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Sc ratc h-Bu ilt D rilla Kill a

A Step by Step G uide

By Fr ancisco J. Piñ a Ap r il 24 th , 2015

uide By Fr ancisco J. Piñ a Ap r il 24 t h , 2015 Hi

Hi ev eryone! Thi s is the first i n a series o f guides on h ow to make your own sc ratchbuilt O rc fleet for Man O’ War. I deci d ed to start w ith the Orcs because of t he relative s implicity in t h e design of their ships, b eing all roug h and patch y , whic h is easier to replicate wit h simple ma t erials and to o ls. I hope yo u enjoy this t utorial as mu ch as I did w riting it.

List o f Materials:

3mm thic k Foamcore b oard (availa ble in most a rts & crafts sto r es)

A sheet o f business ca r d stock

Bamboo kebab sticks ( 3mm thick a p prox.)

Toothpic k s (2mm thic approx.)

Embroid e ry thread (a n y color will d o)

Some scr ews, any size you want (6 mm thick at most)

Liquid sili cone glue

PVA glue

CA glue

Tools of t he trade (sci s sors, hobby knife, rulers, etc.)

So, l e t’s get on w i th it!

glue ‐ CA glue ‐ Tools of t he trade (sci s sors, hobby k nife,

Ship constructio n :

1 – D raw and cut two 40mm x 14mm piece s of foam bo a rd.

D raw and cut two 40mm x 14mm piece s of foam bo a rd. 2

2 – G lue both foa m board piec es together, using the sili cone glue.

m board piec es together, using the sili cone glue. 3 – D raw the cut

3 – D raw the cut t ing marks fo r the prow s h ape and the treadwheel s lot. The for mer can be a t any length a nd width yo u like, as long as it’ s wider than your select e d screw (or, in the case o f this guide, set of screw s, as we shal l use three o f the m glued toget h er). The latt er should be around 15m m from the s t ern and bet w een 7mm a n d 8mm wide .

m glued toget h er). The latt er should be around 15m m from the s

4

– C ut along the markings usi n g the hobb y knife.

– C ut along the markings usi n g the hobb y knife. 5 – C

5 – C arve the hul l shape from the bottom piece of foa m board, lea v ing the top p iece as inta c t as possibl e (this is why I used two 3mm b o ard pieces i nstead of on e 6mm boar d piece… wel l, that and th e fact that i t was alread y lying aroun d xD).

and th e fact that i t was alread y lying aroun d xD). 6 –

6 – F or the tread w heel we sh a ll use two pi eces glued to gether again . Cut two 10 mm wide stri ps of foam b o ard and glu e the m together…

two pi e ces glued to gether again . Cut two 10 mm wide stri ps

…th e n mark the s trips with a series of hal f circles, aro u nd 10mm r a dius. In the picture we s ee our strip is 10cm lon g , givin g us enough h alf circles f o r 5 treadwhe els.

g us enough h alf ‐ circles f o r 5 treadwhe els. 7 – C

7 – C ut the half c ircle using th e hobby kni f e. You can s a nd the edge using a ver y fine sand p a per to give it a smoothe r

finis h .

ver y fine sand p a per to give it a smoothe r finis h .

8 – N ow the whe el paddles. C u t a 6mm wi d e strip of b u siness card, a nd mark it i n 5mm inter v als, with a f u ll line every 3 mar k ings. This str ip should be at least 135 m m long to m ake sure it w i ll cover the w hole curve o f the wheel.

ings. This str ip should be at least 135 m m long to m ake sure

9 – F ollowing the markings, f o ld the strip i n an In OutI n fashion, as in the pictur e. You can sli ghtly score t h e sections o f the s trip with a b a ll point pen or the hobby knife to ma k e the folding process easi er.

the hobby knife to ma k e the folding process easi er. 10 – Glue the

10 – Glue the inn er faces of th e paddles us ing silicone o r PVA glue (y our choice; I prefer the s i licone glue b ecause it set s faste r, but it’s qu i te messier t an the PVA glue, you ha v e been warn ed). Here yo u can see the glued paddl es next to th e whe el, checking f o r the final p o sition of the paddles bef o re gluing.

o r the final p o sition of the paddles bef o re gluing. 11 –

11 – Once you ha v e decided o n a good pos i tion, glue th e paddle stri p to the whee l, and trim a n y excess.

