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Contents

9 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

II FOREWORD BY MARCELLA H A Z A N

13 INTRODUCTION BY SHIRLEY CORRIHER

15 PREFACE

19 THE ITALIAN PANTRY

24 SOME ESSENTIAL TECHNIQUES

33 APPETIZERS

43 SOUPS

63 PASTA AND RICE

89 FISH A N D SHELLFISH

109 MEATS

159 VEGETABLES

183 SALADS

197 DESSERTS

219 MENUS

Simple Family Menus

Elegant Sit-Down Menus

Buffet and Picnic Menus

249 INDEX

256 I N D E X OF RECIPES T H A T C A N BE M A D E A H E A D
Fusilli with Sausage and Leeks
FUSILLI Al PORRI E SALSICCIA

The sweetness of leeks and the savoriness of pork sausage make a wonderful combination in
this pasta dish. The sauce is equally good with the long telephone-cord-shaped fusilli or the
short spiral fusilli.

minn tes from start to finish

3 medium leeks Salt


8 ounces mild Italian sausage, casings Freshly ground black pepper
removed, or Homemade Pork 1 pound fusilli
l
Sausage (page 49) A cup freshly grated Parmigiano-
2 tablespoons butter Reggiano

i . Cut off the root ends of the leeks and trim the tough green tops of the leaves. Cut the leeks
crosswise in half and then lengthwise in half again. Cut each quarter in long, very thin strips
and place in a large bowl of cold water to soak.
2. Put the sausage and lA cup water in a i o - to 12-inch saute pan and place it over medium-
high heat. Break up the sausage with a wooden spoon and cook until all the water is evapo-
rated and the sausage begins to brown lightly.
3. Fill a pot for the pasta with at least 4 quarts water and place it over high heat.
5. Lift the leeks out of the water, so that any dirt remains in the bottom of the bowl. Discard
any fat the sausage may have released, add the butter and leeks to the saute pan, and season
with salt and pepper (bear in mind that the sausage is already seasoned). Turn the heat down
to medium-low and cover the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are wilted and
very tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
5. After the leeks have been cooking for about 12 minutes and the water for the pasta has
come to a boil, add 1 tablespoon salt to the boiling water, put in the pasta, and stir well.
6. While the pasta and the leeks are cooking, grate the cheese.

72 EVERY NIGHT ITALIAN


7. W h e n the leeks are tender, uncover the pan and raise the heat to medium-high. Cook, stir-
ring, until all the water the leeks release evaporates. Remove from the heat.
8. W h e n the pasta is al dente, drain it and toss it with the sauce and grated cheese. Serve at
once.
SERVES 4 TO 6 PEOPLE

PASTA AND RICE 73


Mushroom, Arugula,
and Parmesan Salad
INSALATA Dl FUNGHI, RUCOLA, E PARMIGIANO

Mushroom and Parmesan salad is often found in Italy in the fall, when it is made with ovuli,
a wild mushroom that is excellent raw. W h e n using the milder cultivated mushrooms, I have
found the peppery taste of arugula adds a richness of flavor that makes up for the absence of
ovuli. Now that a wide variety of wild mushrooms is available in some markets, you may want
to experiment with some and omit the arugula. This dish is excellent as an appetizer or a more
substantial salad at the end of a meal.

minutes from start to finish

6 ounces arugula 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon


8 ounces firm cremini or white juice
mushrooms Freshly ground black pepper
l
Salt /2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano shavings,
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil cut with a vegetable peeler

i . Remove the stems from the arugula and rinse the leaves in several changes of cold water.
2. Wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel and trim the stems if bruised. Very
thinly slice the mushrooms lengthwise.
3. In a salad bowl, combine the mushrooms and arugula. Season with salt, the olive oil, lemon
juice, and pepper. Toss until the arugula and mushrooms are well coated with the dressing.
Transfer the salad to individual salad plates and top with the Parmigiano-Reggiano shavings.
SERVES 4 TO 6 PEOPLE

