OK, here's how I've gone about it...

Digikey Parts list:

Part Digikey PN Price

Electret Capsule P9925-ND 1.86
100pF Hi Freq Capacitor 1001PCHT-ND 0.78 (Pack of 10, only need 1)
1.5uF DC Bypass Cap 495-3519-ND 1.40
2.2K Load/Gain Resistor OD222JE-ND 0.42
XLR Connector SC1003-ND 5.68
Battery Connector 2242K-ND 0.98

1 -Trim the big cap leads down so the the body of the cap will just clear the rubber
boot of the XLR connector when you solder one end to XLR connector contact no 2.
Should be about 1/2 an inch on each end.

2 - Using attached drawing, as a guide, solder the resistor and the small capacitor
to one end of the big capacitor. None of these parts have polarity, so doesn't
matter which end is which. Fold the small cap and the resistor up against the body
of the big cap.

3 - Slip a 3/4"-1" piece of shrink wrap tubing (Radio Shack) over the red lead of the
batter connector. You may have to split the red from the black a bit to make extra
room. Solder the red lead to the free end of the resistor. Make your connection up
close to the body of the resistor. Trim any left over resistor lead. Slide the shrink
wrap tubing down over the solder joint and shrink into place with a hair dryer.
You'll have to get the hair dryer right down on it to activate the shrink wrap.
Careful not to burn yourself or the table underneath.

4 - Slip a piece of shrink wrap over the remaining end of the big cap lead. Should
be long enough to reach the solder joint where the resistor and small cap are
attached and still leave a little of the big cap lead showing. Now solder that tip of
the big cap lead to the positive mic pad. I do it 90 degrees. It is very important that
the big cap lead does not touch the metal can that makes up the body of the mic
element. That would short out the mic and you'll get no signal.

5 - Almost done. Solder a 6" piece of black wire to the negative contact of the mic
element. Carefully shave away a short section the jacket of the wire at the spot
where the free end of the small cap lines up and solder the cap lead to the wire. As
above you want to make this connection close to the body of the cap.

6 - Slip a 1" piece of shrink wrap on the black lead of the battery contact. Solder
the black lead to the same spot that you just soldered the capacitor to the black
wire. Slide the shrink wrap down to cover the joint and the capacitor and shrink in
place with hair dryer.

7 - Dissassemle the XLR connector. Slip a piece of shrink wrap over the big cap lead
that isn't attached to mic. Solder to pin 2 of the xlr connector. Trim the black wire
and strip the end so that it long enough to solder to pin 3 and then continue over to
pin 1. Now reassember the XLR connector. You'll have to cut the rubber boot quite
a bit to get it to fit, but that's ok. Just slit it down the side and trim away rubber
until it will wrap around the big cap and squeeze down into the connector body.
You're going to wrap it with tape or really big shrink wrap anyway so it doesn't
have to be perfect.

8 - Roll on the black tape to firm everything up. Leave the battery connector
dangling.

9 - Once it looks nice at tidy, snap in a 9V battery and tape it to side of the
connector.

10 - Plug and see how it sounds.

Hmm - I have a drawing but I can't figure out how to attach it. All of the above will
be hard (impossible) to understand without it.

I need to find some place on line to upload it. I'll do that and write back later.

Best regards,
J