Powerstroke Forum

jueves, 25 de septiembre de 2014 Osuna 02:21 p.m.
Markthelark 01-20-2012 10:45 PM
Diesel from waste motor oil
Hi , read a couple of old posts on here and needed to share some info ;
I have been distilling used engine oil for a few months now, and wanted to let you know
that ;
1. Both vehicles are running fine.

2. The Toyota seems to run even better than on regular diesel.
3. Producing approx 2lts hour.
4. Uses about 10% of fuel made to run burners.
5. No electricity required.
6. Cost - Made from bits around my garage - Waste oil free from scrappy -
Total fuel cost per litre = /$ 00.00
If anyone else is doing this I would be interested in their findings.
Mark
p.s. I'am very busy at the mo , so may not answer straight away.
simone0414 01-21-2012 12:55 AM
Thats great. A more detailed discription of you processor & process would be great. Pics
would be great if you have any.
Markthelark 01-21-2012 09:26 AM
Hi , will do soon , just need to make a few more tweeks. Got it up to 5ltrs/hour today.
Last big problem I have is reliability of burners , they keep clogging up every couple of
hours, even though I have filters on the feed fuel lines !
Found the problem , the heat being passed back down the copper pipe from the burner
was causing it to break-up inside, sorted !
Brief outline of what I'am doing;
Heating waste motor oil in a old 7kg propane gas cylinder,350c or higher.
Collect and condense gases back to diesel and petrol.
The diesel is red/brown in colour, but is same viscosity and works fine.
The petrol is same colour, but niot good enough to run in engine, tried it in
lawnmower,starts ok but wont run off choke. I use this to run burners.
The whole system is air free, but no pressure.
I have found that the higher the temp , the quicker I can run it (more ltrs/hr)
Nueva seccin 1 pgina 1

Interested if anyone else is doing this.
Diesel in uk is now 1.44 ltr = $2.25
bigboybadtoy 01-22-2012 09:41 AM
I have been considering cracking my own diesel from waste oil for a while now, pm me
the build list some pics and details and I can get on it, once I am up and running we
can compare notes, Im also working on hydroxy generators for my petrol vehicles you
may be interested in that as well.
Will do, but a bit busy at the mo.
Hydroxy generator ? Is this another name for HHO ? If so , been there, done that = no
great success, only managed 1ltr/min , maybe not enough for my 2.4d.
kahmann 01-24-2012 10:02 PM
I'm the director of a power plant with natural gas recip engines and a couple of 2MW
diesel backups that produce several thousand gallons of used oil per year. Up until now,
we've paid to dispose of this stuff, but I've been thinking a lot lately about trying to
clean it up and burn as fuel.. I'm curious to see what kind of setup you've got going.
Hi Kahmann, as I said earlier , I'am a tad busy at the mo ( trying to get my tax returns
done for Tuesday !) Will be on the case asap with more details.
Just to add , it's a great feeling driving past the garage's without needing to stop to fill-
up!
Mark
jesilvas 01-25-2012 09:42 AM
There was a big long thread about cracking WMO into #2 on here. It was a lot of work.
Hi , All I know is that I'am getting two fuels from the process, one which is a low grade
type petrol, it ran my mower but only on choke , I'am thinking of reprocessing it again
to see if it improves. The other is a diesel type fuel , a mix of kerosene, diesel and
others in that range, it runs both my vehicles just fine.
As to the process being complicated , my set-up is really basic and simple to construct.
I posted this thread in a attempt to compare notes with others who have done the
same, not to push this as a new idea and claim to have solved the global problem of
waste oil disposal.My system is still in the development stage at the mo , I know I can
improve it, but the set-up is working and I need to make use of it now, the pennies are
far and few between at the mo.

far and few between at the mo.
Will post more details soon, but for now , this is my basic set-up;
I drip feed ( approx 2/3 lts/hr) through a 15mm/1/2" pipe , which starts higher than the
boiler and has a loop at the bottom to give some wmo pressure that the gases being
produced cannot return up.
The wmo then enters my boiler at the top, the boiler is a old 7kg gas bottle.
It's heated at the mo by two old kerosene blow-lamp heads, gravity feed via filters.(still
having reliability prob's with this, clogging up every 2/3hrs.This run on the petrol type
fuel I produce or the diesel if I have'nt enough petrol.
The boiler is well lagged and heated to 350c or higher , I don't have a guage.
The gases rise up through a 1" steel water pipe about 18" , then 90 degrees along the
same pipe which is then bent slightly down, this pipe is about 3' long.I then joined a
15mm/1/2" copper pipe (easier to work with) It then doubles back , still running slightly
down (approx 10/15 degrees).
The above pipe travels through a 22mm/3/4" copper pipe , sealed at both ends using T-
brass fittings ( 15/15/22). This pipe has cold water flowing through it.This condenses
any gases that have not already been condensed. The pipe is about 3' long.
At the end of the 15mm/1/2" pipe is another brass T, 15mm/10mm/10mm , one 10mm
is pointing down, this is to allow the fuel to run out via a tube into a sealed
container.(old motor oil plastic container). The other 10mm goes straight on ,
connected to this is another plastic pipe which enters another sealed container ( old
plastic milk bottle).The bottle is half full of water, the pipe ends below water
level.Another pipe leaves the top and takes the gases that have not condensed back to
the boiler to be burned-off.
The reason for the above is two fold, to create a flame trap and to stop air entering the
boiler.
The only pressure in the system is caused by the depth of water you place the tube in
the flame trap (bubbler).
The fuel is put into another open container and allowed to cool and settle, then pumped
through a filter and into my vehicles.
Sounds complicated, but is really simple, I built it ! It's just a still really.
If anyone does copy/use this to make fuel , they do so at there own risk, and need to
check legalities of their own country.
I have tried many types of ideas in the past to get better mpg, but this is the first that
works. The waste oil is free from local scrapy, no electricity used, self running.
Be careful , these are flamable gases and the heat required is high !
You may find another post in the future saying I've knackered my engine , who
know's,but it really loves to run on what I'am producing.
Forgot to mention
The petrol type fuel is collected in the bubbler, the reason being it condenses at a lower

The petrol type fuel is collected in the bubbler, the reason being it condenses at a lower
temp than diesel.
Forgot to mention ; the petrol type fuel is collected in the bubbler as petrol condenses
at a lower temp.
Another add !
To make higher quantities you would need bigger boiler/pipe diameters/better

condensor and more heat - 350/400C.
My next move would be to try a old house oil boiler burner with the above, the burner
would uses 3 or 4 ltrs/hr, but I think a flow of 10 to 15 ltrs/hr would easily be possible,
maybe more, Just guessing this based on my set-up I'am using now.
But at the more I'am happy with my 20 ltrs a day ( running about 8hrs). Will let it run
24/7 when I've perfected and moved it outside.
jesilvas 01-25-2012 07:56 PM
Oh I never said it wasn't doable, just that the only thing I'd read on it never turned out
to much. I think it's amazing.
Hi Jes , My reply wasn't to make your post look negative, any comments are welcome.
Will do my best to put some pic's on later today , it's 05.44 here in UK at the mo , been
up all night trying to get my tax returns done !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just coming on forum
during my coffee/fag breaks. ( fag in UK is cigarette).
I did some searching on the interweb , only found one youtube post of a guy in US
doing the same !? Will put link on if I find it.
P.S. In UK , FORD stands for Fix Or Repair Daily , very old joke !
kahmann 01-25-2012 10:07 PM
I ran across this site a few months back while doing some research and thought about
buying their plans. I wonder if it's much different than what you've got rigged up.
WasteOilDiesel.com - Used Oil Recycling Waste Oil Into Usable Diesel
I retract the joke , I don't want to offend any of this forums members, sorry.
Mark

Mark
Hi Kahmann , seems so, but on bigger scale.
kahmann 01-26-2012 08:51 PM
Here's another online resource I stumbled upon. It's a forum full of people that are
doing what you've done.
Oil to Diesel Builds - Oil to Diesel Forums
Hi Kahmann , great link , cheers. You may get more/better info from one of these
guys , maybe someone closer to home.
Mark
simone0414 02-03-2012 03:57 PM
Pics are worth a thousand words so when you have time we would love to see some.
Where did you find the info/plans to make your still?
I have read that if you reprocess the petral in your still it should refine it enough to use.
I have also read that you can use plastic & tires in your processor to make diesel as
well.
Keep us updated. The more viable alternatives to big oil the better.
Should get some time next week to add pic's.
I just made it up as I went along, and will build a new one when I have time, but happy
at the mo getting approx 3lts/hr.
The critical thing with my constant feed system is heat , the more heat I add, the
quicker I can pass the wmo through it.
Using propane gas burner at the mo, as my other fuel burners keep clogging , will see if
it is profitable to use as I dont get any prob's with this , except that the temp here has
dropped to minus 10C and the pressure from the tank has dropped.
I started off the plastic way, but I needed 125 2ltr milk bottles to make 1 UK gallon =
4.56ltrs.
Mark
Toolless 02-04-2012 05:06 PM

Toolless 02-04-2012 05:06 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Markthelark (Post 2863996)

The wmo then enters my boiler at the top, the boiler is a old 7kg gas bottle.
It's heated at the mo by two old kerosene blow-lamp heads, gravity feed via filters.(still
having reliability prob's with this, clogging up every 2/3hrs.This run on the petrol type
fuel I produce or the diesel if I have'nt enough petrol.
The boiler is well lagged and heated to 350c or higher , I don't have a guage.
The above pipe travels through a 22mm/3/4" copper pipe , sealed at both ends using T-
brass fittings ( 15/15/22). This pipe has cold water flowing through it.This condenses
any gases that have not already been condensed. The pipe is about 3' long.
At the end of the 15mm/1/2" pipe is another brass T, 15mm/10mm/10mm , one 10mm
is pointing down, this is to allow the fuel to run out via a tube into a sealed
container.(old motor oil plastic container). The other 10mm goes straight on ,
connected to this is another plastic pipe which enters another sealed container ( old
plastic milk bottle).The bottle is half full of water, the pipe ends below water
level.Another pipe leaves the top and takes the gases that have not condensed back to
the boiler to be burned-off.
Hi there
Im from the UK as well
it is hard for me to understand your plan quoted above
Any chance you could upload a diagram or photo of it
Thanks
Toolless
Hi Tooless , I'am going to move it next week , will take pic's as I reassemble.
Where in UK are you ?
Had a bit of a 'runaway' yesterday , but got 6/7ltrs/hr, had to slow it down as it was
gettin to be a fire hazard ! Got a constant 2/3ltrs/hr rest of the day.
Mark
Toolless 02-05-2012 03:32 AM
Quote:

how do you attach the pipe to your gas bottle?
I tried copper fiitings at first, but could not get a good weld on the nut to the top of the
bottle. So I used some old 1" steel pipe, welded to the bottle.
The length of the steel pipe need not to be so long , just happens that there was
threaded ends on the bit I had.
In my next build I want to construct a removable lid on the top , this will allow me to
use copper pipe fittings all the wat through the build, also, it will allow me access to the
inside of the boiler to clean it out.
I may decide to use steel though, plenty of suppliers of all the bits on the interweb !
Mark
Toolless 02-05-2012 11:38 AM
Quote:

I tried copper fiitings at first, but could not get a good weld on the nut to the top of the
bottle. So I used some old 1" steel pipe, welded to the bottle.
The length of the steel pipe need not to be so long , just happens that there was
threaded ends on the bit I had.
In my next build I want to construct a removable lid on the top , this will allow me to
use copper pipe fittings all the wat through the build, also, it will allow me access to the
inside of the boiler to clean it out.
I may decide to use steel though, plenty of suppliers of all the bits on the interweb !
Mark
Did you take the copling off of the bottle to get your steel pipe in?
Im from Northampton but am up north west at the moment
Toolless 02-05-2012 11:40 AM
Quote:


do you have both pipes conected all the time?
Not that far away then , I'am near Gloucester. Give a email and I'll give you a number.
I ground-off the carry/protection bars at the top, enlarged the hole slightly with a drill,
then just welded the pipe over the top.
Both the exit pipe and the fill pipe are connected at all times, both welded to bottle.
Took a couple of attemps to weld , my mig packed-up and finished-off with the arc,
infact, the arc was a better option.
I used the 7Kg bottle because I had one, and it was about the right size and could take
the pressure. The latter is not so important, the only pressure is caused by the depth
you put the pipe into the bubbler water, I guess it's less than 2 bar / 29psi in the boiler,
compared with normal outside pressure of 1 bar/ 14.5 psi , so hardly anything really.
Mark
Quick start-up procedure I use ;
Make sure all pipes secure.