186 EVERY NIGHT ITALIAN


Index
A B brasato mantovano alia zucca,
agnello mantovano, 144 balsamic vinegar, grilled 151
almond: mushrooms with, 36 bread, tomato, and basil
bread pudding, 202-3 barley, escarole, and bean salad, 193
cookies, lemon-scented, soup, 44 bread pudding, almond,
216 basil: 202-3
amaretti and chocolate orecchiette with fresh broccoli, bucatini with
custard, 206 tomato, ricotta salata sardines and, Sicilian
amaretto cookie frozen and, 75 style, 76-77
dessert, 211 tomato and bread salad, 193 brodo di came, 45
anchovy(ies), 22-23 tomato and mozzarella broth:
and caper sauce, salmon salad, 187 homemade meat, 45
fillets with, 94-95 bean(s): mini meatballs in, 58
spaghetti with tomatoes cannellini, beef stew with bucatini coi broccoli e le
and, 6$ sage and, 152-53 sarde, 76-77
appetizers, 33-41 escarole and barley soup, 44 bucatini con salsiccia e
apple: and sausage, 139-40 cipolla, 74
and pear gratin, 204 shrimp and, 106 bucatini:
pie, Italian, 198-99 Tuscan, with tomatoes and with broccoli and sardines,
arrosto di maiale alia verza, rosemary, 173 Sicilian style, 76-77
137-38 see also green beans with sausage and onions,
arrosto di vitello ripieno di beef: 74
spinaci, 130-31 braised in milk, 150 budino dipane alle mandorle,
artichoke(s), 28-39 ground, zucchini stuffed 202-3
and potato casserole, with mozzarella and, butternut squash risotto,
170-71 166-67 80-81
arugula: slow-cooked, with juniper
crostini with tomatoes and, berries, 149 c
35 stew with cannellini beans cake, rum and strawberry
fresh tuna and tomato, and sage, 152-53 layer, 207
34 tenderloin braised in three calamari ripieni con salsa di
mushroom and Parmesan wines, 146 ceci, 38-39
salad, 186 tenderloin with black calf's liver with raisins and
asparagus: olives, 145 onions, 134
grilled chicken breast biscotti alle mandorle, 216 cannellini beans, beef stew
stuffed with fontina and, brandy, devil's shrimp w i t h with sage and, 152-53
112-13 fresh tomatoes and, 104 caper(s), 22
risotto w i t h shrimp and, branzino marinato allimone, and anchovy sauce, salmon
84-85 40 fillets with, 94-95

249
carciofi epatate al forno, chicken breast fillets (cont) crostini w i t h tomatoes and
170-71 w i t h porcini mushrooms, arugula, 35
carote al burro e formaggio, 116-17 custard, chocolate and
160 w i t h red and yellow pep- amaretti, 206
carote al Marsala, 161 pers, 114-15
carrots: chickpeas, rustic soup with D
sauteed, w i t h Marsala, 161 porcini and, 55 desserts, 197-217
sauteed, w i t h Parmesan chickpea sauce, stuffed squid devil's shrimp w i t h brandy
cheese, 160 with, 38-39 and fresh tomatoes, 104
casserole: chocolate: dolce di fragole, 207
baked ham-and-cheese rice, and amaretti custard, 206
86-87 puffs, 217 E
tricolor vegetable, 180-81 ricotta pudding, 205 egg and lemon glaze, braised
cauliflower: sauce, warm, coffee-fla- lamb with, 144
fusilli with black olives and, vored frozen dessert eggplant, fresh tomatoes, and
70-71 with, 212-13 mozzarella, thin
gratin with tomato and "Christmas tree" salmon, 96 spaghetti with, 66-67
fresh sheep's milk ciuffi di cioccolato, 217 escarole, bean, and barley
cheese, 176-77 clam soup w i t h fresh toma- soup, 44
cavolfiore al forno con pri- toes, 61
mosale, 176-77 coffee-flavored frozen dessert F
celery root and potato soup, 54 w i t h warm chocolate fagioli alpomodoro, 173
cheese-and-ham rice casse- sauce, 212-13 fagiolini in umido, 172
role, baked, 86-87 cookies, lemon-scented fagiolini marinati, 190
chicken: almond, 216 fegato in saor, 134
with green olives, 120-21 costoletta di vitello ai ferri, fennel:
salad w i t h pomegranate, 127 fresh, pork chops with, 136
pine nuts, and raisins, costolette di agnello al forno, gratineed, w i t h Parmesan
196 142 cheese, 174
chicken, braised: costolette di agnello saporite, filetti di pesce in padella con
with porcini mushrooms, 141 porri epeperoni, 90-91
122-23 costolette di maiale al flnoc- filetto di hue alle olive, 145
with red wine, 119 chio, 136 filetto di bue al Marsala, 146
with tomatoes and black costolette di maiale alVuva, finocchi alia parmigiana,
olives, 124-25 135 174
chicken breast: cozze in graticola, 37 fiorentina, la, 147
boneless, with three pep- crabs, grilled soft-shell, fish, 89-103
pers, I I O - I I Adriatic style, 107 baked i n foil with juniper
boning of, 30-31 crema di cioccolata e berries, 102-3
filleting of, 32 amaretti, 206 poached, w i t h a savory
grilled, stuffed w i t h aspara- crema di ricotta al cioccolato, green sauce, 97
gus and fontina, 112-13 205 whole, baked i n salt, 101
chicken breast fillets: crostata all'arancia, 200-201 see also shellfish; specific
rolled with pancetta, rose- crostini alpomodoro e fish
mary, and sage, 118 rucola, 35 flank steak, grilled, 148

