Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Berlin
December 2017 – January 2018
A Berlin Holiday
Christmas & New Year in the German Capital
Neukölln
Berlin’s new place to be
inyourpocket.com
N°90 - €1.75
Contents
Basics 6
Essential travel tips
Berlin’s Districts 7
Sports in Berlin 8
All about Berlin’s top teams
Berlin Friedrichshain 42
Worker’s paradise, student’s playground
SYMBOL KEY Berlin Prenzlauer Berg 44
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled The gentrified north
As for New Year’s Eve, few places on earth party as hard Sales & Circulation
as Berlin. Don’t make any plans for an early night. In General Manager Stephan Krämer
Production Manager Philippe Krüger
fact, prepare for the seriously long haul. Whatever you
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
are doing, be it in a restaurant, pub, club or simply out Advertising Managers CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de)
on the street (and you really are spoilt for choice) this
will be the biggest party of the year, and next. On word Copyright notice & Editor’s note
of advice: if you do plan on spending the night in a Text, photos and maps (unless otherwise stated)
restaurant, pub or club, make a reservation in advance. copyright In Your Pocket GmbH. All rights reserved. No
Most places sell out. part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the copyright owner.
The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from
We at Berlin In Your Pocket will, as always, be out on the UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
streets for New Year’s Eve. The biggest public party is at tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
the Brandenburg Gate, complete with live music, DJs and The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
fireworks. Wrap up warm and bring your own bubbly. from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
Happy New Year. responsibility for changes and errors.
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Rainfall (mm)
50
(ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student 15
40
associations in Europe. It was developed to help 10
internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present 30
in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36 5
20
countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section 0 10
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for
-5 0
you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or
Rainfall (mm) Min Temp (°C) Max Temp (°C)
www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.
MITTE (MI)
Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title
of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the
boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich
once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments
to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State
Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the
German History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum
Island, Berliner Dom, and the abandoned East German
Parliament building make for more talk, less walk tours. The
architecturally humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel,
whose layout looks as if 17th-century planners got
© dreamstime.com
interrupted during a game of pick-up sticks. It’s on these
streets that the casually chic saunter from courtyard gallery room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it
to sidewalk café, pointing out directions to tourists seeking was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987
out the latest hotspots or traces of the Jewish community social and economic frustration exploded into violence and
that lived here from the late 17th-century until the mass vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations
deportations of the Nazi era. of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long
night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May
1st is essentially Kreuzberg’s way of reliving its 15 minutes
CHARLOTTENBURG (CB) of fame. The rest of the days are marked by backgammon
If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets, at the men’s clubs, café-sitting on the Landwehrkanal,
crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then and ambling down the popular drags Oranienstr.
Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin. Much and Bergmannstr. Two major museums, the House at
of what was here was bombed in the war and built anew in the Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum, are planted in
1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where Kufürstendamm, the staid parts of the district.
Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and Tauentzienstr. come
together. Follow what becomes an increasingly silken
ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting PRENZLAUER BERG (PB)
becomes more genteel where you can’t see the buildings for On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old
the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss working-class district in the former East Berlin that came
Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I. through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to
soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and
along Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.).
TIERGARTEN (TG) Prenzlauer Berg’s few attractions include the Vitra Design
Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare museum and a 19th-century brewery complex that is now
park that began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the Kulturbrauerei culture centre. A good time to visit is
the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with Saturday when the eco-market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or
landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a Sunday when everyone sits outside being cool and eating
dosey-doe around the Siegessäule (Victory Column). Slicing breakfast all day.
though the park’s length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to
the Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are
the museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl. FURTHER AFIELD
Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife
scene are Schöneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and
KREUZBERG (KB) Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and
Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after
anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald
didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of
was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off Zehlendorf (ZD).
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 7
Christmas in Berlin
First s
end
3 we e k e n t
o f Ad v
0-20:00
Sat 12:0 0-19:00
Sun 11:0
www.weihnachtsmarkt-sophienstrasse.de
CHRISTMAS GARDEN
What’s On
EXHIBITIONS
29.09 - 07.01 » ED ATKINS: OLD FOOD
A gigantic baby, a foppish boy and a drowned man weep,
drool and eat grotesque sandwiches of shit, corpses,
flags and masks, failing to learn anything. A nameless
crowd careens down a hole, forever – or forms letters in
Der Wirt vom Schloßberg, Wenzel Bartosch, Bruex, um 1906
choreographed formation. A spartan, looping piano piece
© Wenzel-Hablik-Stiftung, Itzehoe
by Jürg Frey is performed in a concrete cell, a hermit’s cot
UNTIL 14.01 » WENZEL HABLIK: and a bucolic garden in midsummer. Reflexive information
EXPRESSIONIST UTOPIAS panels by “Contemporary Art Writing Daily” essay a barbaric
Utopian architectural designs, expressionist interiors, real world entirely absent from the exhibition. Credits roll
fantastic worlds of colour – all of this is only a fraction of to denote an ending that never begins, and social media
the work of Wenzel Hablik (1881-1934), who dedicated corporations sponsor everything, seemingly unbidden.
himself to a synthesis of the arts as a universal artist. Ed Atkins is one of the most distinctive representatives of a
Hablik is considered one of the most important generation of artists explicitly responding to digital media’s ever-
representatives of the German expressionist avant- increasing ubiquity; Atkins creates worlds of crazed artificiality
garde in architecture and design. Even if the paths of and desperate realism. His computer-generated videos feature
modern art seem extensively researched his work still shabby, lonely protagonists with disarming and marked fidelity.
offers up surprises. The focus of the exhibition in Berlin is His animations demonstrate their digital constitution – their
comprised of his architectural visions and his colourful near-total artifice – even as they simultaneously strive for a
1923 masterpiece of spatial concept as reconstruction. disturbing level of lifelikeness. Atkins’ works get under the
These are complemented by the presentation of viewer’s skin, rendering a queasy corruption of substance, both
paintings and designs, as it is in combination that material and concept – just as the idea of “old food” raises a
the basic idea of the synthesis of the arts as pursued suspicion of use squandered, of goodness spoiled.
by Hablik first becomes comprehensible. This is the For his exhibition at the Martin-Gropius-Bau, Atkins has
first extensive solo exhibition of his work in Berlin. created a new series of works that build upon the allegorical
QF‑4, Martin-Gropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, possibilities of his particular brand of video making, shifting the
Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 aesthetic into ever more precarious areas of desire, historicity,
60, €11/€9, www.berlinerfestspiele.de. Open 10:00- melancholia and stupidity. Atkins is known for a series of video
19:00. Closed Tue. installations peopled by CGI surrogates, animated by motion
capture performances and voiced by the artist himself. In his
more recent work, the artist has expanded his exploration of
the medium, tempering affecting autobiographical figuration
with broader issues arising as a consequence of the form’s
exponential preponderance. Where previously death was
the precondition of love and the logical end point to the
wants of representation, “Old Food” presents a system that’s
at once less morbid and far less romantic. The world of “Old
Food” is always-already lost, persisting regardless, with no
mortal redemption in sight. Like McDonald’s hamburgers,
“Old Food” never rots, never moulders – it simply persists, a
world of melancholy where what was lost remains outside
the possibility of ever being understood, let alone retrieved.
These new computer-generated video works are installed
Design for a Ballroom © Wenzel Hablik Foundation, Itzehoe alongside a vast display of the Deutsche Oper Berlin’s
costume archive, presented as objet trouvé in the manner
14 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
in which they are stored. Part perverse mise-en-scène, part
practical acoustic treatment, the costumes invite a reading 1917. REVOLUTION
of the videos as aspirationally operatic and as compromised
historical dream – both in their failure to sufficiently address 18.10 - 15.04 » 1917. REVOLUTION
their contemporary moment, and their presumed locale, The year 2017 is the
from 11th century Scotland to ancient Egypt to Berlin, and 100th anniversary of the
the world, today. Just as the costumes are displayed in a Russian Revolution. The
manner to subvert their role as instruments of immersive revolutionary events and
storytelling, Atkins’ videos constantly undo both their realism the civil war, lasting in
and their elaborate technology. The effect, ironically enough, Russia until 1922, led to
is one of genuine imminence.QF‑4, Martin-Gropius-Bau, a fundamental, systemic
Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer change that influenced
Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, €11/7. Free for the under-16s., the entire 20th century.
www.berlinerfestspiele.de. Open 10:00-19:00. Closed Tue. In mentality and cultural
history, the revolution at
09.12 - 04.03 » JEWS, CHRISTIANS first brought about an
& MUSLIMS awakening in all areas of
© dhm.de society. It led to new forms
Today’s scientific world rests upon the shoulders of the
Jewish, Christian and Muslim scholars who translated of economy, education and culture, fostered national,
ancient scriptures in the Middle Ages; first in the Middle political and social freedom movements, inspired artists
East into Arabic, and then in Europe – starting in southern and people working in all areas of culture far beyond
Italy and Spain – from Arabic into Latin. The significance the borders of Russia, and challenged the traditional
of this transfer of knowledge cannot be overstated, even value systems of the old European societies. Parallel to
if it wasn’t the only strand of transmission. The arrival of these aspects from the very beginning were political
Aristotle’s writings in medieval Europe, for example, was counter-movements, terror and brutal measures of
possible largely thanks to this translation activity. suppression, which finally brought the revolution to
an end. This development was a continuation of the
violence experienced in the First World War and marked
BERLIN IN BOOKS: the people in the region for several generations. Today
these aspects still play a role. Although the polarisation
THE WILD 1980S of the world first came about as a result of the Second
World War, the Russian Revolution and the founding of
Twenty-year-old artist and the Soviet Union in 1922 paved the way for this future
photographer Christian development. The upheavals in Europe’s largest country
Schulz moved from Frankfurt led to a new political system which stood in sharp
to West Berlin in 1981, just in contrast to the parliamentary-democratic developments
time to capture the city’s most in other European states. This was the point of departure
legendary decade. Thousands for a dispute about the different political models in
of other artists, punks and Europe that raged throughout the 1920s and 1930s.
assorted drop-outs fled stuffy The exhibition at the Deutsches Historisches Museum
West German and made explores the complex revolutionary events in Russia
their way to this heavily subsidised, walled-in beacon and their many-layered consequences for Europe and
of freedom on the very frontier of capitalism. This was considers the question of what reactions and counter-
the age of house squatting, when dozens of crumbling reactions the political and social upheaval triggered in
apartment buildings across Kreuzberg were decorated selected European and non-European countries. With
with insults to the police and reasonably defended the help of various examples, the exhibition also hopes
against the city’s bulldozers. The 1980s was peak punk, to widen the perspective on aspects of the events from
with famed bands drifting in and out of the city, soaking 100 years ago that are still relevant to the present day
up the scene. Everything was political, with world affairs and thus to contribute to a greater understanding of
taking centre stage in local events. Schulz’ fascinating current conflicts.
collection of 125 crisp black and white photos (German On both October 28th and November 7th entrance
foreword and captions) shows how this half of the to the exhibition is free. There are guided tours in
city lived, with street scenes, party pictures, ordinary English at 14:00 on Tuesdays and 12:00 on Sundays.
Berliners, gay pride parades, riots, Tirkish immigrants Additional English guided tours take place at 16:00 on
and of course the Wall and how it all ended. October 31st, and at 12:00 on November 7th.QF‑3,
“Die wilden Achtziger - Photos from West Berlin” Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den Linden
by Christian Schulz, (Lehmstedt 2016, ISBN 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40,
9783957970411) is for sale for €24,90 at Dussmann www.dhm.de. Open 10:00-18:00.
and other major bookshops.
© Bernhard Ludewig
© Michael Jungblut
23.01. - 10.02.18
ADMIRALSPALAST BERLIN
TICKETS: 030 - 479 974 28 01805 - 2001*
www.rocky-horror-show.de www.eintrittskarten.de
As with all shows at the Wintergarten, you can wine 21.01 19:00 » DÚLAMÁN - VOICE OF THE CELTS
and dine as you watch the performance. Shows Irish folk songs.QF‑3, Admiralspalast, Friedrichstraße
at 20:00 daily (except Mon, Tue), 18:00 Sun.QE‑4, 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74
Wintergarten Variété, Potsdamer Straße 96, 99, €44.05-61.87.
Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84
33, €25-59, www.wintergarten-berlin.de/en/show/ 22.01 20:00 » SPECTRUM
sayonara-tokyo. Closed Mon, Tue. Australian progressive rock band formed back in 1969.
