How to sew a Rakusu

1 Copyright © Zen Community of Oregon 2014

 Rakusu instructions
1. Your Rakusu is an intricate and individual piece of work and should be made without
rushing. Please allow yourself plenty of time to enjoy making it, particularly if you are not
accustomed to sewing. It is very helpful to have a finished Rakusu in front of you while your
work.

2. Read all instructions carefully before you begin.

3. You will need: 1¼ yards black cloth

½ yard white cloth
½ yard white non-woven, non-fusible interfacing
1 wooden or plastic ring
26” length of green embroidery floss

Black thread
Sharp scissors
Pins
Sharp needle
White marker (available in fabric stores; looks like a pencil)
Ruler
Iron and ironing board

4. With the wrong side of the black fabric up (the right side has a diagonal twill pattern), iron
the fabric flat. When you need to iron on the right side, use a pressing cloth (a piece of cloth
between the iron and the cloth).

5. In the back of this book are pattern pieces and a cutting layout. Make enough copies of
pattern pieces A, B, C, and D that you don’t have to cut this book. You will need two pieces
each of A and C, four pieces of B, and one piece of D. These patterns give you the exact
measurements for cutting and folds for the center of your Rakusu. Be aware that A1 and A2
mirror each other, because of outside seams.

Black fabric: 1 piece A1 9” x 2”

1 piece A2 9” x 2”
4 pieces B 7” x 1-1/2”
2 pieces C 8” x 1”
1 piece D 8” x 2-3/4”
1 piece E 36” x 4-1/2”
1 piece F 14-1/2” x 4-1/2”
1 piece G 9” x 2”
1 piece H 45” x 4-1/2”
1 piece J 45” x 4-1/2”
1 piece K 10” x 4-1/2”
1 piece L 9” x 4-1/2”

Interfacing: 1 piece M 15-1/2” x 11-1/2”

1 piece N 10” x 4-1/2”

White cloth: 1 piece O 10” x 3-1/2”

1 piece P 12-1/2” x 9”

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 6. Refer to the cutting layout, and mark and check cutting lines for all pattern pieces
accurately on the wrong side of the cloth using a sharp white or lead pencil, before cutting
anything. You may mark lines using tracing paper with wheel (available in fabric stores) or
straight edge and a ruler. Start with piece J, including the selvege (finished edge) as part of the
piece. There are 16 pieces of black cloth, 2 pieces of white cloth, and 2 pieces of white non-
woven interfacing.

You may also make your own paper patterns for pieces E through L and arrange them on the
fabric with pieces A through D, so you get a sense of control before cutting.

Now cut all these pieces with sharp scissors, making square corners and very clean lines. You
will be using the seam allowances as your guide, so please be very precise.

7. All seams should be sewn by hand. Directions on how to make various stitches are on
page 11. Mark the seam allowances and folding lines of pieces A through D on the wrong side
of the fabric.

Now you will start sewing the rice field. Start by sewing the tucks on pieces C and D. To make a
tuck, bring right sides together, matching tuck lines. Pin in place, then stitch on line. Press the
tucks in the direction shown by the arrows on the pattern.

When you sew tucks in the A pieces, make sure that the first and third lines match the lines of
D, and the fourth line matches with the lower line of C.

8. Join pieces A, B, C, and D following stitching lines on the B pieces exactly.

Start with: B–D–B

Then: A1 – B – C (make sure horizontal lines match)
C – B – A2 (make sure horizontal lines match)
Then: Sew the three pieces together, lining up horizontal lines with a ruler first.
Then: Press the seam allowances toward the B pieces, and press your whole center
piece. You don’t need to cut off the uneven edges yet.

9. Lay sewn piece before you. Measure and mark with a pencil lightly, centered, on the right
side, a rectangle 10” x 6¼”.