Once you ha v e decided o n a good pos i tion, glue th e

12

– To give the p addles a m o re finished l ook, cut so m e 1.5mm x 2 0mm strips o f business c ard (twice a s many as th e

pad d les on your w heel, in this case it will b e a total of 1 4 strips, 7 per side).

case it will b e a total of 1 4 strips, 7 pe r side). 13

13 – Glue the stri ps to the wh eel, from th e tip of the p a ddles to the “center” of the wheel. D o this on bot h sides of th e

whe el. It is advisa ble to trim t h e center en d s of the strip s a bit so the y don’t pile u p on each ot h er.

s a bit so the y don’t pile u p on each ot h er. 14

14 – Cut two 5m m diameter h alf circles. I t doesn’t ma tter if they’r e not perfect , in fact I ma de mine a li t tle bit jagge d

(rem ember the O rcs are not th e best or mo st precise en gineers in th e Old World x D).

t tle bit jagge d (rem ember the O rcs are not th e best or

15 – Glue the half circles to bo th sides of th e wheel, cov ering the cen ter ends of t h e paddle str ips.

cov e ring the cen ter ends of t h e paddle str ips. 16 –

16 – Glue the fini s hed treadw h eel to the sh ip hull.

the fini s hed treadw h eel to the sh ip hull. 17 – Cut four

17 – Cut four bus iness card str ips, two to li ne the sides o f the ship h u ll, and two t o line the pr o w. These st r ips should b e

wide enough to c over the wh o le hull of th e ship, and a lso stand ar o und 1mm a b ove the dec k. This will v a ry dependin g on h o w much did you carve fr o m the botto m of the hull , so take you r measure fr o m the botto m edge (or “ w aterline”) t o the d eck of the h ull, add 1mm and that’s the width of your strips. Give the pro w strips a bi t of “overlap ” to cover th e front end of the s ide strips.

width of your strips. Give the pro w strips a bi t of “overlap ” to

18 – Fold the stri ps along, wi t h one of the sides being 4mm wide (t he straight e dge of the h ull plus 1m m for the dec k

rail). You can sco r e the strips b efore foldin g if you like, b ut personally I prefer not to, I like the r ough and un even finish.

I prefer not to, I like the r ough and un even finish. 19 – Glue

19 – Glue the stri ps to the hul l, as seen in t he picture. A s you can s e e, the prow strips overla p the side st r ips, and all o f

the m stand up a bit from the deck to for m the rail. Als o cut and pa ste two sma l l rectangles t o cover the stern sides o f

the h ull (the ones that connec t to the trea d wheel – this last step wa s not pictured , sorry).

d wheel – this last step wa s not picture d , sorry). 20 – Cut

20 – Cut the scr e w (or screw s , in my case ) to desired l ength, addi n g between 3 mm and 4m m to glue th e back of th e

scre w to the pro w of the ship.

) to desired l ength, addi n g between 3 mm and 4m m to glue

21 – As I used th ree screws, I glued them together wi th thick CA g lue, the liqu id one will n ot work for this as it run s

arou nd the screw . If you are u s ing just one screw you ca n obviously s kip this step.

ing just one screw you ca n obviously s kip this step. 22 – Carve the

22 – Carve the ins ide of the pr o w of the shi p to accomm odate for the screw.

the pr o w of the shi p to accomm odate for the screw. 23 –

23 – Insert the s c rew in the p r ow of the s h ip and glue i t in position, using a gen erous amoun t of silicone glue. This wi l l

take quite some t ime to set, s o be patient.