QE‑4, Berliner Philharmonie, Herbert-von-Karajan-
Straße 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30
25 48 89 99, €23-50.50.
So big is Berlin, so wide its expanse, that the average In 1737, King Frederick William I of Prussia allowed about
visitor sees just a tiny fraction of this amazing city. A 350 Moravian Protestants expelled from Bohemia to
collection - it has been said many times before - of settle in the area, by then called Rixdorf. They built their
small towns and villages all with their own identity as own church and houses off the village centre along
opposed to a unified metropolis, Berlin is home to many the road to Berlin, today called Richardstraße. This new
wonderful unique districts which often go unexplored Bohemian village (Böhmisch Rixdorf ) was granted its own
by the uninitiated. Every now and then, however, one of constitution in 1797.
these inner-city ortsteil (as they are known in German)
gets a chance to shine. Hard as it is to imagine now but In the course of industrialization in the 19th century a
Kreuzberg - now as hip and trendy and on-the-beaten- network of new streets was laid out in the Hobrecht-Plan
track as they come - was once given a wide berth by in an area that came to be known architecturally as the
visitors to Berlin. The new Kreuzberg, and the latest Wilhelmine Ring. In 1863 a Turkish cemetery was created
ortsteil locals really don’t want you to find out about is north of Rixdorf, the successor of a smaller burial ground in
Neukölln, south of the city centre, particularly the area Kreuzberg established in 1798 for the Turkish members of
bordered by Karl Marx Strasse, Flughafenstrasse and the Prussian Army. It contains the remains of the Ottoman
Hermanstrasse. Given a new lease of life in recent years ambassador Giritli Ali Aziz Efendi, the exiled Grand Vizier
by the same artists, students and migrants who once Mehmed Talat and Bahattin Şakir. No wonder Neukölln was
made Kreuzberg famous and diverse (but have now one of the first districts of Berlin Turks headed for when
been forced out by fiercely climbing rents), Neukolln so many settled in the city in the 1960s.
resembles the Kreuzberg of a few years ago that Berliners
have given it the nickname Kreuzkolln. When both parts of the village were reunited in 1874, the
place had a population of 8,000, and soon became the largest
Neukolln is first mentioned in 1360, as a ‘village village in Prussia. Shortly afterwards it received the status of
south-east of Berlin’, centered around the present- independent city and became notorious for its taverns and
day Richardplatz. Back then it was called Richardsdorf amusement sites. In 1912, in an early attempt at rebranding,
and owned by the Order of St. John; which explains the local authorities tried to clean up its reputation by adopting
why the coat of arms of the current district bears the the current name, derived from the Cölln district of medieval
Maltese cross. Legend has it that the Knights Templar Berlin - an attempt that ultimately failed. Even after being
themselves built a fortress here, where the district meets incorporated into Greater Berlin in 1920 Neukölln remained
neighbouring Tempelhof (from whence the name, infamous for its decadence: the most decadent part of what at
Tempelhof ). the time was perhaps the most decadent city in Europe.
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 21
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Mitte
ROTISSERIE WEINGRÜN
Restaurants & Cafés Set inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what
was once Berlin’s old town, Weingrün’s fresh and simple
interior is a great place to sample regional grill dishes such
GERMAN as Brandenburg duck and roast Saalow herb pig. The cellar
ALPENSTUECK is stocked with wines from the owner’s own vineyards
Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad, in the Pfalz. The restaurant offers good views over the
Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the Spree canal.QG‑4, Gertraudenstraße 10-12, Mitte, MU
dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with Spittelmarkt, tel. +49 30 20 62 19 00, www.rotisserie-
a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and weingruen.de. Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Sun. €€€.
Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing TUGBSW
the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the
palate.QF‑2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN
tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest
18:00-01:00. €€. TUGBS themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly
atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on
MAXIMILIANS the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional
So you always wondered what Bavaria is like – the beer, the treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in
food, Oktoberfest – but you only made it as far as Berlin? broth) and Schnitzel.QF‑3, Tucholskystraße 48, Mitte,
No problem: Maximilians restaurant serves up authentic MU Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84,
and delicious Bavarian cuisine just a stone’s throw from www.schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:00-
Gendarmenmarkt. The menu includes soups and salads, but 24:00. €€. TUNBS
the real specialities are the delicious Bavarian meat dishes
such as knuckle of pork, steak, and a variety of sausages.
QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 185-190, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, @InYourPocket
tel. +49 30 20 45 05 59, www.maximiliansrestaurant.de.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. UGBS
STÄNDIGE VERTRETUNG
MUTTER HOPPE Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not happy when
Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the they had to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn
Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space divided into cosy, hangout (named after the West-German ‘embassy’ in
low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and the GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-back politician’s
historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy meeting point supplies the homesick with their beloved
meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers Kölsch beer and Rhineland specialties (like Blutwurst
sides not served at other German restaurants, including and Saumagen), but the menu has a selection of Berlin
green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or food as well.QF‑3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, Mitte, MS/U
try their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 282 39 65, www.staev.de.
further towards the Spree.QG‑3, Rathausstraße 21, Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. B
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25,
www.prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:30- WEIHENSTEPHANER
24:00. €€. TEGB The one eatery on the sunny square that delivers a “hey, this
is Germany!” experience. The Weihenstephaner brewery
restaurant has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple
and satisfying Bavarian specialities (like white sausages).
BACK TO SCHOOL The outdoor tables have typical blue-and-white checked
tablecloths; inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant.QG‑3,
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district Neue Promenade 5, Mitte, MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel.
is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the +49 30 84 71 07 60, www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de.
watering hole for adult students from all around the Open 11:00-01:00. €€. TUEGB
world who are learning German at the GLS language
school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by ZILLE-STUBE
the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose
with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques. illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes
and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical
DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beaf-
tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de. stuffed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot
GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89 roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG‑3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU
27, www.gls-berlin.de. Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestube-
nikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. E
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 25
Mitte
ZUM NUSSBAUM
FOOD WITH A VIEW What seems a charming old restaurant is in fact a charming
new restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used
to stand on Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest.
When the war-ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the
inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons don’t care for
authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities
with curious translations, such as ‘brown rolls with dripping’.
QG‑3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel.
+49 30 242 30 95. Open from 12:00. €. GB
OTITO
Staying open later than others in Berlin’s tourist district,
Otito is a good choice for fresh Vietnamese food at great
prices, to eat in or take away. There’s fried spring rolls,
wantan dumplings, pho soup and a variety of rice dishes
– as well as an impressive list of sushi options.QLeipziger
Str. 30, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 60 53 00, www.
otito.de. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
VAN LONG
Best visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities,
from all parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty
Thai options served in a modest space decorated with
26 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
Vietnamese art. Try the specials such as the Cha Ca La
Vong fish that you finish grilling at your table, or the Lau
chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.QReinhardtstraße 360° PANORAMIC VIEW EXHIBITION CAFÉ
8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 23 570,
www.van-long.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
AUSTRIAN
BRECHT KELLER
The recipes served here are those of a busy Austrian actress
making do with East German ingredients, so though
decent, it’s not the Tafelspitz (rump steak) that’s famous,
but the spirit of the place where playwright Berthold
Brecht and his actress wife Helene Weigel lived. The small
basement cellar is full of family photographs and original
set models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside is
what could only be described as a romantic brick-lined
lounge area. A wall separates the terrace from the cemetery
where the couple are buried.QF‑2, Chausseestraße 125,
Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 38 43, WITH THE FASTEST ELEVATOR IN EUROPE
www.brechtkeller.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. B
TO THE BEST
VIEWS OF BERLIN
FINE DINING
AIGNER
One of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly
international, as its name, concept and all the old
furnishings originate from a famous Viennese café that
closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his
team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced
fresh from the market.QF‑3, Französische Straße 25,
Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50,
www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00-02:00.
€€€. TUGBSW
BORCHARDT
Borchardt didn’t have to invest much to make a good
first impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the
building’s original tile floors whisper class and luxury. The
money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which
comes up with a different menu each day to keep its
regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans,
ition
the beef dishes here are delectable.QF‑3, Französische Exhib
Views
Straße 47, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 lin
of Ber
81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from
11:00. €€€. GB
FACIL
At the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet
restaurant, chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly
light fare using only fresh, local products direct from the
market. The menu changes daily and has an emphasis
on tasty vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is Opening hours:
a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion with a large Platform: 10:00-20:00
central skylight that retracts.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Café: 11:00-19:00
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 Shorter opening hours during winter
12 34, www.facil.de. Open . Closed Sat, Sun, Open 12:00
- 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. UGB Potsdamer Platz 1 www.panoramapunkt.de
Wh
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 27
Mitte
FISCHERS FRITZ
The restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister and INTERNATIONAL
the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined palate. NOLA’S AM WEINBERG
Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars Delicious modern Swiss cuisine served on the heady hights
that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef first of Berlin’s city-centre Weinberg ‘mountain’. Get your tongue
trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such around amazing cheese-bread-wine combinations and
as those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of enjoy anything from healthy breakfasts to nicely priced
Brunei (as a private chef ). The dining room has light woods, weekday lunches and Sunday brunches to Alpine dinners
deep carpets and a fireplace.QF‑3, Charlottenstraße 49, including various fondue options.QVeteranenstrasse 9,
Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66,
www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30- www.nola.de. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
23:00. €€€€. PAG hh
PATIO
LUTTER & WEGNER Surprisingly few restaurants in Berlin make the most of
Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who put the the wonderful river views - but Patio is an exception,
sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place to share a located on a boat with huge windows, a fireplace and
bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the Konzerthaus large terrace areas. Watch the tour boats glide by as you
on Gendarmenmarkt. There’s a warren of rooms in which try the international, Italian-inspired cuisine, or order one
to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts, of the excellent cocktails.QHelgoländer Ufer corner
and you can trust the national committee that dubbed Kirchstraße, Mitte, MS Bellevue, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 00,
the Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003.QF‑3, www.patio-berlin.de. Open 17:30 – 23:00.
Charlottenstraße 56, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel.
+49 30 202 95 40, www.l-w-berlin.de. Open 11:00-03:00. REINHARD’S
Closed Sun, The warm kitchen closes at 01:00 while the Reinhard’s friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table
Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. €€€. AB in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one of the light
meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel,
PARIS-MOSKAU and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG‑3,
Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station - Poststraße 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242
on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered 52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00-24:00. €€-€€€.
about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly TGBS
positioned between new government offices and
hotels. Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been TRAUBE
serving up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff, ‘The
now. Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb Grape’ serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent
crust, tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: cross-
there’s a lunch menu as well.QE‑3, Alt-Moabit 141, over food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland
Tiergarten, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes
www.paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-24:00, or compose their own menus, with or without wines.
Sat, Sun 18:00-24:00. €€€. A The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF‑2,
Reinhardtstraße 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel.
VOX +49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00-
Highly-paid business travellers from New York, London and 15:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. €€€.
Hamburg look quite at home in this excellent, minimalist TGB
and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. Between
the DJ sets and creative cocktails in the adjoining bar and ZOLLPACKHOF
the show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, Long one of the best German restaurants in the land, this
so don’t drop your sushi in your lap.QE‑4, Marlene- place recently reopened after the completion of a three-
Dietrich-Platz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, year renovation project, and the Zollpackhof beer garden
tel. +49 30 25 53 17 72, www.vox-restaurant.de. Open: looks better than ever. With a superb terrace offering
Breakfast Mon-Fri 06:30 - 10:30, Sat & Sun 06:30 - 12:00. views of the fine main building the menu boasts a wide
Dinner Sun-Thu 18:30 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 18:30 - 24:00. Bar range of first-class dishes, from homemade potato soup
Sun-Thu 18:00-01:00, Fri & Sat 18:00-02:00. €€€. PA with fresh marjoram and Vienna sausages to duck roasted
EGB with oranges. The Schmankerl menu for two is as meaty
a treat as you’ll find in all Berlin. The Sunday Brunch (from
11:30) is set to become legendary.QE‑3, Elisabeth-
Get the In Your Pocket Abegg-Straße 1, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49
30 33 09 97 20, www.zollpackhof.de. Open from 11:00.
City Essentials App €€. TUGB
SUSHI CIRCLE
This sushi bar caters less to the guests of the upscale hotels
in the area and more to shoppers and office workers on the
go. If you’re not quick enough to grab the pieces passing
by on the bar’s conveyor belt, be patient and it will circle
around again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck in the middle
to whip a request off for you.QF‑3, Französische Straße
48, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 650
60, www.sushi-circle.de. Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 16:00-
23:00. €.
