(COAT ITH SHAWL COLLAR a ar NECK DART /counr| E ‘STAND ‘SHAWL COLLAR HLTH DARTS. TH BACK I tlustrstion, shoe oot larwith a 3 standin Backt The darts. in Pack cause the collar to. stind away. fron the necks “This is neces Bary Decause of “the igh stanas T angie Using, the emt founca~ tiondraft the shoul Gor dart in fronts 36 iWlustrated. iii and 1 ako trent, wider be- Yow waistline. and draw rolling. tines thes Erace neck and’center front. ' BACK OF COLLAR Ato 8-6". B ise > Sher © to 0 = Connect, BIDE - Equals ¢ to Bolus 1/45 9 to € - Drawa curv ea Tine, " Apply back of | collar tr Front as shown by dotted Tines. wt Draft front part of Goflar and'revers,us= patho sano ae shown for the Jacke shawl collar tpagoei). wn 7 WITH DARTS IN BACK Trate revers to complete,the front. Mark the position for dotted Tines. tr the darts, as shown by x Spread collar sections; then draw V-shaped lines fer darts, SHAME COLLAR WLTH SEPARATE COLLAR STAND I lustration share coat with neck” dart cin Front, and col far with a’ Separate stand. This collar ig cut. in tno. parts to allow the outer part to be" cut in furvand ‘the stang In material. This is to prevent skin irtl tation sone= tines “Caused by tur rubbing against the neck. XE ang it These diagrans show how to draft the neck dart. vit and x1 for separate collar Stands. cut through tolling “Tine; then. close’ "the darts ‘and trace stand in one piece.(COAT RAGLAN SLEEVES AGLAW SLEEVE LTH SHOULOER DART Using the coat foundation of the front, back and Sleeve,shift the ‘shoulder Sean forward 174". Also SRIF the’ shoulder notch on the sheave toward” the front, 1/4" a Draft the raglan arshole Tines ‘on the Front and pack, a8" shom ty 'dottee Mark ‘dots on front, and back part” of the "sleeve Cap to correspond with the ots on the arahale. ur hone of, "the. front age back, and oa rea to the “cap of the sieeve having. the sections. toue the “side” of. the sleave Sition, the space between the “sieeve “eap. and the shoulder sections. equals the shogl der extension on the engt.. for, exazple For a I'bfoager shoul der, make space batwoen sheave 699. and shoulder sections w TPaee, ete. Ww responding notches. TWO-PIECE RAGLAN SLEEVE Vand w The method of naking this Sleeve is to divide the dart steve in. two parte. 8 shown by dotted Nines: The alloxance under the arn maybe" given to an Sleeve which” ts'aade for the deeper achat. The amount. to be added at the “top'of the: nderars Sean depends-on the depth ofthe armole’ of gamonts For oxanp For 1* deeper armhole, Stiow 1+ “to’the underara Tenath of the stooves vse WINGSRratogs” Foret 38 Seaper arehote, a 11723 Allow seans and mark cor~ responding aotches. Gut avay the shoulder sec 8 SLEEVE. gap at 3 correspanding p>~ Allow seams and mark cor- 2-P1 EOE acaw SteevEDRAFT OF HOOD AND CAPE Hood has to to to te to te Sketch shows how to take ‘Head Heicht™ measurement. Other views, show Hood. faced with contr: at each side of neekedge Use'the back foundation, size 16, to draft the hood, Ho TO DRAFT THE HOOD PATTERN ein Teziturn back at top of front, and 2 pfeat 1 . Extend center back line up, 2° 35. Back of Neck) ‘ne’ FFon point © 10" et senhole, draw Equale 4" (Front of Nock). Seuare a Up fron Line Go; then cofinect.E*to D- Equale 14" {toad Hetant, plus 4*) BY faerose back Messurenent, plus 1"). 18 D = Connect. 1 to Hl Equals 2# (allovance for back of head). $01 = Equals 2" (extension for turn back): 48.1 = Equste in. Thon connect tron eto. J" to 1. = raw curved neckline for Hoad. 10 B= Connect. y ‘Aas ceane and ark pleat lines 2° tong. How TO DRAFT THE CAPE PATTERN MMustration shows cope with shoulder dart fitting ang with minimum 1 weep at lower ‘edge (60" sweep, and 42" length for size 16). Use the dress foundation as a guide to draft the cape. 1 Trace front and back sbovt 12% /aport; then mske shoulder dart. A'to'g = Sauare aline scroso fron center Back to arnhol. B to C = Emale 1/4 of ling ABs (allowance for ease over the arn) Die ~ Emuals line toc. un 42". (Length of Cane) | Extens center dack Vine down to 6. Fto.6 G fol - Equals 158 (174 of GO" swoep), Square this, |ine scross at G. B to C= Connect: then draw a curved tine tron shoylder to point ¢ H to (= Equars i/2-of Vine H-G. Sevare Tine to polne | fan Tine Ch ‘10 k= Equals #406; then logate point {and coaplete draft of front. nm Add seams and rake correcponding fetches. Make shoulder cart 2” shor ter. j2-PIECE CIRCULAR CAPE 0 Illustrations below, show plain cular ape about 374 Tength, 40 Teck’ to" bottom, Draft cape, using the fitted front and back ofwaist a3 a guide, as follows: 2epiece cire From'back oF 1 A to 8 ~ Square tine across, fron center back tb araholer © to. - Draw line from aranole to center front, parallel to walstl ine. W Place front, and back so that shoulders neet at grnbolg, having the space betwocn'# and © haltMat A'to'B "funis space resrgsente™ the minimum apount for any Styis cape). Oraw slightly curved line between 8 and Cy m E to F - Represents, reayired cape length at center back (40" for this draft}. D to G - Equals & to Fe H -'~ Conter between 8 and C. I to J = Draw lige through H, making H to J equal A'to Fr F to G~ Draw circular line through J... (This Hing fe'paraliel to line A to 8 to # te't to Bye w for a cape less cireular at lover, edge, re- Guce-at Sts nothing at Hon front and’ back as shown on the inside dotted |ines. For additional fulnose in eape, add at J to nothing at shoulder point I, as’shown by the sutside dotted lines. CENTER FRONTx) I ooCENTER BACK INOS FINI CIRCULAR CAPE (SOUARE SHOULDER DESIGN) 82 Lslustrations below show cape with § shoulder tarts. The cape is about 32" Tongs The, pattern is so cut that It provides the extra fulness for the square shouldered effect. 1 Using the fitted waist, foundation, trace front and back, with shoulder to Shoulter, and neckline eveng tien shift + shoulder line forward 17/2" for nem shoulder Tine a3 shown by dotted tine Draft yoke 3* wide at center front, and 4-178" at Shoulder sean 1/2 at center back, Draft the dart fines as follows: First, draw a curved line between arsholes 3* below the joke ling; then draw, the dart tines [* apart at the yoke, And" I-I74% Spartiat'the lower curved (ine. ur Draw a squared line at the upper left corner. Then cut out front ang back In-ono piece (including the extended Section for the darts). Bofore placing front and back against the squared line, glash slong "Znguider Tine and. fnlo the’ “yokes then con” Tinue to'sfash down each ‘dart lines Place front and back carefully against the squared lines, making equal size spaces for ‘darts; then trace as. il- Tistrated Draw a circular line fro center back to center front “along Bust Tine, and. 4* below dart section at side, as Shown “by dotted Tine. This eirevlar Tine” serves aoa Guide line for drawing the lower edge cape lines W Diagram shows draft of cape 32% long with lover circular Hine parallel to the eireular guide Ine. For additional puff, add to top of darts:as shown wy dotted Tine. Instead of darts, cape may be made with pleats or shirring al shoulders For a cape with less fulness at bottom, reduce about 4* each side of side sean,1 WAIST LENGTH GRADE! Flest cam center pack ha; thon 'anife pottern yont/ae from Ato 6 ane Yate the corer at point: rue oe ee PART OF ARWHOLE GRADE GRADING WIsses (Showing method of grading size 16 to 18) sizes 7 | GRADING is the art of Increasing or gecreseing 4 sample’ size pattern proportionately, secording to the Standard body measurement The method of grading a pattern from one size to. an other is by ahi fing’ the’ pattern piece fron point to point, traclag each step as you go along. The instructions for grading the pattern as shown on inis “page 1s merely’ fundamental, and should serve as, baste For graaing style pattorns: NOTE: Many manufacturers grade the width of front and ack only” S/s" “ingtoad Of 1/24, from center front or back to Side seas. In this caso,” they grade. only. 1/16" for the shoulder, and'/16* fron’ armhole to side sean HON TO GRADE THE BACK Tr BACK NECK GRADE Yj Next shift pattern out IB" keeping Senter back gf gattecns” parallel to x e A3s Then comer at polat C. trace Wr SIDE LENGTH GRADE Week THT SHOULDER SEAM GRADE Y Yy Li » i Shift pattern out 1/a* and. trace from C to 0: Then mark corner at polnt O 1 PART OF ARHMOLE GRADE Y y ypsose x x i i \ \ \ 1 ; i Shift pattera dow, 1/8" i tracing armhole from ' CTE ang ekira point Es ; Shout"! Sbovelbest Tine ! {VEE BACK WAISTLINE GRADE Shift, pettern ovt 1/4", and trace armhole. From E'to Fithen trace cornee at point F. ' 1 i i ' ' ' 1 i 1 1 eee HOW TO GRADE SIE pattern don, 1/9" and trate: fron F to Gi iten “race “corner ai point & THE FRONT ve and trace from G to Ayto Complete the grace. owing, were anu ow ich Datura’ was" grades Shit pattern Diagram also shows how tovgrade” waistline “of Battern that has await H fl 1 1 1 1 ' 1 ' art. Ts, Stage the frost, use Sanetnethod of sani ttin Pattern 9s stow for grade Ing the, Backy"txcept the Gh, ich Ts graded" ta Showing, where and how ituch pattern wae graded Disoram also. shows how to grade” waistline of pattern that has awalet Gar To,grade,ing cleaver use | Shoring, where ang tow Fane” nechod meh "Enot af seve"paeteeh Sakiocn tne’ Shown’ for 1 tas" grates Tae ef Set 18 racine the “Gack, ang | to 8 TeeBteweoumeng (507 | Ine ciboy dart renaina the sane for all Efres! I 1 “ i ifting | 1 ' LWITH SIDE DART 6 Spm Ws i Ye WAIST DART PP TECE BAK Ds ee VL a steve Ya cy The grade fros 96 to 33 ig very yeh the sane as tho grado fron I6 to, 10,the difference by ing an, extra grade in the front var the bist, from shoulder seam to waistline this grade 1s requires for the ladles! sizes only: Yother the front nas a side dart, shoulder dart or waist dart fitting, the extra grade of fat shouldbe” given as Shown in these dis orans. The ladies! "sizes represent the wature fig and therefore the Front pattern requires ti Gktra grade (1/5") Inthe dart foreach sites The underarm length of the waist and sleeve remains the sane for all ladies’ sizes. The grade’ in the armhole and in We ateeve cap is"sonedhat greater than in the miasme" sizes 9 The orade from 38 to 40 and fron @ to 42yete, isthe saao'as Tron 36. to" GRADE OF PATTERN WITH SIDE DART IN FRONT Ohart shows where and how much pattern is in creased fran 38. to 38. The extra grade of 1/8" over the bust in- 2 the size of the sige darts” This also les the “necessary” grade of 9/a*— from jer to waistline, there. being 1/10" at rouldar than the neck is raised. 