Empty any petrol that's floating on the water in bubbler.
Light burner.
I then leave it for 20-40 mins , depending how much oil was left in boiler, to reach
temp.
If it starts to produce, I leave it until it starts to slow down or when the end furthest
from the boiler gets too hot to touch.
Start the oil feed slowly, about 1/2ltr/hr , making sure the pipe stays hot, check the
production level, if it matches the input,I then turn up the input feed.
I check that the bubbler input pipe is below water level.
I then check it after 30-60 mins , if ok, I just leave it running, as long as I have enough
waste oil in header tank and the diesel tank is empty.
I never leave it more than 8 hours before emptying , only have 25ltr drums.
Mark
Toolless 02-06-2012 12:46 PM
Quote:

Not that far away then , I'am near Gloucester. Give a email and I'll give you a number.
I ground-off the carry/protection bars at the top, enlarged the hole slightly with a drill,

Both the exit pipe and the fill pipe are connected at all times, both welded to bottle.
Took a couple of attemps to weld .
If you have 2 pipes coming off of the boiler then how do you stop the steam going up
the drip feed fipe
Are you using a butane or propane bottle?

Never took the male quick coupling off of a butane bottle before
But I would imagine it is pipe thread and for health and safety resons a coarse thread
Could you just get a bit of threaded pipe and thread it on?
Toolless 02-06-2012 12:53 PM
You said you got 2 fuel from it a lighter petrol type and a heaver diesel type
do they come off at different tempratures and what tempratures are they and at what
ratio of pet to derv?
Some people have told me that they get a heavy oil from it; did you not get 3 kinds of
oils?
The drip pipe is feed from about 2' higher than the boiler,it runs down below the boiler
then back up , giving a loop of oil that the gases wont pass.
Old propane bottle.
Just ground the coupling off.
May have been a thread , but decided to weld it.
* update - today , not that cold - 2/3c, had trouble starting, also ran flat. Put some
diesel in, about 50/50 mix and all ok. Therefore, it could'nt have been
injectors,pump,filter etc, must have been poor homemade batch ! Noticed ligther colour
fuel at bottom of my filtering tank , maybe emulsified water/homebrew!
Will be more careful when I filter next batch and see if I get the same problem.
Have only done about 500mls so far. Been fine upto today.
Mark
I get a diesel type fuel , a mixture of diesel,kerosene,A1,paraffin etc, from my main

outlet after the condensor, and a petrol type fuel collects in the bubbler.The ratio is
90/10 or so.
As for temps, I've no idea as I don't have a guage. The pipe just before the condensor
is very hot ! The oil needs to reach at least 100c to start to give-off anything, mainly
petrol as it has a lower boiling point and lower condensing temp than diesel. It needs to
be at least 250c to start diesel production, and condenses at a higher temp, around
170c I think.
When I build my new still I'am going to put two outlets and two condensors, the first
condensor to bring temp down to about 100c and extract the diesel, the next in series
to bring it down to room temp and extract the petrol.
Also considering putting another boiler in, route the diesel directly to this and and then
see what final product I get. I might get time later today to empty my boiler and then

see what final product I get. I might get time later today to empty my boiler and then
feed it with the fuel I've already made, just to see what I get.
Temp is everything , I must get a lazer guage or something really. I know that the fuel
coming out now,since I changed my burner, is a little thicker( half way between diesel
and cooking oil) and darker in colour.
Mark
Want to filter oil before putting through still ;
Seen filter bags on ebay , what sizes are needed, and do you put them inside each
other , i.e. 25 / 10 / 1 .
How do you clean them.
Mark
Toolless 02-08-2012 05:04 AM
Quote:

Want to filter oil before putting through still ;
Seen filter bags on ebay , what sizes are needed, and do you put them inside each
other , i.e. 25 / 10 / 1 .
How do you clean them.
Mark
I have 2x 5 micron bags and 2 x 1 micron bags

They are all aprox 6" wide
one of the 5 micron bags is about 6" long; I got this one given from an aquerum shop
I have a plastic 5 gallon drum that I cut a hole in the top of about 6" on the other side
to the cap
The filter bag sits inside the bucket and I poor oil in through the bag
When finished I can then poor this bucket into something ells
The other 3 micron bags the (1x5 and 2x1) I bought from ebay and are about 28" long
If you get a clean 45 gallon drum and cut some 6" holes into the top (dont cut through
where the orininal holes are) depending how many filter bags you have and do the
same as above
When finished you put your oil pump in the drum and pump out your clean oil
I find that these 28" filter bags are to long for my 45 gallon drum
I would not go any more then half the drums death
The 6" long one should work on a 45 gallon drum but will take longer to fiter
But as a rule of thum always filter your oil to less then the fuel filter on your car
otherwise your filter will clog easaly
The fuel filter on my van is 2 micron this is why I filter it through a 1 micron sox
But I need pre filter to that other wise the 1 micron sox would glog very quickly
This is why I have 5 micron soxs
You could put one size inside another but never tried it
I just filter WMO through 5 microns first and then mix it with my mix to thin it down

I just filter WMO through 5 microns first and then mix it with my mix to thin it down
and then through the 1 micron bag
You might have problems putting neat oil through a 1 micron sox might take a long
time
I have found that the current 4 micron soxs dose a 45 gallon drum before they start to
slow down due to them being cloged
so I put them in the washing machine on a boil
I used to get a few pillo cases they are about 75 microns

Got an old 5 gallon drum and cut the top of it making it a bucket
The pillow case would slide over the top with a snug fit and hence you can poor oil into
the bucket through the filter
I think a typical oil filter on a car is about 10 microns

But when you collect the oil it could of been standing around in dirty old drums
Toolless 02-08-2012 05:33 AM
How did you get on with the diagrams

and do you have an electrical pump?
Thanks for the info on the bags , seen loads on epay ! Will filter old oil down to about 5
microns, then the produced diesel down to 1.
Sent yesterday after I got your txt.
I use a small fish tank water pump to circulate the condensor water , works well.
Found problem with hard start and poor running , the batch I put in the van had'nt
settled, and there was water in it ! Used new batch today ,all fine.
Today I ran the still for 3 hours, firstly, I got 8ltrs out, and also, it produced so much
gas that I had to turn my burner right down.
Tried putting produced diesel back through , came out the same as it went in ! I was
expecting it to be a little cleaner in colour. Going to make-up a carbon filter using
charcoal , see if it removes any of the darker colour, which I presume is carbon!?
Mark
Toolless 02-08-2012 09:21 AM
Quote:

Sent yesterday after I got your txt.
You email did not come through
Quote:

I use a small fish tank water pump to circulate the condensor water , works well..

I use a small fish tank water pump to circulate the condensor water , works well..
you may wish to reconsider this filtration process and use your pump for pumping oil
through a bowl filter
the type of filters used on the R/O systems and carbon filters listed below
it would be much quicker and cleaner doing it that way
Quote:

Found problem with hard start and poor running , the batch I put in the van had'nt
settled, and there was water in it ! Used new batch today ,all fine.
you might want to let the water settle out to the bottom of the drum for a few months
or put a temprature gage on your boiler so when it is 100C you know its water
Quote:

Tried putting produced diesel back through , came out the same as it went in ! I was
expecting it to be a little cleaner in colour. Going to make-up a carbon filter using
charcoal , see if it removes any of the darker colour, which I presume is carbon!?
I think the carbon filters are made from carbon and are for filtering calcium
Ordered some carbon granules today - will make-up a filter from them and see what I
get. Some filter bags too.
Also, ordered a lazer thermometer that goes to 380C , will update temps when it
comes.
Currently stock-pilling fuel, have to do a 450ml round trip next weekend, will update on
how the van went.
Still no prob's with start/running since I changed batch.
As to the short run of the still yesterday , I estimate that 70-80% of the heat was
generated from the produced gases. Makes using propane even move viable.
Mark
Desde <http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/bio-diesel-alternative-fuels-supplements/236561-diesel-waste-motor-oil-
print.html?pp=40>
Toolless 02-09-2012 01:39 PM
please see the below link for the diagram of the plant
simone0414 02-09-2012 02:40 PM
Can you make that pic a little smaller. Real hard to view it.
Toolless 02-10-2012 04:35 AM

Toolless 02-10-2012 04:35 AM
sorry I dont know how to do it

I know the code for HTML but not BBC
2006PSDSD 02-10-2012 05:11 AM
Pic that Toolless posted http://ebayphotos.webs.com/Scan2.jpg
Sorry about the diagram , I only had a few mins to do it.
Filters arrived today , will try them out in the morning.
Minor disaster this morning, thought there was oil in the boiler when I fired it up , but
when it reached temp and I turned the flow on, blew my bubbler pipes off and shot
boiling oil everywhere !!!!!!!!! Watch yourselves !
2006PSDSD 02-10-2012 10:09 AM
Can you get some pics of the whole operation? I'm interested, but I don't have a lot of
room :dunno:
Will get pic's on soon.

My set-up is approx 7' long, 4' high and 2' wide. This could easily be reduced , but just
made it with bits I had around at the time.
Mark
Would like to hear your comments please ;
Thinking of using an old house central heating boiler in my set-up , the pressure is not a
problem, it's the temperature I'am interested in, will need to run to 350C or maybe
400C.
If this is ok, thought I could use the inlet side for the waste oil input, and the outlet to
my distillation coloum. Would use steel pipe throughout the build.
Mark
Thinking about it , might just use the burner.
I know my home boiler uses 3 to 4 ltr/hr , but I think that it could produce 20 to 30

ltr/hr, based on my previous burners with my current set-up,they used 10/15% of the
fuel I was producing. Tha advantage would be that I need only have to run it an hour to
produce the same quantity that I get now running for 8 hrs.
Mark
Passed my diesel through a 1 micron bag filter this morning , -5C , went sraight
through !
By distilling it must leave loads of particles in the boiler , will make a drain for it
sometime and see whats in it.
Will see if my carbon filter takes any of the colour out, later in the week when the
granules arrive.
Mark
2006PSDSD 02-11-2012 05:49 AM
WOW! I just checked the F conversion for 350-400C. SOB that's hot! LOL
2006PSDSD 02-11-2012 05:49 AM
What is waste oil's flashpoint?
Diesel 125 - 205F
Did more research after a "runaway" with my system ;
Temp needs to be between 260C/500F and 360C/700F , too low a temp and you get
nothing , too high and you get thicker fuels.
Mark
Been playing around with input flow this morn, as I thought , the quicker/higher flow of
wvo, the temp starts to drop. With my current burner I can hold temp at about
3ltrs/hr , but I tend to keep it at 2ltrs/hr. I mesure the input flow by timing how long it
takes to fill a tea candle base , 18ml , this gives me the following;
21 sec = 3lts/hr , 32 = 2 , 64 = 1 , approx.
Next set-up will include a temp operated burner , to maintain approx 350C no matter
what the input flow rate is , the max flow will be decided by the burner and if it can
maintain the temp.

