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Mobius Coils
[Note: This bulletin was first written many years ago, and has
sequential updates further down. My mobius coil practices have
changed slightly and evolved over time.]
Warning! Mobius coils are not necessarily inherently safe. Don Croft
said that the type of mobius coil he makes (single-knot mobius coil) is
safe, provided one either puts a crystal in it or places a boundary
wire around it. Otherwise it can cause undesirable energy phenomena.
He powers them with a 15hz frequency generator; I do not know
whether this caveat applies to passive (unpowered) mobius coils as
well. I am of the impression, though, that orgonite and/or water can
be substituted for a quartz crystal, as could various other stones.
Quartz is nevertheless very well-suited.
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Wire type: Magnet wire (which has only a very thin coat of
insulation) I have found somewhat difficult to make the doughnut
variety with. When using heavy magnet wire, e.g. 14g, it is difficult to
bend smoothly. When using thinner wire, e.g. 20g, one should secure
the open-ended side, a few inches from the ends, in a clamp or
something, and chuck the closed end in the drill; otherwise the ends
wrap so tightly in the drill that they are near-impossible to elegantly
unravel to make the ends available for connecting.
[Update Aug. 24, '06: See note below about wire types.]
But some people who are less lazy than myself (e.g. Bruce Stenulson)
can do remarkable things with electrified frequency tuners, and
probably should.
One of the best things to put in the loop with a mobius coil is one
or more other mobius coils! Whether passive or powered by an earth
battery. I have not tried this with a frequency generator yet, but
Jon said that he had trouble getting the various coils (hooked up in
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This coil is powered by such a circuit. Can you feel the vibe?
If you wrap the coil with aluminum foil or aluminum tape, it seems
to really improve the power. Al Gray got us started on that habit.
Lately I have been getting into wrapping with aluminum, then (a la
Reichian orgone accumulator) a layer of cellophane tape or electrical
tape. Note that some brands of electrical tape have a very dull
energy, and others very good energy; there is some cheap Taiwanese
tape around that I prefer.
Then (room providing) more layers, as described more fully below.
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If making a copper wand, you may wish to bare the wire ends and
tape them around the pipe, so the pipe itself is connected to the
wire. This also seems to benefit the energy. And one can always undo
the tape at the end, and temporarily connect the coil to an earth
battery or whatever if one desires.
The longest mobius coil I have made was with 500' of 14g plastic-
insulated wire, doubled over, i.e. probably close to 200' of cable
after the shrinkage resulting from doubling and twisting.) This was
spirally-wrapped one layer thick, taped in place with aluminum tape,
and the wrap continued back over the tape the other way. Repeated 3
or 4 times. Was it worth the hassle? Not until I then did my "eclectic
layering" using copper foil, tape, and labyrinths (see OTBs 9 & 12)
which amped it up big time.
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In February, 2004, Kininigin came out with the scarab coil. Here's a
tutorial. This is a fairly intense little passive coil. Some people make
smaller ones and wear them as rings, and credit them with amazing
powers. Some put them on the ends of CB pipes for an extra boost.
The coils, like the scarab coils proper, have a direction. If wound left
over right, as Kin suggests results in a coil in which the energy goes
mainly out the end away from where the wire ends end up. Also this
striated selenite has a definite direction, which I put agreeing with
the coils here.
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he'd made: a mobius coil can be passively driven with a magnet. Put
one lead on the north end and one lead on the south. You need to be
able to discern WHICH lead goes on which end, as one will work a lot
better than the other.
Also, even a passive mobius alone will have a + side and a minus side.
You want to make sure the + side faces toward the business end of
the crystal.
Anyway, this magnet thing feels pretty impressive, if strong magnets
are used. I just did this with a stack of neodymium magnets. Also
taped a piece of hematite and a bismuth pellet to the mags for
synergy. This works well in conjunction with a potentiometer tuner
arrangement. Makes it much more powerful, but still needs no
electrical input.
The twist should always be done with the drill in reverse mode.
Though the other way is powerful, too, to me the reverse mode
makes a coil that has a quality of resolving discordancy, whereas the
forward mode makes a more discordant field that is slightly
uncomfortable to be around. In a regular mobe. In the scarab coil,
the forward twist actually feels mellower, but is not effective
against demons like the reverse twist. So either coil type, you want
to go reverse mode.
Also, when making a (non-scarab) mobius, you want to wrap the cable
with the same "twist" direction; it should go like the threads of a
screw.
I have not made any new scarab-type coils lately. I doubt they would
be better, and they certainly won't be easier to make, than my short
mobes.