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 10. On interfacing piece M, pin and press a 1” fold on all 4 sides, so that the folded cloth
measures exactly 9½” x 13¼”. You might have to adjust the fold so that the cloth measures
these dimensions precisely. Interfacing fabric melts at a lower temperature than cotton, so be
careful your iron isn’t too hot.

11. Place the finished center section (A-D) in the middle of the interfacing piece M, so there is a
1-5/8” space between the pencil line and each folded edge on the interfacing. Pin, then baste
outside of the pencil lines with small stitches. Press.

12. Now turn the piece over and place the white cloth piece P in the middle, so there is about
¼” between the raw edges of P and the folded edge of the interfacing. Pin. Baste with small
stitches ¼” away from the edge of P. Press.

13. Press border piece E exactly in half lengthwise, right side out, then press both raw edges
inside so that it measures 1¾ ” all the way along.

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 14. Starting at the top left corner, tuck the border piece E around the folded edge of the
interfacing, ending at the top right corner. Pin as you go, making sure that the edge of the
interfacing fits very snugly into the crease of the border. Do not worry about the corners yet.
Just keep the edge and the crease together. The folded edge of the border E should overlap
your pencil line on the center section by 1/8”. Does it look like this diagram? Is the center
section the right way up?

15. Now the corners: on the front, fold the excess cloth inside, under the side edges. You will
have to un-pin a little to get the fold to lie neatly, then re-pin. Do the inner edges meet at 90
degrees? Pin in place. On the back, fold the excess cloth under the bottom edge, to distribute
the thickness evenly.

16. Baste inner and outer edges of the border, taking care not to shift the frame edge from the
crease of the border.

17. Slip-stitch the inner edge of the border and the corners on the front first. Your stitches
should pick up the interfacing but not come through to the back. Then turn it over and stitch the
back in the same way. Press carefully. Trim off raw edges of E so that they are in line with the
top edge of the Rakusu.

18. Press piece F in the same way as you did E. Fold it over the top edge of the Rakusu, again
making sure it is a snug fit. Pin. Baste. Tuck the ends of F neatly inside themselves with the
excess cloth folded towards the back of the Rakusu. Slip-stitch the front first, then the back.

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 19. On piece G, right side up, press under ½” from the edge, along the length of the cloth. On
the other edge, press under ¼” from the edge.

20. Fold G over the top edge of the Rakusu, so that ¼” shows in front and 2” shows in back. Is
it centered?

21. Pin G to F, folding in the ends neatly, at a right angle in the front and forming a slant in the
back. Press. Baste. Slip-stitch. If you wish, stab-stitch through all layers to give the edge a firm
finish.

22. Next are the straps. Fold pieces J, H, and L lengthwise, right sides together. Pin raw edges
together and stitch ½” from raw edges, leaving one end open on all three pieces. Trim seam to
¼” and clip corners. Turn with the aid of a ruler or a chopstick. Use a pin to ensure sharp,
square corners. Press.

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 23. Pin K and N together and baste the long sides 1/4” from raw edges, allowing K to be a
fraction looser than N. This is because K has to fit around N. Fold in ½” on each side and press.
(It is easier to get these pieces to sit flat if you baste one side, then press seam allowances
down, then baste the other side.)

24. Fold under ¼” on long sides of piece O and press. Pin O to K/N so hat ¼” of K shows on
either side of O. Baste, then slip-stitch. Fold down raw ends ½” and press. Mark center of each
side with a pin.

25. Pin the finished ends of J and H to the top edge of the Rakusu, on the left as you look at it
(see diagram on page 1). The seamed edge of the strap should be towards the center of the
Rakusu. Stitch them securely from the back o the top edge of the Rakusu without coming
through to the front. Pin H and L in place on the right, in the same manner..

26. Draw he raw edges of J and L through the Rakusu ring and pin to get an impression of how
it will look.

27. Now try it on and check in the mirror. The bottom edge of the Rakusu should come to
approximately 4” below your navel when you are standing up. If it is too long, shorten the straps
on your left side. Place your hands in shashu to help you judge. Make straps look like the
diagram on page 1. When you are satisfied, pin straps firmly in place.

