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Geoforum 65 (2015) 125–133

Contents lists available at ScienceDirect

Geoforum
journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/geoforum

‘‘Will Weed for Food’’: The political economy of organic farm


volunteering in Hawai‘i
Mary Mostafanezhad a,⇑, Krisnawati Suryanata a, Saleh Azizi b, Nicole Milne a
a
Department of Geography, University of Hawai‘i at Manoa, 2424 Maile Way, Saunders Hall 446, Honolulu, HI 96822, United States
b
Department of Urban and Regional Planning, University of Hawai‘i at Manoa, 2424 Maile Way, Saunders Hall 107, Honolulu, HI 96822, United States

a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t

Article history: Organic farm volunteering programs facilitate opportunities for volunteer tourists to fulfill their desire
Received 24 March 2015 for authenticity and meaning through farm experience, while simultaneously meeting organic farmers’
Received in revised form 10 July 2015 need for affordable labor. We situate this presumably mutual partnership within the broader expansion
Accepted 26 July 2015
of market-based activism and the political economy of organic agriculture in Hawai’i. Drawing on
semi-structured interview and survey data from farm hosts and volunteers, we argue that while organic
farm volunteering offers a short term coping strategy for some organic farmers, the cultural logic and
Keywords:
rationale that propels these programs perpetuates the underlying labor problems that plague small
Organic farm volunteering
Market-based consumption
organic farms. As a result, they lack the capacity to ameliorate the structural challenges that participants
Political economy often set out to oppose. Without losing sight of its performative potential to discursively create space for
Volunteer tourism alternative economic formations, this article demonstrates the limitations of organic farm volunteering
Hawai’i when utilized as a form of civic participation to drive economic and socio-environmental change.
Ó 2015 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

1. Introduction hours to living in a breezy cottage, working a few hours a day,


taking part in daily yoga sessions and eating fresh produce out of
A December 2013 issue of the Hawaiian Airlines in-flight the fields’’ (Ganaden, 2014, p. 125–6).
Magazine, Hana Hou! featured the article, ‘‘Friend of the Farmer,’’ Programs like WWOOF offer new opportunities for farmers in
in which images of frayed Tibetan prayer flags, meditation circles, search of affordable labor and tourists in search of unique experi-
onsite yoga classes and farms with ‘‘names like Paradise, Dharma ences that tap into growing interests in organic agriculture and
and Heavenly’’ depict the World Wide Opportunities on Organic in more intimate and meaningful tourism encounters. Popular
Farms (WWOOF) farm volunteering experience in Hawai‘i media is overwhelmingly optimistic of the growth of WWOOF as
(Ganaden, 2014, p. 125). The focus on food consciousness as well a win–win exchange between farmers and tourists. A recent CNN
as alternative economic exchange, community development, and report, ‘‘WWOOF your Way Around the World!’’ describes
alternative lifestyles are described as widespread aspects of the WWOOF as ‘‘your ticket to an incredible farming experience in
practice. The characteristically 20-something, backpack toting, one of over 50 countries in the world’’ (Madden, 2010).
patchouli wearing—volunteer tourist may seem like an anomaly Organic farm volunteering emerges out of the broader organic
in the agricultural labor pool. Yet, many organic farmers in movement that attempts to encompass ‘‘alternative production
Hawai‘i and beyond now regularly depend on organic farm volun- technologies, the health and pure food crusades, the 1960s coun-
teering programs such as WWOOF to subsidize labor costs (Terry, terculture and modern environmentalism. . .[as well as] a more
2014). The WWOOF experience is arranged between the farmer radical interpretation of the industrialization critique’’ (Guthman,
and volunteer who barter 15–30 h of labor per week in exchange 2004a; Guthman, 2004b, p. 4). The practice has materialized in tan-
for food and shelter. Farm volunteers—colloquially known as dem with the proliferation of market-based activism such as the
WWOOFers—can participate in experiences that range ‘‘from purchase of fair trade coffees, chocolates, and teas. It also resonates
sleeping in a spartan tent, eating ramen noodles and laboring long with food movement campaigns, in which consumers are increas-
ingly encouraged to ‘‘know where their food comes from’’
⇑ Corresponding author. (Goodman, 2004). This form of activism tends to follow the four
E-mail addresses: mostafan@hawaii.edu (M. Mostafanezhad), krisnawa@hawaii.
pillars of the ideal neoliberal paradigm summarized by McCarthy
edu (K. Suryanata), azizi@hawaii.edu (S. Azizi), nmilne@hawaii.edu (N. Milne). (2006, p. 87 and 98): ‘‘(1) a faith that a self-regulating market will

http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.geoforum.2015.07.025
0016-7185/Ó 2015 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
126 M. Mostafanezhad et al. / Geoforum 65 (2015) 125–133