SPANISH
YOSOY TAPAS-BAR
Amongst the slick urban restaurants of Mitte, this © visitBerlin, WolfgangScholvien
intimate-sized tapas bar with beautiful tile work and
a Spanish staff is one of the few to proudly show its that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or
roots. High stools and an open storefront give you a nice play Xbox games.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel.
vantage point from which to watch the crowds flowing +49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 -
towards the Hackescher Höfe.QG‑3, Rosenthaler 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W
Straße 37, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49
30 283 912 13, www.yosoy.de. Open 11:00-02:00. €€.
PAB Nightlife
CAFÉS BARS
BARCOMI’S DELI AUFSTURZ
Barcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coffee and The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt
luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions
window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon done here are through the long drinks menu, listing
meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other dozens of excellent Belgian, German and other beers.
heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream Have a Kwak beer to really kick off your night. Prices are
cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also reasonable and the place looks good, with changing
salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaffeerösterei modern art exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite
outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coffee.QF‑5, Oranienburger Straße haunt.QF‑3, Oranienburger
Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 Straße 67, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49
30 28 59 83 63, info@barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de. 30 28 04 74 07, kontakt@aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. TGBS Open from 12:00. EB
PUBS Let‘s
KILKENNY IRISH PUB
The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt go up!
S-Bahn station offer more than enough space for
natives and tourists to eat homemade food, meet and
mingle, party and follow live sports events. Large TVs
and screens make sure that you won’t miss a single
goal. Irish and German beer, whiskey and other cold
beverages flow freely.QG‑3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84,
info@kilkenny-pub.de, www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open
from 12:00. EGBW
Sightseeing
ATTRACTIONS
LITTLE BIG CITY
Brought to you by the makers of Madame Tussauds, The
Dungeon, Sea Life and the Legoland Discovery Centre, Little
Big City is a great new way to experience the story of Berlin
on a totally new scale, bringing you closer to history than
ever before. Located at the foot of Berlin’s iconic TV Tower,
3D, interactive miniature sets complete with amazing
special effects allow you to take a unique look at Berlin’s
most famous landmarks and breathtaking cityscapes
in a whole new way. You could be forgiven for thinking
this is a kids’ attraction: it is, for kids aged 0-99!QG‑3,
Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel.
+49 180 625 71 06, www.officiallittlebigcity.com/berlin.
€12.
Towering 368m above Berlin, the
TV Tower dominates the city’s sky-
LANDMARKS
BERLINER FERNSEHTURM (BERLIN TV TOWER) line like no other building. Plan your
Now as much a symbol of Berlin as any other building, visit now and avoid the queues –
the 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed
in 1969, is 70m higher than the Eiffel tower and still the book your Fast Track Ticket online.
tallest building in Germany. Its observation deck (which
also houses Berlin’s highest bar) offers predictably amazing
views of the entire city and beyond, while the Sphere
restaurant on the floor above the viewing deck comes
complete with a rotating floor. Photos point out the many,
many Berlin landmarks for you. We recommend two visits,
one by day, and one by night (it is open until midnight):
you will get two competely different perspectives. Tip:
buy your ticket online in advance to beat the queues.
The main entrance is opposite Alexanderplatz S-Bahn
train station.QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, https://tv-turm.de/en/homepage/. Tel: +49 (30) 24 75 75 875
Open 10:00 - 24:00. Admission up €13/ €8.50/Free for www.tv-turm.de
the under-4s.
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 31
Mitte
MUSEUMSINSEL 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers NEUES MUSEUM
the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored
impressive collections of art, history and ethnology, in 2009, the ‘New Museum’ is new again and is full of
covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus
well as their cross-overs into modernity. Collection are housed here, with spectacular finds
such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King
ALTE NATIONALGALERIE Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has finds
Cézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany.
some of the artists whose works hang around this One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were
museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure considered to be ‘degenerate art’ by the Nazis.QG‑3,
itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
battered colonnade.QG‑3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 -
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.
www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. PERGAMON MUSEUM
The Pergamon museum is undergoing major
ALTES MUSEUM renovations, with the north wing and the hall with
This neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Visitors
Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection can still see the market gate of Miletus, the amazing
of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from
the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG‑3, Am
sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel.
ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG‑3, Am +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open
Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.
MUSEUMS
BLACK BOX COLD WAR
The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of
the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links
between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban
missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and
texts highlights the main events that took place here.
Wall Panorama QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35
71, info@bfgg.de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
MEMORIALS Admission €5/3,50.
FÜHRERBUNKER
One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM
suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, According to the myth, currywurst is Berlin’s very own
Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in an fast-food creation. A spicy sausage snack that first became
air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced popular in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be
concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached found at train stations and street corners across the city.
by walking to the end of In den Ministergärten, off This quirky museum explains the colourful history of this
Ebertstraße. A parking area surrounded by a pre- culinary creation. There’s a shop with sausage accessories
fabricated apartment complex covers the location, which and you can taste currywurst too.QF‑4, Schützenstraße
was entirely sealed off during the complex’s construction 70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 88 71 86 47,
in 1988-89. The bunker was once accessed through the www.currywurstmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Festsaal (ballroom) behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on Admission €11/8,50.
Wilhelmstraße.QF‑3, In den Ministergärten, Mitte,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz. DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM
The imperial Zeughaus - a pretty, pink, early 18th century
MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS arsenal building by the Spree - houses the impressive
OF EUROPE German History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main
This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness building illustrate the best and worst episodes of Germany’s
surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are history, and there are regularly changing exhibitions in
estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site the dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent
serves as Germany’s national memorial to those victims. an audio tour set for €3 or join the English-language
The design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a highlights tour on Saturdays at 13:00.QF‑3, Unter den
field of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30
creating an undulating landscape that fills two city blocks. 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €8/4.
The memorial has an undergound information centre Under 18 free.
GUDRUN SJÖDÉN
Colourful female fashion designed by Gudrun Sjödén in a
bright concept store right opposite the Hilton. There’s two
floors of clothing and a cozy café corner.QMarkgrafenstr.
32, Mitte, tel. +49 30 25 09 00 35, www.gudrunsjoeden.de.
Wall Panorama © asisi Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Hotels
+49 30 27 59 40 65, www.sammlung-boros.de. Open
Thurs 15:00-20:00, Fri-Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission
€12/6.
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Charlottenburg & the West
Restaurants & Cafés SCHÖNEBERGER WELTLATERNE
Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled
tavern on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz.
Schnitzel variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with
GERMAN pea puree, sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote
APRIL Grütze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red berries), and
This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for warm apple strudel make up the menu of traditional
two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD‑5, Motzstraße
back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD‑5, 61, Schöneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30
Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, 21 96 98 61, schoeneberger_weltlaterne@yahoo.de,
tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.net. Open schoeneberger-weltlaterne.mycylex.de. Open 17:00 -
10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB
KNESE ZILLEMARKT
Alt-Berliner, traditional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on offer at rustic The kind of quintessential Berlin venue you just have
Knese. Try the Königsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes, to come and eat when visiting the German capital.
the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and Serving - in their own idiom - solid Berlin dishes (as well
potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable as much else, including a decent selection of fish and
prices. There’s also a selection of international meals and seafood) this place just oozes charm and atmosphere.
desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some Their homebrewed Zillebrau beer is fantastic and at
good South-African wine.QC‑4, Knesebeckstraße 63, €3.80 for half a litre it’s one of the top value pints in the
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48, city.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS
www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TB Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, www.zillemarkt.
de. Open 12:00 - 23:00. TB
RENGER-PATZSCH
Upscale German dining with a difference. The interior is
kept casual and simple, with all focus on the people and AMERICAN
the food. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes HARD ROCK CAFE
such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared This is the place to head to meet both foreigners and
pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen. locals looking for huge piles of food and un-Germanly
QD‑5, Wartburgstraße 54, Schöneberg, MU Eisenacher friendly staff. America dominates the menu, with nachos,
Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com. wraps, fantastic hamburgers, steaks and chocolate peanut
Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€. butter pie. When the kitchen closes, the bar continues,
allowing visitors to party on.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 224,
RESTAURANT SCHLOSSGARTEN Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 88
A stone’s throw from the elegant Charlottenburg palace and 46 20, www.hardrock.com. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Fri, Sat
several other top-class museums, the Schlossgarten is an 11:30 - 00:30. (€10-20). PAEGB
excellent restaurant with a bright interior, a separate small
‘Jägerstübchen’ room and a large 80-seat Biergarten that’s
delightful in summer. Schlossgarten specialises in German ASIAN
and game dishes, using fresh and seasonal regional products. SUKSAN
Try the spicy venison goulash soup, a game Bratwurst, one of A short stroll from West Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan
the fresh fish dishes or the Berliner calf liver.QB‑3, Schlossstr. is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo
64, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials,
30 36 70 22 99, www.restaurant-schlossgarten-berlin.de. or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or
Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 20:00. fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD‑4,
Ansbacher Straße 4, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de,
www.suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00,
Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
AUSTRIAN
OTTENTHAL
The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh,
seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town,
Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose
liver or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion
Renger-Patzsch of Wiener Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent,
38 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Charlottenburg & the West
FRENCH
LE PETIT ROYAL
Fantastic, high quality French cuisine, focussing on classic
dishes, fresh seafood and fish - but there’s great steak
too. And it’s no problem to pair whatever you order to
one of the 500 wines stored in the large wine room. The
beautifully designed space is perfect for a special night out.
QC‑4, Grolmanstrasse 59, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30
330 06 07 50, www.lepetitroyal.de.
INTERNATIONAL
Zillemarkt
DIEKMANN
Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlin’s simple
and you can rely on wine recommendations (the list is tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what
extensive). Wines and other products from Ottenthal began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers
such as pumpkinseed oil, are available for purchase. This of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann
is truly one of our favourite spots.QC‑4, Kantstraße 153, still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients.
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French
31 62, www.ottenthal.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. cheeses.QC‑4, Meinekestraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU
VGB Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmann-
restaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.
SCHNITZELEI €€€. UGB
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei
is well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up.
No tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the Full contents online:
genre, with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating
a good vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different berlin.inyourpocket.com
variations, though you may also want to try the German
tapas.QB‑3, Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg,
JJ
MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78,
www.schnitzelei.de. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun Zillemarkt
Caféhaus • Restaurant
12:00 - 01:00. €€. TVGBS
GROSZ
A true old-fashioned Grand Cafe and restaurant, conceived
in the same style as during the Ku’damm’s heyday, a century
ago. Grosz not only looks magnificent with its architecture,
the fine dining is as good as it gets in this part of town. Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00
Settle down for an exquisite dinner - perhaps even private Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00
dining? - or drop by earlier for the Plat du jour lunch special
or the cakes from the house patisserie.QKurfürstendamm Tel. 030-881 70 40
193/194, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrasse, tel. +49 Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg
30 652 14 21 99, www.grosz-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - www.zillemarkt.de
23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:30.
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 39
Charlottenburg & the West
DRESSLER
SUKSAN A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of
Berlin’s roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling,
TRAVEL FAR. EAT AT HOME
large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant
meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu
changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden
Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for 39.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU
Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin, Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurant-
offering varied dishes with captivating aromas and tasty dressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB
combinations that will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness,
and healthy and original ingredients are central to our dis- DUKE
hes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. Under bamboo Creative international crossover meals are served in the
roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in Thai settings. Let us aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling
take you on a culinary trip to the land of smiles. 1920s building near the Ku’damm. The open kitchen allows
you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary
treats.QD‑4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00,
www.duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€€-
€€€€.
EINHORN
A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space
only. Every day there’s a completely different menu, with
European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian
dishes.QC‑4, Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn-
catering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €.
100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin NGS
ITALIAN
THAI RESTAURANT LOCANDA
A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming
& COCKTAIL LOUNGE guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing
dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The
pasta, fish and meat dishes are simple, and all simply
ORIGINA delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite
L
THAI FOO
the Schaubühne theatre.QB‑4, Lehniner Platz 2,
D Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80
69 68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €. TNGBS
ZWÖLF APOSTEL
The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior
with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The
Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here
is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business
lunch options offer good value. Also at Georgenstraße 2,
SUKSAN
under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße
49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312
14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€.
