introduced to the allembly by her hulband. That Ihc
might have a better view of the room, ihe was placed in one of
the balconies ; and whether fioth chance or deiign very near the
one uiually occupied by the queen. The king had no iboner entered
the room, than he wasftruck with the light of the Countefs
of Kaggynedc; and coniidered her appearance, and the place ihe
had chofen, as a fort of defiance to* the rules of the court. He
therefore commanded Mr. Plommenvelt, who was mailer of the
ceremonies,, to tell Count Kaggyncck that it waa not proper for
his lady, in the preforit circumfi:ances, to be in the fome room with
the
tHROUGH SWEDEtJ. 79
the . zoyal &tnily. Mr. FlommenveLt, willing to foften the order
as much as poffible, went up to the count and told him in con>
fid(^nce> and as of h^ own accord, that it was not ufual for perions
of fuch a rank to appear .with the royal family before they
had been duly prefented, and that therefore he took the liberty of
advifing him to conhder the propriety of withdrawing, that he
might not run the rijik of giving offence to the king. But the
count, perhaps from fbme private pique againft Plommenvelt, anfwered
him in a very peremptory and lharp mai\ner, that he was
not willing to receive advice from him and thus fent him back
to the king. The mafter of the. ceremonies, having huled in his
well-meant intentions, now aiked his inajefty,. whether it washis
pkafure that the countefs ibould leave the room ? Being anfwered
in the affirmative, he informed the count in plain terms of
the king's orders, which were inllantly obeyed. The ambaflador
reported the whole affair to his court, and the confcquence was,
that for feveral years the emperor had iu> repreientative at Stockholm.
This mighty difference .between their Imperial and
Swedifh nuqefties was afterwards accommodated when GuRavus
travelled in Italy. . The Emperor Jofeph at Milan paid him a
vifit early in the morning, and waited in the antichamber till the
king was nfen. The firfl; words ojf. Jofeph, vvho had really a great
deal ofyyit, though little wift^, m wfU as a natural fprightlinefe
and franknefs^c^ difpohtion, wctc,. Well, you fee how littlo
I Rand on ceremony. After this difpute with the count and
countefs of Kaggyneck, the king of Sweden gave orders that, as
the
go j TRAVELS /i
the affembly at the Exchange was frequented by the royal family,
people above a certain rank ihould not appear there without
having been prcvioully prefented at court. -
. Though Stockholm be at prefenton the whole not one of the
Icaft expenfive towns m Europe, yet public cntertainnicnts are
very cheap. The firft fdacw at the play>houfes arc to be had for
half-a-crown. Admiifion to the grand aCembly at the Exchange
is at the fame price, including tea and coffee, and other refrefhments.
The entrance to the opera cofts about three fhillings and
fixpcnce. But the moft agreeable place for R-rangers to refbrt to,
is the club cd^led the Society, which has been before mentioned.
It is open at all times, and is the bell: regulated of all the clubs I
ever knew. The houfc is magnificent, and fiuniihed with great
tafie; neatnefs, elegance, .and good order reign throughout the
whole. At half after two oclock you find an excellent dinner
on the table ; of which, however, none can partake except members
of the club, and perfbns introduced by members, fo that you
always meet with good company. Mr. Martin, a Frenchman,
who keeps the houfe, has always the beft cooks in his fervice.
There arc few private families in Stockholm where you can dine
better than you do at this club for balf>a-crown : the wine is not
included in this charge. The houfc contains a billiard-table, a
great ball-room, a parlour where peojde meet for the purpofc of
converfation, a .reading-room, where you have Journals and hewfpapen
.of. all .countries ..and in all languages,, a cardamom, and a
<dinin.g-rooqi : all thefc apartments communicate with and form.
; a fiiit
:
THROUGH Sweden:
a fuit that exte!tids over the whole front of Ae building. When
the doors are open you overlook the whde at one view, which has
a plcafing effeft. In this fociety all the people of Stockholm are
mixed; both the nobility, gentry, and men of buiinels. Merr
chants are found at the fame card and dinner-table with officers
of the army and country gentlemen ; and there prevails, upon
the whole, a pretty tolerable air of equality. Many who are
houfc-kccpers, occafionally come to the fociety for the fake of the
company and the dinner, which are always excellent.
VoL. I. M CHAPTER
82 TRAVELS
CHAPTER V.
Charaihr of Gujiavns 111. King of SwedenReflexions on true
Glory, and the Virtues of a Patriot KingArts and Sciences^-
under GiijlavnsCharaXer of the Duke of Sudermania, and his
ConduX during the RegencyAnimal Magttetifm encouraged at
StockholmCharaXfr of the prefent King of SwedenState of
Religion ; the. Liberty of the Prefs ; and State of the Arts and
Sciences in this Reign.
I
''HE great objed of the late king of Sweden in all his adions
was to make a noife in the world. From the difplay of his
magnificence, the fhew of his abilities and talents, which he exhibited
in manyAiifferent ways, and from his fpirit of enterprize, one
would be tempted to imagine that there was fcarcely any thing
worth notice in Sweden that did not originate with him. He was
ambitious that his reign (hould be fignalized as the aera of arts and
fciences in Sweden ; as the age ofLewis XIV. was in France, Great
and elevated minds are fometimes feduced from the paths of true
glory, which confifts in the exertion of power and wifdom for the
moft benigpant purpofes, to the purfuits of mere pcrfonal ambition.
The glory ot Charles XII. of Sw'eden was ruin tp his country : fb is
that of moft heroic monarchs, It may be confidered as particular
and
TimOtrGH SWEpEN. 83
and extraordinary good fortune when the courage and talents of
warlike princes find an objeft worthy of their fire and genius.
Such, happily, was the deftiny of Guftavus Vala and Guftavus
Adolphus, both juftly denominated Great : fuch was that of the
Princes of Orange, whofc noble career was concluded by William
III. king of England. But perhaps had a caufe truly glorious
been w'anting to thofe princes, their natural love of pre-eminence
and fame might have taken a lefs favourable direftion. The wars
of Charlfs XII. were originally juft and honourable, but he carried
them beyond the point where they ought to have ended ; and
from a frantic paflion for military exploits, he ufed them for the
purpofc of gratifying his own inclination, and not as the means of
repelling aggreffion, and fccuring his country againft the injuftice
of its neighbours. How much more truly glorious would it have
been if he had ftopped in his career of vidlory, and given repofe
to his bleeding and exhaufted people ! The war in which Guftavus
III. engaged with the Ruftlans, and in which he certainly
difplaycd a magnanimity and pcrfonal intrepidity in no degree
inferior to thofe of his braveft anceftors, was provoked by the
intrigues and the overbearing pretenfions of th6 northern autocrafy.
But the experiment whether Guftavus, had it been in his
power, would not have preferred the gratification of his own ambition
to the folid intcrefts of his country, was never fairly tried.
A peace between the Ruflians and the Turks was unavoidably
followed by atif accommodation between the Ruffians and the
Swedes, by which the latter certainly obtained the greateft fliare
M 2 = of
84 TRAVELS
of glorJ^ Had England continued in her views, the king of
Sweden might have been tempted to proeced farther. The ruling
paffion, however, of Guftavus, his fecrct preference of his
own fame to the w'ell-being of his kingdom, was feen even in the
courlc of a few months after the pacification, of Wenlla : for he
tlicn engaged in vigorous preparations for an invafion of France,
than which the march of Charles XII. towards Mofeow in order
to dethrone the Czar, was not more romantic. There is not a
doubt but Guftavus III. would have difplayed on the frontier of
France all the courage and firmnefs of Charles XII. at Narva or at
Bender ; but how docs fuch proweft, even when moft fuccefsful,
fade and decay when compared with the well-dirc<fted and wclltempered
military fkill and bravery of a prince like Henry IV. of
France, who neither continued the war againft Auftria longer
than the fccurity of his crown and kingdom required, nor formed
any new defigns until he was compelled to do fo by the inlatiablc
ambition and rcftlcfi intrigues of his powerful antagonifts.* Perfona!
courage, though refpedablc, is no uncommon quality. In the
eye of found moral criticifm this virtue then only receives a bright
luftre when it is employed in a juft and honourable cauft. This
maxim indeed may be thought too obvious to be repeated ; but
common as it is in theory, it is by no means ib generally adopted
in pradicc as the good of mankind would require. It cannot
* At the time of his aflaflination he had prepared to take the field in perfoa
againlt the Aullrians, in which his ultimate objeft, there isevery rcalbn to believe,
was not only to fccure the independency of France, but the rights ofa|l
Ollier European powers.
therefore
THROUGH SWEDEN. S.?
therefore be amlis to inculcate it whenever an opportunity occurs.
Whether in the progrefs of civilization it will obtain greater influence
over the human mind, and fliew its blefled efFcdls in the
world to a greater degree than it hitherto has done, is an important
and interefting fubjed for fpeculation. Unfortunately for Sweden
it was not a Henry IV. but a Lewis XIV. that Guftavus made
the objeft of his emulation. Afpiring with incciTant ardour to an
illuftrious name among fovercigns, he was wont among his courtiers
to make not indirect comparifons between himfclf and that
monarch. Like him he fought to be furrounded with the Ipicndour
of literature and the arts, and fludied in all things to appear a great
and munificent king. Like his maternal uncle, Frederic the Great
of Pruflia, he w'as ambitious of being an author as well as a warrior.
Emulating the renown of Charles XII. he threatened like
him to involve his country in ruin. To - poets, muficians, and
painters, he extended a high degree of favour and protection. He
inflituted fbeieties, and patronized learning and fciencc : but all
this did not flow from a pure deflre to promote thefe great intcrefls
of the human Ipecies. He made thofe he protected the tools
of his ambition and vanity. They were in fiiCt little more than
echojes of his wifhes, and ferved as means of operating on the public
opinion, and predilpoflng and prq>Bring it for an acquiefcence
in various fehetoes which he had formed for the enlargement of
his own grandeur, and the gratification of hia ruling' paflions.
Not even the encoUtagement Which he ^ve to the fine arts was
founded on any thing clfe than political views and fclfifh motives.
His
S6 TRAVELS
His objcd was to aftonith the nation by (bows and other novelties,
to dazzle the people by the fplcndor of his magnificence, and to
engage them in purfuits of picafure, that they might be diverted
from reflections on their political fubjedion and degrar
dation. He was willing to root out every Icntiment of honour,
and to cxtinguifli every fpark of liberty, that he might bear fway
over a herd of flaves. When impartial hiftory lhall unfold the
various artifices by which this prince, who was unhappily for his
country, a man of un^qucftionablc genius, attained to the accomplifliment
of all his ends, we lhall be fatisfied that he was a greater
enemy to the Swcdifli nation than Charles XII. : for Charles left
behind him, in the minds of the Swede?, a fpirit of national pride
as well as pcrlbnal honour and lelf-cftccm, and a fatisfailory rccolle<
fl:ion of the noble exploits of their anceftors. Though reduced
by him to the lowcft ebb of fortune, they were animated by his
name to a love of glory. They were proud of having had fuch a
king, and wept over his memory. That of Guftavus III. is cheriflied
at this day by none but painters, muficians, comedians, and
particular favourites. As for the fcicnces, Guftavus 111. was fo
far from aflbrding them any fubftantial fupport, that on the contrary,
he treated them with neglcft, if not contempt; The magnificent
colledion of natural hiftory made by Linnaeus, was permitted
to be bought by an Englilbman, and carried to England.*
Many of the manuferipts of the incomparable Bergmann, for want
of encouragement in Sweden, were difpofed of and printed in
Germany.
.
It is in the polleflion of James Edward Smith, M. D. who reddes at Norwich.
THROUGH SWEDEN.* 8;
It would be no improper objeft for philolbphical inveftigation,
to trace the progrefs of fcience under the ^cign of Guftavus III,
and to compare this with the advancement it experienced during
tlie later periods of the ariftocratical lyftem, or rather the iyftem
of the limited monarchy. From fuch an enquiry it would probably
be made to appear, that neither the fplcndour of a throne,
nor the prOtedion of a prince are neceffary, or even favourable to
the promotion of fcience. It would be fecn that the moft effectual
patronage of learning is that which is derived from the public
at large; and that the fcienccs, like conjmcrce, are always the
worlle for the interference of government. They refcmble the
Icnfitivc plant, which fhrinks from the touch of the pureft and
moft delicate hand; but vegetates, flourilhes, and perfectly unfolds
itfelf when left alone. On entering fuperficially upon a comparifon
of the ftate of the fcienccs in the reign of Guftavus III. and during
the ariftbcracy, I do not find any naturalift that might 1 c
ranked with Linnseus, nor a mineralogift of fuch diftinguifhed
merit and reputation as Bergmann ; nor a linguift and antiquary
that could equal the celebrated Ibre ; not a mathematician to
cope with Klingcnftiema, the reputed inventor of achromatic
telcfcopes ; no chemift that could rival Wallerius ; not a phyfician
like Rofenftcin, nor fuch a proficient in the oriental languages
as Aurivelius. When w'c confider what the Swedifli nobility were
before the time of Guftavus III. and what they have been fince
his reign, we perceive at once a ftriking contraft. Guftavus,
though certainly pofTefTed of genius himfelf, had no body about
. him
as TRAVELS
him but infipid, and even ignorant and. weak men. The nobles
are now no longer acftuated by their former ^irit of emulation,
and a delirc to excel as leading men in the lemite. , filoq^encc,
with all that variety of knowledge and information which is nc-
(xlfary to the formation of a good orator, is ;np lon^r of any importance
to them. Application to the ftudy of general knowledge
and the improvement of the mind, is fufpended by the conilitution
of 1772 ; and lb long as that conftitution lafts^ it Is probable
that we lhall not hear of any great charafters among the
nobles of Sweden. The ancient lenate, it ,is true,, was corrupt,
venal, and ever ready to fell itfelf to the higheft bidder ; but ftill,
even in that very dilpolition to venality was contained an incentive
to the acquirement of qualities and accompliihments that
might lead to diftindion. France and Ruilia purchafed the men
of abilities in the fenatc at no fmall price j the others were overlooked
and difregarded.
Under the regency of (he Duke of, Sudermania, the views wd
lyftcm, and in a word, the Ipirit of the Swedilh gpYernment underwent
a complete revoluticw, Gullavus was the fworn enemy
of the French revolution, and was on the point,, as has been before
ohferyed, to join the arms of Syyeden tp thole of the general
confederacy ; and had he lived he. wpuld at leaft have made a
facrifice of fomc regiments, and added fome . millions of rijE^dollars
to that debt with which he had burthened the na~
tipn. The regent remained neutral, cultivated a connedi^ with
Franw,. and lludied oeconomy.i The coufequenet was* that the
difeount
THROUGH SWEDEN. 89
difcount of the paper*inoney of Sweden at Hamburgh, Riga,
and other places, fell from twenty-five to ten per cent. This
neutitality was calculated to reftore to the Swedes Ibme portion
of that national charaAer which Guftavus was at fi> great pains
to deftroy ; and that brave and honeft people were again allowed
to cherilh the idea, and make ufc of the word liberty without
gmng offence. The duke of Sudermania had the good fenfe to
form a juft cftimate of a nation which, in vindication of their
liberty, had at different times revolted againft tyrants ; and whofe
conduct in public aftairs had on the wbol& been flich as became
an enlightened people. Men of letters and fcience began to lift
up their voice, and their voice was heard. More freedom was
granted to the prefs ; and though the reftraints enforced by Guftavus
III. were formally abolifhed, yet writers were not permitted
to difeufs matters even of a political nature without fear, and to
alfert the truth without reftri^ion. This alteration Was very perceptible
in the trade of bookfelling, which was greatly encouraged
and augmented.
There is only one fubjed on which the Duke of Sudermaniahas
been charged with weaknefs, namely, Mefmerifm, or animal
maptetifm, the belief in which is thought by moft men of learning
and fcience, to be no proof of either good fenfe or an enlightened
underftanding. Several perfbns of diftindion at the
court of Sweden pafied feme time at Paris, when the' dodrines
and extravagancies ,of Mefmer wefe in vogue, arid liftened to by
every body; lliofe that were initiated in fhe myftcrics of Mcf-
Voj.. I. N mcr
ijo TRAVELS. -
mcr were obliged to pay him a hundred louis dors.ip.r t}icir admittance;
and as felf-lovc is extremely unwilling ever allow
that it has been impofed uppn,, they were inclinqd to g^yc
the iilunonsi for which they had paid fo confiderablc a lumy and
endeavoured not only to wwk themfclvcs into, a belief that they
bad really made a valuable acquiQtion of knowledge, Jb^t exerted
themfelves alfo to perfuadc others of the fame*. lienee the progrefs
of that abftrufe fciencc may be accounted for, which I have feen
performed, and which was nowhere more fucccfsful and rapid than
at Stockliohn. A certdn officer of the Swediffi army ,contrived to
attract the notice of the court, infomuch, that he was favoured
in hi^ promotion, by pretending to be particularly fofoeptible of
the effe^s animal < magnetifm and by counterfeiting ecftacics
and fleep-walking. When he was under the hands of the magncjtifeti
be would feign fomnolency, then awake as from prophetic
dreamSrand foretel future events. He prpphcficd his own death,
which was to takp. place in the battle he fhould be engaged
in. The credulous people in whofe prefence he uttered,this predidipn
lamented hjs jcrucl fete, v The courtiers luadc no oppofir
tion either to hia mUiUry adyaneex^ent o^ his progrefs in favour
at courtfjTxom he had but a Ihort time
to live, and would not interfere widi their intcrefts. To tbofe
wbom.he thought it worth his whdo to datter^ he predidlcd every
thing , was jgood. He alfm thq prime minifler, Cbppt
that he, fopuldvafccnd to heaven likp E^i^AH, wlthontl
tafting death. And fo ready, it i$ feid, was this good man to be-
Reve
m
THROU#t^S#Et)EN.
lieve Him, thafe imtxiediatd}* iettted his woHdfy eoncerfts, atid
never M^ht out iny where in hb earriage vvithout firft 6ying hb
prayelrir^ aha maHhg other preparations, (hat hh might-be ready
on a nrihutcVwafttihg to proceed on his celeftial journ^' - I will
not vouchi fdi' the truth of this report ; but it is ccrtatn> that theextreme
credulity of the chutt ih'^ as other things, cn-^
couraged itiipoftorS tS praftiie all^p'offibie tridcs and artifices. - A
young officer, who had not ahy friends ofrank or confequence ou
whom he might depend fbf promotion, had recdurle to the following
ftratagem for ihtcrefting the rtgelit in his fevour, and
raifing his own fortune. He went in the dead of the 'night to
the royal palace of Drottningholih; and wounded' himfeif irather
feverely in the arm with a pifihl : unmediately on the difoharge
of the piftol he gave theory of murder ! andperfuaded eveay body
that he had been fet upon by two rufihih^; > Who had miftaken>
him for the Duke of Suderiuhnia, whoiri ' they 1^ intended to
afTaffiiiate. The duke vOry inubh afiedted by this . incident and
at the fame time moved with'Cothpaffioh for the pOor man, who
he Imagined had foSFered Ttt^'hisIfixadFmad^him B inmonCy,
arid^immcdiately' gave hiin a' Jfonaraiffidn irt his ownregiroehtt'
' The fraud being after^irdl deteli^d the im|Kdh3i was
hootedi but ofjfie'army.
' The pirefeht king of'fiVredeW'hha'I^^tCd i' fiaodOvOf'Ccaidud.
and ftyle of manners- dhe^ opj^te^lio thofo his ui^, with
ifhbm he has ifovei 'lived mte thb Wholcof the
i^ncy
92 TRAVELS
regency the young king kept himfclf in a ftate of total
cancc. He never of liis own accord appeared before the people,
nor did any thing without alking leave of the duke: it fcemed as
if he confidered hinifelf as nobody duriirg his minority, for the
fble purpofe of making the regent feel the whole weight, of his
authority, when the period fhould arrive of excrcifing it in its
full extent. The leading features in this young princes charader,
as 1 conceive, are an ambition of governing without minifters, or
any interference that might let boundsvto his abfolutc fway, and
a iincere wifli at the ^me time to do as much good as lics within
the narrow Ipherc of his powers and knowledge. Under the in*
fluence of two priefts, and ftrongly imprefled with, an abhcorcnce
of what is called .the new phik>fopby, . he: has become a determined
Ingot, and hence isinffaKneed by a fupeiftition that tbrovvs
every poflible obftacle in the way of- progreflive im^mement.
Tkofe two priefis are Biihop Fleddin and Biihop M***. The
firft was the kings preceptor iq religious infiru^on : he is a malt
of no karning, but of an afpiring temper, and ready to make any
faermce to his private intereft. The. religion of Luther, under
bis aufpiees, degenerates iiito the. rites ai^ ceremonies of popery.
It is by his.advice that the >ldieis have Kceived orders on Good?
Eriday to turn the muzzles of thrit; fire-arms downwards, and to
have their drums flackened and deadenedr as.at BomO and in
offee? ,athlic comvtries. Biftiop;M**^, , in his earlier years .was
a friend to democracy: he was firft brought into notice by a
treatife
THROUGH. SWEDEN. 93
trcatifc in fktfont of feat form of goyernracntj, entitled, De Demo^
atia Optimo R^imine.* He embraced the ecclefiaftical profefeon
merely-ffom motives of intereft ; but afterwarda became a
zealous Rickler for fee moil abfurd tenets of the gtdS^ foperftition,
whether it' be that he has in reality become a convert to
what he at firft merely belived ex officio ; or/ as fome people are
inclined . to think, from hypOcriiy. He' has at once fignalized his
cle^cal fervor, and difplayed bis own chm^ler by a D^rra/fo on
the Power and Influence of the Devil on the Human Body. Ht proves
in this booh, by evidence amounUhg, as he fays, to mathematical
dcraonilration, not only the exiilence of fee- devil add his operations
on the human mind and body, but has been ib foccefsful in
his enquiries into the fubjedl, as to diftinguiih the different forts of
devils, and to afeertain the means proper for putting them to Sight.
He has difeovered that the diah(dus crinitus, or hairy devil, may be
routed by a plant called ^diroM^4/fr/(quadrangu]ar
St. Johns wort). Thd is ariothtt anecdote which may ferve
to throw feme light upoft fee prefent fpirit ofrcdigioir in Sweden.
Asfar ddwri as the reign' of tbe late king a CCremotiy' prevailed',
which was very much*' at variance With the advanecd fene of
knowledge, and with comme^'fonfo,.
and fummoning the devil tO- depart frofe'-tho b^y of an infant
in fee rite in fee kite king's
fe%tr,atiothi^was
* Defmocracy the beff form of government.
54 TRAVELS
but on the birth of the prefent kings fon the old mode of exorcifm
was revived ; and the devil was exprefsly ordered to quit the
body of the prefent prince royal.
The liberty of the prefs in Sweden at the prefent moment is
entirely fubdued; the reign of ignorance and bigotry gains
ground, and will perhaps foon be as unliniitcd, and produce the
lame difmal gloom as now prevails in Spain and Portugal, f^ftavus
111. while he publicly encouraged the freedom of the p/lfs,
privately bound it in fetters. He liked to be j^ought a liberal
and philofbphic prince ; and he did not appamntly tefirain authors
from writing whatever they pleafed : but fhll they were expoled
to many unknown confequences, if they happened to publifh any
thing ofieniive to the court. At prelent a cenforial commiffion is
eftablifhed, which mutilates works, or fupprehes them altogether
at pleafure : and what is Hilt worfe, and unheard of in any other
countiy, when the cenlbrs have palTed a work, its publication may
be prohibited by the king afterwards. An inliance of this kind
happened during my flay at Stockholm, in the cafe of a work,
entitled, " Thoughts on the Refloration of the Old Monarchy
in France." After this flatenieht of fafls^ it will riot be difficult
to conjeAure the fituation of the feiences arid of pbilofophy
in a country where fuch meaftires are puHtied by the government.
The contrail in thefe refpedls between Sweden and O^mmk, is
flrongly marked by the nXimber of joumafs and other periodical
publications ifiuing from the prefs annually in the two countries.
In Denmark I reckoned up more than twehty ; but as fo the
neighbourii^
THROtJQH 95
neighbouring kingdom, I could i^ever find in the capital, nor in
all Sweden, more than,two. The periodical publications of tknmark
are fraught with the moft liberal opinions on every fubjcS.
In Sweden publications are Hopped without the allegation of any
teaibn whatever, or on pretences the mod frivolous. The Journal,
entitled, " Memoirs ofthe Society for the Improvement of Know-
ledge moft ufeful to the generality of Citizens," digefted and
publifhed by a ibciety of philanthropic ii^dividuals, which was
held in great eftimation by the public, was put an end to by the
king : and neither the members of the fociety, nor the editors
of the journal were, ever able to obtain from his na^efty any
account of the caule_of its fuppreffion. Anotherjournal, called
Extvapojien, (nearly anfwering to the word Courier) was filesnced
on account of a dialogue which it contained between Xyutber
and the Devil, in whi^'h the latter appeared to be too good a la>,
gician. In 1798 a royal edid was .iflued, ordering that noperiodical
writings whateyer Ihould be publifted without expreft
permiftion^from the king. /IThe only two works of the kind that
at prefent cqme out in Sweden areJournal for Swedifh literature,
and ajColleAlpn of mi^llaneous fobjeds for reading.* The
firft b only a catido^e^pf Swedi& books, with critical remarks.
The editor is 1^. SUye^oIpe, a mm of confid^ble laming,
and oita ver^ la^rical tui:^* fecund is a '>york written in a
fine ftyle and maimer, md contains iQany beautiful pieo^ in literature
96 TRAVELS
rature and belles-lettres, as well as philoibphical eflays, very free
and bold for the prefent times and circumftances. In this journal
the principal writers are, Mr. Herfpatre, Mr. Leopold, and Mr.
Lehnberg. It would have been iuppreiTed on more than one occalion,
if thofe three gentlemen' had not polTefled coniiderable
credit at court, as well as influence with the cenfbrs.
CHPATER
THROUGH SWIDEN.

97
CHAPTER VI.
Remarks on Academies or lernned SocietiesThofe ^abjyked hy
Lewis XIV, in FranceFffeSi of Opinions and theoretical Prhieiples
upon the fate of NationsHow far the public Opinion
may be direSled or influenced by teamed SocietiesMore of the
Chara6ieriftics of theft Societies difplayedAcademy of Belles-
Lettres at StockholmMembers of this AcademyThe Swedilh
Academy, or the Eighteen ; its Proceedings, Prizes, &c.Members
of the Swediflt AcademyAccount offome Swedifh Poets,
among whom is mentioned Mr. Torild, an Admirer and Imitator
of OJflan.
nr^HE fafliibn of patronizing literature and fci'ence, in the beginning
of the fixteenth century, when a matrimonial allianice
ended between the hou/e of Medici' and that of Bourbon,
was imported into France from Italy. Academies for the cultiva*
tion of the arts and fciences were indituted eatly in the reign of
Lews XIV, and nobly endowed with pebuniaiy funds, as well asprivileges
and hotiours. The vanity of the king, the foie motive
of his liberality, wasabundantly gratified; for nothing could exceed
the ob&cj^ious adulation of t^ academicians. They onceiTot.
1.
" O hack
93 IRAVELS
had it ill contemplation to propofc a prize for the heft treatife on
the queftion, U/ which of all his virtues was his majefty moft
honourably diftinguiflied ? This aft of fervility, however,
Lewis himfclf, vain as he was, had the good fenfe to prevent
;
hut this meannefs of the academicians was not incompatible with
pride on their part. They exhibited, in their conduft, a ftrange
mixture of obl'cquioufnds to the court, and fclf-importancc and
arrogance in their deportment towards their fellow-fubjefts. Adniillion
to the academies, particularly the grand Academie Fran-
%
now w'as made an objeft of ambition. Pbilofophy, or rather
perhaps the reputation of being a philoibpher, became the falhion
of the day. Few were qualified to be ftatefmen, or bold the principal
places in the gift of the crown ; but all could be, or pretend
to be, fcholars and philofophers. Pbilofophy, combined with literature,
but tinftured with human weaknefs, pleafed vanity, confided
difappointment, and employed fometimes as a vehicle of cenfurc,
ferved as an inftrument of revenge. The number of philoibphcts
daily iricrcafed. That pbilofophy which, under various
forms, and in diverfe ways, had influenced for fome time the
public councils, feized at laft the helm of the French monarchy
;
and thus the folly of Lewis XIV. blindly laboured for the overthrow
of the Bourbons.
There is nothing more curious in a philofbphical, or more important
in a political point of view, than to tr^e the mutual influence
of events on opinions, and opinion^ on events. Their
aftion and re-aftion on one another, the degree and manner in
which
THROUGH SWEDEN. 99
which various tenets and habits of thinking affed the condud of
individuals, it is impoffible to afcertain, nor, if it were pofliblc,
would it be worth while to enquire ; but the connexion between
creeds and the condud of princes, between public opinion, public
fpirit,1ind the fate of nations, .is a matter of equal certainty, curiofity
and Importance. In every age and country a preference is
given to fome particular ftudy, which not only fupplants more or
Icfs other purfuits, but in a certain degree always interferes with,
and in fome inftanccs even ufurps the affairs of government. In
the carlieft ftages of fociety the minds of men arc debafed by the
grofleft fuperftition. The principal concerns of /avages and barbarians
are managed by conjurors,* Obi-mcn,f necromancers, and
wizards. Even after nations have fomewhat advanced in civilization,
the moft ufcful as well as the nobleft talents, in the general
efteem, are thofe of divination ; and in every kingdom and
every government hitherto cftabliflied, there has been, at lead at
one period, an alliance between church and date. In the fird
deps towards fcience, men are amuied with the pretenfions of
natural magic and the prediftions of adrology. Religion, in the
common ptogreffiort of human affairs, is taken out of the hands
of mere fuperdition, divination explained by the principles of mctaphyfics,
and adjuded by the rules of logic. The Veda is interpreted
by metaphyfical Brahmins, and the Koran fey Mahomedan
doflors not Icfs difctle affd ffifcerning. 'The doftridcs of the
;

* As amopg the Tndlaaj ui

f As in Africa, and among the African flavcs In the Weft Indies.
. O 2 ManichacansICO
TRAVELS '
Manichans and Gnofties, as well as'thdfc of Plato, 'entered early
into the creeds of Chriftians. Ariftotle, and other philolbphers,
diredled the fchoolmen; the ichOOlmen the church, and the
church for fifteen hundred yca the ftate/ and in repeated inftances
the motions of armies. Mighty monarchs maflatred or
exterminated Neftorians, Arians, Albigehfes, Waldenfes, Jews,
Moors, Hiogonots, and Prefibyterians.- The proteftant and the
catholic faith divided Europe ; and difputcs about libertyand ncceflity
among the Protcftants themlelvcs were tinged with blood.
In the times of Bofe^tnus and Abelard, kings interfered Iti the dif<
pute between .the Nomindifts and ihe Bealifts; ih argtiment not
yet terminated. The medical World at one period was divided
between the difciples of^Salen at^ thofe of ParaceMus. Thofe of
the two former, from the pride of polTeBion, claimed Bill an cxclufive
right to the public ear, and obtained from the court of
Paris an .inhibition againB thofe Of the latter ; though this, like
other decrees, gave way in time to the progreB Of opinion. It
appears at firft fight Brangci but nevertheleis Aotbmg is more certain,
than- that the amirs' of .nations may be influenced, as we
have juft feen in the cafeof France, by inftitutions for the ftndy
of mathematics and bclle>lettres.' ^
Whotiver reflefts on the ufual effetJ of literature itad feience to
awaken the genius of liberty, by exOiting a Ijsirit of free difetd'-
fion on alLfubjefts, by preferving the memory of the {uicient republics,
by quickening the perception of right Ohd ^long, and
ymdicatiqg the dignityof human nature, will be apt to confider
the
THROUGH SWEDEN. ,oi
the introdudion of the arts and fciencesinto dclpotic governments
as a political incongraity; imlcfs, indeed, it be the intention of the
prince to ameliorate the condition of the people, and raife them
gradually to a participation of political power, in proportion to
their advancenoent in knowledge. Such, perhaps, was the intention
of Peter the Great, czar of Mufeovy, when he introduced
arts and fciences into his valt barbarian empire; an intention
which probably he conceived in his comprehenfive mind, as likely
to be accomplilhed either by himfelf or his fucceilors. Af, the
fame time it was certainly a lingular ipei^acle to fee that prince
caning his courtiers, and inviting his lubjedls to walk with him
into the temple of the Mufes and of Apollo. But what lhall we
lay of Frederic II. of PruHia patronizing ; French literature and
manners, and encouraging philolbphy, arid even infidelity i And
what of the Emperor, Jofeph II. overturning religious eftablilhments
and promoting free difcullion with'one hand,while he fubverted
the privileges of ^hls fubjedls with the other The obvious
conclufion is, that. thefe imd other defpotic princes eidier were
not at bottom: fmeere frienda to the progrefs of knowledge, or
that they did not forelee its political conlequeaces. Nothing appears
more monllrous and ablurd, than to &e Gultavos III. tramplingon
thetprivileges of the Swedilh nation one year, and inftltpting
academies^tho ne;at ; bin. On. n tdoict ekaminatbn of the
conduit oC the Sw^e^ we iliid^^ii that b was at 1U1: not lb
inconfil^ent s^ that lof the {Qeripan princes:juft mentioned. His
bye of litemture and
fcicnce
108 TRAVELS
fciet^lc aftecfled, unnatural, and guarded. It was like the farce aScd
by Catharine II. when Ihe ordered the body of Peter III. emperor
of Ruflia, to be expofed on a platform in front of the palace, for
the infpedion of medical men and all the world, while ccntinels
W'crc placed at the different avenues for driving back any one who
fhould have the curiofity and the boldnefs to approach it.
It has been obferved of academics, that they are of ufe only fo
long as the encouragement they hold out is nccefl'ary to the prefervation
and progrefs of fciencc. In times of ignorance, and
abounding in prejudice, it has beeti faid, fuch focietics are ufcful
as a barrier againft mountebanks and other impoftors, and for
maintaining a due influence and authority over public opinion.
But this influence and authority is the very thing to be dreaded.
Governments dired: the academics, and the academies the people;
and thus the fcicnces bend under defpotifm : and as they are obedient
to the nod, fo they imitate the ways and manners of courts.
They become fond of pomp and Ihew, and more defirous of
adorning their focieties with men of titles and rank than with
thofc o( genius and learning. A remarkable inftance of this propenfity,
1 have heard, happened within the memory of the prefent
generation, where the Prefident of an illufirious fociety in Europe
had a throne erefled for himfelf in place of the iifual chair,
with adjacent feats a little lower, for foreign ambafladors and other
perfonages-of great difHndlion, fomc on his right hand and others
on his left. ,
The Jfcademy of Belies-Letfres at Stockholm> having no other
fund
THROUGH SWEDEN. 103
fund for the prizes than the generofity of the queen dowager, hy
whom it was inftituted, would have been diflblved at her death,
if her fon Guftavus III. had not taken it under his protection.
He not only furnilhcd it with a fund for various prizes every year,
but alfo for pcnfions to fevcral of the members. The province of
this academy was extended by the king to foreign literature, Egyptian,
Greek and Roman antiquities, the foicnee of emblems, and
the fuperintendancy over medals, inferiptions, and all publie monuments
in the kingdom. The number of meri^bers is fixed at
fitty: fixteen foreign, fourteen honorary, tnid twenty ordinary
members ; the laft named are protelTed men of letters. In the
firft mentioned clafs I find the names of the Cardinal de Bernis,
French ambaflador at Rome before and at the time of the French
revolution, in the years 1780 and 1 790 ; the Duke of Nivernois
P. F. Suhm, w'ho has lately publifhed large collections, written in
Latin, of the Scandinavian antiquities ; and Mr. Fallas, formerly
profdTor in the Imperial academy at Peterfburg. In the lift of
honorary members are to be found Count Frederic Sparre, chancellor
of the kingdom. This is the fame gentleman who, as was
laid, believed that he fhould mount up to heaven like Elijah, a cir-.
cumftance which places his acatenffs. and intelligence in an unfavourable
light. He is th^ fubJeCt of no bad, though only a punning
epigram, comprifed in four Swedifhwcrfcs. There is a box in the
opera-houfe called in which.Count Sparre
fometimes fat. It 4 on this point that the epigram turm. Ifs
import is this h^thematiciatui have affumed as a maxim, that
the
104 TRAVELS
the whole is greater than a part ; but Count Sparre, fcated in an
oxs eye, demonftrates that a part may be greater than the whole.
His excellency Count Oxenftierna, fenator, prime miniller. See,
known in the annals of northern literature by his eulogium on
Guftavus III. bcfides an Ode on Hope, and a poem entitled Skorden
(harveft), two pieces of great merit,. Roxana, a comedy, and:
fevcral fnjaller publicatiwis ; his excellency Count Duben, fenator,
minifter of Rate, and commander of the order of Seraphim, diftinguilhed
for hi^ knowledge of drawings, medals and emblems
;
Dr. Von Troil, archMlhop of Uplala, author of a Voyage to Iceland
(the omithologifts, to pay him a compliment, have ebriftened
a bird after his name, uria tmli) ; Baron Lguvuhad ; Baron
Adlercrantz ; Mr. Mat. Benzelftierna ; . Baron M. Hamel, a very
rich landed proprietor, and a lover of the bcUes-lcttrcs ; Count N..
Gylenftolpe; Count C. Gyllemborg, knight of the polar ilar; he
wrote a tolerable epic poem called Taget of ver Balt (the PalTage
of the Belt) by Charles X., a volume of fables,, fome of them of
great merit, and poems, the moft diftinguilhed of which is the
Seafons ; Mr. Steenpiper, who has tranllatcd Tacitus, a man of
great talents; and Dr. Olave Cellius, bilhop of Lund, author ofa
Hiftory of Guftavus Vafa, and his Ion Eric ,X1V.
The ordinary members of the academy for belles-lettres, inferiptions,
antiquities, &c. are, Mr. Lillie Stralc, well acquainted with
Englifl) and French literature ; Mr. Bolin, author of a Hiftoiy of
the Swcdilh people down to the reign of Quftavus Vafa; Mr.
Elers, a poet ; Mr. Schoenberg, hifioriographer of the kingdom
;
Mr.
raROUCH SWEDEN. 105
Mr. Melandcrhtclm, a mathematician; Mr. Rofenftcin, formerly
preceptor to the king, and fccrctary of the Sw'cdifli academy ; Mr.
B. Femcr, preceptor to Gmllavus III. when prince royal of
Sweden; Mr. John Van Angenftroem, author of a Guide to the
Mines for the ufe of travellers (he has now given up the Icicnces,
and betaken himfelf wholly to agriculture) ; Mr. C. J. Strand,
keeper of the archives Of the kingdom ; Mr. G. Adlerbeth, antiquarian
of the kingdom, and perpetual lecrctary to the academy
of belles-lettres (he publilhed fbme wretched tragedies) ; Mr. A. F.
Riflcl, lately librarian to his msyeRy, a poet, and tranflator of Icvcral
fpeeches in Salluft; Mr. J. H. Liden, profcflbr of hiftoiy
;
Mr. J. Murrberg, mafter of the cathedral fchool of Stockholm,
an elegant hiftorian (he.wrote an account of Chriftians relidencc
at Stockholm in 1520); Mr. J. Hallehberg, hiftorio^pher of
the kingdom ; Mr. C. 'J. Nordin, dean and hiftoribgrapher of the
royal orders ; he has written, in the Memoirs of the Academy,
the Lives of Illuftrious Swedes ; Mr. F. J. Neikter, profeiTor of
eloquence at Upfala ; Mr. Porthan, profcflbr of eloquence in the
univerfity of Abb ; Mr. Everhand, profcflbr of the oriental languages.
The regulations of this academy are much the fame with thofe
of the academy of inicriptions and belles-lettires at Paris. The
new academy at Stockholm for the cultivation of the Swediih
language, is likewife formed liearly oh the model of iin .Academe
Wanfoi/e, except that the number of the members of the Swcdifli
academy is only eighteen thread of fdri^. ' TKeSvbedi/h Academy, or,
VoL. I. P as
TRAVELS 106
us it is othcrwifc called, the Eighteen, was inftituted by Guftavus III.
in 1788. Of this academy it maybe faid in general, that in*
Head of fccking, it would be fought after ; inftcad of encouraging
geniufes formed by nature, its aim and objed is to create them :
and certainly it mull be owned that it is a nobler atchievement to
make fomething out of nothing, than to finilh a work after it is
begun. It holds out prizes, it is true ; but it is neceflary to be in
favour with Ibmc of the members in order to obtain one. The
merit of a compolition alone is not fufficient to enfure it fucce^
;
powerful recommendations and good management and addrels
arc required. The members of the academy know beforehand
who is to gain the prize, becaufe this is a matter that depends on
their own will. They even lend a hand to the favourite candidate
for the improvement of his elTay, and keep up a corrclpondence
with him upon the fubjeft. It is not fo much the judgment,
as the inclination of the academy, that decides. Above all
things, a candidate for the prize mull take good care not to drop
a hint of the time employed on his treadfe. An author for whom
the academy bad defined the lirll prize, inadvertently mentioned
in converfation that he had dnilhed his ellay in no longer a period
than eight days : the confequence was, that he loll the honour he
would othcrwifc have obtained. During my abode at Stockholm,
the prize was decreed in favour of a compofition entitled, ** A
Poem to Melpomene, or on the dramatic Art containing
Ibme common place obfervations, expreCed in high founding
terms, and prailing different theatrical pieces, among which there
was
THROUGH SWEDEN; ja;
was not one German produdion fo much as mentioned, not even
Emilia Galotti. I was greatly furprifed to find that hot the
fmallcft notice was taken of Lefling, a name that it would feem
difficult, on the fubjed of the drama, not to recoiled with high
efteem. But afterwards the myftcry came out. I was informed
that the Swedilh academicians profefled a contempt for German
literature ; and that to entertain and own any rcfped for it, was
the lure way to incur dilplcafure. One might apply to thefc
Swedifli what Roufleau laid to the academicians of Paris

In your own imaginations you give Icfibas to and form the tallc
of all France : but three fourtlis of the people of France do not
fo much as know of your exiftencefor they leem to be actuated
by the fame fort of vanity. They flatter themfclvcs that
their partiality will remain unobferved, and their dccifions pafs
current from the mere weight of their name. This is probably
too much the calc
;
yet I am well alTured, and it refleds no fmall
degree of honour on the Swedilh nation, that pieces reeded by
the academy arc nevcrthclefs often read and approved of throughout
the provinces.
The members of the Swedilh academy arc. Count Oxenftierna,
mentioned among the members of the academy of belles lettres
;
Count Gylleitborg, mentioned above; Count Glafi Fleming.
When Clafs Fleming took his feat among the Swedilh academicians,
a wag oblcrvcd, that thert number amounted now to juft
170. How lb ? it wasaftccd., Becaufe, replied he,' when a cypher,
is added to the number 17, fhe amount is 170.
io8 travels
C. J. Leopold, the Voltaire of Sweden. He has written many
things, and all of them of great naerit. Hjsbeft work is his tragedy
of Oden. He is an adept in feveral .branches of literature.
In the department of belles-lettres he is a defpot, carrying his
praife or ccnfiirc to the higheft extravagance. Leopold is at prefent
fecrctary to his m^efty, and librarian.
Mr. Blom, a fenator of Stockholm, who obtained the fccond
prize through the favour of Mr, Leopold. , On this occafion a
poem was written in the Swediih language, the title of which
being interpreted, is, An Epiftle in Vcrle to. tbofe who arc am*
** bitious of immortal Fame.
Nils Sjpberg, who gained the prize of the academy feveral times.
Nils Von Rofenftein; Adlerbeth; andMurrberg. Allthrcebclonging
to the academy of belles-lettres.
Dr. Von Wingard, bilhop of Gh>thenburg. The bilhop has
the reputation of being a very eloquent and pathetic preacher
:
his funeral lermon on the late queen dowager, and his difcourle
at the opening of the diet, 1 786, are flill Ipoken of with great encomiums.
Mr. Lobeth, one of the mod adive managers of the theatre
;
Mr. Edclkranz, author of an Elegy on the death of the queen
dowager, mother of Gufliavus III. who rewarded him with a
place in the academy. An amateur of natmal philofophy : he
gave the plm of the tdiegraph in Sweden.
Mr. Nordin, above mentioned! Mr. Silverftolj^, who more
than once gained the prize of the academy for doquence and
poetry
;
THROUGH SWEDEN. 109
poetry; Mr. Ramel, the rich member of the acsKlcmy of belles>
lettreS) already noticed; Mr. Lehnbcrg, a clergyman, who fevcral
times gained the prize ; an imitator of the French poet Thomas

his thoughts arc unnatural and far-fetched, his ftylc turgid and
bombaftic; Mr. Tingftadius, profeflbr of Upfala, celebrated in the
north for his tranllation of the Pfalms, the book of Job, and other
poetical portions of the Icripturcs; Mr. Gyllenftolpcthis man
has not written any thing ; and it is commonly laid in Stockholm,
that it is for this reafbn that the Swedifh academicians, out of
gratitude, have admitted him into their number.
Befides the poets who are members either of the Swedilh academy,
or that for the cultivation of languages, antiquities, and literary
tdentsin general, there are feveral others of more celebrity,
or much more popular with the Swedifh nation, than moll of the
poetical academicians, or rather academical poets. Mr. Lidners
poem on the death of the'Countels of Spallara endeavouring to
fave her child out of the flames, and that on the lail judgment,
abound in fublime ideas and pathetic lentimenfs. Mr. Torild
has written a poem on the paflions, which difplays an intimate
acquaintance with the human mind, as well as a fine and lively
imagination ; yet in myjudgment it will not bear a companionwith
the ode of the Englilh poet G}llins, where the nicell oblervations
on the'eondud of the human heart and mind, when in a
Hate of various emotion, are poured forth in allrain of the moll
charming novelty.. Though the name of Collins in his own
country be mentioned' with relped and approbation, yet is his
fame.
I to TRAVELS
fame there, for ought that I could learn, far inferior to what is
due, and will no doubt one day be paid to his merit. His poem
on the death of Thomfon may be conlidered as the moil; elegant
piece of criticifm, and the mo(l; feelihg wd tender elegy that was
ever written by one poet on another. Collins, far fuperior to that
jealouly and envy which tamilhes the minds of minor poets among
his countrymen, and from which even Pope, that elegant verfifier,
is by no means exempt, felt what he wrote, and Ihewed himfelf
at once a good and great man, and a pathetic and fublime poet.
But I ftray from Scahdinavia, to which I return. Mr. Torild is
not more diftinguifhed by his poetical compofitions than by his
enthufiaftic admiration of Oliian. All kinds of poetry not in
the ftyle of Oflian he utterly defpifes. It is necdlefs after this ob>
fervation to mention that his own poems are very much written
in that ftyle. There is nothing more natural than for a Scandi*
navian to have a prediledion and partiality for Oflian : the valour,
the virtues, and the extenfive power and dominion of their
princes being celebrated in the fongs of that poet.
CHAPTER
THROUGH SWEDEN. Ill
CHAPTER Vlir.
The Academy of Sciencet at StockholmThe Claffes htto which it it
dividedSome Remarh on the Diftribution and Arrangement of
the SciencesAhufe that prevails in admitting as Members of Literary
Societies Perfons not properly qualifiedA Lifi ofthe Members
of the Academy of Sciences at Stocihblm, with Obfervations
on their IfCitings and literary CharaSlerAcademy ofSciences at
Upfala ; Royal Society of Sciences and Belles-Lettres at Gotheishurgh
; Society at Lund ; and other Societies or AcademiesColleSlion
of Models and Machines at StockhohnHijpofition of the
Swedesfor the Arts and SciencesTheir National CbaraSier.
I
''HE royal academy of fciences at Stockholm was founded In
173Q. It confifts of a hundred members that are natives
of Sweden, and a confiderable number of allbciatcs of foreign na>
tions. Their Memoirs are publilhed in the Swedifo language at
the end of every three months. A new prefident is cholen halfyearly.
There are two perpetual fecretaries; no honorary or
merely nominal and ufclcfs members. The only funds of this fociety
are the profits ariling from the monopoly ofalmanacks, which
profits amounted in the year 1800 to two thdufand rix dollars.
The obfervatory and the cabinet of naitural hiftoiTiwith the houfe
112 TRAVELS
in which it is contained, belong to the academy. The former fuperintendant
of the cabinet, Mr. Sparmann, has been let afidc,
and fuccccded by Dr. Quenzel, a young man of great induftiy,
to whom the academy are indebted for the new order in which
the cabinet, that was formerly in the utmoll: confufion, is now arranged.
Dr. Quenzd is a confidcrablc proficient in natural hiftory,
and the academy could not have made chmee of a more
proper perfon for undertaking that charge.
In 1790 the academy was divided into (even different dalles,
and a certain number of members was alfigned to each. This
divifion of the fciences was indeed a feverc trial of the abilities of
the academicians. In order to make fuch a diftribution with
phllofophical precifion, it would have been neceffary either to deduce
the genealogy ofall the fciences and correlponding arts, from
the parental ffock of common principles in the human mind ; or
in Ibme other way to have made an accurate, though gmcral
olallification of the various objedb of truth or knowledge.
The great Lord Bacon ^rmed a plan in his book Z>e Augmentis
Sclentiarum, of all the arts and fciences of which man is capable,
by referring them to the leading powers of $hc mind ; memory,
judgment, and imagination. This plan has been followed almoll;
by every author that has come after him, cvcii by the writers of
th,? French Eheydopaedia. But thelc gentlemen have declared,
with great candour arid judgment, that they experienced an embailrafifment
in the arrangement of their liil^e^, in proportion to
the latitude flowed of arbiri'aiy choice; as the different branches
of
THROUOH SWEDEN: 113
of knowledge might be referred either to the ISeings which they
have for their objects, or to the different faculties of the foul.
Difficulties attend cither plan. The former involves us in an
cndlcfs labyrinth, not only ofgenera and J^cies, and thefe too the
mere work of the human mind; but of individual objeds not to be
reduced with precifion to any clafs or mutual correfpondence
:
the latter implies that latitude of arbitrary choice, which the
French encyclopaedifts have juflly remarked.
The fcientific academicians of Stockholm have not adopted
either of thefe plans, but ffruck out a nev\f one of their own, as is
to be perceived in the following claffiiication, which feems to reff
principally on the myftical number feven. The firft clafs have
for the fubjeft of their inquiries, (economy general and rural This
clafs is compofed of fifteen members. Thefecond, confifting alfb
of fifteen members, has for its objcift, commerce and tlu mechanical
arts. The third clafs, in number alfb fifteen, exterior phyfics and
natural hiflory. The fourth daft, likewife fifteen, interior phyfics
and natural philof^iy. The fifth daft, in number eighteen, ma^
thema^. The fixtli daft,, fifteen in number, medicine. The feventh
and laft daft, confifting of twelve members, is configned to
lelles-lettres, the hiflory of the world, languages, wcA other ftudies
ufeful or agreeable..
It is evi^nt that the whole of this arrangement is charafterized
by aa air of inaceur^, whin^icality and confuflon. The
laft daft is plainly contrived as a rbceptade for the various fubjeds
ofinyeftigaUoii not proVi4^d for in any of the former divifiot..
VoL.I. ^ / In
TRAVELS
In this arrangement the fame objeds arc prefented under different
names, while other departments of fcicncc are wholly omitted.
What is the diftiniflion between natural hiftory and exterior phyfics
? and between interior phyfics and experimental philofophy ?
Why is commerce detached from general oeconomy ? and why is
there no mention whatever made of moral philofophy ? General
ecconomy itfelf, in a comprchenfive view of things, falls under the
head of moral philofophy. In this part of the plan there is fomcthing
extremely unphilofbphical and abfurd. I do not recoiled
m inftance of fuch glaring negleft of the moft important branch
of philofophy, except one, namely, that in a famous univerfity of
England the fchola philojhphia tnoraUs is appropriated to the fblc
purpofc of lodging the Arundelian marbles, and other fculptures
and ftatues. Finally, why fet apart one dais of the academicians
for the improvement of hiftory and the belles-lettres, when there
was already an academy devoted to thole particular purpofes
;
and when the implied in the title of the academy is not literature
but fciencel It has been remarked that the grandeft
ftrokes of policy have been ftruck, and the moft beneficial iniprovements
in political afSiits effe^Scd by rfie counfcls and management
not of diplomatifts and lawyers, or profeffional men of
any kind, but by men of the world, generid fbhblars, and what arc
cornmonly called liberdly educated getitiemen. In the fame way
merr of libftal apd unbiallcd minds rniglit afford better advice for
reflating learned focictlcs, fchools, arid univcriitics, thaii profound
ifcholars, whole views are narrowed by the influence of
dantzy.-
THROUGH SWEDEN. * 115
dantry. Thcfe never think of changing their own forms : nature,
they fancy; and the courfc of human affairs ought to bend to
their fornjs and inftitutions; and they would deem it below their
dignity to fubmit their eftablilhed notions to experiment and obfervation.
The plan of the national inftitutc of France is too liberal,
comprehenfive uid grand, to be the work of fchoolmen.
The diviilons of feience and fcicntifical purfuits in the academy
at Stockholm appear to have been made with a view to give general
fatistadion, and to open a door for the reception of all men
who Ihould be of confequence enough to add lufbre to the fociety
by their rank, or rich enough to bribe, or mean enough to gain
the members by flatteries. There is not a gentleman of landed
eftatc who may not become a member of the firfl: clafs, nor a
merchant who has not very plaufible pretcnfions to be chofen into
the fccond ; every entomologift and ornithologift, every collcdor
of flihes or infeds, may belong to the third pr fourth dais. By
various diviiions and fubdiviflons of the department of mathematics,
any clerk or Ample arithmetician, any confirudor of triangles
pr compiler of almtunacks, might have been introduced into the
fifth clais, if this abide had not been refided by Mr. Mclander-
-^ielm and other gentlemen of true philolbpbical diferimination.
Thus the feyenth clafs is open to every coj^po&r of ballads, novels,
madrigals, vocabularies and gnun^^..,, Tfie great number which
compote this academy hasb^ !^e AdjleA pf rixych boaR
in |weden. It tbould bo^ever be ebnddered that the more co-
, Q2 pious
TRAVELS ii<3
pious the number of academicians, the more the chanee and pro*
bability is incrcafcd of their admitting improper perfons for their
atTociates. Weak and ignorant men, once received, are as proud
(and generally more fb) of the title of academicians as men who,
by their talents and abilities, have rifen to that honour; and
while they contribute nothing to the fiock of knowledge, they
perplex and confound, 'Ey the capricioufnefs of their votes, the beft
laid plans 'for its enlargement. The number of one hundred is
much too great for a cranti^ in wdiidi literature -and fpience have
made but a very limited progrefs. If there were only fifty aAing
members, and fifty honorary, that is members'without votes in the
affiiirs of the academy, there would be lefs room for intrigue and
faftien, their proceedings would be more philpfophtcal, and their
indufby receive a happier direi^n. At prefent a confiderable
portion -ofthm fellows confifts of young men without a fufficient
acquaintancewith literature and fcience for fupporting the name
of academicians. ^ For the acqiurement ofthis title nothing more
is requifite, than to be rich and to make preftnts to the acadenry:
Thus I know that, gentlemen have been chofen wbofe only pretenfion
was that being odled a banker, or infpeftor of the
mines. I was acquainted with Ibme yottug men, the Ions of
members, not -defident in litaatuie,'but about(ding alfo in wealth,
who; were clefted merdy for the merits of their fathers. Others
have ^me. findd my obfervafion, who, having made h voyage to
B<itavia .apd fent homciipme birds and other produdimts^oft^t
^ = i ifiand,
THROUGH SWEDEN. 117
idand, as a prefent to the cabinet of natural MRory, were on that
account made academicians. Phyficians in the idand of St. Barthelemi
have been rewarded for fimilar ferrices in the fame manner:
even poft-mafters have been complimented with the title of
member, merely to cnfurc the fafe conveyance of letters and
parcels. Such are the fopperies aqd abfurdities that have been
committed in Sweden by a fociety of phitolbphers! The name
of academician, or fellow of a learned &ciety, ought not . to be
bellowed upon any other qualification or charafler than that
of a man of letters. But thefi; qualities are notattached to rank
and fortune, or other advantages; nor can they be created by the
diploma of an academy. It is therefore ridic\ilous and inconfifiient
with good fettfe to place , men in fituations for which tb^ are*
not fit. Let the academies found orders, and grant to their favourites
crofles or any other particular marks of diitinflion; all
thefo may be innocent : but th^ihould not pretend, by the magic
of their eleflion, to make philofophers of men who perhaps fcarcc
underlland the metmihg of the eapreffiom
Intrigue, cabal, and envy^'^f re^ merit, the little vices of fomC
academieaand learned focieties, have an unavoidable tendency to
expofo thetn to the attacks of wibandlridietde. The farcallical
cfdgramsitxr which the igcMiance andiiduhKfs' ofkidlvidnal academicians
have Jgiven birrix in d^^ienC'Coanttiesi Wohld form an
^c^ntjcltboek,^ and be i^e gaatondlf and indeed^mere juRly
ads^d'thatta grfot^part of their; mdakcars Or tranla^ns. All
tho t^orld knows the epitaph on Pirroa
:
Ci
TRAVELS
Ci pt Pirron qui ne fftt ricn,
Pas in6me academidcn.*
Tlie following is a lift of the academy of fciences at Stockholm,
in 1709-
class I.
(Economy general and rural.
Mr. Kuneberg, known as the author of ieveral pieces written
on the ftibjet of public aftairs during the fittings of the diets or
parliaments.
Dn Schulzenhielm, a phyfician, one of thebeft financiers in
Sweden.
Mr. Liliencrantz, formerly a fenator, a good financier. It was
by his advice that the rix dollar was raifed from the value of nine
to that of eighteen dollars. He was alfo the projector the new
ftheme adopted by government for the diftillation of brandy, by
which the privilege of diftilling was taken from the Swedilh
people, and became a monopoly at the difpofal of the crown. By
theft regulations individuals were obliged either to redeem the
right of diililling their own grain by a film of money, or to pay
for their fpirits double the nfiial price. The intereft of the king
was thus placed in dired oppofition to that of the nation. At4he
ftme idme that the price of brandy was fb much raiftd, and far-.
ther advances vyere ftill threatened, the farmers vvere depHyed of

* Here lies Pirn)n who was noUiin^/

Not even an academician.
the
THROUGH SWEDEN. 119
the drafF, or grains, which had been of great benefit to them in
the feeding of their cattle. Such an innovation was as bold and
rafli an experiment in Sweden, as the fuppreffion of religious fhows
and proceffions would have been at Rome or Naples. A general
infurre^lion was apprehended, and the odious monopoly was abandoned.
It was faid the beft humoured among the Swedes,
even when the popular indignation and rage againlt Mr. Liliencrantz
were moft fervent, that he was juftly and fufficiently punilhcd
for his mercilefs attacks on brandy by a certain domellic intemperate
ufe of that precious banc. Liliencrantz has the reputation
of being an honefl man, and an upright magifiratc.
Mr. Ugla, a colle^or of manuferipts andl icarce books, of which
he makes prefents to the academy.
Mr. Hellenius, profeflbr of Abo. He has attendied with great
diligence to the efFedts produced by intermixing the breed of different
Ipecies of animals.
Mr. Gra:ve Ehrensverd, who has publifhed an account of his
travels in Italy, written in arrange manner: his ideas are cxprefFed
in a myftical way, and as it were by hieroglyphics. He
is ah excellent diraughtfman, and Is particularly happy in caricature.
When admiral-general at Carllcrona, he was wont to
dratv ciuricaturcs of every one who came to vifit him.
Mtr. Dubb, a phyfician at Gothenburg, and author of a phyficooeconohiicidjburnal,
which is thuc^ dliemed.

To the idiit dais are sdlb al^ed the henes of Count Bunge,
Mr. Baton Bappe, apd Mr. Hahlberg.
CLASS
120 TRAVELS
CLASS II.
Commerce, and Mechanical Arts, or Handicrafts.
Baron Hcrmelin. The baron has made feveral joumies, and
at his own expence caufed geographical maps to be drawn of different
portions of the Swediih dominions. He entertains fome
ideas and projects for cultivating and peopling Lapland. At prefent
he is employed in writing a defeription of that country, and
its mineralogical produdions. More of this worthy and zealous
patriot hereafter.
Baron Ahlftromer, whO' has brought Iheep frmn Spain for im^
proving the breed of thole uieful animals in Sweden.
Mr. Arfvedfon, a rich merchant.
Mr. Gejer, a mineralogift, who has publiihed feveral memoirs
on lead mines difeovered in Scania. He has fet up a manufadory
of porcelain of an improved quali^, which has been very luccel^
ul.
Mr. Swab, a bergmaftare, ^or fuperintendant of mines, and a
good pradical mineralogift.
Baron de Geer, a very rich man, and fon of the celebrated
Charles de .Geer, who v^rote a treatiie on the hiftoryof infeds^
publiihed in feven volume^
Mr. Itindbom, author of a paper <m the vindl^t or windlals.
Mr. Gqm^, author of a work highly e^eemed on founderies of
iron in Swediih Mcfm'dfiere.
To the lecond clafi alfo belong Mr. Berndfton, and Mr, Bladbv
a phylician.
THROtfGH SWEDEN. 121
CLASS III.
Exterior Phyjtcs, and Natural Wjiory.
Mr. Lidbeck, a profcflbr at Lund. Having arrived at a very
great age, he has now loft the recolleftion of the little knowledge
of natural hiftory that he once poffefted.
Mr. Ofbeck, the oldeft naturalift living, and known in the
learned world by his Journey in China, which has been tranfiated
into different languages.
Mr. Thunberg, more advantageoully kno^ to the world by
his botanical deferiptions of erica, profea, gardcria, gladiolus, &c.
than by his Travels to Japan, in which his triffihg obfervations
feem to keep pace with the inequality and incorredneft of his
ftylc. He is now become a farmer; and being at the fame time
the fucceffor of Linnaeus in the univerfity of Upfala, he is taken
up with too many ol^e^b and branches of natural hiftory to be
great in any of them. His laft productions are very inferior, and
bear the marks of haftc and negHgcrice.
Mr. Sparrman, a phyfician, and one of the illuminees, or pupils
ofMefmer. His name is ibmetimes joined to that of Captain
Cook, the fambisscipiionihavigatof/ though he had no connection
with him, except that he tailed in the &nie (hip, Mr. Spatrman
has made' hirafelfknbwn to the '#brld by W Africa,
which is but a poof wCfit. J^fidei this hC has publifhed (bmc
other books and treatjfes, which do not ehdGb'jhith to a vety high
rank in thb rbphhliC of Iliiferi; that frbm dtfappoint-
VoL. I. R ment
132 TRAVELS
ment he has given up his literary labours, and turned his attention
to another occupation, by which he may perhaps render himfelf
more uTeful : this is a manufactory for making and printing linen
cloth. I have noticed above that the mufoum of the academy
was formerly entrullcd to his cate, but that he has been fuc^
cceded in that office by Dr. duenzek
Mr. Retzius, a profcflbr in the univerlity of Lund. He has
publilhed a fyftem of mineralogy, by which he has acquired feme
reputation, though it is laid to be founded chiefly on compilation.
In the preface to thfs book he acknowledges that he is not intimately
converflint with the lyftem of Laveiflr.
Mr. Odman, a clergyman, and profeflbr at Upfata, well verfed
in geography, and editor of different voyages and travels. He is
the author of a treatife intended to explain feveral paffages in the
facred feriptures by the aid of natural fiilfory. He is accounted
an excellent philologift, as well as a good naturaliff : he is profoundly
Ikillcd in Hebrew and Arabic: he is an aa univerfal
fcholar, and his name is famous throughout all Sweden. Being
oppreffed with melancboty> he never ffirs from his chamber. One
day, being ftrongly afflicted with this iodifpofition, he font to one
of his friends to borrow fome books of any fort to amule him
:
his friend, knowing his taffe, lent him a chefl; full of voyages and
travels. He is particularly noted for a comprehenflve and tenacious
memoqr, and by means of this and his great reading, he has
acqwred a more accurate knowledge of many remote parts of the
globe than thofc who have actually travelled in them. He forms
m
THROUGH SWEDEN. 123
in his mind an abridgment of all the books he reads ; and is, in
fliort, a living encyd<^aedia.
Mr. Von Carlson, who has a cabinet of natural hiRory, which
contains a great collection of ihilFcd birds. He is very convcrfant
in ornithology. He has bequeathed by will his collection to
the academy, and it is on this ground diat he was chofen a.
member.
Mr. Homftedt, who has made a voyage to Batavia, and thence
imported Ibmc natural curiohties.
Mr. Swartz, juRly celebrated throughout kll Europe as a difiin*
guifhed botaaid. He excels particularly in the clad of crypto*
gamia. To his literary merits he adds tl^e advantage of obliging
manners, and of a communicative and generous difpofition.
Mr. Fahlberg, phyfician to the Swedifh fettlement in St. Bar*
thelemi, from whence he fent ipecimens of natural productions to
the academy at Stockholm.
Mr. Paykull. He is the author ofa verlion of Anacreon from
the French tranHation, for he does not underftand the original
Greek. He has aifo publifhed Ibme tiieatricd pieces, viz. Odenfwarman,
Virginia and Domuld, which arc not thought by any
one to be above, and by feme rather below, mediocrity. The
work entitled Fauna Suenia is not fuppofed to be entirely his own
compofition.
Mr. Afzelius, lately returned from Sicrra>Leone, in Africa, where
he refided for thc.fpace of four or five years ; he there was the
proprietor of a fmall piece of ground, from which he was driven
R 2 into
124 TRAVELS
into circuraftances ot great diftrefi, by that exterminating rage
which prevailed at that time between the French and the Englilh.
He collcdcd objeds of natural hiftory in, that country
;
and is going to publish a Fauna and Flora Quineen/is. He is alfb
a proficient in oriental languages.
Mr Acharius, who has publifhed fome trads on the moffes and
lichens, under the title of Ltchemgraphta \ in which work he is
indebted to the aiCftance of Mr. Swartz.
Mr. Norberg; this gentleman has travelled a great deal in Rufiia,
and is efteemed a* very ingtsnious and ikilful mechanic^ He
has made fevcral improvements in the Ream engine* and given
other proofs of mechanical invention.
, Interhr PkyficSf md Experimental Phihfophy.
Mr. Von EngefttQm> already noticed in the academy of belleslettres.
,
Mr, J. G. .Gahn, ,of Fahlun; be is an excellent metallurgift,
and acquainted with idl the. principal experiments in metallurgy,
as well as with books on that fiibjed in different languages. He
is the moft engaging and interefUng gentlemanJn Fahlun, on
account both of his genial knowledge and ;his polite and elegant
hofpitality.'
Mr. Hielm, a chemiR blindly devoted to the f^flem of Bergf
mann. . # f
,Raron Von Gedda, formerly an accurate experimenter; but he
has
THROUGH SWEDEN. las
has lived till he has become very aged/ till he has loft his fight
;
and what is more mortifying-his fame.
Mr. J. Gadolin, a very good chemift, and author of a treatife
on the elements of chemiftry.
Mr. Julin, an apothecary ; hisadmiilion into the academy was
the reward of his meteorological obfervations at Ullaborg, which
were made with great diligence and accuracy : he is a good and
adive colledor in natural hiftory.
Mr. Broling, who has been in England for the purpoft of feeing
the mines, and becoming acquainted with the methods which
are ufed in that country of working them : he paftes in Sweden
for the inventor of a flexible catheter, made of elaflic gum ; and
alfo of a folution of iron for ftamping names or any other mark
on linen cloth, without injuring it. He imported from England
the fecrct of pulveriflng Peruvian bark and othet fubftances ; on
which account it is believed he was forced to quit that country.
Mr. Edelcrantz, already noticed in the Swediih academy ; he
is a kind of butt to both academies. Guftavus III. called him
Lj/ren-krantz ; but the fecretary offtatei Schroderheim, obferved^
that he ought to be called Mtt/in-krantz, which in Swediih implies
a rifible double lignification.
Mr. Sioften, a young man, as well in years as in the ftudy of
phyfics ; he has tranllated into the Swediih tongue Cavallos
Theory of Eleflricity. V':
CLASS
xzS TRAVELS
CLASS V.
Matlimaticid Scieticet,
Mr. Gadolin, bilhop of Abo.
Mr. Fcrner, already noticed In the academy of belles-lettres.
Mr. Mclandcrliielm ; he has written a book on aftronomy, in
two volumes od:avo ; a courie of mathematics, in feveral volumes
not yet printed ; commentaries on the theory of the moon, and
feveral papers in the oSs of the academy. As a mathematician,
he has the charadler of a confummate calculator, and profound
geometrician. His manners ate marked by an uncommon degree
of coldnels and apparent indiffemnee.
Mr. af Chapman, known as the author of experiments on the
refiftance of flmds, printed among the memoirs of the academy.
He is confidered as the greateft naval arebited in Sweden.
Mr. Planman, celebrated for an obfenration taken at Cayanaborg,
of the tranfit of the planet Mercury over the fun ; which
oblervation, in conjunction with that of De la Cailk, at the Cape
of Good Hope, form the bails for the menfuration of dimenfion in
the iyilem of the world.
Mr. Profperin, celebrated on account of his exteniive table on
the diitances of comets, and feveral memoirs publiilied in the aCls
f the academy on the fame fubjeCL
Mr. Lejonmark, author of feveral memoirs on the conitruCtion
of equations of the third and fourth degree. .Not a miHl of genius
THROUGH SWEDEN. 127
nius or invention, but vtrell acquainted with chemiftry and mineralogy.
He is hergrat, or counfellor of the college of miners.
Mr. Nicander, compiler of the Swcdilh almanacks.
Mr. Landerbeck, author, as- 1 believe, of a paper publiihed in
the tranfadions of the royal fbciety of London, De Methodo
inveniendi Curvas ex datis radiorum Ofeuli proprietatibus.
When he was firft propofed as a member by Ferncr, he was rcjeded
; but on his producing a letter of recommendation from
England, as is faid, he was admitted.
Mr. Nordmark, formerly profeflbr of mathematics at GriclTc
walde ; now protellbr of natural philofbphy at Uplala. He is the
author of feveral memoirs publiihed among the ads of the academy,
and of one publiihed lately under the title of Lacunae irt
dodrin^ proportionum Euclidek animadverfae, expletio, in
which he undertakes to obviate the objedions of Dr. Robert
Simfon, profellor in the univerfity of Glalgow, to the fifth and
feventh definitions in the fifth book of Euclid;* and in which he
has clearly (hewn that Euclids method of treating proportions is
Ibidly mathematical. He is one of the mod learned and enlightened
men in the unlveiiity of Upfala : he is not only acquainted
with the modern languages, and with Greek and Latin,
but is allb a great proficient in Hebrew, Arabic, and Syriac.
Mr. Lidtgren, aftrpnomical oblerver at Lund.
Mr. Schulten, profeflbr in the military Ichool at Carlbcrg
:
he has lhade hydrographical charts of the gulph of. Bothnia ; and
* Sec Simfons Elements of Euclid.
. publiihed.
laS TRAVELS
publiihed, ibr the ufe of his pupils, elements of agronomy and
mechanics.
Mr. Nordwall, one of theJbeft mechanics in Sweden. It was
under the diredion of Nordwall that the famous canal of Trolhatta
was completed. He is now engaged in the continuation of
a work, called in Swedi(hJ3r^erir Lexicon, i. e. a didionary on
mines and mineralogy : it was b^un by Mr. Renman, who wrote
a hiftory of Sweden, which is well known in the literature of
that country.
Mr. Swamberg, YeCfetary to the academy, a native of Tornea.
He is a profound mathematician and aftronomer ; a man of exteniive
general knowledge; and a true philolbphcr. He has been
lately fent into Lajdand to venfylhteobfervations of Maupertuis,
and is at this momrot emplr^ed, together with other mathema*
ticians, in repeating' the obleiarations< made by the French academicians,
which were fufpeded of inaccuracy.
To the fame clafs likewi&' belong Mr. Polheimer, a good mechanic
Mr/ Tegman; and Mr. Boiick.
CLASS VI.
Meittcine,
Mr. af Acrel, efteemed the beft furgeon in Sweden. He is a
man of great merit ; but it is to be regretted that he has remained
wholly ignorant of the difcovcries that have been made in phyfiology
during the laft ten years, in other parts^ of Europe. The
conlequence of this is, that he is devoted to his own iyftem, and
will
THROUGH SWEDEN. 119
-will admit no alteration and improvement. He is a good ope>
rator.
Mr. Schultzencrantz> a very old man, was in his day an excellent
accoucheur.
Mr. Wahlbom, a naturaliit.
Mr. Odhelius ; in extreme old age, he has not only Survived
his reputation os an operator in difi^fes of the- eyes, but almoft all
recolledion of his exiftence.
Mr. Blom, already mentioned in the Swedilh academy ; he is
one of the fuperintendants of the mines at'Fahlun.
Mr. Acrel, junior, nephew to the older Acrel, and as diRinguiihed
in his profeffion. This young man gave indications of a
vigorous and inventive mind, and much was expected from the
progrefs of years and experience. But a firoke.of apoplexy in the
head has obliged him to retire from bofineRi and to abandon his
Rudies.
Mr. Murray, a great anatomiR, and ptofeflbr of anatomy at
Upfala : he has written a number of papers in the memoirs ofthe
academy of fciences at Stockholm, as well as in thole of the
royal fociety at Uplala. He is polTefled of an extraordinary fund
of knowledge, and noted for his ardent zeal to communicate his
Ikill and fdence to his pupils*
Mr. HagRrom> a furgeon and pby^ian at Stockholm : the
beR accoucheur after Sehultsiencrantz* He is accounted a more
learned man than the latter*
.V01.I* S Mr.
130 .
-TRAVELS.
Mr. Weibing, s pH^rfician at Noricoping. H iia$, publiihed
fome interefling obiervatiom on the ufe that may be made of
lichens in the produdion of varbns colours.
Mr. H. Gahn, a |^y{ician> Tirho is at the ^faead of his ptp&ffion
in Sweden in refped of the theory of phyfic. He is attentive to
every new experiment, difcoveiy and improvement, and keeps
pace with the progrefs of firience. .
Mr. Noezen, a phyiician at ; Up&ta, who > empicys his lei&re
hours in the ibidy of natural luftcuy. He has given a defeription
of fomeinfedB.':-;"
Mr. Tengmalm, a plyiician at Wederaas, and accounted the
beft pra^tioner in the provinces. He has himi&ed two very
good papers in the memoirs of the academy, one on Swedish
birds, and another mi a wmnan who luwsd a number of flies in
her nofe.
CLASS vn.
Unktr/al W^aty, Btfiory af JJitrature and other
, . ^Ui^tes, ufefid or <^ee^^
Mr. Schonberg, already noticed in the academy of belles*lettres.
Mr. Liljeftrftle, a poet. .
Mr. Gerfve, Count Sparre. See acadeny of befles'lettres.
Mr. Aldbreth, a member ofthe two (br^mng academies.
Mr. Vop RolenfljiNi^ beflMie mentioned in the Swedifti academy.
Mr. Franc, a poft-maftet.
.t
THROUGH SWEDEN. 131
f
Baron Rentcrholm> famous on account of the influence he poffefled
in the dim^ion of public affurs during the regency. I
know not that he has cultivated any branch of literature.
Mr. Roiehbald, a devotee) and thought to be one of the illu*
minath
Mr. Silverftolpe. See Swediiharudemy.
Mr. Ekel : the befl: chemifi in SvVeden.
In tbb academy we allb find the names of Mr. Zetzel) Lagerhelm)
Ofverboni) Schultzcnheiin, and Rofenhane.-
Bcfides the literary academies, of which *I have given an ac-<
count in the foregoing pages, there areibme oriieia in Sweden, viz.
1. The royal academy of fcienees at Upfala, whole tranfa^ons
arc written in Latin.

2. The royal Ibdety for the cultivation of fcienees and belleslettres

at Gothenburg, which has publiflied fi>me memoirs.
3. The royal phyfiographical ^ciety, which was infliituted at
Lund in 17/6, and incorporated by the king in 1778*
pers, which this' IbClfety has given to thii world, relate dnfy to the
natural hiftory, chemiltiy, arid agriaHure of the province of Skane
or Scania. 'v .
v.
4. The Ibcicty of belles-lettres, natural hi^y, and rural oeconomyatGarlftMt.
*
5 . The^academy of belies-^IettreS at Aboi t* ' ~
, tfii ThePitdandilhfi)cieiyfi}r?sUvaloBM^^ i
7 The patriotic ^d agricultural Ibcie^ of Stockholm.
'
So Thc academy for painting and Iciflpture at Stockholm.
S 2 9. The
TRAVELS 13a
9. The focicty- for the inftruftion of fellow-dtizens at Stitch*
holm.*- '- "
.
'
The academy of fcicnccs hdd their meetings in the Obfervatory
, which is a lofty and beautiful edifice, iknated on an eminence
at the extremity of the city,* and - iiimifhed with a great number
of excellent aftronomical inftruments of all forts. There is nothing
l^ which the genius of the Swedes i mow diftinguifoed,
than ehappy tura for mechanical impH>tment. which is called
forth and encouraged by their, mines. It was 1^ means of inftruments
made at Stockholm, that the Swedilh aftronomers detefted
certain inaccuracies in tiie obfervatioos made by Maupertuis.
There is at Stockholm, in an andent palace where the courts of
* On tbe Tubjeet of the actual fiatc of literature in Sweden I ought to take
notice of men of letters, of di^guiihed talents and accompliihments, Who are
neither tnembers of academies; nor profeffi>rB in uniWifides. Perhaps lot^ht
alfo to inpation ftrangers who, from the ciicumfiance of being, eft^liihed in
fome of the public offices at Stockholm, have an opportunity of contributing
dther directly or indirectly to the advanCenteht of literitture and fcience. But
fucb perfons,.retiied froui the pmppandparade of learning,, have aright to be
protected under the fhade of Uieir^itofdpbical retreat. As they are not ambirious
of pubHe praMe, fo 'neilhef they to bhdrag^ forth into public eri>
tici^ and cenfure. I eannot, hoffi^, .avoid jannwig Cat^li, a minifler
of the calvinifiic perfuafibn at Stockholm, author of a book called Tableau de la
Suede^ a lecture w a View^ of Sweden, WhiiriihiW been trafifiaftd into 'EngHfh.
Mr. Catteau has a true aiid gemdne tafio And tora for,,iitsra4>K, .Avt^dingithe
noife of an oftentatious though lasy fociety, he divides his time and Iris cares
between his parochial duties and his dudi^,' arid fiWi^beeii'^plii^e^'fbr' tfiefe
laft yenfs ia^ftatifileal enquiries epncerniogiDetimarll sod ^ SlWdett.' ilb.>veork
wijl be, tliq complete that we have of the kind, and will ftrye u A model
in that fpeciesbf compofition; It was printing at iParisMD^One volume bflt had
appeSred'when this WM wtittcB.
. juftice
THROTJGH SWEDEN. >33
juilfice are now held, near the church of Rideriholmi a cabinet of
models, or repofitory of machines, the moft complete collcdion
of the kind that 1 have ever leen or heard of. The models relate
either to new inventions, or to improvements- in machinery;
they are kept in a fpacious room, and arranged in a veiy proper
and elegant manner. Among the models for rural oeconomy you
obfervfi different kinds of mills, inftruments for fowing grain, for
fhearing oncuttirig, and gathering the crop, and alfb for threlhing
it; hydraulic machines; ftoves ufed in die niines} and pumps,
with their apparatus and mode of working them. It may feem
Icarcely. credible, even almoft miraculous, yet it is neverthelefs
trae, that the Swedes have invented a mechanical overfeer, one
who performs more faithfully, diligently, indefatigably, accurately,
and more equitably to both parties, the employers and employed,
the duties of fuperintendant of workmen, ; A conftderable part
of the labour in the mines confifts in working^ the pumps, therefore
a clock has been invenled. for marking the number of ftrokes
given by the pumpers ; hence the precife proportion of work they
. have performed is
, eafily afcertained. ^ere Wo are models of
ligbt-houfes, and various methods of making fignab to navigators
;
^aebaiam whieb a.pflriibn may corrveniently .move him^lf from
oneplaee to aimther ; an-inftrument which fliews the line of di-
K^bon ta^ep by a<bail when difchj^ed from, a cannon or mortar
:
but h would be endlefkto eitnmefaterdl.-tbe ingenious eoutrivances
that may be furvepred in this curiom^ They are many
of them the works of the celebrated atgiofier. and :mechanic Ppl*
theim.
TRAVELS 34
theim.. Thbcabinet is open to mfpc^wnof cvtiy body; but
if you wifh to fee it
,
alone, or /9rith<H:^ being interrupted hy. a,
crowd of ipe^ators, a gratuity of about an Ekigliih ihilling given
to the dpor-keeper wUl pnxnurc you this .favour. My. infpettion
influenced me to,remark, that , many mechanical inventions, and
improvements, whi^ are produced to the Englifh nation as new,
may be found to have miginated in Germany, and to have been
previoufly known in Sweden.. This fhoifld put the people of
England upmi their guard not to betray their ^oranee in giving
approbation andpatxodage n> ti^ngs that are borrowed from other
nations, . and bdd out. to them as . inventions. That &voured
country poffefles &.mueh original genius, and has been the.foim*
tain of fo much exoaUence, that it is vain, ibdifh and fuperfluous.
in its. inhabitants to .plume tivsmielves (m mechamcal novelties
firfl brought to light m other nations.
Although it muft be confefled, that the Swediflr academies ate
not altogether flirmed on that fbmd. the. teft of pbilofopbicad
femtiny, yet it cannot be denied that there is notwithftatiding in -
Sweden, and even in the academies, much genius add induflay.;
direfled to ufqful purpof^, and peodudiye ^ of the heft fruits.
;
The original intention of thofb in^tutions certainly was gdod /
though they ware afterwards perverted and abufed; ibr .wben :
men meet and conyerfe freely together, they batm an opportumty
,
of (^mparlng tbeir .ideas, of conflrroing their , opinioia^ whenk;
right by the obfervations of others, or correftiiig t||cm^^ v^^^
strong by their criticifms. Different notions; arc^ ffMted by dif-
,
ferent
THROUGH Sto)EN. *35
feitnt people on the fame fabjed, which lingly isiiight be of little
, vfe; ' hut when colleded and concentrated may lead to important
coniequenccs: hence enquiries are fet bn foot, analogies arc dlfcovercd;
theories formed, and fcience is enlarged. Befrdes thi;-,
it is of great advantage for individuals to be fbmetithes interrupted
in the monotonous train of their ovrn ideas, and to have them intermingled
and Varied by the crnioeptbns of others. Thisafls
upon the mind as a ftimulus, and produces vigour and acutenefs ;
whereas a dull uniformity flackens its efforts. Oh the fubjeft of
literary focieties it may be hirthcr obferved; that there is in every
human creature a delire to be regarded by bis fellow-naen with
complacency and relped, and a propeiditjr to inVite the lympathy
of our neighbours with our emotions of admiration, wonder, liirprize,
and averfimi. Hence the advantage of poffeinng a refpectable
and congenial circle, ready to' attend to our difeoreries and
lucubrations, is a powerful incitement to inquiiy of various kinds,
and to owiffant and accurate oblervation ; and the weight ofItudy.
is relieved by Ibcial delight. But the advantages of luch ibcieties
are not eonhhed to entertainment, or to pleafure mixed with inffru^
on. They likewife have a happy mord effeft: they abffraft
men of Icilure from fi^volous or pemicibus amufementsj
they fortify every humane fentiment, every' virtuous purpofo, and
every laudable purfuit. Such is the itatoral tendency of literary
focieties drawn toother; as theyat Itrft cbmtni^ly are,' by private
friendlhip, ^milarity of fentiment, and a'j^nuine dclitre of information
and imprbvemtnt , arid it ia %omdil>nly id their liiff Rages
that
136 TRAVELS
that they arc moft flourifhing. When they are more and more
extended, when numbers of 'ftrahgers are introduced, when they
are honoured with public edebrity, and the countenance and interference
of kings and princes, fimplicity and iincerity of intention,
mutual goodnefs, and a love of truth, are exchanged for vanity,
potnp, and fation
There is, perhaps, no country in Europe where inftrudion is fo
Wivedally did!ufed among the very loweft of the people as in
Sweden, except Iceland, Scotland,* and the late fmall republic of
Geneva. All the people in towns* villages, and hamlets, without
exception, are taught .to read. It was not without realbn, therefore,
that Guflavus III. who kept a watchful ' eye' oH everv event
that might influence the ibtte of fodety, interdided dl mention
in the Swedifhjournals of a French revolution, either good or bad.
He wifhed the people not only to be prevented from thinking of it,
and reafbning about it ; but as much as poffible to be kept in the
dark as to its vay exiftence. The efleds to be defired or dreaded
in any country frmn ^e predudions of .the prefi, are, no doubt,
in proportion to the degree and extent of education which the
people at large have received. It does not follow, from the circumftance
of the Swedes being all taught to read, and attached to
"if
* In Scotland I find there is fcarcely any peribn, no not even a begpr, who
cannot botli read and write ; nor any in Iceland who cannot read, write, and caft
accounts. In every fiimily in Iceland the children are infirufied in reading, writing,
nnd arithmefic, at home, by their parents or otherreladves. When the boys
are fent to fchool it is to acquire Latin, and other accomptilhments, fuch as forae
knowledge of geog^pl^, and of the elements of mathematics.
eftablifhed
THROUGH SWEDEN. 137
eftabjifhcd tenets and modes of tvorlh^> tlt^ they thould be an
honeft and good ibrt Qf people: this however is the cale. The
Swedes, I mean the peasantry, (for as to the inl^bitants of towns
they are corrupt in proportion to their population, their commerce,
and their luxury) are a frank, open, kind>hearted, gay,
hofpitable, hardy, and ipirited people. It. would be difficult to
point out anynation that is more dilUnguiihed by u happy union
of genius, bravery, and natural probity of dilpoiition They are
reprefented by their neighbours as the gafeons of Scandinavia.
This charge, when due allowance is made for the mutual jealoufy
and antipathy of neighbouring nations, amounts to ho more than
this, that they are actuated by that ienfibility to fame* and love
of diftinflion, which generally predominate; in the bteafts of brave,
generous, and adventurous peojde.
Voi,, I. T GHAPTER
>3* TRAVELS
CHAPTER Vm.
Itt/lhutiofUfor the Furpofes if Education in ^edm: Fari/h Schools,
Fublic Schools, Gymntfia, and UnruerjitmAccount of the Univerfty
of Lund-The Frofeffors and Students: the Method of
teaching, and the Things that are tatght-^The Unherfty ofUpfala
Some Intelligence ofthe individual Uhara&er offeveral Frofeffors
The Univerjity ofAboGeneral Remarks on the Svaedifh Univerjities
Guftavus III. enters the Frince Royal at the Unmerjity
of Upfala.
ly'HERE is certunly no country in the world in which greater
^ provHion has been made, and mwe pains taken for the advancement
and diffufipn of knowledge among all claiTesof fociety,
thw in Sweden : a proof at once of a lilieral and enlightened turn
of mind, and of that reipeft .for the digniity and rights of human
nature, which compenlates to rude climates the want of vaxaf.
bleSings enjoyed in more genial and produ^ive regions. That
thu praiie is not bellowed on the Swedif|fi. nation without reafomi
yt^l appear from a general view of for the
of eduoition and inftrudion, which am known by the
n^nes of fchools, gymnaSa, and univerfities.. I
pari& has its icbooh in which the comnsoh nuhments of
. reading^
THROUGH Sweden. i3<,
tcading and writing are taught. Beiides this, there is a public
fchool maintained in every large town at the expcnce of the crown,
in which the boys continue till about their eleventh or twelfth year,
when they ate commonly fent to one of the gymnaiia. Thefe
alfo arc public fchools, but upon a larger fcale than the former ;
and one of them exifts in almoft every province. From the gymriafia
the young men, at the age of feventeen or eighteen, proceed
to one of the univerlitics, and for the greater part to Upfala. In
the gymnaiia, and many of the greater ichools, they are not only
inilrudied in the L/atin, Greek and Hebrew languages, but in the
principal dodrines of theology. Thefe fchola illuftres and gymnaiia,
are tinder the care and inipedion of the biihops of the refpedive
diocefes in which they are cftabliihed, and where the
biihops conftantly refide. The biihops, accompanied by feme of
the inferior clergy, and others, vifit and examine the fehoob ||pbllcly
at fixed periods. The courfe of education, and the books
read, are not left to ^e 'diferetion of the teachers, but preferibed
by public authority. At Stockholm there is a German fchool,
which is placed under the infpedion of two German minifeers of
the gospel. In this feminary the pupils are infeiuded in Grecian,
Roman, and moderm hiftbry, geography and relij^ion. The
Swediih gentlemen^feldom cont^hted with what may be called
a fcholaitic, or'a gymh^ic ^ucatioh, but proceed either from one
of tile greater, or, as; they catl ihero, the illulbious 'fehools ; or
more generally feotn one;of the g^mtiaihi to the aniverfity. The
fens of wedthy tindefioeh too,^ a^^ have very frequently
T2 the
140 TRAVELS
. W*!jthe
advantage .of an univeriity education. If any of .the youth
whofe circiinoftances might not admit of an univeriity education,
give indications of hne parts, iuids a genius, for any department of
fcience ; the inip^ctors, who are . in geuetai allowed to difcharge
their duty ^reat ^igencu ^d;|ddclity, mak^^ a report of him
to the king, who thett ofdars that; Jic jpay, receive an education
fuitabie, to his talents and his merit. 1. may take, tbb opportunity
to obferye, that the Swedilh clergy are j^r tbe moft part regular
and decent in their deportment, and. attentive to the duties of
their office. .
In the Swedifli dominions arc three mnveriidesx^thatpfUplala,
that of JLund, . and, that, pf Abo.* .Following, sis. onght to l>c
done in a book of travels, thej|:ograpbicaI order of the pbees, 1
bcgiri wnh that of FfUnd, the capital of .&ania, efteemed the
m^ ancient town in Sweden. It is lituated about :fixty Swe.dllh
naijes * to the fbuth of Stockholm, ,and iixty,**feven.of Uplala. It
is the reddenee of an arehbiffiop.
, .Th% eJLunate is remarkably
falubrious j the pountiy ruround being pi^n, .rprelefiits in an open
apd extenlive view .a horiztm well.ddaptcd..to obieryations in ailronomf
j
the arm bfitbe lea Which dw^ Sweden from
l>ehmark,.|:dU;fec ^{:^h<%ctr aod\^i'Paniffi^ pror
feffi>rs in ^ inelAding ^>8]^an|s,iare^ m
numher;-nao|ie, thaii^l^y }. the ^ftudents
hnh<^.||*^The libr^. contidi^ ahovP itWei^id^
^9iiiicat garden ah

. number
THROUGk SWEDEN. 14,
number of plants does not exceed one tKbu&nd two hundred. It
was in the umvctlit^ of Lund that Linnsus, under the counte*
nance and tuition dfprofeffor Stpbicus, acquired bis flrft ideas of
his arrangements in natural hifioiy ; and he lived to fee his
favourite ftudy be^nning to flourilh in that femihary, under the
influence of one of his own pupils. Before this dawn, we find
him in his writings eipreffing his wonder, that in a fituatlon
much more falvourable than thait of Upfala, as being four degrees
more foutheriy and wefteirly, the garden of Lund haS not rlfen
to fome eminence. The univerfity was ellablifhed in 1688, by
Charles XI. and called ^er his nmitAcadenita Carolina Gotharum.
The profcCorlhips are divided into four clafTes or faculties
:
ift. Theology ; 2d. Jurii^rudent^ i 3d. Medicine ; 4th. Philofophy
: to which there has been added a fifth clafs of profeflbrs,
under the name of Artium CuLTioRtrM Magistri, 6r
fors of the mote eluant Viz. of fencing, mufic,
dancing, and drawing. '
' In theolo^ there aire three ptofeflbrs,
and two profeflbtS'fexttabtdiflary, befides whit they eall two magiftri
doceutei, or priV1itt!teich'ctt, '%^ it fbems to be,
not only to inftrud the ftudents in ditinity and eccleiiafticd hiftory,
and to ORpeitind to^theto foine pbr^bh^nually of the fatred
toripttoeai;Bii^^idiS^ m'-an ind fitoliliar'inaitoerrt^ their
dbubts by (^ahy d^^ toe Bibie^ or
any dthi^ &bj^* thai tMftiKtonto"
In likdiman^^to^^afilfliaiit profeShilin' the^^^ ih this
as well as in tha bkier Svredil^ always ready to
' - ^ anfwcr
54* TRAVE^
anfwer any qucftions th^t may be puit to tftein by this ftudents,
whether in the lefture-room or privately. THc profciTors moft
diRinguilhed by academical ardour encourage fuch queftions very
much, and are highly delighted when they find in them proofs
not only.of diligence, but of genius ; for, not to take for granted
every thing that is given out, but to hefitate, to doubt, and to
ilatt difiiculties, is fo far to be confidered as a mark of genius, as
it ihews that other powers of the mind are at work befides mere
conception and memoiy. 1 have been told by different perfons,
both in Ireland and Scotland, that the celebrated Hutchinfbn,
profeiTor of moral philofbphy in the univerfi^ of Glafgow, and
author of a book on morals, which makes all virtue to confifi; in
benevolence, prompted by a moral fehfe, was wont to live, as it
were, and converfe with his pupils, as if they had been his equals
and companions. There was never a day that pafied when he did
not walk even for hours in the college gardens with fbme of his
ifiudents, of whofe capacity he entertained a,good opinion, or with
one that choie to converfe with him, and alk any quefiion. In
the evenings, in like manner, he always had a number of them at
his houfe.
The fcicncc of theology, if it admits of any progrefiive improvement,
has certunly experienced none in the univerfity of
Lund, where orthodoxy reigns in its motft frigid i: form. The cafiph
Omar was not more firmly perfuaded fh^ every thing niecefi^
ty or pre^r to be known by man was edhtaih^ in tbie Ko'*
ran, than the profe^rs (^ divinity at Lund are, that there is
nothing
- ^ 143
nothing on the futje^ of theology to.be added or defired, beyond
what has been taught by Luther. Dr. Hylander, one of the profeffors
extraordinary of divinity, teaches the Greek and oriental
languages.
In the faculty of jurifprudcncc there arc two profedbrs, one
alliftant, and one tnagtjier docent, or private teacher. Profcflbr
Tingwall is known in the north by his fyftem ofjurifprudence,
publilhed in the Swedifli language, and by the induftry and zeal
with which he difeharges the duties of his office. The other
profelTor, Laurence Munthe, is cfteemcd a man of confidcrable
learning in his profeffion.
In the medical clafi there are three profeiTors, Dr. Wollin, Dr,
Barfoth, and Dr. Engelhart ; and two affiftants. Dr. Floriman
and Dr. Munck.
Dr. Barfoth, profelTor of anatomy, travelled in England and
part of Scotland.
Dr. Engelhart, profefibr of the theory and pradlice of medi*
cine, is firli; phylician to the king. He is confidered as a man of
the world rather than a man of letters ; and in return, he treats
men who. are only men of letters and Icience, and not conver&nt
with the great world, in a vety haughty and fupercilious manner
His academical ledlures may be deerned rather compilatioiis than
original productions, and are chi(^y nscbihiti^ded to the atten*
tion of thc 'kuffi^ 'by^w eai^ and' a^rt^ble elocution. The
Doctor travdljsd ^th in
44
,
Dr. Floriman teaches ofteology, materia and the vetCf
linary art. M[ -
The province of Dr. Munck is chiefly p^thdogy.
In the faculty or clafs of philpfophy there am ieven profcflfors,
and fifteen afhftant . profpflbrs. The profeflbrs give leAures on
mathematics, al|obrat a^onomy, natural, hiftoiy, civil hiftory
both Undent and modem, and hi%ry of lite rature : the Greek
and oriental languages, botany, geor^cs, or rural oeconomy, the
lavv of nature and nations, metaphyfles, &c,
The profelTorial aihftants, bf^des. the elementary and moft
ufeful parts of natural fdence, fuch as geography, the elements
of botany, hprticukure and oth^ branches of teach a
kind of logic, which they define to be a branch of theoretic^
philofophy; that b, they teach ^to make fyllogifms, modes, and
figures, and dl the old naachinery pf di^utat|on : but the chief
bufinefs of thefe alfiftants leems to be, to explain with philofo*
phical and critical remark^ t|^e. Grec^ and^^^ They
anfwcr in a great degree to what in ^^,COuntries n^^
profeflbrs of humanity. They alfo profefs to Ic^e on the hiftory
of
to make any great account. In a pro^'ftus of the Ic^ures that
were to be read, I find, the folldwing ndtic&~: Laur P. Wahlin
^*,.tt* docens,J^ftk|ibUp^|iim mc^^ll^s ful^i^ lU-r
Wslilin, litafitt of phUo%Iw.4wi t^her
** rafiirei i^fato gJve aB a^^^ 46fe wlwhiiy of
:
- ;:,'enter
THROUGH SWEDEN. 145
enter at all deeply^ at this univerfity, into the queftion concerning
the foundation of moral obligation. Tll^y certainly do not keep
pace with the viciffitiides and progrefs of the various opinions on
that fubjeft. All that is good for any thing in moral philofophy
is contained, as they fuppofe, in Cicero de Officiis and PufFcndorf.
1 am inclined to lufpeA that moral philofophy at^Lund is regarded
with an evil eye, as being in Ibmc retpeAs inimical to the tenets
of Luther. I have not been able to difeover that this fubjcA is
very much attended to in many Catholic or Lutheran, or in other
words in many Epitcopal univerfities.
The profeflbrs in philofophy are,
Mr. Lidbeck, already noticed amotig the members of the academy
of fcicnccs.
Sommelius, heretofore librarian : he has publillied a Greek
grammar in Swediih, and a great ntunber of academical diifertations.
Matthias Norberg, profeflbr of Greek and oriental languages, a
member of the philofophical fociety of Gothenburg, and a corre-
Ipdndent member of the mufoum at Paris. He travelled with the
celebrated Biornftahl, in Greece, Turky, Italy, &c. He has introduced
a new mode ofpronouncing Hebrew, and a new method
of acquiring that language with facility. His mode of pronouncing
Greeks though geiierally deemed new, was formerly adopted
by Reuchlin, %ho maintiuned a chlpute on that fubjedt with Erafmus,
ytBbfe prphuheiatiOp u 11^mtained at Upfala. It would, in
my opinion^ be difficult to fpecify ally objeS of literaiy invefliiga-
VoL. I. U tion
145 tRAV^ItS'
tibn more ufelefs or uncertain thani an etitj^uiry into the exaA mode
of pronouncing dead languages. Mr. Norberg is undoubtedly a
man of genius, as well as of ihduftry and learning. He has pub-
Hflied a Codex Syriaco Hexaplarii, with a l^tin verlion, and a great
variety of academical treatiles, relating chiefly to the eaftern nations,
their rnahheb and cuftoms, of which he is a great admirer
;
their' gods> laws, &c. and all in a ll)'le of pure latinity, formed
chiefly on that of Tacitus.
Matthew FrCmlinj^, profcflbr of theoretical philolbphyi He
has publllhed a piece entitled, " An Enquiry into the Arguments
" of Mr. Kant'in favour of the exiflchce of God, and of the Tm-
" mortality of the Soul with feme theolOgiCal eflays. His beft
works are, his Diflertations on Space as it is Conceived by Kant,
He pOfle^i gi^t acutenefi of mind, as well as a fine imagination,
and fluency ofesepreffion, and has the talent of diflTuling an interefl:
and animation on the mbfl: abftrufc fubjeds. He has been engaged
in feveral literary controverlies with the prefent bifliop (formerly
'profHror)Mnhthe, a follower and commentator of Kants
fyftem. .
RetciuS, piofeflbr of natural hiflory, chemiftry and Oeconomy^
above noticed.
Tegman, profeflbr of mathematics, efleemed a very good teacher.
Ltihdbald, profefl!pr of pOetty aiid eloquence. He ^ihed the
pHze in thh academy of belles-lettres by a ^m on the viftory of
Charles 3fII. at Natya. He is a greatl>athi poet, and ihdeed the
only dtie in SWedeh.
THROWa SWEDEN. 147
Sjqbcrg, ptQfcflgr of biftoiy, author of diflertatipns on Swedifh
antiquities. ,
In the Swedifh as in the German univerlities, there is aq order
of graduates called doctors of philofophy. It may fepre to throw
fomc light perhaps on the ftate of philofophy in Svjreden, to mention
the manner in which they obtwn their degree. They firft
undergo an examination on the fubjed of divinity, and afterwards
on that of Latin. Having gone through thefe examinations,
they are examined a fecond time on the fubjedl of Latin, and Ibme
queftions arc put to them by all the ten prol^ors. They then defend
fome thefis of their own compolltion, and without any farther
ceremony are made dodors of philolbphy. Them, are two
printing ofhees in Lund.
The ftudents of the univcrfity, of Lund are in gen^ not of
the firft and richeft, but the poorer claflcs of fociety ; they had
the charader of being very riotous, and frequetrtly fhewed that
kind of unruly Ipirit by which, as I pudeiftand, the Eton and
Weftminftcr fcholars have upon feme . occafions diftinguiihed
thcmlclves. Of late, however, the manners of the Lundians have
become more gentle and refined, and that reftaiftorineis and defiance
on which they formerly prided themlelves, is gradually
foftened into decency and tranquillity, fuch as becomes the friends
of the mufts. . A foeiety or club has been eftnbliflied for purchafing
the pejrfodical ,pubUcatfons of foreign countries, among the
profefTors and ftuden(s,,which b^gs abot^ a fort of connedion that,
is .very advantageous to the former, and occupies their attention
U2 by
148 ,
-r
J)jr a rational atpuiement. The y^nity of fea, and an eafy
mode of intercourfe, enables the inhal;>itant^ of Luod to keep up
their acquamtance with Denmark and Germany, and to pbferve
and benefit by the -prc^efs ofliterature: in thefe countries.
In this, as in the other Swedifh univerfities, catalogues ip. Datin
are publifhcd oft^ fubje^ to be treated, and the books to be ex
plained and; eotnmented on by the different profeffo, afliftant
profeflinrs, and other teachers in .their le<ftures. It may be amufing
to our claibcal; readers to fee fome fpecimens of the Latin
adrertifements by which, in thofe lifb, the different mailers invite
not only regulw fludenblt but.it would feem every other perfon,
tp avail themfelves pf,tbtir Ipdbns and inllrndUons. i I have therefore
fubjoined a few of thefe notices, not only by the profeflbrs of
Lund, but thofe pf the two other umverfities.* The different
UNIVERSITY OT LUND.
Erie Guftaf lidbeck, hiftor. natur. & oecon. proL &c. &c. Praelectionibua
pubJicis brevi curfu mineralogico abfoluto, plantas officinales vivas variafque in
ceconomiS utiliffimas, herbas, arljores,' & fodeesj proponere in animum induxit.
Fiivatlm deliderandbus fe accommbdsbit. '
Matdneus Fremling, |diilof. theor. prof. reg. & otd. Pfyeholo^ani publice,
bora a. m. VIII. tradet. PHyatans opieratn ^rs^ptis lop^, Ic bntologie, bora
p. m. II. III. impendere ftatiiit.' Neqiid veto iis dei^iW qui celeb.- Kandum
plulofophSntem audire velint, fummam libti, qid Mcribitur Critii reintn Vrnu/t
propofiturus.
.
-
Ghriftopherus Porath, fttbcentdiio A^^^rn siradenibe ptiefbCtOs, Ipbttdet fe
libenter fatisfactoruA omnibus iis ex fiudiod jtiventiite, qm fuami in arte nobili
arraa feliciter tractandi, & ftrenue vibfandi ex^timt manuductionem.
'
UNIVERSITY OF UPSALA. v
Petrns Nicolaus ' Cbriftiemin, phil; et I. U. Doctor* logicesef tafeb^jrlices
profefibr, dec. &c. Fundamenta et elementa theologie naturalisi'mediMb ibe.