1/164) at the armfold,and 1/8" at the bust! inde The sleeve grade at, tho wrist is half of the bicep grades For instance: The grade at vices is 1724; St" the wrist. I/4%,. This vrineiple al 50,appl ies to the grade of ‘sieeve! in th miss~ GRADE OF SHOULDER DART, WAIST DART, etc. Chart shows method of grading front patter With shoulder dart or walet dart. fitting. sake ing thes Increase. of S78. fron shoulder to wajstlineand: increasing the size of the dare Tet tor each size. Chart also shows where and hy wich the two= plece Back a increased from 26"t0 30 GRADE OF 4-PIECE PATTERN WITH 2-PIECE SLEEVE Apply the sare method In grading the 2-picce ffont asin grading the shoulder dart Fronts Ihe grade of the 2piece back is similar to Re Grade GF the ack “Sections th the. above The eatire 1/8* shoulder grado is applied to the Side’ section of front and back. The increase of the 2-piace sieve as onecpiece Sleeve shown in the chGRADING SIZE 18 (misses!) to 98 (ladies! size) The grade fron 18 to 36 is very much the cane faa the grade from 36 to 2, the differencoy be- Tng.an extra tae grade in'the waist length, Thie'makes. the bath aboul 1/2" Tongor waisted ang. the front 8/8" longer fron shoulder to thether the front has a sige dart, shoulder dart of walsttdart feting,the ented grade of 78%, Shovld bo. given across. the bust,ge show inthe charts of ladies! grade 36 to". The ladies! size 96 ig the mature figuce and therefore reauires this. ektra grade over the bust. GRADE FROM. 16 to 36 Chart shows where and ho much pattern is (nereased from 16. to 38. The extra grade of U8" Inereases, the size of the sige darteThis, a'so provides the naceseary grad of 5/5" Trew Shoulder. tovnaist tne in thot front, thore faa. I/igt at"shoulder when, the neck, 13. Fal con1/ibe), S/Oe al the arshole, 1/8" at the Beet line,'and) 1/4# beaten the’ dart ana fhe waistling. Thesleeye grade. is very much the sane as. from 16.to Id, the difference boing 3/18 grade. in the cap height instead of 1/0. GRADING 16 (regular) to leh (half size) Tne difference between the regular and the faitisize. figures fe nainhy in tho height. the Tegular size figure neasurlag 5 tect 7" of 8° Tn@hetont, and tho halt size about feet 3 Garments designed for tho shortor yorgn (trade tera is half sizes) aco mado about 2» shorter than ‘the paraents for “the Standard regular plzeg; that Is |* shorter above the Waistline and 2# shorter Below the hip. The hip of the half size figure is atout | {o'2! Targer,and the waistline about (* 1a er, than the'cegular size figure. The arm about" |? shorter. GRADE FROM REGULAR TO HALF SIZE Chart shows where and how euch pattem is grad- ed fron regular te hall size. This agthod may be applied to grading patterns Tron T6-tor1Bhy 36 te'abhy or (3.0 182. “For Instango; If a'etyie ie. designes inthe regular sfasstslautes" of junzor aizoe, and'tno gare Sly lemiy be suitable tor giorter wonen va halt Site oattern, is) then’ wade by grading ffon the fegular to the half-size, aaking. the pattern Shorter provortionately,énd larger, in, fhe, hip Gnd’ waletiine, as shows’ tn this chart. “Once the hal size’ is established, the pattern may belaradee'te'the other required’ sites a5 101 For the aisses! half sizes,l4i, 164, 184, etc. For the ladies! half sizes, 964, 365,434,404 etc. For the juniors! halt sites, (38, ID8s1?8 ete: The method of grading the pattera from 164 to Teh "or Sb tel s8, "or 13% ta TOF, je the same ag. thel grade fran [eto 16, 36 toa or 13'toGRADING 13 to 15, (juntor sizes) AND 8 to 10 (girls! sizes) 88 GRADING OF JUNIOR ‘1765 junior sizes range fron Il to 17, of Id *if."Senotines Certain Junior stylée are node insizes 8 to lf or I to 19, ete hen gracing a pattern fron size 13 to 15, use sane “method of shifting pattern fros one’ point to" anotiier * as, “shown von the grading page Tor nfeses! cites 16 to 18. The grage from size 19 te Il is the sane as Fron 13°te 18. ‘ The,97898 ofA, Hite 9 is qret full orace Usbout’S74 of the grade from 1a to f ‘SHOWING GRADING POSITIGN ON PATTERN This chart shoes where and how much pattern is afaded fran 13" to" 15. for, 6 shapes sleeves grade length of sleeve In 2 places, gbove and below the elbow as shown on the misses! grading pave. center front or back’ to side sean.In this eace, the grage noule be 1/8" for the mock, 1/16" for the Shoulder and'3/16* from arahole. to Side sean. GRADING GIRLS* SIZES The plris'sizes range fron 7 to 12 or sonetines fron?" to 14, (75810-1214). | Styles for these sizes ere culteble for girls! || oF pubtie schoo! age: 4 sample is usually made in size 8. Sone manu factorers make thelr sonples Ia size Ibe Theaverage Inereose in height for giris' sizes | is about S* frow else 8 to lOyete.; the average | | waist length (fron neck to waistline) Increases: about 3/4¥ per size; the underara Steeve fength | about 3/4" per size. SHOWING GRADING POSITION ON PATTERN This chart shows where ang how auch pattern is Graéed tron size B't9 TO. Viren grading pattern from one size to, another, | Yat) date methow af” shifeingvpattern tran point | jo point as shown” on” grading page for: misses! sizes 6 fo 18 eer The, skirt grade from center front to center | back is the sane as the grade of the bodice. | The grade of the skirt length Is about Z* per The grade from size & to'7 eousls half of the atade fron elze 8 22°10.GRADING KIMOHO, RAGLAN ANO DOLMAN SLEEVES KIMONO SLEEVE “i ban ah RAGLAN SLEEVE DDOLMAN SLEEVE 16 to te a7 GRADING THE KIMONO SLEEVE Chart shows how pattern is graded fron size t6 fo'i8. When grading the front and ack 1/4" ongersin the waist, the increase ist beade near the top, as illustrated, This gives the sleeve’ 172" grade aerass the tops For* the ladies" sizes with side darts, use “the sane “method of grading’ thé darts as shown on the grade Fron 38 10°38. Waar of When grading a pattern for a toose fit Ying armen grade front and back 3/3 each “in"the’ width, ‘making’ only 1/8" Grade at the underata instead of 1/8, For junior sizes, use tho cae method a8 oéscribod bofew' forthe Dolman sleet. GRADING THE RAGLAN StFEVE Ghart shows the grade. fron 18 to 18 for the front, back and sleeve, When grading the raglan sleeve and the raglan grafole of the trent. and bach, [tis" Important to grade tho corre’ sponding ancunts at {he corresponding positions. The anount used for grading must tally with “the grade of 3" pattern with.» Fegular armhole ang set-in sleeves For instance: the total rage’ fram neck to weist'of 18 to 1a is S/4*, or Ii" at Shas lar Va" at the gap the ser, and 1/8 "above ana 1/8 below the elbows The width of the sleeve at the neck ré- eains the sane for all sizes.The uswal Grads in the'neck 1S given inthe frank, Bhd back only. GRADING THE DOLMAN SLEEVE Chart shows where and how nuch pattern 13"graded tron size 18ta Bs For the junfor sizes, fron 13 to 15, or 15'to'l7, ete., the grado ie. the Zane as shoan'in thé chart, the only differ ence being an extra grade of 1/4" be- {ween the armhole and the waistline ia Front and “back sections: “This. would account for the 1/3" grade in. tha waist Fength, between the’ neek and tho walet~ For ladies! sizes,see directions above for the kimono sieeve.SKIRT GRADING, SIZE 16 to 18 STYLE | eT STE 2 ta" te ie 26" te” Z Ig FRONT g a 5 g ta.” Sain i 2k s| 4g 3 te A We 7 sae % Se nme ones ie tia ib Zl 8 : a 8 STYLE 1 (2-PIECE SKIRT) The increase from 16 to is 2° arcund walet and hip, or | fro centar front to Genter back. Chart. shows where and how such pattern is Increased fron 16 To 18." The front. takes. the Hoh geade in one shit tyah ile the beck grade "T's divided 1 to two shifts, as ITlustrat~ et. sTvLe 2 Chart shows skirt pattern ie four sections and it also shone how such to-orade each Section “from one” size” to another. It is an established rule that the front ana beck Of 4 4-plece: skirt pattern te ta bel graded only 13" oath, and Sie for each’ side section: sive 3 Chart shows whore and how sue pattorn 13. graded Trow 16. to Mi “osing ther sang oringi ole as'the grade for Styie 2: Wren grading the yoke parts ofthe front ‘and! back, "they fist Ee graded to cnrréssend ith thes top part of the ad= Joining’ sige Section. STYLE 4 Chart shows 2-pieco ekirt Sith sido yoke, grades fron Te'to IB Use the cane method of aivid ing the grate as shown inthe grade of Style 3 It is advisable to keep the foner “edges of the yore of the graded sizes at the same angle as the sauple size. the Gate apglies’ to the ciant- ng. eages ot the Front. and bases STHLE 5 Ghart shows grage of skirt front whieh fein “2 parts. and’ skiet back wlth 2 farts: Chart also. shows where and how much pattern 15 Mereaes edyahich Totals I from cen= ter" tront to canter backs The 1/8" grade near the con Yer ‘Front ang bass, and tho Balance "at the cide ta in Keeping with the grade of the Aplece shirt. SIVtE 6 Chart shows grade of trousers or divided skirt “Fron size 18 to's The grade of the eroteh depth froawaigtline to the feo sean 15 3B" This glade is facde in tao shifts a8 “inate Gated. with arrons in front and back The waist and hip grade is the sane-as for thesskirt.GRADING JACKET AND COAT PATTERNS - SIZE 16 to 18 2-PIECE SLEEVE ye SMe a sTVte | Chart shows where and how much jacket gutter 18" Graded! From size ato ie The entire increase of the under arn grade is given at the side of fhe Front’ becavse the underaen span had been shifted toward the back about 2" The grede,gf the, piece, stone GiTaed' equally Between “the tpper and under sleeve, with the UBuR) eap grace In the upper sleere. The,collar takes the neck grade OF ahe Front ané back. STYLE 2 Chart. shows peplum jacket graded Fron'té'to 1B Replun doos not orado in, longthy Sat ahem grading tn widths eat” tera’mustebe shifted tn the ai fection af the shape of the vicars AS ingieated with arrows, The sam Applies to tho’ lower siveve sec~ tba. The upper sleeve thes the entire sleeve Tength grade. STYLE 3 Chart shows coat pattern From 16 to lee graded When grading the circular part Dt they front and bac, pattern fust be shifted. in the directien Ne indicated on the” chart with The horizontal and vertical must! correspond with the Blue eect ions. grade tipper The cuff rade sust correspond with the gfage of the lower part of the slecve. NOTE: Many manufacturers grade Thor front tod back oniy 3/6 ine Btead ‘of 1724, frow center front orothack ta the! tte seen, foe jor closer fitting garments, 1 728 grade is|oretectedsURDERGARWENT DRAFTING (Bra and Panties Foundation) es Pot HU SHOULDER STRAP —S center |? BACK PANTIES SELYEDGE usser BRA WITH TRIPLE BUST OARTS | PANTIES WITH GUSSET rm 99 The'bral hich Is an abbreviated rascfefer nas the uplift outi or the cup shape fitting, sul table for. tho misses and jumior si figures Thig “bra*style has aarts, The panties are cut. on the bias and have gusset sections at loner part of front and backs triple bust 1 Use the hid fenoth dress foundation (Size"Tg}"tas'a guide, Trace front and back to waiStliné only: than Trace" the hip sections vagoyt 2° Below warstiine. llrk Sections Rto'd,"as iilusteated. Reduce 1/2" at side to nothing at ips Reduce 1/2" at cmter back waistline tovnothing at neck, and to 1/4* at fine Draw Straight ‘shouldor. to Front and Back. For panties. continue tines down and shape tower edge, as" shown by'dotted Ines. line from center {op of Manet in 1 Draft the'ora” as indicated by dotted Tiness" then make shoulder Straps 1/2" wise. For panties, reduee front + at waistiine to nothing at hip, by losing! up rant ear, ths, sorbade jog, below nip. Weduce alt of daze gt back” waist! ine (leaving 2'3/4¥ dart) To nothing at nine Soreading. lower edge, as iI lus tated. Draft gusset, sections at center front “and= hack, a8 shown by aotted Tines. ur Cut out front and back of the brat sections; then bring A and'B for yether” and" and’ & together, a3 Frustrated. For shoulder strap, join and back seetions in 'one. For elastic. in back, cut off 2° fron center ‘back of section € for’ a d¥ strip of elastic, as shown in diagram 19, front. Ww For @ cup shaped fitting, slash Front between A-and G, and spread USE Breast oornt. For the bust darts, wake the first dart a Tong “and. '1/3 tha wideh OF the spraad at. lover edge. Make ehatning darts ax shown in'dlagran Allow geans and draw grain lines ‘on’ bra® sections. : a Make the onti ce panties patterns then ‘sack’ slash Tnes *3:173" long at ceater front and back’ for the gusset sections. Allow seas and make correspond ing totehes. |Mark positions for oanet seat a5 shown by dotted lines. 