V-Neck

Front

1. From highest shoulder point, go down 20cm towards Centre Front.

2. From highest shoulder point, go away 1cm, join to previous point at

Centre Front, cut away.

Back

1. Measure shoulder, mark, lower the neckline by 1cm.

2. Make horizontal line from neckline, and make square line.

3. Join the 2 points with curve ruler, cut out.

4. Check the curve.

5. Match front and back.

6. MARK EVERYTHING.

7. Make opening : 1. At side seam, down 1cm from arm hole and waist
line, mark zipper.

2. Do the same at the same corner at the back,

according to the front.
Boat
Front

1. From lower shoulder point mark 2,5cm up.

2. Neckline go down 1cm, make horizontal line.

3. Join the 2 points with curve ruler, cut out.

4. Check the curve.

Back

1. Measure 2,5cm.

2. From neck line go down 1cm. Make horizontal line.

3. Curve it, cut it out.

4. Mark everything.
Square
Front

1. From highest shoulder point, go down 20cm towards Centre Front.

2. From highest shoulder point, go away 5cm.

3. Make horizontal line at Centre Front then join it with the shoulder point.
Cut out.

Back

1. Mark the shoulder

2. From neck line go down 5cm, make horizontal line.

3. Join it together. Cut away.

U-Shape
Front

1. Go down 20cm to centre front, make horizontal line.

2. Mark 1cm away.

3. Join the 2 points in a curve.

4. Cut away.

Back

1. Copy V-neck’s back.

U-shape’s Shaped Facing

Front

1. Take 3cm from shoulder point, 5cm from centre front, make horizontal
line, join together.

2. Curve it as parallel a you can.

3. Erase the line to make it dotted.

4. Trace out the facing in dots, cut out, mark everything.

5. Face right to right.

Back

1. Take 3cm from shoulder point, 10cm from centre back, make
horizontal line, join together.
 2. Curve it

3. Erase the line to make dots.

4. Trace in dots, cut out, mark everything.

Scoop
Front

1. Go down 20cm to centre front, make horizontal line.

2. Go away 5cm from shoulder point.

3. Joint 2 points, make a curve.

Back

1. Match the shoulder.

2. From neck line go down 1cm, make horizontal line.

3. Join in a curve.
Peter Pan Collars
Peter pan with 2.5cm stand (Full Roll)

1. Trace less than half of back pattern. Place front pattern on traced copy
of back, touching the neckline and overlapping the shoulder tips 10cm.

2. Trace neckline and part of the center lines. Mark notch at tip.

3. A point will appear at shoulder/neck. Smooth it.

4. Extend center back neck by 0.25cm. Draw the neckline through the
point ending 0.5cm below centre front. (back will up, front will down,
so it’ll fall nicely)

5. Draw style collar parallel with the neckline, taking the width as 7cm.

6. Cut the collar from paper.

7. Mark notch at shoulder/neck.

8. Trace collar on fold on paper.

9. Mark centre back and shoulder notches at both outer edge and
neckline edge.

10. Cut 2 copies of it on the paper.

Peter pan with 1cm stand (Partial Roll)

 1. Trace less than half of back pattern. Place front pattern on traced copy
of back, touching the neckline and overlapping the shoulder tips 5cm.

2. Trace neckline and part of the center lines. Mark notch at tip.

3. A point will appear at shoulder/neck. Smooth it.

4. Extend center back neck by 0.25cm. Draw the neckline through the
point ending 0.5cm below centre front. (back will up, front will down,
so it’ll fall nicely)

5. Draw style collar parallel with the neckline, taking the width as 9cm.

6. Cut the collar from paper.

7. Mark notch at shoulder/neck.

8. Trace collar on fold on paper.

9. Mark centre back and shoulder notches at both outer edge and
neckline edge.

10. Cut 2 copies of it on the paper.

Peter pan with flat roll

1. Trace less than half of back pattern. Place front pattern on traced copy
of back, touching the neckline and overlapping the shoulder tips
1.5cm.

2. Trace neckline and part of the center lines. Mark notch at tip.

3. A point will appear at shoulder/neck. Smooth it.

4. Extend center back neck by 0.25cm. Draw the neckline through the
point ending 0.5cm below centre front. (back will up, front will down,
so it’ll fall nicely)

5. Draw style collar parallel with the neckline, taking the width as 12cm.

6. Cut the collar from paper.

7. Mark notch at shoulder/neck.

8. Trace collar on fold on paper.

 9. Mark centre back and shoulder notches at both outer edge and
neckline edge.

10. Cut 2 copies of it on the paper.

Mandarin Collar
Basic Mandarin
 1. Square a line in the center of the paper equal to the following
measurements:

A-B = 4cm (collar stand)

B-C = total back and front neck.

B-D = center back to shoulder measurement.

