THE FASHION MAGAZINE FOR PEOPLE WHO SEW!

CONSTRUCTION
ELEMENTS –
Needles &
Threads WHAT’S NEW IN

Lace
Inside this
issue
t

"-5&3*/(
453&5$)&%

/&$,-*/& Step-by-Step Photos
‡*/
4&".
10$,&54
t

"%+645*/(
5)&

AND
$0/5063&%
8"*45-*/& Illustrations!

FULL OF TIPS, TECHNIQUES, ADVICE AND IDEAS

 0HDVXUH

'HVLJQ

3ULQW

6HZ

)LQG \RXU VW\OH DW ZLOGJLQJHUFRP OO\

WKDW

)LQD &ORWKLQJ ILWV

(QWHU 3URPR &RGH $867
IRU  RII IXOO YHUVLRQV RI &DPHR DQG 3DWWHUQ0DVWHU
DOOVRIWZDUHDYDLODEOHIRULPPHGLDWHGRZQORDGQRWKLQJWRVKLS
 ERNAZIONALE ALTA MODA
HAVE YOU ALWAYS WANTED
TO LEARN TO SEW?
DO YOU SEW AND WANT TO
LEARN TO MAKE YOUR OWN
PATTERN?
CIAM Patternmaking is you answer. We
teach the Guarino method, developed in
Rome andnow Europe’s premier method of
patternmaking. Using his method, your sewing
will have no limitations.
Learn How to Make Your Own Patterns
CIAM Patternmaking gives you the skill to be
able to create your own professional garmet
and will teach you to build your sewing skills.
The staff at Ciam will help you to learn to
create patterns that will fit you.
Short-Course
Pattern-drafting
For the first time, CIAM Australia is
offering short courses in pattern-drafting. You
will use the CIAM method to construct a pattern
block to your measurements and will then learn
to manipulate it to form basic wearable styles.
Different courses will be available for bodices,
skirts etc.
These short courses would be ideal for people
without the time to study the full CIAM
course or for HSC stud
to draft their own patte
major work (extra class
available to enable HSC
adapt their pattern for m
complex styles).

Example of projects
you can make
k :
= Skirts E
= Trousers ENQUIR R
= Jacket
k s NOW FO S
= Blouse CLAeSdSspEots
= Top/T Shirt Limit le
availab
= Little Black Dress
= And much morem e….

Classes available in 1 $%') 1 )''#$0& 1 Tahmoor

1
')&*0 1  +*.'' 1 ',$,)& 1 &))

CIAM Patternmaking
2/437 Burwood Road Belmore NSW 2192
Phone: (02) 9759 5904 Email: CIAMaustralia@msn.com

CIAMaustralia.com
 CONTENTS – Vol 26 No 2

Regular Features 29 Latest Patterns – New Look

30 Latest Fabric Trends
32 Behind the couture seams By Martin & Savage Fabrics
62 Book Reviews 37 Latest Patterns – Vougue
60 Final Word 42 Latest Fabric Trends By Sckafs
66 Next Issue 49 Latest Patterns – McCalls
55 Latest Patterns – Burda
Trends
Wear What When
10 Latest Fabric Trends 7 Private Indulgances
By Knitwit By Eddi Frantz
16 Latest Patterns – Butterick
19 Latest Patterns – Simplicity 44 The Multi taskers
By Eddi Franz

10 32

6
 Fabric Fact File
50 What’s New in the World of Lace?
By Kerryn Swan
Get The Look
Tailoring Secrets
 Private Indulgences
34 Waistband Contouring
By Eddi Frantz
Compiled by Lynn Cook
57 In-seam Pockets
Technically Speaking
By Alison Wheeler
24 Construction Elements –
Needles & Threads
Creative Ideas
By Alison Wheeler 21 The Oriental Panel
38 Stretched Out of Shape By Vicki Taggart
By Judith Turner

43 50
 7KHVWRUHWKDWLQVSLUHV\RXWRVHZ
The latest in high fashion daywear, exclusive formal & bridal fabrics
9LVLWRXU3HUWKRU%DOFDWWDVWRUHVWRH[SHULHQFHIRU\RXUVHOIRXURXWVWDQGLQJO\EHDXWLIXOUDQJHRIH[TXLVLWH
ODFHVH[FOXVLYHIDEULFVDQG6ZDURYVNLFU\VWDOWULPV&KRRVHIURPRQO\WKH¿QHVWODFHVIRU\RXUVSHFLDOGD\
PARKING
TRAIN CITY BALCATTA
STATION WALK WAY

Reid
Wellington St Highw
ay
FORREST CHASE

Er
ind
WALK WAY

Bunnings
ale
TRAIN STATION

MY
WILLIAM ST

Rd

Balcatta
Mitchell Freeway

ER CITY ta Rd
LEVEL ONE
WALK WAY
PERTH We are here
Upper level 200 Murray St BALCATTA
WALK WAY

Murray St Mall 33-34 Forrest Chase Unit 1 / 160 Balcatta Rd

(next door to Myer) Balcatta
DAVID JONES
Tel 9325 4992 Tel 9240 1453
76205

www.fabulousfabrics.com.au
 Get The Look
By Eddi Frantz

Butterick B5963 wrap-and-

tie robe and nightgown
with lace yoke at back.
Pattern also includes top
variations, pyjama pants
and a drawstring pouch.
Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22.

here is p
le
night, fo nty of fashion
r work, out ther
those pr for ef
ivate mo play … but wh or day, for
front do ments w at
or behin hen you about for
increasin Of cours d you an ’ve close
g e, d dt
all the h ly precious) tim we’re talking a are ready to rela he
as e bo x
… outsid sles of the outs you take for yo ut that special ?
e! So, it ide wor urself at (and
momen stands t ld are le home, w
ts, or ft w he
about ca in or out of be eason that wha here they belo re
pital ‘F’ d, shou t y ou wea n g
colour, fa ld
the ‘late shion, or gettin be just as hass r in those
it isn’t a st’ g le-
bout an silhouette or a into a tizzy abo free. This isn’t
we’ll ge y th n u t
t to that ing ‘on-trend’ ‘on-trend’ acce the ‘right’
have to overleaf at all (w ssory. In
slo ). B ell, fac
preciou p around in old ut, that also do maybe a little … t,
s time fo e
DQGZK r yourse sweats. In fact n’t mean that but
s
HQ lf c ,w you
this sea LWFRPHVWRZK alls for more th e believe that s
so DW an uc
dark cho n, there are qu ȇVRQR΍HUIURP a few indulge h
colate, r it e W n c
ed wine a few ways to KHSDWWHUQFRP es …
and gre indulge SDQLHV
at book along w
… ith that

FROM
... FRANKLY FEMININE
7
Get The Look

Sleepwear comes in many guises,

from seductive little whispers of lace,
silks, jerseys or satins, as in the robe
and nightgown on the preceding page
see more ultra-feminine lingerie looks ,
to clean-cut, comfortable shapes borrowed from his
pyjamas. This season, they just want to have fun in

crisp, bright colours, novelty graphics or even in a happy

mix of plaids, stripes and spots, all in striking black and
white. That’s where the ‘trend’ bit comes in – with shapes
as clean, classic and consistent as these, one can keep them
from getting stale with a change of vibrant colour or print!
… Why not even create your very own wardrobe of tops
and bottoms to mix-or-match at whim? More at-home
looks.

…TO JUST P
 Private
Indulgences

/WR5+HURQHVLHȂ.ZLNȏ6HZ.YLHZ%XQEXWWRQHGRYHU
7VKLUWȂ.ZLNȏ6HZ.+LVOLQHGUREHDQGS\MDPDSDQWV
Ȃ9RJXH9DQG9QHFN7VKLUWȂ1HZ/RRN+HUVKRUW
sleeved pyjama top – McCall’s M6659 view C..
2SSRVLWH SDJH $OO S\MDPD VW\OHV Ȃ 6LPSOLFLW\ 

P LAIN FUN! 9
Latest Fabric Trends

’re in Print! #Z
8FOEZ
(BHFS
GPS
,OJUXJU

Nothing beats a print in black and white and these little
gemsarenoexception.Allthreefabricsaresoeasytosew
and care for. Get in quick before they run out the door!

1. Lace Hearts printed knit – polyester/spandex blend, colour:

Black/Cream, 145cm wide with a 70cm pattern repeat, $19.95m

Pattern: ,XJLt4FX

$PNFT
BT
B
ESFTT
BOE
UPQ
XJUI
EJGGFSFOU

sleeve lengths and either V-neck or high, drape-neck collar.
This version has been made to pattern but with a three-quarter-
length sleeve.
10
 2 2. Modena printed knit – viscose/
spandex blend, colour: Black/Light
(SFZ
DN
XJEF
N

Pattern: #VSEB

'JUUFE
SBHMBO

TMFFWF
UPQ
XJUI
GPVS
EJGGFSFOU

neckline options. View C used here.

3. Forest printed knit, polyester/

spandex blend, colour: Black/Cream,
145cm wide with a 70cm pattern
repeat, $19.95m.

Pattern:
,XJLt4FX

/P

alterations made to this pattern.

Fabrics and patterns are from Knitwit

Contact: Wendy Gager,
Shop 4/142 Stirling Highway, Nedlands, WA 6009.
Phone: (08) 9389 1222
Local call cost outside Perth: 1300 852 122
Email: wendygager@knitwit.com.au
Website: www.knitwit.com.au
Perfect Fit

Waistband
Contouring
Compiled by Lynn Cook

As with any fashion, the shape, height and

detail of a garment waistline fluctuates with
time. A current fashion trend is for the waistline
to be moulded to the high hip. Regardless of
the fashion mood, this contoured waistband
requires careful attention to fit and easing. It is
also important to select appropriate fabrics and
Styling
It is interesting to note that most contoured d waistbands
i b d
are combined with a skirt that has fullness in the
design. The moulded waist combined with h garment
volume can create imbalance on many igu ures. The
best choice for the average igure is a desiggn that is
streamlined, using fabrics that drape in sofft folds.
Vogue 9007, all views, would work well fo or many
mbined
as it has soft, undulating folds of fabric com
with a contoured waistband. This is a streaamlined
silhouette, which can work well for the sho orter,
heavier igure when the colour combinatio on is
continuous and muted. See photos 1 and 2. 2

Caution is required when a contoured

waist ends in volumes of fabric or where thhe
contoured panel is of contrasting fabric or
colour. Both of these concepts will shortenn the
igure, making the garment unsuitable for a
short, thick torso. See photos 3, 4 and 5.
1. Vogue
V9007 When all other factors are perfect, a
view B
contoured waistline will suit an individual
with a short upper torso. It is important thaat
this guideline be followed with continuity oof
colour and fabric drape. As the saying goes
– buyer beware! See photos 6a and 6b.