TNGBS
Ansbacher Strasse 4
corner Kurfürstenstrasse JAPANESE
U - Wittenbergplatz SACHIKO SUSHI
www.suksan.de An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in
town, dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling
TEL 030.21 01 86 73 the restaurant with some of the best sushi in town.
Not afraid to serve classic and new sushi varieties with
40 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Charlottenburg & the West
world wines, here’s your chance to have bonito with CAFE KALWIL
Sauvignon Blanc, or tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the A cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg.
railway arches.QC‑3, Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering
Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping
82, www.sachikosushi.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coffee, quality
16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€. TGBS teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals
and more.QD‑4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 -
SPANISH 22:00. €€. ABW
EL DORADO
Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting GRENANDER MORNING GLORY
for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at
up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and the counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for
Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just want breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your
to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass morning.QD‑4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schöneberg,
by.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.
MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82, grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€. TUGBS
www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. €€.
B WHAT DO YOU FANCY LOVE?
Away from the posh cafes along the Ku’damm, try a
relaxed cup of coffee, slice of cake, or healthy snack,
CAFÉS juice or smoothie at ‘Fancy’.QKnesebeckstr. 68/69,
CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE Charlottenburg, www.whatdoyoufancylove.de. Open
The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then
renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This café, restaurant
and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as
Nightlife
well as regional food, coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food
served till 22:00.QD‑4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten, BARS
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, ALT BERLINER BIERSALON
www.cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun A favourite for many foreigners - a huge bar with cosy corners
09:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€. TUGB as well as areas where wild sports fans can watch a large
screen. The bar serves well-priced German and international
CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUS food as well as big breakfasts. Groups are welcome -
Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats, actually you can fit 499 of your buddies plus yourself in
polished canes and freshly fluffed pups, but you don’t have here.QC‑4, Kurfüstendamm 225, Charlottenburg, MU
to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout. Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 884 39 90, www.alt-berliner-
Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and biersalon.de. Open 24hrs. €€. TUEGBSW
critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that
are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC‑4, Fasanenstraße GREEN DOOR
23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 This dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An
887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin.de, undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an
www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. €€. improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded,
GB green leather door protects those prone to bumping into
things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and
up, and quite steady on their feet.QD‑5, Winterfeldstraße
50, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215
25 15, www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 04:00.
MOMMSEN-ECK
With traditional charm in a street north of the Ku’damm,
Mommsen-Eck is a comfortable and atmospheric pub
and bistro boasting over a hundred types of best-quality
beer, lovingly preserved and served either inside or on the
spacious terrasse. Full menu, including Sunday brunch.
QB‑4, Mommsenstraße 45, Charlottenburg, MS
Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 324 25 80, www.mommsen-
Suksan eck.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. TB
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 41
Charlottenburg & the West
ZWIEBELFISCH striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly
The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term floating roof whose translucent skin offers shelter for
used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you
appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide,
still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz
youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner 3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49
Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and 30 25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de,
a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00
the beer or coffee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian June - mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-
Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables 16:00. Admission €7/5.
abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC‑4,
Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG
+49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-berlin.de. Open The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussia’s
12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. NBSW first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace in
1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter facade
HEFNER and central tower, took its final form in 1790. You can take
The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool a guided or audiotour of the luxurious and largely Rococo
cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the and Baroque apartments where an eye-glazing number
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms resided. Also here is the
prides itself on having the best selection of Martini largest collection of 18th century French painting outside
cocktails in Berlin.QC‑4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg, France, plus a beautiful Baroque garden, mausoleum, and
MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefner- Belvedere teahouse with a porcelain exhibition. Take bus
berlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB M45 from Wagner-Platz or Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA‑3,
Spandauer Damm 20-24, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-
Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de.
PUBS Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed.
THE HARP New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues closed. Admission €12/8,
A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub New Wing €6/5. Photo permit €3.
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of
homemade burgers. On tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny, and
a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports CHURCHES
events to be beamed on screens, and there’s quiz nights GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE
and live music too. The pub can be booked for special The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark
occasions.QB‑4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlin’s land-
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harp- mark attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe
pub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 15:00, Sat, Sun acknowledgement of Germany’s culpability is declared
from 10:00. €-€€. EBW on a plaque: ‘The tower of the old church serves as a
remembrance of God’s judgement, which befell our
UNION JACK people during the war years.’ The 1895 church was
A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this once a symbol of national pride: even synagogues con-
whisky pub is one of Berlin’s first true pubs and continues tributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the
to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern chapel and bell
(from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are worth
Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers. entering on sunny days for the amazing blue stained
Solid food is available too – home made snacks and Walkers glass windows. Concerts take place every week, many
crisps.QC‑4, Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MS of them free.QD‑4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlotten-
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjack- burg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23,
berlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun Open from www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00-19:00.
19:00. Sun closed.
Sightseeing MUSEUMS
ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM)
The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied
LANDMARKS (US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house
OLYMPIC STADIUM Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from
The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135,
direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936 Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818
Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist 19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most Closed Wed. Admission free.
42 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Charlottenburg & the West
BRÖHAN MUSEUM
A stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and craft
design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by so
much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy and
indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent collection
(spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain, lamps, vases, and
furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter Behrens
and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions.QB‑3,
Schloßstraße 1a, Charlottenburg, MU Sophie-Charlotte-
Platz, tel. +49 30 32 69 06 00, www.broehan-museum.
de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/4.
C/O BERLIN
The famed C/O photo gallery is now based in the iconic
Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There are multiple
exhibitions on at any time, by both unknown and renowned
photographers. Don’t miss the cafe and the museum shop
either.QC‑4, Hardenbergstraße 22-24, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 28 44 41 60,
www.co-berlin.org. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Admission €10/5.
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CRACK BELLMER
ASIAN A barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial
GLORY DUCK RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for
Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous drinking however; there’s film screenings, and a good-sized
new place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with space for dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the
ginger-mango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other entrance at the southern end of Simon-Dach-Straße.QI‑4,
toppings. Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or Revaler Straße 99, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
one of the vegetarian options. There’s a good selection of Straße, www.crackbellmer.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00.
drinks and Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason Closed Mon. UNB
to drop by; the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting
perspective lines, there’s a large harbour scene on one
wall and the toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic
Sightseeing
stickers.QI‑4, Sonntagstraße 31, Friedrichshain, MS
Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck. MUSEUMS
de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. COMPUTERSPIELEMUSEUM
AUBSW (COMPUTER GAME MUSEUM)
The world’s first computer games museum presents six
epic decades of gaming history, including the Nimrom
INTERNATIONAL - the world’s first game computer - the Giant Joystick,
SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE Painstation, Arcade Hall, the legendary Pong machine,
Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service a Wall of Hardware and modern 3D games. With 300
– what more does a meat-lover want? There’s a good exhibits, rare originals and working classics, you’re
choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian welcome to try out many games yourself.QI‑3, Karl-
options.QI‑3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU Marx-Allee 93a, Friedrichshain, MU Weberwiese, tel.
Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 - +49 30 60 98 85 77, www.computerspielemuseum.de.
24:00. €. TUNGBS Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Admission
€9/6.
CAFÉS STASI PRISON
MACONDO The most hard-hitting of all GDR-related museums, the
Macondo was the setting of García Márquez’ novel 100 Stasi Prison shows the sheer brutality of this dictatorship.
Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid Used by the Soviets and the GDR’s secret service to
tropical atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful extract confessions in advance of (show) trials, the
‘reading café’. There’s old furniture to sink in to, views Hohenschönhausen prison swallowed thousands of people
over the Sunday market, good coffee and original who underwent horrific physical and psychological torture
South American mate tea, sipped through a silver in the chilling ‘submarine’ cell block and the interrogation
straw. Bring a book, and time.QI‑4, Gärtnerstraße 14, rooms. A short film is followed by an excellent 90-minute
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 guided tour, vividly explaining how efficiently the prison
30 54 73 59 43, info@mancondo-berlin.de, www. system worked, and how nobody ever escaped. Take tram
macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun M5 from Alexanderplatz to Freienwalder Straße and walk
10:00 - 02:00. BW 600 metres.QGenslerstraße 66, tel. +49 30 98 60 82 30,
www.stiftung-hsh.de. English tours on Wed, Sat, Sun at
Nightlife 14:30. Admission €5.
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Prenzlauer Berg
Restaurants & Cafés
GERMAN
DIE SCHULE
Modern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk.
Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect
place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace
facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these
rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can
Die Schule
have all the German food classics, and even better: you
can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small
samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG‑2, RESTAURATION 1900
Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating
Straße, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-die- photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and
schule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German
food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options.
METZER ECK Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at
Opened 1913, time seems to have stood still in the oldest the weekly market, and on Sundays to fill up at the all-
tavern in Prenzlauer Berg - and that’s the way the regulars you-can-eat breakfast buffet.QH‑2, Husemannstraße
like it. The Eck serves inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages, 1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49
Boulette (hamburger), and Bratkartoffel (fried potatoes), 30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 -
and has a letter from artist Heinrich Zille to the first tavern 23:00. €-€€. TBSW
owner hanging on the back wall, as well as a savings box
that regulars once contributed to.QG‑2, Metzer Straße 33,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 442 76 FAST FOOD
56, info@metzer-eck.de, www.metzer-eck.de. Open 16:00 KONNOPKE’S IMBISS
- 01:00, Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €. NGBS The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts
in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those
spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss
is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like
a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin
wrapping).QG‑1, Schönhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 77 65,
www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
DAILY 11.00 – 24.00 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. €.
INTERNATIONAL
FLEISCHLUST
A spot for those with healthy lust for flesh can grill ‘n chill.
Staff in 1930s outfits serve excellent steaks, cooked anything
from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the undecided,
there’s a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve into the
wine and cocktail menu.QH‑1, Pappelallee 36, Prenzlauer
Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 67 54 14,
Modern and light German food http://fleischlust.jimdo.com. Open 17:00 - open end.
on Berlin‘s catwalk no.1 GUGELHOF
During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrification,
the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state:
KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLIN
Schröder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made surprise
FON: (030) 78 00 89 5-50
visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share the menu; this
info@restaurant-die-schule.de is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust Alsatian pizza. The
www.restaurant-die-schule.de atmosphere is lively and service is friendly.QH‑2, Knaackstraße
37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30
U2 Eberswalder Str. U8 Rosenthaler Platz 442 92 29, gugelhof@t-online.de, www.gugelhof.com.
Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 47
Prenzlauer Berg
SANTIAGO
ITALIAN This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a
PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI somewhat dodgy interior – leather sofas and glitzy girl
Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the statues that wouldn’t look out of place in a nightclub
service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel – but manages to get the punters in with a range of
of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is attractively priced offers like cocktails during the happy
highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due (before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). There’s an
Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG‑2, eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at
Schönhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder weekends.QH‑2, Wörtherstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open
16:00 - 03:00.
JAPANESE WEINSTEIN
SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM An older crowd savours an evening of conversation and
Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor
this five-table joint, but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki, the 40 vintages available by the glass. There are few better
California Make and vegetarian items all run about €3. All places to try the outstanding German whites that usually
sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any don’t make it out of the country and there’s also a selection
explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak of sherries.QH‑1, Lychener Straße 33, Prenzlauer
English.QH‑2, Rykestraße 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 441 18 42,
Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 - weinsten@weinstein.eu, www.weinstein.eu. Open
23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€. 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.
CAFÉS @InYourPocket
ANNA BLUME
Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha flower
girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up WOHNZIMMER
coffee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts, If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe
it’s one of the better spots for people-watching or just would vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is
reading. Intriguingly, it also sells flowers (Blume) from the ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDR-
connected shop next door – and the smell of coffee and era tables are constantly being shuffled to make room
fresh flowers combines very well.QH‑2, Kollwitzstraße 83, for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s coffee and
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 pastries in the morning.QH‑1, Lettestraße 6, Prenzlauer
87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00. Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 445 54 58,
www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 - 04:00.
SCHALL UND RAUCH
‘Noise and Smoke’ is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buffet
on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar CLUBS
at night together with a variety of artists, students and GEBURTSTAGSKLUB
young in-crowd. But it’s more than just a café - the adjacent Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of this
hotel has modern and affordable double rooms.QG‑1, otherwise spacious cellar. Don’t miss the mad monthly drag
Gleimstraße 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser party with Nina Queer. Like at many clubs in Berlin, you
Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de. have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard.QH‑2, Am
Open 08:00 - 02:00. Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Schillingstraße,
tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05, www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open
Nightlife Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00.