' ' thicoTHROUGH

SWEDEN. *49
ledorers arc gehehdly abfolved in the fpace of half a year ; fo that
there are two oourfes in the whole year. The firft courfe begins
on the ift of February and concludes on the 1 0th of June; the
fccond commences the ift of OAober and ends the lOth ofDe>
cember.
The celebrated univerfity of Up&la was founded under the go*
vernment of the admihiftrator Sten Sture the elder, in 1346>
with the permiffion of Pope Sixtus IV. on the m6del of that of
Bologna, and with all the privileges of the univerfity of Paris.
. .
The mufes of Upfald betook themfclvcs to flight at the Reformation,
with the priefts of the Roman Catholic religion, but were
invited back by Guftavus Vafa, who confeited on the univerfity
thico-poicmica publicis lectionibus hoc anno tradere conftitmt
; privatam quoque
operam auditoram deiideiiis accommodabit.
Nicolaus Rtfteli artis faltandi magifter, mulicos ad fonos docebit juniores non
niodo aptc componere pedes, fed et decoros geilu$ corporifque babUum politiorem
indueie,
UNIVERSITX OF ABO.
Gabriel Ericus Haartman, M. D. n^d. practr profeiE, Arc. Medicinam
pppularein publicis lectipnibus ea explicare conftituit roethodo, ut non minus
artis f^utaris alumnis, quam etiam aliis parum renim curioiis fiat utllis
:
privatim
autemr patholpgiam geperaiem, et fpecUiem alternis pprtractabit lioris.;
Georgius Danpt, linguae Galiicae magifter, diebus mercurii et raturni bora If.
p. m. librum cui titulus Les Avantures de Teieniaque, publice interpretabitur
:
fludlofis.pnyatiRi in lingua CalUcae jpftitutionem defiderantibus baud defutnrus.
plavus,Levin^ aitis ialtatpri^ magiilpr, operate fuain in avle faltandi expetenlibus
facilem ct Mefeflum fc praebebit ducero.
Johannes Tborberg, director roufica^ et organ!, ad templum cdthedrale Aboenfe,
muiicam publicis eoncentibus, dfebus mpreuni & faturnii, horfi 111. p. m.
habendHs ijpcebit
:
privatam quoquc: ihiUtutipnem expetentibu^ fuam baud dene*
gabhopocain*
where
150 TRAVELS
where he received his education fb many additional privileges,
and endowed it fo liberally, that he has been juftly called its fecond
founder. Bcfidcs erefting a large building at his own expence,
he fettled On the uriiverfity his patrimonial edate of Vala,
by which donation the falaries of the profelTors were augmented,
and one hundred artd fifty iludents maintained. His example
was followed by his fuccefilbrs, as well as by private individuals
;
and as the funds have become more confiderable, the number of
fcholars fupported by them has encreafed in proportion. It reflcifls
great credit upon this univerfity, that the prOfefTors faithfully
apply the revenues to the ol^edb of thdr original deftination, viz.
the improvement and difiufion ofknowledge. At the head of the
univerfity is a chancellor, who is always a perfon of the firft
rank and confequence, and generally one of the royal family. The
dignity is conferred by the elefticto ofthe profcflbrs, and confirmed
by his majefty. The chancellor regulates and explains the ftatutes,
compofes any material differences or difputes that may
happen, and delivers all pditioiiS and mefiages firom the univerfity
to the king. In his abfehee. Ibis 'pl^n^ is lupplied by the archbifliop
of Upfala. From the body eff the profeffors, orfrom thofe of
them that arc capable of the office'from their fituation in the univerfity,*
is annually chofen a rcSibr magnificust who is - a Ipccics of
magifirate that cart punifli the ftudents for fraall delinquencies by
fine or imprifbhment, and whofc jurifdi^on over them extends
fix leagues around the city. The prdfeffors afc exccedingiy nu-
* Tliefe are called viri rectorales. 1
merous.
THRaUXSH SWEDEN. 151
merous. In the branch of theology there are fix profellbrs, three
aiBftant profeflbrs, and thfee private teachers or vtagifiri docentes
:
of law, two profeffors and two afSftant profeflbrs ; of medicine,
three profeflbrs and two affiftant profeflbrsr .of philosophy, ten
profelTors and twenty affiftantprofclTors; ofgenteel cxcrcifcs, feven
under the name of artium equ^rium et cultiorum magtftri, \\z. a
riding mailer, a French mailer, a dancing mailer, a drawing mailer,
a mufic mailer, a fencing mailer, and a mailer of the German and
the Engliih languages. Concerning fome of the profeiTors of Upfala,
1 believe the following information majr be relied upon
:
Neikter, royal profeiTor ofeloquence and poetics, has. the reputa*
tion of having read and remembered an immeniity ofhiilory without
being a good hiilorian. He can read and remember, but not
digeil and combine. He has adopted the philofophy of Kant, and
is a zealous propagator of the new dodrine.
Afzelius, profeiTor of chemiilry, is in Sweden eileemed a fine
genius, but faid to be extremely indolent. He is one of the ableil
fupporters of the antiphlogiilic chemiilry.
Aurivillius, librarian and profeflbr of humanity, or Utera hutnaniores,
is remarkable for the excels of his bigotry, and the impediments
he conilantly endeavours to raife, as far as his opportunitics
and abilities extend, to the advancement of knowledge.
In dired. Oppoiition to Aurivillius, ilands Tingftadius, D. D,
profefibr of oriental languages, who has laboured with confiderable
fucceis to introduce into the univdiity liberal Sentiments on fubjeds
of religion.
- -Chrlilopher
152 TRAVELS
Chrlftophcr Dohl, profcflbr of Greek, learned in hb profcffion,
and a man of fine taile : he is efteemed one of the bell latinills
in Sweden.
Abraham Almquift, teacher of theology, is a man of a very pliilolbphical
turn of mind, and has clofely followed the progrefs of
knowledge even in her lateft Reps. Almquift, though a teacher
of dreology, takes great delight in propagating all the modern difooveries
of philofophy.
Hoijer, aftiftant profeftbr of moral philolbphy, is very accurately
acquainted with KknVa lyfteth, and efteemed one of the moft
acute and difeeming fealbners in' Sweden. He has publilhed a
book to Ihew the poftibiliQr cd* cOnftruRing philolbpKical i^eas,
.
and thus forming an tmiverfal language.
In the catalogue of their lectures atUplala for 1705, 1 noticed
that Mr. Hoijer undertook to unftdd the principles of moral obli<
morum estponere conahitur. In the
lame catalogue Daniel Boethius, profellbr of ethics and politics,
engages to explain the fundamental principles of moral philolbphy,
and to given philofophical accOdtU: of moral Ibiitiments.* The
attention that is paid to moral {dtilolbphy, and in general to plychology,
in the univerlity of Up&la, will riot apjpear lefs manifeft
from- an advertilement by the aftiftrint profeftbr of moral pfailo-
Ibphy, Mr. Steinhammer, who iritiiriates that he irieaiis lb alTume
for the theme of his leftures, the hiflorjr ofman. Nothing cm he
* FundipneiiU philofophix moralii craet, ideas moralH jditlolbfdtke enodatas
exp&nel. #
'
' more
THROUGH SWEDEN. r53
more profound than on the fubjc6^ of ethics to take a general view
ofthe fcntimente, pafiions, and principles of mankind, as unfolded
and difpjaycd in hiftory, the great theatre of dilTcdion in moral
anatomy.
The pmfeflbrfhips of Upfala are in the gift of the king. , The
falaries annexed to them are from ieventy to one hundred pounds
per anniun. During each term the profefTors ^vc four public
Icftures in the week, gratis, and the fame number of private lectures;
for the latter they are paid by the tihidcnts, though the
money that is given is very trifling. A profcflor who has continued
in office fl>r thirty years is allowefl.to retire with: the title
meritus, and enjoys his falary duiriiig life. In former times the
univerfitics often were crowded with thpi^nds of Rudents : even
fo late as the year 1 730, that of Upfala contained above.two thoufand.
It is a finking proof of fome gr^ revolutionvin the fentiments,
views and purfuits of the Swedes,; that the annual number
of ihidenta at Upfala does not now on an average exceed five hundred.
They dn, not inhabit any diflinfti.C(fllege8, there being no
buildings for tHcir accommodation, but Iqdge, as at Edinburgh and
Glafgow and ^me other proteflant univerfities, in the town.
They attend the Ifdhnes which arc given by the &ver^ profcflbrs
either a>;their own hQufes,.or the pubiin hafls.impropriated to fuch
purpofes. l^fides the fpyalJdpimdiarim or pimfloners, or* as they
ate called, bu)>far4, there are other poor Undents, who are affiflred
in thtir expeaoh by fimds eftablifhed by private perfons, but gc-
: igi
nerally .allotted to family names, or the natives of particular pro-
VoL. I. X vmces.
154 TRAVELS
vitices. The hlgheft of thefe IcholaHhips amount to the value of
iourteen or fifteen pounds per annum. The ftudcnts of Upiala
are not given to riot and rudeneis, but in general purfiie their
fiudies with decency and diligence. This univerfity is not with>-
out jufik* accounted the, firll fen;tinary ^the North, and has pro*
duced^from /to , time men. eminent in
^
every branch of the
fbiencetk -The fiuneus botanical garden is fmall,.but laidout with
Judgment./' ^ ,
' The univerfi^ ief^lH? was founded in ld40, by queen Chriftina,
andendnwed with the fame plivileges 8S_ th^ of Upfala. Of
theology there are'^thtee profi;frors, ai^d. one. afiliilant profefibr : of
law,, one profefibn ofmedi(4>tei prnfefiTors, tmd two ^ftam
profefibrs : of phU(d^>hyi nine, profefiTprs, , and three afliftant profefibrs.
In the fatmlty of thenb^^heK ami befides the profelfors,
two teachers, vt mag^n do^fottf i in Jthat of philobphy, befides
the pmfefibrs, nine teachotSr:
;
Pfolegant an.d genteel accomplilhments,
there are four profefiom, or ^niu^ evhiomm mqg0ri, viz. a
French mailer, w d^ing.nnaftqy a fencing m and a mufic
mailer.
On the Slwediih univerfitks in general, it ia to be obierved,
ift, That the number of profdSbrs, afiiilant proihilbrs and teachers,
called docentts, bears a greater proportion, if not miftaken,
tq the population of Sweden (which does hotf.exceed three
milUons) than that of any other country in JBurope, to the hum*
her of its inhabitants. 2dly, That although |ioiemiCid' divinity
and the logics of Arillotic, with correfponding and nugatiory difputations.
THROUGH SWEDEN. 155
mutations, ftill maintain their ground, yet much of induilry and
genius sure employed in the culthation of real feience, and the pur*
^it of objeds which are of great importance and utility. 3d< Th^
a very proper degree of eafe and familiarity appears to fubfift be*
tween thofe who teach and thofe who arc taught ; and that the
former are ever ready and ddirous of conveying information in the
moft perfpicubus and efiedual manner to their auditors: they invite
them to Rate their doubts and difficulties, to put queflions,
and even to name any author they wilh to be explained, or fubjeft
they wilh to be difeuffed.* 4th, It is ^dculiar, as far as I have
been informed, to the Swedifh univerfities, to admit fencing and
dancing into the liumber of the polite or Uberaharts. In this the
Swedes are in the right. Both are evidently reducible to principles
and theory, and carii therefore claim the title of art. The dignity
of dancing, which may jufily be reckoned among the imitative
arts, as well as mufic ahd painting, is very -aldy maintained and
illuftrated by the late celebrated' Dr. Adam Smith, in his pofthu*
mous Eilays bn Philofbphical Subjeds. It is oblerved by the
Doctor, among other particulars oh this lUtjedt, that the c6nne<R*
* III almofi all the adverti(ea>ents in theannual catalogue we meet with fuch
dclar^ttojp|i part of tlie profcfljjrs as theib: Privatim ea trattabit quae
ftudiis auditoYum convenennt^ rtiva&m opcrftin auditorotti defid^^ accommddabit*^--^^*
Nec non deSderi^ ;CQflqimilitpaun:i in qgeteris {ludii hiftorici
M lociS; ^Ut.pQ^ri^ privatim, fal^sfa^it**^M In explicalione facri alicujus libri
** hiftorici, quern adpelierint auditbrel/'ift^dbra^ JuVentbtl infthri^ ciinaU
Aubtorem GH^ciini defideraweiint futtfi i^udito^ explkabir Chc-
Hi^m,docen8^ de^(!i;i|slion. ^Q|ppulitonqm omnii qua potcl^ diligentia et
fidelitatc, fuam accommoJabit opcram/ 6cc. dec. -
X2 ipg
I5 TRAV^ . .
ing principle between mufic and dancing is what the andents
called rythmus, or what we call rime and meafure. sriu There
are few if any countries in Europe in which eminence in literature
and fcience has been fo much noticed by the court as in
Sweden. The order of knighthood and other marks of dilrinction
have been beftowed on ihiibrent profeflbts to a degree of almoft
profusion. . Ih generd the literary chata^er in Syr^n is
held in high reljp^ and eftimarion. It is an objed of ambition
with men of buftnefs in ealy and prolperous circuntftances, and
even with the nobility And gentry. Here it may be mentioned
that Ouilavus III. towards the end of the year lyys, conduced
the prince royal, the preient king of Sweden, to the univerlity of
l/plala, and allifled at all the public, and the grmteft part of the
private exetcifes performed by the young prince during a Ray of
Rx weelH. The ardour and fucoefi with which he applied to his
ftudim at the early age of eight or nine years, was highly gratifying
to the kitig, who, in order to ^miliarize him with the people,
whom he was bora to govern, and to glve.him mi early.knowledge
of the kingdom, had already accompanied hina oyer fev^ral of the
provinces.
CHAPTER
THRolJiG^ Sweden. *57
CHAPTER IX,
The anmdl %chibition of Figures at StockholmAcademy of Painting
and SculptureAccount of fome diftingutflied Painters, and
their ProduSiensSome Works of the Dilettanti.
ft
*
.
''
TTT^HE exhibition of pi^ures at Stockholm every year, in the.
month of February, is a fubjed of elegant amufement as
well as inlhuflioh. It is open to every one, and nothing is paid
for admittance. Here the gentlemen and ladies of Stockholm
alTemble in crowds, in order to encourage, by their approbation
and applaule, the i^rts of genius. It is no linall praile to lay of
this colle^ion, that it is well worthy to be teen by foreigners of
every country as well as Swedes, Here is perceived, at one view,
die Rate of the' arts In Sweden; and you are enabled not only to
form fome opinion of the powers of the artifts, but alfo of the general
taRe and judgment of the nation. Every one declares his
fentiments .with regard to the pieces without referve, though there
be always firnie iady or gentleman who takes the lead, and direRs
the genera! tone of praile or cenfure. What is not a little curious,
the painters themlehres are frequently prelent, and very bufily employed
in attempts to guide the public judgment. I noticed one
/ artiR
158 TRAVfeMr
artift who 'i^orced the attention of the -whole cotl^ny to his own
pi^ure, and talked about.it to eVitiy one, and of nothbg el^. He
was a moft conflant and puiidu^ attendant at the exhibitit^, and
regaled him^If with the eulbj^uths whiBh'he dctbrted from Others.
This exhibition is at the "Ihbbe appreciated to'the academy ^o^
painting and fculpture. ^here are nine pim&l^rs belbi^ng to
this inftitudon, and about four himdredftulients.^'
diRributcs annually three fii^-rate and thre^&tondary prizes.
The pupils who ^ew the greatbft bf gehius ate ient to
travel in France and Italy at the cxpehce ofthe'aeadcmy. There
are five apartments, imall infizer atid'^Veiy.ldW injriie ceiling, in
which the piBturesareput ^p with but little grace br C^piiety. In
the middle one, which may he called the bnlSchamber, becaufe it
is through this that you.enter into all the reft, the piftureslhppofcd
to pofteft the .Icaft merit are generally placed and ^fo the drawings
and defigns of the fcholars. The chamber bn the left ftde of the
hall as you enter, is deftined for the reception of the firft>rate pieces,
as that on the right of the antichamber .is for that offtatues, b^o*
relievos in plaiftcr, and thc 'delignstif the' ichblars.-The'ftcond
room is filled with a confuftd aftemblagb' of painringSi defigns '.in
architecture, .plans of public edidees, with Which are intermixed
a number of portraits .and landli^peS. Hear td this af^ftment is
a cabinet containing plans and models bf nbw iriVehtiona,- M:spro<
je^s in tn<ilbh^lcs. In ^this e^ihitidh, nbt biily the j>todttdtons
of native Swe^s are difplayed, but alfi) thofe bf fUch themhers as
arc foreigners by birth : nabrebver, ' the works or
^ ajfociatet.
THRQt^ SWEDEN. 159
c^ffhctaiest wh<H,tlio,ugh they belong to the academy^ have not the
feme privileges as members ; and of ftrangers, that is to fay, perfons
who, without being either in the number of members or afibciates,
obtain leave from the prefident to exhibit their perform
ances. The number of pieces difplayed at the exhibition of 1 8oo>
which 1 faw, amounted to one hundred and twenty-nine* Every
picture was numbered, and the name of the painter marked at the
bottom. Towards the clofc of the exhibition, which lafts only
fifteen days, a printed catabgue is publifhed, in which all the
pidlures are arranged- according to their order and degree : 3 ft. Of
Swedifh members; 2A, Of foreign members;. 3d. Of the aflbelates;
4ih\ 0& iillaggningy or artifts, who were allowed to exhibit
their works without belonging to the academy. I fhall obftrvc
the fame order while I take a view of the moft diftinguilhcd
pieces, or thofc that dre^ moft attention in this exhibition, whetlicr
jufUy or othetwiic*'.
SWEDISH MEMBEBTS;
. Mr. J^hn Tbbic Sergei, whofe name is well known-among ar^
tifts inwall pa;!^ of Eur9pc : he is to be reckoned among the firftrate
fculptors, End the only one in the North of any great merit.
He ftudied at; Rome, and is ^ne of thofe who has done moft honour
to modcip fchopi : he, has executed feveral works of
great value; N9t Ipug !igo he fimlhed a ftatuc in brpnise of Guftavus
dlL ; it is qf colpffal fize, and to be placed on a pcdeftal in
front of the -caftlc, oppofitc, to the bridge that leads to the admifelty.
t(Jd TRAVitLS
miralty. His moft admired produdlion is hisgKmpe of Cupid and
Pfychc, which combines the utmoft beauty of form, and the moft
cxquifitc expreffion of fentiment, in the happieft manner ; itk
defigned for the palace of Haga. Unfortimatcly Mr. Sergei is no
longer to be numbered among the artifts of Sweden: he has
wholly retired from bufinefs, and from the world. Ovci^owered
by a deep melancholyj hti lives in a ftatc bf perfcfl: tblitudc, and is
not to be feen by any one befides his own domeftic.
Mr. Charles Fred. Breda. This portrait painter muft be known
in England : he was bfdught up to the art under Sir Jolhua Reynolds,
and is ftill an imitator Of hiS manner. Mr. Breda is happy
in feizing and taking likncflcs : he poffcffes the art of ^ving an
hiftorical hir to his piftures by means of the acceftbries of architedture,
landfcape, and drapery. His colouring ' is brilliant, but
perhaps too glowing : his attitudes are ibmetitnes a little unnatural
and overftrained, his designs not always corredl, nor is his drapery
cafy. He Works a great deal, and very rapidly; his pictures arc
often, ftridly fpcaking, nothing more than iketches. In his perfonal
deportment and mariners he is vOry mild, amiable, and. not
in the leaft aiTuming.' He has a oolle^ion of pidhires, ibme of
them very fine ones.
Mr. Nic. Lafrenfen, -a painter well known in France, whe;^
many of his pi^ures have been engraved. He is a very pleafihg
artift, said hip>pyin his ideas; but Ibtnewhat of a mamierift of
die Frcndiifthotd. '
,
Mr. EliasMardn^ a lahdfcape painter: he would be an lilfi
torical
THROUGH SWEDEN. ,6,
torical painter; we may apply to him the faying, ne ftitor
ultra crepidam. Before the arrival of Mr. Belanger, he was the
firil landfcape painter in Sweden. I (peak only of his piAures in
oil colours: for> as. to the art of painting in body colours, he Is
ignorant of even its firft principles. Of all the artifts that I know
in Europe, Mr. Marda is the happiell: in his folly. He is fo per*
fedly fatisfied that he is the firft painter in Europe of every kind,
that the love of glory and renown, a palfion attended often
with many painful anxieties and ftrugglcs, occafions no other
than the moft pleafing ftnlations in his breaft. If he Ihould but
touch the canvas with his pencil, there would prelently appear,
as he imagines, fome embryo of fiiperior excellence. He makes
no fcruple to infinuate very plainly, that his own produdions arc
the fiiil in the uniyerfe : be puts them on a level wi$h thofe of
the admired artifts recorded in hiftory ; and concludes his pane*
gyriq on himfelf by obierving, that he alone of the great ^inters
is now alive, and deploring the loft that threatens the arts by his
advanced age. He is a good*natured man, and as much difpofed
to be complaiiant to others, as well pleafed with himfelf, if they
will only hear his prattle. There are fome who not only have
patience to do this, but find great amufoment in it ; while others
of a more foyious and fovere turn either dclpifo his vani^, or la*
ment the weakneft of human nature. IBs laft produdions are in
every reiped execrable; but he, has,done foine things^which, for
fo northerly an artift, pofleft confiderable .merit, The chief excellency
of his bdft pieces confifta man agreeable harmonioufneft
VoL, I. Y .throughout
i 62 THAyELS
thoughbut the whole; and a nice attention to the laws of per*
fpcdlivc.
. Mr. Deprez, firfl achitcA to the king, well known, as I Ihould
fuppofe, in England, where he pafled fome time, and where he
excited fome attention. He perhaps is the greateft feene painter
for the decoration of theatres in Europe. He has a thorough
knowledge of hiftorical feenery, the contrail of light and lhadc,
the effeSs produced by the different lights of the fun and the
moon by peripc^ivc, and various maphinery. The ricbnels of his
mind and imagination is alloniihing. His maflerpiece is the decorations
for the opera of Guftavus Vala : in this, the ftyle of architedure
for the palace of ChrilHema is well conceived; the different
decorations of the tents of Gullavus and Chrillicma arc
fuperb. The dreams of Chriftiema are worthy of all the ftores of
his exuberant fancy, His greateff difficulty is^ moderate
and bring dpwn the conceptions of his warm and highly exalted
. imagination to the fmallnej^ of the hze. of the theatre of Stockholii}.,
^
impoffible to fix on a man mOre calculated to give
falisf^ipn to Guftavus 111. or between w^fe mind and that
mtmarchs th^re was gmater affinity. The king> when in a highfpirited
and communicative mpod^ was vvqnt to fay to thofe about
bim>i ' V isnohody who has fancy but myfeif and
|5q)rcz. It is much tp be regretted that this, ^eat man fo
.well^ljt^.tQ difpUy to ady^tage his genius arid talents on an
. extenfiye)thea,tre,. ftiould be buried in Sweden, where, no longer
pm^l^yed the.ffie^Pi hc,f<;|l,rccly can contrive to exift, and
where
through SWEDEN. 163
where ignorance, and cabal, and envy, have borne him down, perhaps
never to rife again. If Guftavus III. had lived, this man would
have probably coft Sweden feveral millions of rix-dollars. It was
he who finilhed the delign of the new palace at Haga ; the groundwork
alone, on which it is now built, has coft an enormous fum to
fo poor a country. Projeft was concerted after projeft, and the
reftlcfs and exalted imaginations of thofe two enthufiafts (the king
and Deprez) muft have exhaufted the public treafury. Mr. Deprez,
perceiving the impoftlbiliiiy of finding employment in a
country where the finances are fb nanow as in Sweden, and where
every thing is under the reign of intrigue, gives himfelf up for the
prefent to the reveries of imagination ; and the greater part of his
dcfigns in architefture are truly caftles in the air. He amufes his
Icifurc with drawing plans of edifices, more magnificent and
fumptuous^an the ancient pyramids of Egypt : he forms projefts
of piles and monumehts a thoufand times more Cxpenflve than
any recorded in the hiftory of the world. He has lately conceived
the idea of a pyramid, thte bafe of which could not be fixed any
where elfe than m the deferts of Anibia, in which ftatues of aH
the great men in the world, of ^ety pollible kin^of Celebrity hr
diftin^ion, are to be depofTted'.'
'" He admits himfelf, that in order
to carry this defigh into execution, iV'wCuId bC indi'i^nfibfy neceftary
for all il^vereign pow^ tojoin in dne fbciety, or club, for
defying tbe expeiices. MriTt^ptez is alfb an luftorilal painter
;
but his cblouiM arc wretched, ' f hb factures
of na^ engagements ; in fbit^ bf perceive nothing
Y2 but
164 TRAVELS
blit a fingle (hip in front of the piece, which covers and hides all
*
the othei^
Mr. Lewis Belanger, firft painter to the king of Sweden; After
refiding. fcveral years In Italy, where he applied himfelf to the
ftudy of arcbitehtre, he went to and continued fome time in
England ; whefe there is Hill to be feen a number of prints tiaken
from his pictures in. body colours. He is a landfcapc painter of
no fmall merit : his touch is light, and produces a pleafing effect r
he has a good imagination, .and makes an excellent u(c of body
colours. There is no artift in Sweden that excels him in his line
of painting. He is now engaged in a very interefting work,,
namely, a piSurefque Tour thorough Svbedtn, which is engraved
under his own directipn) and of which fome plates have already
appeared at Stockholm, by. an engraver whom heicarried with
him. ^Uher, ofthe name of .Girdier, .On his arrlvafih. Sweden
and prefentatioii to the king, he was honoured with the title of
firft painter in his majeftys fervice; and, I believe, he has ob> .
tained permiffion to .mahe drawings criT all the portsin Swedrm
;
which will form a very curious collection, efpeeially-as they are
done by the hand of ib excellent an artift. His diftinguifhed <
merit, foon after bis arrival, excited envy and railed him a number
qf enemies. , ,

Mr. Weftmtiykr. There was notlring pf this painter in' the exhibition
ofthe year mentioned (Feb. 1 800) r but there,had been
an Ariadne by him in that offtie preceding yeaa.^ which was much
talked of, and confirmed the reputation he had already aci^uired-
He
THROUGft SWEDEN. 165
He is the bcft portrait painter in Sweden after Breda, and in the
minuter parts of execution he fometimes furpafles him. The bcft
of his portraits that I have feen, is that of Goveraor Uglaft. Al*
though the figdre be ftift, as indeed all his piftures are, it'pofteftes
much animation and ezprefiion. The hands arc done with the
pencil of a maftcr ; and the velvet drapery is worthy of the fatin
of the Chevalier Vanderwerf. His Ariadne of 1 799 was unnatural,
ill defigned, and finilhed in a flovenly and taftelcft manner.
The .nakedneft of the figure was the only cimumftance that flattered
the eye, and drew the applaufe of the fpectators.
FOBEiaN MEMBEBS.
The works offoreign members do hot, ftrictly fpeaking, enter
into an account of the ftate of the arts in Sweden ; but as they
appeared at the exhibition, and as fome of thofe members are
refident in Sweden, I cannot well avoid ikying fomethiiig of their
productions.
Mr. Inel, director of the royal academy of arts at Copenhagen.
This painter makes a noife in the North that is incredible ; he is
looked upon as a prodigy. Of portrait painters he is confidered
as the ne plus ultra, and his pictures are regarded as models of
the art.. The encomiums beftowed on this man appeared to me
fo exceffive and di%ufting, that I cannot help introducing in this
place the remarks that were mado on him'hy a great Italian connoifteur,
who had feen many of his
'
piochfCtiohs, and was perfectly
acquainted with his manner. " Inel, Obftrvcd he, " is
' " in
i66 TRAVELS
in my eyes of all portrait painters the moft difagrecablc. In re*
fpcct of defign, he is indeed tolerably correct ; but in every
other particular his inferiority is decided. His compoiitions arc
** without tafte ; his light and Ihade bad ; his colours cold, bard,
" and without the leaft gradation of (hades ; the effeAs difagree*
** able ; his refemblances, though happy enough and to common
eyes ftiikin^ are nevertheleis wholly devoid of dignity, and his
** contoun iharp and harlh : he is but very imperfefUy acquainted
** with the laws of perfpedtive ; his figures are mean, and hU dra-
pety ftiff and conilraihed.
Mr. Lampi. The Duke and Duchefs of Sudermania being at
Vienna, had tWr portruts there by this artift, and lent
them tb the exhibition at Stockholm. Although Lampi had not
by any means''beftbwed particular pains on - thefe pidures, and
thbx^h they even Riew marks of conlhraint and hurry, it may be
confidently affirmed that 'thefe two portraits eclipfed all the reft
in the exhibition, and proved the ffiriking difference between the
fouthem and northern fchodl. There was in thefc two pidures
a noble thiyefty and a happy imitation of nature. The compoiition
was pleating, the colouring vivid, the effed fenfible, the
light atul Ihade loft, the contours well rounded, and the ftrokes of
the pendldrawn with the exad aina of an artiffc
' Ahhmy Bbili, a miniature pairiteri He is a luitive of Venice,
anc
w^lih I
of great
Among
came to refide' at Stdekhedm only for a time ; dunng
rfiniihed a coididerable hhmber of portraits, all of them
THROUGH SWEDEN. 167
Among the works of the dilettanti there were Ibme engravings
by Count Mornerthey were happy imitations of the German

(lyle of me%%o tintOi which he learnt during his relidencc at

Vienna, where he was in the luit of the Duke of Sudermania.
Mademoifelle de Pollett, maid of honour to the queen dowager,
had a landfcape done in Indian ink, iketched in a very free and
happy manner. This lady is one of the beft educated and moft
accomplilhed women I met with in the Swedilh capital. She
is a native of Stralfund in Germany.
The two rivals in landfcape painting are, Colonel Skioldebrand
and Baron de Geer ; but there was none of their productions this
year in the exhibition. My prailes of the firft might have the
appearance of partiality, and I therefore will abftain from them,
however juftly they might bebeftowed; but I may venture to
fay of the fecond, that he has a delicate and pleafmg pencil ; that
he draws the figures in a lively and correA manner, thou^ he
has not fufficiently ftudied the great mafters ta have learnt the
true lhades of perfpedlive, and the general eSTeft of the whole.
I fhall enter no farther into any details; an4 indeed, there
would not be much to add on this lul^e^ which could interell
the reader. 1 will only naakc this general obfervation, that un*
dcr the prefent reign the fine arts in Sweden are fiit: from being
in a fiouriflui^ condition., T^uc talents are not em^
ployed, but, on the contrary, difcqturaged. Sergei, we have al
ready mentioned, has. retired under the preiTure of a deep melancholy.
Deprez is no' longer en^ged at the theatre ; and Belanger
too
t6S TRAVELS
too has fallen a victim to jealoufy, envy, and intrigue. In a
word, the arts are reduced to a (late of monopoly, in the hands
of a few who know how to impofe upon the minds of their
countrymen, by the machinations ' of fecret cabal and open
quackery.
CHAPTER
THROUOIf SWEDEN. i$9
CHAPTER X
Tribute of Vroafe to Mr. Coxe for his Account of Sweden ; and for
his Ei^ernefs in colleElh^ InformationA Hint ghen to Travellers-
The general ImpreJJion made on the Authors Mind, of the
State of Sweden in rejj^l to Arts and Sciences ; Commerce and
Manufa&ures ; and civil FrudomThe Ufe of Sledges in Winter,
and the Advantages derived from itThe di^erent Kinds of
Sledges ; and tlu Roads made through the SnowDeparturefrom
Stockholm ; and Journ^ to QriflehamnFajfage by Haga and
VlriefdalDefcription oftlu Gardens of Haga in WinterFace
of the Country between Vlrifdal and GrijlidumnFoxes met with
on the RoadWant of Inns or Public-Hou/esProvifions of the
Peafants that attend TravellersCharaSer, Manners, and domefiic
Condition <fthe Peafantry,
TF there be no wtelledual fubje^, however abftrad and refined,
^ bnit muft neceiTarily be attenttvdy ferutinized and viewed in
varioua relations ; how much more indifpenfibly requifite is it,
that diverfi^ of tours and extenfive travels (hould be undertaken
by difierent individuals, for the diiplaj of manners, the.knowIedge
of arts, and that the book of nature, beft infiiruiRor, ihould be
o
'
wide fpread before mankind. Amidft die vaR and almoft infinite
V Voi,. I. Z variety
* 7 TRAVELS
variety of matter prefented to our obfmation, we naturally attach
ourfclvcs to what is congenial with our own habits of thinking,
and our own purfuits and ftudies. It ought not to be the dcfign
or attempt in any new pilgrimage pf this kind, to fuperfede and
render ufele6 all that has preceded it. The regions of Scandina-^
via certainly open a wide field for various ipeculations and difeoveries.
The mines of Sweden have given birth to many literary
compolitions, and will yet indubitably produce many- more. Its
navigation, commerce, revenue, population, government, police,
and internal regulations for the good order and convenience of
fociety; the public works, edifices, and.charities; tlie fiate of
agriculture, the army, the tvy, luid the various other objeds that
conititute the proper fubjeds . of hiftorical/works ^d ftatifiical
enquiri^aH thefe particulars have been, detuled with tolerable
accuracy by many travellers before me. It would npt be confident
with my plan to give a datiftical acqoupt of Sweden, even could
I preluni.e or fhppolc th*t,my reader would
,
thank me for being
more minute in my information than Mr. Cqxe has been pr be
;
pleafed, were I to fwell my pages with more copious extra^ls from
the Swedilh biftory than this , traveller has furnifhed^ It is ajui);
tribute to Mr. Ck>xe, and which 1 readily acknowledge, that he at
this day poflefics in Sweden the reputation of an indefatigable
enquirer and colle^or of eveiy ppifibie information on a variety
of fpl^cdsj Whatey Jcfirn from any one hje noted
ddvyn in hk journal, under, fo
..
maid of m^riais w|iich he ^us gathered, I^Oire yirerp^i^^ thot

^
' had^
THROtJCft S^^DEN.
had already met the public eye, it muft not be thought that
Mr. Coxe publilhed them again as a plagiarift or compiler ; but
it arofc from his not knowing, or from overlooking their exiftence
in the literary World. The rcpiiblication of them, by confirming
what others had noticed before him, gave an additional
valae to his work, which isone ofthe richcft mifccllanics that ever
has appeared under the name of travels. This tcftimony to the
induftry of Mr. Coxe, it would be ungenerous in me to withhold
;
although I, as 'well as all other travellers y^ho came after him,
fuffcred, in thofe places where he had been, fotine trifling inconveniencies
from the ardour of his zeal in purfuit of information.
I was told by different pcrfons, that his eagernefs and impatience
to obtain inftruAioh on fcvcral points of public oeconomy, for the
improvement of hb fliatiflical tables, was fo great, that he was
always ready to put quefoions, but never to anfwer any. The
Swedes naturally expe^ed that a Arranger Would contribute to
their entertainmerit, as they were willing to facilitate his labours :
but Mr. Coxe, I was told) declined all free and communicative
converfationj and was intent 'folely on his own private views of
making a publication. He did not hefitate to requcA: gentlemen
to colleift materials for him, and to favour him with their ftatcmerits
in 'Writing. All this might be cxcufablc md even laudable
in a philoiopher, yet it was riot quite ftti^adory to the
people whom he vifitcd : they' wiflied to have tlicir own curiolity
in fome mcafiire gratified, by an'^iinterc^arigO of information:
tx]^flied fomelhiirtg riwre frdm^ Engiifh travr^"^
Z2 than
17a TRAVtiiS
than to un'derg6 i mere examination, vrepe frequehtiy
mentioned to me, as foon aa^ the firft civilitlw of reception
had paiTcd^ and I cotifidered it ais a premonitibn to tnyfclf,
and did not fail to take die hint, as dry itaderS wilt readily conceive
and believe, frond thb paucity of ftitiftidal fubjeds that I
have touched oh, in cOmpari&n with the' vaHofe' aiwJ precife' details
of Mr. Coxe. This hint, which I took my&lf, I throw out
for the benefit of future" traveller.
'>
The flate of Sweden, and particularly that of the capital, has
left this general imprcfiioh on my miiid, that a greater progrcls
has been made in' the ilhiehdes hnd arts, both liberal arid mechanical,
by the Swedes; than by ahy other natbn ftraggting with
e(^ual dif^vanhiges of fnil and climate, tmd labouring under the
difcduiagement of Ititehial cbhvntfidns atid* external aggrelfions,
frbm proud^ podraful, ahd bverbearlhg' neighbours. Their commerce,
ail tHih^ cbhlideitd, atid their mahufattures are in a
fiouriihih'g flate; ' TKc' Ipmt bf the people; under various bhanges
unfavourable to libaty, remains yet hhbmkch; The ^verhment
is ftill bhiiged In fome dej^e to reijpeift the public opinion. There
is rnuch res i to thb naii^t ^mirhs bf ihdivi^^^ jUiHce
is tempered with mercy, ahd gieat attehtiori is ihewn in their
holpitais and othef'infiitntibUS tb the ilbKition of the poor and
hetplefs. l^rom the infiuehCe of the bbdh; 'among a'^icki livC^^^^
and aSiVe race bf then, priVate inthgtle add cabal hatCilo a great
de^ee, cf^ ifttok every departlhfent oftbciCty ;lhdtb&trwhat I
ttic j^fchtettifui^^ hlaihc, ttr of ia*t^^i%bf that
country.
THROUGH SWEDEN. 173
countiy. The reiburcds of a Hate are chiefly three
;
population,
revenue, and territory. The firfl two are not conflderable in
Sweden ; the laft is great in extent, though not fo in its immediate
value ; but the vaft extent of territory itfelf is an objedl of
importance. . Land and fcas, however fterile and rude, conllantly
become more fertile and ufeful, as the cdurfc of fcicnce
and art advances^as the French fay, Toujours va la terre aubon.
Art fubdues natural difliculties and difadvantages, and
finds new ufes for materials of every defeription : and, finally, it
may be juftly obferved that, in the very rudenefs of the natural
elements, and in their poverty, the Swedes have a pledge and
fccurity for civil freedom and political independence.
It is deemed a very great calamity in Sweden, and one not lefs
heavy than a bad harvefl;, if the winter be fuch as to prevent the
ufe of fledges, becaufe it is by means of thefc that bulky commodities,
.namely, iron, wood, grain, and other.articles, are conveyed
from one place to another. Winters, however, fo mild that
fledgu cannot be uled, Ibmetimes will, happen ; then the communicatbn
is limited, and commercial intcrcourfe confined : for the
.highways are by no means fufficient for the purpofts of travelling
and carrying goods : whereas, with a fledge you may proceed on
Jhe fn.ow, tbrough .
forefts and rnatihes, acrofs rivers and lakes,
without any impediment or interniption; It is on account of
this facility of tranfportiqg nterchandize the ice, that aU the
great fairs in. Swcdpn Finl^id are held ip flite winter feafon.
iNbr is it an uncommon thing j|eafants tp undertake journeys,
174 TRAVELS '
ncys, with whatever they have got for the market, of three or
four hundred Englifli' miles. They hive been' khoWn to travel
with their fledges about two hundred miles in ten or twelve days.
As there is generally no other mode oftravelling in Sweden, or in
the North, during the winter, than by mOans of fledges, the variety
ofthem is. fo great, that when the time amved deflined for
us to purfijc our jourriey northwmrd, our variety of choice of fcveral
kinds was not a little perpICxingt ^hey were not only different
in ^ornameoLt and fotm, but alio in their conRrudtion and
manner -of accommodating the traveller. When a perlbn undertakes
a long journey in an unufual manner, his inrudence never
fuffers him to believe that enough has been done i and embarralTments
are cncrea&d through an Over anxious multiplication of
the mcafurcs . that are adopted for avoiding them. But there
were really fome circumflances that obliged us to be very circumfpeiR
and nice iH; .our felection of the Pledge that was to
carry us in our, , intended expedition from Stockholm towards the
north.; The great and covered fledges, built like the body of a
carriage, and placed on Ikates,' are certainly the warmeft, die moft
lQciab!lc, aod in:,every rclpcct the moft commodious ; but thefe
were by no means adapted to a Journ^ through Finland. Here
it, is napeflary to^ have fledges of a certain determinate width,
fucli as: can be drawn by ;one horlc .along the nairow roads, or
rabbet in.ithc^rut8 or tracks of this country. In maiiy places the
roads are bordered on both lides by fnow tq' the height of five
or fiX Icetjt ierming' as it. were: two r&mparts, between Which you
are
IHROUGH SWEDEN. 75
are to move along. The little open fledges, fuch as are ufcd in
Stockholm on parties of pleafure, and made commonly in the
fliape of a cockle-ftiell, fcemed upon the whole mofl: eligible, on
account of their lightnefs, and their being fufficicntly narrow for
the ftraitefl paflages. But thefe fledges, though convenient enough
for a fmall excurfion, become very fatiguing on a long journey;
and in one of feven or eight hundred Englilh miles would have
been altogether infupportable. Without ibme particular precaution,
in adding a prop or fupport behind, it was impoflible to refift
the impulfe, or guide the movement and diredion of the fledge,
in uneven parts of the road. During the whole of ourjourney vve
were under the necelfity of being our own drivers. There were
at the time fomc Finland fledges to be had at Stockholm, which
might have ferved equally for Sweden and Finland ; but thefe
vehicles, uled only in travelling through that part of Sweden
which lies between Stockholm and Finland, were drawn by particular
fets of bories. The peaiants, unacettftomed to fuch
fledges, refiifcd to furnifli their horles, as their hamefs did not
fuit them. They complained that they were clumiy, awkward,
and heavy, becaufc they did not refl; on iron but large wooden
ikates. As there is but very little travelling in Finland, the regulations
for the roads are not fo fliri^ as in Sweden. The fnow
commonly lays deeper, and the inhabitants, accuflomed to the
form of their owm fledges, fee no rea&n ior'atiy road wider than
the only carriages they are acquainted with require.' -
The method of making rpa^ds, adopted in all the diftrids of the
North
*76 TR4V11-S
North in which I fell of feow, is to
pl9C6 d fort of triungle of which may he about
eight or ten feet* on rolle^JVidhfie is to be* and to have
this frame drawn ferwardildcHb^^ horib or oxen, the
acute angle or apexof b<^ In this
manne4he fnow lying caL' the middloofthe^^m is paflied to tlie
f}de>, aiad a4>airage is thus mndtirt^ ealierfw the fledgo that come
aftipr* Blit thu briangle feraovb .or :durHniihe3 only the quantity
of fnow in the middle fo that the traweferfe who afterwards
-may pafs thatwayonaJEO another rutt or furrow, proportionable
to the widthiof their^lMgbi'nnd as .theiecond .ollows always
the tmek of time, and
by new f^ls cffetttW aemoTolatsngon the fides, becomes j .deep,
that it forms A Juiad of^ etdh tsrhi^ admits tmly fledges of the feme
diamflon,: .^Hasringlwed^i^ and every obffecle;
md dif^VaA(sc^;#n>tk)idd*^^9l:d^ refblVed to content
might obtain
from <me in this manner as
fuch at it
wo^ijfe of fo frequently
imnvir Wc flattered ourfelves that
* i^ out perfectly fetisfied With
-.-fyi
m on the l 6th of March, 1709, at
;*. pa^g through the nOtth pte>
Enveloped
/rHROUGH SWEDEN. . rn
Enveloped in pcliees of Ruffian bears lkins, our beads clolcly
covered with fur caps, and our hands in gloves lined with Vfool or
fur, we found no rcafon to complain of cold the whole way to
Griflehamn, vvhere we arrived on the fame evening. The iky was
covered with clouds and dark, and confequently our journey was
difmal, or at leaft glqomy.,- The firft objeft that prefented itfelf
to opr view on leaving ^ockholm behind, usy was the gaidens of
Haga, already mentioned, with the lake which in the fummer feafon
forms fo great an embcliiihment to this delightful retreat. It
was no longer that delicious paradife, that pleafure ground tufted
with trees in leaf, and adorned with Ihrubberies and coppice wood,
through which the winding paths, under a pleafmg fhade, imper<
ccptibly conducted the vifitor to fome fountain, or to the vaulted
roof of fome little temple, or fome cabin, the afylum of dmplicity
and love v it was the fkeleton, or, more properly, the inanimated
carcafe of that garden. All the fine contrivances of art which
were roade jufe of to captivate the eye, and to fill the mind with
a,pleafing fixation o^ffirprize and fatisfa(^ion; thole means that
were.-called itv..aid.to, improve, the beauty of the place, and to
CQnceak.% faults f i 9jy|- thel0:;^lccrets 'by which you were kept in a
Ibte ofigndrknec of what could^ affiitd .nd;gratifiCation if known
.pr fium, were now,^ by the feVerity' of the -&a^,' ctuelly
revealed.. A fad 'and \mi^nful. iiakiBdi^a was^y^^
. .the: whole. .. Titore temi^ you were led
thtopgl^>m|ny nieai^eimi vvere fo
4|a^e^ir.9 to deceive the imagimition by the idea that they wete
. Voi. J, A a placedN
m TRAVELS
placed at great diliances from each other, were beheld heaped
together in one crowd. There appeared no marks of regular
combination and defign : all was a dead confufion.
Having traverfcd the lake of Haga, we pafled very near the
country houie of the queen dowager Ulrica, called Ulrickfdalc.
It had been before the feat of Count John de Gardie, but was
purchaled by the queen dowager Ulrica Eleanora in the reign of
Charles XI. In this retreat the queen enjoyed that peace and
tranquillity which ufiially fly from the palaces of the great. Beyond
'Ulrickfdale nothing occurred that was in the leaf!; interefting
the whole way to Griflehamn, a diftance from Stockholm of
not left than fixty-nine Englifh miles. The face of the country
cannot be faid to be either flat or hilly : it is unequal ground, but
rifing and falling by gentle fwells. The eye, fatigued by the
dazzling whitenefs of the fnow, repofes itfelf with plcafure on the
dark green of the pines, which are often met with throughout
the whole of the journey. What aroufed us moft was to fee foxes
here and there Handing or walking about on the highway without
any apparent folicitude for their fafety. We were aftonifhed
to And this quadruped fb incautious, and ib devoid of that fagacity
and prudence which is the charatfteriftic of the fpecies. The buflneH
for which thofe animals come to the highway we difeovered
to 1^ hb other than to eat the new-dropped dung of the horfes
that pafTed. If, while they were in ftarch or pofleffion of this, a
fledge happened to go by, they would only leap over to the other
^e of the ditch, and turn about and keep a conftant eye on the
equipage,
THROUGH SWEDEN. *79
equipage, or whatever or whomfoever they confidered as objcAs of
juft fufpicion and danger, without moving farther oiF, even though
a man fhould come within thirty or forty paces of them. If the
fledge flopped, then they would immediately betake themfclves
to flight ; but if any one whiflled, the fox would flop Ihort, turn
about, and for a few fleonds look the perlbn in the face. A fportfman,
having a fowling piece with him in his fledge, would have
an opportunity of taking a tolerably furc aim, and doing great
execution among them merely by means of whiflling. We were
not without fowling pieces ; but our pelices, a certaiii lazinefl
and heavinels with which we were overwhelmed (the eflefl, no
doubt, of the climate),' and the conflraint we were under from
the neceflity of accommodating our pofture to the movement of
the fledge, all conlpired to make fliooting at a mark no eafy mat>
ter. Befidcs the report of our. pieces might have frightened the
horles.
It is alleged by Ibme, that the foxes of the North arc of a different
fpecies from thofe of England, and that thofe of the latter
are larger, more cunning, and wilder than thofe of the former.
Without pretending to decide this queftion, I fhall <Mily oblerve,
that the prudence of northern animals is often overcome by extreme
hunger, and that the cold in Great Britain is never fo long
nor fl> intenfe as to reduce them to flich extremity. As to
their flopping fhort in flic midfl of their flight, on hearing a
whiflie, 1 could never learn or conjedure what fenfltion or idea
#
this could excite in them. Being to them an iinufual found, tbqr
Aa 2
180 TRAVELS
no doubt confidered it as a warning of danger. The country
people have a fuperftitious notion, that foxes and- wolves arc offended
at being called by their fpecihe names, and that they take
vengeance for this infult on their poultry, and other domefticated
animals; ibr this reafon they call the foxes hrown legs, and the
wolves grey legs, in the &me manner as the people of Sumatra
give good names to the tyger. , , i
During the whole of this routa from Stockholm to Grillehamn,
the traveller mud not think of Hopping either to eat or
fleep ; I mean to lay, that there are no inns to be met with as in
other parts of Europe. He mud cany bis provifions along with
him, for the poor peafants have feldom any thili!^ befides bread
and milk, or Ibmetimes ialted provliions, not always agreeable to
travellers. Their bread is flat round cakes, made for the mod
part of barley or rye, with holes in the middle, through which a
dring pafles for flinging a number of them on their backs when
they go abroad to the woods, or fields, or a-filhiiig. Potatoes are
by no means common among them, which is owing, I imagine,
to the difficulty they find to keep them from the frod in winter.
The philotbphical ceconomids, numerous as they are in Sweden,
have not yet, it would feem, difeovered themfclvcs, or at lead not
taught the country people, that this ufeful root may be lecured
from the keened frod, by lodging it in cavities dug to a fiifficient
depth in the. earth ; but the peafants, tho^h poor, feel no preffing
wants that arc not gratifled. Befides bread and milk, they
have in their dores ^ted or fmoked meat, as well as fiih, and oc-
; ; cafionally
THROUGH SWEDEN. i8i
cafionally even beer and brandy; but thefe laft are objeifls of
luxury, and neceflary only to faditious appetites : both they and
their children are well fed. Their houfes and manner of clothing
fufficiently proted them from the feverity of the cold ; their fire*
Tides arc always well provided with wood, and their apartments
warm and comfortable. The traits of innocence, fimplicity, and
contentment, which, on entering any one of their cabins, you
may perceive in their countenances, form a pidure that mud
greatly move the dnfibility of a ftranger, and intereft the feelings
of his heart. The little iports of the children, the (kipping and
frilking of dogs and cats, the crackling made by faggots and logs
of wood, the moded and trembling fong of the cricket, recalled
to my mind, w ith great pleafure, four charming lines of Gold*
fmith, which exhibit an exad likeneis of what laduallyfaw:
Around in fympathetic mirth,
Its tricks the kitten tries
;
The cricket chirrups in the hearth,
The crackling (aggot flies.
CHAPTER
i8a TRAVELS
CHAPTER XL
i,
Grijlehamn-^Tht Pajfage acroji the (Snif to Fmlattd dangerous in
Summer to navigate, and in Winterfrozen overfo as to hear Sledges
-r-Tke Author's Journey acro/s the Ice. D^culties attending it,
dnd Adventures that happenedSeals, or Sea-Cahes, living on and
under the Ice. Manner of hunting themThe I/les of Aland.
Some of them metitioned by Name : the Fortrefs of Ctflleholmen
Anecdotes from a Cowverfaiion with a Peafaut.
^^'RISLEHAMN is a fmall poft town, where all travellers ftop
in their way to or from Sweden or Finland, whether in
fommer or winter. The navigation of theftraits here is extremely
dangerous, as well as dilagreeable. There is only one pafTage for
large veflels, and the mariners are always in terror of ftriking on
the rocks which arc every where Icattercd in this formidable fea.
In winter a paffage is very rarely attempted, but when the whole
furface is frozen to fuch a degree of folidity as to bear a fledge.
When this is not the cafe, as fbmetimes happens during a mild
and open winter, thofe perfbns who have occafion to travel from
Sweden, either to Finland orRuifia, |re under the neceflity of
going by the way of Tornel all round the gulf of Bothnia. Griflehamn
is hot remi^able oh any account, except its being a place
' of

THROUGfl SWEDEN. 1S3

of rcndeii\95^ fbf travellers by lea or land. It has neither commerce,
m^ufafiurcs, nor houfes fit for the accommodation of
ftrangers. It coi^fiib of nothing more than the poft-mafters habitation,
which is built of brick ; and a number of wooden c.abins
around it, which are occupied by peafimts. The harbour of Grifleha
mn,. though not very capacious, is excellent, particularly for
fmall vcffelsv Two tongues of land jetting into the fea fecure it
from both the eaft and well winds, while a fmall illand, fituated
nearly in the middle between them, breaks the force of the waves
that are driven againft the coall by the winds which agitate the
whole mals of the Bothnian fea In its dirc<ftIon from the North.
On one of thefc tongues of land a telegraph is ercdled on a commanding
height, which is the only one that I faw in Sweden. It
w as conftruded by order of Guftavus III., during the war in Finland,
on a plan given by Mr. Edelkrantz, member of two Swediih
academics above noticed. This telegraph, by intermediate nations,
communicates with the capital as well as Finland, at times
when, from the wcaknefs of the ice, a paflage over the gulf is
impracticable.
When a traveller is going to croft over llie gulf on the ice to
Finland, the pcafants always oblige him. to engage double the
number of horfes to what he had upon his arriving at Griflehartin.
We were forced to take no left than eight fledges, being three in
4
company, and twofervants. This appears at firft fight to be an impofition
on the part of th9i|)eafants ; but w'c found, by experience,
that it was a ncceflary precaution. The diftance acroft is fortythree
184 TRAVKLS
three Englifti miles, thirty of which you travel on the ic^without
touching on land. This paflage over the frozen fca is, doubtlefs,
the moft Angular and ftriking fpe<ftacle that a traveller from the
South can behold. I laid my account with having a journey
more dull and unvaried than furpriAng or dangerous. I expeftcd
to travel forty-three miles without fight of land over a vaft and
uniform plain, and that every fucccffivc mile would be in exad
unifon and monotonous correfpondence with thofe 1 had already
travelled ; but my {loni(hment was greatly increaied in proportion
as we advanced from our ilarting-pofii. The fea, at firft
finooth and even, became more and more rugged and unequal.
It aiTumed, as we proceeded, an undulating appearance, refembling
the waves by which it had been agitated. At length we
met .with mafles of ice heaped one upon the other, and Ibme of
them Teeming as if they were fufpended in the air, while others
Were railed in the form of pyramids. On the whole they exhibited
a piAure of the wildefi; and moft favage confufion, that
furpriied the eye by the novelty of its appearance. It was an
immenle chaos of icy ruins, prefented to view under every poffible
form, and embelfifhed by fiiperb fialadites of a blue green
colour.
Amidft this chaos, it was not without difficulty and ^uble that
our horfes and Hedges -were able to find and purfue their way. It
wasnecefiary to make frequent windings, and-fbmetimes.to return
in a contrary dircdlion, following that of a froxen wave, in order to
avoid a collcdlion of icy mountains that lay before us. In Ipite
of
THROUGH SWEDEN. 185
of all our Expedients for difcovcring the eveneft paths, our fledges
were cilery moment overturned to the right or the left; and frequently
the legs of one or other of the company, raifed perpendicularly
in the air, terved as a flgnal for the whole caravan to halt.
The inconvenience and the danger of our journey were ftill farther
encreafed by the following circumftancc. Our horfes were
made wild and furious, both by the flght and the fmell of our
great pel ices, manufaElured of the tkins of Ruflian wolves or
bcafs. When any of the fledges was overturned, the horfes belonging
to it, or to that next to it, frighted at the fight of what
they fiippofed to be a wolf or bear rolling on the ice, would fet
off at full gallop, to the great terror of both paflenger and driver.
The peafant, apprehenfive of lofing his horfe in the midft of this
defert, kept firm hold ot the bridle, and fufi!ered the horfe to drag
his body through mafles of ice, of which fome lharp points threatened
to cut him in pieces. The animal, at laft wearied out by
the conftancy of the man, and difheartened by the obfeaclcs continually
oppofed to his flight, would flop ; then we were enabled
to get again into our fledges, but not till the driver had blindfolded
the animals eyes : but one time, one of the wildeft and
mofe ^irited of all the horfes in our train, having taken fright,
completely made his efeape. The peafant who conducted him,
unable ariy%hger to endure the fatigue and pain of being dragged
through the ice, let go his- hold of the bridle. The horfe relieved
from this weight, and feeling himfelf at perfed liberty, redoubled
his Ipecd, and furmounted every impediment. The fledge, which
VoL.I. Bb .he
i86 TRAVELS
he made to dance in the air, by alarming his fears, added new
wings to his flight. When he had fled to a confiderable Pittance
from us, he appeared from time to time as a dark ijrat which con"
tinued to diminifli in the air, and at lafl: totally vanilhed from
our tight. Then it was that we recognized the pmdcnce of having
in our patty fome fpare horfes, and we were fully icnflble of
the danger that muft attend a journey acrofs the gulf of Bothnia
without fuch a precaution. The peafant, who was the owner
of the fugitive, taking one of the fledges, went in fearch of
him, trying to And Rim again by following the traces of his flight.
As for ourfelves, we made the befl; of our way to the ifles of
Aland, keeping as nearly as we could iii the middle of the fame
plain, ftill being repeatedly overturned, and always in danger of
lofmg one or other of our horfes ; which would have occafioned
a veryferious embarraflment. During the whole of thisjourney
we did not meet with, on the ice, fo much as one man, beaft,
bird, or any living creature. Thole vaft Iblitudes prelent a delert
sabandoned as it were by nature. The .dead lilcnce that rei^s
is interrupted only by the whiftling of the winds .a^nft the prominent
points of ice, and fomef}mes by the loud crackings occafioncd
by their being iriefl^bly tom frprn this frozen expanle ;
pieces thus forcibly broken off are frequently blown .tp a roniiderable
diftance, . Through the rents produced by. the{(e ruptures,
, you may .fee below the watery abyia.i .wd[ it is fpmetimes neceffary
to lay planks aerpj^ them, by way Pf. bridges, for the fledges
topafsoyer.
.
The
THROUGH SWEDEN. 187
The only animals that inhabit thofe deferts, and'And them an
agreeable abode, are fea-calves or feals. In the cavities of the ice
they depolit the fruits of their love, and teach their young ones
betimes to brave all the rigours of the rudeft fealbn. Their mothers
lay them down, all naked as they are brought forth, on the
ice ; and their fathers take care to have an open hole in the ice
near them, for a fpcedy communication 'with the water. Into
thefc they plunge with their young, the moment they fee a hunter
approach ; or at other times they defeend into them fpontaneoufly

in fearch of fiflies, for fufienance to themfelvcs and their offipring.

The manner in which the male feals make thofe holes in the ice
is aftonifhing : neither their teeth nor their paws have any lharc
in this operation ; but it is performed folely by their breath. They
arc often hunted by the pcafents of the ifles. When the iflanders
difeover one of thofe animals, they take poft, with guns and ilaves.
at feme difeance from him, behind a mals of ice, and wait till
the feal comes up from the water for the purpofe of taking in
his quantum of air. It femetimes happens, when the frofe is extremely
keen; that the hole is frozen up almoU; immediately after
the feal makes his appearante in the atmolphere; in which cafe
the peafan'ts fall ort him with their feicks, before he has time
with hfsbrrath'to make a new aperture. In fuch extremities the
ahimar dirplays an incredible degree of courage. With his formidable
teeth he bites the'diib with'' which he is afTiulted, and
even attempts to qittack the perfens who iftrike him ; but the
Utmoft efforts and rcfifeance of thefe creatures are not much
Bb2 dreaded,
i88 TRAVELS
dreaded* on account of the flovlmeiii of their motions* and the inaptitude
of their members to a foUd clement.
^
After confiderable fatigue* and many , adventures, having refrelhed
our horfes about halfway on the high fca, we at length
touched at the fmall iiland of Signilfkar. This iiland prefents to
the view neither wood nor lawn, and is inhabited only by fome
peaiants, and the officer of the telegraph which is Rationed here
for keeping up a correfpondence with that of .Griflehamn. It
is one of thole little iilands fcattered in this part of the gulf,
which colledively bear the name of Aland. The diftance
from Grillehamn to Signillkar* in a firait hne* isr five Swedilh
miles, which are nearly equal to > thirty-five Englilh; Imt the
turnings we were obliged to make*, in order to find out the moll
practicable places, could not be lels than ten Englilh miles more.
All this while we were kept in anxious fufpence ocmceming the
^teof our fugitive borfe, and entertained the moA unealy apprehenfionstbat
he was either loA in the immenlity of the icy delert,
or buried jrerhaps in the watery ahyfi. . We were preparing to
continue our journey through the ifire on the ice and Imd ^ready
put new horles to our fledge, whenwo fpied; with it^preffible
pleafure* the two fledges returning wUh the fugitive. The animal
was in the moft deplorab^ condition imaginablernhis body
waacovered all over with fweat and foam* and was enrtloped in
acloud offmoke. Still we did not dare to Come near him; the
exceffive .i^igue of his violent ;courfe had niot abated hU lercdly i
hewasas much alarmed at the fi|^t of.our pdiceas aa before ; he
fnorted
THROUGH SWEDEN, 189
ftiort^, bounded, and beat the fnow and ice mth his feet ; nor
could the utmoft exertions of the peaiants to hold him fall have
prevented him from once more making his elcape, if we had not
retired to Ibme dillance, and removed the fight and the Icent of
our pelices. From Signillka we ptirfued our journey through the
whole of the illes of Aland. In different parts of Aland you meet
with poll'houfes, that is to fay with places where you may get
horfes. You travel partly by land and partly over the ice of the
fea. The dillance between fbme of thefe iflands amounts to no
lefs than eight or ten miles. On the fea, the natives have ufed
the precaution of fixing branches of trees, or putting fmall pines
along the whole route, for the guidance of travellers in the nighttime,
or direding them how to find out the right way after falls
of fhow.
Between the two Rations of Heraldfby and Skorpas is fituated
on a rock the famous fortrels of Gaflelholmcn, every where encompafled
by water, except on one fide, where it communicates
with an ifland by means of a narrow tongue of land. This caflle is
now in a Rate of ruin, and will perhaps never be reRored. It was
built by Binget Jarl, ^idminiRrator of Sweden, and father of king
Weldethan. It became afterwards the rtfidence of the governors of
Aland, nnd6ntuiued fb till the year 1634. During the reign of
Eric of Pomerania, this caflle was inhabited by a foreign lady of
the name of Yda. TJnder &ic Puke it was, in confequence of his
orders^ reduced by John Folkenlen.' ^ It was given in 1305 by the
regent Suante Sture to the Cheihdiee EnCifbn to John. Vafa, and
father
190 TRAVELS
father of Guftavus I. During the war between Suante Sture and
John II. king of Denmark, it was burned, but rebuilt, and lerved
asa prifonto the unfortunate Eric XIV. in the year 1571. In
the year 1550 it was granted, with all the iilcs of Aland in fief,
to duke John. After this, namely in 1 Go3, it devolved to Catherine,
widow of Guftavus I. In 1044 that part of the caftle,
which was conftruded of wood was deftroyed by fire. Then
it became the property Queen Ulrica Eleanora, the contort of
Charles XI. and fince that it has been burned and rebuilt feveral
times.
Between the ifles of Vergata and Krunlinge we had for our
guide a peitfant of about fifty-five years of age, who aftonifhed us
0.
with the great freedom of his converfation, as Well as the good
fcnle of his obfervations. Very different from other nifties, who
never open their lips, nor difeover any fparks of curiofity about
any thing, he made many enqmries, and with great politenefs,
concerning our native country, the nature of its government, its
fituation, climate, natural produce, and feveral other liitgeifts ; and
his queftions ftruck us as being greatly above the comihon underftanding
of perfbns in his condition of life. . Being informed that
we were from Italy, he exprefted much aftonifhment : he had
heard, he faid, that there was a war in Italy, arid that thtte^ Was
in that country a warrior who ftruck terror into all thfe world
;
alluding no doubt to Bonaparte. We a&ed him how tnahy ftiiles
he conceived Italy to be diftant from Aland ? He ftid' he could
not tell; . but that he imagined it to be a great 'ded hifftiCr off
than
THRQIJGH S\P:DEN. /
191
than Dentnuk. When we told turn that it was three hundred
Swcdki leagues beyond Denmark, he looked at us with amazement,
and, after a Ihort paufe, &id, that he could not imagine
from what motives ,we could have come to his country at an expence
of lb many rix dollars for polli-horfcs. His particular amulemcnt
in converfation feemed to be to Ipc&k ill of the clergy, whom
he turned into ridicule with a very happy vein of humour. He
was a great partizan of Gullavus the Third, with whom he faid
he had converfed, and who not unlikely may have diverted himfdf
with this peafant. He never quitted' his favourite topic of
abuHng the clergy, but conllantly returned to it from any digreflion
which we had indulged. Guftavus III. (faid he) was a
great man and a great king. Still, however, he did notsmakc
any pretenfions to half the refped and veneration that are ex-
** aded by our clergy, The clergy preach humility, but are them-
felves proud. Our parifli priefts enjoy good ftipends in the moll
" tranquil cafe : and that they may be dillurbed by nothing, they
hire a poor clergyman to preach a fermon for them on Sundays,
while they themfelves do nothing but fit Hill on a feat, and rc-
ceiye the homage of the peafants as they pals by them. This
idlenefs of theirs, I can aflure you, is not to be imputed to any
want capacity or knowledge : lor when any qucllion ariles
concerning the payment of tythes, or of a portion of our hard
^rpings, they immediately flicw themfelves to be the moll
 learned;,and .aqute men in the world.. They are not only ready
, reckpncrsj but have at their fingers en^ all the laws, ordinances
and
TRAVELS \
i9
*' and ftatutes of the kingdom. I repeat here what was laid by
the pcaiant almoll word for word, as it may give fome idea^'of the
way of thinking on this fubjed that prevails among that clafs of
people in this part of the country. What encreafed our furprife
at this mans intelligence was, that he had received no education,
nor ever read any books { what he faid was merely the refult of
his own obiervation. Our philofbpher intermixed in his converfation
fome meteorological obfervations. and predicted a very late
fummer from fome Ipots he had remarked in that great luminous
belt which goes acrof^ the heavens, and is called the Milky-way.
He related fome anecdotes of the laft war in Finland, and told us
that the battle of Hogland was not fb dccifive in favour of the
Swedbs as it might have been, had every thing been executed in
due manner : but Prince Frederic could not fend the flotilla to
fuccour the fleet, which was Ihort of ammunition. This is one
of the moft remarkable circumftances in the whole hiflory of the
war ; and of the truth of it I was well afTured afterwards by perfbns
who had the belt opportunities of knowing the fad, and
whole veracity was above all doubt. The following was the lituation
of affairs : The land army was polled at Lavifa, under the
joint command of Prince Frederic and General Toll. When the
battle began. Prince Frederic, knowing that the Swedifh fleet
was in want of ammunition, was defirous of fending it a fiipply
by the flotilja which lay at anchor in the road of Lavifa, and gave
orders to General Toll to that purpole : but the getieral tefufed to
execute the prmce s intentions ; and when the latter was proceeding
THROUGH S\TOEN. 193
ing enforce obedience, the general pulled out of his pocket a
paper in which he had been invcfted privately with the exclufive
command of the flotilla. By this paper the prince leamt how
little confidence was placed in him by the king. Had the Ruffians
held put but one hour longer, the whole Scwdifli fleet muft
have been taken. The two fleets were equally crippled, and it
was the retreat of the Ruffians alone that conflituted the Duke of
Sudermania the hero of that naval engagement.
VoL. L Cc tHAPTER
94 TRAVELS
CHAPTER XII.
An Account of the Ijlei ofAlandTheir Situation, Name, and Hif
toryTarifhes and Civil RegulationsSoil and ProduceThe
Inhabitants', their Manners and CuftomsNatural Hiflory r
Quadrupeds, Birds) amphibious Animals, Ffhes, InfeSls, Plants,
and Minerals.
^ 1 'HE illc of Aland, with its dependant iflands, to the number
of eighty, moft of them fmall, but inhabited, are lituated
between the gulfs of Bothnia and Finland, in latitude 59 degrees
47 minutes, to Oof degrees north, and longitude 36 degrees
57 minutes, to 39 degrees and 47 minutes.* In reljieA to its extent,
Aland conftitutes the fmalleft of the poSeflions belonging to
the crown of Sweden, containing only eleven fquare Swedilh
miles, or about feventy-feven Englilh, being in length about
twenty Englilh miles, and in breadth about lixteen.
The name of Aland feems to be derived from the ancient
Gothic A, which fignihcs water, and the word land ; Ib that
Aland together is the fame in meaning as illand. This appears
to be the moft natural etymology, though various writers have
^ From the meridian of Ferro. Reckoning from the meridian of London, the
longitude would be from 19 degrees il minutes, to 22 degrees 1 minutes eaft,
indulged
THROUGH SWEDEN. >95
indulged themfeivcs in conjeAurcs, for which there is always room
in enquiries concerning the origin of places, and the derivation of
their names.
Aland has been fuppoied anciently to have been governed by its
own monarchs ; but however that may be, it is certainly known
that fincc the fourteenth century it has made part of the biflioprick
and government of Abo, with the exception that in the year
1743 Aland and the other iflands fubmitted to Ruilia, and fworc
allegiance to the Czarina, but were foon after reftored to Sweden
by the treaty of Abo. Thcle illands in former times frequently
fufFcred from the invafions of the RuSians, and the inhabitants
had been forced to dy from their houles and fertile plains. But in
1718a congrefs was held here for the reftoration of peace, by
which the enjoyment of tranquillity was fecured to them.
Aland and the fevcral ifles contain eight parilhes, each of which
has a church. Befides thcle places of worlhip, there are levcn
chapels. The names of the parilhes arc Sund, Saltvick, Finftrom,
Hammarland, Jomala, Lemland, Foglo, and Kumblingc.
The Laplanders and Fins were undoubtedly the earlicft inhabitants
of thcle illands, and their relidence here is plainly to be
traced in the names of places which Rill remain, and were in all
likelihood given by them; fuch as Lappo, Lapbole, LapwaR,
Finby, FinRrom, Finno, Finko, .and Finfaolm. In the parilh of
Sund is a n^tur^ grotto formed in the lide of a mouiltain, about
lix yards in length ^d three in breadth, and from four to itre yards
in height. During the invalioh of ithe Bullians in 171-1 it ferved
C c 2 as
196 TRAVELS
place of concedmcnt ; and undoubtedly, In ancient times, this
wWell as many other caves were the habitations of the aborigines
of the illand.
Several lakes are met with in thefe^iilands, and but one rivulet,
which however is fufficient to work two mills, one of which is a
faw-mill. The mountains are numerous; the higheftofthcm is
called Ulfdubs Klint.
Kaga is a loyai farm ; Kermundo or Germundo, and Soneroda,
are %led faterier, or free towns, being exempted from all im*
pofts.
Aland has a judge who conilantly refides there, and likewifc
a phyiician, who besides as an apothecary when neceffity
requires. A public ichool was eftablilhed here fince 1639, but
it has been Ihut up fince 1701 The revenues i^ich the crown
of Sweden receives from Aland and the other iflands, amount annually
to nineteen thouiand nine hundred and eighty>lix rix dollars.
Two hundred and lunety-eigfat bailors are regiftered in thefe
iilands, which coil the king of Sweden about five thouiand rix
dollars yearly.
Aland conUuns about three thoafand ievca hundred and fifty
acres of land in cultivation, which produce rye, wheat, oats and
barley in the proportion of feven for one. The annual growth.of
wheat is about twenty-two thouiand five hundred barrels. There
iaone pariih which has no arable land, and in this refped refenables
fbapland. The inhabitants of this pariih'employ them-
&Ives in filhing, and purchafe all the com they have occaiion for
of
THROUGH SWEDEN. *97
of thdr neighbours. They catch vaft numbers of pilchards, of
which they make great profit, it being the chief traffic of theie
iflands.
' It has been long in agitation to build a city in the iile of Aland,
but the projed: has not hitherto been carried into execution, owing,
it is laid, to the difficulty of chufing a proper fpot for it.
The ufual route from Sweden to Finland is from the poll office
of GriOehamn in Upland, whidi is eleven and a half Swedifli
miles, to Eckero in Aland ; and from that place acrols the illand
to Abo, which is five miles more. A Swediffi mile makes between
fix and feven Engliih miles.
In the year 1792 the number of inhabitants upon the ifland
of Aland amounted to eleven thoufand two hundred and fixty,
which is upwar# of a thoufand to every fquve Swediih mile; a
very great number when it is confidered how mountainous the
ifland is. The inhabitants of theie iflands live to very great ages.
From the year 1692 to the prefent time, nine peribns are recorded
to have died at the great age of one hundred years; and perhaps
the number had been found greater, had it been thought worth
while to notice this particular. In 1703 there died a woman
named Anna Berg, who was one hundre'd and nine years old:
and at Kumblinge, in the year 1 766, another perfon of the fame fex
died at an age of upwards of one hundnd and twenty years. One
fixth part of the inhabitants are above fifty years old;' a circum*
ftance which ftffosdi avconvincing proof of the healthineft of the
place.
The
TRAVELS
The fea which furrounds the ifle of Aland is very feldom^^ frozen,
and was lefs fo formerly than at the prefent time. In 1540 it
was remarked as an extraordinary event, that in that year the lea
was fo frozen as to be crofTed on the ice. - It feems latterly that
thefe fevere frofts .happened once in ten years. The winter of
the year 1 702 was remarkably mild, fo that barley was Ibwn on
the twenty-fifth of March, at which time there was plenty of
pafture for cattle : confidcring its high latitude, Aland enjoys a
very favourable climate.
c
In their manners and cuRoms the inhabitants of Aland do not
differ greatly from the pcafauts of Upland. Their marriages and
funerals are celebrated much in the lame manner. In Aland they
ufually marry, about the middle of fummer, and appear thereby
to ihew that they have no need to wait for th(l|time of harvefi;
to enable them to fupport a family.
The Alanders commonly' ufe hburifliing food their bread is
generally made of rye, even when the crops of that kind of corn
have proved unfavourable. Frelh fifh, and fifh dried or falted,
together with milk, butter, cheefc, and flclh-mcat, are their ufual
fare. They make ufe of the flelh of feals,. and prepare a difh
calledJkalkroppe, compofed of collo{ of the fiefli mixed, up with
flour and lard, and this they reckon excellent In their voyages
by li^ they lay in a good flock of provifions, and ,at thofc times
are not fparing of meat and butter. ,
'J'he.drefs of the Alanders is .becoming. ^Thc mep weip, in
general, ihort jackets, which on holidaya ve commonly .of blb^
cloth.
THROlKitt SWEDEN. 199
cloth. The young pcafants commonly wear cotton ftockings, and
many of them have even watches. The women, when full
drelTed, wear a petticoat and apron of camlet, cotton, or printed
linen, and fometimes of (ilk. Their dreft in mourning is generally
of black filk? with a camlet petticoat. For the moft
part they wear caps, and fevcral filk handkerchiefs over their
necks. In their houfes they arc chiefly drefled in clothing of their
own manufacture, of which they have a variety. The married
women often appear with a number of gold rings upon their
fingers, and they feem particularly fond of wearing fuch ornaments
; yet lilver Ipoons and goblets are lefs often fecn in Aland
than amongft the fubftantial farmers in Sweden.
The dwellings of the pcafants are very neat and convenient,
kept in good rc|^r, and well lighted. They arc ufually built of
wood, fir, or deal, and covered with the bark of the birch tree,
or fhingles. Their out-houfes are moftly thatched. As they
have no running ftreams and water-mills, fcarcely any peafant is
without a windmill.
The Alanders' arc upon the whole an ingenious, lively, and
courteous people ; and on the fca difplay a great degree of fkill
and refolution. As a proof of the regularity of their lives, it is
only neceflary to obfcrve, that from the year 1 749 to 1 793, no
m'orc than levch criminals were capitally convided, and within
that fpace of time only fevea murders committed ; which is in
the proportion of one execution and one murder to one thoufand
eight hundred natural deaths : whereas in London, during the year
1 / 01 ,
too TRAVELS
1791, out of eighteen thoufand feven hundred and fixty who died,
thirty-feven fuffered under the hands of the executioner ; and at
Naples and in Sicily, fix hundred murders are fuppofed to be perpetrated
one year with another in a population of five millions.
From the year 1 749 to the year 1773, ther# were born in Aland
one hundred and nineteen illegitimate children; from 1774 to
1 790, the number of thefe was one hundred and twenty-fix
;
which is in the proportion, for the firft twenty-five years, of one
bafiiard child to eighty- three legitimate children ; and for the following
fixteen years, of one to fifty-three. The latter proportion,
however, is in fomc meafure a proof of an increalc of moral depravity
; though it be trifling when compared with other places,
fuch as Stockholm and Abo, where one-fixth part of the children
born are illegitimate ; and if we take the births through Sweden
we fliall find the proportion to be one to forty-five.
The people of Aland are far from being fuperllitious ; but, for
what reafon I know not, they are accufed of being of a litigious
difpofition.
No bears or Iquirrels arc to be found in thefe iflands ; and the
Elk, which formerly was uncommonly numerous, is now no
longer Icen in them. The animals chiefly found are wolves,,
(which arc faid to crofs the fea from Finland, when it has happened
to be frozen over) foxes, martens, hares, ertnincs, bats,,
moles, rats,* mice, &c. ; otters are but rarely met with : on the
coail arc found icals, &c. ,
Of birds there are above a hundred diflPerent fpecies found in >
theft
THROUGH SWEDEN. 201
thefc iflands. Amongft the fca fowl arc the colymbus, the pelican,
four dliferent forts of gulls, the dIdapper, the eider, and more
than a dozen other of the tribe of ducks.
Of amphibious aniitttlls are three fpecies of lizards, or newts,
frogs, &c. Amongllf'iRfilh arc found falmon, trout, cod, haddock,
ling, perch, tench, pilchards, fprats, together with a conliderable
number of other kinds.
The infedls found in Aland amount to the number of betwixt
leven and eight hundred different fpecies : among thefe we fliall
only make mention of one, and that on account of its very dcftrudlive
qualities. You often find trees in great number which
have been killed by this fpecies of infe<fl ; and, what is ftill more
diflrefiing and harraffing, houfes newly built have been known to
fall into decay and ruin in a Ihort time, entirely by the devaftation
of thefe pernicious animals.
The Alanders pay no great attention to the culture of bees.
Crawfilh are not very common in thefe iflands, and were firft
brought over by the queen dowager of GuRavus the firil;.
The Flora Suecica reckons about fix hundred and eighty plants
that are indigenous in Aland and the neighbouring ifles ; of which
number one hundred and fifty are cryptogamia. Moft of the
trees common to Sweden are alfb found in Aland. Few minerals
are to be met with here ; and the mountains are formed chiefly
of a red kind of granite.
Voi-. I. Dd TRAVELS
T RAVE L S
THROUC5H FINLAND

( 5 )
TRAVELS
THROUGH
FINLAND.
CHAPTER XIII.
Atrival in Finland at the Town ofAbo-Account of this City
The LibraryThe UniverfityAdmiral HedingFarther Par-
, ticttlars of the Town ofAbe ; its Situation, Streets, Buildings
The CathedralThe Building of the AcademyTlu Harbour
The Inhabitants of AboTheir Trade and CommerceThe Cqftle,
called Abohus.

TN our way to Abo we pafled near the caRle named Abo>hus.

iituated at the mouth of the river Aura, upon a cape or point
of land, bounded by the water on three fides.* The governor
and bifhop, who generally refide at Abo, happened to be abfent
when we arrived ; '-but we had the good fortune to beuntroduced
to Admiral Heding, who received us with great politenefs, and
* See a defcription of it, page 214.
engaged
so6 TRAVELS
engaged us to pafs the greateft part of the two days we rcmai^ied
at Abo in his houfe. The admiral lives clofe to the caftle. <
We lodged at Sciirels, the figh of the Victory, where our entertainment
was as bad as poffible ; but we were obliged to put
up with it, as there was no other houfe of the fame hind in
the plaee.
The library is the only thing in the town worthy the travellers
notice, though it is of no great confcquencc. Among other
curiofities they Ihewed me a prayer-book printed by a peafant
with wooden tablets, upon which he had cut the letters. In the
fame library there is a tolerably complete collei^ion of Swedilli
medals, ancient as well as modern. The number of Rudents at
the univerfity amounts to about three hundred. There is but one
printing prcls in the town, and only two bookfellers (hops.
Their fchool of anatomy is in conliderable repute : it is not ~
likely to want IlibjeAs for diiTedion, fmee, by a particular regulation,
all fuch perfbns as hold lands or penfions from the crown
are bound to leave their bodies to be dlirc<51ed at the anatomical
theatre. If the fame law had been extended to phyficians and
furgeons, it would not have appeared lefs rational. I made acquaintance
with profelTor Porthaan, who Ihewed us every thing
of any value in the library, and with great politenefs gave us all
the information in his power refpeAing our route through Finland.
He- allb made us a prefent of fome dilTertations he had
written on different fubjeRs concerning that country.
Mr. Franqcu gave me a precious fpccimcn of national poetry,
confifling
THROUGH FINLAND. ao7
cot^ding of a little long compoied by a peafant girl, the fervant
of a clergyman, who met with a difappointment in an ailignation
with her lover. I Ihall prefent the reader with this piece in
another place, when I come to fpeak of the genius of the Finlanders
for poetry.
Admiral Heding is one of the moft diftinguilhed men in Sweden
for talents, in the department of the marine. His prefent
majefty does not feem to make a proper eflimate of his merit,
perhaps on account of the attachment he>ihewed to the Duke of
Sudermania, during his late regency. The admirals converfation
is infinitely intcrefting, accompanied however with a dry franknefs
of manner, which on different occafions has been of prejudice
to him at court. He is known in Sweden for his perfonal
courage, for his talents, for his lively repartees and hon mots. He
has ferved in the French, nglifh> and Spaniih fleets, and Ipeaks
all thofe languages with equal fluency, befides the Swedifh and
German ; the laO; is his native tongue. Guflavus III. entertained
the higheft opinion of his chara^r, and in consideration of his
eminent accomplifhments could forgive the franknefs of his cohverfation,
and even his bon mots, though- fometimes they were a
little too highly feafbned for the palate of a king. In the affair
ofWiburg, when Guflavus Suffered himfelf to be blocked up>
Admiral Hedings frigate, called la Folk, not being there, he told
the king that he thought he fhould henceforth name her la Sage ;
and when his majefty demanded his reafbn bccaufe, faid he,
fhe was too wife to get info the fame ferape with the reft of
the fleet in the gulf of Wiburg.
2o8 TRAVELS
The city of Abo is a Stapelftad,* and belongs to the Lane ;f
that is to fay, the government and dioceie of Abo. It is lituated
in Oo degrees 10 minutes north latitude, upon a promontory
formed by the gulfs of Finland and Bothnia. It is forty-one
Swedilh miles from Stockholm, feventecn from Bjorneborg, fortyone
from Wafa, fixteen from Tavaftehus, and twenty-two from
Hellinfors. It fiands on the fide of the river Aurajocki, and is
enclofed on all fides by hills, being itfelf in rather a low fituation.
The river Ayrajocki, near the town, is from about fixty to a
hundred yards broad ; its waters are muddy and unfit for culinary
purpofes. The town, four thoufand nine hundred and forty yards
in length by two thoufand four hundred and fifty in breadth, is
divided into five quarters, three of which are fituated fouth call:
from the river, and two to the north weft, being joined by the
communication of a wooden bridge. There are three open places
or fquares in the town, namely, the great fquare, which is furrounded
by different public and private buildings all of ftone
;
the new fquare, enclofed by wooden houfes, among which is a
fort of magazine, containing ma&rials for town buildings ; the
other buildings are chiefly butchers fhops ; and lafily, churchplace
: contiguous to this is the academy. The fireets and lanes
in Abb together amount to one hundred and two : the number
*
In Sweden flie towns are divided into Stapelftaderi which have permiilion to
trade with foreigners ; UpHader, which have no fuch permiliion ; and Bergftader,
which ^re fituated on the mountains.
t The Swedilh provinces are divided into lanes or governments, which are
under their refpeftive governors.
of
THROUGH FINLAND. ao?
of houies including thole that were building, is upwards of one
thoufand one hundred ; which in 1 760 contained two thouiand
and forty-eight families. There are no fewer than five cuftomhouies
in this city.
The cathedral church of St. Henry is covered with wood in
thin plates, or fliingles, laid one over the other. In length it is
one hundred and fifty yards by fixty-threc and a-half in breadth,
and feventy-five in height. It is the only church in Abo, and is
equally appropriated for the purpofe of publjc worlhip according
to the Finlandilh and the Swedilh rituals. The Swediih congregation
begin their fervice at fix o'clock in the morning, that of
the Finlanders at nine. The tower is covered with a copper toofi
and furnifhed with a clock, which is expofed, like all objeds that
are raifed high in the air, to be ilruck with lightning : this accident
having befallen it on different occafions, it is nuvv proteded
by a condudor.
The academy, confiding of two floriesj is built of done, with
three auditories, and a chamber for the academical confidory.
Hard by is a faloon for gymnadicjCxercifes, and over it two apartments
for the library. The cathedral fchool i& not eflentially different
from other Ichopls, as thebufinefi of education there is the
fame with what you find in every town, namely, a little Latin
and Hebrew. The honourable appellation of cathedral is given
to it merely beciufe it happens' to be at a place which* is the rcfidence-
of a biflmp. , The chemical laboratory and the difiedingroom
are included in the fame building ; one in tbe fird, and the^
VoL. I. Ec other
210 TRAVELS
other in the fecond {lory. The cathedral occupies the cedtre of
thofe public buildings.
Tlie feat of the courts of juftice, the houfe of the prefident,
the cuftom>houfe, the excife>office> the town*haiU that of the
council, the rcpolitory of the water-engines, and the houib of
the governor, are built id* Hone : all the reft are conftrufted of
wood.
Near Bcckholmen, about three Englllh miles from Abo to the
fouth weft, is a fmajl but lafc harbour, by its depth of water
capable of receiving the largeft Ihipping of the town, with every
convenience for loading and unloading. The ftnaller vefTcls, which
draw only about eight or ten feet water, may proceed almoft to
the bridge.
The moft ancient privileges of the city are loft ; fiich as Hill
remain are dated from the time of John the third, 1569.
To the royal tribunal refident here belong the governments of
Abo, Tavaftehus, and Hcinola ; it coniifts of three juriididlions,
twelve territorial judges, and ten other magiftrates.
The governor of Abo, of Bijoinebo^, and of Aland, as -well as
the bilhop of Abo, generally live in this city.
Guftavus Adolphus, in the year 1626, eftablilhed a gymnalium
for the ufe of the town. It was afterwards, in the year l04O,
converted by Queen Chriftina into an academy or 'uhiverfity, and
Ihe appointediftic bilhop of the diocefe lub-chancellor. The academies
of Sweden, as has been mentioned before, have chancellors,
fub'Chancellors, and pretors. The prbfeftors in chemiftry,
^ anatomy.
THROUGH FINLAND. 3 >|
anat(My, natural hlftpryand ceconomics, have been more recently
appoitfted, for they did not belong to the original infiitutiou. The
one laft mentioned ,was fubftituted in the room of a profelTor in
poetry, which it was thought proper to unite with the profellion
of eloquence. This exchange of poetry, or poetical criticifm, for
ceconomics, is no unpleafing chara(51eriftic of the prelent age, and
a proof of the good Icnle of the Swedes, and progrels of real knowledge
in that country. The number of fludents, upon an average,
amounts to about five hundred and fify, abfentecs Included.
The library owed its firft exigence to the liberality of Queen
Chriilina : it was afterwards greatly augmented by a donation
from the late General Stalhoudlke, and alfo by that of Ibmc individuals,
among whom are particularly diftinguilhed Aichenholk,
counfellor of ftatc, who bellowed upon it a very confidcrttblc
collection of books, manuferipts, ancient coins, &c. The
fame kind of liberality was Ihown By bilhop (afterwards archbilhop)
Menander, who prefented the univerfity with a large
quantity of rare books, manuferipts, and Ibme relics of antiquity.
The number of books in the library at prelent exceeds ten thoufand
volumes, and its annual fund for new purchafes is about one
hundred arid fifty rix dollars or crowns.
The government of the town is placed in the hands oftwo burgomallers.(
or mayors), the one of jullice, the other of police, and
fix fenators (or aldermen). Befides the court of the palace, and
the mferior municipal jurifd^ons, t^ere ^rc; a fiamp-office, an.
eimile-office, a pofi;*office, j&c. ,, .
;,.*
'
e 2 The
SIS TRAVELS
The citizens are divided into three clafles or ibdeties^ <tiz. of
merchants, common tradefmen, and Finland burgefles. * They
are formed into train-bands, or a kind of militia, confifting of
three companies of foot, each of about hxty orfcventy men, which
arc placed under the command of an officer called the townmajor.
The city-guard is a fmall body of men (about thirty-five),
who perform the common duties of watchmen, for the fecurity
and quiet of the inhabitants. The town has three water-engines,
and, in addition to the/e, the cathedral and academy have fix.
Here allb is an hofpital, where upwards of forty petfbns can be
accommodated. The lazaretto is intended for the fick that belong
to the government of Abo cxclufively. The Magdalen hofpital
is a charitable inftitution upon a final! fcale ; it has only an annual
fund of three hundred rix dollars.
This city carries on a confiderablc trader both foreign and d6-
meltic. In the year 1761, its export trade employed nineteen
fhips,* of which fourteen belonged wholly to the inhabitants of
Abo. Their deftination was to Peterfburg, Fredericklhatnn,
Wibutg, Reval, Riga, and Pernau ; and their cargoes confifted of
ialt, tiles, iron and nails, copper, pitch, tar, pots, and deals, to the
amount of three thoufand one hundred and twenty-two rix dollars
thirty-two ikillings. They likewife exported to Cadiz,
Genoa, Lifbon, St. Ubes, Bourdcaux, and Amilerdam, iron, tar,
* Peuchet, in his Ditionary of Commerce uiicier the word Aboj
that the (hips with which this town carries on its trade are witliout decks a
very unnacountabie miftake.
THROUGH FINLAND, 213
pitch* deals, joith, &c. to the annual amount of (even thouland
one hundred and cighty-feven rix dollars feven ikillings. The
fame year there arrived at Abo fixtecn Ihips, nine of which belonged
to the citizens of the fame place, and the whole value of
imports from abroad amounted to one hundred and four thouland
nine hundred fixty-fcven rix dollars and fixteen Ikillings. The
articles Imported were, two hundred and three thoufand one hundred
and forty-three pounds of tobacco, twenty-one thoufand five
hundred and twenty-three pounds of coffee, ninety-feven calks
of wine, one hundred and feventy-nine thoufand and forty-fix
J
pounds of raw fugar, eighteen thoufand three hundred and fix
and a half barrels of fait, fix thoufand four hundred fifty-feven
barrels of rye and wheat, four thoufand eight hundred and twenty
hundred weight of hemp, a quantity of fpiccrics, drugs, &c.
.amounting in all to eighteen thoufand one hundred and twenty*
two rix dollars.
Abo has various manufadorics : two of tobacco, one of fugar,
three of filk-ribbands, two of cloth and fuflian, one of fail-cloth,
fix hm-works, fix of tile-kilns, two watch and clock manufactories,
one paper-mill. The plantations of tobacco are an objed
of very great confequence ; they produce not Icfs than one hundred
and fifty-two thoufand hundred weight annually.
In the year 1761, the revenue arifing to the crowm from this I
city amounted to four thoufand fix hundred and feventy-five rix
dollars. The number of its inhabitants in the year 1751 was
eight thoufand fiveliundred and iour.
The
ai4 TRAVELS .
The town bad been anciently built on a fpot lituatcd quarter
of a mile diftant from where it now ftands: it dates il^ origin
from the iutroduftion of chriftianity into this country. After being
nearly confumed by fire, it vyas rebuilt, and put tinder better
regulations, by the care and attention of Peter Brake, Rikfdrots and
governor-general of Finland, about the middle of the feventeenth
century. There was formerly a mint at Abo. In the time of
popery this town had two monafteries within its precinds. From
the year 1714 until 1721, Abo remained under the dominion of
the Ruffians, from whom it experienced the moft cruel treatment.
In the year 1 743, at the conclufion of peace betw'cen Ruffia and
Sweden, this city was finally delivered from the fevcritics and
dangers to which it had been expofed.
The cafUe, in the language of the country called Abo-hus or
Abo-flot, is fituated at the mouth of the river Aura, upon a capA
bounded on three fides by the water : this is one of the moft ancient
fortreftes of the country. It was well fortified under the
kings, Albrecht, Charles VIII., Knutfon, and Guftavus Vafa. Befidcs
four towers, which were deftined to oppole the approach of
an enemy to the harbour, it had on the fouth fide a high wall
with a triple rampart of earth, and a double ditch. A new building
has been added to the old ftrudure, but in a different ftylp of
mafbnry. Abo-hus was the refidence of Duke John, and the
prifbn of King Eric XIV, in the fixteenth century. The old
caftle, which contains a church and a confiderable arfenal, is conftruded
of brick walls extremely folid, and furronnded by fmall
earthen
THROUGH FINLAND. 315
eaitheil ramparts, ereded in the year 1730. It has been ieveral
times ddlroyed in time of war by the enemy, and at other times
it has fufFered from fire. Two companies of marines are at prefent
quartered in the caftle. The other apartments are par^ em- ,
ployed as magazines for com and gunpowder, and partly ferve
as a prifon for Rate offenders.
CHAPTER
ti6 TRAVELS
CHAPTER XIV.
Departure from AboDifficulty of Travelling without a fuffictent
Quantity of SnowTral of Country between Abo and Yervenkyle
Condition of the Feafantry : their Mode of Life, Drefs, and
domeflic ComfortsMeet with an old MinjirelContrivance of
putting a Sledge on WheelsDefcription of an Aurora Borealis
Reach YervenkyleAccount of this HamletCataraSl near Ycrvenlyk
: Appearance of it in WmterLittle Birds (Turdusfflne^
tus, Linn.J near the Catarails in WinterDexterity .of the Peafants
in ShootingThe Dwelling of a Peafant dcfcribed, and reprefented
by a Drawing.
TT7E quitted Abo the 20th of March to continue our travels
^ towards the North. In order to be free for the future
from the trouble of changing oxir baggage at every Rage, we had
provided ourfelves with fledges of our Own. We purchafed them
at Abo, and they were of the fame defcription as thofe which th?
pcafantry made ufe of. The winter had been extremely fevere
;
but there had not fallen a great quantity of fnow in comparifon
of former years. A March fun, and fbmc days of thaw, had
made it difappear entirely in many places, ^he fied|e was often
fuddenly Ropt, and the poor horfe made repeated eRbrts, without
cfFcR,
THROUGH FINLAND. 217
cfFcd, to drag it over the naked and fandy foil, which funk under
his feet with a fort of difagrccable crackling noife. We- were
every moment obliged to leave the fledge, and walk on foot till
W'C came to ground covered with fnow, or to a frozen lake or
river. This mode of travelling at laft became extremely tirefome,
but having no alternative, we endeavoured to fubmit to it cheerfully.'
In many places the fnow had been melted on the middle
of the road, but ftill remained on thefidcs and at the edge of the
ditches. In thofe fituations not infrequently the love of cafe induced
us to try the expedient of rifking the fledge on the edge of
the ditch, which conftantly gave way, and our indolence availed
nothing. Tlic horfc was unable to keep in the precife line,
and conftantly drawing to one fide or to the other, we were every
now" and then overturned in the ditch, and plunged over the cars
in the fnow.
Thi-* fpccies of fledge, being extremely narrow, is very eafily
overturned ; but as it is at the fame time very low, the fall is accompanied
with no manner of danger, and when the road is in
a proper ftate it goes very ftcadily^and fafely ; but when the fun
has begun to melt the fnow, and this partial thaw, as often happens,
is fucceeded by a frefli attack of the froft, then there is
formed on the declivities of the road a poliflied mirror of ice,
which occafions much trouble and difficulty to the traveller. The
fledge* in defeending never keeps in a dired line, but is hitched
out of its proper diredfion by the fmallcft accident : when turned
fideways, it flips all at once out of the road, and is overturned
VoL. I. F f either
si8 TRAVELS
cither into the ditch or againft a tree, and fometimes twifts the
horfe, and throws him down' along with it. We were often
obliged to get out of the fledge;' but our boots being too flippery
to fupport us on an inclined plane of fmooth ice, we were reduced
to the neceiTity of fitting down, and of Aiding gently to the hot*
tom of the defcent.
In the whole way from Abo to Yervenkylc the traveller finds
nothing fiiflicicntly interefting to merit a place in his journal.
The country is in a great mcafuie fiat, and it is not till he is about
a mile from Yervenkyle that it begins to becomeibmewhat mountainous,
without however preienting him with any remarkable
profpeft.
The houfes of the pealants are well built, and the ftranger finds
every where lodging arid beds; and he may be tolerably accommodated,
if he have the precaution to carry ibme conveniences
along with him. You are received with great hofpitalitj'; the
peafant furniftics you with whatever he has got to cat, though,
in general, he can only offer you freflt and curdled milk, felt
herrings, and perhaps, as bdft^-ihentioned, a litfle felt meat.
In cOmparifon with thofe who travel among them they arc poor,
but in relation to themfelvcs they arc rich, fince they are fupplied
with evfcry thing that conftitutCs, in iheir opinion, good
living. If they have more money' than theyiniYe immediate ufe
for, ihey lay it up for fome unforefoeii ^nogoo^, or convert it
mtoavafe, or fome other domeftic utenfil. 'Yon mnil nbt be
forprifed in Finland, if in a fmall wooden houfe, where you can
get
THROUGH FINLAND. ai9
get nothing but herrings and milk, they fliould bring you water
in a filvcr vcflel of the value of fifty or fixty rix dollars. The
women are warmly clad ; above their clothes they wear a linen
fliift, which gives them the ai^of being in a fort of undrefs, and
produces an odd though not difiigrecablc fancy. The infidc of the
houfe is alw'ays warm,, and indeed too much lb for one who
comes out of the external air, and is not accuftomed to that temperature.
The peafants remain in the houfe confiantly in their
lliirt fleeves, without a coat, and with but a Angle waiftcoat ; they
frequently go abroad in the fame drefs, without dread either of
rheumatifm or fever. We fliall fee the rcafon of this when we
come to fpcak of their baths. The Finlanders, who accompany
travellers behind tlitir Hedges, are generally drefied in a kind of
Hiort coat made of a calfs-fkin, or in a woollen Hiirt, fafiened
round the middle with a girdle. They pull over their boots
coarfc woollen (lockings, which have the double advantage of
keeping them warm, and preventing them from flipping on the
ice.
The interior of the pcalants houfe prelents a pidure of confidcrable
intereft. The women are occupied in tcafing or fpinning
wool for their clothing, the men in cutting faggots, making nets,
and mending or conllrudling their fledges..
We met at Mamola with a blind old man, having his fiddle
under his ann, fitnounddi by a crowd of boys and girls. There
was fbmething re(pedlable in bis appearance; his forehead was
bald, adong ..beard defeended from bis chin, white as fiiow, and
F f 2 coverpd
220 TRAVELS
covered his breaft. He had the look of thole bards who ^rc deferibed
with lb much enthufiafm in the hiftory of the North, not
one of whom probably was equal to this poor man in fcience or
intelligence. His audience wer^ not gathered round him for
nothing : he fang verfes, and related to them tales and anecdotes
;
but our prcfencc broke in upon the filence and tranquillity of the
alTembly ; every body withdrew ; children arc children in all
countries. The fight of ftrangers was fuch a novelty, that, forgetting
the bard, they began to mock at our figure, and to laugh
in our faces, while tlie poor mendicant finilhed by alking us, in
bad Swedilh, fome halfpence or Ikillings in charity.
Night was approaching, and we were extremely fatigued with
our amphibious mode of travelling, half on foot and half in the
fledge. In this emergency I had a ftrong proof of the utility of
an invention which I was Ihewn in the model repofitory at Stockholm
: it was a fledge, with four wheels fufpended from its fides,
which by means of a Ipring could he placed under the fledge, and
raife it from the ground ; and thus in a moment convert the
fledge into a fpeeies of wheel carriage.
On the 30th of March towards midnight, we were ftill upon
the road, fufFering from a cold of 13 degrees of Celfius, when an
aurora borealis prelented us with a magnificent fpet^acle, which
ferved to relieve the irkfome monotony of our journey. The
heavens began to appear illuminated in the. quarter of the north
;
prefently it aii'umcd a bright ruby colour, fuch as we have on a
fine evening in Italy with the letting liin, ^hen, as Viigil %s,
and
THROUGH FINLAND. 221
and^as experience has often proved, a lively red as the fun goes
down prognofticates fine weather for to-morrow. This phenomenon
had juft fixed our attention, when behold a luminous arch
rofc over the pole. This was accompanied by various other light
and fleeting arches, which fliifted from place to place every inftant
: they were bounded here and there by vivid flames and
torches, which ifTued in rapid fucceffion from the fkies, communicating
fire to the clouds in their vicinity, tinging their gilded
edges, and exhibiting a pldure highly intcrefting to us, unaccuftomed
as we were to fuch appearances.
At length we had the good fortune to reach Ycrvcnkylc, a fmall
diftrid: which belongs to the univerfity of Abo, and whieh is let
to a very obliging peafant. This man gave us a bcd-chambcr,
accommodated us as well as he could, and contrived, by his great
hofpitallty, to render three days ncccflary repofe very agreeable.
Some detail on this Ample and retired manfion, ftanding at a
fmall diftance from a beautiful cafeade (a fituation which afforded
us much intcrefting amufement, both as painters and fportfmen),
will not be difagrceable to my curious readers, who may be dcfirous
to know rather minutely the particulars of this part of
Finland.
Yervenkylc is a fmall village confifting of three or four families,
and fituated upon a lake. During the winter fcafon people do
not pafs through this place on their way to Wafa. Our motive
in coming here was to enjoy a little reft, as well as to have a view
of a fine cafeade of very confiderable magnitude, which is at the
diftance
222 . TRAVELS
diftance of a qiiarter of a league from the village. We had been
extremely anxious to fee a catarad in winter, and that of Yervenhyle
did not difappoint our expedations.
It is formed by the river Kyro, which, iffuing from a lake of
the fame name, precipitates itfelf through fome deep and rugged
rocks, and falls, fo far as I could guefs, from a height of about
feventy yards. The water dafliing from rock to rock, boils and
foams till it reaches the bottom, M'here it purfues a more tranquil
courfe, and after making a large circuit lofes itfelf again between
mountainous banks, v^hich arc covered with fir trees. That we
might have a more commanding view of the pidure, wc took our
dation on a high ground, from which we had a didant prbfpcd
of a large trad of country of a varied furfacc, and almoft wholly
covered with woods of ^rs, the plcafing verdure of which acquiring
additional luftre from the fblar rays, formed an agreeable contraft
with the fnow and malTcs of ice hanging from the margin
OA'cr the cafeade.
The fall prefented us with otic of thofe appearances which w'c
r
defired much to fee, as being peculiar to the regions of the North,
and which are never to be met with in Italy. The water, throwing
itfelf amidd enormous malTcs of ice which here and there have
the afped of gloomy vaults, fringed with curious crydalUzations,
and the cold being of fuch rigour as almod to freeze tiie agitated
wav^ and vapours in the air, had formed gradually two bridges of
ice acroft the cafeade of fuch IbUdity and ft^ngm, that men
pafifed over them in perfed fccurity. The waves ta^hg and
foaming
THROUGH FINLAND. 223
foaming below with a vaft noife, were in a ftate of fuch violent
motion as to fpout water now and then on the top of the bridge
;
a circumftancc which rendered its furface fo exceedingly flippery,
that the peafants were obliged to pafs it creeping on their hands
and knees.
Wc repeatedly vifited this pifturcfquc cafeade, and took fcvcral
drawings of it in different points of view. We always performed
this walk with guns in our hands, in cafe wc fliould fall in with
a hare, a fox, or a wolf, whofe numerous ^tracks wc met with in
the woods. Wc fought them a whole day in the heart of the
foreft with a hope, and not without fomc little fear, of finding
thefc ferocious animals ; but were continually and perhaps happily
difappointed. We difeovered every where marks of their ravages,
fuch as the remains of animal carcafes, but never got fight of
either. The probable caufe of our being difappointed in not find*
ing game arofc from the neceflity we were under to fearch without
a dog. Not one was to be found in the village nor in the whole
neighbourhood of Yervenkyle, which, according to the report of
pur landlord, w^as owing to the wolves fetting upon them at the
very doors, and even in the houfes themfclves of the inhabitants.
Being unable therefore to find cither hare, fox, or wolf, wc were
forced to take up with fmallcr game, and divert ourfclvcs by kill*
ing thoie little birds which in the North always fly during winter
near the cataraft, and which I never faw in Italy. This fpccics
is named by Linnasus Uirdus cinSlus^
Some peafants who dwelt at a mill on the contrary fide of the
bridge.
224 TRAVELS
V
bri4gc, made theral'clves in Ipending
powder and lead on birds
j
yaluc. : But .as they ,rcinatl^4 'jferkoS air artd feeihing difappwpiitm^
t at miHShg themijih*^
might by killing feme bftijittelr |[de
to us. favir one of Hl^tch but W
after ^hg his fhbt^crc^>bvcr The^h^ with
pne of t]^^jhird$i I th^nkbb hjih, bht bbrcrviijg that the bird
wante^;|hi|hb#,- ][> S^ina ihul^ii^nd that this drcumftance
rendere4;||:;h^ 'defiml^^lb^b/attd that I wHfied to hay? it cn-
*ire. had. an, old' "rifle*barrel.
it ypas with a ball he had killed
^fl^bt, varid:; made iigns to
iaii!^i^i^alittle||^i|^cd at thb fluall lead, which
probatepi^had,.p?ypr befbm.^ my ofifer, and
loadcd^aiii|liialf^i^hf^^,r';;:but vjij^biatefl^ he would
bjring::irib .frieiid -flbparted, fired
his,f^^j,>nd that
bb^igl^jt'hiaye it as\^^^ pblSble, lie had bbt flightly glgabd
'il^i^l^jthroatJ i ^W& much furprized at the preciflott.^^,hiSr
bt|bl^il^'bl'^T^ards allured .that wll,'-,th?-.peii4n<^^l^^^^^
\ /.: .- '-S'"
M|i^i^^hs,' 'hfld':'that-^Ny
' - . . .. r

V .y
fti^!they-fend:'4banriti?abf'w^y#a4%-ipi||B^W^|Pw!^tthis
manner to Stockholm; arid that they ptefeir- th'fe kind of
fowling-picce to any other on account of its narrow bore, which
IS

THROUGH FINLAND. 227

CHAPTER XV.
Departurefrom YervenlyleFrogrefs through a large ForefiDanger
to he apprehended from WohesVefitgei of a Conflagration
in the WoodFrequency of thefe Conflagrations, and the Caufes
thereofDevqftation occcfloned among the Trees of the Forefi by
StormsRoad through the Forfl; its InconvenienciesPajfage
mer the Ice ; the Fears and Alarms with which it is attended
The generous Simplicity offome Feafants whoferved as Guides.
/^N leaving the village of Yervenkyle, we came upon a wood
or foreft, famous in Finland for its fize, and particularly its
vaft length, which is about eighty Englilh miles. We had to
traverle it in its full extent, and I was inclined to compofe myfelf
to ileep the whole way, in order to elude the irkfbmenels of
a road that promifed fo little variety, and that I might make
a proper u/e of the fiillen gloom caufed by the thicknels of
the trees. Betides, I was confident that neither robbers nor
beafts of prey would interrupt my repofe ; the firft being unknown
in the co^tiy, and the fecond rarely fo prefTed with
hunger as to become hold enough to fet upon travellers. The only
wild beaib to be dreaded in this wood are the wolves* which
V
e%cn when ftarving will not venture to attack a man, though they
G g 2 may
338 TRAVELS
may not (pare his hor(e. But it fometlmes happens that the
wolves, in the anguilh of famine flock together, lofe their ufual
timidity, and from the confidence of aflbeiation become lb intrepid
as to let upon the hotfes yoked to fledges. In fuch an attack
it is extremely dangerous to be overturned and left upon the road
by the horfe : he naturally takes fright, and fometlmes makes bis
efcape ; then the wolves perceiving the traveller defencelefs upon
the ground, fall upon and devour him. Thefe accidents, however,
are not at all to be apprehended by a numerous party like
ours, as the wolves keep at a diftance, and fly at the noife of
(ledges and the voices of feveral people. We faw abundance of
their tracks every where on our route, but we did not perceive a
Angle wolf, nor any ravenous animal except foxes, which ufed to
look us fleadily in the face for a moment, while we amufed ourfelves
by whifliing after them.
The dreary fllence and obfeuri^ of a thick wood, whofe
branches forming a vaulted roof, cut o(F the traveller from a view
of the (kies, and admit only ^nt and dubious rays of light, is
always an impoling obje^ to the imagination ; the awiul impreffion
the mind experiences under this majeltic ^oom, this difmal
iblitude, this defertion of nature, is not be deferibed. The temperature
of the air is much mUder in the interior of. this wood
than the external atmofphere; a diflerence which is extremely
perceptible to one who like us enters the wood af^ traverflng &
lake or open plain. The only noife the traveller bears in this
foreft is the burfling of the bark of the trees, from the efied of
tlie (rod, which produces a loud but dull found.
THROUGH FINLAND. 229
This journey was by no means {o unintcrefting as I had ex*
pededat would be. Partial fires, conflagrations and tempefts had
committed frightful ravages in the bofom of this foreft, which
prelented us here and th.ere with exhibitions highly furprifing and
imprefllve. Every body has heard of the conflagrations fo frequent
in Sweden, and in the countries of the North in general.
Entire mountains and trads of fcveral miles covered with woods,
are liable to be devoured by flames. Much has been faid and
written in order to explain the origin of thofc fires. Some have
attributed them to the rays of the fun, which continue fo long
above the horizon : but this is fabulous and unworthy of ferious
attention. The prefence of the fun never produced fiich an cfFcft,
and the lefs fb in Sweden and Finland, where the heat of the fblar
rays never rifes above fifty or fixty degrees of Celfius, which is far
below the power necefTary to produce a conflagration. It has been
inconteftibly proved by a feries of obfervations, that between the
greatefl; fumtners heat and the feverefl winters cold known, there
is only onO thirty-fecond of diflfcrcnce.*
There are two fpecial caufes of thofe conflagrations. The firfl:
is fimple and accidental, and arifea from the careleflhefs of the
peafants, who travel Imoaking their pipes through this wood,
wherea fpark falling upon withered leaves or plants, with the
afliftance of a little wind, caiinot fl to excite fire and even flame.
This is not aH | the pea&nts frequently make a fire in the wood,
either to 4nxta themfelves or to cook their viftuals, and are often
* Lettres fur TOrigine des Sciences, &c. par M. Baillic, p. 292.
too
*3 TRAVELS
too negligent to cxtinguilh it entirely. The fecondxaulc ive may
trace to the political conftitution and laws of the country generally
fpeaking, it is in the crown forefts that thofe conflagrations
take place. In many diftridb the peafants obtain their wood
from the kings forefts, and pay for it a certain tax. There are
prccife limits within which they a.rc permitted to cut, and they
are liable to be puniftied with a fine, if they are found to proceed
in their operations beyond the fixed boundaries: but if a fire
happens to break out in any part of a foreft belonging to the
crown, the pcaiantry of that diftrid have a right to cut down
and carry home fuch trees as have been injured by the burning.
Thus the peafants who are in want of wood, and have too fmall
a fliare in the foreft for the fupply of their demands, are prompted
from an interefted motive to fet fire to it in their own neighbourhood,
being entitled to appropriate whatever trees have been
touched by the flames, which are generally in fuch abundance as
to ftock a houfekeeper with wood for four, or perhaps fix years,
according to the magnitude of the ravages which the foreft has
fuffered. It would appear that the government, if it were aware
of the circumftance, might efledually check thefe unlawful als
;
not fo efleiflually by infilling heavy puniihments, as by ordering
that the peafants fliould pay the fame fum for the ufe >of the
w:ood that might be gathered, injured by conflagration, as for
that in a found ftate; and that till the former was uftd they
fliuuld not be allowed to cut any wood in the foreft. There may,
t
however, be difficulties in executing fuch mcaiures, which a
ftranger
THROUGH FINLAND. 231
{banger is not acquainted with ; and hence we will not blame
the government for what may not perhaps be in its power to
remedy.
I faw in this foreft the difklbous wreck of one of thole conflagrations,
which had devoured the wood through an extent of
fix or feven miles, and which exhibited a moft difmal fpedacle.
You not only faw trunks and large remains of trees lying in confufion
on the ground, and reduced to the ftate of charcoal, but
allb trees Handing upright, which, though they had cfcaped de-
HruAion, had yet been milcrably Icorched : others, black and
bending down to one fide, whilH in the midft of the ruins of
trunk and branches appeared a group of young trees, rifing to
replace the former generation ; and, full of vigour and vegetable
life, leemed to be deriving their nourilhment from the allies of
their parents.
The devafrations occafioned by Horms in^ the midH of thole
fbrelb is Hill more imprellivc, and prelents a picture Hill more
diverfified and raajcHic. It leems wholly inconceivable in what
manner the wind pierces through the thick alTemblage of thole
woods, carrying ruin and delblation into- particular diHrids, where
there is neither opening nor fcope for its-ravages. -PoHibly it defends
perpen^cularly from heaven in the nature of a tornado,
or whirlwind, whofe violence nothing can oppofe, and which
triumphs over all refiHance. Trees of enormous fize are torn from
their roots,, magnificent pines, which would have braved on the
ocean tempcHs more furious, are bent like a bow, and touch the
earth
232 TRAVELS
earth with their humbled tops. Such as might be thought capable
of making the ftouteft rcfiftancc arc the moft roughly treated ; and
thofe hurricanes, like the thunder of heaven, which ftrikes only
the loftieft objefls, paffing over the young, and fparing them, becaufe
they arc more pliant and flexible, feem to mark the ftrongeft
and moft robuft trees of the foreft, which arc in condition to meet
them with a proud oppofition, as alone worthy of their rage. Let
the reader fancy to himfelf three or four miles of foreft, where he
is continually in the prcfcncc of this difaftrous Ipedacle ; let him
reprefent to his imagination the view of a thick wood, where he
can fcarcely fee one upright tree ; where all of them being thus
forcibly inclined, are either propped by one another, or broken in
the middle of the trunk, or tom from their roots and proftrated
on the ground : every where trunks, branches, and the ruins of
the foreft, interrupting his view of the road, and exhibiting a
Angular pifturc of confufion and ruin.
There is a great road through the inidft of this foreft which
may be tolerably fuited for travelling In fummer ; but the pcafants
do not always continue upon it during the winter feafon ; for
then they find no difficulty in traverfing a lake or a river, and arc
not obliged to follow the windings which the great line of road
naturally makes, in order to avoid accidental interruptions t they
conftantly ftudy to proceed as much as poffiblc in a ftraight line ;
and that they may not lofc thcmfclvcs in thofe dark and melan-^
choly woods, the firft who lights upon the m9ft convenient way,
marks all the trees with an axe (as is done in America), in order
to
raROUGH FINLAND. 233
to point out the route to fucb as may come after him. Thofe
roads, however, are full of ftones, which render travelling extremely
unpleafant. Our bones were feverely bruited by the
eternal jolting of the fledge. After the embarraflments of this
foreft, we received forae corapenfatioh for our flow and tedious
progrefi, by the agreeable tenfation we experienced in crofling a
lake, where we teemed to fly with all the velocity our horfes were
capable of, and without being in the Icaft thaken. We courageoufly
braved the danger of dcftru^lion with which the cracking
of the icc feemed to threaten us, and difregarded the rents
which ran in all dire<flions under our feet. We certainly thould
not have encountered the perils we were expoted to in crofling
this river, had we not found travelling by land a thoufand times
more fatiguing and dilagrceable, both on account of the bad flatc
of tlie furface for our mode of travelling, and the inconvenience
of the ftones which fometimes made us ftart from the fledge, before
we were aware of the obftaclc that lay in our way.
It was principally between Tuokola and Guinflla that we found
travelling on the river harafling and dangerous ; and we ftiould
probably have periflicd but for tlic alfiftancc of two pcajants, who
undertook to ferve us as guides, and point out to us the places of
the river where the icc was flrongeft and in befl: condition to fupport
us. Between Tuokola and Gumfila the river is extremely
rapid, and the current being ftrongcrin forae places than in others,
the ice in thofe parts is of a flender texture, fo that it was neceflary,
in order to enfure our fafety, to. have a perfeft knowledge of the
VoL. I. H h diredion
TRAVELS 334
direaion of the cufrent in fummer. Our guides went before us
in their fledge, and we followed clofe behind them with .all the
precifion which an affair of fuch delicacy and importanec requires.
Having come to a part of the river which was almoft
entirely open, we thought it would be imprudent to attempt to
pals it. We had however no alternative, but cither to return and
travel five or fix miles by land, with all its known inconveniencies,
or palling hard by a houlc, to make bur horles leap a barrier, and
drag the fledge over a heap of floncs, till we Ihould arrive again
at the ice of the lame river. We chole to prefer this lafl: mode
of proceeding ; the horles cleared the barrier, we all gave our
alfillance to lift up the fledge and throw it on the other fide, and
we re-embarked on the iec dole by a little mill. Having got
upon the ice, we were mudb furprifed and concerned to find, that
we had given ourlclves all this trouble only to reach a place where
we had perils ftill more alarming to encounter. The river was
open on both fides, and it was ncccflhry for the fledge to pals over
a cruft of ice which had maintained itlelf in the middle, and under
which the water made a frightful noift. Our guides, who ventured
on it firft, affured us that ffrere was no danger, and that
when we had crofled this piece we Ihould have nothing more to
fear during the remainder ofpur journey. It was at the moment
a bitter pill to fwallow ; but it promiled to procure us much
comfort afterwards. Although our guides had by this time gpt to
the other fide, our anxiety was not diminilhed ; we were unable
to conquer the reludance excited in our minds by the view and
noife