Mark
This is maybe my last post ! I was hoping to get some info from others doing the
same , at least get others opinions/idea's etc.
Thanks to those who have taken the time to post on this thread.
Mark
simone0414 02-12-2012 10:04 AM
:worthless[1]:
Toolless 02-12-2012 01:21 PM
Quote:

Would like to hear your comments please ;
Thinking of using an old house central heating boiler in my set-up , the pressure is not a
problem, it's the temperature I'am interested in, will need to run to 350C or maybe
400C.
If this is ok, thought I could use the inlet side for the waste oil input, and the outlet to
my distillation coloum. Would use steel pipe throughout the build.
Mark
Thinking about it , might just use the burner.
It sounds more profesonal then a gas bottle

but how are you going to heat the boiler
and are the inlet and outlet pipes of a boiler on the top of the boiler or middle or bottom
Not sure on the price of copper but the price scrap metal is fetching at the moment
would make a boiler very expencive
Toolless 02-12-2012 01:25 PM
Quote:

ltr/hr, based on my previous burners with my current set-up,they used 10/15% of the
fuel I was producing. Tha advantage would be that I need only have to run it an hour to
produce the same quantity that I get now running for 8 hrs.
Mark
What makes you think you will use less fuel on the burner
And what do you propose to use as a burner

Toolless 02-12-2012 01:39 PM
Quote:

Passed my diesel through a 1 micron bag filter this morning , -5C , went sraight
through !
By distilling it must leave loads of particles in the boiler , will make a drain for it
sometime and see whats in it.
Will see if my carbon filter takes any of the colour out, later in the week when the
granules arrive.
Mark
If its distiled prosesed oil then I dont rely see any point to filtering it
But once I have filtered my oil to where it is ready to poor in the tank I have an inline
bowl filter on a hose pipe
It is one of those filter they use on caravans pumps, an on demand diaphragm water
pump
It has a mesh inside it and it stops and large bore particals passing through
But since the mash has become damaged I have put a J cloth round it
A J-cloth is about 10 microns
The filter is just there as a back up as its the last thing that happens before the fuel
goes into the tank
If it is just plan black waste engine oil you are filtering to 1 micron then I would put it
through a 5 micron filter or pillow case first
As I can see it clogging up very quickly
Regarding putting a drain plug on your boiler

I think you will have a lot of tar chud and pure crap that cant be drained
I think you need to be able to get a pressure washer lance in there somehow and drain
it at the bottom
PS
I always wash my filter bags through the washing machine hot wash
Toolless 02-12-2012 01:46 PM
Quote:

Did more research after a "runaway" with my system ;
Temp needs to be between 260C/500F and 360C/700F , too low a temp and you get
nothing , too high and you get thicker fuels.
Mark
Have you tried it at very high temp

did it all boil away together
Did you get the lighter petrol mix mixed in with it all as well
Toolless 02-12-2012 01:56 PM
OK tried it a different way now

OK tried it a different way now
http://ebayphotos.webs.com/oil%20plant.bmp
Toolless 02-12-2012 02:06 PM
what are you using as a condensor and are you pumping fresh water from the tap in or
recycled water?
You have 2 pipes after the condesor one for derv and one for petrol
But how dose the petrol and derv separate?
Why have you got water in your bubbler where you keep your petrol?
Is the derv tank sealed or open?
What are you using as a metal container?
Your diaram shows you have a burner supply but you also have a suply from the petrol
in the bubler so which one supplies the fuel for the boiler?
Is the valve on your waste oil tank a standard tap?
Need time to work-out if gas is cheaper , but I can get more heat from a CH Boiler
burner = more fuel per hour, I hope to get 20=30ltrs/hr , the CH burner uses about
4ltrs/hr. Think I will use another large gas bottle and not the CH boiler.Also , found
temp regulator on epay for 18 , will allow me to hold a constant temp no matter how
much wvo i put through.
Been filtering my wvo to 10 micron before putting into boiler , flows better and easier to
regulate.
Been running non-stop for 32hrs , got 68ltrs so far.
Van now done about 1000mls , no prob's so far !
Toolless 02-13-2012 08:22 AM
Quote:

found temp regulator on epay for 18 , !
do you have a link to that
Epay item number 110817739044 , loads of others too. Comes with thermocouple.
Granules came today , will try them out later.
Water is pumped from and to a bucket.

The derv condenses at higher temp, so that comes out first in the pipe, the pipe
continues to the bubbler, by then the temp has dropped enough for the petrol to
condense, if it has'nt, it will passing through the water, it then floats on top. Reason for
the bubbler is, 1. It helps collect the petrol. 2. Flame trap.
The whole system is sealed , no air must get in for pyrolysis to work.
Reason boiler is contained in a container is it made it easier to insulate and also allows

Reason boiler is contained in a container is it made it easier to insulate and also allows
heat to completely surround the boiler.
The pipe from the bubbler carries the excess gases to be burned-off.
The valve i use to regulate the wvo flow is just a plastic one i had in my garage.
Sorry this is a bit out of sinc, but only just noticed your post.
Will upload some pic's later.
Toolless 02-13-2012 10:34 AM
Quote:

Epay item number 110817739044 , loads of others too. Comes with thermocouple.
Granules came today , will try them out later.
That is electrical
how are you going to get it to work on an open fire?
Toolless 02-13-2012 10:38 AM
Quote:

The whole system is sealed , no air must get in for pyrolysis to work.
Do you not have a breather
Basically , it will work like a house thermosate, maintaining a set temp by turning on/off
the burner.
NO BREATHER, MUST REMAIN OXYGEN FREE.
Toolless 02-15-2012 03:55 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by simone0414 (Post 2909046)

:worthless[1]:
I honestly dont think this is going to draw any more interest

but there we are
1.http://ebayphotos.webs.com/1.bmp
2006PSDSD 02-15-2012 04:45 AM

What are you two doing with the sludge that is left behind after distillation?
This is just my test still , did'nt make any provision for draining/cleaning. Did dismantle
and clean out about 80hrs run time ago , noticed production drop-off a little with time !
My next build will have easy access via the top, also a drain at the bottom. Aiming for
at least 20ltrs/hr.
Have learnt alot from original set-up , pipe sizes,length,temp etc.
Took some readings of temp with lazer yesterday, main boiler, hidden under all that
insulation, was 320C - 340C , the pipe one foot from the boiler was 220C - 250C, before
condensor was 50C and 25C at the outlet. Really want about 50C at the outlet (get less
petrol in the diesel), simple to do , just make the pipe from the still shorter, 2 - 3 foot is
enough, but will take more measurements with the lazer. Could possibly rig-up a new
condensor with a temp operated fan, like in a car's radiator.Will still need a condensor
as the outlet temp will just keep increasing with time.
Away for a few days now, going to Cornwall , 450ml round trip , be interesting to see
how my diesel performs , so far so good.
Have been using a butane gas supply recently , instead of my original burners, works-
out that the cost is approx 30p/ltr , not as good as original burners, it was 0p/ltr then, if
you factored in the extra diesel I had from not burning it in the burners, may work-out
nearer 25p/ltr. Plus-side is constant reliable heat , down-side is cost and limited heat
output. My new design will have excess heat supply , allowing me to produce more and
quicker, will slao be running on my own fuel = 0p/ltr , well thats no true, the motor will
use a little electricity, just a penny or two per ltr.
Mark
Back from my weekend visit to my son , done 523mls on homemade derv. Went fine
until about 40mls from home, lack of power on hills , pulled over and changed the inline
fuel filter I'd put on before leaving, the old one was fully clogged! Need to improve my
filtering system before I put it into the van.
Spinal Tap 02-21-2012 07:00 PM
Have you tried using a centrifuge to clean the debris, I saw a video on YouTube and it
made a huge difference in downtime from contaminents.
Great read, thanks for the ideas!
Hi Bryan, nice to know there are people out there, seems I'am talking to myself most of
the time !
Thought about centrafuge, seen youtube vid's, but have'nt the funds at the mo.
Going to let it stand for a day or so, then drain it via a tube about 4" from the bottom,
as I noticed when I fill the van, there was some crap coming out of the bottom of the

as I noticed when I fill the van, there was some crap coming out of the bottom of the
drum. Even so, 500mls before clogging my 99p inline filter was'nt too bad. I had a
spare as I thought this might happen,took 2mins to change.
Either you are up early today, or a Yank with a very English name. Hope the word Yank
does'nt cause a prob here. You know what we Limey's are like when it comes to talking
about our old collony, still known around here as
US-Shire !
Mark
ps Hope to start new build soon.
Is there anyone out there doing the same??????????????????????????????????????????
ANYONE OUT THERE ON THE INTERWEB
If I put a book together, with loads of pic's,diagrams, and info on how to set-up and run
the system, do you think I could sell it for 9.99 or so, to help cover my time and set-up
cost's ?????????
Cashflo 02-21-2012 10:09 PM
Not a lot on the org that supports burning motor oil and even less have attempted
crackin oil to make diesel. I think a lot of those that are trying in might not be those
with ready access to the interweb. As i type this the movie "The Hills Have Eyes"
popped in my head.
Thanks for the "heads up" , excellent user name.
Desde <http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/bio-diesel-alternative-fuels-supplements/236561-diesel-waste-motor-oil-2-
print.html?pp=40>
Mtrans 02-24-2012 09:55 AM
[QUOTE=Toolless;2915568]I honestly dont think this is going to draw any more

interest
but there we are
No man you are wrong,I think meny peek,I am from Europe,hard on English,use WMO 5
years in clear form,but recently I wrote in thediselstop about same distill
as simple making brandy,whiskey lot of that here,its custom here.
One day I parhaps do as Markthelark,but for now I can drive on black disel,but again
one day parhaps not so fuel that isn`t black is needed.
I like you idea about drain valve,but for that heat parhaps you need STEAM valve,and
honestly I was thinking that there is more heat and pressure,because in whiskey job
temp is 70c and there is much heat.
So,parhaps you will forse me in early than I think,wish you much success in your work.