250 EVERY NIGHT ITALIAN


fontina, grilled chicken breast green beans (cont.) K
stuffed w i t h asparagus tomatoes, yellow peppers knives, sharpening of, 27
and, 112-13 and tuna in a mustard
fricco di agnello alia cernaia, 143 dressing, 194-95 L
frittata alle cipolline, 41 green sauce, savory, poached lamb:
frozen dessert: fish with, 97 braised, w i t h an egg and
amaretto cookie, 211 lemon glaze, 144
coffee-flavored, w i t h warm H chops, grilled, with a lemon
chocolate sauce, 212-13 halibut fillets sauteed w i t h and vinegar sauce, 141
fruit marinated w i t h kirsch, leeks and red peppers, rack of, encrusted w i t h
mixed, 215 90-91 Parmesan cheese, 142
frutta mist a al kirsch, 215 ham: shoulder braised with
funghi ai ferri alia moda dei -and-cheese rice casserole, tomatoes, 143
porcini, 162 baked, 86-87 leeks:
rhnghi ai ferri alV ace to green beans with fresh fusilli with sausage and,
balsamico, 36 tomatoes and, 172 72-73
fusilli aiporri e salsiccia, herbs, 23 halibut fillets sauteed w i t h
72-73 red peppers and, 90-91
fusilli al cavolfiore e olive, I lemon:
70-71 ice cream, pineapple, 210 and egg glaze, braised lamb
fusilli: insalata caprese, 187 with, 144
with cauliflower and black insalata croccante, 185 -scented almond cookies,
olives, 70-71 insalata di cavolo nero, 216
with sausage and leeks, 191 thinly sliced sea bass mari-
72-73 insalata di cipolle al forno, nated in, 40
188-89 turkey breast fillets with
G insalata di funghi, rucola, e olive and, 126
gamheri coi fagioli, 106 parmigiano, 186 and vinegar sauce, lamb
gamberi del diavolo, i, 104 insalata di polio col chops grilled with, 141
gamberoni al forno, 105 melograno, 196 linguine ai gamberi,
garlic, 22 insalata di riso e tonno, 192 78-79
pan-roasted pompano fil- insalata di tonno e fagiolini, linguine with shrimp,
lets w i t h rosemary and, 194-95 78-79
92 insalata mista, 184 liver, calf's, with raisins and
gelato di ananas, 210 Italian apple pie, 198-99 onions, 134
glazed peaches in white wine, Italian open-faced omelet
214 with scallions, 41 M
granchi in graticola, 107 Italian pantry, 19-23 manzo allatte, 150
grapes, sauteed pork chops Marsala:
with, 135 J fresh tuna steaks w i t h
gratin, apple and pear, 204 juniper berries: mushrooms and, 98-99
green beans: fish baked i n foil with, sauteed carrots with, 161
with fresh tomatoes and 102-3 sauteed
ham, 172 slow-cooked beef with, meat, 109-57
marinated, 190 149 broth, homemade, 45

