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Chemistry 1010
Skin care is a multifaceted industry. The anti-aging branch is gaining more reputable results,
which brings it to the forefront. How is the average person suppose to know how to choose the best
type of product for their skin and which ones deliver the best results for ageless skin?
If you look past the outer layer of dead skin cells you find an inner layer of living tissue called
the dermis. Fibroblast cells are hard at work making collagen and elastin. These cells act as support
cables on a bridge which hold up your skin to help keep it wrinkle free. Elastin is flexible and stretchy
providing the supple resilience of younger skin. Fibroblasts, part of the cellular matrix of collagen
which is the structural framework of the skin. As skin ages these elements of structure become
inhibited by internal and external influences which inhibit the flexibility of the cellular makeup.
80% of contributing factors to damage skins structure are environmental factors such as
smoking, pollution, and uv radiation from sun which causes deeper wrinkle and leathery skin. Where
Some key topical ingredients suggested for anti-aging are Retinoids, hydroxy acids, vitamins C
& E, and peptides. A description follows on each ingredient and how they benefit the skin.
Research from Image skin care, Eminence, and Rhona Alison profession skin care products. I
will refer mostly to image skincare based on most information given and there products are amazing!
Retinoids, a derivative of vitamin A, also known as retinalde hyde, retinol, retinyl palmitate all
absorb as retinoic acid with the compound as C20H28O2 to the skin which triggers skin cells to make more
collagen, thicken the outer layer, retain moisture, and shed old dead cells.retinoid affect the basal layer
of the skin where the fibroblasts cell produced collagen and elastin.
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Mibellebiochemistry research has a pending patent on phytocellTec a Swiss green apples stem
cells a natural alternative to conventional retinals, which are used in Eminence and Image skin care
retinol alternatives.
Image skin care has combine retinol technology neuro-peptide and biomimetic peptide because
of retinol's ability to go deeper to the basilar layer in combination with peptides and kemspheres
technology a delivery system of ultra thin film locking water in to the skin Photo-aged skin has less
procollagen formation. Retinol stimulates pro-collagen synthesis and increases the mature collagen in
the dermis. It also aids in regenerating new cells. As retinol sloughs old cells.Dermatologists found
retinol decreases the signs of aging in four weeks and continued to heal skin throughout the 24 weeks
Must avoid when pregnant because of the stimulation in the basilar layer.
Hydroxy and Beta acids aren't as harsh as they sound basically they're elements from the
earth. These natural and organic acids loosen intercellular glues that bind together dead skin cells to
aid new skin cells to be revealed from underneath the old layer. Hydroxy acids are great for dry skin
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because they attract hydroxial group and keep the skin hydrated, Beta hydroxy acids are great for oily
According to the white white of research by Image skin care, Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxyl
acid that is derived from Salicin, the active extract from the bark of a willow tree. An organic acid is
produced when biosynthesized from the amino acid phenylaline has been proven to repair oily skin,
or 30% topical beta hydroxy topically applied in intervals of every two weeks, six time total, showed
improvement in 88% of the patients skin. Concluding Salicylic acid peels are a safe and effective
Vitamins C & E aid in free radicals by sacrificing extra electrons to unstable cells before the damage
is done. Similar as the process of apples turning brown. Similar with skin experiencing oxidative
stress, Free radicals damage DNA, cell membranes, proteins, and collagen. Antioxidants are unstable
when exposed to light and air. Similar to the transdermal loss if only using a hyluronic serum with out a
larger molecule to lock moisture over in layering serums with creams Collagen is created and broken
down as part of the process of skin renewal. When breakdown is greater then production skin starts to
sag.