2. Square up 1.5cm from C. Mark and label E.

3. Draw a curved line from E to D, completing the neckline edge of collar.

4. Square a 4cm line at right angles to E-D. Label F.

5. Draw a line from A to F, parallel with B-D-E line.

6. Cut collar from paper.

7. Trace on fold. Draw grain line and notch centre back.

8. Complete the pattern and trace to make a duplicate copy of the collar
facing.

Mandarin with curved edges

1. After constructing the basic mandarin collar, bisect the angle at F (45
degree)

2. Make 1,25cm line towards collar until G.

3. Take the center of A-F, call it H

4. Join H,G,E, in a curve.

5. Trace on fold. Draw grain line and notch centre back.

6. Complete the pattern and trace to make a duplicate copy of the collar
facing.

Mandarin with wing collar

1. After constructing the basic mandarin collar, extend 3.5cm from F.

2. Join F-H with an inward curve.

3. Trace on fold. Draw grain line and notch centre back.

 4. Complete the pattern and trace to make a duplicate copy of the collar
facing.

Roll Collar
1. Modify the neckline in the following ways:

Front : go up by 0.3cm from CF

Go out by 0.5cm from highest shoulder point.

Back : Go out by 0.5cm from highest shoulder point.

2. Measure the back and front necklines.

3. AB: back neck measurement.

4. BC: front neck measurement.

5. AD: 7cm

6. DE: parallel line to AC. This also the fold line for the collar.

7. DF: 7cm

8. FG: Parallel line to DE

9. This collar is made on bias.

Fall shirt collar
1. Trace basic mandarin stand.

2. Square out 2.5cm extension from EF.

3. Draw a curved line at the edge of the stand, mark buttonhole on EF.

4. Trace the line AF and call it A’F’

5. A’G: 5cm (stand width + 1cm)

6. F’H: stand width + 1.5cm

7. Join GH in an inward slight curve.

8. Mark shoulder notches at I and J.

9. Divide GH in three equal parts, slash and spread them by 0.4cm each.

10. Place centre back on fold and cut from paper.

Frilled collar
1. Trace less than half of back pattern. Place front pattern on traced copy
of back, touching the neckline and overlapping the shoulder tips
1.5cm.

2. Mark a point on CF, making curved V-neckline at 20cm from highest

shoulder point. Trace the back and front necklines.

3. Smoothen the curve if necessary.

4. Cut out the flat collar taking 7cm from CB and shoulder, merging to the
point at CF.

5. Divide the collar into 7 sections.

6. Slash and spread the neckline with the distance from 2-3.5cm until
making a full circle.
 7. Trace round collar making a smooth line.

8. This makes only half collar.

9. Requires a back seam

10. Mark notch at shoulder point.

Cap Sleeve
Cap sleeve

1. Trim 2cm from cap height.

2. Go down by 7cm from the center of the sleeve.

3. Make notch at the side seam in armhole, then join with the 2cm.
 4. Measure the under sleeve length as 2.5cm

5. Trim 0.5cm from each side of the under seam.

6. Draw the curved hemline and cut it marking the notches at shoulder
point and front and back notches.

Short cap sleeve

1. From the center of the sleeve mark 5cm.

2. From the front and back under seam point, go up by 6cm and make
the curved hemline.

3. Mark the grain line, cut pattern.

Puff Sleeve
Fullness at hem
 1. Trace 5cm below bicep line. Cut the rest.

2. From the center of the sleeve, divide the sleeve into 3 equal parts on
either side.

3. Draw, slash and spread the line from hemline to cap line, separating
them by 5cm each.

4. Extend 5cm at center of the sleeve and blend curve line into under
seam.

5. Mark seam notches

6. Draw straight grain.

7. A sleeve band can be used to secure short sleeves.

Sleeve Band

For sleeves ending above elbow, use elbow measurement plus 1.5cm ease.
Width = 5cm. Ready width = 2.5cm.

Fullness at cap

1. Trace 5cm below bicep line. Cut the rest.

2. From the center of the sleeve, divide the sleeve into 3 equal parts on
either side.

3. Draw, slash and spread the line from cap line to hemline, separating
them by 5cm each.

4. Extend 5cm at center of the sleeve and blend curve line into under
seam.

5. Mark seam notches

6. Draw straight grain.

Fullness at hem and cap

1. Trace 5cm below bicep line. Cut the rest.

2. From the center of the sleeve, divide the sleeve into 3 equal parts on
either side.
 3. Draw, slash and spread the line from cap line to hemline (cut all off),
separating them by 5cm each.

4. Extend 5cm at center of the sleeve and blend curve line into under
seam.

5. Mark seam notches

6. Draw straight grain.

Flared (bell) sleeve

Elbow length flared sleeve

1. From bicep, go down 22,5cm.

2. From the center sleeve, mark to panel 4cm on either side.

3. From these 5 points, draw straight lines until hem line.

4. Slash and spread by 7cm

5. Trace pattern outline

6. Draw grain line.

Short flared sleeve

1. From bicep, go down 7,5cm.

2. From the center sleeve, mark to panel 4cm on either side.

3. From these 5 points, draw straight lines until hem line.

4. Slash and spread by 5cm

5. Trace pattern outline

6. Draw grain line.