Fit and the contoured waistline

Fit ideas regarding a contoured waistband
should not be confused with the it of a traaditional
2. Vogue
waistband. More frequently, these design feeatures V9007 view
C
12
 do not sit on the waist so wearing ease
properties for the waist is not appropriate.
To determine correct w wearing ease
uidelines, you will need to know
exactly where on th he body the
contouured detail sits.
Thiis can be done
by the ‘tissue it’
metthod or by
checking thee pattern tissue
itself for it guidelines. The
pattern often indicates how far
below or above the n natural waistline
the design is intendeed to it. If this
information is avaiilable, check the
measurement agaiinst your body
and note whetherr the design its at
the tummy, the h high hip, or the
midriff (rib cagge). Also decide if
you are going to t wear a garment
inside the contooured waistline
or outside. This w will inluence the
amount of ease required. Your
personal comforrt zone is also an
important conssideration here.
As a guidelline, consider the
following easing requirements
when check king the it of
ur pattern: waistline
r i tly below waist:
– m (3¼ – 1/8in)
3. Vogue
V8908 view high hipline: 3 –
ease; h
C 5cm ((11/8 – 2in) ease;
4. McCall’s
M6799
view B
b cage): 3 – 5cm (11/8
midriff (rib
– 2in) easse. The upper end of
the ease requirements should
be usedd if you are wearing
ment tucked within
a garm
the coontoured waist or if
your body circumference
lucttuates daily. Regardless
of tthese guidelines, we
highly recommend
a toile itting before
cutting fashion fabric.
Pattern
5. Butterick
alteraations
B4686 mference
Circum
The moost common
adjustmment for the
contoured waistline
is circumference.
Thee width of the
bannd can be
djusted easily
ad
by using the
b
‘box and slide’
technique.
Before
you begin, check your body proportion
to determine if a balanced alteration
is required. For example, if you havee
a ‘spare tyre’ (fullness evenly around
the high hip) the adjustment should be
balanced front and back. If you havee a full
tummy with only slight fullness on the
high hip, you should add more fulln ness
to the front and less to the back. Forr
ine adjustments, simply add the req quired
amount to the side seam. A maximum m
alteration of 1cm (3/8in) can be addedd to the
side seam. See diagrams 1 and 2.
Contour depth
The depth of the contoured waistlinee
may need to be adjusted for your
body proportion. If you have a
short hip depth, then you will
need to reduce the width of the
contour panel or lengthen it if you
have a long hip depth. Folding out oro slashing
and then spreading the tissue the reqquired depth,
easily does this adjustment. Please ind a location
within the contour panel that can bee adjusted
without distorting the overall shape. If a large
adjustment is required, the alteration
n should be
balanced over more than one adjustm ment point.
See diagrams 3 and 4. 6a. McCall’s
M5431 view
A
13
Perfect Fit
Uneven hipline
An uneven hiplline can be a bit of a Construction ideas
bother in a con ntoured waistline. On We have recommended this style for many igure types
one hand if you alter the pattern, you when made from a soft draping fabric like wool crepe;
then have an uneven
u contoured panel, however this fabric choice may not be the most suitable
which can bee disturbing to the eye. for the structured look of a contoured panel. To improve
On the oth her hand if you do not the inished appearance of this style when using soft fabric,
alter for th his igure variation, the we recommend a well interfaced or fused cloth. This will
garment will w be ill-itting and less give body and support to a style that requires a crisp inish.
lattering. Our general belief is It is also important that the upper edge of the contour be
that it is best to avoid this type of stabilised further. To do this we suggest the use of cotton twill
fashion if i you have an obvious tape stretched slightly and then stitched within the seamline.
imbalan nce at the hipline. If you The stretching of the twill tape will act as easing for the upper
have a slight variation (1cm edge, allowing it to cup closer to the igure, giving a more
[3/8in] or less), a small alteration professional inish. The tape will also prevent the upper edge
to thee pattern will improve from stretching during wear. See diagram 8.
it an nd be less noticeable. To
Diagram 1 – large circumference alteration
adju ust for an uneven hipline,
you u will need to trace off a
rigght and left side to each
paattern piece. You can alter
thhe pattern for the lower
h
hip by slashing into the
h
high hip of the contoured
band, sliding out the
required amount and
tapering to zero at the
centre front and back.
Make sure you slide
the top piece down
oveer the lower panel to avoid
disttortion of the grainline.
See diagram 5.

Sw
wayback
Th he swayback adjustment
iss another asymmetrical
6a. McCall’s
M5431 view allteration that can distort Diagram 2 – small or uneven circumference
A the appearance of a alteration
contoured band. However,
because this adjustment is completed at the centre back, it
is less likely to cause a visual imbalance. To carry out this
adjustment, determine where the waistline is on the pattern.
Slash into the pattern waistline at the centre-back point, and
then slide out the required amount, moving the upper tissue
down over the lower pattern. This alteration tapers to zero
at the side seam. Please note: if you are making a hipster
garment, you will not need to complete this adjustment. See
diagram 6.

Hollow back
A hollow back can also create a poor it within a contoured
waistline. This can be adjusted for by darting out small
amounts of fullness within the back contoured panel. It is
important to remove small amounts gradually over the back
panel so as to avoid severe distortion of the original shape.
See diagram 7.

14
Diagram 3 – Reducing the contour depth Diagram 4 – Increasing the contour depth

Diagram 5 – Uneven hipline alteration

Diagram 6 – Swayback alteration Diagram 7 –

Hollow back
alteration

Diagram 8 – Adding
cotton tape to the
waist seam

15
 F
Latest Pattern Trends
By Eddi Frantz – Butterick
Travelling

I
R
S
B5994

www.butterick.com
16
T Class
 B5961
,WHPV WKDW Á\ DERYH DQG EH\RQG DQ\ WUHQG WR GHOLYHU UHDO SROLVK
SUHVHQFHDQGYHUVDWLOLW\²GD\WRGD\FLW\WRFLW\VHDVRQWRVHDVRQ
\HDUWR\HDU«
A JACKET THAT’S READY TO GO
ANWHERE B5994: )LWWHGXQOLQHG
MDFNHWKDVIURQWH[WHQGLQJLQWRFROODU
SULQFHVVVHDPVVLGHIURQWSRFNHWV
VWLWFKHGKHPVFRQFHDOHGIURQW]LSSHU
WZRSLHFHVOHHYHVDQGVHOIPDGHWRJJOHV
ZLWKGHFRUDWLYHEXWWRQFORVXUH$OVRZLWK
FRQWUDVWFROODUYDULDWLRQ'HVLJQHGIRU
PHGLXPWRKHDY\ZHLJKWVWUHWFKZRYHQV

$OOVW\OHVWKHVHSDJHV0LVVHVȇVL]HVȂ

B5986

B5994

A DRESS WITH MODERN MOBILITY B5961

B5986: 9HU\ORRVHȴWWLQJSXOORYHUGUHVV
KDVULJKWDQGOHIWH[WHQGLQJLQWRFROODUDQG
GUDSHWDFNHGDWKHPOLQHQRVLGHVHDPV
DQGSDUWLDOO\HODVWLFLVHGKHPOLQH5LJKW
DQGOHIWVLGHVDUHFXWRQFURVVZLVHJUDLQ
$OVRLQVOHHYHOHVVYHUVLRQ'HVLJQHGIRU
OLJKWZHLJKWWZRZD\VWUHWFKNQLWVRQO\

TOPS & PANTS THAT FLY HIGH IN

ANY SITUATION B5961: Very loose-
ȴWWLQJSXOORYHUWRSKDVFROODUOHQJWK
YDULDWLRQVDQGVKDSHGDUPKROHV)LWWHG
WDSHUHGSDQWVKDYHFX΍YDULDWLRQVLGH
IURQWDQGVLGHEDFNVHDPVWRSVWLWFKLQJ
DQGEDFN]LSSHU7RSVLQGRXEOHNQLWV
RUMHUVH\V3DQWVLQGRXEOHNQLWVVWUHWFK
GHQLPVRUVWUHWFKSRSOLQV
 YOUR ONE STOP FABRIC SHOP!
For all your sewing, knitting, millinery, haberdashery,
and fabric craft needs.
Specialists in bridal, evening wear and fashion fabrics
Stockists of Vogue, Burda, New Look, Butterick,
McCalls and Simplicity Patterns
Come in to see our great range of yarns, including
Rowan, Naturally, Filatura Di Crosa, Katia, Patons,
Panda, and many more!
Plus our beautiful new range of winter fabrics are
in store now.
Open 7 Days a week at our City store and 6 days a
week on Lygon Street.

Phone: (03) 9654 7677 - 60 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne

Phone: (03) 9388 0700 - 396 Lygon Street, Brunswick East
ST22-08_08

E: clegs@clegs.com.au Facebook.com/ClegsFabrics
 Latest Pattern Trends
By Eddi Frantz – Simplicity

SEWSTYLISH 1542: Jacket

with buttoned-back tab, in
three versions with front
and collar variations, and
skirt gathered on waistband.
Misses’ sizes: 4 – 20.

Sleek, feminine styling that easily

crosses over from chic to casual …
rich, spicy shades that are neither too
dark nor too bright … the distinctive
ÀQLVKRI PLOLWDU\LVVXHEXWWRQVRU
GHQLPUXIÁHV«LI \RXWKLQNWKDW
jackets just mean boring old blazers
RUPDQWDLORUHGFORQHV

THIN
AGAIN
www.simplicity.com 19
 Creative Ideas

Oriental
The
Panel
By Vicki Taggart

The Australian Sewing Guild Industry Day at Brisbane

Northside – with plenty to see and do - was one not to miss!
We enjoyed talks and demonstrations from Kerryn’s Fabric
World, Kazuyo’s Japanese Fabrics, Genesis paints, Janome
and costume maker, Gayle McGregor. Stalls at the event
provided shopping opportunities for between talks.