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According to the white sheets researched performed by Image Skin Care, vitamin c has many
different forms which differ from stability and effectiveness. Image skin care uses a blend of these
types to increase absorption and effectiveness. The first form is the active form, l-ascorbic acid which
is unstable when it come in contact with air. More stable forms are esterfied derivative such as ascorbyl
palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, which is the most stable of the three (Image Skin Care
abstract white sheets). As Image research labs continued looking for a ascorbic acid that worked
effectively for the skin to absorb they discovered, A unique, oil-soluble form is BV-OSC, tetrahexydyl
ascorbate and found an increase by 30% of cell viability in comparison to regular vitamin c. Adding
BV-OSC to a fibroblast culture-the proliferation of the cells was increased by 50% that applied
topically to skin discovered and increased fibroblast collagen synthesis by only 25% and reduced
melanogenesis which skin pigmentation provided an evening of skin tone by more than 80%(Image
Peptides which are a type of amino acid which replicate the large part of the collage chain,
supposedly trick the fibroblast into making more collagen. Not all peptides are from amino acids some
mimic snake venom to paralyze the muscle involved in wrinkle formation. A lot of excitement about
their potential. Peptides have found promise in a petri dish results using a new test method called,
progenitor cell targeting which made it possible to isolate stem cells from human epidermis for test
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purposes. One of the unique properties of stem cells, is the colony-forming efficiency can be assessed
in the lab. Proven to increase the longevity and colony-forming efficiency essentially the vitality of
epidermal stem cells. Phytocelltec malus domestica; from Swiss green apple, was the first ingredient
based on plant stem cells research (Mibellebiochemistry.com). The difference in skin stem cells
protect from oxidative stress and peptide technology is different as it is correctional. So you have
neuropeptides that work like botox and then you have biomimetic peptides that mimic our own skin to
help rebuild collagen, reduce inflammation. Peptides boosts these process that already occur in our
skin.
Image skincare have taken the study of peptide and advanced it to many types of peptide
extracts a few examples, GranActive acne ingredient an Alego peptide 10 for anti-microbial benefit
and restoring skin(Image Skin Care training module). As well as new information on, echinacea
internally and topically as a collagenase inhibitor and building block to collagen structure (Image Skin
Image uses a delivery system of Kempheres is technology, a delivery system that has an ultra
thin film, locking water in your skin and vectorize-technology which has a time release, so the effects
Pharmaceutical grade quality ingredients for anti-aging creams our the best to use for creating
ageless skin, because the base is acidic for efficiency in absorption allows for maximum benefit
topically on the skin. Avoid creams with paraben, since they are known to be cancer causing.
Preservatives of phenoxethanol and potassium sorbate are safer to use on the skin.
Use a home care system in combination with professional treatments, performed by a licensed
Esthetician; skin care therapist's that are concerned about skin health. If your you desire skin
rejuvenation there are a few different options. A series 3 to 6 treatments: a topical aha/bha chemical
a daily bases.
A hydra facial may have more appeal because it does not cause discomfort or require
downtime and is considered one of the top solutions for skin rejuvenation. This treatment is a
multilayered. The first step consists of skin exfoliation that removes dead skin cells, the next part
involves a gentle chemical peel, which loosens debris and doesn't irritate the skin in combination with a
vortex suction which automatically extracts excess debris. The last step is application of special
Depending on the skin Fitzpatrick types, which is a skin score system based on Genetic
disposition (eye color, natural hair color, and color of skin), Reaction to sun exposure (based on rarely
burns to burns every time in the sun), and Sun exposure habits, (how often or rarely) lower Fitzpatrick
skin types have sensitive and higher types have tougher skin. Will be the deciding factors of what type
of skin treatment and home care will work best for that skin type.(Image institute labs pamphlet)
A chemical Peel is different from a hydra facial but similar because they both aid in exfoliation
of the top dead layer of the skin. Than takes a few weeks for new skin to replenish. Which reduces the
appearance of brown discoloration, even skin tone, and reduce the appearance of fine lines.
All three of the procedure can be done in a skin spa or more aggressive result with down town
at a doctor office.
In conclusion Sun prevention exposure is key to prevent continuing aging skin and informing
average person the importance on how to choose the best type of product when getting started on
practicing anti-aging. Locate a skincare professional in your area that offers Image Skin Care,
investigate treatment and home care regimen and get started with ageless skin.
Work cited:
1. msbeautyphile, Vitamin C in anti-aging and skin care published by PMC web. Dec 8, 2017
2. Mueller, Christina Skin Care Reality Glamour, April 2015 vol. 113 issue 4 pg 148-151
3. Mibelle group, Mibellebiochemstry.com, Plant stem cells for skin cell protection.
4. Image skin care institute Training module , image skin care director Mac A. Ronert MD, PHD,
5. The science white paper series of Image skin care, Marc A Ronert MD, PHD, clinical director of I