4H, B,C ana 8, and pleate Hark'SeBt ions sous mar ¥ - Gre ‘ Z » D> \Ney-| 7 y wa arent \llustration shows “bra” with front panel aa Use the'bra’ foundation (page 77, diagran *Preeding for the 2 pleats. = fae U Draw V-shaped lines, if darts are desired Ai ak ow for seams, mar k grain tine, 2" correspond ng no cheer ang SHOULDER STRAP BLasric om BRA FOUNDATION, ur i This style ‘bra’ has horizontal seae across Front seetions. Pattern is so cut, tho cup shape Fittings 1 Use the ‘brat foundation as described a~ bove for Style Te n center front into 2 equal parts, tit gives the’bra’ divide and side sean in 2 equal parts; then drae “horizontal sean fine, ae. shown by dotted Tine. Wark sections’ Ay Band C. ur Close up dart between 8 and Cc. w Alloy seams in upper and lower {rant see tions; then ‘mark grain lines and, make corresponding notenes. 1 & %, %, SEAM AT CENTER cP The panties and gussets are There are no cide soans. Eliminate’ the wart dart in back spread below hip, as IIlustrated. Round off corners along center front 1 and” back “at gussets, as. shown by Use the panties foundation (shown on dotted lin page 77, diagram Ht) as a guides For left sida opning draw a 6* fine Trace, front and back (including the at side. gussets) with side seans" together. Mark grain line, allow for seane and aid make Corresponding notches.UNDERGARMENT ORAFTING (Combination Style} (CENTER FRONT \lustration shows brassiere with bust’ grthers, ane panties with guesets This garwoat ie usually worn in placevof a stip under a dross of Reavier material and Is aboot. 2° Tonger than the regulation panties Fength. t Uso the,hip,Jength, dress. founda Tien Side? gee, Reduce 1/2" at side t0 nothing at ie Redice 2" at cantar back waistline Ie estalhe MafuscaMana" tot /ae cai Draw straight tine from center of Shaeraer" 8 top oF Gare" ta foes ee for ‘panties, continue. tines down End shage. Tower’ e8ge;'a2 Showa) Ea inal! 1 Draft, the brassiere as indicated by"dotted’ Ines: then rake shoul= der strans 1/3" widesdark. sections Whois (For cup shape fitting, stash de- tween’ A and C and sptead'(* at Breast point, as shown on page 77, aiagran Tv a1 Separate the beassiere sections, in Front and back; then eloge up the front dart between A'andB,” and continue lover, seam tine to’ side, as "shown by" dotted lines Bring sections E and F togethar tn conafete’ backs For panties, bring sections © and D together. ‘and Gand H together, above the hipline, spreading sec” Bons below hip'aé illustrated. Draft gusset, sections at center front and back,as shown by dotted w ake the entire brassiere and panties pattora; then mark slash tines at Tower edge of center front. and back’ for gusset Sections. Allow seans, mark grain Tines and ake" corresponding matches.UNDERGARMENT DRAFTING (2 Styles of Brassieres Suitable for Ladies Sizes) 93 ‘CENTER FRONT, 3Ove BIND FRONT STYLE | ‘ | Use the hin tonath dase foundstion (size 16) 26 9 guide: We, EBGutaP /SUONE SFSee Seg gan Ripe ae kad Sentes back waistline to nothing at neck and to 174" at hip. | Droy stealaht lines. fron center of shoulder to top of dart PeeF SRAM hack thas Boal rassl fen a8 sheen Bp dotted Maatctagbmscaa foes Arash? Ir | Separate the 3 front section, and 2 back sections a6 illstatat Cidsina upfront dart. between A and @ithen nark the position for the Pleats in section Be uit and av Sige aty lol ataee cis ontande' heat oebajev ina Slash along the 2 pleat tines; then close up waist dart, waistline, and fastens to” the foundation or Spreading evenly for’ the 2 pleats. Corset, ta fold the brassiere in position. Allow seams, mark grain lines and make corresoonding notches. 7 ‘SHOULDER STRAP Gow FRONT v7 eam Back’ qv ' SHOULDER STRAP ZS ‘i 5 ER CA nal ql tne sme e OFFER ONT owt a gL as 1 Use the dress foundation (size,16) to waistline only: then Feduce 1/2" at side sean, and 1/2at ceater back waistline to nothing at neck. Draw straight line froa center of shoulder te, top of dart in front and back, and. make shoylder strap |/2" wide. | Oraf drassiere ae shown ay dotted lines and hark sections A to G. E together, and F and G together, aé i! lustrat a and Iv 11 Close up front dart Retnoen A. and B, std bring goction © and at breast point; then draw V-shaped Lines. for dar cree Draw the horizontal sean line as shown by dotted line; then This style brassiere is suitable for ladies and Separate as shown In diagram 1¥, lesee Sises, and’ extends tov i172" above. the For,cup shape fitting, slash between, A and C and spread 1" ¥ Mark grain Vines, add seans and nake corresponding notches.STRAIGHT SLIP DRAFT {For Undergarnent Drafting, ‘GOT wove WIND : jee Pages 86 to 68) Illustrations show slip with oointed ge Straight upper edge’ ovt lines Front.has 2 side darts for fitting, over the busts engthwise darts in front and back the garment a closer Titting vaist- fine. Trace front and back dress foundat ions ther reduce I /2""at side to nothing at Nips Draw straight line from center of shouider to'top of dart "in front and sek Draw side dart Lines, as illustrated. 1 Draw lower neck and armhole lines, as Shown by dotted Ince, making’ shatldee strap 5* Tong in front and 6 long tn back. Slash along side, dart tines; thon Close up trent dart 0 straighten cone fer Front Tines ur Draw Voshaped ines, 3 long, for each side Wart. straight lines down to re quired Tenath and \shape’ Botton, “aa Shown by datted lines. For straight wpe alge outline, square ine across from exiter front and Backs making underarm sean a Iletie highek fs TTustrateds Allow seams on all edges but center Front and’ back. w Diagram below shows cutting layout, for'stralyht slide The bias strips are for underfacing the neck and arahale edges. FOLD OF MATERIALPRINCESS SLIP DRAFT 95 STiusteation ehows princess slip,with hecki {ne about 6" lower at canter’ front and'?* Tower. at. conter back; armoie 71 2eepor than dress acahole, at OR 1 sing the dress (hip length) founda tionas's guide, trace front ‘and bac then “trace the’ darts. Draw straight line from center of Shoulder to°tap of cart in front and ack. "Bark sections A,8,C,0 and E. Reduce width of front and’ back 1/24 Biinust and waret to nothing at pip as shown Py dotted Ines. | n Woke neckline 8° towsr in front and FAowercin back, raw arahole 1-1 725 Jeepers Wake -snoulder steap 4* long from and 4 long. 10 dack~ Cut out front and back sections, and Separate! then ae shown in diagrai (11. Mate center front line straight by Weifoing” sectrons Aland B togethers Chabine Front and back part of shoul dor strap in one, mt Trace the 4 sections, Imaving enough Zpace for the. lower’ part of the si’ BNeique straight fines down to "ree hulred fengthi then shape totton, as Shown by dotted |ines. Draw arrows for grain lines by squaring from hiptine For a cyp shane {i Lting over the bust, Aig Peo front sect ont at breast point; than subtract 4% 3° below Breast potnt,as shown by dotted Vines. Shape upper vart of side front, about TBF" gonarce aruhole, as illustrated. GOT WOVE IND Complete pattern by-adding seans and aking corresponai ng notches. 6 Diagram below shows how to tay pattern on the’ goods. ho bias strips are for underfactne Aedktand armhole #8908. loner adge of slip way he finished wth nareaw RomeBIAS SLIP DRAFT SELVEDGE FRONT 96 A bias slip has several acvantagas, Sone of which arey It does not require a placket at the lett sidoyuhich efininates a sewing operation: ‘t molds better to the form aroune busty waist and hip, due to the mae PeeiaI"Being’on the'bias. 1 Trace frontiand back éress founda- fon" hip lenpeh}s then reduce at side and draw fines to shoulder in Yrant“and’ back, a6 Illustrated. in Draw lower neckline and armhole, as shown by dotted lines: then. divide Front and back in” 4 sections and ark then A, 8, Cand 0, Separate each section and close up front dart as shown in diagran itl Make shoulder strap in one parte Trace the 4 sections on ancther sheet OF paper, at towing enaugh room. for an entice tront and back, a "shown by. dotted Ines. Mack grain Lines and aake corres ponding notches. The bias strips are for lower edge binding. The upper front and.back sections may be ited. ‘SELVEDGE, The cutting diagrax above shows how to lay bias slip pattern on the goods. If piecings are required, they must be Taid on the sane lengthwise grain.DRAFT OF PAJAUA TOP CENTER| BACK FOLD WAIST UNE 7 Jacket is loose fitting, and features double Shoulder tucks In front. It may be worn tucked in, oF over the trousers. Arnhole is slightly deeper, and sleeve ic flat ath top of “cap, the seme ac tho mannish chet sleeves 1 Using the dress foundation as 2 guide, draw slash TTnes. for the tucks as indicated, Mark Sections Ay 8 ang C. ig Slash alone tuck lines and spread by closing up front “dart, and forming stralont center front Tne. Make Gne tuck 4" long and the other, $°3/4"- m Make shoulder 1/* longer, arnhole 1/4* deeper, and nake side wider ae Indicates Lengthen Jacket 1/2" below hipline at center Back and sige, to I* at canter fronts for front closing overlap, add 1* to center “iront; then lower the neck it at center fronts ‘curving the outline as indicated Ww Wark, positions for button and buttonhales, 4° apart. Draft pocket 4-1/2" X 4-1/2". For facings, in front and pack, draft as show by dotted’ ines. Add seams and hems; then mske corresponding sotches. ORAFT OF SLEEVE I Teace outline of jocket front, and mark soint A and'6 at side Seshae Ingleatea Locate soint ¢ on sige seam line by having A to eoeual TS oF Vine A= Bs then lotate yolnt Dt deepest art of arshola(about 2*from side soon); ‘then connect € to 0. : Trace lover part of armhole and upper part of side sean to Sososite efdevof fine C5 25° chown byrdotted Hfnessthen mark point Eas Indicates “ u Draft sleeve as foltons: NAF to G~ Equals everacm Jength. draw this line by continuing” chou te wrlete Sto ~ Envals 1/2 of wrist measure plus 21/2. H to E = Connect for underarm sean line. m Trace other hat of sleeve to opposite side of Tine FoC'as shown by datted tines 1 Make front part of sleeve cap 3/8" lover as In stented © nee THolteyre, dtl |ghtgrse in the sleeve cap, sag [erat each side of sieeve as shown oy "dotted faer Vine” “straight ‘Ade seams and hem; then make corresponding notches. CORRESPCNDING ARM MEASUREMENTS OVERARH (ENGHi| 2-174] 26-576 | 23 [2-3/8 |23-3/4! WRIST WEASURE| 6-1/4] 1/2 | @-374| 7 | 7-1/4] Misses sizes | 12 Jia [ie |g |ORAFT OF PAJAMA TROUSERS! PATTERN 98 Illustrations, show ankle _lenoth or short, trousers, 5 HatSIAG ke AI fel Feo dE, sin, eB, far of te Bras ction trace fot Fe efotc. goth in gajan trousers ually 1" ceener 4 (Be afegionos hole te bat Tne, Sleight actos than‘Tn Shasta or soon dear afore, ehareeste anges tance, "fran ta to E°in’ Siagran f+ "etuale efGteh dopth For ankle. Length trovsersy graft, according to the jun- sUostraset, plus G+ for Saal epaMMM Soot End HOTESEss Sea eT Sas! Ze Ts Tos] 7 ice [6 o -e S aes s72 7 | ERSTE BARTS TSRGTR Ato ¢ fis Wahis-W/era-ara] Ta) S W7ehieara] 14 la-a/a]_16_[t=1/al Ecuale crotch cepth (2 case’ tne! isea) 2 pl ine on dress foundation. € 2 af C to Es 7 6 72 of € fo F E 75 of E te Fh i fo'd, plus’2", raw this line fron # to Ky. touching Center back waistline of dress. foundat ion. K Braw st Tghtly curved line fron K to side" Seen, 1" gs at waistline, Comoe Draw guide, Vines from | mi FRONT OF SLEEVE / Y -----+ Center between WK. | k to ¥ = Connect. i Bray lve te tee fom eto co ISVS OHIEE pen,“ ar ol Traco Fron R°te‘y"to Wane pen paper. BACK OF SLEEVE For back of sleeve, repeat process of diagran | | x BACK DART j ‘i Ln opening the sleeve, the back edge becones o__ abou Te onaer than Front ease Draw V-shaped dart at cltow about 3 ITA widenDRAFT OF ONE PIECE SHAPED SLEEVE 3 (Special Measurement Method } The i Vustrat ions above chow how to take the fottoving arn measurements: Q 1, Underarm Length ~~ trom armiole to wrist. 