At Kazuyo’s stall, I fell for a length of brightly printed fabric

from an unpicked kimono. It was about 2.5m long and mostly
36cm wide. Black was the best choice to coordinate with such
a strong design. Once home and fabrics both washed, I draped
it on Dolly my dressmaker’s dummy, and played with various
style ideas. Would it be used for sleeves, yoke panels in a skirt,
jacket, or top, or a centre panel in a dress?

With a little research in fashion magazines and style

websites, an idea dawned that I was happy with – a tunic
dress to be worn on its own or over slim-it pants.

THE DRESS PATTERN

The best visual width for the bodice panel is slightly wider
than the bust separation measurement. Using a top pattern
as a guide (this garment uses Butterick 4811 cut with the
centre front on the fold), draw this line on the pattern from
the shoulder to the waist. Change the neckline, if necessary,
to sit at least 2cm (¾in) inside the panel at the shoulder
seam. Shorten the bodice to inish about 2cm (½in) above the
natural waist, keeping the waist join wide enough to go over
the head without a zipper. This bodice length is 41cm (16in)
from the shoulder at the neckline.

Do the same for the back bodice pattern. Add seam

allowances where necessary.

If the top pattern has a collar, you may need to create a

front and back neck facing.

Shorten the sleeve to 20cm (8in).

The skirt panel width is 33cm (12¾in) which will use the
full 36cm (14in) when the seam allowances are included.
Decide on the length then add 1.5cm (5/8in) at the waist join
and 3cm (1¼in) for the hem.

No side seams are required in the skirt. It should be loose

but not billowing, so measure your hips and add about 4cm
(1½in) extra. Subtract the back and front panel widths and
allow for the seam allowances. Divide by 2 to get the width of
Creative Ideas
each side skirt (extra width can be cut off after itting). Take
Diagram 1
4cm (1½in) off at waist seams and taper to hem. Add seam
allowances and 3cm (1¼in) for the hem. See diagram 1.

CUTTING
2cm (½in)
The front bodice panel was ‘fussy-cut’ to get the best part of
the print within the panel width. The front and back skirt
panels were cut from the widest part of the fabric, and the
back bodice was cut last, keeping in mind I may be able to
use the left-over print. The black fabric is cut on grain.

SEWING
Sew the panels to the bodice and skirt pieces. Join the front
and back bodices at the shoulders and sides, then insert
the sleeves. Pin the skirt to the bodice with small pleats
Straighten (more lattering than gathering) pointing to the side seams,
the side
seams matching the panel joins and side-seam markings.

Try on the garment. This is the time for any adjustments

– sleeve and hem lengths, neckline and slight waist shaping.
Waistline Make any necessary adjustments.

Overlock the hem edges and seams. Stitch the bodice to the
skirt, overlock the seam and press.

The neckline needed deinition and black piping was

perfect. The skirt looked rather full at the lower edge, but the
20mm wide elastic inserted in the hem pulled it in but still
gave room to move.

FINISHING THE TUNIC

As there was no Oriental print left to make the neck facing,
and black would show through, I used a lime green fabric.
It was also used for the two reversible, removable tabs that
Maximum Side front Side back
width of 33cm buttoned on at the waist seam. The tabs pull the waist in
(12¾in) slightly, but can be left off with just the buttons featuring.

LEFT-OVER FABRIC
With a small piece of kimono fabric left, I needed to work out
what else to make. There was enough for a front yoke for a
long top in the remaining black fabric. See photo on page 41.
Centre panel Side skirt
Cut 2 print panel
Cut 2 6TJOH
,XJLt4FX

BT
B
CBTF
PS
BOZ
PUIFS
TJNQMF
UPQ

pattern, lengthen the pattern to hip level on the left side,
and mid-thigh level on the right, forming an asymmetrical
hemline. Both sides have splits for movement. The front yoke
is cut to a level approximately 2/3 of the armhole curve. Add
seam allowances to the lower edge of the yoke and the upper
edge of the front pattern.

After seeing the irst itting (seams only), it needed more

colour. The last scraps were sewn together to make the angled
pocket to follow the hemline. Black satin bias gave deinition
to the neckline and sleeves.

Hip measurement minus panel Keep an eye out for unusual fabrics. Drape it on yourself,
widths, divided by 2, plus 4cm look at it, research and wait for the creativity to kick in!
(1½in) each side.

22
23
Technically Speaking

Construction Elements –
Needles & Threads By Alison Wheeler
This series of articles focuses on various
1
areas of garment construction and offers
different methods to achieve success and a
garment to be proud of.

With every element of sewing there are

lots of options, with choices to be made
about fabrics, notions and techniques. This
certainly applies to needles and threads.

Things you may not know about needles

and threads
Selecting the most suitable thread for a project is not just
about the best colour match. Threads vary in composition
and thickness and using a thread that is not compatible
with the fabric; too weak or too thick can spoil the inished
result, as the thread will not do its job of holding the garment
together while remaining an invisible part of the construction.

There will be times when thread is used in a decorative

context but for the main construction, the thread’s
smoothness, strength and ability to blend and meld into the
fabric are the most important requirements.
2
Types of thread
Most threads intended for general construction are either
polyester or a polyester-wrapped cotton thread. They are
usually very strong and suit the majority of fabrics.

The main thing to consider is the thickness of the thread.

It is interesting to compare threads as they can vary widely in
thickness. See photo 1.

If you are sewing a ine, lightweight fabric it is best to use

a iner thread. Thicker threads are more suitable for heavier
fabrics.

Threads are identiied by numbers indicating thickness

– #100 very ine, #50 ine, #40 medium, #30 thick. Most
common machine sewing thread is #40. See photo 2.

Silk thread comes in a variety of thicknesses from #100

which is wonderful for hand-sewing hems – it is so ine that
hemstitching is not visible from the right side of a garment

24
(provided of course that a very small stitch and ine needle
3
are used!). #50 weight silk thread blends into the fabric
beautifully with machine sewing. See photo 3.
Decorative and specialty threads are available for speciic
purposes – ine rayon machine embroidery thread, topstitching
thread, ine cotton heirloom thread, #50 quilting cotton.

Tips for Usage

t
"MXBZT
VTF
B
HPPE
RVBMJUZ
UISFBE
t
5IF
UISFBE
DPMPVS
MPPLT
EBSLFS
PO
B
SFFM
UIBO
XIFO
JU
JT

unwound so choosing a slightly darker thread to match the
project will give a better match.
t
*G
ZPV
BSF
VOBCMF
UP
NBUDI
B
DPMPVS
JO
UPQTUJUDIJOH
UISFBE

use two regular threads through one needle to add the
required thickness. These threads can be blending colours
for multi-coloured garments.
t
6TF
åOF
UISFBE
GPS
CVUUPOIPMFT
o
IFJSMPPN
PS

DPUUPO

work well for machine buttonholes; use silk buttonhole
thread if making hand-worked buttonholes.
t
6TF
UPQTUJUDIJOH
UISFBE
UP
TFX
IJHIVTF
CVUUPOT
JO
QMBDF

e.g. coat or jacket buttons. 4
t
.PTU
HFOFSBM
QVSQPTF
UISFBET
BSF
DSPTT
XPVOE
BOE
XPSL

well with horizontal feed. Some specialty threads are not
cross wound and will work better with vertical feed. If your
machine does not have provision for two spools feeding in
the same direction, there are separate thread guides available
for a reasonable cost – these can be a great sanity saver when
using twin needles or two threads in one needle.
t
*G
ZPV
IBWF
EJGåDVMUZ
UISFBEJOH
B
NBDIJOF
OFFEMF
QMBDF
B

small piece of white paper directly behind the needle and
the hole will be more visible.
t
$VUUJOH
UISFBE
PO
BO
BOHMF
BMTP
IFMQT
XJUI
FBTJFS
UISFBEJOH
t
*G
CPCCJOT
BSF
XPVOE
BU
IJHI
TQFFE
UIFSF
DBO
CF
QSPCMFNT

with the thread stretching as it is wound on to the bobbin,
resulting in puckered stitches – slow down to around three-
quarter speed for the best results.
t
.BLF
TVSF
UIF
UISFBE
JT
TFDVSFMZ
JO
UIF
CPCCJO
UFOTJPO
BT
ZPV

are winding a bobbin – it should be loose between the thread
reel and the tension mechanism and taut from the tension
mechanism to the bobbin. If you end up with a ‘squishy’
bobbin, failure to do this is the most likely cause. Bobbins 5
can be rewound to a new bobbin.
t
"MXBZT
NBLF
TVSF
UIF
UISFBE
UZQF
CFJOH
VTFE
JO
UIF
OFFEMF

is exactly the same as the thread wound on to the bobbin.
Different colours can be used but, for perfect stitching, the
thread brand and weight needs to be the same – unless of
course you are doing decorative techniques.
t
1SFTT
TFBNT
ýBU
BT
TFXO
UP
CMFOE
UIF
UISFBE
JOUP
UIF
GBCSJD

Hand-stitching
Twisting thread is one of the most common problems
encountered when hand-stitching.

