Khulna University of Engineering & Technology

Course Code: TE 3207

Title of the Course: Apparel Manufacturing
Engineering-II
Sewing and Seaming
defects
 Defects Rejects
Defect is an A product becomes
unwanted feature in reject when it loses
a product, or saleability in the
market.
Absence of a desired
Single defect in
feature, or most visible area
A feature existing in of an apparel may
distorted or wrong make whole
way. garment a reject.
DEFECTS Sewing Defects

Non-sewing
Defects
 Non sewing defects
Defects due to faulty/sub-standard raw
materials.
Defects due to wrong pattern.
Defects due to wrong spreading/cutting.
Defects due to poor handling of goods.
Defects due to oil marks.
Defects due to wrong ironing/folding/packing.
 Sewing defects
Proper appearance & performance of seam
related with the factors like stitch, feed
system, proper selection of needle & thread
etc.
During sewing, the problems appear may be
grouped as-
a) Problem of stitch formation.
b) Seam pucker.
c) Fabric damage along the seam line/stitch line.
 Skipped stitch
Problems of stitch formation
Staggered stitch

Unbalanced stitch

Variable stitch density

Excessive Needle Thread
Breakage
Excessive thread
breakage
Excessive Bobbin/Looper
Thread Breakage
 Skipped stitch
If the upper thread in continuous stitches
cannot pick the lower thread.
 Staggered stitch
If the stitches produced by needle are not
parallel with the seam line.
 Unbalanced stitch
This problem mainly occurs in lock stitch.
Interlacement of needle thread & bobbin
thread should be at the middle of the two
layers of the fabric.
If interlacement is slightly up & down, it is
called unbalanced stitch.
Unbalanced stitch
 Variable stitch density
Causes:
If of stitches per unit length is not equal, then it is
called variable stitch density.
Mainly occurred in drop in drop feed system.
Main cause is insufficient pressure of the presser
foot.
Remedies:
Use of appropriate feed mechanism.
Increase the pressure of the presser foot.

Fig.: Variable Stitch Density

Excessive needle thread breakage
Frequent bobbin/looper thread
breakage
 Problem of seam pucker
Wrinkled appearance along the sewing line is
called seam pucker.
 Problem of seam pucker
One of the most common problems associated with
lightweight fabrics is seam pucker, which is defined as
an unequal crinkling or a gathering of the seam, and is
typically due to the displacement of the fabric caused
by the stitching action, since lockstitch involves the
formation of stitches within the material.
Pucker is common in lightweight materials such as
shirting, blouses and microfiber fabrics.
These materials are less able to withstand the forces of
the needle and sewing thread due to their more
flexible nature.
Seam pucker also presents problems in fabrics used in
producing skirts, trousers and suits.
Causes of Seam Pucker
Feed Pucker