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 28. Fold the Rakusu in half to find the exact center back point of the straps. Mark the center
back on both straps with a pencil. Fold the raw edges of piece K over the straps, lining up the
center points and pin. Cross-stitch the raw ends of K to the straps and place both sides
together, so the straps are sandwiched inside K. Slip-stitch folded edges together. Press.

29. Fold the edges of piece L, one over the other, to the front, and stitch invisibly but firmly
through all layers. Press well. Stitch L to the Rakusu in the same manner as the other straps.
Draw the other end of L through the ring. The strap should measure 1½” from the edge of the
ring to the top of the rectangle. Cut off any extra and finish the raw end of the strap neatly. (You
can tuck in the ends and slip-stitch it closed, or whip-stitch the ends together.) Now stitch the
strap end to the top edge of the Rakusu at the back.

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 30. Finish raw end of H and sew it on to the Rakusu in the same manner as the other straps.
Finish raw end of J and tie it to the right. It make take several tries to get the knot to sit at the
right length. It will hold itself in place if you pull the strap taut after tying it. Usually it is not
stitched.

31. Lastly, stitch the broken pine-twig. Thread your needle with green embroidery floss and
practice on a spare piece of cloth. If you like, mark the main points with a pencil to guide you.
The design should look as pleasing on the back as on the front. The numbers on the diagram
indicate in which order to stitch. Stitch through all layers. Press carefully.

Actual size of pine twig:

Stitch from between the layers up at point 0 on the right side.

Then make a single stitch down through all layers to the back at point 1.
Stitch from the back up to the right side at point 0.
Stitch from the right side to the back at point 2.
Stitch from the back up to the right side at point 3.
Stitch from the right side to the back at point 2.
Stitch from the back up to the right side at point 0.
Stitch from the right side to the back at point 4.
Stitch from the back up to the right side at point 0.
Stitch from the right side to the back at point 5.
Stitch from the back up to the right side at point 0.
Stitch from the right side to the back at point 6.
Stitch from the back to the right at point 0 but not all the way through.
Hide a knot between layers.

32. You have finished your Rakusu. Gassho.

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 Stitches used to make your Rakusu
Basting stitch
The basting stitch is used to hold pieces
temporarily in place. The stitch should not
be seen after final stitching. The stitch
length can be ¼”.
Step stitch (aka back stitch)
Use the step stitch to sew your Rakusu
together unless otherwise noted in the
instructions. Pass the needle up through the
fabric from underneath, then down going
backward about 1/8”. Next stitch up about
¼” forward. When you stitch down
backwards again, pass the needle through
the same hole you made for the previous
up- stitch.
Whip stitch
Use this stitch to finish raw edges. Use
closely-spaced, even stitches.
10
10
Blind stitch
Use the blind stitch when you don’t want the
stitches to be seen, such as when you sew
E to the center piece. Fold or iron your
edges precisely. Start by stitching up, hiding
the knot under the fold of the first piece.
Stitch directly across from the first piece to
the second piece, guide the needle along
the inside of the fold of the second piece
about ¼”, and back out again. Then stitch
straight back down into the first piece,
advance another ¼”, and repeat.
Cross stitch
The cross stitch is used to sew the straps
the piece K together. It is also a nice
application stitch for the edge of the Rakusu
envelope. If this is too complicated for you,
you may also use a step-stitch for this.
Come from the back to the front. Stitch
diagonally across, back ¼”, then diagonally
across again. Hide knots underneath.
Stab stitch
Make small, evenly-spaced stitches going
through all layers.
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 11

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 Stitching line
Cutting line

C
D C2
Cut
Cut 1 Cut 2

Press tucks in the direction shown by arrows.

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 Stitching line
Cutting line

C
D C2
Cut
Cut 1 Cut 2

Press tucks in the direction shown by arrows.

13 Copyright © Zen Community of Oregon 2014