3 2: Arm Circumference ~a little below armhols, : $: Elton Circunterence--~ with arm pent Ups ¥. Overarn Length == roa Shoulder to wrist. Wrist Circumference ~a loose masironent, Hon To oRarr THe suseve rowoarion, sizes 12 1020 VU ‘ Ie. slewve, draft provides for a 2";minioun ease a} ovance around the sha 5 ae igeror examples tt ae aedaatecant isettes toe sTS6 (Beatle theete Spattorn i ides"Or 6-1/2" from tere” ~sWhen drafting the sieeve, ine A-B should be directly in center of draft. : 1 SER ee JA to B{T%= 17a] 17-12] (7-3/4) 18 | 1-174] Equals Underarm lamin, ja tool 3/4 | 37a | 3a | aya | aya [Mark point C, on line AB” Dto ef 6 6-1/4] B-1/2) 6-3/4) 7 Je auals 1/2 of arm mmasure blue Is ease, Equals 172 of ne A Equals 172 ot Elbow Hasire, —| Square across at paint B, in definite lengte, for vristtine Ato +| e670] 8-374| B-7/al 9 | o-178) iH Stow 5 s-1/4l $172] 5-37 6. to K [apn 1/4 [20-078 | 23 |03-876|23-374 [Eaals Gverarn Length, thrauh Gand D] IL to W)ze-1/4]22-5/8[ 23 [23-3/a] 24-3 /4| Equals Qverarm Lenath:thraagh Fang F] tow = [Conect for tap of Sleove cap Tine TL. GUIDE LINES FOR SLEEVE CAP K toN - Equals 1/2 of tine K-¥. | D to R - Equals 1/2 of D-C. 10 Or aul 1/4 oF Nine KM. | y tos - Equals, 1/2 of WE, less 1/2", Mo P= eaunla 74 of fine wa | 22S = Ele, 72 Vi K to. ~ Equals 1/2 of K-D. Draw the guide fines fron 0 to 0 tof for tront of sleeves for back of sleeve, from P to § to T. SLEEVE CAP For top of cap, dean a curved Tine fron § to N to 0; Fron OFA $275 5"ahown by dotted {ices - 11. SHAPING THE SLEEVE Shape the draft of sleeve as fol lors: Py iat | for bottoa of cap, ELBOW LINE: ct UtoV~ favais 1/2 of wrist peasure.Draw this line 3-1/2" long for size Io; with T/B* grade tor each size, bringing polat Ve about 3/4 below Tine J-Lt ¥ tow - let! Yio ae or tine we UE agi Mt lete the st fol fi 7 G, and "| presisteatate fle eau ee 9 Ine Ge aa rae ren Pete v AND 2 Repeat process tor tracing back of sleeve as shown by dotted lines; then Gonvert the extra tenath St elvow (about I=1/4" by making 2 V-ahapsd ‘dort ‘about 3° long’ for size 16 (with 1/8" grade for each sia). To complete sleeve pattern, allow seans. ba) q ONE PIECE SHAPED SLEEVE WITH 3 ELBOW DARTS he feature of this sieeve 1 that it is ellghtly more shaped than the sleeve with the Single elbow dart. For the 3. 1 loo, acts, agf1* to back edge of slaeve by 1g ihe “eldow “line, from back to tront, and reading I at elbow. 1 the, 9 darts by first drafting the center dart, 3/4% x tnehen graft the other 2 darts,one above,and the other tne center dart) as shoun by dotted Tinessa--18' breast nota ORESS FOUNDATION WITH EXTENDED SHOULOER HOW TO A0JUST DRESS FOUNDATION FOR BROADER SHOULOER ano SLIGHTLY DEEPER ARMHOLE [wstration 1 snows armhole of dress at sormal post- Healt Hoa gh fare fae dotted ine" nates a gllgntly broader” shoulder. ‘outline, “this selma soetala Feakire’in’orsctscaTly att typos ef barupnaae _ A garment having the armhole extendiny peyond. the normas position on the shoulder, reaui res padding. Tne. broader, the.snoulder, the greater the need for tne pasuing” =D) 0ran T shows dress foundation adjusted for the broader shoulder and slightly deeper” smbsle. es indi cated’ oy dotted lines. the wath across front and ack at Sustline should oe maintained ws Shown in the diagrams Jo adjust pattern, trace front and back: then draft. shout - ders about! i/2" binader and armhole 1/4! deeper, Extens side seams Slightly” to maintain the width across front and back st oust ine’ 1" Miustration If shows dress with broader shoulder cut acearding “to, the "adjustea” pattern (pad. should. be. te serted “lor “ti tting). A” gareent naving’alianily. brosuer Shoulders” aiso nas 'nre woth acroas Seek, snd theretore Grvas greater treecon for actions For shoulder dart in front, stash from center of shoulder then close’ yo front dart, foralng’straigst center front Tie’ as Shown Yn dagtan IT: id ur [ilustration 111 shows cl eeve mage to conform with: the broager shoulder and slightly deeper atshol a > Sloove has extra ease allowance in cao to allow shoulder pad to extend 1/2" or 3/4" beyond gesholer Dragran TIT shoas can of sleave foundation adjusted for the 174" " dueper” arshole. For additional oase te eietee cap (totalling 2-1/2" ease), ‘draw slach lines ae ftiase trated: ‘then’ “stash and” sptead-39 shows In ai sora fas aInis wilt “raise the cap abort 1/2" higner, and efden INE ‘slesve about 1/2" at arm (bicep) W Civide, cach side of sleeve cap into 2 equal parts, and \ daabepte Telth’ ef eles The at "give the postion for \ease'in’sleeve cap between ef retos. For materials such as velveteen or corduroy, vse the original “sleeve foundation, because of the ai ffieut ty oF easing in the extra allowance for fulness, HOW TO WAKE A SHOULCER PAD FOR THE ORESS rand 1 Guta dianond shaped piece 7°x ?* in silk ot rayon: then s{nsert cotton batting and thin it aut towards hen fotnt” wen tn edges and sl{psti ten ny Tack pad to shoulder and arshole seams, Ellustration at right shows position of pad starting 2* from neckline and “extending 1/2" ar 9/4 neyoad arshole.,” as indicated’ by dotted 1inosDRESS SHOULDER PAD (2 Styles) i: > A Na " eesodl_p Royo » NOR TO DRAFT PAD FOR THE SET-IN-SLEEVE lake shoulder pod fad. should be abou! ‘inished. atten in. 8 sections. Tse thiek aE center outer end,unen 1 and tr Draft top section of pad as. fol low: Fgh to 2g! for size Te celta St grade for each size). "to C~ 4". This equals half of A tog. C to 0 - 4-3/4" for size I6, with 178" orade for each 2 sizes, h to D ~ Sonnect. 0 to. B= connect; then draw curved lines as shown in Siagran’ 31. praft center section of pad as fol lows: fo Pag attor size 1e(alth 178M" grade, tor each size. to = S18 torr, fe H = 2-174 to 1 = T1748: This represents the thickest part of pad. Then draw curved lines as shown in agra Il Thig equals nal? of 8 w AQAUSTING PATTERN FOR SHOULDER PAD Finally deaft potton of paa ag fol low JHOK-'6-3/4" for “size 16(with 178" grade for each EF 2104 = Hevbe ne cauate nett of a to 4. : TASH = Si tor’ alte 1Go'witn' tar orbae for each 2sizes. 14S Connect’ HAOMT connect! then deaw curved lines as shown 10 aiagrae a! nar To complete the pattern, allow sears (about 1/4") to the edges as indicated; then make corresponding notenes and ark sections 1, 2 ang’ 3. ry How TO ADJUST PATTERN FOR SHOULOER. PAD Raise shoulder "in. frontend back about 1/4" at outer Bart, to” nothing at centervot shoulder. Make shoul der W/e""wider; make armhole 1/4" deeper; make underarm sesh 174" wider’ at top"to nothing at bottom: Adjust sleeve pattern ag follows. Raise cap about 1/2" ‘then’ ‘widen sleeve "1/2" vat "are to nothing at Dolton: Deepen"cap at each side about 1/4". ; a £8, ae Ir Ww EDGE HOW TO MAKE THE PAD 1 jew section 3 to sections 1 and 2, taking up 1/4 seans. 0 Gut crinoline interfacing sane as section 3,trinming off mpsan si lovance,atouter eape: Basie’ fo wrong’ sige of cec~ Ption 3. Turn right siae out as shown in clagran Ve vr SHOULDER EDGE w facing: then cut 4 nore ‘ayers, each 1/2 smaller along the shoulder esges. Arrange in sosition as Illustrated. Slip cotton patting vetween edges of pad,and shepe, thin ning cotton to nothing at shoulder edges. vw Stitch pag about 1/2" in fron raw edges, then overcast. 11 ane IV vit , a layer of cotton batting sane as crinoline inter- | Showing finished pad ~~ Kimono fiagian Dropped Sleeve Sieve Shoulder FOR ROUNDED SHOULDER PAD nis pad is eapecial ly suitable for the dress with kimono sleeve, raglan sieeve or dropped shoulder ‘sleeve design For the rounded pad, add an oval shaved piece to the Mrequiar‘dress pad at £01 lows: Land Ir raft an oval shaped section, 5-1/2"K 7", as indicated, hen cut Immaterial on the Sia; MII and 1¥ ‘through center, inserting layer of Whip raw edges togethers Lap oval section to dress pad avout 9/4" in fron outer edge of pad at” center, to nothing at each ends AND to ae easing In fulnesse Fold oval section cotton batting. u Showing finished pas.DRESS FRONT FOUNDATIONS (With Shoulder Dart, Shoulder Tucks, or Side Dart) 16 STYLE | - With Shoulder part I= Using the dress front foundation. to waist- Hine onty!mark position for dart fron con ter ot shoulder "to Breast point; then mark sections and 8. T= Slagh on dart ine; then close up front dart Yo" form shout der darts IIT = Draw Voshaped dart, from shoulder sean to about 2° above Breast pointe STYLE 2 - With Yost = Using the shoulder dart foundation, draw lines feos. shoulder dart to center Tronts 6 above waistline. Mark eeetfons A and 8 IT ~ Cut out shoulder dart; then slagh to center Front, separating” the vest section, Nghe a 2 lehgth pleat along the waist dari lines TIT ~ No seams are allowed, SNS 5 ® STYLE 3 = With Double Shoulder Tucks Mark oat on. fo, ekg on dress foundation as shown by dotted lines, Mark sections Brandt. IT ~ Slash along the tuck lines, and spread to form caval: size ‘tucks, making. a strai ont Genter front line, and élosing uo the tront Garts Yake a V-neck, 5* bolow high neck line. ~ Mark the tuck’ lines ae illustrated. STYLE 4 ~ With Side Dart Fitting “Mark position tor side dart fron side sean, 2-1/2" below armhole, to Breast points, thea fark’ seetions A'and 8. = Slash on side dart line; then close up front Sart to fore the side dart, "algo making. a Straight center front line, = Draw'V-shaved dact, fron side seam to about 2* From breast point. STYLE 5 - With Pleated Side Section = Using the side dart foundation, mark _pesi- Hon for the two pleats; then fark sections On = Cyt out, the sigevand waist aarts to separate the front and sido’ SectTone: then slash along the pleat Tines and “spread for’ the side pleats. = Indicate the pleats with notches. No seams are allowed.sme | STYLE a DRESS FRONT FOUNDATION (Dartless Front, Pin Tucks at Shoulder, Neck Darts, ete.) 7 Breast Point ur STYLE | - Dartless Front IIlustration shore front without darts. Pattern is so cut, that the darts are eliminated, The artless front foundation way be used. tor styles sade in soft and thin materials, and 0 Tit the loss mature {igure only. I= Using the drecs front foundation to walet~ Tine’only, draw lines. {rom breast. point to eck and armhole as shown” by dotted lines, Wark sections A, 8 and Cs Ht ~ Blagh on, dotted lipes and close yp front dat, aking” the spread at neck 1/4" leaving the Fenainder of the soread at armhole. IIT ~ Indicate the spaces at nock and arahote with gotehesyandiwith “dotted tines trom armhole Pin tucks are used nainly in sheermateriats, euch ao georgette, oft tion, cheor crepes, eter and thettucks cai be mode" on right or wrong side of T= Using, the dartless front foundation, draw theless ck fing Tei/a" tn trom noche Bran’ renaining tuck lines 4/4" aparts Tt = Cutout arahote dgcts then slash on tuck Tines and spread (/4*"at shoulder for 1/8" pin'tucks, “fais “wilt reduce part of the fulness at armholes TIT ~ Make Length of tucks as shown by dott: aking. the first tuck 4" Jongrand 1! each succeeding tuck. ri fq Regular Meet Ine 1 - Trace dartiass front foundation; then raise ngeke (tab center fronts and” lower ‘neck Tt shoulder. TT = Draw.a curved Slash line from, center front at higher neck, to shoulder I" below neck= Tine." ark Sections: A and B. TI = Slash along dotted line between A and B from getter iran‘ to shoul gers Hhan,falSe Sect an eo that the upper fine will be at ri aagte tothe conter trent Tine. . This will provide the allowance for the drape. ‘Add 1" hem across the top as shown by the cottea lines, STYLE 4 ~ Nack Darts I= Trace tho dartiess front foundation; | then draw lines for the darts as shown by” dotted Tines. “Wack sections A “to 3. TT ~ Gut gut the,armole darts then elash along the S'dart lines, and spread sections B, ani, 1/2" at neck, for 17" darts, For center front dart, draw line 1/4" In ftom center front al néck, down to a point oP Belew neck! ine. Lower the neckline I* evenly all around. HIT = Draw Y-Shaped lines for the neck darts in- Gieating top of darts with notches. STYLE 5 ~ Neck Gathers [lust ration, shows gathers at neck, (the space being about 2* cach Side of center front). 