position, using a gen erous amoun t of silicone glue. This wi l l take quite

24 – Mark the po sitions of th e mast and t he captain’s shack. The o riginal mod el uses two r ound tower s , but to kee p

thin g s simple I d e cided to repl ace them wi t h a rectangu lar shack, w h ich is a lot e a sier to build . Punch a hol e in the dec k ,

wide enough for t he mast, wh ch will be ma de out of ou r kebab stick s (around 3 m m thick).

ma de out of ou r kebab stick s (around 3 m m thick). 25 –

25 – Cut the piec es for the sh a ck out of rem nant bits of foam board a nd business card stock. I n this exampl e the shack i s

abo u t 9mm wide and 8mm tal l, with a little diagonal cu t on the roof. The shack ro of goes out a bout 1mm t o each side.

a little diagonal cu t on the roof. The shack ro of goes out a bout

26 – Build the sha ck…

a little diagonal cu t on the roof. The shack ro of goes out a bout

…an d glue it to th e deck of the ship.

…an d glue it to th e deck of the ship. 27 – For the mas

27 – For the mas t , cut a length of kebab sti ck of about 4 5mm to 50 m m (adjust t h is according to your ban n ers) and san d

both ends to avo i d splintering . Cut a tooth p ick to a len g th of about 2 5mm to ma ke the flagp o le (again, ad j ust accordin g

to y o ur pennants ). Glue both sticks with a n overlap of about 5mm, and wrap th is overlap ar o und with th e embroider y thre a d, just enou gh to make t h e piece a bi t more solid. This will give the appeara n ce of thick r ope. It is rec o mmended t o put a dab of CA gl ue in the kno ts to fix them in place (so rry for the o u t of focus sh o t, I was run n ing out of s u nlight).

for the o u t of focus sh o t, I was run n ing out

28 – Insert and gl u e the mast t o the deck.

for the o u t of focus sh o t, I was run n ing out

At th is point we a lready have a pretty dec e nt DrillaKilla , ready to be painted an d put into co mmission, bu t we’ll go on e step further and g ive our ship a more mena cing look.

29 – Cut a few str ips of busine s s card, just a bit under 2 mm wide.

ips of busine s s card, just a bit under 2 mm wide. 30 – Line

30 – Line the cent er of the hul l sides with a couple of len gths of this s trip, as seen in the pictur e.

of le n gths of this s trip, as seen in the pictur e. 31 –

31 – Cut some st r ips of card, s o they go fr o m the wate r line of the h ull up to jus t under 1mm above the r a il. Glue the m

alon g the sides o f the hull as s een in the p icture below , pressing ag a inst the cen ter strip with your nails t o give it som e shap e. This will b e very tediou s and time c o nsuming, b u t as you can see, it really makes the s h ip stand out . Use as man y

or a s few strips a s you see fit.

b u t as you can see, it really makes the s h ip stand out

Et v o ilà, the finis h ed model! N ow it’s read y to be prime d and painte d with your p referred col o r scheme. I’ m painting a l l my D rillaKillas re d because sp eed is a mus t for DrillaKil la tactics, an d everyone k nows that D A RED WUN Z GO FASTA! ! (Yea h , I know, I k n ow, that’s a 40K thing, b u t hey, it fits pretty well in Man O’ Wa r, and partic u larly for Dril l aKillas, so cu t me s ome slack, O K?)

u larly for Dril l aKillas, so cu t me s ome slack, O K?) I
u larly for Dril l aKillas, so cu t me s ome slack, O K?) I
u larly for Dril l aKillas, so cu t me s ome slack, O K?) I
u larly for Dril l aKillas, so cu t me s ome slack, O K?) I
u larly for Dril l aKillas, so cu t me s ome slack, O K?) I

I ho p e you like th e final resul t, I know it’s a bit bigger than the orig inal model ( mine turned around 70m m long vs th e 55m m of the ori ginal) but yo u can always adjust the measures for your model s to your ow n tastes. An y way, Man O ’ War’ s game syste m is so flexib le that this d i fference in s ize will be ha rdly noticea b le gameplay wise.

See y ou around!