THROUGH FINLAND. 235

noifc of tbe.vriatcr, the rapidity of thcvcuiren^i '^^^ Ihcwcd itfelfiat
two op^ings, and by the apparent fra^lity of tlhe dmft of
icc iyhich was to fupport us in the midlf of the ftream. With
exem^ary difcrction' we embraced the wile, expedient (which '
made Qur Finlandilh pealants laugh imnioderately) of crying
upon our knees, pafling a hillock of ice that obftrufled our wayln
that humble pofture, and of Hiding on our feat to the oppoHte itde
where we joined our Hedge, which waited Our arrival. I'hMi ridi-;
culous feene: was highly entertaining, ' and converted ihto mi^
the terror of all our dangers.-
Haring efoHed the river Ot this pia<Xi>. ^r. guides ii^^
that we had no farther occaHon/or thOmi Xpd thatyvO. nilS^ti^rfue
our journey without the fnhalieft appiehenfion. .'IFliey In^^
left us without waiting for any fort of recom^nce- for their fcrvices
; and when we called them back and oHPered them money,
they feemed^jfdlohilhcd that we liquid think rewarding them.
One of them remained deaf to all our importunities, refufed our ;
money with fomnefs and digni^i went away without it. Ottt
^
narrow minds, that are filled with notions ofwhat is called refinem<
uiti are at a folk to conceive hovif thofe people, who appear fo
poot^i^ low in our eyes, merely be^dfe they have not a cwtlj^t
aft^^: model of our^ Hiodld iefule money, and fubinjtili^<>
;
mti<^''t^ yitily for the pleaf^ of .l^ng ufolul to oth^,^ khd
the/^i^ iatisladion of d^tig^goo^; Such ecampleikhut j
ra^tg|^- little kno^*n|^|!^|^^?^rcjb;e^rea|i^^
nof^^ ihofe places wIij|p^'"l^^ftOTed from a adetropedis, v
tRAVELS
where morals have become the vidim of felfilli and corrupt paffions.
It is the traveller, who, conftantly carrying about with him
his ideas of civilization (which is often only a different name fur a
ly ftcm of refined felfifhnefs), introduces his degraded notions into
the bofom of a fithple people, obliging from inftind, and gene*
rous and beneficent from nature. We for ever confider it as incumbent
upon us to reward every little attention with money;
and knowing no gratification equal to that of receiving pecuniary
acknowledgment, we render the pureft pleafurcs of our nature
venal by the recompences we beftow, and corrupt and debafe, by
views of intereft, that fenfe of duty which is cherifhed by a fentiment
of pleafure, and enjoyed by every moral heart upon performing
a good adion to his fbllbw men.
CHAPTER
THROUGH FINLAND. *27
CHAPTER XVI.
The Journ^ continuedBrightnefs and Transparency ofthe Ice, and
the probable Beafon of itStop at SillanpeArrival at Wafa
Account of this Town : its Situation, Trade, and Inhabitants
The Tribmial for the Government of the florth of Finland, at
WafaThe Prfdent and GovernorAnecdotes ofLinnaus.
"OEFORE we reached Wafa, wc were ftill not without fonac
apprehcnfion from travelling on the rivers of Finland. Hitherto
the ice being covered with fnow of a dirty furface, and far from
Ihewing the fmalleft tranfparency, made us for the moft part forget
that we went upon water ; we were npw to learn what fort of
fenfation we Ihould experience in palling over a river, where the
ice, tranfparent as cryftal, difeovered under our feet the whole
depth of the element below, inlbmuch that we could fte even the
fmalleft iilhes. In the fiift moment of furprize, having had no
previous notice of the change, we fancied ourfclves inevitably loft,
and that we ihould be fwallowcd up, and perilh in the awful gulf.
Even the horfe himfclf was ftartled at the novelty of his fituation ;
he fuddenly ftopped ihort, and ftemed unwilling to go forward. But
the impulfe he had acquired in travelling pulhed him forward in
fpite of himftlf, and he Aid, or rather Ikated upon hiafourjointlefs
*3$ TRAVELS
legs, for the fpacc of eight or ten yards This ftrangc mode of
travelling with a fkating horie, upon an clement where w'c could
count the fillies under the fledge and under the horlcs feet, was
not very amufing to us, though wc were already accullomcd to a
road of ice. I was at fome pains to fatisfy myfelf as to the reafbn
why the ice was fo clear and pellucid in particular parts of the river
only ; and 1 think I difeovered it in the united adlion of the folar
rays and of the wind. The wind having fwept away the fnow
and cleared the liirfa^e ofthe ice, the fun, at the end of March and
beginning ofApril, having acquired confiderable force, had melted
and rendered fmooth the furface, which at firfl is always fomewhat
rough and uneven ; this bding frozen during the night, formed a
mirror of the mofl: perfeA polifh. The luftre of the ice on this
river is very remarkable ; had it not been for the little fhining
and perpendicidar fifTuees, which fhewed the diameter of the ices
thicknefs, it would have been utterly impoflible for us to diflinguifh
it from the water below. Where the river happened to be
of. a profound .depth, we could perceive our vail diftance from the
bottom only by an indiftind greenifh colour : the reflexion that
.we were fufpended over fuch an abyfs made us fhudder. Under
this terrifying impreflion, the vaft depth of the river, and dazzled
by the extraordinary tranfparency and brilliancy of the ice, we
crept along the furface, and felt inclined to fhut our eyes, or
turn away our heads, that we might be Icfs fenfible of our danger.
But when the river happened to be only. yard or two deep, vfe
were amufed. to be able to count riie pebbles kt the bottom df
the water, and to frighten the fifhes with our feet.
THROUGH FINLAND. *39
Before our arrival at Wafa we Rill endured much bodily fatigue
from the rough motion of the fledge ; and we were obliged to
make a paufe at a fmall place called Sillanpe, which ferved as a
ftage or poR-houfc. Here we found a public houle kept by a
widow, and fo overjoyed were we to meet again with the comforts
of life, that we remained with her two whole days.
Wafa is the firffi ,town you meet with upon entering Oftrobothnia.
It is built entirely of wood, and the houles for the
greater part only confifl; of one ftory. Walk is a confiderablc ftapelflad,
fltuated under the 64th degree of north latitude. It is
one hundred and flxty-two miles from Stockholm, forty-one from
Abo, fourteen from Gamla Carleby, and eight and a half from
Ny Carleby. The town was founded, with a parilh church,
Muftafaari, by Charles IX. It was endowed with certain privileges
in 1611, and named after the illuftrious houfe of Walk,
being at the fame time honoured with the permilflon of bearing
the arms of that family. The late king of Sweden, Guflavus III.
eftablilhed at Wafa, in the year 1775, a tribunal, or fupreme
council for the north of Finland, the inftitution of which was ceiebrated
with great pomp at Stockholm, on the 26th of June,
1 776, In its dcpcndancc arc three governments, viz. Wafa, Uleaborg,
and Knopia,* two jurifdidions, and feven territorial judges.
The
* Before this inftitMtioA the inhabitants of thofe diftnfts were under the neceffity
of carrying their difputes to Abo. After informing myfelf as well as I could
refpedidg the adminiftratidh of this (libuhal, I found that there are a third more
iaWfuitsnovjr tlian tlwe ufed to be ,when tbe people were obliged to carry tliem
to
^40 TRAVELS r:
The building appropriated to the fittings nf the i(^nr^ is- built
of ftone clofe to the town, and upon the deefivityjof rifing
ground to the fouth-caft, oppofite to the governors palace and
the royal farm of Thorfixolai. This edifice is feventy yards in
length by twentyfeven in breadth, and thirty-three in height,
and coi^fifts of three fi;ories< In front it is ornanaented with a
clock. It is c^ the dorie order of arebitedure, and is altogether
one of the handfomeft buildings in the kingdom. On the frieze
is oblervable the following inlcription : Gufravus III. R, . S.
anno Imperii XII.* extruxit Themidique dicavit. To the weftward
is an open place, a hundred yards broad, and two hundred
and fifty-five in letigth, called tKe.market-place of Guftavus, from
which, oppofite to the-front of the houfe, runs an avenue ,of four
rows of trees on each fide, a hundred yards broad, and five hundred
long. Around the market-place are ere<fted. the houfes of
the members of the tribunal, in a ftyle of perfeA lymmctry. The
inhabitants, for the ornament of the town, have begun to plant
avenues of trees to the eaft, north and fouth ofthe railing that indofes
the building.
The town of Wafa is in a very improving condition, both as to
the daily cxtenfiort of its trade, and the incrcafing numjber of its
commodities. As it now ftands, it covers a furface^of .fisfreen
hundred yards in length, and a thoufand in breadth, and contains
lo lo great a diftance ; which feems to prove that tribunals and lawyers multiply
Jaw>fuits, juA as phyficians are faid fometimes to bajfe added to the number of
difcales,
'
ieventeen
THROUGH FINLAND. 241
lerenteen ilreets, fcven of which run from north to fouth, and
cut thc.remaining ten at right angles. The llrcets are all ftraight
and not too narrow; Here is a church which in common belongs
to the town and the parilh of Mu(btari ; allb a fchool and a laza>
retto. The burying ground is upon a neat plain of coniiderable
elevation, at a quarter of a miles diilance from the town. Bcfidcs
the fupreme court, which is conftituted by the burgomafters and
couniellors, there is likewile a fubordinate court ofjuftice, which
is the only one in this government.
The trade of this town with foreign nations is rather conlidcrable:
their chief articles of exportation are tar, pitch, rafters,,
deals which they fend to Stockholm, beiides rye, butter, butchers*
meat chi^y beef, oil ofteals, ikins, tallow, &c. : ihips for (ale, which
arc generally conftruiSlcd of fir, are alfo built here. Wafa has an.
annual market or (sat, on the 24th of Auguft, but it b of little
confequence.
Among the efcablilhmcnts of public utility you may reckon a
a medicine repofitory (which in England would be called a medicine
warehoufe, or apothecarys ihop), a medical or botanical
garden, a doth mamifeSure, a workhoufe fcr twitting tobacco,
and a plantation of fcven acres of that deftroyer of men's morals as
well as three tan yards; a manufadlory for oil from the
ieal, tvro dye-houfi, and a building for the boiling of pitch. '
The old harbour is difficult of accefs,. but there is a new one
* Thus wrote King James T. of England.. What abfurd opinion is there that
has not been lanAioned by authors I
V0L.I. i: .
fituated
24s TRAVELS
fituatcd a mile from the former, which is more convenient. lu
/the year 1 794 fix fliips were employed for foreign and three for
home trade.
In the year I790, Wafa confifted of three hundred and eightyfour
houfes and houfc-ftcads, four hundred and fifty-five families,
eleven hundred and fifty- five citizens paying taxes, of between
fifteen and fixty years of age. The number of males was in all
two thoufand one hundred and feventy-fix. The town is bound
to equip nine failors for the royal navy. The revenue of the maritime
cuftom-houfc for the' year 1/84 was eighteen hundred
and fifteen rix dollars.
In the vicinity of the town arc fprings of mineral water, called
Guftavuss wells, after the prefent prince royal : they were firft
difeovered in the year 1 750. Since the royal tribunal was eftablilhcd
here, a new high road has been made by order of his ma-
jefty, which goes through the parifhes of Happo, Alajauoi, Saurejavoi,
and from Haukas to Cuopio, a town of Savolax. Having
paid our compliments to the prefident and governor, we had prefently
an invitation to dine with them. They made it their bufi
nefs to invite the moft inteiefting fbcicty of Walk to meet us
:
they treated us magnificently, and in the fame ftyle of cferemony
that we had experienced at Stockholm; for here, as in other
countries, the towns of the provinces always look up to, andftudy
to imitate the manners of the capital.
It feemed to me like a dream to meet here a lady fo amiable,
lb well informed, and fo polifhed in her manners as we found the
wife
THROUGH FINLAND. M3
wife of the prcfident of the court of juftice : flic undcrflands
Italian ^nd French, and has acquired a taftc for the beauties of our
bed Italian poets.
I faw at the houft of the prefident a very intelligent and convcrfablc
clergyman. We had much converfation concerning the
Finlanders, efpecially on the fubjeft of their poetry, and he mentioned
a variety of interefting particulars. Speaking of Linnaeus
with whom he had been well acquainted at Uplala, he had much
to fay OH the chara<Slcr of the Swedifli naturalirt, and dwelt particularly
on the extreme vanity which that great man feems to
have carried to the mod dilguding length. He related to me
fome anecdotes w hich gave drong indications of that weaknefs.
A lady of the province of Upfala, who had never been beyond its
boundaries, applied to a friend of Linnaius for a letter of recommendation,
that flic might have an opportunity of making the
acquaintance of this eminent charader, and at the fame time fee
his colledion. The philofopher received her with much politcnefs,
and as he was fliewing her the mu/eum, the good lady was
fo filled with adonifliment at the fight of an ademblage of dich
a number of diderent objeds, upon each of which Linn-Tius had
always ibmething to remark, that file exclaimed with a figh, I no
logger wonder that Idnnteus isfo wtll known ever the whole province
of V^ala ! Linnaeus, who indead of the province of Upfala expeded
to hear the whole miverfct was fo ihocked, that he w'ould fliew
her nothing more of the mufoum,. and fent the lady away quite
cenfounded at the clTaDge of bis humour, and at the fame time
I i 2 firmly
244 TkAVEI^
firmly believing that her high encomium had wounded the feelings
of the great philofophcr. Ohc day, being In a melancholy
temper, he gave orders that no perfon ttibuld be admitted to hini,
and placed himfelf, in his bed-giSWri and night-cap, fad and penfive
upon his fofa. An officer in the Swedifh fervice arrived with
a party of ladies, vifho' had made a journey for the exprefs purpefe
df fedng the Litina^ colle^iott. The cffi'ccr was denied
admittance; but being aware of Linnaeuss caprice, he would not
be rtfufed by the fervant, but pulhed by him, and entered the
chamber where Lihnus was fitting. At firft feme indignatiou
was flicWn at this intrufidn ; but the officer introduced the ladies
with a fflbft extravagant panc^ric, to the ilhiftirious phthfoplier,
who was tJieJhle ohjeSi oftheirjowtuy , to the man whom thi mohok
world allowed to be the great to'lhdt man who had put 'nature
herfelf to the rack in order to difether hef dearejl fecrets, &c. Linmaeus'sfiirly
humour infiantly forffibh him, and he never appeared
more amiable in his manners than to this officer, whom he embraced
tenderly, calling him his true friend, &c. &c. He was fb
fingularly efiamoured of praife, that his mind was never in that
fedatc ftate which w'ould have enabled him to diftinguiffi true
commendation from flattery and deception. ' The clergyman,
'who at firfl: could not credit fuch reports, was convinced of their
reality by one of his friends, who compofed fo ridiculous an eulogy
for Linnaeus, that the weakefl: child might have treated it as
a farce or fatire : it was worded in the bombafl; of the middle
ages, or in the Afiatic fiyle : he called him the fun ofbotanifls,
'
the
THROUGH F^AND. 345
the Jupiter, of the literati, the fecretary of nature, an oeeau of
fcicncej a moving mountain of erudition, and other appellations
to the fame cfFedl. Linnaeus, far from feeling difpicafurc at fuch
exeeffive and ridieulous compliments, interrupted the panegyrift
at each phrafe, embracing him, and calling him his dcareft friend.
The governor invited us to dine with him the following day.
At table, talking of oeconomy, it was agKcd by the company that
Walk was the tovvn of all others where one may live on the
chcapeft terms. A woodcock, which at Stockholm would cod;
thirty-two Swedilh Ikillings, or fixtecn pence*Englifli, is bought at
Wafa for four. The price of a water-quail at Stockholm, twelve
{killings, here is only two {killings the pair. Fire woodcoils almoil
nothing, except the trouble of cutting it. The clergyman obferyed,
that for three rix dollars be kept a tire in his apartment
every day without intermiddon during eight months of the year.
The prefidcnt is the firil peribn in Wafa, though, as his falary
is paid in paper, or rix-geld, he has about a thoufand rix dollars
lei^ than the governor, whoie appointment conliib in provifions
or natural produce, by which he regularly clears an annual inponne
of two thoufand four hundred rix dollars; a fum more than
(iifficiept to enable him to live in this place like a great lord.
CHAPTER
24$ TRAVELS
CHAPTER XVH.
Departurefrom Wafalncomentenctes of the Jotirn^ over the Ice
Arrival at Gamla Carlehy-^Account of this TownProceed on
the Journey : new Di^cu/ttes arifing from the IceAccount of
BralujiadArrival at Uleaborg.
,
C
A S travelling in the fledge becomes extremely difficult at this
advanced period of the fcafbn, we forefaw that we fhould
have a very painful and difagreeable journey from Wafa to Ulciborg.
The governor of Wafa earneftly employed himfclf to trace
out for us a route, by which we might travel the greater part of
the diflance upon the ice ; at the fame time he ifTued an order,
by which the peafants of thofc diftrifts through which we were to
pafs, were enjoined to fupply us with horfes all the way to the
frontiers of his government. This was an additional mark of the
obliging attention which we had experienced in fb many inftances
from him during our ftay ; but his orders in their execution were
by no means of that advantage to us which we had reafon to expc^,
for the peafants in thofe parts are not at all in the habit of
conducing travellers, and are in want of many things nccelTary for
that purpofe. Their fledges arc ill conflruded; they arc extremely
flow in yoking their horfes, and have not a fufficient fupply:
we
THROUGH FINLAND. 247
wc therefore were conftantly obliged to wait for fome hours before
they had prepared for our departure.
The journey from Wafa to Uleaborg is about one hundred and
ninety Engliftx miles. Wc purfued our courfc along the coaft,
crofling rivers, woods, and branches of the fca, and were fomctimes
at a confidcrable diflance from the Ihorc. The whole of this
vaft traft of country is flat, and abounds in woods of firs and pines
of a very large fae. The coafts arc naked and ftony, and prefent
rocks and illets without the fmallcft appearance of vegetation.
Wc proceeded with the greateft diligence, but we became extremely
wearied by the mode of travelling wc were obliged to
adopt. Before we arrived at Gamla Carlcby, wc faw at fca two
frigates, and foon after pafled four or five merchant fhips which
the ice had detained, and conftrained to pafs the winter in thofc
regions.
Gamla Carlcby is a decent town, fituatad in a final! gulf of
the fca, and has Ibme trade : it is at the diflance of one hundred
and forty-fix Swedifli miles from Stockholm, if you go the ufual
north road towards Torned, fifty-five from Abo, and fourteen
from Wafa. It was founded in the year lfi20 by Guflavus Adolphus,
who'conferred upon it certain privileges, which have been
confirmed to the inhabitants at diiFcrent periods fidibe that time.
The town is regularly built, with a handfbme market-place, five
flireets in its length and five in its breadth, which are each twenty
yards wide ; and it contains two hundred and fourteen houleftcads,
or lots for houfes. In the year lyyo there were here thirtyone
348 TRAVELS
one merchants, three hundred and twenty-eight families, eight
hundred and twenty-feyen peribns paying taxes ; and the whole
number of inhabitants was tme t||ioufand three hundred and Oxtyieven.
The town has a church built of wood for the ufc of its
own inhabitants, and the burying ground is on the outfide of the
town.
The harbour, on account of a fand bank which blocks up its
entrance, is inacceiTible to Ihips heavy laden and drawing much
water, its depth being only from twelve to thirteen feet, fo that
large vedels arc compelled to lie in the road while they load and
unload : it is to be hoped, however, that this inconvenience will
ibon be remedied. . The town has alfo a place for loading in the
parUh Kalajoki, with a dock, and canies on a confiderablc trade in
Ihips built for exportation, in tanning, deals, butter, tallow, and
hops. It had in the year iyQ4 fourteen Ihips (amounting altogether
to one thouland five, hundred and thirty -fix .tons), of which
thirteen were for foreign trade ; thefe exported about one thoufand
eight hundred barrels of tar, one. thoufand five hundred barrels
of pitch, from three to four hundred dozens of planks, two
thouland pounds of butter, two hundred end feyenty-three hundred
weight of tallow, nine hundred Inn^ls .of ccurn, ,&c. The inland
cuftoml'for the year 1781 pmduced about tvyo thoufand one
hundred and, twenty-five, and thofo ^of the maritime departnicnt
two thouland and twenty-feven rix dollars.
The inhabitants of Gamla C^rlcby; plant tobacco, and prepare
tt.for tile 1 th^ arc eng^ed in other branches pf induflry ; theyr
raife
THROUGH ^INLAND. 249
raifc potatoes, lyc, and barley, and have about three hundred acres
of arabl'e land in cultivation. Not far from the town is a printicd
cotton maunfadlory ; alfo a houfe for boiling pitch, a ftote-houfc
for tar, a faw-mill near the mouth of the river Kulajoki, &c. The
magiftracy coniills of a burgomafter and fix council-men. About
a mile from Carleby arc fome fprings of mineral water.
From Gamla Garleby we continued our journey on the ice, and
experienced a new fenfation peculiar to this mode of travelling.
We have before obferved, that the froft is here fo intenle, as to
arreft the lea in its waving motion. The lun becoming more
powerful with the advancement of the feafbn, melted confidcrably
the ice on the furface. The water thus produced during the
day, colleded in the cavities or furrows, and formed little pools
or rivulets, which wc were under the neceffity of traverfing in our
fledges; and as they were always a cohfidcrablc depth in the
middle^l we faw ourfclves defeending we kneV' not where, and actually
thought wc Ihould fink to the bottom of the ocean. The
ititrepidity, or rather indifference, with which the Finlander made
his way through thofe pools, enojuraged us a little; but the recolleAion
that wc were Upon the fea, and a confeioufnefs that the
water was eriterthg our fiedge, excited at firft frightful apprchenfions,
and a continued dhagreeable feelmg.
in nights of feVere and intenfe cold', fudh as frequently occur at
that time of the year, a crufi; of iCe' is fbflhcd over thofe pools,
itifomoCh, that the water becoiheS inclblbd l^weeh two plates of
ice : ini this cafe the fledge, as it pafles over the upper cruft, which
VoL. I. Kk as
250 TRAVELS
is generally of but a brittle texture, breaks it, and fuddenly falls
into the vrater, which bubbles up all about the fledge, noV does it
Hop till it gets to the fecond layer of ice. This unexpedied fall
produces a horrible feniation ; and though there are rarely more
than two feet of difiance from one firatum of ice to the other, yet
the fight of the water, the plunging of the horfe, &c. are exceed*
ingly alarming.
In our travels on the ice we fell in with fllhermen who ule the
hook and bait : they.fometimes fiopped, and amufed us by fliewing
us the fifli they had caught. Their figure was a great curiofity
to us : they ^ur over the ice in loiig wooden pattens, and
fliove themfelves along with a pole they hold in their hand. The
velocity of their progiefi is almofi incredible ; and the wonderful
celerity of motion in their bodies, without the fmallefi preccptible
adion in their legs (for they ufc only their arms),- forms a very
firiking fight to a perlbn beholding them for the firft time. When
employed in filhing, they exhibit a very curious pidlure, on account
of the contrafi which is obfervablc in ill thofe objefts. They
carry along with them a finall tirlangular (ail, which, when they
have occafion to remain long ieated on the ice, they fpread, in
order to Ihelter them from the wind. Having perforated the ice
with a kind of chiiel, which makes a part of their apparatu^,.they
plunge the hook into the lea to the depth' of abbut thirty feet:
if the cold happens to be fbmewhat fevere, they am obliged to be
continually fiirring the water at the orifice ^the hole to jirevent
its freezing. We witnefled feveral luchy 'dips of the fifhermens
hooks.
THROUGH FINLAND. 251
hooks, and wc did not leave them till we had caught fbme lilli
ourfelveg. Afterwards, wifhing to try whether we could run on
the ice with their pattens, we afForded no fmall diverlion to thofc
good people by our awkward manner of ufmg them, as well as
by feveral falls, which were more amuilng to the fpedators than
agreeable to the performers.
You meet often in thole parts with what may be termed difruptions
of the ice, which form a ftrange pidlurefque appearance,
fometimes relembling the ruins of an ancient caftle. The caulc
of thcle difruptions is the rocks, which happen to be at the depth
of fome feet under the furfacc of the water. During the prevalence
of the intenfe cold, the water freezes frequently three feet
or more in thicknefs ; the elevation of the fea is confcquently diminilhed,
and finks in proportion to the diameter of the ice that
is formed; then thofe Ihelves and rocks overtop the furface, and
break the cohcllon of the ice, while accident depofits the detached
malTes and fragments in a thouland irregular forms. It is extremely
dangerous to traverfe the ice in thofe parts during night,
*
unlels you have the compals conftantly in your hand, and even
with it you,are not always fafe. The traveller is frequently intempted
by thofe. obftacles ; he often lofcs fight of the coaft,
while the whitcnefs,of the Ihow dazzles his eyes, and makes it
extremely difficjult to difeern the traces of the fledges which have
paired that way before : thus he is in no fmall danger of loling
the road, and of goin^ on in a different diredion, which may lead
Kk2 him
352 TRAVELS
bim hr in the icy defert ; an accident which happened to us more
than gncci
I have made no mention of Braheftad, a fmall town we pafTed
on the road, becauie I did not think it at the time of much confcquence
; I Ikall however give ibme account of it here. This
town is a ftapelftad, and iituated wider the C4th degree 43 minutes
of latitude, in the bailwick, and parilh of Salo, one hundred and
thitty-$ye leagues and a half from Stockholm (by the common
north road),* fixty-nine from Abo, eight and a half from UleSborg,
and thirty froth Waia. It ftands on the gulf of Bothnia,
at the top of a bay formed by two peninfulas: the town itfelf is
upon the main land. It was founded by Count Peter Brahe, who
confidered this htuation as particularly favourable for trade. The
town became bis property by purchafe, and in December 1649
he provided it with a charter and certain privileges: in 1652 it
was called after his name. Tbofe privileges were confirmed to
the town in l651, 1652, 1680 ; and the laft and moll: important,
by which it acquired the right of Rapellbd, to carry on foreign
trade, is dated the yth April 1791. For its armorial bearings it
has part of the arms of the family of Brahe, vix. a horfe, and a
man with a lance and helmet. The harbour was once good and
convenient ; but at prefent itis choaked up with mud, inlqmuch
that only fmall vefiels, or large ones, with half i^eir cargo, are
able to enter it. Ships drop anchor at the mouth of the. harbour,
a quarter of a mile from the market place.
* Which runs along the gulf of i^thnia'tb TotheS.
The
THROUGH FINLAND. 255
The trade of the town coniifts in pitch, tallow, butter, hides,
furs, fnoall quantity of falmon, and other filh. The exports,
for fbme years before 1 792, taken at an average, amounted to
fourteen thoufand four hundred and forty-four barrels of tar, ten
thoufand hundred weight of butter, and one thouland five hundred
and feventy-one hundred weight of tallow. Their traffic
in butchers meat was jonce confiderable, as well as that of preferves
of rubus chumaemorus, a berry peculiar to 'Sweden. They
allb export wood and planks for ihipping, which are cut by a law*
mill on the river Pyhajoki. From abroad they import fait, of
which the town takes care to have a conftant fupply of one thouland
eight hundred tons. In the year 1794, the town had fourteen
fhips of one thoufand and fifty-five tons burthen in all : of
thefe, four, or perhaps fix, are employed in foreign trade. They
. have a rope-work, and a cotton manufadory, fiifficient for home
confiimption, and a good fifhery.
The town paiTefies but a very fmall territory. In the year
1790 the number of the inhabitants was feven hundred and fixtythree;
and. of five hundred and forty who paid %xes, twentyeight
were merchants and thirty-two burgefles. The number
of the hott&s in 1794 was one hundred and twenty-four, the
families two hundred and-twenty-five, perfons paying taxes fiA^e
hundred and &yenty-two. duties colledled at the maritime
.duftom-houfe for the year 1791 > amounted to one thoufand
and twenty-five rix dollars thirty fkillings. Clofe to the town
there are a manufadory of pitch, and a ftorehoufe for tar : there
254 . TilAyEI^ ,,
is, bdidcs, another manufadory of pitch at Pyhajoki. The inhabitants
arc provided with milk frpm the pariihes of Pybajoki
and Kulajoki.
We arrrived at Uleaborg on the feventh of April, where we
found, clofe by the town-houfe, a tolerable inn, which is the only
one in the place. At night, after we were gone to bed, we were
furprifed by an incident which appeared tet us very extraordinary
in a country of ib high a latitude. I have long been in the dangerous
habit, before falling alleep, to read a book for half an hour.
That evening I happened to be reading Ariofto, when I thought I
heard three taps on the window of our chamber, which was on the
ground floor. I paid not the fmallcfl: attention to it the firfl;
nor even the fecond time. When it was repeated the third time,
I began to fufped; it had ibmc meaning ; but as I read Arlofto, 1
was difpolcd to doubt whether it was not an efFed of my imagination,
heated perhaps by that of the poet. The fourth time,
however, I had Icarcc the lhadow of a doubt that it was fbmebody
who tapped at the window ; but 'flill, to guard againfl; illufion,
I awaked my companion, who flept in another bed in the
fame room; and after acquainting him with my impreflion,
prayed him to liften, and obferve whether he could not hear a
noife at the window. We then heard the three traps repeated,
accompanied with a voice, whichi uttered fomething indiflindly.
I role, put on my pelice, and taking up my piftols went out of
the chamber to fee what it might be. But how great was my
lurprife !....It was a fine girl who wanted a corner of a bed. 1
immediately
through FIKXAM). 255
immediately' uncocked, and laid afide the piftols, for fear of doing
mifchief....What happened afterwards ?....Fbr the fblution of fnch
difficult problems, Ariofto generally refere to another canto j but
for the folution of this, let the reader conjediire what might have
happened to himfelf in ftmilar circumAances.
CHAPTER
56 TRAVEtS'
ciHAinrER xViii.
Account of Ule'aborg : Situation, Population, and TradeMineral
Springs near UlehhorgThe Soil in the Neighbourhood of this
Town, and its mineral ProduSlionsThe Climate and Seafons
Vegetation, and animal Creation.
T TLEABORG is a ftapclflad, iituated in 65 degrees north la- ^ titude. It was founded by Charles
IX. in i0o5. It has
two cuftom*houies, one for the land, and one for the fea ; two
fquares, fixtcen ftreets, and is divided into quarters. T^e population
is about three thouiwd eight hundred fbuls. The articles of
exportation are as follow
:
Tar (exported annually) tons 30,000
Pitch, ditto
_
1 3,boo
Butter, ditto - 36,000
Tallow, ditto ~ ^0,600
Salmon, ditto . 2,066
Dried pike, ditto ~ ^ - 4^600
A peculiar fpecies ofherrings, ditto ~ ' 3^66
Planks, ditto ~ dbziris'' bb'ff '

The goods that are imported from abroiA afe,^virihe, oil, add
lemons, which altogether do not amoqnt to mubh^ Th'c yearly
' impbrtatioti
THROUGH FINLAND. *57
importation of fait amounts on an average to almoft ten thoufand
tons : k is brought from the Mediterranean, and particularly from
Spain.
Under the head of manufactures come two faw>mills, two cornmills,
three fulling-mills for ftutFs of wool and linen cloth ; a
tobacco manufactory, and three dying houfes. The public revenue
produces eight thoufand rix dollars per annum. Uleaborg fends
four Ihips to the Mediterranean, which return laden with difterent
articles, but principally fait. Befides thcfe, there are other veflcls
employed in freightage.
In the iflands at the mouth of the river are two or three docks
for building fhips, where about fix vcffcls every year of different
fizes arc conftrufted. The port of Uleaborg is a very bad one :
the Ihipping is obliged to remain in the road about two Englilh
miles from the towui and to load and unload by means of lighters.
The road itfdf is every year more and more filled up with fand
and gravel.
In the year lOoo^ Uleaborg* was vifited by Charles IX. ; in lOlS
by Guftavus Adolphus ; in l6g4, by Charles XL; and in 1752,
by Adolphus Frederic. It was attacked by the Ruffians in 14Q8,
1517, 158Q, and I5g2. In 1714^ and 1743, it was treated with
particular feverity by tho(e invaders, and almoft ruined.
There are at Uleaborg ibme mineral iprings, and valetudinarians
come hither for the purpofe of drinking the waters. In the year
1
7
gd> there were among thcfe but three or four foreigners, which,
y^'hen contrafied with the multiplicity of thoie who rcfbrt to
spa, and other places on the continent, makes this* place appear
VoL. I. L 1 very
2i8 TRAVELS
very , infignificant. The chemical properties of the Uleaborg
waters arc thefc :
A
vcffel of a hundred cubical inches^ contains
Sal digeilivum feu
Alkali vegetabile 1.0
Alkali minerale 5.7
Calx vitriolata 0.8
Calx aerata I.9
Ferrum 1.2
t
Terra filicca I.7
To which muft be added twdve cubic inches of carbonic acid,
and ten of hepatic gas.
The river Ulea, on the banks of which the town is tuatcd,
tolls down with a great noife ; and its navigation is attended with
conlidetable danger. The trading veiTels which go on this river
to the lea, are conducted by pilots paid by government, and matriculated
or regillered. None of the Finnilh pealants,. unlefs thus
regiftered, arc permitted to engage in that navigation- This regulation
was adopted to prevent the continuance of accidents which
frequently happened in the river, by boats being upfet and people
drowned, who were going up and down. Such is the velocity
with which Ihips perform their conrle down the river, that they
generally run fix Englifli miles in the fpace of twenty minutes.
The falmon filhery here is very confiderable ; and the lalmon of
Uleaborg fetch a higher price at Stockholm than thofe of any
other place. Speaking of falmon, I fliall be excuied by my reader
for relating i faifl, not more lingular than well authenticated
A gentleTHROUGH
FINLAND. *59
A gentleman of Uleaborg went thence by fea to Stockholm; on
his return, the Ihips Reward, in cleaning the plate after dinner,
let fall into the fea a filver fpoon, which was fwallowed by a falmon
that chanced to pafs by. The day after this falmon made
his way up the river near Uleaborg, where it was caught by a
filherman. The filhcr went to fell the fpoon to a filvcrfmith, who,
on recognizing the cypher, immediately conveyed it to the gentlemans
wife. The lady, who had not received any intelligence
from her hulband ilnce his departure from Uleaborg, was ftruck
with the belief that he had been Ihipwrecked ; and this feefned
the more probable, as his return had been delayed by contrary
winds. The gentleman at laR confolcd his afAiflcd wife by his
re-appearance, and amufed her with the recital of the mode in
which the filver fpoon was loft.
With regard to the foil in the ^cinity of Uleaborg, it differs in
feme particulars ; but it is generally fandy. In the valleys, on the
fidcs of rivulets, and on the banks of the river Ulea, there is to be
found fome mould ; but in fuch fmall quantities as fcarcely to
be worthy of notice. If there be any to be difeovered elfcwherc,
it has either been wafhed down from the adjacent hills, or has
been ground on which country-houfes formerly flood. Marl, the
creta argillacea fiffili-frtahiYts, Linn, is, as far as I know, not to be
met with in this neighbourhood, nor chalk, nor lime-earth ; but
lime-ftonc has been found in the parifhes of Kemi Muhos, Paldamo,
and Fijao. In Padesjerfoi a copper-mine has been difeovered,
which is now wrought. The ore is pyrites ferrco-cup-
L 1 2 reus.
iCo TRAVELS ;
reus, Linn. In feveral places in the vidnity, tifpecially in the
pariihes of Paldamo and Sotkamo, there is iFon>eartfar orochre.
The peafants, wthout any affiftance from others, make for
themfeivcs as much good iron and Reel as they have occafion for.
From Sotkamo Mr.' Julin * brought, and has in his poiTeffion, a
ilrong blood-ftone ore, with cryllal ; and this alia is to be found
at Kemi. On the Idi-fhores of Kemi, near Paldamo and Kalajoki,
you meet vvith great qmmtities of black land impregnated
with iron. In fome places about Kenu, Sotkamo, Kufamo, and
Paldamo, you will light upon a Ipedes of Hate, the/chi/im arde-
Ja, Unit, arrai^ed, 1 believe, by the late mineralogifts under the
genus of ardejia teguhrit. ' It ' is not, however, good for roofing.
The molt common fort confiib of fand confolidated by clay, oi
a mixture of clay and quartz.
Belides the gri^ and red granite, the moll common Hone here,
you will find a reddilh and clear quartz pebble Hone, flint Itonc,
feltlpar, and rock ciyftal, being the mtrum qmrtxojum aqaeum,
Linn. Black Ihorl, (fchoerhm f nigrumJ is to be ieen in a few
places near Sotkamo and Reovanjenui in the neighbourhood of the
town, below the quicklands, and on tbe roar^sof takes. - Clay prevails
throughout the whole of the pariihes of Kemi, Paldamo, and
Sotkamo. You meet withyaxutn micaceum j^le cinereum fttomis
interJiin6iU quartzojs micaceyque, lattn. of various colours, but
moftly of black-grey; as alfo the /a/cuai o/Zure, InPudef-
. This gentleman will be again mentioned hereafier.
t See Retzics Mineralogtai genus Schoerhun.
jervi
Trough FiNL^D. aei
jcrvi and Sotkamo,' at the village of Riftiarfoi, and in the parifli
of Paldanio> inill^llones may be obtained, which conliR of a very
good fand-ftonCk About a couple of miles to the northward
of Uleaborg, is found on the highway the well known Raj)ahhi,
whichi according to Kirwan, is an aggregate offcltj^ar and
mica\ its colour is brown, or brownifli red; it moulders by cxpofure
to the air ; but that is only when the mka exceeds. Mr.
Kirwan adds, when XhcfeltJ^ar exceeds, it forms a durable ftone,
called in Italy
There is no great chain of mountains nearer to Uleaborg than
the land ridge to the north-eafl, and eaft lbuth>eafi ; the ground
A^
Dcing for the moft part low, and covered with coppices, bogs,
and moralTcs j which give to the country around the town a dull
and heavy appearance. The fituation being damp> and not fuih-
cicntly Iheltered, the cfFedsof night frofts arc always fcvcrcly felt.
The land ridge is a vaU; chain of mountains running eallward,
from the Haldeiidd in Tomea Lapmark to Pclctowaddi in Kcmi,
forming a boundary between Sweden and Norway, arid between
the parilhes Eruua and Soetankyla ; and after ftretching farther to
the fouthoeaft, it proceeds fouthward through Kemi to Wiifewana>
by the church of Kuufamo, to SarwitaiiTal, and hence extending
to Kc^uretapal, it conRitutes the boundary between the
paiiihes of Paldamo, Sotkarpo, and Rullia.
* See Kitwans dements ofMineralogy, yd. i. p. &45. By Unnxus it was fiiil
called muriafaxi ex micifpau jue, and thus characterifed : Conjlat faxo aggregate
ex fpoteflave et mteit deli(jejtente fub die verfus meridiem. And in the later
ediUons it was teimoi, /axum /ati/cenSf and defetibed in this manner : /paiefum
micaceumquefal/m/ati/cens.
Places
162. TRAVELS
m
Places lying under the fame latitudesi or where the days and
nights at the folftlces are of the fame length, are laid in general
to have the fame climates. With regard to the geographical climate
of Uleaborg. it correfponds with that of Kemi in Ruflia,
of Gorodock and Kuoovatlkai in Siberia, of Cape Tfchukotfkoi
Nos, towards the Frozen Sea, of St. Jamess in North America, of
the fouthern cape of Greenland, of Skalholt in Iceland, and Drontheim
in Norway.
By the phyhcal climate is meant the difference of cold and
'
heat, and the condition of the weather in different places at the
fame feafbns. The principal and moll general caufes of the divcrfity
of phyfical climate, are the longer or Ihorter continuance*
of the fun above the horizon, and the perpendicularity or obliquity
of hls rays ; befides this, the ftatc of the attnofpherc, which
furrounds the earth to the height of ten Swedifh (or nearly feventy
'
Englifli) miles, and which accordingly, as it is more or lets charged
with s'apours, intercepts and difperfes more or left of the funbeams
in their defeent to the earth. The climate is alfb modified
by the fltuation of places on hills or plains, near the fea or on continents.
The mild winters in England are owing to the warmneft
of the furrounding ocean, while Switzerland, lying fix degrees
farther to the fbuth, experiences a much greater degree of cold, on
account of its topographical fituation.
The fouth and fbuth fouth-weft winds blowing towards Uleaborg,
along the gulf of Bothnia, are for the inoft part warm after
midfummer till autumn ; but before midfummer, as long as the
gulf
THROUGH FINLAND. 263
gulf is frozen over, they arc always cold. The extraordinary degree
oftcold that prevails at Ulcaborg is in a great. meafure owing
to the vaft forefts and dclerts, which retain a great portion of ice
even in fummer. In proportion to the progrefs of agriculture,
as water and wood arc cleared away from the furface, which prevent
the fun from warming the earth, it may be expefted that
the climate of this place will become more mild and gentle.
From a comparifon of obfervations made at Stockholm and
Uleaborg, it appears that the heat of the thermometer of Celiius,
at a mean height at Stockholm tliroughout the whole year,
is nearly 0 above 0, whereas at UlcSborg it generally (lands at
1 2-lOths below the freezmg point; of cour(e the climate of
Ulcaborg difrers by 7 2-lOths. During a fpacc of tw'enty years
the mercury at Stockholm fell (even hundred and nine times to
>5 degrees, and once as far as 40 degrees below the freezing point.
At Uleaborg there are two months more of winter than at
Stockholm, and one third le(s of (pring. The autumn is officarly
the fame duration in both places. As to the comparative length
of the autumn, this depends not only on the lingering courfe of
the fun in the autumnal (blfrice, but more on the fouth and
fouth-weft winds which prevail in the months' of Auguft, September,
Odober, and part of November. Thole winds which
come from the gulf of Bothnia are warmed by the water,- which
prelervcs a greater degree of heat than the atraofphere. But on
the contrary, in the ^winter fcafon, when the fea is frozen, the
winds which blow .from the fame quarter, are cold and difagreeable.
264 TRAVELS
able, as are thofe alio of the weft and nortk*weft. ^ The eaft and
north-cail winds are in general warm in fpring, becaufe thoie
winds, after crofting the White Sea, traverfe more than thirty
Swedifti miles of land, covered with woods and moraftes, warmed
by the influence of the fun and of vegetation. But in the au>
tumn the fame Winds, after the marfhes are frozen, are very cold.
The frofls of the night during the fummer come on towards
the end. of Auguft, and fometimes even in July, as the froft; in
1 795, which was very fevere on the 25th of Jtfly, and f{X)iIcd
all the legumens and the more delicate culinary vegetables.
Notwithftanding the coldnefs of the climate , the animals thrive
very well, and vegetation is more rapid here than in any other
place. There are inftances of gram having been fbwn and reaped
in the fpace of fix weeks. The principal ca^ of this pheno*
menon is the fine nights, or rather the continual prefence of the
fun.
M?. Julin, whofe name I ihall have occafion to mention in the
following pages, communicated to me fome interefting obfer*
vations on the climate of Ulciborg, which I think will not be
deemed unworthy ofa place at the end of this chapter.
THROITCH FINLAND. *65
Some general Signs of Spring and Summer at Vleahorg, according to
, tvoentyfour years' Ob/ervation, by J. Julin.
About
March 5. - - The melting ice and fhow begin to trickle 6rom the roofe of the
houfes.
April i. - - The fnow-bunting (cmberiza nivalis, Lin.) appears.
April 25. - - The wild geefc and the birds of the lakes arrive.
The papilio urticse (Lin.) makes its appearance.
The lark (alanda urveniis, Lin.) iings.
The fields arc bare, i. e. free from fnow.
May 5. - - - The white wagtail (motacilla alba, Lin.) fhews itlclf.
The wheat ear, or white tail (motacilla oenantlie, Lin.)
May 1520. - The rivers open, and the ice melted. .
A beginning may be made of planting in the kitchen gardens.
May 25. - - The martin (hirundo urbica, Lin.) comes.
The cuckow (cuculus canorus, Lin.) calls.
The fpring corn is out.
May 30. - - Marfh marigold (caltha paluflris, Lin.) flowers.
Trees, for inftance the birch, (betula alba) put forth their leaves.
June 12. - - Summer*s warmth, of 12 degrees above 0.
August 10. - Night fiofls begin.
Augus r 20. - Hurveft begins. Winter rye (fecalo) is fown.
September 25. The birch (betula alba) fhedi its leaves.
November 20. The ice bears \ the ground is covered with fnow.
GENERAL REMARKS.
1. The Winter begins in O^ober, and lads full feven months, or till the end of
April. The Spring is fliort, and is over with the month of May. The Summer
omn)ences in June, and continues three months. Autumn takes its beginning
with September, and only extends to the end of that month.
2. The greated cold in winter is in January, and the greated heat in fummer
commonly towards the end of July.
3. The MIDDLE temperature for the whole year, ifwe except the periods when
the fcafons exert their particular influence, is about the freezing point of the thermometer,
or, in other Words, condant winter.
4. The night frofts are fometimes pretty lharp,,cfpecially from about the loth to
the 20th of Attgud. July 25th, 1785, feveral things in the kitchen gardens were bit
by the frod, for example the potatoes (fokmum tuberofum) and the beans (pliafcolus).
5. However fhort the fummer may be In this part of the world, the grafs and
corn neverthclefs grow fufficlcntly ripe. There have been iiidarlccs that the corn
was Town and brought in quite ripe in the fpace of forty-two days.
VoL. I. M m Extras
266 TRAVELS
Ex/raSifrom a Meteorological Journal kept at Uleaborg^ under
05' l' 3o" North Latitude^ by J. Julhu
DEGRIEES OF CF.LSIUss THERMOMETER.
Years.
UieuUft
Heat, i Cuid.
-
Heat. ']
Middle
Cold. Middle
Temperat.
1776 t 21 29 t 7 12 0 9' The middle height of the haro^
1777 22 27 7 12 2 2
meter
f
for the whole year, is
2.5 inches, and 29 decimal
1778 22 22 6 13 2 5 lines.
IT79 21 27 7 12 0 9
The middle height of the ;</-
ter descending from the at-
1780 20 29 , 6 15 3 4 mosphere amounts to 13^
inches in the year; which is
1781 20 40 6 15 3 0
upon an average thus calcu^
1782 23 37 9 10 0 I lated for the four seasons, viz.
1783 20 31 7 15 2 5
For Winter 6 deg. 0 min.
Spring 2 Q
1784 17 SO
1
^ 12 1 9 Summer 5 1
1785 1 25 SO 9 11 t 0 5
Autumn 0 5
The middle temperature of the
1786 27 32 11 11 t 1 O four seasons is, according to a
1787 25 31 21 10 t 1 0 mean proportion of twelve
years, as follows
:
. 1788 29 34 12 20 t 0 9 Winter 10 deg. cold

1789 30 34 16 20 t I 8 Spring 6 deg. warm f

Summer 15 deg. warm f
1790 26 28 11 16 t 2 7 Autum 6 deg. warm f
1791 24 21 11 14 t 3 1
1792 28 33 IS 19 t 1 7
1793 27 32 13 16 t 2 1
1794 28 24 13 16 t 4 0
1795 28 34
N. B. The sign (f ) signi-
1796 SO 31 fies warmth^ or that the ther^
1797 27 21
lAometer is abov^ the fre.ez'^
ing point*
1798 31 31 The sign () denotes cold.
or that the thermometer is
1799 40
below 0.
Medium t 24 8' 30 6' t 10 0' 14 0' t 0 2'
THROUGH FINLAND. 367
CHAPTER XIX.
Stay at Uleaborg protraied longer than was intended', Reajons af~
Jignedfor itInterefting Individuals mentiotiedCurious Experiments
with Animal Magnetifm : Reflexions on the extraordinary
Phenomena produced by itAdvantages attending a Rfidence in
fniall Country TownsHofpitality at UleaborgSpirit of Society
at that PlaceSingular Mode ofJhewlug Regard and Friendjhip
for a Stranger.
TT was our firft Intention to remain at Uleaborg only five days,
and by availing ourfelvcs, w'hilfl; the fealbn permitted, of the
ufe of the fledge, to pufli our travels with the utmoft expedition
as far northward as poflible, fb as to return in fummer, that we
might thus have furveyed the country in both ieafons, and witnefled
the interefting procefs and ftrangc fpe^lacle of an almoft
momentary tranfltion from winter to fummer. We might have
beheld the whole Surface of the ground covered with ice and
fnow ; have travelled with the rein-deer and roving Laplander
;
and in the fpace of two weeks have oblcrved the ice melt, the
fnow vanifh, the Laplander retire into his mountains, leaves and
flowers fpring up, and the whole lyftcm of vegetation difplay itj&
lf in all its beauty. This pifture, which vve reliflied fo highly
Mm2 bv
j<S8 tRAVElS
by anticipation, and which was fd flattering to a lively imagination,
yielded to the attradions of Uteaborg, which promiied. us
plcafures and refources of a different defbription. The polite attention
of Baron Silfverkielm, of Govenxw Carpalan, and the acquaintance
wc made of feveral other interefting charaders, and
the pkafing accident of flndiog here two gentlemen moteurp oi
mufic, who, with my companion and myfelf, could execute a
^liartetta, made us forget our plan, and convert our five days flay
into that of a couple of months. It being near the middle of
April, the feafon was too far advanced; the ice began to wafle,
and lofe its flrength, and the rivers became every day lefl fafe.
We ihould have run the rifle of being detained in a defert country
during the period of thaw, after which we muft have allowed
at leaft a week till the earth had recovered its fblidity, and the
md^y grounds had become dry. The attradive feene of tho
change of fcafons wc might view at Ulcaborg with nearly the
&me advantage ; and as to the phenomena of winter, we had already
feen fo much of them on our journey from Stockholm, that
our cuiriofity was nearly , gratified. In fhort, we found our fituation
at Uleaborg fo agreeable, that we were at no lofs to difeover
teafons for adapting our plan to our liking, or for juflifying our
condud in our own eyes.
I found at Uleaborg that I might carjgi! on a courfe of fludy injtrodu^
ory to the natural hifloiy of Lapland. An excellent opportunity
for this purfuit was aflbrdedby Mr. Julin, apothecaqy
at Uleaborg, who, befides a good collection of objedla: in <very.
clafl
THROUGH FINLAND. a69
clafs of the natural hiftory of Lapland and Finland, was poflefled
of coafiderable knowledge on this fubjcil, and at the fame time
took great pleafurc in communicating information to thofc who
were defirous of becoming acquainted with this branch of fcicncc.
He was well provided with books, had an clcArical apparatus, and
amufed himfelf by making experiments in different departments
of natural philofbphy.
The Baron Silfverkielm was a very amiable man, who had
palled a great part of his life near the perlbn of King Guftavus,
had travelled, and Icen much of the world. He was an excellent
mechanic, amufed himfelf with chemiftry, poflelTed an admirable
Englilli eledrical machine, made experiments, and was fond of
reading and the ftudy of belles-lettres. He was a man of no ceremony,
and (which will not be believed by every one) a moft
famous magnetifer, and one of the greateft proficients amongthe
difciples of Mefmcr, I have feen the Baron give proofs of his
fkill in animal magnetifm, which, I confefs, fhook my incredulity
a little, both in refped to the effipacy of his principles, and the
exigence of the magnetic fluid, or whatever elfe it may be called,
which is fuppofed to operate upon individuals. The effetis it
produces cannot eafily be attributed to ordinary caufes, nor fupported
by rcafbns derived from the known laws of nature. Although
he was unable to afle^ me with his magneticar powers,
yet he Wrought upon perfbns whofe probity and good faith I am
not at liberty in any^ degree to queftion. He repeated to me cx-
periments he had made in diflferent places, on different individuals,
and
270 TRAVELS
and in different circumftances ; and I find myieif Satisfied as to
the exiftcncc of fome natural caufe or principle which has hi^ierto
remained unknown : it is wrapt up in obfeurity, and is as yet
inexplicable to the underftanding. I am veiy far from attempting,
after the Barons example, to account for it ; though I think
that a folution of this problem may be referved for a period of
higher improvement in the knowledge of nature, the ftudy of
which has been lb luccefsfully purfued, and fo rapidly advanced,
in the courle of the prefent century. I faw my fellow traveller,
as incredulous as myfelf, fall into a profound lleep by the mere
motion of the magnetilcrs fingers ; I heard him Ipeak in his
llcep, and reply to whatever queftions I propofed to him ; 1 faw
hinri again awake by the fimplc motion of the magnetifers fingers,
while I was unable to roufe him from his fomnolcncy, though I
brought fire clofe to his hand, an experiment to which he was as >
infcnfible as a dead body. He awoke, after fieeping from five to
fix hours, remembering nothing of what he had faid, denying
obftinatcly that he had been alleep, and yielding with difficulty
at laft to the authority of his watch, and the teftimony of all
thofe who had witnelTcd the circumftance. I might mention a
number of fa6ls relative to this fulled, by which I fhould be able,
to prove, that in thefe trials there could be, neither connivance
nor impofture, nor previous arrangement ; but thb dodrine ftill
lies too much under fulpicion for me to dwell any longer upon it,
I fhall only add, that two Engliih travellers, better informed, anch
if polfible, greater infidels than myfelf re^^ing mefmerifin,.*
happening
THROUGH FINLAND. .
371
happening to pafs by Uleaborg at the fame time, flopped a day,
that ^hey might obferve fome of the magnetical performances.
From previous concert one of them was to aflume the appearance
of being aftefled ; but at the moment when the magnetifer Ihould
flem confident that his art had taken efleft, he who was to feign
himfelf afleep, at a fign given him by the other, was to awake
in furprize, and thus difappoint the credulity of the operator and
his audience. The experiments accordingly began : one of them
was unfufceptible of the magnetic impreffion, the other w'as actually
affeded, and his companion might make what figns he
plcafcd ; he was deaf, incapable of underflanding any thing, and
in fuch a languid and lethargic flate, that every a<fl of volition
was entirely fufpended. The two gentlemen will probably give
fome account of their travels, and poflibly confirm the truth of
my relation of thclc almofl incredible experiments.
It is to be regretted, that the mefmerians in general have their
minds lo heated by the extraordinary, 1 had almofl laid fupernatural,
afpe<fl of thofc phenomena, that they fufler themfllvcs to
be fo hurried away by the imagination, as to mount to the Ikies
in order to- find the phyfical caulc of thofe cffc5s among the
clouds, inflead of confulting and invefligating nature in the practice
of frequent experiments, and with that fobricty of mind
which (Might to.be the faithful guide of philofophy in all her enquiries
into the caules of things.. The ima^nation, fafeinated.
and enllaved by the charm of Ibmething preternatural, tries,,
while bewildered witlconfufed conceptions, to divine the meaning,
the
'
TRAVELS
the purpofe, and the end of objeds ; and while it rambles about
in the obfeure and boundlefs regions of conjedure, the true Ipirit
of enquiry lofes the thread of its obfervations and of its analyfis,
and bounding from one imperfed impreffion to another, is incapable
of {lopping to obferve, compare and judge : this was the
infirmity of the good Baron. He fancied to himfclf, that the
foul of the perfon allcep was tranfported to regions of which the
human mind, in conjundion with the body, can form no idea. He
went into particulars flill more ridiculous, and alTerted, for inftance,
that there all the fouls were dreffed in white, and that they enjoyed
in that feene of delights fuch agreeable fenfations as furpafs all conception.
He believed, that in that flate of lleep they forefaw future
events ; and that their fouls hdng exalted to a higher fphere of
perception, they could fee many things that are invifible to the
material organs of our imperfed vilion. Inllead of interrogating
the ileeper as to the nature of his feelings during his torpor ; indead
of trying to found the condition of his phyfical faculties,
or queflioning him as to intelligible objeds, his queries were always
concerning the white robes, the paradife, and thofe elyfian
fields where, according to his theory, the fouls are in the fruition
of every fpccies of pleafure, ever perfcdly at cafe, and clothed in
their de chamhre. He- was deftrous to receive intelligence
from' his anceflors, his great grandfather, or his late father ; and
they very kindly, in general, fent him their complimcats by the
mouths of thofe couriers in white jackets.
From the manner in. which I have dated my remarks, the
reader
THROUGH AND.
3^3
reader will be able to judge of the light in which I viewed this
lul^eAi Having Succeeded in our relearches concerning the electrical
fluid, and what is csWeA gahamfm, I think it not impdfliblc
but we may difeover fomc other fluid, or material fubftance,
which lhall have its particular laws, relations and affinities. I am
of opinion, that in animal magnetifm we meet with appearances
which cannot be traced to the imagination as their caufc, nor indeed
to any caufe known or dated by the enemies of this dodlrinc.
The French academicians thcmfelvcs, in {heir report on animal
magnetifm, fliew, perhaps, that they beftowed upon it neither the
time nor the candour and impartiality which a fubjedl fo difficult,
and fo much entangled in the grofleft prejudices, had a right to
obtain from them. Upon the whole, I conclude that we are ftill
entirely in the dark as to this unknown caufe, which, though we
' cannot as yet aflign to it any name or determinate qualification,
is not on that account lefs poflible.
The proficiency of the Baron in the magnetical fcience has not
met with very great fuccefs in making profblytcs at Uleaborg
:
for though this country is removed from the centre of intelleAual
improvement, yet the diflufion of knowledge has been fo univerfal,
in the courfe of the eighteenth century, that its falutary effetSs
have been felt even here, and men]|s minds are fufliciently enlightened
to be upon their guard againft the illufions of impdfture.
Befides, the Baron is alone; he is deflitute of that co-operation
which, by workingfOn the fentiments of others, in all times and
places, by coritiflually urging and prefling upon them a fubjed
VoL. 1. Nn which
974 TRAVELS^
which they at firft are unwilling to believe, renders, it &miliar to
their thoughts, and in the end commands the belief of the credulous.
The whole aggregate of fociety is made of wile men
and ibok. The wife men proudly rgedt a define which cannot
fumilh reafona for pret^ided faifis; a doflrine, the reality of which
can be refereed to no known caule, and leolible to what a pitch
of r^hiement impofture may be carried, they are prone to doubt
every things and an for ever afiaid of being duped. The halfwife
are in many dales more fceptical than even the wile;
** a littk knowledge is a dangerous thing they will never talk or
realbn on their belief: k.is a maxim wiUi them to believe as litde
as p^ffible, and thus they let a&de from levi^fy what ^ former
disproved from depth of nnderftanding. The. fr)ols, however,,
me a&ually the moft dangemus to all founders of new do&ines^
fueh as we have had under our confrderafron: they frmdly embrace
whatever addrefles itlelf more to the imaginationthan to-the powers
of realbn ; they have a greater rdilh for what is fopematural thais
for what is phUofophical : but fliould they tsdie it i^,their beads
to r^ribe the phenom^;(hat refult footn the experiments before
them, to the agency of the the natundifr, wheth^ he be.a
magnetifer or phil<^opber, will be judged worthy of damnation,
and pafr all the reft of his life for a m^cian. It is probable the
Baron BilfVerkielm was not ifr^kafed at the an^ivsd of a. number
offtrtngers, who furnifried.lnm with a ^^ext for reviving bis doctrines,
m weU as frnr repeating hb experiment^ <m ifrfterent -inba-
I^mits, whO| but tP (folige us, wcmld not haw fobmkted ip bb
difcipiinc.
THROUGH FINLAND. *75
In provincial towns there arc a number of circumllances in the
travdlers fevour, which afford him ample compenfation for the
privation he fuf^rs in refpedt of thofe amulements fo common in
the capital. Hofpitality exifts there in a much greater degree
;
the. Granger is treated as a perfon of the firft diftindion ; every
body is defirous of fhewing attention to him, partly from vanity,
no doubt, and partly to fill their own time by an agreeable variety.
The cheapne&of provifions doubles the travellers pecuniary re
fburces, inibmuch, that he is in a condition, to play the firft part
with the fame means that would be neceffary to his afting the
laft in a great metropolis : in fhort, every thing is at his difpofal,
every thing bends before him ; and his partiality for himfelfi as
well as his natural ftntiments, will influence him to prefer an eafy
and peaceful IHe, in the bofom of a ftnali circle, to the mnfy plea*
fures and diffipation of large ibcieties.
The tafte for fodal entertunment at UleSborg is not very general.
The merchants are a diftinft daft of themfelves, whom
you never meet in other company ; thefc are the raoft unfavourable
to friehdly intericourle, and alfe die kdl informed. The
perfbns who oompofe the uibal fbeiety of the place, are fuch as
are in the emplr^coent of government, ftom the governor down
to the judges of the tribunal. The governors of provinces, in
Sweden, are inftru^ed to invite and' entertain at their houfts all
ftrangers of any diftindion.' General Caipelan not only obeys his
inftru'ftioiis, kit add^ to the oflices of politeneft uid hofpitality
the meft flatoeving marks of perfonal friendfhip, infomuch, diat
/ N n 2 he
aji TRAVELS
he offered to accommodate us with lodgings at his own houfe.
We chofc, however, to remun at the houfe of a-mcrchant*named
Feldman, who did every thing in his powder , to oblige us, and
under whofe roof we found all that could contribute to render our
rehdence agreeable^
The manners of the Ulefiborg fociety have a great refemblance
to thofe of the capital. The people have the lante inclination to
pl^, and are fond of pompous entertainnoents, and of formality.
As the ftranger is alvvays the .principal perfon in company, they
are at ptuns to confult his talie, and do every thing they fancy will
be mof): agreeable to him. The yoong ladies are exceedingly
plealed to be introduced to fbangers, and Rudy to profit as much
as they can, in a becoming manner, by their vifits among tbemi.
When you have been invited to fup at a gentlemans houfe, it is
a cuftom (which I cannot fay Is extremely gracious), as fbon at
the entertainment is over, for all the ladies, young and old, who
wifh to teftify the plcafure they have enjoyed in your company,
to give you a flap with the hand upon your back when, you leaf!
expeft it ; and it is eflablifhed .as a rule, that the more fbrdbly
the hand is applied, the more emphatic is the ladys declaration
in your favour.
CHAPTER
THROUGH FINLAND. 277
CHAPTER XX.
Stay at Uleaborg continuedClieaptiefs of LivingPrejudices about
fome Articles of EatingBright NightsSport of Shooting
Cha/e of the Tetrao UrogallusMufical Party, and Concerts performed
by the Author andfome fellmv TravellersImpreJJion made
by the Power of Mufic upon the Settfibility ofthofe that heard it
Turn, rf the Finlandersfor Mufc and PoetryThe Runa, an Ancient
Piece of Mtfic in that CountryThe Harpu, a mtfcal In-
JlrumentState of Mifc in Finland.
^^UR reildence at Uleaborg. will ever be picafing to our recol-
Icdion. Removed from, the world, far from the liftlefTneis
of dithpation, out of the reach of ceremonious vifits, our time was
devoted to ftudy, to the chafe, or to the pradice of muhe. Our
hoRels was labouring from morning to night to fupply us with a
plentiful table, and to make our htuation comfortable in every
other refped:. She killed calves, pigs and oxen, exprefsiy on our
account. The moft precious fpoils of the fea and rivers were
procured for us, and purchafed without regard to oeconomy ; and
the reader will probably learn with fome aftonilhment, that for this
rich and Itixurious diet we paid for ourfclves (twoperfons) and a
/ ' fervant,
278 TRAVE^.a
iervant, lodging, breakfaft, dinner, tea, coflee, and flipper included,
not quite two guinea a week.
Our fervant cooked our vidluals in the Italian fafhion, and the
people of the houfc were not a little furprifed at our manner of
dining. Our good hollcfs was quite unealy to fee us dine every
day onfoupe & bouillie, and it was not in our power to perfuade her
that we did it from choice, and not bccaufe fhe had not a greater
variety of good things to fet before us. She endeavoured to vary
our meals with different fbups every day ; one day with a milk
fbup, another with a foup of fago and raifins, another with a fbup
of wine and milk, another with a fbup of barley or rice without
meat. A difficult and important difpute arole between her and
our fervant on the following fubjeft: Ihe would by no means
fuffer the brains and liver of a calf or pig to be drefied; every
creature in the houfe wasihocked at the very idea of it. They
arc always ufed to give the liver and brains of all animals what*
ever to the hogs, or throw them on the dunghill. We pafled unavoidably
for cannibals, or anthropophagi ; and fuch is the force of
prejudice, that having prefTed a perfbn to talle the brains or liver,
he would not fwallow it, but. fpit it put. after he had tailed
it. Our attempts to convince them of their error, to
fhew them the rationality of our cufiom, proved utterly fruitlefs.
They were likewife fcandalized at our eating finall birds, liich as
larks, fnipes, thrufhes, upon all of vvhich we fet a great value. In
thofe northern regions thefe birds enjoy a fiatepf unmolefled.peace
and fccurity : they not only were to us delicious ff^, but afforded
us
THROUGH nNLAND. 279
us the moft agreeable fport in ihooting them : it is a diverfion,
however, but of ftiort duration, lading only from the middle of
May to the middle of June.
This is a period when a mod iiirpriling change takes place in
this country. All nature feems to awake almoft at once. That
iblitude, that dlencc, that lethargy of creation, gives place to univerfal
and unceafing motion. The birds feem to arrive from all
quarters of the earth, and people the woods, the fields, the fens
and marfhes, which re-echo their melody all*around. The nights,
equally fine and clear as the day, enabled us to prolong the pleafiires
of the chafe. We ufed to dine, have our party at mufic,
fup, and at ten oclock in the evening fet out, and continue our
fports in the fields till about two oclock in the morning. The
light of the night was even more friendly to our purfuit than that
of the day. The fblar rays did not make the fame ftrong impreffion
on our eyes, and dill we had light enough for the purpofc of
Ihooting. The birds in the courfe of the night were much more
quiet, the wild ducks flocked from the fca on their way to the
lakes and rivers, and fometimes paffed diredly over our heads.
The rivers and lakes, as well as the marfhy ground in their vicinity,
fwarrned with ducks and fnipes of all deferiptions. Our
pleafure as fportfmen was not greater than what we enjoyed as
naturalids, dom the great variety of different fpecics to which the
inhabitants of Italy are total drangers.
The chafe of the bird* which Linnaeus calls tetrao urogallus,
was perfeiftly new to me. This bird is of the fwe of a turkey,
and
lilAVELS
trees. Towards the beginning of June
on a branch, < the fummit of a
and cuhtfing, that it is almoft
impl^blc ;W moment of his fmging
:
then he hiiSNiti ;i^d^^^|ve>]tnQtion .ini' hia head and eyes, which pfechant
or fohg continues
sifrvali <S^e within 'fight of him,
g8 to a fitdpe# this
chafe to^ ^ tiie as h plate ofitndezvous
for -the lphi^:}: at^ '-^ a IarjM 'jS|fr'& kindledi^^ ^<)he of
which hsa^^ ften ^^a diftan^'i^"^^^ jicrfon iValways left to
take pf ihe fire* lift itfliould tM firr, and' his.ctoploymenttis'
tp l^i^vent its corarhumcad^with the nei]|h^uiihg trees.
Upon tht^^ I h^ an oppdrtunityrOf obfi>pihg|^hdWPeaty
it is to fet a whole wood oh fire. - In thewoods theto is a i^xJcics
of diy mofs, which is a mod: dangerous^ tondhdor ; ahd if the
people are not extremely^ careful in itnway alt round the
firC; it will fpread a conflagration to the diflance of a mile in a
#e^^5ijii6irt time. who frequently mhke- fifes in
tiie woods for fome particular purpofe, mull; be reckoned among
the caufes of thofe great conflagrations inT Sweden and Finland,
which we mentioned in a former part of this work.
This

THROUGH FINLAND. sSi

This fpecics of fport had not the fame attraftlon for me as the
fliootlng of other birds ; we were obliged to pals the whole night
in the woods ; to liftcn to the Tinging of the bird with the invidious
car of a fpy, to Ikulk and Tupprefs our very breath, in order
the better to catch the found of his voice ; and when at laft wc
heard him, it was ncccffary wc Ihould employ all the craft and
artifice of a traitor, take advantage even of the fentiment of love
in this poor creature, and all this for the bafe purpofc of killing
him by furprife. In the chafe, as in every thing elfc, I love plain
dealing ; I love to make the birds fly before* me, to purfuc them,
and to declare war before I fire upon them. One Angle bird killed
upon the wing is worth ten alTafAnated on the branch of a tree.
What contributed ftill more to attach us to our refidence at
Uleaborg was, as I have before intimated, the accident of our
meeting here two gentlemen lovers of muAc, one of whom played
the violoncello, the other the alto. Thus, with the afliflance of
Mr. Skioldebrand, my travelling companion, who played the
violin, and myfelf who played the clarinet, wc were in condition
to perform a quartette tolerably well. A quartette at UleSborg
was a phenomenon no lefs out of the ordinary courfe of things,
than the appearance of the mofl aftonifhing meteor. There were .
not ten perfbns in the town who had ever heard muAc in four
parts ; nor probably from its foundation to the day of our arrival,
had a quartette been ever executed within its bounds. The reader
will caAly conceive the pleafure we derived from the Amplicity of
thofc good people, who looked up to us as the gods of muAc,
VoL. I. Oo as
iSi TRAVELS
as well as the fatisfaftion we enjoyed from a lympathy with their
feelings.
Uleaborg, during the time of our ftay, had a concert every
evening, open to every one that chole to attend. Our audience
Increafed in number to fuch a degree, that we were obliged to
hire an apartment larger than any room in our houie ; and our
quartette Was conftantly honoured by a numerous circle ofladies,
and almoft all the gentlemen of the town. It is impoflible for
me to convey an adequate idea of the impreffion our muhe made
upon our hearers. In order to make a trial of their fcnllbility, and
the efFcA of mufic on their paffions, we compofed on purpofe a
few pieces of an eafy harmony, the movement of whole modula>
tions was natural and intelligible even to perfons unaccuflomed to
the artificial refinements of mufic. Wc ftudied to alternate the
movements of grand efiedl, pailing from the highefi: forte to the
loweft/MWO, and vice verfa, by tranfitions of furprlfe. Wc prefcntly
law the tears trickle from the eyes of our feeling audience.
As we realized the fabulous times of Greece, our ipedlators prefented
a moft interefting pidlure, worthy of the pencil of the moft
celebrated painter. The eyes of all our hearers were turned upon
us ; fome feemed to follow with every feature of the face the
movements of the melody : we could read in the phyfiognomy of
the Finlanders the charader of the mufic wc had played ; every
look became ferious at forced and ftrong modulations, while foft
and melodious pafiTages feemed to difpcrle the cloud, and their
countenances refumed their tranquillity. It was curious to obferve
the
THROUGH FINLAND. 383
the different effeds produced by the muilc on perfons of different
conffitutions. One, for example, remained during the whole of
a fonata fixed and ffeadfaft, his mouth open, his eyes flaring,
without moving his eye-lids, and apparently ftruck with a ftupid
allonilhment : another, on the contrary, feemed to follow every
ftep of the melody with his whole body, and appeiircU to luffer a
fort of mufical convulfion: but the moment we began to play
their rma every eye was drowned in tears, and the emotion was
general.
The runa is a piece of the moll ancicAt melody of Finland,
which is Hill retained by this people, and fuited to their national
inllrumcnt called the luapn, probaUy the original of our harp, or
a copy of the ancient cithara of the Greeks.
The inhabitants of Finland have certainly a very fenfitivc turn
both for mufic and poetry. Indeed it Ihould feem that thefe two
arts go together, but the Finlanders have not made the fame progrefs
in mufic as in poetry, on account of the impcrfcdlion of their
national inllrument, and the attachment and veneration with
which they have prelcrvcd it.
The harpu confills of five ftrings ; and here wc may obferve the
firft ftep in the origin of the arts. They had no idea of pving it
more chords riian there arc fingers on the hand. The chords arc
a, b, c, d, e \ and c being fiat, the inllrument becomes tuned in
a minor, the favourite note of all the northern nations. The
chords are of metal, and not, like thofc of the violin and guitar,
fufceptible of being*modulated by the fingers of the left hand.
O02 The
284 TRAVELS
The whole compafs of their mufic confifts of five notes, and with
thefe five notes they play, they dance, aftd recite their poetry or
e
,
verfes. It is eafy to imagine the melaneholy and monotonous
cfFedl of their mufic, as well as the impoffibility of improving it,
until they (hall abandon this fivc-ftringed inftrument. But barbarous
and half civilized nations arc no lefs frugal of their mental
than of their corporeal enjoyments : they can difpenfe with the
refinements of mufic as cafily as they are reconciled to fimplicity
and uniformity in their diet and mode of life.
The introdudion of the violin has operated fome change in the
national mufic of that country. The extent of that inftrument
feems to have roufed the genius of the Finlanders, and the mufic
they play on the violin has acquired a charaAcr different from that
which they perform on the harpu. 1 will prefent my reader with
fome fpecimens of national mufic in the Appendix, where they
will have an opportunity of feeing the nature of that ancient melody
called runa, which is certainly dilcriminated by a charafter
not to be met with in any other fpecies of mufic. It confifts in
two periods, or bars of five crotchets each, which make ,jtwo
periods of eight notes: and I have divided that melody into two
parts, in order to accommodate myfelf to the peculiarity of their
verfc, each of which has eight lyllables, and two of them complete
the tune, as may be feen in the Appendix, No. I.
CHAPTER
THROUGH FINLAND. 2S5
CHAPTER XXI.
Influence of the northern Climate upon the Manners and Habits of the
PeopleHar^ips of living in the North, whe7i cotnpared to the
fouthern CountriesOccupatiotis of the Finlanders itt Winter
Their Methods of catching Fi/hThe Chafe of the BearMode
ofJhooting the SquirrelDangers that attend the Chafe of the
SealAn hiflance mentioned of two Finlanders that were caji
away upon the Ice while in this Purfuit.
\ TRAVELLER who vifits thofc countries during winter, is
^ apt to imagine that men, animals, and plants, arc all conligned
to a profound fleep : nor is if eafy for him to conceive
whence the natives derive the means of their fubfiftencc. Seas,
rivers, lakes, are all frozen up, and leem to Ihut out the liecelTary
refource of hihing ; the birds dy from thefe inhoipitable regions,
and hence alFord no fuftenance ; the earth on all fides covered
with froft and fnow, is here converted into an inexorable prifon,
confining all her fruits ;this univerfal nakednefs naturally begets
inthefiranger an expedation of feeing everywhere poverty, want,
and wretchednefs : but one who has refided among thefe people
will find, that they are neither lefs awake, nor lefs active, nor worfe
fed than the inhabitents of the South. The different fcafbns here.
as
s86 TRAVELS
as every where elfe, give occafion to different occupations analogous
to the climate, and the nature of the country. It is nccefTary
to have even more adivity and induftry in the noVthem
diftridb than in the foutherly ones, inafmuch as the means of
maintenance are more limited, while the wants of the natives are
more preffing. How many things are men in want of in the
North, that are fcarcely known in the South ? In the North furgloves,
caps, fur-boots, woollen cloths lined with furs, and fnow
fhoes; thefe are not much known to the inhabitants of the
fbuth of Europe, but,arc here articles of the firft neceffity. If to
the variety of things which arc required to cover the body, wc
add a greater appetite for food, and dclire for Ipirituous liquors
;
if wc confidcr the increafed dlf&cultics that the women have to
undergo in rearing their children, we fhall be fenlible how arduous
a talk, for inftance, a peafant in the North has to perform
in difeharging the common duties of life. Compared to him,
the very beggars of other countries live in cafe and even luxury
;
nor can he be put upon a par, in point of comfort, with the
famous lazaroni of Naples, who, though ragged or rather naked,
cafdy obtain a living if they will but take a walk on the key, or
faunter along the harbour, with no farther trouble than that of
turning firR their faces and then their backs to the fun. ,
The inhabitants of the North, haraded by a much greater
number of wants, mull necedTarily acquire a larger lhare of adivlty
in order to fupply them ; and from this circumllance arife a
thoufand little divcrlities of charadcr, whicb Icrve to dillinguilh
them.
THROUGH FINLAND. 487
them, even in their moral habits, from the nations of the South.
The peafants during the winter ajc occupied, not only in the laborious
performance of fuch bufmeffes as are moft advantagcoufly
accomplilhed when the earth is covered with ice and fnow, but alfo
in preparing for their necelTary avocations during the fummer.
They employ themfelves in making nets, cutting wood, conftrufting
cart wheels, and in tying up faggots for the fire. That of tranfporting
things from one place to another, is one of the principal
occupations of the Finlandilh peafantry in winter. They proceed
to the foreft and cut down timber for building, and making their
fledges, as wxll as for fuel and other purpofes : they drag over
fields of icc and fnow fuch enormous trunks of trees, as they
could fcarccly be able to move in fummer.
Hunting and fifliing are alfo avocations that are attended to in
winter. Their mode of fifliing is as follows : a couple of openings
are made in the ice, and by means of ropes and long poles,
they then contrive to pafs their nets from one opening to the
other : the drawing out of the nets is attended with infinite labour.
They have another method of filhing on the ice, which
feemed to me extremely curious, at leafl: the novelty of it excited
my furprilc. It is in catching fifli by a ftroke of a mallet or club.
In autumn, when the frofl begins to fet in, the fiflierman courfes
along the rivers ; and when he obferves a fifli under the ice in
fliallow water, he flrikcs a violent blow with his wooden mallet
perpendicularly over the fifli, fb as to break the ice. The fifli,
ftupified by the blow communicated to it by the water, in a few
feconds
TRAVELS
to the furface, where the ma^t^izes it
for the purpofe.
this' work, defcfUxN|i^^^
the ' i ha^alfo mentioned'
'
^e-:. pra^tije" of
^aiicKing fi(hiw|& the water "^Ibzen, by means of ;ho<^.; j
o^fe,>.mode orattaskihg,.thc b^ri
*'^^*Steat,i prcfehc^':bf dnd
acknowle^d that the Finlander ^iS
^e few- individuals have begun to
there aarrce (flt-ifllll mmaannxyr afimnrotnningrr t^hWea^
inland part pf ihi^.l^lntry, who will
not to.i^e uncertain ihbt of]^^i!^^ct, which/is'
fo:|^t^ ^|pfevcnted;^^p ; nor b^j>^pp^:|f an inferu^^
^ent.^h^fhey thml ^j^'-co^ even whcn'S^^ly ordinary
qu^^;^hefavoi^wr^pott^hcFinlandermhl^^thc.bear,
is ^1r<^*|fince fi^d at the pole. At iboj^^idiftanpe
of a f^t feojth .the poihl} of tl<e lance i fixed which
prolife the, from penetrating tob^ intoj^ body, of
the hear, or paffl^g jiirough both fidcs. i^hen^Finlander
^
j^^^^
^^he^^he bear has
out-; but continuing to be molefted by the hunter, and perhaps
by the barking of his dog, he at length gets up and rulhes in fury
fronj
hy/ /

THROUGH FINI.AND. 289

from his cavern. The moment he fees the peaiant, he rears himfelf
upon his two hind legs ready to tear him to pieces. The Finlander
mftantly puts himfclf in tfic attitude which is reprcfcntccl
in the annexed plate ; that is to fay, he brings back the iron lance
clofe to his bread, concealing from the bear the length of the
pole, in order that he may not have time to be upon his guard,
and confequently to parry with his paws the mortal blow which
the hunter means to aim at his vitals. The Finlander then advances
boldly towards the bear, nor docs he drike the blow till
they are fo near each other, that the animal* ftretches out his paws
to tear his antagonid limb from limb. At that indent the peaiant
pierces his heart with the lance, which, but for the crofs-bar,
would come out at his (boulder ; nor could he otherwife prevent
the bear from falling upon him,, an accident which might be
highly dangerous. By means of the crofs-bar the animal is kept
upright, and ultimately thrown upon his back ; but what may
feem to fome very extraordinary, is, the bear, feeling himfclf
w'ounded, indead of attempting with his paws to pull out the
lance, holds it fad, and prclTcs it more deeply into the wound.
When the bear, after rolling upon the Ihow, ceafes from the lad
druggies of death, the Finlander lays hold of him, and calls for
the adidance of his friends, who drag the carcafe to his hut ; and
this triumph terminates in a fort of fedival, where, ttft poet aflids,
and fings the exploits of the hunter.
The Finlanders are employed in dimmer in cutting down their
hay and corn ; the fed they threfh out in winter ; they build their
VoL. I. P p .
boats.
290 TRAVELS
boats, go a-fifliing, frequently a-fowling, and in the fpring time
hunt the fquirrcl, which they kill with a wooden arrow Ihot from
a crofs-bow, as is reprefented in the plate.
This figure of the bow is accurately copied from the ori^nal,
wiich my friend Mr. Julin puchafed, and brought with him
when he returned from his excurfion into the interior of the government
of Uleaborg : it has a ftrong refemblance to thofc with
which the Dalicarlian mountaineers were armed before the time
of Guftavus Vafa. It is extremely heavy, and requires great
flrength to bend it, even with the aililtance of a thong which the
Finlander carries about with him tied to his leather girdle. The
ancient uiages, ftill preferved in the country, arc an incontcftablc
proof of the fimplicity of the natives, and of the little knowledge
they have acquired of our modem inventions. Thelc ufages are,
however, worthy obje^ of the travellers attention, and are now
the more interefting, becaufe they are falling every day into oblivion,
giving place to others of recent date.
In Ihooting the fquirrcl they employ, as has been intimated, a
fort of blunt, pointlcfs arrow, that they may kill the animal without
Injuring the Ikin; and what is deferving of being noticed,
they do not take aim as we commonly do, by bringing the handle
of the crofs bow ncaj the eye, but fet it upon the belly ; and yet
by this metl.cdj which appears fo awkward to us, they feldora or
never mifs hitting the objeft. The arrow is too valuable to be
loft ; for the moment it falls, it is picked up for another occafion.
But the fpecies of hunting which fets the courage and enterprife
of
THROUGH FINLAND. 291
of the Finlander in the very ftron^eft light, is that of the fcal, or
phoca vitaltna of Linnaeus. The feafon of this chafe begins when
the fca breaks up, and the ice floats in flioals upon the furfacc.
Four or five peafants will place themfclvcs in an open boat, with
one trifling maft, fet off to fea, and be more than a month abfent
from their families. Thus they expole thcmfelves to all the dangers
of the high fcas, have a fmall fire which they kindle on a fort
of brick hearth, live upon the flefli of the feal, which is extremely
good, and bring home the fat and the fkins. The perils which
thofe voyagers have to ftruggle with arc incredible : they are every
inftant between maifes of ice which threaten to crulh their bark
to atoms : they get upon the floating Ihoals, and, creeping along
them, ftcal cautioufly upern the feal, and kill him as he repofes on
the ice. Seven years ago, two Finlanders only fet out in a boat
for this chafe. Having got fight of ibme icals on a little floating'
ifland, they quitted their boat, and got upon the icc, moving on
their hands and knees to get near them without being perceived.
They had previoufly fattened their boat to the little ifland of icc
they difembarked upon ; but while they were bufily engaged
in their purfuit, a gutt of wind tore away their boat, when, meeting,
with other flioals, it was broken in pieces, and in a few
minutes entirely difappeared. The hunters were tl^re of their
danger when it was too late : they were now left without help,
without rclburcc, without a ray of hope, on their little floating
ifland. They remairilfd two weeks on this frail fragment ; the
heat which diminilhcd its bulk, and alfo its prominent fur-
P p 2 face,
392 TRAVELS
face, rendered their lituatlon more alarming every moment. In
the anguilh of hunger, they gnawed the flelh of their arms : they
law the gulf of death opening gradually under their feet ; they
embraced each other, determined to plunge together into the lea,
and put an end to their mifery, from which they had no prplped
of efcaping : they had hailed the day for the laft timci when they
difeovered a lail. How great mull; have been their joy ! One
Rript olF his Ihirt, and lulpended it on the muzzle of their gun
:
the velTel was a whale-filher which obferved them ; and putting
out her boat, faved thele two men from impending death.
GHAPTER
THROUGH FINLAND. m
CHAPTER XVI.
Some of the Manners and Ciiftoms of the Inhabitants of Fmlatid defcribed
Their Modes of CourtfhipCeremonies attending Marriage
The ufe of l^apour-Baths among the People at large, and efpecially
among the PeafantrySome Particulars of this Manner of
bathingThe extraordimry Tratfition from Heat to Cold which
the Finlanders can endure.
"^TOTHING could be more curious than to dcfcribe the odd
^ and fantaRic cuftoms of the northern nations, and the grofs
indelicacies pradiied among them on certain occaRons : but I
(hall confine my remarks to their marriages and their baths. The
peafants of the province of Savolaxa, in Finland, have a very fingular
mode of'making love. When a young man feels an attachment
for a young woman, he commilfions fome aged <kmc to
acquaint the olge^ of his love with his paifion, and at the fiime
time he fends her Ibme prefents. The old woman chules as the
proper moment for executing her commifiion, th^when the girl
is preparing to go to reft. While Ihe is putting off her cloaths,
the woman takes an opportunity of getting into her prelencc, and
beltowing many praiRs upon the lover. ' When the girl has heard
all Ihe has to fay, the dame flips Ibme prefent, perhaps a handkerchief,
* 9 + TRAVELS
chief, or ribband, or fome piece of money, into her bofom. If
the, girl docs not wifli to have any corrcfpondcnce with her admirer,
flic gives back the prefents to the mediatrix, who immediately
conveys the unpleaflng intelligence to her employer. It is
to be obferved, however, that this firft refufal of the prefents is
not deemed a decillve proof of dillike. The lover does not yet
dcfpair of ibftening the heart of his miflrefs : by a repetition of
his attempts he may ftill hope to accomplifli his objed. The
pofltive mark of an invincible diiapprobation and rgedlion, and
after which there is no longer any further ufe in negociation, or
room for hopc> is, when the young woman, inftead of giving the
box containing the prefent back to the amballadrcfs with her
hands, (he unloofes the cindure that keeps her drefs dole to her
waift, and lets it fall between her breaft and her fhift down to the
ground. But if, on the contrary, Ike retains the prefent, then the
young people conflder themlelves as engaged to e^h other, and
nothing but the marriage ceremony is wanting in order to conftitute
them hufband and wife.
On the wed<hng-dayy fbme peafant among their neighbours,
with the title of Ipeaker, or orator, does the honours of the feaft.
This orator is generally a pcrlbn who is not only endowed with a
natural talent^* Ipcaking, but is alfo an improvifatore ; for be is
expedted to make cxtcmjxire vcrfesfuitable to the occafion, or any
incidental circumftances : but the moft curious and interefting
ceremony of aH, is that which takes place bn the day after the
marriage. All the guefts being aflcmblcd, as on the day of the
ceremony,
THROUGH FINLAND. 395
ceremony, the new married man is obliged to declare, whether
or no he found his bride a virgin^ If he anfwers in the affirmative,
the orator, either in verfe or profe, celebrates the happinefs
of the young couple on the preceding night, and drinks to their
health out of a clean, well fcoured, and bright cup. If in the
negative, there is on the table a dirty and mean veiTel, out of
which he is obliged to drink. In the bottom of this utenfd is a
hole out of which the liquor runs, and is fpilt on the ground at
one end, whilfl: it is emptied by the orator at the other. He
after this makes Ibme remarks, and gives Ibme counlels of no very
plcafing nature, to the bride. When the orator has finifhed his
harangue, in cither of thefc cafes, he takes up a pair of the bridegrooms
breeches, which are at hand for the purpole, and thumps
the bride with them luftily (but not on her head or the upper
part of her body), faying, at the. feme time, Be fruitful, wo-
man, and dont fail of producing heirs to your hufband
!
It is a general obfervation, and which admits of no exception,
that in proportion as tribes or focieties of men are rude and fimplc
in their manners, they are indelicate on the lubjeA of that paifion
which unites the fcx:es. Thztpudor circa res venereas, which Grotius
held to be a univerfel fentiment, and charafteriftic of the human
fpecies, in Otaheite has no exillencc. There was a cuflom
which prevailed not a century ago in fomc parts of Scotland, and
which, according to tradition, was once general, almoft as grofs
as that of the Finlanders. On the day after the wedding, when
the marriage fcaft was continued, as in Finland, it was cuftomary
for
2^6 TRAVELS
for the bridegroom, creeping on all fours, to receive on his back
a large pannier full of ftoncs, vtj^ich he was obliged to carry until
the bride, in token that Ihe was no longer a maiden, canie and
relieved him of the heavy load, by throwing the pannier on the
ground.
In one parilh in Finland (one of thefe parilhes, it is to be obferv'ed,
is equal in extent to a whole province in moft other countries)
it is the cuftom for young women to wear, fulpended at
their girdles, the cafe or iheath of a knife, as a fign that they are
unmarried, and would have no ot^e^ion to a hufband. When
a yoling man becomes enamoured with any of thole damfcls, his
manner of courting her is, to purchafe, or caufe to be made, a
kmfe in the exaS: form of the Iheath, and to take an opportunity of
flipping it into the iheath flily without the girls perceiving it. If
the girl, on finding the knife in the Iheath, keep it, it is a favi'^ui-
able l^mptom : if not, it is a refulal.
In the parilh of Kemi, before the day appointed or propoled
for the marriage ceremony, the young people fleep together for a
whole week, but without quite undrefling ; and this is called, the
week ofthe breeches. It will, no doubt, be immediately recolleAcd
by my readers, that this is an exadl counterpart to the htmdUng of
the Anglo<^l^cricans. If, in confequence of the familiarities
that pals during the week of the breeches, their love be
llrengthened, they marry ; but if, on the other hand, their mutual
alFedions be leflened, the marriage does not take place.
Another particular that appeared very Angular among the cuftoms

//ff/.J//
THROUGH FINLAND. . 397
l^mnsr of -Al-';;'
uooilidlifao Ftidsmih. pcafants h^vo s fmall houte built
ft it confifts of.only, ones' finall chsinbei^i 'in
ijj^' pareof which are placed:# number of ftoncs, \v^Utc
Iwatcd by fire till they bccAmc red. ; On thefe ftones, thus h*^-.
ed, water is thrown* until tb'e company within be involved, in a
thick cloud of vapour. In this innermoft part, the chamber is
formed into two fiories for the accommodation of a greater number
of perfons within that fmall compais ; and it being the nature
of heat and vapour to ftfoend, the focond ftory is, , of courle, the
hottefo. Men and women ufe the bath promifououfly, without
any concealment of drefs, or being in the .kail influenced
by any emotions of attachment. If, however, a ftrtmger op^ the
door, and come on the bathers by lurprife, the women are not a
.%cle ftartled at his appearance ; fo%kbefides his perfon, h<|;ihhfo*
duces along with him, by c^ning'the de<^, ft of
light, vsdiich difoovers at emse to-i^
as forms. Without fuchftn ^<;^ebt/they remam, ^ ^J^^
darknefs, yet in great obfifon^it aa there i4Ao othet^ihide^^
fidcs a fmall hole, nor any li^thnt what 'enter* in
chink in the roofof the hemfo, m' thh cremces^^ b^
..of woodof whiebiit is conllruifled. I often amnled myfehTwitb
the bathii .in this
''goi'ft-'attd^in the-Bikmbly ; I
could not breathe, and in the fpace. of a minute at moft, I verily
believe, muft have been fufFocated. I fomeftmes ftepped in for
VoL. I. Q q a moment.
398 TRAVELS
a moment, juil to leave my thermometer in fome proper places
and immediately went out ag^n, where I would remain for a
quarter of an hoin, or ten minutes, and then enter again, and
fetch the fadlrumcnt to afeertain the degree of heat. My aftonilhment
was fo great that 1 could fcatcely believe my fenfes*
when I found that thofe people remain together, and amufe them^
felves for the fpacc of half an hour, and fometimes a whole hour,
in the feme chamber, heated to the 70th or 75th degree of CcI--
fius. . The theemometer, in cmitad with thofe vapours, became
fometimes fo hot, that I could fearcely hold it in my hands.
The Finlanders, all the while drey are in this hot bath, com
tinue to rub themfelves, and laih every part of their bodies witk
fwitches formed of twigs of the birch-tree. In ten minutes they
become as red as raw fleih, and have altogether a very firightful'
appearance. In the winter feafon they frequently go out
bath, naked as they are, to roll themfelves in the fnow, when
the cold is at 20 and even So degrees below zero.* They willfometimes
come out, foill naked, and converfe together, or with
any one near them, in the open air. If travellers happen to pafs
by while the pealants of any hamlet, or little village, are in the
bath, wd their affiflaace is needed, they will leave the bath, and
alBft in yoking or unyoking, and fetching provender for the
horfes, or in- any ^ing elfe, without any fort of Covering whatever,
while the pafTenger fitsfhivering with cold, though wrapped
up in a good found wolfs ikin. There is nothing more wonder-
* I rpeak always of the thermometer of a hundred degrees, by Ccllius.
ful
THROUGH FINLAND. >99
I
ful than extremities which man is capable of enduring through
the power of habit.
*#
The Finnilh pealants pafs thus inftantaneouily from an atmoiphere
of 70 degrees of heat, to one of 30 degrees of cold, a tranfition
of a hundred degrees, which is the fame thing as going out
of boiling into freezing water 1 and what is more aftonilhing, with*
out the leaft inconvenience ; while other people are very feniibly
alTedted by a variation of but five degrees, and in danger of being
afHlAed with rbeumatifm by tiie moft trifling wind that blows.
Thofc peafants atiiure you, that without the hot vapour baths they
could not lliftain as they do, during the whole day, their various
labours. By the bath, they tell you, their ftrength is recruited as
much as by reft and deep. The heat of the vapour mollifies to
iuch a degree their fkin, that the men eafily fhavc themfclves with
vvrctched razors, and without foap. Had Shakfpeare known of a
people who could thus hre pieafure in fuch quick tranfitionfmm
cxceflive heat to the fevered c(dd, his knowledge might have been
rncreafed, but bis creative fatu^ could not have been aflifted
Oh 1 who can hold a fire inliis hand.
By tbinldng of the frofty Caucafus i
Or wallow naked in December fnow,
By thinking op fiuitafiic fumm^rs he^
Qq 2 CHAPTER
3CQ TRAVELS
CHAPTER XXin.
The national Poetry of FinlandRunic VerfesTurn of the Fin^
landers for Poetry-Manner in which they recite their poetical
ComfojitionsSpecimens f Finnifh PoetryA funeral Elegy on
the Death ofa BrotherAn odd Tale, called the PaJdamo-Pqfty
The Females particularly addiSl'eJ to the Amufement of Poetry
The Jauho Runot, or Mill SongsA beautiful Ode, or Elegy, by
a country Girl, on the Abfence of Her LoverLullaby ef the Finnijh
NurfesSongs intended for magical Piirpofer, and, among
other Virtues, fuppofed alfo to pojfefs that of healif^ Wounds, and
curing DifeafesThis Superjlition prompts the Clergy to difcotire^e
the Runic Poetry in which it is cladProbability arifng from
that Circumftance, and others, of the Runic Poetry falling quite
into Difufe,
ri^HE fun of literature caft a feeble ray upon the mountains
-* of Finland, long after it had enlighteiied the reft of Europe :
this ray has been, however, preferved in the iingle univerfity of
Abo.
It has been frequently oblcrvcd, that letters can only be cultivated
in times of peace, and that the tumult ^nd confuiion of war
are inimical to the fcienccs, which demand the retirement of academic
THROUGH FINLAND. 301
demic bowers, far diftant from the'din of arms. Finland had been
conftantly expofed to the incurfions of its neighbours. The Finns
were themfelvcs invaders in the beginning of the chriftian era, and
were afterwards in their turn invaded by their neighbours, the
Ruffians, the Swedes, and the Danes, who carried on a predatory
war againft them, laying all walk in their incurfions. At length
the Finns were at once converted and fubjugated by the fword of
Eric the ninth, king of Sweden, who having, in the year 1150,
made them the fervants of the chriftian religion, annexed their
country to Sweden. From that time their fituation b'ecamc improved)
and poetry, which even before that epoch had cheered
the dull abode of the Ihivering natives," extended its influence,
and taking the lead of letters, was purfued by them with a diligence
and fuccefs, which, every thing confidcred, is very rcraark-
able.
The fpcciesof verfc employed by them is called r;V, from the
ancient Gothic word runoot. It is compofed of lines of eight
trochees, or long and ftiort lyllables, which do not rhyme with
correlpondent endings, but arc allittcrative, or have like beginnings',
that is to fay, have two at leaft or more words which
agree in a letter or fyllabic. To explain this kind of verfc, we
will give the reader a fpccimcn from the only poeni cxifting ia
the Englifh language compofed in this- allitteAtlve ftylc, which
is The Vifion of Pierce Plowman, a curious monument of
ancient poetry, wrjtten in the fourteenth century, and printed for
the fecond time in 1550. The poem begins thus,
In
302 TRAVEU5
In a fummer feafon when let was the fiuit
I fchope me to ihrubs, as I a Hieep wetey
In an habit as an hermit imholy of worksy
** Went mde in this world wonders to heary &c<
Thus in the following poem in the Finnilh tongue;
Nuco nuco juco Unto
Wefli weffi wefter eki.
r
In the En^ilh lines the allitteration of the two firll are of the
letter S, ofthe third H, of the fourth W; and in the Finnilh the
letter N in the firft, and W in the fecond. . Verfes compofed in
rhyme were of later intrpduiStion ; and when they hdl in naturally
with the runic, are not ijcjc^ed ; but liUl they are not e^ential to
the latter, and ate therefore not fought after. The repetition' of
the initial letters is very plealiint to ears which are accullomed to
it, and it is xnoimver perfe^ly agreeable to the genius of the Fin>
niOi language^ and of great al&llancc to the memory.
Runic poetry has been from the moll ancient times cultivated
by the peafants of Finland, particularly by. thofe who inhabit
Ofla'O'Bothnia, and the territory of C^anaborg. On the lea*coalhi
in the neighbourhood of Sweden, there are few Finlanders who
underftand or recite them, and fewer who compofe them. The
pealants acquainted with this poetry prefer the oldeft IpectmenS:;
and many of this clafs, unaffifted by letters, through the ^ple
efforts of gcuius alone, aided by praiftice, arc able to conapole
runic
THROUGH nNLAND. 303
runic vcrfes up(i a fubjcd fuitcd to their genius with a wonderful
facility, after the manner of tl^e Italian mprovifanti. To this
I have heard fome men of learning, who arc Ikilled in thcFinnifli
language, bear teftimony.
There is fcarcely any event, public or private, which does not
find a poet amongft the Finnifli peafants to celebrate it. They
condole the death of friends, rejoice with them on marriages, rchcarfe
talcs, fatires, &c. at their public meetings, in thefe runic
verfes, often extempore, and often Rudiecl fqr the occafion, rarely
committed to writing, and more rarely to the prefft As to poems
reciting the deeds of gothic heroes, and illuftrating the monuments
remaining of the times when they lived, none arc to be
found after the moft diligent refearches; nor arc there any runic
veries known of an earlier date than the reformation of Martin
Luther.
The manner in which they recite their verfes in public is fingular,
and laid to be derived' from ancient pradice. A circle is
. formed of the auditors, in the midft of which ftand the improvifator,
and his repetitory coadjutor. Every line which the imprbvilator
fings or delivers, is repeated in the lame tune by the coadjutor,
who, taking up the laft word, or the laft but one, finilhes
the line with him, and then repeats it alone. This gives the improvifatoT
time to prepare the fucceeding line, which he fings,
fecohded in like manner by his coadjutor ; and thus they both
proceiid, the coac^ntOr always taking lip the laft words of the imprdvilators
line, and then repeating it by himfelf until the poem
IS
3=4 TRAVELS
is ended. During intervals, they recruit their fpirits with beer or
brandy, and fometimes continiy: the improviiation to a late hour.
Dancing not being very common amongft the Finnifh pealantry,
their amuferaent at fairs, or at their private meetings, conlifts in
thefe kind of longs, or recitations, fometimes accompanied by the
harp, if that inftrument be at. hand, when the harper fupplics the
place of the repetitor.
I lhall now lay before my readers Ibmc Ipecimcns of thele
poems, in which the^e will be obferved much redundancy of cxpreffion,
the fenfe being continued through two or more verfes,
the phrafe only varied, as in the eallrem compofitions. The Fin*
nidi tongue is peculiarly adapted to this kind of phraleology, as it
is highly copious, and abounding with lynonymous words.
The lirft fpecimen I ihall produce is an extraA from a poem,
or funeral elegy, compoled hy Paulo RemeSt a Finnilh pealant,
upon the occalion of bis brothers deceafe. This poem was printed
at Abo in 1765..
The word w;cnt forth from Heaven ; from Him in whofc
hands arc all things.
Come hither, I will make thee my friend; approach,, for
thou lhalt henceforth be my companion. Come down , from
the high hill; leave the leat- of forrow behind thee; enough
*' haR thou furred ; the tears thou haR fted are ful^icnt ; thou
" haR felt pain and difeafe ; the hour of thy deliveewe is come
;
thou are fet free from evil d^s; peace, hal^eneth vaee.jt.!tbee
;
relief from grief to come. . ;
Thus
THROUGH FINLAND. 305
Thus went he out to his Maker ; he entered into glory ; he
hafteped to extreme blils ; he departed to enjoy liberty ; he
" quitted a life of forrow.; he left the habitations of the earth.*
Proverbs are the refult of experience and wifdom ; and no nations,
however barbarous, are found without them in their language.
The Finnilh tongue has an abundance, many of them
conveying ftrong fenle and acute remark. They arc for the moft
part in runic or allitterative verfe ; and, like the Hebrew proverbs,
are divided into two hemiilichs, the latter jiluflrating the foregoing.
The following are Finniih proverbs, literally tranflated
:
** The good man fpareth from his peck ; but the wicked will
not give from a bufhcl."
The wife man knoweth what he lhall do ; but fools try
every thing."
There is no deliverance through tears ; neither arc evils rc-
medied by ibrrow."
He who hath tried, goeth immediately to the work ; but he
who hath no experience ftandeth to confider.
The wife man gathereth wifdom every where ; he profiteth
by the diicourie of fools.
** A mans own land is his chiefeft delight ; the wood is moft
pleafant that is his.
The ftrangcr is our brother ; he who comes from afar off is
our kinftnan.
* When the morn breaketh forth, I know the day which foU
loweth ; a good man difeovereth himfelf by his looks,
VoL. I. . Rr " The
3o6 travels
The work is ended which is begun ; there is time loft to fay,
what fliall I do ?
^.c
The tool of the induftrious man is lharp ; but the plough-
lharc of the fool wanteth grinding.
The following comical tale is a ipecimen of Finnilh improvifation,
by a young poet of the name of Vanonen, living between
Wafa and Uleaborg. For this piece I am indebted, as I mentioned
before, to the governor of Wafa, who was perlbnally acquainted
with the poet, by whpm, at the governors delire, it was diftated
to one who wrote it out. The governor fet a great value on the
original, and preferved it as a moft precious relic. I therefore
think mylelf much obliged by the communication. The poet, he
told me, was poor, becaufe he preferred the pleafures of imagination
to the duties of a pealant and the labour of rural occupations.
This young man, who can neither read nor write, has a native
vein of humour, and is in his way very droll. Heisofeourfe
heartily welcome in the houlcs of the peafarits, whom he amufes
with his mirth and plealantiy.
The Paldamo confifts of about two hundred and forty-eight,
lines. The fubjeft is a ridiculous, retaliation, by a trick played
upon a cuftom-houfe officer, by a Fihnilli pealant. I have heard
people intimately acquainted with the pure import and genius of
the Finnilh language, in reading this
' poem, break forth with enthuliafm
in its praife, and burft into laughter almoft at eveiiy line.
The tranllation, though literal, and rendered word for ^o^, retains
but little of thofe beauties and that humour, which conlift
in the brevity, precilion and energy of the original language.
THROUGH FINLAND. 30
. THE PALDAI4O-PASTY:
A Finhi/k Tale, by the Peafant Vononen.
My talc is now fet out in proper phrafe. 1 ling the treat
which an inhabitant of Paldamo prepared for a commiflary of
the cuftoms ; neither more nor lefi than a cat with the Ikin
and fur, which was baked and prefented to him for his fupper.
It was on a Sunday evening that the pealants of the good
town of Paldamo were allemblcd together, and fell into dif-
courlc about the inhabitants of the city of Uleaborg, whom
they all pronounced to be a pack of knaves, and more cfpccially
the cuAom-houfe officers, for they were paid for eating, and
.fcrupled to pay for whajt they eat, for they plundered the fledges
and robbed the travellers of their provilions.
Upon this (lays a jolly old fellow of the party) I fliould like
to take a little journey, if I could light u{)on agreeable compa-
nions
I
Ihould wilh once more to fee pur great city. I have
fome tallow to lell, and butter to difpole of, notwithllanding
the leafon has proved fo unfavourable. The peafants all an-
fwered with one voice, We have all a delire to take a trip to.
Uleaborg ; we will accpiiipany you immediately into the low
grounds.
Thus then Ipoke another bcon companion, famous for his
' droll ftories : To be furc^ fays he, at Ghrillmas time there is
R r 2 no
3o8 travels
'^ hbvrbrk to be done, knd I would go Mbtlt you with ^ my
>' hcart; but I bethink me how I fctvcd one of tfaeie officers
lately, and I am rather fea^ul that I ffiall be known. You
" muR all underftand that I went lately to Uleaborg, and had an
excellent piece of roaft veal in my fledge with me, which the
officers took away, though I told them I could not fpare it, as
I Was at a ^diflihde from home^ and brought it with me to
eat in toVrh 'whilft I flaid there. All I could fay availed me
" nothing: thofe greedy fellows were refolved to have my roaft
veal, and lb they took it from me. Oh ! to -be fure they are
** fad dogs, and plunder ftie' pea&nts of their provifions at a Ihock-
** mg rate.
'
" When I returned home; continued he; 1 told my wife how
" I had been ierved, and 1 got heartily IcoldOd by her for it. What
" a cowardly ibt you are, cried flie; why did you not break the
" officers head ? Give hina yotir roaft veal truly ! Give him the
" devil to ftii^his maW whh'I^T^US did my wife exclaim; but
" What flic faid put a thought iitto my head! Ah ! Ah ! cried I,
" my gentlemen ! it fltall not be long before I am even with you t
" As I faid;thele IfTords I fnatcbed Up our great cat by her hind
legs, and I prefently difpatChed- her.^NOw, fays I, wife, put
" feme fire into the oVen, : and I Will get tca^ fome pafte, arid
" puft (h^l be baked in a pafty.~As riaid this; my wifi; flopped
" rni-truly Che Would have 0ui cat*rlkiUtO line her pclicewith
!
" Upon' which 1 laid to - her lUthCr aWgriljMWhat, you- lare for
gtvirig the togw^i of officer a titbit* Ire' If vreftrip off
the
THROUGH FINLAND. 309
the cat's ikin, thefe gratry will take our pufs for a fine Paldamo
hare> and gfov' tnore and more in love with our good things
;
** and thus the fledges of our ^oor townfinen will never elcapc
*' being plundered : no, no, fays I, they lhall have the cat, flein
" and all, and then they will foe that we can be a match for their
** thievery.
My wife was not very well pleafod to give up the cats Ikin,
'' but flie was fain to comply, and fo the cat was put into the
pally with the Ikin on> and the pally, was put into the oven.
When the pally was baked, it was fot by till morning, and
then clapped into a lack, and away 1 fot olF merrily for Ulcaborg.
Upon the road I lighted upon a pealant who was travel-
" ling the fame way. . &iys my new acquuntance;. Can we crofs
the river by the bridge ? I cannot tell you, anfwered I. But
when wc came to the river fide, we found orders had been given
to flop the paflage over the bridge: for, lays the carpenter, who
was hard at work upon , the barricade,. None of you peaiants of
Paldamo are to pals this way.-^j^ wc crofled the river over the
ice farther up> and whe|a we came to the cuflpm>houfe I pre>
fonted the officer with a fmall pally out of my fack. What
do you .mean, by tbisjj.faySi,>he; you do. not furcly intend to
makje the firll cornmiflary of the cuftoms lb trifling a prefent
as this is l Comf>.<:Qmei^ I know you Paldamq peafents are never
^..without a good large pally ofjack, or feme other e^ellent filh
;
give me the; largefl :^q^ihaYj6^ M will do credit to your
tbyvii. This, you rntd^ifoppofexHas jufl .what I wilhed to hear;
"fo
310 TRAVELS
lb out I lugged the large pafty that had the cat baked in it, and
" I gave it to the officer, who was lb well pleafed, that he invited
the other pealant and me to lAike a cup of coffee with him
;
and fo we did ; and he gave us a glafs of punch after it, and a
bumper of excellent brandy befides ; after which we took our
leave, and went our ways.
Thus ends the pcafants tale which he told to his neighbours
of Paldamo, and which I, Famttm, have put into verfe for the
delight of ail that lhall hear it : and 1 fuppofe 1 lhall get much
fuch a prefent for my*compolltion as the firft commilTary of the
cuftoms had for his civilityone ofpufsshind legs; for the
officer eat the other, as you mull next hear.
The commiHary Ritzi, for lb this officer was named who had
 received this noble prefent, was lat down to bis lupper, and the
Paldamo-pafly was placed before him. He lirll cut offi a llice
of the cruft, which he tafted, and found very rclilhing and
good; he next pulled out one of the cats hind legs. To be
** fure he fcratched his mouth with the claws ; but that he
thought might be the pikes teeth, for he.fuppolcd that the
pafty had a large jack in it, and the cats bind leg before him
was the jolc of the jack. At length he opened the pafty, but
what was his aftonilhment when he beheld a pafty with a baked
" cat in it, Ikin, fqr and all
!
He ftamped, he raved, he fworcand at laft he broke out
into thefe rededions-^Who could have thought, that a pealant
of Paldamo would have printed the firft commilTary of the
cuftoms
THROUGH FINLAND. 3,,
oiftoms with a cat baked in a pafty ! What a wretch is man!
Who knows not, if he live to grow in years, what he may
chance to eat before he dies, when I, a young man, was very
near devouring a cat with her Ikin and fur on.
Thus endeth this talc, which I, the before-mentioned Fa-
niinett, have compoled, and which all allow to end well, and
with great ingenuity.*
* I will fubjoin a verifion in Englifh rhyme of the fiune poem, in which the liter
ral meaning of the original has likewife been as faithfully retained as pofliblc. It
thus forms a droll fort of a ballad.
THE PALDAMO PAS^IT:
A Finnijh Tale^ by the Peafant Vandnen*
A ftory, I remember well,
I once did hear, which now FU tel!
;
For I, Vanbnen, (yon all know it^
A peafant, and, whats more, a poet),
Did veriify it in a ilyle.
That all who hear fay tis worth while
;
How that of cuftoms the Commh
Was trickd (none bcttCT trickd could be)
With favry pafty of a cat.
That moufe had often killd, and rat.
Twas at Paldamo that a fet
Of jovial peafants once were met ;
When entring into merry ch^t,
Of neighbring. towns, and this and that *,
'^They all aj^eed, and did declare,
Knav^s^of more cunning any where,
In ^ny town the country round.
Than Uleaborgs coud hot be found
;
And
313 TRAVELS .
The Flnnilh word kalaiucio, here tranflatcd pally, lignidcs a
pyc with lilh baked in It of Ibnac fort or other. . ^
Uleaborg is lituated in an extenfive plain on the river Uica,
And if of them tine worfe could be,
Commis of cuftoms muft be he.
The burghers, they were fain to cheat,
That they and families might eat
;
But all thofe officers had pay,
Yet peafants coming in their way.
They of provitions did bereave,
And fcarcdly faid them** By your leave.*'
Now, fays a peafant, could 1 iind,
Like you, companions to my mind
;
My Hedge 1 wou*d this inftant take,
And to that town a journey make
:
1 have fome tallow yet to fell,
And butter that will pay me well
:
The peafants all replied, Agreed,
To Uleaboi^ lets now proceed.**
Hold there, my friends (cried a fhrewd knave),
I muft not go, for doubts I have
;
I now bethink me of fome pranks
Which I playd there, will get no thanks
:
for I muH give you all to know,
It is not many months ago,
'fhat I occafion had to be
At Uleaborg, and took with me
As fine a piece of roafied veal,
As^you would wih for at a meal.
You know thofi^dogsa fly Commh
Found it, and took it, firs, from me
:
I beggd, intreated, and I prayd.
Said all I could, but ^ I fkid,
Availd me not a fingle jot,
Have it he woud, woud 1 or not.
I pleaded
THROUGH FINLAND. 313
which,empties itfelf near to it m die gulf ofBothnia. That river
"v
'
'
m
'
is alluded ^ the foregoing tale.
Cbriftmas is a fcafon pf Icifure with the peafants of Finland, aa
I pleaded I was far from home,
To Uleaborg on busnefs come,
And that 1 brought with me this meat,
That I in town might of it eat
;
Not paying merchants for my fleeping,
I woud not they thou*d pay my keeping.
Howeer my veal he took, dont doubt it,
And I was fain to go without it.
When I came home my wife dtid fcold (
Two days her tongue fhe woud not hold ^
She calld me fool and fiUy elf,
Said none was. dupd fo as rnyfelf
:
You are (at lafr fhe find) fo hafry,
Give him your veal ! give a cat-pafty I
Stop there, 4^ ^d fay no mcn^
You wont mend that| talk for an hour.
The, words which fhe that moment faid.
Had put a thought into my head,
A trick to play this faid Commis,
And ferve him wc^ than he fervd me.
So pufs i took, aiid made her fit.
To put in pafii^ or^fix on fpit
:
But woud you thinks my fimple wife
Seeing our cat deprivd of life,
Beggd that the ikin, I<i let her take.
Lining for ho^ i^ce ^
Whatl I excl^4 th
You are for giving a; tit4^ i
Pufs without ihin^ftou**^ I'oow bake^^'
The for a
And*(^Palchjh6^'|^^
Grow fond of thai^he bitfore
:
VoL. I. Ss ' Our
314 TRA^^XS
their corn Is by that time threflied, and the countiy covered with
fnow, every operation of huflbandry is at a Hand.
No.inconfidcrable number of runic ibngs, and thofc not of the
Our townfmen then will neer go frcCf
But plunderd evermore will he
:
No ; pufs FU bake as nature fent her> .
With ikini fur, nature lent hen
As I faid thit> (m pufs in hafte
I rolld up neatly in a paile
;
The pally^bakd without delays ,
To Uleabbrg I took my way ;
d crofs the river on the icet
And relied thb ofBce in a trice
And there I faw my good ^ommis.
And glad> be aBiit^d^ I was to fee^
Saluting} 1 my preibit make.
Taking from out my bag a cake
:
Whats this youve brought me here, cried he.
This is not furely meant for me $
HerC} take your cakC} I pray noW} back.
Youve fomething better in that fack
;
You pcafants of Paldamb never
Come hither without fomething clever
;
1 knoW} at home} youre neer without
Fifh-palHeS} either jack or trout
:
Comci fearch your bag} and fet me down
One lhall do credit to your town.
Thus fpoke the Commis \ you inay fwear,
Thefe words I was well pleasd to hear i
So out I luggd, without demur^
Pufs in the pally, ikih and fitf
Better receivd to gift cond be >
Aye, this is fcHnething likei cried he |
Now, my good peal^t, for die fike
Of this, you mull refrefhment take.
Coffee
THROUGH FINLAND. 315
lead merit in point of compoifltion, are of the produdion of females
of the clafs pf ^inniih pealantiy.
Before the general ule of wind and water-mills, corn was re-
Coffee I had ; punch too he gave \
Brandy befides he made me have.*
My congees made^ to town I went*
And left the Commis well content.
Paldamos peafant now has ended
His tale, by neighbours well attended ;
You too attention pay to verfes,
Peafant Vanonen here rehearfes
;
*
What gets Vanonen for his pains ?
Gifts much like that the Commis gains %
Pafty of cat, or foflic fuch matter
;
But left you think I idly chatter \
And talk thus when my tales npt closd,
Becaufe I am to aid it posd ; .
I now will haften the conclufton.
And ihew you Ritzi in confufion
}
Ritzi, 1 fay, for fo tis lamd,
Our officer by all was darnd.
The pafty you may think was not
At Ritzis fupper-time forgot 5
For being large, fupposd of BOn,
It made at table the chief difti*
The epramiffary tried the paftc,
And found it rclifhd to his taftc t
Within the cruft he made a hole.
And brought out what he thought a jole ^
Jole pf a jack, fo he did gucfs>
Twas the hind legs nor more nor lefs
;
His mouth he foratchd with pufss elaws,
This fifli had fli^ teeth inhis jaws
5
And fjiylng thk, a dou]bt <
Wliich to clear up, on fearch he goes
:
S s 2 The
316 TRAVELS
duced to dour by the labour of the han^, either by pounding in
mortars, or by grinding betwixt two lh)nes. This was a daily
talk, and it fell to the womans lot to perform it in Finland, as in
other countries. During the long and dreary winters of that cli*
mate, they were engaged in this work at home, whilft their huf*
bands abroad were either in purfuit of game, or employed in the
necellary bufinels of feeking wood, forage, &c.
To cheer their minds, and beguile their labour, fuch of the
women as were unable to invent fongs, ftudied the compofition
of new ones ; whilil others who were not lb happy as to polTefs
that talent, fung thofe they had learned, whether new or old. In
The pafty now is opdi Isudy
.
Md aU the rogues trick is difplayd i
But words I want now to exprefs
His rage, his fury, and diftrefi;
He (lampd, he fwore, with paion ftutterd.
But calmer grown, thefe words h^ utterd
:
How wretched man t exposd to cheats I
At meals who knows not what he eats \
This day it may be leg of cat,
To-morrow fomething worfe than that ^
Thro life in sdl things thus hes cheated,
And moft when beft he thiplu hes treated y
One truth he firmly may believe,
That death (hall furcly not deceive s
But howeer fiitkptuou(ly he eat>
For worms at la(l wUl make him meat.
Thus ends Vanohens tale, which you
Have Uftend with attention to
;
I truft you think it wdl beftowd, ^ .

For all allow the mor^ good.

'
one
THROUGH FINLAND,
, 317
one of thefe a female pftafant deferibes herfclf at work in thele
words
:
* Pliwat pybrin petkeleifka
Kiwen puullk kukuttelen.
Fixd to this mill all day I Hand,
And turn the ftone with patient hand.
Thefe fongs, called jauho runott or mill-fangs, arc for the moft
part fung to a flow plaintive air. If two women arc employed at
the mill, they arc fung in parts by both ofthcm ; but when they
relieve each other, fhe only fings who works. Thefe fongs are
compofed on a variety of fubjeds ; fbmetimes grave and ferious,
at other times ludicrous and fatyrical ; one while a love ftory, and
not infrequently the prai&s of fbme heroic aiflionr
Love, which is* the great buflncfs of the fex, is, as may well be
fuppofed, the topic upon which the energies of the Finnifh poctefs
arc chiefly exercifed ; it is, however, not an cafy matter to procure
fpccimens of thefe fongs, as they are generally fung by the young
women at meetings, to which men arc rarely or never admitted.
Mr. Franzen of Abo prefented me with a fong, the compofition
of a country girl, a native of Oftro- Bothnia, and the fervant of
the maglfter or the clergyman of the village, where fhe had conftantly
refided. It is compofed on the occafion of her lovers abfence,
in a ftylc of natural fimplicity, ftrong fentiraent, and bold
figure, to attain which, more cultivated underftandings fbmetimes
labour in Vain. '|'he thought in the fccond flianza, if not altogc*
ther
3i8 travels
ther new to poetry, has fomething in it very ftriking, is prettily
introduced and well turned. This little piece, conlidcrcd as the
prndudion of a girl who could ticithct write nor read, is a.Won*
derful performance. It is natures poet delivering the didates of
her heart in the words which love has fuggefted, and fnatching
a grace beyond the reach of art. This t'inniili Sappho, amidft
all the fnows of her ungenial climate, difeovers all the warmth
of the poetefs of Lelbos. I (hall lay before the reader two tranflations
of this fong, the one in profe, the other in verfe.

'
The following profe tranflation is as near the original as the
Englifh language can approach the Finnifh
I.
Oh ! that my beloved were now here ; That his well-known
figure were but before me ! How Ihould I fly into his arms. And
kifs him though his face were befmeared with the blood of a
" wolf! How fliould I prels his hand. Even though a fhake were
twilled round it
!
II.
Alas ! why have not the winds underftanding ? And why is
** the breeze bereft of fpeech ? The winds might exchange fenti-
ments betwixt my beloved and me. The breezes might every
inflant carry my words toldm and bring back his to me.
III.
How then would the delicacies of the redor s table be negledcd
1 How inattentive ihould I be to the^refs ofhis daugh-
ter
!
THROUGH FINLAND. 319
ter ! I Ihould leave every t6tng to attend upon my beloved,
who is the dear objed of my.&mmer>thoughts, and winter-
cares.
This verfion in rhyme is neither lb clofe as metaphralc, nor fo
dillant as paraphrafe.
I.
Oh were my love but here with me
!
Coud I his well-known perfon fee,
!
** How Ihoud I fly to his embrace,
Tho* blood of wolves diftaind his face
;
Pre&d to my heart, his' hand woud take,
Tho twere encircled by a fiiake.
II.
Thofe winds that whifper thro the wood,
'Why is their fpeech not underftood ?
They might exchange the lovers prayr,
And figh for figh returning bear.
- III.
ni^ookd the redors meals woud be,
** Drefling lus daughter wait for roe
}
Whilft kit(^en, toilet, J forlake,
And thought of my love only take j
On that alone my care beftow,
l^y fumnKrs wilh, my winters vow.
The
5aa TiL&Vji5
*
, i'lie laft fpecimcti I fliaU ptoduw ofFirtnifh poetiyj bi
compofition, is the following fragfticnt of a fong of donfidefablc
length, which the Finnilh nBrfcs arc accuftomed to ilng to children
in the cradle. It may be cohfidcrcd valuable, inafiriiich as
it marks the genius of the nation. The words were tiiken down
w hilft a nurfe fung them and rocked her child to fleep. The
perfon who wrote down the words was well acqumntcd with the
Fianiih tongue ; but the woman knew no more than this part of
the fong, and no opportunity offered of obtaihirig the remainder.
It is hoped no reader will be difplcafed at finding here fuch a
fpecimen of genuine tendernefs, fimplicity, and piety, though in
the form of a lallaby*long.
. Sleep on, fleep on* fweet bird of the meadow ; Take th3r reft,
little redbreaft, take thy reft ; God fhtill awake thee in his own
good time ; He has made thee a little bough to repoft thee on ;
Abough canopied with the leaves ofthe birch-tree ; Sleep Hands
at the door, and feys ; The fbn of fleep Hands at the door, and
^
fays ; Is there not a little child here ; Lying afl^ in the cradle
;
A little child wrapt up in fwaddling cloths ; A child repbling
under a covalct of wool.
The laH fpecics of pOetr]^ Of vrtiioh fllMI'malte identibn^ is
that which is common' tetih to Hie Finns ^wf Lfipianders ; we
mean thofe ruiuc verfes whici^re fuppbfi^ tb'hc^^^^ with
magical and extraOidinaiy virtues. Thefrfon^,%HcK bWe their
rife
' THROUGH FINLAND. . j*,
j
rife to the darknefi of gentilifnl, were not filenced when thofe nations
became enlightened by the gofpel ; they were even interplated
in the times of papal fuperftition for the purpofc of deluding
the people ; and thefe will probably be the laft of the runic verfes
that will be forgotten, as notwithfianding all the induftry of the
clergy to root out llich prejudices from the minds of the people,
the Finns ftill privately favour and countenance thefe fongs, being
ftrongly of opinion, that they are poffeffed of fecrct virtues, and
have a fiiperior degree of efficacy when employed.
In point of compodtion they are conddered by many as ineftimablc
monuments of antiquity, and perfedl: models of genuine
runic poetry. They are diftinguiffied by their admirers from the
common runic verles fung at public meetings, which by them are
accounted profane. Some of a ipecies named Ingut, or ledures,
are never fung, but delivered privately in a low murmuring voice,
accompamed with horrid geiriculations.
The Finns have many runic verfes which are dippofed to contain
healing powers, and thofe are flyled fanat, or charms; as
'madan-fanatf charms for the bite of a ferpent ; tulm-fanati charms
to cure fcalds or bums ; raudan-famt, charms to heal wounds,
tic. &c.
Thefe charms, as has been already obferved, are very numerous
;
and though not much efteemed the inhabitants of the feacoaft,
are in the highefe repute amongft thofe who dwell in the
interior and mountainous parts of the country. This is likely
to continue to be the cafe, as long as the pradice of phyde re-
Vot.I. Tt mams
3*4 TRA^to
imaiihs
in the hands of itlhcfant em^incs and ignorant old women.
They jointly with charms ufe ibme iimple remedies, as lalt, milk-,
brandy, lard, i&c. but attribvte the cures they perform to fhe fu>
perior efficacy of the verfes they fing during the application the
chief theory and foundation of their praAice confifiing in a -belief,
with wluch too they imprefa thek patients very ftrongly, that
their complaints are oCcaiioned by witchcraft, and can only be
removed by means of thofe incantations.
Of thele charms it is not eafyto obtain fpeciffliens, as they who
e
arc verfod in them are unwilling to communicate them to literate
men, elpecially when they lee them prepare to commit them to
writing, as they fear to be reported to the magilhate or clergyman,
and punilhed, or at lead; chided for their iiipetltition. It is a pity
the clergymen will not be at the pns of diferiminating betwixt
the vetles, wluch are the ptodudlion of fuperfiition, and thole of
an innocent nature. So far are they from attending to this particular,
that they do their utmoll to difeourage runic poetry in
general, and without exception ; which partly on that account,
and moire owing lb the natural changes which a length of time'
brings about in all human afiairs, are rapidly falling into difufo,
and in a few years will be only found in the relations of travellers.
The intelligent reader will have mmarked the perfeA fimilarity
between thefe fongs of the Finlanders and thole of the early Grecians:
the fame fimplicity of eOmpofition, diflkted by identity of
occupation. Almolt every prOfelfion anaong that gayj lively, and
incomparable people, had its peculiar fong. Sp^mots handed
down
^ THROUGH FINLAND. , 323
down from the remote!^ antiquity might be adduced, of thofe
limg grinders ofoom, by lovers, and by nurfes, quite in conformify
with the Finnilh fongs wbich precede. But it is unnecef-
&iy; iat as the fame caufes are found invariably to produce the
ime effe^i .ib muft the manners of rude and uncultivated people
be always the fame. If there be any caufe for admiration, it will
arife in finding fo little difference of manners and fenriments between
the inhabitants of the coldefl regions, and thofe living in
temperate and the moft genial climates.
Tt 2 . CHAPTER
3*4 TRAVELS
CHAPTER XXIV.
Dtparturefrom Uluiborg'-^Dffficulty oftravelling to the North Cape,
through Lapland in Summer-^Flan adopted bjt the Author and his
Friends-^Freparatiemfor the Joum^ t onAceeJm of twofellow
TravellersA^eSHng FarewellJourney purfrud-^Lfcription of
a Finlandi/k DancelSd/ne Specimens of MufcAmufement at
HuttaArrival at Kemi.
^
I
''HE time was now approaching whetr we were to take leave
^ of our friends, and prolecute onr intended travels to the:
North Cape. Thisjourney appeared to evory body at Uleiborg
chimerical, and a- projed: that would be found impradicable on
experiment. Every petibn ofour acqutintance pidured Lapland'
to us in the moR frightful colours r they alTured us frcun authori^
ties true, or fuppoRti to be true, that in fummerit was abfolutely
impoifible to find a road, or to pais from one place to another
Our friends confoled themfelves, in the proTped of our departure^
with the idea, that we ihoutd foon ourfelres be convinced of the
impradicability o( our plaUr and being diicouraged by the firil
obfiacles we ihould meet with, th^ ihould foon have the plea
fure of feeing us agam on our returu to Ule&borg.
In the courfe of our day here wc had RuiKed to ohtmn information
THROUGH FINLAND. 3S
mation refpeding this jotimcjj from every perfon we could hoar
of who had vifited Lapland ; we wrote to a merchant at Tornea
;
we procured intelligence from Ibitie clerical miilionarics, who had
been in Lapland ; but there was not one individual who could
give us the fmalleft advice, as to the manner or even the poflibility
of travelling in that country in fummer. They all had been
there in winter only, and had travelled, in fledges drawn by reindeer
: the mifllonaries, in like manner, refldc there only in winter,
and return for the fummer to villages which have an open
communication with Ibme town. There tvas not an individual
who could furnifli us with a diflinft idea, or any fatisfadory information
on the flibjed. All ieemed, to a man, to be firmly of
opinion that the journey was not to be accomplifhed. They knew
pcrfcdly well how we might get to-Upper TomeS, toKcngis, to
KoUare ; but no mortal could tell us how it was practicable to
penetrate the length of Muonionifea. They were pretty accurately
acquainted with the road that leads to the church of Jukssjervi,
and a lake which forms thejource of the river TorncI; but we
chofe to avoid this route, which different traveUers had gone before
US, and which is already fufficiently known. We were rcfolved
to follow the footfteps of no one, but to trace out a line
of road for ourfelves, or not to engage in it at all. It was our
plan to keep as much as poflible in a line of the meridian to Tornea,
and proceed towards the North Gape in the ftraighteft direction
poflible. In order to gain our objed, it would be neceffaty
to leayd the river Tornea^ to follow the courfe of the Muonio.
326 TRAVaS.
niq> at all events to rewh Muoni()iHrcai^ and from Muotuonifca
to diKd our Reps towards KaMjtokeino. Having arrived at Kauto*
keino, wc fhould find ourtelvcif .on the borders of a river which
falls into the Frozen Ocean; and we prefumed, that hayipg enibarkcd
on this ftfcam we could glide down aU the way tp, the gulf
of Alten, with the fame, cafe as the wa^r of the river itfelf. That
having got, to.^^n, we ihopld certmnjly penetrate to the North
Cape, eithet by
,
water ot on fbpt,i and return by.the fame, or fuch
other way. as eimumfhmces smd, our, topographical iiifoymation
might mcornmend as the mpR convenient and fure.
Tlw whole of this fcheme of trayeh .which we ineant to purfuc,
was regarded as a cqftk m the air
, ,, tcaycd by, an Italian, who had
lightly token it into Us head t^ Lapland vyas juR .fuch another
country, as Itoly; and who was. wholly .ii^ the dark as to thole
difficulties which arc met with in a diftridt lb far to the north.
Ptopofed cnteiprife had given occafion to much epnverfation
in the . ncighbc^faood
^
of yto&bQrg, and ..people fhewed much
curiofity to fee us. Mr. Julin, a, gt^ naturalifl,. and pofTefled
"'ith a ^to^g delii|>,of acquiring farther knowledge and ipforma-
*iP .hf^P^Jtemptod. by. cMir plan,^ and the confidence he repofed
i d!* fuffcring:himfelf;to be pcrfuaded by pur importunities,
confented .to accona^ny usj. apd. Jtp.diidc with. Us pm pleafures
4 P^ins. Mr. jQalheim .m.iniRcr .pf^Kcmi* - airman , extremely
.inforined, and , a ftcP^cd alfp dilppied to join the
party ; and thus our hopes pf4wceR jn jhe undet^king were ye*y
confiderably railed. We were,proud, of having, mad^ ^WP i&ch
important
THROUGH FINLAND. 3*7
im^rtant ^cquifitiorts, arid wft appeared in our own eyes to have
half conquered the difficulty of reaching the North Cape. Influenced
by thefc cheering ideas, we made J^he neceflary arrangements
Yor ourjourney.
We purchafcd a Ruffian tent to fhelfcr us from the rain and
the inclemencies of the weather ; and laid in a flock of proviflons
for twenty days. This cbnftfled of bread, bifeuit, cheeie and dried
flcllr of the rein-deer, with a calk of brandy. We provided ourfclvcs
with a double barrelled gun, a thermometer of Cclfius, a
map by Hermelih, and another by Pbntopjndon ; a compais which
alfo marked the hour, a box for the reception of inleifls, tobacco,
fulphur, and camphire for the prefervation of birds and ikins. By
way of prelents' for the Laplanders we took nothing but brandy
and tobacco ; the former of thefo articles being of all others the
mofl acceptable pre^nt you can bcflbw.
Our departure from Ulcibiw^ brought out all the ladies and
gentlemen of our acquaintance.'** They formed' a fort of proceflion,
which accompanied us all thd way to the boat that was to
carry us to the other fide' iof the riven * It' vi^' at ten oclock at
night, on the 8th of June, 1799, when the fun flili Ibevvcd himfclf
above the horizon. Our lafl: farewell was tender and affceiihgi
ahd my departure f^ town wiU be a moment in my
life ever grateful" to my tebolleetionV ' In thofi; countries a man
is riot all^med of the tears of friendfhip : he feeks not concealihient
when fontimeht ekeites the'eniotlonl of grief or joy.
* Having fanded'ofl 'thc bppolite lidc Of the rivfcr, wc puTfoed our
. journey
3*8 TRAVELS
k
journey in a kind of waggon or cart drawn by hories. The place
where we eroded the mouth of the river is about two thoufand
yards broad; there ar^boats for*the purpole of carrying travellers
over, with accommodation for a carriage and horfes. Here the
women perform the avocation of boatmen.
We changed hories at Sukuri, nine miles from Uleaborg : the
road was very good, though always in the midft of woods and
meadow grounds, called by the Swedes Hng, or ing, from whence is
obviouHy derived the Englifli word inge. In thofe countries mcadows
do not conlift, as in other places, of open grounds without
trees, but are in general covered with brulh-wood and Ihrubbery,
to whudt they lend their cattle to pafture on the narrow pieces
of ^afs that run through thefe meadows. The great woods, in
whi(^ there are trees of enormous fize, lerve as a commim pafture
to all the pca^tty of the neighbourhood. They conftahtly
hang a bell about the hoiib necks, and let them run about in the
woods for four months, without giving thcmfclves the leaft trouble
concerning them. We changed hories about four times after
leaving Sukuri, before we got to Teftile, a place conlifting of two
or thnee wooden houfcs. Tho above four ftages are too inligni*
hcant to merit any farther notice.
Having crowed a fmall river named Leivaniemi, in a ferryboat,
the ferapingtof a fiddle invited us to enter the hut of a pea<f
fant, Handing on the left bank, where ten or twelve coimtry
people were dancing i^th all their might. Our entrance interrupted
the dance, and the fiirprile occafioned ^by the novelty of
our
THROUGH FINLAND. 3*9
our appearance feemed at firft tdiay fomc degree of reftraint upon
the dancers. The only one among them who flicwcd he vva.s not
to be drfeompofed was the fidler, wfio continued diligently in the
pradlicc df his calling ; for he was blinds and confcquently knew
nothing of what happened around him. Thefe pcafants, however,
foon became familiar with our foreign afpeft ; and being
entreated to proceed and fliew us their dance, they refumed their
places.
Their dancing confiftcd in the moft ruftic jumping, without
the fmalleft grace, mixed with certain capers ; in executing which
the women made their petticoats fly about in the air. There was
no variety in their fteps, nor paflion in their attitudes, nor expreffion
in any one of their countenances. They danced with the
fame earneft diligence that would have influenced them in the
performance of any thing by which they were to^ave gained their
bread. The only variety that entered into this extreile, was a
difference in the pofltion of tlicir arms, which they alternately
laid one over the other, in a Very aukward manner, without difcovering
the moft diftant notion of tdlc or naturkl grace. It was
foraewhat curious to obferve thofe people amufing themfelves with
fuch a ferious 'air, and without even having the Imalleft difpoft*
tion to fmile. A pot of beer was placed upon the table, which
every body might make ftce with, but was ufed 4>nly to quench
thirft. It was fo weak, however, and reduced fo much with water,
that it could neither ftupify the fenfts, nor raift the fpirits of
**
the company. Every creature, even the mufici^ was quite fober,
VoL. It U u -avery
330 TRAVELS
a very rare thing at a feftival of Finlandifti pcafaftts, where they
generally regale thcmfelvcs pretty liberally with brandy. This
party of pleafurc apparently infpired (b little mirth, that oiic could
not help believing that the people danced from a fenfe of duty.
In the number of fii or feven women, which the female fociety
was compofed of, there was not one tolerable, or capable of exciting
the fmallcft fenfation of tendernefs. They had coarfe and
vulgar faces, with fliapcs ill-turned ; and did not fuggeft the
flighteft idea of any thing plealing or graceful. The long waift
of their clothes, with very fhort petticoats, contributed ftill more
to render their figure difagrecable.
After having looked at their manner of dancing for fome time,
I took but my port-folio to note down the mufic. Scarcely had
they feen me begin to write when they left off dancing, and came
to fee what I doing. The blind fidler was unable fo gi?cfs
the caufe 'Sf thofc interruptions, which diverted their attention
from his mufic, and made them forget their dance. They at laft
let him into the fecret, and we afked him to play us a couple of
Finlahdifh dances, the moft truly national in his colleSion. He
gratified our ciiriofity, and I fuccceded in taking down the tunes,
which the reader will find in the Appendix.
After making a fmall prefent to the blind man, we withdrew
from the ta/Z-voow, and mounted upon oiir waggon to ptofecute
our journey. The blind fidler, however, was fb fenfibly, touched
with bUr fmall prefent, that he got up, and under' the condu<ft
of all the dancers, not only followed 'us out of the hbofe, but a
THROUGH FINLAND. 33 *
good part of the way, con^ntly entertaining us with the beft
miific he had.
In our progrpfs from Teftilc we \vere to change horfes at Hutta,
a fmall village of four or five houfes, where they have one apart*
ment for the accommodation of pafTengers. Bad weather and the
fatigues of the journey determined us to pafs the night in this
place. As it was ftill too early to go to bed, we lludicd to employ
this interval in the beft manner wc could. Some peafants
and girls of the neighbourhood, prompted by curiofity to look at
us, entered our chamber without ceremony. * As we had fbmc inftruments
of experimental philofbphy along with us, wc wifhed to
give the good people fbme amufement ; but the firft objedt that
attraded the admiration of the men and joung people, was my
double barrelled gun : they fhewed fuch aftonifhment at this invention,
that I am furc I could have purchafed^with it the houfe
and all the.women in it. They afked me how muth I had paid
for it, and guefting the price beforehand, one of them laid to me,
At Icaft one thoufand ri:^ j^llars. They all exclaimed, With
fuch a weapon the old;io|p; in the pelicc (meaning the bear),
would have no chance. Wc fhewed them our thermometer,
a telefcope, and laft of all, to put an end to their oh ! ohs
!
among other exclamations of wonder, we produced a microfeope.
We prefaced this entertainment, however, by obferving to them,
that before we could afford them any pleafure with this inftrument,
they muft catch us a flea. The whole company fella
latighing at this demand, but perceiving that wc were ferious, and
U u 2 . pcrfifted
33 TRAVELS
w
{)crfiftcd in qur rcqucft, the yoUYig men began to examine their
lliirts, as well as thole of the girls, and there was a general hunt
for the little animal we wanteS. The poor flea was never chafed
with fo much anxiety as on the prefent occafion. One ofthe girls
withdrew for a little, and foon returned holding fafl: her prey. We
ftrung the viftim upon the needle of the microfeope, and Ihewed
it to our audience. It is impofliblc to exprefs the geftures, the
exclamations, the cries of admiration, which the light of this animal
of wondrous lize drew from them. Luckily the inflrument
I
was of no great confequence, or I fliould have thought it in much
danger of being broken in a thoufand pieces. Our Ipedlators,
male and female, fnatched it out of one anothers hands with the
moft aftonilhing impatience. They never feemed tired of examin-.
ing the different limbs and form of the little animal, accuftomed
to live at their expcncc.

