Sepiplus 400 is a part of a new generation of "Hydro Swelling Droplet" (HSD) thickening emulsifiers.

Sepiplus 400
has great thickening capacity in the presence of electrolytes (NaCl, mineral water) and it thickens well in the presence
of solvents (ethanol, glycerin and glycols). It is stable over a wide pH range (pH 2.5 - 11). Sepiplus 400 emulsifies
and stabilizes up to 50% oil phase, whatever the nature of the oil, without added emulsifier, independently of the
viscosity.

Key benefits:

 Efficient use at low levels

 No neutralization
 No heating
 No clumping
 No static electrical charge

Formulating with Sepiplus 400

Sepiplus 400 is a ready-to-use liquid requiring no heat or neutralization to achieve thickening or emulsifying.
However, it is resistant to heat and high shear mixing, thereby offering a great deal of freedom in formulating.

 For Aqueous gels: Add Sepiplus 400 to the aqueous phase while agitating mechanically (stick blender,
hand or stationary mixer).
 For Cream gels: It is preferable to disperse Sepiplus 400 in the oily phase, then add water all at once while
agitating mechanically.
 For Hydroalcoholic gels: Prepare the aqueous gel with Sepiplus 400 first, then add the solvent (alcohol)
gradually with stirring.
 For Hot Process Emulsions: Disperse Sepiplus in the pre-heated oil phase (if necessary) or in the water
phase before emulsification. Mix until emulsified and continue to mix until cool. Alternate
method: Incorporate the Sepiplus 400 immediately after emulsification or during the cooling phase.

Some tips:

 Add electrolytes or dissolved active ingredients at the end of the process

 In particularly difficult cases, when the thickening capacity of Sepiplus 400 is insufficient, it is advisable to
form synergistic combinations with cellulose derivatives, xanthan gum, guar gum, vinyl polymers or other
polymers.

Concentrations

 For emulsions, when Sepiplus 400 is used as a thickener-stabilizer, its concentration can be from 0.2% -
3%, depending on the nature of the other ingredients in the formulation.
 In cream-gels, when Sepiplus 400 is used as the sole emulsifier, its concentration can be between 0.5 - 3%,
depending on the nature of the other ingredients in the formulation.
Recommended usage level: 0.5 - 3%

Appearance: Translucent, slightly viscous liquid

Color: White
Effective pH range: 5-7 (2% aqueous gel)
Stability: Stable between pH 2.5 - pH 11
HLB: Not applicable
INCI: Polyacrylate 13 (and) Polyisobutene (and) Polysorbate 20

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RENOVA® (tretinoin cream) 0.02% contains the active ingredient tretinoin in a

cream base. Tretinoin is a yellow to light-orange crystalline powder having a
characteristic floral odor. Tretinoin is soluble in dimethylsulfoxide, slightly soluble
in polyethylene glycol 400, octanol, and 100% ethanol. It is practically insoluble in
water and mineral oil, and it is insoluble in glycerin.

water 67.50%

glycerin 3.00%

avocado oil 15.00%

cocoa butter 5.00%

cetyl alcohol 3.00%

IPM 2.00%

sepiplus 400 3.00%

fragrance 1.00%

preservitive 0.005

Acne Treatment Cream

Posted: May 02, 2012 00:47 AM CDT

Application: Skin Care

This anti-acne cream is based on an oil-in-gel, in water. Skin soothing and anti-irritation properties are
combined with anti-acne and anti-bacterial effects from licorice root extract (containing licocalchone) and
biosol.

Phase A
Batyl Alcohol (and) Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride (and) Lecithin (and) Stearic Acid( Nikkol Nikkolipid 81S , Nikko 3.0%
Chemicals Co., Ltd.)
Cetyl Alcohol 0.5%
Dimethicone 0.3%
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil ( Nikkol Jojoba Oil S , Nikko
2.0%
Chemicals Co., Ltd.)
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate ( Nikkol CIO , Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) 3.0%
Triethylhexanoin ( Nikkol Trifat S-308 , Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) 10.0%
o-Cymen-5-ol ( Biosol , Osaka Kasei Co., Ltd.) 0.1%
Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Glyceryl Caprylate ( Nikkol Nikkoguard 88 , Nikko
0.4%
Chemicals Co., Ltd.)
Phase B
Phase B
Carbomer ( Carbopol 980 , Ruger Chemical Co.) 0.3%
Phase C
Water (aqua) 14.7%
Phase D
Glycerin 8.0%

Water (aqua) 42.34%

Phase E
Arginine 0.3%
Water (aqua) 5.0%
Phase F
Butylene Glycol 5.0%
Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract 0.01%
Phase G
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 0.05%
Water (aqua) 5.0%
Total 100.0%
Formula Procedure
Disperse B into C and mix until uniform to make a 2% aqueous solution. Heat BC and D to 80°C to
dissolve completely and add D to BC. Separately heat A to 80°C to dissolve completely. Also, separately
dissolve F completely at below 40°C and dissolve G completely at room temperature. Add G to F and
agitate to dissolve completely. Add A to BCD at 70°C while stirring with a homomixer (5,000 rpm, 5
min/300 g). Add E to ABCD while stirring with a paddle mixer. Add FG to ABCDE at below 50°C while
stirring with a paddle mixer. Cool batch to 35°C while stirring with a paddle mixer.