To eliminate twisting:
t
$VU
UISFBE
PO
BO
BOHMF
t
8IFO
VTJOH
UISFBE
GSPN
B
SFFM
UISFBE
UIF
FOE
UISPVHI
UIF

eye of the needle and cut off the required length.
t
8IFO
VTJOH
UISFBE
GSPN
B
CPCCJO
DVU
UIF
SFRVJSFE
MFOHUI

25
Technically Speaking
6 7
and thread the cut end through the
eye of the needle.
t
$POTJEFS
UISFBEJOH
UIF
OFFEMF

and then ironing the thread before
stitching.
t
6TF
B
TJOHMF
UISFBE
GPS
BMM
IBOE
stitching except when attaching
fastenings (e.g. hooks and eyes, press
studs, etc.).
t
,FFQ
UISFBE
MFOHUI
UP
BQQSPYJNBUFMZ

50cm (19½in).
t
*G
UIFSF
JT
B
MPU
PG
IBOETUJUDIJOH

at approximately 6-8 hours of actual
prepare several threaded needles
before starting.
t
5P
JODSFBTF
UISFBE
TUSFOHUI
GPS

permanent stitches only, wax the
thread – thread the needle and run
the thread through beeswax; place
between two sheets of paper towel
and iron while pulling the thread
through – this melts the wax and
embeds it into the thread.
Needles
Machine needles are identiied by type on
the package by both their type name and
a type number which is common to all
brands. See photo 4. The needle size is also
marked on the package.

see photo 5, t
-POH
OFFEMFT
BSF
CFTU
GPS
CBTUJOH
With machine needles, the smaller the
number, the iner the needle. Schmetz
are now colour-coding their machine
needles which makes it easy to identify
what you have been using. They provide
an excellent free download of their
needle guide on their website http://
www.schmetzneedles.com/learning/pdf/
26
schmetz-needle-chart.pdf . Schmetz
BMTP
IBWF
BO
BQQ
GPS
J1BETJ1IPOFT

which would make needle choice when
shopping for notions very convenient.
Tips for machine needles
t
.PTU
NBDIJOF
OFFEMF
UISFBEFST
XJMM

not accommodate a needle smaller
than Size 75. If using a iner needle, it
needs to be threaded by hand.
t
/FFEMFT
TIPVME
CF
DIBOHFE
SFHVMBSMZ

use. Be guided by your fabric as
polyester fabrics dull needles much
faster than natural ibre fabrics. If
your machine is making a louder
sound as you stitch, consider
changing the needle.
t
%JTQPTF
PG
CFOU
PS
CSPLFO
OFFEMFT

(and pins) in a sharps container
(readily available at chemists) and
when full place in the bin.
t
%P
OPU
TUPSF
OFFEMFT
JO
B
QJODVTIJPO

It is very easy for them to disappear
into the pin cushion and if the illing
is a type of ibre-ill, they can rust.
Emery powder or ine, dry sand is a
better iller.
t
6TF
BO
FNFSZ
TUSBXCFSSZ
if you think your needle may have a
burr which is most often caused by
hitting a pin. Do not sew over pins
and, if you do accidentally hit one, stop
and check the needle immediately. If
working with very ine fabric, change
to a new needle or you will risk pulling
threads in your fabric.
t
'PS
TUPSBHF
PG
OFFEMFT
XIJDI
IBWF

been used but are still useable, mark
needle types with a permanent
fabric marker on an inexpensive pin
cushion. See photo 6.
Hand needles
The sizing system for hand needles is
the opposite of that for machine needles
(why this was done I have no idea!). #3
is a large needle; #6-7 is medium and
#9-12 ine to very ine. See photo 7.
When selecting needle size, match the
size of the needle to the thickness of the
thread and type of fabric being sewn.
/FFEMFT
DPNF
JO
EJGGFSFOU
UZQFT
GPS

different techniques. Sharps are general
TFXJOH
OFFEMFT
$SFXFM
BSF
JOUFOEFE
GPS

embroidery; Milliner’s needles (formerly
straw needles) are used to make
bullions. Quilters/Betweens are used for
stitching in smaller spaces.
Tips for using hand needles
t
6TF
UIF
åOFTU
OFFEMFT
UIBU
XJMM
TVJU
UIF

thread and fabric and do the job – no
big holes and ine thread.
tacking and running stitches.
t
4IPSU
OFFEMFT
BSF
CFTU
GPS
GFMMTUJUDI

and slip-stitch.
t
4IBSQT
IBWF
B
TNBMM
FZF
TP
JG
ZPV

have a problem threading them, use
B
$SFXFM
OFFEMF
PG
UIF
TBNF
TJ[F
BT
JU

has a longer eye.
t
,FFQ
ZPVS
OFFEMFT
JO
B
OFFEMF
DBTF
PS

QJFDF
PG
XPPM
ýBOOFM
o
UIF
MBOPMJO
JO

 Latest Pattern Trends
By Eddi Frantz – New Look

UNISEX PANTS, ROBE AND KNIT

6234
TOPS 6233: Unisex loungewear includes
knit top in short or long sleeves, knit or
woven drawstring pants, and bathrobe
with pockets. Tops sized for stretch knits
only: cotton interlock or jerseys. Robe and
S\MDPD SDQWV LQ ȵDQQHOODXQGHUHGFRWWRQV
chambray, cotton and cotton blends. Robe
DOVR LQ VLONV RU VLON W\SHVȵHHFHYHORXU
Unisex sizes: XS – XL.

6233
TODDLERS' TOP, PANTS AND
ROBE 6234: Toddlers' top has short
sleeves and a chest pocket. Pants
have elastic waist for comfort and
ease. Hooded robe comes with two
convenient front pockets. For cotton
DQGFRWWRQEOHQGVȵDQQHOODXQGHUHG

S
cottons, calico, chambray, seersucker,

leeping
FRWWRQLQWHUORFN5REHDOVRLQȵHHFH
VZHDWVKLUWȵHHFHYHORXUQRWVXLWDEOH
for sleepwear). Use fabrics and
trims that meet government
ȵDPPDELOLW\VWDQGDUGV
Toddlers’ sizes: 1/2 – 4.

New Look patterns at

ZZZVLPSOLFLW\FRP
beauties
29
Latest Fabric Trends
– Martin & Savage Fabrics

ALL LACED UP!

This lace collection has taken its inspiration from
‘Downton Abbey’. So, imagine those beautiful
elegant silhouettes worn by Lady Mary … then
add all the glamour of exquisite fabrics and
you’ve got the feel for this fabric story.
It’s all about texture. Lace with corded ribbon
embroidery, satin stitch laces, appliquéd and
stitched laces and eyelet laces, all teamed back
with silk satins.
Colours go from old gold to cafe au lait, to ivory,
to blush.
Perfect for first, second and dare we say it –
third-time-round brides, for bridesmaids and for
mother and grandmother of the bride. Or, for
that very special occasion when you just want to
celebrate with perhaps a beautiful fabric jacket
teamed with a silk satin skirt or palazzo pant.
Available from the Martin & Savage Collection.

1. Full Bloom 34082, design: 0, 95% polyester/5% spandex,

colour: Nutmeg, 147/149cm wide.

2. Riviera 13312, design: 1693K, 100% polyester,

colour: Oyster, 125/130cm wide.
1 2 3 3. P/C Stretch Satin 33810, design: 0, 51% polyester/
46% cotton/3% spandex, colour: Deer, 144/147cm wide.
11
4. 16mm Silk Satin 22601, 98% polyester/2% spandex,
colour: A – Gold, B – Ivory, C – Flint, 122-126cm wide.
4C
5. Ibiza 34081, design: Plain, 93% polyester/7% spandex,
10 colour: Moet, 142/147cm wide.

4B 4A 6. Riviera 13312, design: 1693K, 100% polyester,

colour: Powder, 125/130cm wide.

9 5 7. Ibiza 34081, design: Plain, 93% polyester/7% spandex,

colour: Rose Gold, 142/147cm wide.

8. Toulouse 14011, design: E1331, 100% polyester,

colour: Ivory, 135/152cm wide.
8
9. Crave 13308, design: 1314504C 100% polyester,
colour: White, 125/127cm wide.
7 6 10. Marseille 14012, design: E1311, 100% polyester,
colour: Ivory, 135/152cm wide.

11. PU Leather N Lace 14034, design: 91001F,

100% polyester, colour: White, 125/130cm wide.

For stockist enquiries contact Martin & Savage

(02) 9698 5811

30
Behind the couture Seams 6mm

Width of collar 2cm

(¾in)
Back neck length Front neck length to
front band seam only.

Change the collar

shape, as per
diagram.
McCall’s M6531
Reduce the front band
view C length to neck edge.
Add a band to the left
side.

Add pockets and

pocket flaps to this
seam. Stitch the
pocket flap into the
seam and pocket bag
on the inside of the
jacket so only the
stitching shows the

Add a button at
the waist to stop Replace the patch
the front tab pockets with welt
gapping. pockets, using this
positioning point for
the welt.

Straighten the hemline

and eliminate hem
drawstring.

From Pattern 2
 Regular Feature

Mark this point approx.

2.5cm (1in) back from the
end of the collar. The collar
G O -
The
will be stitched to the
neckline to this point and
then left free at the ends.

In the world of jacket dressing, what separates

the best from the rest – the way a jacket
travels across time zones to look great almost
anywhere … the way it’s not too stitched or stiff,
but can add just the right amount of style and
polish to whatever you throw it over ... and if you

2 Runway Worthy sew, that’s easily solved!

Tailoring Secrets

Perfecting the
Sleeve-head Roll
Compiled by Lynn Cook

Nothing will give you the ‘home-made’ look quicker than a badly set-in sleeve. You
may have spent hours trying to get it right but you know something is still missing –
the secret ingredient is the sleeve-head roll – here we show you just how easy it is to
achieve.

1 2

3 4

34
T
his simple, easy-to-use method, gives you a
5
perfect sleeve-head every time. It smooths out
any easing tucks, even with a dificult-to-ease
fabric such as a taffeta. This method is best
suited for tailored jackets and lined garments in
general.

The hidden ingredient to this method is simple – wadding!

It ills and pads out any excess easing at the crown of the
sleeve, giving it a softer appearance.

Wadding can be purchased by the metre and comes in

various thicknesses. It is comprised of thin layers, which peel
away, making it easy to use. See photo 1.

You can determine for yourself what thickness of wadding

to insert, depending on fabric weight. A lighter weight fabric
only needs a thin layer of wadding, whereas heavier wool
fabric needs more to achieve the same result. Be careful when
cutting wadding not to dull or damage your scissors. A good
idea is to use an old pair. 6

First, cut the wadding insert approximately 20cm long x

2.5cm wide (8in long x 1in wide). Trim both ends to a point
and slightly grade back the thickness of the wadding at each
end. See photo 2.