.
From HuWa to Kemi is about eighteen miles, which we accomplilbed
on Monday the loth of June.
CHAPTER
THROUGH FINLAND. 333
CHAPTER XXV.
The Mhiijler of the Varijii of KemiEnvirons of this Tonjon^The
River near Kemi : Danger of navigating itThe Church, a magnifccnt
BuildingStriking Contrqfi it makes with the miferabk
Huts around itIFalk from Kemi to a Jhort Diftance to look at
fome Church BellsExperiment tried hy the Author of a Finhmd'fh
Vapour-BathSome Intelligence relative to Botany and
EntomologyDeparturefrom Kemi, and arrival at Torttea.
WE were lodged at Kemi in the houfe of Mr. Caftrein. This
gentleman, whom I had not feen before, though 1 had
heard much of him at Uleaborg, was the perfon who propofed to
attend us on our northern expedition. He is a man of extreme
gentlenels and politcncls of manners, and is poflclTed of much
knowledge, though without pretention to it, and without being
aware of his own merit. He fpeaks Latin well, French a little,
and underftands German. Latin and German were the languages
we preferred for our converfation. Mr. Caftrein is the firft minifter
of the parilh of Kemi ; and he has the ftipcrintendcnce of a
country comprehending about nine hundred Englilh miles fquarc.
Bcfidcs his wife and children, he has eleven brothers and fifters to
fupport : by this numerous family he is looked up to as their common
334 TRAVELS
mon father, and the moft perfedb harmony reigns among all its
members.
We were two days at his houle, and in different cxcurllons
vifited the environs of Kemi, which, compared with thole of
Uleaborg, appeared like a paradile. The prolpe^ is more diver*
filled, the grounds are bolder, here and there fwell into little hills,
and are by no means lb flat and Tandy as in the vicinity of the
former city. Here the river is confiderabiy broad, nor is it without
danger, infomuch that at Kemi and other places they have
pilots to navigate their trading veflels to its jundion with the lea.
In Ibme places there is not a fufficient depth of water for boats
of a large lize. Two years ago a merchant in the neighbourhood
wilhed to conftru^l a much larger boat than had ever been fecn
before on this river ; and he conceived it would be very fealible to
float it down when the river happened to be overflown. The,
boat was laden with grain, and had fome perfons oh board: it
fortunately efcaped the three principal dangers, or falls, and had
only to pals two more, which they confidered of lefs confequence;
but the boat flruck. Was dalhcd to pieces, and many lives w-ere
loll. A large portion of the wreck remains in view to this day
between the rocks of Kemi, lerving as a melancholy memorial
of this unfortunate enterprile, and as a warning to the imprudence
and avidity of prOjedlors and merchants.
The river Kemi abounds in falmoii ; and their filhery is fo lucrative
as to afford a principal part of the minifters income,

amounting to more than a thouland rix dollars Annually. Oppolite

THROUGH FINLAND. 335
fite to the church, and ill the piddle of the river, is a fmall ifland,
where the inhabitants of Kemi hold a fair once a year, at which
thcy*fell and exchange falmon, either for money or for other articles.
The church is an edifice which offers a fingular and furprifing
contrafi: to a foreigner travelling in this country, where he would
not cxpcdl to fee any public building in the ftyle of regular architefture,
and in all refpeds worthy of one of our own towns. This
ftructure being offtone, mull have cofl an immenfc fum, confidering
the few refourccs ofthofe poor people, who could calily difpcnfc
with fuch an expenfive building, and pray to the Deity as effectually
in a wooden temple. The defign of this church was made
by the academy at Stockholm, and was honoured with the approbation
of Guftavus HI. It is adorned with a dome or cupola, and
three principal entrances, *with doric pillars, and hence has the
appearance of a Grecian temple. Placed in thofe favage regions,
in the midll of woods of fir trees, and contraflcd by the fcattcred,
contemptible huts around, it forms a wonderful and flriking objcdl.
It is with fincere pain I mull here remark, that clofe to this
magnificent temple I entered the hut of a poor Finlander, the
diminutive fize and external meannefs of which had attraded my
notice. He was probably the pooreft native of Finland I had met
in the courfc of my travels to this place : the fpacc of ground on
which his houfe flood was twelve fquare feet, and the roof Ibc
f in height. This unfortunate man had a complaint in one of
his hand^, which 'rendered unfit to gain his livelihood by
labour.
336 TRAVELS
labour. His wife was making tl^cir bread, and had heated the
oven to bake it; the bread contained fo much ftraw, and fo little
meal, that in order to make tlfe dough adhere, flie was obliged to
ufe a wooden frame, fuch as is employed in making chccfc. He
had neither field> nor eow, butter, milk, nor animal food, and was
exitHng in the moft deplorable condition. I confefs the prefence
of thofc doric pillars, contrafted with ib much poverty and mitery,
irritated my feelings to fuch a degree, that I Ihould not have been
forry to Ice them a heap of ruins. To what purpofc this parochial
magnificence, while the parifhioners themfelvcs remain in a
ftate of ftarvation ! Down, faid I within myfclf, down wdth
the pillars, cupola, and temple
;
give again to tbefe poor wretches
their w6nted humble place of deyntion, and inftcad of wafting
treafure oh idle Ihow, beftow it in cultivating the foil and giving
them fubfiftence.
'

.
Nothing in fociety can be the fource of more melancholy to a
feeling mind, than a tjuick and violent contraft of extreme poverty
and luxury. 1 remember to have experienced fimilar mournful
reflexions on the inequalities among- men in the courfe of my
travels through the Britiih dominions. It was in Ireland, where,
happening to be with a hunting party, I perceived a hut formed
from a dunghill ; on looking within, I faw naked children fleeping
without any fort ofcovering for their bodies, with their father, their
mother, and with hogs: and what liipported this mifcrable hovel?
A wall of ten feet high, which liirrounded his honours park.
With regard to the poor Finlander, of whom iohave been fpeak-
_
ing.
THROUGH FINLAND. 33;
ing, I communicated my imprcflions to Mr. Caftrcin, who was
aSedte^l by my deicriptiony and ptpmiled to take care of that unhappy
family.
One of the wonders which our new friends were dciirous to
fliew us in our walks about Kcmi, was a bell that was intended to
be fixed in the dome of the new church. We were accompanied
thither by Mr. Caftrein s fitters, and our expedition was cohfidcrcd
as a kind of icred vilit. The great objedt of our curiofity turned
out to be a couple of bells of a moderate diameter : they were
loaded with a number of Finlandilh inferiptions. The place
where they were, was but at a little dittatux from the minitters
houfe. Mott of our party, ourfelves excepted, were perfedly acquainted
with the language of Finland ; and the ladies undertook
to read the inferiptions, and tranllate them into Swedifh. The
prettiett girl in the company immediately read aloud, Catzo,'
&c. &c. Scarcely had ihe pronounced the word, when we began
to laugh like fools, and the ladies, ignorant of the caufe of our
' mirth, thought that catzo mutt be a very laughable word, an#
therefore never ceafed repeating it in the whole courfe of our walk,
at table, in;.converfation, and on all occaiions. Let the reader
judge what fort of ettcA this word, fb often repeated by the company,
mutt have produced on the cars of two Italians. Caizo, in
Finlandifh, lignihes here is.
Mr. Cattrein, who wilhed to inttruA me in all the Finlandifh
cuttoms, afked me if I had ever bathed according to the ufage of
the country ; and being anfwered in the negative, fald, we fbould
Vox.. I. X x then
'r-y, >t:r
33* TRAVl^ ^
then take the bath together, that 1 might become more familiar
with the mannera and c.uftoni9of the natives. The (tones in the
fmall apartments of the bath were accordingly heated, and a young
girl ofeighteen ..yea^ of age,: .who the office of attending, in*
formed us when eveiy, thing was ready. Aft^ we entered the
bath, the girlfirft gripped us naked, and then began to throw
water as uiiial upon the Hones. She prefented us with a balbn
of cold water, and birch rods, with which we were to fwitch our*
felyes. < . Feeling as a'Hranger, I was quite out of countenance at
my prelent (ituation, but drove to keep up my fpiritsby conftantly
tumingi my eyes towards my companion, and endeavouring
to imitate, as much as poffible, his mod exemplary indifference.
The heat of the vapour rofc to fifty degrees of Cclfius
:
at fird I felt a violent oppreffion, and had it quickly augmented,
I believe, naked as I was, I ihould have made my efcape from the
bath ; but forcing myfelf to perlevere, 1 became gradually accuftomed
to it, and after (bme time was able to fiipport a heat of
%5 degrees. Under this heat it was an extreme pleafure to throw
water upon the head, and tOi. feel it running all over the body.
The birchen rods were gunilhed with leaves, apd by dipping them
in the bafon of cold-water, and aderyvards laApig the bodyi one
enjoys nearly the fame fenfation. ^ IJaving-been about half an hour
in the bath, my friend Cadrein, as I declined being the fird to fubmit
to all the ufual diicipbne'Of. tbe place, entered upon the procels
without dilay, in order ffiat I might lee ho'w I ought to condud
myfelf in my turn. The girl gave him a little dool to fit upon,
threw
THROUGH FINLAND, 33r
threw cold water upon hisTiead,Squeezed his hair, and with foap and
water waihed his whole body, and rubbed him down to the girdle.
She then wc'ht to his feet, and rdbbed his legs completely, particularly
his ankles, and the tendon achillis. Meanwhile I was extremely
attentive, and almoft fti:q)ified at the whole operation :
but what aftonifhed me moft was the perfed; apathy with which
the miniftcr endured this long and ftimulating procefs. When it
came to be my turn to fiibrait, I found myfelf in a Hate of extreme *
embarraffmentand at lall: I was very glad to get on my clothes,
and walk out of the bath. At quitting it^ we made a preient uf
fome halfpence to the girl : this is a very ancient cuftom, to which
every individual invariably conforms, aild is obferved even by a
mafter towards his Icrvant, as in the prefent inftance. This
prefent has a particular appellation in the language of Finland,
namelyfauna raha>
Before we take our leave of Kemi, it is proper I fhould give
fbme account of our botanical ekeurfions. Mr. Caftrein is an excellent
botanift, though he follows this purfuit more as an araulement
than a branch of ftudy. It is to him that the Icicnce islndebted
for the difcovery of a famous plant, viz. cypripedium bulwhich
yvas firft feen by Rudbeck, in the year 1 685, but
had never been found fihee by any botanift, not even hy the great
Linnaeus, who paffed this way in July, and cqpfcquently a month
after it had been in flower. This plant Ikulks among the under-
Wood and fir-trees, which, furroiind' the church of Kemi. It mo-
A*
deftly eludes the prying eyes of the paflehger, and loves the tem-
. X X 2 . perate
340 TRAVm
perate enjoyment of the fuas rayswhiiSh can only reach it by infinuating
thcmielves between the branches of the buihes that
overlhadow it. Dr. Smith, Pft;f. L. S. has given ds a coloured
figure of it extremely accurate and Uyely, which the reader may
fee and admire in his colle^on of rare plants. This is one of the
rarefl as well as moft beautiful produdUons of the North ; it is indigenous
in the parifh of Kemi. Hitherto it has been difcovered
no where elfe, except, as I have been informed, in North America.
The other plants in flower which we obferved in this neigh*
bourhood, are the following
:
Daphne mezereum . Ranunculus acris
Vaccinium myrtillus Ttollius Europaeus
Lychnis dioica . Caltha paluftris
Viola paluftris Arbutus uva urfi
Viola canina Pinusabies .
Viola tricolor
Insects.
Cimexlacuflris Hunerobius lutorius , .
Tipula juniperina -
As Mr. Caflrein, from his love to botany, and a hope of difcovering
new plants in the deferts of Lapland, had iffolved to attach
himfelf to our expediticar, we accordingly fet out altogether from
Kemi, and anived^at Tomei the fame day. We chtmged horfb
only once, which was at Leivaniemi, and we met with nothing
worth mentioning on the whole road to Tomea;, efccept the ravages
which the inundariohs of the rivers bad*made this year, by
throwing
THROUGH FINLAND.
. 34'i
throwing down all the bridge, aiid overflowing a vaft trad ofthe
furrounding country. Spring-time, which in other countries is
the leafbn that brings along with it every thing grateful and of
good prefage, is here the forerunner of misfortune, and frequently
of the mofl: terrible difafliers. The fhow, as it melts on the tops
of the mountains, produces enormous fwclls in the rivers, which,
breaking up the ice, hurry along with them vaft maflcs, heaped
one upon another. Thefc tear down, fweep before them, and
lay wafte every thing they meet in their courfe which may tend
to oppofe their violence.
In going to Tomed you are obliged to profs in a ferry-boat, and
leave the horfes on the left bank of the river, which at this place
is extremely broad and majeftic. At a fmall diftancc from the
fpot where we entered the boat, is the church of Lower Tomea,
.fr- ijn which there is a fine view of the town, and where we ufcd
fometimes to amuft ourftlves by contemplating the ftm at midnight.
There is a very good inn at Tomed, and we found the hoft
cxtrennely civil and obliging.
CHAPTER
trails
CHAPTER XXVf.
ManpertuU's jyefcriptioh of TorHf^Account of tkis Titwn, by the
AuthorThe ClimateView of the Sun at MidnightProJ^eSl
from the Church of Lower TornA>-^Harbour of Torneh-State
of the Bothnian Gulf in this Vtcinity^Trdde tf the Town
Some Travellers mentioned that have vifited TornehInfcriptions
preferved in the Churchat Jukasjervi.
From the time that Maupcrtuis, and the other French academicians,
travelled into this Country to meafure a degree,
as a mean of afeertuning the abial figure of the earth, Toi leii
emerged from its obfeurity, and b now well known to all the
world. The firft advance it ihaide tow^s fame was not in its
favour. Maupertuiss defeription of it, which he read in die academy
at Paris, infpired every breaft with tender commiferation for
the poor inhabitants, who had,tbC'mbfortune to be bom in fo
raiferable a town. "The town of Tornea, he faysj " on our
arrival there on the 3bth of December, ptefented an truly
" frightful. The low houfes, from bottom to tcp, Mrere funk in
" the fnow, which hindered the light from entering in by the
" windows, while the fnow always falling, or ready to fall, ob-
" fhudled the rays of the fun, which was felrfom vifible even for
" a few
THROUGH FINLAND. 343
a few minutes at mid-day. In the month of January the cold
was fo great, that the thermometers of Reaumur, which fell
14 degrees below the freezing {>oint at Paris during the great
froft of the remarkable winter of 1 700, here fell to 37 degrees.
Spirits of wine froze. On opening the'door of a warm room,
the external air rulhing in, inftantly converted the vapour within
into a fleece of fnow. On going out of the room, ones breaft
was as it were tom by the air : every moment there appeared, in
the cracking noife made by the burfting of the wood of the
houfes, threatening lymptoms that the*intenfenefs of the cold
 would be dill farther increafed. From the folitude that reigned
in the ftreets, one would have fuppofed all the inhabitants to
be dead: in Ihort, at Tornel there were to be feen perfonswho
had been mutilated by the froft; fornc had loft their legs and
".arms. The cold, always very great in thofe parts, was often fo
fcvere as to prove fatal to thofe who were expofed to it. A fud-
den tempeft of fnow at times menaced ftill greater danger.
The windffeemed : to blow at once from every quarter of heaven,
and with fuch violence, as to throw down the chimneys of
houfes. Any one who fliould be caught in fuch a ftorm in the
country,, would in vain endeavour to find his way by means of
his acquaintance with places, or marks made by trees. He is
blinded by. the fnow, and plunges into fonjc abyfs if he move
! a- flep 'v'
If the^ academician draws a frightful pidure of TorncS, which
he few only in vfmter, wc.awt a,,CQnditi9n to fupply its counterpart
344 TRAVELS
part in fummer, and efface the traces of thole melancholy im>
prelhons which his exaggerated defcription may have left on the
imagination of the reader.
*
The town of Tome& contains a population of fcarcely fix hundred
fouls. The houfes are almoft entirely of a lingle llory,
though high enough to exclude the moifture of the Ihow in winter.
The merchants of Tomea inhabit the fouthem part of the
town, which they have been at pains to embellilh, and render as
agreeable as polfible ; they have made a public walk, laid out
gardens, planted Ibme trees, and have ftudied by their induftry to
compen&te for the defelils of nature. The obfcure days of winter
are counterbalanced by the almoft continual prelence of the
fun in fummer, and their 48 degrees of cold, to which the mercury
falls in one fealbn, are exchanged for 27 of heat, to which
it riles in the other ; for thele are the two extremes of the the>
mometer that have been oblerved in Tomea.*
The towm is almoff entirely encircled by the river TorneS,
which Ipreads itfelf here in a m^eftic fft^m.. The oppofite
banks prelent a number of cottages and lam houfes, which the
river, when quiet and undi^rbed, reliefs from its pellucid waters.
Northward you fee a final! elevation, on the top of which Hand
feveral wind-mills, and lower down to the north-i^ll: are Ibme
meadow grounds and cultivated fields. It is commonly from one
of thofc wind- mills that travellers view the fun at midnight in
* See De la Motrayes Travels, vol. ii. p. 288. He was in Tomel 19th May,
n1
8
, and found all the town deftroyed by the Muiicovites.^
the
THROUGH FINLAND.
the month of June; but the place moll particularly calculated
for enjoying this fpe<flaclc, is the church of Lower Tornca, fituatcd
on the Iflc Bibrkbn, about a mile from the town. Bclidc^ feeing
the fun entirely above the horizon at this point of view, the eye
commands the environs of Tornea, the two mountains Bakamo
and Korpekila, and the town itfelf, whu a is built upon the little
illand, or rather peninfula, of Swcnlar. The houfes, and the
church wdth its ftecplc, being refleded from the fmootli furfacc
of the river, afford a very pleafing pidure.
Merchant llilps, that fail np the gulf of Bothnia, may come
almofl: clofc to the town ; and Indeed, anciently, Tornea was
famed for its excellent harbour. The fand, which the fca carries
into the northern parts of the gulf, feems to threaten ruin in the
courfc of tiPxie to the trade of this province : for it appears to me
certain, almoft to demonftration, that the ports of Tornea, Uleaborg,
and fome other places in the northern quarter of the gulfi
lofe in depth of water every year.
This town was founded in confequence of an order of Charles
IX. when he paffed through this province in the year l0o2. The
articles of their export trade are butter, tallow, faltcd and dried
meat, faked and fmoked falmon, ftromingen, which arc a fpccics of
fmall herrings,* planks, and timber for building, tar, fkins of rein
deer, foxes, wolves, ermines, and of other animals belonging to the
country, with a vail quantity of birds. The articles they import

* Clupca harengus minor ; membras vctcruni.

VoL. I. Yy, are
34<3 TRAVELS
arc corn, flour, fiflt, hemp, flax, woollen cloth, coarfc linens, tobacco,
and fpices.
*e
In the winter feafon the merchants travel in their fledges to
different fairs, where they buy of the Laplanders their moft valuable
furs, and give them in exchange fifli, meat, meal, and
brandy. Some of them proceed as far as Archangel, and others
to Alten in Norwegian Lapland. They carry on a contraband
trade, which is the moft profitable of all others ; and as the boundaries
which divide Norwegian from Swedilh Lapland, are but ill
guarded, they cafily convey from one fide to the other fuch articles
of commercial fpeculation as they find moft advantageous. They
lend to Stockholm great loads of faltcd flelh of the rein-deer, and
an infinite number of birds. There arc years in which they export
thither to the amount of four thoufand birds, which in winter
will keep for fome months without fpoiling in the Icaft.
A view of the fun at midnight in Tornea, has always been
regarded as an obje<ft Angularly interefting ; and hence a very
confiderable number of travellers have vifited this place. I was
at pains to feek out and take down the names of fuch as arc moft
diftinguiflicd for their curiofity, literary labours, and merit, and
who have a right to be added to the lift of men of letters. Perhaps
it will not be unacceptable to my readers to lee fuch of the
names as 1 have been able to colled, which are the following
:

I begin with the firfl: French traveller in this country

In the year *
,
1081 Jean Franc Regnard, de Fefcourt & de Corberou;
IO94
THROUGH FINLAND. 347
In tlie year
1C594 King Charles XI. of Sweden.
KJOfi The profeflbrs Spoil and Billbcrg, fentby King Charles XF.
to obferve the elevation of the fun at midnight.
1 095 Profeffor Olaus Rudbeck, for the purpofc of making difcoveries
in natural hiftory.
1096 John Ulric Wcftmiiller.
1 7 1 8 Aubris dc la Motrayc, who has printed his travels in Englidi,
which, in general, are very accurate as to what relates
to Lapland.
3/36 The prefident Gyllingrifs, who has publiflicd his remarks
on this country in Swcdifli.
1736 Maupertuis, Outhicn, Sommereux, DHerbclot, and Celiius.
^ 7O9 Mr. Mallet, profeffor of aftronomy. He paffed by Tornca
in his way to Pcllo, where he was to obferve the tranfit
of Venus over the Sun.
1783 The Marquis Paul Arconati Vifeonti.
1 786 Mr. Marcy, a French emigrant.
1787 Le Chevalier Statclla, knight of Malta.
' Lc Marquis de Tourbie. William Langhorn, an American, famous for his walking.
He paffed the mountains during fummer to enter Norway,
and returned on his way to Archangel.
John Stuart, an American.
1791 Dr. Quenzel, Swede, for the purpofo of making refearches
in natural hiftory, particularly in entomology.
Yy2 1792
343 TRAVELS
In the year
^^

1 7g2 The prclidcnt Vcfvrotti, with Mr. Outiverou, fecretary

of legation to the S^anifli cmbalTy.
Mr. Lifton, miniftcr from England at the court of Sweden. John Schellcr, a German, who has
publilhed his travels.
] 79O Lc Due de Chartres (now Duke of Orleans), with Mr.
Montjoye, incog, under the names of Muller and Froberg.
1 799 Mr. Bernardo Bellotti, from Brefcia ; Jofeph Acerbi, from
Caftelgoffredo ; Colonel Skioldebrand, from Stockholm
;
Mr. Julin of Uleaborg.
Mr. Clark, with Mr. Cripps, two Englilhmen.
Mr. Swamberg, fecretary of the academy of fciences at
Stockholm, fent to verify Maupertuiss meafurement of
a degree.
Linnaeus of courfe came to Tornca in his travels through Lapland,
but I do not cxaAly remember the year. See Iter Lappon,
Some of thofe perfons penetrated as far north as Jukasjervi,
and a few of them went even beyond it. It has been the com- .
mon praftice for travellers to purlue the direftion of north-weft,
as it has always been fuppofed, that to ftcer due north is impoffible.
In the church of Jukasjervi there is a book, in which,
in imitation of Regnard who firft came to this place, they have
had the ambition to write their names, and to ftiew their talents
as men of wit. As it is a collcftion which fhews the genius of
the men, and of no great length, I thought I Ihould not difpleafe
the reader by laying it before him.
No. I.
THROUGH FINLAND. 349
I * No. I.
Gallia nos genuit, vidit nos Africa, Gangem
. Haufimus, Europamque pculis luftravimus omnem,
Calibus ct variis afti terraque marique
Siftimus hie tandem, nobis ubi defuit orbis.
Dcs Fcfcourt, de Corberou, Regnard, at Jukasjervi,
i8tli Auguft, i68i.
Every body knows Regnard and his dramatic performances.
He was the firft Frenchman who took it into his head to travel fo
far to the north ; and he was fo enchanted with his fuccefs, that
he fancied he had reached the end of the world, thougli he might
have continued his journey two hundred miles farther in the fame
direftion, without having a right to employ the laft line of his
infeription. If we could believe him, he met with a French
blackfmith in Lapland, who told him, that in his whole life he
had feen but one traveller in that country, and that was an Italian.
Upon his return to France he publilhcd his travels through Lapland,
full of untruths and exaggeration, written rather to amufc
than inftrud, though the book made much noife at the time. He
fays, for example, That he met blackfmiths in Lapland, who
had the Ikin of their hands fo hardened and callous, that they
could hold melted lead for fome time in the hollow of the
hand. He alfo tells you, That the eagles carry up into the
air the young rein-deer, and that the petitsgrismA ermines hang
themfclves on a tree in autumn, to prevent their dying of hun-
Oger in winter,*&c.
No. II.
35<^ TRAVELS
No. JL,
Gallia milii luccm dcdit, et liberum Anglia portum ; utraquc me
Germania, Groecia Magna Minerque, mons Jovis, ac Barccllona,
Hcrculifque columnae, ambsc A(ue, Italia, Africa, hifquc oppofita
Melitc, Euxina et Mxotica, Cafpia, Baltica nec non littora vidcrunt,
vidit Polus Arfticus ipfe, et mihi inocciduum oftendit Lapponia fo-
1cm ; proque cibo et potu carncm et lac rangiferinum praebuit, ut
Tartaria olim praebebat equinum.
Haec feribebat ad Jukasjcrviain rediens ex Torniavcnli lacu Aubris
de la Motrayc, Magnae Britannia; fubditus, 13 Junii, 1718/*
Mr. Motrayc feems to have been a traveller of confequcncc.
It appears from his biographer, that he lived in particular habits
of fricndfliip with Charles the Xllth, king of Sweden. When he
printed his Travels in England, he does not fcem to have been
quite plcafed with his infeription at Jukasjervi, which is neither
verfe nor profc (as he w^ould make us believe that he wrote it
extempore), and he has altered it in the following manner :

Me gcnctrix tenuit bis denis amplius annis,

Gallia, me Italia, Africa terra, Britannica regna,
Ambae Afiac, Mclite fterili vicina Cofyrac,
Utraque me Germania, Gra;cia Magna Minorque,
Urbes Tarraco, Barcinon, Hcrculexque columnar,
Euxina ct Mctotica, Cafpia, Baltica nec non
Littora vidcrunt ; vidit Polus Arfticus ipfe,
Ac mihi inocciduum oftendit Lapponia folem,
Proque cibo ac potu carncm ct lac rangiferinum
Prsebuit,
THROUGH FINLAND. 351
Prabuit, ut* quondam prxberc Iblcbat cquinum
Tartaria.
A. dc h Motrayc, die 23 Junii, 1718.*
No. III.
Bcnclic un fccolo piu tardi, fpinto pcro da non minor curiofita,
dalla l.ombardia il Marcheic Paolo Arconati Vifcoiiti vilito qucRo
luogo ai 5 di Juglio, 1783.
No. IV.
Eft terra antiqua ubcrc gleba potens, Lingoncs Colucrcviri, Burgundiam
nunc Galli cognominc dicunt, hac milii patria. Plurcs per-
luftravi rcgioncs : vidit me Germanus, fuperbi vidcrunt Britarmi, et
quos dives pafeit Flandria, atram vomcrc qui paludcm cxcrcucrunt
<< Batavi, qui bibunt Viftulam Danubiumquc, horrentes Alpum qui tcnent
rupes, Tiberis qui facrum colunt littus, plurcs que alii. Poll va-
rios cafus et magna diferimina rcrum, polarcs appuli ad aras, inocci-
duum folcm, rangiferorumquc gclidum ubi Lapponcm ubera vidi
preffantem. Curfus fuit ad locum quam Waida-Kafta dicunt, niillus
ubi antea penetravit viator. Multum fui et terris jaftatus ct cataraftis,
multum quoque et culicibus paffus ; rediens cx his delcrtis, et properans
in Galliam fedes ubi fata dederunt jucundiorcs, Jukasjervino
hancin tcmplo appofui inferiptionem, 7 Julii, 1796.
Marey, a native of France, who alone have traverfed the deferts
of Lapland. ,
Tombeau de la nature cffroyables rivages
Que Fourfe difpute encore a Ihomme fauvage. i
* See Ills Travels, vol. ii. p. 333.
t Piou, in his Tragedy of Guftavus Vafa.
No. V\
352 TRAVELS
,
!
No. V.
Non mihi fama fed hofpitalitatis ct gratitudlnis tcIUmonium.
* *1
S. Stewart, civis orbis 3 Julii, 1787.*^
No. VI,
Jufticc bids me record thy hofpitable fame, and teftify it by my
name. W. Langhorn, United States of America, July 23, 1787.
No. VII.
Gallia me genuit. Gallia ! heu gloriofa, hodic contempta, eras
forfitan nihil ! Rcgi fidelis, patria, fub rege quondam felicc, nunc
plebeiana tyrannia opprefsa, emigravi ; Magnam Britanniam, Hifpaniamque
cognofeebam ; primum Italiam, poftea Hungarian! vidi,
Helvctiam revifens per totam Germaniam, Poloniam, Mofcoviani,
Ruffiam peregrinatus, per Finlandiam Stockholmiam acceffi, unde
in Lapponiam incurri, in focictate Francifei Outaveri Hifpani nationc,
ex Nallia in regno Murcise. Hofpitium dedit venerandus adr
modum Jukasjervenfis paftor Daniel Engelmark, cui teftimonium
gratitudinis mcac hie afFero.'*
Carolus Ricardus de Vefvrotti, vir nobilis exDijone in Burgundia,
Praefes in fuprema nationum curia has vilitavit regiones, die 4 Feb*
'
ruarii, 1792.
CHAPTER
THROUGH FINLAND.
ff 553
CHAPTER XXVII.
R^dence at Tomeif^l^iiie Individuals ^ this Place mentioned
nevo Addition to the travelling Party : Enumeration of thefcieniific
Perfons thaPnmo compiled itDeparturefrom TorneaSome
topographical Remarks on the Environs-Foee of the Country between
Tornea and Upper TorneaD^erent Stages that are pajfed
Salmon FfheryParticular Method ofeatohing thefe FfhAn
old Man ferving for a GuideA Bathing-place, efter the Fnlandifi
FafhionHand-miils for grinding ComA few Plants
mentioned,
TOURING our Ray at Tomci we became acquainted with
every perfon who was at all dilpoled to be ibciable. The
moll conllderable meichant of the town is Mr. Richard, a man
well acquainted with the concerns of his country, and pofl^d
of a great Ihare of natural good lenfe : he has been always a re>
prefentative in the national diet, and is the mod corpulent man
I ever faw in any country. The burgomafter of Tornea was extremely
polite and obliging. -We received civilities from the mafter
of the town-Ichool, who Ipeaks French, and is a man of Ibmc
merit : he lives, mvh agunil his inclination, in Ib remote a corner
of the North : he is fettered to the place by the ties of a wife
I. Z z and
SS4 TRAVELS
and children. We likewife had the good fortune of being introduced
to Dr. Deutfeh, a perfon of gentle and engaging manners,
and at the fame time very ikilful in his profeffion. He is a
great lover of the ftudy: of natural biftory, and had by his own induftry
made a very pretty coUe^ion of Swedilh and Laplandilh
infefh, and one of plants : he had alio made Ibme progrefs in
cohering birds. He had confiruded a fmall cle^rical machine,
and his own ingenui^ had liipplied the want of thole means
which are fo eafily obtained in the more fbuthem countries.
Upon becoming acquainted wi^ the Dodor, we found him fo
intelligent a man, that we wen deiirous to induce him to become
one of oup party^ 8ni|therefore made the propofal to him, which
he acc^ed^ more indeed, I believe, &om a love of fcicnce, and
particularly of natural hiftory, than from any other cpniideration.
His profeflion would not admit of a longer abfence than a fortnight
; but, to oblige usj he conlented to go with us as far as
Kengis-bruk. We now only wanted one individual to complete
our caravan. Wc had in Mr. Caftrein a. very good botanift ; in
Mr. Julin, a mioeialo^ft ; in Or. Deutlch, an excellent entomo*
logift ; in ColoneliSkidldebrand, a landfcape p^ter. As for me,
I charged rnyfelf with the article of omitbology, and the pihee of
digefting the communications of my fellow-trayellers, who every
evening gave me the names of the ipecimens they had found,
with tibeir own ob&rvations upon them. . Neverhad anyjourney
a roore.promihng appearance at . the outlet eodd, ^Lapland
ever have a chance of being explored in a manner more agreeable,
THROUGH FTNL^D. fsS
able, more inftruftive, at the'&mc time more ufeful. Nothing
was wanting to render our traveUing company quite compleqt
but one man ; this was Mr<^Secretary Swamberg, whom we
faw at Tomea, and who was on his way to Lapland, being commillioned
by the academy of Iciences at Stockholm to alcertain
the truth of the operations of Maupertuis and his colleagues,
which were undertaken at the fame time that Condamine failed
for South America. An aftronomer and mathematician added to
our philolbphical Raff would have made us the moll; relpedUble
corps that ever traverfed the mountains of Lapland. He was
our friend, and defircd nothing more ilncerely ; but the Ihip
which had on board his quadrant and other mathematical inftruments
of oblcrvation, was not arrived ; and its arrival was fb uncertain,
that we could not hazard a delay, as our time became
every hour more precious. We therefore rcfolvcd to depart, and
proceed with all expedition to Upper TomeL where we propofed
to begin a more accurate courlc of oblervation.
The peninfula of Sweniar, upon which the town of Torned is
jfituated, has by fome been very improperly called an {/land. It
is joined to the continent by a tongue of land, which, indeed, is
overflowed when the river is high ; but fiill hories in carts are
able to ford it, and the people frequently pais it upon fleppingflones
: it cannot therefore be confldered as an ifland.
From Tomel- to Upper Tomed we perceived no alteration in
thenature of the country, nor in the hoolosor inhabitants of
Finlandt^The C9nvenience of traveUing is the iame, and you find
Zz2 horfcs
35 TRAVELS
horfes all the way. The road is naturally goodj, and kept in excellent
repair : but at Upper Tornea every thing terminates
; you
inftantly obferve that you arc^about to enter an uncultivated
country, and to take leave of the ciyilized world. No more
lior/es, no road, no lodging for paflengers, except a fort of caravanfory,
which the merchants of Tornea have provided for their accommodation
in travelling in winter to the different fairs, which
are held at places extremely remote. Without anticipating our
detail, we will preraifo a iketch of the country and objeds that
fell under our notice on the route to Ofver, or Upper Tornea.
The environs of Torned arc cxtrenicly naked of wood : it was
in great abundance formerly ; but at prefont none remains, except
in one diffrid, where it is preforved by a prc^tdn^ for the purpolc
of harbouring game. s
We changed horfes at Kukko, which lies at the diffance of foven
miles from Tornea. Kukko, in the language of Finland, fignifics
cock, and it is probably the name for a particular fpecies of that
bird, whofo crowing has fome analogy to the note of the cuckoo.
The line of the road runs pretty clofc to the river Tornea. After
Kukko we paffed very near to the villa of Mr. lUchard, the merchant
of Tornea, who is.^d of a cout^ life, and devoted to
agricultural purfuits. He has laid out a garden, which he cultivates
with great care, and in which he has made repeated trials
to raifo various exotic fruits and plants. His gardener tpH us he
had attempted to rear apple treea, which had taken root anff .fuof
ceeded .for three yeaw, but then died. The only plant in ^wet
* when
THROUGH FINLAND. 357
when we were th4'e waWv// perrennis ; but the following grow
in the neighbourhood : herheris vulgaris, coryhis avellana, SiiUpa,
nardjfas, aqmlegia, torpeobm, paoitia, diantlias, riles.
We again changed horfes at Frankila, a village confiding of .a
few wooden houfes, nine miles from Kukko. We faw here fome
women whofc looks were mild and rather agreeable ; the children
too of a good appearance; but we were ftruck at the fight of
their bread, which is made of two thirds draw, cut very fmall,
and one third of meal. From Frankila you fee at a didance the
mountain Nivavara, where dill remains the flgnal pod which the
French academicians ereded on its fummit to alTid in their trigonometrical
operations;
After Frankila you change horfes Korpicuia (korpi lignifics a
wood, kiiJa place), a didance of about eight miles. In this place
the river Tornea forms a bafbn of tranquil and gentle water,
which fucceeds the boiderous tumult of a fall or cafeade, called
Matkakolki. The river prclents no plcafing view in this vicinity.
We found in a houle hard by Ibme pealiints employed in making
theirfilhing nets; there was one who dhoked from fb Ihcrt a
pipe, that my companion remarked it, faying to me in Italian,
che piccolo pippd. The Finlander who was fmoaking, rmderdood
pcrfcdly ourItalian, and repeated as he turned round to us, laughing,
denoting ill I^inlandilh the fame
as in Italian.
Eight miles from Korpicuia is' thO'church of Kirkomeki flirko
fignifying dhurch, r^ki, a'hill), fituatidUpoh an eminence. About
hall
358 TRAVELS
half way the iioifc of the river, wijich Is he^ at a confidcrable
diflance, fuggefted to us the idea of a cataraa ; and having, in
confequcncc of this circumftan^e, traverfed a wood,* with a pea*
fant for our guide, we came to the place from which the found
proceeded, and found that it was occaiioned by the vehemence
and rapidity of the river forcing itfelf through a narrow paffage.
Here we fell in with two or three parties fifliing for falmon, and
we helped them to draw a net, which contained five or . fix hfh of
very confiderable lize.
The common method of catching &Imon in the North is by
driving a palifadc, which extends from one bank as far as the
middle of the river, and fometimes even to the oppofite fide
:
between the fbkes of the palifade they put branches of trees, or
perhaps net*work, which hinder the falmon from afeending the
flream, and leave only one opening where the fifh may pafs
through, but where they have placed a net which is ready to rc-*
ceive them. It is not permitted to make their hx-pata, the Fin*
landifh term for the palifade, longer than a certain meafure, and
they pay in proportion to its length, and alfb its proximity to the
mouth of the river ; for fuch as arc high up the river can only
catch the falmon that cfcape all the fifhers below them. This
palifadc, or lax-pata, is always fet where the river is moft' noify,
and where it forms.a fall. The people ofthe country fhew an incredible
dexterity in walking along thofe fbdees, which the force
of the current fhakes in a fiirprifing manner : women and children
trip over them with wonderful adroitnefs and fecility. We wifhed
to
THROUGH FINLAND. 5^9
to give them our^ffiftancc ift drawing their nets, arid by a great
exertion 0/ courage, we got over alnaoft one third of the palifade,
but if one of my companions had not dcfiftcd in tiniie, his head
becoming giddy by the motion of the water undeir his feet, he
muft have dropt into the river. The children and even the men
thcmfelvcs are fometimes too confident of their agility, fo that
fcarce a year pafles without fome of them falling in and being
drowned, the current being too ftrong for a boat to be of any ufc
to them.
The addrefs with which the Finlanders drive their Rakes into
the bottom of the river, at places where the current is extremely
rapid, deferves likewife to be noticed, as an operation highly dangerous
as well as difficult, and to which thofc poor people fometimes
fail vidlims.
in getting to this part of the river we went nearly an Engliffi
mile out of the road, where we left pur horfes. Our guide, who
led us acrofs a fmall wood of firs by narrow footpaths, was upon
his return to vifit his cowrhoufe, which Rood in the midR of ffie
vyood. , We could not avoid feeling intcreRed for this man. He
was feventy-five years of age, and had fcrvcd in the war of Pomerania,
or, as it is commonly called, the leven years war : he fpokc
German a little, had been leveral times wounded, imd, as an invalid,
had a piece of ground affigned to him.* In this ipot, fepat
rated from the world, his induRry had improved his little fortune
ib as to tenable lym to live comfortably with his wife and children,
and to feed eight cows, whoR good condition aRbrded him
infinite plcafure.
TRAVELS
Wc took leave of our aged coropkhion, and fvere purfulng our
journey, when a ftorm and violent fall of rain obliged us to take
refuge in a houie upon an eminence on the left fide of the river.
Here we bad An extenfive profped, which prefented to our view
different difliids of the country overflowed by the river Tornea.
This houfe liad a bath quite in the tafte of Finland, and wc
amufed ourfclvcs by looking at the men apd women who entered
into the bathing ; room. The men undrefled themlelves in the
houfe, and ran naked into the bath, which is at a diftance of fifteen
or twenty feet from the dwclling-houfc. The women, it is
true, took off their clothes in the bathing-place itfelt^ but they
threw their petticoats on the outftde, and thus were obliged to
come out, like fo many Eves, to put them on. They threw, their
clothes out of the room to prevent their becoming wet by the vapour
of the bath. When they were all in the midft of the bath,
my curiofity influenced me to run in alfb to fee what was going on,
and to flation my thermometer in a comer of the bath for the
purpofe of afeertaining the heat ; but it was fo infupportable, that
being abfblutely unable to breathe, I mado my way out as fell as I
went in, havmg had Icatcely time to look around me. I twice
attempted to place my thermometer in the room, but I vtas obliged
to call my Finlandifh interpreter, who was more accuftomed to
it, and I found that the heat was 65 degrees of Cclfius.
At Kirkomcki we met with what I may call an excellent lodging,
and a very polite landlady, who was not of the feme dais
with the peafentiy, but a relation of a merchant in Tome&. In
a fmall
THROUGH FINLAND.
a finall houfc adjoir ing, I faw a kind of hand-mill to grind corn
for the family : it c^nfiftcd of two round ftoncs, in the uppermoft
of which was inferted a flick, ^wdiofc other extremity paffed
through a hole in a triangular board, which was iaftened to the
corner of the room.
Proceeding fix miles beyond Kirkomcki, we arrived at
which word fignifies, in the language of tlie country, a pmnoniory
: here w'c changed horfes for the laft time. It is a groupc
of fmall wooden houfes, where we faw' fomc little boats on the
river Armesjoki : the place is a fmall dependency of Tornca,
Farther on you have a view' of a mountain named Luppio, whicli
is compofed of rocks that arc fecmingly falling into ruins.
From Niemis to Upper Tornea is eight miles : this is the lafl
ftage of the journey. The road is mountainous, and in fomc
places fb full of fand, as to render it extremely fatiguing to the
horfes. We reached Upper Tornea on the eighteenth of June in
the afternoon. The plants which we found in flowxr, in the
courfc of this route, were the following :
Menyanthes trifoliata Cornus fuecica
Tricntalis Europa^a Leontodon taraxacum
Bctula nana Rubus chamoemorus
Andromeda polifolia Rubus arfticus.
VoL. I. a A CHAPTER
t^6?. TRAVELS
CHAPTER XXVIIL
State of the Road from Tornea to Upper TorneaThe People that
inhahit this Tra6l of CountryOfver Tornea, or Upper Tornea
The Superintendent Mini/ler of that ParifhHojpitality of the
Clergy, and their Attention to TravellersVifit to Mount Avafaxa
: the Account which Maupertuis has given of this Moujitain,
very accurateRemains ofSignals upon the MountainInfeSis and
Plants found on, or near Mount Avafaxa. Flora Avafaxenjis
Meat kept very long in the cold SeafonDeparture from Upper
Tornea : Lofs of onefellow Traveller who returned home.
^THHE whole of the road from Tornea to Upper Tornea is tolerably
well formed, and kept, as I obferved before, in good
repair, and of a fufiicient breadth to admit of travelling in any fort
of carriage : it has been made in the courle of thelall thirty years.
When Dc la Motraye* was in this country, he was obliged to perform
his journey in a boat. Travellers fliould contrive it fo as
never to have occafion for more than four horfes at a time, as you
meet with ftages where there are no more to be found. If it
Ihould fo happen that a greater number is wanted, the company
Ihould divide into two parties, one going on a day before the
* See his Travels.
other.
THROUGH FINLAND.
other, wlio will hav^ the fame horfes after they arc returned from
the firft.
Thb country rifes into fmall hflls, which here and there arc
covered with pine and fir-trees. In the vicinity of rivers, and in
marlhy ground, the willow and birch-trec feem to be favourites
of the foil. The profped affords nothing very intcrefting, except
the continual prefence of the fun, which, as he never leaves the
horizon, renders travelling by night extremely agreeable.
The inhabitants, on the whole of this route, are of the true
Finnifli race, and fpcak the genuine language of Finland ; they
all have the fame habits, the lame ftature, the fame drefs, the
fame wants, and the fame manner of living.
Ofver Tornea, or Upper Tornea, is the parilh which has the
llipcrintcndence of all the clergy and churches of that part of
Lapland, which is in the dependence of Tornea, The head miniftcr
of the parilh is the reverend Mr. Swamberg. Having paid our
compliments to him, he infilled on our lodging at his houfe with
our whole company, ten perlbns in all. The place where travellers
commonly Hop, is the village of Mattarange, at the diftance
of about a hundred yards from the clergymans houfe ; but Mr.
Caftrein, who was of our party, being himfelf a fuperintendent,
and of the fame rank w^ith Mr. Swamberg, could not have remained
with us, or done lefs than fleep at the houfe of a brother
clergyman. There was Hill a more cogent realbn for our lodging
with Mr. Swamberg, namely, that at Mattarange the accommodations
are mifcrabfy bad, and would not have been capacious
3 A 2 enough
3^4 TRAVELS
enough to hold all our party. Bcfides, it is ai^ cftabliflied cuftom,
and generally followed by every traveller throughout the Swedifti
dominions, the great road cxiepted, to go diredly to the clergymans
houfe, and to aih for a chamber to lodge in, with the fame
freedom as you would ufc at an inn ; for the public houfes kept
by the peafants arc fo very bad, that it is impoffible for decent
Company to ftay in them. The clergy, who, for the moft part, are
wealthy, and wearied with the dull uniformity of living in thofc
fequeftered regions, cut off from all focicty, are extremely happy
to receive a ftranger who is acquainted with what is paffing in
the world, and with whom they may converfe of public and of
private tranfa<ftions. He is entertained in a fuperior ftyle, and
treated with the moft delicious fare they can procure.
The clergy almoft univerfally fpcak Latin, fome few German,
and as they have had a college education, you find one now and
then who fpeaks a little French : with the help of thefe languages
you make yourfclf underftood by the mafterof the family, but one
fuffers a vaft difadvantage in not being able to fpcak, in fome degree,
the language of the country. In the houfes of the clergy you'
fometimes meet with extremely handfome and amiable young
ladies, who having for the greateft part been educated in a town,
or amidft the pleafures and diffipation of the capital, return home
with a certain pQlifh in their manners, which is by no means calculated
to render folitude pleafing, or to difpofe their minds to fupport
the contraft, and fudden change of fituations, with philofbphical
equanimity. Thcfc young women, however, like their mothers,
fpeak
THROUGH FlNLx\ND.
ipcak in general only their ncit;ivc tongue ; and yet nothing can be
more agreeable to them than the arrival of a traveller, and, above
all, *a young ftranger of good apj)earancc, who can one way or
another make- them underftand him. His faults in fpeaking feem
to be as many graces of fpecch, his ideas are always applauded as
original, conftantly found entertaining, and cither at once undcrllood
or gnefled. The more diftant the country from which he
comes, the more intcrefting is his perfon ; they contemplate his
face, furvey him from head to foot; are unable to reftrain a fiiiilc
of plcafurc in feeing him, and in hearing him f[^eak : the gaycty
of the family difFufes itfelf from the faces of the mailers to thole
of the fervants, and even defeends to the cat and dog, which, on
his account, dine and fup better than ufual. As they are at a
iofs to dillinguifli between a pleafant and cheerful entertainment,
and that of a ufelefs and troublclbme profufion ; in order to mark
their perfect good will to oblige you, they almoft fulFocate you
with tea, coffee, chocolate, liqueurs, punch, and drink of all kinds,
w hich fuccecd one another, in contempt of all order, with an opprcffive
rapidity. The moment of departure is always melancholy
: you fancy it impoffiblc to quit a houfc where you arc the
objeft of fuch unwearied attention and politenefs. Sometimes the
young ladies will make ufc of feme flratagcm in order to detain
you ; and I will honcllly confefs, that I have occafionally got into
the carriage when my licart was well difpofed to remain.
Such was the unbounded holj)itality we experienced in the
houfc of the rcvcitnd Mr, Swamberg. His daughters were pretty,
lively,
566 TRAVF.LS
lively, and pofldVed ibmc degree 0/ nat'ural wit. One of them
played on the piano-forte, and tolerably well for a dilettante of
that climate. There is an organift here for the fervicc of the
church. I'hc organ is a pretty good one, and was the objed of
the minifters higheft ambition, who has the honour to be clergyman
of the moft northern church in Europe that has an organ.
We paiTed two days in the fociety of this family, which, owing to
the many different avocations that fucceeded to each other witli
great rapidity, appeared very fhort.
Our vifit to mount Avafaxa was the pleafantefl and moft interefting
of all our excurfions. It is concerning this mountain
that Maupertuis fpcaks in his book on the theory of the earth.
Our walk w'as very fimilar to his, direded on the fame fide, and
in the fame manner as it is deferibed by that academician. Our
bodily labour was the fame ; and his defeription of the view from
the top of the mountain is fo exadly true, that I need only copy
it to exprefs my ideas. We even faw the falcons he mentions,
and which he made fomc unfuccefsful attempts to kill. The
accuracy of his account gave us great pleafure, and I fancied I
fhould gratify the reader by placing it here.
AVASAXA.
This mountain is fituated about fifteen leagues from Tornea,
on the margin of the river, from which the acceft to it is not
very cafy. The afeent lies through a foreft, reaching up nearly
to its middle. The foreft itlelf is intcrruptcd,by a great aggre-
gate
THROUGH FINLAND. 367
gate of rocks and flippcfy ftoncs, after which you again find the
wood which forinerly extended to the top; I fay formerly, bccaulc*
wo had all' the trees cut down with which the fummit was covered.
The north fide of the mountain confifts in a frightful
precipice of rocks, in which the hawks build their nefts. At
the foot of this rock runs the Tenglio, which winds round the
Avafaxa before it difeharges itfclf into the Tornea. From this
mountain the profped is very beautiful. Towards the fouth it
is open and unbounded, and the river Torncii is feen to a vali:
extent. On the eaft, the eye traces the Tenglio as far as its
courfe through fundry lakes. The view to the north extends
** to twelve or fifteen leagues, where it is interrupted by an aflemblage
of mountains heaped on one another, reminding the fpectator
of the reprefentations that are made of chaos, but among
** which it would not be eafy to find one that would do jufticc to
the profpeft from Avafaxa. Maupert. vol. iii. 8vo. p. 1 10 .
On the higheft fummit of the mountain we found a quantity
of the remains of burnt wood, and many fragments w^hich tht^
lapfe of time had rotted and reduced to decay. We imagined
that they might be the relies of the trees which Maupertuis employed
in ereding his fignals ; but we were informed by the peafants,
that they were left from the fignals of alarm which had
been raifed in the year 1747, and likewife in the laft w^ar of Finland.
Thefe fignals confift in heaps of wood which arc fet on
fire to apprife the natives of the approach of an enemy. We ourfclvcs
made a large* fire for our amufement as well as to mark
the
^68 TRAVELS
the centre of rendezvous for the benefit of our compan\ , who
were engaged in different parts of the mountain. I will fubjoiti
a lift of the different objeds of natural hiftory, which were the
fruits of our induftry in the courfc of this cxcurfion.
Insects.
Papilio Ligea
Papllio rubi
Leptura interrogationis
Tenthredo lucorum
Tenthredo virens
Silpha quadripuftuhita
Cerambyx nodls
Elatcr teflclatus
Chryfomcla Lapponica
Cicindela fylvatica
Plants in Flower.
Lycopodium complanatum Convallaria majalis
Lycopodium Selago
Andromeda polifolia
Ranunculus auricomus
Vaccinium uliginofum
Mr. Julin made a lift of all the plants he could recognize on
the mountain of Avafaxa, and called it Flora Avafaxetijis ; it is as
follows
:
Geranium paluftre
Anthoxanthum odoratum
Bartfia alpina
Achillea millefolium
Andromeda polifolia
Arbutus uva u,rfi
Betula alba
Betula nana
Caltha paluftris
Erica vulgaris
Gnaphalium ?
Juniperus communis
Sedum ?
Lycopodium clavatum
Lycopodium Selago
Calla
THROUGH FINLAND.
Caltha paluftrif Mclampyrum fjlvaticuni
Canvallaria bifolia Oxalis acctolella
Empetrum nigrum Pinus abics
Epilobium ? Pinus fylveftris
Populus tremula Polytrichum ?
Cornus fuccica Sorbus aucaparia
Equifetum fylvaticum Tanacetum ?
Lichen rangiferinus Trientalis Europjca
Lichen gcographicus Trollius EuropcEus
Lichen tartarcus Vaccinium myrtillus
Rubus arcticus Vaccinium vitis Idaja
Rubus chamiemorus Viola canina
Rubus Idaeus Viola paluftris
Rumex acetofella
Mr. Swambcrg gave us for dinner, among other things, a roaft
of rein-deer, remarkable for its having kept good in his cellar eight
months. The animal had been killed in the month of November,
17Q8, and we ate it the 19th of June, 1799. I wifli, hy
mentioning this circumftance, to convey to the reader an idea of
the length of winter in this country, and for how long a period it
is poflible to preferve iced meat found. The roaft was excellent,
and it had not the Icaft of anunfavoury fmell ; it had no fault, but
that of being rather dry.
On the 20th of June, about midnight, we fet out from Ofver
Tornca, and all the, pleafiircs of our hofpitable quarters contributed
to make us feel more fenfibly the pain of our departure. This pain
was much' cncreafed by the loft of Mr. Caftreins company, who
VoL. L 3 B determined
37 ^ TRAVELS
determined to return to his family for reafons ^hat pleaded his cxcufe
fo forcibly, that we could give no oppofition to the refolution
he had taken. He had left his wife far advanced in her pregnancy,
and the fenfibility of his heart would not fiiffer him to
expofe himfclf to danger, nor to the contingencies of a journey,
the period of which it w^as not cafy to calculate. This lofs was
felt with real concern by all of us, and w^e were obliged to confole
ourfelves on our w^ay with pronouncing encomiums upon the
excellent qualities, both of head and heart, of this clergyman,
worthy of every thing that could be faid in his praife.
The whole family of Mr. Swamberg accompanied us to the
rivcr-fidc, where the boat was waiting for us, and we loft fight
of them, faluting them with our hats and handkerchiefs to the laft
momait.
CHAPTER
THROUGH FINLAND.
CHAPTER XXIX.
The Trnvellers henceforth proceed by WaterStrong Currents of the
Rivers, occajioned by CataraUsVafs by a Salmon-Ffhery : manner
of eating Salmon rawDifficulty of navigating thofc Rivers
Stages on this JourneyPafs the Arctic Polar Circle, 7iear the
Catarafds of Kattila KojkiAfhort Pajfage by LandPelto, and
Moimt Kittis remarkable for Masipcrtuiss AJlronomical Obferva^
iionsMr, Swamberg's Remarks on the Labours of Maupertuis \
from which it appears, that his Obfei-vatmis are 7iot to he depended
onMethod of obtaining the Eggs of the Mergus Merganfor
From Kardis to KengisArrival at Kengis, and Hojpitalityfhewn
by an InfpeSlor of the MinesA Sto?ie zvith very anciemt Infcrip^
lions taketi Notice of by MaupertuisPlafits and Infetls,,
np'HE wind was quite fair, and made our boat proceed with
greater expedition. Our Finlandifh boatmen, unwilling to
lofc fo favourable a moment for repofing their arms, put up a
fmall fail, which ferved to force us againft the current with a velocity
fufficiciit to carry us on at the rate of five miles an hour.
The boat was fo fmall that it could hold but four perfons in all,
and the confll<5l of the wind in furmounting the rcfiftancc of the
current, which was the efFcdl of cataradls, p reduced I'uch a fwcll
3 B 2 in
37 ^ TRAVELS
in the water, that it came fomctiipes into the boat ; a clrcumftance
which was by no means picafant to voyagers who had fo
recently changed their mode of^travelling, and who were better
acquainted with the dangers of land than water. Here we are
then, entered into a country where all communication by land is
precluded ; no more roads, nor horfes, nor carriages of any kind
;
in a country where you may travel about four hundred miles
without ever feeing cither a fingle horfe, or any road.
Kaulimpe is the firfl: village on the left bank of the river, where
wc changed our boat. We found here a lax-patay or palifadc for
catching falmon. The people there had caught, in the courfc of
the day, to the amount of three hundred pounds weight of that
fifli. We bought one of the largeft of their falmon, and learned
for the firft time to eat it raw. It is cut into llices tranfverfely and
put in fait ; when falted, it is left in a wooden difli with a little
water, and after three days this raw falmon is delicious eating.
It is a favourite dilh with the firft nobility of Stockholm, infomuch
that they feldom give a fine dinner when raw falmon is
not prefented on the table. This kind of provifion was a great
rcfourcc to us during our navigation of the rivers, as we were able
to preferve it a long time, and might eafily drefs it, at leaft as
often as we could find the neceflary trifling ingredients.
At the village Tolufis, otherwife named Juoxange, eight miles
from Kaulimpe, wc changed boats and boatmen for the fecond
time. This voyage was ftill more tempeftuous than the former.
Our men, like their predeceiTors, wiflied to take advantage of the
wind.
THROUGH FINLAND. 373
wind, and wc afccnded, with the help of a fail, amidft falls and
rocks, where we expected every moment to go to the bottom. It
recjdires a moft accurate knowledge of the bed of the river to
venturfe on this navigation ; and for this reafon it is but prudent
to change boat and boatmen at each village, as the peafants are
all pcrfcftly mafters of the channel in their refpedive bounds. At
certain intervals you will find in the whole breadth of the river
but one opening where the boat can pafs, and whoever is not apprized
of it will probably run his boat amongft a thoufand rocks
without fucceeding, but not without the nioft imminent danger
of perillilng.
Having arrived at Kattila Kolki, the boatmen took down their
fail and Ihewed us their addrefs in afeending againft the rapid
current of the catarads. Kattila Kolki is a long feries of waterfalls*,
formed by the ftony bed of the river, and by huge rocks
which rife above the furface of the water. Thcfe catarads arc
particularly famous on the map, as being the place which correfponds
to that divifion of the globe known by the name of the
Polar Circle. To afeend in a fmall boat fuch a formidable fucceffion
of catarads, where the water is almoft every where rolling
down in foam, would at firft fight feem impoffible ; but nothing
is impoffible to man, whom habits have rendered familiar
to danger. Thofc Finlandilh Laplanders, befides an addrefs peculiar
to themfelvcs, have what perhaps is of ftill more confequence
the moft perfed coolnefs and apathy. They take their
places, one at the "head and the other at the ftern of their canoe,
' and
o74 TRAVELS
dfid with a long pole which they thruft tb the bottom of the river,
find their point of rcfiftance, and thus pufli thft boat againft the
ftream. This pole is made of aipine, and about fifteen feet long
;
they are obliged to throw it with all their ftrength to the bottom,
in order to overcome the currrent which conllantly impels it
backwards. It is a Herculean labour ; bcfides, it requires infinite
prafticc to guide and manage the boat, forming, as circumftanccs
demand, many a fharp angle, amidfl: a multitude of obftacles.
The moft difagrccable, and at the fame time the moft dangerous
fituation is, the man refting by accident the end of his pole upon
a rock of a fmooth or round furface, in the moment that he applies
to it the whole weight and force of his body, the pole flips
from under him ; he falls in an inllant headlong into the river,
and the paflenger gives himfclf up for lofl:. The Laplander, however,
quickly recovers himfclf and prepares to repeat the fame
operation ; but it fometimes happens that the current gets the
afeendant and drives the boat a ftern. In this critical junflurc
the whole addrefs of the boatman is exerted to keep the head of
the boat dircdly oppofed to the ftream, till he is again in a condition
to pufli her forward ; and above all, to prevent her laying
her fide to the current, as in that pofition, by prefenting a larger
furface to the water, flic would inftantly be overfet.
In order to have fqme refpite from this fevere toil, the boatmen
requefted that we would difembark and walk along the bank to
the end of thefe catara<Ss. We \ycrc greatly ovegoyed to leam
that it was prafticable to go by land, and moft chfcerfully accepted
their
'^fllROUGH FINLAND.
*
their propofal. Thd great difficulty of palling thofc catarads with
ii boat, containing more than twa* perfons, had rendered it cultomary
to perform this part of the journey by land. The woods
being then impaflable, a narrow foot-path had been formed in
the diredion of the river. The iinpradicability of travelling
through thofe woods proceeded from the way being obftruded by
under-wood, and the branches of firs and pine-trees; from a
flrong kind oi mofs, which grows here in great abundance, and
fometimes two feet high ; and from deep marfliy foil, where you
are in danger every ftep of finking in the mire. Thefe obftacles
impeded the paflage through the woods ; and to remedy the evil
the people had cut down trees and laid them longitudinally one
after the other, in fuch a manner that the paflengcr as he walked
along the trunks was obliged carefully to attend to his centre of
gravity, and balance himfclf like a dancer on the tight rope.
We again changed our boat at Tortula, fix miles from Tolafis,
and purfued our voyage on the river all the way to Pcllo, which
is twelve miles from Tortula. Pcllo is a village of four or five
pcafants houfes ; from this place you fee the mountain Kittis,
famous for being the lafl: point where Maupertuis concluded liis
trigonometrical operations, and remarkable for nothing elfe.
I fhall here prefent the reader with Mr. Sw;ambergs obfervations
on the inaccuracy of Maupcrtuis*s meafurement.^' Thefe
obfervations art found in A report on a journey to Lapland,
undertaken at the* expence of the royal academy of fcicnccs at
See Maupci'tuiss Works, vol. iv. page 332.
Stockholm,
TRAVELS
Stockholm, to examine the local fituation and contiguous
grounds, where the French a^idemicians, in the y^ar 1/30, dctermined
the length of an arch of the meridian, as it crofles
the polar circle ; with general refledions on the figure of the
earth, and upon the neceflity of new meafurements to afeertain
cxadly the equation ; read at a public meeting of the faid
academy, on the 23d of Odober, 1/99, by Sons Swamberg.*
The aftronomcr, as well as the mathematician, are pcrfcdly
agreed, that the fphcrical form of the earths figure, contains
elements that mull be taken into account, if we would know'
from theory the prccifc quantity of the proceffion of the cqui-
noxes and the nutation of the earths axis. Thefc equations,
and others * in effed Icfs confidcrablc, but which in the courfc
of ages will be gradually developed, and will at laft become of
too much importance to be ncgleded, joined to the influence
wdiich a knowledge more or lefs perfed of the dimenfions of
our planet has on the accuracy of a calculation of all the phenomena
which are in any degree concerned in the efFeds of the
parallax, have determined the learned for almoft a century and
an half, to make it one of the principal objeds of their moft pro-
In order to falisfy ouifclves of the cxiftencc of fuch equations, we have only
to recoiled, that the c^irth not being a perfed fphere, and that the attradion of a
body, whatever be its figure, being the fum of the combined attraftions of
all its particles, it nccefTarily follows, th&t the force by which we are drawn to>
wards the fun will not vary exactly in the ratio of the fquafle of the difiances,
and that confcquently there will be a very flow motion in the line of the apfidcs,
which however infcnfible it may be in the fpace of fomc decades of years, is not
nn that account the lefs real.
found
raROUGH FINLAND. 377
found and pcrfcvering rcfearchcs. The j)hilofophcr, animated
by the principle which is charafteriftic of human rcafon, and
whfch uniformly tends to refer dll knowledge to one point, to
reduce it to fyftcm, and to colled the whole as into a focus,
whence he may at one view furvey the vaft field of natural
phenomena, perceives here a fource of dlfcovcrles for perfeding
to a great degree all the branches of real knowledge, and
will endeavour to accompllfli his objed, at whatever cxpencc
of labour and time it may coft him. But this intereft w'ill become
ftronger, in proportion as he finds the relation wdiich
thefe purfuits, of great importance in thcmfclves, all bear to a
qiicftion, the folution of which is ftill a fccrct ; namely, the
queftion that has been fo much agitated, refpeding the figure
of the cartlu The navigator has every moment cKcafion to
know what point he occupies on the furfacc of the globe. For
this purpofe, having obferved any one phenomenon in the hcavens,
(wx will fuppofe the diftance of the moons centre from
a particular ftar) he ought to be able to determine by calculation,
how this fame phenomenon would appear to the eye of
an obferver placed at the center of the earth. Confequcntly
into this calculation, the equation of the earths furface enters
as an element, which, not being known with fufficient accu-
racy, might eafily give occafion to an error bf fome fcconds
;
and aftronomers are not ignorant of what moment fuch an
error might prove. It was with a view to difembarrafs the me-
" thod of finding the longitude at fca from thole uncertainties,
VoL. I. 3 C that
378 TRAVELS
" that the board of longitude in London propofed a prize of five
.A
thoufand pounds (or thirty-three thouHind three hundred and
thirty-three rix dollars, more or Icfs) to whomfoever fhould
conftruft new tables of the moon, deduced from the principle
of univerfal gravitation ; the errors of which fliould be within
the limits of fifteen fcconds, more or Icfs. But the moft ferupulous
accuracy in the tables of the moon would completely
fail of its objeft, fo long as the tables on the effeds of the parallax
arc not proportionably cxadl. It was, among other motives,
chiefly to remedy this defed, that the moft celebrated
focietics all over Europe, and particularly the royal academy of
** Paris, after the attention of the learned had been called to this
objc<ft by Huygens, confidered it as one of the moft facred duties
they could perform for the good of humanity, to clear up
this difficult point in mathematical cofmography. For this purpofc
meafurements of degrees of the meridian have been planned
and executed at different times, and in different places ; which
w^hen properly examined, in fa<ft give a concurrent teftimony
that the earth is a fpheroid, oblate, or flattened towards the
poles; but differ however in this, that when you compare them
two and two, and fuppofe that the earth is generated by the
revolution of an ellipfis round its ftiort axis, you conftantly obtain
different values for the eccentricity of the generating
ellipfis. This is the true reafbn why philofbphers have fufpefted
** that this furtace, ift, is not a fpheroid, or other furface of the
** fccond order ; 2dly, that it is not a figure that is the refult of
revolutions
;
THROUGH FINLAND.
revolutions ; 3dly, that its t^o hcmifplicrcs on each fide of the
equator arc not alike. Aftrononicrs, ncvcrthclcfs, having ob-
Icfvcd in tile orbits of the hcavAily bodies a fcirt of prcdilciflion
for fines of the fecoiid order, and geometers having cllabliflicd
on the moft inconteftible evidence, that any fluid body whofe
furface is of the feefond order, may remain in c<|uilibrio, when
the particles of which it is compofed attrad in the reciprocal
ratio of the fquare of the diflances, the learned have thousilit
that they were not warranted by reafons fldiicicntly ftrong to
abandon the cllipticity of the revolution ; having due regard to
the fmallncfsof the errors in the executed mcarureinents which
might very well give occafion to all the dlvcriity of the rcfults.
But to be convinced how cautious we ought to be before we
decide in matters of this fort, let us rccollcA the mcafurements
executed by Jean Dominique Caflini over the furface of France,
which at firft fight feemed to prove tliat tlic earth, far from
being oblate tow^ards the poles, was rather .i little raifed or
elevated. This refult, fo much the more ftriking, that it by
no means agreed cither with the theory of centrifugal force
advanced by Huygens, or with the principle of univerfal gravltation
eftablifhed by Newton, having undergone a more rigorous
invclligation by geometers, they foon perceived, that not
having pcrfedly feized the univcrfality of .the principle, they
had confidcrcd as contrary what was in faft one of its moft
immediate confcquenccs : and thus what they luppofed w^as to
** overthrow the fiffl: foundation of the fyftcm of attradion bc-
3 C -2 came
3^0 TRAVELS
came its firmeft fupport; inafmjuch as the attradion of the
Pyrenees, which by their vicinity produced a deviation in the
plumb-line, was the caufc of the error. But to place in a'ftill
ftronger light the reafons that militate in favour of furfaccs of
the fecond order, I imagined it would not be deemed foreign
to our objedt, if I fubjoined here fome gAicral rcflcdlions con-
ceming the devrelopemcnt of any fundlions whatever in ferics.
In this view, let u be any fundtion of x, y, z, a, h, &c. the
queftion is to devclopc in a given fucceffion in reference to the
powers of a, h, &c, and be what we fuppofe becomes when
it comprehends a, h, &c = o.
Farther, let = U X Aj
^
X a'A^^ X <jAg
^
X &c,
X ^ Apj X Aj
j
X X &c,
X JA^
2
^^
X X &c,
or the term whofc co-cfficient ab is reprefented by A , we then
rf
Xn
know that A = ( V
m.n \ . m /
Now, to ftiew the application of it to the prefent queftion,
let us fuppofe that u o is the equation which without any
" approximation reprefents the furface of the earth ; but fmcc
we learn from all the known meafurements of degrees of the
" meridian, that whatever be the figure of the earth, it docs not
differ
THROUGH FINLAND. 3 '"I
differ fcnfibly from that of a fphcre, the equation u o w ill
neccfTarily contain one or more of thofc fniall quantities a, b,
&(I fb affccflcd, that it w'c fuppwlc them o, the remaining
equation n 0 will be that of a fphcre, whc^c dimcnlions arc

c<iual to thofc of the earth ; whence it will follow that u will

be the firft term of our developed fcrics, as we have juft faicL
Befldcs, if we except flA
^^
, and bhoA, all the other terms
a"b' may be difregarded on account of the fmallncfs of
the quantities a, b, Sec. ; confequcntly the furface of our globe
w ill be reprefented by the equation LT x Aj
^
X bA^^
^
= 0.
" The w'hole then comes to this, to know what is the form of
the fundlions A^
^
and A^ j, which being fuppofed of the fe-
cond order, the equation u = o will reprefent an cllipfoid,
vvhofe eccentricities of the equator, and of the meridian w hich
pafTcs through the great axis of the equator, will depend on the
quantities a, b, &c. In rcfpcct of the figure of revolution, it
is very clear that then the quantity a will be nearly equal to b,
or what is the fame thing, if we make ~ b x h, the quantity
u will be very fmall ; whence it follows that the equation
u = 0, may be reprefented by this 0 =: U X bA^^
^
. In fliort,
there is no rcafon to fear that the difregarded quantities fhould
" ever prove conftderable enough to produce any error of confe-
quence, as difficulties which in all probability we fhall never be
able fully to fufimount, will for ever prevent our prccifcly know-
inp;
382 TRAVELS
ing the value of the quantities <?, b, &c., and there is confequently
in the uncertainty of the value of thofe terms the germ
of errors which would greatly exceed thofe which might 'arife
fi<;m the omiflion of the other terms a'b K . In all events,
/ii.n
U being already known, and are quantities which
ought to be firft determined, whether it lliould be afterwards
judged ncceffary to carry the approximation farther or not.
In one wwd, wx ought, in all our calculations, which clcpend
on the figure of the earth, to operate precifely as in our
calculations of the motion of the heavenly bodies, whofc orbits
we firft fuppofc circular, then elliptical, and laft of all we apply
to the former fo corredled, the fmall equations which con-
tain the quantities in which the ellipfes themfelves arc dcfi-
'' cient. Such arc the reafons entertained by the aftronomers of
all Europe for unanimoufly infiftlng on the ncceflity of hew
mcafurements, executed with all poffible care, with the afliftaiice
of the moft perfed inftruments, and according to the moft
approved methods of obferving that the prefent age can fup-
ply. Now, the French aftronomers have Juft finiflied the conftruftion
of a fuite of triangles, w hich as they pafs through
France extend from Dunkirk all the way to Barcelona, a fpacc
which forms an arch of the meridian 9^ 39", or uy.72, accord-

ing to the decimal fyftem. Nothing therefore could be more in-

" terefting to all fueh as labour for the advancement of aftronomy
and geography, than to hear that a committee has been ap-
pointed
THROUGH nNLAND. 3S3
,
>
pointed by government to determine the length of an arch of
the meridian comprehended between the parallel of the North
Cape and tiiat of Uptlad, or, at,lcaft, to mcafure two or three
degrees taken in. the vicinity of the polar circle. In tlie mce.n
time the academy of fcicnce.s thought it might not be improj)cr
to fend fome one of its members to Tornea, in order to inform
himiclf as to the local circumftances of the grounds vvhicli, in
173(>, were cholcn by the French miithcmaticirins as lixed
points, and the execution of this plan was Intruftcd to me. 1
am now to ;lvc an account of the remarks wliich I was cnablcd
to make on the fpot in regard to this fubjed.
The country in the neighbourhood of Tornea is extremely
flat; towards the north, however, and in that quarter only, at
the dlftancc of eight leagues, more or Icfs, there commences a
chain of mountains which extends all the way to Klttifvaza,
near the finall village of Pello, from whence it becomes again
** flat to the diftance of fomc leagues beyond Kengis, which is
twelve leagues north from Pcllo. In the whole of thofe mountains
there is not one of any confidcrablc magnitude : Avafaxa,
which I confider of a mean fize, rifes only to the height of lix
hundred and fix feet above the level of the river. From this it
follows, that no one of thofe mountains, confidered by itfclf,
could produce a fcnfible deviation in the plumb-line, unlefs it
were very near one of the points where they determined the
amplitude of the arch of the meridian, a circumftancc which
has no place here. It remains then to know what might be tlic
efted
384 TRAVELS
cfFcd of their united attractions : but this even muft have been
*' very infenfiblc ; fmce, according to the higiieft eftimatc admif-
fiblc, the fum of all the mountains from which any effcCl might
be fufpcCled, cannot be greater than a cubic -league. Now this
mafs being fuppoted of a denfity double the mean denfity of the
earth, and its center of attraction at five leagues diftance from
Kittifvaza, and ten from Tomea, could not pro^ce on the
plumb-line a greater deviation than o".3438 at Kittifvaza, and
o".ozC>Q at Tornca ; whence it follows, that the total effeCt of
this alteration could have been only o".4298, ami confequently
" the correction which ought to be made in the length of a dc-
gree of the meridian, fuch as has been meafured by the French
academicians, would be only 0".3575 to be added inftcad of a
hundred toifes, w'hich it has been fuppofed ought to be deduCted.
1 believe, then, I may affirm, that on my part there can be no
fufpicion of an error as to this fubjeCt, and that there is truly
fame error in the meafurement of 1 736 ; the caufc of this may
be fairly attributed to a defcCl in the fextant or quadrant, or
perhaps, which is no lels probable, to fome uncertainty in the
bafe. Upon the whole, in order to fettle all thofc doubtful
circumftances, it feems abfolutcly nccelTary that this mcafurc-
ment fhould be wholly executed anew.
To all this, give me leave to add one remark, which I had
occafion to make at Tornca, and which, I imagine, well merits
the attention of the learned.
'' We know that the French aflronomers determined, at each
Ration,
THROUGH FINLAND.
" ftation, the elevation or depfeflion of the other fignals in rcla-
tion to.thclr horizon. I meafured all thofe angles, and what
furprifed me a good deal was, that I found them always a little
larger than they hav*; been determined in the figure of the earth.
The inftrument I employed in my operation was a whole circle
ot fourteen inches and tvvo-thirds diameter, graduated at each
" minute : ncvcrthclefs, I believe, that by the help of an eftimate,
one may aflure himfclf that he is not deceived by more than
ten, or at moft fifteen fcconds. A complete defeription of this
inftrument may be fecn in the memoirs of the academy of
 fcicnccs, at Stockholm, for the year 20th and following
" pages. The firft fufpicion that ftruck my mind, upon obferv-
ing this difference, was, that it might arife from the point zero
in that circle. This I examined on the fpot, and found it wrong
l' 30". I continued the fame examination for fevcral fucccflivc
days after I got to Tornca ; and taking the mean of my obfer-
,
vations on terreftrial objects, as well as meridian heights of the
fun, I obferved that l' 24" ought to be deduced from all the
obfervations of heights, a circumftancc which at the fame time
proves that the inflrument had fuffered no injury in travelling.
Individuals will make what remarks they pleafe on my obfer-
vations ; I here fubjoin them exadly as they were made.
Vor.. I. Place
386 TRAVELS
Place of Obfer- Obfervations before Obfervations ObferviTions of Difference.
vat ion. Corredion. corrected. the French.
' P = + 8' 3,5" " + r 11" 4- 4' 50" + 2* 21"
Avasaxa. 1 C = 11' 0" 12' 24" = 14' 15" + r 5"
1 IG' 50" 18' 14" 2(y 20" 2' 6"
[ H = 3' 45" S' 9"
1
8' 0" 2' 5'
Huitapori.
j
r = 15' 30" 16' 54" 19' 0" -f 2' 6"
[ A = + 0' 15" + 6' 51" + 5' 0" + V 5f
Horrisankero. -f A = + 2' 0" 4- 0' 3G" .+ 0' 0" 4- 0' 36"
[ P = + I P 10" ' 4- I'i' 46" + 11' 50" 1 -1- O' 56"
K;ikamavara.
r = 18' 47"
[ C = 2' 50"
20' 11" 4' 14"
22' 50" 4' 45"
4-
+
2' 39"
0' 31"
Stlemivara. P = f 21' 30" 4- 2(y 6" + 18' 30 ' f P 36 '
Kittisvara. P = + 26' 0"
j
4- 24' 36" + 22' 30" + 2' 6'
What may be the caufe of this difference I will not take it
upon me to fay ; I am inclined however to believe, that it has
its origin in the power, more or lefs confiderable, which our
atmofphcre polTcfles of refrafting the rays of light ; at lead wc
cannot attribute it entirely to an error of the inftrument, fincc
an inequality of 2' 5" is altogether impofliblc in fo fmall an angle
as 5' (/ (See Hat Avafaxa), the more fo that in the angle C
at Kakamavara, which is nearly of the fame quantity, the dif-
fcrcnce is only 0' 3J". On the contrary, it appears, from the
theory of refradion, that thefe angles ought not to appear the
 fame at different heights of the thermometer or barometer.
Such are Mr. Swambergs remarks on that important fubjed,
which I hope the reader will not blame me for inferting in the
courfe of thefe travels. I fliall now proceed ,jvith the account of
rny journey.
From
THROUGH FINLAND. :>87
From Pello to Karclis ii eighteen Englifli miles, a pafTage which '
was wholly performed againft the current by the vigorous arms of
our Finlandifti Laplanders, who ^aftoniflied us by the addrefs as
well as the ftrength they difplayed, In the progrefs of this moll laborious
navigation.
We obferved all along the river a particular mode, cpite new'
to me, of obtaining the eggs oi an atpatlc bird, w hich is named
mergus merganfor by Linnreus. The native s are very fond of the
eggs of this bird, which has very finguhii habits for one of this
defeription. Whether it is from a kiiiti of indolence, or a defirc
of concealing its eggs from birds of prey, it never builds a ncll.
The nell of aquatics in general, feems to be of no ufe but that of
holding the eggs ; for their young take to the water the moment
they are out of the Ihcll, and acquire* their food in their owm element.
The mergus merganfor, inftead of building a fmall neft
like the ducks, on the banks, or among the reeds or bullies, chufes
to lay her eggs in the trunk of an old tree, in which time, or the
hand of man, has made fuch an excavation, as Ihc can conveniently
enter. The perfon that w^aylays the bird for her eggs, places
againft a fir or pine tree fomewhere near the bank of the river,
a decayed trunk, with a hole in its middle : the bird enters, and
lays her eggs in it
:
prcfcntly the peafant comes, and takes away
the eggs, leaving, how ever, one or two. The animal returns, and
finding but a fingle egg, lays tw'o or three more, which the man
purloins in the fame manner : the bird Hill returns, and, as If flic
had forgot the eggs Ihe had laid, proceeds once more to complete
3 D 2 the
388 TRAVELS
the number flic intended. She is defrauded of her eggs as before,
and continues repeating the fame procefs four five times, when
the man, w ho has by this time gathered perhaps a fcore of eggs
from the fame neft, fuft'ers her to lay the laft for the increafe of
her family. As foon as the eggs arc hatched, the mother takes the
chicks gently in her bill, carries and lays them down at the foot
of the tree, where flic teaches them the w^ay to the river, in which
they inftantly fwim with an aftcmifliing facility.
From Kardis to Kengis is a diftance of fifteen miles, which is
accompllflied with great fatigue, on account of continued catarads
and the violent current of the river. Bcfidcs the danger of the
w ater-falls, we were much molefted by a fpccics of gnat, a circumftance
which, in comparifon of what were to experience
afterwards, perhaps docs not deferve to be noticed in this place.
Our fervants began to murmur and complain of the cxccfs of
their hardftiips, of the extravagance of our travels: they thought
it extremely foolifti to fuffer and hazard fo much in a country
where one does not meet with any of the enjoyments of life, not
even with a bottle ol wine, or fo much as an alchoufo : in fliort
they made us undcrlland that the country contained nothing in
the fmalleft degree intcrefting to them, and that their only wifli
was to return. We endeavoured to condud ourfclvcs like good
officers ; but though we fot them an example of perfed fobriety,
and fliared with tHcm the fame bread and dried meat, as well as
the fame trouble and hardfhips, it was impoffible to rccal them to
good humour; nor could they ever forget that thcy^werc ftill
about
THROUGH FINLAND. 389
about lour hundrecl Ehglifli miles from the laft ftage of our intended
progrefs hi the North.
Our arrival at Kengis, however, conciliated them a little. We
met here an infpcelor of the mines, who received us with much
civility, and fupplied us with a plentiful board and lodging. The
objed' of this gentlemans rcfidencc in this country was to encourage
and promote the ercdlon of foundcrics, of which he had conceived
the moft fanguine hopes, but which had been abandoned
and relumed at different times, according to the profpeds of tlie
adventurers. He had invited lettlers from the North, formed a
fpecics of colony, opened a new' branch of traffic, and w Ithin thclc
few years had benefited this part of Lapland by the produce of
the mines. He lived here happily enough, having, at a confidcrable
cxpcnce, been able to procure himfclf all the convcnicncics
of life. He had turned fomc land in the vicinity of his honfc into
rheadow ground, and planted an eminence hard by with Italian
poplars, which leemed aftoniflied to find themfclvcs in thole hyperborean
regions. When Maupertuis paffed by Kengis on his w ay
to the heart of Laphivd, in order to vifit a ftone w 1th fome perhaps
accidental impreflion upon it, which he chufes to denominate the
moft ancient infcriptlon in the univerlc, there feems to have been
no infpeftor of foundcrics here, as he then Ywctl at the houfc of a
clergyman. He calls Kengis a mifcrablc place.^ We were not
tempted to vifit this monument ; the people of the country feemed
to have no tradition concerning it, nor did our curiofity lie greatly
See'Maiipertuiss Travels, from page 179 to 209 .
in
^ TRAVELS
in this department: bcfidcs, we were perfuaded that Maupertuis
had, from a fort of oftentation, bcftowxd an importance on
an objed wdiich it was not worth the trouble of going to fee.
The Iluflians had penetrated as far as Kengis,
In the courfe of this journey we collcdled the following plants
in flower
:
Caeraftium vifeofum Pinguicula vulgaris
Cacraflium alpinum Myrica gale
Among the infers were the follow ing
:
Corambyx mordax
Corambyx inquifitor
Chryfomcla quadripundata
Chryfomela coccinca
Chryfomcla Lapponica
Chryfomcla ienca
Leptura intcrrogationlj
Cantharis pcftinicornl?
Papilio antiopa
Cicindela reparia
Silpha atrata
Tineas variac
* The leptura is very common in this country, and generally lies concealed in
the corol of the Trollius Europaus, Linn. Almoft each flower had a leptura, and
often two, in the attitude of generation.
CHAPTER
J IIROUGH FINLAND. V)^
CHAPTER XXX.
S/iiy at Krnj^iSEntertaifwicfit ghni hy the h/fpeSiorThe Bear-
Dance a veryfattgumgfort of AmufemeiitVUit fromfame young
TFomen of the Nelghhourhood ; among them one, a Native of Kolhire,
of a furprifing Degree of bodily StrengthSeparation of the
TravellersThe Author and another Gentleman alone proceed
NorthwardGeographical Notice on the Rher Tornca.
^I
"^HE infpeftor of the foundcrics at Kcngk fpured no expcncc
^ that could contribute to render our flay at this place agreeable
to us. He thought nothing in his houfe too coftly for our
entertainment : he aflcmblcd the pcafants to flicw us their dancing
and the genius of their mufic ; and on Sunday he treated our
party.with punch and liqueurs in a handfbmc little tent, which he
had crefted on a fmali eminence under his Italian |X)plars.
Among the different dances exhibited by the pcafants on this
occafion, there was one wiiich feemed particularly curious ; it is
called, in the language of the country, tlte hears-dance, A jKafant
refts his hands upon the ground, and at the fame time fupports
himfclf on his legs, fo as to keep his body in a horizontal
pofition, like the bear, or any other animal, when it walks on all
fours.
TRAVELS
lours. Remaining conftantly in the 'fame attitude, he begins to
dance, and by his leaps and jumps, Rudies to keep time with the
1 c
niufic, which is extremely gothic, and which the reader w ill find
inferted in the Appendix. The execution of this dance is attended
with great labour and fatigue, infbmuch that it is very difficult
for the peafant to go on with it above three or four minutes,
without falling into the moft violent perfpiration. It is
however a fort of excrcifc which is good for ftrengthening the
mufcles of the arms, and therefore highly ufcful to the natives of
this country, whofe laborious exertions in afeending the cataracH.^)
in fummer require very great vigour and mufcular power. Ad
drefs and bodily ftrength are the qualities in the higheft repute
among the pcafantry in this part of Weftrobothnia; and bcfides
this dance, they have other cxercifes which demand a furprifing
degree of aftivity and firmnefs in their limbs.
While w e fat in our tent on the fummit of the hill, a number
of Finlandifli girls, induced by curiofity to fee us, furrounded the
tent. Wc foon recommended ourfclves to their acquaintance,
and invited the handfomeft of them to enter the tent ; an invitation
which they were not fliy of accepting. We offered them
wiiu-, but they difliked it
;
punch, but they had no greater rclifli
for it : wc ordered them beer, but they could as little drink this.
At length wc found out that thofc girls were accuftomed to no
other beverage than milk and water. There was apaong them a
native of Kollare, wdio merited a more than ordiq^^ry Ihare of our
attention, and who immediately attrafted our notice by her ftature,
THROUGH FINLAND, 393
turc, her gaiety, and by a lliarp and decided manner in her dc- ,
portment. She had fuch ftrqngth of arms, that when we were
difpofed to toy witfi her, and feek perhaps to be a little too familiar,
ihc would rcpulfc us with a*blow that forced us back four
or five paces. Her limbs were a6livc and agile, flic was remarkably
tall, and in fliort would have been a very fine w^oman, had
not a long waift w ith very fliort petticoats, disfigured her perfon.
Her face was not extremely delicate, but her features were well
formed ; her hair chefnut, her eyes lively, and her complexion full
of health and vigour. She was drefled entirely in white of rather
a fine linen cloth, which flic had probably bought at Tornca of
fome travelling merchant ; all her companions wxrc perfectly clean,
and every thing upon them was either new or recently w^afticd.
. We fpent about an hour in the company of thefe girls, all
which time we kept conftantly talking without underftanding
(jach* other : we exchanged many heavy blows, enough to make
one half ferious ; but this is a kind of afFeftionatc carefs among
pcafants in all parts of the wwld. The girl of Kollare was fo
ftrong, and made fuch impreflion wdth her Herculean arm, that
flic had driven us to a man almoft off the field. Our interpreter
hinted to us that we muft take care how we offended this young
woman, as flie was to give us lodging at Kollare, a place muft
pafs on our route. She fecnied pleafed when (lie learned that we
fliould be at her houfe next day, and promiftd that flic would
do every thing in her powxr to have her dwelling comfortable for
us at our arrival.
VoL. 1.
"
3 E This
394 TRAVEtS
This day, which was Sunday, paiTcd in mirth and fcftivity.
The inQjcdor, to (hew the great ajniability of his charader, gave
us a Swcdifli fong and a toaft to each glafs of punch, and it was
in vain to decline filling a burhper. At midnight wc quitted this
tent to obferve, on a more elevated ground, the height of the fun
as ufual ; but on this occafion the company was by no means
unanimous ; not as to the funs elevation alone, one perfon maintaining
he faw two, and others, equally confident and inebriated,
that they faw no fewer than four. Inftcad, however, of difeuffing
the merits of the quellion with intemperate warmth, though
held to be a matter of ferious importance, w'e conduded ourfclvcs
with more prudence than the learned perhaps might have
done on a fubjed of Icfs magnitude ; for we relblved to go to
flcep, and adjourn the fubverjton of the planetary fyftem till tlie
next morning. In Ihort, on the night following, at the fame hour,
we were pcrfcdly agreed both as to the height and mimber offuns.
If Sunday had pafTcd in all the plcafures of convivial enjoyment,
Monday, the period fixed for our departure, was fo much
the more fad and melancholy. Three of our fiiends took leave
of us : Mr. Bellotti, Mr. Julin, and Dr. Deutfeh would not, and
indeed, for particular reafons, could not, expole thcmfelvcs to the
dangers of our expedition, and chofc to return to Tornca and
Uleaborg. Our plan of travels received fuch a fcverc iliock by
their departure, as nothing but the mod determined refolution
could refill. Friendfhip and the infection of example made us
hefitate for fome time as to the propriety of perfifting in our enterprife
;
'mtaoum Finland.
t^rprifc; but ouf pride could not digeft the humiliating idea of
returning to Uleaborg, tm the great diverfion of our friends, who*
would never hav done rallying us on the fubjed, or of boafting
of,their fagfc counfels, and the tyith of their predidions. Colonel
Skioldebrand, with his fervant, remained alone with me : his purpofe
continued unftiakcn, for his ardour was not inferior to my
own. He wmld not be difeouraged by any difficulties in purfuing
the objedl he had propofed to himfclf ; and I was no lefs
decided as to the execution of my projeft. I muft confefs that
the idea of being the firft Italian that had ever reached the mod
northern point of Europe, was a very powerful incentive to my
exertions.
Before quitting Kengis, I fliall make a few geographical remarks
on the river Tornca, and endeavour to give, in fomc degree, a
clear idea of the nature and courfc of that river, concerning which
there is much confufion and error in all the maps, and even in
the Swcdifti accounts themfelves.
The river Tornea proceeds from a lake called Tornca Trafk, as
its fource. This lake is fituated among the mountains which fcparate
Norwegian from Swxdifh Lapland. From that lake the
river alfo takes its name. It paffes in its courfc near Kengis,
where it forms two cataradls, nearly forty feet high. It then approaches
the towm of Upper Tornea, twifts round the little ifland
of Swenfar, on which the town of Tornca is fituated, and laft of
all it makes the ifland of Bjdrkon, on which ftands the chqrch of
Lower Tomed. About a mile below Kengis, the waters of the
river
river receive a confidcrab# a^ginentation by their junfliofh with
another river, which has its fburcc among a number of lakes and
marfhes higher up than Enontckis, and bears thc-nanic of Muonic,
till it lofcs itlelf in its union with the Tornca. The latter, ejiriched
by the Muonio, becomes of a very confidcrable fizc on its
way to the fca, as it is ftill farther incrcafcd by the tributary
ftreams of fome rivulets which iflue from the lakes and marflies in
its vicinity, and at laft it empties itfclf into the gulf of }3othnla.
Near Kengis the banks of this river arc confidcrably llecpcr
than about Upper 'I'ornea, and confift partly of a reddifli feltjpar
and partly of Hates of a bJackifli colour, w hofc angles Hand edgew'ays,
with an inclination to the (buth.
The river Tornca is in general fubjedl to three inundations
;
namely, one in fpring, caufed by the dlffolutlon of the ice and
fnow on the montalns ; the fecond in fummer, ow ing to fuddeu
and violent falls of rain ; and the third in autumn, before the fetting
ill of the froft. The greateft breadth of this river, when its
waters are of a mean height, is nine hundred, and its common
breadth five hundred yards: its greateft depth is ten yards, and
its lowcft flioal from two to five feet. In winter It is* frozen in
its w hole extent, and the thicknefs of the ice is from five to fometimes
eight feet.
END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
T. Gillcl, rriiiier, Salift)ury-fqii3rc.

12 171
^[di'atic ^otietp nil
Author JoiiHph.
Title t:irou,jii -we
Call No. -i . 3 3. 4 . 17 .3 . t
Date of Issue I^siifU to
4k
^C
}'
(
/m
A

travels!
THROUGH
SWEDEN,! FINLAND, j AND LAPLAND.
TO THE
IN
THE YEARS 1798 AND 1799.
/
CONTENTS;
VOL. II.
CHAPTER T.
Departure froyn KengisA heavy Shower of RainTajfage hy the
CataractsArrival at KoUareSmok^ufecl in the lioufes for the
Purpofe ofkeeping off the numherlefs hiftGsCotmtry near Kollare
Meet with a nioft Jhilful BoatmanDangers and Difficulties
fiinnoimted under his ConductMore of the CataractsDhe Boats
drawn for a conftderahle Diflance over the Land through a Wood
Emharraffment canfed hy the hoggy Ground in the IVoodT.lie
Catara6f of Muonio kofki : a fuccefsful Attempt to defeend this Fall
in a Boat, , r*
Page
CHAPTER II.
Afniall Colony of Finlanders between^ Kollare and Muoniomfca
Charming Country around that Colony-Rules of Culoni^ation oh^
Jerved in LaplandFhe Village of MuonionifeaVhe Farjon of
the ParijhThe Inhabitants of this Diflril: their Manners and
Mode of Life, I'i
CHAPTER III.
Excurfion from Muonionifea to Mount Palias^ and Keimio-Tundwi
Rivers Muonio and JeresPleafing Scenery about the latterDifferent
Terms of the Finlanders for a Mountain^ according to its
peculiar Quality-^Profpei from Keimio-TunduriMount Pallas
inacceffibleFace of the CountrySnow onyMount Pallas^ and
Ice on a LakeSome 0hje6ls in Natural Hiftory^olleLled* 2 2
a 2 CHAP.
IV CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
Departure from Muoniorufca, July the jirftExcejfive HeatTravel
hy^lghty[ Settlement called PalLijovenioProper Boundary of
LaplandMifiake of Travellers and Geographers concerning Lap^
landFace of the Country betvcecn Muonlomjca and Pallajovenio,
and thence to KauiokeinoThe/mail Rivers of the Country oJJ'er
more Novelty than the greater onesDifficulties arifmg fromJhaU
low WaterThe Reindeer Mofs (Lichen rangiferinus, Linn.)
covering the whole Surface cf the Ground: Vegetatum near it
Arrival at LappajerviMujquetoes exceedingly trouhkjomeFires
and Smoke the mojl ejfedlual PrnteRion againjl them--*Some Lapland
FijhermenTheir HabitationsA Night paffid with tlnje
People^ and Accommodation afforded.
CHAPTER V.
Lake of Pallajervi, and the JJland of KintafariStay on this IJland:
Occupations and Amu/emenisThe Sea Swallow (Sterna Htrimdo^
Lin.): Sagacity of tinfe Birdsy and their Utility to Fijhermen
Some Laplanders engagedfor the Profecution of the Journey/)<?-
farture from KintafariAfmall River called ReJUjokiDefeription
of the Laplanders that were to attend the AuthorTheir want
of CleanlinefsThe Finlanders difmijffedProceed on Foot with
the LaplandersTemper and Difpojitmi of thefe PeopleWeather
extremely hot
:
great Inconvenience thence arifingCome to a Lake
called Kervijerviy which they crofs in Boats,
CHAPTER VI.
The Plant Angelica^ accounted delicious Food by the Laplanders
:
its Jaliitary QualitiesThe Molejlation from the Mujquetoes augmented
Arrive at the river PepojovaiviMeet with Jome Lapland
Fijhermen^ and two ChildrenManners of thefe PeopleBehaviour
of the Childrpnpf-The Laplanders cook their Supper : their
Mode of EatingSafpicion they entertain of thefuppofed Emif-
Juries of Government-^The Miffionaries in LaplandNotions of
the
CONTENTS. y
Page
the Laplanders concerning Religion and civil InJliiutio?isT/jeir
unfocial way of LivingIncrea/e of Wolves in Lapland during late
1 'carsJourney purfued in Boats^ on the River Pepojovaivi 4 ()
CHAFfER VIL
Paffhge on the River PepojovaiviManner of Pifhing ufed hy the Laplanders
The River Pepojovaivi forming feveral Lakes during its
Courfe^ and c?nptying itfelf into the River 4den^ near Kauiokeino
Imnicnfc (Quantity of Fiji) in ihofe LakesSport of Shooting on the
RiverDifferent Species of BirdsSomefarther CijaraderiJlics of
the waJidermg LaplandersArrival at^ KauiokeinoSchoolmajlcr
of this PlaceLaplandiflj SingingT^ Mujic of this Country Go
CHAPTER VIII.
Siiiuiiion fKauttkiinoBoundary between the Swedijh and Danijl)
TerritoriesAn hfiance of juji Rcafoning on a political Topic
Baron Hermeli/ds Maps of Sweden^ Finland, and LaplandDifficulty
of obtaining good Maps of thofe Countries : thofe which cxifl
arefar from being accurateDiverfity of Names given to thefame
Places, and confufion occafwned by this CircumjianceAnecdotes of
the Schoolmafler of KautokeinoDflriLl or Pariflo of Kauiokeino
Population afid InhabitantsWandering Laplanders, and thofe that
havefixed HabitationsTheir Mode of LifeCbafq of the wild
Rein-deerAnnual Fair at Kautokeino, and Traffic carried on
Cattle and SheepLow Eflimation in which the latter are held
Departurefrom KautokeinoState of the Weather and the Thermoviclcr
Journey purfued in BoatsThe River AlienBeautiful
SceneryMufquctocs, . ~ 69
CHAPTER IX.
Some refrcfhing Springs of Water ^Farther Account ofthe River Alien
CafarablsRapidity of the River infome Phec^ and quick Progrefs
of the BoatsPlenty of Fifh in the River AlinThe Church
of MafMufquetoesAfmall River called KemsjokiA Chain
8 of
vi CONTENTS.
of Moimtalns to be CrojfcdDull and melancholy Appearance of the
CountrySnow on the Mountains in the Midji of SummerArrive
at a folitary Cabin in a WoodWar with the Mufquetoes
Change of Scenery in defeending from the MountainsRegain the
River Alten^ and meet with a Salmon FifherPafs another River^
and purfue our JourneyLofe our Way^ and at lajl reach Alien-
Guard _ .
CHAPTER X.
Situation of Alten-GaardProfpefl to the Frozen or Icy OceanBathe
in this SeaInhabitants of Alten-Gaard ; their HofpitalityPlan
for proceeding to the North Cape by WaterDeparturefrom Alten-
GaardPafs near Mount Himellar, or Heaven-man ; Waterfalls
from this MountainBeautiful SceneryMeet with the Habitation
of a Lapland Family^ butfind the Houfe defertedVijit another Hut
Condition of the Laplanders on this CoaftTheir Mode of Lifcj
and happy SimplicityAJfcding Family-fceneFall in with fome
wandering or mountain LaplandersTheir Tents and Premifes deferibed
A Herd of Rein-deerMiferable Appearance of thefe Animals
Their great Sufferingsfrom the Heat and the Flics, efpecially
the (HJlrus Tarandi, Linn*Rein-deer MilkPafs the Whaal
Sund, or Sound of WhalesHavefund, afingle Houfe, in a difmal
SituationAppearance of Nature as you approach the North Cape
Mageron, or Bare IfandArrive at the Nor rii CapeDefeription
of this Promontory
CHAPTER XL
A Grotto among the Rocks of the CapeRocks, of which the North
Cape is compofed, chiefly GraniteBirdsfeen near that CapeReturn
from the North CapeA different Route to Alton from the one
taken beforeIfland of Maafo, and its InhabitantsGreat Hofpitality
and AttentionAdysantage ofbeing miflaken for a Prince in travelling
A Place c^d HammerfeflHwalmyfling, a Peninfula
Account of an Englifi Frigate coming as far as Hammerfefl fome
CONTENTS. vii
Pflge
Years agoArrive again at AlienExcurjton to Telwig^ a great
FifltmarketEmbark on the River AltcfiSingnlar Combination
of three Catara6tsAttempt to ajeend in the Boats one of thefe
IVaterfallsReafons for this Adventure^Itfails^ and the TraveU
lers are obliged to proceed on Foot over the MountainsDifference
of Temperature in the AirRegain the River^ and meet the Laplanders
of KautokeinoReach Kautokeino ; thence to Enontekis
Difficulty of the Journey to the latter Placel\vo EngUfh Travel^
lers at Enontekis : their MemorandumsThe Clergyman of Enontekis
Extracts from a manufeript Account^ written by that Clergy^
man^ refpeding the Parifh of Enontekis : its Population^ Chunh^
Inhabitants^ Colonics^ Manners^ and natural Productions ; among
the Latter fome Plants and Birds^ and Remarks on the. Difeajes rf
the Rein-deerJourney from Enontekis to Tornea and U/eaborg
Couchifton. 112
GENERAL REMARKS ON LAPLAND.
SECT. I. Offome Writers who have given Accounts of hapKuuf
efpecially the Mffionary Canute Leems