1 Using the dartiecs front foundation, draw 2 slash lines. as shown by dotted lines; then Bark sections A to De IL - First cut out the ambole and waist, dacts: then siach alongdotted tines from neck down, and spread for neck gathers, closing up the darts’at armhole and watst. 311 = Diagram shows completed front pattern. The 2 gathering lines near neck edge, are bout 1H Spark.COM, NECK DES INS 8 The diagrans etow show how to al tow fulness In front. for single, double, ar triple drape cow! neck, sia Front Garltess or front dart) aia guide. the dress foundation SINGLE ORAPE u au 7 INOW! BINED WAISTUNE. ooo am (ORL NECK WITH SINGLE ORAPE Lilustration shows blouse, with high neckline rape fnfront, Heektine ts |*" tower at shoulder Using the dartiess front foundation, draw Strarght Tine. froa a point on siinulae? Seam, 17 Below neckline, to center front neck Marie gosition for drape allowance by drawing a _curved line. from shoulder to neck, and. making Section A'anout TY wide at deepest part of curves 1 First draw squared lines; then slash front be= tweon Sections A and B, and spread, placing frail glong the squared’ Tine “as Iilustrated Trace Front to waistline only: UL This diagram shows completed front. Allow seans on all edges but center front. DOUBLE DRAPE uu vo oe WAIST INE =—al = un ‘COWL NECK WITH DOUBLE DRAPE Llustration shore blouse with neckline 1* loner all Shoulder, and’ 4" loner at center front. Use the regular hio-length dress fountation as a guide, ‘Grass straight line fron shoulder to Getter front for loner neck. Wark pos!tions. (or ~irage al lonance. as shown by dotted lines. 1 Draw. savared lines: then slash front sections: Ab and C) and spread tor aray anew, placing front along. the squared TMiugratea:” Trace Front to waistline For best results, front with he‘cut™on the Biag of goods. between eal lowe con! neck should COM, NECK WITH TRIPLE ORAPE 1 lise the rewlar hip length foundation as a guide. Draw tine for lower neck,and nark positions for drape Bi lowance insane manner as described fabove for the cowl “neck with double drapes 1 Draw sauared lines; then glash frant, and spread gestions A,'8. and c."before placing front. sion the gauared {ines. Make sure’ that Sections A, and C'touch the squared Tine ae Illustrated. uL Diagram shows front completed. Seams are to be allowed on all edges but center Front.HIGHER NECKLINE AND PLEATED COWL NECK DESI GHS 19 Hlustration shows front and higher pleats at waistline. 1 FBsino the dress front to waistline, Pasi pleat az shown, in diagra t HIGHER NECKLINE DESIGN 7 foundation to vaist!ine only, as a fyulde, mark position for the first pleat from front dart and close up front dart to spread for the cp mm Pe Mark position for the second plant about 2° from first pleat. neckline in one,with } “For nigher geckline draw line from A to B, then sauare {a tine’up 1° fo ¢ ay to D- 1/4"; then connect D to 8. A to E = 5% then draw curved line froa D to ¢ ta E, first 1 “Allow seans, and nake notches at pleats. Etech darts, ¥ and 1749 at neck and. reducing 1/2" by dotted lines wr yt Heaps H rT = Ulustration shows back view of higher neckline ca Use dress back foundation a8 a guide. Feegior neck dart, first draw now center back line by adding at waistline, as lake neck dart 1/4" wide and 3* |ong, 1-1/2" from canter back.” For higher neckline, éraft pattern as follows: F to G~ 1%, Continue center back line ups Hto T= 1's Be sure. that the distance from 1 toG is 1/8" Tess! “than tne distance tron il to Fy sinus the dart, siding | ¥ Continue the dart’ above the neckline to a point. wu Add seams on all edges but center back. ESPie stitched pleate at shoulder hold 1 ark sections A, 8 and C. fash along pleat, lines; then close PLEATED COWL NEGK DESIGN mmq!'Wustration shows cor! neck abovt 8" dem at center front. Ising the dress front foundation as a guide, mack lon’ for the pleats and Veneck as shown by dotted linens Petoread between hy Band € acvshown in diagram Tf. a Mark pogitioi for the drapes, as shown by the dotted nes. "lake pleat tines aoaut 3°" tong. i ur {| Stash along drage lines from center front to shoulder and Spread so that the ower potats of "aections fy 8 and'¢ Tenet ene sdtared outline, Ww For post results, front with onthe bias of gosdss ‘the drapes in posi tic Wo front dart and, cowl neck should be cutFRONT WITH YOKE DESIGNS ~ THREE STYLES struc 1 1 Using the Stan Hine cottea Ine, ress front Fram armhole to. Mark Sect Tons 1 along line fron arahol. wand By Stach 1 Draw the yoke and tuck lines, +88 shown by dott Mark sections A, 8, C and D. Slash along dotted lines of aetna tush ka tNED, close} Trace yoke and front sections; then ark the tucks about Pagifort dart to spread” for the tucker as Mews 8 Se{PNRg, AtG Seams on all odges bul center Feent es Wagran ITs Bection'B. pe =) foundation to waistline front. “dart, as shown je to front arty 9 front dart, spreading A and 8, a8 Ilfustreten, onl ‘then close fed Hinass Qrau.a stralgnt Vine for yoke sean line, fron arshole fovcentar’ front, 2-1/3 "aeeveraai sth $ Fes’ "then ‘shit armhole dart’ toward the yoke sean’ ik Draw neckline paraitel to yoke seam line; vide, "Reduce 17" at waistline betucch together, as shown in diagram cr” nr yoke section as illustrated; then trace aking yore 5* CoB and bring Comp iote and add seams, n onplate the yoke section, eaking the diagonal part of i devand n172s"pastcentog Pane! Pach anothor 1 Zor" at walstl ina belasea Bass E'S, tovee Obther, aa shaun hn alageas wie m1 STYLE a (Surptice Front) 1 eotteg HI¥SE BOK Line about 8-1/0" tong, ag Gotted Tine. change, tre yoke sean line, as ilfustrateds Wack sbet ttn SpREN4# [OM dotted Vine of yores then close up Spread betwesn Avand 8, 35 Snows in°diagean PP shown, by front dartto poiat toward the” | RandB. ! dart to J n Praw diagonal lines of section A ta waistline, as shom by dotted Tines, "making Tt 4* wide: 7 Reduce another "1/2" at waistline between Band Cand, bring together, as chown”in diagram itis ur Atlow scams on all edges and make corresponding notches.shows by dotted lines. Mark Slash along dotted lines; th hen close up darts at front./ SLASH GATHERS IN FRONT at un (4 “AOHOLE SLASH GATHERS aul paistl ing: soreadigg between £8 and-C for fulness, | r 1. t F Using the dress. front foundation to waistline only, ‘ i Gran stash Tine fron armole (sl gnély claatinels ehee, een ae eterna etoul des and Eaten | divige it into 3 parts and draw 2° ines down t9 Be eat \ Vine, as illustrated. Reduce 172" at the waistline, as un Allow geass on al! edges but center front, and cdge'of armhole slash, which is to be deund. ‘SLASH GATHERS NEAR WAIST LINE 1 reduces “at wgittl ine, ab Sections A,B and Ce Stash along dotted lise from the side; then slash along dotted Ines tron walst! ine up. Cut avay reduction at side of section Cy ‘shown’ by dotted Tines. Marke Draw slash line fron side sean, as illustrated; then?) lose up front dart to apread for fulness; then bring it Sections Band © togetier: Draw neckline as shown by dotted tines. ut Allow seans on all edges but center front, Leaving on ‘25 much sean as possible at the slashed ages SLASH GATHERS AT ARMHOLE AND LONER SIDE t Draw the 2 slash tines; as, described for the 2 upper problens; then draw vertical slash lines ang reduce’ st, faisty'as Illustrated, Mark sections A, By and Ds a Slash on dotted lines; then close up front dart and bring sections B and C' together. ; i y Draw V-neckline, ag shown by dotted line. tt Soread section D, about I", for necessary additional} | fulness. | NOTE: The edge to be gathered,should measure about |-1/2 | tires, he Yfenath ofthe" staig’ouaen. or Chorale, | therpiarn edge'ts 8 ‘Yong, the edge to fo" gathered shouldbe at Teast 7-1/2" tongsFRONT GATHERS, 2 STYLE 1 1 Gut cut fronts then slash and close up darts*to spread lower neckline 1/2%; then dray yoke line 2* below and’, for Telness between 8, Evand De parallel to shovlder and neckline, Reduce 1/2* at waistline, as shown by dotted | ine: Divide curves part of yoke into 3 equal parts and ¢raw a 2 lines down ast Ilustrated, Hark sections A,6,C aad Dr Allow seas. Make corresponding notches. S u ‘STYLE 2 Cut out front and separate yoke; then slash and a a : Balk, See AP ea lower neckline 1/2"; then draw yoke tine, below For overiap in yoke, extend I* at center front and SEE ‘make rounded outline. eae panes ors sige atesedauatee antic elas ct ee tline, as illustrated. Divide yoke TOTES pTage"ahe fo ,be, gathered should me: Vine into 6 ogual parts,and arahoie into 3 parts; then '~!/@ times the length of the plain edge. aray lines from yoke to'darts and armole, a3. shown by am cotted Tines: "Wark sections Ato Fr. Allow for seans and wake corresponding notches. ‘STYLES, : i i i : | Gut ut tronts ther siaah alow dotted Nes and close Drae sayaro nect| ine: then fontinue ling down 1* {con =ebetfant andtantet"abrtg" shngigetteg ioe ard slasee ||) fontor'frontTand across toca} Shown'by! gotten fogelher, Spread betweni By Er Pana for “hecessary | || Lines, Reduce |" at tne waistline, as illustrated. eee eee ee i Divide section A in 4 parts and amthole in 3 partst aH | then age stings feop"aection A, as thown'by SO4t0d Seoarate the front sections: then allow seane and make | | Tinga. "adrk suetfons’h £6"! sereeesadlna tenseFRONT GATHERS: Fy sie Draw Line froa center front side, 2¥ above waistline. Reduce 1* at the waistline, as shown by then dca “2 ITtes'down tok armhole, 36 Wark Seet ions Ato E. 1 4" above mn Uy ie 1 Stash along dotted tines; then close up front a S,, sobelag feeckions 8 and'€ fouether.”“Soread btw ‘and E for necessary additional fulness, waistline, to} Cut ayay reduction at side of section C. eottes tines: ur TTlustrated:” Separate the 2 sections: then add seams and make cor responding notches. un up. front dart, spreading between B and C for part of STYLE 2 the fulness at’ tops 1 Soread between sections © and D about 1* for addition: Pray yoke Iinesyas illustrated; then draw 2 lines down {less at top and bottom, Draw V-neckl ine, as shown {rom yoke, as shown by dotted lines. ark eactions Ar DY dotted lines. 8, C and 6. nr nu Allon, seans and aake corresponding notches. Add saan Cut out Front and stash along dotted lines; then close _gls0"to center front af yone. 1 sTYLe 3 1 Dray, V-neck! ine; then continue line from v-neck to waistline for front ‘section, as shown by Reduce 1/2" at the waistline, as illustrated, .