To prepare the sleeve, ease the sleeve cap by stitching two

closely spaced rows of machine basting and then pull the
bobbin threads. Set-in the sleeve as the pattern instructs.
Trim back and/or overlock the seam allowance. Press the
seam allowance toward the sleeve.

Place the wadding roll insert to the wrong side of the sleeve
head (the inside of the garment), covering the armhole seam
allowance, and centre it either side of the shoulder position.
Pin in place. See photo 3.

Machine-stitch the insert in place, close to the armhole

stitching line.
Cover the shoulder pads and pin them in place. Position 7
the shoulder pad to extend past the shoulder line and into
the sleeve approximately 1cm – 1.5cm (3/8 – 5/8in). Hand-
stitch the shoulder pad in place along the armhole seam
allowance and shoulder line seam using a long backstitch.
See photo 4.

Finish and line the garment as the pattern instructs. Finally,

press the completed garment very carefully and stand back
and admire your work! See photo 5.

If you want to apply this method to an unlined garment,

simply encase the pre-cut wadding in a piece of bias-cut
organza. See photo 6. This way the wadding is not exposed
and will handle the cleaning process more satisfactorily.
Slightly ease in the rounded corners of the covered wadding
roll and apply to sleeve head/armhole seam allowance as
before. See photo 7.

35
 The Fabric Shop
More than just Beautiful Fabrics!
Prefer to make your own? That print and many like
the ones shown here are available from our store.

Beautiful jewel colours with lots of choice available,

including a number of other colour palettes!

Easy Care Jersey Dress

One of the Maelena Collection, Real Clothes for
Real People ready to wear garments, this is a super
comfortable dress made in a combination of plain
poly jersey and printed jersey quality fabrics.
Its ruched side panel helps camouflage problem spots
and flatters most figures. It is available in a number
of fabric combinations, in sizes 12 to 20, from the
Maelena Collection @ The Fabric Shop, Robina.
Smart Casual
A more casual look? Try our great fit Capri Pants or
casual tops & jackets. There’s lots of choice. Or you
could just buy the fabric! Check our website for ideas.

Contact us now and order your fabric

“Sample Pack”. Mail orders welcomed!

MA Follow us on Unit 3, 76 Robina Town Centre Drive,

IL Facebook Robina, QLD. Ph 61 7 55930016
WE OR
LC DE
ST22-11_08

OM RS
E
www.thefabricshoprobina.com.au
The prettiest, most seductive things are often hidden from
view. Soft, silky robes float over dreamy lace-kissed slips
or camisole sets for the loveliest looks under the covers …
or anywhere private.
Inside story
www.voguepatterns.com
Latest Pattern Trends
By Eddi Frantz – Vogue
V8888: Wrap-and-tie robe with length
and trim variations, two slip designs as
shown that can be shortened to camisole
length, and panties. For charmeuse, crepe
de chine or jerseys with trim in lace or
Point D'esprit. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 20.
37
Technically Speaking

Stretched
Out of Shape!
By Judith Turner
Disaster can strike at any time, as with takes it to the dry cleaner.
this dress, but alterations expert Judith,
Dry cleaner: Hangs the dress on
aka Genie, grants the wish of her client a hanger and stretches the shoulders
and fixes the problem! What was the and neckline completely out of shape.
problem, how did it happen and how did Disaster strikes!
Judith fix it? Read on … Client: Unaware of disaster until client
goes to wear the dress. This is what the
Client: Lent dress to friend dress looked like when client tried it on.
Friend: Thinks she doing the right thing See photo 1.
after borrowing her friends dress and

38
A
ltering a machine-knitted dress is almost the same as
2
altering a normal knit fabric, with a bit more care. My
client asked if I could ix it …

“Yes, however, rather than take the sleeves out completely, I may
be able to take it up at the shoulders and ease the sleeve back in.
This may mean a slight gathering. Would you mind if it was a little
gathered at the top as a worst case scenario?”

She said she would not mind. So this alteration is based

upon the above worst case scenario.

Note: I always try and give the worst outcome

because, when altering readymade garments,
the success of the alteration will always be
determined by the type of fabric/knit and the
style. Altering readymade is totally different
from altering a pattern. In readymade you are
limited by the garment construction and fabric
type. 3

The irst step was to pin the dress on her body. When
pinning the shoulder, always have the point of the pin facing
away from the neck. Take the excess fabric between thumb
and index inger and insert the pin. Repeat on the shoulder
at the top of the sleeve, sliding the pin so that the sharp tip
points towards the top of the sleeve. There will be times when
a pin is needed in the middle, however it was not in this case.
See photo 2.

Note: When a garment is too big, the solution

to the problem (in my opinion) can only be
determined by pinning it onto the client. I was
asked how to reduce the size of a blouse which
was too big in the back area and shoulders. My
reply was, “Without viewing the person in the
garment that is like saying – how long is a piece
of string?”. I can work off measurements but to 4
fit to the body is the best solution.
The alteration process has two factors:
1. Garment construction
2. Body shape

The two go hand-in-hand. This is why I came up with

my ‘Taking in Technique’ – it relies on pinning the garment
on the body, but where it is pinned will depend upon the
garment construction, as well as the person’s body shape.

The next step when altering the garment is to measure the

position of the pins in relation to the original seam.

Note: I never pin a garment inside out. Why?

Because my client would be seeing the seam
allowances sticking out and this would make
39
Technically Speaking

5 her look bigger than she is. Plus, I want to see

what it is going to look like from the right side –
not the wrong side.
Make a line drawing of the garment. If the client’s shoulders
are not the same height, I would label right and left shoulder
so as not to mix up measurements.

Record the inside neck measurement and the outside sleeve

measurement on the drawing. See photo 3.

Take the pins out and turn the garment inside out.

To ease the sleeve back in, I decided to unpick 10cm

(4in) either side of the shoulder seam. Measure the amount
to unpick down each side, and place a dot. Repeat on the
second armhole.

A knit garment is generally joined with a chain stitch.

Gently pull the seams apart, then slip the unpicker in to cut
6 ONE stitch only. This will release a few more at the same
time, allowing you to ind the loose thread on one side
and lick the chain stitch so it unravels. Before completely
releasing the chain stitch, cut the thread on the opposite side
of the armhole, to prevent it from completely unravelling the
sleeve seam. Repeat on second sleeve. See photo 4.

I always sew with the front panel on top. This means on

one side start from the sleeve edge working towards the neck
line, and on the opposite side start from the neck edge to the
sleeve. This is to ensure the neck edge sits lush. The ribbed
section around the neck edge MUST BE matched so that
the alteration is dificult to notice from the right side. If the
ribbing is uneven the alteration will be visible.

Measure from the original seam on the shoulder down to

the new seam line and place a dot; this will mean a dot at the
sleeve edge and on the neck edge on the appropriate side, as
per the above instructions. See photo 5.
7
Change your sewing needle to a Stretch 75/11 (my
preferred brand is Schmetz) and thread your machine with a
good quality thread.

Before the sewing begins, make your stitch length longer

than average (approximately 3mm [1/8in]), but not a gather,
as a small stitch will stretch the fabric. When starting at the
sleeve edge, it is easy to line up the ribbing on the neck edge
as you come towards it. Use a pin to hold the ribbing in place.

When starting from the neck edge, lower the needle into the
end of the ribbing where it starts at the body of the garment.
This means you will start sewing about 1cm (3/8in) from the
edge, then REVERSE back to the edge, then come forward and
sew to the sleeve edge. You may need to raise the foot of the
machine if the knit is catching, but always keep the needle
DOWN in the fabric and gently push the knit under the

40
 8 Finished
machine foot, then lower and continue. See photo 6.
Like the stitch length of the sewing machine, have the
length of the overlocking stitch longer so that it does not
stretch the knit, and wide enough for the thickness of the
fabric layers. Overlock away the excess, leaving a long thread
tail at the neck edge. Slip the overlocking tail into the rest of
the overlocking by using a loop turner (available from my
website) or a needle. Do not cut the overlocking at the edge
as the threads will stick out. Hand-stitch the seam at the neck
edge so it sits lat.
To ease the sleeve back into the armhole, it is best to place
a gathering stitch around the edge of the sleeve and slightly
gather. See photo 7.
Pin the sleeve back into the armhole, placing the original
shoulder point of the sleeve to the new shoulder seam.
alteration
See photo 8.
To complete the alteration, reattach the sleeve with the
sleeve on the top. See photo 9.
Visit my website www.geniecentre.com and click on the Free Hints,
or you can subscribe to my Free Monthly Newsletter. Exclusive
entry to all Full Feature clothing alteration videos and digital
eBooks is accessible through the ‘Magic Circle’ on the website.
Workshops available.
To purchase Clothing Alteration Secrets
Revealed by Judith Turner email judith@
geniecentre.com or phone 0417 369 339
Price: AUD$54.95 (plus postage). Digital
version available: AUD$39.95
41
3 2 1

1. Purple/mauve/green panel, polyester/elastane, 150cm x 180cm, $45 per panel or $24.99m.

2. Philosophy (M&S), polyester/elastane, colour: Lotus, 150cm wide, $24.99m.

3. Design: 9920, polyester/elastane, colour: A (Morr), 148cm wide, $25.99m.

4. Design: MF9941, viscose/spandex, colour: Hot Pink (MAD), 165cm wide, $14.99m.

5. Design: 9840, polyester/spandex, colour: A (Morr), 150cm wide, $25.99m.

1. Design: 3158 L/Alice, 100% linen, colour: Navy (Ross), 130cm wide, $39.99m.

2. Design: 2950, 100% linen, colour: Powder (Pott), 136cm wide, $29.99m.

3. Design: 3149 E/Rhizophora (Ross), 100% linen, 138cm wide, $32.99m.

4. Italian Linen, 100% linen, colour: Dusty Lilac, 136cm wide, $32.99m.

5. Design: 3037 L/R Havana (Ross), linen/rayon, colour: Charcoal, 137cm wide, $32.99m.
 Latest Fabric Trends
– Sckafs Fabrics

Pick
Whether it’s a jersey dress, top or skirt you’re after, or a linen suit, skirt or blouse,
Sckafs Fabrics have something inspirational and on-trend to offer.

