Sie sind auf Seite 1von 42

COMPETENCY-

BASED LEARNING
MATERIAL

Preparing and Cutting Materials for


Casual Apparel

Sector Garment
Qualification Dressmaking NCII
Title
Unit of Prepare and Cut Materials for Casual Apparel
Competency
Module Title Preparing and Cutting Materials for Casual
Apparel
UNIVERSITY OF BATANGAS
(UB)
HILLTOP, BATANGAS CITY
CBLMs on Food and Date Developed: Document No. Page
Beverage Services NCII March 16, 2016
Issued by:
NTTA 33
Providing Food and Date revised: Revision #01
Beverage Service to March 16, 2016
guests
COMPETENCY-
BASED LEARNING
MATERIAL

Preparing and Cutting Materials for


Casual Apparel

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


Page |2
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL
Welcome to the module in “Preparing and Cutting Materials for Casual
Apparel”. This module contains training materials and activities for you to
complete.
The unit of competency "Prepare and Cut Materials for Casual
Apparel" deals with the knowledge and skills required in preparing and
cutting of materials for casual apparel. It details the requirements for
preparing materials, lay-outing and marking of pattern on material and
cutting of materials.
You are required to go through a series of learning activities in
order to complete each learning outcome of the module. Each learning
outcomes is provided with Information Sheets (Reference Materials for
further reading to help you better understand the required activities).
Follow these activities on your own and answer the self-check at the end
of each learning outcome. You may remove a blank answer sheet at the
end of each module (or get one from your facilitator/trainer) to write your
answers for each self-check. If you have questions, don’t hesitate to ask
your facilitator for assistance.
Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)
You may already have some or most of the knowledge and skills
covered in this learner's guide because you have:
been working for some time
already completed training in this area.

If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a


particular skill or skills, talk to him/her about having them formally
recognized so you don't have to do the same training again. If you have a
qualification or Certificate of Competency from previous trainings, show
it to your trainer. If the skills you acquired are still current and relevant
to the unit/s of competency they may become part of the evidence you
can present for RPL. If you are not sure about the currency of your skills,
discuss this with your trainer.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


Page |3
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
At the end of this module is a Learner’s Diary. Use this diary to
record important dates, jobs undertaken and other workplace events that
will assist you in providing further details to your trainer or assessor. A
Record of Achievement is also provided for your trainer to complete
once you complete the module.
This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency, in
Preparing and Cutting Materials for Casual Apparel. This will be the source of
information for you to acquire knowledge and skills in this particular trade
independently and at your own pace, with minimum supervision or help from
your instructor.
 Talk to your trainer and agree on how you will both organize the Training
of this unit. Read through the module carefully. It is divided into
sections, which cover all the skills, and knowledge you need to
successfully complete this module.
 Work through all the information and complete the activities in each
section. Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested
references are included to supplement the materials provided in this
module.
 Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager.
He/she is there to support you and show you the correct way to do
things.
 Your trainer will tell you about the important things you need to consider
when you are completing activities and it is important that you listen and
take notes.
 You will be given plenty of opportunity to ask questions and practice on
the job. Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work
shifts. This way you will improve both your speed and memory and also
your confidence.
 Talk to more experience workmates and ask for their guidance.
 Use the self-check questions at the end of each section to test your own
progress.
 When you are ready, ask your trainer to watch you perform the activities
outlined in this module.
 As you work through the activities, ask for written feedback on your
progress. Your trainer keeps feedback/ pre-assessment reports for this
Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


Page |4
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
reason. When you have successfully completed each element, ask your
trainer to mark on the reports that you are ready for assessment.
 When you have completed this module (or several modules), and feel
confident that you have had sufficient practice, your trainer will arrange
an appointment with registered assessor to assess you. The results of
your assessment will be recorded in your competency Achievement
Record.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


Page |5
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIALS

DRESSMAKING NC II
CORE COMPETENCIES

No Unit of Competency Module Title Code

1 Draft and cut pattern of Drafting and cutting GRM743301


casual apparel pattern of casual apparel

2 Prepare and cut materials Preparing and cutting GRM743302


of casual apparel materials of casual
apparel

3 Sew casual apparel Sewing casual apparel GRM743303

4 Apply finishing touches on Applying finishing GRM743304


casual apparel touches on casual apparel

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


Page |6
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
TABLE OF CONTENTS
HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS…………3