forge optimal social forms; (2) a focus on the individual as the pri- motivated by the ideals of alternative agriculture. Similarly, would
mary social and economic agent; (3) an overt hostility toward state be WWOOFers are drawn by the same imaginaries that belie the
intervention, particularly interventions aimed at regulating goods political–economic reality of Hawai‘i’s persistently struggling
and services; and (4) a reliance on civil society to redress market agrarian sector. While not all share these characteristics, they form
failures when they occur.’’ Yet, neoliberal paradigms rarely materi- the core demographics of WWOOF hosts and volunteers.
alize as neatly defined schemes, but rather as fluid, partial and Drawing on ethnographic and survey data collected among
incomplete hybrid constellations of material and ideological WWOOF farm hosts and volunteers on Oahu and Hawai‘i Island
expression (Duffy and Moore, 2010; Ferguson, 2010; Guthman, (known locally as ‘‘the Big Island’’), we contend that the logics
2008). and rationale that propel the WWOOF movement do not address
Farm volunteering programs such as WWOOF are illustrative of the underlying problems that have plagued small farms, especially
the creative spaces that are opening up in-between neoliberal cap- in Hawai‘i. Thus, we argue that while WWOOF provides a short
italism and economic alternatives. WWOOF is situated at intersec- term coping strategy for some organic farmers, it is not sufficient
tion, where activism to support alternative agriculture is now to sustain a robust organic industry in a state where agriculture
integrated into new forms of touristic-consumer experience. This – conventional and organic – continues to face structural disadvan-
broader expansion of the ‘‘experience economy’’ (Pine and tages. We then examine emerging trends toward farm oriented
Gilmore, 1999) provides space for consumer-cum-volunteer tour- volunteerism and consider how they are limited by obstacles sim-
ists to expand their knowledge of organic agriculture, create new ilar to related forms of market-based activism such as alternative
relationships with like-minded others (e.g. farmers and other consumption, where responsibility for agricultural reform is left
WWOOFers) and ostensibly participate in socio-environmental at the hands of the individual consumer-cum-volunteer tourist.
movements centered on organic food and lifestyle consumption. The article proceeds in the following way: first, we examine
It is in this cultural–economic climate that WWOOF and similar WWOOF as an expression of the backlash against contemporary
farm volunteering programs have expanded over the past decade. agro-food regimes, especially among middle and upper class food
We utilize a political economy approach to highlight the struc- conscious urban and suburban youth. This backlash has led to
tural contradictions of organic farm volunteering and its limita- emerging trends in popular culture that emphasize ‘‘back to the
tions to facilitate the realization of its participants’ land’’ strategies for living authentically, which materialize in new
socio-environmental and economic goals. Political economy is a forms of alternative tourism. Second, we examine the structural
useful analytical lens through which scholars have examined the challenges of organic farming, focusing in particular on questions
growing complexity of contemporary agri-food geography in a of labor and mechanisms to capture the organic premium. The
globalized economy (e.g. McMichael, 1994; Goodman and Watts, combination of volunteer tourists’ desires for authentic experi-
1997), processes behind technological change and the accumula- ences through farming and organic farmers’ needs to reduce their
tion of power by agro-industrial capital (e.g. Goodman et al., labor costs creates a logical and presumably mutual partnership
1987a,b; Kloppenburg, 1988 [2005], and how racial politics have in programs such as WWOOF. We then provide a case study and
structured the labor problems in agriculture (e.g. Thomas, 1992; analysis of WWOOF on Oahu and the Big Island to demonstrate
Wells, 1996). More recently, geographers have critically analyzed the contradictions of adopting a market-based movement such as
the neoliberalization of agro-food activism, highlighting the con- volunteer tourism to address enduring labor problems in
tradictions of practices that seek to enact changes through individ- Hawai‘i’s agricultural sector. We conclude with a consideration of
ual purchasing or consumption decision (e.g. Bryant and Goodman, some of the limits of our critique in light of recent work on diverse
2004; Lipschutz and Rowe, 2005; Morgan, 2010). Political economy economies that argue for a more nuanced appreciation of
is also instructive in illuminating the structural challenges of non-capitalist mode of production and exchange
organic farming (Guthman, 2004a; Guthman, 2004b), and in ana- (Gibson-Graham, 2008; Hwang, 2013).
lyzing agrarian changes in Hawaii (Suryanata, 2002).
Recent work in economic geography (Gibson-Graham, 2006) 2. The culture and politics of organic farm volunteering
cautions that the performative effect of political economy analysis
could discourage advocates of alternatives to capitalist economic Buying fair trade chocolate to support Farmer John’s family in
forms thus closing down the range of economic possibilities. Costa Rica or spending a week in Thailand volunteering at a local
They call on scholars to examine hidden and alternative economic orphanage to ‘‘save’’ the children are now common consumer
activities, and challenge them to resist evaluating community experiences in the Global North. Bryant and Goodman (2004) note
experiments like WWOOF as unviable due to their dependence how consumption has become the new activism, while
on non-market relations. Instead, they emphasize the need to Gibson-Graham (2006) argue that a new political imaginary is
‘‘study their strategies of survival, support their efforts to learn remapping political terrain where boundaries between ‘‘global
from their experience, and help them find ways of changing what and local, revolution and reform, opposition and experiment, insti-
they wish to change’’ (Gibson-Graham, 2008, p. 615). In this article tutional and individual transformation’’ are increasingly blurred
we attend to this call through our examination of WWOOF as a cul- (Gibson-Graham, 2006, p. 1). Related trends in the Global North
tural–economic enterprise in which alternative tourism articulates materialize in what Whatmore refers to as hybrid geographies that
with alternative agriculture to generate new actors in Hawai‘i’s include the expansion of other forms of volunteer tourism, com-
agrarian landscape. We address the different ways WWOOF can munity farming in (sub)urban settings, as well as the expansion
contribute to the collective well-being, while simultaneously not of socio-environmental movements that work to break down the
losing sight of the inherent tensions that threaten WWOOF’s discursive separation of nature and society (Whatmore, 2006,
continuance. Whatmore, 2002).
Hawaii’s tropical climate and volcanic soils have long evoked In this cultural as well as political–economic context, key con-
images of paradise which have supported and are reproduced by cerns around environmental conservation and social (in)justice
the tourism industry. Combined with growing trends toward food are frequently implicated in market-based approaches to activism
consciousness, they produce agrarian imaginaries that inspire that have materialized as, for example, alternative, fair and
would-be farmers – many of whom relocated from the U.S. main- green consumer products (Bryant and Goodman, 2004; Carrier,
land – to engage in organic agriculture. Thus, many of Hawaii’s 2010; Guthman, 2008). The focus on the individual consumer is
organic farmers are first generation farmers who are primarily seen to obscure the structural disadvantages that perpetuate
M. Mostafanezhad et al. / Geoforum 65 (2015) 125–133 127