The Author s dews in

this part of the IV^rk explained 137
SECT. II. Of the Origin of the Jjaplanders ~ 143
SECT. III. Of the Liinguage of the Laplanders 147
SECT. IV. Of the exterior Appearance and bodily Ccnflituiion of the
LaplandersTheir Habits and Mode of life'Jheir rchglous
and moral Charalter 101
SICCT. V. Of the Drefs of the Laplanders^ both Male and Female l(io
SECT. VL Of the Habitations of the Laplanders^ and their domeflic
Arrangements 1/1
SECT. VII. Of the Manner in vohich the Laphpidp's prepare their
RedsPrecaution ufed againjl the Mufquetoes 1 79
SECT. VIII, Of the Diet of the Laplanders and Jkir Cookery J82
SECT, IX. Houfehold Furniture of the Laplanders 1 QO
SICCT.
viii CONTENTS.
Page
SECT. X. Of the Rein-deer^ the Tame as well as the Wild ; Treatment
of tame Rein-deer, and the varions Advantages which the
Laplander derives from themIn this Setlion mention is made, intidentally,
of the Time about the JVinter Soljiice, when the Sun
never rifes above the Horizon ; and about the Summer Soljlice,
when it ?ievrJets, 1 g2
SECT. XIr Of the Mode of harneffnig the Rein-deer, and the
different Sledges that are ufed by the LaplandersThe Manner of
Travelling with Rein-deer and Sledges 202
SECT. XII. Of the Wandering Laplanders and their Migrations 2 OS
SECT. XIII. Of the Quadrap'^ds and Birds in LapLmd 212
SECT. XIV. Of the Amphibious Animals, the Fijhes and Fijheries 230
SECT. XV. Of the Injclls and Tejlaceous Animals of Lapland 245
SECT. XVI, Of fjapland Botany 257
SEC1\ XVII. Of Minerals _ _ _ 264
SECT. XVI II. Of the Manufadui'es of Lapland 27 y
SECT. XIX. Offme particular Cuftoms among the luaphmders 28,1
SECT. XX. Of Lapland Courtjhip and Marriages 284
SECT. XXI. Of Sports and Amufements 288
SECT. XXII. Of the Difeafes to which the Laplanders are fiilje
l, and the Remedies they ufeOf their Funerals 200
SECT XXII I. Of the Gods and Goddeffes which the Laplanders
adored before the hitroduffion of Chriftianily 29
1
SECT. XXIV. Of ihe^ Sacriffees offered by the Laplanders to their
Deities 301
SliCl\ XXV. Of the Magic Art pra6tifed by the Laplanders
:
Runic-DrumGanic FliesJuoigeand Noaaid 30/
SECT, XXVI. Of the Jirong Attachment of the Laplanders to
their Native Country 313
SECT. XXVII. Some Obfervalions relative to the Climate and
Natural Hijlory of La^Jumd 317
APPENDIX : containi^ Specimens of Lapland Muftc^ and a Diary
of the Authors Journey from Stockholm to Uleaborg ; thence to the
North Capey and back again 323
TRAVELS
T RAVEL S
THROUCH LAPLAND.
TRAVELS
THROUGH
LAPLAND.
CHAPTE'R I.
Departtirefrom KenglsA heavy Shower of RainVaffage by the
CataradisArrival at KollareSmoke ufcd in the Honfcs for the
Pnrpofe of keeping off the numberlefs InfedhCountry near Kollare
Meet with a mifl Jhlftd BoatmanDangers and Difficulties
furmounted under his CondudtMore of the Catara^isThe Boats
drawn for a confiderahle Difiance over the Land through a Wood
EmbarraJJhient caufed by the boggy Ground in the WoodThe
Cataract of Muonio-iojki : afuccefsful Attempt to defeend this Fall
in a Boat,
*%
TTAVING fet out from Kengis, wc did not change our boat
till we reached Kollare, a diftance of twenty-two miles.
We performed this voyage in twelve hours, in the courfe of which
our boatmen had only five hours reft. We were furprifed by a
hca v \ fall of rain, which poured upon us for half an hour in fucli
VoL. II. B 2 ' large
4 TRAVELS
large drops, and with fuch violence, that we began to fear It would
fill the boat. I had not feen fb copious a fliower fince I left Italy,
nor did I think it ufual in this high latitude. The rain was fo
round, and the drops fo large, that wc loft fight of the furrounding
objefts, infomuch that our view was confined to the diftance
of eight or ten feet all around us. This was the firft and only
time wx heard any thunder in our travels towards the North.
Our tent hitherto had only been an encumbrance to us, but the
period w as approaching wdicn we flaould find its ufe. In the progrefs
of our navigation as far as Kollare, wx encountered many catarafts,
but wc became fo accuftomed to them, that what at firft
was a caufc of terror, became at length an objeft of amufement.
Once it happened that wc got aground upon a rock in the middle
of the river. Our Finlanders puflied the boat on a large round
flone, fo that it hung on its furfacc, while wc remained fufpended
by our own equilibrium. Inftead of trembling at this fingular
fituatlon, in which wc could not continue a moment without imminent
danger of falling into the water, it excited in us an immoderate
fit of laughter ; a circumftance w hich feemed greatly
to furprife and dlveft pur boatmen.
The village of Kollare Is inhabited by Finlandifli pcafants, who
feem to be very much at their cafe. The young woman wc met
at Kengis was come home, and had prepared for us beds, excellent
milk, butter, and meat of the rein-deer in abundance. She
was in the houfe with her mother and a girl of the neighbourhood
;
the male part of the Family were gone a fifhing. This young perfon
THROUGH LAPLAND. 5
foil had a gaiety and natural vivacity very uncommon in a country
like this. Her figure was fine, though very tall, being near
fix feet in height. She fpoke with cafe, and replied to our dumb
fliew by fmart repartees, at which wx laughed upon truft, but
which our interpreter found excellent, and full of wit and humour.
The village is fituated uponafmall ifland, which is the property of
the inhabitants. The ifland is formed by the river Muonio, which
here divides itfclf into two branches. The people cultivate barley,
and have fbmc meadow grounds with excellent hay.
The firfl: favour the wxmen confeifred upon us was to fill our
room fo full of fmoke, that it brought tears in our eyes. Their
intention was good, they wiflied to deliver us from the moleftatioii
of the gnats ; and as a mean of very efFc(ftual prevention, they
made a fecond fire near tlic entrance of the apartment to flop the
frefli myriads of thofe infedls which wxre ready to rufli in upon
us from w ithout. A thick fmoke is an objed of great luxury in this
part of the wxrld. Thofe infeds,, which are the fcourge of that
country, became indeed very troublcfome to us ; and our gauze
\ eils and gloves could give us no protedion againfl: their fmging in
our ears, and interrupting our fleep. Here our own refolution, as
that of our fervants formerly, for the firft time, began to be ihaken.
The landfcape at this place is plcafing : all along the banks you
have the birch and other trees, which form a contraft with the
uniformity of the pines and the firs. The face of the country is
rather flat, and it is only at a certain diflance that you difeover
hills of fome fize. '
.
We
6 TRAVELS
We had the good fortune to meet here four of the moft experienced
boatmen we had feen in the whole courfe of our travels.
There was one of them called Simon, whom we named by way
of eminence, the Bonaparte of the CataraSis. It it impoflible ibr
me to give the reader an idea of the excellence of his tadics, his
courage, his addrefs, the juftnefs of his eye in judging from the
furface of the water the nature of the bottom, and in afeertaining,
with the moft fcrupulous precifion, the depth of the river.
Had it not been for the refolution and fteadinefs of this man, our
expedition muft have ended at Kollarc ; for the obftaclcs to be
encountered between this place and Muonionifea are fo fcrioufly
difeouraging to common boatmen, that they would have refufed
to a man to condud us any farther.
The paflage from Kollare to Muonionifea is a dillance of fixtyfix
miles, entirely upon the river Muonio, and conllantly in oppofition
to catarads and the current. The fortitude and perfeveranee
with which thofe people bore this long and extraordinary
labour, llicw the aftonilliing power of habit. Where the river
was too ftrong and violent for our boats, which owing to the
weight they carried drew too much water, to make good their
r ,*
paflage, we were forced to difembark and haul our empty boats
along the river. The Finlanders who were employed in dragging
the boat, kept on the bank, leaping from ftone to ftonc, and fomctimes
went up to the middle in water to difengage the rope from
the rocks, where it had become entangled. Sometimes the boats
themfelvcs w ere obftrufted in their paflage by the rocks, in which
cafe
THROUGH LAPLAND. 7
cafe one of the men threw himfclf into the water, fwam up to
them, and fet them afloat again. At laft we came to a place
where the extreme force of the cataradl, the depth of the water,
and the obftruftions from the rocks, rendered it to appearance altogether
impofllble to continue our progrefs. Our brave Simon
was the only perfon who thought every thing poflible. Tlie reft
feemed difpofed to find fault with his daring projeds, which they
never leffened; but, on the contrary, magnified through their
fears. But he was always the firft to* fet an example of the mol>
unwearied patience and adivity ; he conftantly charged himfclf
with the execution of the moft arduous and laborious part of the
undertaking, and never propofed a thing in which he did not
referve for himfelf the moft difficult and hazardous offices it
impofed : in ffiort, no perils could daunt his fpirit, no toils let
bounds to his exertions. He hauled the boat, he difengaged it
when it ftuck faft ; he was the firft to leap into the water whenever
occafion required, and feemed to do every thing himfclf
alone.
While our Finlanders wxre difplaying the nioft heroic pcrfevcrance
on the river and on its banks, the utn^oft we could do was
to keep up with them in the adjacent wood. It was not always
poffiblc to follow them clofe to the river, as we were not, like them,
able to jump from one rock to another. The current too fometimes
produced a giddinefs in the head, and we were unwilling to
wet our legs by wading through the water. Another fpecies of fatigue
ftill awaited us in the woods : w^e funk here and there fo
deep
8 TRAVELS
deep in the mofs, that wc thought we Ihould be immerfed in it
up to our necks. We fometimes met with places fo deep and
boggy, that it was highly dangerous to fet a foot upon them. The
branches everywhere intercepted our paiTage, while the veils wc
wore on our faces, to proted them from the flings of infeds,
caught hold of the branches, and were in danger of being torn in
pieces by every twig. Tall fir and pine-trees, which the wind
had levelled with the ground, and which time had almofl converted
into dufl, lay flattered in the woods. Wc wiflied to
eflape the embarraflment of the mofs, by flepping along the
trees that lay in our way ; but we found their fubflance generally
fo rotten and decayed, that now and then they fuddenly gave
way under our feet, and we could with difficulty favc ourfclves
from falling.
In this manner we had travelled about two Englifh miles, when
notice was given us that the catarads were become fb formidable,
that there was no chance of carrying the boats farther up the
river. To proceed without our boats was not to be thought of,
it being impoflible to get to Muonionifla but by crolfing the
river Muonio ; and b^fides, there was another fmaller river at the
oppofite fide. The only expedient we had left was to haul the
boats on fhore, and to drag them about two miles through the
woods, where we would come to a part of the river more quiet
and pradicable for failing on. Simon was the firfl to embrace
this refllution ; and without knowing that wc had travelled on
the fla drawn by horfls, he propofld that we fhould travel
over
THROUGH LAPLAND. <)
over the land through a thick wood in a boat. We were not inhuman
enough, however, to take advantage of Simon s magnanimity,
and to place ourfclvcs in the boat, for its continual fridion
againft the mofs and trees rendered it fo weighty, that it required
the whole force of our four boatmen to draw a fingle boat at once
without any thing in it. At length we got to the end of tw'o
miles, and we were very glad to repofe while our men returned
for our baggage and the other boat. In the courfe of this journey,
being invited by an uncommon noif^of the river, we drew near
to have a view^ of the famous cataraft of Muonio-kolki ; and
though w'c Judged it impoffible to defeend with fuch a current,
we were, nevcrthelcfs, bold enough to attempt and accomplifli it
on our return. As this cataract is the moft dangerous that w'c
pafled in the whole courfe of our river navigation, I (hall endeavour
to give the reader a defeription, as near as I can, of the manner
in which the paflage is performed.
Let him irnaginc a place where the river is fo hemmed in by
narrow banks, and fo compreffed with rugged and fliclving rocks,
that the current is doubled in its rapidity ; let him moreover reprefent
to his mind the formidable inequalities in the bed of the
river, occafioncd by thofc rocks, which can only be paffed by a fort
of leap, and confcquently make the water extremely turbulent
;
let him conceive that, for the fpace of an EngUfti mile, this river
continues in the fame ftate : and let him, after all this, confidcr
the hazard to which a boat muft be expofed that ventures itfelf
on fuch a furface, where both the nature of the channel, and the
VoL. II. C amazing
10 TRAVELS
amazing velocity of the current, feem to confpire to its dcftruction.
You cannot perform this paflage by limply following the
ftream ; but the boat muft go with an accelerated quicknefs,
which fliould be at lead double to that of the current. Two
boatmen, the mod adivc and robud that can be found, mud ufc
their utmod exertions in rowing the whole time, in order that the
boat may overcome the force of the dream, while one perfon is
dationed at the helm to regulate its diredion as circumdances
may require. The rapidity^pf this defeent is fuch, that you accomplilh
an Englilh mile in the Ipace of three or four minutes.
The man that manages the rudder can, with difficulty, fee the
rocks he mud keep clear of : he turns the head of the boat diredly
in the line of the rock he means to pafs, and when he is in
the very indant of touching it, he fuddenly makes a lharp angle
and leaves it behind him. The trembling padengcr thinks that
he lhall fee the boat daihed in a thoufand pieces, and the moment
after be is adonilhed at his own exidence.. Add to all this, that
the waves rulh into the boat from all fides, and drench you to the
Ikin-; while, at other times, a billow will dalh over the boat from
fide to fide, and fcarqely touch you. It is a fituation which prefents
danger in fuch frightful ihapes, that you could hardly open
your eyes and refrain from trembling, though a perlbn with the
greated certainty ihould affure you that you would not differ any
harm. Several people, however, have periffied in this place ; and
there were but two men in the village of Muonio who thought
themlelves qualified to condud the defeent : thefe were an old
man
THROUGH LAPLAND. 1
1
man of fixty-feven years of age, and his fon of twenty-fix. The
old boatman had known this paffage twenty years, and navigated it
always with fuccefs, and in the courfe of that period he had taught
his fon his own dangerous calling. It is impofliible to conceive
any thing more ftriking and intcrefting than the colleftcd and intrepid
expreffion of the old mans countenance in the progrefs of
the palTage. As our refolution to defeend this catarait was not
adopted raflily, but after a minute enquiry and cool rcfledlion, we
wxre prepared to obferve the detail.*of our adventure in its moll
trifling circumftanccs. The old man never fat down, but flood
upright, holding the rudder with both hands, which was tied on
purpofc for the occafion to the flcrn of the boat. In palling the
fmaller catarads, they defeend w'ith the rudder untied, which
they hold between their arms, and fit all the while. When w'c
were in the moft critical moments of the paflage, we had only
to caft our eye on the old mans countenance, and our fears almoll
inllantly vanifhed. In plaibcs of Icfs difficulty he looked
round to his fon, to obferve if he had proceeded with fafety. It
was plain his thoughts were more occupied about his fon than himfclf;
and indeed the young man grazed the crocks on twodifterent
occafions. As foon as all danger w^as over, we drew in to the fliorc
to repofe and enjoy the triumph of our fuccefs. It was then we
remarked that the fon, who had piloted the fccond boat, looked
extremely pale through terror ; and my companions fervant, who
had been in his boat, informed us that they had received two violent
fhocks, and that on both occafions he gave himfelf up for loft.
C 2 CHAP12
TRAVELS
CHAPTER IL
A /mail Colony of Finlanders between Kollare and MMonionifca
Charming Country around that ColonyRules of Colonization ohferved
in Lapland The Village of MuonionifcaThe Parfon of
the ParijhThe InhabitaAis of this Di/lriS : their Manners and
Mode of Life.
TT coft us two days and two nights to accompliih thefe iuctylix
miles ; and before recommencing our laborious travels, we
Ropped at a fmall cottage, where we found a little colony of Finlanders
which feemed extremely poor, and by their particular
fituation intereRed us very much.
The colony coniifted of two families only, who lived altogether
in the fame cottage, and amounted to feven perfons, including
two women and a young child. The fituation of this little community
made a powerful impreifion upon our minds. The furrounding
country is delightful ; a number of fmall wooded ifiands
ferve to cmbcllilh the courfe of the river, which here occupies a
broader channel, and glides on with a more placid current : the
oppofitc banks are adorned with trees and verdure. Nature leemcd
to fmile all around this folitary manfion, while peace and good
humour reigned within its humble walls. This Kttlc community.
THROUGH LAPLAND. *3
nity, cut off and infulated from all focicty for five months in the
year, have neither prieft nor temple. They are feparated from
Muonionifea by the many obllradions which we have deferibed
in the former chapter, and from Kengis by a journey of three or
four days, going and returning, the whole of the way of which ia
rendered difficult by catarads of a moft painful and laborious
afeent. Thefe people, accuftomed to live in the moft perfcA folitude,
having fcldom an opportunity of feeing thofc who rcfidc
neareft to them, were aRonilhed when we made our appearance.
The natives of Kollarc diflike to encounter the catarads, and confcqucntly
fubmit to the iatigue of afeending the current of the
river, only when they have fbme fpecial reafon, which occurs but
fcldom. The colonifts fubflU: by the labour of their hands, and
the fcanty produce of their fields. Their property in land extends
fix miles around their dwelling ; and lakes, rivers, fiihery, woods,
and meadows arc exclufivcly their own, within a circle whofc radius
is fix miles. Such extenfive j)ropcrty in land formed a Ibriking
contrail with the indigence of the poffcffors. They had
only four cows ; they lowed but one barrel of barley, which in
good years produced them feven barrels, buf. Ibmetimes did not
return them even the feed. One year their harveft was fo very
bad, that they mull have died of famine, but for a merchant of
Tornca who palTed this way, and gave them a fupply. This happened
at the beginning of their colonial cxillencc, when they had
firll come to lettle in this place. They were a couple of Finlandilli
families who had rclided at Muonionifea ; b\it having nothing
14 TRAVELS
thing to live upon, they rcfolved to emigrate, mutually to fupport
each other, and to fix their abode in a renaote corner of the country,
where they might acquire fome property. Whoever is difpofed
to eflablifh himfelf in Lapland has only to chufc his fituation,
but it muft be at the diftance of fix miles from the bounds of
the neareft village ; and the moment he has built his hut, all the
land for fix miles round him is his own by right of polTeffion.
The traveller, who in his excurfions vifits this country in fummcr,
will be enchanted, at every ftep he takes, with the finding
afped of thofe hills and lakes, and with the variety and foftnefs of
the pidures which prefent themfelves in fucceflion to his eye. If
that traveller fhould have been the vidim of thofe vices and paffions
which riot in great towns, and countries highly civilifed
and refined ; fliould he have narrowly efcaped being lliipwrcckcd
on the tempeftuous fca of ambition ; or fhould he have fufFcrcd
the mortification of a difappointed fclf-lovc, and all the inquietude
of an overweening conceit of his own merit ; fliould this
miferablc man have never found one with whom he might fharc
his pains and his pleafurcs ; fliould he, in fliort, have never tailed
the fwcets of genuine friendfhipah ! how ought fuch a difturbed
and afflided mind to covet the innocence and fimplicity of this
country ! How fortunate would it be for him, could he exchange
this, with its artlcfs joys, for the high blown luxuries in which he
had hitherto lived. But alas! there is nothing on earth perfed ;
no human enjoyment is without alloy. Even that fpot, which I
have deferibed as fo peaceful and charming, has its fliare of mifery,
w'hich
THROUGH LAPLAND. ^5
which diminiflies or even deftroys its attradlions. The lonji; continuance
of the winter and its horrors ; the opprcflivc multitude
of tormenting infefts In the fummer, would, in the opinion of
moll men, counterbalance any advantages which the beauty of the
fituation, or the allurements of rural life, could prefent. But,
after all, where can the unhappy find peace and joy ; what region
can fliclter him from the forrows that dwell in his wounefed heart?
If content be not the inmate of his bofom, it is In vain to feck
for it in diftant countries : it is a phiintom that will conftantly
elude his grafp. A change of climate cannot relieve the conflidl
in his bread; and why fliould he fight without, fince the battle
rages wdthin ! Happinefs, like the funs rays, is difperfed over the
whole earth : it is diftributed, though with apparent inequality,
yet with impartial Juflicc. The Laplander is without night in
fummer ; but he is alfo without day during his long winter. Nature
balances all things.
Muonlonifca is a village compdfed of fifteen or lixtecn dwell
-
ing-houfes, irregularly placed on the left bank of the river Muonio.
Eaftward it is bordered by a chain of mountains, of which
Mount Pallas and Keimio-tunduri arc the mod confiderablc ; towards
the north, and at a fhort didance, the woods terminate
the View, which is the cafe alfo towards the wed and fouth, into
which quarter the river holds its courfe. Muonto is the name of
the river, nifca fignifics beginning ; and the village is fo called,
becaufe it is the place where the river begins to aflumc a regular
form. At Muonionifea there is a church and* a parfon, who, like
that
16 TRAVELS
that of Kengls, is under the fuperintendence of the minillcr of
Upper Tornea. The parifti of Muonionifea is about two hundred
fquare miles in extent, and the parfon is to all appearance a peafant^
like any of his flock ; having nothing vifible about him that
refers to his clerical dignity, except a pair of black breeches. This
poor man had the misfortune of being ruined by a fire/ which confumed
all his houfehold furniture with his library, from which he
could not even fave his bible. This lofs however was not what he
feemed to have felt moft fej^erely, as he obferved, that after this
difaftcr, he found himfclf c'afed of the burden of reading Latin,
a language in which he fometimes attempted to converfe wuth us,
but which, in his mouth, formed fuch a jargon as made us laugh,
though it did not promote the interchange of ideas. The honeft
parfon was of great ufe to us during our flay at Muonionifea ; he
attended us everywhere, was ready to explain on all occafions
where we found difficulties ; and as he was well acquainted with
the Finlandifli and Swcdifli languages, was able to give us the
etymology of many words that we met with and wiflied to undcrftand.
He was the moft clownifh parfon I ever faw in my various
travels ; and I believe that calamity and extreme diftrefs had
contributed more than any thing to reduce him, in point of perfonal
confcqucnce, to a level with the mcaneft of his parifhioners.
This man, however, poflefled a large fliare of ftrong natural fenfe
;
he reafoned with much juftnefs and fagacity on the fubjeft of
politics; and as he was a poor and humble being himfclf, he
violently declaimed againft the manner in which the ariftocracy
and
THROUGH LAPLAND. 17
and high clergy abufed their riches. As a politician he was a determined
enemy to every thing defpotic ; he had infinite refped
for Bonaparte, and one would have thought he entertained fomc
idea tiuit the conqueror of Italy might one day come to Muonionifea,
and make him fuperintendent miniftcr of Lapland. He
was particularly hoflilc to RufTia and its government, which he
laid debafed the people, and kept them, from policy, in a Rate
of brutifh ignorance. Sometimes he would difeourfe on the abufes
of birth and hereditary fucceflion, irf a manner which I was aftonifhed
to hear from a man, who had nothing in the wwld but a
fliirt, a pair of breeches, and the flioes on his feet. I imagined
that fome modern book on thofe fubjefts had fallen into his
hands ; but when he gave me an account of the works that compofed
his library, I found it had confiftcd of nothing but tra<Ss of
divinity, and books on theological controverfy. What aftonifhed
me moft was, that this fort of reading had not bereft him of the
good fenfe nature had given hihi ; hut he aflured me he had
ftudied thofe volumes as little as poflfiblc. He w as the better plcafcd
to fee travellers, becaufe they never could be any inconvenience to
him, fincc being very ill lodged himfclf, it could not be expefted
he fliould find them accommodation ; and befidcs, by their arrival
he was fure of fome glafles of brandy, with which we ufed to regale
him as often as he came to fee us. He declared our brandy
was delicious ; and with each glafs he fwal lowed, pronounced its
culogium in a manner equally energetic and fincere. In this country,
far removed from the infection of our corrupt manners, flat-
VoL. II. D terj
0 7 !*7 7^
i8 TRAVELS
tery and parafitical praiie are but little in fafhion, and confe*
quently we did not fufped the parlbn of dillimulation, or that he
was not perfedlly fatisfied as to the good qualities he afcribcd to
that beverage.
I lhall now lay before the reader what information I was able
to colled, refpeding this village and the manners of its inhabi*
tants. The population of the whole parilh conlifts of four hundred
fouls, difperfed over a furface of nearly ^o hundred fquare
miles. The inhabitants are all of them Finlandilh emigrants, who
came and fettled here, and who confequently fpeak the language
of Finland. All travellers who have vifited this country have
named the people Laplanders ; and I have in fome degree conformed
myfclf, in the courle of this work, to the fame prejudice,
but I have diftinguiftied them by the appellation of Finlandilh
Laplanders, or in other words, Finlanders fettled in Lapland.
Their habits and manner of life are nearly the fame with thofc
of the natives of Finland ; and, indeed, there is no difference but
what is produced.by climate and their topographical lituation. It
it very remarkable, however, that the Finlanders fettled here,
like the palloral Laplanders, know nothing cither of poetry and
mulic, or mufical inftruments. Surrounded with lakes and rivers
abounding in fifh, they take little concern in agriculture, but depend
chiefly for fubfifience on the precarious refburce of fifhing,
or on the Rill more uncertain fruits of the chafe. The qualities,
as among all favage nations, in the higheft eftimation in the male
fex, are bodily ffrength and adivity. They enjoy the appetite of
love.
THROUGH LAPLAND. >9
love, but have little experience of the fighs and tender emotions
of that paffion. The people have a gloomy and ferious deportment
: the youth of both fexes remain in the company of each
other without the leaft of that playful gaiety which is fo becoming
in their years. I never once oblervcd a young man dired a
fmile of cpmplailancc towards a young woman. It is a pretty
general cuftom, however, for the youth of both fexes to fleep together,
and what is ftill more extraordinary, without producing
any decilivc cvidct^l^^of too much familiarity. The father charges
himfclf with the marriage of his diild ; and the union of the
parties is a contrail rather dilated by family convenience than
by any predilection for each other. At the fame time there have
been inftances of jcaloufy, and even of madnefs occafioncd by
this paffion. There was a woman, it feems, ftill alive, who became
infanc from love, and who in her frenzy killed her own
daughter. She is faid to have entertained a violent fufpicion of
a woman, whom fhe fuppofed hfid engaged the afteClions of her
hufband. We find contradictions in the character of every people
on earth, and this is a ftriking example in corroboration of that
obfervation. There is not an inftance of cither robbery or murder
known in this country ; but cafes of fuicide have happened
:
people have drowned thcmfclvcs, or made attempts upon their
lives in one fhape or another. Such excefTes arc there attributed
neither to want nor to the paffion of love, but to madnefs, occafioncd
by fome natural caufc, or to violent deprelfion and lowncfs
of fpirits.
D2 The
20 TRAVELS
The food of thefc people in fummer confifts of fifli dried in the
fun. When the hlhery happens to be very produdive, they fell
the furplus, or give it in exchange for meal, fait, or iron, which
they want for domcftic purpolcs. They like better to receive meal
in exchange for their fifli, than to apply themfclves to the labour
of the foil. Among them agriculture is ftill in its primitive
Rate. They make no ufe of the plough, but work the ground by
the force of their arms, though the parfon has been at much
pains, but without fuccefs, to teach them the advantage of that
implement. He ufed himfclf to yoke his cow to the plough, and
cultivate a fmall field of his own, in order to fet an example to
others. As foon as the fnow has begun to fall in autumn, they
carefully obferve the traces of the bear, and go out to attack him
in parties of three or. four perfons. About the middle of Auguft,
the feafon when the birds caft their feathers, they have confiderablc
fuccefs in the chafe of wild ducks and other aquatics, which
thdy knock down with the oar, thefc animals being then unable
to cfcapc from them by the affiftance of their wings.
When they have. cut down their hay and fufficiently dried it,
they put it upon a fort of frame, ralfcd high above the ground,
on four pofts, fo as not only to fccure it from being humid by the
overflowing of the river, but alfo from being carried aw ay by the
force of the current. Some of them poflefs rein-deer, which In
fummer they intrufl: to the care of a Laplander, who condudls
them into the vallies among the mountains, and w atches and attends
them in their pafture.
The
THROUGH LAPLAND. 21
The people arc extremely fober, they never drink fplrltuous
liquors, except on marriage days, when they indulge, but not to
cxcefs, in mirth and gaiety. The ceremony of* marriage is followed
by a dinner in their llyle, and afterwards by a dance, but
w'ithout mufic of any kind, except their cries and the fnapping
of their fingers. They have no relifli for beer ; and when we prevailed
upon them to tafte our wine, they made wry faces and took
it for phyfic. The parfon alTured us in the moft pathetic accents,
that there w^as not a finglc glafs of brapdy to be had in the w'hole
two hundred fquare miles of his parifli*; he told us likewife, that
drunkennefs is regarded by the people as the moft fcandalous vice
to which a man can be fubjed : and we could not help fufpeding
that this was one of the caufts of his being fo little revered and
eftcemed by his flock.
Difeafc and ficknefs are extremely rare among thefe people ;
there have been inftanccs of peafants in this parlfli, who have
lived to the age of one hundred an^ ten years : and the only diforder
that proves fatal to tlie inhabitants, is a kind of inflammatory
fever.
CHAPTER
22 TRAVELS
CHAPTER III.
Excurjionfrom Muoniont/ca to Mount Pallas^ and Kcimio- Tunduri
Rivers Muonio and JcresPIcaJng Scenery about the latter
Different Terms of the Finlanders for a Mountain, accordhig to
its peculiar QualityProJpeSifrom Keimio-^TunduriMount Pnl-^
las inaccejjihleFace of the CountrySnow on Mount Pallas,
and Ice on a LakeSome Ohjels in Natural Hj/iory colleSled.
A DAY and a night /pent at Muonionifea ferved to recover
^ us from the fatigue of our late journey, and the following
morning we found ourfelvcs difpofed to make an cxcurfion into
the country. Our honeft parfon was our guide in this expedition.
He made an excellent fellow traveller, accommodated himfcif to
every thing ; and what rendered him Hill more agreeable to us,
was, that we found him by no means a mere novice in the purfuits
of natural hiftory. Dr. Quenzel, who made the fame tour,
had him for his companion, and inftrufted him in different particulars
: he was, for inftance, no ftranger to the names of certain
infedls, fuch as the coccinella trifffeiata, and the cureulio areticus ;
in the department of ornithology he knew the motacilla fuecica,
the turdus rofeus ; and in that of fifhes, thefalmo alpha.
We direfted our courfe towards Mount Pallas. The name of
this
THROUGH LAPLAND. *3.
this mountain teemed to us rather extraordinary, but our friend
the parfou was unable to explain its meaning, nor could he ever
give us any thing like a plauHblc etymology of the term. Our
dcfign in this excurfion was to have a view of the furrounding
country from the top of that mountain, to collcft, as we went
along, plants, birds, infcdls, and fliells from the bed of the river
;
to make a drawing of any pifturcfque objcdl that might prefent
itfelf, and to fall in with fome wandering Laplander watching
his rein-deer, which pafture in the^lcns and vallics of thofe
mountains. We had no choice as to our manner of travelling,
and w'erc obliged to proceed by water to the very foot of the
mountain. Having failed down the river Muonio, we went up
the fmall river Jcrcs, which runs into the Muonio, three miles
from Muonionifea. This little river flows for the greateft part in
a peaceful llrcam, and fpreading itfelf at certain Ihort intervals,
forms charming little lakes, traverfmg a country the moft pleafing
and divcrfiiicd poflible. Bir^s, and efpecially wild-ducks,
fwarm on this river, and afforded us a very lingular kind of Iport.
In certain plaees the channel becoming narrow, the willows and
other trees of the oppofite banks unite and entwine their branches,
fo as to compofc a fpecies of bower, which fkreened us from the
rays of the fun. The wild-ducks frequently flew into thofe recefles,
but not thinking it prudent to venture far amongft the
trees, made a precipitate retreat : on their return they pafled direftly
over our head, and offered us the beft opportunity poffible
for fhooting. This river exhibited the finefl; fecnery a painter
could
^4 TRAVELS
could dcfirc in the mild and rural ftyle. As we approached clofc
to the mountain wc came upon a large lake which forms the
fource of the river. This lake is intercepted, however, by a cataraft
of very confidcrablc length, fo incumbered with ftoncs,
that fcarccly an empty boat could have proceeded upon it. The
neceffities of thefc people impelled them to make an attempt to
remove fomc of the ftoncs in this lake, and to turn them to one
fide for the purpofc of deepening the water in the middle, and fo
to facilitate the paffage of 'their fifliing-boats. We were aflured,
that the firft perfons who fucceeded in furmounting the obftacles
which feparated the navigable part of this river from the lake,
had each of them, after fifteen days fifhing, four or five barrels of
fi/h for his own fhare.
Mount Pallas, at a diftance, has a very fallacious appearance,
feeming to be of no confidcrablc fize, but becomes more impofing
in proportion as you approach it. The parfon informed us, that the
Finlanders have fix words to exprefs a mountain, each of which
ferves to denote fomc diftinftive quality in the objed; viz. ift,
which fignifics a fmall rifing ground, furnifhed wdth wood ;
2dly, Rova, one of a more confidcrablc eminence, covered with
ftoncs ; 3djy, Warn, a hill with a tuft of trees ; 4thly, Kero, a
large hill with brufliwood here and there on the furface ; 5thly,
Tundtirif denoting a high naked mountain ; and alfo a Cth name,
which is Setke, fignifying a long hill, without any allufion to its
height.
After doubling certain points and promontories, wx rowed the
^ boat
THROUGH LAPLAND. 25
boat as near as we could to the mount Kcimio-timduri, which we
immediately began to climb. The afeent is extremely difficult
and troublcfome, in as much as we had not only to climb, but
to open a paffiigc with our hands acrols woods which nobody perhaps
ever penetrated before, at Icaft certainly not from motives of
amufement. At laft we came to a part of the mountain which is
bare of trees, wliere we found, with fomc concern, that it was impoffible
for us to get to mount Pallas, by realon of fwamps and
iinall lakes, which infulated the mouirfain, and' w hich were themfelves
fecluded from one another by impaffable marflics. At the
top of Keimio we had all around under our eye a vail profped,
which afforded us a moft perfed idea of the country. Towards
the cart and weft, the furface is covered with finall hills as
lar as the eye can reach, whofc tops feemed to mix with the Ikies
at the horizon ; northward, mount Pallas lifts his head far above
the other objefts, and looks down upon all the adjacent mountains
: but the view towards the fbtith prefented an immenfe trad
of country wholly inaccefliblc and impenetrable taman, confiiliug
of a difmal and dreary extent of fwamps and marffiy foil.
The whole of what we faw was more calculated to intereft a
geographer than a painter, who could perceive very little that
would fuit the purpofes of his art. Between us and mount Pallas
lay a fmall lake, on whofe furface the ice had not yet entirely
difappeared : being fituated in the bottom of the valley, it w\as
fcrccncd from the folar rays, and as it was probably formed of
fnovv water, which had run dowm from the mountains, it might
VoL. II. E be
26 TRAVELS
be lefs pervious to the warmth of the atmofplicrc. Tlic Ihow was
entirely gone on Keimio, but wc obferved it lying here and there
on mount Pallas, a circumftancc probably owing to the difference
of their refpeftive elevations.
Wc made various perambulations round this mountain in fearch
of birds and plants. We found a couple of groufe (tetrao cagopiis
of Linn.) which were more than one half white ; and alfo a
couple of emheriza 7tivalis, Linn, which were juft beginning to
change the colour oT their plumage ; they w'cre ftill almoft entirely
white.
The fifh of the lake are the following
:
Salmo albula Cyprinus alburnum
Perea fluviatilis Efox lucius
Gadus lota
On our return homeward we examined the channel of the river
for fliells, in which it is not unufual to find pearls. We found
the fpccies called mya piSionwi, but the pearls were fcarccly vifible,
and in all of tjicm fo very trifling, that we thought them not
worth our notice. Our attendants were aftoniflicd at the zeal
with which we purfued our rcfcarches ; nor had they the fmallcft
conception of their utility. The parfon himfclf w'as at a lofs to
difeover w'hat real advantages wc could propofe toourfelves by the
inveftigation of infefts and plants. Since his library was deftroyed,
he had found that he could eafily difpenfc with divinity, and fan*
cied he had (fifcovcred that divinity, viewxd as a fcience, was entirely
ufelefs, and that the fcieiices in general were good for nothing
THROUGH LAPLAND. ^7
thing in the world, except in fo far as they amufed the inteilccL
and ferved to banifli the liftleflhcfs of human life.
As we fell down the river we were prefented with fccnery altogether
different from what w'C had feen in afeending it. One part
of our plan ftill remained to be accompliflied, I mean that of traverfing
the mountains in queft of the Laplanders and tlicir reindeer
; but we were fo extremely fatigued, that it was deemed
more wife to return to Muonionifea, We had made a tour of
thirty-fix miles in the fpacc of twenty*1iours, almoft without halting.
The heat of the weather was cxccffivc : Cclfiuss thermometer
at noon rofe in the fhade to 27 degrees ; and the gnats tormented
us inccflantly. Upon our arrivaJ at Muoniontfca, we
refumed our ufual occupations ; and having enjoyed a litUe repofe,
we began to prepare for our departure.
Our abode at this place made Ibmc addition to our colledion
of natural hiftoiy. We obtained, among other things, fevcral fpecimens
of the motacillafuecica, witK their eggs and neft. We got
alfo a magnificent /am, which a Laplander killc,d on one of the
neighbouring lakes. It turned out to be the lams gtaucus of Linnaeus.
Befides this we colledcd a confidcrable quantity of plants
and infeds.
E (TIAPTER
28 TRAVELS
CHAPTER IV.
Departurefrom Muonionifcat July thefrjiExceJJive HeatTravel
by NightA Settlement called PallajoventoProper Boundary of
LaplandMtftake of Travellers and Geographers concernwg Lapland
Face of the Country between Muontonifca and Pallajoven'w,
and thence to KautokeinoThe fmall Rivers of the Country offer
more Novelty than the greater onesDifficulties arijing fromJhaU
low WaterThe Rein-deer Mofs (Lichen rangiferinus, Linn.J
covering the whole Surface of the Ground: Vegetation near it
Arrival at LappajerviMnfquetoes exceedingly trouhlefomeFires
and Smoke the mof effeSiual Protection againft themSome Lapland
Fi/hermenTheir HabitationsA Night paffed with thefe.
People, and Accommodation afforded.
TTTE let off from Muonionifea on the firft day of July, about
^ " ten oclock, at night. The atmofphcre was heated to a
degree nearly fuffocatlng throughout the whole of the day. The
thermometer of Cclfius Ihewed at noon 29 degrees ; at midnight
it fell down to 19 degrees. The water in the rivers and lakes was
clear and limpid, and we Ihould gladly have bathed ourlclvcs, had
wx not been deterred from fuch a rclblution by the mufquctocs,
who would have devoured us alive, if wx had expofed ourfclves
to
niROUGH LAPLAND. 29
to their fury without the protedion of our clothes. Wc chofc to
purfue our journey at night, and came to a determination to obferve
the fame rule in future, and take our reft in the day-time, in
order to enjoy that temperature of the air which in the night
feafon is produced by the obliquity of the funs rays. Wc afcended
the Muonio until wc arrived at the little river of Pallojoki,
at a fmall dlftance from which there is a fettlcmcnt, or colony,
called Pallajovcnib.
This colony is the proper boundary (jf Lapland towards Tornca
;
accordingly it is named in the map Tornca Lapmark : therefore
until you have reached Pallajovenio, you cannot be faid geographically
to have fet foot in Lapland. The whole of that vaft
tradl of country which comprehends Ivuica, Pitca, and Umca, as
far as Tornea, properly belongs to Weft Bothnia. In this refped
travellers arc greatly raiftaken, and fuppofc they have been in
Lapland when they have got as far as Tornca ; whereas Wert
Bothnia makes an angle more to the north, nearly the diftance of
two hundred and forty miles beyond Tornca. if a perfbn, when
in Sweden, wiflies to fee Lapland merely for the credit of having
vifited that country, he has no occafion to go farther than Afelc,
which is about an hundred miles at moft diftant from Umea, on
the borders of Angermanland ; but it he dcfires to fee a country
different from any that he has ever feen, and to contemplate the
manners of a people unlike, in every particular, to all the inhabitants
of Europe, he muft proceed northwards, and leave behind
him the great towns, and all notions of a civilized ftatc of focicty.
'Phe
3 ^ TRAVELS
The geographical divifion of a country is a matter arranged betwixt
fovereigns, and does not depend on the hand of nature. The
king of Sweden may, with a ftrokc of his pen, convert into L^apland
what is now Weft Bothnia ; but fuch changes will cfFed
no alteration in the manners of the people, nor in the natural condition
of the country.
It is remarkable that Maupertuis who compofed an abridgment
of geography, ftiould have knowm fo little of a country wherein he
made fo many obfervations.** He conftantly confounds Lapland
With Weft Bothnia, and gives to his journey, which only extended
to the borders of Lapland, the title of Voyage an Fond de la Lap*
ponky a Journey into the Interior of Lapland.* All other travellers
after him feem to have fallen into the like miftakc, and
fancied they had been in Lapland, when they had got as far as
Tornca. They have likewife confounded the Lapland tongue
with the language of Finland ; and when they have brought with
them a fervant girl born in the town of Tornea, have fuppofed
they had got a Laplander.
The country from Tornea to Muonionifea and Pallajovcnio,
though it changes its Appearance to that of a wildcrncfs, does not
greatly vary. The mountains arc the fame ; the catarads, lakes
and woods carry a near rcfemblance : in fhort, the objeds that
prefent themfelves to the eye, have not a fufficient degree of diverfity
to render them worthy of oWervation. The face of the country,
however, proceeding from Pallajovcnio to Kautokeino, by
the little river Pallojoki, is very different. The fmall rivers in
general
THROUGH LAPLAND. 3 '
general arc moft intcrcfting to a curious traveller, bccaufc they are
not fo- often vifited, and both the country and the people are lefs
known ; whereas the larger rivers arc more frequented, cfpecially
in winter, when they ferve as a high road for chofe that come
from Muonionifea and Tornea. Hence the natives that live near
thefc riversbecomc familiar with llrangcrs, and cannot be viewed
fo much in their own natural characflcr, as thofe who arc merely
acquainted with the objeds that belong to thcmlelvcs and their
country. The paiTage northward oivthc Muonio, from Muonionifea
to Enonteki, Is very fimllar to tluit from Kengis to Muonionifea,
or to that from Upper Tornea to Kengis.
PalLajovcnib is a fettlcmcnt of Finlanders, confilling of about
four or five families. The merchants of Tornea have built a fmall
place, w hich confifts of a room, where they can make a fire, and
refrefh themfclvcs, as they pafs through this colony during the
winter, in their way to the fairs. The people of Pallajovenlo appeared
to be much at their cafe ,* their dwellings feemed to be
comfortable and neat, and ditFcrcnt from thofe of the other pcafants
of this country.
We refreflicd ourfelvcs at this place, and talking our departure,
proceeded on the river Muonio to where it joins the Pallojoki,
which we afeended in order to get to Lappajervi. This paflage,
if performed in a ftraight line, w'ould not be above twelve miles,
but owing to the windings of the river, it made a journey of more
than thirty. The river Pallojoki prefented to us difficulties of a
kind wx had not experienced during the whole of our expedition.
As
32 TRAVELS
As no ram had fallen In this country for fome time, the water was
fo iliallow, that the boat ran aground, and it became ncccflary to
land in order to lighten it. The windings of the river were fo
frequent and fo contrary, that our progrefs was very tedious. Our
boatmen were obliged to undergo great labour in moving the boat
forward : fometimes they were compelled to get out and tow it
;
at other times to lift it up and carry it on their Ihouldcrs to a confiderable
diftance, where the bed of the river was nearly dry. In
addition to the great exertion and fatigue which thefe good people
had to bear, they were kept conftantly w et ; and though their
toils W'cre exceflive, they advanced but little in theirjourney, fince
the curvature of the river would often bring them back to a fmall
diftance from the place from which they had with fo much trouble
proceeded. This was mortifying and dlfcouraging in the extreme.
We ourfclvcs, who went on foot along the banks, had no better
rcafon to be fatisfied w'ith our condition. We had every where
to force our way through buflics and briars, and it was with much
difficulty that we could go on at all, being frequently flopped by
branches of trees, and having the veils torn away which covered
our faces, and fccur^d us from the attacks of the mufquetocs.
However, the fudden change of fcenc, and the view of the country,
together with the novelty of manners and appearance in the
inhabitants, made us in fome meafurc amends for thefe hardfhips
and inconvcnicncics.
Before wc arrived at Lappajervi, wc halted for fome time on a
rock of confidcrablc fize, which was feparated by the river from
the
THROUGH LAPLAND. 3 ,)
the adjoining land. Here we made a large fire, in order to drive
away the infefts, that we might take our dinner with comfort.
The country around offered a fccne very uncommon, and to us
quite new. The mols on which the rein-deer feeds covers the
whole ground, which is flat, and only iTcirted by hills at fomc diftance
; but thefc hills alfo arc clothed with this moft. The colour
of the mofs is a pale yellow, which, when dry, changes to
white : the regularity of its fliapc, and the uniform manner in
which the furface of the ground w. decked with it, appears very
Angular and ftriking : it has the feftiblance of a beautiful carpet.
Thcfe plants grow in a fliape nearly odagonal, and approaching
to a circle ; and as they clofeiy Join each other, they form a kind
of mofaic work* or embroidery. The white appearance of the
country, which thence arifes, may for a moment make you imagine
that the ground is covered with fnow ; but the idea of a winter
fccne is done away by the view of little thickets in full green,
which you perceive feattered here and there, and ftill more by the
prefence of the fun and the warmth of his rays. As this mofs is
very dry, nothing can poflibly be more plea^nt to walk upon, nor
can there be any thing fofter to ierve as a bed. Its clcannefs and
whitenefs is tempting to the fight, and when we had put up our
tent, we found ourfclves in every refpeft very comfortably lodged.
I had many times before met with this mofs, but in no place had
I found it fo rich. It was the only produce here, which nature
feemed to favour and fiipport : no other herb was growing near it,
nor any other vegetable on the fpot, except a few birch-trees,
VoL. II. F with
34 TRAVELS
with their underwood, and Lome firs, dilperfed on the hill by the
river fide. All thefe feemed to vegetate with difficulty, as if deprived
of their nourilliment by the mofs, and appeared withering
and fiunted. Some trees, indeed, which grow very near the
water, had the appearance of being in a fiouriffiing Rate, perhaps
owing to the moifture' they derived from the river : but^ in fiiort,
this mols appeared to be the royal plant, which ruled abfolute
over the vegetable kingdom of the country, and diftributed its
bounty and influence amongfi;,a particular race of men and animals.
We arrived at Lappajervi in the evening, and our boatmen
were glad to take fome refi after their wearifome voyage. When
we arrived on the borders of the lake, we fell in with two Lapland
fifiiermen, who had returned from their days fiiliing, and
were preparing to pafs the night there. Wc were guided to the
fpot where they were by a large column of fmoke, which mounted
into the air. On approaching them wc found that they had befincared
their faces with tar, and covered their heads and lliouldcrs
with a cloth to proteft thcmfclves from the mufquetocs. One of
them was fmoking tobacco, and the other was Iccuring the filli
they had taken from the depredations of the inieds. Their
meagre and fqualid looks difeovered evident figns of wretchednefs.
They were covered from head to foot by fwarms of mufquetoes,
from whofe flings their clothing fcarccly ffiielded them. They
were melting with heat, yet they durfl not throw off their covering,
much lefs remove from before the fire. Our arrival added
millions
J Jtni/A

THROUGH LAPLAND. 35
millions of thclc flies to the myriads already there, as their numbers
were continually increaflng in our paflage thither. It was
impoflible to ftand a moment ftill ; every inftant we were forced
to thruft our heads into the midft of the fmoke, or to leap over
the flame to rid ourfclvcs of our cruel pcrfccutors.
We drew our boat afliorc, and walked about a mile into tlu
country to vlfit the families of thcfc^two Lapland fifticrs, who had
fixed their conftant habitation there. We found fires every where
kept up : the pigs had their fire, thb cows had theirs ; there was
one in the infidc of tlic houfe, and another without, clofe to the
door. The Lapland houfes arc not fo large as thole of the Fin -
landers. The door-way of the one wx faw here was only four
feet high, fo that we found it ticcelTary to ftoop as we entered
We had left our tent behind us, fuppofing we fliould find accommodation
to pafs the night with the Laplanders, and that it would
at Icaft be equally good as that we had met w ith amongft the
Finlanders ; but wx found ourfclves difappointed : how ever, we
were forced to put up with what convenience^ the people could
offer us; and therefore, when it was tim^ to retire to reft, we
were accommodated with rein-deer Ikins, lUid over fmall birchen
twigs and leaves, which were fpread on the ground, in a fmall
apartment filled with fmoke. We gropj:d our way into our bedchamber,
hecaufc the fmoke hindered us from feeing any light.
Some time after we had laid ourfelvcs down to lleep, I heard a
breathing, w^hich feemed to proceed from a corner of the room,
and which we were unable to account for, as we fuppofed our-
F 2 fclvcs
TRAVELS
felves thp only living creatures in this place. I imagined it was a
dqp, or fbme other animal, which had taken his nights lodging
thAre. Prefently I heard a loud ligh, which Icemed rather to be
uttered by a human being than the animal I judged to be our
fellow lodger. I raifed my head up gently to try if I could difcover
any thing. Some cracks in the fide of the walls;! and a few
openings in the roof, afforded a faint light, and in order to afeertain
the caufe of our ahum, I crept forward on my hands and
knees. As the diilance was but Ihort, I foon reached the fpot
from whence the founds came, and found two children naked,
and lying upon deer-fkins. The children were fuddenly awaked,
and feeing me approach them in the pofture deferibed, fancied
themfelves in danger of an attack from fome wild beaft, and ran
out of the room, crying to their mother for help.
CHAPTER
THROUGH LAPLAND, 37
CHAPTER V.
t
Lake of Pallajefvi, and the JJland of KhiiafariStay on this IJland:
Occupations and AnmfementsThe Sea Swallow (Sterna Hirundo^
LhuJ : Sagacity of thefe Birds, andUheir Utility to Fifhermen
Some Laplanders engagedfor the Profecution of the JourneyDe*
pariurefrom KintafariAfmall River called RejlfokiDefcription
of the Laplanders that were to attend the AuthorTheir want
of CleanlinefsThe Finlanders difmtffedProceed on Foot with
the LaplandersTemper and Dijpojition of thefe PeopleWeather
extremely hot
:
great Inconvenience thence arifingCome to a Lake
called Kervijervi, which they crojs in Boats.
4 T Lappajcrvi we received no Very encouraging intelligence
refpefting the poflibility of profecuting the remainder of
the way to Kauto Keino. The diftance is feventy miles: we had
feveral lakes to crofs, rivers to afeend and defeend, and difficult
fwamps to pafs over, and could have no hopes of meeting with
an habitation, or even a human creature, throughout the whole
courfe of the journey ; but we had formed a determined refolution,
from our firft fetting out upon this expedition, not to be difeouraged
by any account or relation of difficulties, but rather to be
witnclTes
38 TRAVELS
witncffcs ourfelves of their reality. To this determination the
fuccefs of our undertaking is chiefly to be aferibed.
We were given to underftand that wc might poffibly meet with
fome Lapland fifliermcn upon the lake of Pallajervi ; and with
this viOvv wc afeended the little river Pallajokl, which derives its
fourcc from it. This river is fo fliallow, of fo little w'idth, and
twifted into fo many windings, that it is with great difficulty navigated.
Our embarraflments in afeending it multiplied as wc
proceeded: w'c were under the ncceffity, for the greater part of
the courfc, to carry our baggage upon our backs, in order to
lighten our boat. When wc arrived at the lake there arofc fo
ftrong a wind, that our boat w^as in danger of finking before wc
could make the little ifland of Kintafari. When wc gained the
ifland, we difeovered three fifliermcn, who had creded a kind of
hut with boughs of trees, plaftered over w ith mud, and had hung
up in it a quantity of fifli to dry. This little ifland might take
up about half an hour to walk round it. Near it was another
ifland, about a fourth part Tefs; but this was fo inconfiderable as
to be without a na^me.
The lake was furrounded with little hills covered with reindeer
mofs, interfperfed with woods of birch and fir. Wc were
every where prefented wnth the contrafted view deferibed before,
which aded fo forcibly upon our imagination, that wc could not
but fancy ourfelves upon fomc inchanted ifland. When we looked
round us, wc difeovered nothing that refemblcd any country we
had hitherto feen, and we feemed to be tranfported into a new
world.
THROUGH LAPLAND. 39
world. The fun, which llione upon us, never funk below our
horizon ; and we beheld almoft np colour but white intermixed
with green. Thefe objects, joined to the habitation of the fifliermen,
the novelty of the flowers which ornamented the ifle, that
of the birds which made the woods refound with their notes, all
contributed to aftonifK our fenfes, that had not anticipated fucli
extraordinary fccnes. Our tent, when fet up, appeared to be the
palace of the idand, and was as llrikingly fuperior to the hut of
the Laplanders, as the rcfidcncc of Ibvcteign princes to the dwellings
of their fubjeds. We got into our boat on purpofc to take a
furvey of our fituation from the lake, and we plcafed ourfclvcs
with the contemplation of the magnificent appearance of our new
kingdom. The infidc of our tent w\'is carpetted with birchenleares
ftrewed over the mofs, which afforded a delicious perfume.
Our fiflicrmcn feemed furprifed at the fplendour of our manfion,
and, for the firft time, had a pattern of luxury exhibited before
them of which they had conceived no idea. The three days we
paffed on this ifland were fpent delightfully: the^akc fiirniflicd
our table with the fineft fifli, we found plenty of game in the
woods ; we fiflied, we hunted, w^e bathed in the lake ; we took
views of the landfcapes furrounding us, and collcdcd plants and
infeds. We followed thefe fevcral amufements without the leall
interruption from the mufquctocs, which, fortunately, had been
driven off the ifland by the violent wind before mentioned, which
likewife had contributed to cool the air, infomuch, as to make the
thermometer tall feven degrees.
We
40 TRAVELS
Wc experienced additional plcafurc every time the fiflicrmen
returned from their labour. Joy feemed to brighten up their
countenances ; their approach was announced to us long before
we law them, by the flocks of fea fwallows (Jierna htrundoy Lin.)
which hovered in the air, feeming, by their cries, to welcome their
arrival on the fhorc. Thefc birds feed on the fmall fifties, which
the fifticrmcu caft out to them, or leave in the boats when they
clear out their nets. There appeared to be an agreement and underftanding
betwixt the nacn and thefe birds, which depend upon
the fiftiery for fubfiftencc and fupport during this feafon. They
came duly at the fame hour in the morning, as if to inform the
fifticrmcn it was time to begin their work ; and the latter needed
no other regulator. The birds fet off with the boats, and ferved
the fiftiers as guides in tlie profccution of their calling, by hovering
over thofe parts of the lake where the fifh were colleftcd in the
largeft ftioals. The fight of thefc birds is particularly keen, fo
that when the fiftiermen heard their cries, and law them plunging
into the water, they knew thole were the moll proper places to
caft their nets in with a probability of fuccefs ; and herein they
wxre fure not to be deceived, but, on the contrary, never failed to
take the moft fifti where they were direfted by the birds. The
fifticrmcn had fuch an attachment to thefc fwallows, that they exprefled
much uneafinefs whenever we feemed dclirous to take
feme of them by way of fpecimens. The birds were become fo
tame .and familiar, that they would feize the fmall fifti in the
nets, and even in the boats, in the prefence of the fifticrmcn
;
and
THROUGH LAPLAND. 4
and they were fo nimble in their flight, that if a lifli was thrown
up into the air, they would dart down upon it, and catch it In its
defeent before it reached the water. As the fifhcrmcn appeared
to be apprehenfivc that they would leave them if a gun was to be
fired off, I made a trial of taking them by means of a hook and
line. Accordingly I contrived to bury a hook in the body of a
fifh, and holding the other end of the ftring, to throw the bait at
fome diftance from me: but this contrivance was attended with
no fuccefs ; for fuch is their keennefsrof fight, that they difeovered
the device, and though they feized the fifli, they would not gorge
it when they found it was made faft to a ftring.
It has been already mentioned that we remained three days on
this ifland ; and we made this ftay in order to prepare and take
proper nicafures for purfuing our journey. Every thing depended
on the chance of meeting w ith wandering Laplanders, w ho might
affift us tq crofs the mountains with their rein-deer, and flicw us
the paffages through which we might continue our route. In
order to afeertain the probability of this, we f^t forw^ard one of
the fiflicrmcn from off the ifland to engage any he might meet
with, and appoint a place where we mightJoin them. Our envoy
had full power to treat, and make them fuch propofals as he (hould
judge would be accepted. He fet off, and promifed to be back
in four and twenty hours. On the fecond day after his departure
we became uneafy ; but when the third day palTcd without his
returning, the fiflicrmcn, his comrades, grew alarmed, and were
at a loft to account for this delay. Alone as he w as and crofling
VoL. U. G an
42 TRAVELS
an uninhabited country, he was in no danger of harm from any
living creature, except the bear, which in the fummer is far from
being ferocious. He might, indeed, have fallen down a precipice,
or loft his way in the w'oods, and fo have been unable to recover
the boat. The fifliermcn were preparing to fet out in fcarch of
him, and we began to dcfpair of being able to proceed any farther,
when, to the great fatisfaftion of all of us, he made his appearance.
He related to us, that having been difappointed in meeting
with Laplanders on the iVeareft mountains, he was unwilling
to go back w ithout elfcefting the objeft of his miffion, and went
onwards, until at length he fell in with two families, whom he
condudlcd with him to the banks of a rivulet called Reftijoki,
where he had left them w^aiting until wx joined them.
This intelligence was the fignal for our departure from the
ifland. Our tent was taken down and packed up, and bidding
adieu to our fiflicrmcn we fet forward.
We foon reached the mouth of the rivulet, on tlie banks of
wdiich the rendezvous was appointed. We afeended it through
all its w^indmgs, and .w ere impatient to join the Laplanders, left
they ftiould think us long in coming, and grow tired of waiting
for us, for we had conceived no high opinion cither of their patience
or their complaifancc. At length we arrived where they
were. The party was compofcd of fix men and a young girl.
We found them feated under a birch-trcc, on the branches of
which they had hung up the provifions for the journey, which
coufifted of dry fifli. They lay along the ground in different pofturcs.

rx
THROUGH LAPLAND.
tures, furrounding a large fire by which they roafted their fifli,
which, for this purpofe; was held in cleft flicks, cut from the tree
w'hich fhaded them. The girl was who perceived
us, and pointed us out to the men, Who feaned to pay attention
only to their cooking, fo that welandcdf and walked up to
them, without being the leafl noticed or raided. The men
were clothed in a kind of fmock-frock, made of the fkin of, the'
rein-deer, with a collar eredl, and flrffehcd behind.. They wore
a belt about their waifls, which confined their drefs Clofc to their
bodies, and drew it into the form of a bag, wherein they put
whatever they had occafion to carry about witji them. They had
pantaloons on, likewife made of rein-deers fkin, with fliort boots,
the foies of which were wide, and fluffed out with dry grais. The
girl wore pantaloons and boots of the fame fhape ; but her clothe
ing was of wool, and her cap,
^ which was made of green clotbi
was pointed upwards. They were mofl of them very fhort ; and
their mofl remarkable features were their fmull cheeks, fliarp chins,
and prominent check bonesJ The face of the girl was not im-;
handfome ; fhe appeared to be about eighteed or nineteen yeai^
of age ; her complexion was fair, with light hair approaching to
a chefnut colour. Four out of the fix men had black hair ; from:
whence I conclude this to be the prevailing colour amongfl the
Laplanders, diflin^ifhtng dieih from, the Finlander^, aniiOHS^
whom, during the whole of my d^^
who had hair of that colour. .
The perfons and drefs of thefe Laplanders, taken altogether,
G 2 were
A4 TRAVELS
were the mod filthy and difagrccablc that it is poffible to conceive.
They held the fifli they were eating in their hands, and
the oil that diftillcd from it ran down their arms, and into the
flccves of their coats, which might be feented at the diftaiice of
fomc yards. The girl had rather more cleanliiicfs in her perfon,
and fome portion of that decency which is fo peculiar *to her fcx.
This was apparent in her refufmg the drink that was offered to
her, and efpecially brandy, of which fhc was in reality as fond as
the men. This affedation of modefty and rcludance in women
to poffefs what they wifli for, but wdiich at the fame time they
apprehend would be unbecoming, appear to be qualities inherent
in the fcx, fince this prudery is obfervable even among women
in Lapland.
We now fet about landing our baggage, and fettling accounts
with our honeft Finlanders, who had faithfully and duly attended
us from Muonionifea, and brought us fafely fo far on our journey.
We had conceived a great regard for thefe worthy men; and wc
perceived, on parting with them, a tear of affedion ftealing down
\
their cheeks, which* demanded a fimilar acknowledgment. They
took leave of us, returning their thanks, and taking us by the
hand ; and fo ftrongly did we feel in our own hearts the like
cordiality of fentiment, that wc could not refafe them fuch a
token of familiarity and regard. Tlic Laplanders, notwithftanding
the natural phlegm of their temper, did not remain inatten-.
tive obfervers of the feene that was paffing before them, and could
not but derive from it a favourable opinion of us, and even find
their
THROUGH LAPLAND. 45
their zeal excited to fome exertion for our fervicc, if it be poffible
to excite the leaft fentiment in minds fo torpid as theirs. We
were not, however, difplcafed that they were witnefles of the fatisfadlion
wc had given our Finlanders, and the regret they expreiU-d
on parting with us ; and we hoped this example would infpirc
them with refpeft for us, and a defire to ufc all the activity neceffary
to accomplifli the objeft for which wc had engaged them.
After our Finlanders had taken their leave, and were departed,
wc found ourfelvcs as It were cut off from all communication
with the reft of the world ; the completion of our enterprize, nay,
our very exiftcnce, were at once in the hands of thefe Laplanders.
If the continuation of our journey appeared to be impradicable,
and they fliould forfakc us, there was no means of return to
the little ifland, and the fifliermcn of Kantafari ; for wc had no
longer a boat to convey us acrofs the lake to that charming retreat,
which wx had fo lately ejuitted, and with fo much regret. But
to quiet our apprehenfions, wc confidcred that thefe Laplanders
were not a cruel people; and although they were feven in number/
with the girl, wc confidcred ourfelvcs as 4 match for them,
notwithftanding wc only muttered four altogether, that is to fiiy
the interpreter, a fervant. Colonel Skidldcbrand, and myfelf. The
reafon why they came fo many in number as feven, was in order
to tranfport our baggage ; bccaule, as they informed us, the reindeer
were at this feafbn particularly untra6lablc and dangerous,
on account of the prodigious fwarms of mufquctccs, which torment
them to a degree of madnefi : fo that perhaps they might
run from us and be loft altogether with our provifions and baggage,
40 TRAVELS
gage, a circumftancc which would leave us in a very unpleafant
fituation. We left it to them to divide our baggage into feven
parcels, one for each, including the girl, who was to be made to
carry her proportion. We remarked a degree of equity in the
diftribution of the burthens, which imprefled us with no unfavourable
idea of the charaftcr of thefe people. We obferved that they
gave the lighteft packets to fuch as appeared unequal to a heavier
load. To excite in them an attention to juftice, and to each
other, we gave each of them a glafs of brandy when they fet about
making the divifion, promifing them another when it was made.
On beginning their march they aflced for a third, and though w'c
feared this third glals w^ould intoxicate them, yet we durft not
difplcSfe them by a refufal. In order to induce us the more readily
to comply wdth their requeft as to a third glafs, they quoted
a Lapland proverb as their authority for it, which fays, Before
a journey take a glafs for the bodys fake; at fetting offtake
another for courage fake.* At length we began our marcli,
each of our Laplanders with his load of baggage, one of them
taking the lead, and the reft following one by one in linglc file.
This was the firft time during our whole journey that we had
travelled in this manner, and we were wonderfully delighted with
the fingular appearance which our caravan made. We kept in
the rear of the line of march, in order that wx might fee that no
part of our baggage was dropt or loft, and moreover to obferve the
condud of thofc that went before. The plcafurc we had in reviewing
this proceflion was deftroyed by the intolerable ftench
which thefe filthy Laplanders left behind them, when they began
to
THROUGH LAPLAND. 47
to pcrfplre. It was beyond what 1 am able to dcfcribc ; and
were I ever fo equal to the talk, I am lure the reader would not
thank me for the perufal of lb ill-favoured a compofition.
The degree of heat was twenty-nine in the lliade, and forty-five
in the fun. The ground burned our feet ; and the few" flirubs w^e
met with in our w'ay afforded us little or no (belter. We were
almoft fulFocated with heat ; and to add to our fufferings, we wxrc
under the neceflity of w^earing a drefs of thick woollen cloth, aa
a fecurity from the infeds, and to cc^cr our faces w'ith a veil,
which in a great mcafurc prevented our drawing breath. This
extraordinary degree of heat fbon operated moft powerfully upon
our Laplanders, who had already fwallowed three glalfcs of brandyeach.
They laid themfclvcs dowm to reft at every Ihort diftance^
and were calling out every moment for more brandy. We foon
difeovered that we had no longer to do with Finlanders, who are
a fober, robuft, aftive, and hardy race of people. We had now
to deal w ith a fet of wretches who eared only for fermented liquors,
and were unwilling to work. In this manner w'c went on
for fix miles from the beginning of our journey*, m which diftance
they ftopped to take reft about fifty times, and as many times
each of them alked for brandy. If we had not come to the rclblution
to deny them when they alked, we Ihould have made no
progrefs that day. They were dying with thirft, and the firft
fpring they came to they dipped their heads in, like fo many pigs,
and drank lull as large draughts. We were at very confidcrablc
trouble throughout the whole of this journey, both in making
our Laplanders go on and in keeping them from ftraggling.
When
48 TRAVELS
When one tumbled down, the whole line of march was ftbppcd ;
when the word halt was given, all the caravan threw itfclf on the
ground ; and it was not without much entreaty that wc could
get the individuals of it to raift; thcmfelves again on their legs.
We were nearly fix hours in going fix miles. At length wc
reached the borders of a fmall lake called Kevijervi, on the right
of which a chain of mountains extends itfclf, and forms the
boundaries of Finmark, or Norwegian Lapland, and Swcdifli
Lapland. On the borden of this lake wc found two boats which
were in a moft fliattcrcd condition, full of leaks, with oars that
were fplit and of unequal lengths. Thefc boats were built by
the Laplanders, and left in the place mentioned, buried in fnow
during the winter, and expofed to alL weathers. Such were the
boats in which we were now to crofs this lake, about a mile
over, and the only conveyance that could poflibly Jbe procured
for this purpofe. Two Laplanders rowed, and two more fcooped
out the water, which flowed in at fevcral leaks as faft as they
could throw it out : and had they ccaftd baling, the boats would
\
have filled in a ffiort fpacc of time, and we ftiould all have gone
to the bottom. Yet, notwithftanding that wc were all placed
in this perilous fituation, we obferved, not without great indignation,
that our Lapland rowers plied their oars, and pulled as
leifurcly, and with as much phlegmatic calmnefs, as if there had
not been the leafl; occafion for their exertion.
CHAPTER
THROUGH LAPLAND. 49
CHAPTER VI.
The Plant Angelica, accmlffted delicious Food hy the Laplanders :its
falutary QualitiesThe Mol^ation from the Mu/quctoes augmented
Arrive at the river PepojovaiviMeet voith fome Lapland
Fijhermen, and two Children^Manners of thefe People ; Behaviour
ofthe Children- The Laplanders cook their Supper : their
Mode of EatingSufpicion they entertain of thefuppofed Emiffaries
of GovernmentThe Mffionarks in LaplandNotions of
the Laplanders concerning Religion and civil IrflitutionsTheir
unfocial Way of LivingIncreafe of Wolves in Lapland during
late YearsJourney purfued in Boats, on the River Pepojovaivi.
TT 7E gained at laft the oppofite banks of the lake, and without
^ any accident. Our Laplanders quitted the boats, and we
purfued our journey on foot as before. On the^order of this lake,
one of thefe people Ijiying a certain plant, ran to gather it, and
devoured it with as much avidity as if it had been the moft delicious
morfel in the world. It was the famous plant Angelica,
the chief luxury of the North, and which is deemed a very great
antifcorbutic. Being defirous of tailing it, one was given to me,
and I found it fo agreeable to my palate, that I foon became
lender of it than even the Laplanders thcmfelves. I am fully
VoL. II. H convinced
50 TRAVELS
convinced that I owe to this plant the uninterrupted good health
which I enjoyed during all the time I was in thofc parts ; where
wc had nothing ehc for our fubfiftence than dried or falted hfli,
the dried flefli of the rein-deer, hard chceft, bifeuit, and brandy
;
all of them heating and infalubrious aliments. The angelica w'as
the only thing that was frelh, and the only vegetable that we had
at our table. My companion, who had no rclifli for this plant,
was often troubled with pains in his ftomach, and with indigeftion.
Though it was now dravtfing towards midnight, tlie torment
wc fuffered from the mufquetoes, inftead of being abated was
increaied. The night was pcrfcdly calm, and the infeifls attraded
by the effluvia of our Laplanders, purfued us in our
courfe, furrounded us, and involved us as in a cloud. After travelling
three miles over the rein-deer mofs, and through Hunted
Ihrubs, wc arrived greatly fatigued at the banks of the river Pcpojovaivi,
where we found a fire with fomc Lapland filhermen
fitting by it, and two cliildren about five or fix years of age.
Wc began to m^ke preparations for pafflng the night here, and
the Laplanders let about cooking their fupper. The mufquetoes
this night annoyed us fo terribly, that it was not without the utmoft
difficulty wc were able to fwallow a morfel of viduals.
There was not fb much as a breath of wind ; the column of
fmokc that iffiicd from the fire mounted firaight upward in the
atmofphcrc, fb that we were deprived of the benefit of fumigation,
and of taking what food we had, under the protedion of a
cloud
THROUGH LAPLAND. 5
cloud of fmokci Wc were obliged to cat with gloves on ; and
at every morfel we put into our mouths we were under the
ncceflity of drawing afide the veils that covered our faces, very
gently and with great circumfpedion, for fear of the infers entering
along with our refrclhmcnt. In fpitc of all our prcc aution>
the mufquetocs were fometimes fwallowed together with our
viands. In order to be quit of fo dlfgufting a faucc, we were
compelled at each morfel we put into our mouths, to draw near
the fire, and thruft our heads into tli^ rifing column of finokc.
Wc chofc rather to encounter all the bad effects of the fmokc,
and to be half fuffocated, than to fwallow tlioft pefitiferous animals.
In order to remedy the inconveniency occafioncd by the defect
of a breeze, which might waft the fmoke horizontally, and thus
make us partakers of its kind influence, w^c bethought us of the
following contrivance : wc kindled three fires around us, in the
midft of which wx were glad to remain, notwithftanding the cxceflive
heat. I cannot at this moment account to myfclf why
wc did not think of fetting up our tent, under t^hich wc certainly
Ihould have enjoyed greater comfort, and have been Icfs tormented
by the infects. Perhaps it was, that wc did not expect to
remain long in this place, and becaufc the erection of our tent
always took up fomc time ; or it might be too carefully packed up,
or perhaps we had not the means at hand of erecting it. It often
happens that a perfon does things for which he afterwards can
afiign no direct rcafbn, though at the time he may have had fatisfactory
grounds for his proceedings.
53 TRAVELS
After fupper we employed ourfelves in obferving all the manners
and actions of the Laplanders, in order to form an idea of
their mode of living. With this view we propofed fcveral queftions
to them. The two children were chubby, robuft, and
hearty. They did not feem to be at all ftruck with furprife or
awe at our appearance, nor were they in the leaft difcompolcd by
our prefence, or put out of their ufual way. They went to the
river and fetched water, which they would fometimes throw on
our flioes, and fometimes (|n our baggage. They did fome damage
or other to every thing they laid their hands on, and deranged
whatever was within their reach ; yet the Laplanders took no
more notice of the childrens behaviour, than if they had not
cxilled. They law all their motions ; they fuffered all the mifehief
they did with the moft perfect indifference. They cared for nothing.
The children feemed to be the fovercigns of the place.
The Laplanders never faid fo much as one word to them of any
kind. They never obferved that it was not well done to throw
water on the Ihoes of ftrangers, or gave them any leffons relpecting
good manner^nd propriety of conduct. Thefe, indeed, are
terms and ideas with which the' Laplanders are wholly unacquainted;
and their only mode of training up their children is not
to train them at all.
In the mean time, while the children were thus engagbd in
doing all the mifehief in their power, the old Laplanders were
bulled in cooking their fupper, which confifted of various filh cut
into pieces and boiled in a pot, together with fome dried fat of
the
THROUGH LAPLAND. 53
the rcin-dccr and a little meal : the whole formed a curious kind
of mefs. While the pot was ftill on the fire, all the Laplanders
fat around it, each with a fpoon in his hand, for the purpofe of
tailing when the foup was ready : when fufficiently boiled, they
began to partake of the mefs out of the fame pot altogether. When
any one ha*d taken as much as fatished him, he fell afleep, and
when he awoke he immediately began to eat again while others
flept ; then thefe would awake, and again cat, while the former
elapfed into his flumber ; and thus djey alternately cat and flept
till they were fatisfied with the one, hnd incapable of taking more
of the other. There did not appear to be any kind of rule or
order among thofc people ; no beginning of any thing, and no
end. Their only regulator and guide feemed to be appetite and
inilinct.
When they were not occupied with either eating or fleeping,
they fmoked tobacco. With one or two who preferred fmoking
to fleeping we had an opportunity of holding fome converfation,
in the courfe of which they alked us fome queflions. They enquired
if any one of us was the king, or a pm of the king, or a
commiflary of the king ? They dcfired to know, why wc came
into their country ? and what we were going to do there ? I difcoYered
that thele people entertained fufpicions that we were
emilTarics from government, fent to fpy their fituatipn and condition,
their wealth, and their conduifl. From a great deal of
jargon in a langnage, but little of which was intelligible even to
our interpreter, we found out the'ur objcl was to convince us of
their
<4 TRAVELS
their great poverty. The anfwers they made to our qucftlons were
not fo frank and plain as might have been expelled from fuch
fimplctons. The paflions which fo often make men of fenfe ad
like fools, Ibmetimcs give art and addrefs to the moft ftupid ; and
there is none of thole paflions lb much adapted to produce effeds
of this kind as felftihnefs, and an anxious intereft to proted property.
When the kings of the North, animated by a fpirit of religion
and piety, fent miflionariesjinto thofe forlorn regions to preach
the Golpel and propagate the Chriflian religion, the raiflionaries
did not only make the poor natives pay the expences of their
journey, but allb gave them to underfland that they were to be remunerated
for- their trouble. That wandering people had hitherto
lived without priefts, and without any kind of burthen ; in fad,
becaufe they were too poor to pay to the exigencies offlate^ They
worlhippcd in their own way, juft how and when they plcafed, a
number of gods, who coft them nothing, except now and then a
facrilic'e, which they thcmfclves ate up, and of which they left
nothing to their dcitjes but the bones and horns.
At firft, it may be prefumed, they were not a little chagrined
at being called on to lharc their wealth with ftrangers, whom they
conceived they could do very well without. Being weak from
indolence and idlencls, as well as natural conftitution, dilperled>
difunited by their manner of life, attached only to their herds,
and incapable of combining among themfdves, in order to form
any plan ofoppolition and refiftance, th^ lubmiflivefy, and. without
THROUQH LAPLAND. 55
out reluctance, believed whatever the priefts deemed proper to
tell them, and tamely and indolently gave up a part of their good
things in order to preferve the reft. The priefts, on the other
hand, followed the fame principles in Lapland, no doubt, as in
other countries, and were not more zealoully concerned for the
falvation of 'fouls, than careful that no one ftiould go without the
benefit of their inftruCtions, who poiTefifed fomc hundreds of reindeer.
The poor ignorant Laplanders paid with tolerable patience
the contributions required by thetmiftionaries, who promifed
them happineft in another world, which probably, according to
their limited conceptions, would confift in drinking brandy from
morning to night. Nothing opens mens eyes fo cffcdually as
their interefts ; and on what account, or by what rule of right or
rcafon, they arc compelled to fliare their property with the commilTarics
of government, from whofc police, laws, and jufticc,
they derived no manner of advantage, is a matter of which they
have no conception. In faft, thc^ look upon rulers and their
commiffarics in no other light than that of robbers, who like to
live in calc and luxury, at the expence of others, without taking
the trouble, like themfelves, of following the rein-deer, or even
being at the pains either of fiftiing or hunting. They have no
idea of the utility of vifitors from whom they derive no protection
or benefit, and whom they confider merely as men. who eat
and drink, .and confume the fubftance of hundreds of other men.
Such are the notions entortained by the true, or vagabond Laplanders,
who xeBaain m their native deftrts, and who, Ihut up in their
mountains,
TRAVELS 5
mountains, never approach near enough to civilized focieties to
acquire any ideas of their form and conftitution. Free by nature,
their manner of living exempts them from the ncccffity of laws.
They dwell in a country which cannot be inhabited by any other
race of mortals. They feed their rein-deer with a vegetable rejeded
by every other animal. Their only focicty crJnfifts in the
union of a few families drawn together partly by common wants,
and partly by focial affedion : and when two fuch families, with
their herds, chance to mee^on the fame fpot, there is land enough
for the one to accoll the' other in the words of Abraham to
Lot : If thou wilt take the left hand, then I will go to the
right ; or if thou depart to the right hand, then I will go to
the left.
It was not without extreme difficulty that we were able to
perfuade our Laplanders that we were neither kings nor commiffaries,
nor priefts, but only private individuals who were travelling
from mere curiofity. The principle of curiofity, which exifls
only in cultivated minds, and which is derived cither from felfintereft,
in fearch of fomething that may be advantageous, or from
the pride of knowing more than other men, or from a dclire of
comparing what is already known with fomc olgcd or objeds not
yet knownthis principle is obvioufly too abftrufe, and can in
no wife enter into the head of a roving Laplander. During the
whole of our intercourfe with thefe people, we could, never difcover
among them the fmallefl: fign of any fentiment of religion
or devotion. They never offered up any prayer to the Deity
when
THROUGH LAPLAND. S7
when they went to eat, nor when they retired to reft, nor at rifmg
in the morning.
Exadly at the hour of midnight, when tlie fun was elevated
about two diameters above the horizon, w'c had an inclination to
try the experiment, whether we could not light our pipes by
means of a burning-glafs. The attempt fucccedcd completely.
At this phenomenon the Laplanders flicwed greater emotion and
wonder than they had yet done on any other occafion. We had
a notion that they began to take us forjbrcercrs ; and under this
idea we put Ibme queftloiis to them on the fubjeft of forccry,
ol' which we had heard fo much in all the accounts of Lapland.
We afkcd them, whether they believed that there were any forccrcrs
in their country ? They faid, no : and that they did not
care whether there were any or not. To all our queries they
anfvvered with an air of extreme inditfcrcncc, and in a manner
that feemed to Indicate that they were fick of our infipld conver-
(iition. We foon perceived that all our queftions made no other
imprclTion on their minds than to awaken jcaloul)^, and to put
them more and more on their guard ; and to convince them that
we were commilTaries fent amongft them by government. When
we enquired of them where their rein-deer were, and how many
they had, they replied, that they were very poor ; they had formerly
twenty- four, but that only feven remained, all the reft
tiaving been devoured by the wolt If we had not been aware
hat the preceding year had been a dreadful one to the Laplan-
Icrs, by rcafon of the immenfe quantities of wolves that poured
VoL. 11. I in
58 TRAVELS
in amongft them and devoured their flock, we fliould have been
induced to fuppoie that the account they gave of the prefent
flnall number of their rein-deer, was intended to convince us of
their poverty, and how unable they were to bear any contribution
that might be demanded. ^ Blib initelligence of their difafters
in that terrible year had reached-iSs far as Uleaborg ; and it was
even urged by our good friends there as a reafon why we Ihould
give up all thoughts of our projefled journey. They faid, that as
paore than a third of tl^te rein-deer bad been deflroyed by the
wolves, it would not be an eafy matter for the Laplanders to furnifh
a fufiicient number of thele animals for conveying us on, in
our long ,and hazardous expedition.
It is a lingular phenomenon, that the number of wolves in
Lapland has increafed very fcnfibly every year fince the commencement
of the lafl war in Finland. The Laplanders believe
that this war chafed away the w'olves from Finland, and forced
them to take refuge in the north ; jufl in the fame manner, perhaps,
as the prefent inhabitants of Finlaiid, lit their progrefs wxflward
from Afiafdrove the old Fins into the wildemefs, in which
they now fojourn. This reafon, however, feems not fo well founded
as to give any folid fatisfaflion. We know from experience
that the wolves arc difpofed to- follow the courfe of w'ar, and to
feed on the victims ofour broils and contefls, rather than to Ihun
and fly away from them. I mufl therefore refer the increafe of
wolves in X,apland to fomc unknowrn caufe, which 1 do not pretend
to penetrate.
Wr
THROUGH LAPLAND. S9
*.
\Vc now prepared for our journey to Kautokicno, under the
confohitory refteftion that we fliould henceforth efcape the obftaclcs
and latigucs we had hitherto met with from the adverfe currents
of the rivers. This was the firft time we had feen any river,
whofc waters were in tlicir progrefs to lofc themfclvcs in the iminenfe
extent of the Frozen Ocean. If we had been oppofed by
Inch cataradls as thofc of Muonio, it would, doubtlefs, have been
impoffiblc for us to have proceeded any farther. But happily the
dangers to be encountered in the catarj^fts of the river of Pepojovalvi,
were not unproportioned to the'Avant of vigour and Ikill of
the Laplanders, who were to be our attendants. Thofe feeble,
aukvvard, and hclplcfs beings, were embarrafled and at a ftand on
the Icaft difficulty ; and every (lone to them feemed a mountain.
The Hate of their boats w^as deplorable ; their oars were difproportloned
to one another, and without any regular form. They
were no other than fticks of wood cut and hacked into fomething
like an oar, in the moft negligent manner. Lazinefs and ftupidity
were prominent in all the Laplanders did, in all that apper*
tained to them. The only things that they were able%ftively to
perform, were to keep up an cvcrlafting chatter, to fmoke their
pipes, to chew tobacco, and to drink brandy.
I2 CHAPTER
6o TRAVELS
CHAPTER Vir.
Pqffage on the Rher PcpojovaiviMarnier of Fijhing ufed hy the
LaplandersThe Rher Pepojovatviformingfeveral Lakes during
its Conrfty and emptying iifelf into the River Alien, near Kauiokehio
Immenfe Qnaniitfof Fi/h in thofe LakesSport of Shooting
on the RiverDifferent Species of Birds-^Some farther Characteriftics
of the wandering LaplandersArrival at Katitokeino
Schoohnafter of this Place^LaplandiJh SingingThe Mnjic of
this Country.
TT7HEN wc embarked on the Pepojovaivl, we left the young
^ ^ woman, who was the daughter of one of our Laplanders,
on the banks of the river. We now proceeded with our fix men,
which were in truth more than wc had occafion for : but they
W'cre dcfirous individually to get fome money with very little
trouble. We had two boats, with three Laplanders in each, who
had diftributed their offices in the follow ing manner : one of them
rowed, another managed the .helm, and a third fcooped out the
water that entered into the boat inceffantly. Inftead of going
ftraight down the river, they made a turn without faying a word
to us, in order to look at fome nets which they had fpread a day
or two before. We perceived this deviation, when, inftead of
following
THROUGH LAPLAND. 6i
following the courfe of the Pepojovaivi, they made up againft the
current of a fmall and fmooth river, which falls into the former.
They would give no farther account of this change in their move*
ment, than by faying that they were doing what was right, and
that they would condud us in good time to Kautokeino according
to our dcfirc. As we* had not any tolerable maps of this part
of Lapland, and were totally unacquainted with the rivers or
lakes that we might have to pafs, we could not make any vigorous
oppofition to what our guides inrfbndcd, and therefore judged
it expedient to take no notice of what they did for fome time, but
wait and fee the rcfult of this new circumllance. It was not long
before we dlfcovcred that their objcA was to draw the nets and
carry off all the fifh they could find. Thefc nets were torn in 6
many places, that the fiflics might make their cfcape with little
difficulty ; but the quantity of them was fo great, that feme, were
found in every part of the net that was entire. The manner of
fiQung in Lapland is this : they have their nets fpread, and always
ftanding in the water; they repair to them and draw them in
whenever they want fiffi, which they dry iivthe air, and by the
heat of the fun. Nature has done every thing for thofe people ;
and in proportron to her profufe bounty is their abominable indolence.
The fifliermcn of the ifle of Kintafari were very different
in their habits and difpofitions from thofe of Pepojovaivi. All
their apparatus for fiffiing was in the moft excellent order: their
boats were found, their nets whole and faultlcfs, and they drew
them when they call them. But the Kintafari fiflrers were not
erratic
i)2 TRAVELS
erratic but fixed Laplanders, or rather a Finnifli colony cftablllhed
in Lapland. Thefc inhabitants of Kintafari preferve all the original
boWnels of charader* force and adlivity, by which the Fins
arc diftinguifhed ; whereas the unfettlcd and wandering Laplanders
are remarkable for lloth and dirt.
Having returned to the river Pepqovaivi, we fell down by that
ftrcatn to Kautokeino, where it empties itfelf into the river Altcn,
after a courfe of forty Englifli miles from the place where we fet
out. The river Pepojovaivv is every where intercepted by lakes,
or, more properly fpcaking, it often Ipreads and makes lakes,
which, being fringed with birch and fir-trees, offered the mofl
plcafing views, and rendered our voyage very interefting and agreeable.
We were aflonifhcd at- the incredible quantity of filhos
with which thofe lakes abound, and which leap every inflant to
catch inledls above the furface of the water. Our Laplanders
thcmfelvcs were furprifed at their abundance, and agreed, on their
return, to come there and let dow'n their torn and ragged nets.
The catara^s of the river Pepojovaivi were not at all confiderable,
nor were they in th^ leaft dangerous. Our good Finlanders, and
above all our pilot Simon of Kollare, would not have thought it
worth while to mention fuch a voyage : but it was a very arduous
undertaking for our Laplanders, who found themfelves under embarralTments
at every turn. Being inured to the navigation of ca>
taraAs, we could encounter their difficulties and dangers without
emotion, and were of courfe more fitted to extricate our. company
out of any untoward circumftance than the Laplanders, who,
without
* "THROUGH LAPLAND. 63
without our affiftance, would probably on many occafions have
been diflicartencd. They had not the leaft knowledge of the
depth of a current from the appearance of the furface, and of two
courfes prefcntccl to their option, they were always furc to clnife
the worft and the fliallowxft. Through their awkwardnefs and
t
ftupidity, we were obliged to pafs a confiderable part of our journey
along the river on foot. 1 have not a doubt but our Simon,
through the cataradls of Muonio, w'ould have difeovered with a
glance of his penetrating eye, fomc j^lace where the boats might
have pafled in fafety. Tw^o of our Laplanders came out of
their refpedive boats, and in each one remained. One of thofe
who landed drew the boat along by means of a rope made of the
l)ark of the birch-tree ; the other, with a rope made of the fame
materials, checked and moderated its motion when the current
wMs too rapid. If at any time the Laplanders who were on foot
on the banks of the river, chanced to fpy any plant of the angelica,
they would immediately run to gather it ; and having their
hands full of this herb, they would rather lo/e hold of the ropes
and let the boats ftrike on rocks, than quit tj;ic delicious vegetable.
Sometimes when we were in the boat, they would chatter among
thcmfelvcs at fuch a rate, or be immerfed fo profoundly in the
pleafures of the pipe, that they took no manner of notice of approaching
dangers; to which, of courfe, we were obliged to be
ourfelvcs attentive : and even when we did give them warning,
they w^ould rather let the boats drive againft any obftacle, than interrupt
or difeompofe the bufinefs of eating angelica, or fmoking
tobacco.
64 TRAVELS
tobacco. It happened once that having taken a falfe diredion, or
courfe, on a part of the river where it was rough and lliallow, they
were fo entangled among large Rones, as not to be able to move.
On this the Laplander who plied the oars rofe up from the bench
on which he fat, and by the feripus and decided air he put on, we
judged that his intention could be no lefs than to make Ibme powerful
effort for our extricatbn from the prelcnt embarraffment
:
He began, however, immediately to loofen a part of his drefs, and
was fo unpolitc as to give Vay to a very prcffing want of nature
in our prefencc. I will not tire my readers at prefent with any
farther details on the manners and habits of thofe people. What
has been already mentioned may fuffice to give a tolerably juft
idea of their charadcr and deportment. W,c were every inftant
on the point of loling all patience with them. But for want of
geographical informatibn, and from the need we had of them, we
were, in a great mcafure, under their power, and therefore obliged
to put up with all their ftupidity, lazinefs, and beaftlinefs.
Before we come to Kautokeino, I cannot forbear giving fome
account of the plcafagt amufement of the chafe, which we enjoyed
on this river. Our Laplanders had taken a dog with them, and
as the animal was not admitted into one of the boats, he was
obliged to follow us as well as he could. This poor creature, by
his aftions, and the means he ufed for keeping up with us, Ihewed
a great deal more adlivity, fenfe and contrivance than the human
beings of this country. When two ways lay before him, he never
failed to make choice of the beft : he had lakes to crofs, iHands to
traverfe.
THROUGH LAPLAND 65
travcrfc, and tracks to chufc, and during tlic \v1)olc of the route
was under a conftant nccdlity of obferving, coiiiparing, and deciding
; three operations of the mind with which the Laplanders
were but little acquainted. In the courfe ot his running along the
l^anksof the river, through Ihrubs and bruih\\oi)d, he llartcd Ionic
game, which, in thofe parts, during the iiunmer icafon, is very
plentiful. We fliot fome ducks of a fpeeies peculiar to tliole rcg!<
jiv>, the ii?his iih^ra of Liniiccus, fome geefe {jiuas iilhifnvinSy Lin.)
and a great number of groufc, which ar^ here very common, and
which, riling all of a fudden very near the boats, prefent an excellent
mark to the fportfman.
'Pile river of Pepojovaivi docs not pafs clofc to the village of
Kautokeino, but at the diilance of about a mile. That mile we
were obliged to walk on foot, and to have our luggage carried by
land. In walking over this fpacc, I fell in w'ith llimc birds, particularly
the curlew (Jcolopax arquatHy Lin.) which, to my altonlfliment,
I found in this country very fearlcfs and familiar, although
in other parts, and even at Ulcaborg, it is not to be approached
without the grcatcil difficulty. I killed two of thefe birds without
turning afide from my path : I brought down alfo fome
plover.
When vve arrived at Kautokeino, wdilch was about an hour after
midnight, we were furprifed to find the whole village in a ilatc of
alarm. All the women were at the doors ol their lioufcs in tlicir
fliifts, and tlic men in the ftrccts or rather lanes. Their terror
was occafioned by the reports of our fowling pieces; and it was
VoL. II. K not
66 TRAVELS
not without much trouble that our interpreter fucccedcd in quieting
their fears.
Among the Laplanders there was one whom they honoured
with the title of fchool-mafter. This appellation gave me a high
idea of Kautokeino ; and I expeded to meet with another parfon,
like the one of Muonionifea, who fliould come to tafte our brandy,
and Ipeak a little Latin^ mixed with the Lapponic : but the miniftcr
of Kautokeino happened at this time to be abfent. He had
gone, I underftood, into {Jorway, to tarry feme time with his relations.
The minifters, or miffionaries, do not ufually remain in
Lapland during the fummer months. We took polTeflSon of the
priefts houfe, or rather chamber, for it confiftcd only of one apartment.
Being thus lodged, and fomewhat recovered from our fatigues,
we were in a condition better qualified to become acquainted
with the village of Kautokeino, where we recognifed
ourfelvcs as fubjeft to the laws of Denmark.
Thc.firfl: thing we did was to pay our Lapland attendants. But
before we gave them their difmiffion, we w^rc determined to
make an experiment of their talents in another fpecies of know^-
Icdge than any in which we had yet tried them. We defired to
hear them fing, being anxious to have a fpecimen of their fkill in
mufic. I attempted fevcral times, both by the power of money
and of brandy, to make the paftoral Laplander utter his notes,
that I might form to myfelf, if poflible, fomc idea of their mufic :
but the utmoft I could accomplifli was to extort from them fomc
hideous cries, during the continuance of which I was fbmetimes
oblifyed
THROUGH L.\rLAND. 67
obliged to flop my ears with my fingers. It Is fcarccly credible,
though it is perfectly true, that the mountain and wandering Laplanders
have not the Icaft idea of any thing coniicded with harmony,
and that they arc abfolutcly incapable of an enjoyment
which nature has not entirely forbidden to any other tribe or nafion,
as far a5 I have been informed. Artificial mufic appears to
wholly baniflied from thofc forlorn and folitary diftrids The
ojily mufical accents to be heard in Lapland arc thofc which nahas
Indifcriminatcly bellowed on ail other countries, without
any regard to man, whofe pride induced him to believe that every
tiling in the world is made for him alone. The only melody to be
heard in Lapland is that wdth which the birds make the woods re*
echo ; that of the rivulets ruftling over their pebbly beds ; that of
the winds rcfoimding amidft the branches of trees and the deep
gloom of forefts ; and laftly, that of the majcftic fall of rivers over
rugged rocks, where the waters break with a crafhing noife, and
fend up their foam to the clouds. But that I may not leave my
reader altogether without an idea of Laplandifh finging, fuch as it
is, or rather of the vociferation of the wandering Laplanders, I
fliall prefent them with two fpccimens, which I find preferved in
my portfolio, among the various notifications of myJourney. I
put them on paper, while thofc poor creatures were ftraining their
throats, and the mufic is to be feen in the Appendix. They were
taken down without any regard to time or meafure, bccaufc they
had none ; nor arc they fo long by a third part as the original
fongs, bccaufe there was nothing but a continued repetition of
K 2 the
68 TRAVELS
the fame notes. The Laplanders, after exhaufting their breath,
perfevered in uttering the fame cry in a kind of fainting or fading
voice, as long as there was a partielc of air in their lungs. Their
mufic, without meaning and without mcafure, time or rythmus,
W'as terminated only by the total waftc of breath ; and the length
of the fong depended entirely on the largencfs of the ftomach,
and the ftrength of the lungs. With all my knowledge of the
mufical art, I was quite reduced to a nonplus amidft thofc muficians
of Lapland ; and I envied more than ever the fkill of the
Abbe Renauld ; an advantage which would have flood me in
great ftead in the circumftanccs in which I was then placed.*
While the Laplanders were uttering cries in the manner juft
deferibed, they articulated certain words, which induced me to
afk our interpreter their meaning, and whether they were any
verfes or fragments of poetry. But I foon learnt that their genius
for poetry did not tranfeend their turn for mufic. The
words they pronounced in their vociferation were only repetitions
of the fame expreflions over and over again. For example, A
good journey, my good gentlemengentlemengentlemen

gentlemena good journeyjourneyjourneymy good gentlcmcn

gentlemena good journeyjourneyjourneyjourney,
&c. and fo on as long as they were able to fetch any
breath : when this was exhaufted, the fong was ended.
^ The Abbe, in a note under the article Sivan^ in that part of BufTons work
which treats of birds, aflures us very gravely, que les crls clcs cygnes efi Joumts a un
rit/nne conjlant ct regie a la vicfure a deux tcuu, CEuvrCS dc Buffon, vol. xxiv.
page 125. Edition dc Paris, nss.
CHAPTER
THROUGH LAPLiVND, 69
CHAPTER VIII.
Situation of KaniokeinoBoundary hetvceen the Swcd'fh and Danlfh
TerritoriesAn lujhince of juji Reafoning on a political Topic
Baron Hermelins Maps of Szveden^ Finland, and LaplandDifficulty
of obtaining good Maps of thofe Countries : ihofe which exiji
arefarfrom being accurateDiverjity of Names given to thefame
Places, and confufon occafoned by this CircumjianccAnecdotes cf
the SchooUmafer of KaniokeinoDiftritt or Parifh ofKantokcino
Population and luhahitantsWandering Laplanders, and thofe
that have fixed HabitationsTheir Mode of LifeChafe of the
wild Rein-deerAnnual Fair at Kautokeino, and Traffic carried
onCattle and SheepLow FJlimation in which the latter are
heldDeparturefrom KautokeinoState of the JVeather and the
ThermometerJourney purfued in BoatsThe River Alten :
beautiful SceneryMufquetoes.
^^ ILL irrival, the village of Kautokeino Avas confidcred as ^ wholly infulatcd in the fummer
fcafbn, and inacccflible to
travellers. The furrounding diftrid: is dclcribed in the Danifli
book of geography as a country confifting of mountains, feparated
from each other by dangerous and impaflablc morafles. It was
this
70 TRAVELS
this circumftance that occafioncd the alarm at the report of our
guns. The inhabitants could not conceive from what caufe, or
from what quarter the thundering noife proceeded, as it could not
occur to them that they rniglit receive a \ ifit from any curious
ftrangers.
The village of Kautokeino is inhabited by four families and a
prieft, and it has a church. By the line of frontier agreed upon
in 1751, between Sweden and Denmark, Kautokeino was included
within the domiifions of the latter. Oh looking at the
map one is furprifed to fin^ here the boundary between tliefe two
kingdoms ; inftead of its following the ridge of mountains, which
forms a natural reparation to the fouth and the north in that corner
of Europe. By that arrangement the territory of Denmark
turns toward the fouth, and takes in an angle of Lapland, w hich
ought naturally to belong to Sweden. We did not fail to make
enquiry into the caufe of this fmgular deviation from apparent rcafon
and juftnefs, and we flattered ourfclves that we had traced it
to a fccret of ftatc, being informed that it was the effeft of bribery
and corruption. The Swedilli commilfary, we were told,
hud been induced to make a ceflion of the angle in queftion by
the power of Danifli gold ; and numerous extravagant anecdotes
were mentioned of this perfon, who was reprefented as much addided
both to wine and to women ; that care was taken to throw
in the way of this man of plcafure the whole luxury of Lapland
;
and that he w^as overcome by the manifold temptations held out
to him, and agreed to the divifion as before ftated.
Romantic
THROUGH LAPLAND. 7
Romantic as this account may appear, we were not backward
to give it credit. My companion particularly, who was a Swedilh
officer, aflented to it moft readily, like a good patriot, who dilcovered
with indignation a fraud committed againft the intcrefts of
his country. Wc made a thoufand political reflc6lions on the different
means and arts of corruption, and on the great value fet by
governments on trifling matters : wc thought that poffibly the
two powers had left this fmall territory in an unfcttlcd {late, in
order that they might not want a pretence, whenever they fliould
chufe to come to a rupture. If I might have been permitted to
do juflice to our political talents and acute inveftigation, I fliould
have fliid that wc difplayed great knowledge as well as eloquence
on the prefent fiibjed:. But alas! the fadt was, that all wc had
heard, and what had given rife to our faf^e obfervations, was a
mere fable. The true caufc of the eccentricity noticed in the
line of demarcation, was a thing perfedtly natural, and in conformity
with the treaty of 1 / 51 , between the courts of Stockliolnv
and Copenhagen, by which it was fettled that the boundary fliould
be fixed by the fourccs of rivers; that is to fay, that all that tradl
of country of which the rivers run into the Frozen Ocean, (hould
belong to Denmark: and on the other hand, all that fliould be
held as Swedifli Lapland, of which the rivers fall into the gulf of
Bothnia. More than a year after my journey to Lapland, I became
acquainted at Drontheim, the capital of the northern parts
of Norway, with the Danifh commiflliry who had hern employed
in this bufinefs, and from him I learned the true prmcipiv, <a !
72 TRAVELS
on which the divifion of the territory was founded. He laughed
very heartily at the fabulous account which I recited to him of
that matter.
I have already obferved, that we no longer derived any benefit
from maps, but wxre left wholly to our own rcfburccs. The bell:
maps of Sweden arc thofc publiflicd by Baron Hermelin : and
when it is confidcred that thefe have been executed at the expence,
and by the capacity and induftry of an individual, it is impoffiblc
to withhold the tribute of praife due to the diftinguiflied
zeal of his patriotifm. Baron Hermelin employs the greateft part
of his yearly income, which is very confiderable, in the promotion
of the geography, the natural hiftory, and a knowledge of the
political ftate of Sweden. He fends young men of genius to different
parts of the kingdom to take geographical furveys, to try
experiments, make obfervations in mineralogy, and to colled various
lUitiftical accounts. PTom their Iketchcs of particular diftrids
he forms his maps of the different divifions of Sweden. It is however
to be obferved, that thefe geographic;.! delineations, though
wonderfully exad for the work of an individual, derive their diftindion
and merit only from a comparifon with others Icfs corrcd.
In fad, they may be regarded as the only maps of Sweden
that have yet been publiflicd ; and what is more, they have been
completed fulely at that gentlemans own cxpcnce, and without
any aflillance fiom government. Sweden, P'inland, and Lapland,
have not yet been furveyed with that corrednefs w hich prevails in
the geographical reprefentatlons of France, of Britain, and other
countries
;
THROUGH LAPLAND. 73
countries ; every dlftrift and corner of which have been meafured,
and drawn with the greateft accuracy and precilion. Baron Ilcrmclins
maps are not compofed with all the rigour of trigonometry
; they are formed from views by the eye, in the fame manner
as the Iketchcs of ordinary furveyors or draughtfmen, v\ ho afcciul
to the top of* a particular mountain, and thence obtain a profped
of the circumjacent country from which they make their drawings.
Befidcs this, the natives are confultcd, who furnifli accounts
of diflerent matters within their knowledge, and particularly of
the names of hills, rivers, towns, and dthcr objedls. Lapland, if
we comprehend under it all thofc parts fo named in the wide extent
belonging to Swxden, Denmark, and Ruflia, is a country
of fuch immenfc fpacc, that it would be too great an enterprize
to attempt making an accurate meafurement of even the frontiers
of its different diftrids. Moreover, the fummer in. that climate
is fo fhort, the fatigue of penetrating through its moraffes and
furmounting other obftaclcs fo great, and the operations of a Juft
trigonometrical furvey would require fuch a length of time and
number of perfons, that there is but little hope of its being foon,
or ever accomplifticd. As to the winter feafon, the moft proper
for travelling in thofc northern and uncultivated countries, it involves
the difadvantage of obfeurity and darknefs ; and the fnow
every where covering the furfacc of the earth, rivers, and lakes,
to the depth of fcvcral yards, and prefenting in all places an uniformity
of appearance, makes it impoffiblc for the geographer to
diferiminate land from water.
VoL. 11. L With
74 TRAVELS
With regard to the names of places in Lapland, thefe will never
be fixed while Laplanders remain in the unfcttlcd ftatc of a
paftoral and wandering people. Thofc that have permanent habitations
arc wholly unacquainted with the names of mountains,
rivers, brooks, and lakes at any great dlftance, to which there is
little if any refort. The Laplanders who know the names of thefe
objeds, arc of the paftoral or erratic tribes. But here another difficulty
occurs. Various families of thefe Laplanders affociate together,
and thus wander* from place to place : and as the intercourfe
of thefe hordes with one another is but trifling, and of a
very tranfient nature, the language of each is marked by fuch
fliadcs of variety, that it can fcarccly be faid with propriety that
there is one Lapland tongue, common to all. Hence it happens
that the fame places have very diffimilar denominations, and that
a map of any diftrid under the guidance of one Lapland Ihepherd,
would not be recognized and underftood by a traveller who had
drawm a plan of the fame trad, under the condud and information
of another. An inftance of this diverfity of names, and the
inconvenience that naturally thence arifes, I experienced myfelf in
my progrefs from ]Pallojervi to Kautokeino. On my arrival at
this laft village, I was influenced to look over my names of places,
and the little map I had drawn ; all which I Ihcwed to an inhabitant
of Kautokeino. I found that the Laplander w^ho attended
us, and from whofe account I had projeded my geographical
fketch, had called the places by names totally different from thofc
by which the fame objeds were known to the people of Kautokeino.
THROUGH LAPLAND. 75
Among the Laplanders of Kautokeino was one, as I have mentioned,
who bore thcfpecious title of fchool-maftcr. This appellation
ftruck me very much ; for I had conceived that I was in a
place far removed from any fchool, or any iiiftitution for the piirpofe
of Inftrudion. The name of fchool-mafter w as as great a
iUbjeft of pride to this Laplander, as a red or blue ribband may be
to any one in the refined parts of Europe. He was, doubtlcfs, as
much gratified by the appellation of fchool-maftcr, as any one in
our ftatc of fociety may be by his ranl^of nobility, or other eminent
dlftindion. This fchool-maftcr, both in his pcrfonal appearance
and manners, was as complete a Laplander as his neighbours
around him, except that from feme defedlivc conformation of nature,
there w^as fomething very lingular and ludicrous in his mode
of walking, his feet being always turned out into what is called
by dancing- mafters the firft pofition.
Having pafled the frontiers of Lapland,* and continued fomc
time in Norway, he had learned the Danifli, or rather the Norwegian
language : and his knowledge of this opened an employment
to him the moft lingular and droll in its* nature of any that
ever fell under my obfervation in any country. The prieft, or
minifter, being wholly unacquainted with the Lapponian tongue,
cannot convey his fentiments to his audience, who know not any
other. To remedy this inconvenience, the fchool-mafter takes his
* Norwegian F.apland is named by the Danes and Norwegians Fimnark, I fliall
ftill, however, call it Lapland, in order not to confound the inhabitants of this
country with thofc of Finland j for both alttimc the a|)pcllation of Finlanders.
L 2 ftatlon
76 TRAVELS
llatii)n beneath the pulpit, and when the minifter has pronounced
one fcntcncc of his fcrnion he flops, and the fchool-mafler repeats
it to the congregation, in the language of Lapland. The cfleft
which the eloquence of the preacher, thus interrupted and mutilated,
mufl have on his audience, it is not difficult tp conceive. I
confefs I would have given, I know not how much, to have heard
this Laplander, and known what kind of tranflation he made of the
Danifli miffionarys fermons. As for the minifler, who underflood
not a word of what the fch.ool-maflcr fiiid in his name to the people,
he prefumed it was all right, and went on without hefitation.
As it is the intcrefl of Denmark to extend its language over
thofe countries as much as pofliblc, a fchool-mafler was appointed
at Kautokeino for teaching Danifli to his neighbours, and as many
as he could draw together to receive his inflruftions. It would
appear that this fchool-mafler had not greatly improved his manners
and addrefs, from his travels into Norway, if we were tojudge
from his matrimonial connedion. His wife was only three feet
and a half high, and indifputably the ugliefl creature beyond the
polar circle. But on the other hand it fliould feem, that he had
acquired from his poliflicd neighbours of Norway the art of infmuation,
and fome knowledge in the fciencc of gallantry. He
was able to gain the acquaintance* and attachment of a young
girl in the parifli, who in a fliort time thereafter found hcrfelf in
a condition that difeovered how much flic had profited by the inflrudions
of the fchool-mafler ; a circumflance which placed this
public fundionary in an aukward fituation with regard both to
the
THROUGH LAPLAND. 77
tlic relations of the damfcl, and his own little wife. Thofc ineidents,
however, are not regarded in the lame ferious light beyond,
as on this fide the polar circle. The matter was very amicably
fettled : the child died foon after it was born, and the fchoolmafters
wife felt more pride In her hulbands fuccefsful courtlliip,
than mortification at his infidelity.
Before we leave Kautokeino, it may not be amifs to offer, for
the amufement of my readers, a few geographical and ftatiftical
obfervations on this part of the country.^ In the w hole of the dif-*
tri(5l or parifh of Kautokeino, which is twenty-five Norwegian
miles in length, and twelve in breadth,^* there are but two places
occupied by fettled Laplanders, which amount together to no
more than twelve families. Tlic reft arc all of the lliephcrd, or
vagrant kind, who cannot be accurately numbered, becaufc they
arc conftantly in motion, and not attached to any particular fpot.
In 17.5O they reckoned ninety diftinft families ; but it is pofliblc
that fome of thefe families may alfo have been counted among
thofc of other diftriifts. Thefe wandering Laplanders inhabit
during winter the mountainous trads, and move from place to
place with their tents, and herds of rein-deer ; but in fummer
they draw towards the coaft for the benefit of fiftiing. At Kautokeino
there are fome very fine fields of meadow and arable land
;
the latter of which yield as much oats and barley as fupplics the
inhabitants for fix months. Horfes they have none : all journeys
arc performed on foot or in boats in fummer, and during winter,
* A Norwegian mile is about eight Englifh miles.
in
7 '^ TRAVELS
ill Hedges drawn by rein-deer. What hay they poffefs ferves as
provender tor their cows ; and the corn they obtain is converted
into flour for their own ulc, which, through long habit, is become
fo ncccflary an article of their fubfiftcnce, that they arc
mifcrablc if they have it not all the year round. From fifliing and
the chafe they derive as much refourcc as they poflibly can. A
people enured to a roving and hazardous kind of life, prefer to
the laborious purfuits of agriculture, the chances of fiftiing and
*the chafe. It would not be difficult for the few families of Kautokeino
to raife grain fufficient for their wants : but they chufe
rather to filli, and hunt wild rein-deer, than to undergo the wcarifonic
toils of huflbandry. They exchange for grain what fifti they
can fparc, or barter for it the ikins of bears or other animals
which they may happen to kill. It is, however, by no means to
be vN^ondcred at, that this fhould be fo, when we confider that fifli
arc fo abundant in the rivers as to make the catching of them not
a bufmefs of doubtful fpeculation, but of the utmoft certainty ;
and alfo, that if any one kill, a bear, he gains more by the Ikin
than he would by -the cultivation of half an acre of land, over
and above the luxury of- feafting upon the flelh of this animal,
which is efteemed very delicious.
The method of hunting the bear is the lame here as in Finland,
but that of hunting the rein-deer is attended with cxccffivc fatigue,
and to be performed only by a Laplander. The wild rein-deer,
which fcorn to live in a herd, but remain in a folitary ftatc among
the woods and mountains, poflefs a nicety and acutenefs of precaution
THROUGH LAPLAND. 79
caution that nothing can equal. When a Laplander perceives one
of thofe animals at the diftance of about half an Englidi mile, he
takes a circuit to the windward ; coming nearer and nearer to it,
creeping on his hands and feet, until he comes within gnn-fliot.
I have been aflured by a Laplander, that he has been obliged to
creep in this manner for five miles, through flirubs and mofs, in
order to reach the moft convenient fpot for taking aim at his
prey.
In the fmall village of Kautokeino, there Is in the month of
February an annual fair, which is frequented by the neighbouring
Laplanders and the merchants from Tornea, who come thither
for the purpofe of purchaling rein-deer fkins, furs, and other articles.
In thofe fairs the medium of trade is barter. The Laplanders
give the fkins of rein-deer, foxes, wolves, and bears, with
gloves and fhocs, or rather fhort boots, in exchange for coarfe flannels,
but above all for brandy, tobacco, meal, and fait.
They have a few cows and fheep, vvhich in feme degree fupply
them with milk and wool. For fodder to their cows, when they
have not hay enough, they gather the mofs that the rein-deer
feeds upon, and which the cows, for want of better nourifhment
arc glad to live upon. On the adjacent mountains there is a kind
of mofs which the fheep will cat, and even feem to like. As fliccp
do not form any article of barter or commerce, they arc to be
purchafed at a very low price. We bought fomc for our kitchen,
at the rate of eighteen pence Englifh a-piece.
The people in thofe parts arc neither ignorant of the ufe ol
money.
8o TRAVELS
money, nor exempt from a paflion for being poflefled of it. Their
fair feems to have given them an idea of taking advantage of circumftanccs
whenever they may occur. Of this we had a proof
when we began to make preparations for purfuing our journey ;
they demanded nearly half a-crown a day for each man that was
to attend us, which was an enormous fum for that country, and
b(^re peculiarly hard upon us, fmcc we had occafion for five, and
afterwards for feven men, befides the interpreter and our own fervant.
Our interpreter attempted to demonftrate, that what they
alked was extravagant and unrcafonablc ; but they would not be
moved by his arguments, but replied, that the prefent was the
feafon for filhing, by which they fiiould gain more than in our
fcrvicc ; which perhaps might be true. They feemed alfo to be
aware that, as travellers are not frequent in their country, if any
one journeyed there in a feafon when there was neither a fair, nor
any other particular bufinefs to attend, he muft either have plenty
of money himfclf, or be commiffioned by government to examine
and report the ftate of the country, and confcquently be paid by
the king. Such I conceive was their rcafoning, and there was
no remedy againft it ; we had no other people but thefe that we
could apply to, and thence we wcre compelled to fubmit to their
terms. I confoled myfclf with the confidcration, that I would
rather pay double their demand than return to Ulcaborg, and give
up the intended journey. We now gave orders for our boats to be
got ready, and all our baggage to be flowed into them. We fet
out from Kautokeino on the ninth of July, in the fairefl weather
imaginable.
THROUGH LAPLAND. f?i
Imaginable, and under a temperature of climate approaeblng to
that of Italy. The thermometer of Cclfnis indicated the 25 th degree
of heat at mid-day in the fliadc ; expofed to the fun It lofe
to forty ; on tlie ^^atcr it fubfidcd to nineteen. The \\ omci (
i*
the village accompanied their hulbands to the fide of the river, and
bade us farewell in the moll affedionatc manner. The voyage we
were about to undertake w as long and paint ul, and w hich none ol*
the people had ever performed in fummer. Our departure deprived
the village of two-thirds of its population, and rendered for a time
five-eighths of the married w'omcn Endows. We W'cre followed
by their looks till the- winding of the river intercepted their
view ; nor was the fchool-mafter s wife, to little and fo ugly, the
leall conftant or ardent in demonftrations of fcnlibility and regret
at parting with fuch dear vifitors and friends. Our boats
w ere juft of afr/c fufficient to contain the whole of our company,
with our luggage and tent. We were in all nine, diftributed in
two boats, which could not have carried one perfon more without
the danger c;f being overfet, or of finking to the bottom of the
water.
The river of Altcn we found one of the moft beautiful we had
yet vicw'cd in the courfc of our travels. It is at its commencement
a continued fucceflion of lakes of dificrent fi/.e and fliapcs,
and interfperfed with iflcts that are covered with the birch-trec.
Thefe prefented a fccncry of landfcape, which fir from having a
wild and harfli appearance, was fuch as might befeem a gentler
climate. Thpfe lakes infpired us with an inclination for bathing :
VoL. II. M their
82 TRAVELS
their waters were clear as cryftal, and their edges formed of the
fofteft fand, which floped by degrees into a greater and greater
depth. We did not fail to avail ourfelves of the opportunity of
enjoying fo agreeable and falutary a recreation, whenever we could
do fo with impunity ; that is, when we had a moment of refpitc
from the aggreffions of the mufquetoes, which almoft inccflantly
tormented us. The fame attradlions of the fcafon that invited us
to bathe, animated thofe infers to follow us wherever we went, and
gave vigour to their perfecution. We were not, however, wholly
deftitute of all rcfourccs of'comfort. In a country where we had
little beyond the mere ncceflarics of life,.we confidercd every fountain
that we difeovered, and every plant of angelica wx met with,
as a fource of luxury.
CHAPTER
THROUGH LAPLAND. 83
CHAPTER IX.
Some refrejhtng Sprhigs of WaterFarther Account of the River
A/tenCataractsRapidity of the River in fome Places^ and
quid Progrefs of the BoatsPlenty of^ Fijh in the River Alien
The Church of MajiMufquetoesji^fmall Riven called Keinof
jokiA Chain of Mountains to be crojjedDull and melancholy
Appearance of the CountrySnow on the Mountains in the Midjl
of SummerArrive at a foUtary Cabin in a WoodWar with
the MufquetoesChange of Scenery in defendingfrom the Moun^
tainsRegain the River Alien, and meet with a Salmon Fifier
Pafs another River, and purfue our JourneyLofe our Way, and
at lajl reach Alien Gaard.
TTXURING the whole ot this journey, although we were for the
moft part on water, we felt a conftant riilrft : this was but
III quenched by brandy, -and It was augmented by our mode of
living on dried meat and bifcult. The water of the lakes, greatly
warmed by the continual rays of the fun, was far from being agreeable
; but that of the fprings, which wc now and then found in
the little narrow valllcs, fliadcd by trees from the cxccflive heat,
was fo frefli and pleafint, that wc could fcarcely refrain from taking
large draughts of it at the moment vve found it Some of thofc
M 2 fprings
H I'RAVELS
fprings w crc at four or five degrees of Celfius, which was a great
difference in comparllbii of the lakes, which were at nineteen,
and of the atmofphcrc, which was at twenty-five. It was a
more delicious rcfrefljmcnt to us, than all the iced creams in the
great cities of the fouth of Europe to the moft confirmed epicure.
The river of Alten, after fpreading into feveral lakes, and again
contrafting itfelf within its banks, which arc here and there fringed
with trees, and confift fometimes of rocks and fometimes of bare
fand, precipitates itfelf all of a fudden from between two rocks
about forty firct in perpendicular height. There it forms a magnificent
catarad ; and the agitated water fends up a cloud of vapour
to the ikies, through which is fecn a beautiful and majcftlc
rainbow. This catarad, of courfe, interrupted our navigation,
and our boats were drawn over the land for nearly the fpace of
an Englifli mile, to a place where the river again became paffablc.
On the borders of this cafeade, the Laplanders, who accompanied
us from Kautokeino, had a inagazinc of fifti drying in the
air. After exploring the beauties of the waterfall, we lighted up
a fire in this place, -and had fome of thofe fiflies dreffed ; a part
boiled, and fome broiled. The Lapland , fafliion of broiling, is by
fixing a filh on a flick, and then holding it to the fire.
After our repaft we purfued our voyage ; and as we proceeded,,
had a fine view, and took a drawing of a very beautiful catarad
made by the falls of a tributary ftfeam belonging to the Alten,
w hich defeends on the right bank of that river over a number of
(helving rocks, difpofed like Heps of flairs, as if they were the
work
THROUGH LAPLAND. 85
work of art. It was covered with a canopy of trees, which intercepted
the rays of the fun. We continued to defeend by a branch
of the river Altcn, which flowed with fuch rapidity, that if credit
may be given to our Lapland boatmen, we performed almoft a
Norwegian mile (or eight Eiiglifli) in little more than a quarter
of an hour. When the current began to be very ftrong, our
boatmen dcfircd us to look at our watches, that we might be able
to afeertain how much time we fliould take in getting on a mile.
Wc did fo ; and when wc reached fhc end of what they computed
to be a Norwegian mile, wc found that the time taken up
was twenty minutes. Our boatmen now wanted fomc repofe,
and we fet up our tent near the fmall church of Mali, on thp
right bank of the Altcn. We lighted fevcral fires, and one as
ufual in the midft of our tent, to defend us from the mufquetoes,
our eternal tormentors. Our Laplanders, before laying themfelvcs
down to take their reft, alked permiflion to go and let
down the nets in the river, and draw them only once. They
obtained our leave to do fo, and our interpreter thought it an
amufement to go along with them. They returned in a quarter
of an hour with more than two hundred filhes of different forts
and fizes, fome more than a foot in length. Part of them was
drefled for our fupper : the reft the Laplanders gutted, and hung
up on trees to dry, which they intended to take home with them
on their return.
Next morning, before we refumed our voyage, we paid a vifit
to the fmall church of Mali, which is embofomed in the midft of
trees
^6 TRAVELS
trees and brufliwood, about three hundred paces from the banks of
the river. If in the whole of our travels in thofe northern regions
we had not fo much as feen one Laplander, or had landed near
this church from a balloon, we could not poflibly have formed any
other opinion than that we had come to a land of pigmies, I w as
greatly flruck with the architefture and the dimenfions of this
building : the whole was on fo dwarfilli a fcalc, fo little, fo low,
and fo narrow, that at firft fight I fliould have been tempted to
take it not for a real church, but for the model of one. To have
an adequate idea of its diminutive fizc, imagine a door of little
more than three feet high, a roof no more than fix, and the w hole
edifice, comprifing a veftibule, the body of the church, and a facriily,
or veftry, not exceeding eight yards in length, by four in
breadth. It feemed as if I, who was thought in thefe parts,
In bignefs to furpafs earths giant fons,
might, when placed in a corner of the church, the fartheft from
the pulpit, have almoft touched the miniftcrs nofe with the point
of my boot, by ftretching out my leg without even rifing from
my feat. The native of Italy could not reftrain a fmlle at this
fpcclmcn of Lapland architeAurc.
When w'c had pafled about two Norwegian miles and a half
farther down the river, we met with two Laplanders of Kautokeino,
who had travelled thus far for the purpofe of fiflring. We
had now arrived at the place where it became nccelTary for us to
quit our boats, and to purfuc our journey on foot over that great
6 chain
THROUGH LmAND. 87
chain of mountains into which the river Altcn infmuates itfclf,
and flowing, by many windings, through its whole extent, breaks
out and ruflics down in many places, and forms a number of eatarafts.
As our baggage aj)pcarcd too heavy to our wary Laplanders
of Kautokeino, they engaged the two filhers alfo to accompany
us, Vvhich lightened the burthen of each, Ky the dlviflon
of five parts into feven. They drew the boats on land, and made
them fall to feme trees. We then began to afeend the mountain
on the left bank of the Altcn, very near to a brook, or rather fmall
river, called Kionos-joki, which defeends from the mountain KuHitunduri.
This brook forms at one place a very fingular cafeade,
by opening a paflligc for itfelf under the liirface of the rocks, and
pafling, where it begins to fall, under a natural bridge.
We continued to afeend, for the fpace of four Englifli miles,
through a thicket of dwarf birch (betula utvia) and birch-trees,
and over ground uniformly covered with thick mofs, which rendered
our journey extremely fatiguing. The day was ovcrcall
with clouds, but {till there was a fufFocating heat, which occafioned
a great dcprefiTion and heavinefs of fpirits. This was the
moft favourable opportunity that could poflibly be imagined for
the mufquctocs. The quantity of thofe terrible infeds lodged
amongft the bufties and mofs was fo great, that at every ftep we
raifed fuch a cloud of them, as covered us all over from head to
foot. Imagine a number of putrid bacon hams expofed to the
rays of a fummers fun, and all covered w ith flics : fuch was our
condition, and the difgufting appearance of our perlons. After we
had
88 TRAVELS
had afcended lour miles, the mountain began to aiTumc a Hattilh
and naked afped, without a fiiigle tree. It was wholly covered
with the common mofs of the rein-deer, favc where this
cxtenfivc carpet was broken, and chccqucrcd with moralfes, bafoils
of water, and lakes, altogether forming a landfcape the
moH: dreary .and melancholy conceivable. There was nothing
to engage our attention, to amufc our limey, or to confolc
and cheer our fpirits. A vaft expanfe lay before us, which we
wxrc to mcafure with dur feet, through moraffes in which we
were not without danger of being fwallowed up. On the fummit
of this chain of mountains we tra\ erfed a fpace of not Id's
than fifteen Englifli miles, fbmetimes wrapped in a cloud, and
fometimes marching over the liiow, though in the midft of fiinimcr.
The temperature of the air, in this elevation, had undergone
a confiderable change. Our thermometer indicated a remarkable
difference of degrees from that of the furfacc of the river
of Altcn. This climate was not very inviting to the mulquetoes.
If we had not been obliged to purfue our way through a number
of lowflirubs, we lliould have been but little troubled by them:
but the fw arms that we raifed from the bullies wdicn we bci2:an to
climb, accompanied us faithfully during the whole of our progrefs
through the mountains. Even when our route lay through heights
covered with fnow, our eternal foes purfued us Hill. Unfortunately
it was a perfeft calm : not a breath of w ind to drive away
thofc peftiferous companions.
In the courfc of our journey through thofe lofty and dreary regions,
THROUGH LAPLAND. 89
gions, we ftartcd a white hare, and fome birds of ditTcrent Ibi ts ;
but it was not without difficulty and trouble that wc could lire a
fhot, on account of the infeds. The pleafure of fliootlng any
thing was dearly purchafed by the pain to be endured in pcrlhrming
that operation. In order to charge, level our pieces, and take
aim, it was ricceflary to pull off our gloves, and put afidc the veils
that covered our faces : but when all this was done, or w hilc doing,
our enemies, ever watchful for a favourable moment of attack,
allured by the feent of their prey, fell On the parts expofed with*
out mercy by millions.
We began to be exceedingly fatigued ; but as there was no
fuel at hand for making fires to drive away the mufciuetocs,
which did not permit us either to take refrcflimcnt or repofe, wc
puflied on in queft of feme trees, and made, by a roundabout
way, towards a cabin, which wc were told by one of the oldcft of
our guides, had been crefted in a plantation not far off by fome
travelling merchants, for the purpofc of retting and warming
thcmfclvcs in the winter fcafbn, while the Laplanders baited
their rein-deer. This cabin is a fquarc room about eight or ten
feet in diameter, conftruded of wood, with a hole in the top for
letting out the fmoke of the fire in the centre. Wc did not all
go into the cabin at once ; but after the Laplanders had collefted
abundance of the withered branches of trees, one of them entered
alone and lighted the fire, having firtt ufed the precaution of ftopping
up the hole in the roof in order to keep in the fmoke. When
the chamber was fo completely filled wdth fmoke as almoft to pre-
VoL. 11. N vent
90 TRAVELS
vent rclpiration, tnc rcil of the company were permitted to go
into it. The Infciih, with which we were covered from head to
loot, were obliged to quit their prey and remain at the door, enraged
that tliey diirlt not advance to attack* us in our retreat,
This little hole in which we were all huddled one among another,
quite full of fmoke, and with no other carpet or floor than the
bare earth, was more agreeable to us than any of the inns I had
ever vifited in France or England, In the middle of the roon'i
tlierc was a good fire, and*- our tent placed on leaves of the birchtree
ferved us for a bed. We now fct about drefling the game w^e
had killed, being ourfelves the cooks. We had a comfortable
flipper ; and while the thick and pungent fmoke made the tear.^
trickle down our checks in large drops, we merrily drank, in a
bumper of brandy, to the deftruftion of our enemies, who kept us
in a ftatc of blockade, ftill hovering at the gate of our citadel, and
furious with refentment at the trick we had played them. The
hole for letting out the fmoke being opened for a Ihort time, fomc
of the infeds had the courage to come in, but foon paid the forfeit
of their temerity : but in return, if any of our garrifon made a fally
to fetch wood or water, or any other neceflary, the whole flying
army took ample vengeance by attacking and almoft devouring
him alive. Having finiflicd our cookery and our fupper, we laid
ourfelves down quite clofe to one another, the Laplanders literally
upon each other, like entwined ferpents in winter; the whole
company lying around our great preferver and protedor, the central
fire.
o A change
THROUGH LAPLAND. 0
A change having taken place in the atmol'phcrc, there fuclduily
arofc fuch a ftorm of wind and rain, as threatened almoft to throwdown
our cabin. The fmall degree of comfort our flicltcr afforded
was enhanced by the howling of the tempeft, and by the confidcration
that it would involve the deftruftion of our enemies.
At every wliiftling blaft of the wind, Behold now, we iliid to
one another, the total difcomfiture ( four bcficgcrs! They are
put to rout, dlfp':rfcd, and driven bcfoi'c the wind to a hundred
miles diftance ! This confolatory refledion contributed to lull
us to a found deep, which the fuccceding calm did not for fomc
time dillurb. In the morning I went boldly out of my hole, w ithout
hat, gloves, or veil, to breathe a little frclli air, and, being now
freed from the inceffant attacks of the mufquetoes, to view in
tranquillity the face of the country. I took a walk round the
cabin, in order to make myfclf fure that we were now at laft in a
ftatc of peace and fafety : when lo ! an ambufeade rulhed forth
againft me. I was all of a fudden covered over with the whole
army of infers. I fought, wrapped myfclf clofc up as well as I
could, and fled to the cabin, which, for want. of due fumigation,
did not afford me relief fo loon and fo calily as I expeded. During
the ftorm the infeds had the fagacity to get behind the fide ot
the cabin that was Ihcltered from the violence of the wind, and
waited till it lliould be over, and till an opportunity offered of
making a frclh attack. Their plan and tadics were attended with
complete fuccefs. When we refumed our journey, we were ftill
N 2 attended
92 TRAVELS
attended by an hoft of alTallants almoft as numerous as that by
which we had been purfued to the cabin.
We had yet forty miles to travel before we fhould arrive at Alten,
though we had already advanced twenty miles from the place
where we left the river. The ftorm that had prevailed in the
night had not brought fine weather by a diffipation of the clouds.
The fpace over which we were to go this day prefented a profpeft
almoft as dreary as the day. before. It feemed to us that we were
fometimes going higher up in the mountains than wc had hitherto
clone : wc ftill found fnow as we proceeded. Our fervant was particularly
charmed with the idea of our being fo near the clouds
:
he feemed to imagine that he was already divefted of a part of his
mortality ; and the better to enjoy the illufion, he would femetimes
go out of his way and take a circuity In order to get higher
up In the atmofphcrc. At one time he was wholly out of our
fight : we began to call him, but he did not hear us ; we waited
for him, but he did not come ; we fired our guns that he might
know whereabouts wc were: ftill he did not make his appearance.
If he had been a handfomer youth, we might have been
induced to fufpeft that Jupiter had fent his eagle to fetch him, as
he did In former times for Ganymede ; but his figure prevented
any fuch apprehenfion. He returned to us at laft ; and on our
interrogating him wliy he left his company, he faid, that feeing
a beautiful cloud very near him, he had run after it for the purpofe
of knowing better than he did what kind of thing It was
;
but
THROUGH LAPLAND. 93
but that he found himfelf by degrees fo involved In it, as to lofc
his way, and to be ignorant of the diredlion we had taken.
When wc had any eminence to afeend, we looked at our thermometer
at the bottom, and found that it was colder by two degrees
at the fummit of feme of them. The weather all the while
was very unfavourable and incommodiovis for travelling : it was
cxceflivcly moift, and the clouds with which we were conftantly
furrounded, communicated fuch a degree of humidity to our tent,
baggage and clothes, that wc could nowhere enjoy any comfortable
repofe. Wc thought it better, without halting, to pufti forward
as well as we could. At length, by dint of pcrfevcrancc in
our fatiguing progrefs, we began to defeend the mountains. After
palling by a cataraeft, dalhing perpendicularly from the fummit of
fomc rocks, which was fed by the melting maffes of fnow and the
moifturc of the clouds that crept along the brows of the mountains,
w c were prefentccl with the moft charming landfcapes. Wc
were ready to fancy ourfelvcs tranfported as by a magic rod into
another atmofphere, another country, another climate. On the
oppofite fide of thofe mountains, which arc the Alps of Lapland,
all is on a gigantic fcale, all is rich and beautiful. Vegetation of
every kind is both abundant and luxuriant, the herbage thick, and
the trees large. Here they ftart up to view all at once In fuch
freejuent and extenfivc groupes, as arc not to be fecn any where in
any of the declivities of the fouthern chain of mountains. Wc
plunged into the depths of a wood where the graft rofe to the
height of our knees : but I cannot expreft the pleafurc I felt at
feeing
94 TRAVELS
feeing again the river of Alton rolling its pellucid ftream through
rich meadows, and with a velocity which recalled to our minds
our paffage from Kautokeino to Koinoyoki. Betwixt Kautokeino
to the charming diftrift where we had now arrived, a fpacc of one
hundred and twenty Englifli miles, we did not meet with a human
creature, excepting the two Laplanders of Kautokeino, who
left their nets and followed us, as before- mentioned.
At the place where w^e now were, we at length fell in w ith a
filmon-fiflicr, who had co'me thither with his w ife. It is fo unufual
and unheard-of a thing to meet with any human being in
thofc fequeftered regions, that when the woman heard the noife
W'c made in the woods, flie was affrighted, and wanted to perfuade
her hufband to betake himlelf with her to flight, for fear of
fome wild beaft, or unknown monfter, coming to devour them.
When we came up fhc had not recovered herfclf ; however Ihe
had become more compofed as llie had a nearer view of us while
w'C approached. She was young, and the changes of colour in her
countenance occafioned by fear rendered her the more intcrefting.
Perhaps it was the effeft of our prefent folltude, and owing to the
circumftancc that we had not enjoyed the pleafurc of feeing the
fair fex for a long time, but I thought that this w oman was not
unworthy of a place in the number of beauties. She had black
eyes, regular features, and chefnut hair. Whatever was the caule
1 know not, but I could not help fixing my eyes on her more than
on any other of the furrounding objcjfts. The fillicr had a (lore
of excellent falmon, and alfo a pot for boiling it. He cut two or
three
THROUGH LAPLAND. 95
three of his fifli into fliccs, and treated our whole caravan with a
difli of his falmon, prepared in the manner of foup and bouillic,
feafoned with fomc herbs and fait, and a handful of oatmeal, which
he took out of a bag that feemed to form not the Icaft important
article of his wealth. Having neither plate, fork, nor fpoon, we
w ere obliged* to fupply the place of thefe with pieces of the bark
of the birch- tree, and w e made an excellent dinner.
This falmon-fillier s boat was of great ufe in tranfporting us
over a river that obftruded our way to%Alten, where we were dcfirous
of arriving as quickly as poffible^ in order to put an end to
a fatiguing journey of nearly forty miles through the mountains.
We were landed from the boat in a wood, the paths or trads of
which gave us to underfland that we had now come to a country
inhabited by men. We enquired every inftant of our guides who
went before us, where was Altcn-Gaard ? how many miles we
had travelled, and how many we had yet to go ? Every moment
we expeded to be at our journeys end, and our knees began to
tremble, unable any longer to fupport us, as we purfued our winding
road through this foreft ; when, to our extreme mortification
as well as furprife, we difeovered that the labyrinthical trad we
followed had milled us ; and after an hours walking we perceived
that we were cxadly at the fame fpot where we had landed from
the fifhermans boat.*' Amidft this dcfolation, we could not help
* Ncl bofeo Ferrau niolto fi avvolTc
E ritrovoffi alfin ondc fi tolfc. Ariosto.
Long through tlie devious wilds the Spaniard pall,
7\nd to the river's banks returned at lall:
'I'hc place again the waiidciing warrior viewd,
Where late he dropt his caff]uc amid tlic flood.
96 TRAVELS
laughing moft heartily, and taking this mifcrablc adventure eafily.
It was but a harfh kind of plcafantry ; but, as there was no remedy,
we determined to fet out afrcfli ; and, by way of greater
precaution, we had rccourfc to our compafs, in order to apprife our
guides when we thought they were proceeding in a wrong direction.
This contrivance was not without its utility ; and we foon
came in fight of the place whither we were bound. But before
we could arrive at Altcn^Gaard, we had yet a journey of eight
miles to accomplilli. As we were incapable of this without exhaufting
ourfclves too mueh, wc went in and flept fome hours at
the firft houfc that wc came to. Next day wc reached the habitation
of a Norwegian merchant, which alone compofed the vil-
Jage, fo much longed for, of Altcn.
CHAPTi^R
THROUGH LAPLAND. 97
CHAPTER X.
Situation of Alten-GaardProjpeii to the Frozen or Icy Ocean
Bathe in this Sea-^Inhahitants ofAlten^Gaard; their Hofpitality
Planfor proceeding to the North Cape by WaterDeparturefrom
Alten-GaardPafs near Moimt Himellar, or Heaven-man ; Waterfalls
from this MountainBeautfill SceneryMeet with the
Habitation of a Lapland Family, butfind the Houfe deferted
Fifit another HutCondition ofthe Laplanders on this Coaji
Their Mode of Life^ and happy SimplicityAffeiJing Familyfeene
'Fall in withfome wandering or mountain LaplandersTheir
Tents and Premifes deferibedA Herd of Rein-deerMiferabU
Appearance ofthefe AnimalsTheir great Sufferingsfrom the Heat,
and the Flies, ej^ecially tiu C^rus Tarandi, Linn,Rein-deer
MilkPafs the Whaal Sund, or Sound of WhalesHaruefund, a
Jingle Houfe, in a difmal SituationAppearance of Nature as you
approach the North CapeMagefon, or Bare IJlandArrive at
the North CapeDefeription of this Promontory.
TN walking to the merchants houfe we obferved in an adjoining
pafture two or three horfes. The appearance of this animal,
which we had not feen in the courfe of five hundred miles,
indicated that we had come to the reAdence of a perfon who was
VoL, II. O a ftrangcr
98 I'RAVELS
a ftranger here, and the native of a civilized country. The houfe
was fituated on an eminence, and commanded on one fide a view
of the oppofite mountains, and the maffes of fnow with which
they are conftantly covered ; on the other fide it afforded a profpe<
fl to the Frozen Ocean, which here penetrates into the land,
and forms a confiderable gulf, near which the houfe in queflion
was built. We were delighted at finding ourfclves at fo lliort a
diftance from the object of our journey, which was to put an end
to our toils and hardfhips. The beautiful colour of the fea, and
the brilliant tranfparency of the waters, offered a moft pleafmg
fpedtaclc to our eyes ; but nothing, indeed, cheered our minds lb
much as the idea of having lb far liicceeded in our enterprize.
The light of mountains covered with fiiow, and the name of the
Frozen Ocean, amidft a heat as great as that in Italy, heightened
the contrail between thofc oppolite circumftances, and rcprelentcd
this place to our imagination as fomething fmgular and extraordinary,
which was not to be met with in ariy other part of the
world. Even the very thought of having reached the Frozen
Ocean had fomething fublime in it : to enjoy it Hill farther, and
to make the moft of it, we determined to throw ourfolves into
the waves of this fea, and to recruit our exhaufted ftrength by a
bath. The merchant gave us warning not to do this ; nobody,
he faid, rilked bathing there, for fear of lharks ; but we could not
refill the ftrong inclination that impelled us, and we did venture
to plunge into the water. This, however, was fo infuffcrably
cold, that it was not long before we came out of it, and we felt
our
THROUGH LAPLAND. 99
our legs fo benumbed that they were fcarccly able to fupport us
on the beach.
After drefling ourfeivcs and fliaving our beards, which were of
fix days growth, we were called to dinner ; and not a little furprifed
to find fix different dlfhes, with a bottle of wine fet down
for each perfon. This profpcdl comforted us ftill more than the
view of the Frozen Ocean, and after dinner we found ourfeivcs
more rcfrcflied by the wine than we had been by the fea water.
We thought ourfelves now in paradife, in clyfium, in an enchanted
palace. Every thing was good ; every thing was delicious
; and the keennefs of our appetite doubled the convivial and
focial pleafurc. The merchant was a married man, and his lady
was an excellent praftical cook, as well as a perfeft houfewife.
They had a boy who waited at table; and the focicty of the
houfe was increafed by the rcfidence of the bailiff of that diftrid
of Lapland, who after the death of his wife had come to live with
the merchant, for the fake of company^. The bailiff was a very
w^orthy and pleafant man, and much efteemed in this family, and
in all the diftrid. We found ourfelves fo comfortably fituated
here, that it was not without regret we began to talk of proceeding
in our expedition to the North Cape ; this, however, was indifpcnfiblc,
for it was proper and neceffary to avail ourfelves of
the favourable fcafon. We inquired into the beft manner of performing
this route ; how many days it would require by land,
and how many by fea ; if any one had made this journey before
us ; and what was the diftance between the North Cape and Al-
O 2 ten i
103 TRAVELS
ten } We were informed that the North Cape was diftant from
Alton thirteen Norwegian miles ; that is, above a hundred miles
Englifli ; . that it was impofliblc to get there by land, and that
the only way was to go by fca. The whole of this peninfula they
deferibed as one continuation of mountains, interfered by lakes,
rivers, and impenetrable morafles, which would intercept our progrefs
at every ftep. They allured us, that admitting the poHibi-
lity ofovercoming thofe obftacles, we could not poffibly reach the
North Cape by that way ih lefs time than a fortnight. Ajourney
to the North Cape, they '{aid, had never been undertaken by any
one in fummer, on account of its great length and the almoft infuperable
difficulty of accomplifliing it : and as we wxrc limited
in relped of time, and had a great diftance to go back to Tornea,
we might be too late in the feafon for doing fo. If we were
overtaken by the bad weather, we lliould not be able to return
till winter had fairly fet in, fo that we might travel in fledges.
After weighing all circumllances, we determined to proceed to
the North Cape by water ; and we propofed, when we fliould be
about half way to make fomc excurfions into the peninfula.
The third day of our flay at Alten, the merchant procured us
four men, and an open boat with four oars. One of thefc men
had doubled the Cape before, and confcquently was acquainted
with the courfe to be taken. The other three were very good
feamcn, and had been on thofe coafts on the bufinefs of fiftiing.
One of them, who afted as pilot, fpokc the Norfe, or Norwegian
language ; the other three that of Finland and Lapland. It promifed
IIIROUGII LAPLAND. ICI
mifcd on the whole to be a very pleafant and comfortable expedition.
We^erc furniflied with cufliions and mattreffes, bed clothes
and coverings. By way of provifions, we liad every thing that
was good, fuch as white wine, claret, brandy, frefli falmon, roafted
fowls, veal, hams, coffee, tea, w'ith the necclTary utcnfils ; and, in
a word, all that we could poflibly have occafion for. It was, indeed,
nothing but a party of pleafure on the icy ocean. The
gulf that I have mentioned, indenting the mountains, offered
every where the moft magnificent and ^Interefting profpeft.
We fet out from Altcn, on Monday the 15th of July, at two
oclock in the afternoon ; and we did not arrive at the Cape till
the night betwxen the Friday and Saturday following. Three
miles from Altcn w'C paffed on our right a mountain, called in
Norwegian HtmeUar, or Heaven-man, from which there fell into
the fea five or fix cafeades, two or three hundred yards of perpendicular
height. Farther onward was another grand cataraft,
where wc quenched our thirft. We went up into the mountains to
fee the place where it had its fource, and were furprifed to find
at their fummit very beautiful natural meadows. Still farther off,
wc again faw a fine cafeade rulhing down from another mountain.
All thefe waterfalls were fupplied, no doubt, by the melting
of the fnow on the diftant mountains, which formed as it
were the back ground of the pifture. The cafixide laft mentioned
was precipitated from a hill, adorned on three fides wdth a wood
of birch, fpread in the manner of an amphitheatre, fo that it appeared
as if it had been planted by the hand of man. In the midft
of
102 TRAVELS
of this plcafure-ground Rood a wooden houfc, covered with turf,
and inhabited by a family of fixed Laplanders. I wiflicd to pay
them a vifit ; one of our guides, however, befought me not to go
there Immediately by myfclf, but to lend him on before me ; becaulc,
fald he, the family will perhaps be frightened at the fight
of a ftrangcr of fo different an appearance from their ow n. He
went into the houfe, but found nobody there : it was completely
deferted : the family had cither gone on a fifliing cxcurfion, or
were in the mountains terfding their rein-deer. The architedls of
the houfes on thofc coafts,'appear to have been of the fame fchool
with him who built the church of Mali ; though it might not
bear quite the fame proportion to that church, which our houfes
do to cathedrals. I cannot lay that we were very dlfcrcct in our
vifit: w'e looked at, and fcarched out every thing, even their
pockets : all was open and expofed ; for there are no locks in Lapland.
We found not any article of curiofity, befidcs a box of
rofin. This juice ilTucs from the fir-tree, of which the Laplanders
make an ointment for drefling their wounds. We returned
with regret to our boats, and it was not without pain that we
bade adieu to lb charming a profped:, which bore a ftriking
rcfcmblance to all that is moll romantic and delightful in the
natural fccncry of Switzerland.
There was not a breath of wind, and our boatmen were mucli
fatigued with rowing in fo great a heat. In order to give them
fomc rcfpltc, and to gratify our own curiofity, we vifited all the
Laplanders fettled on this coaft, who generally lived at the diftance
THROUGH LAPLAND. 103
tancc of a Norwegian mile, or mile and a-half from one another.
Abundance and contentment reign in all their dwellings. Each
Laplander is the proprietor of the territory around his little manfion,
to the extent of a Norwegian mile, or eight Englilli,
in every direftion. They have fomc cows which furnifli them
with cxcellerit milk, and meadow land which yields hay for their
fodder in winter. They have every one a (lore of fifh dried in the
fun, not only for their own ufe, but wherewithal to purchafe
luxuries ; that is, fait, oatmeal, and fomc w-oollen clothes. Their
houfes are conftruAcd in the form of tents : a hole in the middle,
which gives them light, lerves alfo as an aperture for letting
out the fmoke of the fire, which is always placed in the centre
of the cabin ; and around which they fleep quite clofe to one
another. In winter, befides the heat'of the fire, they have the
benefit of the animal w armth of the cows, with whom they lharc
the flicker of their roof, as the inhabitants of Scotland do in the
highlands and the northern ifles. The doors of their houfes in
fummer are always open ; and although in that fcafon there is no
night, they are accuftomed to fleep at the fame time as other
Europeans ; with tlie exception of thofe who arc in fuch incefllnit
purfuit of pleafurc, as to fly from one objeft to another, and pulh
the hours gradually on, till they convert night into day. We have
gone into their cabins at one and two oclock, after the hour that
we call midnight, when we always found the whole family lain
down and afleep. We have fometimes remained a quarter of an
hour near them before they were awakened by our prefenee from
2 their
104 TRAVELS
their profound flumbcr. They not only flecp with their doors
wide open, but fo fbundly, that it is not caly to roufc them. The
fadl is, that they are not expolcd to any kind of danger or difturbance
they arc far removed from the anxieties and fears that attend
envied pofleflions ; and the only wild beafts that could poflibly
give them any alarm or uneafinefs arc, the wolves and bears. But
thefe animals never attack houfes, as they procure fufficient
nourilhment by following the wandering Laplanders with their
rein-deer. There arc no venomous animals in thofc rude countries
;
c.
and as to men, they all live In the moft perfed innocence.
Here the neceflity of government, for the diftribution ofjuftice,
and the equal protedion of the people, cxifts not. A fmall number
of inhabitants, dlfperfcd over immenfe trads of lands, have
little inducement to make aggreffions on each other ; and the general
equality of condition that prevails, and above all, the conftitutional
feeblencfs of paffion, and equanimity of temper, prevent
not only inflidion of injuries, but refentment. Though the
Laplanders are defcncelcfs, yet the rigours of their climate, and
their poverty, fecure them from invafion ; and thus they exift without
combination or protedion, and without bending with fubmiffion
to fuperiors. Here the melancholy examples, which exift in
all hiftories, of the great tyrannizing over the mean^ fort, are not
to be found, nor the falfchood and perjury which generally prevail
among rude and barbarous nations.
In one of the families we vifitcd, we witnefled a very tender and
affeding fccne, which convinced us that fenfibility is not baniftied
from
THROUGH LAPLAND. 105
from thofe northern latitudes. At three o'clock after midnight
we entered a cabin, in which there were, befides the mafter of
the houfe, his mother,, his young wife, and two infant children.
They were faft afleep, and we waited for fbme time, that wc
might awaken them gently : they all of them lay on the ground,
which they had covered with the branches and leaves of the fragrant
and aromatic birch ; over thefc were fpread fomc rein-deer
Ikins. They flept as the maritime Laplanders do in general, with
their clothes on ; but thefc being very large and loofe, occafion
no inconvenience by impeding in any degree the circulation of the
blood. The w'ife awoke firft, and cafting her eyes on one of our
boatmen, wliom flic knew, flic was glad to fee him, and entered
into converfation with him in Lapponcfc. The hufband and his
aged mother alfo awoke foon after, but the children continued in
their found fleep. The old woman perceiving our Laplander,
burft into a flood of tears ; the young woman likewife w ept ; fo
did the boatman; and fo by inftindive fympathy did we all,
without knowing why. For a moment wc preferved a dead
filcncc ; when our Interpreter having entered the cabin, and found
us in tears, aiked in Flnnlfli the reafon of all this forrow r
The occafion was thisthe old woman had feen tlic boatman
about a year before, \Vhcn Ihe was in perfeft health ; but fmee
that time Ihc had been feized with a flroke of apoplexy, which
had totally deprived her of the ufc of fpcech. After this general
emotion had fubfided, wc aiked for Ibmc rein-deer milk and
cheefe. Our landlady immediately went out of the cabin and
VoL. II. F conduced*
io6 TRAVELS
concluded us to the (lore, which was a little wooden box, or flicd,
raifed upon beams to a certain height from the ground, that the
provifions it contained might not be darnaged by the humidity
of the fnow in winter. We were aftoniflicd at the quantity of
things this good and provident woman had in her magazine.
I'liere was great plenty of dried fifli, and dried rein-deer flefli,
cheefe, and tongues of the rein-deer, oatmeal, rein-deer ikins,
fur and woollen cloths, and other articles. Every thing befpokc
riches and comfort ; and, ^ what w^as moft remarkable, our kind
hoftefs gave us w hatever we wanted In the moft liberal manner,
and without the leafc idea of receiving aught in return ; on the
contrary, Arc pcrfilicd in refuAng to accept any money when we
oflercd it. I have fecn very few places where the people live in
fo cafy and happy a fimplicity as in the maritime diftridls of Lapland.
Their huts are dark and narrow, and they have neither
bcdftcads, chairs, nor tables ; for they fleep and fit more comfortably
on the ground, and their houfes arc as convenient as they
need be for their occupations and different purfults. Their local
fituation has, at leafl: in fummer, a cheerful and fmiling afped,
being placed near the fea, and at the foot or on the fides of mountains,
where the bountiful hand of nature has given them rich
pafturcs that want no cultivation ; and what is moft valuable, the
ground on which they tread, and the foil which yields them fuftcnancc,
they call their own, and acknowledge no landlord over
it. There is no mafter to trouble them, or to infpire them with
any fear or apprehenfion : the only feverc influence they have to
dread/ arifes now and then from the rapacity of merchants.