And as always, Sckafs Fabrics will email you suggested Contact Sckafs Fabrics
pattern numbers plus a photo of any fabrics, trims, buttons Shop 1002, Indooroopilly Shopping Centre,
and colour scheme on request. Now that’s service! Moggill Road, Indooroopilly, Qld 4068.
Phone: (07) 3378 8591
Imagine having friendly expert advice on hand to help Email: sckafsfabrics@optusnet.com.au
you decide on your next inspirational sewing challenge. The Website: www.sckafsfabrics.com.au
possibilities are endless, just take time out and visit Sckafs
Fabrics to make your dreams come true.

ACN 010 364 737 ABN 26 309 134 357

Fabrics

5 4
Wear What When
By Eddi Frantz
hen you’re travelling, some things are essential –
credit cards, toiletries, and depending on where
you’re heading, air tickets and a passport. Another
one would be an easy, lightweight jacket in a
seasonless (maybe even showerproof) fabric, a neutral
(often darker) colour and with enough handy pockets to
stash things in without making you look like Crocodile
Dundee. This style adapted from an anorak pattern (see
page 64) is long enough to layer over light jerseys for
sudden chills, but chic enough to look terriic whether
you're sightseeing or supping at that great little late-night
bistro. We show it here over those other travel essentials;
– cropped pants and lats, but it could just as easily
work over jeans, khakis, even a Little Black Dress or a
sparkly top and pants for those slightly dressier dinners.
Other versatile options that won’t ever suffer jet-lag –
,XJLt4FXT
TVQFS
TMFFL
,
QBUUFSO
,BUIFSJOF
5JMUPOT

USBWFMXPSUIZ
MPPLT
UIBU
BSF
PO
QBHFT

BOE

PS


4JNQMJDJUZT
SBOHF
PG
KBDLFUT
XJUI
B
EJGGFSFODF
PO
QBHF


CKET
E JA

Th

The m lti
7KLVSDJH-DFNHWȂDGDSWHGIURP0F&DOOȇV0VHHSDJH7RSȂ.ZLNȏ6HZ.&DUGLJDQȂ0F&DOOȇV0YLHZ&
3DQWVȂ9RJXH0DUF\7LOWRQ9YLHZ&1XPHURȆ&KHOVHDȇZHHNHQGHUEDJDWIDUIHWFKFRP
3DJHȂ/HIWLQVHW'UHVVȂ.ZLNȏ6HZ.5LJKWLQVHW'UHVVȂ9RJXH9
6KDSHZHDUVRXUFHV75Ζ;$1%2'<ZZZWUL[DQERG\FRPDX<800Ζ(ZZZ\XPPLHOLIHFRPDX%(5/(ΖZZZEHUOHLFRPDX
VKDSHZHDU63$1;ZZZVSDQ[FRP
 The DO-IT-ALL DRESS

an a dress literally ‘do it all?’

Well, it won’t clean your
house or make you dinner,
but it will deinitely take
you from AM coffee to PM
cocktails with a minimum of fuss,
and can be easily styled six ways
UP
4VOEBZ
UP
MPPL
HSFBU
JO
BOZ

situation, at almost any time of the
year. It is also effortlessly lattering
to your igure, and is easy to pack
and travel with you anywhere. That
is, the ‘right’ dress will.

4P
XIBU
FYBDUMZ
JT
UIF
ASJHIU
ESFTT

that does all this? Well, an LBD is
the obvious answer, but we think
that there are other, more exciting
BMUFSOBUJWFT
4USVDUVSFE
TIJGU
TUZMFT

may be versatile, but they don’t
latter everyone. A softly draped
or wrapped jersey dress moves
with you while lattering your
form (afraid that all that soft knit
will show every lump and bump?
4IBQFXFBS
DBO
XPSL
XPOEFST
4PNF

details on the facing page).

Colour that dress in a rich jewel

tone for true seasonless versatility.
Wear with black or grey in winter,
light natural textures or metallic
accessories in the warmer months.

taskers
Even with so much choice in fashion today, some things are still
hard to find out there. Things like a jacket that easily crosses the line
between chic and casual, and that can travel anywhere ... A top that
easily moves from day to night … A great dress that’s not dowdy
though not too bare, not too formal but that looks great anytime,45
Wear What When
AM – McCall’s PM – McCall’s
0WRSZLWK s the old saying goes, 0WRSZLWK
0OHJJLQJV ‘One Can’t Have Too M6654 skirt
Many Tops’ (well, it’s not
exactly an ‘old saying’ as
such … just something
that many of us have been
SFJUFSBUJOH GPSFWFS
 #VU UIBU
thinking shouldn’t stop them
from only having one purpose.
In fact, it only makes those
versatile types of tops even
more valuable, especially
when they go beyond the
standard (but boring) go-with-
anything basics.

The best tops today are

strong and singular enough
to stand on their own. They
are designed to make a look,
rather than merely play a
supporting role.

- N I G HT TOP
Y-TO
The DA

There’s also lots of variety

among those standout tops.
Here, we show two distinctly
different styles – one that’s
barer (meant to be layered
over a tank) and that relies
on soft, sensual draping for
its impact, while the other
makes a statement with its
roomy scale, easy shape and
strong print. Both can easily
move from day to night with
a switch from basic leggings,
pants or jeans to a more
elaborate skirt, and a few
evening-only extras. It’s just
like having two (or more) tops
JO POF "T XF TBJE POF DBO
AM – McCall’s never have too many ... PM – McCall’s
03DOPHU 03DOPHU
Pletsch top with Pletsch top with
0OHJJLQJV M6654 skirt

46
TOYOTA ESG325 – ALL ROUNDER
A multi purpose machine that will sew every type of project and need
e
es
you may have. Specialised patchwork & quilting stitches and accessorie
plus all the other stitches and extras you could want or need.

STITCH LENGTH and STITCH WIDTH CONTROLS.

25 STITCH PATTERNS INCLUDING 5 SPECIALISED STITCHES FOR PATCHWORK & QUILTING.

ALL PATCHWORK & QUILTING ACCESSORIES INCLUDED:- WALKING FOOT, FREE MOTION STIPLING G/
DARNING FOOT, ¼” PIECING FOOT, OPEN TOE APPLIQUE FOOT, PIPING/ZIPPER & QUILTING GUIDE.

ELECTRONIC FOOT CONTROL FOR MORE POWER STITCHING & CONTROL OF SPEED.

PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE & DROP FEED CONTROL.

BUILT IN NEEDLE THREADER.

Availablely
ONE STEP BUTTON HOLE. exclusiveight
tl
from spo s
TWIN NEEDLE SEWING. stooree
PLUS MACHINE EXTENSION TABLE AND SEVERAL OTHER FEET/ACCESSORIES INCLUDEED.

www.sewing.aisin.com.au
ME20-12_01

Beautiful Fabrics for all Occasions

many exclusively available in Australia @ The Fabric Shop, Robina

MA Unit 3, 76 Robina Town Centre Drive,
IL
WE OR Robina QLD 4226 Ph: (07) 5593 0016 or visit
LC DER
ST22-11_09

OM S
E www.thefabricshoprobina.com.au
L
Latest Pattern Trends

OUNGE ACT
By Eddi Frantz – McCall’s

THE BEST LOOKS BEHIND

CLOSED DOORS ARE DEEP
IN THE COMFORT ZONE …
SOFT, SLIDE-ABLE TOPS,
COSY HOODED TUNICS
AND OTHER AT-HOME
PLEASURES ARE AT EASE
IN FINE, FLUID KNITS.

EASY SHAPES, SOFT KNITS … EVERYTHING

IS RIGHT AT HOME – M6849: 9HU\ ORRVHȴWWLQJ
SXOORYHU WRSV ZLWK VKDSHG KHP DQG WXQLF ZLWK EXWWRQ WULP
%RWKWRSDQGWXQLFKDYHVLGHIURQWDQGEDFNVHDPVVOHHYHV
FXW RQ FURVVZLVH JUDLQ DQG KRRG RSWLRQ 6KRUWV KDYH VLGH
VOLWVDQGSDQWVKDYHHODVWLFZDLVWDQGSXUFKDVHGGUDZVWULQJ
3DQWVDOVRKDYHHODVWLFLVHGFX΍V'HVLJQHGIRUOLJKWWRPHGLXP
ZHLJKWPRGHUDWHVWUHWFKNQLWVVXFKDVMHUVH\VFRWWRQNQLWRU
LQWHUORFN7XQLFVKRUWVDQGSDQWVDOVRLQVZHDWVKLUWȵHHFHRU
VZHDWHUNQLWV0LVVHV
VL]HV;6Ȃ;;/

www.mccallpattern.com

49
Latest Fabric Trends

What’s New
in the World of

1
L By Kerryn Swan from Kerryn’s Fabric World

Many dressmaking women

dream of making their
daughter’s wedding dress –
made-to-measure and made
with love, to a style of choice,
in beautiful quality fabric. With
so much choice available it’s
the perfect way to go.

Kerryn has compiled a list of

the different types of laces
available, plus suitable styles
for body shape and personality,
to create the perfect gown for
the bride-to-be!

T
he perfect gown is one that its
2 properly, made with a fabric that
is perfect for the style and which
the bride likes the feel of. The style
of gown needs to suit the body shape
and the bride’s personality – something
they feel comfortable in. The length of
the gown needs to be designed around
shoes that can be worn for many hours
– remember, your face cannot smile
if your feet are killing you; that rule
is advisable for every member of the
wedding party.

Altering an existing gown

If you’ve purchased a wedding gown
online and the it isn’t perfect, yes it is
possible to alter it to it, but remember
that this is very costly – the dress has

50
to be unpicked, altered to it and then
3
remade – time consuming, therefore
costly. The length of the gown can be
altered, but edging laces cannot and
should be adjusted to the exact length
during the construction of the gown. If
the gown has edging lace and cannot be
altered, the bride may have to get those
killer heels so she won’t trip over and
end up on the TV show Funniest
Home Videos.