environmental injustices. For this reason, Roff argues that the 3. The labor question and organic production
adoption of this market-based logic only empowers ‘‘the (super)-
market, not the state (and by extension voting citizens), as the ulti- Today, independent farmers are frequently subjected to simple
mate arbiter of socio-environmental quality, but in doing so they reproduction squeezes over which they do not have control.
accept the ideologies of competitive advantage and free market Industrial appropriation of production processes (Goodman et al.,
rationality, concepts that have led to disastrous agro-ecological 1987) has left farmers increasingly dependent on purchased inputs
problems’’ (Roff, 2007, p. 514). and financial capital. This is further exacerbated in areas subject to
Meanwhile, the search for more ‘‘authentic’’ experiences in the effects of real-estate pressure on land values such as California
tourism—an intangible commodity based on the consumption of and Hawai‘i, where the cost of fixed capital is high (Guthman,
experience—has been on the rise for more than two decades 2004a; Guthman, 2004b; Suryanata, 2002). Meanwhile, global pro-
(MacCannell, 1989; MacCannell, 2011; Cohen, 1988; Cohen, duction chains organized by major agro-food companies have led
2012). Tourists often evaluate the authenticity of their experience to depressed prices and falling farm income.
by the degree of intimacy and thereby more meaningful tourism Squeezed on both ends of production, most farms seek to
encounters with previously unknown others (Conran, 2006). This increase their profitability by lowering labor costs. Small farms
cultural trend now converges in volunteer programs such as sometimes depend on unpaid labor from family members, but a
WWOOF (Baillie Smith and Laurie, 2011; Simpson, 2005; majority choose to recruit low cost labor that takes advantage of
Ganaden, 2014). Tourists can experience—most often for the first the persistent inequality in race, gender, and citizenship in agricul-
time in their lives—‘‘authentic’’ farm life where they eat, sleep, tural production (Friedland et al., 1981; Mitchell, 1996; Thomas,
and work on an organic farm. Thus, the consumption of tangible 1992). The strategy depends on successful lobbying for public pro-
commodities such as chocolate, tea and raw honey, is comple- grams and other legislation that periodically promote and sanction
mented by intangible tourism experiences that reflect the core val- the importation of unskilled labor. Wells (1996) argues that
ues espoused by the consumer (Cohen and Cohen, 2012; Mowforth labor-intensive operations such as strawberry farming succeed in
and Munt, 2009). lessening the cost-price squeeze because they take advantage of
A primarily middle–upper class practice (Fullagar et al., 2012; the lower cost of variable capital (labor) relative to high cost of
Deville, 2011; Mosedale, 2009), WWOOF is illustrative of the fixed capital (land and machinery).
broader expansion of experiential and socially conscious tourism In Hawai‘i, successive importation of workers from China, Japan,
experiences such as volunteer tourism—now the fastest growing Portugal, Korea, and the Philippines formed the labor force during
niche tourism market in the world (Mostafanezhad, 2014). the plantation era. The disciplining of Hawai‘i’s plantation laborers
Volunteer tourism experiences are often characterized by a focus was achieved by maintaining a hierarchical plantation structure
on ‘‘other’’ faraway places. In a 2013 TEDxBerkeley talk on and ethnic segregation (Takaki, 1995; Okamura, 2008). When
‘‘(Un)knowing Poverty’’, Ananya Roy describes how her students Hawai‘i became a state in 1959 the plantations had to abide by fed-
at the University of California, Berkeley often share in the neolib- eral laws. Union organization and civil rights movements made
eral desire to change the world. Echoing Massey’s arguments on exploitative means of labor control neither acceptable nor legal.
‘‘spatially distant neighbors’’ (Massey, 2005; Massey, 2004), she Yet, ‘‘the labor question’’—how to recruit and mobilize labor in
describes how the socially conscious millennial generation might ways that would allow both the farm and the workers to reproduce
‘‘want to volunteer in the slums in India, but squirm at the encoun- themselves—remains unanswered. Indeed, two high profile cases
ter with homeless panhandlers at home.’’ In a similar way, the on trafficking and illegal recruitment of labor in 2009/2010 threw
WWOOFers’ farm experience is also removed from their lived exis- the spotlight onto the desperation of farmers in Hawai‘i for afford-
tences, often of suburban or urban middle–upper class life. The able labor (Downes, 2010). These cases involved more than 400
possibility of a safe retreat if farming becomes uncomfortable is workers who were brought to the U.S. to work on multiple farms,
always there for the farm volunteer tourist, and hence the experi- including more than a dozen farms in Hawai‘i.
ence is more of a temporary sojourn than an ongoing commitment In order to survive economically, small farmers everywhere are
tied to one’s livelihood or home community. While WWOOF volun- compelled to employ strategies that add value to their products,
teers are able to accumulate farming skills, the overwhelming such as organic production. Organic farmers expect to receive a
majority of participants return home without taking advantage of price premium from consumers who are willing to pay additional
their newly acquired knowledge (Ganaden, 2014). The WWOOF costs for the social and environmental values embedded in the
experience is therefore more clearly focused on a search for mean- products. While this promise held true in the early stage of the
ing and experience rather than a search for livelihood. organic food industry, the price premium has not been universally
Scholars have observed that food and eating experiences are sig- sustained. A USDA study on organic prices for 18 fruits and 19 veg-
nificant sites where cultural and identity politics are played out etables using 2005 data found that the organic premium varied
(Guthman, 2003, Watson and Caldwell, 2005). Proponents of local greatly and was less than 30% for most items (Lin et al., 2008).
food movements encourage consumers to ‘‘know your farmer’’ as As the market for organic products grows, large organic producers
a way to increase awareness of the agro-food system, as well as saturate the market and erode the premium value. Small indepen-
to join a community of likeminded consumers. Farmers’ markets dent organic farmers must develop and nurture their market
exemplify this tendency in the widespread focus on buying directly niches through community-supported agriculture, networking
from farmers. Farm volunteering programs such as WWOOF with high-end chefs, or growing specialty crops to increase farm
provide further opportunities to intimately know the farmers and revenue (Guthman, 2004a; Guthman, 2004b).
their ways of producing food – enhancing the legitimacy of their A combination of high production costs and global competition
awareness (Smithers and Joseph, 2010). While WWOOF offers an have resulted in a steady decline of Hawaii’s agricultural sector. For
alternative approach to engaging in sustainable organic agriculture, more than a century, agriculture in Hawai‘i was dominated by
as argued below, it is embedded in the same logic as market-based plantation agriculture growing a few commodities such as sugar-
activism where the structural challenges are often not only cane, pineapples, and macadamia nuts. Non-plantation farms
left intact, but perpetuated (Bryant and Goodman, 2004). In the fol- growing diversified crops began in the 1990s, and only a segment
lowing section we examine long-standing issues that confront of them were focused on producing food for local consumption
organic farming, especially in Hawai‘i. (Suryanata, 2002). Contemporary organic farming is relatively
128 M. Mostafanezhad et al. / Geoforum 65 (2015) 125–133