LIST OF COMPETENCIES…………………………………………………………………6

TABLE OF CONTENTS……………………………………………………………………..7

MODULE CONTENT…………………………………………………………………………9

LEARNING OUTCOME…………………………………………………………………….11

LEARNING EXPERIENCES………………………………………………………………12

INFORMATION SHEET 2.3-1 Fabric Manufacturing and Design….…………13

Self-check 2.3-1………………………………………………………………….….18

Answer Key 2.3-1……………………………………………………………………19

INFORMATION SHEET 2.3-2 Preparation of Fabric Before Cutting………..20

Self-check 2.3-2…………………………………………………………………….23

Answer Key 2.3-2…………………………………………………………………...24

TASK SHEET 2.3-2 procedure in cutting of material…………………………..25

Performance Criteria Checklist 2.3-2…………………………………………..26

INFORMATION SHEET 2.3-3 Measuring, Marking/Tracing and Cutting


Skills…………………………………………………………………………………………..27

Self-check 2.3-3…………………………………………………………..…………33

Answer Key 2.3-3……………………………………………………………….…..34

Job Sheet 2.3-3 Measuring, Marking/ Tracing and cutting skills………….35

Performance Criteria Checklist 2.3-3…………………………………………..36

INFORMATION SHEET 2.3-4 Procedure in cutting of materials…………....37

Self Check 2.3-4……………………………………………………………………..39


Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


Page |7
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Answer key 2.3-4……………………………………………………………………40

TASK SHEET 2.3-4 Cut Fabric for Sewing…………………………………………41

Performance Criteria Checklist 2.3-4…………………………………………………..42

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


Page |8
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
MODULE CONTENT

Qualification Title : Dressmaking NCII

Unit of Competency : Prepare and Cut Materials for Casual Apparel

Module Title : Preparing and Cutting Materials for Casual


Apparel
Introduction:
This unit covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in
preparing and cutting of materials for casual apparel. It details the
requirements for preparing materials, lay-outing and marking of pattern on
material and cutting of materials.
Learning outcomes:

Upon completion of this module, you must be able to:

1. Prepare materials (fabric)


2. Lay-out and mark pattern on materials
3. Cut materials

Assessment Criteria:
1. Fabric is collected and checked in accordance with job specification.
2. Fabric width and quality are checked according to instructions and if
needed appropriate action is taken in accordance with work
requirements.
3. Fabric is checked for quality, faults, width, selvedges, dye lot and
marking requirement according to workplace procedures.
4. Fabric is soaked/drip dried and pressed in accordance with standard
fabric care.
5. Accessories and accents are selected and prepared in accordance with
specified garment style/design.
6. Measuring tools are prepared in accordance with job requirements.
7. Equipment and tools are prepared according to procedure.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


Page |9
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
8. Cutting table is prepared and set-up in accordance with company
procedures.
9. Patterns are prepared and checked in accordance with company’s
specifications.
10. Patterns are laid out and pinned on the fabric in accordance with fabric
grain line.
11. Fabric is laid-up and alignment with pattern is checked as per
procedure.
12. Pattern pieces are positioned manually in accordance with company’s
procedures.
13. Seam allowances are marked on the fabric in accordance with job
requirements.
14. Darts and pocket locations are traced/marked on the fabric in
accordance with specified garment style or design.
15. Markings is placed in accordance with company’s procedures.
16. Garment style or design is interpreted in accordance with customer’s
specification.
17. Fabric is cut to meet design requirements and measurements of the
pattern.
18. Garment parts are checked for completeness in accordance with
specified garment design or styles.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 10
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
LEARNING OUTCOME #3 CUT MATERIALS

CONTENT:
1. Fabric manufacturing and design
2. Preparation of fabric before cutting
3. Measuring, marking/tracing and cutting skills
4. Procedure in cutting materials

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Garment style or design is interpreted in accordance with customer’s


specification.
2. Fabric is cut to meet design requirements and measurements of the
pattern.
3. Garment parts are checked for completeness in accordance with
specified garment design or styles.