Thanks for reply Mtarns, your English is better than most here ! Where are you from,
and what do you mean "wmo in clear form"?
Bought central heating burner from Epay, not arrived yet, will try it on current set-up
first, then add temperature controller.
I mentioned earlier that I think pressure is less than 2bar in boiler.
Also, going to put drain on current still, the new one will also have easy access from the
top, via a plate and bolts.
Anyone any idea's on how to control the condensor temp, thought of using a car 12V
radiator fan or something, and using a standard car temp censor (90C) located at a
point that will give 50C-70C at the output.
Mark
Mtrans 02-25-2012 12:09 AM
Hi.man you are gury,you made CONTINUOUS refinery,

I use clean WMO by centrifuge in 80-90% in my Fiat 2500 NA IDI,for your temp Q,in
fruit distill I have 120 lit boiler(100 lit fruit in) and 65 mm OD pipe to condesor of 400
lit so you see difference to your condesor and need to empty every batch,so yours
CONTINUOUS help me a LOT.Your tiny condesor of ~15 lit water is at first look small,do
you change water?Standard bimetal sensor we use in electric boiler here has too much
difference by me,aka swich on 30 c and off at 50 c,so parhaps you must find electronic
with NTC resistor cheaply on some electronicshops or Ebay.As I see temp of 50 c is
imortant one.
Car 12V radiator fan is good idea you need 12v relay,electronik is usualy 12v,as
electrician parhaps I can help.Parhaps with biger bucket away from boiler with Shower
above bucket so water through air will cold better.
I see NO chimney at boiler,you find not needed ,is there smoke at burner?
Is rock wool on condesor pipe after boiler stoping cool vapor or you find necessary?
Your 1" pipe from boiler than reduced to 1/2" WITH 2*90 bend isn`t common HERE but
parhaps help by restriction to cold vapor?Here biger pipe is beter.I like DIY things so
your set up is fascinated to me.I have manyQ.Best
TheFordman87 02-25-2012 02:14 AM
I am amazed that you are getting diesel that runs well in your vehicles from this. I think
you could market a book from this but you need to perfect your masterpiece first. At
the same time you could keep it to your self and you will have piece of mind that you
never have to pay for fuel again. But I live in America and I have access to tons of used
oil as well. I don't really have much time to give suggestions or anything at the moment
but I will say I believe if you were to distill the petrol again you might get usable gas for
regular petrol engine. But at the same time you could continue using the petrol to make
the system self sustaining. I will defiantly look into this a lot more and see if we can't
make some history of our own. You absolutely have the whole concept down pact it just
needs some tweaks here and there. I tip my hat to you for this sir and I will be glad to
lend my mind as a helping hand as much as my intelligence will allow me.
Hi Mantrass,
My set-up was purely a test of what was required, have learnt alot from it which I will
use in my new build.
The new still will be controlled with a digital controller, designed for use with kilns, good
for 1600C , on Epay for 18. Comes with thermocoupler and relay to operate the

for 1600C , on Epay for 18. Comes with thermocoupler and relay to operate the
burner.
There is no chimney at the mo, there will be on the new still boiler.
Since my present burner will only generate so much heat, I put the insulation on the
pipe to help maintain boiler temp.
The pipe diameter is ok for the quantity produced with the heat available, I will increase
size with new build.
Aiming for boiler temp of 300C to 380C, 250C at top of outlet pipe just before it turns
downwards, and 50C to 70C at outlet pipe.
I have mentioned this before, this method of distilling wmo is not new, but there is very
little on the interweb, well not that informative anyway. Just keep making small
changes and monitor what happends. The key to quality and quantity is heat control !
Mark
Hi Fordman, Thanks for you comments and encouragement. What I'am doing is not
new, but very hard to find exact info on set-up and control. My set-up looks very basic,
it is ! Just using it as a test-bed for my new still, which will include various mods based
on what I've learnt so far. The key to quantity and quality is heat control, this will be
covered by my new 65,000btu burner and digital temp controller.
Glad to be able to cover my own fuel useage at the mo , but will be putting a book
together with loads of pic's and info, will sell cheaply and hope to cover my costs. So far
I have managed to construct from materials I already had. My new burner has still not
arrived yet, and will not get controller untill I build the new still, but will try-out new
burner on existing boiler to see what I get, will monitor temps with my lazer.
Cheers again,
Mark
LOCAL GARAGE DIESEL PRICE IS NOW 1.48P/LTR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
SOMEONE IS MAKING LOADS OF /$
Most people I know are suffering financialy, fuel prices affect everythng from eggs to
holidays !
This country (UK) needs to cut tax's now , give people a little slack, give them the
incentive to spend some dosh, if I don't buy another persons goods, they are'nt going
to buy another persons, etc,etc. As for the banks ! When are we going to get our money
back, maybe if they stopped paying their bonuses, they might ! Don't hold you breath
though!
Mtrans 02-25-2012 11:41 PM
As I rememmber a years ago when I read two link they go same sistem like
refinery,and BIG problem is heat control in that setup.Yours is much better sistem,but
for safe use of gas as I think is only way to use some gas boiler control because some
times it must turn off and on.Here is little of that,we use electric to heat house
boiler(50-80lit).
Another thing is oil burner which is used for home heating years ago.
Because of your gas/petrol prodaction parhaps is safe to use gas boiler control or not?
Q-that pipe you feed oil to boiler is pipe go to bottom of boiler or it`s end is on top?
Which level of oil is in boiler 2/3 or more less,as I see you control level of oil in garden
hose from uper tank?

WMO enters the top of boiler, the loop in the feed is to prevent gases from escaping.
I estimate about 1 ltr or less in boiler when running.
Have met someone very local to me who will give great input and advice on my new
system build. He has been making bio for some time now, but has alot of knowledge in
the area I'am doing.
Mantrass , where are you from ?
Mtrans 02-26-2012 01:32 PM
Balkan-Montenegro-Serbia one day in EU.

I learn from you that WMO enters on the top of boiler,but did pipe go down to close
bottom of boiler or it `s end is on top of boiler.
If only 1 lit is inside boiler is it hard to adjust that level or how you do you doit.
simone0414 02-26-2012 06:34 PM
Sooo what would happen if you put WVO through this process? Would it make
biodiesel?:laugh:
I drip feed at a rate that the outlet can match, ie 2ltr/hr IN - 2ltr/hr OUT. The pipe
starts higher than the boiler , goes down below the boiler, then back up into top of
boiler.
If you put WVO through, I assume you would get WVO plus water out . The water
content would boil-off first and the Various chemical compounds of WVO next, no idea
what they are. All you are doing in this process is seperating chemicals by their
boiling/condensing point, with WMO you get lighter fuels like petrol first, down through
the various others to tar, diesel being just below the middle. Just look on google pic's
for oil refinery, they will show you what chemicals and what temps they are extracted.
Mtrans 02-26-2012 11:12 PM
Markthelark-sorry because of my English,

I am interested in how deep is pipe INSIDE of boiler,and how do you adjust that level of
oil INSIDE of boiler?
Can you be so kind to put picture of disel you get after refinery,I am interesting to see
color of that disel.

Mtrans 02-26-2012 11:17 PM
Hi to simone0414,I belive that we tolk before.

As I read you can get NO bio from Markthelark refinery,you must use Methanol and
KOH to made,but as you know I dont use WVO only WMO.
simone0414 02-27-2012 07:16 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtrans (Post 2940387)

Hi to simone0414,I belive that we tolk before.
As I read you can get NO bio from Markthelark refinery,you must use Methanol and
KOH to made,but as you know I dont use WVO only WMO.
Yes we have on the TDS. My comment was half joking & half serious. The reason is I
was reading up on a way that SVO can be converted into biogasoline. The processor
they described sounded very similar to the process discussed in this thread only in
addition they was adding some kind of catalyst which change the stucture of the SVO so
it could be used in a gasoline engine. The writeup was pretty vague & honestly I didn't
understand very well. I have been trying to find out more info on it but so far not much.
Perhaps the lack of info should tell me something.
Mtrans 02-27-2012 08:55 AM
If I remmember parhaps on infopop as well,That set up you read look like MLM aka
snake oil.
Mtrans - Pipe only just goes into the top.

I start the boiler empty (not producing), then turn on my feed. I would say less than a
ltr at any time, excluding the residue that I have not drained for some time.
The colour is redish, but goes darker when it cools.
late_99_PSD 02-27-2012 11:31 AM
I've ran waste motor oil before. The key is filtering good. Some people avoid this topic
like the plague, but as long as the trash is out of it you really can't hurt anything.
Cheers, been filtering to 1 micron, but still nrrd to improve as my inline filter clogged
after 500mls.
Were you mixing with derv, or straight wmo, too cold here to do that! My fuel is only
slightly thicker than diesel, prob the paraffin content, even after putting in freezer

slightly thicker than diesel, prob the paraffin content, even after putting in freezer
overnight.
late_99_PSD 02-27-2012 01:22 PM
I just took the 13 or so quarts from the engine, filtered it (probably not as well as I
should have), and dumped it in the tank, then drove to the pump and topped it off with
diesel. I think I also put about 2 or so quarts of ATF and about 3 gallons of waste
vegetable oil in too that tank. Ran fine, I didn't notice a difference.
What vehicle did you put it in ? The advert on the page was John Deere, maybe a
tractor?
Thought US could'nt get Top Gear , that's what Clackson said anyway.
Whats derv price with you now, it's going through the roof here at the mo ! Also , am I
right that a US gallon is about 3.8ltrs, just curious.
late_99_PSD 02-27-2012 03:29 PM
Oh, I put it in my 7.3. I love Top Gear, the BBC version anyway. The american one just
pales in comparison. derv price? Not sure what you mean. And, yeah I'm pretty sure
that's the conversion :thumb:
The average diesel car here is only 2.0/150bhp. Derv is what diesel is also known as
here.
I use to run my vehicles on SVO, straight from the supermarket some time ago, when it
was a lot cheaper than diesel , 100% in summer and winter, had a two tank system
with heat exchanger. Then the tax man realised what was doing on and imposed a
47p/ltr tax if you ran a vehicle on it ! Then they changed their minds and allowed
2500ltrs/yr, but by then the SVO was dearer than derv !!!!!!!!!
Be interested in you thoughts about my distilled WMO, could you call it Bio-diesel ? I
know that crude is classed as a fossil fuel, but crude was originally plant/animal .
Mtrans 02-28-2012 01:06 AM
Markthelark-if it`s paraffin content that isn`t problem put some 3-5% petrol if you
didn`t already,I buy paraffin oil and put in summer for cetane.As I see 1 micron should
be good,but your D parhaps have some solvents in so if it`s D tank in use before its
desolve some deposit that is INSIDE tank anyway(fuel line also),I have same prob after
1000km gone away.But I also change suplay line from tank,from 8 mm OD to 1/2" that
help a lot specialy in winter.
There are CentrifugalFilter(oil) on Ebay.uk for 90 gbp it`s verygood for WMO,but I
never test on D,there is some trick about CF if you go this way,for pump you can use
some tractor pump (hidraulic one) and 0.75 kw and more el.motor is good to push oil.
One thing more NEVER MIX WMO AND SVO/WVO. Separate as fuel is good but in mix
NO.
Do you have separate D tank for start/stop (2T) or only 1T,2T is much better sistem.
Do you get charcoal and did you try?

tried charcoal , no change in colour, will try it a different way and see. Laid-up with
back prob's at the mo, so won't be doing anything for next few days at least.
Mtrans 02-29-2012 09:25 AM
Overworking as I see,get good break.Best
Burner arrived, but unable to even walk to garage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Toolless 03-04-2012 03:37 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolless (Post 2909462)

The bit I dont understand is as the fuel comes out of the condensor
How dose it split between petrol and derv?
I though the boiling temprature did all that
Toolless 03-04-2012 03:41 PM
[QUOTE=Toolless;2915568]
What dose that black bucket do?
Toolless 03-04-2012 03:48 PM
[QUOTE=Toolless;2915568]
what dose that yellow bottle do?
Toolless 03-04-2012 03:51 PM
what dose that blue oil drum do?
Toolless 03-04-2012 03:56 PM
On your photos I dont see the condencer? that I saw on your hand drawn diagram
What distiling alcohol most people use a copper coil, do you not do so?
Also would not mind seeing a photo of the boiler behind the insulation you are using

Also would not mind seeing a photo of the boiler behind the insulation you are using
Toolless 03-04-2012 04:08 PM
fuel for the burner
Im thinking of using gas as my heating fuel

After the farmer and staff seeing all the oil drums in my shipping container
I have bee told 'no flamable liquids to be stored'
So I must be descrete
I think what you are doing using the left over petrol to heat the boiler would give off to
much smoke
So I thought the use of gas would not make any smoke for it to be seen
How much gas do you think I would use to run my boiler?