INDEX 251
meat (cont.) Parmesan cheese:
pie, "pizza" style, 156-57
o gratineed fennel with, 174
savory three-meat loaf with olive oil, 19 mushroom and arugula
simple tomato sauce, olive(s):
salad, 186
green, chicken with, 120-21
154-55 rack of lamb encrusted
turkey breast fillets with
see also specific meats with, 142
lemon and, 126
meatballs i n broth, mini, sauteed carrots with, 160
olives, black:
58 Parmigiano-Reggiano, 21
with beef tenderloin, 145
menus, 219-48 parsley, 23
chicken braised with
buffet and picnic, 243-48 pasta, 20, 63-79
tomatoes and, 124-25
elegant sit-down, 233-42 see also specific pastas
fusilli with cauliflower and,
simple family, 221-32 pasticcio di mele epere, 204
70-71
milk, beef braised in, 150 patate stufate, 168
red snapper w i t h fresh
minestra ai fhnghi porcini, peaches, glazed, in white
tomatoes and, 93
46-47 wine, 214
omelet, Italian open-faced,
minestra dipatate e fondo di pear and apple gratin, 204
with scallions, 41
sedano, 54 pecorino romano, 21
onions:
minestra maritata, 56-57 peperoni gra tina ti, 175
bucatini with sausage and,
minestra nel sacchetto, 59 74 pepper(s), 20
mint, fresh, zucchini with, calf's liver with raisins and, cutting of, 26
163 134 green and yellow, veal stew
mixed green salad, 184 chopping of, 25 with, 128-29
mozzarella: potatoes stewed with red, green, and yellow,
thin spaghetti with egg- tomatoes and, 168 gratineed, 175
plant, fresh tomatoes red, baked, summer salad red, halibut fillets sauteed
and, 66-67 with, 188-89 w i t h leeks and, 90-91
tomato and basil salad, spaghetti with tomatoes red and yellow, chicken
187 and, 64 breast fillets with, 114-15
zucchini stuffed with zucchini sauteed with red and yellow, risotto,
ground beef and, 166-67 tomatoes and, 164 82-83
M r s . Torti's zucchini, 165 orange tart, Sicilian, 200-201 three, boneless breast of
mushroom(s): orecchiette alpomodoro e chicken with, 110-11
arugula and Parmesan ricotta salata, 75 yellow, tomatoes, green
salad, 186 orecchiette with fresh beans and tuna in a
fresh tuna steaks with tomato, basil, and ricotta mustard dressing, 194-95
Marsala and, 98-99 salata, 75 pesce al cartoccio col
grilled, with balsamic vine- ossobuco in agrodolce, ginepro, 102-3
gar, 36 132-33 pesce alpomodoro e olive, 93
portobello, grilled, porcini pesce al sale, 101
style, 162 P pesce in graticola alVadriatica,
wild, and potato soup, pancetta, 22 100
52-53 chicken breast fillets rolled pesce lesso con salsa verde, yy
see also porcini mush- w i t h rosemary, sage and, pesche al vino, 214
room(s) 118 petti di polio alia boscaiola,
mussels, gratineed, 37 pane e pomodoro, 193 116-17