CONDITIONS:

Student/ trainee must be provided with the following:


1. WORKPLACE LOCATION
2. TOOLS, ACCESSORIES AND SUPPLIES
 Tape Measure
 L-square
 Meter Stick
 Pencil
 Record Notebook
 Model/Body Form
 Procedure Manual
 Pins
 Pattern Paper

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 11
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
 Dressmaker’s chalk

3. TRAINING MATERIALS
Competency Based Learning Materials

ASSESSMENT METHOD:
Demonstration
Oral Questioning

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 12
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome:
Cut Materials

Learning Activities Special Instructions

1. Read Information sheet 2.3-1

“Fabric manufacturing and design” Read and understand the


information sheet and Check
Answer Self-check 2.3-1 yourself by answering the Self-
Compare Answer Key 2.3-1 Check. You must answer all
questions correctly before
proceeding to next activity.
2. Read Information sheet 2.3-2

“Preparation of fabric before cutting”


Answer Self-check 2.3-2

Compare Answer Key 2.3-2

3. Perform Task Sheet 2.3-2 on


procedure in cutting of materials

Evaluate output using performance


criteria checklist 2.3-2

4. Read Information sheet 2.3-3


“ Measuring , marking/tracing and
cutting skills”

Answer Self-check 2.3-3

Compare Answer Key 2.3-3

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 13
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
5. Perform Task Sheet 2.3-3 on
measuring , marking/tracing and
cutting skills

Evaluate output using performance


criteria checklist 2.3-3

6. Read information sheet 2.3-4

“Procedure in cutting of materials”

Answer Self-check 2.3-4

Compare Answer Key 2.3-4

7. Perform Task Sheet 2.3-4 on


procedure in cutting of materials

Evaluate output using performance


criteria checklist 2.3-4

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 14
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
INFORMATION SHEET 2.3-1
Fabric Manufacturing and Design

Learning Objective:
After reading this information sheet, you must be able to:
1. Enumerate the elements and principles of design.
2. Gain knowledge on what are the elements and principles of design to
be consider in making your future projects.
Introduction:
In creating a design one of the components that interact is the element of
design. The element and principles of design are flexible and should be
interpreted within the context of current fashion. A design can be defined as an
arrangement of lines, shape, colors and texture that create a visual image. The
principles of design are the rates that govern how elements are combined. The
elements are therefore the raw materials that must be combined successfully.
Color
Color is the first element to which consumers respond, often selecting or
rejecting a garment because of its color appeal. Therefore, designers must
consider their customers and provide colors that are both appealing and
flattering. People connect certain colors with holidays and seasons. They expect
to see earth tones in fall clothing, jewel colors for the holidays, the pastels of
flowers in the early spring, and refreshing white for the summer. All
manufacturers include some of these colors in their lines
Fabric
Color is interpreted in the medium of the fabric. Fabrics are the designer’s
artistic medium, in that fashion design is essentially sculpture in fabric in
relation to the body.
Fabric selection
Is the selection or creation of an appropriate style for a fabric, or the reverse,
the selection of the right fabric for the design? Next to understanding the needs
of the customer and interpreting trends for them, choosing the fabric suitable
for a particular style is one of the most important aspects of designing. The
designer chooses fabrics on the basis of fashion trends, quality, performance,
price and suitability.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 15
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Fabrics themselves inspire garment design. For example, the softness and
drivability of jersey might inspire gather in a dress. Other designers work the
other way around, first getting an idea, perhaps developing it in a sketch, and
then finding the appropriate fabric for it. However the designer works, he or
she must ultimately decide which fabric will work best with a design, or vice
versa. Designers must develop the ability to picture a design already made up
in the fabric, this ability comes through observation and experience.
Many firms build a line or even an entire reputation on one fabric such as
denim or stonewashed silk. In sportswear, a base fabric is selected fore jacket
and lowers. In jeans wear, for example the base fabric is always denim. An
assortment of fabrics, solid and patterns, is chosen to go with the base fabric.
The designer or merchandiser must be sure to include a Varity of weight,
textures, and patterns in a line, as well as a balance of fashion and classic
fabrics
Line
After selecting the fabric, the designer must consider the other elements of
good design. In this section, the term line refers to the direction of visual
interest in a garment created by construction details such as seams, openings,
pleats, gathers, tucks, top stitching, and trims. When lines combine, space is
enclosed and forms and shapes are defined.
Lines offered a path of vision for the eyes when is wearing an object/outfit. The
arrangement of lines in clothing design can cause to appear heavier or thinner
than what actually Lines within a garment are created by darts seams and
decorative details. Each kind of line produces its own special effect. Straight
lines and shapes denote force and strength and have a masculine quality;
curved lines are the line of nature, they are graceful give a feminine effect.
Lines are the greatest devices of fashion designers. Since line creates illusion of
height and width, they can be used to one’s requirement to tone down or
exaggerate a particular figure type.
Shapes
It describes the outer dimensions or contour of an object. Shape also encloses
space and imparts a certain character to the object viewed. Through clothing
design, the shape of the human body is often revealed in a natural way, but
sometimes even distorted. The shape of clothing on a human body,
communicates silently, the messages about the wearer.
Every fashion period, a shape emerges slowly or evolved suddenly, whatever it
is, every period has a specific shape of garment which once determined can be
modified and re-styled for variation in design without changing the basic shape
Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 16
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
of the garment, it is either flare or tight, circular or straight, a line or raglan. It
has been observed that an easy fitting shape of the garment is easily accepted
and largely vitiated as well as has a longevity of style, where as a tight fitting
garment is generally short lived since it is suitable to only perfected figure
types. It is therefore advisable that the designer chooses an easy silhouette to
keep on creating for a longer duration