recent in Hawai‘i. As food consciousness grew across the state, with large farms and dominant ‘modern’ agricultural practices’’
organic farming began to take root. Although the Hawai‘i Organic (Yamamoto and Engelsted, 2014, p. 264). Thus, Hawai‘i is seen by
Farming Association (HOFA) was founded in 1993, it took another many as an ideal destination for WWOOF volunteers, where they
decade before locally grown organic products became commonly may realize their desire for meaningful experiences and learn
available in the marketplace. However, by that time the products about organic food production in an idyllic tropical setting.
of large-scale organic farms on the continental U.S. had penetrated
the organic market in Hawai‘i, hampering organic farms efforts to
4.1. Research methods
capture price premiums right from the start. After the initial
growth in the late 1990s, the organic farm sector has virtually stag-
Research for this article includes three separate phases of inves-
nated since 2002, representing less than one percent of the state’s
tigation between 2012 and 2014. The first set of data was collected
agricultural value (US Census Bureau, 2002, 2012).
in November 2012 through an online questionnaire using Qualtrics
Organic farming is generally more labor intensive, both in field
software. The questionnaire was sent to all (approximately 300)
operation and in record keeping and management. The labor ques-
registered farm hosts on the WWOOF Hawai‘i website. We
tion is therefore even more acute in organic agriculture. While
received 45 responses from the online survey. The questionnaire
some small farms could rely on extended family networks to meet
included descriptive demographic questions as well as
their labor needs, access to non-household labor is critical to those
open-ended questions such as farm hosts’ motivation to host
that wish to grow and develop commercially. Getz et al. (2008)
WWOOFers as well as the costs and benefits of hosting
reveal the hidden tension between labor and organic agriculture
WWOOFers.
and how growing organic does not always translate to fair labor
The second set of data was gathered in December 2012 and
practices. Wages in organic farms are comparable to those in con-
January 2013 on Oahu and the Big Island and includes
ventional farms, with large farms more likely to provide above
semi-structured interviews with 14 farm hosts and two additional
average wages and fringe benefits than smaller operations. While
farms that do not host volunteers. Respondents were chosen using
workers in organic farms have reduced exposure to agricultural
snowball sampling where research collaborators recommended
chemicals, their risk to other occupational hazards caused by stoop
and provided contact information for additional participants
labor may be higher. They argue that the rise of organics ought to
(Bernard, 2011, 2012). The interviews were conversational in style
provide opportunities to address the labor question in agriculture
and were conducted face-to-face with the exception of one phone
as well as assure that workers receive a ‘‘living wage’’ sufficient
interview. Interviews were arranged by telephone and all
to support their respective family with dignity and comfort (Getz
face-to-face interviews were conducted on the farm. Interviews
et al., 2008).
were conducted in a private area where the researchers and farm
A growing number of farmers have turned to tourism related
hosts were the only individuals present. All interviews were digi-
ventures as a way to supplement increasingly marginal incomes
tally recorded and later transcribed for accuracy. The transcripts
from farm production. Farmstays, farm tours, bed and breakfast,
were coded for recurrent themes. These themes were extracted
boutique products, farmers’ markets, and roadside stands are
from the transcripts to develop an interpretive analysis of the find-
now commonplace among small organic farmers (Phillip et al.,
ings. The farms surveyed in this phase of the study range from
2010; Sharpley, 2006). For example, following economic restruc-
semi-commercial (including farm-to-table) to hobby farms where
turing in New Zealand in the 1980s, tourism was identified as a
income generation is not the primary objective of farming.
viable alternative for counter-balancing diminishing agricultural
Several farms specialized in specialty crops such as tea, coffee,
production and services, population decline, and the general eco-
and kava. Farm sizes ranged from 1 acre to 200 acres with the aver-
nomic stresses experienced in many rural areas. Indeed,
age farm approximately 11 acres in size. Some farmers owned their
McIntosh and Campbell (2001, p. 111) argue that ‘‘WWOOF is
land, while others were on leaseholds from the state or private
essentially a tourism venture that has been established in New
land owners. About three quarters of the farms began hosting vol-
Zealand to compensate for deficiencies in income.’’ Thus, while
unteers within the past six years. Two-thirds of the farmers
many farm hosts cite social and cultural reasons for participation
revealed that farming was not their primary source of income.
in WWOOF, economic motivations is unequivocally central to the
On average, most farmers host three to four WWOOFers at one
experience.
time, although these numbers range between one and 20. The
average WWOOFer stayed on the farm for two months, while dura-
tion varied from two weeks to five years.
4. WWOOF in Hawai‘i
The third set of data focus on the volunteers’ perspectives and
was collected in 2013 and 2014. Thirty-four WWOOFers on the
Originally referred to as ‘‘Working Weekends on Organic
farms that participated in phase two agreed to fill questionnaires
Farms’’, WWOOF was founded in the early 1970s as an exchange
that asked WWOOFers to indicate and describe their background,
between farmers and urban dwellers who sought a unique leisure
motivations to participate, and future plans. A subset of 19 volun-
experience of rural living in the United Kingdom. Today the
teers also answered open-ended questions on their ideals and
WWOOF network exists in more than 100 countries (Choo and
reflected on their experience. All names in this article are pseudo-
Jamal, 2009; Mosedale, 2009; WWOOF USA, 2014). According to
nyms to protect the privacy of our research collaborators.
the program administrator at WWOOF Hawai‘i, in 2014 there were
approximately 300 registered farms, 200 of which actively hosted
WWOOFers, and between 2500 and 3000 people who participated 5. ‘‘We’re Grown up Hippies’’: Farm hosts’ perspectives
in the program (Ziegler, 2015, personal communication).
Considering that the U.S. Census of Agriculture in 2012 counted In a recent Hana Hou! Hawaiian Airlines Magazine article, a
only 184 certified organic farms in the state, not every host farm WWOOF farm host on Hawai‘i Island explains: ‘‘We’re grown-up
was certified organic. hippies, and this is the lifestyle we’ve always wanted. . .We
Hawai‘i’s popularity as a WWOOF destination dovetails with couldn’t live any other way’’. This sentiment is widely shared by
recent findings that WWOOF farms tend to be located ‘‘in high the WWOOF farm hosts in this research. Our data indicates that
environmental/scenic quality locations and ‘bohemian’ cultural the most likely WWOOF farm host in Hawai‘i is a first time farmer
settings, but few in conventional farm regions, especially those from the U.S. mainland with less than ten years of farming
M. Mostafanezhad et al. / Geoforum 65 (2015) 125–133 129