SODA CLUB
BARS In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a
AUGUST FENGLER fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played
A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there aren’t just on Thursdays and Sundays (€5, starting off with a lesson
football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley) hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays there’s five dancefloors
too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and with electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get
the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups in for free until 01:00.QSchönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer
of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco, Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 443 151 55,
and funk in the small back dance room.QG‑1, Lychner info@sodaberlin.de, www.soda-berlin.de. Open Thu
Straße 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00
www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.
48 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Prenzlauer Berg
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS Raumerstr. 8 [Helmholtzplatz]
40301770
KULTURBRAUEREI www.tausche.de
Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century
brewery and you’ll eventually find an entryway into a
nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A
cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre
of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is filled with
bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only
thing you won’t find is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss
shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both
a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and
Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to
live bands.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52,
www.kulturbrauerei.de.
MUSEUMS
ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZEL’S MIETSHAUS
Gentrification has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg
apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating
museum shows master carpenter Brunzel’s apartment
in its original state, with extensive information about
its construction, utilities, furnishing and the often
squalid living conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer
Berg and Berlin.QH‑1, Dunckerstraße 77, Prenzlauer
Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 445 23 21, FASHION & SHOES
www.ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.de. Open 11:00 - TAUSCHE TASCHEN
16:30. Closed Wed. Admission €2/1. Bags with exchangeable flaps in
over 100 different designs. Two
flaps are included and various in-
PARKS AND GARDENS sets equip the bag to suit any oc-
MAUERPARK casion.QH‑1, Raumerstraße 8,
The immensely popular ‘Wall Park’ has no greenery Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eber-
to speak of; this is an intensely used piece of former swalder Straße, tel. +49 30 40 30
border strip that’s especially busy on Sundays when it 17 70, info@tausche.de, www.
hosts a flea market and the immensely popular Bearpit tausche.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00,
Karaoke (every second Sunday from 15:00), where Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a crowd
of thousands.QG‑1, Eberswalder Straße, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.mauerpark. MARKETS
info. FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK
Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative
Shopping souvenirs and antiques - it’s all available (though not
particularly cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark flea market.
Arrive early to avoid the crowds.QG‑1, Bernauer Straße
BOOKS 63-64, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Straße, tel. 0176
SHAKESPEARE & SONS 29 25 00 21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00
An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun
Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language 09:00-15:00.
books as well as coffee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through
a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH‑1,
Raumerstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Full contents online:
Allee, tel. +49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun berlin.inyourpocket.com
11:00 - 19:00.
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 49
Hu ls rge Sredzkistr. anz Thälmann-
D An
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win
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Ga
wedte
upp
it
ll
Str. tr. Park ton
rS
llw
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ite
er A
rt
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ens orme
ke
l ee
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iner
berg do tr.
Ko
J.- E.- nhaa
str.
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rst
str.
tr. Arkona- Jab wieck fko
r.
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tr. r b
r
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est
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ö Str. w- Volksp
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Kreuzberg
We uss- .-
Str.
B.-
Str.
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Str.
S
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r St
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Stre
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tr.
n e
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ord
rS
str. o
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str
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str.
B .
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tr. rg-
der
rtz-r. nsk Str
Cho
r S
me
w
Ca
Bo Die Da
B M
er
a a
Ankl Feh tr. rch- s i . S
Str .-Ku
e tr.
tzo
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strrg- Kn
ro l
nh tric n
Ac
Str. PR
tr.
rbe hw aac nbu
Bö
kop zig
W
Sc
mer
ine
k
o
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edt
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llin kst rge Str effe h-
er
ho eden
Ankla tr. er er H.-Ka
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str
er r.
.
rS
er
Str
Allee
Ber s . r-
it
Zio
tr.
n t
Str plin
f
r
ich
Str arer
S
Pa Arnswalder Str Str. elle-
community and more i r .
The Bergmannstraße area is best reached from p
rane Str.
llw
k
Co tr.
gst eth nsk tr.
nss
Be Imm
Brunn
str ch-
ae
r. ab str. Vete .
irch lfo
Tem
Ko
ch-
lm
anu ste Pl.
.
.
rte
Wi
.
lis
ar
str.
.
Nordbahnhof hippies, anarchists and Friedrichstraße station on the U6; get off at Mehringdamm, urs
Str
U rS elk Hu
to-
s
-St
Esm
L.-
g
ees
S Pappel-
Eli
r Raa irch tr. -
-w e
itze tr. fel
r. Volkspark Feh ltze
Ot
st
r.
en
Allee
d
ens
w Inval i platz Senefelder Platz b est s tr. a nd Bo
tr.
rbe
tr.
no r. He
er
alternative folks than or at Platz der Luftbrücke for the Viktoriapark. For the gritty
Co .- bg.-
N
gs .
n M r. - E.- tr.
str.
i l
ws
H i
tr.
Z St line etz ede Str ma r
Für St anz
ein
tr.
ld
Zeh
E t en .
nb
Eichstr.
Acke
es
r e .
tzo
U den Lott r St rich r kirc str nn S
Str. Sa tr.
wa
ser
s r
Wei
.
you can shake a bong at, end of Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz -
od
.
Str
icke um arb r. -Ro
Bö
r- hne
-
röde r-S
s-
str.
inen
endo
uer
r -
ipr
rüc ller
au
rs
ndemuseum
Ga
ifs
n
el- Sch str. Berg
St str. rS me
Ha
ke -St
tr.
tr.
Kn
ö nh
Kreuzberg feels neither east r. and pop up at Kottbusser Tor. The Kreuzkölln bars are
rte
leg
nzla
om
s ker- Christ
r.
Gre
Bors
D
rf
r
c U V
Ch
Rosenthaler Platz
rge
nst
S Torstr. str. S
kstr.
f-
ir .-
rS
Sch
Tiec Torstr ain strchow M
Pre
a
r.
bu
nor west. It was the black within pubcrawling distance of Schönleinstraße and drichsh
igs
dem .
tr.
uss
Linienstr. Linienst
Am Frie
. -
aß
ige
Novsatr.
tr.
Tor r. r B
Prenzlaue erg
St r
ee
Ha Koppen- T
Joastr.
Ha sheep of West Berlin, literally o Hermannplatz stations, on the same line.
Ros
rS
r. r
Rosa
m
Torst nstr. S burgKel. platz
tr.
nn str.
str
Str. user
lis-
Gormanns
ove
Rüc
chim
M.-Betr. - ha tr.
L an
.
ent
rsch Liniecornered up against the
tr. r Mula Fri Volkspark
Große
ed
- Lu
e Str. ckstr U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz
gen
str
tr. Gips Ste Hö
str s-
-
ha
gusts inst . en
hn el
st Friedrichshain
A u str. ch
bec
Mo
.
death strip and left alone r. Rosa- POCKET WALK: KREUZBERG
so end
ler Str.
Oranienburger Tor U
h-
ste
adtstr.
S hön
Sop
Vir
er-
irc
Hamb
kst
xem
hie
ch
ienb Oranienburger Str.
nk
.
Sc
e
Str
Hir r.
str.
nst Ba
ein tr. r. dsb
r.
to play loud music and Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der
r.
ge
ow
urge Wa
str.ten-
Friedrichstr. Am s
r. U
.
snick- strrnim W Lan
str
Almst
Alte
or
r S
burg
dze
urger
st
str.
rau str.
Ge
Str. cks . -
draw on the walls. By now, Weinmeisterstr. ih ng
Luftbrücke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the
un-
Johannisstr. tr.
el-
.
K
Str
c
-Str
. üs
lsky-
annstr Oran
Str.
ib
Mol
Bra
str.
chum the protesting students ienburger Str. A lstr. B
Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards
Ke
- lexa
Platz der llee
ustr.
.
Ziegelstr.
Vereinten Landsberger A
Dircksen
Mat
Tucho
dtstr. t
ndauer
Monbijoupark str.
ar h p lat nde
Zirk
ec
nh of 1968 have grown grey and walk along genteel Bergmannstraße, perhaps
nbijo
o-
Rei Nationen
Albre
hias
Hackescher Markt S r.
-
Bertolt- Ro n ch z r Ber fst
Ri
-
Ott
k
u
Br.
. olin
er Str.
tr or
. er
Spad.
ieb S
ns Brecht- W
Mo
str.
Marie astr.
Burgstr.
alongside the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987, Ro eyd visiting a café or the market hall, before walking south to nd
Str berg
c
A.
Platz U
L
htstr
strsen eme fe
Geschw.-
rl- K y u
Scholl-
U Alexanderplatz arl-
er-
s
. - P
A.
Kreuzberg relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional Columbiadamm for access to the former Tempelhof airport,
r S s-
au
KaFernsehturm .
.
tr.
Str.
nberg
rge ch
Ku
Museums
Fri
Friedrichstr.
Str
S U Jac U Schillingstr.
Planc
be iedri
Sp
pfe
ed
- insel str. oby
a m m er May Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into str . Ma now a wonderful park.
str.
an
rgr
str.
en
d e
St r
Fr
u e r rgen - str. o d s rx-
Lichte
tr.
ba uf u
str
ab
Geo
k-
da
B
stag tha Neu Allee
Palis
ers
er
Ale
a long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise, Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg
en
.
tr.
ue
un
Au
eB Strausberger Platz str.
r
tr.
xand
Dom
Kreuzberg is aMITTE
perfectly safe district to wander through, and Rotes zins lum
at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through
str.
tr.
Str
str.
ns a
Litt
ee g e n U
roth a
Glinka-
K
Gr
Mittel- str
. Rathaus M str. a rl -M Weidenw
.
. arx-Allee
ens
erstr.
r
tr.
st tr.
str.
gs
u e
Unter deBebel-
r.
tha Nikolaiviertel air
tr.
Volt Sin
St
Schloß-
r.
illin
U Weberw
str.
Ra ger
Krautst
U
Oberwall
Koppen-
den
Unter den Lin along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former
ten erstr.
platz s
Charlotten-
Andreas
r.
Sch
ger
Friedrichstr.
platz
elmst
er- Stral
Wesrdtr.
H.-Jada
ne
S
m
lln
ber
Oranienstraße and Bergmannstraße drags. Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre
am
Kommu
Br
U
Str.
Wa
r.
Ma
nd
ch e d u fer H Wa tr.
Franzö sis R o l a n
Jannowitzbrücke olzma lnerst
l
This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to
e
hle
rch
tstr.
Oberwall
Kurstr
L ic h
St
Jägerstr.
Mü
lew
r.
S Rü
üd
ust tr.
Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof
Krau
café-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn
str.
Jäger- str. Gendarmen-
Glinkastr.
de
ers
Maue
skis
.
ial r.
str.
pen
markt Taubenstr. t rsd
Fis
lls
tr.
r.
n-
r
Wa Langestr. or f
airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors line to lively Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into
ise
kenst
Tauben- Stadtmitte
tr.
U Hausvogteiplatz
Kop
ch
Kolmar
Markgrafen-
straude
er
Wilh
rstr.
N K k
str. Runge- St Wede
eri
wa ie urs
Par
Mohren- U
str.
l d t st r. W
in summer, and the upcoming Neukölln district. Here, l r. Falckensteinstraße to discover more of Kreuzberg’s street
Ho
str. er-
ns
U Mohrenstr. U r.
.
str. ma rie
rtr
Brüc
str.
Märkisches Museum
Andreas
elms
el
Ka ze
lz
-Str.
er
. r
Ge
str. s tr k r n
Kronen
the Kreuzkölln area around Reuterstraße is increasingly Wall Jak tr.
o sb tst
art, or head south along Ohlauer Straße and across Ostbahnhof ree er
ed
Mohrenstr. Spittelmarkt U
Roß
Ne str.
r. ue r. Am
Leipziger St
Wr
hstr.
Se
tr.
Ne Köp Os S ie
ß
ue
Stra
er Leipziger Str. lstr. bstHeinrich-Heine-Str. U Str
lkirc
He
r. lau
tr.
Krausenst o
Friedrich-
An Str. er P f
ls
ko
hae
Ja
r.
Grü eue
K om ne
str. tr.
Sch latz
nst
Str.
uer
Schützenstr. FRIEDRICHSHAIN
te
Mic
ns
ring
í Museum ma mid
N
Al
Fo
tstr.
nda t
s
r str.
