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British Journal of Dermatology 2001; 145: 258±263.

Sensitive skin: an epidemiological study


C.M.WILLIS, S.SHAW, O.DE LACHARRIEÁ RE,* M.BAVEREL,² L.REICHE, R.JOURDAIN,*
P.BASTIEN* AND J.D.WILKINSON
Department of Dermatology, Amersham Hospital, Amersham, Bucks HP7 0JD, U.K.
*L'OreÂal Research, Life Science, Prospective Clinical Research, Centre Charles Zviak, Clichy, France
²L'OreÂal Research, Applied Research, Centre Eugene Schuller, Clichy, France

Accepted for publication 28 March 2001

Summary Background There is a growing awareness that some individuals exhibit heightened skin sensitivity,
particularly on the face, and have a high incidence of adverse reactions to cosmetics and toiletries.
Objectives To carry out an epidemiological study to assess the prevalence of sensitive skin and
cosmetic-related adverse events in a U.K. population, and to examine possible factors that may be
associated with sensitive skin.
Methods Self-assessment questionnaires were sent out to 3300 women and 500 men, randomly
selected, who were over the age of 18 years and lived within a 10-mile radius of High Wycombe
(Bucks.). Fifty non-responder women were also questioned by telephone to ensure that the postal
responders were representative of the population as a whole.
Results The response rates were 62% for women and 52% for men, with the incidence of self-
reported skin sensitivity being 51´4% and 38´2%, respectively. Ten per cent of women and 5´8% of
men described themselves as having very sensitive skin. Fifty-seven per cent of women and 31´4% of
men had experienced an adverse reaction to a personal product at some stage in their lives, with
23% of women and 13´8% of men having had a problem in the last 12 months. Among the women,
symptoms of cosmetic-induced subjective sensory skin discomfort (burning, stinging, itching etc.)
occurred more commonly in the sensitive skin cohort (53%) than in those who regarded themselves
as non-sensitive (17%). An atopic diathesis in women did not appear to be a predictive factor for
sensitive skin, the incidence of self-perceived sensitive skin being equivalent for atopics (49%) and
non-atopics (51%). Furthermore, some 34% of atopic women described themselves as being non-
sensitive. Nevertheless, the incidence of atopy was higher among the women in the sensitive skin
group (49%) than among those in the non-sensitive group (27%). Dry skin and a predilection for
blushing/flushing were associated factors for sensitive skin.
Conclusions Our survey indicates that sensitive facial skin is a common problem for women and
men in the U.K. and points to the need for the development of personal products designed for this
skin phenotype.
Key words: atopy, cosmetics, epidemiology, sensitive skin

The concept of `sensitive skin' is one that is widely more subjective neurosensory forms of discomfort such
appreciated by consumers and manufacturers of as stinging, burning, itching, tightness and smarting.1±3
personal products, and is becoming increasingly Essentially a self-diagnosed condition, the level and
recognized by dermatologists. Based on our current nature of symptoms needed to produce the self-
understanding of the condition, we would define perception of sensitivity are difficult to quantify, but
sensitive skin as being that which exhibits a reduced will almost certainly be highly variable between
tolerance to frequent or prolonged use of cosmetics and individuals. In 1991, Mills and Berger4 attempted to
toiletries, with symptoms ranging from visible signs of categorize sensitive skin phenotypes, but acknowledged
irritation such as erythema and scaling, through to that, at present, we have little understanding as to why
Correspondence: Dr Carolyn M.Willis. some people appear to have sensitive skin and/or react
E-mail: carolynwillis@sbnhst.ftech.co.uk adversely to cosmetics, while others do not. Certainly,

258 q 2001 British Association of Dermatologists


SENSITIVE SKIN 259

some pre-existing skin conditions do appear to pre- electoral register, with assistance in the design,
dispose to sensitive skin, atopic eczema being arguably posting and subsequent computer scanning of returned
the best known.3,4 questionnaires being given by a local market research
Despite the significance of sensitive skin, particularly company. Fifty randomly selected women who failed to
to the manufacturers of personal products, little return their questionnaires (`non-responders') were
epidemiological evidence exists with respect to its surveyed by telephone interview some 6 weeks later,
prevalence. The limited data available suggest that using the same questionnaire.
adverse reactions to personal products are relatively
common, epidemiological studies from the U.K. and
the Netherlands, respectively, reporting 1- and 5-year Statistical methods
prevalence figures of about 12%.5,6 Therefore, in order
to assess the scale of the problem more accurately and In the analysis of the data obtained, basic frequencies
to improve our understanding of the factors that may for men and women were calculated. The results for
be associated with sensitive skin, we undertook an a range of characteristics in those women who
epidemiological study within the Amersham/High classified themselves as having sensitive skin were
Wycombe (Bucks., U.K.) local population. The then compared with those who felt they did not
approach adopted was that of a postal self-assessment have sensitive skin. Subsequently, the relationship
questionnaire sent out to individuals randomly selected between sensitive skin and atopy in the female
from the electoral register. Both men and women were population was examined in more detail. The influence
targeted, with a variety of questions being asked about of age on skin sensitivity could not be assessed, as our
skin and scalp sensitivity, as well as history of atopy and local ethics committee would not permit the inclusion of a
other characteristics, which may relate to sensitive skin. specific age-related question in the postal questionnaire.
The Value test (V-test) was the method of choice to
determine statistical significance. This test is used as
Subjects and methods a statistical criterion to measure the significance
between percentages (qualitative variables) or means
Survey
(quantitative variables) of two populations.7 The
After receiving approval from the Wycombe Local criterion is derived from the hypergeometric distribution
Research Ethics Committee, a questionnaire was posted that measures the discrepancy between percentages or
to 3300 women and 500 men over the age of 18 years means as a number of SDs of a Gaussian distribution.
who lived within a 10-mile radius of High Wycombe. Variables with V-tests of more than 2´0 are judged
All subjects were randomly selected from the local statistically significant at the 5% level (non-adjusted)