THROUGH LAPLAND. 107

We left this cabin to purfuc our voyage ; but after proceeding
five or fix Englifli miles, we were obliged by the wind* again to
land, when we determined to take advantage of this interval to
make an cxcurfion Into the interior of the country, in order to try
if we could meet with any thing remarkable, and particularly,
whether wx could not get a fight of fomc wandering Laplanders
with their rein-deer and their tents. We travelled feven or ei^t
Englifli miles on foot, and found here, and there, amldft thofc
mountains, delicious fpots and vallies, ^ncloled by hills that were
covered with birch and fome other trees. We enjoyed the (hade,
and the freflinefs of the brooks or rivulets that watered the vallies.
We at laft came to a mountain Laplanders tent, and our curiofity
was fatisfied : this tent w as of a conical form, and not fhaped as
tents arc in general. They put together fcvcral pofts or beams
of wxod, frcfli cut down, flicking them with one end in the
ground, and making them meet at the top. Thcfe beams they
covered all round with pieces of woollen cloth, which they faflened
to one another. The diameter of the tent we faw at the bafe
was eight Englifli feet. In the middle was the fire, and around
the fire fat the Laplanders wife, a boy, who was his fbn, and
fomc inholpitable and furly dogs, which never ccafld barking at
us all the time wc remained near them. Fafl by the tent was
erefted a Ihcd, confifting of five or fix flicks or pofts, that were
faflened to one another near the top, in the fame manner as the
tent, and covered with Ikins and pieces of cloth. Under this
canopy the Laplanders kept their povifions, which were chcefc
P 2 of
io3 'I'RAVELS
of the rcln-clccr, u Imall quantity of milk of the fame, and dried
fifli. A little further was a rude inclofurc, or paling, made in
haftc, w'hich ferved as a fold or yard for the rein-deer w'hcn they
were brought together to be milkedthofe animals were not
near the tents at the time we made our vifit : they were in
the mountains, from whence they w^ould not defeend till towards
night. As we did not feel ourfelvcs difpofed to ramble
about in queft of them, at the hazard of lofing ourfelvcs among a
ferics of mountains, exhibiting throughout an uniform appearance,
we judged it more advifable to ofter fome brandy to the
I^iplandcrs, on condition that they w-ould go Avilh their dogs and
bring the rein-deer home, or as near as they could to the tent.
Scarcely had they fwallowx'd the brandy, which we had given
them as an earnell of more, when we heard the Ihrill barking of
the dogs refounding through the mountains. The Laplanders
then told us that the rein-deer were coming ; and very fhortly
alter we beheld a troop of not lefs than three hundred deer defcendiiig
from the mountains in a diredion towards the tent. We
then infilled that they fliould drive the rein-deer within the inclol'urc
near the tent, that we might have an opportunity of feeing
and examining them the better, and tailing the milk frclh from
the docs. They did as wx dcfircd ; but not without very great
difficulty, becaufe the animals, not being accuflomed to be fliut
up ill the ^ fold at that hour of the day, were unwilling to
be confined, and it was not till after repeated efforts that the
Laplanders were able at lafl, with the affillancc of the dogs, to
compel
THROUGH LAPLAND. 109
compel them to enter. We had then time to view tliem at our
leifure. Thofc poor animals were lean, and of a fad and melancholy
appearance: their hair hung down, and their cxccffis^c
panting indicated how much they fuffered at this feafbn of heat
and aftlidion : their Ikins wxre pierced here and there, and ulcerated
by the mufquctocs, and the eggs of the fly called, in Lapponefe,
kerma, ((jcjhits tarandiy Linn.) which tormented them in
the moft cruel manner, i made a collcftion of thofe infeds and

their eggs, intending them asprefents for my entomological friends.

As to the milk which we tafted, it is not fo good at this time as
in winter. In fummer it has always a kind of ftrong or wild
taftc, and too much of what the French call an hant gout.
Our guides advilcd us to return to the boats, and avail oiirfclvcs
of the favourable breeze that had fprung up for purfuing our
voyage ; and we took leave of our Laplanders, whofc only regret
at our departure feemed to be a mortification at the removal ol
the brandy. We pafled in our boat the Whaal-Sund, or Sound
of Whales, w hich was agitated at the fame time by the current
that fets in here very ftrong, and by the wind, which blew contrary
to the current. Whales refort to this rtrait in great numbers,
and arc, as wx were told, very common in all thefc fcas.
Although we w^ere alTurcd by our mariners, that they had never
palTed this ftrait without feeing eight or ten whales, we were fo
unfortunate as not to get a fight of one. We w cut on ftiorc to
the houfe of a merchant, fituated on an iflund near Havefund r
this was pe.haps the moft difmal habitation on the face ol the
earth.
TRAVELS l 10
earth. The whole land around it did not produce one tree or
flirub ; no, nor fo much as a blade of grafs: there was nothing
to be feen but naked rocks. The inhabitant of that houfe had
not any thing but what he brought from a diftance, not even fuel.
The fun for three months of tlie year is not vifible ; and if, during
that fpacc of time, the atmofphcrc were not illuminated by the
aurora borealis^ he would be buried in profound darknefsDreadful
place to live at ! The only attradion in thefe abodes is filliing,
and the love of gain. The nearer one approaches the North
Cape, the more nature feems to frown : vegetation dies, and leaves
behind it nothing but naked rocks.
Proceeding on our voyage, we left on our right the ftrait formed
by Magerdn, or Bare Ifland, and the continent. The vaft cxpanfe
of the Frozen Ocean opened to our left, and we arrived at
laft at the extremeft point of Europe, known by the name of the
North Cape, cxaftly at midnight.
Siftimus hie tandem, nobis ubi defuit orbis.*
The North Cape is an enormous rock, which projeding far into
the ocean, and being expofed to all the fury of the weaves and the
outrage of tempefts, crumbles every year more and more into
ruins. Here every thing is folitary, every thing is ftcril, every
thing fad and defpondent. The fliadowy foreft no longer adorns
the brow of the mountain ; the finging of the birds, which enlivened
even the woods of Lapland, is no longer heard in this
* Here then we flood, and touchd the earths lafl point.
0 fccnc
THROUGH LAPLAND. Ill
fccnc of dcfolation ; the ruggednefs of the dark gray rock is not
covered by a fmglc ftirub ; the only mufic is the hoarfc murmuring
of the waves, ever and anon renewing their aflaults on
the huge mafles that oppofe them. The northern fun, creeping
at midnight at the dlftancc of five diameters along the horizon,
and the immeafurablc ocean in apparent contaft with the ikies,
form the grand outlines in the fublimc pidlure prefented to the
aftoniflicd Ipeftator. The inceifimt cares and purfuits of anxious
mortals are recolledcd as a dream; the various forms and energies
of animated nature are forgotten ; the earth is contemplated only
in its elements, and as conftituting a part of the folar fyftem.
CHAPTER
tl2 TRAVELS
CHAPTER XI.
A Qrotto among the Rocks of the CapeRocks, ofu'hich the North
Cape is compofed, chiefly, GraniteBirds fecn near that Cape
Returnfrom the North CapeA differoit Route to Alienfrom the
one taken beforeIfland of Maafo, and its InhahiianisGreat
Hojpitality and AttentionAdvantage of hewg mtflaken for a
Prince in travellingA Place called IlammerfjlHwahnyjling,
a PeninfiilaAccount of an Englifli Frigate coming asfar as Ilam^
mcrfjl fome Years agoArrive again at AlienFxcurjion to
Telwig, a great Fi/hmarketEmbark on the River AlienSin^
gular Combination of three CataractsAttempt to afeend in the
Boats one of thefe WaterfallsReajons for this AdventureIt
fails, and the Travellers are obliged to proceed on Foot over the
MountainsDiflirence of Temperature in the AirRegain the
River, and meet the Laplanders of KautokeinoReach Kautokehio ;
thence to EnontekisDifficulty of the Journey to the latter Place
Two Englifli Travellers at Enontekis : their MemorandumsThe
Clergyman of EnontekisExtracts from a mannfeript Account,
written by that Clergyman, refpetVmg the Parifli of Enontekis :
its Population, Church, Inhabitants, Colonies, Manners, and natu^
tal ProduStions \ among the Latterfome Plants and Birds, and Re--
marks
THROUGH LAPLAND. ^3
marh on the Difeafes of the Rein-deerJourneyfrom Enontekls to
Tornea and UleaborgQonchijion.
TTAVING made drawings of thofe rocks under various afpeits,
wx landed from our boat, and fcrambled upon the top of
them. Wc* there found fomc pieces of wood thrown out by the
fea, with which we kindled a fire in the face of the Frozen Ocean,
and began to prepare a repaft. In looking about for a place to
which we might retire with fome comfort, we difeovered a grotto
formed by three rocks, w hofe fmooth and polifticd fidcs indicated
that they had heretofore been waHied, for many ages, by the waves
of the fea. In the midft of thefe rocks was a large roundifli ftone,
under which there ran a fmall ftream of water. As wc wxfc
tracing the courfc of this ftream, which had its fourcc in a neigh*
bouring mountain, we found on its margin fomc plants of angelica.
This we regarded as a great acquifition to our table, bccaufc wc
had found it to be a very refrcftiing and fiilubrious vegetable. The
grotto w^as fo convenient, that it had the appearance of being
the work of art. The ftone in the centre ferved for a table,
around which we could place ourfclves ; and wc had only to ftoop
down to replcnlfli our bowl with water, pcrfeftly frcfli and
fweet, though we were within a few paces of the fait fea. Wc
regretted much that wc had no iron implement wherewith to engrave
fome motto, or at Icaft our names on thofe rocks. After
we had finllhed our repaft, wc amufed ourfclves with going up to
the higheft parts of the rocky eminence, which were very rugged,
VoL. II. Q and
114 TRAvT.LS
and thence prccipitatirg down large maflls of ftone. Thefc in
their hdl made a terriV !c crafli, as they flruck againft every tiling
that oppofed their way to the ocean, I'he rocks on tliofe coalis
arc for the moll part compofed of granite. The North Cape itfelf
is a mafs of granite, interfperfed with fomc veins of quartz,
lying in the diredion of fouth and north. In the femicircle
of rocks which form the Cape, is a point or prominence towards
the weft, where we found fnow on a fpot not more than
two fathoms above the level of the fca ; a circumllance w hich appears,
in fome meafurc, to confound the French theory reljieding
fnow at a certain height in the atmolphere, and indeed the whole
lyftcm of Mairan, BufFon, and Baillic, refpeding central heat.
The only fpecies of birds that we could difeover on thofc rocks
was one of the genus motacMla, But at a fmall diftance from the
Cape, out at fea, the uria grille^ fomc fpecies of hirns^ and the
aJca (irtilca were very common; and I fuccccded in bringing
down feveral of thofc birds.
A gentle breeze fetting in from tow\irds the north invited us to
leave the Cape, and enabled us to make ufc of our lail : but w e
had fcarccly proceeded five or fix Englifli miles, when we were
overtaken by a calm, which obliged our people to have recourfe
to their oars. We did not return to Altcn by the fame courfe,
but vifitcd whatever we underftood to be in any way worthy of
our notice on the illands that fringe the coaft. We came firft to
the ifle of Maafo, which is inhabited by a clergyman, a merchant,
and thirty families befides. The merchant received us with the
higheft
IIIROUGH LAPLAND.
higlieft marks of diftindion : he offered us diftcrciit kinds of liquor;
he made us a prefent of fome fponges, which arc found in thofe
parts, togctlicr with fome fca-fliclls ; among the latter was a cancer
Rernhardus erenuta, in a hncchinm glaciale
:
he gave us alio a fpccimen
of an aim alee, which his fon had ftuffed; he lliewcd.us the
environs of h*is habitation ; thefe confiftcd fimply of rocks and fome
caverns, where they hunted the otter : and at our departure, he
hoifted the Danifli flag, and falutcd us with three difeharges of
l)is cannon. All thclc cxceflivc marks* of rcfpc6l and veneration
were not, perhaps, the effed of merc*hofpitality, but more probably
ol* the dclufive fancy that we were tw'o princes travelling in
difcuilc. This delufion was founded in a circumftancc that liad
Cj
prev ioully liappencd. A fon of the late duke of Orleans, after travelling
through Norway, came from thence to this coaft in a flilp.
From the iflc he proceeded to Alten, from Altcn he traverfed on
liorfcback nearly the fame ground that we had done, in company
with a young man of the name of Montjoyc: Both travelled
under borrowed names : the firft under that of Miillcr, the fecond
under tliat of Froberg, w hich is of the fame import in the German
as his own name in French, The year after thefe gentlemen
had been here, the merchants on the coaft were informed
by their correfpondents that one of them was the Prince of Orleans
: and from that time they believed in Norw'ay, as well as on
the coaft of Lapland, that every ftrangcr, accompanied by another,
and one or two fervants, was fome prince on his travels, either for
inftru6lIon or amufement. In order to form a juft eftimate of
Q 2 the
116 TRAVELS
the hofpitable treatment we received at Maafo, It would be neeeflary
to know whether the two perfons juft mentioned obtained
the fame marks of refped that wc did. I travelled afterwards
with my countryman Mr. Bcllotti, through Norway, where wc
were treated, in like manner, with the moft diftinguiflied marks
of honour. I certainly acknowledge with gratitude the hofpitality
fticwn us in that country ; but I cannot, without due regard
for truth, omit to notice, that it was every where believed
that we were Italian princes, who had come to pafs fome time in
the North, during the troubles of Italy ; and all the almanacks
w'ere moft carefully perufed in order to find out what princes we
might be. My friend being of a more delicate frame and complexion
than I, paffed for the unknown prince ; and myfelf, who
was of a more robuft conftitution and appearance, was taken for
his fecrctary or travelling tutor. Some took him for a fon of the
duke of Parma, others for a fon of the duke of Modena ; and
fcvcral who wxrc more fcrupulous in their inveftigation than the
reft, referred to genealogical accounts, that by comparing his age
with that of other young princes whom they found mentioned,
they might be enabled to trace and afeertain his true rank and de*
feent. I have no doubt but we fliould have met with the fame
polite hofpitality, independently of all deception : but 1 cannot
forbear thinking that this notion was not without its influence
among certain claffes of people in the principal towns of Norway,
where wc remained fome days.
From Maafo wc proceeded to Hammerfeft, a place where there
arc
THROUGH LAPLAND. 117
arc two or three merchants and a clergyman, with a few other
families. All thofe little fettlements on this coaft bear a very near
refemblancc to each other : around them is the fame fterility, the
fame nakednefs, the fame rocks.
Near Hammcrfeft flows a fmall river which pafles through a
plcafing gldn, fliaded by fome birch-trees : in this river tliere arc
fomc excellent falmon caught. Direftly oppofitc to Hammcrfeft
is a pcninfula called Hwalmyfling, abounding very much with
hares, for the llcins of which the proprietor drawls from tw-o to
three hundred rix dollars a year. One of the merchants at Hammerfeft
gave us a confufed account of an Englifli frigate, about
feven or eight years before, having come to thofe coafts, in the
time of his predcceflbrs, with tw^o aftronomers, one of whom built
an obfervatory for himfcif on a neighbouring mountain, and the
other went to fix his rcfidcnce for fome time at the North Cape.
He neither recollcfted the particular year, nor the names of the
aftronomers ; but only that the appearance of the (hip made fuch
an imprcffion on the people on thofe coafts, that they all came to
fee her, and went away with terrible apprehenfions that Ihe had
come to carry war and deftrudion into their country. The clergyman
of Hammerfeft was fo fquare and ftoiit a man, and of fo
gigantic a ftaturc, that if the extent of his underftanding had borne
any proportion to that of his corporeal frame, he would have been
the ableft divine of our age. He fpoke both Latin Sind German, and
was very inquifitivc about news and politics. He was mightily rejoiced
at feeing us, being convinced that we fliould be able to give
him
iiS TRAVELS
him fomc news more recent than any that he had heard. One
may form an idea of the little communication there is between
thofe parts and the reft of Europe from the following circumftance
: it was the Kjth of July, 1/99, and the minifter of Hcmmerfeft
had received no intelligence concerning the great affairs
of nations fince the vidory obtained by the Englilli flett at Aboukir,
in Auguft 1 798.
We did not receive the fame honours as at Maafo, bccaufc,
perhaps, the merchants at Hammcrfeft had neither cannon nor
ammunition. Such is the wcaknefs and foolifli vanity of human
nature, that on o\ir departure from this jdace, we were fcnfiblc of
fome dilappointnicnt in not hearing .any report of cannon. We
fhould not have been difplcafcd if the fame mark of refpc6l, or
rather folly, had been fliewii us.
At Alten we found ready to meet us a man whom 1 had employed
to collcft plants and inieds, and another who had come to entertain
us with his fiddle, and to give us a fpecimen of the mufic of
this part of Europe. See Jppeudix, At this village we remained
fcveral days for the purpofc of making the ncceflary preparations
for our return to the gulf of Bothnia. During this interval of
repofe, wc made a fhort cxcurfion to Telwig, in order to fee the
Laplanders who came thither from all quarters to fell their fifli.
It is a fmall port or creek of the fea, three miles from Alten,
where there is a Village inhabited by fome mcrcliants and a clergyman
: it poflcfTcs a church.
I (hall not fatigue my reader with a detail of all the minute cir^
8 cumfti:nccs
THROUGH LAl^LAND. 119
cumftanccs of our return acrofs the clcfcrt, I fliall conduil him
by rapid marches to Tornea, giving only the outline of our journey.
In two boats we reafeended the river Altcn againll all its
catarads, and by dint of perfeverance, puflicd farther up than any
one had ever done before. The paffage along this livCr is as picturcfquc
as the imagination and heart of a painter can dcfire. Its banks
arc fometimes beautifully decked with birch ; at others they prefent
a rugged and horrid afped ; perpendicular rocks, with here and
there deep chafms and precipices, fearlpl and inacccffible. In our
progrefs up the river, we met with a cafeade, rufliing perpendicularly
from a rock, which had a ftriking refemblance to the ruins
of the vaulted roof of a mjyeftic cathedral : at the foot of tlicfe
tocks is a fmall lake, and all around natural fteps, as if cut in the
ftonc, which gives to the whole the appearance of an ancient
temple. Here we faw a bear who had come to the river near this
place to flake his thirft, but who had no fooncr fpied us than he
made off to the woods. A fox too came to drink at the fame j>Iace,
which w^as In front of our tent where we had paflbd the night.
Farther onward we were ftruck with two Cafcadcs oppolltc to
each other, and both falling from the banks of the fame river,
Altcn, which forms itfclf, at a fmall diftance, an infurmountable
catarad. The proximation of three fuch waterfalls is a circumfiance
pcrfedly Angular in its kind ; at leafl: I have never any
where feen or heard of any thing fimilar ; and had I merely beheld
it reprefented in a drawing, it would have appeared to me
the work of fancy, and altogether incredible. Here we made an
effort
120 TRAVELS
fFort to mount up the cataraft of the river, though it feemed to
mock our defign, and to be the ne plus ultra of our navigation.
To facilitate our afeent, I placed the Laplanders in different lituations
with ropes in their hands, faftened to the boat, and one
tied round my waiflr, in order to aid my cfcapc in cafe the boat
fliould founder or be overfet. In faft, it was on the point of
being funk, and had not the Laplander who held the rope fattened
to the poop drawnJt ba^k in good time, wx mutt have
gone to the bottom. The dangers and hazards incurred on thefe
catarads were not the effcdl cither of a fpirit of adventure or of
ncceflity, but, paradoxical as it may feem, of lazinefs. We found
ourfelvcs feated tolerably at our cafe in the boats ; but if the farther
navigation of tlie river Ihould, after our utmott efforts, prove
impradicablc, then fliould wc again be doomed to traverfe a
dreary chain of mountains, at the cxpencc of an irkfomc and fatiguing
journey on foot, and at the hazard of lofing ourfelvcs in
the deferts. The farther we mounted up into the country by the
river, the fliorter would be our route by land. Should we be able
to overcome this cataraft, the river was likely to be fmooth and
even for a confiderablc courfe, when wc might ifiake ufc of our
oars. Thefe circumftanccs invited us to make the attempt : it
was made, but proved fruitlcfs.
We therefore took again to the mountains, making new traverfes
in order to avoid the lakes and rivers. It was not long before
wc found ourfelvcs in another climate : the thermometer fell
to four degrees of Celfius. Some clouds paffing over our heads
covered
THROUGH LAPLAND. ' i2i
cosrcred us with fnow or fleet. For twelve hours we travelled
without intermiffion, except when we found it neceflary to take
feme rcfrcftimcnt, before we regained the river Alten. The fear
of a change of the weather, or of a ftorm, accelerated our march
:
nor did we indulge ourfelves in cither long or frequent paufes,
daring a joutney that could not be Icfs than fifty Englifli miles.
We arrived at laft at the fame place where we left the Laplanders
of Kautokeino with their boats, and w ho waited in order to
condudl us back to Kautokeino. We had fent a rheflenger to
apprize them of our return, and to engage them to come there
to meet us againft that day. A northerly breeze faved our boatmen
the trouble of rowing againft the current. Some branches
of the bircli-trcc, at that feafbn in full leaf, fet up in the poop,
fupplied the want of a fail.
Having arrived at Kautokeino, we were under the ncccflity of
making another long journey on foot, as far as Enontekis, which
place we wilhed to take into our route. The way was not then
known to be pradicable, never having been attempted before.
The mountains which feparate Enontekis from Kautokeino, arc
not half fo high as thofe which divide Alton Gaard from Mali
;
but we were deftined to encounter as great difficulties here as on
thofe of Norwegian Lapland. We had to ford rivers; we were
infulatcd by moraffes ; we were bewildered in deferts. Our good
Laplanders knew no more the place in which they were than we
ourfelves : their opinions on this point were divided ; and, but for
the direftion of our compafs, we fliould have incurred the rlllc of
VoL. IL Tl wandering
123 TRAVELS
wandering till the approach of winter in thofe woods, or been
under the neceffity of returning to Kautokeino. At laft we fpied
the fteeple of the church of Enontekis, after travelling two days and
a half, and ajourncy of near one hundred Englifli miles. We arrived
at Enontekis the day after the departure of two Englifli travellers,
who had undertaken the fame journey as ours ; but one of
them being taken ill with a fever, they were obliged, after remaining
for fome time at this place, to return. This gentleman
was a mailer of arts, and a fellow of Jefus college, Cambridge ;
a man of genius and llvely'parts, as wxll as learning ; he had been
in Italy, and undcrflanding that an Italian was travelling to the
northw'ard, and would perhaps return that way, he wrote down
in a kind of regifter, or book of record, kept by the worthy
clergyman, four lines from Arioilo, which were admirably well
adapted to my fituation, and painted to the life the fatigues of
my journey,
Sci giorni me n^ andai mattina c fera.
Per baize e per pendui orridi e ftrani,
Dove non via, dove camin non era,
Dove he fegno, ne veftigia umana."'
Thefe two Englifli gentlemen had flaid with the clergyman
for a week, and had been treated by the whole family wdth the
* Six tedious days, from morn to cve, I pafsd
0*er many a pendent cliff and horrid waflc
;
At length a wild and lonely vale I found,
With hills and dreadful caves encompafs'd round.
HooLJis Tranjl. of Ariojio,
utmoft
THROUGH LAPLAND. 123
utmoft kindncfs during the illncfs that detained them. They determined
to exhibit a Ihow, which they conceived would draw
the Laplanders from all quarters to this place, and which feemed
calculated to make on the minds of this fimplc people a great
imprcffion.
^
This was, to mount an air balloon. I know not
what effeft this objeft might produce on the natives, but I have
rcafon to fuppofe that the concourfe was not great. At their departure
they wrote down in the rcgi^cr their names, with the
following apoftrophe: Stranger, wdioevcr thou art, that vifitelt
thefe remote regions of the North, return to thy native country,
and acknowledge that philanthropy is taught amidft civilized
nations, but pradifed where theories of fciencc never come.
On the oppofitc page of the book I again found the name of
Mr. VefvrottI, who had come here to let the Laplanders know,
as he had before informed the Finlanders, in a kind of Franco-
Latin, that he had heretofore been prcfident of the parliament of
Dijon.
Libertatem qurerens feditionifquc theatrum fugiens, hie fuit,
die l.O^Martii, anno 1792.
Carolus Richard de Vefvrotti, Dijionenfis (of Dijon) praefes
in fuprem'A rationum curie Burgundian.
The minifter of Enontekis was a man of learning, and employed
what leifurc he has from his paftoral duties, in ftatiftical
and phyfiological inveftigations. He has made large colledions in
natural hiftory of all kinds : he has alfo written a little book,
tfnontaining anfwers to a number of queries, made by a Swedifli
R 2 gentleman
124 TRAVELS ^
gentleman travelling in thofc parts, for the improvement of natural
hiftory. This refpcftablc clergyman had gone out of the
houfc a few minutes before our arrival. Finding his wife to be a
very intelligent, as well as a civilized and well-bred woman, we
put fcveral qiicftions to her refpeding the population and natural
productions of that part of the country, on which Ihe produced
her hufbands manufeript, elucidating the very fubjcCls concerning
which we defircd to obtain fomc information. This manufeript
w'as divided into five chapters ; the ift. on the population
of the paridi of Enontekis ; 2d. on ccclefiaftical affairs; .3d. on
the colonics cftabliflied there ; -1th. on the nomadical or paftoral
Laplanders ; and the iJth. on natural productions. I made ibme
extracts from the manufeript, which I fliall communicate to the
reader.
T'he population of the village of Enontekis, and of the whole;
parlfli, confilts of nine hundred and thirty fouls ; of which two
hundred and fifty-eight arc colonitls, or fixed Laplanders ; and
iix hundred and feventy-two arc nomadcs, or wandering families,
who live in the mountains taking care of the rein-deer.
Concerning the yearly income of his living, and the rents received
from this parifli, the miniftcr is filent: but he fpeaks much
of the far-fpread renown of the church of Enontekis ; extended
even to the moft remote regions of the North. The Norwegians,
he fays, when they arc going to undertake any long and dangerous
journey, are in the habit of fending to the church of Enontekis,
a candle to be burned there, or fomc other fmall prefent, by way
ol
THROUGH LAPLAND. 125
of vow. He informs us that the wandering Laplanders ftill preferve
among them fomc remains of paganlfm. It happens here
and there in the deferts, that a ftone is fecn bearing fomc refombianco
of the human form. The Laplanders, when they chance
in the courfe of their mov^ements from place to place with their
herds, to pafs by any of thefe ftoncs, offer up facrifices to the idol.
There is alw^ays found near them a number of rein-deers horns.
He mentions, that the Laplanders have amongft them a confidcrable
quantity of money, which they, are in the cuftom of burying
in the earth ; fo that hundreds of rix dollars arc frequently
loft, as the proprietors are often overtaken by fc\'crc illnefs and.
death, before they have revealed to any one the place where their
treafures arc concealed.
Of the drefs of the Laplanders, he obferves, that there is
fcarccly any other difference between that of the mountaineers
and that of thofe who have permanent habitations, except that
thefe laft arc, in the fummer foafon, In the habit of wearing
woollen fluffs in place of the fkins of rein-deer; and that they
have fliirts, which the w andering Laplanders have not. The only
book known among the Laplanders, according to this authority,
is the prayer-book.
He fpcaks of a kind of glue made of the rein-deers horns,
which, he fays, is of a moft excellent quality. He further ftates,
that the moft common difcafe among the rein-deer, is that of the
mH%a\ for which there is no remedy, and of which the animal
dies in the fpace of one year. He adds alfb, that difeafes of the
eyes, liver, heart, and feet, arc very common to thofe creatures.
1^6 TRAVELS
He mentions the enormous quantity of wolves, which in the
courfe of the preceding year (1798) had committed extraordinary
ravages among the rein-deer, and which he aferibes to the war
in Finland.
On the fubjeft of natural produdions, he fays, that potatoes
thrive very well ; but that other culinary roots and plants arc not
raifed without much difficulty. Barley and oats arc produced
here. In the cultivation of the earth they make ufc of a plough
of a conftruftion peculiar to the country, but which is very wxll
adapted to ploughing a foil where there is a great number of large
Hones to be avoided in that operation. The rnhus artikus docs
not thrive fo well as the rudm chamamorns.
The birds he notices arc the following ;

Strix Scandiaca Tringa lobata

Strix Nj'ftca Platalea Lcucorodia
Turdus rolcus Anas nigra
Motacilla Succica Anas Erythropus.
Tringa LappOnica
Of infefts he neither gives any defeription or enumeration, nor
any lift of their names. He made a colledlion however of them,
which he fent to his correfpondents in Sweden, and to the academy
of fcicnccs, from which he has a penfion of fixty rlx dollars
a year, to enable him to purfuc his ftatittical rcfearches, and to
make obfervations, and attend to objeds of natural hiftory.
0 Our
THROUGH LAPLAND. 127
Oar journey from Enontekis to Torncu lay always along the
banks of rivers : we paffed on to Muonionifea, where we faw our
friend the prleft, and our excellent pilot Simon. We vifitcd our
acquaintances at the different places we came to, for inftance, at
Kengis and Upper Tornca, where we paid our refpefts to the minifter
of the parifh, and his amiable daughters, At Toriiea we did
not fail to wait on our friends, the reftor and the merchants,
who confidcred us prodigious travellers : and at laft we made a
triumphant entry into Uleaborg, where we difplayed to our ferupulous
friends, the (hells, fponges, birds, and other natural curiofitics
w'e had colle<fled, in proof of our having really been at the
North Cape, the fartheft extremity of Europe.
CONCLUSION.
THUS ends a courfc, fays Rcignard, in conclufion of his
Journey to Lapland, which I would not but have made for all
the gold in the world, and which I would not for all the gold in
the world make over again.* The French traveller could not,
in my mind, have drawn a Juftcr pidurc of his charadcr, and the
Ipirit in which he undertook his diftant travels, than is exhibited
in this enigmatical mode of cxpreffion.
Curiofity is either the effed of fclf-intcreft, Infpiring a dcfirc of
learning what may be ufeful ; or of pride, which makes us anibitious
of knowing (bmething unknowm to others. Docs not
the
128 TRAVELS
the fccond part of this definition, by Rochcfaucault, throw light
upon, and remove as it were the veil from this fcntcncc of llcignard,
which is fo much at hoftility with itfclf ? He would not, for
all the gold in the world have forgone the vain fatisfadlion of
having been the only Frenchman who had ever been in Lapland,
but at the fame time, by exaggerating the toils of his journey, he
feems to be dcfirous of deterring every other perfon who might
wifh to perform it after him. The love of fame is juftly denominated
the laft infirmity of noble minds ; but when it degenerates
into the frivolous vanity of difeouraging others from an enterprife
which we ourfclvcs have accompliflied, though conceived before
to have been very difficult, it becomes very blamcable. This failing
is too common among men of every dais, and particularly
among men of letters, it Is a fentiment wholly unworthy of a
philofophcr, and even degrading to his charafter. It implies a
defirc of retarding the progrefs of knowledge, under the oftentatious
pretext of a zeal for diffufing it ; and fuch difeouragement
is perhaps the moft fatal, when it comes from a quarter refpeded
and looked up to by the public.
Travels in Lapland, inftcad of leaving nothing in the mind of
the traveller but an unprodudlivc vanity, furnifh every one who is
dcfirous of extending the fphere of his knowledge, and who is
captivated by the ftudy of nature, with a thoufand fubjeds worthy
of his renaark and inveftigation, and, probably, have even a tendency
greatly to advance fciencc, and to improve the happinefs of
human life. How vaft a field is opened for refcarch to the naturalift,.
THROUGH LAPLAND. 129
ralift, in thofe e^tenfiye and unexplored dcferts ! The grand diversity
and contrariety of clinK(tes;y the Aidden traniltions of the leafonsj
thole lurainous.: meteors which* in winter* fupply the place
of the fun ; 'and that fun whieb* in fummer* never quits, the horizon^
Arc not thcfe phenomena fitted to excite admiration ?
In thofe regions every thing wears an afpcdl of novelty. The
rivers and lakes are Rored with their particular kinds of fillies
:
the mountains abound in mines of eiiery Species. The rein-deer,
the glutton, and the lemmbg, ar^ animals unknown in other
parts of Europe. The prnithplogifi; meets there with birds peculiar
to thole climates ; and the entomologifi; ' at every fiep finds,
for the enrichment of his colledlon, rare and precious inle(fbi.
Even the penetrating eye of Linnaeus left Something in this walk
for future difeovery. A number of infers, even of the order
leftdopiera (butterflies), was afterwards discovered by Mr. Quenzcl
and others, and form very valuable articles in colledions of
this kind: and although thetPliny of Sweden has been, minutely
attentive to the objects of botany, and fearched in the moll: diilant
comers for every indigenous plant which Seetued
----^Bbrntb'bRiShunfeen,'
< And waftiitt fWeetnefiin the deSert air^
Still his pp^j^^fiqd fuffipient empb^ b of c*yp*
togamia, which
fpurces Pf
If the traveller poSTeSs that enchanting art, by which, on his
VoL. II,. S return
130 TRAVELS
return home, he inay in his port-folio again tahe a view of thoic
rivers, cafcades, and mountains, that prompt fo lively a recolledion
of his fucceflivc plcalures and pains, he will not want in Lapland
abundant fubjeds for his imitative pencil. And although winter
be unpropitious to his art, he will find what in fumnaer will prelent
a thouland objeds to invite his attention, and an ample recompence
for his patience. His imagination will be exalted to an
extacy of a melancholy kind : a penfive fiidnefs, not without its
charms and ulefulhels.* That profound Iblitude and filence which
every where reigns, will every inllant fugged the queftion, to
what good end do thole places lerve 1 To what purpole all that
beautiful Icenety of lakes, rivers, rivulets, and cafcades, if thole
dcfcrts are never, as would leem to be the cale, tojbe peopled by
human beings > This queftion will never be folved by man,
while he retaitu the perfualion that he is the Lord of the creation,
and fi> long as he indulges the idle and prefumptuoas prejudice,
that every thing exUb only for. him. Thofe birds which
make the woods relbund with their long, which fwarm in
marlhes, on riveiv and in the air, and which in lummer retreat
by a loiig continued flight to Lapland from all parts of Europe,
in order to provide themi^ves with ncftr-have iwt thofe creatures
a natural right of multiplying their Ipecies, as well as man }
Pcrfecuted every where elle by humaii Inares and induftry, refined
by fictitious wants and defires, ou|^t they not to have an
a^lum where they may depofit the fruits of their loves ?
* A melaacboly turn of wind bell fitted for love and ftiendfliip.
H
ume.
To
THROUGH LAPLAND. 131
To the enlightened philoibpher Lapland prcfents throughout,
fubjcAs of refledion and contemplation no arts flourifti here
~you no where meet with temples, houles, wrecks of columns,
or of other monuments^ The antiquary walks forth amidft the
ruins of edifices, that he may Icam the hiftory, and admire the
aAions of fbrmer times. In Lapland, the philofopher has an
opportunity oiludying among wandering tribes the firft elements
of focial life ; of fbciety in its moft ancient and primitive form
he comes not here for the purpofe oi admiring human productions,
but for that of contemplating nature, the order and harmony
which prevail in the creation, the fixed and. unchangeable
order of things, and the wifdom of t^rovldcnce that is every where
confpicuous ; he comes for the purpofe of enlarging in thoft deferts
the bounds of his knowledge, of ammatij|^his piety, and pre*
paring the way for improving his future happinefs. What a.
journey is that to Lapland,, to a traveller from the South !. What.
.A
^ It is aa important queilion in natural philofophy,. how far the opinion of
Mairan, Bufibn, Balllie, and others,, concerning what they term central heau isfounded
on fa6ts. It is aiked, was there ever a priod fince the formation of the
earth, when the re^ns of the North were warmer than they are atprefent ? Can
we fuppofe that there has been a change of climates, and that in the courfe of
ages an eflemial difleren^e has taken place in the temperature of the atmofphere ?
Thefe queries would natarally prefent themfeJves to a perfon travelling in Lapland
; but I am-forry to acknowledge, that I haye met with nothing that might
tend to anfwer tbepi. So far 1 can fay, that during the fhort fpace of time I was
in Lapland, I did not difcover any thing that could be confidered as confirming
fo fubltme a theory. L faw na hot fpiings, norfimilar veiliges ofa warmer temperature
; nor did r perceivevany traces;of a greater population, nor any indications
of very remote inhabitants, by remains of art, and fragments ofantiquity.
S 2 other
134 TRAVELS THROUGH LAPLAND.
other courTe of travels itiore adapted to produce reflexions and
Icflbns, that may redound to his well-being ! How great his advantage
over travellers from the North, who^ quitting the rigours
of their native foil, come among us and contraX, by the force of
habit, a tafle and paflion for pleaflires which their native country
rel'ufes ! They carry home the defirc of enjoying fuch a climate
and fky as that which they have left ; they feel |)rivations every
day ; they regret the want of thofe amufements, which are peculiar
to a more refined fiate. of civilifation, and. to a more genial
climate : they long for tfic gratification which is derived from
the culture of fcicnce, and the perfeXion of the fine arts. But
happinefs is not eflentially promoted by the mere recollcXion of
tho/c loft enjoyments. The travcUet from the South, on the contrary,
returning fittjft the country which yields hd fuch pleafures
and advantages, halls with enthufiafm the bounteous fun, whofe
favourable influence and benign rays every where diffufc gladncfs,
fertility, and plenty ; and if. on his return, he is fo fortunate as to
find peace and fccurity univerfally diifufcd over his native country,
and the cmpirc^pf laws diftributing jufticc and e^al proteXion to
the people : let him repole from all his labours and toils ; iet him
oultivate in the bolbm of his family the civic virtues, anxioully
chcrilh that fciencc and civility which have fo clofe a connexion
with virtue and humanity, and teach and aflure his countrymen,
that they are the happieft people in the world.
GENERAL
GENERAL.
AMD
MISCELLANEOUS REMARKS
COMCB&NfNO
L A P L A N t).

( > 3? )
GENERAL REMARKS
CONCERNING LAPLAND,
SECTION I.
Offome Writers who hcwe given Accounts of Lapland^ efpecially the
MiJJtonary Canute Lecms

The Authors Views in this part of the

Work explahted,
TF a traveller were to confine his attention and his narrative to
tlic particulars that aftually meet his own eye, his difeoveries
w ould be bounded by a narrow horizon, and even In that compafs
his information would often be very imperfeft. The origin, reafons,
and various connexions of things arc frequently to be learned
from others. It is therefore his bufincfs, not only to converfe as
much as poflSble wdth the natives, and all thofe who can afford intelligence,
but alfo to confult written records. To fwell a journal
with extraXs from books within every ones reach, and which
all may underftand, is a common but not a very equitable prac-
VoL. II. T tice.
38 GENERAL REMARKS
tice. The cafe Is otherwifc where the book, containing curious
and ufcful Information, is not known to the nations to whom the
traveller addreffes his work, and which, were they acquainted
with its exiftcnce, would be Intelligible only to a very fmall
number.
In order to add authority to my experience, and enlarge my
knowledge of the manners and ciiftoms of the Laplanders, 1 caft
about to procure what afliftance 1 could from various accounts,
cither printed or In manufript, and in my refcarches I fortunately
found at Drontheim, the capital of the province of Norway, which
borders on Norwegian Lapland, a w'ork but little knowni in other
parts of Europe. This book profefledly treats of the Laplanders
inhabiting Finmark, who are fubjed to the Danifli crown. The
manufcript was drawn up in the Danifli language by Canute
Leems, who was ten years a miflTionary to the Laplanders, conftantly
refiding amongft them, and a teacher of the Lapland
tongue in the vicinity of Drontheim. It Is dedicated to the prelent
king of Denmark, Chriftian the Seventh, by whofe command
it was firft written, and afterwards tranflated into Latin. This
tranflation was printed at Copenhagen In J/Oy: it is illuftrated
by notes, chiefly, though not fbicly, relating to botany and natural
hiftory, by Gunner, Bilhop of Drontheim, accompanied with a
dilTcrtation on the pagan fuperftition of the Laplanders, and upwards
of ninety copper- plates. From the miflionarys narrative,
and allb the bifliop's annotations, I have introduced among my
obfervations what appeared to be moft curious and important.
There
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 1 '9
There cxifts iin account of Svvedilh Lapland, which in no rofpccl
differs from that of Leems ; but the reader is particularly
cautioned by the miflionary againft another publication by an
anonymous author, in the German language, entitled, Nonr^chg
ReyJ}, &c. which came out about the middle of the laft century.
This German writer makes the Laplanders a nation of magicians,
and has filled his book with monftrous abfurditics, and told the
moft egregious falfchoods concerning them. He aflerts, that the
I.aplander calls his rein-deer to him hf blowing a horn ; and that
when he is about to fet off on a journey he w hirj)crs the animal
in the car, as if he was informing him of the way he was to go.
Now the miffionary abfolutcly denies that either horn or trumpet
is known amongft the Laplanders, who make no ufe of any mufical
inftrument whatever. As to the whifpering in the animals
ears, the folly of fuch a ftatement is a fufficient impeachment of
its veracity. The fame perfon fays, he bought a favourable wind
with money and tobacco of certain inhabitants of Norland, wdio
gave him a piece of linen rag tied in three knots, which he was
to faften to the main fail ; and he adds, that upon loofcning the
firft and fccond knots he had a favourable wdnd, but that the third
caufed a violent tempeft. Our miffionary totally denies the probability
of the affirmation, though it may be admitted that the
Lapland magicians formerly pretended to fuch power over the
winds ; for the fame affertion has alfo been made by other writers.
Our readers, who arc admirers of Hudibras, will recollcft, that
Butler has an allufion to this fuperftition^ w hich undoubtedly he
T 2 had
140 GENERAL REMARKS
had met with in thofc authors, in the courfe of his extenfive reading.
The miffionarys book is publifhed, very properly, in the Danilli
language, as well as in the Latin tranflation. For the barbarous
Latin that the tranflator, though a great maftcr of the Latin
tongue, is obliged to ufe from the novelty of the matter (which
even Cicero or Caefar could not have cxprelTcd in pure latinity),
would in many inftances be unintelligible to good latinifts, if it
were not elucidated by the' addition of the Danifli.
The Laplanders, of whom an account is given by the miflionary
Leems, are the inhabitants of Finmark, making part of the prefedure
of Drontheim, and belonging to the crown of Denmark.
And thefe are fald to differ in no refped in their manners, cuftoms,
and language, from the Laplanders belonging to Ruflia and
Sweden, and manifeftly to be one and the fame people, though
under different governments. In following our author through his
work, I fliall, in fome inftances, go over the fame ground on
which I have already llightly touched. But, where I do fo, the
circumftantiality of the miffionary will afford a fufficient degree
of novelty and intereft, to prevent the unpicafant fatigue of repetition.
Some writers have defcribed the Laplanders, not only as dirty,
indolent, and immoderately addided to fpirituous liquors, but as
a libidinous and cowardly race of people, covetous of money, and
knavifli in the acquifition of it. The miffionary Leems ftiews a
very laudable partiality for thofc people, who have been the objed
of
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 141
of his pious labours, and among whom, according to his own
account, he has pafled many days of hardfliip, for the purpofe of
pointing out to them the road to falvation. He does not deny all
that has been aflerted In their disfavour, or rather, his mode o(
vindication fliew^s, that however they may be improved in their
manners, tliey were not always irreproachable. As to their inordinate
paffion for intoxication, whether by means of fpirltuous
liquors or tobacco, he acknowledges and explains it, though even
here his propcnfity to fliadc and extenuate their failings is obvious.

From what I have faid concerning the affiftance of which 1

fliall avail myfelf in the following account of Lapland, the reader
is not to imagine, that he has to expeft nothing farther in the
fubfequent pages than a mere tranllation of the book alluded to.
On the contrary, I have only felcdcd from it fuch information
as I found intcrefting and applicable to the prefent ftatc of that
country. This is interfperfed with my own remarks ; and*I have
fliewn jn which points I differ from the ftatements of the author.
Some of his aflertions, which were not confirmed by my ow n obfervation,
I have not introduced : and, laftly, I have Inferted large
communications * on the natural hillory of Lapland, accompanied
by fomc plates ; which, I truft, will be received as an acceptable
prefent, by thofe who cultivate that important fcicncc. It would,
* Chiefly what is fald on the birds, and other animals of l.apland, and the
entire Icftions on inlb^ls, botany, and mineralogy ; aifo the laft ici^ion, vvhic;li
contains tome general obfervations relative to iiieteoiology and natural hiftoiy.
however.
142 GENERAL REMARKS
however, be an aft of injuftice, if I claimed the merit of the laft
mentioned additions as entirely my own ; and I therefore acknowledge
with grateful pleafure the obligations I owe to fevcral litcrary
gentlemen for their liberal afliftance. Dr. Qiicn/xl, of Stockholm,
furnilhed me with the lift in the branch of zoology ; by the
kindiiefs of Mr. Paycul, of Stockholm, and Profeflbr Thunberg,
of Upfala, in granting me free accefs to their valuable collcftions,
I was enabled to form a catalogue, and to take drawings of many
curious objefts. Here 1 cannot omit mentioning the name of my
friend Lieutenant Guftavus Brandel, who, being a proficient in
the art of drawing, rendered himfelf very ufeful to me by his aid
and good advice. For the lift of the indigenous plants of Lapland,
I am indebted to the goodnefs of Profeflbr Swartz, a name
too well known to need any commendation from my pen ; and
for that of the minerals my thanks are due to Mr. Hyclm, infpeftor
of the mufeum of minerals, and matter of the mint, at
StockRolm, a gentleman not Icfs diftinguilhed by his accurate
knowledge, than by the fimplicity and politenefs of his manners,
and his rcadinefs to aflTift the inquifitive In the purfuit of fcicnce.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. M3
SECTION IL
Of the Origm of the Laplanders,
TJ^ROM whence the Laplanders derive their origin they them*
fclves are wholly ignorant. Thfc moft general opinion is,
that they are defeended from the ancient Finni, or Finns, and
this fuppofition appears to our miflionary, as it muft to all men of
fenfc, more probable than the notion of thofe who deduce their
defeent from the ancient Hebrew^s. The coincidences, on the
ftrength of which the advocates for the Hebrew origin fupport
their opinion, the miflionary thinks it worth while to detail atfomc
length. I fliall extraft the principal of them, not from any idea
that they are worthy of ferious attention, but merely for the purpofe
of adding a few to the many examples which arc already before
the world of the fancies and conceits of etymologifts. In
the firft place, the Laplanders generally have black hair, fo have
the Jew s ; the Jews are of fmall ftature, fo arc the Laplanders
:
Saturday was confecrated to devotion among the Jews; fo it
was alfo, before the introduftlon of Chriftianity, among the Laplanders
: the manner and modulation of the voice in fmging the
pfalms in Lapland is very like that of the Jew^s in their fyna-
gogues : the Jews, when they offered up facrificcs to God, w ere
8 wont
144 GENERAL REMARKS
wont to cat the greater part of the offerings thcmfclvcs ; fo
alfo did the Laplanders in facrificing to their idolsthey confumed
the flefh themfelves, leaving nothing to their divinities
but tlie bare bones : it was the men who were the cooks among
the Jews
j
fo alfo it is the men, not the women, who are the
cooks among the Laplanders. Some of the Jewifli laws re-
fpefting the phyfical condition of women were anciently obferved
alfo by the Laplanders.
The miffionary obferves, that there are many coincidences in
the manners and modes of life of the Laplanders and the ancient
Scythians. The garments of the Laplanders, like thofe of the
Scythians, confill in the fkins of wild beafts. The Scythians, like
the Laplanders, neglcding agriculture, had no fixed habitations,
but wandered about with their wives and children from place to
place, and derived their fubfiftcncc from their herds of cattle.
Our author alfo remarks very ftriking affinities between the languages
of ancient Scythia and Lapland : for example, thunder,
which the Scythians called ierami, the Laplanders exprefs by
liermes.
The miflionary has nothing to objeft to the general opinion
that the Laplanders were originally of the fame race with the
Swedifi^ Finns or Finlanders ; an opinion founded on a ftriking
fimilitude of names and other circumftanccs. But, after granting
that the Laplanders and Finns may probably have been once the
fame people, and that the marks of diferimination now cxifting
between them may have been gradually brought on by the courfe
of
CONCERNING LAPLAND. U5
of ages, he thinks himfcif juftified in comprehending under the
name of Laplanders all the people dwelling upon the coafts of
Finland and Norland, who lead a paftoral life, lilce the other inhabitants
of Norway, as w ell as thofe families which wander about
from mountain to mountain with their rein-deer.
With refped to the point in queftion, namely, the defeent of
the Laplanders from the Scythians, afterwards called Tartars, the
Bidiop of Drontheim, in his Annotations, obferves, that the Finns,
the neareft anceftors of the Laplanders, are mentioned by Ptolomy,
the geographer, and by the Roman hiftorian Tacitus, whofc dcfeription
of the Finns, the Bifhop might have added, is applicable
in the moft ftriking and im{)ortant inftances, to the mountain
Laplanders, and the fhepherds of Norland and Finmark of the
prefcnt day.
The Bifliop, while he confiders the Laplanders and Finlanders
as originally the Finns or the Finni of Ptolomy and Tacitus, fuppofes
the Finns themfelvcs to be defeended from the Scythians or
Tartars, and from that tribe or nation of Tartars known by the
name of Samoelds. The Norwegian, Swedilh, and Ruffian Laplanders,
he holds to be the fanft people.
The Finlanders, or Finnifh Laplanders, arc offended, Bifhop
Gunner tells us, at being called Laplanders. This he accounts
for with Scheffer, by fuppofmg lap to be a term of reproach.*
The Laplanders feem to have been known to Herodotus and other ancient
writers, who have given them the names of Cynocephali, Troglodytes and Pygmies.
It is fuppofed that their prefent name was given to them by the Swedes,
who made the firfl and principal conqueil of their country. It is faid to be de-
VoL. II. U rived
146 GENERAL REMARKS
The Bifliop fuppofes that the Laplanders were moft probably the
carlicft inhabitants of Sweden and Norway, and the firft adventurers
from Scythia, being driven from the fouthern parts of Scandinavia
into thofe dreary deferts by fubfequent hordes, who overran
the diftrids of the weft and fbuth, fecking for room and fubfiftcncc.
Not only their manners and cuftoms at this day difcoycr
pretty manifeft traces of their Scythian origin, but thofe
difmal regions lying towards the Frozen Ocean, from the RulGan
province of Kamtfehatka, arc ftill inhabited by a race of men
fimilar to the Laplanders, and who, like them, may have been
forced back into the rude retreats of freedom, long before national
records and credible hiftory.
rived from one of thefe three Swediifh words: lapp^ which fignifies a wolf ; or
lappa^ which denotes a bat \ or lailly, lapa^^ which means to run. There can be
no abfurdity in adopting, on the hypotheiis of the Bifliop of Drontheim and
Scheffer, either of thefe etymologies. The clothing of the Laplanders juftifics
the Bril, their ili-favoureducfs the fecond, and their wandering manner of life the
laft.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. U7
SECTION III.
Of the Language of the Laplajtden.
^
I
^HE language of the Laplanders appears to be wholly diftind ^ and feparate from all others,
excepting only the Finnifli, to
which it has fomc analogy ; not, however, fo great as that which
the Daniih bears to the German. -It is diftinguiflicd by certain
peculiarities refembling the idiom of the Hebrew. But the niilfionary
does not take it upon him for that rcafon to fay that it is
derived from the Hebrew. He refers to the preface of a Laplandifli
grammar, which he had publiflicd, for an account of certain
words and expreffions, which fcem to indicate a derivation
from the Greek and Latin. But he adpiits that it docs not hence
follow that thofc words arc adually Greek and Latin, transferred
to Lapland : they may, notwdthftanding that fimilarity, belong to
the genuine and native language of the Laplanders ; and although
the Lapponic contains many terms nearly fimilar to the Finnifli
and Danilli, or, more properly fpeaking, the Norwegian or Norfk,
yet it differs fo much from thofc languages in the general elocution
and mode of expreffion, that if, in pronouncing certain words,
the Laplander, Finlander and Dane were each of them to ufe his
own vernacular dialed, they would not underftand one another.
U 2 The
14^ GENERAL REMARKS
The Lapponic tongue has been fo little attended to by foreigners,
the miflionary obferves, that it is hardly underftood even by
the Norwegians bordering on Lapland ; although it is not Icfi
worthy of being reduced to fixed grammatical rules, and rendered
intelligible to other nations, than the other living languages of
Europe. It is particularly recommended by an elegant brevity,
lyhich expreffes in one word what in other languages would require
feveral. For example, my little loafi^ exprefled by the fingle
Lapponic word lachatzlitam. This term laebaizhiam is analyfed
in the following manner : it is made up of the noun fubftantive
lathe, a cake or loaf ; the diminutive atz ; and the pronoun am,
which fignlfies mine. The Lapponic admits of a commutation of
confonants, namely of the labials B and P, B and M, F and V
;
the gutturals G and K ; the dentals S and Z ; the linguals D and
N, D and T ; the labial letter F, and the guttural K, arc alfo exchanged
with one another : the letters gn, joined together in the
fame fyllable, are pronounced with an afpiration.
The miilionaxy, in farther illuftration of the genius and character
of the Lapponic, goes at very confiderable length through all the
parts of fpccch of which It is compofed, viz. noun, pronoun, verb,
prepolition, and the particle. There are but few of my readers,
I pfefume, who would thank me for following that author
through the whole of his dilTcrtations on the elements of the Laplandllli
tongue ; and I fliall content myfclf with the ftatement of
a few particulars that probably will not be unacceptable.
The firft ten numbers in the Laplandifh table of notation arc

2 Auft
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 149
Auft 1 Gut 6
Gouft 2 Zhieezhia 7
Golm 3 Kautze - 8
Niclja 4 Autze 9
Vit 5
*
Laacrc 10
It appears to be a Angularity in the language of Lapland, that
the names of fluids, metals, minerals, grain, herbs and fruits, arc
all of them exprefled only in the plui;al number. It abounds in
diminutives, which contribute to give
^
that language both grace
and energy of expreffion.
When a Laplander addrcITes a Norwegian peafant, he fays,
pajfevelje ! that is, my companion ! my friend ! If a woman, paffeooahba!
that is, holy After
!
The rein-deer, held in the higheft eftimation, and which are
fuppofed to be of the greateft value among the Laplanders, are
fuch as arc caftrated. Thefe excel the others both in fi/x and
fatnefs, and arc of extreme utility and advantage to their owners.
Hence fuch phrafcs as this : fpeaking of any one whom they tliink
worthy of the very higheft degree of praife, they fay, uartzejeiz,
or, he or Jhe is ahfohitely a cqliraied rein-deer. When a certain
Laplandifli and ruftic officer of the peace, or magiftratc, in the
Norik called Icrmandy of the name of John Porfangcr, was in an
elevated and boafting mood, he was wont to CKcWim, lleerge
zhiouga, I am a cajlrated rem-deer.
Of a pregnant woman near her time, they commonly fay, lS!iJJon
la kietziemleii iuy that is, being interpreted literally, The woman
is
150 GENERAL REMARKS
is in the days of infpeSliony which means, that Ihc is in a condition
that both requires her to be careful of herfclf, and to be attended
to by others.
On the fubjeft of proverbs or adages, in which the language is
by no means rich, I muft not omit to mention one common
among the Norwegian nifties of Finmark. When they would
give the fmeereft teftimony of commiferation and grief at any
misfortune or calamity, be the condition of the fufferer ever fo
diftinguiftied or exalted, they exclaim, Beijiefaikavy that is. Poor
bcajiy an expreflion which conveys to them the livelicll fenfc of
companion and forrow.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAlLAND.
SECTION IV.
Of the exterior Appearance and hodtly Conjlitution of the Laplanders
Their Habits and Mode of L'feTheir religious and moral
CharaSler.
rr^HE children of the Laplanders arc remarkably fat and chubby,
which appears not only in their faces, but other parts of their
bodies. This difpofition to increafe in flefli, however, is Icfs perceptible
as they grow up. The Laplander is of a fw^arthy and
dark complexion, his hair is black and fliort, his mouth wide,
and his checks hollow, with a chin fomewhat long and pointed :
his eyes arc weak and watery, which in fomc degree proceeds
from the conftant fmoke he endures whllft at home, in his tent
or hut ; and may likewife be attributed to the fnows which, during
winter, arc conftantly driving in his face, whilft he is abroad
and engaged in hunting upon the mountains, which afford him
no objeft to fix his eyes upon but what is glaring with whitenefs.
That this weaknefs of his eyes proceeds from thefe caufes, and
efpecially the latter, is highly probable, from the circumftancc that
a man often lofcs his fight for feveral days after his return from
hunting.
The Laplanders have been rcprcfcntcd by Ibmc authors as l)eing
overgrown
152 GENERAL REMARKS
overgrown with fliaggy hair, like wild beafts. Others have given
them but one eye : but thefe arc fables which thofe authors feem
to have borrowed from Herodotus* and Pliny, and in no way applicable
either to the Laplanders, or any race of people upon the
fat'c of the earth. Others again have aflerted, with a greater appearance
of truth and jufticc, that they had from nature an oft'enfive
fmcll. It muft indeed be acknowledged, that there is a certain
unfavoury ranknefs which attends the Laplander, more than
is commonly found with the inhabitants of other countries ; but
this is not fo much to be imputed to his natural temperament as
to his mode of life, dwelling as he docs in a hut or tent, in the
midft of a conftant fmokc, and clothed in a drcls which has imbibed
quantities of dirt, greafe, and train oiL
The origin of this ftory of people overgrown with liair, who had but one
eye, like the Cyclops, is as old or older than the lime when Herodotus wrote his
hiilory. He fpeaks of certain Cyclops called Anmafpi, inhahiiiiig the northern
parts, who waged perpetual war with dragons or griiiins, in poireffion of mines of
gold. The notion of tlicfe Cyclops is fupppfed to have arllen frem the interpretation
of the Scythian word anmafpos, which lignifics one eye. It Jias been
thought by fomc that the Anmafpi were a Tartar nation, into whofe country the
Chinefe (wliofe enfign is a dragon or griffin) made frequent inroads for the purpofe
of fecking for gold, which they carried away with them. As to the peculiarity
of the natives of Lapponia in refpefl to liairinefs, it has been fuppofed to
allude to their wearing fuis in the winter for an outer garment. Herodotus likewife
fpeaks of men who, at particular fcafons, were changed into wolves. This
certainly had no other foundation than in the depraved fancies or irnpoiitions of
forccrers, who pretend to a power of transforming ihemfelves into wolves, and
perhaps, to carry on the deception, difguifed ihemfelves in the fkins of thofe animals.
This belief has remained to later ages, and has left its name behind it,
being called werewolf
y
by the Germans wUhrwolf and by the French loupgarou.
The
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 15;
The Laplanders arc for the moft part fliort In ftaturc, but they
poflefs a tolerable ftiare of bodily ftrengtli. They arc certainly a
very hardy race of people, and are able to undergo great labour,
and aftually fupport themfelvcs under the extraordinary feverity of
their climate with a w^onde*ful degree of patience and fortitude.
In proof of this our miflionary mentions the inftance of a w oman
who croffed mountains of ice and fnow in the month of December,
five days after her delivery of^a child, in order to attend
the prayers of what is commonly called churching. The mountain
Laplanders, and thofc of the fea-coaft, or the maritime Laplanders,
are equally objeds of admiration in this refped, that they
are able to breathe amidft the fufFocating fmoke of their tents and
huts, when the only aperture by which the fmoke can pafs is
clofcd, in order to keep out the weather ; and as it has been obferved
that the Laplanders arc by nature and from habit able to
endure great hardlhips, and fuftain cxccffive labour with patience,
fo it has been long fmcc remarked, that the moft fimplc medicaments,
which clfewhcrc arc little eftcemed, have fufficient
efficacy to reftorc them to health, unlefs their diforders are of a
very violent nature. This truth is cftabliflicd by long experience,
and feems as if Providence, in compenfation for their inability to
procure extraordinary afliftance, permitted the fame efteds to be
produced by the moft common means. They fet a high value on
fpiccs, and no prefent is more acceptable to a Laplander than that
which either confifts of tobacco, pepper, ginger, and the like, let
the quantity be ever fo fmall,
VoL. II. X They
*54 GENERAL REMARKS
They poflefs a degree of agility which is really wonderful, and
their bodies are fupple and pliant beyond conception. It is furprifing
what a number of them arc able to ftow thcmfclves within
a fpacc which we ihould not imagine would hold half or one third
of that quantity. They will fit in the clofcft conta6l with each
otlier, their bodies fupported by their heels, or their entire weight
bearing upon the toes. The American Indians, or favages as they
arc termed, ufc the fame pofturc, and the ingenious hiftorical
painter, wdio has reprefented the treaty of the great Penn with the
Indians at the fcttlemcnt of that flourifliing colony which now'
bears his name, has not omitted to cmbellifli his puSure with the
figure of an Indian in this extraordinary attitude.
The Laplanders defeend the fteep fides of a mountain, when
covered with fnow and ice, with incredible velocity. They make
ufe of a particular kind of fnow flioc, differing greatly from that
which bears the fame name in the northern parts of America : it
is a piece of wood of fome length, curved before, and turning upwards
behind, to the middle of which the foot is faftened ; and
whereas the fnow fhoc is calculated for fccurity to prevent a man
frona finking into the fnow', this wooden flioe or fkatc, called in
the Danifh tongue Jhie^ anfwers the purpofe both of fecurity and
expedition. Accordingly the Laplander Aides along with fuch
fwiftnefs, that the air whilftlcs in his ears, and his hair becomes
cred with the motion ; and yet fo dexterous is he in the management
of his body, that be his impulfe ever fo violent, he can take
up his cap, if he chances to let it fall, or any thing elfe that happens
CONCERNING LAPLAND. *55
pens to lie In Ills way, without Hopping Ills courfe. The children,
as foon as they arc able to walk, climb up the fidcs of the mountains,
and cxcrcifc thcmldvcs.in the ufe ofthefe fivates.
When they travel with their rein-deer, the celerity of their
pace can only be conceived when lecn : they drive with e(]ual
expedition up the top of mountains and down them, inibmuch,
that tlic vibration of the reins upon the backs of the rein-deer is
fcarcely perceptible to the eye. The Laplanders on the coaft are
exceedingly Ikllful in tin: management of their boats. Our good
miflionary fuppofes this extraordinary agility of the Laplanders to
proceed in a great meafure from the train-oil, which from their
birth conftitutes a principal part of their food. But the fad is,
that from their infancy they are pradildl in feats of adivity and
bodily exertion : they learn to afeend the mountains, to carry heavy
loads of timber, to hunt the wild, and to follow^ the tame reindeer
for confidcrablc diftanccs. In this manner they alfo become
inured to fuffering every degree of heat and cold with patience.
It is chiefly by the cxcrcifc of hunting that they arc rendered
fwift of foot, and their agility is favoured by the fmallnefs of their
ftaturc. I'hey arc content with little, and have minds incapable
of being affeded by thofc paflTions, which prey upon and dellroy
the bodies of a great part of mankind. They deep ccpially on
b(}th fides,* and do not accuftom themfeves to retire to rell be-
* In utramvis dormluut aurem^ nee plumis indormire mollihus vui^ni tvfthnavt-t arc
the words of the Bifliop of Drontlieiiii, from whom this particular is horiowed.
It is to be obfeived, that in Germany, Denmark, Sweden, and Noiway, it is
lilual to lleep on one feather-bed, and to have another over it iniU ad of blankets
X 2 and
156 GENERAL REMARKS
twixt two feather-beds, as their more civilifcd neighbours. Their
avocations do not difturb the natural flow of their animal fpirit,
nor do they weaken their body by the labours of the mind : it
mull of neceflity follow, that they are llrong, healthy, and aftivc.
Some of the Laplanders are very expert in carving in wood or
horn, though they ufe no other tool than a common knife ; with
this they make many little utcnfils, fuch as cups, fpoons, &c. as
will be more fully explained in a fubfequent feftion. Their
fledges arc of their own conftrudion, and fo artificially put together,
that not a drop of wet can penetrate them. The women
are very fkilful in ornamenting belts with tinfcl wire, and fomc
of them, like the men, excel in carving upon wood or horn. Thefe
people are very dexterous in the purfuits of the chafe, as will be
fliewm hereafter. Their only weapons were formerly bows and
arrows ; but they now make ufe of fire-arms, and are become
good markfmen.
The miflionary records, as a principal virtue of the natives of
Lapland, their great attention to the duties of religion, and their
ferious devotion when aflcmbled at divine fervice. He fpeaks
of the patience with which they fit bareheaded in the fevereft
frofts, for three hours together, to hear the word of God delivered
to them under tents, which are by no means fufficiently fccured
againft the current of an extreme cold air. It appears, that at
and quilt ; and thefe two feather-beds are moll commonly of the fineft andfoftell
down. Some phyficians recommend llecping on the right fide, or right ear ; the
good bifiiop feems, however, to think, that to fleep cafualiy on cither ear is the
mod conducive to health.
the
CONCERNING LAPLAND. ^57
the commencement, and during the earlier part of the lall century,
the Laplanders were immerfed in the darknefs of paganifm,
and without the leaft tinfture of letters. It was Frederick the
Fourth, king of Denmark, who afeended the throne in lOig,
that firft began to introduce the light of the gofpcl amongft them.
For this purpofe he cftabliflied a religious million, which has been
continued by his fon, Chriftian the Sixth, Frederick the Fifth his
grandfon, and Chriftian the Seventh, the prefent fovcrcign, his
great grandfon. They arc now, as Mr. Leems tells us, well inftruded
in the Chriftian religion, and have the New Tcftamcnt
in their own tongue. The miffionary mentions with rapture the
names of fomc Laplanders who could repeat by rote the whole
catechifm, and large portions of the gofpcl, with a part of the
pftilms, both in the Lapland and Danifli tongues ; particularly a
venerable old man of feventy years of age, who was able to recite
a great part of the catcchifm, though he never knew a letter in
his life, nor had ever committed any thing to memory before.
This inftance of the power of memory does not appear at all incredible.
The Arabs, and other paftoral tribes, who arc in the
habit of amufing their Icifure by telling and liftening to tales,
will remember them though very long, and rehearfe them with
great fidelity, after one hearing. It is conjeftured by Julius CaTar,
that one ofthe chief reafons why the ancient Druids did not commit
their inftruftions to writing was, that their pupils might imprefs
them better on their memories. It was the opinion of Socrates,
as appears from the Phasdo of Plato, that knowledge was
more
158 GENERAL REMARKS
more cafily gained, and longer retained when delivered by wxM'd
ol mouth, than when communicated in writing. It would leem
that the car is lefs diliraded than the eye ; that the intcnl'eners of
the mind is greater in hearing tlian in feeing. The miffionary
adds his fervent wdfli, that his fellow-labourcrs in this vineyard of
divine truth, would qualify themfclvcs for the work, by acquiring
a thorough knowledge of the Lapland tongue, fo as to preach
and pray in it to the Laplanders, as not many of the men have
a know ledge of the Danifli language, further than the ufc of a
few words and phralcs, wdiich occur in the coiirfe of traffic
and of the women, not one is the leaft acquainted with it.
The Laplanders hold the miflionarics fent amongft them in the
greateft efteem, and ffiew them much refpcdl. They lalutc them
with great reverence whenever they meet them, and give them
precedence upon all occafions. They make them frequent pre-
Icnts of what are reckoned in Lapland peculiar dainties, fuch as
frozen rein-deer s milk, w ith the tongue and marrow of that animal.
They arc very attentive to keeping holy the fabbath-day ;
they abftain from curfing and fwcaring, which arc common vices
among the inhabitants of Norway, and they lead a religious and
moral life. Whoredom and adultery arc fins rarely committed
;
and the crime of theft Is little or not at all known amongft them ;
fo that locks or bolts, for the fccurity of property in Lapland, arc
entirely unncceflary. Norway fwarms with beggars, but begging
is unknown amongft the Laplanders. If any one, from age or
infirmity, fliould chance to be in want, he finds his ncceflarics
y amply
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 59
amply and inftantly fupplicd, and charity appears unfolicltcd with
open hands. The miffionary, however, admits, that the Laplanders
arc not entirely exempt from thofc vices which ever prevail
more or Icfs amongll mankind in a Rate of focicty. They
cannot refift the temptation of ebriety, and yield to the allurements
of avarice. They will get drunk, like the men of other
countries, when ftrong liquor comes in their way ; and cannot
avoid cheating, like other dealers, when they can do it without
danger of detedion. The fkins of the rein* deer arc more or Icfs
valuable, according to the fcafon in wdiich they arc killed. If the
animal be flain in the fpring, his hide is found perforated by an
infed which buries itfclf in it, and lays there its eggs ; but it is
otherwife with the rein-deer killed in the winter. To defraud
the purchafer by trying to obtain the fame price for a defedive
fkin as for a perfed one, the Laplander artfully clofes up the
holes in the fkin ; and, in order to impofc upon the credulous
trader, will not fcruple to warrant it free from defed, and affert
that the bcaft was killed in autumn ; though he wxll knows the
cafe to be quite the reverfe ; that the fkin is full of holes, and tlui
deer was killed in fpring, or the word fcafon.
SECTION
i6o GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION V.
Of the Drefs of the Laplanders, both Male and Female.
\ OOME writers have affirmed, that the Laplanders wear dreffes ^ ornamented with gold and filver ;
others again have 'as confidently
afferted, that their clothes arc made with the fkins of
fcals and bears, and fliapcd in a manner to give them the appearance
of walking in facks. But thefe accounts arc not to be regarded,
and arc as foreign to the truth, as that of a writer, who
declares the women in Lapland make ufc of veils wove of the
finews and entrails of wild animals.
Mr. Leems begins his account of this matter with deferibing
the dreis of the man : on his head he wears a cap of a conical
fliape, refembling that of a fugar^loaf. Thefe caps arc generally
made of red kerfey cloth, and formed of four pieces, broader at
bottom than at the top, where they meet in a point : betwixt
the joinings of the four pieces a ftripc of yellow kerfey is fewed,
marking the divifions ; and to the top of the cap is fixed a toffel
of flircds of different coloured cloth. The lowxr part of the cap
has a border of otters Ikin ; but the Ruffian Laplander trims his
m a more expenfivc manner, with ermine.
Sometimes the border of thefe caps extends to fbmc length before
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 161
lore and behind, and ends in a point ; and a cap thus lliapcd they
call in their own language nhuine bipperak^ \n hich means a cap
with a nofc. The millionary lays, he law once a cap which belonged
to a poor Laplander, and w^as made ot a ralmons Ikin ;
it was wliite^and had lljuarc divilions, which were viliblc where
the leaks had dropped from the Ikin.
They wear a fort of riding-hood, called by them rivok^ which
they life in hunting, or in attending the tame rein-deer whlHl
feeding. This hood has only a Imall Qpening to look through, is
dole Tewed up before, and when it is put on the head covers tlic
breaft and fliouldcrs : in front there a])pears a Hap, w hich is called
zhuilhme-nift.
The men in Lapland very rarely wcar any covering about their
necks, or w henever they make ufe of fomething like it, it confifts
of a narrow^ piece of cloth, which only goes once round ; lb that
their tliroats arc always expofed naked, or nearly lb, to the fevo
rity of the w eather.
The tunick, or clofe garment, worn by the Laplander, is called
a torky and is made of llieeps Ikin with the w'ool on, the woolly
fide being inwards: it has a high collar, made ftilFwith kerfey,
or other cloth, neatly worked with different coloured threads, and
extending a little w ay down the bofom. As this tunick at the fame
time ferves for a lliirt, it has no opening but where it covers the
breaft ; and it is more or lefs ornamented, according to the condition
and fancy of the wxarcr, with cloth in like manner as tlic
collar, and bordered with otters Ikin. On the left fide, in front,
VoL. II. Y IS
162 GENERAL REMARKS
is fcwed a narrow ftripc, or border of cloth or fur ; and on the right,
efpccially on the womans tunick, fmall filver knobs gilt : the
cuffs of the fleeve arc likewife covered with a border of kerfey, or
other cloth, edged with otters fkin : a border of the like kind
with that round the breaft and cuffs of the fleeve is ,fewed about
the bottom ; and, as the woolly fide of the fkin is turned inwards,
the wool from within is feen hanging below the border. This
garment, thus fully deferibed, is worn by the Laplander next his
fkin, and, as has been already obferved, inftcad of a fliirt.
The upper coat ufed by the men is made of kerfey, or fomc
fuch coarfc cloth ; or otherwife of the fkin of the rein-deer, either
old or young, of a grey colour. This part of the drefs is called
by the Laplanders kafte^ and is provided, like the tunick, with an
upright llitFened collar, extending to the chin, and furrounding
the neck. This collar Is worked with threads of different colours,
m a very neat manner. The coat, as the tunick, is open only at
the brcafl, and bound like it with kerfey, or fomc other fort of
cloth of various colours. On each fhouldcr is a kind of band or
epaulette, cut in different forms, and of the fame fluff. The
lower extremity of this coat is worked in figures w ith various coloured
threads. This border, or fringe, is called in the Lapland
tongue hijkuldalk. To tie the collar clofe about the neck, a running
firing is ufed. The collar, the opening at the breaft, and
the fhouldcr-band, arc all formed of flips of various coloured
cloths, and worked with threads of different hues : the cuffs of
the fleeve are ornamented in the fame manner; the bottom
of
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 163
of the coat has likewife a border extending round it, and of a
different colour ; for example, if the coat be of red kerfey, the
border is yellow, green, or white. The Laplander has no pocket
to his upper coat, but inftead thereof carries a little bag, hanging
over his breaft, in which he puts his implements for lighting
a fire, which he is never without, and other things of conftant
ufc ; and this bag he calls his ninfak-gierdo.
The cold in this part of the world, during the winter, is moll
intenfe. A fingle inftance of it will bt fufficient to illullrate this,
namely, that the lakes and rivers are generally frozen to the thicknefs
of two Danifli ells and an half. It muft, however, be remarked,
that when there is much fnow upon the ground, the
froft docs not penetrate fo deep. It is on account of this extraordinary
degree of cold, that the Laplanders are under the ncceffity
of covering their bodies with furs and rough fkins of different
animals. The upper coat, made of the (kin of a full grown reindeer,
is called by the natives paejk. But the fkin of the female is
generally preferred for this purpofe, and worn with the hairy fide
turned outwards, which gives the coat a rugged and uncouth appearance.
Thefe fur garments are not left open at the breaft, but
are made intire. Round the neck is a border of fkin with the
hair on, called the paeJk-loL Two thongs of the rein-deer hide,
with tolfcls of flireds of different coloured cloth, ferve to bring the
coat clofe to the fhoulders. This coat has likewife a high ftiff
collar, made of the fame fkin, with the hair on. The ufe of this
upper coat is as a defence from rain ; and if it be worn, as it
Y 2 often
164 GENERAL REMARKS
often is, at fea, and chance to be wetted with fait water, the Laplander,
immediately on coming on fliorc, rolls himfelf in the fnow,
to prevent the coat from being damaged by the falt-water.
The mountain Laplanders, by way of protedion againft the fcverity
of the weather, conftantly wear about their necks, w^hilfl:
they travel, the Ikin of a foxs cub ; obferving always to let the
tail reft on one llioulder. When the Svvcdifli merchants make a
journey over the mountains, they tic a martens fkin about their
necks for the fame purpofe', and, to ornament it, have pieces of
filver fixed in thofc holes where eyes did once inhabit. An upper
coat, made of the Ikin of the fawn of the rein-deer, is called
by the Laplanders moedda ; the fiiapc is the fame as that made
from the Ikin of the full growm one ; but it has a border round
the fleeves, and is bound at bottom with a fringe of black dogs
fkin. The fur coats which the Lapland women prepare for fale
to the richer part of their countrymen, are made of the Ikins of
young rein-deer of a grey colour, and have the opening at the
breaft covered with a border of otters fkin. The lower extremity
has trimming all round of black dogs fkin. From the bottom
upwards, on each fide, is a piece of fkin, cut in the lliape of a
wedge, fewed upon the coat. It is to be obferved, that all the
borders of the breaft and neck, with the other parts of the coat,
W^hich arc of cloth, arc wrought with tinfel wire in various figures,
according to the taftc of the purchafers.
The men fometimes wear tanned leather gloves, which they
call rappakak ; but moft commonly they ufe gloves made from
the
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 165
the Ikins of the fawns of the rcin-dccr, the fur fide outwards
;
and in order to keep out the cold more cflFedlually, lined withinfide
with Cyprus grafs. The women make a better fort of gloves
for fale, which are worn by Laplanders of diftindion : thefe have
the part covering the liand formed from the Ikin of the black fox,
or rein-deers foot, with the fur on the outfidc : thefe gloves reach
over the wrift, and fome way up the arm ; the upper part of the
glove, w hich touches the arm, is made of cloth curioully wrought
W'ith tinfel wire, and trimmed with oftcrs Ikin. Many Ivaplanders,
male as well as female, wear 'copper bracelets about the
wrift, which they fancy have the virtue of preferving them from
pains in their limbs.
The men do not ufe ftockings, but inftcad of them a fort of
pantaloons, which clofcly fit tlie thighs and legs. They arc made
either of kerfey or other coarfc cloth, or of tanned leather, and
fometimes of the fkin of the rcin-dccrs legs. Thofc made of
kerfey or other cloth, have a patch of fkin fewed on them at
the knee, to render them more Lifting ; the others, of tanned
leather, arc called JiJkhiky and arc chiefly intcndcfl for the water.
Some of Ikin and leather, that is, the fore part leather, and the
hind part fkin, arc called lamas bufacl : thefe arc commonly iifed
on land, and worn over the pantaloons of kerfey or coarfc cloth.
The flioes of the Laplanders have but one foie, which is fometimes
taken from the fkin of the rein- deers head ; the upperleathers
and the ancle-piece are from the legs of the fume animal.
This fort of ftioc is much ufed by the mountaiu Laplanders, and
8 called
GENERAL REMARKS 1 66
called gallohik. The hair is lett upon the fkin, and worn on the
outfidc of the flioe, which would render it flippery to walk with,
efpccially on the ice, unlcfs the people had the precaution to finge
the hair, and thus by giving it a more uneven furface, make it
fufccptiblc of fridion. This is the more ncccflary for children,
who would otherwife meet with many falls and accidents. There
arc fliocs which have foies of feallkin, and the upper-leather of
fome thinner fort, either tanned or untanned. This kind of flioe
is chiefly worn by thofe who are much on the water. The Laplander
makes ufc neither of1)uckle or latchct, but taftens his flioes
with a thong twilled round his ancle. The better to prelcrve his
feet from the cold, he fills his flioes with ftraw or ruflies. As his
pantaloons do not reach down to his heels, his foot is confcquently
put into the flioe naked. The ftraw and ruflies arc therefore carefully
difpofed withinfidc the (hoc, and at night taken out to dry,
that they may be fit for ufe the next morning ; and when this
lining w^ill ferve no longer, a frefli one is fought for.
The Lapland women make a kind of boot for falc, the foie of
which, as well as the upper-leather, with the heel-pieces, are compofed
of the hide of the rein-deers legs, with the hair outwards.
The other parts, fuch as the inner foie, the legs, and the kneetops,
are of cloth, the latter being neatly worked with tinfcl wire.
Thefe boots are faftened above the knee with a ftrap, from which
hangs a toffcl made of flireds of cloth. The toe of this fort of
boot, which is called by the Laplandersfacpoial^ ends in a fliarp
point.
The
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 167
The men wear leathern belts ornamented with tin, to the
fore part of which is fattened a pouch, v\ hich holds tobacco for
chewing. To the hinder part of the belt fcvcral thongs of Icatlicr
are attached, ornamented with tin balls, keys, and other things.
A knife in a flicath is alfo ttuck in the belt, and a number of
rings arc hanging down by thongs of leather. The women make
belts for fale, worked on the outfidc with tin, and lined with
ttcins.
We have thus fully deferibed the dyefs of the male Laplander,
and fliall now proceed wdth that of the female.
The Lapland women wear caps, fometimes of woollen, but
oftencr made of linen. The woollen caps arc of kcriey or other
cloth, and arc put together with two pieces, one of which covers
the hinder part of the head and neck, the otlicr the temple and
forehead. Along the fcams of thefe two pieces a ftripc of yellow
coloured cloth is fewed : the lower part of the cap Is trimmed
with yellow or white tinfel, or feme other border of a fliowy
nature ; or wanting that, one of cloth of a difterent colour fupplies
its place : it has likewife a tinfel ribband, of a gold or fdvci
colour. The miflionary fpcaks of a poor Lapland w oman, w ho
had her cap tied with a bandeau of the fkin of a falmon of a white
colour ; but which in other refpeds refcmblcd thole before deferibed.
The linen caps dilfer from thofe of woollen, among
other things, by being bordered with more elegant ttutts.
Before the Lapland woman puts on her cap, flie adjutts a round
knob or button, which is on the top of it, and, having put the cap
on
i68 GENERAL REMARKS
on her head, faftens it to the faid button, or under it, with a
ftring.
The women wear llkewlfc on a journey, or when they arc
watching their rein-deer by night, a covering which confifts of
two parts ; tlie firft of w^hlch is of one piece, and* proteds the
head, neck, and fliouldcrs, inclofing likewife the chin : it is made
of red, blue, or green kerfey, bound at bottom with a ftrlpc of
cloth of a different colour ; over this, to wrap up their heads more
completely, they put a high cap, lliaped like a crown, broader on
the top, and leflening towards the opening without, and on the
left fide it has a band of a different coloured cloth, or fometimes
inftead of this a ftrap covered with tinfel, having a ball of filvcr
gilt fixed to the end.
The tunick and upper garment worn by the women, differ little
from thofe of the men ; the tunick is made of Ihccps fkin, with
the w^oolly part turned inw ards, and varies from that of the men
only in being gathered in plaits behind and before, but longer
and clofcr on the breaft, and coming dowm a little lower than
the hips, whereas thofe of the men defeend below the knees. This
tunick, as that of the men, ferves inftead of a linen fliift. The
upper or outer garment is made of kerfey, and is diftinguifhed
from that worn by the men in thefe few particulars only : the
womans extends below the knees, the mans comes no lower than
the thigh ; the latter has a high ftifF collar, the former has no
collar at all. The womans fliecp fkin tunick, however, has a high
ftiffened collar which covers the neck and ears, and appears above
the
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 169
the outer garment of cloth, which, as has juft been mentioned, is
without any collar. The women have another kind of upper garment,
.called harve, made of kerfey or coarfc cloth, but different
from the other already fpoken of, as this comes no lov^er than the
middle, is gathered round, and lies in folds about the body. The
upper coat of rein-deers fkin, or its fawn, rcfcmbles that of the
men in every refpcdl, except that thofc which the men wxar
come down to the heels, whereas the w^omens fcarcely reach lower
than the knees.
The gloves of the Lapland women*arc alike in ftiapc to thofc
of the men ; fomc of them are white, made of the legs of the reindeers
fkin, the hair outwards, ornamented with flips of cloth of
various colours, fewed on them. The pantaloons of the women,
like thofc of the men, ferve inftead of ftockings, and are made of
kerfey or other cloth, or of fkins from the rein-deers legs, but
very feldom of tanned leather. The womens (hoes arc always
made of the fkin of the rein-deers Icgs^wdth upper-leathers of the
flimc; thofe of the mountains preferring fkins of a white colour.
The belts or girdles of the women are of leather or cloth, embelliflied
wdth plates of tin : from the girdle hangs down a fmaller
belt, ornamented with brafs, which has a number of different little
things, and among others, brafs rings hanging from it : the better
fort of women have girdles bedecked in like manner with filver.
The women wear over their fhoulders kerchiefs, or mantles of
Ruffian linen, or of cotton, fometimes white, and fometimes
printed in colours : they alfo make ufe of narrow aprons of Ruffia
VoL. 11. ^ linen
170 GENERAL REMARKS
linen or cotton, white or printed; the white always furnifhed with
a fringe or border.
The women of Ruffian Lapland wear filver ear-rings, and fometimes
filver collars, which go round their necks, and are connefted
with the rings in their ears. There is fo fmall a difference betwixt
the male and female drefs in Lapland, that the good miffionary
tells us, he has frequently known man and wife change habits
through miftake, the man putting on the womans, and the woman
the mans clothes.
The dreffes lb fully defc'ribed, of cloth, furs, and fkins, the
gloves, lliocs, and other articles, it mull be obferved, arc the foie
labour of the women, the men in Lapland undertaking the oeconomy
of the houfe, in cooking, and other matters, which in
other countries are performed by women ; differing in this from
the reft of the world. Several utcnfils of wood are alfo made by
the women ; and the beft fculpturcs of Lapland are the workmanfliip
of the female fex.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 7 *
SECTION VI.
Of the Habitations of the Laplanders^ and their domejlic Ar^
rangements,
rr^HE huts of the maritime Laplanders, or thofe who dw^cll on
the coaft, are called laume guattCy and arc conftrufted with
four polls bent together in an oval form, with a fmall door, and
an opening in the roof to let out the fhioke. The roof of thefe
huts is formed with the bark of the birch-tree and fods of earth.
To enter them it is neceflary to ftoop almoft double, and within
there is no poflibility of Handing creft, except perhaps in the
centre, where the fire is made, which is cxaftly under the beforementioned
fmoke hole. To retire even a Hep from the fire-place
towards the fide of the hut is impoflible, unlcfs the body is quite
bent down. The family, however, arc all feated round the fidcs,
not minding the inconvenience of Hooping. The whole inner
fpace is covered with boughs of trees. In the middle of the hut
two piles of Hones arc raifed in a rude manner at an equal diftance,
parallel to each other, in a direftion from the door to the
oppofite end of the hut : this is for the fire-place ; at the four extreme
corners of which are fixed as many poHs : thefe pofls ferve
to fupport a frame, on which projeding pieces of wood arc faHZ
2 cned,
172 GENERAL REMARKS
encd, in the Ihcipc of hooks or cranes, for bearing the pot or kettle
fufpendcd over the fire.
Before the Laplanders retire to reft, they are careful to put out
the fire, and after the liut is clear of fmoke within, they climb upthe
roof, and place a board over the hole.
It has been already obferved, that the hut is divided in the centre
by two piles of ftones, in order to form a fire-place. This divifioii
is extended towards the door and the further end of the hut, by
means of four logs of birch wood of a due length being added.
This preferves two vacancies in the centre, befides that for the
fire. That towards the door is ufed as a receptacle for fire wood
;
that at the further end beyond the fire is the place where the
kettles are kept, and the copper vcfTel bolding the fnow water to
drink. There then remain two fpaces towards the fidcs of the hut
on the right and on the left of the fire-place : thefe arc each divided
into three partitions, by logs of wood ; the firft next the
door, reaching to where the fire-place begins ; the fecond occupying
the extent of the fire-place ; and the third taking up that
next to the reparation where the pots and kettles are placed.
Thefe partitions In the hut may be ftyled the bed-chambers ; for
in them the family llccp in the order w hich (hall immediately be
c^xplalncd.
Each of thefe compartments or divlfions has the Ikin of a reindeer
for a carpet, that no uneafinefs may be experienced in fitting
or lying down, from the branches which have been fpread upon
the ground of the hut. When the Lapland houfehold retire to
2 Tcfi,
CONCERNING LAPLAND. ^73
reft, the following is the order of the beds : if only one family occupies
the hut, the hufband and wife take up one fide with its
three dlvifions ; the other fide is then afligned to the children and
fervants. If, on the other hand, the children and fervants arc
obliged to flecp on the fame fide with the mafter and mlftrcfs, the
order of the beds is in that cafe thus arranged : the hufband and
wife take the end fartheft from the door, which is efteemed the
moft honourable, and called the hofshio^tcu^ite ; the children flecp
in the middle partition, or, as they name it, gajk-htdo^ next the
fire-place ; and the fervants occupy the divifion near the entrance,
or the iirfa^kiacJJiic.
If a miflionary happen to take up his nights lodging with them,
the beft or principal bed-chamber, the hofshio-kiatjhie, is given up
to him, and the man and wife quit the hut, and this is the cafe as
long as he chufes to flay with them.
When two families occupy the fame hut, the fire, the vacancy
towards the door wherein is placed the wood, and the Ipacc oppofitc
to it at the further end for the pots and kettles arc in common
to both families: yet it very rarely happens that any dilpute or
quarrel arifes betwixt them ; and thefe fimple people fet an example
of cordiality and brotherly lo\ c to the inhabitants of cities
and towns, who often confider the Laplanders as very little fupcrior
to favages.
Their fheep and cattle have a ftall afligned them near the entrance
of the hut, to which they repair by the fame door as the
reft of the family, of which they conftitutc a part not of the leaft
confidcration.
174 GENERAL REMARKS
Near their huts the maritime Laplanders conllruft a receptacle
for hay, to which purpofc they fix three rows of pofts in the
ground, rcfcmhling the three walls of a houfc, with beams croffing
them at a certain height from the ground. Upon thefe tranfvcrfc
beams they })lacc their hay, which they prefs down as clofely as
poffiblc, but principally work it round the upright pofts, the tops
of which remain vifible. Thus there are left under the hay two
empty fpaces, divided, as has been mentioned, by the rows of pofts,
and termed, in the language of the country, atke or lap. In this
manner the Laplanders preftrve their hay through the winter,
rain fcarccly ever falling during that feafon to do it damage, and
the fnow^s affeding it but little on the outfide. In the fpaces beneath
this hayftack the Laplanders hang their coats, and ftore
their rein-deer Ikins, their pots, and other houfchold ftufF. When
their ftock of hay is confumed, they are under the ncceffity, in
order to procure provender, to cut down trees, and ftrip them of
their bark, which they offer to their cattle ; they likewife give
them fmall branches to eat. It foractimes happens that the froft
proves fo fevcrc, as to congeal the fnow, and prevent the reindeer
from feraping it away with their feet, and thus hinder them
from coming at the mols, which is their chief food : in this cafe
the Laplanders cut down large firs and others trees, in order to
take off the lichens and moffes growing on them. This occafions
a great deftrudion and waftc of timber. They feed their cattle
likewife with roots, and fometimes prepare a particular mefs on
which their cows feed greedily. This is compofed of the head,
bones,
CONCERNING LAPLAND. *75
bones and entrails of fifli boiled, together with llraw, and the
fucus, or fea-wced. The Norwegian pcafants, or Normans as
they arc called, who inhabit the eaftern parts of Finmark, fodder
their cows not only with hay, but with the fame mixture, or with
fuch lichens as arc given to the rein-deer.
The winteV tent of the mountain Laplander differs but little
from the hut of the maritime Laplander juft now deferibed, except
that the fame contrivance which the latter ufes for boiling
his pot is not employed by the former. The mountain Laplander,
in clearing away the fnow to form a ground floor for his tent, raifes
with it a circular wall, which furrounds the habitation. The poles
which fupport the woollen covering of his tent, arc fixed in this
wall of fnow, and a fmall beam, crofling the top of the principal
poles, fupports the iron pot-hook to which his kettle is hung.
The woollen cloth which covers the tent is in two pieces, joined
together by w^ooden fkewers. The door of the tent is cut in the
lliape of a pyramid, out of woollen ftuff, extended by wooden
ftrctchcrs. Thefe ftrctchcrs frame the door, which is faftened to
the tent only by a thong of leather at the top or point of the pyramid.
The fides of the door arc joined to fume llcndcr poles or
flicks, which conftitute the two door pofts. One lidc of the door
is faftened to either of thefe two pofts, according as the w ind
blows, fb as to prevent any opening to the interior of the tent,
which might occafion an increafe of fmokc. By this means the
tent can be entered only on one fide, and on that alone which is
oppofitc to the wind.
The
176 GENERAL REMARKS
The mountain Laplander ufually pitches his tent in the woods,
and goes out every day, except Sundays and holidays, in fearch of
fuel. Having cut down a tree, he drags it himfellto the door of
his tent, where he lops off the branches, and prepares the larger
limbs for his fire, having erefted a machine for that purpofc, confilling
of a tranfvcrfe beam laid upon two upright. polls. When
he prepares to light his fire, he collefts the ignited fubftanccs in a
piece of birch bark, covering them with dry leaves and fmall
twigs. The wood he afterwards puts on, being for the moft part
green and incnillcd witK fnow and ice, as loon as lighted, fends
forth a thick fmoke, which is rendered Itlll more intolerable by
the unpleafant vapour emitted from the moift wood. The whole
tent is for a time involved in a pitchy cloud, and all who remain
in it run the rilk of lofing their eye-fight. As the flame breaks
forth, the fmoke gradually decrcafes, but the upper part of the
tent is alw ays filled with it, and if the wind be high, it is driven
back from the aperture intended to let it out. When the mountain
Laplander goes to reft, he does not cxtinguifli his lire, which
lerves the purpofc of a lamp, and affords him as much light as he
luis occafion for. At a little diftance from his tent, the mountain
Laplander raifes a hovel, by laying a few beams acrofs fomc polls
ftuck in the ground, and covering them with boughs. This ferves
him as a ftorc-houfc for his rein-deers Ikins, and fpare utenfils.
The fummer tent of the mountain Laplander refembles, in every
refpedt, that which he ufes In winter, except that the covering of
it is of canvafs cloth, and that it has no fnow w^all, the fnows
being
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 177
being at that time every where melted. The fmall tent which
the mountain Laplander ufes when he hunts rein-deer, or goes
any long journey, is of coarfe canvais, and called in his language,
lavco. When he intends eroding it, he clears away the fnow' till
he comes to the bare earth, over whicli he fpreads fmall branches
lopt from the trees near him, leaving a rampart of fnow on every
fide. He then cuts down a fufEcient number of poles, which he
fixes in the fnow, making them meet at the top, binds them together
with a cord, and fallens them round his canvafs covering,
referving an opening for the fmokc. His fire is made on the
ftoncs he colleds, and if he wants it for the purpofc of cooking,
as well as warming his frozen limbs, he fixes a pot which he has
brought with him for that purpofc. The maritime Laplander
ufes a tent of a fimilar kind, when he is upon a fea voyage, in his
boat, and happens to be driven on lliorc by bad weather. He is
then forced to have rccourfc to fuch an expedient, from the circumftance
of no human habitations being near him.
The mountain and maritime Laplanders make ufe of fmall
flicds as receptacles for provifions and houfchold fluff not in immediate
rcqucfl : they are raifed on logs of wood a fmall height
from the ground. The maritime Laplander places them near his
hut ; the mountain Laplander in the woods, as is further explained
in a following feftion, wherein the miffionary treats of their journeys
by land. The mountain Laplander digs holes in the earth,
which he j^edge-horra
:
thefe he paves at bottom with flones,
and herein he florcs the flcfh of the rein-deer.
VoL. II. . A a Having
178 GENERAL REMARKS
Having fully dcfcribed the huts and tents of the maritime and
mountain Laplanders, Mr. Leems proceeds to fpcak of the habitations
of the pcafants in Norway and Lapland. Thefe arc mean
cottages, the fide walls formed ofwood, the roof ofturf, fupported on
boards which run longitudinallyovcr the top. Theyarebuiltwithout
chimneys, in this rcfpcdl differing from the huts of other pcafants,
but have a paffage for the fmoke through a number of apertures in
the fide walls, by which the light is likewifc admitted. Their
fire-places arc conftrufted with heaps of ftoncs in the form of
ovens. The fire is daily lighted, and the door and holes beforementioned
left open, that the fmoke may pafs off. The fuel
being fully confumed, the floncs which form the oven arc found
thoroughly heated, and the door and apertures are clofed, by which
means a fufficient degree of warmth is preferved to laft till the
next day, when the oven is again lighted. Thefe pcafants ufe
pieces of the fir-tree inftcad of lamps, and pave their huts witU
fmooth ftoncs.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. >79
SECTION VII.
Of the Manner in which the Laplanders prepare their BedsPrecaution
vfed againjl the Mnfquetoes.