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 17
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
SELF-CHECK 2.3-1
A. True or False:
Write (T) if the statement is true and (F) if the statement is false.
________1. The elements and principles of design are flexible and should be
interpreted within the context of current fashion.
________2. Creation of appropriate style needs to be consider in the selection of
fabric.
________3. Customer needs is not important in fabric selection.

B. Enumeration:
List and describe the elements of design.
1.
2.
3.
4.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 18
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Answer Key 2.3-1
A. True or False
1. T
2. T
3. F
B. Enumeration:
1. Color - the first element to which consumers respond, often selecting or
rejecting a garment because of its color appeal.
2. Fabric - are the designer’s artistic medium, in that fashion design is
essentially sculpture in fabric in relation to the body.
3. Line - refers to the direction of visual interest in a garment created by
construction details such as seams, openings, pleats, gathers, tucks, top
stitching, and trims.
4. Shapes - It describes the outer dimensions or contour of an object. The shape
of clothing on a human body, communicates silently, the messages about the
wearer.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 19
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
INFORMATION SHEET 2.3-2
Preparation of Fabric before Cutting

Learning Objective:
After reading this information sheet, you must be able to:
1. Learn the basic information on how to prepare the fabric before
cutting.
2. Discover some helpful tips in cutting of fabrics.
Introduction:
Properly prepping and cutting your fabric is the first step for sewing
garments that wear well. Cutting your pattern out accurately, and on the
straight of grain, is essential for seams that go together with ease, and
continue to hang well with wear. Learning how to cut fabric properly will result
in better sewing that starts before you even turn on your machine.
The basics:
Start by pre-washing your fabric according to the manufacturer’s
recommendations. Iron your fabric (if allowed) to make sure it’s flat and free of
wrinkles, and the selvage is pressed smooth. Be careful not to pull and stretch
the fabric out of shape as you iron it.
When you buy fabric off the bolt at a store, the selvages are approximately
lined up to create a fold. Now that your fabric has been washed and pre-cut,
you will have to reestablish the fold line on the correct grain. The grainline that
you will see most often when cutting out your pattern is the one that runs
parallel to the selvage.
To find this lengthwise grain of your fabric, line up the selvages with right sides
together. The raw edges cut from the fabric store will most likely not line up as
they did before washing. Make sure the selvages are even with each other for
the entire length of your fabric and there are no twists or wrinkles in the fold.
The fold line and the selvages should be parallel to each other, and the fabric
should lie perfectly smooth and flat in between them.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 20
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
It is important to establish the correct grainline of the fabric so you can line up
your sewing pattern correctly. Your pattern should come with a cutting
diagram to show you where to lay out your pieces for the most efficient use of
space. Use this as a guide to help make sure all of your pieces are laid out in
the correct direction.
In the photo below you can see the raw edges of the fabric running horizontally
across the top and the fold running vertically and parallel to the selvage. It’s
easy to lay out pieces that need to be cut on the fold, but for pieces that need
to be cut on the lengthwise grain, a clear ruler is very helpful