Tension Pucker

Stitch density and

fabric type

Inherent Pucker
 Feed pucker
The shortening of one of the fabric layers (usually the
bottom one) creates a wavy appearance on one side and
results in what is known as feed pucker. This problem
occurs when two plies of fabric to be joined are not fed
uniformly through the sewing machine. The bottom ply is
usually fed more positively by the feed dogs, while the top
ply is only held and guided by the presser foot (Figure
16.39).
A great variety of feed mechanisms have been developed
to try to improve feed pucker. Along with selecting the right
feed system for the fabric and seam, tilting the feeder to
provide the desired result on the seam may also help, but
this adjustment can only be undertaken by a skilled sewing
machine engineer.
 Tension pucker
Tension pucker results from incorrect thread tension and/or
incorrect needle choice (Figure 16.40).
The tension must be as slack as possible to produce a well-balanced
stitch, and the smallest-diameter needle possible with the correct
needle point type for the fabric should be used. The sewing threads
must suit the seam position and the thread must be the minimum
diameter possible to minimize disruption within the yarns of the
fabric whilst still maintaining the strength of the seam.
Other factors that can affect tension pucker are the extension
properties of the sewing thread and the possibility of shrinkage due
to moisture and heat. The yarn twist of the sewing thread and
frictional properties can both have a significant effect on the
regularity of stitch inter-looping and seam appearance.
 Stitch density and fabric type
Pucker induced by stitch density and fabric type should also
be considered when studying tension pucker. It is directly
linked with thread tension and the length of thread
required by the seam. Increasing the thread consumption
in the seam increases the seam strength. In a lockstitch, for
example, a 3% increase in stitch consumption can give an
almost 60% increase in seam strength.
However, a stitch is only complete after the fabric has
moved past the needle. The fewer stitches per centimeter,
the greater the distance the fabric must be moved for the
next stitch insertion. Consequently a greater force is
required to present the correct thread length for a perfect
stitch. This can cause higher thread tension in the seam and
induce puckering.
 Inherent pucker
This type of pucker is the hardest to eliminate as it is caused by the
displacement of the warp and weft yarns by the needle penetrating
the fabric and inserting the thread. If sewn in the warp direction,
the warp threads will be displaced laterally, causing an inevitable
shortening of their length relative to the adjacent yarns. The fabric
structure becomes jammed, resulting in swelling and puckering of
the seam.
Factors that should be addressed in attempting to eliminate
inherent pucker include:
Choice of needle and thread the finer the needles and threads, the
less the risk of inherent pucker.
Choice of needle plate fine-holed needle plates are essential for
reducing seam pucker.
Choice of stitch type.
Operator handling skills.
Sewing direction.
 Problem of seam pucker
Unequal stretch of fabric:
2 Layer; differential feeding.
Limitation of feed mechanism.
Fabric dimensional unstability:
More shrinkage in one layer of fabric than other fabric.
Shrinkage difference must be less than 2% between fabrics.
Should test fabric shrinkage before sewing.
Sewing thread shrinkage:
Due to variable shrinkage % of sewing thread and fabric,
seam pucker will be apparent after washing or ironing.
Remedies: We have to know about the shrinkage
percentage of fabric and thread before selection for
sewing.
Problem of seam pucker
 Fabric damage along the seam line:

This is an unacceptable faults.

This problem mainly occurred due to needle.
Mainly bent, blunt or damaged needle.
For this fabric damage, sewing strength is low and
due to more fabric damage, fabric may tear
along the sewing line.
Even new needle may cause thus problem if
selection of needle size and point is not proper.
Sometimes these faults become visible after
washing.
Types of fabric damage with needle
 Properties of seam
To make the seam perfect requirements are-
1. Seam performance
2. seam appearance
Seam performance
Seam strength:
It should be less or equal to fabric strength in both
horizontal and vertical direction.
If seam strength is higher than fabric may tear in case of
excessive force.
Seam strength depends on-
Strength of used sewing thread
Stitch density
Seam type.
 Properties of seam
Seam elasticity:
It should be equal or more than fabric elasticity,
otherwise sewing thread in the seam may break.
Seam elasticity varies according to woven and
knit fabric.
Durability:
It should be equal or higher than fabric.
It should not be damaged or tear due to friction
during using and cleaning.
 Properties of seam
Security:
Must be secured from seam opening due to sudden seam thread
opening and breaking.
Comfort: The garments which are adhere to the body adjustment
e.g. under garments, the seam of those garments should not create
any problem during wearing.
special properties:
Water proof:
To make a garment totally water proof, holes made by the needles
must be closed by any means so that water cannot penetrate inside
he garments. Water proof properties give better result if the seam
is made by alternative method of joining e.g. welding.
Fire proof: The sewing thread used, must be fire proof.
 Properties of seam
Seam appearance:
Proper and uniform stitch size and no fabric
damage.
No puckering.
Stitches in the required area.
Seam appearance should be same during
wearing and washing.
 Properties of seam
Factors of seam properties:
Seam type.
Stitch type.
Feed mechanism of the sewing machine.
Needle size and point.
Thread size and point.
Fabric construction.