Also you mentioned you have a 7KG gas bottle
How many liters dose it hold
When you get callor gas bottles they are in KG's not liters like you buy LPG at the
pumps
I think it is a way to hide the fact that gas bottles are expensive
I think you can get an LPG to gas bottle fitting so you can fill your gas bottle up at the
filling station from the LPG pump
Toolless 03-04-2012 04:20 PM
Quote:

There are CentrifugalFilter(oil) on Ebay.uk for 90 gbp
CentrifugalFilter??????????????
1.The condensor is the bigger copper pipe with the water pipes connected and going to
and from the bucket of water.
2.The derv has condensed by the time it reaches the outlet, it then runs down the pipe
into the blue container.
3. The petrol is still vapor and travels to the yellow bottle, the inlet pipe is below water
level, when the vapors rise as bubbles through the water the petrol condenses and
floats on top, the remaining gases exit the bottle via a tube to be burnt-off.
4. When i used a butane 15kg bottle to supply the burner it lasted approx 70hrs.
5. I live in the country side and a little smoke is not a problem, but i have not fired up
my new burner yet.
6. Not sure how many litres the boiler holds, since i only have a small amount,less than
a ltr, in it at any time.
7.Will take pics of boiler soon, going to put a drain on it before i try new burner.
You will have to wait for a while, i have a trapped nerve in my back and can only just
walk a few steps, also a close family member is extremely ill and i am spending most of
my time with them.
Still happy to answer questions, but there may be a delay.
Mark
Mtrans 03-05-2012 10:47 AM
Quote:

Quote:

CentrifugalFilter??????????????
It`best to filter WMO.

Two type pressure CF and no pressure.I use pressure one,I need max 6 bar and about 5
lit/min,You MUST have some GEAR pump to do that,hidraulic or tractor ones.Of corse
you need to move big parts but on ends you get from 0.1-1 micron they say.
MANN+HUMMEL SG > Centrifugal Oil Cleaners > FM025
Simple Centrifuge ...putting a centrifuge in every garage!
Toolless 03-06-2012 09:54 AM
Is this what you mean by the condensor?

http://ebayphotos.webs.com/oilgggggg/2.bmp
http://ebayphotos.webs.com/oilgggggg/1.bmp
If so its very narrow and I cant see it cooling much

but as you said you are not doing that you still have the petrol vaporized when it leaves
How did you get a smaller tube to fit and seal inside a larger tube and what size pipe
are you using from for your vaporizer from the boiler to the diesel drum?
I was thinking of doing my condensor with an old oil drum and a copper coil inside
I would have to cut the drum in half to get the coil in and some how seal it back up
Do you think a plastic drum would melt
what do you think??
Also about the CF

It just looks like a standard oil filter found on a car
they wont last long and are non reusable and I think only filter to about 10 microns
No goo!
print.html?pp=40>
Mtrans 03-06-2012 11:47 AM
Because of good control and another thing I plan to use friends Disel/wmo gen, does 3*
2kw=6 kw total is good for boiler of 80 lit with 40 lit of wmo inside,any suggestion?
Mtrans 03-06-2012 11:57 AM
Toolless-Yes every RED is condensor.I also thing of big condensor but why because this
tube in tube work so good that even look too long.
About CF you are wrong.0.1-1 micron and it`s it`s reuse (cleanable).Hope I help little.
Toolless 03-06-2012 04:18 PM
Quote:

About CF you are wrong.0.1-1 micron and it`s it`s reuse (cleanable).Hope I help little.
well that a lot finer then the standard 10 micron oil filters

well that a lot finer then the standard 10 micron oil filters
But what you have quoted I dont think is enough to remove the carbon
Toolless 03-06-2012 04:21 PM
Boiler
Im thinking of getting a gas boiler

I think a boiler would be more effisent then the burner show on the diagram
But are boilers desined to pump continiusly and gut off the flame when it gets to a
cetain temprate
Mikey's250 03-06-2012 04:27 PM
What do y'all think of using an old gas hot water heater as the boiler? Its already
insulated and has a burner unit on it.
Mtrans 03-07-2012 09:33 AM
Toolless-oil filter has bypass so not good.
Markthelark-can you tell as is any difference in your D and pump one,aka same
mpg/litar, power is same or?
Also is temp of motor is same also?
Toolless 03-07-2012 10:28 AM
Quote:

Toolless-oil filter has bypass so not good.
If your refering to the CF then you run your bypass into your drum along with your
outlet
I dont see any benifit to it as opposed to the micron filter bag
Toolless 03-07-2012 10:31 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey's250 (Post 2958909)

What do y'all think of using an old gas hot water heater as the boiler? Its already
insulated and has a burner unit on it.
But it will all be wired up to switch off at a certain temprature and is desined to run with
constant fluid running through it, not drip fed as see in the diagram on an earlyer pag
Mikey's250 03-07-2012 10:52 AM
Quote:

But it will all be wired up to switch off at a certain temprature and is desined to run with
constant fluid running through it, not drip fed as see in the diagram on an earlyer pag
Well I was planning on disabling all the electronics but there may be better choices for a
burner.
Mtrans 03-08-2012 09:32 AM
Quote:

If your refering to the CF then you run your bypass into your drum along with your
outlet
I dont see any benifit to it as opposed to the micron filter bag
No CF dont have bypass,only motor oil filter has as I know.
Mtrans 03-13-2012 11:44 AM
Markthelark
can you clear one thing for me,when you start your boiler is there any oil in or you put
oil AFTER you heat boiler?
ps.I hope your back is better.
Hi All, Glad to see members keeping this thread alive , I've just returned home from a
spell in hospital, but wont be doing much on my new build for a week or so.
My new burner is a 60,000btu complete set-up from a home central heating boiler,
which will run on my produced fuel., it should use about 4ltr/hr as it's the same one i
have already running my own heating system.
The tube in tube condensor has worked well for the quantities i have been producing,
2-3ltr/hr, but i will require something much bigger with the new build, not yet decided
on what exactly yet though.
Also, i think i will use some sort of pump to input the raw wmo rather than the drip feed
system already in use. Will connect it up so if the burner fails it will shut off the pump
also as a failsafe.
The idea is to have as little wmo in the boiler as poss, just enough to keep the process
going, that way you will need less heating,and less fuel burned, to keep it going. Try
boiling a full pan of water on a stove and see how long it takes to boil, then try again
with about a quarter the amount, you will see how much quicker it boils, but still give-
off the same amount of steam.
As i have said a number of times before, this set-up was just to iron-out problems and
to see what was required to build a better system. The new build will have a slightly
larger boiler, maybe a 15kg gas bottle, top cut off and a plate with a large enough hole
in the middle to get you hand in to clean it out every now and then, another plate
bolted to this with the exit pipe for the gases and entry pipe for the wmo, the burner
will be controlled by a temp controller to keep the boiler at set temp, approx 330C, the
pump for the input wmo controlled to allow various amounts to enter the boiler, which i
will experiment with to see if the burner can maintain required temp. Aiming for at least

20ltr/hr, but will have to wait a see until it's up and running!b As for the condensor, i
want the derv outlet to be around 50/70C , working on a method of controlling this
temp, should'nt be too difficult, maybe a car coolant fan temp sender , normally about
100C, placed at a point somewhere upstream of the outlet should do, maybe linked to
fan.Also, will put a drain in the bottom of the boiler.
Any suggestions on what i have said are always greatfully accepted .
Once i have decided on exactly what i will do, i will take pic's as i proceed with the
build.
UK Derv now nearly 1.50 ltr , also, the 1 micron filter does not take out all the carbon,
will look into a centifuge to clean it up, but my vehicles have been running fine on what
comes out so far, i do need to change the inline filters every 500miles though, cost 99p.
My toyota 2.4 non turbo van with 175,000 miles starts and runs just the same as if
running diesel, even when the temp here got down to -10C.
That's all for now as i have other things to deal with, mainly arranging my fathers
funeral, who passed away whilst i was in hospital.
Feel free to continue to ask questions, but dont expect a reply straight away, saying
that, i need to get up 3/4 times a night to take medicine when the pain kicks in and
may use this time to read posts.
Best of luck to your all, enjoy you life and dont waste a minute of it !
Mark
Mtrans 03-18-2012 01:17 PM
Hi,live must go,sorry for your problems.

centifuge will NOT clean black (carbon) from WMO,but it will clean so good WMO that if
I can I put direct from CF to my tank,I dont have any 1 micron filter or so,just use
factory one.
If you put pump for WMO how can you control level in boiler?
Does pressure meter on boiler can tell something like level,tube can go to botom?
Toolless 03-18-2012 01:32 PM
Quote:

My new burner is a 60,000btu
????????????????????
Toolless 03-18-2012 01:41 PM
Quote:

The tube in tube condensor has worked well for the quantities i have been producing,
2-3ltr/hr, but i will require something much bigger with the new build, not yet decided
on what exactly yet though.
Well when I do mine im thinking of cutting 2 plastic drums in half, sloting them so they

Well when I do mine im thinking of cutting 2 plastic drums in half, sloting them so they
fit inside each other and cutting a hole in the screw on cap fittings and putting a plubing
nipple/ barb fitting inside the hole compresed with rubber washers
Then fitting 15mm copper pipe on each ends with a compesion nut
I some how plan on buying or making a 15mm copper coil to fit inside the drum or
drums
Drill holes in the end od the drums so a the threads of a BSP tail fittings would fit inside
Then lock the other end wiht a BSP nut
The idea of this is to fit a hose pipe over the tail and run it to the water pump
I then plan on glueing the to drum back together with the coil inside all bolted back
together
If you like I could draw you a diagram of this
Quote:

As i have said a number of times before, this set-up was just to iron-out problems and
to see what was required to build a better system. The new build will have a slightly
larger boiler, maybe a 15kg gas bottle, top cut off and a plate with a large enough hole
in the middle to get you hand in to clean it out every now and then, another plate
bolted to this with the exit pipe for the gases and entry pipe for the wmo, the burner
will be controlled by a temp controller to keep the boiler at set temp, approx 330C, the
pump for the input wmo controlled to allow various amounts to enter the boiler, which i
20ltr/hr, but will have to wait a see until it's up and running!b As for the condensor, i
want the derv outlet to be around 50/70C , working on a method of controlling this
temp, should'nt be too difficult, maybe a car coolant fan temp sender , normally about
100C, placed at a point somewhere upstream of the outlet should do, maybe linked to
fan.Also, will put a drain in the bottom of the boiler.
I dont understand the first bit?