-
Platz . r
l-Sp
n
nie amm
eine
Checkpoint me
Zimmerstr.
lber
mm
Seb
Charlie rb
Axe
ten
An
G H I
tha eld
tr. or
h-H
ederkirchners
Ada
nda
ast
ne Melc de
s
Be Eng
.
. tsc
Str
der Du K r
ian
Sta
r bor di- .
Mü
me Ru s ö
nric
For Kochstr. t r.
Wilh
Ora pe
ck-
str.
lls
hle
Markgrafenstr.
r e str.
ch
Charlottenstr.
Hei
rna
Kochstr. U str. ld amm e r
rei
n
O2 World
Dresd
elms
-Ha
Beth Str. e
be
an
lter
m
a anie
ns
rst
M.
h
Friedrichstr.
r.
rdam
n n d a m
chne m
m
tr.
A Str.
tr.
tr.
ener
r.
Ea
Leugs iendam
ens
st S
str.
r Ritt Moritzplatz
tr.
a
rgeS Anhalter Bahnhof
erst ide
Tam
Mariannen-
hns
kler
Kö
Str.
Wa
Lind
r.
str.
U ldem pe Ga
lstr.
platz
str.
ller
a
Str.
Püc
r. nic
Le
arst
enb
y
4 ke
uffe
eck
r.
Str
rS
t-
Eis
Oranien- W G
Jakob
röb
lber
ran
Lob
er-Str. tr.
nte
es
s tl N aun g en
ün platz Mu els
tr.
str.
u
em
Ma
K
Ada
r.
r . - y n W s t r fer
erns
kau
fst
F Ora str. .
r.
Ritt alde
zen
Schlesisches Tor
nst
Alte
er
an
nien mar
ho
dam m
str.
ck
str.
dam
ns
ine
ug
Prin
m
Neu r. U
Linde
Mö
str.
Ze
enb
tr.
Lausitzer
dr
urge Wa Heinrich
str.
r Str.
sser
xan
hle
eck
hen Tor
nstr.
tr. S
Str
Kottbusser
Ale
Hallesches Mehring- - s
tr.
U
Lob
er
er
platz
ben
ber
U Gitschiner Str. platz S
eln
Görlitzer Bahnhof
ein
str.
Str.
ger
Hallesches Tor U Gitschiner Str.
Lüb
platz Wr
str.
Kott Str.
ckernbrücke
nst
nen
ang
Op
Sor
Str.
lstr.
W
erenstr.
o
er
o Prinzenstr.
Waterlr
ien Gör
tr.
els
cke
-
Erke gitz-
er
lenz
rian
er
Zossen
Obentr litze
irals
Böckler- tr
uffe
Str.
buss
sitz
Görlitzer r St
-
Johan
vry
Se
Ma
str. park
ngdamm
nte
Reic
Adm
Lau
it er s r.
Großbe
u
n-
rst
Ma
Blüche
er
tr.
str.lherre
lüc ber
r.
Warte
S
ger
ldst
nbu
str. rg- Mehring- U ers Fraenkelufer
er
.
Str
pe
rwa
Str.
u
Wie
h
str.
tr. Planufer
a
damm
Tem
ner
U
.
Str
Oh
ri
efe
Bae
Baruther Str. Ma
Str. r
ornstr Str.
zer
Meh
r.
alde
yba
r
Reic
Urban chu Paul-L
ste
.
St
Gra
rlit
Str
str. h e
Solmsstr.
inck
For
Zossener
Gö
Dief
Mittenw
r
er
str. e g
str.
ks a rk ne e
t
Gneis chst Bü r
r.
gni
Str.
5
eerenst
r.
er
m-
enau
str.
str.
Kott
tr.
Sanderstr. Pist
.
Lie
Erich
gau
rstr
tr.
s Ma
Grim
Schivelbeintr. Gneisenaustr.Rode
machers
str.
str.
-We
Friedelstr.
oriu
s
str.
yb
wald
efe
r. Stre
Max-S
agel- ber
len
Beger
mm
Str
s
Bl
ust
de
. s
nlein
i ne
m
er Str. n t
Gra
buss
promntane-
b - t
Nostitz-
üh
lck
r.
üc
e S
Großb
r.
Rat
BeHrelid K
U rg- tr. itius r
PflügerstLr.an
i
r
Solmsstr.
Kug
ena
Leh
eha
he
hm
Bae
er
str.
Roe
lers r. ders
Mehringda
tr. rtest
rst
Zossener
eim
teink
Schö
Pau gha
Lo
Dänenstr. GneAllee
Schleier
Schönhauser tr.
Reuterstr. B
Fichtestr.
r.
O
er D
Fo
Hobrecht
s
tr.str
n elb
is l
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Str.
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ees raUsse-S
r.
e
seesn
Bergm
e-Str
U S str. Stre
est
tstr.
Sta
str.
e
tstrGraef
am
n L ü l e
l erst
Friedelstr.
ye
Jahnstr.
ann
H.-Ba
W
str.
cke
Arndtst e
rst
er
Schwed
r H M
Ystad
ich str. r.
.
Str.
r. arz
nie
lin Bizetstr.
sem
Sme fer
imstr.
r Allee
Dun
ert Hasen er
Kiehl
ser Ber
tr.
lstr.
Glleeixims-str. We
Sül
str Co
um-S
W.-A
Pan
str.
Str.
heide Str
ner
itzs
u
Ho
. Hermann- hnst
e
tana
Bo
Str. Ostsee- .
r Str.
sse
Eric str.
Gleimstr.Fidicinstr.
He
u
ter
Greifenhage
Friesenstr.
Gub
Rüt
Son r. W
tr.
h-W platzplatz r.
.
eisgt
Mah
lstr
thfe
str.
S o d
e
tr.
mstr
. Platz der Luftbrücke
U Falk- udystr
. Jüt erboger Str. e c hie nen ou n a
alle
ine Gü
Schönhause
nd
Tel
els
a r Hermannplatz r U a G
Me
G i r
lerstr
platz
pel
str
rga str r
eic
. We
lda
str.
rd tr. Ahl
Grau
Pap
lstr Ka
tr.
.
ZüllichauereSr se
W
Str
Am F
c S rst
anstr
Str Wissmannstr.
tr.
.
er
Herm
str
arx Mich
Gub
str.
sem
r. Hasenheide
es
alkpla
Nauga
en
Columbiada . tr.
ch
Platz der So
.
Elb
str.
h
mm -HSat elan
tr.
bru
Ho
nn
Lyc
Mainzer
Luftbrücke
hls
annstr.
en
en
Ra 0 1000 m
cke
n-S
tz
eolnoa
rder S
um all
ild
.
-E
Str
sutsr.
Dun
Kaiserkorso
. ers ee
W
i
Schulenburg-
tr
rstr.
s T s
nn-
s Colu G h l W
ofe
Reuterst
r.
m
tr.
biad l a
Ma
str. ers
hth
n-
felde
Str. Karlsgarte s-
ring
park amm
Inn
Wo
tr.
Str.
st r. k o w S U Rathaus Neukölln
Str.
Eberswalder Str. r t
50 Berlin In Your Pocket lder Str. U er r.
berlin.inyourpocket.com
llin
Sene
er
a
r.
s w L
NEUKÖLL
g
gst
Eber
ler-
Sto
He illi- r. Do
r.
st
We
Wo
ald
amm
.
er S
n ns tr
lffring Danzig n- Boddi
rwe
Stroch-
Str.
Eis
FlugShafe U Boddinstr.
fsw
na
er Neckarst
r.
tr.
Al
H.-
.
ay-
Fr
ste
us t
B
r.
Kreuzberg
Restaurants & Cafés PAGODE
Simply one of the best
Thai restaurants in
GERMAN town. It feels crowded,
ALTES ZOLLHAUS steamy and noisy,
A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs house but that’s just part
along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a calm, rustic of the authentic self-
atmosphere in which to try regional specialities featuring things service atmosphere;
such as goat’s cheese, dumplings, mustard sauce and compotes. wait till you sink your
QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstraße, tel. teeth in the fantastic food. The open kitchen uses
+49 30 692 33 00, www.altes-zollhaus.com. Open 18:00 - fresh vegetables and herbs that are flown in from
23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. TUGBW Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. There’s
seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as
outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße
88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30
youtube.com/inyourpocket 691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00
- 24:00. €. VBS
HENNE
Who knew that the Germans fried chicken? Other than a few
Wursts, chicken is all that’s served in this cosy corner tavern, KARTOFFELPFANNE
along with sides of coleslaw and mayonnaise-filled potato The best-tasting potatoes in Berlin, Wiener Schnitzel
salad. The crisp, salty skin gives you another reason for and vanilla pudding with Rote Grütze (fruit sauce) are all
quaffing yet another beer or wine. For a few euros, you get a found at the Pfanne. The good beer selection includes
lot of wood-paneled atmosphere.QH‑4, Leuschnerdamm Warsteiner and Weihenstephan.QF‑5, Burgherrenstraße
25, Kreuzberg, MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 614 77 30, 11, Tempelhof, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30
www.henne-berlin.de. Open Tues-Sat from 19:00; Sun 892 59 49, www.kartoffelpfanne.de. Open 11:30 - 23:00.
17:00-22:00. Mon closed. €€. NGBS €-€€. TUNGBSW
THAIRESTAURANT
KINNAREE THAI
Named after a mythological creature representing female
beauty and grace, Kinnaree is a friendly and affordable
Thai restaurant serving everything from Satay Gai chicken
skewers in peanut sauce to spicy green curry with shrimps
and bamboo. There’s a range of cocktails and quality wines
too.QSüdstern 14, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 57 79 41 99,
www.kinnaree-thai.de. Open 12:00–23:00, Sat 13:00–
23:00.
SAROD’S
Kreuzberg’s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent,
healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options
on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat
with roast rice, coriander and spices). There’s a good
selection of wines too.QFriesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33,
www.sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00.
€€. TGBSW
AUSTRIAN
Open daily 12:00-24:00 AUSTRIA
Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte
Sundays from 14:00 where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner
restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in
Friesenstraße 22 the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting
is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and
tel. 69 50 73 33 antlers on the wall.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße 30, Kreuzberg,
www.sarods.de MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www.
austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€. TUBS
52 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Rie mers
Kreuzberg
RIEHMERS
Gorgeous, contemporary dining in elegant Kreuzberg
surroundings. The food is as upmarket as the place itself,
and the menu changes with the seasons: the chef uses only
what’s fresh and available. It’s always a mix of inventive fusion
cuisine and modern remakes of classic dishes, including a
wild garlic risotto that will have you doing cartwheels of
delight. At this time of year the tables outside on the street
are a prize worth reserving well in advance. Prices very
good given the high quality.QF‑5, Hagelbergerstraße 9,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80,
www.riehmers-restaurant.de. Open 17:00 - 23:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. €€-€€€. TGBSW
Hagelberger Straße 9
10965 Berlin
T 030 78 89 19 80
www.riehmers-restaurant.de
Riehmers
Orient Express burger has beet root, spices and special date
FAST FOOD chutney, and there’s three other burgers to choose from.
BERGMANN CURRY Finish off with a low-fat Shrikhand yoghurt. Set menus
A fast food joint with quality organic Currywurst, fries, from €6-8,50.QF‑5, Friesenstraße 26, Kreuzberg, MU
meat balls and more. The menus include the ‘Rockefella’ Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 623 10 04, www.glueck-to-
dish served on porcelain with a glass of champagne, and go.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-20:00. €. B
there’s vegan wurst, burgers and sweet potato chips too.