Making a gown from scratch

There is a style of wedding gown
suitable for every igure shape, it’s just
a matter of inding the right style for
YOU. Are you curved or angular; what
is the hem length you would like to
wear – long, three-quarter or short;
what type of fabric do you have in
mind – structured, soft and lowing, 4 Note: The lace bells at the
solid or transparent, natural or man-
ends of the rouleau and
made ibres?
the shoulder flower have
been made from the lace
Go and try on as many different
pieces. Building-up and
ready-made gowns as possible to
overlaying any laces can
get an idea of the styles you like and
create a 3D effect.
what suits. Sketch, pull out ideas
from magazines, look for commercial
patterns and then take them to Kerryn’s
and they can show you fabrics and
colours that are suitable for the style
and it into a budget (if there is one).

Trimming existing gowns

Laces and trims are available in
plain, corded or beaded. Some are Gown made from De-lustred
lightweight, some medium and others Satin from Kerryn’s Fabric
are quite heavy. The very lightweight World, 150cm wide, $26m.
laces are very hard to photograph so
they are better over the entire gown.

The corded laces show up much

better in the wedding photos. Some
corded laces may already have some
beading and extra beads can be added
if the bride wishes – this is a good
way for the bride or family member to
have some input in the gown without
making the entire gown. Certain corded
laces can be cut into motif pieces and
used as trims for a bodice or midriff.
See photo 1.

Kerryn’s stocks lace motifs, trims

and edging fabrics that match to give a
more professional looking gown.
See photo 2.

51
Latest Fabric Trends

5
The newest laces on the market have
a more 3D appearance. See photo 3.
This lace can be cut into individual
motifs to place wherever you like. The
edging can also be cut to different size
pieces or used as an edging. See photo 4.

Getting great value from laces

Some laces are an all-over design
that is 137cm wide and has a
double-edge scallop designed to be
cut down the middle so you get great
value for money.

Beaded pieces
Crystals and diamantes are the huge
fashion at the moment for both
weddings and school formals. They
can be purchased as pieces to be used
6 as shoulder straps, or placed above or
under the bust. The bridesmaids can
have a trim matching that of the bride.
See photo 5. Depending on the lace, it
can be used as one piece or separated
into pieces. The net or tulle is there
to keep the beads in place. Trim off
the excess and the tulle will disappear
when it is stitched to the gown. Most
pieces are beaded with very ine beads
but some are quite funky and chunky.
See photo 6.

The quality of beads will vary quite

a bit. Glass beads are the best as they
will not dissolve when drycleaned.
Beaded laces are a little more expensive
than laces that have sequins. Sequins
are used as ill-ins which will keep the
lace at a more reasonable price. If you
7 are doing your own beading, do the
highlights with beads and ill-in the
larger areas with sequins.

Only bead for a maximum

of four hours at a time and
look to the distance every 15
minutes to re-focus your eyes.

Latest in style
The latest fashion accents for wedding
gowns are interesting straps and
one-shoulder styles. This is a much
better style for most as it stabilises the
garment and helps to hold the garment
up and in place. These trims are perfect
for straps, plus many other places such
as under the bust on an empire-line

52
gown. The ever popular retro fashion is
8
a trend that never seems to fade away
because of its classic hourglass, elegant
look. Waistlines are the main area of
interest so these trims make excellent
belts to highlight the waistline.
See photo 7.

Simplicity or WOW factor

Even though a wedding is such a very
special day some brides just want
simplicity, so a single centre-front
feature is all that they desire. See photo
8. Other brides just cannot get enough
WOW factor so an all-over lace that is
137cm wide with a double-edge scallop
with lots of bling is what we have for
them. See photo 9.

Guipure lace
Guipure lace is making a huge 9
comeback. For the bride looking
for a lace just like their mother or
grandmother wore – guipure lace is
usually the look that they are after.
Guipure lace is made from cotton and
rayon and has a heavier appearance.
This lace can be cut and moulded
to the body or built up to get a 3D
appearance. Any shape can be created
using guipure lace. Beads can also be
added. See photo 10.

Coloured lace
Ninety percent of laces are able to be
dyed any colour that you are looking
for. Nylon, cotton and rayon will all
dye very well. Polyester is much harder
to dye as it will not accept the colour
readily. If you use a strong colour
you will end up with a pastel colour. 10
I suggest dyeing the lace irst and then
matching the linings. It is better if the
lining colour is a little different from
the lace colour so the lace stands out –
with an exact match the lace will fade
into the lining colour.

All laces are available from Kerryn’s

Fabric World whilst stocks last.
Kerryn’s Fabric World, 19 Trinder Ave,
Maroochydore, Qld 4558.
Phone: (07) 5443 1360
Email: kfabrics@bigpond.com
Website: www.kerrynsfabricworld.com

Wedding Gown made by Fran

53
 Kerryn’s Fabric World
WINTER SALE
ENTIRE WINTER RANGE IS IN STORE NOW

www.kerrynsfabricworld.com
19 Trinder Ave, Maroochydore Qld 4558
ST22-11-03

Ph (07) 5443 1360 Email kfabrics@bigpond.com

 7003 Vest & leggings: Loose knits, jerseys. Women's sizes: 44 – 60. Latest Pattern Trends
By Eddi Frantz – Burda Style

7005 dress: Jersey. Women's sizes: 46– 60.

7003 Tunic & leggings: Knits, jerseys. Women's sizes: 44 – 60.

7032 Tunic blouse:

Cotton or linen.
Women's sizes: 44 – 54.

S
Burda Style patterns at www.simplicity.com
oft sell
)RUJHWWKHKDUGOLQH«VRIWÁXLGIDEULFVÁRDW
RYHUDQGÁDWWHU\RXUIRUPXQOLNHDQ\RWKHU
55
 Here at Astratex we provide Melbourne, and
Australia wide with Exquisite European Fabric
Sourced from the designer houses of Europe,
and our NEW collection will not disappoint!
New Fabric in store, Fabulous Wools,
Gorgeous Silks, Stunning Cottons and Jerseys
that are beautiful!
Visit us @www.astratex.com.au or call for
swatches. Our skilled, Creative and helpful staff
will assist with style – to advise and inspire.
We Also Offer: Workshops, Courses and
In house Dressmaking – Stockist
of Vogue Patterns

NEW WINTER RANGE NOW JUST ARRIVED IN STORE

Shop Trading Hours:

Mon-Fri 10am - 5:00pm Sat 10am - 5pm
See our website for samples, new arrivals and
events @ Astratex (formerly Artextil)

Visit us in our beautiful new shop @ 273 Swan Street, Richmond

Visit us @ www.astratex.com.au

In-seam Pockets
This series of articles
focuses on various areas
of garment construction,
offering different methods
to those detailed in the
pattern guide sheet.
The ability to personalise
garments is a great benefit
of being able to sew.
Adding in-seam pockets
can provide both functional
and decorative elements
to many garments. In-
seam pockets can be
incorporated in a new
garment or added to an
existing garment.
1 2
By Alison Wheeler
When deciding to add an in-seam
pocket, consider the most comfortable
and useable placement position and the
weight of the garment fabric.
Pattern pieces provided for in-seam
pockets in dresses or jackets, see photo
1, usually state ‘Cut 4’ from garment
fabric. If the fabric is heavier, for
example in a jacket or coat, it is good
idea to cut two from the garment fabric
and two from a lighter weight fabric.
This will reduce bulk in the pocket area.
The garment fabric piece is the under-
pocket and the lighter fabric, the upper-
pocket. See photos 2 and 3.
When the pocket is placed in vertical
seams, place your hand at a comfortable
level and mark the width of your palm.
See photo 4. Add approximately 5cm (2in)
to that width and mark the top and bottom
points of the proposed pocket opening.
Technically Speaking
To construct the pocket: stitch the
upper-pocket bag to the front of the
garment, and the under-pocket bag to
the back of the garment. Using a 6mm
(¼in) seam allowance when attaching
the pocket bag pieces allows the pocket
to be recessed into the seam and gives
a much smoother appearance to the
inished pocket. See photos 5 and 6.
Stitch the seam to the top and
bottom opening points of the pocket
and continue the stitching to close
the pocket bag. See photos 7 and 8.
To strengthen the pocket bag, either
overlock the raw edges or use bias
binding. If using binding, press the
binding in half and into a curved shape
so that it will easily it over the raw
edges of the pocket bag to be stitched in
place. See photo 9.
3
57
Technically Speaking
4 5
7 8
The seams above and below the pocket opening can be
pressed open.
When including in-seam pockets in pants or skirts,
extending the pocket bag so that it can be attached at the
waist seam will keep the pocket in place while the garment is
being worn. See photo 10.
Another use of the in-seam pocket is to add a fob pocket in
pants or a skirt or below the yoke of a jacket or shirt. These
pockets are great for holding a credit card or bus ticket and,
for the golfers to hold a marker.
The pocket can be made to measure for its intended use. To
make the pocket, decide the width of the opening and depth
of the pocket. See photo 11. Mark the opening area on the
top edges of pocket bag pieces and garment pieces.
58
6
9
With right sides together, stitch the upper-pocket piece to
the upper edge of the garment piece (eg. skirt, pants, lower
bodice). Stitch the under-pocket piece to the lower edge of the
waistand/yoke. See photo 12. When stitching, begin and end
stitching just in the opening area.
Clip to the corners of the upper-pocket section and trim the
seams before pressing to the wrong side and understitching
the top edge. See photo 13.
Pin the two garment sections together, carefully matching
the end points of the pocket opening. Stitch out from either
end of the opening when completing the seams on either side
of the pocket. See photo 14.
Press the seam towards the top of the garment. Stitch the
pocket bag closed. See photo 15.
10 11

12 13

14 15

59
Final Word

A Place in Your Life By Barbara Emodi

T
he question is what place does sewing have in In this current world where no one really needs to
your life? To me, this may be the only question, sew, it is particularly important we do it.
although one with many answers.
The fact is that when we pick up a pattern we are
It has already been established, in this column and downing tools, the ones other people have handed us,
elsewhere, that if you don’t sew you can still be dressed. and making one of the few pure choices we have. The
Transforming what is on the sheep to what’s on your decision to make something for
back, because there is no other option, is no longer the ourselves, with your own selection
issue. of shape, colour and texture is
an act of self-creation and
We sew not because we have to, or even because we self-determination that
can, but because we want to. can be found in few
other places.
It’s the ‘want to’ that I want to talk about today.
It is also a
Doing what you really want, or feel like, is connection across
something that gets lost in the lives of many modern geographies, time
women. The truth is the have-to-do list keeps growing. and cultures.
More duties, obligations, commitments and things When I decide
we are told we should do just to be ‘our best selves’ what buttons to use
are being added to our agenda every day – without I may reach for my
anything being removed. grandmother’s
button jars
It just doesn’t stop! – once a

The days when just knowing how to cook a roast on

Sundays and knowing when to tell the kids to go out
and play were all that was expected are long gone. The
times when ‘career women’ were obliged to look chic
and maintain no more than a date book are gone too.
Instead, we are bombarded by more articles than we
have time to read on how to maintain work/life balance
– although the most those offer is the suggestion to
write ‘me time’ down so we don’t forget it – someplace
where we have a space in the agenda, like say 6:00 –
6:15am on Thursdays.