I thought you where using a domestic boiler as the boiler and now you mention using a
15KG gas bottle?
As to the temp gage you can buy pressure vacum and temp gages on ebay from a fiver
upwards
Quote:

will look into a centifuge to clean it up,
Do you think this will do the job

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
Quote:

That's all for now as i have other things to deal with, mainly arranging my fathers
funeral, who passed away whilst i was in hospital.,
Im sending you my condolences
Fisrt off , i will measure the input and balance that to the output,which is how i have
been doing it so far.
At present i use a 7.5kg gas bottle as the boiler, going up in size really just to give me
more room at the top for the access plates.
Thought doing something like your set-up for the condensor, but thought coiling 15mm

copper may be a problem, thoughtof using something like a doubleheating radiator with
fans connected to a temp sender, but would like to see your set-up if poss. Main
problem is i need to control the output temp to a narrow margin 50-70C.
The centifuge is to be used on the produced fuel, i know it wont remove all the
carbon,but should clean it up a bit better.
I did think about using the whole central heating boiler and burner, but decided to stick
with something i know already works.
I am going to use the burner off the system though, it arrived a week ago,but not had
time or mobility to try it out. Plan is to try it on existing system first.
I have a lazer temp reader at the mo for taking readings, i.e. boiler temp, various parts
of the pipework etc.
Still using filter bags from epay to filter wmo down to 10 micron , and 1 micron for the
produced fuel.
As i said before, the the boiler temp on my new build will be controlled by a digital temp
controller (18 epay) with a thermocoupler attached to boiler, witch will control the
burner.
Thanks for the link, will look into using some sort of canister filters once i get it up and
running, hopefully in next two weeks or so.
Medication starting to work now,so i'am off back to my bed !
Mark
Mtrans 03-19-2012 01:35 PM
Do you think this will do the job

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
Yes,but find outside housing.
Toolless 03-19-2012 05:00 PM
Quote:

copper may be a problem
Pack it with sand and bung it up with cork screws

Quote:

Main problem is i need to control the output temp to a narrow margin 50-70C.
???????????
Hum, dont know what to say hear relly
As my idea about the 2 plastic oil drums is a big piece of kit and will drop the temp of
your oil a lot
As opposed to what you have been useing, running a coolent pipe around your boiling
pipe dose not get all the gases back to liquid
As you said you have a petrol and a derv type and the petrol is still a gas as it comes
out of your condensor

out of your condensor
Quote:

thoughtof using something like a doubleheating radiator with fans connected to a temp
sender, but would like to see your set-up if poss.
doubleheating radiator?????
Im not sure what you mean hear
Before you talked about using a 12v car radiator fans, am I on the right wave length
hear!?
I dont have a set up at the moment

Im just mixing my WMO with a lighter oil
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/bio...ck-diesel.html
Quote:

I did think about using the whole central heating boiler and burner, but decided to stick
with something i know already works.
I have picked up my gas caravan boiler and I plan to play around with it next week
First just to see if it works and boiles water
I took the solinoid out a while ago; taking the spring out so it was allways an open
valve so no fancy electrics
But that was for other uses
Will try and see if I can get it to boil water first before I start to boil oil and go down the
'cracking/ distilation' route
Quote:

The centifuge is to be used on the produced fuel, i know it wont remove all the
carbon,but should clean it up a bit better.
What are you going to use as your pump to pump the oil through the CF?
Quote:

Still using filter bags from epay to filter wmo down to 10 micron , and 1 micron for the
produced fuel.
Then you should have no problems with clogging your filters up on your van like you
said you had when you came back from Cornwall
Toolless 03-19-2012 05:26 PM
Quote:

If you put pump for WMO how can you control level in boiler?
Does pressure meter on boiler can tell something like level,tube can go to botom?
You could put a weighing scale under the boiler then you would know the net weight of
the boiler and how much extra liquid you have in your boiler by weight
But since OP has advocated the use of an electrical pump to pump his oil into the boiler
as opposed to what he was using before, which was gravity fed

as opposed to what he was using before, which was gravity fed
May I suggest installing float switches (electrical and metal switches) inside the boiler,
the bottom switch would be wired to two times 4 pin relays and would switch the pump
on
The top switch would also be wired to the same relays and would switch the pump off
This way you would not have an on off motion and thus burning out the pump
I have done this before on a mixer tank and can upload you a schematic should you
wish
But how you plumb the float switches into your boiler is your problem as Im not
prepeared to cut holes into my gas boiler and have oil leeks coming out under high
boiling pressure and to find out the floats where in the wrong posision to start with
Tooooo many questions !
Good idea about the float level indicator, but agree that it could be a weak point on the
boiler.
I want the outlet temp to stay above 50C so the petrol content will pass the derv outlet
and condense in the water bubbler, just as it does now, only a small % of petrol is
produced which i syphon off when there is enough.
The idea with the condensor was to maybe pass the hot gases through a double home
central heating radiator , and use the fans to blow cool air between them to bring the
temp down to give my output temp of 50 - 70C. Hope that's more clear, as i've said,
I'am writing these replies whilst on heavy medication, so what I write might not be as
clear as i think it is, maybe another poorly drawn diagram may help ?
Sorry if i've missed any of your questions , but don't know how to go-back on the
computer without losing my reply, next time i'll make a note first !
Thanks for your condolences , the funeral was yesterday, and went very well as funerals
go, weather great and the vic knew my father well, which helps alot. Today is another
day, they say, so time to move on.Will start the new build as soon as i'am well enough,
can't wait to test fire the new burner.
Keep those ideas coming, I'am open to any thoughts you may have, as my local garage
derv is now 1.50 ! One of my son's is even selling his petrol audi and going to buy a
306 TD, so he can use my fuel !
Will re-read posts now and will write more if i've missed something.
Mark
Made notes , great thing pencil and paper !
Have used salt to bend smaller sized copper pipe in the past, but didn't think it would
work on larger size pipe. If it does work, then all i would need to do would be to control
the water temp the pipe ran through, worth a try, thanks.
I don't think a caravan domestic water heater will get the temp high enough , but you
could construct a boiler using a 3kw element, guessing on the the size of the element,
but would think that should do it. It would mean using electricity,and therefore
money,to run the boiler, plus side is it would be safer than a naked flame that i use !
As for the wmo pump, not given much thought yet on what to use , maybe a old
dishwasher or washing machine pump might do the trick, need to give more thought on
that one, maybe epay can help !

Medication now starting to kick-in, off to bed now (3.55am here).
Sleep tight, and don't let the tax man bite !
Mark
Mtrans 03-20-2012 12:25 PM
Markthelark
old dishwasher or washing machine pump DON`T do the trick,I have been there,only
gear pump(power sterling from car,oil pump) or they say diafragm pump.
Another option is pressure at about max 1 bar is OK.
Cheers, will look into that, saved me some time and effort, thanks.
Mark
Hope to test fire my new burner sometime next week , but been a little distracted,
bought my very first two seat sports car , waited 34 years and just enjoying it at the
mo , it's 19 years old, no rushttp://img85.imageshack.us/img85/4442/fuji077.th.jpg
t and drives like new, try and post a pic. SORRY IT'S NOT DIESEL !
The woman is my wife and the guy is my number 1 donor/son !
Mtrans 03-22-2012 11:55 AM
Nice car even it`s not disel one.
Toolless 03-22-2012 04:01 PM
Quote:

Markthelark
old dishwasher or washing machine pump DON`T do the trick,I have been there,only
gear pump(power sterling from car,oil pump) or they say diafragm pump.
Another option is pressure at about max 1 bar is OK.
If your talking about the CF

I have read somewhere someone using a power steering pump driven by a washing
machine motor
Six0~Stroker 03-22-2012 04:03 PM
Nice Del Sol:thumb:

Toolless 03-22-2012 04:17 PM
Quote:

boiler.
I want the outlet temp to stay above 50C so the petrol content will pass the derv outlet
and condense in the water bubbler, just as it does now, only a small % of petrol is
produced which i syphon off when there is enough.
The idea with the condensor was to maybe pass the hot gases through a double home
central heating radiator , and use the fans to blow cool air between them to bring the
temp down to give my output temp of 50 - 70C.
Have you considered making a fractional distillation column

Fractional distillation - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Redirect Notice
Toolless 03-22-2012 04:49 PM
Is the pipe between the boiler and the condendor at an angle
And if so why?
Toolless 03-22-2012 04:55 PM
Quote:

boiler.
If you could somehow install a mini Ball c0ck float (the type used on toilets)
And have it plumbed up to your gravity feed system (shown in the diagram above)
somehow
Your waste oil tank would act as the header tank and your boiler would act as the top
part thingy majig on your toilet
You said you where going to carry on using a gas bottle as your boiler and you
mentioned before about cutting an inspection hole in the top for cleaning it out
If this is the case then you would have enough room in there to fit back nuts and
washers to float switches :wink[3]:
Thanks for your comments on the car , cheers.
Good idea on the pump arrangement ,will look into that.
Thought about building a coloum, but my set up seems to work ok for now, plus, it
looks very time consuming and difficult to construct. Maybe in the future if I find good
plans.
Just put slight angle to allow condensed gases to flow down to the outlet and not back

Just put slight angle to allow condensed gases to flow down to the outlet and not back
into the boiler.
Ball-**** in boiler- had thought about this, but it would be one more thing that could
go wrong, want to keep it simple. Also, want to get away from gravity feed system as I
would need to make the pipe larger to allow the higher quantities of wmo to flow to the
boiler. Plus the pump could be linked to the burner system, i.e. the burner fails and the
pump shuts off, stopping any overflow .
Sorry i haven't addressed these answers to correct people, it's hard enough to type in
the state i'am in , every other word appears with a red line underneath it !!!!
Mark
Mtrans 03-23-2012 01:27 PM
Washing mashine have pressure swich which react at about 10-15 lit of water,it can
adjust at less.I dont think that`ll hold 350 c parhaps if make siphon with little oil in as
block?
In boiler here hot water pipe go close to bottom(your also),so if boiler is turn for 180
and puting pressure meter on top, oil from bottom will show some pressure-litre.
Markthelark did you try pressure meter ?
The pump will be used on the cold side of the system, to pump raw wmo to the boiler,
so temp is not s problem. I'll look around to see what else i can use, just need
something that can deal with the viscosity and the output can be regulated. There's no
hurry at the mo , i haven't even tested by burner yet ! Not sure when I can start the
new build yet , as I'am either in a lot of pain, or so out of my mind on medication that
all i can do is go to bed ! I just get the odd hour or so in between , such as now, when I
wake up in pain and have to take my med's , but will back in bed within the hour !
3.35am here now.
Hopefully , over the next couple of weeks i will be able to reduce my medication and
have more normal time to do things, wont be working again for at least another 6
weeks, which is a bummer as i'am self employed, if i don't work, i don't earn any
money !!!
But will try to find a time to try-out new burner, can't wait ! Nor can my one son, who is
selling his petrol audi and buying a diesel, he wants to use my diesel as he can't afford
the cost of petrol any longer, like most people here in UK !!!
If anyone here in UK knows of a pump suitable to handle the viscosity of wmo, and can
be regulated, i.e 10 to 40 ltr/hr, please let me know.
Mark
Mtrans 03-24-2012 01:07 PM
I know that pump is on cold side ,but any sender kind will take 350 c.
Thanks for the info.