If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot chilli sauce from
the bottles on the ‘board of pain’.QBergmannstraße 88, INTERNATIONAL
tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www.bergmann-curry.com. Open ANKERKLAUSE
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. The bohemians that hang out here are late-risers who come to
watch the Turkish market unfold and witness how peacefully
CURRY 36 gulls, swans and cruise boats can co-exist. On a good day, the
If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, French toast with fruit can come out looking like it’s auditioning
you’ll order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little for the Waldorf-Astoria’s buffet. The Mexican breakfast will
pale in comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, tide you over for two meals.QH‑5, Kottbusser Damm 104,
but you might earn an iota of respect from the hard- Neukölln, MU Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 30 693 56 49,
boiled Fraus who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin www.ankerklause.de. Open 10:00-04:00, Mon 16:00-
specialities you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables 04:00. €. TUNGB
are the fried burgers, Boulette.QF‑5, Mehringdamm 36,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, HOPPETOSSE
www.curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. €. S An elegant white ship moored along Treptow’s Arena
complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional
GLÜCK TO GO and international meals to go with good sunset views
This unusual fast-food restaurant was inspired by a trip to towards Oberbaumbrücke bridge, just upstream. For daytime
India’s Gujarat province and serves happiness to go: delicious visitors there’s drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit up on deck to
protein-rich vegetarian/vegan burgers, fries with ayurvedic catch the sea breeze.QI‑5, Eichenstraße 4, Treptow, MU
spices, and healthy juice concoctions; all home-made with Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03 40, www.arena-
organic and regionally sourced ingredients. The delicious berlin.de. Open 12:00-23:00. €-€€. NGBSW
facebook.com/InYourPocket December 2017 – January 2018 53
Kreuzberg
VAN LOON
Where better to eat fish than at this lovely restaurant Get the In Your Pocket
ship, moored in the peaceful Urbanhafen habour on the
Landwehrkanal: the downstairs lounge has large windows, City Essentials App
but the view’s better from the sundeck. There’s salmon,
herring and smoked fish specialities as well as a range of
special fish & chips. The daily menu has meat, vegetarian
and vegan meals too.QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 7, Kreuzberg, GORGONZOLA CLUB
MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 62 93, www.vanloon. An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest
de. Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. TENGBW carpaccio we’ve had, and with lovely seating in the
green outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas,
pizzas and other dishes are by all means reasonable,
ITALIAN and there are additional changing dinner options
+39 PIÙTRENTANOVE too. For after-dinner cocktails simply go next door to
Plus 39 is what you dial to reach Italy - but ringing won’t be the Würgeengel bar.QH‑4, Dresdener Straße 121,
necessary here as a corner of that country can be found in this Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 64 73,
cosy restaurant right opposite the Viktoriapark. Italian chefs www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
dish up great XXL pizza, fresh pasta, risotto, homemade bread 18:00 - 02:00. €. B
and other delicacies.QMöckernstraße 73a, Kreuzberg, tel.
+49 30 70 09 42 06, www.piu39.de. Open 11:30 - 00:00. OSTERIA N°1
Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture
CALIGARI has a fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon,
A charming Italian bistro in the awakening Schillerkiez cherry and olive trees. Classic regional cuisine is
neighbourhood of Neukölln, with freshly made pasta, prepared by cooks from different parts of Italy,
soups, salads and deserts. They’re planning Supper Club and everything is made fresh to order. Order a
nights too, in which all kinds of wonderful things could pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange
happen.QKienitzer Str. 110, Neukölln, tel. +49 30 52 64 sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in
98 41, www.caligariberlin.de. Open 18:00 - 23:00. town, too. Choose from six different lunch menus
from €7.QF‑5, Kreuzbergstraße 71, Kreuzberg,
CICCIOLINA MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www.
Dedicated to divas such as Jeff Koon’s porn star ex-wife La osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. B
Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits
adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious Italian
restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food, and a great JAPANESE
terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try the Strasburgo RICE UP
flammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard and Tirol bacon. A tiny onigiri kiosk on the platform of the U-Bahn
QH‑4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer station sells delicious organic bento box take-away
Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60, www.cicciolina-berlin.de. meals, consisting of nori seaweed, rice and various
Open 12:00 - 24:00. €-€€. TUNGBSW fillings: vegan, veg, fish or chicken. There’s coffee,
chai, lemonade and smoothies too. Also in Mitte,
WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLE at Friedrichstraße 114.QH‑5, Kottbusser Damm
Within a historic market hall (Schönleinstraße U-Bahn station), Neukölln, MU
building, the rustic Markthalle Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 151 50 10 13 88, www.rice-
restaurant is long and tall, with up.de. Open 07:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-19:00. Closed
wainscoting, simple wooden Sun. €. S
furniture and a bar that locals
belly up to. It’s a restaurant that BEER GARDENS
doesn’t let its looks carry it: the
kitchen takes pride in its nouvelle DAS EDELWEISS
takes on German and Austrian standards. The menu The goods platform of the old Görlitzer Bahnhof train
changes weekly, but count on Spätzle, Schweinebraten station now serves as a lovely deck-chaired terrace for the
(braised pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Edelweiss restaurant and café. There’s all-day breakfast,
Russian to American-style, and as late as 16:00. great German cuisine with seasonal and regional products,
After dinner, check if anything is going down in the drinks, and live Jazz sessions on Tuesday nights. It’s especially
Auster Club in the cellar.QH‑4, Pücklerstraße 34, well-positioned for people-watching; Görlitzer Park
Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617 attracts Berlin’s most varied crowd.QH‑5, Görlitzerstraße
55 02, www.weltrestaurant-markthalle.de. Open 1-3 (Görlitzer Park), Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof,
10:00 - 24:00. €€. B tel. +49 30 61 07 48 58, www.edelweiss36.com. Open
09:30-02:00. €€. TUEBW
54 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Kreuzberg
GOLGATHA while still being near the heart of Kreuzberg (and can you
The most gruesome end you’ll meet at this Biergarten at believe this area was once filled with rubble, and part of the
the southwest end of Viktoriapark is the sunrise. Those Wall’s death strip?). Pizza and snacks are served and they
watching their melanoma sit under the red umbrellas offer a choice of cocktails.QH‑4, Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte,
near the table-football and grill, while sunbathers MU Heinrich-Heine-Straße, tel. +49 157 88 94 70 91,
go to the rooftop for a view of the playground and www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €.
football field. DJ music begins most nights at 22:00 TUNGBSW
inside on the small dance floor.QF‑5, Katzbachstraße
(Viktoriapark), Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, CAFÉ RIX
tel. +49 30 785 24 53, www.golgatha-berlin.de. A fabulous café that’s completely worth the trek out to
Open from 10:00. €. TUBSW Berlin’s shabbiest and most multicultural neighbourhood.
Many entertainment halls were built in this part of town,
attracting thousands of Berliners at weekends. Rix is one of
BEER HOUSES the last remaining entertainment halls in the area, dating
DOLDEN MÄDEL BRAUGASTHAUS from 1880 and all gold twirls, high ceilings and big mirrors.
A fun little brewery bar named after hop flowers, with 20 It’s just perfect for sipping coffee and munching on cake,
craft beers on tap and many more great beers in bottles - or for a well-prepared meal. Combine it with a concert at
everything from Pilsener, IPA, Belgian beers and Trappist to the adjacent Heimathafen or a visit to Rixdorf’s old village
Bock. Order the full board for 5 samplers of their best beers. square and the lush Körnerpark.QKarl-Marx-Straße 141,
There’s also cider and wine, and the varied food menu lists Neukölln, MU Karl-Marx-Straße, tel. +49 30 686 90
meals and snacks from steak and schnitzel to vegetarian 20, www.caferix.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00
dishes.QMehringdamm 80, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 77 32 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TUNGBSW
62 13, info@doldenmaedel.de, www.doldenmaedel.de.
Open 11:30 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:30. CAFÉ SAROTTI-HÖFE
Lovely Kreuzberg café with a large terrace, a bistro-
restaurant serving snacks and meals, and a bar with beers
CAFÉS and cocktails. Drop by for coffee with a slice of cake from
BELLE ALLIANCE COFFEE the brunch buffet (choose from 30 varieties). At Sunday
Fresh, seasonal food cooked in a modern, contemporary brunchtime they switch on the chocolate fountain, filled
setting in Kreuzberg. The menu changes more or less every with Sarotti chocolate of course, as this building was once
day, and there will always be something to take your fancy. their factory.QF‑5, Mehringdamm 53-57, Kreuzberg,
Great coffee, cracking wines and an atmosphere as relaxed MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 60 03 16 80, www.cafe-
as they come. The team who run the place have done a sarottihoefe.de. Open 24hrs.
fantastic job in creating a venue that does Berlin dining
as it really ought to be.QF‑5, Merhingdamm 56, MU SALON SCHMÜCK
Merhingdamm, tel. +49 30 23 94 82 38. Open 10:00 - A crash-pad style neighbourhood café that looks like a
24:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PTVBSW time-warp from the 1970s with its funky furniture. The food
is fresh however, and you can dig into breakfast, lunch and
CAFÉ AM ENGELBECKEN fantastic home-made juice - just make your own selection
Opposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michael’s of fruit. Come evening and there are cocktails and DJs, and
church is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that was even the occasional living room concert.QI‑4, Skalitzer
once a canal. Hidden away at the reedy edge of the pond is Straße 80, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49
a sunny terrace café. View of the water and the rustling tall 30 69 00 47 75, www.salon-schmueck.de. Open 09:00-
green reeds makes this a peaceful respite from all things city 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-05:00. €. TNGBSW
Anzeige
There’s in your
a story pocketcorner
on every 2011.indd1 1 though you’ll need
in Berlin, and some trendy districts.Qtel. 15.01.2011
+49 30 686:58:28
30 26Uhr41,
a guide to hear it. It’s a huge, fascinating city and attractions www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets €15/12/5.
are fairly far-flung, so plan your itinerary well. If you’re here
for a limited amount of time, we highly recommend you CITY CIRCLE BUSES
join one of the walking or cycling tours to get your bearings. Several tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-off
double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours.
Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen
BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS languages. Kurfürstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are
BERLIN CITY TOUR the two main starting points, but you can get on and
Open-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights off at some 20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are
in about two hours; the green ones have live English Berliner Bären Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX
commentary; red ones have audioguides. Board at Sightseeing (www.berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus
Kurfürstendamm 14, the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor Verkehr Berlin (www.bvb.net).Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30,
and hop-on or hop-off as you like. There’s also a narrated www.berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets
‘Wall & Lifestyle’ tour taking in the main Wall sights €22/11. Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) €16,50/11.
BERLIN UNDERWORLDS You can visit bunkers from the Nazi era on the Dark
Worlds tour or on the Flaktower tour, take in civil defence
and nuclear fall-out shelters from the Cold War in the
Subways and Bunkers in the Cold War tour or hear the
stories of the people who tunnelled to freedom in the
Under the Berlin Wall tour.QF‑1, Brunnenstraße 105,
Wedding, MS/U Gesundbrunnen, tel. +49 30 49
91 05 17, www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Tickets are
available in the ticket- and bookshop at the south
entrance of Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station. Tickets
for the tours cost between €11 and €14 (with discount
€9 - €11), as of 2018, €12 - €15 (disc. €10 - €12).
Entrance to the Myth of Germania exhibition costs
€6/€5 (€3 if bought in combination with a tour).
EMBASSIES HOSPITALS
AUSTRALIA QG-3, Wallstraße 76-79, Mitte, MU BENJAMIN FRANKLIN CLINICAL CENTRE
Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80, QKlingsorstraße, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel.
www.australian-embassy.de. +49 30 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.fu-berlin.de.