We are not even supposed to sit down any more

to recover, at least not when we could be upright at
a standing desk, multi-tasking while we write that
report, put the husband on speaker phone, text the
kids and practice our pelvic lift and holds, fully
mindful in the moment.

Give me a break!

60
testament to her frugality, now an opportunity for
me to sew vintage. My hands sew on what hers cut
free, and saved, for me. When my daughter pauses Quality
between her nursing shifts in a paediatric oncology
ward and checks her Instagram photos for glimpses of Knitwit
other fabric stashes and sewing rooms it puts a smile fabrics
on her face, and someone who needs it sees that smile.
delivered to
And as for the schedule, my sewing room is the land your door
where time forgot. It’s not ‘inding myself’ I do there, Have you been inding it
but losing myself that counts. Wendy Gager
diicult to get hold of good
quality knit and stretch fabrics? Well you’re not alone –
Who has not nicked into the sewing room for ‘just from what I hear, it’s the same all over Australia.
a minute’ and stayed there till midnight? Who has not Hopefully this will help – a mail order service based at
walked by that garment on the table and picked up our Knitwit store in Perth which has over 650 bolts of
top quality Knitwit knit and stretch fabric, including
the seam ripper and made an unexpected save? Who
the legendary Knitwit basics like Monaco double knit,
has not been lifted by the colour of the fabric on an Dunedin rugby knit,Trevi ribbed knit, Bianca mercerised
otherwise grey day, like a plant that has been inally cotton knit and many more.
watered? Who has not been restored again and again
Special Offer to Readers of
by the miraculous ability of their own hands to turn
Stitches Magazine
lat fabric into something terriic and in the process
If you would like to learn more about what Knitwit has
realised the person who will wear it is pretty terriic to offer these days, I can send you full details, plus I can
too? Who has not been rejuvenated and refreshed by send you a FREE introductory set of Knitwit seasonal
the marvellous sight of seam lines smooth against a swatches - a current seasonal fabric portfolio containing
sleeve roll, the beauty of a line of stitches, the zipper 32 actual fabric swatches.
that meets perfectly at the top? I can also send you FREE sets of swatches of all the
colours of a selection of our Knitwit basic plain fabrics.
These are not experiences those who can have them, Knitwit E-mail Alerts
should miss. Would you like to receive a Knitwit Alert email when-
ever new fabrics are added to our web site? If you
So take time out, but call it time in. The world would like to receive Knitwit Alert e-mails in future,
won’t end. Someone else will cook supper, that please use this coupon or a copy.
email you were going to send Sunday can be sent
and read Monday. Limited FREE Introductory
Offer Knitwit Swatches
Life was not meant to be prescriptive, with prizes for
those who followed the instructions most closely, but T YES Please send me Knitwit Alert e-mails (not
more than monthly) when you have new knit and
descriptive – a record of where we are, what we see stretch fabrics on your web site
and how we feel. And the more fully engaged we are E-mail______________________________________
© Rivotex Pty Ltd. Knitwit is a registered trade mark of Rivotex Pty Ltd.

in doing that, with as many senses, and with as much

creativity as we can bring to the moment, the more we T YES Please send me my FREE introductory
are able to provide a centre, not just to our own lives, set of Knitwit mail order swatches
but to others too. Name_____________________________________
Address____________________________________
To my mind what the world needs most right now is ________________State______Postcode________
happy people, folks who are fulilled by what they do,
get a kick out of their activities, and understand that  Knitwit, Reply Paid 66099, 4/142 Stirling
Highway, NEDLANDS WA 6009


the best way to feel good about who they are is just to FAX (08) 9389 1777
make something.
 Phone 1300 85 2122
Or submit request online at knitwit.com.au
So check in by checking out ... and sew! Australia’s source of quality
knit and stretch fabrics

61
 500 TIME-TESTED HOME
BOOK
REMEDIES and the Science
Behind Them
By Linda B White M.D
Look no further! Try these timeless treatments supported by
cutting-edge science! From insect bites, insomnia, and upset
stomach to nasal congestion, stress and heart health, this
comprehensive guide offers easy, effective recipes to strengthen
your resistance to illness, ease aches and pains and manage
minor ailments naturally. The authors explain the science behind
these remedies, debunk common myths, and let you know
when to call the doctor. In addition, they provide a blueprint of
wellness for you and your family. This book’s 500 recipes contain
readily available, inexpensive and safe ingredients – many that
you will ind within your cupboards or at the grocery store.

RRP: $29.99
ISBN: 978-1-59233-575-6
Publisher: Fair Winds Press

DELIGHT IN THE ART

OF COLLAGE
By Lisa M Pace
Delight in the details! Add a bit of vintage detail to your
collage work! In Delight in the Art Collage, you will learn an
abundance of mixed-media techniques that will lead you step-
by-step through 40 vintage-inspired projects!
Inside, you’ll ind projects that focus on textiles, metal,
paper, beeswax and more. You will follow along with step-by-
step instruction for beautiful creations such as:
t
"
GFMUFE
XPPM
BOE
[JQQFSUSJN
GBCSJD
DPMMBHF
CVJMU
VQPO
B

background of lace and doilies
t
"
NPCJMF
MJLF
ZPVWF
OFWFS
TFFO
CFGPSF

GFBUVSJOH
QIPUP
transferred metal embellishments
t
"
XJMEýPXFSJOTQJSFE
DPMMBHF
PG
WJOUBHF
CPPL
QBHFT

BMVNJOJVN
QVODIFE
ýPXFST
BOE
GBVY
SFTJO
MFBWFT

RRP: $34.99
ISBN: 978-1-4403-2853-4
Publisher: North Light Books

62
REVIEWS RUSTIC MODERN CROCHET
– 18 designs inspired by nature
By Yumiko Alexander
Enjoy these eighteen clean, sophisticated crochet designs.
The garments feature eye-catching construction based on
very simple lines that come together in unexpected ways.
Stitch patterns have central focus here, as the silhouettes or
TIBQFT
BSF
LFQU
TJNQMF
UP
FNQIBTJ[F
UIF
DSPDIFUFE
GBCSJD

All pieces are versatile enough that they can be dressed up
or down according to your need.
Inspiration has been taken from the natural world – tide-
swept sand, shells, coral, shale rock formations, the colours
of sunset. These designs will appeal to crocheters seeking
for a more upscale look in their garments. Rustic Modern
Crochet features designs in subtle earth tones and warm
sunset hues that hold a cross-generational appeal.

RRP: $29.99
ISBN: 978-1-59668-736-3
Publisher: Interweave

All these book are distributed in

Australia by Capricorn Link.
For wholesale enquiries contact
sales@capricornlink.com.au
Available from all good book shops.

A SEWN VINTAGE LIFESTYLE –

20 pieced and appliqued projects
for quilts, bags and more
By Verna Mosquera
Sew beautiful projects you’ll love to use! Create 20 charming
projects perfect for your lifestyle using patchwork, applique
and embroidery techniques, all illustrated by pattern and
fabric designer Verna Mosquera. Let Verna guide you through
the process and projects so you can start creating a handmade
lifestyle all your own!

RRP: $39.99
ISBN: 978-1-4402-3042-4
Publisher: David & Charles

63
SEWING MACHINE RETAILERS
6HZ 0DQ\ 6WLWFKHV
• 5000 bolts of fabric
• Quilting classes everyday except
Monday: 9.30am – 12.30pm
6HZ 0
DQ
\6
WLW
FKHV

ST20-01_35
147 Queen Street (spotlight plaza), Campbelltown NSW 2560
Email: sewstitches@bigpond.com
Phone/Fax: (02) 4628 4437

6HZ 0DQ\ 6WLWFKHV

• 5000 bolts of fabric
• Quilting classes everyday except
Monday: 9.30am – 12.30pm
6HZ 0
DQ
\6
WLW
FKHV
ST20-01_10

147 Queen Street (spotlight plaza), Campbelltown NSW 2560

Email: sewstitches@bigpond.com
Phone/Fax: (02) 4628 4437
 NEXT ISSUE

Get The Look – Workout Style

By Eddi Frantz

In-seam & Patch Pockets

By Alison Wheeler

The Inverted Triangle

compiled by Lynn Cook

The Kaftan
By Kerryn Swan

Final Word
With Barbara Emodi

Colourblocking
By Judith Turner

Behind The Seams

By Cate Purcell

The Latest Fabric and Pattern Trends

All this and more

66
 Emerald Fabric
Boutique
GOOD OLD FASHIONED COUNTRY SERVICE

Ø Latest fashion fabrics

Ø Large range of knit fabrics
Ø Bridal laces, trims and evening
Ø Dressmaking patterns include
Vogue, McCalls, Butterick,
Kwik Sew, Simplicity, Burda &
New Look.
Ø Dressmaking & patchwork classes
Ø Extensive haby range
Ø sewing machines and
overlockers
Ø Patchwork fabrics and quilt
backings
Ø Sewing Machine service & repairs

MAIL ORDERS WELCOME

Shop 3/107 Clermont St, Emerald QLD 4720

Follow us on Ph: 07 4982 4286 | Fax: 07 4987 7574
ST24-11_03

Facebook Email: jenita@emfab.com.au

Website: emfab.com.au