---” Slash tront section along. dotted tines: front dart. = Divide armhole in 3 parts, and eide sean in 3 parte: then draw slash Ines’ into’ shovider, armhole, and side seam, as illustrated: an Slash atong dotted Lines and spread necoceary anbunt. for gathers. Allow seans and nake corresponding notehes. dotted Tinesy? then close up, /DRESS BACK DESIGNS ~ THREE STYLES Ey ur y y . Y y | | VA ur o sive | 1 (se ress te fantstion to wsitine only as see h SHES TPSGG0" TSS nea Sino” Besse aectGse—Sasnteoke eesti, fram angen fash aloo gat seams’ and make corresponding notenes. ay then Ato £. Slash along yoke line and down to dart sivie 2 | A pettean ¢and 0; then cage up dart, spreading at top i | Mor"part of fulness. ‘ace back’ foundation and draw yoke and bustlines, | { shown py dotted Tines. i uw } Separate yore; then stash along dotted tines fron top “frauen, ls at tne waistline, then continue stash/ to" battomrand’spread tor nececsary addi tional Fulnose’,/ Tine" to yoke 28 Vilustrateds “had Seanse a NOTE: The edge to de gathered should measure at least Divide back section below yoke Into 4 varts and mark Iv 1/4 tines the Tongth of the plain cages um 7 0 STYLE 8 Slash along lower seam line and pring sections A and 8 together for the fitted lower back, Cut away redvetion 1 at side of section Trace back foundation; then draw bustline, and the mu lower seam line, as illustrated, Slash fron, lower edye to arnhole between C ane D: then! Reduce at waistline in 2 places, as shoun by dotted Spread. fat additional fulness, ae. Waccribes fof “the lings. "raw slash" Iine Tron arshole downy thennark above style. Allow for seans and make corresponding sections A,"B, Gand De notches.DRAFTING A PATTERN WITH A SIDE DART, SHOULDER DART, OR DARTLESS FRONT FOUNDATION Ww The above dlagrans show 4 tyoes of foundations used in various arwant factoviess The'dlaarans below show now the sano ctyle (as illvstrated on the ipurel can Se ataftod by using the Sido dartrahoulast ant or-dactiess frent foundation as a wider and attain the nome: resutt. SIDE DART Fouiber ion These four steps chow how to draft pattern, using the sige dart foundation as a guide for measurenents and other details for style 2. ’ f a " ‘SHOULOER paRT FOUNDATION Lf shoulder dart foundation is to be used, these four giagrans show how to draft the pattern for the sane styler (Rote fos part of the fulness for gathers is al lowed, by closing wp tke Shoulder dart}. OARTLESS FRONT OUNDAT GN A, ,dartless front foundation has a larger armhole than the other foundations, as"Indieated by the notches: Diagrans 11 and Litshow how to reduce the fulness at arshole, by Bringing the notches, together, thus creating part of thé FUlness for gathars at the yoke Sean TiesYouu RAFT OF FULL LENGTH ORESS FOUNDATION un ° ~onsgyy Z [Mlusteation shows shoulger dart ip Tront, waist darts. in frant ang” dack OF godhecyand waist carte in back of skirt Dress hee about 8" ease around bust ane 2" ease around” pip (7 pelow Maist), Waistline is close Hitting. 1 Use the nip length aress foundation as a. guide and trace frong-and cack {3 waistline only (about 8" apart); thea"trace fp sections about 2° be Tow'walst{ine: Hark sections & to Be n Raise hip and waistline 2/4* at side, Gradually to nothing at center of Hid Sections ee shown by dotted tines, Qraw shoulder dart line fron center Of "shoulder to" Deeast point; then Slash and close up center trent dart, spreading for choulder dart as show in diagrae Tar. nm For ckirt, continue straight lines donn “below the hip sections, to ree Ted fenothy. Orawe fo x Ski tfmaking the curved fine paral lel fo the carvea nipfines ° y Draw voshaped gart in front, from shoulder” down to a point stabove Breast point For close fitting waistline, reduce ‘BU sige seans. of skirt and raising Naleiline “W78!_ 9¢ “sige as shown by Gottes lines. Eliminate. the dart 10 Tront of skirt. Make waist dart in bodice front 1/2! Wider at “waistline, and reduce 1/2° Bt sige of naistiine in Gack as shown by dotted 1Thes. To complete the Tull length dress Toungation, allow a zt hem at cotton of skirts then add seass an al! sewing 2dges and make corresponding notches: Foyer edge, (of... INGH BIND | eure _| CENTER BACK,PRINOESS DRESS OR HOUSECOAT a IMlustration shows garaent with sauare neckline and Sifde. fast ener closing in Tront, For house= Boat aake pattern ankle length. 1 Velng the dress (hip sength) foundation as a guide, arart pattern as follows! Divide front into two parts, A to B = Equals front shoulder. A to C = Equals 1/2 of shouleer. © to D = Draw line fro € to D, at top of dart. u Divide back into two parte. E to F ~ Equal A to C on Front shoulder. F to G = Draw ting from F te 6, at top of dart. h = Center between F-6. f to J = Equals B to Con front shoulder. J to H = Connect. ‘Slash front from shoulder, to point D and close up front’ dart“ Beit liustrated. Mark grain ling arrows parallel 19 center front and back: nt Cut out, front sections and trace about 8" apart Continue straight, Vines down to required fength; then sbape bot fom'asshown by dotted tines. ~ For additional flare at bottom, add "2" \to'each sean edge at Bottos,to nothing at waist tine. Draw slightly curved, Line In side ssctien of front at point 0+ raw square necktine, as shown By dotted tines. ‘GOT Wave BIND Ww Trace back sections and con. tinue straight tines own; th Graw pottos line. as deseribed for the front section. Joress_ length) Draw slightly curves line at“| v point 6 ' Alton sears to complete “the pattorneEVERING GOWN DRAFT eB ‘GATHER THIS EDGE mn ‘GUIDE UNE FOR STH OF BINDING CENTER FRONT 2: Evening om features ‘ott the stout eer neckline. ur ang 47 Nochedge To triened sith a gathered ruffle Teaeta the, {orndation 25 alatiine only: then for close . og lwsiscl eat acts watet aett $n Fick 1/2 wfuces The fitting aver the bust, in front Le aided by two darts | | gratrebucelastelilagets RSet VES: (Sar Ohbud/Sy SOULS at side, and one cart under the ruffle “hast! above the 7 fs att ananiae ean oY au bust. Skirt is circular with the fulness cletrivuted evenly all around. When ‘Lata’ out fiat, "skirt. forme a complete raw side dort: lines as indicat, and mark sections to € Slash glong the srt lines and spread by closing vp She'center" frost anc‘satst aarisse Scan 1 S1opra8 $8, Ine Sucdirts, shuld by soaced eherly when spread apres Uae each tare SP shorter shad ete Trace. the. tip.sections of the foundations, and divige 22h" sett fon"neS'S aqua tances nek seb lone’ rts ee For close fitting waistline draw V-shaped |ines,frcr waist to hipline, taking out spect fied anount 1 Finess Hl i 1 Using, the hip Length srese foundation, draft the loner neck Pine sa, Indleateds Draw shoulder strap iines In front and back, mekin strap 3/4" wide. : ql Make strap ‘one piece as shown in diagram r¥. Bring together F to Grand G to H as shown in diagram 1v. ps3 Draft length of neck dinding to equal the distance fron.’ Repeat for sections IJ-K. I Setar Aone te, canter Bade ol Ingi cated: This. olves ee lovariacshstalt fesse deste sane iain nding. suf tieten 0" Fi’ aroune the Suter 0 ing the skirt, front, make slashes in hip sec- part of the arms oer ie tin "froa"hip fo waist! ine.éna spread, placing the hip Make corresponding cotches at neckedge and binding which section agalnet the square as indicated. IT also indicate the sewing positions. for the "shoul= De ath rotile atwide and 3 tines the ler ‘i clon “hip. as"-shown by’ dotted tines; then dra circular Brains: reg ee eee eden ertcene eet Vine at’ bottom. ‘Repeat process for back of “skl rts | | Mae fot fear levath sict,contique straight {Ines don te- | | | | ‘CHART SHOWING COMPLETED PATTERN SZBLOUSE WITH YOKE snowing rao) 1 SELVEDGE | 'SELVEDGE Draw lower biause line, 8° Bolow waist ine. Ngleeve is 3* long at under= {rn seas ang IP narrower at Botton, Draw straignt. tine 4 back yoke between D and for shoulder pads a This blouse features an inverted pleat in back - Slightly broader shoulders = Striped material with yokes, Blovee is hipe length (8% below waistline! and is Worn tucked into the ski ete Tne darts in front and back are joined below waist Hiaevoaty. pocket and sleeve To draft blovae, use front, back, and leave of dress foundation’ ac a guide. I ako stouldérs 1/8" broader,’ as shown by sot Draw yoke Vines in frogt and back by squaring. across chost Tine! infront, 3" below neck; and. sauaring a across from center back, 4" below neck. ia Draw slash line for gathers In tront, fron eeator of yoke to breast point; then Bark sections A to Fe 1 Separate yoke from front ang backs. then close Ua" dart Siash front on line betwoes B and C'fron yoke to breast point,and spreac for gathers by'cldsing up front dart. for front closing overlap, aed 3/4 to. center frante then mark posi tian for but tons "and "battontotes, 3 apart, beginning the fiFst at genter of yoke: Natk position for corras- Bonding notenes at yoke seats, Sleeve and armno ts ~ Place yoke sections, “shoulder ts Shoulder; tien draft shout der,pad’ as: sown by dotteo ur Wark position for a 4" x 4° pocket, 2 from eonter front and 2*’below yokerthen trace. Allow seas on ati sections: thon’ add hens and a pleat as, TiMstrated. Gutting layout to the Left 1 shows pattern pieces Iai d-on ane way striped material, 36" weer \BLOUSE WITH PEPLUM (Front and Collar in One} 0 \ un ‘ Ailustration shows front view of blouse,vith front ang \ | Cut out front agd slash along highar waistline; then Collar invone, and pleats at higher waisel ine. bring sections “Cand D topether, and trace. Close up | Front dart and trace. Awake front It, widar for overlap at center front, and | I i Nags collar, 1 wide, from shoulder to center back “as i Use dress front foundation (hip, length), ac a guide. J Shown by dotted lines, : Redves I at the waistline, a shown by dotted fines. ~/ mH Draw higher waistline at. center front to nothing at Add seans and aake corresponding notches.Mark sosi tion” side. for the 2 pleats at waistiine. © a facing for front and cotlar as shown by dotted Draw lover hipline to nothing at side. Wark sect ions a8, er ana Oe iH w v " IMustration shows back view of blouse, with darts at neck, and pleats at waistline. " Hie ah nasney eetthetr H | 7 Then, extending the cantor bach Ile 1/4" af necks gee the back sections, allowing for ceang on all edgesSLEEVE DRAFTING 30 —a wand 1h IJlustration shows sleeve gathered into a wristband, Fiest trace front art of sleeve and open; then trace i vider back of sleove. Trace sleeve draft according tg the outline of the draft on page W2, dingramviy then draft Sleeve for thiestyle as Shown ty dotted tines. w Make wristband 1 wide and the requi red length (about Ps72" tor size I6)-A\low seans on all edges of sleeve fad bands Band $e ueval ly mage double. i Justration, ‘shows sleeve gathered at top and potter witha cuff 3° wrae, 1 First trace sleeve draft as described for Style 1; then draft sleeve for this style as shawn by dotted tines. iy Trace and open sleeve; then draft 1/2 of cuff as it lustrated (the entire cuff is about 12* long far size 16). hand 1 Divide top of cap into 4 parts and draw dotted as illustrated. Mark sections Ato Fe Slash from top to totton and spread atout I* at top of each slash. Allow seams on all odges of sleeve and cuff. 1 FRONT Mlustration shows bell sleeve about 3/4 length. 