'^HE bed which the maritime Lapjander retires to in his hut,

and the mountain Laplander in his tent, is alike made of
the skins of the rein-deer fpread over the brandies of trees, with
which the floor is covered. The Laplanders outer coat ferves as
a pillow, and a prepared fliccps skin, with the woolly fide inwards,
as a blanket, over which is laid a woollen rug. For the winter
the mountain Laplander has a rug, which has a bag within it, into
which he places his feet. Be the cold ever fo intenfe, the mountain
Laplander goes into bed naked. The beds arc by no other
means feparated than by a log of wood on each fide, as has been
already deferibed. The hulband and wife llcep at the farther end,
the children in the divifion next them, and the fervants neareft the
door, but fo nigh to each other, that the hulband and wife can,
with their hands, reach over to the childrens bed, and thefe again
to that of the fervants.
In the fummer fcaibn the mountain Laplander, being greatly
infefted with gnats, or mulquctoes, has a contrivance to defend
himfelf from their flings whilfl in bed, and at the fame time not
2 lufFcr
i8o general remarks
fufFcr from lacing too clofcly covered. In order to effect this, he
fixes a thong of leather to the poles of his tent over his bed, which
raifes his canvafs quilt to a proper height, but fo that the fides or
edges of it touch the ground : under this covering he creeps, and
pafles tlie night fccurcly. The fpccics of gnat that is fo troublefbme,
is the enlex pipiens of Linnaeus : it is called, in the Danifli
language, lys-myg, and by the Laplanders, shiitoik. The female
only bites and fucks the .blood ; but fo difficult is it to guard
againft them, that gloves prove no protedion, as they pafs their
Rings through the feams. They are found in fuch fwarms in the
woods, during the fummer, that whoever enters them is furc to
have his face inllantly covered, and is fcarccly able to fee his way
before him. A flight fwclling, attended with a difagrccable itching,
immediately follows the pundure, and this is fuccceded by
fmall white ulcers ; fo that the face of a perfon coming from the
country is fcarccly to be recognifed, and he appears full of blotches.
Whilfl the Ivaplanders are employed in the woods, on the neceffary
bufinefs of cutting timber for the fake of the bark, they are
unable to take the refreffiment of their meals ; for their mouths,,
as loon as opened, would be filled w[ith thefe infeds. If the wind
happen to blow briskly, they difappear for the time; but no
fooncr is the wind laid, than they return with their ufual buzzing,
and crowd every place. Thefe flies equally infeft the cattle
and rein-deer : when thefe animals return from the woods, they
are found covered wdth them, and when they are fwept from off
their backs and fides, their fkins are red with blood. Smoke is
found
CONCERNING LAPLAND. i8i
found to keep the infedls at a dlftancc ; therefore, while one Laplander
is milking, another holds a firebrand over him, which prevents
the gnats from approaching, and accordingly the beaft remains
untormented and quiet. The pleafure which is expeded
to be enjoyed during the fummer, after a tedious winter that laff-"
from Michaelmas to July, as the good miffionury obfcr\es, is entirely
marred by thefe troublcfomc flies.
SKCnON
182 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION VIII.
Of the Diet of the LapJanderSy and their Cookery,
rcin-dccrs milk conftitutcs a principal part of the Laplanders
food, and he has two methods of preparing it, according
to the feafon. In fummer he boils the milk with forrel,
till it arrives to a confiftcnce : in this manner he preferves it for
life during that fliort feafon. In winter the following is his method
of preparation : the milk which he collcdls in autumn till
the beginning of November, from the rein-deer, is put into calks,
or whatever veffels he has, in which it foon turns four, and, as the
cold weather comes on, freezes ; and in this ftate it is kept. The
milk collcded after this time is mixed with cranberries, and put
into the paunch of the rein-deer, well cleanfed from filth : thus
the milk foon congeals, and it is cut out in fliccs, together with
the paunch ; to cfFedl which a hatchet is ufed, for no fmallcr inflrument
would perform the office of dividing that lump of ice.
It is then feparated into fmall pieces, and eaten throughout the
winter every day at noon, which is the Laplanders dinner hour.
It muft be prefumed, as it is ferved up without being brought to
the fire, that this is ice cream in the greateft perfeftion : here are
flefli and fruit blended with the richcR butyraceous milk that can
be
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 183
be drawn from any animal ; but notwithftanding the extraordinary
fatnefs, which may be fuppofed to rcfift in a great degree the
efted of cold, this preparation, as our good miffionary remarks
with a degree of feeling, as if his teeth ftill chattered wdiilll he
delivered the account, chills and freezes the mouth in a violent
manner whenever it is taken.
The milk which is drawn late in the winter freezes Immediately
after being drawn. This is put into fmall vcflels made of birchwood,
and is confidcred by the Laplanr^r as fuch an extraordinary
delicacy, that he referves it as the moft acceptable prefent he can
offer even to a miffionary. It is placed before the fire, and eaten
with a fpoon as it is thawed. When put by it is carefully covered
up, bccaufe if the cold air get to it afterw^ards, it turns of a yellow
colour, and becomes rancid.
Cheefe is made from the milk of the rein-deer in the following
manner. The milk has water mixed with it, otherwife, owing
to its extraordinary richnefs, it would not curdle w^hen the rennet
is put in. When a fufficient quantity of water is added to the
milk, it is fet over the fire to be heated, and after this has been
fuflficiently done, the rennet is throw n Into it ; the whey is foon
feparated from the curd, and the latter is taken out and wrapped
up in a cloth to be preffed ; after which it is moulded in a round
fliapc : It is eaten cold, boiled or tpafted. When held before the
fire, it is found fo fat that it is in danger of burning, and if permitted
to do fo will flame like a candle. It is efteemed excellent
to heal chilblains. The rennet ufed is obtained by infufing the
found
1^4 GENERAL REMARKS
found of the cod fifli, or the inteftines of the rein-deer with a quantity
of butter milk.
The mountain Laplanders likewife make butter of the reindeers
milk ; but as they take in the whole fubftance of the milk,
it is ol a white colour, and not fo wxll tailed or fat as that of the
cream of cows milk, ufed for that purpofc by the maritime Laplander,
who has few rein-deer, and whofc flock confifts chiefly of
cows, flicep, and goats. In making their butter the women ufe
their fingers only, ftlrrlng the cream about wdth them till, as commonly
exprefled, the butter comes, or till it acquires confiflency.
The mountain Laplander conflantly dines or flips upon vciiifon
frcfli killed throughout the winter, and flaiightcrs weekly one or
two rein-deer, according to the number of perfons of which his
family confifls. His venifon is cooked in the following manner.
He cuts fmall pieces, which he puts in his pot, without paying any
regard to cleaning them from blood and dirt : he then places the
pot by the fide of the fire, that the fat may be drawn from the
meat by gentle heat. When the meat is nearly done, he fkims
the fat off and puts it by in a flicll, throw ing a little fait into it
;
he next takes out the pieces with a wooden fork, and lays them
on a dilh, leaving the remaining liquor or broth in the pot. Supper
being now ready, the family feat thcmfelves round this difli of
meat ; and as they eat, each dips the pieces held with the point
of the knife into the fliell which contains the fat that has been
ikimmed off, and now and then flips a ladle full of the broth remaining
in the pot, w hich is taken without any mixture of flour
0 or
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 185
or other Icafoning : in this manner they finlfli their rcpalV. They
have been aexuled of eating their venifbn raw, but that the mi<-
fionary affiires us is never the calc. Bcfides the flcfliy parts of the
rein-deer, the mountain Laplander boils the legs for the lake of
the marrow,^which being confidcrcd as highly delicious, is relcrvcd
for the millionary. They likewife cook and eat the entrails,
but never with the meat. The mountain Liaplander does not
even give the bones to his dog, but ftcXvs them as long as he can
get any oil from them, for which purpofe he breaks the bones in
fmall pieces.Count lliimford himfelf could not exercife greater
economy. 7'he lights of the rein-deer he divides among his dogs.
Thefc animals arc of very great fcrvicc to him in following the
rein-deer, and feme of the Laplanders have to the number of
eight. Tlicy arc fed very fparingly ; for, except the lights, when
a rc?iiv-dccr is killed, they have only a little broth given them in
the morning and at niglit. The Laplanders not only ftew their
^cnifon, but often eat it roafted, of which they arc particularly
fond. In roafting they make ufc of wooden fpits, flicking one
end in the ground, by which means the flefli hangs before the
fire, and remains there until fuflicicntly cooked. Rafting meat
with butter is utterly unknown to them.
From what has been fliid, it will be concluded tliat the Laplanders
eat their venifon frefh, and arc not accuftomed to keep it
by means of fait : indeed, as they never kill deer during the fummcr,
they have no occafion to avail thcmfclvcs of this expedient
to preferve the venifon fweet during the reft of the year. To
VoL. II. Bb vary
i86 GENERAL REMARKS
vaiy his diet, the Laplander fometimes fmokes his venifon. To
do this, they have only to make pretty deep inclfions in the pieces
that fmoke may enter the meat, and to hang the joints on the top
of the tent, where it is fijon cured.
Venifon is the chief food of the inhabitants of the mountains
;
but thofc on the fea coaft have beef and mutton, and both cat the
flefli of bears, wolves, foxes, otters, feals, and in fliort of all animals
but fwine
;
pork being to a Laplander an abomination.
The Laplanders who are employed in catching falmon, live
upon that firti fplit and dried. Dried filli is eaten by them without
any preparatory cooking; but before they put it into their
mouth, they dip each piece in train oil. I'ilh with this kind
of fliiicc is given to children at the breafl: ; and to prepare it for
their tender mouths, the mother firft puts it into her own, and
maiVicatcs it before (lie prefents it to the infant : thus they arc accuftomed
to the luxury of train oil from their birth, for fuch
every Laplander eftcems it, and confiders its flavour as far fuperior
to that of butter. But it is not true, as has been allbrted, that
they take off a pint of train oil at a meal, or that women in labour
fwallow a quantity of it in order to cafe their pains.
When their flock of dried fifli is reduced, they colled the
heads and bones of fiili which have any thing on them, and thefe,
when roafted before the fire, are put into a kettle with flices of
the blubber of fcal, the bones having been previoufly inferted in
the belly of the feal, where they remain fome little time, that
they may be impregnated with the oil. Thefe ingredients arc
fuftcred
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 187
iuffcrcd to.ftcvv fomc time in the kettle, and when fuppofed to be
fnfficicntly cooked, arc ferved up. To feafi)n the mefs, a quantity
of oil is referved which has been drained from the fcal, in which
the moiTcls are dipped as they arc eaten.
They roaft their fifli as well as flcfli, and arc fond of the codfifh
roaflcd frcfli caught. The liver of this and other filh, bruifed
and mixed with cranberries, is confidered as a favoury dilh; and
this, as well as their food in general, which the reader will have
perceived, is of the moft undhious kind, is eaten without bread.
A diet of tliis defeription, WTre it propofed, would be rejeded by
phyficians as not conduciv'c to the prefervation of health ; yet the
example of this people making a conllant u/c of fuch food, mull
prove it perfedly compatible w ith it : for the Laplanders enjoy
that blciling in its utmoft perfeftion; chronical dilbrders, dyfenterics,
fevers, being unknown amongft them. The only epidemical
difeafe that has been remaked is a coliek, attended with
fpafms, wdiich the phyficians fuppofe to proceed from worms;
but this complaint is rather troublcfbmc than fatal, and does not
invalidate the evidence of their general Rate of uninterrupted good
health.
The little ufc they make of bread has been already remarked :
it is, howxvcr, to be oblcrv cd, that they form a cake, which they
bake on the hearth, compofed of flour mixed with water only.
The Laplanders are not without thofc dainties which arc meant
rather to tickle and pleafe the palate, than fatisfy the cravings of
hunger. Thefe little preparations of luxury, w hich are known at
B b 2 tlic
iS8 GENERAI. REMARKS
the tables of the rich and great in other parts of Europe by the
name of the defert, the reader will learn with fomc furprife, arc
not entirely unknow n to thoic fimplc people. To gratify their
tafte they peel off the inner bark of the fir-tree and fometimes
cat it frefli, and at other times heighten its flavour by hanging it
up in the fmoke. To render it completely rclifliing, it is conftantly
ftceped in their favourite train oil faucc. Of apples, nuts,
and the fruits known in other countries, they have neither the
knowledge or defire to tafte ; but to make amends, they poflefs
t
the herb angelica, of which they eat the root and leaves, either
raw or boiled in milk : thefe, with the berries that arc found
when the fnows arc melted, thoroughly ripened by having remained
buried during the long winter, ferve to amufc the time
they ufually pafs at table.
But the Laplanders chief luxury is that herb in fuch univcrfal
ufc over a great part of the globe, viz. tobacco : this is an enjoyment
of which he is fond to a degree of extacy. To obtain the
flavour of it, when not otherwdfe to be procured, he will even
chew flips of tlie bag which has held it, or chips from the calk
in which it has been packed. He takes it cither in fubftance by
chewing, or receives Its grateful fmoke through a tube. When
he chews tobacco, he will frequently fpit into his hand and regale
his nofe wdth the faliva which has imbibed the pungent falts of
the herb; thus at once gratifying the fenfes of fmcll and tafte.
When they arc aflcmbled together at a convivial party, and the
lupply of their fiivouiitc herb is deficient, they place thcmfclves in
a circle
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 1 89
a circle and pafs the pipe from mouth to mouth, fo that every
one receives four or five whiffs in turn, and all are equally gratified
with the plcafure of fmoking.
The conflant drink of the maritime and mountain Laplanders
is cold water, procured in winter by dilfolving fnow^, and this is
their beverage as long as any fnow is to be had ; for this purpofc
a quantity is always Handing in a copper veffel in their huts or
tents, as has been already mentioned. The mountain Laplander
generally pitches his tent in places where water may be had, and
by cutting through the ice contrives to fupply himfelf.
The reader is now fully acquainted with Lapland cookery, in
which, as has been obferved, the women never interfere. The
hufband performs the office of cook in all its branches, and, as
the diflics arc never walhed, the office of fcullion is not requilitc
in the economy of a Lapland houfchold.
SECTION
itj'i GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION IX.
Iloufchokl Funitiure of the Laplanders.
inventory of the .articles which conftitiite the Laplanders
houfchold furniture is very fliort : he has fufRcient to
anfwcr his wants, and more than this would prove an incumbrance.
The tent of the mountain Laplander is pitched one day
in one place, and the next day removed to another : it is much
the liimc with the maritime Ivaplandcr. Chairs, tables, and
things of this kind, which other people require, arc to them totally
unnccellary, and therefore they have them not. If they
poffefled them, they would have no where to place them, and
when they removed they muft leave them behind ; for they could
not, without the grcateil inconvenience, carry them away, A
few copper vefl'els, tin kettles, wooden bowls, and horn fpoons,
form the whole of their kitchen utenfils. To this fcanty and unexpenfive
catalogue, a few of the richeft individuals add two or three
pewter diflies, and fome filvcr fpoons. The mountain Laplander
has no light in his hut during the night but what the fire affords
him : the maritime Laplander ufes a lamp. A fea fliell holds
the oil, which fupplics the wick made of a kind of rulh, and thus
is the conftant light of a lamp readily procured from materials
8 near
CONCERNING LAlLAND. 191
near at hand. The moft ornamental piece of furniture the Laplander
poflcfl'es Is his childs cradle : this is a piece of wood properly
lhaped, and hollowed with his own hand. It has a recefs
for the infants head. Cords arc fixed to go round it, and faften
occafionally to the mothers back when flic travels ; and a ring
with beads is fufpended from the upper part, to amufc the child
as it lies on its back with its hands at liberty.
SECTION
192 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION X.
Of the Rein-Jeery the Tame as well as the JVilJ: Treatment of tame
Rein-Jeer, aiiJ the various AJvantages which the LaplanJcr Jerives
from themIn this SeSlhn mention is maJc, inciJentally, of the
Time about the Winter Srljliee, when the Sun never rifes above the
Horizon ; anJ about the Summer Solflice, when it neverfeis.
rpHE rutting fcafon of the rein-deer begins about the clofc of
^ autumn, and the female brings forth her fliwns in the
fpring of the year. The oldeft and llrongeft buck, called by the
Laplanders aino-valJo, ufually drives away all the others, and remains
the general hulhand of the herd.
It has been a notion that the hinds, or female deers, can only
bring forth in llormy weather, which commonly prevails about
the feed-time, and which from thence has obtained the name
given it by the Norwegians, of rein-kalve-rein, or fawning feafon :
but this, Mr. Leems informes us, is no more than a vulgar prejudice
; for thefe animals, he obferves, produce their young indifferently,
like all other four-footed beafts. Some of the hinds
bear annually ; thefe arc called alJo : others named koJno every
other year; and fbme that arc denominated arc barren.
As foon as the female has fawned flic lofcs her horns. The fawns
from
CONCERNING LAPLAND, 93
from their very birth arc nimble, and are ibon able to run with
equal fpeed and keep up with her dams. Every hind knows her
own fawn, let the herd be ever fo numerous.
If the hind be of an afh colour, her fawn at its birth is red, with
a ftripe down the back, and is then called mieeffc. This colour
grows darker, the red hairs falling off tow'ards autumn, when it is
called zh'uicrmal. Some rein-deer, when full grown, arc white
with afli coloured fpots : the fawns of a white mother arc always
white.
The hinds called by the Norwegiansfinhr^ exceed the bucks in
fizc ; many of them have fine branching horns, and fomc few none
at all : the horns grow again as fbon as flied ; the new ones appear
at firft like two fbft fwcllings on the head, of a blackifli colour
; the fkin as they flioot forth changes to an afli colour, and
peels off when the horns are near dropping. The horns arc thick
at the bottom, but thinner as they fpread out, with points like
fingers ; and they arc fo branching, that when thefe animals fight
they arc often faftened by their antlers, and not able to extricate
themfelvcs without the alTiftancc of man. Their haunches arc
the fatteft parts ; and thefe arc very much fo before the rutting
fcafon.
The rein-deer is much infefted in the fummer by a fly which
creeps up its noftrils, and is on that account called by Linnaeus
cefirus vifiilis: the Laplanders name for it is the trompe. The
rcIn-dccr is likewife fubjeft to a diftemper, which is contagious,
and fo fatal, that it often proves deflrudivc to numerous licrds
:
VoL. II. C c this
*94 GENERAL REMARKS
tills difordcr, for which no remedy has yet been dlfcovered, is an
afFedion of the fplecn, called the mtltfyge\ and as it Is looked upon
as totally incurable, the Laplanders kill the deer as foon as they
find fymptoms of infedion, in order to favc at lead the Ikin.
Mention has already been made of an infed which renders the
fkin of lefs value by perforating it : this Infed is often deftroyed
by applying tar to the animals back ; and from the fly beforementioned,
which attacks the noftril, the rcln-dcer is often relieved
by the fneezing occafioncd through irritation. Rein-deer are likewife
fubjed to a difordcr common to animals having hoofs ; this
is the paronychia, by the inhabitants of Norway called the llov-
Jyge, The females have likewi/e fmall eruptions on the udder,
fimilar to that which at prefent is known in England by the name
of cow-pock.
The principal food of the rein-deer in winter, is a fort of white
mofs, called by the natives of Norw ay quit-mojfe ; its botanical
name is Uchen rangiferinus. To come at this mofs the animal is
obliged to dig with its foot under the fnow. It fometimes happens,
although but rarely, that the fnow is fo frozen that the reindeer
is not able to get at the ground ; w ere this to be the cafe for
any length of time, there would be great danger of the whole race
of thefc animals being ftarved and loft, to the entire ruin of the
Laplanders : but fo great, fays the miffionary, has been the kindnefs
of Providence hitherto, that no fuch event has ever happened,
and perhaps never may.
The rein-deer vvhich arc tamed, and conftitutc the chief wealth
of
CONCERNING LAPLAND, *95
of the Laplanders, are never houfed during the vvluilc year : in
fummer they find plenty of grafs, and in winter they live chlcHy
on the white mofs before mentioned. In Ibmc parts of Norway
thefe animals arc ufed inftcad of horfes, and are there kept in Rails
during the winter. The rein-deer is particularly fond of mans
urine, and will greedily lick up the fnow whereon it has fallen.
It is likewife faid that they hunt after a particular kind of mice,
of which they eat the heads only : th^ir drink in winter is collecled
from the fnow, which they gather as they pafs along when
drawing the fledges.
The greateft enemy of the rein-deer is the w^olf, and it requires
the utmofl: diligence and circumfpedion of the people to guard
and defend their herds againft: the infidious attacks of this inveterate
and cunning foe. They endeavour to affright and keep him
off by means of flakes driven into the earth, having pieces of wornout
and tattered tunicks and other garments hanging on them :
but it is chiefly during any violent ftorm that they have occafion
to be mofl vigilant; for at that time this depredator is on the lookout
for an opportunity to invade the timorous herd : in the moment
of alarm, every one of the Laplanders houfchold is then put
in motion, fome to look to the rein-deer, whilfl others make a loud
noife by beating with flicks againft a fledge, brought without the
tent for that purpofe : and, indeed, there is a ncccffity for the
greateft precaution on the part ofthe Laplanders, bccaufc the tame
rein-deer is fo fimplc an animal, that if not carefully protefted, it
becomes an eafy prey to the wolf. No fooncr is that voracious
C c2 beaft
196 GENERAL REMARKS
bcuft difcovered by the herd, than the filly creatures, inftead of
running towards the tents, and putting themfelves under the fafeguard
of men, fly towards the woods, where fomc are overtaken
and killed by the wolf, who is obferved to ufe his utmoft endeavours
to keep betwixt them and the tents when he finds them
feeding at a diftancc. In this purfuit the wolf has the advantage
of the rein-deer when they are running down hill, and he Is fure
to overtake and feize It : but It Is not the fame up hill. If the
wolf catch the rein-deer by the haunch. It often happens that the
deer cfcapes ; and when he obtains his prey, it is generally by faftening
on its throat, by which means he ftrangles the poor animal
in a fliort time. The miflfionary fays, he faw fix at one time lying
on the fnow, killed by wolves who had been driven away on the
alarm being given : upon examination of the carcafes, no wound
appeared to have been inflifted, fo dexteroufly had thefe deftrudllve
enemies effefted their purpofe. It is obfervable, that the wolf
never devours his prey on the fpot where he kills it, but drags it
away to fomc dillance ; and it is further remarked, the miflfionary
tells us, that in devouring it, he places the head towards the eaft ;
at leaft, he fays, the Ikcletons arc always found in the woods placed
in that pofition. I cannot fiiy that I give entire credit to this report
: probably the good miffionary has been mifinforined. Whilft
the wolves are on the hunt for their prey, they appear always to be
accompanied by a number of crows and ravens, and the Laplanders
arc commonly apprized of the wolfs approach by the clamour of
thefe birds. It has been noticed, that fuch rein-deer as were faftened
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 197
tcncd by ropes to a ftakc have been fpared, whilft others that were
at liberty have been carried off : this muft be owing to a fear conceived
by the wolf at the fight of the animals tether, or to fomc
fimilar caufe ; for the like has not happened, when the deer has
broken loofi; and betaken liimfcif to flight.
The more readily to know his own deer, each Laplander puts a
particular mark upon thofe belonging to him, which generally confills
of an incifion in the animals ear. .In order to keep their herd
together and prevent their llraying, thp rein-deer arc twice driven
out to feed, under proper attendance, and as many times brought
up to the tents every day ; and this method is conftantly followed
during the depth of winter, when the days arc fliorteft, and the
nights fixteen hours long.
They who arc but little acquainted with the folar fjftcm will
be at no lofs to account for the reafon, why the fun in that climate
remains for feven weeks together beneath the horizon, and
loft In the lower hcmifpherc, leaving inftcad of a clear day-light,
a twilight only of a few hours. It is not, however, fo dark, but
that when the fky is free from clouds a man may fee to write, or
do any common bufinefs in the fliorteft days, from ten in the forenoon
to one oclock in the afternoon, without the help of a candle
: and as during the winter folftice the fun withdraws his light
for fuch a length of time, it may be readily conceived, that the
Icflcr luminaries, in thofe days that arc fliorteft, muft fliinc very
bright, and that the moon gives her light by day as well as night.
After the fpace of feven weeks is elapfed, the fun again makes liis
appearance,
198 GENERAL REMARKS
appearance, renewed in fplcndour, and to common apprchcnfioii
more brilliant. This happens about the firft of April, by which
time the days arc fo far lengthened, that the fliadcs of an univcrfal
night begin to di/appear : and as the fun ccafcs to illuminate the
land for feven weeks in the winter, fo in the fummer Iblfticc he
makes the Laplander amends by appearing above the horizon, and
fliiuing night and day during the flimc fpacc of time ; w herein it
is to be obferved, that the nights fun appears paler and Icfs bright
than that of the day. ,
But to return to our rein-deerWhen brought back to the tents
from feeding, theie animals repofc thcmfelvcs, and form a circle
round the tents: while they arc in fcarch of the mofs which is
their food, they fpread widely over the country; let the weather
be fair or foul, they arc driven out to feed at the regular and accullomed
time ; and as the herdfmen, in order to flieltcr themfel\
es from a fnow'-llorm, foractimes retire bcliind a hill of ihow^,
where they may be overtaken by deep, it often happens that a
w^olf carries off one of the herd which has ftragglcd to a diftance
from the reft. The office of tending the herds is in general performed
by the children and fervants ; but when the rein-deer are
the property of a family juft eftablillied, without children or fervants,
in that cafe the wdfe takes the charge upon hcrfclf ; and if
flic chance to have a young child, which flic fiicklcs, flic takes the
child, in the cradle before deferibed, with her, and follows the
herd, however inclement the weather may be. In driving the reindeer,
the dogs which the Laplanders keep, and train for this purpofe,
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 199
pofe, arc found of the greateft ufc ; and fo well arc they broken- in,
that they obey the llighteft fignal : this feems to be communicated
with as much celerity by the dogs to the rein-deer, \vhich, though
ever fo widely difperfed, foon collcdl themfelves in a body. In the
winter, when the herd is returned to the tent, and laid down to
reft, the Laplander, or his wife, goes out and counts the number,
in order to afeertain iiany be miffing, and become the prey of the
wolf. The Laplanders feldom fail in,dilcovcring when the herd
has fuftained a lols of the kind, although it would appear no eafy
taffi wdicn the number is very confidcrablc, which is now and then
the cafe ; for fomc Laplanders arc faid to poflbfs from one to two
thoufand head of rein-deer.
It has been ftated, that it is a rule wath the mountain Laplander
to drive his herd of rein-deer, by turns, twice to pafturc, and
twice home to his tent in the courfe of a day. In the fummer,
howxvcr, the gelt rein-deer, and the hinds, or females, are futlered
to range the woods without a herdfman. In this Icafon, likevvife,
the hinds arc for a certain time allowed to fucklc their lawns ;
after which they arc driven into an inclofurc made with branches
of trees, at fomc fmall diftance from the tents, where the w omen,
whofc peculiar office it is, befmear the dugs of the hinds witli
dung, in order that when they are fet at liberty again, the fawns
may not fuck : after a proper time, the hinds arc driven into the
fame inclofurc, when their dugs arc found diftended, and arc
drained of their milk, being firft clcanfcd from the foil. But thelc
animals do not readily fufter themfelves to be milked, nor until a
rope
200 GENERAL REMARKS
rope is thrown over their horns to faften them. Although a reindeer
docs not give more milk in common than a flic-goat, yet,
from the numerous herds kept by the Laplanders, they find no
want of milk, cheefe, and butter.
They fix yokes about the necks of fuch of their rein-deer as arc
particularly addided to tlraggllng from the herd. The ropes they
have are made from feal-fkin, ^s are the reins ufed for the fledges.
The Laplander, in performing tlie operation of gelding upon
the rein-deer, makes no incifion with a knife, but employs his
teeth for that purpofe, bruifing the animal's tcfticles by biting
them, but w Ithout infliding any outward wound. The callratcd
deer have difterent names according to their ages ; one of tw o
years old is called %ntreek, of three years vovt^ers, of four
of five kmtjhis-harergey of fix makan
:
after they arc feven years old
they have no frefli name, but arc flylcd namona-lapeki that is to
fay, aged, or paft the full age or name. The rein-deer, after that
operation is fuccclsfully performed, increafes in fize and flcfli beyond
the other males, and becomes of great value to his owner ;
infomucli, that any thing valuable is find to be worth ^ gelt rchi-
deer\ audit is clleemed the greateft compliment that one Laplander
can pay to another, to tell him he has as great a regard for
him as for a rein-deer geldhtg.
When the Laplander is about to kill a rein-deer, he firft fattens
him to a pod with a rope, and then ftabs him in the neck with a
knife, which he withdraw^s from the wound ; the animal then
ftifs a few flops and falls : after it has lain about a quarter of an
hour,
CONCERNING LAPLAND 201
hour, the fkin is ftripped from the carcafe : the wound is made fo
dexteroufly, that no blood iffucs from it, but is found in the infidc,
whence it is carefully taken out and inclofcd within the paunch
that has been cleanfed and preferved for ufc. The hide is afterw^
ards ftrctched out wdth flicks proper for the purpofc, and carefully
dried : the ikin ofthe legs is firft taken oflT, and aftCrw^ards
fluffed, that it may dry more expedliioufly.
If a mountain Laplander happen to iVc reduced to a fmall flock
of rein-deer, he quits the mountains wnth his flimily for the fcaficlc,
and betakes himfelf to fifliing, leaving the few deer he poffclfcs
in the charge of fomc other perfon.
From what has been faid in the former part of this fedion, the
reader will cafdy recoiled: that the Laplanders flock of rein-deer
k tame, and bred under his own eye. It fometimes happens during
the rutting fcafon, in autumn, that a buck of the w ild breed
mixes with the tame herd : if he chance to cfcape the bullets of
the Laplander, Who ufes his utmoft endeavour to fhoot him, and
impregnate a female rein-deer, the fawn, which is the produce of
this irregular cohjundion, rc/cmbles neither fire nor dam ; it is a
mongrel creature, Icfs than the wild rein-deer, and larger than the
tame ; for in general the wild breed are the largcft of the tw'o.
This mule rein-deer is called by the Laplanders a baevrek.
VoL. IL Dd SECTION
202 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION xr.
0/ the Moik of hanicjjing the Rem-Deer, and the different Sledges
that are vfcd hy the LaphvukrsThe Manner of Travelling with
Rein-Deer and Sledges,
OUCH of the Laplanders as arc rich make ufe of gelt rein-deer ^ for their fledges ; they who arc lefs
wealthy content themfelvcs
with a fledge drawn by a hind, of female. It requires great
pains to break thefe animals to the harnefs ; and fome are never
to be taught at all, whilft others are brought to it by perfevcrance,
and after a length of time.
The gear, or harnefs of the rein-deer, Is called by the Laplanders
haggle. They ufe only a rein or thong for guiding the deer,
which, like a halter for horfes, is faftened to the head of the
beaft, whilft the other end is held in the hand, being fixed by a
loop to the right thumb. Over the neck of the animal is put a
broad collar, made of untanned rein-deer skin, to which a rope
is^aftened of thongs cut from fcal-skin, or the hide of an ox, and
lifted together: this rope paffes under the belly, betwixt the
fore and hind legs, and is made faft to the fledge ; the rope is
covered with a foft skin, that it may not gall the animals legs.
Another
CONCERNING LAPLAND.
Another collar is fometimes put on by way of ornament, although
the rope before-mentioned may allb be faftened to it : this collar
is made of kerfey cloth, and cmbcllillied with tinfcl, having a ball
hanging from it at the bottom.
A broad girth furrounds the body of the rein-deer, and is called
by the Laplanders aagotas. That part of the girth which is under
the belly is of leather, the other, covering the back and fidcs, of
kerfey, ornamented with tinfel, and lined with ilviii ; but this
girth is not in general ufc, though it certainly appears to be of
feme fcrvice, inafmuch as it has an oj)ening for the rope beforementioned
to pafs through, and by that means caufes the fledge
to proceed w'ith fteadinefs ; whereas the cord being faftened to the
neck collar only, admits of ftiaking, and unfteady motion out of
the ftraight line, as the animal bounds from fide to fide in the velocity
and violence of his progrefs. This entire harnefs, bcfidcs
other trappings which are only uled occafionally, and not ncccfl'ary
to be here fpccilicd, is the wwk of the Lapland women.
The fledge Is made cxaAly in the fhape of a boat, having a flat
ftern. It has a keel and thwarts (to fpcak the language of boatbuilding),
and the fide planks have their ends faftened with
wooden pegs. The fledge is caulked within, fo that no water
can enter through the fides. The rope by which the fledge is
drawn is fixed to the head-poft. The Laplanders have four
difterent kinds of fledges. One called that is to fay,
the portable fledge, is moft commonly ufed: this Is entirely
open from head to ftern, and fo light that it may be taken up and
D d 2 carried
204 GENERAL REMARKS
carried in the arms : it Is fo Ihort^ that a Laplander^ fitting in ther
ftern, touches the head with his feet, its width juft admitting of
room for his legs and thighs clofed together, and fo low that
with his hands he can fcoop the fnow on cither fide of him. The
fecond kind of fledge, or the raido-ikrreSy anfwcrs the purpofe of
a cart, and is calculated to tranfport goods. It exceeds the gictkierres
in length, breadth and depth, and is without a deck, like
the other ; but in order to keep out the fnow, when loaded, it is
c
covered over with fkins, which arc faftened to the fides by means
of the twifted fincw's of the rein-deer, for which purpofe loops cl*
leather arc placed there. The third fort of fledge, called pulke, is
likcwdfc employed as a travelling carriage : it is payed on the outfide
with pitch, and differs from the firft kind only in having a
fcal-fkin fixed to the head, which covers the legs and knees of the
paffengcr. To this feal-lkin b joined a rug, which fpreads over
his lap, and defends him from the fnow : this likewife is faftened
by leather loops fixed to the fides, fo that only the upper part of
the body of the traveller is uncovered, who is befidcs feated on
Ikins placed in the bottom, as in the fledge called giet-kierres.
The foui;]bh fpccies of fledge, denominated hk-kierres, is likewife
payed oh the outfidc with pitch, and ferves for tranfporting provifions
: it is larger than the pulke and giet-kierres, and has a convex
deck over it from head to ftern : from the ftern there is a projeSing
bolt, by which they raife the hatch when any thing is to
be drawn out or flowed under the deck. The Laplanders keep
their tents under a wooden covering, called bildagai, where the
fledges
CONCERNING LiiPLAND, 205
fledges likewifc may be lodged which arc not In ufc ; in general,
however, they turn them upon the fliow, keel upwards, and In
this pofition they anfwer the purpofe of repofitorics for their vcnifon.
Before the Laplander enters the fledge, he puts on his gloves,
wliich have the fur on the outfide; afterwards he places himfclf
in it, taking the rein, or halter, faftened to the rein deers head,
and tying it about his right thumb. In the mean time the deer
flands (1111, and the rein hangs on the left fide. When the man
is ready to fet olF, he fliakes the rein with violence from fide to
fide, and the animal fprings forward at great fpccd. The driver
direds the courfe of the deer, which is irregular and ferpcntinc,
by pulling the rein on the fide he would have him go. When
the Laplander would travel at the fullcfl: fpccd which the reindeer
Is able to make, he places himfclf on his knees, encouraging
him by certain founds or other movements to mend his pace
;
and when he would have him flop, he fliifts the rein from the
right fide to the left, upon which the animal immediately flands
ftilL
If it happen that a rein-deer prove rdlitf, or inclined to run
away, the Laplander, if in company with others, gives up his rein
to the driver of the fledge immediately before him, who ties it to
his fledge, and thus the unruly animal is checked in his violent
fpccd by the more fober rein-deer harnefTcd to the fledge which
precedes. As, in defeending fleep hills, the fledge is apt to glide
forward, and prefs upon the hinder legs of the animal, a fccond
o rein206
GENERAL REMARKS
rciii'dccr is put to tlic flcni of the fledge, with a rein or halter
faftened to his horns : this ferves the jiimc purpofe as the breeching
belonging to the barnefs of carriages. It fometimes happens
that the rein-deer which is placed behind the fledge, by moving
forwards, does not anfwer the intention of checking its velocity
in the defeent ; in which cafe, after a trial, the animal is rejected,
and one found that is better trained and more docile. In going
down fuch hills as are Icfs fteep, the driver can, by a dexterous
movement of his body only, regulate the Aiding of bis fledge, fo
as to have no occafion to tack a deer to its ftern. Where the
defeent is of the ftcepeft kind, a further Iccurity is recpiired,
namely, the rein-deer is taken from the head and made fafl: to
the ftern of the fledge, w'hen the fledge, gliding clown, brings the
animal after it, which ferves as a check to the precipitancy of tl]c
motion.
The following is the method taken in tranfporting baggage in
the fledges before-mentioned, to which the Laplander gives the
name raido-k'icms
:
the condiidor of the train of fledges feats
himfclf in the firft fledge, to the ftern of vvliicli the rein of the
fecond fledge is faftened, and in like manner the reft follow to the
number c^f three, four, or five fledges, connedled w ith one another,
each fledge being drawn by its refpedive rein-deer, and guided in
the proper track by the one immediately preceding: the train is
doled by a rein-deer not harnefl'ed to any fledge, which is done
with the intention that in defeending any declivity this rein-deer
^nay be able to check and rcfift the impctuofity of the fledges in
their
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 207
their progrefs. It fcldoin happens that the fnow is of fuch depth
that the rein-deer arc unable to make their way through it : fometiincs,
however, it is the cale that the animal finks in up to his
belly, when, as may be fuppofed, the traveller can proceed but
very tardily.
SECTION
2o8 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION XIL
Of the Wandering Laplanders, and their Migrations.
^HE maritime Laplanders only change their habitations twice
a year, that is to fay., in fpring and autumn : in doing this
they leave their huts ftanding until their return ; but this rule is
not obferved by the mountain Laplander, who, like the ancient
Scythians, or the modern Tartars and Arabs, is continually wandering
from place to place. In the middle of fummer the mountain
Laplanders, with their families and herds, move towards the
fca-coaft, and on the approach of autumn, return to the mountains,
Their progrefs is but flow, for they do not proceed above
four Englifli miles each day, and the whole extent of their migration
from the fca-coaft to the borders of Swedilh Lapland, docs
not exceed thirty. When arrived there, they may be faid to be
ftationary ; bccaufc afterwards they only remove to fliort diftanccs,
as occafion requires, from one hill or wood to another. As foon
as winter is pafled away, they feek the fea-coaft in the fame
leifurcly manner, until they reach the fpot which they have deftined
for their fummer rcfidcncc.
On the road by which they pafs to the lea-coaft, the mountain
Laplanders conftru<ft a fort of hovel for the purpofe of dcpofiting
provifions,
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 239
provlfions, and fuch neccflaries as they may have occafion for in
their journey. In their return to the mountains in autumn, the
rein-deer being in that fcafon particularly fat, they kill as much
vcnifoii as they Judge neceffary, and lay it up in thefe ftore-houfes,
where it remains during the winter, being intended as a fu])j)ly for
themfeives and houfchold in the follow ing Ipring, when they fliall
l)e on their progrefs to the coaft.
Ill fpring and autumn, the earth being freed from its incumbrance
of fnow, the mountain Laplander and his family travel on
foot, his tent and the reft of his baggage being conveyed by the
rein-deer; and if his wife have a child at the brcall, the inflint is
carried by her in the cradle already deferibed.
When he removes in winter, he takes with him every thing
belonging to his tent, even to the ftoncs which form his hearth
;
and this he does in order that he may meet with neither difappointment
nor delay when arrived at the fpot whereon he intends
to pitch his tent. For the brulliwood with which he carpets the
infidc of his tent, as well as firewood, he trufts to what he may be
able to procure within a little diftancc. To convey his tent iu
the winter fcafon, he has a particular fledge, to which he harneffes
one of his inferior deer; fb that it may be well fuppofed his
tent and all that belongs to it, is of no great weight.
The following is the order of the winter march ; the hufband
proceeds in the leading fledge, and is follow ed by the wife in the
fecond, which fhe drives herfclf ; and if flie give fuck, flic has her
child in the cradle by her fide, carefully wrapped up in furs, with
VoL. II. E e a fniall
210 GENERAL REMARKS
a fmall fpace left open before Its mouth to breathe through and
receive the nipple, which, whenever flie has occafion to put into
the childs mouth, fhe is under the neceffity of flopping the
fledge, as flie is obliged to kneel towards the fide of it, whilfl flie
applies the infant to her breafl. The refl of the jfamily follow
the fledges on foot, having in charge to drive the rein-deer the
way they go.
It muft appear wonderful that the Laplanders arc able to travel
in the winter by night as \yell as day, when the earth prefents one
entire furflice or lliect of fnow, and not a Angle veflige is difeovcrable
of human induflry and labour to direft their way, the
fnow flying about in all diredions at the fame time, and almofl:
blinding them ;
yet it is certain, that they are at no difficulty to
find the fpot to which they arc bound, and very rarely meet with
any accident. They fix bells to the harnefs of the rein-deer, as
before-mentioned, in order that they may be kept together by
hearing, when they cannot fee one another, after the light of their
fliort day fails them. To guide them in their route, they make
obfervation of the quarter from whence the wind blow\s, and by
night arc direded by the flars; and, as the miffionary obferves.
Providence and thefe never fail them, fo that he does not remember
more than one fatal accident happening during the ten years
that, as has been already mentioned, he lived amongfl them.
The Laplander has always his flint, fleel, and matches ready by
him, which he conflantly carries in a pouch in his bofom, occaflonally
to light his pipe of tobacco, or a fire, as neceffity requires
;
for
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 2II
for it often happens, that when he is upon a journey, he is obliged
to flop by the way, either from its length, or from being prevented
going on by the weather. In luch a cafe he has his travelling
tent, which he ereds as fpeedily as poflible, and, lighting a fire,
repofes himlclf until he thinks proper to purfue the remainder of
his journey. Whilft he is thus lodged in his tent, the rein-deer
is made fall to fome tree.
E e 2 SECTION
GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION XIIL
Of the Quadrupeds and Birds in LapJand,
T^'MNMAIIK, or Norwcglsin Lapland, abounds in wild rein-deer
;
but as the inhabitants breed large numbers of the tame fort,
their whole time is taken up in attending thefe, and they have but
little Icilbrc to Inint the wild, which arc called When the
Laplander is inclined for the cha/e in I'ummcr or autumn, he
takes with him a dog of good feent, which fcldom fails of finding
out a deer in a very fliort time. As foon as the fportfman has
roufed his game, he muzzles the dog that he may not bark and
fright it away. If, on firing, he difeovers that he has only
wounded the deer flightly, he unmuzzles the dog and fends him
in purfuit ; and as the rein-deer generally keeps the dog at bay,
the man has an opportunity of firing a fccond time, when he
rarely milTcs killing. In autumn, during the rutting feafon, the
Laplander drives feme of his hinds to thofc parts wdicrc he cxpefts
to find the wild rein-deer, and upon a buck prefenting himfelf,
he fires till he brings him down. It often happens that two
bucks conteft for the femah s, when the Laplander, ufing the advantage
of their being engaged, kills one, and fomctinacs both of
them.
In
CONCERNING LAlLANl).
In winter the Laplander is able to hunt the rein-deer by tracking
them in the fnow. When he is come in fight of his game,
he quits his fledge, and tying his draught rein-deer to a tree, he
purfues the wild deer on foot. In many parts of Lapland the
wild relii-decr is taken by the following devices. When tlie
fnow has fallen in large quantities, fo as to be paflable only for
the natives in their fnow flioes, they go in chafe after the wild

rein-deer, which are unable to run fall, being impeded by the deep
%
fnow ; and coming up with them they knock them on the head.
Another method is, by fufpending ropes with a running noofe in a
narrow pafs, near tlic places where the wild rein-deer ufually harbour,
through w hich the deer being driven, it is hampered by the
horns and taken. In fomc diftrids of Lapland the wild rein-deer
has been caught by the following device. A fpace is fenced off in
thofe parts which the deer chiefly frequent, and on a fpot proper
for the purpofe : this fpace has a wide entrance, and encrcafcs in
width in a circular form, ending with a narrow door or palTage.
The deer driven within this Inclofurc, in order to avoid his purfuers,
betakes himfelf to this narrow pafs, which leads him to
a declivity ; this is clofcd upon him at the bottom, and he yields
himfelf a prey, being unable to return, and having his purfuers at
his heels. This method was oftencr put in pradicc formerly than
of late years, as was that of forcing the deer to take to a lake or
ftanding water, when they were knocked on the head, or Ihot on
landing. It has been faid that the Lapland women hunt with
their huflbands ; but the miffionaiy affirms that this alTcrtion is
groundlcfs.
214 GENERAL REMARKS
groundlcfs. It fhould fecm, that the Laplanders wife confines
herfclf to the duties of her fituation, and is not ambitious, like
feme of her fex in other countries to the fouth of Lapland, to diftinguifli
hcrfelf by cxercifes which are better adapted, and more
properly belong to the men.
Hares exift in great plenty in Lapland ; they arc white in winter,
but in fummer of the colour they arc ufually found in other
r
places. The Laplanders fometimes flioot them, but for the moft
part take them in fnarcs and traps.
Bears are common in Finmark, and different parts of Norway.
The rein-deer, by their fw iftnefs, are able to elude thofe enemies
;
but cows, flieep, and goats frequently become their prey. Bcfidcs
flefh, the bears are exceedingly fond of berries, infomuch, that
thefe owe their vernacular name to them ; the fame appellation in
the northern languages fignifying both. Of berries the bear finds
a fufficient fupply during the fummer in the woods ; he eats herbs
and grafs likewife In that feafon ; flcfli therefore feems to be eaten
by him through neceflity, and the want of other food in winter.
The Laplanders generally affail the bears with their rifle guns
but if they be not killed or difabled by the firft fliot, the hunter
ftands in great jeopardy, for the wounded animal will then return
to the attack with the greateft fury. The bear is likewife enfnared
by ftratagems of various kinds. * It is a prevailing opinion
in the countries of northern Europe, that this animal fupports
himfclf through the winter by a milky kind of moifture that
exudes from his fore paws, and which he fucks, uttering at the
fame
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 215
fame time a ftrange kind of growling or murmur. However that
may be, it is pretty certain that the bear feeks his prey, in the
winter fcafon, only in the night time. Now it often happens
that the Laplander, in fcarch of very different game, by means of
his dogs, difeovers the retreat which the bear has chofen for his
winter quarters. Whenever this is the cafe, the Laplander prepares
to furprife him in his retirement ; and in order to this, cuts
down from the nearcfl trees a numbtr of branches, which he
plants and interweaves very ftrongly ab:)ut the entrance of his den,
leaving a fpacejuft fuflicient for him to thruft his head through:
this done, and being provided with a hatchet, the Laplander fets
about roufing the fleeping animal, wdio, provoked with the hunters
temerity and infults, advances with the utmoft rage towards
the opening ; but no fooner does he put his head through the
wicket, which has been made for the purpofc, than the hunter
levels a ftroke with the hatchet, which, if it hit him below the
eyes, to a certainty brings the bead to the ground. In hunting
both the rein-deer and bears, the Laplanders make great ufe of
their dogs. The greafe of .the bear is in much requeft with the
inhabitants as a fovcrcign cure, in form of an unguent, for pains in
the limbs ; but it is a prevailing opinion with them, that it mull
be applied according to the fex, the male bears greafe as a remedy
for the mans ailments, and the females for thofe of the womans,
and that, when indifcriminatcly ufed, it can be ofmo fervice.
Few or no lynxes are feen in Finmark, but wolves are very numerous
; and for thefe there are various names in different j>arts
of
2X6 GENER/U. REMARKS
of Lapland. Their fur is in general of a yellow or tawny colour,
but fome are whitifli. The Laplanders often flioot the wolves,
but more frequently catch them in traps : the fkins are dried for
fale.
The fox is an animal of which Finmark produces a.varicty, and
in the greateft numbers. Some of them arc red, others red with
a blaek crofs ; others quite black, and fome black w ith long hairs
on the back, which arc of a filvcr colour at their extremities.
The {kins of thefe laft, well known by the name of the Jiherhaired
fox, arc greatly valued all over Europe ; and, by an order
iiTued in 1052, were referved for his Danifli Majeftys ufc only.
At prefent they arc fold to any purchafer, and chiefly to the Ruffian
merchants, wdio import them into their own country, w here
they are employed to ornament the drelTes of the firft perfonages
of the Ruffian empire. Befidcs thefe already fpecified, there are
found wdiitc foxes with black cars and feet, having white tails
with black hairs intermixed. The fox is traced in the fnow, and
followed by the Laplander till within gun fliot. Sometimes he
is decoyed to a fpot where flefh has been buried under the fnow
with a view of alluring him ; and while he is eagerly digging
for the bait which he has feented, the hunter from his conceal*
ment fires upon him. This kind of chafe is ufually praftifed in
the night w^hen the moon fhines, or by the light of the aurora
borealis, whiclf is peculiarly bright in this climate. The fox is
likewife dug out of his earth ; and a variety of ftratagems and
devices are called in aid to bring him into the power of his perf)
fccutors
;
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 217
fccutors; he fometimes tails even a vidlm topoifon. It has happened
that the Ibx, when caught by the leg, has left a part of it
in the trap, and hobbled away on three legs ; and It is believed
by the Laplanders, that the fox will facrifice the leg by biting It
otF, In order thereby to regain his liberty : but is it not more rational
to fuppbfc the lofs of leg to be occaiioned by the bone being
firft broken by the trap, and then the fraftured part of the leg
feparated, by the frequent and violent efforts to extricate himfclf
from the inthralmcnt ? No creature, except man, has been obferved
to make a willing and voluntary facrifice of life or limb.
Martens are found in FInmark. Of thefc there are three kinds
or fpccics ; theJione marten^ fo called from his frequenting rocky
places ; his fur is fhort and blackifli, and his tail of a yellowllh
colour, with an alh coloured throat. The fecond fpecics is called
the hirch-marten, as he frequents the fpots where thofe trees grow
;
his fur is yellow, the tail of a purplifh colour, and the throat
white. The third fort is called, for thedike reafon, thefir-marterty
being found amongft the fir-trees ; its fur is yellow, the tail
of a tawny colour, and the throat white. The martens are all
taken in traps,
Thcguloy or glutton, called by the Danes viclfraSy and by the
Laplandcis gjeedk, is to be met with in Finmark ; but it is rather
an uncommon animal. It is furnifhed with (harp teeth and claws,
and although greatly inferior in fize to the rein-deer, is faid to
have frequently killed thofe animals; but this is effeded rather
by furprife than by open aflault, and in the following manner.
VoL. II. F f The
2i8 GENERAL REMARKS
The glutton climbs up a tree, and when he fees a deer within his
reach, he leaps up its back,, and fattens himfclf by his teeth and
claws until he has killed the animal. The glutton is charged
with a mott extraordinary pertinacity of appetite, and is faid to
cafe his ttomach when overloaded, by fqueezing out its contents
between two trees ; after which he falls to eating again, and continues
the like pra<ttice as long as any part of his prey remains uneaten.
This curious circumttance rcfpcAing the glutton is a tale
that has been often told, and derived from ancient times, yet docs
not on that account deferve the more credit. The better and
more probable opinion is, that this animal having been efpied between
two trees, in order, by rubbing againft them, to relieve the
itching of his ikin, it has been fuppofed that he had placed himfelf
there for the purpofe before-mentioned; and hence this
ttory has taken its rife, and feems to have given name to the
bead. The glutton is moreover accufed of robbing thofe repofitorics
wc have already deferibed, in which the Laplanders ttorc
the venifon intended for their fummer emigration; but this
is a theft which, unlefs there is evidence that the animal was
caught in the fadl, is as chargeable to the wolf or fox, both of
them of great notoriety as dexterous thieves, and confeflcdly here
in great numbers. The fkin of the glutton fetches a great price,
and is ufed for muffs and the linings of coats. From the fkin of
the legs, the Lapland women cut out patterns for gloves, which
they work with tinfcl after their faihion.
The beaver is found in feveral parts of Finmark by the fide oi
lakes
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 219
lakes and rivers. Wonderful ftories are related of this animal, of
his extraordinary fagacity in conftruding his habitation for the
winter, which includes lodging and ftore rooms, bclides a cold
bath ; moreover, that in the conftrudion of this habitation, he
makes ufe of his tail as a trowel, &c. all which arc entertaining in
the perufal, but exceed the utmoft ftretch of probability. As
impoflible is it to believe tlj^t the beaver Ihould fufFer himfclf to
be drawn about by his fellows, in order to form a carriage for
the conveyance of birchen flicks for .building ; a circumftance
which is inferred from the appearance of their fur being much
rubbed, as if this might not be more naturally accoifnted for, by
fuppofing their fkins to be thus flrippcd of their hair from creeping
out and in of their haunts. Thefe narrations arc to be feen
in the accounts of fome travellers, but we would rather refer to
them, than give them a place here, as we wifh more to inform
than merely to amufe. The cqflormm prepared from the beaver
is ufed as a medicine, and is ftid to have the power of jdriving
away the whale from fliips or boats wherein it happens to be
found ; for which purpofc filhermcn occafionally take it to I'ca
with them. The Laplanders difpofc of the fkins they take in
Ruflia, the ufe of which in the manufafture of hats, and in lining
garments, is well known. White beavers have been obferved in
fome parts of Lapland ; but this is merely a variety, or rather a
monftrous produftion of nature, and to be clafled with inftanccs
of the like kind in other fourTooted animals as well as bird.s.
The beavers are taken in their lurking places by a trap door, which
F f 2 lliuts
220 GENERAL REMARKS
(bus up its entrance, and prevents the animal's egrefs. The Laplanders
give to the beaver the name, of majeg.
Otters abound in I'inmark, where they are called by the Laplanders
zhjevres, a name which is applicable to the male as well as
female of this animal. There are three fpccies or varieties of the
otter, as, ill. The fea-ottcr, called by the Norwegians the /lav, or
brem- otter ; the fur of this otter is eparfe, and its colour a pale
yellow : thefe are very conamon, and the priee of a Ikin is a Danilh
crown. 2d. The bay-ottor, called in Norway thefiord-otter, and
fo named becaufe found in the bays and harbours : this otter is
fmaller, and^is fur brighter than the former, and of a blackilh
colour ; a fkin of this otter will produce three Danilh half crowns.
3. The frclh-watcr-otter, .called in Norway vas-otter, having a
white breaft and raven-coloured back. The Ikin of this otter is
worth five Danilh half crowns, and often more. The otter is
eafily tamed, and may be trained to catching filh for the benefit
of its mailer ; and notwithllanding it is but a fmall animal itlclf,
it is able to feize and bring a large cod-filh to lliore. Whilll this
animal is feeding, he conRantly keeps his eyes Ihut, which enables
the hunter to approach him until he is within gun-lhot. Befidcs
Ihooting, the Laplander takes the otter in fnares and traps, and
fells the Ikins to the Ruflian merchants, who make confiderably
more than cent, per cent, by difpofing of them again in Tartary.
The coaft of Finmark abounds with feals, which are found
there of various fizes : the skins of fome kinds are black, of others
white, and of Ibme of both colours mixed. There are likewife
fome
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 221
fomc of that fpecies of animals which arc known by the name
of fca-horfes (trichechus rofmapis), by the Norwegians called hvaU
ros^ and by the Laplanders niofji. The fea-horfe has broad noftrils,
a thick tongue, and large prominent teeth, by which he can
faften himfclf fo the rocks fo as not eafily to be drawn from them
;
I
thefe teeth are, for their fuperior whitenefs, preferred to ivory.
The Laplanders fometimes flioot them, and often attack them
with clubs when they come on Ihore at the feafon of their breeding.
On thefe occafions the males make a flout refiflance, and
the femjUcs will fight in defence of their young till they themfelves
are killed. This animal, as well as the feal, is amphibious,
being as often feen on the rocks and on the beach as in the Tea.
Squirrels, to which the Norwegians give the name of ikorn, and
the Laplanders orre, are taken in many parts of Finraark. They
are generally Ihot with blunt arrows from crofs-bows,' to preferve
the beauty of their skins. When they are fold, they arc put up
in lots of forty Ikins each, which produce to the firft feller a crown
or dollar.
The ermine, which is a kind of weazlc, breeds in Finmark in
immenie numbers : to this little animal the Laplanders give the
name of boitta. The point of its tail is black, and the reft of its
body white. It is taken in traps, and, like the common weafle,
is exceedingly voracious and bold, frequently attacking animals of
a much larger fize than itfelf. When caught in a trap it conftantly
voids its urine, which, if it touch the skin, generally ftains it yellow
and fpoils it.
In
222 GENERAL REMARKS
In Finmark and throughout Norway arc found imtnenfe numbers
of mice, called by the Laplanders lemmick, which are the prey
of both birds and beafts. It is a received opinion amongft the Laplanders,
that thc/e mice drop down from the clouds ; a falfe notion,
which appears to have been conceived from tht circumRance
of many having been obferved to fall from on high, no doubt carried
off by birds which have been forced to loofe them from their
claws, owing to the vivacity of the little animal's ftrugglcs to obtain
its liberty.
NotwithRanding the rigour of this climate, it is obferf^ble that
animals, wild as well as tame, are here remarkably prolific. The
ewes often bring twins twice a year, and the Rte-goats produce
conRantly two kids, and fbmetimes three at a birth.
Many birds are to be met with in Lapland, which have not yet
been difeovered elfewhere, hence the epithet Lapponicus generally
denotes fome rare fpecies peculiar only to that part of the world.
Of this defeription is thejcolopex Lapponicus, or the Lapland woodcock,
which has a beak turned up at the end. It is pretty common
in the bogs of Lapland, though it is not known to inhabit,
or to vifit other countries
:
yet it is certain, that thb bird is only
there during the fummer, and that it migrates to fome other climate
in the winter ; but where that is, remains a problem. The
biRorical part of ornithology is Rill very imperfed, nor can it be
expeSed to advance rapidly, as the information muR be colleAcd
by degrees, and abRraded from accidental obfervations. It would
*' be neceflary, fays BuRbn, to follow the birds every -where,
and
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 223
and to begin with afccrtaining the principal circumftances of
their paiTage : to become acquainted with the direction they
take, their retting places, and their abode in every climate ; and
to obferve them in all thofe dittant quarters. It will therefore
be the work of time, and require the attention of many fuccecding
ages, to be able to form as accurate notions refpe<fting the
birds, as we are in poffeflion of with regard to the quadrupeds.
** To accomplifti this undertaking, there ought to be conttant
obfervers in every country where the^ birds fojourn ; becaufc it is
impofliblc for a traveller, who merely pafles through, to bettow
fufficient time and care upon every thing that ought to be
taken into confideration.** It is probable that the Lapland
woodcock may, in his journey, keep a diredion through uncultiveted
countries, at leatt through fuch as are not inhabited by
people that might be led to obferve, or be able to communicate,
the hiftory of that bird. It feems highly probable, that in winter
they frequent the milder climate of 'Chinefc Tartary, or the
fouthern parts of Afiatic Ruflia ; and that in fummer they pafs
into Lapland by the way of Ruffian Tartary, or of Siberia and
Archangel.
The only birds that ftay in Lapland during the winter, are the
^rix and the U/rao. All the aquatic birds arc by the ice compelled
to change their habitation ; and of tlic others which arc feen
there, the greatett number only come for the purpofc of breeding.
And furcly in no country could thefe birds enjoy more tranquillity,
and carry on their amorous intcrcourfe with greater peace
1 and
224 GENERAL REMARKS
and comfort. The Infefts and wild berries funiilh them with a
plentiful fubfiftence : and as there is no night, which would oblige
their young ones to faft, or check their growth by its chilling cokb
they are able to diveft thcnifclves of their family cares in a much
(horter fpace of time than they could do in other diftrids.
I have, in the cdurfe of this wwk, mentioned more than once
the fongs of the birds, with which the woods of Lapland re-echo.
I have often been aftoniflicd to hear in thefe places birds fing very
charmingly, which I had before confidcrcd as mute, and totally
deprived by nature of all vocal power. The motactUa Irochilus of
Linn<eus, which comes to Italy about autumn, is in Lombardy
called iui, becaufe its Iliort and abrupt cry bears a refemblancc to
this found : but the fame bird may juftly be termed the nightingale
of the north. It fettles on the mod: lofty branches of the
birch-trees, and makes the air refbund with accents melodious,
bold, and full of harmony. This is likewife the cafe with the emberiza
genichsy which has a clear and ftrong voice ; and animates
with its mufical notes the fhades of the alder and willow-trees,
that grow by the fidcs of the brooks and rivers.
But there is another bird, which more highly deferves our admiration,
as it furpaffes all the reft by the beauty of its plumage
and the fwcetnefs of its voice : this is the motacillafuecka. It lives
in the bulhes of marfliy places, and particularly likes to perch on
the dwarf-birch, (hcttila nanay Linn.); its flight is generally low : it
makes its neft in the mofs, and lays between five and feven eggs,
of a greenifti colour, nearly rcfembling that of the mofs, with
which
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 225
which they are furrounded. It feeds on infcds and worms, and I
have fccn feveral of them with caterpillars in their beaks, which
were deftined for their young. The Laplanders call this bird
faddan kieHmen, which lignifies hundred tongues, and cxprclTcs
the nature of its fong ; for this conftantly varies, and is an imitation
of the voices of almoft all the other birds. To the beauty
of its notes it joins that of its feathers, which arc of a fky blue
colour, bordered about the throat with a black line, and after that
with one of a rufty appearance. It feems as if nature, charmed
with the melodious excellence of the long, had been willing to
embellifli even the outfide of the organ that produced it, in order
to render her work quite perfeft. No bird I know of would be a
more noble objeft for the captivity of a golden cage, to adorn the
magnificent apartment of fomc of our ladies, who, tired with the
mufic of art, might, even in the midft of a great town, be delighted
in lending their car to the fimplc harmony of nature.
Luxury, how^ever, has not yet made war upon this charming fongfter,
nor fpread its nets to enfnare him, becau/e he has hitherto
remained unknown ; and fortunate will it be for that beautiful
creature, if it always keep aloof from the habitations of men, and
Iheltcr himfclf from their fcarch by inaccelTible retirement. This
bird is beyond comparifon fuperior to the nightingale, and far
better calculated for a companion in a room. The voice of the
nightingale is too flirill and powerful, and on that account more
agreeable at a diftance than near: the nightingale, befides, is very
ordinary in its appearance ; whereas the motacilla fuccica fliincs
VoL. II. G g with
326 '
. general REMARKS
with a brilliant plumage, at the fame time that it enchants thti^
ear by the variety of its notes, whifch it' di(plays with fingtildr art,
changing and modifying them in a manner quitej>cculiar to itfclf.
The fca and land birds, which are Common in Norway, are all
.
to be found in Finmarlc, and in great varictyi, - 6f thefe, fonfie are
ftationary and remain all the year, whilft others/ fuppofed to be
migratory, arc feen only at particular fealghs. Of the firft fort are
thofc of the eagle and failcon-ldnd, owls, ravens, daws^partridges,:
the eider duck, fca-crow, and fevcral fpccles p^terf<J*l. Among
thofc which appear in fummer, and are not feen after autumn,
are the wild goolc, a fowl called, iu, the Norway tongue
koppeti, from a prominent piece of llefh on its head, water-hens,
fnipes, woodcocks, and a great number of fmall birds.
Some of the falcons are intirely white ; thefe, however*, are but -
rarely feen ; the feathers of their wings and backs are commonly
of a grayifli colour, white under the brcafl, with yellow beaks and
legs. This tribe is very numerous ; they breed amongft inacceffiblc
rocks, and if taken young arc readily trained for the divcrflon
of hawking : accordingly, the hawks bred here are in great rcqucfl,
and much fought after from Germany and other parts.
White owls have been found in the woods of Finmark : this
bird is larger than the common fpccies of owls, which have white
wings fpotted, with black winking eyes, a fmall head, broad beak,
the feet covered with down. Thefe owls have their nefts in precipices
of the mountains.
As I am fpcaking of the genus owl (Jirtx), I think I fhall gratify

CONCERNING LAPLAND. 227

tlfy the curious in the ftudy of ornithology, by giving them a
figure of the fcarccll: ftrix that is any where to be met with. It
is peculiar to Lapland, and has been called by Mr. Thunberg
' Strix Lapponied, Its fpecific charafter is as follows :

Strix Lnpjmica : inauriculata, corporc albido nigro, fafeiato,

maculatoquc.*
It is larger than the o//V, and fmallcr than the itySica of Linnaeus,
The annexed copper-plate will fupply the place of a dcfcriptioii:
but it deferves to be noticed, that only two fpccimens
of this bird ftuffed, exill at prefent in Europe, and thefe arc both
in Sweden. The one In the mulciim at Uplala, is that from which
my drawing was taken ; Mr. Thunberg having politely allowed
me to convey it to my lodgings, that I might copy a likenefs at
my Icifurc. Very little is known of the hlftory of this bird. I
have met wdth it myfelf in Lapland, and even purfued one, but
without fuccefs, as they are extremely fliy, and will not let men
come near them.
Crowds breed in prodigious numbers in Finmark, and in other
parts of Norway, and take their flight in flocks along the fea
fliorc. Thefe birds, through cold and hunger, become very tame in
wintci ; at that fcafon they hover about the tents of the Laplanders,
and even venture to come within them, and will pick up
every thing within their reach. Befidcs thefe, the ravens are very
numerous, and found to be bold and deftrudlive, feizing fifli hung
up to dry, and birds taken in fnares, and even attacking fliccp, and
plucking out their eyes, or tearing open their bellies,
Gg2 The
223 GENERAL REMARKS
The pie or magpie is to be met with in certain diftrifts, but
not in any great quantity ; to this bird the inhabitants of Norway
have given the name of tun-fugly on account of its attachment to
the habitations of mankind. If the pie makes his appearance in
parts where he is not commonly fecn, it is thought to be a fign of
the approaching death of forae principal perfon reading on the
fpot.
Among the pies, there is one of which the miffionary Lcems
makes no mention, though it claims attention, fince Mr. Thunberg
feems to be decidedly of opinion, that it is not a variety of the
common pic, but a diftindt fpccics, only tu be. found in Lapland.
As it has, as far as I know, never been figured before, I deem it
incumbent upon me to prefent it to the reader. Mr. Thunberg
has named it Corvtu Lapponkus^ and deferibed it in the following
manner :

** Char. Spec. Corvus Lapponkiis

:
fordidc albus, capitc, collo,
pedore, allfcjue bafi cinereo-fufeis.
It is found, fiiys Mr, Thunberg, in jheTornea Lapmark.
The general charadlcriftics of this bird are the fame with
thofe of the common pic ; it is, however, very wild, and feldom
fiiffers any one to approach it within fliot. It builds its
** neft upon trees, in mountainous or high fituations: it is not every
** year to be feen near houfes ; but when it comes, it generally
** makes its appearance towards the end of autumn, or in the be-
** ginning of winter, accompanied with about four young ones.
In winter it fliews itfclf chiefly when the weather is about to
** fet

CONCERNING LAPLAND. 229

fct in very fevere, and it ferves to the pcafant as a fign, that the
cold will be intcnfc, and the fnow abundant. This happened
in the year 1796, according to Dr. Eklunds* obfcrvation, who
had the goodncfs to procure me a fpccimcn of this bird, which
was hitherto quite unknown. At firft fight it fecms to refemble
the common pic, but it is Icfs by onc-fourth part, and differs
from it in its manners and habits. The tail tapers to a
point, the feathers being of unequal length : the feathers of the
belly, the upper part and points of the wings, are white ; the
neck, bread, the fore part of the wings, the thighs, and the tail,
** of an afh-colour, with this difference, however, that the tail is
more light above : the beak and the legs are black.
There is a peculiar kind of fowl commonly found in the woods
throughout Finmark and all Norway, which feems to be a variety
of the buftard or dotterel. To the male the Norwegians give
the name of iodJtr, which they pronounce as if written dotter
;
the female they call roey. The male is about the fizc of a fullgrown
turkey of the largeft breed, and like that fowd he occafionally
fpreads his tail and (hakes his wdngs : his belly has black
and white feathers, his back and wings arc of an alh-colour.
The hen is not fo large as the cock ; her wings and body have
feathers of a dufky yellow, with fpots. The flcfli of this fowl is
equally efteemed with that of the common buftard.
Partridges are very numerous ; they arc of two forts, the one
* Kklund is a diflinguiflied ornithologift, and particularly converfant with
the ::vs ^ birds.
frequenting
230 GENERAL REMARKS
frequenting the mountains, the other keeping to the plain. In
fummer they arc of tlie colour they are feen clfcwhcre, but in
winter they have white feathers; and when they lie half covered
with fnow, they arc fearedy difccrnihlc from it. Partridges arc
taken by the Laplanders in great numbers after the following
manner : a low hedge is made with twigs of the birch-tree, openings
being left at fmall dillances juft large enough for the birds to
creep through. In thefe openings fprings arc placed of cowls hair,
with a running noofe ; and the partridges, coming to feed on tlic
buds of the birchen boughs, and endeavouring to pals thefe holes,
are taken in the lhare.
Pigeons and doves (called by the natives of Norway due)
arc found in many parts of Finmark, and on the borders of Iluffia,
but they arc by no means a common bird. There is a kind of
plover (charadrtus) which, in the Danifli language, is called hrok^
fugif much admired for the gloffy black of its feathers, and the
delicacy of its flclh. This bird is very common in Denmark, and
frequently found in Finmark ; it appears early in the fpring, and
is not feen after the fummer is paft, during wlfich time It makes
its neft, and breeds Its young, which have at firft brown fpotted
feathers that arc afterwards replaced by black. Of this bird there
are found fome varieties, which have diftcrent names.
l^ofulcs thefe, there arc fcvcral forts of thrullies, the flefli of
which is thought to be delicate. There arc llkcwilc woodcocks,
Ihipcs, fnow birds, linnets, goldfinches, fifklns, and a variety of
other fmall birds. The cuckoo is found here, but the ftarling,
the
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 23 ^
the houfc fparrow, and fome other birds common to other countries,
are not to be met with.
The fw'an is found amongft: the fca- fowls, and taken by the
Laplanders in fnares contrived for the purpolc.
The wild, or, as it is called in Norway, the gray goofe, is a yearly
vifiter in the fummer feafon, and takes up its refidence in the
fmallcr uninhabited iflands on the fea-coaft, where it breeds : In
autumn it leaves Finmark, and returns fouthward, accompanied
by its young. In thefe flights the wild geefe are formed into fo
regular a body, as to appear to be conduced by a leader, a Angle
goofe fcemingly bringing up the rear, l^hey arc obfer\ ed to have
particular ftages or relling places In their migration, where they
remain for nights, and fjmetimes whole days, placing a goofe as
centry, to be on the watch, and give an alarm upon the approach
of an enemy. Notv/ithftanding the extraordinary warlncfs of this
fowl, the Laplanders llioot great numbers with their ])Icccs, and
take many more by various devices : they are often furprifed in
their retreats, when, owing to their having flicd their wing feathers,
they are unable to fly, and become an ealy prey to their
purfuers, who hunt them yearly during the time they remain in
this Hate. There is a variety of this fowl called the Finmark
goofe, which differs both in fize and colour from the wild fort.
Of ducks there is in Finmark a very great divcrfity ; amongft
thefe the moft remarkable is the eider duck, called in the language
of Norway, the edderfugL Thefe arc found in large numbers,
and fometimes feen in flocks of a thoufand. Their down feathers
9 arc
232 GENERAL REMARKS
arc valuable, being of a peculiar foftnefs, and much efteemed on
account of their lightnefs and warmth. This bird is eafily taken,
and will not readily quit its neft on the approach of a man.
The fca-coafts abound with pelicans, cormorants, and other
birds, which breed moft plentifully in holes of rocks fcarccly ac*
ccfliblc : the Laplanders, however, contrive to take the eggs of
thefe fowls in confiderablc quantities, and oftentimes the birds
thcmfelvcs by means of baited hooks faftened to ropes.
I fliall conclude this feftion by giving a lift of the quadrupeds
and birds peculiarly belonging to Lapland and Finland, according
to the fyftcm of Liniitcus.
Quadrupeds.
Canh Lagopus ; the white fox, likewife the black, and the one
marked with a crofs upon the back : thefe are generally
confidcred as varieties, though fomc naturalifts feem inclined
to diftinguifla them as fpecics.
llvcrra Luircoluy or Mitjkla LntreoJa, (by the Finlanders called T/-
cliun
)
rcfcmblcs the marten.
Miifkla Gnlo, or Vrjus Gnloj the glutton,
Mif/khi KivaliSy the white wccfcl.
Urfiis ArtfoSy the bear.
Gajior Fiber, the beaver.
Mns Lonnus, the Lapland marmot ; in fomc years very abundant.
Sciunis, the fquirrel.
Cervns TaranJus, the rein-deer.
BiRD&j
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 233
Birds.
Fako Genttlis : on the mountains of Daiccarlla.
S/rix Scaudiaca ; little known.
Sirlx Vlula,
.
Strix Lapponkd. New.
Otis Tetrtw.
Otis Ar6iica.
Corpus hifuujlus. Very plentiful in Weft Bothnia.
Cot'vus Lapponici/s Thunb.See the Tranlaftions of the Academy
of Stockholm.
Fiats Tridikiyl/iSt the three* toed woodpecker, remarkable for
having only three claws, when all the other fpecics of
picus have tour. It is rather fcarce in Lapland, but more
common in Norw'ay.
Anas Fiijaty
Atlas Nigra,
Anas Marila,
Anas Spetiahilis,
Anas Albifrons,
Anas F.r\thropiiSy
Anas Htemalis,
Anas Crecca, Thefc birds alfo come to Stockholm in fpring from
Finland and other par^s ; but they pafs the fummer
in Lapland.
A/ca Ardiica, and AIca Alee, arc more frequent on the Frozen
Ocean than on the fwcet waters of Lapland. I have
killed fame of them near the North Cape.
VoL. II. H h Procellaria,
234 GENERAL REMARKS
rrocclLirh i Ghxaul'is,
PJcojfih's Carbo, and Pcltyunns Bajfanus, arc found in the gulf of
liothnia.
The Colymbi, L,in^ and Sterna, are not cxaftly indigenous in
Lapland.
Lams Glancns; lives in the E'rozen Ocean.
Phrtalca LeucoroPui ; feldom found in Lapland.
Ardea Nigra, and Arden Alba, arc faid to be found in Lapland,
but are not indigenous.
ScoJopax Phaopus.
Scohpax Glottis, the great dark-coloured woodcock, with a very
long beak, the lower half of which is red. It is alfo fccii
in other places, but rarely.
Scohpax Fufea.
Scohpax Lapponica,
Tringa Lobata,
Trhiga Alptna, This fpccies was allb feen in Scania in the year
1789.
Tringa Pugnax, the niff and reeve.
CharadritiS Morhiellus, Cliaradrins Apricarius, and Charadrius PluviaUs.
Thefe, as other birds of paffage, which feed upon
flics and infefts, vifit different parts of the world in fpring
and autumn, according to the different climates and the
food they require.
Tetrao Lagopus. In winter it is quite white ; in fummer it rcfemblcs
the female of the groufe, except in the tail feathers,
which are always black.
Tetrao
CONCERNING Li\PLAND. % 235
Tetrao Bonajia.
Tiirdus Rofcus ; lives during the fummer in Lapland, where they
flioot it. It is laid alfo to be found in Egypt, perhaps at
a diftcrent fcafon.
Emberha Nivalis. It wanders fometimes as far as Germany, when
the winter is very fevere.
Frinp^illa Luleajis ; difTicult to meet with and to afccrtaln by the
defer! ption of Linnaeus.
Frhfgilla Lapponira,
Fringilla Montana
:
frequently found in tlic more fouthern parts
of Lapland, and even in Upland.
Motacilla Snecica; by the Laplanders called SadJan Kiellinen,
which means (the bird) of hundred tongues.'*
Hh2 SECTION
236 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION XIV.
Of the Aviph'thioiis Animals, the Ffhcs and Fijheries,
TF wc would ftrldly follow the arrangement of Linnaeus, wc
^ fliould now fpcak of the amphibious animals in Lapland, before
wc come to treat of the fiflies and the filherics. However the
ampliibious tribe is by no means numerous, as it only confifts of
the lacerta pahjlris, and, we may perhaps add, the petromyzonjinviatUis.
The lacerta paluftris is found in fevcral other places bcfidcs
Lapland. There arc fo many fabulous accounts of this animal
among the inhabitants of the North, that one may cafily be
milled by the different ftories that arc related of it: they, for inftance,
tell you, that it lives in the water; that it frequently
bounds up from the water, or the furface of a lake, and fettles on
the branch of a tree ; that there it begins to laugh, or to make a
noife like that of a mans laughing ; and fo on. But thefc wonderful
tales would probably vanilli before the enquiring eye of an
attentive obferver. The petromyzon fluviatilis follows in fpring,
when it begins to thaw, the courfe of the rivers, and becomes the
prey of the colymhi, and other water-fowls.
The rivers in Finmark contain great plenty of falmon in the
feafbn ; and on the coaft are found cod, hake, ling, haddocks,
whitings,
CONCERNING LAPLAND. ^37
whitings, ikatc, hollibut, and a variety of other fifli in abundance.
Thefe are caught and prepared for foreign markets, a traffic
which might be carried on to a more confidcrable extent than
what it aftually is, fo as to fupply almoft the whole of Europe.
It is not our intention to enter into a detail of that fubjeft, but
merely to give a concife account of the fiffi in thef; fcas, and the
methods adopted by the Laplanders for taking them, together
with fome particular circumftances refpefting thefe matters, which
have not been noticed by other travellers.
About Candlemas-day the whales appear in aftonifliing numbers
upon this coaft, not only in the open feas, but alfo in the bays
and harbours, being allured by the purfuit of the cod, herrings,
and other fiflics. Thefe latter endeavour to efcape by approaching
clofe to the ffiorcs, where they are taken by the fifficrmcn in
the greateft quantities. There are fcvcral fpecics of the whale ; but
this animal has been fo fully and fo often deferibed, that it will
be unnccclTary to fay any thing of it, further than to obferve, that
they arc frequently caft on ffiorc upon thefe coafts, when, as is
fuppofed, they have left the deep water on being wounded by the
harpoons of fifliers, or by their great enemy the fword-fifli, hereafter
to be mentioned, and by unwarily coming too nigh, they
are ftranded and taken by the Laplanders.
Many kinds of fifli belonging to the cetaceous tribe, arc found
in thefe fcas. Among them the moft remarkable is the fw^ordfifli,
an inveterate and declared enemy of the whale. This fifli,
called fonictimes thefsa-lwimd^ docs not differ much in fliajK* and
ii/c
238^ GENERAI. REMARKS
fizc from the grampus^ or fmall whale. The weapon, which is
likened to a fword, conftitutes his back fin ; and with this, and
his lharp teeth of about a fingers length in both jaws, he attacks
the whale whenever he meets him, and purfucs him until he
drives him on fiiorc or kills him. That fifli docs not only engage
the whale fingly, but alfo in company with other fpecies ; fo that
the great tyrant of the deep, to whofc infatiablc appetite fuch
numbers of fifti become every moment a facrifice, is not without
his enemies, by whom at length thofc viftims of his voracious
dc/potifm arc fare to be avenged.
Another cetaceous fifli is here known by the name of Jpnrigcr,
which, in the language of Norway, fignifies a jumper. This name
is given to it becaufe it is obierved to leap frequently out of the
j'ca w^ith great force, after which it falls back with a loud noife.
This fifti is near three yards in length, and in winter generally
keeps the main fea ; but in the fummer it often feeks the ftiallow
waters of the bays, when, being difeovered by its frequent leaps,
the fifliermen furround it with nets, to avoid which the filh throws
itfclf on the beach, and is feized upon without difficulty.
Porpoifes, to which the Norwegians give the appellation of
are fecn in great numbers. The Laplanders fometimes find
them in calm weather ftceping on the furfacc, and thus flioot
them, which they rarely fuccecd in when they are rolling in the
water. The Laplanders, as well as the inhabitants of Finmark
and Norway, are exceedingly fond of the flefh of the porpoife.
The fliark is found in all feas, but abounds in that of w hich wx
ft arc
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 239
are fpeaking : it is called, in the Norwegian tongue, Jjaaclhernn^^,
and by the Laplanders, akkalagges. There arc fcvcral fpeclcs of
fliark, all of which yield a great quantity of oil or blubber. The
Laplanders cat Irccly of the flefli, which they cut into fteaks and
broil. So voracious is this fifli, that lharks have been taken with
other lharks of a fmaller fizc in their ftomachs, and even with the
hooks, lines and wxights which were laid for other filh, having
fw'allowxd not only the filli that were thus caught, but the whole
tackle together with them.
The hollibut, Ikatc, turbot, and flounder, are taken In the
Northern Ocean in vaft quantities. The Norwegians call them
by the general name of qvejtay but the Laplanders have diftinft
terms for each. The Ikatc and flounder fcoured and dried, the
heads, fins and tails being cut off, arc fent into Denmark and
other countries of the North, where they are eaten In that ftatc,
and confidered as an agreeable relilh.
The cod-fifli confifts of fevcral fpccics ; thefe are found in the
feas of Finmark in great plenty, and in the higheft perfeftion
:
accordingly they form a confidcrable article of commerce. There
is a fpecics of cod which remains the wdiolc year on that coall,
and which, at certain fcafons, is poor and lean. Another Ibrt
Ihews Itfclf about Chriftmas, and is at that time very full of roc
;
and a third kind is much efteemed, which is called torjkcy and
known to the Engllfli by the lame name, though it is fometimes
written as that is pronounced, viz. Uijk. There is moreover a
Ipecics which, from its Norwegian name modde^ is called mud-fjh
by
24q[ GENERAL REMARKS
by the Englifli fiflimongcrs, to whom it never comes but In a
pickled Hate. The Laplanders take the cod and torike by line
and hook only, but In fomc diftrifts of Norway they arc caught
with nets. They arc found on different parts of the coaft at different
feafons, but arc never known wholly to forfakc it ; a<.cordingly
the time ot filhing for them varies with the place. The
cod and torske, which are taken In the winter, are carelully piled
up as they arc caught, in buildings conftruded for the purpofe,
having their fidcs open and expofed to the air. Here the) remain
frozen until the following fprlng, when the weather becoming
milder, they arc removed to another building of a like
conftrudion, in which they arc prepared for drying. The heads
arc cut off, the entrails taken out, and the remainder hung up in
the air. Fifli caught in the fpring arc immediately conveyed to
the fccond houfe, and dried in the above manner. The fifli thus
cured, from their round and ftlff lliape, receive the names of
rund-fjky orJiock fjky and arc known to us by the laft name, viz.
,flock-fJ}i. The cod, torlkc, ling, &c. caught in the fummer feafon,
on account of the warmth of the wxuthcr, are only to be prclervcd
by the common methods of curing with fait. The merchants
who purchafe ftock-fifli attend to the brightnefsof the colour, and
obferve that the flcfli be not foft and fpongy, both which deleds
arc occafioned by the unfavourable ftatc of the atmoipheie at the
time of cxficcation.
Herrings are found In thefc feas in immenfe profufion, but the
LapLanders have neither nets nor fkill to take them ; accordingly
they
CONCERNING LAPLAND. I
241
they arc only ufed by them as bait for fuch fifli as they do catch.
Indeed, confidering the incredible numbers of fifli in this neighbourhood,
it appears wonderful that the fifliery is not carried on
with more fpirit and ability ; but there feems the like inattention
here to this, fpccics of human induftry, as is obfervable in the
fiflicries on the northern coafts of Great Britain, It may perhaps
be the policy of Denmark rather to promote the falmon and
cod fiflicries than that of herrings, and probably the impoflibility
is fecn of rivalling the Dutch at foreign markets, who have obtained
a preference by their excellent method of curing this fifli.
Befidcs the fifli juft mentioned, thefe fcas furnifli fturgeon, lampreys,
flounders (called in Norway Jlynders)^ foies, turbot, and
moft of the fifli to be met with on other coafts, befidcs lobfters,
crabs, jirawns, and other fliell-fifli. The lakes arc ftored with
pike, perch, trouts, eels, and other frefli water fifties.
Before we clofe our catalogue of Lapland fifties, wcftiould think
ourfelves unpardonable not to notice what has been laid of a feamonftcr
called the krake, or, as the word has been ufed in the
plural number, the kraken. This prodigy is fuppofed to be a fifli
that rarely appears on the furfacc, but has occafionally been feen
by filhermen who were looking for a proper place to throw their
nets. They were fometimes furprifed on fuch occafions at finding,
after the firft time they threw the lead from their boat. In
order to afeertain the mcafure of the water, that the apparent
depth continued to diminifti every time they repeated the experiment
; and imagining that this dccrcafc could be only occafioncd
VoL. IL .
I i by
242 GENERAL REMARKS I
'v,
by the lead having lighted upon the back of fomc Immcnfcly
large fifli, which muft be in the ad of riling to the furface, they
fet thcmfelves about rowing from the fpot with all pofliblc haftc ;
and when it happened that they could perceive the filh upon its
emerging to the furface, it appeared covered with weeds, coral,
and marine plants. There is a tradition in thofc northern countries,
of a Romifli Bilhop landing upon the back of one of thefe
monfters, and celebrating mafs upon it during the time he remained
there. Such are feme of the particulars which have
been related refpeding this extraordinary produdion of nature
;
Itories that appear to have been fwcllcd out and augmented in the
courfc of narration from one credulous hearer to another, and in
all likelihood had their origin in fome dead whale of extraordinary
bulk being feen floating on the furface, on whofe back had grown
thofe marine plants, and other fubftanccs which ufually fallen to
inert bodies in the feas. This incident afterwards was incrcafcd
to that of a floating illand, or fome fea monftcr as large as an
ifland, to which at laft they gave the name of the krake. In fliort,
the tale of the iraken is fupported on much tlic fame ground as
the ftories of gholls and hobgoblins ; for they too are believed by
many, though no evidence can be produced ot any credible perfijn
that has feen them.
The wives of the maritime Laplanders fliare with their hufbands
iri the employment of liflfing, which is not the cafe with
women in general in other parts of Norway. The mountain
Laplanders, when removed in the fummer fcalbn to the fea coall,
engage
CONCERNING LAPLAND.
^
243
engage in that occupation during the time they Iby. In winter,
when the lakes and rivers arc clofely bound up with ice, they
contrive, ncverthclcfs, to purfue the avocation of filhing; and
even take confidcrablc quantities, by cutting holes in the ice, and
putting their nets through them into the water under the ice.
The Laj)landcis ufc, for their nets, the bark of the birch-trcc
inftcad of cork ; and as they grow no hemp, they form their ropes
and lines of tl\c finews of the rein-deer.
The river Tana takes its rife in the diftant mountains of Lapland,
runs through Eall Finmark, and after receiving in its courfe
fcvcral frnall ftreams and torrents from the mountains, at length
empties itfclf with a very rapid current into the fea at a bay to
which it gives its name ; this river is remarkable for producing
jiilmon of an extraordinary fize and rich flavour. The falmon
filhcry begins here early in the fpring, and is over at the end of
the fccond week after Midfummer-day.* Large quantities of
lalmon arc alfo taken in the riven Alien in Weft Finmark : this
river likewife gives name to the bay in which it meets the fca.
* It may not be amifs to fpccify the genus falms^ as it is found in that country,
according to a communication from my valuable friend Dr. Quen/cl. It is as
follows
:
Salmo Salary the common falmon, which goes up the rivers in fummer for the
puipofc of dcpofiting its fpawn.
Salmo Alpinus is alfo found in the lake of Wennern in Sweden.
Salmo Lavarctusy calledJik by the Swedes, is caught at the cataracts when it is attempting
to mount up.
Salmo Thymallus : harr in Swedifli. It is alfo to be met with in the rivers of
Westrobothnia and A ngermaiiia.
li 2 The
244 , GENERAL REMARKS
The fifliery in this river begins about Midfummer, at which time
the falmon are in full perfeftion; after this they are obferved to
dccrcafc in fizc and goodnefs. The falmon is caught in wears,
and the fifliery itfelf put under certain regulations. The following
is the method of pickling thefe fifli : they arc firft fplit, carefully
wafhed, and faltcd with the beft fait that can be procured ; and
after lying fome little time in the fait, they are packed up in
oaken cafks and prefled down with weights. The calk is kept
open, and brine daily poured in until the filh is found pcrfcdlly
cured, when tlic calk is faftened up.
From the produce of the fifliery a tenth part is dedudled in kind,
which tenth is equally divided into three parts, one of which goes
to the king, another is for the ule of the pallor. or minillcr of the
church, and the remaining third is appropriated to keep the
church in repair.
To the fifties of Lapland fliould alfo be reckoned thofc which
inhabit the Northern or Frozen Ocean, but w^e cannot here enter
into a defeription of them ; much lefs would it fuit our purpofc
to enumerate thofe which are common in other countries.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND.
I
445
SECTION XV.
Of the Infeis and Tfiaceotts Animals of Lapland,
OINCE Dr. Qucnzels travels in Lapland, this country has fur- ^ niftied many interefting objcdls to
the cntomologifts and col-
Icftors of infeds throughout Europe. In the time of Linnaeus
there was not a fingle infeft of the clafs Icpidopiera known as indigenous
in Lapland ; and it is almoft incomprehcnfible how the
great phalana and papilios, that hunt the ncftarics of thofe flowers
which cmbcllifli thefe northern diftricfts, could have efcaped the
fearchlng eye of fo attentive a naturalift. Dr. Qucnzcl difeovered
fcvcral fpccics, and brought with him a great number of fpccimens,
which were foon fcattcrcd over Germany, and all countries
where thefe objcdls are efteemed and collcdcd. It is an unfortunate
circuniftance, however, that collcftions of that kind arc
often confidercd as mere articles of fliow ; and that the eiitomologifts
are frequently nothing more than walking inventories, that
have their heads filled with a gothic mixture ol Greek, Latin,
and barbarous names.
Entomology, when ftudled by a philofophical obferver, may
become a purfuit of great importance to focicty, and lead to difcovcrics
of eflential benefit ; but while the zeal ot cntomologifts
confifts
246 ( GENERAL REMARKS
confifts in a rage of making colleftions, in bringing together what
is beautiful or fingular, and ferves to amufe an empty curiofity^
little advantage is to be cxpedlcd from their labours. The true
objcclt in thefe rcfearches ought to be, to obferve the manner in
which the in/ccSs live, what qualities they poflefs, how they arc
transformed, and what influence they have upon the general
economy of nature. How much remains yet to be difeovered in
thefe little animals, in whofe very fmallnefs nature fliows hcrfelf
fo great ? Some of their fenfes, as that of hearing and fmelling,
moreover the funftions of the antenna?, the form of their eyes,
their love, their generation, their means of defence, and of providing
for their different wants; all thefe are things that are as
yet but very impi?rfedly known. It is among the Infcds that
we perceive the moft extraordinary deviations from the common
courfe of nature. Thus we find that the aphides bring forth eggs
and living young ones fcvcral times following, after only having
been once impregnated by the male. In the genus plialamc there
arc fomc of which the females are without wdngs, and never enjoy
the plcafurc of flying except w'hen they enjoy the embraces of
the male, that carries them into the air, as it wxrc, to indulge the
rapture of love in the arms of zephyrs. Who is ignorant of the
fagacity, induftry, and regularity of the bees ? Who w ould have
imagined that there arc infeds that re-produce their limbs, and
even their heads, when cut off? The aircnlio antiodontalgkus,
which has the power of allaying the tooth-ach ; the medoe maja/is,
ufcful in hydrophobia ; the lyita vejicaiona, which draws blifters
;
the
CONCERNING LAPLAND.
> 247
the bomlyx, or filk-worm, and others, are Infcds for the utility
of which we arc indebted to the obfervations of true entomologifts.
There is ftill a wide field open for difcoverics of the like nature.
If, for inftance, it were afeertained which caterpillars are moft
injurious to the vegetation of young trees, our endeavours to deftroy
them might be direded accordingly. Several arc pcrniciour,
to the grain ; thefc alfo might be pointed out and fuccefsfully
fubdued. On the other hand, the entomologift might fhow new
advantages to be derived from fome infedls that are as yet unknown.
The iermeSy blaita, derm^es, ihiea, may perhaps at fome
future period be looked upon wdth Icfs apprehenfion and diflike
than thofe infers which arc now efteemed pqrfedly innocent
;
and the hufbandman, by the exertions of the entomologift, be
freed from the fear of feeing the fields that he cultivates with the
Iweat of his brow, changed into barren and unfruitful ground.
The new fpecies of infeds which have been found in Lapland,
offer as yet no flriking difcoverics of pradical benefit. The
firft ftep always muft be to know a thing before we can iriycrtigate
its ufe, and in this we are greatly aflifted by a fcicntific
method and claffification. Travellers have hitherto only been
able to fearch for and gather materials; they have made collections,
and given lifts and deferiptions : of this kind will alfo be
found to be that which is prefented to the reader in this work.
To render it more intcrefting, the figures arc added of fuch infeds
as have not yet obtained a place in any collcdion of prints. I
fliall
248 < GENERAL REMARKS
fliall proceed to the catalogue of infeds ; after previoufly noticing
an obfervation, communicated to me by Dr. Quenzcl, viz. that
the phalana, which with us only appear towards the evening,
and fly in the night, follow quite the oppofitc pradice in Lapland
; they fly about In the day-time, and go to reft, and difappear
when the fun is near the horizon. This is a fad, for which
I cannot account, and which I muft leave for others who are more
competent to explain.
List of iNSEcxb.
Scarahaus Fcateus.
Scarabans Depre/piS, f. Fenniais.
Scarabaus Sabnleti
Scathes Ardlicus,
Trogofita Thoraclcuy
Trogojita Corticalls,
Carabus Borealis,
Carabas Nivalis,
Carabus Guttula,
Carabus Alpinus
:
it fleeps in the night on the grals.
Carabus Apricarins
:
on the mountains of Dalecarlia.
Elaplirus Striatus : on the banks of rivers.
Dytifeus Ar6licns,
Dytifciis Dolahratus,
Dyti/ens Ajffinis,
Dytifeus Alpinus,
Dytifeus
.CONCERNING LAPLAND. 1^49
Dytifcus Lhieatus.
Gyrlnus Bicolor : in Finland.
Elophorus Fotnicm.
Xylita Ferrughiea,
Hypnhis Qtiadriguttatus.
Anihicus Ociilatus
in Finland.
Anthicm Ferrnghieits,
Cantharis Alphia,
Cantharh Pihfa,
Malachhis Flavipes ; in Finland.
Dermejies Scbafferi.
Dermejies Glaberrimm, on the mountains of Dalccarlia.
Demuxes Ater ; in Finland. ,
Sllpha Tomentofa.
Silpha Rugofa : this infcdl is to be met with in any part of Sweden
; and in Lapland it abounds,
Cocchiella AnaUs, in Finland.
Cocchiella Trifafciata.
Cocchiella Botlinica,
Cocchiella Hyperborea.
Cocchiella ArSlica,
Cocchiella Bifajciata.
CaJJida Sanguinolenta^ in Dalccarlia.
Cliryfomela Lapponica.
Chryfomela Difpar
:
Var. y,
Crioccris Betula, in Weft Bothnia.
Vol.il Kk Cjjlcia
GENERAL REMARKS .
Cifiela AxUlarhy in Finland ; the name is not fuitable,
CryptocephaJus AJfinhy in Finland.
Cryptocephalus Coniiger
:
Var. y,
Cryptoccphalus VirirgutuSy
Cryptoccplidliis Scxpnn6iatiis : Var p.
Cryptocepliahis CoryIt
:
Var. y,
Cryptocephalus Pint
:
Var. p.
Dryops /Enea, in Finland.
Da/ytes Linearis.
Lymcxylon Paradoxunty in Finland.
Serropalpus Strintus : Dircca barbata, Fabric.
liipiphorus Fennkus.
Buprejks Congener.
Bnprejies Acuminata.
Biiprejics Morio.
Note. The above mentioned infeds arc contained in Paykulls
Fauna Succica, where the defeription may be compared.
The following are to be found in the work of Fabricius
:
Fdater Trl/lis.
FJater Melancholiens.
E/ater MetalUcus : a new fpecies.
Elafer Rlparins.
Leptura liiifcolUs e Finlandia
y
vcl L. Tlioracica.
Leptura Strigihta.
Leptura
* CONCERNING LAPLAND. -5'
Leptura Intenogathnh : alfo Var. duodccim maculata.
Lcptura Smaragduh.
Leptura Marghiata.
Leptura Lamed : alfo found in the other provinces of Sweden.
Leptura SemacuhUa.
lihinomacer Attelaboides.
CurcuUo Ar^ticus,
Curcnlio Pmeti.
Curcuho A^tliiops.
Stiiphylinus Alphins,
Papllio Embla,
Papilio Gt^oU)
PapUklhr,.,. I
See the Stockholm TrMisol the
'
ycetl-tll.
Papilio Frigga,
Papilio Freya,
Papilio Pales
:
this is alfo found in Germany.
Bomhyx Lunigera, 7 Copenhagen Tranfaftions.
Bombyx Quenzeli, ^
Bomhyx Morio : <iuitc black, with pellucid wings.
Bomhvx Lapponiea; Tlmnhcrg.
mlla Dh,rg,s. which, oeeotdlng to d'Antle. Ifcw.fe found
upon the Pyrenees ; but this may be a diftercnt fpccics.
Nciiua Heliophila,
yioSina Fimejia,
Nobim CinSta,
Noiiua Cordigera.
year 171)1-
252 fi GENERAL REMARKS
Phryganea Pliahinoides.
Tenthredo Luconm.
T'enthredo, Fafdata,
Tenthredo Vitcllina,
Sirex Gigas, Sirex Camelus
:
both f})ecic.s arc alfo found more t
the fouthward.
Apis Alphta,
Apis Ariica,
Apts Lappouica,
Apis Eqitejiris^ &c.
Qyinis Tarandi,
(E^rus Nafalis.
Tabanus Tarandims.
Cukx Ptptens. 1 , The air fwarms with them, when the
Culex PuUcaris. f , .
weather is fine.
Cn/ex Reptans.
Empis Borealis.
Onifeus Pfora. 1 ^ ^ n
> On the coaft on Onifeus Entomofi, J
Note. There are fbme fpccies of Geometra and Tinea in Lapland
; but 1 do not know their names.
Norway.
I ftiall now add the cflential charafters of the infefts exhibited
upon the annexed plates, as they are deferibed by that acute and
diligent naturalift, Dr. Qucnzel.
PLATE

y Jiher j Apis lapponuM

.
S' Apis Aipiw . 4 JSomfyjr Alpinsi
.
^ Alpicola .
6 J)f u/Aefifide .
7 Apis Arc^ca .
CONCERNING LiVPLAND. 253
PLATE I.
1 . Sirex Nlj^riconiis : nigcrabdominc lutco, bafi iiigro
; pcdibus
quatuor autcriorlbus flaYcfccntlbus.
2 . Jlpis Alpiua : nigraabdominc fulvo, bafi nigro.
3 . Apis Lapponica : flavacapitc, fafcia thoracis media, antennis,
pcdibufquc, nigris ; abdominc bafi fulvo, apicc albido.
4 . Bombyx Alplna : alls fuperioribus nigris, flavo maculatis; inferioribus
cocclncis, bafi fafciifquc macularlbus coricatenatis
atris.
5. Nogina Alpicola : alls fuperioribus clnercis,
^
fafeiis ftrigifqfic
undulatis obfeurioribus ; inferioribus fufeis, lunuld margineque
albls.
0. Noctua Alpicola : undcrfidc.
7. Apis ArSlica : nigrathoracc antice pofticcquc fulvo, abdomine
fupra fafeiis flavis fulvifquc.
PLATE II.
1. Papilio Emilia : alls fuperioribus fufeis, lunula media fulva ^
inferioribus dentatis, fupra lutefccntibus, nigro-maculatis,
infra virefcentibus, maculis circiter fedecim
rotundis argenteis.
2. Papilio Emilia : undcrfidc.
3. Leptura Spadicea : fufea, obfeura, clytris piccis.
4. Leptura
i GENERAL REMARKS
4. Lepturii Tir>yaaca : nigra, thoracc fangulnco.
.s. Brnnhxx LnppoiiJCii : alis omnibus ferriiglncls, maculis tranfvcrfis
flavis fiifco inclufis.
D/ffo.
PLATE 111.
r . Ptipilio Sophia : alis omnibus intcgris, fufco Icrrugincis, anticls
fupra occHis trilnis, antcriori gcmino lutcis pupilla
nigra ; infcrioribus fubtus punfto medio albo.
'J. Papilio Sophia : underfide.
Tinea Leucomella : atra ; capite, thoracis medio, fufciis tribus,
ball ciliifquc alarum, annulifquc pedum, albis.
1 . Dytijciis Alpihns ' flavcfccns ; thoracc maculis, elytrilquc ftriis
abbrcviatis, maculifquc marginallbus nigris,
5. Silpha Tomcntoja : nigra, obfcura ; elytris rugofis ; capite, thoracequc
albido, dense tomentofis.
(3. Coccinella Lapponua : fla\a ; thoracis medio, elytrorumquc futura
dentata, lincaque flexuosa, cum futura bis cocunte,
nigris.
ISote. I'his fpecics is not deferibcd in Paykulls Fauna
;
for it is neither the Coccinella Ar5iica of that author,
nor his Hyperhoreay which is reprefented upon the annexed
plate, fig. 7 9 nor any other. It is therefore
wanting in that work,
7 . Coccinella Hyperborea : coleoptris lutels ; fafeiis duabus abbreviatis,
nigris flavo cindis; thoracc flavo, nigro maculato.
p\u.
^
77
' ^ J<y 79
7 FapUio Sophia, |/ {bcnnjfiia l^perhorea. 13 ff^pubu tfuatbifftiUatv.
2 Hf undenride. d Factor finearir. \^4 Gmtham Alpirut.
3 Tinea Imromelia. p lytaeaylon Faixtdoxum. 13 Df. Femi^
4 Dytitcur Alpinus. lo (itmdio Atrdcus. tS FAapium Fenniam.
5 Si^ha hoTneniosa. n leptura SmampdiiUi. 77 Oramhyx Ftwiirtw^
$ (ocdnella ltipponim,ia (UmhiLf Atpinus. ifi SatrUet ArrHctif.
ip Elafer Cojtulu.

^
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 255
8. Dajyt'es Lhiearls : linearis, virefeens. *
9. hymexylon Paradoxum : fufeum, capite thoraccquc flavefeentibus
vlx hujus generis.
10. Curcitlio ArSikus
:
longiroftris, fcmorlbus fubclentatis, cinereus,
fufeo ftrlatim pund;atiis ; pundis thoracis duobus,
elytrorumque duobus vel quatuor majpribus, pilofo
albidis.
1 l. heptura Smaragdula : viridis, pubefeens^\^ariat fufea et nigra,
pulvere viridi detrlto. Similis L/Cpturje virenti, at
triple fere minor.
11*. Carahus Alpinus : thorace rotundato antice pofticcque tran('-
verfo ; clytrls ferrugineis fufeo-marginatis, vel totis
nigris.
13. Hypnlus Quadriguttatus : niger, obfeurus, -clytris flavo quadrimaculatls.
: 1. Cantham Alptna: maf, fufea, lutefeens ; thorace flavefcente,
poftice unldentato ; macula media fufea.
15 . Ditto, Femtna,
1(5. Rhagium Fenniaim : thorace fubfpinofb ; lutcum ; capite,
elytrorum marglnibus, pcdibufque, fufeis.
17. Ceramhyx Feiuiktis : thorace fpinofo ; grifeus ; clytris a bafi ad
medium, fafclaque poftica, fufeis.
18 . Scantes Ardiktis : niger, fubnltcns ajneo ; pedibus ferrugineis
; thorace globofo.
IQ. Elater QoJiaVn : niger, nitidus ; elytris ftriatis, convexiufeulis,
marginc exteriore rufcfccntc.
^Some
2 <6 GENERAI. REMARKS
.c
S<#me of the infefts here deferibed, arc mentioned in the tranfinSions
of the fociety of natural hiftory at Copenhagen fSkrivter
of Naturhyiorle Selljkabet 1 KjOhenhirun) ; and ieveral have been
named by Dr. Quenzel, who firft found them.
Concerning the tejlaceous anhials, I have only to remark, that
their number is by no means confiderable in the North ; and that
thofe which are found there, arc like the other productions of
nature, neither brilliant in their colour, nor very various in their
form. The following arc perhaps alone worth noticing :

Mya Margaritifera, 1 . . . / t i i
s In the rivers of Lapland.
Afya PUiortim, 3
Bnccinhm Glacials : in the Icy Ocean.
Bucchiintn Undatum,
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 257
SECTION XVI.
Of Lapland Botany.
Flora Lapponica, by Linnaeus, is a repofitory of all tliofc
plants which are known in Lapland ; but what intcrefts a
traveller of curiofity is, to be told which plants moft peculiarly
appertain to that country, in order that he may be able to concentrate
his attention, and carry away with him objeds of value,
for himfclf and his botanical friends. To that end I will fubjoin
a lift of thofc plants, with references where they are deferibed or
figured.
The indigenous Plants of Lapland,
Pingnknla JHllofafcapo villofo,^ See Flora Lapponica.
Poa Glaiicapanicula patula fecunda, fpiculis fubtrifloris, flofeulis
acuminatis bafi pubefeentibus, foliis fubulatis. See
Flora Danica.
Campanula unifloracaulc unifloro. FI. Lapp.
Gentiana purpureacorollis fexfidis campaiiulatis verticillatis feffilibus,
calycibus truncatls dentatis. FK Dan.
* Ihe ipecific cliaracUrs arc niuflly taken from Smiths edition of the Moia
Lapponica.
VoL. II. L 1 Ju/icus
258
^
GENERAL REMARKS i
Jtincus Bighimhfolio fubulato, gluma biflora terminali.Amoenitatcs
AcadcmictfC Holm.
Juncus Styghisfoliis fctaceis deprcffiufculis, pedunculls gcminis
tcrminallbus, glumis folitarils fubbifloris. Smithii
Plantarum Icqncs.
I
Stellaria Btfloraramis crc<flis bifloris. A<Sa Holmcnfia.
SieUaria Hmufufafoliis ovatis fubfccundis feffillbus, caulibus,
procumbentibus tctragonis, pedunculls folitarils abbreviatis.
Aft. Holm.
Stellaria CeraftoiJesfoliis oblongis, pedunculls fubbifloris. Smith
Plant. Ic.
Andromeda Caruleafoliis linearibus obtufis fparfis. FI. Lapp.
Andromeda Hypnoidesfoliis aciformibus confertis. FI. Lapp.
Andromeda Tetragonafoliis triquetre imbricatis obtulis, ex alis
florens. FI. Lapp.
Saxifraga Cernuafoliis palmatis, caule fimplici unifloro. FI.
Lapp.
Saxifraga Cafpitofafoliis radicalibus aggregatis linearibus integris
trifidifque, caule crefto fubnudo fubbifloro. FI.
Lapp.
Saxifraga Rivtdarisfoliis radicalibus qulnquelobis, florali ovato.
FI. Lapp.
Saxifraga Hiradnsfoliis caulinls lanccolatis, altcrnis nudis inermlbus,
caule crefto. FI. Dan.
Lyehnis Apetalacaule fimpliciflimo unifloro, corolla inclufa

FI. Lapp.
Rubus
concerning LAPLAND. .-59
Jtuhns Arlicnscaulc unifloro, loliis ternatis.FI. Lapp. Dan.
Voienhlla Niveafoliis tcriiatis incilis fiibtiis tomcnt(jris, ca\iL acU
fccndcnte.FI. Lapp. Dan.
lianunculus Jjapponicmcaulc unifolio & unifloro, foliis tripartitis,
FI. Lapp.
Rannnculm PstvaViscaulc unifloro, foliis radicaliljus palinatis,
caulinis multipartltis fcffilibus.FI. Lapp.
Ranunculns Pygmaus,^
Pediailans Lapponicacaulc fimplici, foliis lanccolatis fcniipinnatis
fcrratis acutis.FI. Lapp.
Pedlcularis Sceptnim Carolmum^flore aurco magno, ridu fangulnco.
FI. Lapp. Dan.
Pcdicnlarh Hirfutacaulc fimplici, calycibus viUofis, foliis lincaribus
dcntatis crcnatis.FI. Lapp.
Draha Alpinafcapo nudo fimplici, foliis lanccolatis integcrrimis.
FI, Dan.
Draha Hiriafcapo unifolio, foliis fubhirfutis, filiculis obliquis
pcdicellatis.FI. Dan.
Draha Nha/isfoliis lanccolatis integcrrimis fubpubefeentibus cL
liatis, fcapo unifolio decumbente, petalis rctufis.f

Nova Ada Socict. XJpfol,

GnaphaUtitn Alpinnmcaulc fimpliciffimo, capitulo terminate, floribus
oblongis.FI. Lapp. Dan.
^ lliis fpccics is not to be found in the Flora Lapponica, nor in Wildenovvs
edition of the Syftcm. Veget.
t This defeription is taken from Wildcnow.
LI 2 Cypripedinm
26o general remarks <
t
Cypripcdium Bulbofnmfolio fubrotundo.FI. Lapp. Smith. PI.
Icon.
Carex Capitalafpica fimplicl androgyna ovata : fuperne mafcula,
capfulis imbricato-patulis.FI. Dan.
SiiUx PhyUdfoliafoliis ferratis glabris lanceolatls, crenis undulatis.
FI. Lapp. Dan.
Salix Tcnuifoliafoliis ferratis glabris verticalitcr ovatis.FI. Lapp.
Dan.
Siilix FoUohfafoliis integris glabris ovatis confertis pcllucldis.

FI. Dan.
Sdlix Arhufculdfoliis fubferratis glabris lanceolatis utrlmque acutis.
FI. Lapp. Dan.
Salix Lanatafpliis integris utrimque lanatis fubrotundis acutis.
FI. Lapp. Dan.
Splachnum Luteumumbraculo orbiculari piano.Hedwig. Mufei.
Amoen. Acad.
Splachnum Rubrumumbraculo orbiculari hemifphaerico.
Splachnum Mntoidesfubacaule, rcceptaculo oblongo,
Splachnum Angujiatumcaulefccns, foliis piliferis, pedunculo breviffimo.
Splachnum Spharkumrcceptaculo globofo.
Tdchen ArSlkusfoliis planis fubrotundis lobatis obtufis, calycc
piano ovali, lacinulae propria^ adnato, niveus. FI.
Lapp.
Lichen Nhalisniveus finibus daedalis laciniatus, ramis ereftis,
calycc orbiculato.FI. Lapp.
Lichen
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 261
Lichen Prohofeideusfollaceus, umbilicatus, pcltls turbinatis, trimcatis,
perforatls.
The berry of the Rubus ArSikns^ when fuflicicntly ripened, is
fuperlor in fragrance and flavour to the flrawberry and rafpberry,
and to all fruit of the fame kind, even what we have in Italy. A
fmall plateful would feent an apartment with a more exquifitc
fwcetnefs than any perfume 1 know of. It is fingular that fo delicious
a produdion fhould be found in the North. They preferve
it in Sweden, and it makes one of the moft delicate fweetmeats.
Linnaeus fpeaks of this fruit in high terms of praife, and
fays, that it often refrefhed him in his travels through Lapland,
when he was overwhelmed with fatigue.
The Rubus chamamorus is alfo ufed for preferves. It grows
plentifully in Lapland, efpecially in marfliy fituations. The berry
of this plant is yellowifli, and nearly of the fame fliape as the
rafpberry, but larger in fize, and more^ infipid in taftc. Wc however
thought it delicious when wc found it in our walks, through
the bogs of Lapland,
I am of opinion that the Diapenjia happonka^ and the Azalea
procumhens, fliould be reckoned among the indigenous plants, properly
fo called. I have found both in flower on the top of very
high mountains, where all other vegetation feemed to ccafe, and
nothing was to be fcen befides the Lichen rangiferhms.
The Arhuttis alpina, and TuffHagofrigida^ begin to put out their
buds in fpite of the fnow, and before it is quite melted ; and often
the
c 62 GENERAL REMARKS
the flowers arc even produced during the fnow. Tlie leaves oi
the iuJfilagOy however, never come out till about a fortnight after
the fnow is gone.
The Andromeda carulea adorns the bogs of Lapland. 1 found
fomc entirely white, and gathered fevcral fpecimens of them.
The willows are numerous in Lapland, but it is rather difficult
to know them, as in many the time of the flower and that of the
leaves is diftcrent. They are a ufeful production for the economy
of nature, particularly in that country: they furnilli the birds
witl) good material's for building their nells, by means of the cottony
fubftance they afford : the infeCls prefer them to other trees,
and by their long and winding roots, they keep the banks of
brooks and rivers together, which would otherwife crumble to
pieces. The Laplanders make cords of the roots of the wdllow,
which they ufe in their fifherics.
The quicknefs of the vegetation in Lapland is a thing of which
we have no conception in other parts of Europe. The whole is
accompliflicd in the fpacc of two months ; and to give the reader
a more accurate idea of it, I will mention as an example, that a
tobacco plant at Enontekis generally increafes more than an inch
in circumference during the interval of twenty-four hours.
I remarked in my travels what trees extended fartheft to the
north, and from this 1 abftraCled a kind of rule for the latitude
in which I found myfelf. For inftance, from Tornea as far as
Ketkemando, you meet with firs, pines, and birches, promifeuoufly
: but beyond Ketkemando the firs difappear, and you only
fee
, CONCERNING LAPLAND. 263
fee pines and birches. From Kautokelno as far as the mountains
you lofc fight of the pines, and the birches alone remain. At
Alten you again fee a few pines ; but from Altcn to the North
Cape, you perceive nothing but birches, and thefc become fcarcer
the nearer you approach the North Cape ,:
Rara, nec hxc felix in aperds eminet arvis
Arbos

.SECI'ION
46 ^ GENERAL REMARKS
L
SECTION XVII.
Of Minerals.
"OARON Hermclin, who has publiflied maps of Sweden, Finland,
and Lapland, which wc have noticed before, is at prefent
engaged in a work on the Lapland minerals ; and wc may expeft
fomething very fatisfadory from the labours of a perfon fo
well verfed in that fcicncc, and fo accurate and attentive in his
rcfearches. Lapland abounds in minerals of all kinds : but it is
not eafy for a traveller, who is but fuperficially acquainted with
the fubjeif, and who is hurried by the fliortnefs of his time, to
communicate as much information as the reader of his work may
perhaps be led to look for. I colledcd in that remote country
fome ftoncs, or minerals ; but foon found them too cumberfome,
as wc were frequently obliged to travel on foot, and have our baggage
carried by men.
When I returned to Stockholm, I laid the fpecimens I had
kept before Mr. Hyclm, who has the care of the colledion of minerals
at that place, and is infpeftor of the mint ; and he Ihowed
me a great number of minerals brought from the fame country
by different travellers, and chiefly thofc whom Baron Hermclin
7 had
i6s

. LA?UND.
;v . :
had employ^ to dftw ffl for hc aVways chofo fuch*focn
as wwacquainted that they might Ukcwifc be
^ tifeful to him ia th^ ia^'ce, Which; is
^
objeft of his
attention.. .''VV
Mr. Hycliii^ not only favour me with many
fpecitnens> of which Bfe h^d ^ cohdcfccndcd to
write out for me a fyfttlfla^^^ the Lapland minerals*
contained in th icdtlei^ibh to, which arc arranged according
to *thc dtffIreM parts'of from whence fhey
were obtained I /l^is'diff ^ ' wrh hcle'iuh^^^
will iivtercili the lovers ft ?
It
Thisfift, iai wilf tefelli feSSt^fiinii provinces
in the;iie|gKbbttrhK>^ Thh deyistion
from the llrictjiiniti of ^apland as it brings additiofiai
informatibh, and al
been tfic'lbbjec^of the,foregoh^f^i^^
The na^s of l^c in^SvvediA, and
ibrnetinies explained by '% We^fia^e attempted to render into
the [aii^g<rjf^i^
terms
nfed bythefc writew. To avoid the pffibiHty off miftalte, the Swediih words
are linehtfblic^ and Ibirieiimes
aJ(o the Pt remained;
.
the fign of O^ve^ l?^
ha^ appear pretty
. accurate.