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 21
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
A cutting mat with a grid makes laying out your fabric a breeze! But all you
really need to do is establish your fold line along the lengthwise grain (which is
parallel to the selvage) and use your ruler or seam gauge to make sure the
grainline of your pattern piece is also parallel to the fold line. Be sure to
measure in multiple spots along the entire grainline to double check the piece
is parallel to the fold along the entire length of the pattern tissue.
Other tips and helpful hints to consider:
 Before you actually start cutting into your fabric, make sure all of your
pattern pieces are laid out correctly and you’ve taken into account that
some pieces may need to be cut out twice, or even four times (common
with pockets and waistbands with interfacing).
 Extra fabric will need to be purchased when using prints that have a
directional pattern, a print that needs to be matched (like with stripes
and plaids), and fabric with a directional nap (like with velvet and
corduroy). Pay close attention to how you’re laying out your pattern
pieces on fabrics that have a direction. For example, you’d hate to buy a
beautiful bird print fabric only to end up with a dress that looks
wonderful from the front, but has birds flying upside down in the back!
 Make sure your pins and scissors are sharp! Dull pins can be damaging
on more delicate fabrics, and sharp scissors make a big difference in the
accuracy of your cutting. Your seams along corners and hemlines will
line up so much easier when they’ve been cut in straight lines.
 If you don’t feel you can cut accurately around pins, try using a rotary
cutter and pattern weights instead. Not only is this method much faster,
but it significantly reduces fraying while cutting.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 22
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
SELF-CHECK 2.3-2
True or False:
Write (T) if the statement is True and (F) if the statement is False.

___________1. It is important to establish the correct grainline of the fabric


for lining up the sewing pattern correctly.
___________2. All garment pieces must be cut out twice.
___________3. Using of rotary cutter can reduce the fabric from fraying.
___________4. Establish a fold line along the lengthwise grain and put the
pattern pieces parallel to the fold line before start
cutting.
__________ 5. The fold line and the selvages should not be parallel to each
other.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 23
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
ANSWER KEY 2.3-2
1. T
2. F
3. T
4. T
5. F

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 24
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Task Sheet 2.3-2
Title: Preparation of fabric before cutting
Performance Objective: Given the materials and procedures, the trainee must
be able to carry out preparation of fabric before cutting.
Supplies and Materials:
Fabric
Pins
Pin cushion
Tools and Equipment;
Basin/pail Ironing board Hanger
Hand spray Cutting table Clothes line
Flat iron Ruler Clothes clip
Meter stick
Steps/ Procedure:
1. Prewash the fabric and hang to dry.
2. Lay the fabric right side down on the ironing board and iron the fabric,
use the hand spray fill with water and spray a small amount of water on
the fabric while ironing.
3. Lay the fabric on the cutting table.
4. Establish the fold line along the lengthwise grain. The selvage edges
should meet and the top and bottom are straight.
Assessment Method: Performance Criteria Checklist

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 25
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Performance Criteria Checklist 2.3-2

Criteria Yes No
Did the trainee………
 Prepare the tools and equipment used in
preparation of fabric before cutting.
 Prewash the fabric properly
 Iron the fabric accurately
 Properly laid the fabric on the cutting table
 Establish the fold line according to selvage grain

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 26
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
INFORMATION SHEET 2.3-3