experience. They form a core of the small organic farming sector in quality products do well in this market niche, most small organic
the state. While not all are formally certified ‘‘organic,’’ farmers in farms struggle and cannot cope with the high costs of farming.
this study describe themselves as proponents of alternative agri- Furthermore, a number of farmers perceived that government
culture, and view organic farming as an expression of their social involvement has only further weakened their position. As
ideals. This echoes Guthman’s observation that first-generation Guthman (Guthman, 2004a; Guthman, 2004b, page 517) points
organic farmers identify most strongly with the notion of organic out, from the late 1970s until the early 1990s the cultural politics
agriculture as a social movement (2004, p. 57). of organic agriculture deterred many conventional growers in
Cultural geographers have called our attention to the impor- California from converting to organic, therefore protecting organic
tance of narrative in environmental networks. For example, farmers from competition. The establishment of the national
Lejano et al. (2013, p. 2) contend that stories or narratives ‘‘create Organic Foods Production Act of 1990 paved the way for
the glue that binds people together. . .providing them with a sense business-oriented (as opposed to countercultural) certification
of history, common ground, and future, thus enabling them to per- and the number of certified organic operations has since grown
sist even in the context of resistance.’’ Small organic farmers in our considerably. The entry of large growers into the organic market
survey share a perspective that emphasizes the importance of has eroded the price premium attached to organic – a phenomenon
developing a practical, field-based body of knowledge; as well as that occurs nationwide including in Hawai‘i.
their collective responsibility to develop and circulate knowledge Additionally, many of the small organic farmers found that their
of alternative agricultural production. Hosting WWOOFers comple- ability to receive organic labeling (and the price premium) hinged
ments this narrative as it provides opportunities for farm hosts to on their capacity to comply with the rules and standards as set by
participate in the cultural and educational aspects of alternative the federal regulations. Indeed, the U.S. Census of Agriculture in
agricultural production. For example, more than half of the farm 2012 counted just 184 certified organic farms in the state, far lower
hosts who responded to our survey expressed that mentoring than the number of registered WWOOF farms. Our samples reflect
young people, sharing knowledge, and ‘‘seeing some of them go this tendency, as only a small fraction of the farmers interviewed in
out into the world and make a difference with what they learned this study were certified organic. The high level of documentation
here’’ as the most satisfying intangible benefit of hosting volun- and recordkeeping involved in acquiring and maintaining certifica-
teers. In this way the cultural logic that underlies this community tion puts extra pressure on an already overburdened workforce.
transcend the transactional labor arrangement between farm hosts One farmer on the Big Island expressed his frustration: ‘‘You get
and volunteers. For example, Peter from Hawai‘i Island explained: punished for being an organic farmer. . .you have to keep a daily
‘‘I have WWOOFers for two reasons; one of them is I need them to record of everything you buy, where you buy it and when you
do work. . .; the second reason is that I want allies. I want people use it. Basically, you’ve got to be a bookkeeper.’’ Another farmer
who have my back. . . In other words, I want people where I don’t similarly expressed his disappointment: ‘‘A lot of the regulations
have to breathe down their neck and where I know they have require a small farmer to pull off the same amount of red tape as
the interests of the farm at heart . . . [they’re] an extension of my a multi-million dollar farming company.’’
family. . . and I do the same thing for them.’’ Unable to capture the price premium, some farms seek to sup-
Gerry, another farm host from the Big Island further comments plement their revenue through piecemeal grants, foundation sup-
on how he relates to WWOOFers who, as he explains, ‘‘are follow- port, and other types of soft money. For these kinds of assistance,
ing the steps of the hippies that I knew of [from the 1960s]. The the farm often needs to be a registered non-profit and contribute
WWOOFers that come to his farm are often real peaceful and to other aspects of the community such as education. Indeed,
dreadlocked. . .They are like hippies [but] in a lot more modern three of the farms that we visited were certified non-profits,
style.’’ Gerry’s sentiments were echoed by James, also from the which allowed them access to crucial non-farm income streams.
Big Island who explained how this kind of lifestyle is particularly For example, James explicates: ‘‘Part of what has helped us is that
made possible in Hawai‘i: ‘‘Hawaii is a place where it’s possible we started out non-profit in 2003. . .we got money from USDA to
to be poor . . . to live under a guitar [and] bum a ride to go pick build a hen house three years ago at the value of $20,000. . .[we
papayas once every two weeks to get you enough money to do then received a] county research development [grant] for back-
your laundry at the laundromat. . . You can unplug from the system yard chickens at the value of $4600 and a couple of $1000
for goodness sake.’’ These sentiments are widely shared among the grants.’’ While the availability of small grants has been helpful
farm host community in Hawai‘i and are frequently used to explain to some farmers, others feel disenfranchised by grant making
their motivations for participating in WWOOF. institutions. For example, Peter, a farm host on the Big Island
explained to us: ‘‘Anytime we try to apply for a grant or anything,
5.1. Challenges and coping strategies the only people who get the grants are the grant writers that go
to college to learn and the big corporations and the so called
The farm hosts interviewed for this research participated in var- non-profits.’’
ious business models to meet their farming and lifestyle needs. Like the widespread turn to rural and farm tourism, WWOOF
Almost all sold fruits and vegetables at local farmers’ markets, farm hosts have similarly tapped into the tourism market. James
retail stores, and restaurants. Several farms participated in from the Big Island explained that the cost-price squeeze prompted
Community-Supported Agriculture (CSA). Two of the farmers had him to diversify his business plan. Price competition forced him to
a bed and breakfast on the farm that WWOOFers helped operate. give up selling his products to wholesalers. He also no longer sold
Other farms raised funds from friends, family, as well as at farmers markets because the limited revenue did not justify the
crowd-sourcing methods for particular projects such as developing time commitment. Struggling to make profit, he turned to hosting
aquaculture. All farms were constantly refining their products and visitors and volunteers as a way to cope: ‘‘. . .to tell the honest truth
farming techniques to increase their revenues. probably 80% of what we produce gets consumed on farm. Our lar-
Research participants consider the price premium attached to gest market for our farm produce is our interns and our guests who
organic products as critical to compensate the high costs of farm- actually come here to have the farm experience on the farm. Their
ing in Hawai‘i. However, Page et al. (2007) report on a number of fee is paying for the food . . . [and] they are also learning to produce
‘‘typical’’ organic farm ventures and show differentiation among and process.’’ In James’s case, the farm’s priority is not to produce,
organic farms on the Big Island with regard to their ability to cap- but to facilitate the generation of income from on-farm agritourism
ture the premium. While farms that consistently produce high activities. His strategy is not unique; another farmer, also from the
130 M. Mostafanezhad et al. / Geoforum 65 (2015) 125–133

