Chapter 3

MEASURING, CUTTING AND JOINING PIPES

Cast Iron Pipe

For so many years, cast iron pipes had been used for all types of plumbing installations. It was proven
good and durable material for house sewer, house drain, soil, waste and vent pipe on various types of
building

The use of cast iron pipes however, was limited by the Code to less than 25-storey high building where
constant vibration is present. Vibrations loosen the lead calk joint between the pipes causing unwanted
sag and water leak. Cast iron pipe is affected to some extent by corrosion due to chemical action in the
system that is impossible to control. The commercial length of cast iron pipe is 150 centimeters long
with various diameters ranging from 50 to 150 mm.

Cost is always associated with the kind of pipe to be used Thus, it is important to know the specific uses
of each type

Recommended Uses

1. The Standard Pipe is used for a well-fitted hub and spigot connections.

2 The Single Hub is recommended when the length of a pipe needed is more than 150 centimeters long

wherein cutting is not necessary

3. The Double Hub is preferred when a piece of pipe needed is shorter than 150 centimeters long. When

the pipe is cut, both ends has hub to serve as joint connector

4 The Hubless pipe is used in lieu of the single hub to do away with caulking of joints. It is cheaper and

easily connected using a neoprene rubber sleeves.

Measuring length of cast iron pipe

In measuring length, the end portion that will enter into a hub is added to the face length of the
effective distance.

Cutting and Connecting Pipes

The procedures in cutting cast iron pipes are as follows

1. A chalk mark is drawn around the pipe.

2. The pipe is laid on sand

3. With the use of hammer and cold chisel, the scored line around the pipe is struck gently at first round

then continue striking harder and harder all around until the pipe is cut or part off
Calking Joints

Calking joints of cast iron pipe is done through the following steps.

1. Make sure that the pipes to be joined are perfectly aligned with the spigot centered inside the bell.

2. Wrap the oakum around the spigot neck filling the space around the inner hub. With the use of a
yarning iron, drive the oakum into the bottom of the hub, then, compress firmly to make a solid bed
providing 20 to 25 mm clearance from the top of the bell.

3. After packing, the joint is sealed with lead monolithically poured around the inner hub at about 3mm
above the bell. Then packed against the hub by the calking iron tamping it firmly to make a watertight
seal.

Galvanized Steel Pipe

Working with galvanized steel pipe is somewhat difficult because of its rigidity and the threading
processes involved, plus the joining operations The face to face method is applied conveniently in
measuring the length for a connection. However, allowance for the thread that enter into the fitting
should be provided Working with galvanized steel pipe involve the following considerations

1 Direct connection

2. Measuring and cutting

3 Threading operations

4 Sizing of the pipes

Direct Connection

refers to the manner of planning the layout and re-routing of the pipes to reach the point of service. All
pipelines should be installed as short and direct as possible. The number of fittings and pipe cutting plus
the threading work can be reduced to the minimum required if the plumbing layout was planned
carefully

Measuring and Cutting. Errors committed in the measuring and cutting of pipes, may mean additional
pipes and fittings, cost of labor, and the risk of water leakage. The face to face methods of measuring
and cutting of pipe connection is considered the most reliable.

Cutting and Threading Operations. On cutting and threading operations, steel pipe should be held
rigidly with a proper holding tools. Cutting is done by using a 14-teeth per inch hacksaw blade applying
forward strokes at the rate of about one stroke per second. Remember that fast cutting will overheat
and break the blade
 After cutting, the burrs are removed from the inside edge of the pipe with files or reamers.
Threading of steel pipe entail a very tedious process. Hence, it is important for one to know before hand
the basic rules governing the threading operations enumerated as follows:

1. Never hold threaded parts with a wrench. It will surely damage the thread

2. Put two nuts on them, lock tightly, and continue the threading operations.

3. During the process of threading, apply motor oil regularly to protect both the threader and the thread
of the pipe

4. To ensure tight and rigid connections, the threads should be slightly tapered so that the turning of the

fitting will be harder the deeper you screwed

5. Provide the threaded portion of the pipe with a Teflon tape in a clockwise direction before turning the
--fitting joint to obtain a water-sealed connection