My middle son is keen to help me get my new build started, might be the fact he's just
bought a pug 306 TD ! So , tomorrow, or I should say today, we are going to clean up
my workshop,finished building my youngest son's bike yesterday, so now's a good time

my workshop,finished building my youngest son's bike yesterday, so now's a good time
to have a good clear-out, and get started on new build, with his help. Never seen him
so keen to offer help me before, must be the fact he doesn't want to pay 1.50 ltr at
the garage !
scriber 03-28-2012 04:22 AM
Hi mark, do you know any airconditioning people? They use a pump called peristaltic
pump. Mechanical Peristaltic Pump easy to control and lots about.
Mtrans 03-28-2012 11:46 AM
scriber-Thx for your help,pump itself isn`t problem.

Problem is how to detect level INSIDE boiler with 350 c in,and that sender is than eazy
to control pump.
I think of one veryyy pore solution,aka use Libra thing,whole setup is fixed on one side
but on another side is libra so if you know kg in empty setup you know how much oil to
put (~0.9 kg=1 lit?).You see I like DIY thing and most simple thing-mechanic ones.
Scriber , Yes i do know someone, will ask. Still yet to try-out my new burner on my
current set-up ! Hopefully in the next day or so.
Mtrans, As long as you control the input to match the output, that's all you need to do.
I.E. 20ltrs/hr IN = 20lts/hr OUT. This is not exactly true , there will be some residue left
in boiler, that's why you need a drain, to take this out every so often, maybe every
20/40ltrs or so , my new build will allow this to be done whilst boiler is running !
NOTE ; Just to explain one last time to everyone , this is a basic set-up.
You need to boil the wmo in a air free container (boiler) , i used an old gas bottle , to
about 350C. This will evaporate the derv and lighter fuels , make sure the outlet pipe is
about 250- 270C where it bends slightly down, towards condensor, this will stop the
heavy oils you don't want , they will condense in the verticle pipe before the bend and
just run back down into the boiler. These oils need to be drained off every now and
then , otherwise the boiler will fill-up with these and the process will slow down. Then
just condense the remaining gases down to about 50-70C at the outlet, this will allow
the lighter fuels to travel on to the bubbler and be condensed into a type of petrol , the
remaining gases can then be burned off.
The whole system needs to be air tight for the process to work correctly !
I suggest that people read this thread from the start , as i keep having to repeat
everything.
Please only ask questions that i've not covered , or give suggestions or ideas.
My first system, which i'am still using at the mo, produces a derv type fuel that runs my
vehicles with no prob's ! I get about 90% out from what i put in, with about 5% being
the petrol and 95% derv.
As I have explained before, this first system, which i get about 2/3ltrs/hr, was just to
test. My new system will have extra things added , like a better burner controlled by a
kiln temp sensor, a pump for the wmo instead of the drip feed system and a drain to
allow my to drain out unwanted boiled oil whilst system is still running , at the mo i
have to shut it down and allow to cool, then take it apart to clean, a real pain and a loss

have to shut it down and allow to cool, then take it apart to clean, a real pain and a loss
of time/heat ! A temp controlled condesor.
Mark
scriber 03-29-2012 04:26 AM
How about a sealed oil storage tank above the boiler. From the bottom of this run a
pipe vertical, into the center of the boiler to the level you need the oil to be. When the
oil gets low and uncovers the pipe air will enter and oil will fill. Try it with a 2l pop bottle
full off water in a dish . it will allways fill to the outlet pipe level. Not continious but
consistant.
Mtrans 03-29-2012 10:50 AM
Markthelark-there will be some residue left in boiler, that's why you need a drain, to
take this out every so often, maybe every 20/40ltrs or so , my new build will allow this
to be done whilst boiler is running !
What kind of valve you plan to use?
print.html?pp=40>
Mtrans - Not decided yet , something simple.
Scriber - Think I understand what you are getting at , would work, but I don't need to
know how much is in there really. My basic system has worked just fine , why
complicate it !
Mtrans 03-30-2012 10:39 AM
I think you plan pipe on bottom and away from boiler the valve come.They told me that
ball valve can`t get 350 c,do you have steam locomotive in yard?
valve
You have a sense of humour ! Thought only us brit's had that.
NO I don't have a steam train in my back yard, but take the point. The valve i use will
be able to take the temp, will look into it soon.
We have a fuel delivery strike pending here , people going mad buying up all the fuel!
Only wants me to be less reliant on them than before.
:hehe:

Things put on hold for a few more days on my new build, i have to rebuild my sons bike
engine !
James - Haven't forgot , will do it as soon as i get chance.
EUROTECH1986535 04-03-2012 02:49 PM
hey this is my first post here i have been running wmo/ waste automatic transmission
fluid as fuel for over a year this is my setup.
CLEANING BLACK DIESEL / WVO / WMO - YouTube
i also have a update video after a little over a year of running the fuel here
BLACK DIESEL PROCESSOR - YouTube
Hi , Not looked at the vid yet , but I assume you are just filtering the wmo before
putting it in the tank , I have met a number of people doing this, but they all seem to
have problems with their engines after a while of some sort or other, main problem is
viscosity ! One way around this would be to fit a heat exchanger
of some type. I don't have that problem with my set-up , I even put some in the freezer
over night , still ok next day.
Starting new build to day , well , I mean my son's are going to put-up the shed it will be
housed in ! Hope to start the actual build over the next few day's , under pressure from
one son who has bought a diesel car , peugeot 306 TD with a 1905 XUD engine, bosch
pump and other mod's , giving it 145BHP/25Olbs.
As to this car , it chucks out plenty of smoke , as you would expect , since in standard
form was only 92BHP , anyone know of a way to stop this, I did suggest to him some
way of burning it off in the exhaust !
Mark
Mtrans 04-06-2012 10:11 AM
What color is smoke?

black -unburnt fuel
grey-air, timing etc.
white-retard,it`s good for ours motors to go advansed little by little steps.
Reason-timing,blow by,pump and mostly injectors,you can DIY pop tester from 2 tons
hidraulic jack to test,on wmo I need to clean 1-2 kkm,and I get new first time after 20
yr on my Fiat.
He's happy to have the car smoke (black=unburnt fuel), as he likes the power. Only
way to stop it is either turn down the fuel input, or get more air in , since the turbo has
already been uprated, he only has option one!
Once the turbo is up to speed , about 2200rpm, the smoke stops.
Drove it the other day , goes like a rocket !!!!!!!!

Fired-up new burner this morn !
Will try later to see what I get from current set-up, not started new build yet.
Mark
Mtrans 04-13-2012 10:35 AM
Are Brit say-breake leg?
Only actor's say "break a leg" my dear boy !!!!
But thanks anyway.
Ran burner for 20 minutes to test it out today , had to remove controller and "hot wire"
it though.
Ordering my temp controller today , the problem I had with the test run was temp
control , it was getting too hot , my lazer temp gun only goes to 590C ,and when I
checked boiler temp , it was above that !!!!!! I knew there was a problem as it started
to chuck-out oil from the outlet ! Once it had cooled a little , it turned back to producing
Derv.
Before my main problem was not enough heat , now it's too much ! Hence the need for
the temp controller.
Mtrans 04-17-2012 10:49 AM
Hi to all!
Markthelark
you do big boiler,but I think (and start) from small 100 mm OD about 750 mm long
tube, with one 70 mm OD with 2 ceramic heaters up to 1 kw each,inside big one
tube.It`ll be horizontal setup,just as on WMO hose in hose heated and I know that is
better to heat more area (hope to have less tarr) and I`ll have ~max 5 lit inside.I`ll
have to control level close.Have you thinking - try something like,your answer please.
ps.send note
Hi Mtranss ,
All I have done recently is to fire-up new burner , still not feeling well enough to much
more at the mo !
I agree that it would be better to boil a greater area with the same amount of wmo ,
you should get more production. Have actually been thinking about building a boiler
along these lines.
If you can get the electric elements to work ok , there are positive and negatives.
+ = No fumes/smell to deal with , unless you burn-off the excess gases.
Cleaner .
- = Cost of heating the elements , should be low though.
If the elements are inside boiler , the problem if they go faulty. If external , no
prob's !

prob's !
I think I will build my new system the way I have already talked about , but think I will
give your suggestion some thought. The reason I'am sticking to building the new
system simular to the original , is I know what to do and what to expect.
Mtrans 04-18-2012 10:04 AM
Thx Mark
yes ceramic ones are INSIDE of f 70 mm tube,here not much $,but I will use gas as You
setup also,it`s under f 100 mm tube(boiler),any how I remmeber you look electric:
http://www.dodaj.rs/f/m/uL/NILBSpZ/201.jpg
My plan was also to have the thermocoupler inside a narrow tube inserted into the
boiler, rather than outside , where you would'nt get a true reading.
Still haven't started new build yet , too many other things going on , rebuilding one of
my sons complete suspension on his car at the mo !
Mtrans 04-19-2012 10:17 AM
Yea children much better than wife,but to be or not ?

I start my project, so HARD METAL WORK NOW, keep inform of corse,best.
Best of luck , hope to get really started next week !
ch08 04-22-2012 07:34 AM
hello can you please send me your email i need contact to you before i travel to china
and buy the equipment that does the same thing you are doing.
at santiagotejada@gmail.com
thanks
Mtrans 04-22-2012 12:03 PM
You can send note to Mark,just as I did, but is he read that?
CH08 , not sure who the post was intended for , if it was me I'am sure there is a
personal mail link , if not , will reply to your email.
I assume the equipment in China is for commercial use , it will be far more advanced
than my set-up , will give a better product too.

than my set-up , will give a better product too.
I'am just making it up as I go along , trial and error, but happy with my modest results
so far, it is for my personal use only , would'nt let anyone else use it in their engine,
just in case it caused damage , but so far so good in my own vehicles.
As I have said so many times before , this is not new , been around for years , in some
countries it is widely used.
Mark
ch08 04-23-2012 06:40 AM
Hello Mark; The equipment i want to buy is for comercial use, but i prefer if possible
before paying US$45,000 on 10 tons per day machine on china, make some test.. small
scale with my product to know what a have and what im going to get with it.
thank,
CH
Hi CH ,
There are company's here in UK that are distilling waste oil into diesel and petrol , infact
there is one to start shortly only 35 miles from me. The process does work , but on a
home made scale there are a number of problems , which I believe I have ironed-out
with my first build ; Heat control (key to flow rate and quality) , constant feed system
(either drip or pumped) , but my main problem , which is really easy to sort out , is the
filtering of the finished product, will be investing in a centrifuge, as currently I use filter
bags down to 1 micron but it's the carbon content which can cause problems long term
in the engine. The centrifuge will sort this out.
I haven't had my product tested , but used a hydrometer to back to back test with
diesel from the garage , was really close. My vehicles run fine , so far done about 4000
miles.
I am not looking to improve my system much further , it's only for myself and I'am ok
with what I 've got.
There must be some comercial set-up in the states !? Some company who you could
contact/ visit before you commit to buying from China , saying that , there seem's to be
a lot on the interweb from China about doing this , and they would be the cheapest to
buy from.
Bottom line is ; YES this really does work, and you can easily build something yourself
to see. There should be enough info in this thread if you read from the start,to set
yourself up.
Mark
Mtrans 11-19-2012 11:55 AM
Where are Britt`s when you need them?