Big Island explained how it makes more economic sense to use the Our research indicates that volunteers tend to view WWOOFing
products of his farm operation to host visitors than to sell: ‘‘. . .we as much more than an economic exchange. As one farm volunteer
do the real thing here, we grow pineapples and citrus and avocados remarked, it is ‘‘about providing the experience of meeting new
and everything. . .I got enough food here to probably feed 30 people people, sharing beliefs, and enjoying each other’s presence.’’ Jack,
a day for a long time.’’ Thus, labor recruitment is a key motivation a WWOOFer on Oahu, elaborated: ‘‘. . .WWOOFing is a magical
for WWOOF farm hosts who have a genuine need for affordable experience. Of course, it is very temporary and there is no secure
labor to keep their farms viable. outcome of making any profit. But that is not the point of
A few of the farms sell their products at farmers market. WWOOFing.’’ Mark, another volunteer on Oahu remarked: ‘‘It is
Farmers’ markets allow farmers to sell their often unpredictable the collective vision of striving for a better world through farming
quantity and variability of products. Farmers receive personal feed- that makes the WWOOFing program so special, and why it makes
back and appreciative comments directly from the consumers, it so memorable for me.’’ Furthermore, the new community that
which reinforces their goals and practice of organic agriculture. the WWOOFer enters on the farm is often conceptualized as a sur-
Farmers’ markets also help farmers to gain exposure as chefs, retail rogate ‘‘family’’. For example, Jody complimented the farm host on
and wholesale buyers, food writers, and others often visit farmers’ her farm for his ability to create a familial atmosphere: ‘‘[the farm
markets to discover new farms and agricultural products. host] created a family and treated us all as equals, we all had a lot
WWOOFers can bring energy and new ideas that help farmers of responsibility on the farm and he trusted us with each task.’’
unfamiliar with the scene to participate in farmers’ markets. For In addition to creating new social bonds on the farm, there is a
example, farmer Jack from Hawai‘i Island recalled that with the widespread interest among WWOOFers in meeting ‘‘like minded’’
help of several WWOOFers, he was able to sell his produce at the people. Becky, for example, commented: ‘‘I got what I expected
farmers market in Waimea: ‘‘. . .they bought a pop-up tent and it and had an amazing traveling experience. . . Everybody was very
was great, whatever cash we make over there we split.’’ Another friendly and I met similarly minded people.’’ Tom, another young
farmer remarked: ‘‘They have a great outlook on life and help bring WWOOFer explained that he was prepared to work hard in order
our products to the farmers market.’’ to establish a meaningful relationship: ‘‘Sometimes the work was
Farmers in this study invariably agreed that organic farming is hard and my back or hands would be sore, and sometimes the
hard, labor-intensive work. For example, Gerry from the Big work was easy and I couldn’t have been more relaxed. Either
Island remarked that farmers must be ‘‘on’’ all the time and attend way I always thought that both parties got their money’s worth.’’
to a variety of issues. Unlike the U.S. mainland, farmers in Hawai‘i Andrea added: ‘‘I don’t mind working extra hours once in a while
do not have ‘‘off-seasons’’ as their crops grow year round. As new- because I receive many things from the farm [referring to the
comers to Hawai‘i they have not yet established deep connections way the staff treats her].’’
with the local community and hence lack access to the local labor Conversely, not feeling part of a community of likeminded
force. Conscious of these challenges, Peter explained: ‘‘. . .the farm- counterparts or, as Fred, a WWOOFer on Oahu put it, ‘‘good vibes’’
ers that are successful on this island. . . are usually [successful] from the farm hosts, was seen as a reason to leave the farm. Jenny,
because they have this huge extended family and everyone’s work- for example, explained how she was seeking a more ‘‘family like’’
ing together for the good of the family. But as a small farmer, to go experience which she did not find: ‘‘Part of the reason I wanted
out and try to hire people, it’s hard to find anybody that’s going to to live and work on a farm was to experience living in a close knit
work for less than $10 an hour.’’ community. . . I think I missed out on that.’’ She further explained
Whereas farms on the U.S. mainland have access to a large that at least five other volunteers had left the farm because ‘‘we
migrant labor force, Hawai‘i’s geographic isolation makes it more often felt that we were there only for our labor.’’ She explained
challenging for the industry to tap into low-wage labor pools. how she understood that the farmer was under economic pressure,
Consequently, farms in Hawai‘i must seek alternative strategies but nevertheless perceived this focus on farm economics to have
to recruit labor. Migrant laborers in Hawai‘i have recently found corrupted her WWOOF experience.
inroads into some farming industries, such as Hawai‘i Island’s
Kona coffee and dairy operations, and larger vegetable operations 6.1. Ongoing tensions
on Oahu, but they are not as prevalent as on the U.S. mainland.
Peter, a Big Island farmer further highlighted the critical role of vol- WWOOFers are conscious of farmers’ need to make profit but
unteers to his farm operation: ‘‘WWOOFers are really the central are often uncertain about how to bridge this goal with their expec-
part of my existence; I wouldn’t know what to do [without them] tations. All volunteers expressed that learning to farm organically
because we are not making enough money to hire full time or even was the reason they joined WWOOF, but some did not appreciate
half time employees.’’ For farmers such as Peter, WWOOF is a strat- being asked to do mundane tasks or activities such as helping with
egy to cope with the relatively high cost of farm labor, which in daily chores—cooking dinner, washing dishes, and sweeping the
2013 averaged more than $14 per hour (Hawaii Agricultural floor – that in their perception ‘‘have nothing to do with farming.’’
Labor, 2013). In this way, WWOOF can represent a significant Robert, for example, remarked: ‘‘I would have liked to learn more
financial advantage for small organic farmers and in many cases about agriculture and why we did what we did. As a WWOOFer,
determine their economic viability. I felt like we did a lot of rote tasks and repetitive labor.’’ Another
volunteer comments how the farm she worked at lacked the capac-
ity to train WWOOFers, and focused more on farm economics than
6. ‘‘Laboring for a Cause’’: Farm volunteers’ perspectives on volunteers’ experience: ‘‘. . .while the farm talks about growing
people, it uses them for free labor and holds them hostage from
Volunteers who participate in the WWOOF program come from being able to do anything about it. You are expected to work
a range of backgrounds. The administrator of WWOOF Hawai‘i full-time, leaving no time for other activities or learning
explained how most WWOOFers are from the U.S., Canada and development.’’
Europe with a limited number from Japan and Australia. While Farm hosts are well aware of this tenuous relationship. A vast
most WWOOFers in Hawai‘i are between 18 and 24 years of age, majority of the farm hosts appreciate the volunteered labor and
the range extends to well past 60 years of age as many recent retir- acknowledge how, as one farm host put it, ‘‘without the labor of
ees are increasingly jumping onto the WWOOF bandwagon WWOOFers, it would be very difficult to survive’’. Many also noted
(Ziegler, 2015, personal communication). the loss of privacy and added anxiety of supervising inexperienced
M. Mostafanezhad et al. / Geoforum 65 (2015) 125–133 131