252 EVERY NIGHT ITALIAN


petti di polio alia campagnola, pork chops: riso alforno, 86-87
114-15 with fresh fennel, 136 risotto:
petti di polio alia Guido Reni, sauteed, with grapes, 135 butternut squash, 80-81
112-13 portobello mushrooms, red and yellow pepper,
petti di polio arrotolati, 118 grilled, porcini style, 162 82-83
petti di polio tricolore, potato(es): with shrimp and asparagus,
IIO-II and artichoke casserole, 84-85
petto di tacchino alle olive, 170-71 the un-, 88
126 and celery root soup, 54 risotto ai peperoni e
pie, Italian apple, 198-99 porcini mashed, 169 pomodoro fresco, 82-83
pineapple ice cream, 210 stewed with onions and risotto alprofumo di zucca,
pine nuts, chicken salad with tomatoes, 168 80-81
pomegranate, raisins and, and wild mushroom soup, risotto coigamberi e asparagi,
196 52-53 84-85
"pizza" di carne, 156-57 pot roast braised with butter- risotto finto, 88
polio aiporcini secchi, nut squash, 151 rosemary:
122-23 pudding: chicken breast fillets rolled
polio al chianti, 119 almond bread, 202-3 with pancetta, sage and,
polio alle olive verdi, 120-21 chocolate ricotta, 205 118
polio alpomodoro e olive, pure dipatate aiporcini, 169 pan-roasted pompano
124-25 fillets with garlic and, 92
polpettine in brodo, 58 R shrimp broiled with, 105
polpettone saporito, 154-55 raisins: Tuscan beans with toma-
pomegranate, chicken salad calf's liver with onions and, toes and, 173
with pine nuts, raisins 134 rum and strawberry layer
and, 196 chicken salad with pome- cake, 207
pompano al rosmarino, granate, pine nuts and,
92 196 S
pompano fillets, pan-roasted, red and yellow pepper risotto, sage:
with rosemary and garlic, 82-83 beef stew with cannellini
92 red cabbage slaw, 191 beans and, 152-53
porcini mushroom(s): red snapper with fresh toma- chicken breast fillets rolled
chicken braised with, toes and black olives, 93 with pancetta, rosemary
122-23 red wine, chicken braised and, 118
chicken breast fillets with, with, 119 -scented grilled veal chops,
116-17 ribollita, la, 50-51 127
dried, 21 rice, 20, 80-88 salads, 183-96
mashed potatoes, 169 casserole, baked ham-and- chicken, with pomegran-
rustic soup with chickpeas cheese, 86-87 ate, pine nuts, and
and, 55 Italian, and tuna salad, 192 raisins, 196
soup, 46-47 ricotta chocolate pudding, crunchy, 185
pork: 205 marinated green beans, 190
loin braised with Savoy ricotta salata, orecchiette mixed green, 184
cabbage, 137-38 with fresh tomato, basil mushroom, arugula, and
sausage, homemade, 49 and, 75 Parmesan, 186

INDEX 253
salads (cont.) sheep's milk cheese, fresh, spaghetti alia carbonara con
red cabbage slaw, 191 cauliflower gratin with zucchine, 68-69
summer, with baked red tomato and, 176-77 spaghetti alpomodoro e
onions, 188-89 shellfish, 104-7 acciughe, 6$
tomato, basil, and bread, shrimp: spaghetti alpomodoro e
193 and beans, 106 cipolle, 64
tomato, mozzarella, and broiled with rosemary, 105 spaghetdni alle melanzane e
basil, 187 devil's, w i t h brandy and mozzarella, 66-6j
tomatoes, green beans, fresh tomatoes, 104 spezzadno di manzo coi
yellow peppers, and tuna linguine with, 78-79 fagioli, 152-53
in a mustard dressing, risotto with asparagus and, spezzadno di vitello coi
194-95 84-85 peperoni, 128-29
tuna and Italian rice, 192 Sicilian orange tart, 200-201 spinach:
salmon: soft-shell crabs, grilled, loaf, 179
"Christmas tree," 96 Adriatic style, 107 pan-roasted veal stuffed
fillets with a caper and soups, 43-66 with, 130-31
anchovy sauce, 94-95 in a bag, 59 squash, butternut:
salmone al sugo di acciughe, celery root and potato, 54 pot roast braised with,
94-95 clam, with fresh tomatoes, 151
salmone "natalizio, "96 61 risotto, 80-81
salsicce e fagioli, 139-40 classic Tuscan vegetable, squid, stuffed, w i t h chickpea
salsiccia di maiale, 49 50-51 sauce, 38-39
salt, 19 escarole, bean, and barley, 44 steak:
whole fish baked in, 101 homemade meat broth, 45 flank, grilled, 148
sardines, bucatini with mini meatballs i n broth, T-bone, Florentine style,
broccoli and, Sicilian 58 H7
style, 76-77 porcini mushroom, 46-47 stew, beef, w i t h cannellini
sausage: rustic, with chickpeas and beans and sage, 152-53
beans and, 139-40 porcini, 55 stracotto di manzo alginepro,
bucatini with onions and, Savoy cabbage and sausage, 149
74 48 strawberry and rum layer
fusilli with leeks and, 72-73 tomato, 60 cake, 207
homemade pork, 49 "wedded," 56-57 striped bass fillet, grilled,
and Savoy cabbage soup, wild mushroom and potato, Adriatic style, 100
48 52-53 sweet-and-sour braised veal
Savoy cabbage: spaghetti: shanks, 132-33
pork loin braised with, alia carbonara w i t h
137-38 zucchini, 68-69 T
and sausage soup, 48 thin, with eggplant, tagliata, la, 148
scallions, Italian open-faced fresh tomatoes, and tart, Sicilian orange, 200-201
omelet with, 41 mozzarella, 66-67 T-bone steak, Florentine
sea bass, thinly sliced, mari- with tomatoes and style, 147
nated i n lemon, 40 anchovies, 6$ techniques, 24-32
semifreddo al caff6, 212-13 w i t h tomatoes and onions, teglia muldcolore, 180-81
semifreddo di amaretti, 211 64 tiramisu, 208-9

