KH4434-Kuliah 005 Waves Transformation 1718

2/11/2015
KH4434
KEJ AWAM MARITIM
LECTURE # 5
WAVES TRANSFORMATION
Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Faculty of Engineering & Built Environment 1
Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia
Contents KH4434
KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• Shoaling
• Wave refraction
• Wave diffraction
• Wave reflection

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Assumption – long crested wave KH4434

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Assumption – long crested wave KH4434

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Shoaling & Wave Refraction KH4434

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• When waves enter an area where the depth of the

bottom reaches half their wave length, the waves are
said to “feel bottom.” This means that the wave is no
longer traveling through the water unaltered, but is
entering intermediate water where changes in wave
length, speed, direction, and energy will occur.
• There will be NO change in period.
• These changes are known as shoaling and refraction.
• Shoaling affects the height of the waves, but not direction,

while refraction effects both. Both shoaling and refraction
result from a change in wave speed in shallow water.
Shoaling KH4434
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The shoaling effect is caused by two factors:
• The first factor is a result of the shortening of the wave length. Wave
length is shortened as the wave slows down and the crests move
closer together.
Since the energy between crests remains constant the wave height
must increase if this energy is to be carried in a shorter length of
water surface. Thus, waves become higher near shore than they were
in deep water. This is particularly true with swell since it has along
wavelength in deep water and travels fast. As the swell speed
decreases when approaching shore, the wave length shortens, and
along swell that was barely perceptible in deep water may reach a
height of several feet in shallow water.

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Shoaling & Wave Refraction KH4434

KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• The second factor in shoaling has an opposite effect (decreasing

wave height) and is due to the slowing down of the wave velocity until
it reaches the group velocity. As the group velocity represents the
speed that the energy of the wave is moving, the height of the
individual wave will decrease with its decreasing speed until the
wave and group velocity are equal.
The second factor predominates when the wave first feels bottom,
decreasing the wave height to about 90 percent of its deep water
height by the time the depth is one-sixth of the wave length.
Beyond that point, the effect of the decreased distance between crests
dominates so that the wave height increases to quite large values
close to shore.

Wave Refraction KH4434

KEJ AWAM MARITIM
When waves arrive from a direction that is perpendicular to a

straight beach, the wave crests will parallel the beach. If the waves are
arriving from a direction other than perpendicular or the beach is not
straight, the waves will bend, trying to conform to the bottom contours.
This bending of the waves is known as refraction and results from

the inshore portion of the wave having a slower speed than the portion
still in deep water. This refraction will cause a change in both height and
direction in shallow water.

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Shoaling KH4434
KEJ AWAM MARITIM

Wave Refraction- Idealised Plots of wave rays KH4434

KEJ AWAM MARITIM

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KEJ AWAM MARITIM

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• Exercise on Wave Refraction using template

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Wave Refraction KH4434

KEJ AWAM MARITIM
 g g
CA   tanh(k A d A )  tanh( k B d B )  C B
kA  
Wave Refraction- Snell’s Law KH4434

KEJ AWAM MARITIM
sin  sin  o

C Co

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Wave Refraction & Shoaling KH4434

KEJ AWAM MARITIM
C go bo
H1  H o  Ho Ks Kr
C g1 b1
1/ 4
1  sin 2  o 
Kr   2 
 1  sin 1 


KEJ AWAM MARITIM

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KEJ AWAM MARITIM

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Example 1
Given:
A wave 1 m high and 15 sec period in 500 m of water, with a plane,
sloping beach
Find:
Wave height H and angle q at water depths of 200, 100, 90, 80, 70,
60, 50, 40, 30, 20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6 and 4 m for deep water
wave angles of 0, 15 and 45 degrees
Notes: Check with : http://www.coastal.udel.edu/faculty/rad/

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KEJ AWAM MARITIM
WAVE DIFFRACTION

Belauan (Diffraction) Ombak KH4434

KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• Diffraction usually happens when waves encounter

surface-piercing obstacle, such as a breakwater or an
island.
• It would seem that on the lee side of the island, the water
would be perfectly calm; however it is not. The waves,
after passing obstacle, turn into the region behind the it
and carry wave energy and the wave crest into this so-
called 'shadow zone.'
• The turning of the waves into the sheltered region is due
to the changes in wave height (say along the crest) in the
same wave.
• If the sides of the island are sloping under the water, then
refraction would also be present.

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Wave Diffraction: KH4434

Waves passing a single structure KEJ AWAM MARITIM

Wave Refraction- Idealised Plots of wave rays KH4434

KEJ AWAM MARITIM

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KEJ AWAM MARITIM

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bintulu

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KEJ AWAM MARITIM

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KEJ AWAM MARITIM

Wave Diffraction:
KH4434
Waves passing a single structure KEJ AWAM MARITIM
60 degrees
H d  HiK 
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Wave Diffraction: Waves passing through a structure KH4434

gap KEJ AWAM MARITIM



Faculty of Engineering & Built Environment B/L=0.5 32
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φ=0
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φ=15


φ=30
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φ=45


φ=60
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φ=75
Example 2 KH4434
KEJ AWAM MARITIM
A train of 6 sec period, 2 m high waves is

approaching a breakwater at an angle q=60 degrees.
The water depth in the lee of the breakwater is 10
m. Find the wave height in the lee of the breakwater
at a point specified by b=30 degrees and r=100 m.
Calculate L  48.3m
Determine r/L  100/48.3 = 2.07
Using template  K’ = 0.28
Therefore H1 = 0.28x2 = 0.56 m diffracted wave

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KEJ AWAM MARITIM
WAVE REFLECTION
(Seiches and Resonance)

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2/11/2015

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Assumption – long crested wave KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Assumption – long crested wave KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Shoaling & Wave Refraction KH4434

• When waves enter an area where the depth of the

• There will be NO change in period.

• These changes are known as shoaling and refraction.

• Shoaling affects the height of the waves, but not direction,

The shoaling effect is caused by two factors:

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Shoaling & Wave Refraction KH4434

• The second factor in shoaling has an opposite effect (decreasing

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Refraction KH4434

When waves arrive from a direction that is perpendicular to a

This bending of the waves is known as refraction and results from

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Refraction- Idealised Plots of wave rays KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

• Exercise on Wave Refraction using template

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Refraction KH4434

Wave Refraction- Snell’s Law KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Refraction & Shoaling KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Refraction & Shoaling KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Refraction & Shoaling KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Notes: Check with : http://www.coastal.udel.edu/faculty/rad/

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Belauan (Diffraction) Ombak KH4434

• Diffraction usually happens when waves encounter

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Diffraction: KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Refraction- Idealised Plots of wave rays KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Diffraction: Waves passing through a structure KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Diffraction: Waves passing through a structure KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Diffraction: Waves passing through a structure KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Diffraction: Waves passing through a structure KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Diffraction: Waves passing through a structure KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Diffraction: Waves passing through a structure KH4434