youths who are often in need of intensive training and supervision. between volunteer tourists and their host communities and orga-
Annie, a WWOOFer on Oahu remarked how she understood the nizations (Cousins et al., 2009; Crossley, 2012; Gray and
farmer’s position, and acknowledged that some WWOOF volun- Campbell, 2007; Guttentag, 2009; Sin, 2010).
teers are not good at farming: ‘‘Green Farm is already running at
a deficit and needs to make a profit. If I were the farmer, I would
choose [workers] with more farming experience.’’ She summed 7. Beyond political economy?
up this underlying tension by saying: ‘‘To put it simply, a farm can’t
expect newbie farmers who are just learning to till soil to work at The political economy approach is limited by its inability to
the same pace as an experienced farmer.’’ account for the experiences and relative successes of what
In other cases, the farmer-volunteer relationship was strained Gibson-Graham refer to as ‘‘diverse economies’’ – the growing
because of poor communication and what the WWOOFers per- number of alternative, non-capitalist ‘‘economic transactions, labor
ceived as unclear expectations of them. One WWOOFer, describes practices and economic organizations that contribute to social
confusion about what they needed to do: ‘‘. . . [One time] we were well-being worldwide’’ (Gibson-Graham, 2008, p. 615). WWOOF
expected to pick five pounds of only the best-looking baby greens represents community initiatives that are not exclusively governed
for Farm Fresh restaurant. [But] our initial round of harvesting was by capitalist economic perspectives. They are enmeshed in the cul-
not good enough, so we had to go back and do it again.’’ Another tural politics of alternative lifestyles that seem to reflect, at least in
volunteer expressed his disappointment that their daily living con- part, a desire to opt out of the capitalist market altogether. Yet
ditions did not match what he had in mind when signing up for farmers in this study were most clearly motivated to host
WWOOF. He explained: ‘‘I expected that we would eat food that WWOOFers because of their need for labor, even if this motivation
we grew, but the garden was over harvested, and we were mainly is not overtly expressed.
given processed Costco food.’’ Additionally, Leo, a WWOOFer from High input costs, limited economies of scale, and market com-
Oahu explained how he left his first WWOOF farm because of the petition has steadily eroded the profit margins of small farms, pro-
farm host’s inability to organize the workday: ‘‘I realized that I viding them with insufficient returns to viably support farm
was not discovering the island, that I spent much of the time work- workers or pay themselves living wages. Farmers are pressured
ing or in dead hours.’’ to find alternative subsidization strategies that sometimes fall out-
This is not to say that WWOOFers were always uncomfortable side of the norms of conventional or even organic agriculture pro-
with the unclear expectations as several WWOOFers explained duction. Indeed, the farmers in this study invariably agreed that
that they were willing to do whatever was asked of them. More their farm and livelihood would not be viable without the help of
importantly, volunteers understand that this work arrangement WWOOFers. Hired labor was in most instances not financially fea-
is temporary – making the burden or disappointing condition sible and there was far too much work to do on the farm without
acceptable. For example, Chris explains how: ‘‘For me, help. Thus, for many farmers, WWOOFers help fill this critical
WWOOFing should not be a vacation. I’m there to experience the gap in a significant way. As a result, WWOOF has become a coping
life of a farmer, if only for a few months.’’ Frank, another volunteer strategy that allows some small organic farmers to maintain their
further explains: ‘‘. . .Small farms don’t have enough money to pay organic farming lifestyle. Thus, during the early stage of farm
for labor. This is where farm volunteers come in. . .. If you end up development, organic farm volunteering can be a win–win
stuck here and feel like you can’t get out, you’re an indentured ser- strategy.
vant not far from a slave.’’ Yet, when farms seek to become profitable and expand their
From a farmer’s point of view, however, the rapid turnovers of businesses, the expectations of the volunteered laborers and farm
volunteer labor added to the stress of farming. Candice, a farmer hosts begin to contradict each other for several critical reasons.