6. The use of ready made nipples ranging from 2 inches to 12 inches long was proven economical than
fabricating them on site. The amount of cutting and treading as well as the time of installing is reduced
substantially

Copper Pipe
Copper Pipe is classified into two types:

1. The Rigid type and

2. The Flexible type

Copper Pipe Working Procedures

1. In measuring length of a rigid or flexible copper pipe, the face to face method is also applied The
depth of the soldering hub is added to the clear face to face length of the pipe

2. Cutting of copper pipes with a suitable rotary tube cutter will give the best and satisfying result. In the
absence of a rotary tube cutter, the hacksaw blade with 24 teeth per inch is used on heavy pipes and the
32 teeth per inch for the thinner one.

3. Cutting is done through a gentle light forward stroke. After cutting, the burrs are removed inside the
pipe with a file or reamer

4. Copper pipes are bent slowly on a wide radius to avoid kinking. Bending a pipe is easily done with pipe
bending machine to produce a very satisfactory result. Another way of bending copper pipe is by using a
steel spring inserted inside the pipe to produce a smooth clean curve
Soldering Copper Pipe Joints
1. Clean thoroughly both ends of the pipe to a bright finish including the inside of the fittings with emery
clothe or fine sand paper.

2. Apply a tin coat of non-corrosive flux or soldering paste to all cleaned surface of the pipe and fittings.

3. Place the fitting up to the hub and rotate for several times until the flux is evenly spread

4. Wipe the excess flux around the fitting and solder in one operation only. With a propane torch, heat
the fitting uniformly around the pipe

5. Never allow the fluxed joint to stand for more than 3 hours before soldering

6 During the process of cooling, avoid disturbing the pipe or the fitting for it might weaken or break the

seal

7. Avoid soldering the pipe that contains water. Wrap other connections with wet rags in the same
fitting before soldering to avoid melting of the finished joints.

Plastic Pipes

Plastic pipe is a new concept in plumbing for all types of building. The simplest way of joining plastic
pipe is by cementing called Solvent Welding Solvent welding takes only about ¼ the time it takes to
assemble bell and spigot joints

Working with Plastic Pipes

1. Measure the face to face distance of the fittings to be connected. Add the engagement length before
cutting the pipe

2. Some plastic pipes can be cut with a sharp knife, but all can be cut with hacksaw or handsaw. A rotary
pipe cutter should not in any manner be used in cutting plastic pipes. Be sure to cut pipe ends square or
at right angle with the axis of the pipe. Work on one joint at a time. Solvent is very quick setting and
unforgiving of mistakes. Once an error is committed, the only remedy is to cut the pipe and have it
replaced

3.Be sure to cut pipe ends square or right angle

4. After cutting, remove the burrs inside the pipe, ream and clean the end portion of the pipe until
smooth to allow full contact with the fitting shoulder. Cle

the pipe end with Methyl Ethyl Keton (MEK) or simply Acetone. However, depending upon the type of
plastic being used, there are solvent that needs no cleaning of the pipe before its application.

5. Apply solvent cement liberally using non-synthetic brush to the shoulder fitting and butt end of the
pipe

6. Insert the pipe into the fitting and give it a quarter turn or ¼ turn. The span of time from the cement
application to the quarter turning should not be more than 30 seconds
7. Do not disturb the pipe for several minutes after the quarter turn, Wait for about 2 hours before
testing the line under pressure. Drying of the cement must be far enough advance from 15 to 20 hours
to permit use of the line.

8. In the process of bending, plastic pipe is packed flame torch or hot watter. Apply pressure gently and
gradually when the pipe is soft and ready for bending. Continue bending until the desired curvature of
the pipe is arrived at A metal spring for bending copper tube may be used

to prevent flattering of the pipe.

9. Correction or repair of lines may be done by cutting the pipe at a reasonable distance away from the
side of the fitting then connect with coupling or socket.

Determining a Distance with Offset Angle

It is sometimes necessary to offset a run of pipe around a light fixture, a post or other obstruction. An
offset can be made using 90 or 45° degrees’ elbows. The 45° is better because there is less friction and
therefore less pressure drop when 45° fittings are used. Likewise, it is very easy to calculate the length
of pipe needed for a 45° offset