Figure 1. Bar chart showing the frequencies


with which the responding populations of
men and women exhibited characteristics
associated with reactive skin and scalp.

q 2001 British Association of Dermatologists, British Journal of Dermatology, 145, 258±263


260 C.M.WILLIS et al.

Figure 2. Bar chart showing the frequencies


of positive responses by male and female
responders to questions concerning the
prevalence of adverse reactions to personal
products and incidence of subjective sensory
discomfort.

Table 1. Comparison between female sensitive skin subpopulation (those who responded `yes' to the question: `Do you regard yourself as having
sensitive skin?') and female non-sensitive skin subpopulation (those who responded `no') with respect to different variables, the latter being
arranged in descending order of statistical significance, as determined by the Value test (V-test). Variables with V-tests of . 2´0 are judged
statistically significant at the 5% level
% in population % in
with sensitive population with
Characteristic % global skin non-sensitive skin
Variable modality (female) (n ˆ1046; 50´8%) (n ˆ 1012; 49´2%) V-test n
Is your facial skin easily irritated? Yes 33Š´77 61Š´09 5Š´53 28Š´24 695
Have you ever experienced an adverse Yes 56Š´75 80Š´11 32Š´61 22Š´18 1168
reaction to a cosmetic product?
Do some cosmetic products make Yes 32Š´94 53Š´25 11Š´95 20Š´49 678
your skin burn or irritated?
Do some cosmetic products make Yes 32Š´82 53Š´63 11Š´31 19Š´80 696
your skin itch within 30 min?
Do some cosmetic products make Yes 35Š´86 53Š´73 17Š´39 17Š´46 738
your skin sting within 30 min?
Have you suffered an adverse Yes 22Š´93 35Š´85 9Š´58 14Š´50 472
reaction to a cosmetic in the last 12 months?
Have you ever suffered from eczema Yes 33Š´62 46Š´94 19Š´85 13Š´11 692
or dermatitis?
Do you have any other problem with Yes 30Š´56 41Š´87 18Š´87 11Š´39 629
your skin, not covered by other questions?
Do you regard yourself as having Yes 23Š´13 32Š´70 13Š´24 10Š´56 476
a sensitive scalp?
Do you suffer from eczema or Yes 14Š´33 21Š´80 6Š´61 10Š´00 295
dermatitis at this moment?
Do some hair products make Yes 31Š´24 40Š´92 21Š´23 9Š´65 643
your scalp itch, sting or smart?
Have you ever suffered from Yes 33Š´28 42Š´73 23Š´51 9Š´26 685
asthma or hay fever?
Did you suffer from eczema Yes 10Š´98 16Š´44 5Š´34 8Š´17 226
or dermatitis as a child?
How would you describe your skin? Dry 26Š´43 34Š´13 18Š´47 8Š´05 544
Do you blush and flush particularly easily? Yes 41Š´35 48Š´47 33Š´99 6Š´64 851
Do you tend to suffer from dandruff? Yes 24Š´54 28Š´01 20Š´95 3Š´68 505

q 2001 British Association of Dermatologists, British Journal of Dermatology, 145, 258±263


SENSITIVE SKIN 261

Figure 3. Bar chart showing the incidence


of features associated with atopy in the
sample populations of men and women.

and are potentially discriminatory between items of the Results


variable to be characterized.
Statistical analysis was carried out using SPAD Of the 3300 questionnaires sent out to women, 2058
(Version 4´00; CISIA, Montreuil, France) and were returned, a response rate of just over 62%. The
SPSS (Version 8´00; SPSS Inc., Chicago, IL, U.S.A.) response rate among the men was just under 52% (258
software. questionnaires returned). Occasionally, individuals