on the Big Island points out that ‘‘volunteer labor works well when While agricultural labor turnover is notoriously porous, with vol-
we still need to develop the farm. Once business is up and running, unteered labor, this is especially the case. The two more economi-
they are not dependable enough.’’ Thus, the temporary nature of cally successful farmers we interviewed shy away from using
volunteers’ commitment becomes an obstacle in enacting sus- volunteer labor because of the limited compatibility of WWOOF
tained change in the labor regime. Additionally, farm hosts pay with commercial farming. David, a farmer from Oahu attributed
personal costs such as the loss of privacy. In explaining why he his farm’s success to the committed, paid workforce that is dedi-
chose not to host volunteers, Tom—a successful organic farmer cated to the daily operations of the farm. He has maintained a
on the Big Island—explains: ‘‘at the end of the day, I want to say stable workforce with very low turnover by paying them higher
goodbye to my workers.’’ wages and good benefits. David can manage to give his workers
Our study illustrates an inherent contradiction in the WWOOF a living wage because he sells his products to high-end restaurants
initiative, in which volunteers’ expectation to become part of a and captures a higher price. He explained to us how: ‘‘Farming is
farm ‘‘family’’ and participate in culturally meaningful experiences the easy part. . .you have to make sure that [product and service]
is in conflict with the farmers’ need for cheap and dependable quality is consistently high, and you need a dependable workforce
laborers. Additionally, if the farm host is seen as prioritizing profits to do that.’’ Instead of depending on short-term volunteer labor, he
over social connection, they are blamed for shunning the values of advocates professional internship programs that do not attempt to
the WWOOF network. For example, Marty explained: ‘‘I think we mix ‘‘work and play’’ as implied in volunteer tourism programs
worked too many hours at Green Farms. We started every day at such as WWOOF. Tom, another economically successful farmer
6.30 a.m. . . . [by the time] we finished around 6 p.m., the day from the Big Island argues: ‘‘If you want a reliable, skilled labor
was almost finished. It would be better if we have ‘‘real work force, it’s better to work with the local population’’.
hours’’ like they did at Happy Farm, [so] the WWOOFers would Professionalizing agriculture by creating mid-level positions and
enjoy half of the day on the beach or visiting the island.’’ As a con- an experienced work crew requires employees that will remain
sequence, WWOOFers find less ‘‘profit driven’’ farms as more in Hawai‘i. Volunteer laborers, ‘‘tend to be here for the interim,
attractive places to volunteer. While some of these challenges are but what we want to create is a stable workforce, and I don’t see
unique to Hawaii, the tensions we identified here are emblematic [volunteers] as conducive to a successful business strategy.’’
of WWOOF and other forms of volunteer tourism where differ- Thus, as David and Tom’s comments indicate, while WWOOF can
ences in communication, goals and expectations can create tension be a useful coping strategy for some small organic farmers, as
132 M. Mostafanezhad et al. / Geoforum 65 (2015) 125–133

farms develop into business enterprises, the farmer’s goal of the establishment of small organic farms, especially among first
affordable and reliable labor begins to contradict with the volun- generation farmers. As some farm hosts acknowledge, their farms
teer’s goal of meaningful experience. might have not survived without WWOOF labor. While these
Our study indicates that while farm hosts and volunteers seem small, struggling farms may not add up substantively in the agri-
to idealize the cultural bonds created in WWOOF, ultimately their cultural economy of the state, their continued presence provides
relationships are based on economic rationale and are transitory. a performative effect (cf. Gibson-Graham, 2008) critical in fueling
This is in part, because WWOOFers eventually leave the farm the discourse of alternative agriculture, which is key to the ways
(and most often, Hawai‘i), and most farm hosts aspire to become many citizens of Hawai‘i re-imagine the agro-food system.
a successful business with a stable workforce that is competitive
in the marketplace. The temporary nature of this relationship is a
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