Hi,I hope you are well and you burn YOUR disel.
I start 2nd prototype,few Q:
I put 2 lit of water and some oil before start to heat.
As I see tube for D in your setup go in open blue bucket,and I think you have some D
or water in because air stop,I made 2 lit OPEN bucket,supply line go to bottom and fill
w/water, in start I get white smoke not flammable but letter it`s flammable and after
that I get clear no flammable water steam/fog and lot of.Pick up tube for D is on top of
2 lit OPEN bucket of corse.
I have 200 c on top line from boiler(I didn`t go more)not 250 c as you suggested just
for test,but I have NOTHONG from second petrol bucket no gas no petrol.
I start pump almost same as you,just after I start to heat and have 80 c on pick up for

I start pump almost same as you,just after I start to heat and have 80 c on pick up for
D,that is why(and fog) I stop at 200 c.I think I need better cooling,because if I go to
250c I will get perhaps 110c on D outlet,w/my China lasser,is this too much?
Can you enlighten me,that it`s look like I haven`t have enough heat for gas/petrol or?
Did you put new setup in production?
ps:You aks if some will try something like you.
beyondbiodiesel 11-20-2012 08:48 AM
Hello Mtrans, it has been a long time since I last ran into you on alternative fuels
forums. Good to know that you are exploring WMO distillation. I have a section on my
forum for hydrocarbon cracking, pyrolysis and WMO distillation. You are welcome to
join, and I would like to see you on there, because I have found you always have
something meaningful to add to an alternative energy conversation. Link below:
hydrocarbon cracking and distillation
Mtrans 11-20-2012 10:44 AM
Hi Jeff.
My sistem is 50 lit boiler,condese pipe is OD 60 mm,than reduced to 1/2",tube in tube
for condese( that I think is small)Markthelark design,I put 6 * 3/8" steel pipe inside
boiler,and inside each 3/8 is 800 w electric heater-total 4.8 kw in two group comand by
PID,helped by LPG on begin and after I get gas I plan turnoff 1 or both group of electric
heater.
Perhaps i put too mach heat in short time? because at the end of condese pipe I have
90c and on top "just" 200c as I write before,or it`s too big too long?
Plan some air cooler at and of condense pipe and to find some car radiator after ?
50L (13US gal) sounds like a good size for a boiler/retort. Mine is 6 US gallons (22.7L).
Your pipe at 60 mm (2.4") is very good. Mine is only 1/4" (6.4mm). So far it hasn't
posed a problem, but I would like it to be larger. I think 1" would be good enough for
my retort size. After the condenser I too go to 1/2" tube in side 3/4" tube water-cooled
heat exchanger. Half inch might be small, maybe 1" would be better, but it works fine.
4.8 kw seems like a lot of electricity, but if it works, then great. I am running mine with
only 1500w. I plan to help it along with a wood stove on the bottom, but that will have
to come later.
Yes, 90C at the end of your condenser means you are losing a lot of fuel. I have an ice
packed 20 foot (3m) 3/8" (.95cm) dia copper tube, and I get significant amounts of
kerosene at the bottom of my water condenser and significant amounts of gasoline at
the bottom of my ice trap.
Water condensers with packing
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...enser01482.jpg
Ice trap
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/.../DSC_04942.jpg
Mtrans 11-21-2012 11:33 AM
Yes I read your post,lot of info,I 1st make some horisontal boiler that isn`t good in my
case because (I think low hight 150mm) so in 2nd shoot I go to 50 lit because it`s
factory made with my mod of corse,what will Asad say about that little?
I like simple setup(for everything)so I`ll try just one collection bucket for disel and

I like simple setup(for everything)so I`ll try just one collection bucket for disel and
petrol,what do you think about that mix-aka ~15%petrol in that disel,do you collect
enough D to testin motor?
Mtrans, I think keeping it simple is a good idea, and why not collect it all in one
container, but I am trying to understand a simplified distillation system, and the source
material for now, so I have 5 collection points at different temperatures. Also, several
traps seems to work better than one for trapping as much condensate as possible,
because losses means losing useable fuel.
I am keeping mine small at 6-gallons (13.7L) because I have a mobile system, and I
want to bring my distillation unit with me when I travel to archaeological projects, so
that I can fuel myself to the next archaeological project without spending a lot of money
on fuel.
Mtrans 11-24-2012 12:33 PM
I was thinkig that 10 lit bubler will do condesate also,I`ll fill with water as much as I
can.
This is first time I think that mobile setup perhaps will work,how about use exost heat
from motor?
Mtrans, I do not know how large a bubbler should be to avoid making the bubbler water
too acidic; so my solution is to direct the flow of the condenser water through the
bubbler, then let that water overflow and go down the drain. So far it has not posed a
problem in a 1L bubbler.
I have considered using the exhaust heat from the engine, to distill WMO while driving,
but it is a complication for now. in fact the unit is not even portable yet. Making the
WMO distillation unit portable is the plan. Right now, control is the issue, and that will
be better accomplished with electricity and PID controllers, and a data-acquisition
system.
Later, when I have the bugs worked out on a 5-10 gallon (20-40L) retort, then I plan to
shrink it down. Then utilizing exhaust heat will be on the agenda with wood heat also
being considered.
Getting the heat one needs to distill WMO in a 5-10 gallon (20-40L) retort from the
exhaust would require getting the retort right next to the exhaust manifold. My van
does not seem to have the room there, but I will give it some serious consideration.
Since this forum is so hostile toward me and turning WMO into diesel fuel, then I would
prefer to take this dialog to my forum, if you do not mind.
Hi Guy's ,
Nice to see my thread still going ,loads of new input too !
Have had all materials/bits for my new build for some time but not had the time to build
it yet.

it yet.
As I have said before , keep it simple , temperature control is everything. The boiler
needs to be around 350C and the top of the condensing tube around 250C , then as
cool as possible at the outlet - does'nt matter if you get some petrol in the final mix ,
it's such a small amount that it wont matter.
I agree that the main pipe needs to be at least 1" , or bigger if using a larger boiler.
My new boiler is about 5-7 gallons , with no more than a gallon of wmo in at any time.
Hoping to get about 20lts/hr, compared to the 3-4 ltrs/hr I got before.
Still not sourched my filter system yet , but plan to use a centrafuse , the old system
would take too long to filter, and its messy !!!!
Once I'am up and running I will post my results.
Good to hear from you Mark, I have dismantled my pyrolysis unit for weeks now, and I
am working on upgrading all aspects of it. I hope to fire it back up in a few weeks.
I am still working on a batch process and I am not working on a continuous feed

process, because I find a continuous feed process is more complicated and more meant
for commercial production; whereas, all I need is 5-gallons per day to meet my fuel
needs.
Continious feed is simple to rig , I use a gravity feed system. My original set-up had no
need of any other power sorce , but the new one will require a mains feed to run.
Mtrans 01-07-2013 12:03 PM
Hi Mark,glad you come back,

I try your gravity feed system,with MY kind of oil on 15c somehow it work ,but on 5c it
didn`t,so now I use gear pump.
What about your gas boiler?
If you have some gear pump good for 5l/h and 6 bar,than new pressure CF is ~100
GBP.
jameswoody 02-12-2013 05:07 AM
Oil distillation
I would like to get any info you may have to set up a similar distillation system. I live in
Central America and want to utilize the waste oil resource in combination with solar
heating. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Cashflo 03-04-2013 01:56 AM
The owner of Simple Centrifuge has played with cracking oil.

The owner of Simple Centrifuge has played with cracking oil.
Of course he uses electricity
Check out his gallery
print.html?pp=40>

Powerstroke Forum

Hochgeladen von

Dokumentinformationen

Originalbeschreibung:

Copyright

Verfügbare Formate

Dieses Dokument teilen

Dokument teilen oder einbetten

Freigabeoptionen

Stufen Sie dieses Dokument als nützlich ein?

Sind diese Inhalte unangemessen?

Copyright:

Verfügbare Formate

Powerstroke Forum

Hochgeladen von

Copyright:

Verfügbare Formate

jueves, 25 de septiembre de 2014 Osuna 02:21 p.m.

Markthelark 01-20-2012 10:45 PM

Diesel from waste motor oil

1. Both vehicles are running fine.

If anyone else is doing this I would be interested in their findings.

simone0414 01-21-2012 12:55 AM

Markthelark 01-21-2012 09:26 AM

Markthelark 01-21-2012 09:16 PM

Brief outline of what I'am doing;

Nueva seccin 1 pgina 1

bigboybadtoy 01-22-2012 09:41 AM

Markthelark 01-22-2012 10:47 AM

Will do, but a bit busy at the mo.

kahmann 01-24-2012 10:02 PM

Markthelark 01-25-2012 09:34 AM

jesilvas 01-25-2012 09:42 AM

Markthelark 01-25-2012 07:29 PM

Nueva seccin 1 pgina 2

Markthelark 01-25-2012 07:34 PM

Nueva seccin 1 pgina 3

Markthelark 01-25-2012 07:37 PM

Markthelark 01-25-2012 07:46 PM

To make higher quantities you would need bigger boiler/pipe diameters/better

jesilvas 01-25-2012 07:56 PM

Markthelark 01-25-2012 08:53 PM

kahmann 01-25-2012 10:07 PM

Markthelark 01-25-2012 10:09 PM

Nueva seccin 1 pgina 4

Markthelark 01-25-2012 10:12 PM

Hi Kahmann , seems so, but on bigger scale.

kahmann 01-26-2012 08:51 PM

Oil to Diesel Builds - Oil to Diesel Forums

Markthelark 01-27-2012 12:04 PM

simone0414 02-03-2012 03:57 PM

Markthelark 02-03-2012 06:26 PM

Should get some time next week to add pic's.

Toolless 02-04-2012 05:06 PM

Nueva seccin 1 pgina 5

Originally Posted by Markthelark (Post 2863996)

Markthelark 02-04-2012 09:17 PM

Where in UK are you ?

Toolless 02-05-2012 03:32 AM

Originally Posted by Markthelark (Post 2893446)

Nueva seccin 1 pgina 6

how do you attach the pipe to your gas bottle?

Markthelark 02-05-2012 07:47 AM

Where in UK are you ?

Toolless 02-05-2012 11:38 AM

Originally Posted by Markthelark (Post 2893919)

Where in UK are you ?

Im from Northampton but am up north west at the moment

Toolless 02-05-2012 11:40 AM

Originally Posted by Markthelark (Post 2893919)

Nueva seccin 1 pgina 7

do you have both pipes conected all the time?

Markthelark 02-05-2012 01:51 PM

Markthelark 02-05-2012 10:18 PM

Quick start-up procedure I use ;

Make sure all pipes secure.

Toolless 02-06-2012 12:46 PM

Originally Posted by Markthelark (Post 2894496)

Nueva seccin 1 pgina 8

Are you using a butane or propane bottle?