254 EVERY NIGHT ITALIAN


tomato(es): tomato sauce, simple, savory vinegar and lemon sauce,
basil, and bread salad, three-meat loaf with, lamb chops grilled with,
193 154-55 141
canned, 20 tonno fresco al Marsala e
cauliflower gratin with funghi, 98-99 w
fresh sheep's milk cheese tonno fresco e rucola, 34 "wedded" soup, 56-57
and, 176-77 torta di mele, 198-99 white wine, glazed peaches in,
chicken braised w i t h black torta di spinaci, 179 214
olives and, 124-25 tuna: wild mushroom and potato
crostini with arugula and, fresh, arugula and tomato, soup, 52-53
35 34 wines, 23
fresh tuna, arugula and, 34 and Italian rice salad, beef tenderloin braised in
green beans, yellow 192 three,146
peppers, and tuna in a steaks, fresh, with Marsala see also red wine; white wine
mustard dressing, 194-95 and mushrooms, 98-99
lamb shoulder braised with, tomatoes, green beans and z
H3 yellow peppers in a mus- zucchine alia menta, 163
mozzarella and basil salad, tard dressing, 194-95 zucchine al pomodoro e
i87 turkey breast fillets with cipolle, 164
plum, peeling of, 24 lemon and olive, 126 zucchine della Signora Torti,
potatoes stewed w i t h Tuscan beans w i t h tomatoes le, 165
onions and, 168 and rosemary, 173 zucchine ripiene, 166 -67
soup, 60 Tuscan vegetable soup, zucchini:
spaghetti with anchovies classic, 50-51 M r s . Torti's, 165
and, 65 sauteed with fresh mint,
spaghetti with onions and, u 163
64 un-risotto, the, 88 sauteed with onions and
Tuscan beans with rose- tomatoes, 164
mary and, 173 V spaghetti alia carbonara
zucchini sauteed with veal: with, 68-69
onions and, 164 chops, sage-scented grilled, stuffed with ground beef
tomatoes, fresh: 127 and mozzarella, 166-67
clam soup with, 61 pan-roasted, stuffed with zuppa campagnola, 55
devil's shrimp with brandy spinach, 130-31 zuppa con funghi e pat ate,
and, 104 shanks, sweet-and-sour 52-53
green beans with ham and, braised, 132-33 zuppa di fagioli e scarola,
172 stew with green and yellow 44
orecchiette with basil, peppers, 128-29 zuppa di pomodoro, 60
ricotta salata and, 75 vegetable(s), 159-81 zuppa di verza e salsiccia,
red snapper with black casserole, tricolor, 180-81 48
olives and, 93 oven-roasted, 178 zuppa di vongole, 61
thin spaghetti with egg- soup, classic Tuscan, 50-51
plant, mozzarella and, see also specific vegetables
66-67 verdure al forno, 178

INDEX 2
55
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Dataa


Hazan, Giuliano.
Every night Italian : 120 simple, delicious recipes you can prepare
in 45 minutes or less / Giuliano Hazan.
p. cm.
Includes index.
1. Cookery, Italian. 2. Quick and easy cookery. I. Title.
TX723 .H334 2000
64i.5945-dc2i 99~37394
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