1 [pace the outline of the sleeve draft se, described for Siete Teche ‘drat the° vel sfeove as" shown by dotted 7 ir Trace and open front part of sleeve, fa Trace and open back of sleeve:then draft shaved trin- ing band aa Illustrated. Ww Trace banc; then allow seaas on all edges. Mark grain Ihe arrow.SLEEVE ORAFTING MAH ——S fpr. \ Mlustration shows 2-piece shaped sleeve. 1 Trace slege draft according to the outline of the draft on page 2, diagram VI- then shape sleeve below elbow, a5 Bhdwn sy dotted lines. 7 Oran the under sleeve sean lines within the sleeve as To complete the upper sleeve, trace the front and back part as shown by dotted lines. ” Trace each ssction; then add seams and aake notches. Cut out sieeve in material and first join back seam, casing in between notches at elbow, - <—» ‘Sketch shows the Zpiece sleeve with 3 darts at top 1 Use the 2-piece sloave of Sty! upper slecve, -and-nark dots! 2¥ each side of noten. 0 Draw slash ines as shown by dotted tines,and mark se Hons 'A'to €. 1 as aqiide; then trace Moot shoul aor UJ TT ana ‘TV Cut along stash lines from top domn; then across to the .Sides,ang Spread eventy at top for the 3 darts,raising the séctions. I, for /* extension at shoulder.” Draw Vesnaped darts,'I* Tong, ‘between slashes, to complete sleeve pattern: {Ilustration shows ipigce shaped sleeve with dart back from elbow to wrict. I Use the reguiar I-piece shaped sleeve as a divide lower edge into 4 equal parts, 11 Draw line fron elbow dart to third point at tower edge. andnark sections Avand By in\ \ vide; then / mm Slash between A and B; then Piivsteated. Draw pointed outline 2s shown by dotted lines. w Allow seams and ake corresponding notches at dart Sean to conplete the sleeve, close up elbowSLEEVE ORNFTING 2 | Sleeve with 3 darts at shoulder. Mae m {Slash cap on dotted fines, and spread sections as il- : iMlustraeeti? raising ehelsecelong {L1/2*"at center, and « Eegggrlgeg tvnetiostnn nae 9 dots ot ton of cys | SIVGANES ney ak Spot thes darts Draw sath Lines as shown by dotted lines,and mark secz// Draw Veshaped darts‘aout I" long to conolete the sleeve. u =| Sleeve vith 9 darts at shoulder. “ 1m Thig style has slightly more fulness at top than the 3; ‘stash cap from top down, and across to the sides; then dart sleeve. : .aproad the sections gyesly at, top for the S darts, rais~ rage sleeye foundation and mark 5 dots at top of cap,.”1 1M@ Sections A to H 2° at center. TPB apart. x ciate Ww a i Draw slash lines as illustrated and nark section A ta J,./ To complete sleeve, draw 5 V-shaped darts atrut !* long. fe floor sith aan oathorn at aniulder. alt and, dra dotted line atiohtly curved as itTustrax~ ed. ‘Hark sections A to F. mr | Teagg.steeve foungation; “the araw the shoolder section? *, Slash on dotted lines. and g0rggs the coctions as i lus 172" wide and 2" deep at canter of cap. rated, raising section Gy 2", and spreading about 7 “IS172"" between each of the other sections. i Divide cap in half on-either side of shoulder section Ww P Land sark'dotsithen divide length af” shoulder section In. Allow seams and make corresponding notches.SLEEVE DRAFTING Uluetration shoes sloeve with great anount of fulness AM 'top, but fitted from elbow to wrists i Use the I-piece shanes sieeve pattera 26 a guide, and mark. "3 line down 4* Tong from She shoulder fotens a Mack position for slash tines, 4* apart on either side of the sieeve: ‘then draw the lines as. shown” by Wetted Sketch shows slewe gatherad at top but is fitted closer atthe bicep than'style |" sieeve. 1 Trace short sleeve and draw line through center. 11 Divide sloove cap into 6 equal parts; then draw 2 tines straight across as shown by dotted fines.Mark sect ions Hines and ark sections A to E. HI Slash along dotted lines and gpread ac iltuctrated; making the apread at top about 4", wv Shaded part of sleeve stiffened with inter! ining. ator am ‘Slash through conter from top to bottox: then along dotted” [ines and'epread ag illustrated, the"Spread:at top about 4 Make sleeve stiffening for top of sleeve 4* deep. Sleave has 5 pleats at top,all pressed tovard the back. t Trace the [piece shaped sleeve and sack the positions for pleats 2 apart at top, 2* long, and I-I/e* apart at potter. “Mark sections A to De 0 Mark positions for the slash 11 2* apart on either side of the sleeve; then draw s/joht! 1 Stash along dotted tines and spread making the spread for each pleat 1-1/2" wider w Trace sleeve and mark the pleat lines as j|lustrated. le about 4* deep and isto be making guryed lines as Shown’ by dotted Ines, Wark sections E fo! ke as illustrated,SLEEVE ORAFTING (Square Shoulder Designs) 36 STYLE 1 LJlystration shows sleeve with crescent shaped section at top of gap, This section 13 padded with fatertining io help the sieeve extend ac i lfustrated. I Trace sleeve foungation 6* Jong;then ark opints A-B-C and D. Make A to'B 1-172"; A'to Cand A to D about 4" EOnnect C to D through 8; then divide into 6 parts as Shown by dottes |inas. Cut out sieeve;then cut through u m fron © to 8 to 0. Nake slashes in upper part and. spread, forming slightly curved line at top, aa shown in diagran 11, B to € equals 8 to A plus 1/2" (this is to build the sleeve a little above the shoulder) or Slash through center fros top to botton.8uild up sieeve, by draving. 4 curved line. trom C to eto Dvand sprand, 80 that. the curved {Ine cqals loner edge of the crescent Shaped piece, hilow seams, 6 fl 1 SCE STYLE 2 This sleeve has 6 darts and hag the sane fitting ef fect as the above styles. the top of sieeve ie. also’paddee, Using the creseant shaped proce asa guide. Uso the, completed sleeve sections of the above style gavgu sider Djette, the. crescent shaped otece into” 6 Bra 12374" a8 botton eae a a m1 Slash crescent shaved piece along dotted !ines fron top. t6'bottan “and spread; then” arrange over cap. oF Eleeve between Cand 0, and trace. 1H The V-shaped tines, fora the darts, To complete the sleeve ‘pattern, ‘allow sears on all adgesy” lise the erescent shapod’ pleco’ in its original outline for an In- tertining pattern, to pad top af slesve, EA STYLE 3 AB 1 Trace sleeve foundation 6" fong:_then war goints and C,"naking h to B and A te'€ about Elreular line parallel to and about I* below” the Of sleeve, and sar points \O-E and F; then divide into Groarts a8, Shown. by Gatted tines,Stash from Ato e,and fron Eto Frand Eto. By then make renainger of slashes along dotted Iines to top'af cap and spread as” shows Tnedtagra 11 ap Drar'a short “€ to 8 equals E to A (diagram DT " is to build up the’ sleeve for sduare shoulder effect. ur “Slash through center from top to bottom, Build up sigeve by drawing 2 curved line fron Oto 6 to F Breorrespond with b to Hy and F to G with f Seams on all edges. making 0 to foi ationabout 2 | jeeve with band at top of a {Figsh center! of sleeve fron top dorn betwaon Band C et gee and. aerass. to the sidee;” then Slash (nto tho —lovor 1 | Curved lines of sections A'to.D, and-up to the top, ang Trace sleeve | foyndetion:, then gake sections A, to,0 2° Ss Spread as shown in-aiagras ITT. wids'at top, SW/2"Wide'at botfon, and asost t* tong.” | 1 0 } Build up ctoove cap as shown by dotted |ines. Draw the reeaining dotted lines as illustrated and mark,’ io Sections Ergo g.00 “ote? trated and Allon scans to complete tho sleeve. Ss } . Sleeve with band ond 3 pleats at top of cap. dotted Lines as illustrated, and mark sections A to € : mT Use the sleove with the band at top (sleeve 4) as a) Slash gn dotted Lines and spread, raising sections, 8 abide, and trace. . and ¢, 3° “Shove f,"and spreading éventy at top for the Divide cap into 4 equal parts and mark dots, leat W Indicate the pleats at top with notches. Allow seans to il complete the Sieve. 1 First draw center line down 2% long; then draw renaining Ss Sleove ith slach gathers at top. nh to Ke beeen i m Trace sleeve foundation ‘and mark position for band;then ;'Slash atong the band tines from top down, and. to the Fede? Fee foe’ ghaeg.t8 mark vosition For bandithen | S1G6s, then’ spread ae illustrated, raising segtions J, | Bs8°Phaa'ianking the top tines above A and E, 2" long 33 0 | Show by dotted [ines- Divide the band below into 3 equal parts; then dran/ wv the remaining lines a3 shonn by dotted lines. Mark See” Allow seams and make corresponding notchPUSH-UP SLEEVE DRAFTS (2 STYLES) a Ww ‘ UPPER SLEEVE LOOP AND BUTTON STYLE 1 (Lantern Design) ne lover slesve 1s so cut that the are oper 1d vig ron the straight grain, thus keeping Re opening fron stretching. 1 Wake slashes in vpper sleeve fron loner edge tprsnd’apresa ao {Tfustrated making the’ space Between Rang B equal the space between and Siete. 1 EXErace the sieeve foundation; then draft sleeve Fea the, sheave, foundat ‘Allow seams and make corresponding notches; 1 thea"cut out efeeve in fabric Pee ieee Meat 2 Peets, waking upper sleeve i cyt a facing, I" longer than opening, ang "long at underarn. sean: 1 2512" wide: “then sew to. loner sleeves” right Draft lower sleeve 1/2" narrower each side of | Sides together,, tapering aéan,ae Iilustrated, 1 ents eral ceem ee touet ose) Slash through” center for opening; then tuen Divide upper sleeve Tato @ equally spaces ' teing to instae se shown In ciagran WI. parts, andomark sections A to fi theo divide wer’ sl to 8 parts gs shown Dy” dotted un ry Sew lover sleove to upper cleeve, Press sean Vines. Mark sections t to P. pen; then” Join underarn sean of sleeve and Facing (opening cut the facing). Tura facing, to inside again, and sliptiteh inner edge to 1 feparate lover sleeve section fron the upper section; then make clashes from top to loner pe, and spread as Iitustrated, leaving sean / falfonance “space ‘at sleeve opening betwes sections | and P. position. mr for closer, fit around. arm, sew a loop and STYLE 1 Button°st loner underarn Seah. eee SiVLE 2 " a hig sleeve le about 3/4 length end may Separate lover sléeve {ros the upper be worn pusned ap toward thevel bow: SeeRTene ARee make’ el sane Troe top to | hemetnoa of waking agttern Yor” iowar ottoe end cprend Ge Itdleated: leaving | popetee Miter rovtatl iGtveet sections Gand L. ide 25 D2 Connect ES b> HEISE too £ 1S F= Gbaneet for shoulder sean tine. Eto g> 3 £19 8 = Sonnect & B= connect eee 11 -Draw curved line fron C to D, passing 1/2 below point G. This Decones the sean line. for the dropped shoulder style divides the front and back fron’ the el This sean is considered practical fron the standpoint that, the garment can be cut ost econosically ta narrow width of material. The seam thus cut becones the style feature of garment and gives the appearance of a droppee shoul der. Qraw curved fine at each side of the uncerarn seas above points ~Cahab, ‘as shown by dotted tines. and Close up front dart, spreading dart at waistline for a pleat. wv Shows conpleted kinoro front, back and sleeve. Seams are to be al loved. Notches should be made at corresponding edges. The kimono sleeve lacks, the tailored appearance of the raglan or set-in sleeve. For best results, soft and thin natertale shoul be used for the kisono sleeve aésign. “If the aaterial le” wide enough, the sleeve may be made in one piece with the front and bock- It fe called a kinono sieeve style because the regular armhole Is eliminated. For short kinono sleeve style, use the front and back only as som in diagren 1¥, Lower arahole’edge may be Tlolshed with a narrow Facing, Band or cut he FOR DEEPER ARMHOLE AKD WIDER SLEEVE For deeper armhole, ace 1-1/2" to each sige-of front and