Measuring, marking/tracing and cutting skills

Learning Objectives: After reading this information sheet, you must be able
to:
1. Know the construction of fabrics.
2. Understand the different methods of cutting fabrics for sewing.
Introduction:
There are many different methods of cutting fabrics for sewing. While we each
have a favorite method, it is extremely important to be aware of all of the
techniques and their special applications. Custom work means adapting to
different patterns, designs and fabrics. This adaptability must extend to the
very first step of the fabrication process, cutting the fabric.
Before we can discuss cutting techniques, it is important to understand the
construction of fabrics. We rarely deal with knit or stretchy fabrics, so the
primary focus here will be on woven fabrics. The process of weaving involves
stretching the warp threads, the vertical threads, tight. The weft or woof are
the filling threads which run horizontally and are used to bind the warp
threads on the ends to create the selvage. The warp and weft lines of the fabric
are referred to as grain lines or straight of grain.
The techniques for cutting fabric listed below begin with cutting following the
straight of grain. This is always the best method to follow whenever possible
because the fabrics themselves try to revert to straight of grain when hanging.
However, subsequent techniques help you adapt to patterns on the fabric
which are printed off square.

Cutting Techniques:

Straight of Grain.
This process involves cutting the fabric following the weft thread
horizontally across the width of the fabric. Ideally, all square cuts should follow
the straight of grain. This eliminates ripples and sagging in the finished
product and the entire fabrication process is easier because of your confidence
that the fabric is square. There are five techniques to use:

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 27
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Woven horizontal lines: If the pattern of the fabric has a woven
horizontal line - not a printed on top horizontal line - you can cut the fabric
following that horizontal line. This is the easiest method by which to cut on the
straight of grain

Sighting. If the weft thread is large enough, you can often cut the width
just by following the thread with your eyes.

Pulling threads. Snip thru the selvage. Loosen a piece of the weft thread
and gently pull on it. Depending on how loosely the fabric is woven and how
strong the weft thread is, you may be able to pull anywhere from two inches
to most of the width of the fabric. As the thread is pulled, it will cause a
puckering effect along the weft line.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 28
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
As the thread is pulled free, it will often leave a gap line. Once the thread
breaks, cut along the pucker and/or gap line as far as you can. If possible,
use the slicing technique to continue your cut line just a little farther past
the pull line. Select a thread and pull again, continuing the process across
the width of the fabric.
Tips:
 Place sheer fabrics on a dark surface or brown kraft paper to see the
pull line easier.
 If the pull line does not show on the face of the fabric, turn it over.
Often the pull line will show better on the back of the fabric.
Slicing. A very sharp pair of scissors will slice through the warp threads
easily while following a weft thread across the width of fabric. Open your
scissors part way to find the sharpest spot. Use your alternate hand to hold
the cut fabric down taut behind the scissors as you gently push the scissors
along the width of the fabric. With practice, you will be able to feel when the
scissors catch as they cut thru the weft thread - thereby warning you to slow
down or stop and adjust your fabric to continue.
Ripping. This technique is recommended only when the warp threads
are very weak. Snip thru the selvage of the fabric. In short sharp bursts, tug
the two sides of the fabric away from each other. Do not try to rip in one long
motion. This technique should not be used if the ripped edge becomes too
stretched out and rippled.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 29
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Follow the pattern.
Plaids & checks.
If the pattern has a definite horizontal line, simply cut along that line. If
the printed pattern is severely off grain, over 2", decide if the treatment
design will accommodate this fabric. Roman shades, especially, need to be
cut as close to straight of grain as possible. Once a piece is cut, if the cutting
line is not square, you can block/straighten the fabric piece using the same
method of blocking a piece cut on the straight of grain.
Floral or all-over patterns.
Spread the width of the fabric across the table. Align at least one edge of
the fabric along the straight edge of the table. Smooth the fabric to eliminate
any stretched or puckered areas. Determine a point on the pattern which
repeats across the width of the fabric. Draw a line from one point to the next.
Use the straightedge to continue the line to the selvage edge. Cut along that
line.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 30
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Square the fabric to a straight edge.
This technique requires a professional workroom table. This table is
typically five feet wide and eight or more feet long. It is covered with padding
and canvas and bound on the sides with a rule strip. Horizontal lines are
drawn on the table in one inch increments. Often, vertical lines are also
drawn, creating a one inch grid over the entire surface of the table. Fabric is
laid out flat on this table with both selvage edges aligned with the edges of
the table. Some workrooms use a 60 inch ruler to draw a line horizontally
across the fabric from one ruled side to the other. Other workrooms use a
large T- or L- square to draw the horizontal cutting line. You can also ‘peel
back’ the fabric as you cut, simply following a horizontal line drawn on the
table.
Measure from the selvage edge.
When railroading fabrics, the selvage edge can be used as a true straight
edge to measure into the width of the fabric and mark for vertical cuts.
Fold the fabric to obtain a straight edge.
Some fabrics defy all efforts to cut following a grain line or aligning to a
square table. These include laces which are too stretchy and/or slippery to
square to a table, embroidered sheers where the warp and weft have been
twisted, blackout and insulated linings with fused layers and heavy weight
upholsteries with fused backings. What you are doing here is establishing a
straight edge based on the fabric. The edge you achieve will look square, but
will not follow the thread line.