^ VOL. II. LIST

iC6 GENERAL REMARKS
LIST OF MINERALS,
I. MINERALS OF JEMTLAND IN SWEDEN.
1. Stones.
Calcareous Genus. Calcareous (Swed. Kalkfpat ; Frcncli,
Spath calcaire) white and red, ofdifferent kinds of cryftallization.
Limejlone (Sw. Kalkften). Marble, ftriated
and of various colours. Stala5iUes (Sw. Droppffen).
Ssxinejlone (Sw. Orften) cryffallifed and compaft.
Marl i(Sw. Mergcl) i. c. chalk mixed w'ith clay : it
occurs in different forms, land is accordingly diftinguilhed
in Sweden by different names, of Marlehr, or
Nackelbrod.
Siliceous Genus. Mouniaiu or Rochcr^al (Sw. Bcrgcryftaller)
of different fizc and colour. JaJPer. Shorl (Sw. SkorlJ.
Chert or Hort^om (Sw. Hallefiinta ; Germ. Hornftein
;
Fr. caillou de roche ; Lat. Petrofilex, or Lapis corncus).
Garnet (Sw. Granatcr ; Fr. Grenat; Lat. Granatus).
Coarfe grained GarnetJione, ot Amorphous Garnet (Sw.
Granatbcrg; Fr. Roche de Grcnat; Germ. Granat*
llein : Granatus particulis granulatis, figurS indetermi*
nat^). tZiro/zV^, ofIcveral variations.See the Travellers
Guide
concerning LAPLAND. ifi;
Guide by Mr. Engeftrom, p. 36, 37. Siliceous Shi/ltts
(Sw. Kifelikifcr).
Muriatic Genus. Shifiofe Talcf (Sw. Tallklklfcr). Poifione
(Sw. Tallgftcn ; Lat. Lrapis pilaris). Chlorite. Steatites
(w. SpackRcn). Amiantus. AJb^us, offundry Ipccies.
Argillaceous Genus. Trap (Sw. & Germ. Trapp). Mica.
(Sw. & Germ.. Glimmer) white and black.,
Aggregateo Stones : (Sw. Hallearter). Koria- or Muryicu,
compo/ed of Mica or Potftone, with Garnet.* Shiftojl
Mica (Sw. Glimmcrfkifer or Hiillftcn) confifting of
Quartz and Mica. Shijlofe ClayP (Sw. Lcr/kifcr)f
2. Metals.
Copper : Copper Pyrites (Swr, Koppar kis). Blue Copper ore (Sw.
Koppar Lazur ; Germ. Kupfer Lazur), Mountain Blue
(Sw. Bergblatt ; Germ. Bergblau ; Fr. Bleu de montagne).
Mountain Green (Sw. Bcrggront ; Fr. Verd de
montagne).
Iron ; Swampy Iron ore (Sw. Myrmalm; Germ. Sumpfcrz; Fr.
mine de fer limoneule),
Lead : Galena (Sw. Blyglans; Germ. Bleyglanz; Fr. Galene)
of many variations in texture and mixture, even with
pyrites ofbrown" iron.
Zink : Blende, which is Zij||ik mineralifed by fulphur with iron.
* Kiiwan puts quartz, mica, garnet; See Elem. of Mineral, vol. i. p. 343.
4 Kitwan clafles this under the argillaceous genus. See vol. i. p. 1 82.
Mm2 3. Petri368
GENERAL REMARKS
3. FetrifaSlions.
Petrified wood.
n. MINEBALS OF ANOEBMANLANO.
Ibon : Iron ore.
III. MINEBALS OF TOBNfeO LAPPMARK.
1 . Slones.
Calcareous Gen. Limejlone (Sw. KalkRcn). Calcareous Spar.
Scaly hm^otul* (Sw. Limfieti). Marl. Fluor Spar. .
Siliceous Gen. Quartz. Mountain or Rock Cryjlal. Amethyji.
Garnet. Coarfe Garnet. Bafanhe or Black Jafper If
(Sw. Melanit). Skorl. Zeolite. Hortiftone. Jajper. Siliceous
Shifttis.
Muriatic Gen. Shiftf^e Talc? (Sw. Tallklkifcr). Steatites.
Serpentine. Chlorite. AJb^oid^X (Sw. ftralftcn). .^eftus.
Amiantus.
Barttic Gen. Ponderous Spar (Sw. Tung Spat).
Argillaceous Gen. different fpecies ; Trap, Hornblende, Mica,
Aluminous earth (Sw. Alunhalltig jord).
Aggregates ; Serpentine Rock (Sw. Ophite). Norka. Amygdaloid
,(Sw. Mandelften). Porphyry. Breccw, Sapd/iones. Shif-
ClayP
* Sse Cronftedt, vol. i. p. 24.
t See Kirwan, vol. i.p. SOT.
% Ibid. p. 166 and 167.
7
'CONCERNING LAPLAND. a6o
tofe Clay? (Sw. Le^ifer). Shifiofe Hornblende? (S,v.
Hornblendefkifer).*
2. Inflammable Subjlattces.
Plumbago (Sw. Blyertz or Graphit). Native Sulphur. Martial Py^
rites or Common Sulphur Pyrites (Sw. Swafvel kis;
Germ. Sulphur kies). *
3. Metals.
Copper: Copper Pyrites. Blue Copper ore. Vitreous Copper ore
(Sw. Kopparglas ; Germ. Kupfcrglas). Mountain Blue.
Mountain Green. Malachite. Dendrites in Copper Pyrites
?f Koppar Brandertz?\
^
Iron : Iron ore. Ferruginous Sand? (Sw. larn fand). Micaceous
Iron ore (Sw. larn glimmer ; Germ. Eifcn glimmer).
Hcematites or Bloo0one. Sparry Iron ore (Sw. St&iften
Germ. Stahlilein or Spathiger EiftenRein of Werner
;
Fr. mine dc fer fpatique). Iron Ochre. *
Arsenic : Arfenical Pyrites or Marcc^te (Sw. Arfenikkis ; Germ.
Arfenikkics). .
Molybdena.,
Gold : Native Gold, only once found at Svappawara.
* Kirwan arranges the thiftofe clay, and ihiitofe hornblende, under the aigilla'
ceous genus. See vol. i. p. 182, and p. 222.
t This I have not been able to afcertain.-N.
I What is meant by this I do not exactly know.N.
d. Petri*>
0 GINMAL REMARKS
C- . .
4. P(trifa^ions
Are found but feldom.
Note. The principal mines of Tornca Lappmark are, Packtavara,
Skanglivara, Raggiovara, Jonuswando, Kirunavara, LuolTovara,
Wouovara, Kittila, &c.
I^l IV. MINERALS OF UMEO LAPPMARK.
Iron ores of different kinds
vi MINERALS OF PITEO LAPPMARK.
1. Stones,
Calcareous Gen. CaJeareous Spar. Sidero CalciteP'^ {Svt. Bran
ipat ; Fr. Spat calcaire rouge et brun).
Siliceous Gen. Qwart*. Bstcl Crjifial. Short, Siliceous Shifius.
Muriatic Gen. Steatites. Afieftus.
Ak-diLLACEOus Gen. iPtca, white and black.
Aoorega'I'ES : Norka. Mea (Sw. Glimmerikifer).
' 2. Jnfiamtiidbie Subfiances,
Martial Pyrites.
3 . Metals.
Lead: Galena.
Zink : Blende.
Iron:
* Airaran, toi. i. p. ws.
CONCERNING LAPLAND. 971
Iron; /n>OcArtf.
*
Antimony ; Sulphurated Antlnumy, or Antimony Pyrites (Sw.
Ahtimonii Pyrites ; Fr. Pyritc Antimonialc). From the
mine of Nafafjall.
VI. MINERALS OF LUTEO L'APPMARK.
i. Stones. :
f
Calcareous Gen. Lim^one (Sw, Kalkftcn). Calcareous Spar.
Marble. Gypfum. Lime (Sw. Kalk) with Garnets.
Siliceous GEN. (3<ir/*. Mountain ot Rofk Cryflal. Jajper.
Chert or Horn/lone. Shorl. Garnet. Feljpar (Sw. Fiiltfpat).
Siliceous Shiftus\Sw. Kiiclkifer).
Muriatic Gen. Steatites.
,,
*
Argillaceous Gen. Trap. Clay imtaining Iron, ot Ferruginotis
Argillite P (Sw. lamhalltig Lera).
Aggregates : Serpentine Rock. Gneifs (Sw. Gneis). Shiftofe
Mica. Breccias. Puddfngjlone.
^
2. l^als.
Copper : Copper Pyrites. Vitreous Copper ore. Mountain Green.
Malachite.
Lead: Ga/wia (Sw. Blyglans).
Zink : Blende.
Iron : Iron ores of leveralvUnds, and plentiful. Hamatites or
Bloodftone. Swampy Iron ore {^w. Mytm'e\m).
. Note.
272 general REMARK
Note. The principal mines df Lute& Lappmark are, Kedkevara,
Alkavara, Hjertavara, Gellmra,
VII. MINERALS OF KEMI LAPPMARK.
1. Stones. c.
Siliceous Gen. Hormone. , Garnet. Siliceous Shi/lus.
Muriatic Gen. Shiflof^ Talc? (Sw. Tallklkifer) with a black
grain. Amiantia. Steatites. AJbeJioidf* (Sw. Stralftcn).
Argillaceous Gen. Mica. Hornblende. Wdcken.
Aggregates: Sandfiones. Hornblende Slate \Svf. Gam. Iiom~
blendefchifer). Breccias.
' 2. Metals. ,
Copper : Ct^per Pyrites. Mountain Green.
Lead: Galena.
Iron : Sparry Iron ore (Sw.Stalften; Germ. Stahlftein). Iron Ochre.
YIII. minerals. of WESTRO-BOTHNIA.
1. Stones,
Argillaceous Gen. Clay,containing Iron, at Ferruginotts Argillite?
(Sw. lamhailtig L^). ^ Trap. Hornblende.
Aggregates : ShiftoJe Mica (Sw. Glimmer Skifer). Grunften ox
Grfl/r//(Sw. Gronftcn).,
* Kirwan, rol. i.p. 166, 167.
2. In^
CONCSRHING tAPEAND. '
f
. * 2. Injffamaahk Su^ncef
(S#. and Germ. Gfaphit).
3. Metals.
Iron : Iron art.
IX. MINERALS OF OSTROKBOTHNIA.
1. Stones.
Siliceous Gen. Quarts. Gametl Ba/anite or Blacl JaJperP
(Sw. Mclanit). .
Muriatic Gen. Shiftofe Talc (Sw. Tallkfkifcr).
Argillaceous Gen ; .Hornblende. *
Aggregates:' GrK^ or GnwuVr// (Sw. Gronften). Shifio/e
Mtcd.
2, Infiammahk Su^ances.
Plumbago. Martial Pyrites (Sw. Swafvelkis).
i. Metals.
Iron . 'iroin ore. ' Mora^ Iron oref* (Sw. Sjimalm). Swampy Iron
Ow (Sw^Myrmalm). Fern^iwoaf (Sw.Tarnfand).
Arsenic : Jfi^mcal Pyrites ot Mdrci^te {Syr, Arlenikkis)^
See Kitww^ yol. u.p. 1*3.
VoL. II. Nn X. MINERALS
274 GENERAL REMARKS
X. MIKE^ALS 6f THE OOVERHMENT OF ULSAbORO.
1. Stones.
SiLiCEOirs Geh. Quartz. Chert at Sori^onet Short,
Muriatic Geh. Amiantus. Steatites,
Aroielaceous Gtin/htarti^
Aqorboatbs : Shtftofe Mica.
2. InfloMmahle- Suyiances.
Phftnbi^o, Martial Pyrites,
3 h^etals.
Coffer: Vitretnis Copper Ore.^ Mi>ia^aittGrm<
XI. MIHERAtS OF CARELIA.
CAi.cARB0,tfjl OEir^ a(P>rt0 S^arf*
SILICEOUR Gbk. Cfc//&r Mounturn
or PLodt Ctyftal.
MuRlATIp
See dronfte4t>:yo|iii
t See 1Cinr^ Voi. i. p. M4.
^ ^Krvap^^^li p;,.l7
(Sw.
CON^R^G tAPLAND. .75
(Sw. Tremolit); (Sw. Stralftcn; Germ,
%rahlllein). >
Akoillaceous Gen. Aluminm Slate {^yi. Alunikifer).
Agoreoates: San^otuis,
2. InflamtHobU Siibjiancet.
Plumbago. Martial Pyrites.
Z. Metals.
Iron : Ochraceous Iron Ore, found at the bottom of lakes (Svr.
Sj5malm).f
XII. MINERALS OF Fikt
J
lNIJ, FROPSRLT Sb CALLED.
1. Stones.
Calcareous Gen. Lameftone. Calcareous Spar. Marble. Sidero .
(Sw;Bilihi|t).
Siliceous-^SN tiQ*WF/*i *cd joid j^rcen. Shorl. Garnet^ yrhich.
18 fujpiftoibdltp bontidn tin, but appaiditljr conttim
Muriatic Gen. jS^^
filhes.. gUttermg. Tri^. Btfalt.
^
t bhtheracri^frai'<^|
p|||^^
Kh2 AaoRE
'27'6. '' tii^RAfe'ftl
Aoobeoates : or (^admt^Ces P* (^Svf. Brynftcn ; Fr.
pierre ^ aiguiier). Shtfiofe Mtcci,
2. IttJlammMe Subjiaftci^.
Plumbago. Ahrtial Pyrites at Common Su^hur Pjrrhfs.
3. Metals,
C6?vtlx: Copper Pyrites.
Iron: Iron Ore. Swampy Iron Qr<i'
kfL^mc '. Ar/emal Pyrites at Marcq/ite.
TuKostENiTE: Wolfram.
XIU. , l.!ERAtR ,OF.^|Jtl.XRI>V'lN
GAliCAREOUS Gen. ' lamfhne. Calcareous Spar. Marble. Marl.
Sidero CalciteP (Sw. Brunfpar)* ' Pfmr Spar.
Siliceous Gen; ^udrtsiy whttc blue, green. Mountain or Rock
^ 0^<j/, blue. To/w*t(Sw., Rock tppas; Germ.
Rauch topas). SAor/. Garn^. Bcfmfte exBlackJaf-
(Sw. Germ. Melanit), Cearjfi G<W9</ (Sw. Granatberg).
Zeolite. Feypar. -:
Muratic Gen. Ta& (Sw. Tallkikifer). Serpentined jif-
Ag^x. (Svr. StrSlftcnJ.^C^
* if.the hovacultte of Kirwaa.nrere meant, it (hoard he tefeliiKd to the
laceous genus. See vol. i. p. 238. < ^^111*
'
'
.t See.GibnAedt, voUi. p;169. .>

'
' 'Argil,
GONOEI^G .?77
AnaiLtACJSOUS Gen. Clay containing Iron, or Ferruginous Argil-
'litef (Sw, rarnhalltigLeraJ. Trap, Hornblende, Mica.
Bafalt,
Aooreoates : Serpentine Rod (SW. Ophit). ShiftofeMica. Common
roof Slate P (^Sw. Taklkifer; Lat. Schiftustegularis).
Talc with Mica (Sw. Tallh mcd Glimmer).
2. hflammahle Suhjiances.
Plumbago, Martial Pyrites, or Common Sulphur Pyrites (Sw.
Swafvelkis). ,
^
3. Metals,
Corvm.: Copper PyrHes.
Iron: Iron Ore oI the o^moa fort. Haematites with Manganefe.
Sparry Iron. Ore (Sw. Stalften ; Germ. Stahl-
&pin). Iron Ochre. Native Prupjian Blue P
r turlig Berlinerbll). :
Lead : Ga/wa (Sw. BlygUns).
.Arsenic : Arfywd Pyrites, or Marcajite (Sw, Arfenikkis).
.r. . , , ^r Patrifadlions. . .
Sonic are'.j^uttdivv
:
Note,- The moi^ remarkable mines in Nyland are thofe of Leppcla
and
XIV. MINERALS
Xiy. MIKBBALS OF THE IStES OF ALAND.
yyl. S^ti
CalcAKEor8 Gen. CempaS lamejlohe (Sw. 'fat Kalkfken). Marl.
Siliceous 0N;; .QjH^js.v QMHfts C^a/^ Quarts cryibliei).
Mountain^ Rocl Cr)iflal. Fel/par.
hzkp; ^Galena.
t B. The Wks Inkdc m theycctr 1800, from the
* fpf;cim@Bs i& the bolie^lba the Odlej^, or
tbs ofthe mines at^Bto^dmi
SECtlON
GgIpipiTG LAEW>.
SECTION XVIIL
: Of
r^HE Lapland women prepare the Ikins of the foxes, &wns,
otters, and other animals for &le; to which end they itrip
# them of the membranes, and afterwards cum them with filh oil.
The finews taken from the legs of the rein-deer tire held before
the fire, and beaten with wooden hammers ; then they are divided
into filaments as fine as hah, vsl^h dte homen twiil into threads
of different thicknefitf^ the harnefs
pfthe fledges with whi^*'ihey"^
through a machine made of the fkull of the rein-deer, provided
with holes of different fixes, accordiji^to the thicknefs of the wire
they have obcafiott for. With ffiis wire the women afterwards
embroider, and fbme of them in a very neat manner, not only the
harnefs bf-the rh-deer, but tjie coats and glOves of the men, as'
has been already mentioned. The women likewife know how to
dye clbffi in a yelloyy colour, which they apply to various ornaments.
The NanketS the Laplanders ufe are all woven by the
women ; and after having ferved for a time as a covering' for their
beds, they join, them together, u many as are neceflaiy, and converttheminto
a covetihg^ theur tents.
The
tJic tnen^w ycry various capa>
c^^csj frojp cups to ,drink out ofi to calks for. containing the milk
df their rcin*decr. Thc wood they cmploy for this purpofejs from
the beech-tree, which is maple, when
finely polilhed. From the ho]td|of the reindeer they manufacture
vc^
haddfcmcly in figifres not unlkilfially defigned. Steel they wort
prip^nt them in an
clegint matter, "^ih^yc.^re^dy fpoken,of their fledges; be-:
fid,^ wjbich ..they huild boat,ii^ Ti;ith the JsfQrwegians
W .SaWjngrmilis are but
l^tely^itittd^ttQcd an3opgft th^,.yvbich, will contribute gteatly to
the faving of wood: foy^^ygh^^ which they be--
ufed tI^yjCotd4.opJy,fplh: a i^tp^^ they can
CONCBWSING LAPLAND. 28*
SECTION XIX.
' Offome particular Cuftom ammg. the Laplanders.
TN this iedbn the reader* iviU find leveral things mentioned,
which are not touched upon in anj other part of this work.
From the time of the ancient Sa)cons, or the beginning of the
twelfth century, the Laplanders, were' known by the name of
Shrit-Fimi ; and from that period to the prefent have invariably
obferved their original cuftbms and manners.
It is ufual with them, as in the aft, never to wait on a fupe*
rior without a preient. If s Laplander lias occafioh to a^nd a
magiftrate, or his clergyman, he brings with him either a cheele,
a hare, partridge, lea or river fifii, a lamb, Ibme venilbn, a reindeers
tongue, butter, a quantity ofdown feathers, or ibmething
of the like kind. In return for his prefent, he never goes back
empty, but receives either fome . tobacco, or a bottle of mead, a
keg of beer, Ibme ginger and ipices, or, in (bort, whatever is at
hand which may be fuppofed acceptable. The fiime cuftom prevails
amongft the Mulcovites.
The Laplanders formerly made ufe of a ftick called prarnfave,
<1^ way of almanack, on wdiich were marked the ftveral teftivals
and. iincipal days of the year.
. VoL. II. O o The
e82 RMARK$
I
. The,midwifes office, throughout Lapland, is generally performed
hy the huffiand.
The pallor, orparfon of the place, is for the moll part godfather
to all the children of hu parilh ; hiffides whiph, he does
the duties of pariih fchoolmafter and churchvirafdth.
When occafioii requires the whole fatnily to leaVe the tent, if
there happm tq.be a. child too young to follow the reft, it is put
iitrto a chefti and tied with a' cord,*that it may do ilfelf no mifchief
by lire, or otherwile: or, if the child be above three years
old, it .is faftened wiffi a ftrap by the foot, tp a ihdce driven into
i
the ground' in ibme convenient pwt of the hufor tent.

iWTipn the Laplanders meet, they embrace each other, crying

out bmrjfi ! which is as much as to lay/ lave you
!
'
/ The women lhave the heads of their children quite dole ; and
contrary, to the praftice of the ladies' in all othe'r countries, to
ufe the miffidnary's expreffion, 1/r^/a de Ijr/kuked en liniv ; which
words, though very much apprdiiehing the Ehghffi languageV will
be perhaps uhintelligibie, unli^ t trahllate them ; ft>r doing which
I hope I lhall be pardoned^ by the reader. Themeaning' of the
miffionarys dtpreffion is, that the good women of Li^lahd r/
their chiidrens lice with a knife and kill them.
As a remedy for pains in the limliV^ they piit a couple of ligatures
about the .part, and to the betwixt them a^^^ a buming
firebrand, which they aflniin heilcr fails of ^ving relief.
tlo horfes arc erriployed in Weft Finmark, the labour everywh
e elle performed by ihole ufelul anuhi^, l^mg therd dohe
. -.J
'
CONCERNING LAPLAND.
^
aS^
men. In this refpetft the moun^in Laplanders arc better accotn*
modated, as they ufe their .rein-deer for that puipofe. Since agri>
culture is not attended to, exc^tnn fome few fpots near the river
Alten, the Laplanders confume by fire the dung collcded from
their cows, dheep, and goats.
Thofe who by traffic have acqiiited wealth, have a cuftnm of
burying their money, in the earth ; and this they do ib lecrctly
and effc(flually, that, their hein or fuccefiots rarely find it. That
they ffiould preferve it thus whilift they live, is not lurprizihg, ber
caufe they have no iron chefis, or other ficurity againfi: thieVes
;
but that they ffiould conceal it frona theirpoifterity is a maiteir/bur
miffionary confefib, he is not able to 'acbouht for.* He heatd of a
rich man, who, on having the queftion piit to him ^ his death*
bed, why he had fo carefolly conew^ his money frorft his family
? replied, that he ffioufd hayc occafion for ' it in ffie cbuntry
whither he was going.
In ffime parU of Finmark'^tfie Laplanders make ufi of the hot
bath, fprinkling .their heads at the fame time with the hot water,
through the medium of a bunch of rods.
b 0 2 SECTION
^^,4 , il^RAt HEMARIES *
JiprioN sa*:
' uf lLaplmd Court^^
TT taie^ hippisas tbit the'natives of Noi^y intermany with
? the Laplandets: The iniffioiiBty Leems ol^^^ heiiever
knew 8n io|ance of the kind diithig his iebg ao^
Lapland.
'W^ bos an indination to tnarry a young female
of Ms nation^ he comnunucatea hu vMih M his own Mmtly> who
then repair in a'<body to the dW^ng f the' parents Of the ^f1>
tabit^ with them w^qnantii^ Of htsKidy to drink npon the o(S
cafion, and a flight prefent Mr the young woman ; Mr inflanice,
ai^e^omnnoitod with filver^ a ring, m MmethMg ;jike
kind. :f When they come, to the door Of the hut in Which flid
livCsi 'thcv principal fpokefman enters fitfh MUowed^ hy the ^refl.
of the Mndied, the .Mitor- wMdi^^'Without ^unril ^e-Mall < he in*
Wted to dater. M thj; oratfw i^^oiit
of brandy, o t the gifi'a);f|itiW, whoj/if
he aeo^ts <ril It, he approves
abitwf^ln faeintoired:ME^ '1 The brandyis IttiMed^ i^
v-' to.
* COKCElMa LA^AKD. ,
tty the girls father and mother, and her friends aifembled toge*
ther, blit likOmfe to the intended bride ; and in the contle of thU>
compotation leave is obtained for the young nuui to forward his
fait in his own perfon. The orator then in a fet fpeech makes a
beginning ; and in this fta^ of the codtfhip the lover is himfelf
introduced, but takes his feat at a diftance from the reft, placing
himfelf near the door. The parents of the girl at length fignifying
their full confent to the match, the fuitor offers the maiden the
prefent he has brought with him, and at the &me time promifcs
wedding clothes to-her father and mother. Mattets beii^ riids
happily fettled, the com{!^ riq)art.^he ceremonial, as it is here
put down, is commonly obferred, in the whole, or in part, upiHi
thefe occafions ; ind^d, it rarely happens that>any of them are
omitted. Should it be the cafe that the parents, after having
thus given thrir confent,. d^>art from their word it is an efiablifhed
law amongft the L^hmders, that all the cxpences incurred
muft be made good, evtm to -ftie brandy drunk at the firft
.fts ^n as.riie parties are ;betrothed, the young man is allowed
to vifit the intended bride ; ahd'-on his way, to enjoy thk happineft,
he fbmetimes recreates his mind with finging fbngi of his
own compohrion in her piaife; : Love nem'fails to make poets
;
the |#apilander^;8 |ctiy, in^cd, furrrifhes no fpedw of elegant
cfFufions I he paints his ldve ki: the thouj^ts which ftift prefent
tbemftlves, end CMfmfiiot me^ ab^ words he
relate to his pafiSoh, aod?t^ h'fuffic^ for his purpofe.
Nor
m , OENERAL REMARltlJ
.
Nor can it in teuth be wid to be always the cafe, that he fihgs
uj^n theft occafions ; but whenever he bin the preftnee of his
belpved, though he fliouid fprb^r to lihg, he does not fti! to offer
to her whatever he thinks mil be itiioft acceptable,- Whether
brandy, tobacco, or any 'thiog/dft/ On fhe day bf't^ nuptials
the bride appears dreffed in her gala habit ; with this difference,
that whereas her head is comeponly clofe covered at other times,
upon this occaiion her hair is left to flow loofe upon her ihoulders
; and flie wears a bandeau of diflerent coloured ituffi, and
ftmetimes a fillet. The marriage ceremony over, the nuptials
are celebrated in a frugal manner and without Ihow. Such of
the guefts as are invited, and are of fiiffident ability to do it,
make the bride a^reftnt of money, rein-deer, or ftmething to*
wardsaflx>ck.
In ftme {arts of Lapland it is the cuftom, a few days after
the marriage, for tlje relations and friends of the newly married
couple, to meet iuid {brtake of an entertunment, which b but
an hotiidy one, as it confifts of meflhs of fi>up, or broth, with a
little roaft mutton/ and Ibtne hietheglin ; which being all con*
fumed, the guefts,afterwards take their departure. Mufic and
dancing are entirely unknown amongft the Laplanders, on theic
or any other feftivities ; nor are they even acquainted with the
ufe of any one mufical inftrutnetit ; and ftem to be totally jpea-
{>abie of learning to fing in tune.
'
; bridegroom generally remains with the
during Jthe Ipacc of one year after marriage^ and at the expiration
1 ; of
CONCERNING LAPLAND.
of that perioAhe tak&^ of fettlingWpiyf
in the ,w#; fw
by thek jt^mft^
an cftablilhincnt, fuch as, icv J ^
articles, which, thmigh of in^
tially neceljGiry in dome^ ^
SECTION
88 GENERAL REMARKS
SECTION XXI.
Of Sports oHd 'AmufmenU. .
'T^HE L&plandm do not obferve Chrifhnas at a feftival ; nor
have they any fimilatxdays that they particularly diftlnguifli.
They know nothing, or very little, of playing at cards. They
exercile thenifelves in throwing at a mark with a javelin : the
prizes in thefe games, for thole who come neareft the mark, arefometimes
pieces of money, at other times tobacco, or fuch like
articles. Belides this diverfion, they'ha^ another with a leathern
ball ittified hard,^hidi isfiruck in the air^ and caught before it
falls to the ground
A certiun amufement called gaafejpil. Or the game of fox arid
geefe, is in great rei^uelt with riiem. . This is played by two parties;
on a board marked with l(](uare divllionafor the purpole ; One
of the parties mant^ng thirteen j;^gs, called gCelb, about this labyrinth
; and, as may be iMa^ed, in^ di^teri^ of purihit and
efcape conlilb the {kill of the players.
Leaping over a flick held in an horizontal pblitioh by t#b Laplanders,
is another diverfion with which they pals their time.
Sometimes two' Laplanders, having each of thenialrick m his
hahds, from the end of one A rope being extended to the dther,
"
'-./will
CQi^QE&sIiNG LAPLAND,
.
will (bive jsf -diftibigiig^^^ tlie flick froto wch others grafp ; and In
this, pcrhap^vtlxtj' arc afliflcd <09 e^:ilidis by ax\ equal number of
the by-flinders ; this occaifeihs itji^iijM^^ at length the
rppe brjeaks, or the weakeft paj^ gives way, which at once decides
the cqnteft j yvhe^ is one depending
on the event, is determined, the prize is afligned to the
vi^or<,^ Anothcr^e^^rcifc confife in two of tbciWif^l^ing th|i
hand$,ih each,others belt, flriym raifb pne apqther frppx rac
ground, and thus o?;Oh Other a f^U,_ ^e beildes ex*
pert wrcftlejfs ; and ,the/e kind pf crc^f arc.fqnpd.necc^iy to
keep their bodies wprm, as well aa to fill up. their intervds of
leifurc,, when they arc ,npo a journey, . during, the ftppp|ges.- requifitc
tofie made; tp. give
;
their rein-dicet opportunity of..h^b^
ing : for which purpofe, aa has already been ohfer.ved, thpfe: anU:
mals muft dig up the fnovy in queft of mofs, a^it : is, not pofiible
to .car|y firagp ,wUh them in their fledges.,
They ar? in,' general ex<^llcnt rpa^ftocn and ibmc of them
have been known, to hit a. ftnall objedt with 1 a huUet fired from
thgir picc<s, ^at n cpnfi^||^hle, diflance f and that fo^ a nntpher of
ti,ipcs;|>catcdly, w^i^^ . >
VOL. 11. Pp SECTION
SECTION 3PCIJ
Ofthe b^<l[es tov^^ L^OH^ and theRemt^
dies ih^ t^erOJtheir Funerakhas
noi 'i^de ite appcat^e there Tm many years. In ge-
*Jy R#We,fetc of herith, and
exiting the h^-ach, and a di^det^ maylje 1^
be^from dtf^es. Inwaid r|r
fwj^wihg tl^ hjbpd |hc s^i:^.dccgr,iis wana.as po^blie.
d*ukii?g the feals Wood t
this is hut a late' temedy, for :mttiy . they^ hnew no o^er applU
**^'1^3 1^: * I'ghtW.'with ^ It kieirwrkaWe ..
andihk in a mahnw unkoowa to the inhabkanis nf
mates.
.... ,;> :-^f-
Their method of cure for a difeafe of
now> and hehed 1^ recotenaen^ by the -
feAral^y of phyfi^f 1.1.. j.
dii
f JE; '.'..if.'- .-.* >*j . iTi , .-v ^ m (common Idufi) wifliW the ryelids, whiWii by
.
xl.'^' -I-j:'!.! . ir. _ . .*
Its imtationi ujfeB the; b^ of .the eye, they to;
ruh off Ac mciribttmci and icqj^^ th^xaufc of the complaint.
Chilblains may be fuppoled no unfreqnent dilbrder wiA the
younger part of the L^at^; well as %%iand
contraftions of Ac limbs, tilIfevq^^ Ae cold^^ V
by an ointment which they eitm^ fnmi the cheefe ma|t<y f ryjndeers
milk. They hwl and rafeli fieib Wonn^" witk Ac uhpte>>
pared gum which a
diflocated or fra^red bone, ssihiA A^ do' wiA han^ngof |[^-i
putation of limbs being a pra^ ofwhich
idea), they fWallow, in a drihii a p?CM ol filver, ca even Ws,
beaten into a poWderf Acy i^erc j^is^P^^ be of
great effiAcy in forwarding Ae'e^
Wt htoe afreadf mAtkinM'Ae adual totoer^^ b?
A6;LaplAdi!i fe pains- imAb hai^'i^^ This wHi bring ,
to Ac recolteftibri of <mt- Ae moxa, ^ich has
formerly bcA tried as i' li^ld^iri fite i^the jgout. The inoxa js
a dry yegeiable folribnto,irii^htiri^ ^hina and Japap^ not unlike'Ae
eointnbn iut^brt iir applied to Ac lk|n, |nd , A^ fob Ikplanders for Ais pugr*
pofo^ is SimSair appliodons were in
ufe during Ac a^ of Hippocrmw,.and toW
pririefrOf{AjiUdiim brntfolfl ,
'
thr'riptiS^^tap^^.aia'rejg
jij jjg.
''obforved'"'
?9*:,.,.
obfeh^ indihtp ipethpd of curt!, namely, &t the buck's fihews
ltd to thc^ legs of the female Laiplandef, and
pble^fme doe. tq
v.^i|fi^.fnn^ls a
'..the male. .v *-::.-v-r::'-
re condufled with IStle iceremony., The body.
'.#gh^y;^|ap^d.p
. ^tendgd
n ,in a coarle doth; js ' 1^
^90Vpy of wd frii^
the i^ve, ati
bf the de*
a|r9^fisii^]^|^^i|i^4;'^^^ i^tCf ^oipi a Anall jj^rtidti'
;Ae (jbtnpany. It'^asan.
tfedfc^ho excelled
*4ndHdfl<a5*^^w^^ with fire-arnas. in Ifife ^und cemfe-
'

.v V
-v.:-7w ... V ^'i;'^ vY';* -''
O' "'
i-\- . > ,- .' .-.
j*
A 4tt honour of their deities; The fefejMdchw
ip fto dthcr, bdttom
.Inwards over the ip^whwthe It was liKCwilc
Vfiwd formcriy ^S a hcapi3 body ; but
thid pra^ic^ ip now laid. aiide> and the :flcdge at prcfcnt tfie
jdply;iilonun)cnt. Another circuinftti||^' prevailed atnongft the
- L^plandcrp before their entire cony^wn to Chitiftianity, namely,
that they placed an axe with a tinder-box by the fide ofthe corpfe,
if thatof a man ; and if a/w6nMi*'8; Ir faffaw and needle ; fuppofing
thele i[m{dements might be of ule td thcin in the other
world. They, Ukead^ put a
dead body, and |)?jmedi%i feniily,
' .;.they removed their habifidi^ td TOOtb^ ifer the firft three
rinie td 'tinie, to d^ bdles jby
"'^47 '
:
'
5
'
: '.^r .^cwn
XAitoD,
df tobacco, or fometluiig
|bat>|^, 0^ living. Thiy {iip^j^
the felicity of a future iiate to cbndift in fealHhg, fm^ to>
bfC9p,,4i;inkin^ jb^ and finiilar amu^'tlm^nts ; and they believed
that fhefe enjoyments were to be piiiticipht<fd'm the other
world in a lugher degree of perfeiftibn thah th^ ei^^
in this. . Such was their idea of the bii& to be^l^Uifd id the li^^
to come, in which they iteUeved their fcih-de4ir, ' ts' well"^^
reft of the bryte creation, wine to be equal parfjdtcrii.
'
It is a rule with the Laplanders, oh the birth of a child, to af
fign a female rein-deer, with all her future of^priiig,' ih a proviiion
when the boy or girl lhall be .grovvir up, which he 'hr Ihe becomes
entitled to, however the (^te may be dii^fed ofat tiiedeceafe
of the parents. By this provihon, the child fbmetimes becomes
the owner of a confiderable herd.
'
'
SECTION
SECTIQN 3PqiI.
V afyred before the
chri^nl^ have been proliMi^
ted finite' tbb tiWof in Norway, the
L^iataSiiiQibbt be Chrifi|^ of ah older date than
abwifi'etaSwiy.
'
by
the tiwm by trowra of Penmarh,
to piw^h ol'i&e|^ fo I have
beeti crcdiblf ih1^toedf4^^ p^n, to
cohdsat theth m
TlMito vrfaWllSie in Sieving this, when it is confidei^
hovr touch more eaiy and natunsd it b for a people like :
the'Ikpihdi^> 'tvi& a ftateof
perpiiittialfiuamatb^ tp placcp to Mieve ia corpp^eal
and limited deitits ih preference to one ^intoal and omnipotent.
That iraih or thinking wbiui^ mevitabiy fiu^ itf^^ mans condition,
tooft render inch w^e ofc%a^
their ddhteinpla&h lb die heavens, much lh4 d|^
prehenfions capaUe of concaving a p ge^ intel4-.
hgefile : kid nffther, ^hen vve teflef^ pp. ^
of cuilomvwd thp iiiciinbility of prg we ihall not be fur^
prifed tliat the Lplviders4^^Id>;p^ polytheiim of their
anceflors eveo to the chriuian ^i^on. :
"
*
The deities, thejjr vvo^ip|^; ^^>i|^,
The VcK iuper'Celefl^l : :di^e Badien AmhUt
and Radien Kiedde, ^hen followed celeKHid : theie were called
Behve, Ailekes, md AMfS^Oimk. 0(J3ac
fub-etleitiai, iiittd inhafetMts air.
, The cliicf j|jf.; thcfc^^
named Maderatjd
:
this deiil^ yfak iupppl^ t(^|eep the
the air neared;' the fun ; Others thU ti^bited,
the iiin, were disiiojniihated Ma^^ha and
the earth were diftih^iih^ b^jr ^e iramc
,^
Akka. The deities of this cwAjW^e fo pjhiccdj^ might
be at hahd tb alfift mankind ^en ctdled- upon. The go^ of the
.
fourth and lait dais were fubtermean/ and dwelt beneath the
earth. Of thofe hOa^ the findace, .wtre Sbneaj. Sakoo Olmak,
Sakvo^Gtiilki txi^ddbme Al^ Siicb b occupied the infernd^.:tegions,-
#hicli the t^plandcts 'fupp^d to be in. the i^ry bowels of
the eafth, were diSed BdM, Budno, Muhbm, and Palui EtfgeL,
Thefe ihfertial deltieSi; and the rc&i, though ponfidered as
evil-dilpofed tbWardk. mankind, were neverthelels wotlhippod by,
the peoj^di^^and foil that "very rcafon, in mrder tb depre^
Radien di
vini^, Qpthft;!iB^fe^i^'l^^ii^d'.<l^l<^ ; he hdd dominion
over ail the xe^|U ii^ame fbveipign power, and
the
_
REMARIK f ,
tb<^4dditioP' of; (ignUying 8;,fountain, becaufc he was the
fpring and fourcc from whence all the derived cxiftence and
power. Kkddeyizs> iaid, to the father
<:rEated nothingj bvkt ;i^nsfcrred the power of creation to the fon,
i to do, with it ;what w^ proper.' Thcfe two deities had power
over thpfe of the feepnd and third clafles, which, being all divini*
ties difpofed to do good, were highly reverenced by the Laplanders.
Such notions concerni^ the fupremc, divinity and his
fon, have heen attributed , not unfeafonably to their fupcrficial and
iniperfcd acquaintance with the chrilHan dqdrine.
Benue reprefented the fun, the fountain of light and heat,
through whofe bounty their rein- dser were fed. To this deity
there could beno offering fo g^ptable as .fla*- l.o allufion to
this fuperftition of their pagan anceftors, a verfc is fung by the
children in Norway at this day
;
Lova^ loya Hn, .
-v
Gud Udt fola Ikin
!
Letfuttjhinenewt
Andjtan vft vow!
HoragaUes y/9S the thunder. This was worfhipped as a god,
becaufe, fenfible of its eifeds, they deprecated the wrath of Horapiles,
left be fhOuld kill their rein-deer or themfelves.
Aikkes, Jmd Aikies-Olmak, were two deities to whoiii the Friday
and Saturday in every week were dedicated ; but in this point
there
^CONCERNING LAPLAND. ,297
there is a diiFerenCe amongft Laplanders, fomc of them cdn(ecrating
the Friday to the Saraihx (the Lapland Venus), the Saturday
to Radien, and the Sunday io AUekes,
Maderakka was the proteding goddels of the Lapland women,
who invoked her upon all occalions peculiar to their lex. She
was the Lapland Lucina, and had for her hulband Maderatja,
who procreated all things, having that office configned to him
from Radien-Kiedde. Sarakia wASi the daughter of' Maderakka,
equally adored by the Lapland matrons with the goddels her mother
; and JukfrAkka was another daughter. She had the care of
the children, which were entruRed to her from the moment of
dieir birth.
Scuvoo and Saiwo-Obnak. were the gods of the mountains. Thelc
were called upon in cafes of difficulty, and anlwered thole who
confulted them in dreams: they likewife helped the Laplander
on his journeys, and guarded him from precipices or accidents by
the way. Saiwo-Guelle was the Merquiy of the Laplanders: he
conducted the Ibuls to the lhades below.
The part of the earth v/heteJabme-AUo dwelt, was called
/
jSwc-
Aikko-Abimo, or the regions of Jabme-Aikko, or death. In thofc
regions the fouls of the departed, fumilhed with new bodies in lieu
of thofe lying in the grave, were in pofleffion of every enjoyment
and dignity which they held on earth, but in a more exalted degree.
Rota was the Lapland Plutb. After him the infernal regions
were named Rota Abimo. To thefc the fouls of bad men were
Vox,, II. U q banilhed,
REMARKS ^
i'
Ixudihed, ami here they remained without thofe hopes held out
to the ibjoumen.in the Jtd/me-Abimo', ya& mendoned of one day
^joying the fight of Radieu, and dwelling with him evermore in
the manfions of blifs. To Rota the Laplanders made application
as their lall reibrt, when their fiippUcations appeared not to have
been attended to by the other divinities.. They moreover believed
that all difea&s vrith which men or beafis were afflided,
eri^nated with lio/ai and that, as he* was equal in power with
the other gods, no relief could be expeded unlefs this malignant
deity was inclined to become propitious. ^
Thus we obferve among thb people, what I believe may be
found in every early ftage of fbciety, the acknowledgment of ieveral
Hmited and imperfed deities. Littlerefledion feemsneceftoiCoovirto
'U9 that pdytheifm mud have been the moft an-
^nt reti^on among mankind. What religion fo natural to confined,^
obfeure minds, as that which afetibes particular caufes
for health fn>d fieknefi, plenty and want, profperity and adverfity ?
They^oft eafily fuppoie that ilbrms and temped, peltilence and
fatpine come from powers; prolperous alTairs from the
contrary. To; them good and U1 appear uhrverfally intermingled
and confounded ; happinefi and mifery> wicluldnefi and benevbl6nce,
a}l ad^tast^ ^ttmded with difadvantages;
, In fuch a ilage of fociety, no paffions but the mdinary afiectipns
of human life cm 'Operate, - We may as well fuppofo that
tiv? Laphmders inhabited houfes and palaces b^ne caves and htits,
a8 :ti>at they ihould have had a belu^ in that perfod Being, who
has
^CONCERKINO imilND.
has heftossed oir^ on the whole frame ofnature^ rather than in
deities retaining human paiBons and appetites, together with corporeal
limbs and organs. The evident order of the univerfe, the
proper adjullment of all things, the defign prevalent throughout
the whole, are totally unknown to them, andbbjedb atbut winch
they are quite regardlefk This general plaii, to theit limited edtt*
ceptions, is full of contrariety, and appesns to be a conftant eombat
of oppofitc powers. To-day, ptofpCrity ; to-mortow, adverfity 5
naturally beget notions of protedion and punifhment ; of benevolent
and malignant deities.
Even when we have found an infant ^ple believing in one
fupreme God, yet have they not divefted themfelves of an opinion,
that all nature was full of other inviiible powers ; and tfae
vulgar of all nations have fuch giofi notions of tfie Deity^, fuppbfe
him fo flexible by prayers and entreaties, attribute to him fo
much caprice, abfurdity, and even enormity, as render him infinitely
below what we aferibe to a omn of fenfe and virtue.
One general remark may, T believe, be made of polytheifin;
that it has little tendency to influence its votaries with apprehenfjons,
tenors, or intdlerance. The gloom and darknefs which
almoft inodOfantly^h^g over Lapland, has not communicated to
the religion of its ittiutlntants cither that morofenefi or dgedtion,
which too much pervaded the perverfion of our mofl holy fyflem
of divine f^th and woifliip during the dark ages. Though the
Laplanders were habituated to facrifices, yet they appear not to
'Qqa... v: have
300 'general* kEMARks
^
A....>
*
.
har been iubjed to rigid ceremonies, or fcvere mortifications
;
though weaknefs and ignorance were prevalent, yet we find little
fear or melancholy.
Where focieties are not operated upon by the terrors of fuper-
Rition, there feems little probability that their natural religion
will be much tinRured with thofe frightful* apprehenfions of
eternal punilhments, which are repugnant to humanity and common
fen&.
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. jot
SECTION XXIV.
Of tiu SacrtfUet offered by the Laplanders to their Deities,
XT 7ITH refpeft to the deities, of which the attributes and
' ^ names are contained in the preceding fedlicfn, as well as
the rites and ceremonies oblervcd in their worfliip, the milTionary
Lcems remarks, that he found the Laplanders to vary in different
parts, and on that account has contented himlelf with fetting
down what he was able to afeertain from his own perfbnal obfervation,
or could derive from the beft information. Of his communications
upon thefe fnbjeAs,we hate endeavoured to' give out
readers a fhort abftrad. The whole may ferve to cftablifli a truth,
that man unenlightened by the truths of a divine revelation, is led
to pay his adoration to fenfible objeds, either as they promote his
happinefs or interrupt his quiet. Thus the fun, thunder, mountains,
lakes, the changes of the fcalbns, &c, become deities which
he llrives to propitiate by fuch ceremonies as he fuppofes in the
fimplicity of his mind ate moft likely to anfwer that purpofc ;
which ceremonies, os he is wholly intent upon the end he propofes
to himfelf to attain by means of them, appear to him very
ierious and important.
Rein-deer, fbeep, and now and then a feal, were the animals
chiefly
30?'
chiefly offered by the Laplanders to their gods. LVbatiqns.lome*
times were made with milk and whey ; and occallonally they allb
made offerings of cheefe.
The ceremonies ufed by them in the pcrformwce of this worihip,
were manifold and various> and all thought to bejndifpen*
fably neceffary. When they facrificed an animal, Ibmetimes the
whole w^ offered up ; at other times only a particular part. It
allb ibmetimes hapj^ned, that the animal was flain and the whole
eaten by themfelves, in which cafe the bones were made an offer*
ing to the deity of the jdace, and were left on the ^ot that the
deity might clothe them with fieih, and reftore life to the vidim.
Staves were fprinkled with the blood of the victim, and left on
the l^t ; and if the place of faqrifice was near a lake or river, the
blood was mingled with its waters, .
When they had chanced to take a bcar^ it w^ P^ttly dreflhd
and eaten, and the liver referved and confecrated.as a burnt-offering.
To conciliate the favour of their deities for their children, prefents
were made to the gods of different kinds. Whilfl the infant
was yet unborn, they lacrified.a flieep or deer; in themoment of
its birth a dog. was deffroyed in honour of the dei^, by buying it
alive ; and vrien the chilifwas at the breafh fome other animal
was killed for the fame purpofe.
Libations of brandy were made to the J!args or houfehdld go|l8,
whole abode was fuppofed to be under the fire place, 7be beifir
in^ b!f a cbw, if ftowihg from the firff time of her calving, was
' '
'oiered,''
, LAHjilb. J03
oiFered, b}r pouring it on the ground within the part of the tent
where their cattle were folded. On any change of habitation, an
offering was made of milk to conciliate the favour of the deity
who was the guardian of the place.
They alio had recourle to iacrifices upon occalion of any epidemic
diforder difcovering itlelf among them, or any diftemper
breaking out amongft their cattle. Such offerings were ufually
made when they went upon hunting or fifhin^parties, or on their
return from them if Aiccelsful. Homs, and other parts of the
rein* deer are found in places, fuppofcd to hare been depofited
there by the Laplanders who have experienced good fortune in the
chace, as offerings to the deity of the place.
Several mountains and a number of rocks were efteemed by
the Laplanders as facred, and held in great veneration. They are
diftinguilhed by the general name ofpajfe-roarck, which means holy
places, and were formerly places of facrifice and religious worihip.
It is to be oblerved, that thele rocks and mountains were remarkable
for the fingularity of their ihape, height, or figure, and confequently
excited ideas of awe and reverence in the minds of a
fimple uninformed people, inhabiting a country vilited but for a
Ihoit ifeafon by the chearful rays of th# fun, and buried during
the ^eatdi part of the year in fhow, with little other light than
what they derived from the pale beams of the moon, or the
brighter comifeations of an aurora borealis.
Two of thefe mountains are known at this di^ by the appellation
of the greater and the Fmne-lirh, given them by the
2 inhabitants
304 GENERAL REMARKS ,
#'
inhabitahts.of Norway ; names apparently derived from the fuperllltious
pratSiceS of the ancient inhabitants of the country ; though
from the difficulty of afeent thefe mounteins would feem to be
inednvenient for the purpofes of a place of worffiip. There could
be, therefore, no other inducement for making tihem the feat of
their devotions, than the religious horror which they impreffied on
the minds of a weak, fuperflitious people.
The veneration fcr thefe pq(Je-warck not yet entirely difappeared
: fome Laplanders vifit them yearly in their beft clothes,
and though they offer no frefli facrificcs, they are careful to leave
the bones of former offerings untouched. On no account will
they pitch their tents in the neighbourhood of thefe facred fpots,
left they Ihould difturb the deities with the cries of their children,
or other noifes. When they pafs them, they conduct themlelves
with the utmoft reverence : they would not attack a fox, a bear,
or any other animal, near thefe places ; and if a woman be in
their company, ihe is under the ncceffity of turning her head
afide, and covering her face with her hands.
The ordinary feafon with the Laplanders for offering up facri-
ces, was about the dole of the autumn, when they were killing
their fat 'cattle for the waiters ftore ; befides thefe, they ffiowed
their devotion upon extraordinary occafions, and as neceffity re*
quired*
No woman Was allbyred to have any concern in the preparation
or iolcmnization of thefe laaificcs; they were exelufivcly performed
by 9 privileged daft of .men amiohgft the Laplanders,
r
called
^
CONCEIVING LAPLAND. 3P5
called Noaaids* In this office of facrificing they difcovered great
dexterity, and on that account were dlftinguilhed by the Danilh
name of blodmander, or men of blood. They knew how to fcparate
and divide the different parts of the animal, according to the
nature of the facrifice, and the deity it was intended for. Upon
thcfe occafiohs they conffantly wore a particular habit.
Thofo ads of worfhip, occafioning a great redudion of their
flock of cattle, often brought the Laplanders to alituatiun of
mifciy and want: as the mountain Laplanders, when attacked
by the fmall-pox or the meades, with difficulty got over thefo
diforders, owing to the pores of their fkins being rendered impervious
by the dirt and fmoke in which they lived, they made
numerous facrihees of rein-deer during their illnefs, fometimes to
the number of twelve rein-deer to one perfon. l9ow thefe people,
obferving that the converts to chriftianity appeared to rid themfclves
of all complaints, by merely figning themfelves with a crofs,
were eafily difpofed to adopt that religion. But as the God of the
chriflians foemed t.o them only to hare provided for their happinefs
hereafter ^^ moreover, too mild and gracious to afflid
them with difeafes, .^y flill confidered it to be their intereft,
occalionally to continue their facrifices ^0 the gods of their forefothep,
in order to relieve themfelvra front ficknefs and the evils
of this prefont fbte ; and herein they feem to have refembled the
Samaritans mentioned in the New Teffament, who worfhipped
the God of Iffael, and the idols of the Gentiles at the fame time.
This in fome meafme acepunta for the Laplanders tving only fully
VoL. II. R r converted
jo6 . GENERA REMARKS
converted to ChrlfUamt^fo lately ; for it is certain that the truths
of this religion had been preached atnongft them as early as the
middle of the pinth century, there being Rill extant a refeript of
the Emperor Ludovicus Pius, who lived at that time, fur this
purpofe, wherein the Laplanders are exprefsly mentioned by the
name of Skrit Finni,
SECTION
CONCERNING LAPLAND. joy
SECTION XXV.
Of the Magic Art praSlifed hy the Laplanders : Runic t)nm,
Ganic Flies, Juoige, and Noaaid.
magic art is faid to have been introduced in the North
by Odin, who brought it with him from the Eiaft, and inftruded
the Finni ; which people becoming great proficients in
the art of direding the agency of fpirits, obtained the name in
theft countries of Finne-kurfl, that is to fay, the fcience of the
Fins. The early chronicles of Norway record the extraordinary
feats of magic performed by their kings Haldan and Gunner
;
how that the firft caufed a banquet to vanilh from before his
guefts, and that the laft, by his invifiblc agents, procured fuch in*
telligcnce of the ftcrct pradiccs of his enemies, as to enable him
to iruftrate all their defigns. They make mention likewift of
Eric Windus, a king of Sweden, who could change the wind
with a turn of his hat ; and of Siwald, another Swcdifli monarch,
who had ftven fons all equally Ikilful in the arts of magic.
It is unnecefiary to mention the great knowledge which the
female ftx have attained to in this ftience: there isicarcelya
perfon who has not heard of Lapland witches. A forccreis pro*
duced a number of infernal ipirits before Hadin, a king of Nor*
Rr2 way,
o8 GENEISAt i
*
yray, and another n^til-ICraka prepared a mcfs of pottage of
iadl admirable virtue, that it would have rendered his foh Bbllo
Mrife and eloquent, if, unfortunatdly for him, it had not been intercepted
and eaten up by his younger brother Eric, who thereby
obtained the benefit defigned for his elder brother, add afterwards
got the crown for himfelf. In fhort, there would- be no end of
reciting the various {lories which anbient writers have left of the
ma^cians, male as well as female, in paft times. Mr. Leems
therefore confines his narrative tO the prefeht ftate of the magic
art in Lapland. ' '
The vifiblc inflrument of ma^c, aS now prablifed in Lapland,
is the runk drtm
;
and the ihvifible agents employed in this arc
called ^afcJl'ies.,, The miffiohary fheWs the ufe made of each of
thefe, and ^ves fbme account of the Kouu/i, or tegular bred magician,
together with the juoige, ot fong of incantation ufed by
" him, and the method he takes to reftorc loll property to its right
bwher.
The runic drum, which may be confidcred as a compendium
of Lapland paganifm, has the appearance of the head of a com-
"^ rodh drum, the wooden frame of which is htfflg r6un<^ Writh brafs
rings fb clofe together, thal th firike and rattle upon the lead
' tduch'^ofthe uiffimmerit. Upon is dretched over
the drum cerifuri charalden afe paiiited, reprefenting the Radien,
oV Eapland Jup ofthe deities^ of whOni aii acicphid
is giveh iCA'^precedihg f(^i6n,^^^^
of aiuo^, W huhiher of forty-fiVc fynihols. ' On fomc
i' -
.
6 drums
, CONCERNING L4PLAND. ,399
drums more have been counted ; the ^oaaids, or magicians, npt
pcrfedly agreeing in this rcipedl in different parts of Lapland
:
they, however, all coincide in the principal or leading deities. The
runic drums are of the more value as they are of greater antiquity
;
and if they can be proved to have been delivered from father to
fon, in a long line of fucceeding magicians, they arc conlidered
above all price : they are prcfcrved with great care and fccrccy,
and are hidden from fight, except at the time they are ufed. A
woman dares not to approach the place where one of thefc drums
lies concealed, much lefs durft Ihe prefume to touch it.
Before a Laplander lets out upon a journey, or undertakes any
matter of moment, he confults his drum, which be does in the
following manner. He places a ring, which is ufed for this pur*
pofe only, upon the drum, and then ftriking upon it a fmart
ftroke with a fmall hammer made from a deers horn, the ring is
lhaken or driven over the furface from fide to fide, which, as it
touches certain figures of good or bad omen, he conceives the
better or worfe opinion of his fuccefs in what he is about to undertake.
As, for example, if the ring move according to the courfc
of the fun, he pronounces that he fliall fuccccd ; if contrarily to
the funs courfe, that he lhi#Tail in his enterprize, whatever it
be, of hunting, filhing, or the like. In the fame manner hejudges
of every event upon which .he is diippled to conlult this oracle.
Faniilies in general poffcfs luch a drum, to which they refer
for advice in the retircincnt of their habitation, confidering k as
their guide and dircdlor upon comm^ Qccauqns; but in matters
of
yo GENERAL REMARKS ,
of greater moment, fuch<>a$ itekneis, a mortality amongft the
cattle, or the like, they apply to privileged loothfayers or magi>
clans : thefc are called in the Lapland tongue NoaaiJs, and are regularly
educated in the art. Thefe men are completely initiated
by fre<pient interviews with the fpirits in Jahne-aim ; befidcs
which, they pretend to be in poffeffion of runic drums which
have defeended to them from anceftors famous in remote times
for their {kill in divination. The Noaaid obferves much the fame
method with that already deferibed, except that he makes ufc of
fomc previous ceremonies with a number ofvery frightful grimaces
and contortions, in which he is helped out by the immoderate quantity
he takes of brandy and tobacco during his operation. By the
ef^d of theie aids to infpiration, he at length becomes fo intoxicated^
t^t he falls into a deep fleep, which tlje {hinders by fuppofe
to be a trance. When he awakes he pretends that his foul
has been conveyed a'way to Come paffe-warck, or holy mountain,
which he mentions by name, and attempts to reveal his interwiew
and difcoqrfe with the deities. At the fame time he names a
&9riiice which muff be offered on a certain day, confilling, for the
moft part, of a well fed rein-deer; and this being complied with,
he encourages the hopes that the deity who is concerned will prove
favourable. The Noamds Injundion never fails to be obeyed;
and if the {kcirifice of a valuable rein-deer be not fuccecdcd by the
godds effeds which are b^ped for from it, the {inaple Laplander
(like fht^ poor unhappy people who run for a cure from one doctor
tfodthet, until they have expended the latl farthing of their
, money)
CONCERNING LAPLAND. SU
money) has recourib to 'another Noaaid, and another. Nov, as
every confultation is followed by a fat facrifice, at which the glut*
tonous foothfayer prefides as butcher and principal gueft, it happens
that the poor Laplander finds himlelf fuddenly reduced to
want, his flock of cattle being wafted in riotous fccnes of fuperftitious
infatuation.
The ganicJl'tes are evil fpirits entirely under the direftion of the
Noaaid, and ready at all times to execute his orders : they have
been delivered over to him by the Noaaid his father, who received
them from his, and fb on through a long fcrics of magicians.
Thcle ganic flies are invifiblc to all but the magician, who keeps
them fliut up in a box until he has occafion for their ftrviccs.
The jnotge, or long of incantation, is ufed by the Noaaid whilft
in the cxcrcifc of his magical fundlion. To fay it is fung, is to
give an impcrfedl idea of the magicians manner of delivering it,
which he does in the moft hideous kind of yelling that can be
conceived. It is alfo frequently employed by thofe who arc not
profefled magicians ; for the juoige is fuppofed to have the power
to drive away the wolf, and is confidcred as a proteflion for the
herd. Indeed, if the wolf be within hearing when they fingit,
it is no wonder that he fhould be frighted away by the noife.
The words of this long arc yeiy fimplc ; we here prefent them to
the reader, accompanied with an exafl tranflation
:
Kumpi don eidnak vahag lek daUkam.
Ik Ihjat kalka dam packeft orrot
'
Mutfo
plp;iLM remarks
Mutto^daft erit daakkaa
Mailme kiaetizhjai mannat,
la don Mkak dai
Fazhjatallah, dachekejetzhja lakai hxwanct.
Accuried wolf! far hence away!
Make in thefe woods no longer (lay
:
Fly hence ! and feek earths utmoil bounds,
Or perilh by the hunters wounds.
The method taken by the Noaaid to recover ftolcn goods is no
more than this. He comes into the tent where he has reafbn to
fulped the thief is to be found, and pouring a quantity of brandy
into a diih, which then refledb the features of any perlbn looking
into it, he makes* a number of grimaces over it, and appears to
confider it with very great attention. After fome length of time
employed in this way, he takes the fufpeded Laplander afide,
charges him with the fal;, declares that he faw his face plainly
figured to him in the difh, and threatens to let lodfe a fwarm of
pnic flies upon him, who ihall torment him until he makes ref*
titution. Thus does the magician work upon the fears and ap*
preheniions of the fufpeded perfbn, who, if he be the real thief,
never faik to replace whatever he has flolen with the fame lecrecy
as he took it away.
' The egregious folly of believing that certain perlbns were endowed
with fupematural power, and that they were aflifted by
inviflblc 0|irit8,,; was univvfai ibon af^ the eflablifhment of
/ir Chtiftianity,
t
Qiriftianity, add began not to be ^ncrally difcreditcd till 'the
fixtecnth century. In England we Oven find witchcraft fiipported
by royal authority : by James In countenanced by the great Lord
Bacon. The belief in Ipirits, not left abfurcl, even the vigorous
mind of Dr. Johnfon.was not exempt firom. But theft ridiculous
mifthievous, and cruel delufions, are happily banilhed
almoft from the habitations qf the moft ignorant, and wc already
begin to wonder at the credulity of our anceftors.
VoL. n. Ss SECTION
3*4 GENEIUL IPIMAUKS
SECTION XXVI.
.
Of the fireng Attachment of the Laplanders to their native
' Country.
^I
''HE miiBoaaiy Lccms, on a review of the {late and condition
of the Laplanders, acknowledges, that their fituation is incxprcffibly
hard and full of trouble
: yet he oblcrvcs that being
enured to this kind of life from their early years, their attachment
to their native country is greater than that of nations who live in
the enjoyment of every convenience and comfort ; in proof of
which, he gives an account of a commiflion which he received in
a perfonal interview from his Daniih Majefty, Chriftian VI. to
lend a young Laplander to his court at Copenhagen, and the extreme
difficulty he found in executing it.: This inter\'iew being
fo; im|rartant.a pa0ag|:: in the miffionaiys own life, he relates it
with great circumflantiality. It was an intereftiug period; for
the .time of his being pre:^nted to his m^cHy very nearly coincided
wiiffi that of his taking unto, himfclf a wife.
In the beginning he had gone to Aallund in the
province of Snnd-^oe?!^ AIe^Rubergia : it wasjuil three weeks
af^r bis marriage, prefented to the king by Admiral
- ^ m^^, who had received a very ^vourable
j account
COkCliLimG LAPLAND. ps
account of his labours, took down his name in his memorandum
book, and gave him a promife of future preferment in the church,
which, in December, next year, he faithfully fulfilled, by promot- .
ing him, after being ten years a miffionary in Lapland, to the rcctorfhip
of the vacant parifh of Augwaldfnefs, in the diocelc of
Chriftianfand*.
The king, in his progrefs through Norway, in the fummer of
1733, was detained for fbme time in the harbour of Aalfund by
ftrefs of weather. He fent for Mr. Leems, and put a number of
queftions to him concerning the flate of the Laplanders, the commerce
of Finmark, the fuccefs of the chriftian million in thofc
parts, and other matters : to which queftions the miffionary replied
according to the beft of his ability and information, with all
due reverence to his majeftys perfon. At laft the king gave him
a commiffion to get fome young man among the Laplanders, and
to fend him to Copenhagen to him as foon as poffible.
But who, fays the miffiotiary, could believe it poffible that there
fliould be any one who would rejeft an offer that promifed fo defirablc
and fplendid a-condition of life ? Iftt this was really the
cafe. Application was made to' numbers of individuals among
the Lapland youth to go to court, where they would be kindly
received and taken care of by the king-but in vain. At length,
however, a young ihan, called Peter Nicolas Korfnaes, was prevailed
6n to fuftcr himftlf to be taken on board of fhip to Copenhagen,
though riot without very great difficulty. This Nicolas
had nothitig remarkable to rccomthend him, eithet in his ftature
S s 2 or
3i tofeRAt^^ARKS
^
or Igure. There were fevcral youths of more advantageous appearance
whom the raiffionary wifhed very, much to have fent to
court in preference to Nicolas Korfnaes : but they were not to
be induced to quit Lapland by any argument or pvomife. There
was particularly one of the bay of Alten, of uncommon ftature as
well as comelinefs for a Laplander, whom the millionary preyed
very much to go to the king, and his importunities and promile
of the royal proteSion and favour would, he lays, have fucceeded,
hut for the intervention of the young man's mother. This woman,
who was then in a ftate of pregnancy, cah^ to the miffionary
and told him, that the curfe of God, as well as her's, would
light on his head, if he Ihould tear from her her dear and only
Ion, and if any accident Ihould happen to her, whofe time of delivery
drew nigh, in confequence of the grief and fonow Ihe muft
fulFer from that ad of his. The miffionaiy after this defilled from
all farther perfuafion.
When the young Laplander arrived at Copenhagen, he was
treated with all poffible attention and kindnels, being handlbmely
dreffied, and well entoMained ; all which things Mr. Lcems dcferibes
minutely : but in the autumn he was taken ill, and languilhed
till the end of the year, when he died. The miffionary
does not helitate to aferibe his death to the fudden change of air
and manner of livingj and quotes the maxim, that ail fudden
** changes are dangerous. The body of the youth was interred
in a very folemn and honourable manner, and the line dothes in
which he bad been attired by his majeHy, were fent for fbme fmall
eotifolidibn to his forrowfffi parents.
CON^ll^G UPUND. 317
At the fame\iinc that Nicolas was fent to Copenhagen, another
Lapland boy, called Peter Jonas, who lived as a domeftic with
Mr. Leems, was induced, by the promile of many>good things,
and not lei^ it may be preliimed, by the example of the youth
who allowed himfelf to be taken to Copenhagen, to go with Admiral
Rofcnpalm, with the intention of becoming one of his Teamen.
As the lad did not want capacity, the admiral had him
inltru<fled in writing and arithmetic, and fent him on board a
Danilh Eaft Indiaman, that he might learn the art of navigation.
He made one voyage to India, but died Cooa after his return to
Copenhagen.
SECTION
3i 8 OEKptAL REMARKS
SECTION XXVII.
Some Obfervatiom relative to the Climate and Natural Uifiory of
taplatid.
materials which I have collc<ftcd on the fubjeft of Lap-
land, are fb numerous and of lb various a nature, that I
might have confiderably increafed the bulk of this work if I had
chofcn to incorporate in it every thing I polTefs. But I lliould
perhaps have abufcd the patience of the reader, if I had extended
my remarks any ' farther than I have already done. I think it,
therefore, better to keep back what remains, and to produce it at
fome future period, if a fufficient degree of approbation encourage
me to fuch an undertaking. I cannot, however, at prefent take
my leave without communicating the following table, as an authentic
piece of information, which may afford fome light refped;-
ing the climate of thofe northern diftrids, through which I have
carried the reader in the foregoing pages. The place to which it
refers' is Utsjocii, upon the river Tana, inLappmark, fituated under
6q degrees 53 minutes north latitude; and perhaps no obfervations
of the kind have ever been made farther to the northward.
Tl^is table was given me by Mr. Julin, who had fuggefted the
id^ ofmaking finniar remarks to the Rev. Mr. CaRiein (brother
. 8 of
^^
CONGfiRNBIG LAPLAND. 319
of the Caftrcitjof Kcmi, whom wc have mentioned before) ;*and
the latter gentleman, being fond of natural hiftory, and acquainted
with its principles, was well able to fatisfy the curiofity of Mr.
Julin.
Ohjervations made in the Part/h of Vtsjdcli, in Lappmarh, 69 5 S'
> North Latitude, in the Years 1 795 and 1 797,
By Samuel Castrein :
ColleSied and arranged hy J. Julin, of Uleahorg.
1 . Meteorological Obfervations.
1795 . 1797.
The funs half diik feen above the horizon .Ian. 21. Jan. 21.
Firft rain fell ~ Apr. 30, May 5,
The ice difappeared on the river Tana June 3. June 5.
The lakes were free from ice June 28
Night-frofts began ^

July 15.
The rivers froze - Oct. 12. Oct. 18.
The lakes froze Oct. 20. Oct. 25.
The ground covered with foow Nov. 3.
The fun under the horizon Nov. 20. Nov. 18.
2. Calendarium Fauna Utsjokenfs..
The following birds arrived r 1795 . 'I 797.
Emberiza nivalis Apr. 4. Apr. 11 .
Falco chryfaetos Apr. 4. Apr. 11.
Anas
320 ^ GENERAL REMARKS
f
%
l/0. i;o7.
Anas cygnus Apr, 11 . Apr. 4 .
Motacilla alba -i,- May 6. May 9.
Mcrgus mcrganfor May 6. May 10.
Anas elangula May 6. May iT.
Cofvus cornix r May 18.
Colymbus ar^icus ^ May 20. May 24.
Frin^ila caelebs
-
May 25.
Motacilla flava .

May 20. June 3.

Alca Alee May 29. May 30.
Scolopax glottis May 29. June 4.
Cuculus canorus, lings
-
May 30. June 2.
Sterna hirundo June 2. June 0.
Hirundines June 2. June 6.
3. Cakndarium Flora Vtsjohnfis,
The following plants flowered
:
170- 1797.
Draba Alpina June 23. June 1
7
.
Rubus chamsemorus, et ardlicus June 24.

Arbutiu uva urli, ct Alpina Jnne 25; June 17.
Calflia paluflris
^ June 80. June 28.
Comus fuecicas 5
Trollius EuropSMis July 4.
-
Vi(^ biflora > July
Jefly 6. June 29-
Ailine
CONCERNING LAPLAND.
iro5.
.
3J
i7g7.
Alfine media
^ July 10. July 9,
Andromeda caerulc%, 5
^Pedicularls Lapponicus -r- July 10.
Vaccinia orpnia Suec. July 15. July 7 .
Polygonum viviparum

July ll July 8.
Rumex acetofclla, ct digynus July 11 . July 7 .
Diapenfia Lapponica July 1
1
. July 10.
Ranunculus acris
2 July f2. July 12.
Sedum paluftre 3
Stellaria graminea
^ July 14. July 13.
Leontodon Taraxacum 5
Myofotis fcorploides
Jijty 1
7
.
C.
Prunus Padus J * July 20.
Saxifraga ftcllaris
Anthericum calyculatum 1
July 23. July 17 .
Lychnis Alpina
^
Polemoniuin caeruleum 5
July 27 . July 13.
Geranium (ylvatiiputn^ et Alpinum
Geranium iylvaticum, ct pratenfe 1
July 28. July 20.
Mcnyanthcs trifoliata July 29, July 2.5.
Paris (Juadrifblia k .
July 30. July 18.
Carbpanula rotupdifolia 5
Galium uligin^i^un^ ct borcale / Aug. 0. Aug. 5 .
Sorbus aucuparia y
Rhinanthus crifta galli J
Aug. 7. Aug. l O.
foi. 11. Tt ParnafGa
322 GENERAL REMARKS, &c.
Pamaffia paluftris
^
Euphralla officinalis J
Leontodon autumnale
Erica vulgaris
-
The birch (betul alba) iheds its leaves
i;0S. i;o;.
Aug. 22.
Aug. 22. Aug. 2(1%
Sept. 1
6
, Sept. 10.
Sept. 2g. Sept 25.
APPENDIX.
CONTAINXNO,
I. 'Specimens of Finland and Lapland Mtifc,
II. A Diary of the Author's Journey from Stockholm to Dle&borg i
thence to the North Cafe : and back again.

:it5 Appendix.
Runa of the Finlanders.
*
/I
Variation
.
|aj Having heard this Melody different vays,! hero gi\t the
'Variations as I heard them.
NJB.l am indebted to Mr 8chwenke,Mnfic Maftcr of Hamhvr^,
for the Bafs of all the folloiring> l\ines,fome of which
are very in^enionfly and fcientifically let.
VoL.n, Sa
. ; -V-' - -

T
This is the tune of a Dante of Finlanders played upon
55?; ^ c^pifs of Notes,It is Inter
eftltii*' tnjltee-hw'the^''caa^ej^^

fIttUniieri! Daiic^ it the Cottag;e on the Banks f *

the River lieivaniemi,played hy ahliiid Fidler.
rfrrrr
350
|aj It U to obferved in this Tune,that the whole of the firft
part^a^d four Bari of the fecond,are within the compafs of the
five Not^s of the Harpv *hat the three laft are tii^ Notes out of
the coxnpafsp.he Violin,or the introduction of the lddle,infpiredthis
licence. It is atimidftep out of their limited circle,and
for thofe who are fon4j;of ittliwite enquiries
may ihew holf introBu^ of a new liiftrulaihtjefe -
ted than the/ijlrft,lntroductsnew ideas, ani ch^^gea^^% degi^is
the character of the ancient Mude* Ihe fecohd part has the fault
of having an unequal iiumhcr pf Bars jf) which is a licence in
the ttCuai mod oif coqipolNioj^Wtllilih
not to be fo ftiictly attended
mane.

TTTTT
1
.
^aj Thin is another Hailing Dance, and fervea for the fame
putjiof^ of dancmg; although not fo fine as the preceding, it
* bears a peculiar manner
.
VoL,il. Yy
|aj This Thne has very little ori^iidity>aad etcept its hV<
Ingr each part of fix Bars.inftead of ei^tiiihioh is moi4 common,
it nii^t.he a tolerable Ptolonaife. As it ftandsiths fifth
and fixih fiars,hich form the Gadehceiof file firft part, are
too fndden and nnnataral.
inhofpitable regions, It is impofsible to tell jE)very body ac
ip^nted with fee that it ia neither wild nor odd
Chttoaiglh to be hone beyond the polar Circle. It la regular In
its ;Cladieiioeiytafy ai^d nainral in iti'tranfitioeis; iad migh^
hoAmg^ittihe Btreeta ofItaly i^d tdtenibtinjttltAli^^
3.
Thit Tune; is a Soi^.lnd bas a very good effect when fung ,
by many.becaufeitis fufeeptible of accords and accompani . .
ments. It is fo simple that we may think it national,althou^.
it wants the characteristic Symphony ofwUd Music
.
licence to the
,i;vv.v.
The following daiI|^o^||ofmyjourney
^
chiefly intended
world. Such information^_ though of itillf untiitcrcftin^ I k^w
from experience
circumftanc69. ItJ brii^ thetas 'JJrCTteMfty with the
objefts they are to encounter, keeps their attention more vigilant,,
p^on'toA "
-iC <
t -^c di^ne^ wl'ich lo
Warn td'bhi^^^fe dfttbbi^^
i *%,#**
tJforty^Sr
gree of the equator therefore oho Svre^ftftt'njile cqntws nearly
Vox.. II. ^ Zx ;
feven
338
*
,
-e
fetfcn ngU(h. The miles of Norway are ftill larger than thole
of Sweden, and one is about equal to eight or nine Engliih.
In the column of the expences it may perhaps occur, that
they arc not fb great as might have been lihagined from what
was laid in the firft chapter ; but the difference of travelling is
to be taken into conflderation. There we fpoke of a gentleman
travelling in his own carriage, and in fummer ; whereas the Diary
refers to the winter time, when the chcapell of all conveyances,
viz. the fledges, arc in ufe. A Swedifli fkilling is rather more
th|p an Engliih penny ; and forty-eight fkillings make a riz-dollar,
which is about equal to four ihillings and fix-pence Englilli.
The expences are calculated for a Angle gentleman who wants
two fledges, one for himfelf, and one for his fervant and luggage,
with an attendant to each, vvho is to take back the fledges and
horle. BeAdcs this, he mull unavoidably have a courier, whom
he may fend on before him to befpeak horfes ; for the horfes are
fometimes brought- together from different houles that may be
three or four miles diflant from one another ; and if they were
not ordered before hand, a very great lofs of time would be occaAoiied
by conftantly waiting for them : fuch an avant courier
is, in Swedifh, calledJhrbad. The attendants are in general peafants.
It is not abfolutcly required to pay thefe people any thing
^Acliif the hire of the fledges' and horfes; but it is cuflomaiy
7 to
STOCp^JJVlyTO ULEABORG. 3J9
to prefent them with a gratuity, as is done with regard to ,thc
poRboys and drivers of coaches in England.
When I fpeak of a night's lodging at the peafants houfes, or
common Rages, it^s to be underftopd that you are furailhed with
a bed, confining of a mattrcfs, blankets, and a cover made of calf
or lamb'fkins : there are no (heets to be had. Fuel and firing is
in great plenty every where.
Sockliolm
340 tJOUtoS FROM
State o^tke <
Weather.
Thermometer
of Cehius.*
Stages^between Stockholm,
and Uleaborg, through
Finland.
Arrival and
Departure.
Stockholm.
Euflad.
Oftbyi
Set off at 7
o'clock in the]
morning^ ,
March i stb
[The wcalher]
dark agd
gloomy.
iTher. S o.-f-l
A thaw
labout noon;
Expences in
Swcdiih Money.
3 horfes
2 (ledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 (ledges
3 men
[ftlK-d. Skil.
0 42
04
09
10
04
09
Hall. , .
.
KUIaode.
Krakdad.
Swamberga.
,Toftingc. .
.
3 horfes
2 (ledges
3 men
0 24
04
09
3 horfes
2 (ledges
3 men
0 27
O4
O9
3 horfes
2 (ledges
3 men
0 24
O4
09
3 horfw

2 (ledges
3 men
0 24
04
09
15 Arrived at
midnight
;
departed at
the very beginning
of
March ig.
About midnight.
6 Q.
3 borto
2 (l^gesi
3 men
0 39
O4
09
' * 1 ihall henceforth exprefo the forenoon by a. and the afternoon byp. iw.
B. This figh a fignihei below the freezing point; s above it.
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORG.
' LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
You go out of Sfocikolm by the north gate
;
paTs through Haga, crofa
the lake upon the ice in the ihiddle of the kings gardens. You
come very near Ulrilkdal, a feat of the queen dowager, but leave it.
on the left.
Eujiai is only a fingle peafants houfe.-nrTbe country is varied with
little hills, that are here and there covered with wood, and well culti>
vated; tbefe prefent in fumroer fomc pleaftng landfcapes.
Ofihy \i a fmall hamlet, with about four or five peafants boufes, where
the traveller may in feme degree be accommodated.The road from
thence is hilly.
Hall, Here you may get a nights lodging, fuch as it is.
Killande is a hamlet of four or live honfes : no accommodation for
travellers.
Krakftad, a (ingle pealants houfe; qo accommodation.
Swdmherga, a peafants houfe, (ituated upon the banks of the .lake
Jerven, which is Currounded with a wood of fir-trees : this fituation
niuft be pleafant in the fummer feafon.
i two or three peafants houfes, not calculated to receive :9ran-
GrUMiama
JOURNEY FROM
Sht^ bawf^n Stockholm
and Uleaborg though
Finland.
MUSS
Arrival and
Departure.
Sute of the
Wc^ither.
Thermometer
of CeliiuB.
Kxpenceg in
Swediih Money.
, liis.d. 8ktl.
Griflehuno. i March IQ. 5Q 3 horfes 0 X8
Air. 1 a. m. on tbe fea. .2 Hedges 0 4
Dep. 0 a. m. 7"^ 3 xnen : 0 9*
e
.V
WindS.W.
Siomilflrnr. 5

Arr. 5 p. xn. 6 horfes 2 24

4 fledges 0 16
:>r,
. 6 men 0 24
Ekcro* 2 Arr. 7i p. m. 3*0 3 horTes 1 0
2 fledges 0 4
3 men 0 9
f
Frebbenby. H Arr. 9 p. m. 3 horfes 0 30
Departed 2 fledges 0 4
March 20tb 3 men 0 9
7 a. in.
T?.ntnrVv> li
t 3 horfes 0 30
2 fledges 0 4
3 men 0 9
H
i'f.-
3 horfes 0 30
2 fledges 0 4
3 men 0 9
* ihort 4 two (kiUiogi might he enough [>r each diiver; hut itie
hif^y wotth ^h^
; gTOCmOLM TO ULEABORG. 34J
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Gr(/lehamn is the poft-houfe (a brick building) where the paflcngcrs
that travel this way to go to Finland, either in Winter or fummer,
generally flop : the road lies acrofs the fca. In fiimmer there are
always pod-boats ready to convey the travellers ; and in winter, when
theicc is drong enough to bcar,fledgcs*and horfes arc here furnifhed.
It is to be obfeived, that at this place you are obliged to take double
the number of horfes to what you had before : tl)ere is a telegraph
at Griflehamn.
SipiUJkar is a rock, or fniall illand, the firft of the kind you meet in
croffing the fea. There is a telegraphy which qorrefponds with the
one at Griflehamn,
Ekero is another of that clufler of iflands, known under the name of
Aland, This ifland is of confidcrablc extent; it confifts of fixty
hemman^ let to different families. Hemnan means ,an cflate of land
belonging to the crown, and farmed by the peafants; there is a
church, fifl:y windmills, a great quantity of wood and corn,
Frehhenhy coniifts of ouly two hbufes ; one defined for travellers, and
the other inhabited by peaiants. . ,
*
Etikarly ; a few houfes without any accommodations for paflengers.
The country is hilly, and confequently the road uneven.
liara^j^ifk C^all village, (ituated on an eminence^ and confpicuous by
ibme windmills. The way Kes clofe by the caftle of Caftelholmen,
famous for having been the priibn of Eric XIV. It is bailt upon a
rock, it the extremity of a neck of land 0at juts put into the fea* : ;
Skorpa.s
344 '
f.
;
Stages between Stoekholm
and Uleaborg through
Finland. . ,
Swedilh
Miles.
Arrival and
Departare.
State of the
Weather.
Therniiometer
..of Ccliius.
March 20.
Arr. noon.
ITie vreathw
darkand
gloomy, yet
not foggy
:
a thaw.
Arrived at
midnight.
Staid March
21 and 22.
Dep. March
23,9 a.m.
The weather
creared.up^
withB
ofH^Qflom
l2*to7S
7"q
9^9,
aa.
.:.
Espeoccsin
Swediih Money,
Skorpas
.
Vergata
Kumlinge
Bran40.
Variala

Helfipg
.
HiOKMB.
LaiUi.
li
3l
H
ai
3 boifea
2 fledges]
3 men
|ft{iud. fkiU
0 30
04
00
li
3 horfcs
1 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men i
./
3 horfes
2 fledges
amen
3 Kbrfes
2 fledj^s
3 meii
3 hoifes
liled^
3 hoHb
3 iledg^
3 men
3 h<Si^
2 fledgesj
3 men
0 18
04
09
1 30
08
0 12
1 12
06
09
1 12
06
00
I0
04
09
0 36
04
09
0 3d
04
09
* > LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
4 "'1*
. . ..
-
SkStfas conflib of three or four hbufes, in which the peafants (cem to
live very comfortably. There is af(o a fmall building for the ufe of
travellers,*whcrc they may be lodged and entertained.
Vergaia\ a Angle houfe upon a little ifland, without accommodation for
paffengers. '
KmVmga \ a Angle houfe upon a fmall iAand, in which paflTengera may
be accommodated with a lodging. v ^
Brando^ another fmall lAand, but without any fort of accommodation
for travellers except horfes, which maybe had of the peafant; but
you muA proceed as far as Vhrfala to dbtain a lodging.
Varjala likewife a, fmall iAand. There are two rooms in the peafants
houfe defti^ of travellers. The peafants fcerti
to' live there pretty well ; they can. giv^ potatoes, butter, milk
and beer;., .
Helfingi a pcafants boufc, with an apartment for flrangers. Here the
Swedifli language begins to ccafe, and is Replaced by the Finpiffi.
A|mQ(i the whole of the road goes through pinb and Ar-woods : the
country is flat;

iftwoix; room for trav^ers, whiej^bcidg very fmall> cem^

'
.S' ;
/
;V
'
pwfaptsM paflengefs;
VbiS II. ^
. /.r/ 3 A\ .\-,Niemcnkyla'
546
Stogei between Stocknolm
and Dleaborr thtougb
Finland*
Swediih
Mllef.
Arrival and
Departure.
State of the
Weather.
Thernnometer
of Ce]fitt9.
Expences in
Swediih Money.
: ftia^ Ikn.
I^iernehkyla..*/..
.TV
* ta M^ch i3.
';
ai^hoTfe* 0 37
3 fledges 0 4
3 men ' 0 9
. .... . .
.
'14'
3 horfes 0 36
V
2 fledges 0 4
'
09
'
If''' Ait. 10 p. m. 8S 3 horfes lEH
Dop. March March 2 fledges 0 4
26, 1 p. ni. pa. m. $"5 3; men 0 9
0001?. 8*q
,
1
midnt. 10** gN.B.you
Mi|rch 25, j^yat this
i.
' ' mom. lte four
March'96>' ikillmore
1 piiri. S^ Q for the
Some fiiow borfes.
fell.
^fikvln. - 2 " 3 bor(eS'^ 1 1*2
; " V : 3 fledges D 4
09
k^you
|yfwtlie
horfes as
:

ufoidk
--i ^ y- '
If
. * e f ^ a A Iwo'' % 30
: -v4.;A V \ A 0 4
:A-f8eilfe> pfl ' 9
$tO(3B0^W9 WE4B0RG. ' 347
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
; -
. . .. ; .

Ntmenkyla, The reader will obferve with what nicety the Swedijfh mil
are fufadiviclcd. In France^ England^ and other countries, the tra*
vclIerV njoney generally levels the fradlipns, but it is not fo in Sweden.
There is but one apartment for paflengers in the peafants houfc at
this place.
HnmikaJar Here one may lodge pretty comfortably. The houfe affords
two bed rooms, and a fitting room. Proceeding from this place it is
always neceflary to have an interpretey of the Finnifh tongue, becaufe
the people dP not fpeak Swedifh.
Aho is the capital of Finland*, T^ere js the caflle of Abo-hus, a fme
cathedral, a untverfity,:'a library: it is the relidence of an admiral, a
governor, ahd a bifhop* * A quarter of a mile (Swedifh) frofh the town
you pafs by the churth of St. Mary, which is (aid to be very ancient,
and to have fervpd as ^thednd before the foundation of the city.
The government pf Abo has allowed ^e peafants to raife the price
of poilingHti cPhfoquencc of foimc particular duty.
for paflengers. The whole way is by
land V there are neither lakes nor rivers ; and when the road is unlit
for the' fledges going, travelling here becomes very irkfome.
for travellers. We here law the people ufe the
fir-biiinches of flraw^ to m^c Uttefs for the cowiaifd
> pr^urhuiaotire. .1
^ aA 2 Muflan^
34 JG]0|S^
Stages bftweeni StiockU.6lA)t
ancl Uleaborg though'
Finiand;. - ^
Arrival and
Departure.
State of the
Weather,
^^hermorneter
Jdf Gel^u?,
Expences in
Swediih Money.
EiK d. Skil.
Mufldnoja *
.
; . . . > , . H . Mar^h 5*
i;, . 3 horfes O 30
:. ... ...
.. >;.
' 2 Hedges O 4
3 men O 9
Oripaa *14 Arr, lip. iji. 5 O 3 hories 0 33
Departed
^ Te .
2 fledges 0 4
March 27 , 3 men 0 9
9 a. m. iro
A clear Iky.
ViTiftzanoja. . . . . . * 1 < 3 horles 0 24

i
2 fledges 0 4
3 men o 9
Sa)li)aPellarL ..... H 3 horfes 0 30
2 fledges 0 4
3 men O 9
Mamala.
i
If---''
.
'i
About udon 3 hories 0 45
3 inches of 2 fledges 0 4
fndw fell. 3 men 0 9
Kiyifiicinv ' 1* 'V 3 horfes 0 33
2 fledges 0 4
e 3 men o 9
Soiiiila ^ v . V 3 horfes 0 27
2 fledges 0 4
.3 men 0 9
STOCHEiOtM TO 345
LOCAL observations.
Miifianoja. Here is a finall feparate houfc for the reception of travcllcrsi
Oripaa. No lodging for flrangers. At a little diflance from this plpce
is the (burce of the river Aurajoki. The road is very (luc, and goes
through the middle of a pine-wood*
JFirtzanojay a wretphed place belonging to the parith of LofmijoiS, and
the diftri (3 BiSrneborg or Satekunda. The road fiill proceeds through
woods of very old pine-trees,
SaUila-Pdtari. One may here ge^ fome kind of lodging, . The. peafanls
arc flout and handfoinc people. You have to crbfs the Loiina,*
Pungalaifis^ and the Lembou or Ills/ ull of them fmall rivers that
empty thcinfelvcs into the river Cumo,
Mantala. Here is a feparate^
Khiniem, No lodging for, flrangers. The river Cumo appears very
confiderablp, and the noife of its current is heard under the ice,
Soinila, a fmaJI hamlet without any accommodation for travellers. Yoa
pafs ovvr a wemden bridge about two hundred paces, or four hundred
fert long, which ia called Wamajkojki Bro. The Hver formi bcih a
ibrt of cataract, which (alls down with a great roering : in the Finnith
lanjguage a c^ara^ is celled kojki. What aj^pears. contrary to all
rule is, that the bridge m .built in the iftape W a crcfccnt or halftnpon,
with the etirveturp^
Heinoia
iomtm
.,
t_
Stages Stockholm
Ir'Ifcdv' . i;.
State of the
Weather.
* J- 1 11 - *a j r 1 , . _
Expencesm
EBBWHIThermometer Swediih Money. mi of Callus.
Heihoi*..
.
47.
1., . .
'

- Tficliioods B^horfes
Ria.ii. kiU
042
di(perfedby i fliedKee 0 4
1
the wind. 3 men 0 9
Ait. 10 p. m. 9*C
a.
,
Departed
March 28,
9P*n>* 16 Q
A very clear
fty.
Wuor|tHi or Haga. 3 horfes
.
ij 0 36
2 fledges 0 4
3 men 0 9
Hertuala.
.
ii,> 3 horfes 0 30
- . 2iilc^;es 0 4
; 3 ineri :
,
09
Yirvcnlcvlcl' .
*
Air. 5 p. ni.
Staid March Mareb 09. j
3 horfra
Blted^s
1 o VI fV44f>T#V# # 9 # #
V
^9r ^pl^rilcy>
,m^.lOo
3 meii f 9 9
noon 8*
i
.J 30, March 30.
Snow about
noon. Tber.
the^ole
day at S^ g
J:;;'
31, ; MaiVhSl.
The air dark.
Therra. the
whole ^ylat
Departed
April 1,
9&m. SfTllHrilll
.STOCI^Ol.M; TP KLEW . $51
LbjgAL OBSEkVATlONS.
Weimis. Here is 9 roomibr paflengersrwith three beds (n it : the mf
lies scrofs the ice.
'
"
U'uorkis. The hoofe at this place is unfit for the receptiph of travel*
lers : it is one of thofe FinlandiiJI cottages which, if I am not miftaken,
are called putcha. They have no chimney, but the fmokegoes
out oftbe windows, which are without glaf8,and remain always open,
even in thc.feverefi weather. Wood is not fcarce in this country.
flertuaki No lodging foi; travellers. A quarter of .a^Swedifh mile tp
the right, before you oome tp Yervenkyle, you will fee the road that
Icadsto the cafcade of Kyro.
Yervenkylt. Two or4h)ree pCafanjps, bqufes, with a little cottage to ro>
cdve dmiigers : the' latter (toly c of one room, with two beds
and a (love. The peafant of this cottage is a good bohdH creature,
and feems to Ij'M with tolerable eafe. Yervenkyle is not the (Iraigbteft
way to go to Wa^jtqjt.tga made this circuit, in order to fee the cafcade
of Kyro. :
JOURJIEY FROM
A
Stages bttween Stockholm
and Uleaborg, through
Finland,
Swedi(h
tbiles.
Arrival ami
Dejjariure,
State of the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Cellius.
0
""
Expences in
Swedifli Monejr, .
'

Kix-d. Skil.
Riala. ^., 2 April l. 3 borfes 1 0
2 fledges 0 4
.3 men 0.9
Palkana*kuin. ...... H t
'3 horfes J 3
2 fledges 0 4
3 men 0 9
Kuifvvais. n 3 horfes 1 15
i
2 fledges
3 men

04
09
Koiku^ . A
<
.2i 3 horfes
1
1 12
2 fledges 0 4
3 men 0 9
Lamba., a Arr, 1 Ip. m. 10 Q a horfes 1 0
m 2 fledges 0 4
April 2,
G a, m. 1 5 9
3 men
t
09
Rdinicka. ; .- 2i ,
A*
3 bdrfes 1 18
c 2 fledges 0 4

3 men . 0 9
STOqdlOtSl to ULEiBORG.
LOCAL OBSERyATlONS,
Aia/a
:
a houfe in the famous wood 6f Kyrb* The accommodations arc
pretty good : the road is conftantly among the woods ; we faw foxes.

Pajkana-kaifi, Strangers may get a lodging here. The road goes through
the wood, and for the laft quarter of a mile (Swed.) over the ice of a
fmali lake.
Kttlfwais. Here is fome fort of lodging for ftrangers. I'he road conflantly
among the woods, where you now and then will meet with a little
lake. The peafants do not follow^the main road in thefe woods, but
keep the ftraighteft line pofUble; and in order not to mifs their way,
the trees that you ought to pafs have been marked with a hatchet.
This is the fame mode of travelling as is adopted in the woods of
America.
Kojhta, No lodging for ftrangers. We pafled a little river, the ice of
which cracked Under our fledges, and threatened to break every moment.
LambUj pronouticed LamhS. There il a^gr^at room with three beds for
travellers^ V
Reimcka* In this houfo they gave us a kind of very coarfe chcele,
which they roaft by the fire in the fame manner 'as they toaft the
chcefe in England. The people are of a very hofpitable difpofition.
We proceeded for two miles over the ice, which in fome places is fo
clear and tranfparent, that we could fee the floncs and fiflies at the
bottom.
VoL, IL 3 B Talvizic
354 jeURNEY FROM
Stages between Stockhohn]
. and Ulcaborg though
Finhind,
SwedliJr
State ot the
Arrival and Weather.
Mdes. Departure. Thermometer
of Celfiiis.
31
'31
li
H
April 2. A thaw
about noon.
i
Arr. ibp. m. 5** 0
Staid April 3,
Aprils and
4
Q a. m. 3 O
At poon a
1
thaw.
April 4,
Departed morn. 6 o
April 5, noon 4 0
8 a. m. even. 4 o
H
i
8 0
Arr. 10 a. m.
c
Athaw about
noon, as the
Staid day before.
April 5,
Towards
midnight4o
6, morn. 3o
noon thaw;
Departed therm. 4 o
April;, niidn. lo
7 a m. 2o
Expenccs in
Swedilh Money.
Talvizfe.
Tuokola.
Gumfila
.
Tooby
Wafa <
3 faorfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2: fledges
3 men
[Rlx.d. Skii,
13
04
09
I6
04
09
0 36
04
09
0 42
04
09
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
3 horfes
2 fledges
3 men
0 30
a4
09
O 18
O4
09
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORO, 355
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Tihizie. Here is a room for travellcra. As there were no young men
in the houfe, a young girl followed the fledge in the capacity of driver.
This is a,vcry common thing in Finland, that girls attend the travellers,
in order to take back the horfes, ^ .
Tuokola, No lodging. There are two houfes On the left bank of ariver,
on which we travel as far as Gumfila, and which being open in>
lj!me places threatened us with danger.
Gumfila. I perceived no place whfl^f^ a ftranger might be lodged. As
our journey was to continue on^he fame river which would prefent
the fame dangers, two guides offered themfcives to (hew us the
fafeft route.
Sillampe ; good accommodation for paflengers. There lived a widow in
eafy circuniflanocs, as it appeared, who was provided with every thing
nccefliiry for travellers. Here is a fmall church.
Toohy, An apartment for ftrangers. The country is flat. Meadows of
confiderablc extent, which having been flooded, afforded a plcafaint
paffage for our fledges over the ice.
Wajii is the capital of the government of the fame name. There is a
fea-port, a tribunal of jullice, a prefident, and a governor.
3B2 Ko(ky
356 JOtJftNEYFROM
StikgM tetween Stockholm
and Uleaborg, through
finUnd.
Koilk;.
Manmo.
Onganger
Mono
Skrivars
Fyrkarncfs.
.STOCP^LM TO XJLEABORG, 3^7
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
kojky. This is, properly fpeaking, ngt a place for changing horfes. We
however took this route at the advice of the governor of Wafa, who
direfled^thc peafants to keep horfcs in readinefs for us, in order that,
by going on the river, we might get upon the ice of the fea, and thus
travel more eafily with our fledges; but Igcannot recommend this
road. The peafants are not accuftoined to this employment, and do
not know how to adt, fo that one is expofed to inconvenience.
Wc came by the common poft-rojAto Manmo; but the two lad miles
were over land, and the ways ewemciy bad. I have rcafon to fufpcdl
that the peafants did not fonow the orders of the governor, anti
the route he had traced out for us. The whole of the way from
Manmo to Onganger was over the icc of the fea.
Ongan^er. No place for pafiengers to lodge at.* Wc proceeded conftantly
over the Frozen Sea, traverfing the bays, and palling between
iflands or rocks, that rofe above the furfacc of the ice. On the left
the high fea is feen, on the right the coaft, which is very flat, and
prefents at Ibme diftance pine woods to view.
Mono is a pcalant's houfe, without any accommodation for travellers.
One-third of the way goes over the icc of the fea, two-thirds over
land.
Skrivars. I faw no place for the reception of paflengers. We went
continually on the ice of the fea, where we faw feme boats frozen in,
near to which we paiied with our fledges.
I^rkarnefs. No place to accommodate flrangers. This is likewife a
deviation from the niain road, which wc preferred, for the benefit ot
the ice by fea, as the paflage over land was very bad. We were compelled
to travel all night for want of lodging, and fearing the thaw,
which began to diminilh the ice."
6 Fagernefs
Stages between Stockholm
anO Ulcaborg through
Finland.
S^ediih
Miles,
j
/ Arriyill upd
IHjHihttre.
State of tffc
1
Weather.
Therinotneter
ofCdfiuji.

Expcnces in
Swediih Money.
F^gjfn^fs., ......
.
April?. 3 horfes
Rix d. skit.
10
2 fledges 0 4
3 men 0 9
Kurofolk. . . . 1 3 horles 0 24

1 2 fledges 0 4
3 men 0 9
Gamla Carleby. .... 2 Arrived 3 horfes 1 0
ApwiiS, 2 fledges 0 4
6 aim. i*e 3 men 0 9
DepaAed at
noon. i*Q
Ojanala. 3 3 horfes J 24
2 fledges 0 6
3 men 0 9
Hignala. 2 Arr. 7 p. m. Thaw with 3 horfes 1 0
Departed fnow. 2 fledges 0 4
April 9, 3 men 0 9
9 a.rn. 2^0
Rocola ........... 1
Oajoki. (af- About qo6h
%
3 horfes 1 39
A"" dp and a 3 fledges 0 6
great thaw... 3 men 0 9
STOCKHOLM TO ULEABORG. 359
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Fagernefs. This place is celebrated for good horfes, and we had indeed
very excellent ones. There is no lodging for ftrangers.

Kurofolk, Some fiflicrmcns huts ; no accommodation for travellcra.

The pcafants here, as in other parts of Finland and Sweden, fleep in
beds three llories high, one over the other.
Gamh Carhby \ a fmall town in the government of Wafa. In thepofthoufe,
where you change horfe^here are fomovery decent apartments
for travellers. /
Ojamhi a pcafants houfcj in which no paflengers can be received.
You fhould always take the precaution not to, fufFer yourfelf to be
conducted over land when the paffage for fledges is bad ; but defire
and even oblige your drivers to keep on the ice, though the way
fliould be rather longer.
Iligmla. Lodgings for travellers. You ought not to rifle travelling in
the night under this latitude in the winter feafon, becaufe you cannot
well diflinguilh the road on the ice, and may deviate from your direction.
Wc (hould have gone by Rocola ; but being on the ice of the fca, we
rnuft have fetched a circuit to the right, for the fake of changing
horfts, and come back the fame way : we therefore engaged the
horfes wc had to tring us ftrajghtways to Kalajoki.
Kalajokl No dwelling for travellers. The road proceeds over the ice
of the fea' which is broken by the rocks underneath the furface,
when it finks or lowers itfelf lb as to touch them : this has a very
pretty appearance.
Yowala
^ 2^0 JOURNEY FROM
Stages bilween Stockholm
' and Uleaborg through
Finland.
Swediih
Miles.
Arriyal and
Departure.
State of the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Celiius.
*
Expences in
Swediih Money.
IU8.d. Skit.
Yowaliu u April 9, 3 borfes 0 27
2 fledges 0 4
3 men 0 9
Kevialuoto. *TT 3 borfiSS 0 30
if 2 fledges 0 4
3 men 0 9
Luoto. 1 Arr. 1^, m. A thaw. 3 horfes 0 24
j
Apnk JO, 2 fledges 0 4
Depahcd 3 men 0 9
7 a. in. I'o
SiniludtD. - . . . ^
.
3 horfes 1 0
2 fledges 0 4
* 3 men 0 9
1 About noon *3 horfes 0 24
i

1
a great thaw; 2 fledges 0 4
6 6 3 men 0 9
41
1
3 horfes 0 17
2 fledges 0 4
3 men 0 9
Gertuala. . ^ i-A-
'
1.
3 horfes 0 34
2 fledges 0 4
3 men 0 9
Karicanda. Arr. 9'p. in9. A cdntinued 3 horfes 0 26
April Hi- thdW. 2 fladges 0 4
Dej^ed "3 men 0 9
7 8. 0). The fun bid 'V
the clouds
Ui^oxd.
.
..

..
.
Arr. at noon. .* ..a. 3 horfes 2 36
fledges 0 8
:
3 men 0 l6
LQCALf OBSER^^Oks,
Yowala* Here you find a room with two beds^ at the fcrvice of travellers.
The whole of this coaft prefents nothing interefting to the
painter : Jthe country is flat.
'
'a
Kevialmto* No reception for travellers. We travelled continually on
the ice, though iho paflage was far from being pleafant, on account
of the rocks by which the ice was broken, and the road made very
uneven and rough.
Luoio. Here arc two or thrw roor^^^ to accommodate travellers. You
may even get coffee at this place.
Shiihioto. The pofl-houfc being on the (hore, we had no occafion to
drive up to it, but the horffs, which were ready, were fent down to
us ; they were put to on the ice, and we purfued our journey. I do
not know whether there are any lodgings for palTengers.
Brakeftad\s a fmall town, which has a fea-port, an^carries on fome
commerce. There is an indifferent fort of inn there 5 and the town
does not appear to advantage upon entering it.
Lajfila. No lodging for travellers. , Tbe peafants feem to be poor.
Geriuah^ No accommoclalion for ffrangers. There is a church, and the
parfon lives in a very comfortable houfe. Ho is faid to be one of the
richefl clergyinen in Finland.
Karicanda. Paflbngcrs find j,: lodging here : there is a parlour and two
bed-rooms.
Uleahorg. The capital of Ofirobotboia. It is the refidcncc of a governor
and feme inferior magiflratcs.
Vot.II. 3G. . Ulcaborg
Sa JOURNEY FROm-
Stages beAveeh^Uleahorg
and the North Cape.
SwcsdiCh
Miles.
. -r
Arrival and
Departure.
State of the
Weather.
Thermometer
^Giifius.
#
0.
Expences in
Swedifli Money.
Uiaiborg.
c''
Set offabout
midDight.
June 9.
^
N..B. It being fummer,
a cart or carriage i$ required
inflead of a
fledge; as far as Oiver
Tomea, where horfes
are no longer made
ufe of.
Ttikuri ...... t ..
.
H a '' * ' a'a
r
A. ..
i ^ a 3 hotfes
2 carta
3 men
11.4. ttu.
0 30
04
09
ICaiTmltt: ^ ^ * ti

June 10.
AiEt.^ a,a. 0).
3 borfes
3 men
0 24
04
09
V^la..vii....... ' 3 borfea
2 carta
3 men
0 30
04
09
Saffi. ............ a
.-i , . ..
r t a sa
y
3 horfes
2 carts
3 men
10
04
09
Teflile. >J
M'

V
3 borfes
2 carts
3 men
3 horfta
2 carta,
3 men
0 42
04
09
0 27
04
09
Htttta
J
Arredium.
June 11 ,
Departed
S a. m.
a. #
t a'i
XJUiABORO TO Tm CAPE. 563
LOCAL OBSKIVATIONS.
leaving have to crbfe the a iTcrry-boat, which will
hold horfes and carriage. The fen^ ii at the mouth of the river,
where it is two miles and about 100 yards broad. You coaft along
tvvoiflands^ Piti Saari andHiela Saari,,and leaye them on the left.
On thefe inands they boil the tar, which; confiitates the chief article
of the exports of Ulcaborg^
TuiurL ^me arrangcmenr&r the recq>tipn of travellers. Here is the'
river Aukipudas to pafs in a ferny. It is about four hundred and
fifty yards acrofs. The roads excellent ; you fee every where great
woods.
Kaupila. A room for paflengers/ The country almoft quite flat. A
great deal of pine and flr^wpod : birches very common.
The village of F(gola is fituat^ on one fi<ie, and the fmall town of Lo
on the dttscr fide of the rh^r Lo, which is fix hundred and twenty*
five yards broaU. There is^much falmon caught in this neighbour*
hood. f
' ' ", A
t^l^ dweil^tig A girl of twenty years of age at?
tende^ ns in the quality of d Here is another ferry over the
rivet Kuivaniehii which
< yM have to pafs: it is about one hundred
and fifty yard^acroifsf %
TeJUkk; A iobo^ibr paflengei^
vA :&t of peA^ houfes^ where a traveler may he
in64ated.
3 C2 rva|^
3^. jgMlW
Stages betVew Ulei^rg
aud the North Cape,
ATrivaJ and
Departure.
Weather.
Th^rmpineter
oiCeljjus.
*
.4V
Expences in
Swedilh Money.
Eryaft, i li Jttoe il. , a* a 'f
3 hprfe3
2 carts
3 men
llix.d. SkU.
0 24
04
09
Rautlola : i "'- T T t , 1 aiiories 0 12
jCarta,;
3 men '
Q2
b6
Kctni. i .........
Arr. 3 p. n).
S^jid
June ^4.
June 15.
,
.
.i
4 f e e i 3 borfM Q 30
'
. '..-k
.

3, carts
.
04
;
.y.
;
f, .;'
:
3 ien 0 9
Toroca,,,......,>; 1 June. 13,, 'SJiories. 0, 24
:
Art., at noon-
Staid
carte ;
Amep
04
09
Kukjkp. ..........
.
June 14,*'
13, l6.
Departed
June 17.
. .V
: . 0 24
:,
v..-' .
'i'miW'A;' 0* 9
FrapMla. ........
.
li a., < ' a.'*' .3 iiotfea. rb 36
'
v;.; i'*. . .-i
M
d\Js .vfts--4-
.
't. .
. -v li men ^ 09
. ' -.V',,. V'. .
\"
a. /'. . f '*
'
CAPE. 355
LOCAL OBSERVATrONS.
Ervajl, A room for travellers.
is 8 fmall village on the left bank of the Kemi, which isaconfiderable
river, and flows with great rapidity,
Kemt is alfo the name of the pariflii where the church and the redtors
houfe are, on the right bank of the river Kemi, The road hilly
: you
pafs a little bridge over the river Hakama.
No apartments for travellers. The ice having deftroyed
all the bridges between this and Tornea, we wel-e obliged to crofs feveral
branches of the riv^r Licdakala in a ferry4>oat, as likewife the
river Kumo. At laft you pafs the river Tornea by means of a ferry,
leaving the horfes on the left ^nk, and taking with you your luggage
only. ,
Tornea is a* iteall- trading town, fitu^ a peninfula at the mouth
of the river Torheak You go fotnc way up the river, and leave on
your right a fmail wood of pine-trees, tWib only ones in this vicinity.
: this word fignifies in the Finoifti language a coch Two or
three houfes, wthout any ac&mmodation for travellers.
No lodging for paflengers. You go clofe by a fmall country
houfe belonging to Mr. IKicha^d, a merchant of Tornea,
Korpicula
Stages between TJleaborg
and the North Cape.
Swediih
Miles.
Arrival and
^"Departare.
! State ot lihe
Weather.
1
'I'hcnnometcr
of Gebius.
Expences in
Swediih Money.
kix-i. tkil.
Korpicuia .tv.. . H June 17.
,
. ; n * 3 Iwrfcs 0 33
2 carts 0 4
3 men
*
09
KirkoroekU i.
.
..
.
M Arr. about i 3 borfes 0 33
tnidnight. 2 carls 0 4
June 18. 3 men 0 9
Departed
1
wrly. 1
Niemis; . . . . I . .*i . . 3 horfes 0 18
1
.;

. .f, 2 carts 0 4
3 merf 0 9
1
MiittoreAge^ or Ofver li Arrived
' 3 horfes 0 30
Tocnea.
^
about moon. i (rls 0 4
June 20. 3 men* 99
'S Departed.*
about noon.
Kiltilicnpe . 1 \
-
'
boats
-
slnd4inei) 0 22
Tolufis, Of Juoxenge n
#^
..
. .a. . *
.
,2 borts
8od4 men 0 28
Tc^ttla. >. . . . . . rv ' 1
'
June 21.
. t". . ' V ' ' 2 beats
Arr. ion. m. '
' and 4 men 0 22
*
i

,
j
Here ii' an end of roads and hdrfe8 and yon mull ficacefortB troVd in Iroiti. t
reckon that a gentleman, with bis fervant and an interpreter, which is neceflary in this
country, cannot do with lefs than two boats, efpecially on account of the baggie and
provifloos, which take up a good deal of room. The following calculation of expences
IS therefore made, upon the fuppofition that two boats and four rowers^re employed.
UI^ABOR^^tP lHE NORTH CAPE.
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Korpicula, fignifiea.^ place cwered mth wood* No dwelling for (Irangers
: there arc but two houfes on tb^rtgbt bank of the river, which
at this place forms a round bafon or lutle lake. You have a view of
the waterfall called Matkakojku
Kirkomeki in the language of the couiftry, ^7 church on a hill
There is a church and pretty good lodgings.
Niemis fignifies a pronifiniory. There is a houfe on the left bank of the
little river Armasjoki, and a fmalfwooden bridge over the river. The
road continues hilly.
Mattorenge is the name of the village, nnd Ofver Tornea, or Upper Tornea,
that of the churchy the parifiii and the redos's houfe, Situated
on the right hank of the rive,r Tornea. Oppofite, on the left bank,
is the mountain Avafaxa. We proceeded in a boat on the river
Tornea.
Kaulimpe. Some peafanfs houfes on the left bank of the river. They
here ti(h for falmon ; and there arc people to attend you with their
boats in your journey up the river.
Tolufis. Here you chapge boats. You pafs the waterfalls of KatUIa
Ko(ki,> whore (be French academicians have fixed the tranfit of the
get a lodging, and change boats, with people
;tQ row you. There are many wa^rfalls to pafs, and fix hours were
occupied in petrfonning tbeie two miles. The moft remarkable waterfall
k that of Forofkciki. You have a view of mount Kittis, the laft.
JOpiWEl FR|i*
Stages between Uleaborg
and Che Korth. Cape.
SwediiQk
Miles.
Arrival and
Departure.
State of tSc
Weather.
Thermometer
ofCelilus.*
-
Expences in
Swediih Money.
2 JttOC
Arr. 4 p. ni.
V 1

2 boats
and ^ men
RU-d. skU.'^
0 46
Kardis. 3 2 boats
and 4 men 1 18
Kengis Bruk ...... M Arrived
JuncM.
Departed
June 25.
2.boats
and 4 men 1 12
Koliarc. .......... 3i Depahed
June 26.
morn. 1906
noon 24 6
even. 10 0
heat of the
fun 36 6
the water
15 6
2 boats
and 4 men 2.^42
Muonionifca. ...... r. 11 Staid till June 27 *
morning I9>
noon 1,9
evening 1 7
water 15
the fun +
2 boats
! Julyi.
j
and 4 men 5 36
Jun9 28.
mo. 13 no. 15
ev. IS wa. 15
June 29.
mo. 13 no. 16*
^.wa.l4^
June 30;
mo. 10 no. 25
ev. 2S wa. -f -f
fun
July 1 . ;
ino. 23 no. 27
ev,23 wa, 15
fun 370
Ui^CABORO TO THE NORTO CAPE.
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Pello Clofe to that place is an iron foundcry called Swanftcm* Here
are boats and attendants to be had.
-*,
iir*
Kardis^^^ pcafants houfe. Boats and attendants to be had.
>
At Kengis Bruk is an iron foundery, the infpedlor of which lives in a
good and convenient houfe: a great waterfall. Near this place the
river Tornea joins the river Muonio.
Kalian is a fmall village where thejpeafants feem to be in pretty cafy
circumflanccs : boats and attendance. Here we had the famous Simon,
the moft adlive and expert Finlander of any we ever met with,
in mounting up and defeending from the waterfalls. Some of them
in this diredlion are quite impafiable
; you arethen obliged to drag
the boat for a mile over landj among woods that are almoft impenetrable.
Muonionifia^ z fmall hamlet, with a church and a parfon. You may
get a lodging here, and boats with attendance. Between Kollare and
Muonionifea you meet with a fmall colony called Kiglange, confiding
only of two families that arc very poor.
Vol. il 3 D Ofver
JOURNEY FROM
Stages between Uleaborg
and the North Cape.
Swcdilh
mile^. '
Arnval and
Departure.
State of the
Weather,
Thermometer
of Celdus.
1 July 1.
,
mom. 18 6
noon 2Q
even, ip
water 18
fun 45 -
3 July a. morn, 256
St
noon 27
even. 20
5
water 21
fun 35
9
5
2
1 July4. 17 6
Staid till noon 18
July 6. even. * 11
water ig
fun
1
i'.
i
1
Expcnces in
Swcdilh Money.
Ofver Muonionifca.
KelketAiando.
Pallajovcnio
Suontajcrvi.
Lappajcrvi. -
Pallojcrvi.
Kintafara.
Reftijoki.
N. B.
[Theyholc]
of this
journey
was per-|
formed
with 2
boatsandl
4 men^
without
chang-
,
ing, for
which wei
paid together.
.
B.
Prom thisl
place wej
engaged
feme
dm, at II
12 0
ULEABORG TO THE NORTH CAPE.
LOCAL OBSpiVATIONS.
*
Ofver Muomonifcay ov Upper Muonionifca. The habitation of a Finlander.
There arc no boats to be had at this place. The people of
Muonionifca brought u$ as far as Reftijoki.
KeJkeffuando
:
a fmall Finnifh fettlement. The merchants of Tornea have
built here an apartment with a fire-place, to (lop at in their journeys
to the fairs in winter.
Palkyovenio is the firfl Finnifh colony in Lapland, properly fo called.
You pafs the frontiers of Oftrobothnia between Kelketfuando and
Pallajovcnio.
Suontajervi. Here lives a fingle Lapland family, clofc by a lake of the
fame name (jervi (ignifics a lake). No boats are to be had here in
fummer, becaufc the Laplanders go from home to fifli.
Lappajervi^ a Lapland fettlement, about half a mile (Swed.) in the interior
of the country, on the right of the river. No boats to be had.
Pallojerviy a lake without any habitj^tion near it.
Kintafari^ an iflahd in the lake of Pallojervi, without any permanent
habitation. Some Laplanders occafionally flay there duling the fifliing
feafon.
Rejlijokii the name of the river which flows into the lake of Pallojervi.
A defert country. We fell in with fomc wandering Laplanders on
the right bank of the river. You arc obliged to go on foot.
3 Da Kevijervi
3?* JQimNEY FROM
Stages between Uleaborg
and the North Cape.
Kevijervi.
Ajtijervi.
KautokeinO*
Keinowdppi. . . . ;
,
Arrival and
State of
Swediih Weather,
Miles. Departure. Thermometer
of Celfius.
1 July 6. morn. 14 6
noon 20
even. 17
, Z water 18
fun 43
1
;
6* July 7. morn. 10 6.
noon V
even. 20
water 10
ifun 43
Ms.
mdlR. 15 6
noon 22
even. i6
water 15
fun +
1
i
Julyp.
morn. 14 6
noon 25
even. 13
i''
water I0t
fun 40
4L..
.
.,V
Exjiences in
Swcdifli Money.
rix-d. perj
day lo attend
U8.V
\Yc.had
feven of
them fori
adayand
a half as
far as
Kautokeino^
which
made together
a|
Aim of. 5 12
* Heremthe Norwegian milesi which bear to die SD^dish a proportion as IS to 16.
t The temperature of the water 1 generally took about 6 or 7 o'clock in the evening.
ULEABORG TO THE NORTH CAPE. m.
LOCAL OfiSERVATIONS.
Kevijervi, a lake, without any habitation near it, and a dcfert country.
ThislAe is upon the frontier of Norwegian Lapland, which the
Danes call
Jjdjervii another lake: no dwelling near it. You neither meet with
people nor houfes till you conie to Kautoheinoy to which place you
proceed down the river Pej^pojovaivi*
Kautokeino is a fmall Lapland village. There is* a church, and in winter
alfo a clergyman. Here you may hire boats and men to purfue
your journey.
keinowappi, a place on the left bank of the river, where we pafted the
night under our tent. No houles nor people ; the countiy quitedcfert.

375 UEEABORG TO THE NORTH CAPE.

LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Mari, Here is a fmall church for the convenience of the Laplanders
in winter. No body lives here in fummer. Hence you meet with
neither Iboufes nor people till you get clofe to Alien.
Kotnosjoki is the name of a river (joki fignifies a river). Here we quilted
the river Alten and our boats, to traverfe the mountains on foot. No
veflige of a human habitation all this way.
i- *
Salvargo^ : a deferted cottage, where we pafled the night in the miclll
of mountains. We again joined the river Alton near the fpot where
it receives the river Katiojoki. Unlefs you meet with fome people
that are fifhing for falinon, you are obliged either to fwim acrofs the
river, or to go up its banks till you find a place which is fordable.
Lainie is a fmall village, where we ftopt before we proceeded to Alton.
Alten is only the houfe of a merchant, with fome eftablifhincnt of peafantry
about it. It is fituated on the gulf of Alten Fiord, which is
an arm of the Frozen Ocean. A quarter of a mile hence (Swed. or
Nowegian) is Altengaard, which is properly the refidence of the bailiff
of Norwegian Lajjand, and belongs to the government of Drontheim.-*
Preceded
376 JOURNEY FROM
Stages bctween Ulcaborg
and the North Cape.
Swediih
Miles.
Arrival and
Departure.
State of the
Weather.
Thermometer
of Cellius.
Expcnccs in
Swediih Money.
Proceeded on tfie
Journey towards
the North Cape.
iy'., CJuly
i6. morn. 16 6
noon 17
even. 10
water of the
icy fea 6 6
fun 24
0
N. B.
The whole
of the
Rlk.d. skit.
Havefund 10 July 17. morn. 9 6
noon 1
1
even. 10
fea 6
fun 24
expence,
with one
boat and
4 rowers
from Alten
to
Noath Capb. . . .
.
3
<
July 18,
Arrived
at midnight.
morn. 12 6
noon 1
5
even. 20
fea 6
fun 26
1
the
North
1 Cape
amounted
to. .
.
5 12
ULEABORG TO THE NORTH CAPE.
LOCAL OBSERVATIONS.
Havefund: the houie of a merchant, upon an illand which forms a (Irait
called by that name. Sund lignifies a ftrait.
The North Cafe is the moll northern point of Meagre Illand, in the
Norway tongue called Magerm, under 7
1
* icf north latitude.
378 METEOROtOClCAL OBSERVATIONS.
0
Jsfor my Reitirn, the Route may be feen upon the Map prfixed to
the Second Volume.. The Expences ivere nearly the fame, and 1
Jhall only tranfcribe my meteorological Obfervations,for the Sake of
. thofe 'Doha are curious aboutfuch Remarks.
July ig. On the or the Frozen Ocean morning aaS
noon 25
evening 19
Water of the Icy Sea 7
: The Sun - 30
July 20. On the Icy Sea, in returning to Alten morning 24
noon 26
evening 23
Water of the Icy Sea 13
The Sun - , 39
A perfed calm reigned on the fea, and 1 do not remember having
ever fuifered greater heat in my life than in this journey. The calms
here perfectly referable thofe which Vaillant and other travellers deferibe
at the Cape of Good Hope.
July 21. At Alten - , . morning 25 o
noon 27

' evening 25
The fea water near the fhore 1
3
The fun - 42
Jtdy 22. At Alton - - morning 20
noon 21
evening 16
fun 32
July 23 and 24 was prevented from making obfervations.
Jtdy
METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 379
Jtiljl 25. At A^en morning 10*^5
noon > J2
evening 9
July 26. Set off from Alien morning 10
. noon 13
evening 9
July TJ.
^
Pafled the mountains ; gloomy weather morning 9.
Some fnow fell noon 6
evening 3
July 28. Among the mountains morning 3
noon 4
evening 4
July 29, On the river Alten, returning to Kautokeino morning 4
noon 5
evening 5
Water of the river 14
fun +
July 30. At Kautokeino ... morning 9
noon 12
evening 11
July. 31. On our way from Kautokeino to Enontekis morning 8
noon 10
Gloomy weather evening 3
Auguft 1 / Among the mountains on the bounJ&ry of
Swedifli and Norwegian Lapland morning 2
noon 11
evening 11
Auguft 2. - - morning 8
noon 11
evening 11
We arrived at Enontekis towards the evening
Auguft 3. On the river Muonio morning 5
noon 8
evening 6
Auguft
38o meteorological OBSERVATIONS. ?
jiugttfi 4. On the river Muonio ^orning
noon 10
evening 6
Avgufi 5. At Muonionifea - morning 6
* noon 11
evening 8
Au^iijl 6. On the river Muonio morning 7
- noon 7
evening 6
Augujl 7. AtRcngis morning 6
noon 8
. evening 7
Augufi 8. On the river Tornea morning 8
noon 11
evening 9
Augufi 9. At Ofver Tornea naorning 8
V
noon 10
evening 7
Augufi 10. At Tornea morning 7
noon 9
evening 6
Aup^ 11. This day we travelled from Tornea to Uleaboig, and arrived
at the latter place towards the evening.
FINIS.
T* Gilley Printtri Saliibury^tiuaro^

33 17;?
Ulsiatit Hibrar
Author... A jerbi , Joseph
.
Title 71*^.ye 1 r, t hi oil g}i vwe de n
Lapland.
Call No. ^.9.14.A.173..t
y.ooy,
dt* V
VO