back as shown by dotted lifes. ~for wider sleeve, add,1-1/2" on each side of sleeve at top, to nothing at hottes as Indicated.Sueeve i u KIMONO SLEEVE WITH GUSSET ia 11 Ltustrations, below show 2-piece kimono sleeve with aueset under the arm. This style sieeve is most suitable inheavier material, Such 35 vetvetoon, woolen material, eter A kinono sleeve with a gusset allows the ara to raise ore easily, and'whoy the arn 1s dropped, tho. sleeve Appears more tailored than the kimono’ sigeve without ERS guscots Trace front, and back foundation, placing gattecn, shaul- det to shoulder, ana even at neckline. Mark points A fed 8: Place sleeve foundation vith top of cap touching front armole at poist &; (sleeve mst be balanced “ovenly ofboth Sidos at, underarm sears) then trace sleeve as Shown by dotted tines. ra Divide width of sleeve ia half from point 8 to lower edge, point Cy as shown by dotted Tine. Draw diagonal” slash lives for gusset, 3" ong, trom BTS £, "and fron Peto Gs Thevangle of these |fhes.can be located by placing ruler fran D to Aang F to Ae For shoulder pleats in front draw lines as fol lows: AtoH = 1-1/2h, Hto l= J to K- H to J ~ Connect. I to K ~ Connect. m Separate front and back: then slash along shoulder pleat tines from fl tod and | to Kyand close up front fart, spreading at sigulder for plats. Waxe pleat nt HE'S! Tongevand 4-3/4" tong at 1° For ougset,draft diamond shaved Section, making each Hinet3* fons, to correspond with underafn slash, ines of feant and backs, Gusset “shouta be" about 3° wide Stross center The shaded part of gusset joins to front; the ight part, to back. Sean are to be allowed on all sewing edges.RAG A SLEEVE DRAFT 44 The following diagrans show how to draft the f— Taglan steeve,usino the dress. foundal ian pat (Shn'as a guides 1 Trace front and back to waistline onty,, placing pattern pieces. shoulder to shouldersal th neck= F¥nes\ even. fhe back shoulder being” 1/4" longer, should’ te reniced 1/&o3s shoye by dotted ine: ‘to B - Equals 1/3 of front armhole. Ato C~ Equals 1/2 of back arnhote. DAs Wark point D at shoulder notch, of HdevePeane : © Connect. Center between EB. Connect. Genter between EC. Equals width of sieeve at neckline, gaking Eto twiee the width of E fond de! fol lows Eto H= 1%; then draw Line from W to Fe E to J ~ 1/24; then drav line fron J to Ge Ne Gurve thy line at ooints F ang 6 ia front; at points \G and C in back a stow by dotted lines Fa diagrae Tit. mr Trace shoulder section froa H to B to A to C to J to Hy then cut out and apply to top of Sleeve eapsoverianping point A Le" bs yous point Dy and having points # and G vat even distances from BYeeve as ilfustrated. Deg curves tines on steave from K to D and L to D as show by dot- Ww Slash siveye fron K to D and L to D;then cpreadshaving the sleeve "ap touch the shoulder section at points brand C.Tais will length é on the undaram sean of sieeve about IIE". For gathers at neck, stash front from neck, to dart; then close “up front dart to allow for gathers at neck as shown In diagram ¥. Allow seams on all edges but center front and back. Wake carresoonding sotches at araholes and sleeve. There should boat least 1/2" ease al lavance in the sieeve between the notches. The raglan sleove has the cane fitting value as the set-in sleeve, because the over part of the sieeve and araholeare about. thé sane in construction. Iti called a raglan sleeve. becau shoulder section and leave Are in_one part with the armhole seass running towards the neck, in front. and backsRAGLAN SLEEVE WITH SHOULDER DART - THO STYLES 6 STYLE | 1 Use the raglan sleeve foundation pattern as 2 guide. for gathers at shoulder, draw a siash Line on Front, from shoulder ta "dart: then mark sect tHoas’ a and By Sissy then close up frent dart and spread. for grihers as shown In diagram fi. For shoulder dart in sleeve, draw a line through center of sleeve from top down, the Tongth of shoulaors then draw lines. to. sides “af sleeve cap, ac illustrated, Wark sections etree To nake shoulder pad pattern ate., see grane to the riante 7 For,nwck sect In back fics dra now canter baey"ine by aading. Tite at rack, and ste! 1/2! at'waldelina as shown Sy dotted tines then gate neck dart far wide, ands" long, 1172! tFon center backs 20 shan in cagras 1 SHOULDER a For choulder dartystash from top of sieeve PAD US igwn-and across! then ‘spread about 3" or g At top. The spread above f will allow the rouldar to'extend st ghey. Allow seams and aake cor respandi ng in front and sleeve to indicate for gathers in fronts The raglan sleeve with shoulder dart, gives the garment a aore'tal tered appearance” and better Tit over the arn at choulders ratches the position STYLE 2 STHE 2 Ulustration shows raglan Invone section. sleeve and yoke 1 Use the raglan front, back and sleeve foun- dation pattern as a guide. “Draft the yoke on front and back as follows: A to 8 Equals 2/5 of front acnholes | © to D-- on Sleeve equals A to 8 on fronts | E to F— Equals 2/3 of back arahole. | G to — on sleeve equals £ to F on back. Draw yoke lines on front and back as sho | by dotted Hines. 1 Cut avay yoke sections from front and back, and apply to sleave at corresponding posi tions, For gathers in frortydraw slash line as, 11 Iistrated; then stash"and spread as chown In dtaarak TT ry Aliow seaws and make corresponding otches Mark grain line arrow ia yoke and sleeve parallel to center. backs Draft cuff 1-1/2" wide at lover edge of sleeve. fsDROPPED SHOULDER SLEEVE - TWO STYLES 4% STYLE | 1 Use the dress foundation front, back ang sleeve ao 8 guide. A to.8 ~ Equals I/2 of front arshole. © to D~ Equals A to 8, E to Fon sleeve equals A to 6 on front Sraho les Eto @=on sleeve equals.¢ to 0 on back aranole. F to G ~ Connect. 1 = Conter between F and G. Eto l- Bray line from £ to 1, through-Ht, URE velow He then deal a sliQntty curved line fron F tot t0 Ge cap of sleeve on line fron. F tot then Gut through fron Eto | and | apply Sections to corresponding positions at Trane and back arshole. between Acb, and C-D, as Shown’ by dotted lines in diaatan II. 1 Draw V-neck fine in front, 5* deep. for choulder ploat, draw line feam shoul der to'dart; thea’stash Snd close up front dart, Spreading for shoulder pleat "as shown” {i Gfagran tr, STMET ur Make shoulder pleat 5* lonp, marking with notches at shoulder and with dots De below. “Reduce the ease in frant and back of sieeve Slightly below F'and Gas fol lows: Fto J = 1a", G to K~ 1/4¥:then connect from J to | to K for thevnew line at tap of sleeve To complete the pattern, add seams anc make corresponding notches STYLE 2 eau 1 Use the dropped shoulder front, back and Sleeve pattern as 9 guide: Lower nechline as indicated by dotted lines: thon Graw yoke. lines (slightly curved). By “continuing ‘from dropped shoulder tine tS Genter front and backs For pleat in front, draw clach line and mark Sections A ‘fo Ee 1 Separate yoke sect ions:then slash front, and Glose up tront dartyepreading botwoen A’ and 8 for pleat. For sleove flare, draw slach lines and mark sections F tole ur ; Slash gleeve from lower edge up, and spread abot 2" between each sections J AMlow Seass on all but fold edges; then make Corresponding sotches In yoke, front, “and | Becks \ Mark arrows for grain lines.OEEP ARMHOLE SLEEVES (WING SLEEVE DESIGNS) - 2 STYLES a eee STYLE 1 This style features a 31/2" \__Seeper armnole sieeve r Front has diagonal side dart. f 1 f- orate ceeper armoie vane Tao Videt ohStlatr G6 Mecleateds Draft ‘clas art Ines thea \ Bae cottons 4 tod" ee sow une Cloge up. front and, vaist arts, “Soreselng “wise” dart Se CRowo' To dragtan 112 in Cut out front and pack alona Cho fon Srengia”t ness “ion Tract as HTTustrates Place sleeve with cap alnoet tauchigg aranole af snculaer See RaTGiel ng edeste "evenly SE etan tice? Graces Grae front. part of sloeve Cap 1fo away fron acthole, StB' widen fos’ of Sleeve from Sistas Pelbor “as indle | cated. t it and 27 ; Teave outline of sleeve alonat Aon tap’ ines then’divice top SPeSBP into’ eaval parts To lengthen underare sean et ep *Pfett ate curved stash a el ate 2 ie oth The ‘deep arnhole® sigeve must be so con- |] B/desthen divide, in,nal structed that itshould allow the wearer || Mark sections D to b. Eovralso Aer'arn quite contsrtanly™ Slasns at. illustrates ang To accomplish. thie, tha sleeve pattern |} Sofead,, raizing sect ions, 0 ust (de provided "with oxtra length at |) S889, 3-1/28; 1 nd the top of the underarm seam as demon- eee eee etree Allow seams and make corres strated In diagrams III and 1¥. oat ponding notches. Foe exanple: fora Q-l/2" deeper arnhole, the “ateeve, vagefara, sean zhould be | ELBOW UNE Tengthened 3-1/2° atthe tap;for-at ar hole 2" deeper, “add 2" to the top of i hbase Sleeve. unasrern’ sean, “etc. In other |] This style features souare Fords,as much as, the armhole, \¢ deupor atnhols sleeve,” 3/4. length, @d,so'much must be added to the | length |] and 3* deaper arahote, Of the underarm seam of sleeve at top: 1 Draft square armhole 9¢ deep, Land 1/39 wider shoulder ae Shown’ by dotted Vines. Close up front dart and Spread “waist dart as shown in'aiagram ft. STYLE 2 un Gut out front and back along ow arahole lines; tnen trace Tront,back and sieave as de~ seribadin style i, dlagran IT. qin ang 1 Trace outline of sleeve along! new eap ine ana divide top! | Of cap’ into @ equal parts. To lengthen underars sean 3 at ‘tony first. araw stash lines; then slash and spread | ae" Indicated: i | sieeve | For 3/4 sleeve, draft sleeve | Be Reeesrehes ete slave 1 Sngheh a fotee’tadoe se \, shown by dotted lines. 4 hae Tener at iover'ecoe. |g ! i | | Align soane_and neko corres i | AaneTagtastedes, | FLOW UNEDEEP ARMHOLE RAGLAN SLEEVE ~ CAP SLEEVE 48 DEEP ARUHOLE RAGLAN SLEEVE This style features a 21/2" dtaper temhola,. with shout Ger'dart in siéeve- fe pattern ceauires SoPGt underarn se "seo informa Givens for ~Sdaep.varehole® Eldeve on preceeging’ pave. 1 Draft the oeper armhole and broader shoulder as ind! ~ cates For neck gathers, raw, slash Vine"from neck’ to. breast point, and mark sections A then'elash and close ip. front dart as shown In alagras 11. u Draft the raglan arahole ines, arawing the tines dette ‘curved as shown by ~sfetfeg Tinos: “uark Seettons ILL ané 1 Trace outline of sleeve; then Oot out sections ¢ and ang place, over top of sleevecap ps iituatrated: 77 Bath side of sleeve, connect fron sections © and'D to el~ pow ine Vang V1 race cutting of lene ‘shoulder Section Iines; ide cach side of up Tnte'd equal parts. To lengthen underare sean at | TGp, Flest dram curved slash Tihés shout 2" dee gids. of sleeve; t fn half ano naek sect ions wl Slash as {llustrated and Spread, raising. sections ano ty 2 -1/2t; then draw une derarm sean. lines st iahtly Gurved as shown by dotted Tines. ur ATH Allow seans and make corres ponding notches. GATHERS | ‘AP SLEEVE Sleeve ig 4-1/2" long at center, and Tong at undararm sean. 1 Trace outline of eleove;then graft cap p1eete"as shown by dotted Tires. u ? ut out sieeve along the new cap sleeve Guta tags? then dives into” \Orparts: as Pgleatéa. "Wark sest ions. A tod 11 Wake slashes aiong the 6 center tines ane’ spread, plecing fewer etge of sl Enea atralght. lines In order tome the lover edge of sleeve arelragnd fine alt the hay Aeroae: ree Suet aMfontigt Boneh Sif steve Betreen 428, 8-0, Hel and’ oJ. Fors faced alonve, ate staero and Facing invong by covereing pattern to other sige of straight Ting.