When all other methods fail, this one is very effective for cutting fabrics.
Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, aligning the two selvage edges. Smooth
flat. Fold the end of the fabric up about 10-12 inches, keeping selvages and
side fold line aligned. With all sides aligned the bottom fold line is now a
straight line.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 31
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Measure from the bottom fold up to the shortest point. Mark that
measure across the width of the folded fabric. Cut along that line. This gives
you a straight edge. You can now cut shorter valance pieces by measuring
from the cut edge up and drawing a horizontal line across the fabric. To cut
a long width of fabric, fold the bottom of the fabric up one half the finished
measure of the required cut. Measure from the fold to the edge of the fabric
along the width of the fabric.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 32
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Self-Check 2.3-3
A. Multiple Choice:
Choose the best answer. Write the letter of your choice on your answer
sheet.
1. This technique is recommended only when the wrap threads are very weak.
A. Ripping C. Slicing
B. Sighting D. Pulling threads
2. It depends on how loosely the fabric is woven and how strong the weft thread
is.
A. Slicing C. Pulling threads
B. Ripping D. Woven horizontal line
3. This tells that you can cut the width just by following the thread with your
eyes.
A. Slicing C. Ripping
B. Sighting D. Pulling threads
4. This process involves cutting the fabric following the weft thread
horizontally.
A. Woven horizontal line C. Square the fabric to a straight edge
B. Follow the pattern D. Straight of grain
5. This is the easiest method by which to cut on the straight of grain.
A. Sighting D. Pulling threads
B. Woven horizontal line C. Ripping

B. Enumeration:
Enumerates the different cutting techniques.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 33
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
ANSWER KEY 2.3-3
Multiple Choice:
1. A
2. C
3. B
4. D
5. B

Enumeration:
1. Straight of Grain
2. Follow the pattern
3. Square the fabric to a straight edge
4. Measure from the selvage edge.
5. Fold the fabric to obtain a straight edge.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 34
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Job Sheet 2.3-3
Title: Measuring, marking/tracing and cutting skills
Performance Objective: Given the materials and procedures, the trainee must
be able to perform measuring, marking/tracing and cutting skills.
Supplies: fabric pattern pieces pencils
Pins pin cushion Tracing paper
Equipment: tape measure scissors
Ruler tracing wheel
Meter stick cutting table
Cutting shears

Steps/Procedure:
1. Place your fabric on the cutting table.
2. Measure the pattern pieces at strategic points such as bust, waist and hips.
2. Align the pattern piece on your fabric as usual, being sure to align the
grainline. Hold the pattern piece in place with pins placed inside the pattern
piece, a few inches away from the size you are tracing.
3. Choose a carbon paper color that contrasts your fabric, so that you will be
able to see the lines you trace. Slip the carbon paper, color side down, under
the pattern piece.
4. Roll your tracing wheel along the pattern piece, rolling it along the line for
your size. If you’re working with a larger pattern piece, you’ll need to maneuver
the carbon paper around the edges, working one section at a time.
5. Trace the pattern markings, like notches and darts. You may have to move
the pins around a bit to get to any markings that go into the center of the
pattern piece.
6. Remove your pins. You should now have a nice outline of your pattern piece
right on the fabric.
7. Cut the fabric with proper alignment.
Assessment Method: Performance Criteria Checklist