Figure 4. Pie-charts showing the inter-


relationships between sensitive skin in
women (defined as a `yes' answer to `Do you
regard yourself as having a sensitive skin?')
and atopy (defined as a `yes' answer to `Did
you suffer from eczema or dermatitis as a
child?' and/or a `yes' answer to `Have you
ever suffered from asthma or hay fever?').
Although atopics make up almost half of the
female sensitive skin cohort, not all female
atopics have sensitive facial skin.

q 2001 British Association of Dermatologists, British Journal of Dermatology, 145, 258±263


262 C.M.WILLIS et al.

failed to provide answers to all questions. To correct for Of the remaining data collected on facial skin
this, all frequencies represent the percentage of the characteristics, dry skin was found to be present to a
population who answered the particular question. significantly greater extent in those who perceived
Statistical analysis of the telephone survey of 50 non- themselves as having sensitive skin (Table 1), as was
responders indicated that the group who returned their the tendency to blush or flush readily (Table 1).
questionnaires was representative of the sample popu-
lation as a whole, there being no evidence of bias in
favour of those with sensitive skin or a history of
Discussion
cosmetic-induced skin problems (data not shown). Our survey was conducted to assess the level of skin
Figure 1 gives the basic frequencies with which a sensitivity and adverse reactions to cosmetic pro-
positive (`yes') response was given to questions ducts in men and women, and to learn more about
relating to selected skin and scalp characteristics. Just factors that predispose or are associated with
over half of the women and about 38% of the sensitive skin in women. Although the sample
men regarded themselves as having a sensitive skin. population was taken from one regional area
Ten per cent of the total female population reported alone, extrapolation of the data to the U.K.
having a `very sensitive' skin phenotype, the corre- population as a whole should be permissible, as
sponding figure for men being just under 6%. the demographic profile of the region is known to be
Similar proportions of men and women described representative.8 Furthermore, our incidence figure of
themselves as having a sensitive scalp (about one- about 33% for the presence of atopy in the sample
quarter). Dandruff was more commonly reported population closely mirrors that of epidemiological
among men than women. studies conducted in western Europe,9±11 again
Figure 2 gives the frequencies with which women suggesting that we have a representative population.
and men reported adverse reactions to cosmetic and Self-diagnosis of sensitive skin should also be
hair products. Over half of the female responders had regarded as reliable; studies conducted consequent
experienced an adverse reaction to cosmetics at some to this survey showed that self-perceived sensitive
stage in their lives, with over 30% of women and over skin correlates well with many of the predictive
20% of men reporting symptoms of subjective sensory tests for susceptibility to irritation (manuscript in
discomfort on the skin and scalp. preparation).
Statistical comparison between women with sensitive The data obtained from the questionnaire provide
skin and those who viewed themselves as non-sensitive strong evidence that sensitive skin is indeed a common
revealed that the former group had a significantly phenomenon in the U.K., with about 50% of women
greater incidence of adverse reactions to cosmetic and 40% of men regarding themselves as having a
products, both in terms of lifetime and 12-month sensitive skin. Well over a half of women and over a
prevalence (Table 1). Symptoms associated with third of men who responded to the questionnaire had
subjective sensory skin discomfort, such as burning, experienced an adverse reaction to a cosmetic product
stinging and itching, were significantly more common at some stage in their life, with subjective sensory skin
among those with sensitive skin (Table 1). discomfort being a commonly reported phenomenon.
Figure 3 displays the frequencies with which clinical Our prevalence figure for the preceding 12-month
signs of an atopic diathesis were exhibited by men period of about 18´5% (men and women combined)
and women. Over one-third of the individuals would suggests that the level of adverse reactions to
be classified as atopic, on the basis of a positive cosmetic products in the general population may be
history of childhood eczema and/or a positive history on the increase, a consumer study conducted in the
of asthma or hay fever. In the analysis of sensitive U.K. during the 1970s having described a 12%
vs. non-sensitive women, all of the individual incidence of unwanted effects over a similar time
manifestations of atopy were significantly more period.6
prevalent among the sensitive skin group (Table 1). In the detailed analysis of sensitive vs. non-sensitive
However, among the women who regarded themselves women, it was shown statistically that certain features
as having sensitive skin, 51% did not have an atopic and characteristics were over-represented in the former
diathesis, while one-third of those who were atopic did group. Burning, itching and stinging all occurred more
not consider themselves as having sensitive skin commonly, confirming the link between heightened
(Fig. 4). neurosensory discomfort and the self-perception of

q 2001 British Association of Dermatologists, British Journal of Dermatology, 145, 258±263


SENSITIVE SKIN 263

sensitive skin. Why, in physiological terms, some Acknowledgments


individuals have a greater predilection for this type of
The authors acknowledge the assistance and advice
response is not fully understood, but our data are
given by Christiane Montastier, Colette Hourseau,
consistent with the results of provocation studies
GenevieÁve Loussouarn and Monique Romeu.
which show that those with self-perceived sensitive
skin are significantly more susceptible to the neuro-
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