Longer is not better. I don't care what your spam basket says. It
was sheer stupidity of me to make mobes hundreds of feet long. I
could have gotten better results much more cheaply and easily with a
short coil of dowsed length. And saved a lot of space, too. Al was
right.
Lately I am favoring (for 22g phone wire doubled over to make
4-strand cable) lengths of 9'3.5" and 27' 5". That's length of the
single strand before folding, not counting some extra length needed
for the 2 leads. The larger length is not superior except where a
longer coil is required to physically encircle a larger object.
Different lengths would apply for different gauge wire.
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On the last thing I made, I did the same thing around one of the
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How many turns should one go around before securing the ends? I
dowse that the best number is 4, with 2 being a very close second.
Three is not as good.
Wire types: Again, Al was way ahead of me on this. I now dowse that
the best wire is 24awg, whether solid or stranded, whether for
active or passive use. Followed closely by 22g.
This is good to know, because I have mainly found 22g sold as phone
cable with a second sheath of insulation around 4 or more separate
insulated strands. It is good stuff, and very inexpensive compared to
most wire, but it's a real hassle to remove the outer sheath without
scraping off some of the insulation around the separate wires inside.
Whereas, 24awg is often sold in spools of one insulated wire.
Beware, a lot of this stuff has flouride compounds like PTFE (Teflon).
It should be labeled as such, because this is a more expensive
feature. It may be called "shielded" or military grade or something
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like that. Artificial flouride compounds have a bad vibe, and this type
of wire is not recommended for energy devices!
Some wires are tinned or silver-coated. The additional metal coat is
desirable
I found some here. 5 sets make almost 1000' of wire, and with
shipping costs about what the last spool I bid on at eBay sold for
with shipping. The eBay spool was 1000' of tinned cu. The problem is
that most of what comes in the kits I got is in lengths of of 5
meters. Fortunately, this works out, as the best 24g lengths I dowse
as 6'5.5" and and 9'4" to 9'5", excluding leads. So one can get one of
each out of every little roll, and have just a few inches left over for
splicing onto sturdier lead wires.
Incidentally, when making any splices that will be buried under resin,
make sure the connection is real tight. Finding that your masterpiece
lacks continuity once cured is most disheartening. Either solder it, or
twist very tightly and "waterproof" the junction with silicone seal or
tape or something. What presumably happens is that hot resin likes
to seep into tight spaces like between wires, placing an insulative coat
where you don't want it.
I will be trying butt splices in my next pour. You can get a couple
dozen of these at any hardware store for a few bucks. You will also
need a crimping tool, such as is on most wire strippers. Crimp snugly.
I will be sealing the ends of the splice tubes with dabs of silicone
anyway, because I hate to gamble.
Here is a conversion table into mm wire sizes. I do not know what is
commonly sold in the way of European sizes around the range of
22-24awg, but I get that .54mm would be pretty ideal.
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Correction about mobius strips: What Kneweyes did, and what works
best, is to put the two bare sides of the tape ends together for
conductivity, and tape them in place with duct tape. This is
significantly superior to using the tape glue, because it is an
insulator. Unless you are using specialized metal tape with conductive
glue. But unless you are doing a single loop, or otherwise not having
the loops touch, you don't want conductive glue, either, because you
do want insulation between the layers. I think a strip made with bare
metal against bare metal will work, but not nearly as well.
This means also that one should beware of shorting out the strip by
folding bare sections of ends over the bare wrap; one can put tape
over the section which will be under the bare end.
Also recently I found that silk is superior to metal for mobius strips.
Narrow silk ribbon is available on eBay, not expensive. Again, it is
probably best to have the ends touching without glue.
The ribbon is very narrow, about 1/8", and awkward to work with
unless you have good eyes and nimble fingers. I just position the ends
and tape into place
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So ordinarily I
have absolutely
no reason to
make a
4-strand cable.
Although, on
rare occasions,
it may dowse as
better for a
particular
application, as
might a cable
that goes
around the loop
several times.
Another
exception is
what I term an interface coil. This is a 4-strand coil that actually
consists of 2 separate circuits. This creates an energetically-
intimate interface between 2 circuits that is not electrically
conductive. So one could, for example, have a non-electric circuit
using the yellow mobe, thus married to the red mobe that has a
555-timer device pumping juice through it.
Of course I'm a wild man who, in this instance, put a separate passive
"electronic" circuit (OTB 30) on each mobe which is beyond most
people.
Loohan
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