Performance Criteria Checklist 2.3-3


Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 35
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Criteria Yes No
Did the trainee………
 Place the fabric on the cutting table properly
 Measure the pattern pieces at strategic points
 Properly align the pattern pieces on the fabric
 Place the tracing paper on the fabric properly
 Able to trace the pattern markings like darts and
notches
 Able to make an outline of pattern piece on the
fabric
 Cut the fabric with proper alignment

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 36
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
INFORMATION SHEET 2.3-4

PROCEDURE IN CUTTING OF MATERIALS

1. Prepare your fabric by following the manufacturer’s instructions for washing.


Allow the fabric to dry and iron any creases before cutting.
2. Follow the layout guide found on the paper pattern instructions, these will
show you how to position the paper pattern on the fabric depending on your
fabric’s width.

3. Fold your fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge which is the neat edge of the
fabric. Where the instructions say to place the paper pattern on the fold of the
fabric, place the paper section right up against the fold and pin in place.

4. When laying out the next pattern piece there’s a line called the grain line,
which has to run parallel with the grain of the fabric. To make sure the paper
pattern is in the right position, use a tape measure to measure that the line is
the same distance from the fold of the fabric all the way along.

5. To transfer the pattern notches to your fabric, mark the notches by cutting
an extra section out of the fabric to avoid snipping into your seam allowance.
For double notches, cut a wider one rather than two so it’s easily recognizable.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 37
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
6. If you have markings to transfer, push a pin through the center of the
marking and mark with dressmaker’s chalk, or a simple tailor’s tack with
contrasting thread and needle works well too.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 38
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Self-Check 2.3-4

True or False:

Write (T) if the statement is True and (F) if the statement is False.

__________1. Pre-washing of the fabric is necessary before cutting for sewing.

__________2. Ironing of the fabric is not important on the preparation before cutting

__________3. Grain line runs horizontally with the grain of the fabric.

__________4. Cutting an extra section of the fabric is another way of marking the
notches.

__________5. Use a pins in transferring the markings on the fabric.

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 39
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
ANSWER KEY 2.3-4

True or False:

1. T

2. F

3. F

4. T

5. T

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 40
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Task Sheet 2.3-4
Title : Procedure in cutting of materials
Performance Objective: Given the materials and procedures, the trainee must
be able to cut the fabric ready for sewing.

Supplies : prepared pattern pins dressmaker’s chalk


fabric pin cushion
tape measure scissors
Equipment : cutting table ironing board
flat iron hand spray
Steps/Procedure :
1. Prepare the fabric, iron the creases before cutting.
2. Fold the fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge, place the paper section right up
against the fold and pin in place.
3. Position the prepared pattern on the fabric depending the fabric’s width.
4. Lay out the pattern piece, grain line has to run parallel with the grain of the
fabric. Use a tape measure to ensure that the line is the same distance from
the fold of the fabric.
5. Transfer the pattern notches, mark the notches by cutting an extra section
out of the fabric to avoid snipping into the seam allowance.
6. Transfer the markings by pushing a pin through the center of the marking
and mark with dressmaker’s chalk.

Assessment Method : Performance Criteria Checklist

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 41
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel
Performance Criteria Checklist 2.3-4

Criteria Yes No
Did the trainee…….
 Prepare the fabric following the proper procedure
 Fold the fabric accurately
 Properly position the pattern on the fabric
 Transfer the pattern notches on the fabric
 Transfer the markings on the fabric
 Cut the fabric accurately

Document No.
Dressmaking NCII

Date Developed: Issued by:


P a g e | 42
Preparing and Cutting March 16, 2016 UB
Materials for Casual
Apparel

Das könnte Ihnen auch gefallen