Ackerstraße F/G‑2 Dorotheenstraße F‑3 Kl. Hamburger Straße F‑2 Motzstraße C/D‑4/5 Schönleinstraße H‑5
Adalbertstraße H‑4 Dresdener Straße G‑4 Kleiststraße D/E‑4 Mühlendamm G‑3 Schumannstraße F‑3
Admiralstraße G/H‑5 Dunckerstraße H‑1 Knaackstraße H‑2 Mühlenstraße H/I‑4 Seydelstraße F‑4
Albrechtstraße F‑3 Ebertstraße F‑3 Knesebeckstraße C‑4 Mulackstraße G‑2 Simon-Dach-Straße I‑4
Alexanderplatz G‑3 Engeldamm H‑4 Kochstraße F‑4 Museumsinsel F‑3 Skalitzer Straße G‑4/I‑4
Alexanderstraße G‑3 Erkelenzdamm F‑4 Kollwitzplatz H‑2 Muskauer Straße H‑4 Sophienstraße G‑2/3
Alexanderufer F‑2/3 Ernst-Reuter-Platz C‑3 Kollwitzstraße G/H‑2 Niederkirchnerstraße F‑4 Spandauer Damm A/B‑3
Alexandrinenstraße F‑4 Fasanenstraße C‑4/5 Konstanzer Straße B‑4/5 Niederwallstraße F‑3 Spandauer Straße G‑3
Alt-Moabit C‑3/E‑3 Fehrbelliner Straße G‑2 Köpenicker Straße H/I‑4 Nollendorfstraße D/E‑5 Sredzkistraße H‑2
Alte Jakobstraße F‑4 Fischerinsel G‑3 Kottbusser Damm H‑5 Oberbaumstraße I‑4 Stralauer Allee I‑4
Alte Schönhauser Straße G‑2 Französische Straße F‑3 Kottbusser Straße H‑5 Olivaer Platz B‑4 Stralauer Platz H‑4
Altonaer Straße D‑3 Friedensstraße H‑2/3 Krausnickstraße G‑3 Oranienburger Straße F/G‑2/3 Stralauer Straße G‑3
Am Friedrichshain H‑2 Friedrichstraße F‑3/4 Kreuzbergstraße F‑5 Oranienplatz F‑4 Straßburger Straße G‑2
Am Karlsbad F‑4 Gartenstraße F‑1/2 Kurfürstendamm A‑5/C‑4 Oranienstraße F/G‑4 Straße der Pariser Kommune I‑3/4
Am Kupfergraben F‑3 Gendarmenmarkt F‑3 Kurfürstenstraße D/E‑4 Otto-Braun-Straße G/H‑3 Straße des-17. Juni C/E‑3
Am Ostbahnhof H‑4 Georgenkirchstraße H‑2/3 Landsberger Allee H/I‑2 Otto-Suhr-Allee B/C‑3 Stresemannstraße F‑4
Anhalter Straße F‑4 Georgenstraße F‑3 Lausitzer Straße H‑4/5 Pappelallee G/H‑1 Südstern G‑5
Arndtstraße F‑5 Gertraudenstraße G‑3 Legiendamm H‑4 Pariser Platz F‑3 Tauentzienstraße D‑4
Augsburger Straße C/D‑4 Geschw.-Scholl-Straße F‑3 Leipziger Platz F‑4 Paul-Lincke-Ufer H‑5 Tieckstraße F‑2
Auguststraße F/G‑2 Gipsstraße G‑2 Leipziger Straße F/G‑4 Perleberger Straße D/E‑2 Tiergartenstraße D/E‑4
Axel-Springer-Straße F‑4 Gitschiner Straße F‑4 Leuschnerdamm H‑4 Platz der Vereinten Nationen H‑3 Torstraße F/G‑2
Barnimstraße H‑2/3 Glinkastraße F‑3 Lindenstraße F/G‑4 Platz vor dem Neuen Tor F‑2 Tucholsky-Straße F‑3
Baruther Straße F‑5 Gneisenaustraße F/G‑5 Linienstraße F/G‑2 Potsdamer Platz E‑4 Turmstraße C/D‑2
Bayerischer Platz D‑5 Görlitzer Straße H/I‑4/5 Lobeckstraße F‑4 Potsdamer Straße E‑4/5 Uhlandstraße C‑4/5
Bebelplatz F‑3 Görlitzer Ufer I‑5 Luisenstraße F‑2/3 Prenzlauer Allee H‑1/2 Unter den Linden F‑3
Behrenstraße F‑3 Gormannstraße G‑2 Lützowufer D/E‑4 Prinzenstraße F‑4 Urbanstraße G/H‑5
Belforter Straße G/H‑2 Greifswalder Straße H/I‑1/2 Manteuffelstraße H‑4/5 Pücklerstraße H‑4 Veteranenstraße G‑2
Bergmannstraße F/G‑5 Grolmannstraße C‑4 Marburger Straße D‑4 Puschkinallee I‑5 Voßstraße F‑4
Bernauer Straße F/G‑1/2 Großbeerenstraße F‑5 Mariannenplatz H‑4 Quedlinburger Straße B‑3 Wadzeckstraße G/H‑3
Bethaniendamm H‑4 Große Hamburger Straße G‑2/3 Marienstraße F‑3 Rathausstraße G‑3 Waldemarstraße H‑4
Beusselstraße C‑2 Gruner Straße G‑3 Markgrafenstraße F‑3/4 Reichenberger Straße G‑4/I‑5 Wallstraße F/G‑4
Bismarckstraße B/C‑3/4 Hallesches Ufer F‑4 Martin-Luther-Straße D‑4/6 Reichpietschufer E‑4 Warschauer Platz I‑4
Bleibtreustraße C‑4 Hardenbergplatz C‑4 Matthäikirchstraße E‑4 Reichstagufer F‑3 Warschauer Straße I‑3/4
Blücherstraße F/G‑5 Heidestraße E‑2 Mauerstraße F‑3/4 Reinhardtstraße F‑3 Wassertorplatz F‑4
Bodestraße F‑3 Heinrich-Heine-Straße F‑4 Maybachufer H‑5 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz G‑2 Weinbergsweg G‑2
Bötzowstraße H/I‑2 Heinrichplatz H‑4 Mehringdamm F‑5 Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße G‑2/3 Weinstraße H‑2/3
Brandenburger Tor F‑3 Hohenstaufenstraße D‑5 Mehringplatz F‑4 Rosenthaler Straße G‑2/3 Werderstraße F‑3
Breitscheidplatz C‑4 Immanuelkirchstraße H‑2 Meinekestraße C‑4 Rykestraße H‑2 Wiener Straße H/I‑4/5
Brückenstraße H‑3/4 Invalidenstraße E‑3/G‑2 Melchiorstraße H‑4 Saarbrücker Straße G‑2 Wilhelmstraße F‑3/4
Brunnenstraße F/G‑1/2 Johannisstraße F‑3 Metzer Straße G/H‑2 Savignyplatz C‑4 Winterfeldtplatz D‑5
Bülowstraße E‑4/5 John-Foster-Dulles-Allee E‑3 Mittelstraße F‑3 Schiffbauerdamm F‑3 Winterfeldtstraße D/E‑5
Bundesallee C‑4/6 Kaiserdamm A/B‑4 Möckernstraße F‑4/5 Schloßplatz F‑3 Wörther Straße G/H‑2
Charlottenstraße F‑3/4 Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee B/C‑2 Mohrenstraße F‑3 Schloßstraße B‑3 Yorckstraße E/F‑5
Chausseestraße F‑2 Kantstraße B/C‑4 Molkenmarkt G‑3 Schlüterstraße C‑4 Zimmerstraße F‑4
Choriner Straße G‑2 Karl-Liebknecht-Straße G‑3 Mollstraße H‑2/3 Schöneberger Straße F‑4 Zinnowitzer Straße F‑2
Christinenstraße G‑2 Karl-Marx-Allee G/H/I‑3 Mommsenstraße B/C‑4 Schöneberger Ufer E‑4 Zionskirchstraße G‑2
Danziger Straße G‑1/I‑2 Kastanienallee G‑2 Monbijoustraße F‑3 Schönhauser Allee G‑1/2 Zossener Straße F‑5
70
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Index
+39 piùtrentanove 54 Duke40 Kulturbrauerei49 Santiago48
Admiralspalast12 Dussmann36 KunstHalle35 Sarod's52
Aigner27 Einhorn40 Le Petit Royal 39 Savoy Berlin 43
Alexa Centre 36 El Dorado 41 Lino City Tours 59 Schall und Rauch 48
Alliiertenmuseum42 English Theatre Berlin 13 Little Big City 31 Schloss Britz 23
Alpenstueck25 Eschschloraque Rümschrümp Locanda40 Schloss Charlottenburg 42
Alt Berliner Biersalon 41 30 Lutter & Wegner 28 Schneeweiß44
Alte Nationalgalerie 32 Facil27 Lux22 Schnitzelei39
Alternative Berlin Tours 59 Feuerle Collection 56 Macondo45 Schöneberger Weltlaterne 38
Altes Museum 32 First Floor 39 Martin-Gropius-Bau56 Schwarzwaldstuben25
Altes Zollhaus 51 Fischers Fritz 28 Mauerpark49 Shakespeare & Sons 49
Ankerklause53 Fleischlust47 Maximilians25 Slow Travel Berlin Tours 59
Anna Blume 48 Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 49 Mein Haus am See 30 SO3657
April38 Französischer Dom 33 Memorial to the Murdered Soda Club 48
Astro-bar45 Freischwimmer57 Jews of Europe 34 Spectrum Science Centre 56
Aufsturz29 Friedrichstadt-Palast13 MeMu Menschen Museum 35 Sphere26
August Fengler 48 Führerbunker34 Metzer Eck 47 Spielbank Berlin 30
Austria52 Galander57 Milchbar57 Staatsoper im Schillertheater
Barcomi's Deli 29 Geburtstagsklub48 Mommsen-Eck41 12
Belle Alliance Coffee 55 Gedächtniskirche42 MS Schiffskontor 59 Ständige Vertretung 25
Bergmann Curry 53 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer Museum für Asiatische Kunst Stasi Prison 45
Berlin City Tour 58 35 43 Suksan38
Berliner Dom 33 Gemäldegalerie35 Museum für Film und Sushi Circle 29
Berliner Fernsehturm 31 Glory Duck 45 Fernsehen35 Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm
Berliner Unterwelten 58 Glück To Go 53 Museum für Naturkunde 35 48
Berlin Locals 59 Golgatha55 Mutter Hoppe 25 tausche Taschen 49
Black Box Cold War 34 Gorgonzola Club 54 Myer’s Hotel Berlin 46 Tempelhof Airport Terminal23
Blue Man Group 13 Grand Hyatt 36 Neues Museum 32 Tempelhofer Freiheit 23
Borchardt27 Green Door 41 Neue Synagoge 32 The Digital Eatery 29
Brecht Keller 27 Grenander Morning Glory 41 Neuköllner Opera (NO) 23 The Harp 42
Bröhan Museum 43 Grosz39 Nikolaiviertel32 Tiergarten43
Cabslam22 Grüner Salon 30 Nola's am Weinberg 28 Tipi am Kanzleramt 13
Café am Engelbecken 55 Gudrun Sjödén 36 Olympic Stadium 42 Topographie des Terrors 56
Café am Neuen See 41 Gugelhof47 Osteria N°1 54 Traube28
Café im Literaturhaus 41 Hamburger Bahnhof 35 Otito26 Union Jack 42
Cafe Kalwil 41 Hard Rock Cafe 38 Ottenthal38 Van Long 26
Café Rix 55 Haus am Checkpoint Charlie56 Pagode51 Van Loon 54
Café Sarotti-Höfe 55 Hefner42 Palace43 Viktoriapark56
Caligari 22, 54 Henne51 Panorama Café 26 Volkspark Friedrichshain 45
Christmas Eco-Market Honigmond & Garden Hotels Panoramapunkt33 VOX28
Sophienstrasse8 36 Paris-Moskau28 Wall Panorama 36
Cicciolina54 Hoppetosse53 Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz Watergate57
City Circle Buses 58 Hotel Sarotti-Höfe 57 36 Weihenstephaner25
C/O Berlin 43 House of Weekend 30 Patio28 Weinstein48
Cocolo29 InBerlin Tours 59 Pergamon Museum 32 Weltrestaurant Markthalle 54
Coda Dessert Bar 22 Isherwood's Neighbourhood Pizzeria i Due Forni 48 What do you fancy love? 41
Computerspielemuseum45 Tour59 Potsdamer Platz 32 Wild at Heart 57
Crack Bellmer 45 Jolly26 Quatsch Comedy Club 14 Wintergarten Variété 13
Curry 36 53 Jüdisches Museum Berlin 56 Reichstag33 Wohnzimmer48
Das Edelweiss 54 Junction Bar 57 Reingold30 Würgeengel57
Das Gift 23 Kaffee Burger 30 Reinhard's28 Yorckschlösschen57
Das Stue 43 Kamala26 Renger-Patzsch38 Yosoy Tapas-Bar 29
Der Mauerwinzer 29 Kartoffelpfanne51 Restaurant Schlossgarten 38 Zillemarkt38
Deutscher Dom 33 Kempinski Bristol 43 Restauration 1900 47 Zille-Stube25
Deutsches Currywurst Keule44 Rice Up 54 Zimmermeister Brunzel's
Museum34 Kilkenny Irish Pub 31 Riehmers53 Mietshaus49
Deutsches Historisches Kim Qui 52 Ritter Sport ChocoWorld 36 Zollpackhof28
Museum34 Kinnaree Thai 52 Roter Salon 30 Zum Nussbaum 26
Deutsches Technikmuseum56 Knese38 Rotisserie Weingrün 25 Zur Letzten Instanz 26
Diekmann39 Komische Oper 12 Sachiko Sushi 40 Zwiebelfisch42
Die Schule 47 Konnopke's Imbiß 47 Salon Schmück 55 Zwölf Apostel 40
Dolden Mädel Braugasthaus55 Konzerthaus Berlin 12 Sammlung Boros 36
Dressler40 Kookaburra Comedy Club 13 San Diego Steakhouse 45