Production manual for red raspberry

production in North Atlantic region

– outdoor, polytunnel and
greenhouse

Dag Røen

Njøs næringsutvikling AS - Report No. 6

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PREFACE

This production manual is developed as a part of the project ATLANTBERRY (Expanding berry
production in the North Atlantic region). The ATLANTBERRY project is funded by Nordic
Atlantic Cooperation (NORA); Samband Garðyrkjubænda, Development Centre of South Iceland
and Rannsóknamiðstöð Íslands (Iceland); L/F Meginfelag Búnaðarmanna and Faroese Research
Council (Faroe Islands); Grønlandsbankens Erhvervsfond and Kommun Kujalleq (Greenland).

The aim of the ATLANTBERRY project is to form the base for a commercial production of
berries in plastic tunnels in Iceland, Faroe Islands and Greenland. The long term objective is a
future supply of the domestic market in these countries with locally produced fresh berries.
Within the project are established test tunnels and test plantings of raspberries (Iceland and
Faroe Islands) and strawberries (all 3 countries).

This production manual focuses on production of berries for the fresh fruit market, and is
based on the production methods in use in Norway. Red raspberry production for fresh
market in Norway has developed very fast during the last few years. Highly professional
production systems are established, and a major part of the fresh market production is in
polytunnels. When expanding the production to Iceland and Faroe Islands as well as to the
coastal and northern areas of Norway, the major challenges are strong wind, duration and
temperature of growth season. Experience from the Atlantberry production indicates that
reinforced polytunnels can be used at sheltered locations in Iceland while stronger
constructions (greenhouses) are needed at Faroe Islands. A commercial production of red
raspberries seems to have potential in both countries, and is actually already established in
Iceland. We do not yet know for certain if a raspberry production in unheated greenhouse
will be possible at Greenland.

Thank you to Torbjørn Takle for valuable corrections to the manuscript and to Torbjørn
Takle, Nina Heiberg, Pål Alvereng and Jon Anders Stavang for use of photos.

Leikanger March 18 2013

Dag Røen
Njøs næringsutvikling AS

Version 3b - updated 26 April 2013

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CONTENT

Growth and development .......................................................................................................... 4

Cultivars ...................................................................................................................................... 5
Restrictions on cultivars ............................................................................................................. 6
Clean plant material ................................................................................................................... 7
Pollination................................................................................................................................... 7
Production systems .................................................................................................................... 7
Soil and climate .......................................................................................................................... 9
Water ........................................................................................................................................ 11
Fertilizer.................................................................................................................................... 11
Plant material and planting ...................................................................................................... 14
Support system......................................................................................................................... 14
Diseases .................................................................................................................................... 22
Pests ......................................................................................................................................... 26
Weed control ............................................................................................................................ 28
Chemicals used for controlling diseases, pests and weeds ..................................................... 29
Harvesting and taking care of the berries ................................................................................ 29
Things to do during the season ................................................................................................ 30
Litterature................................................................................................................................. 30

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GROWTH AND DEVELOPMENT
In summer fruiting raspberries the shoots have a two year cycle. In the first season the
shoots grow vegetative during spring and summer, form flower buds in autumn and then
enter physiological dormancy. Leaves then fall off. Dormancy is broken by low temperatures
(0-7 °C most effective)) and when temperature rises in spring the bud bursts and develop
into laterals with flowers and berries. By end of the second season these shoots die. In our
climate the physiological dormancy is normally broken in early winter, but bud burst will not
take place until temperature rises in spring. Elevated temperature during winter can result in
too early bud break, and if this is followed by low temperatures severe frost damage may
occur.

Growth termination and flower bud initiation in summer fruiting raspberries are governed
by an interaction between temperature and day length. Cultivars may however respond
somewhat differently. 'Glen Ample' plants kept at 18 °C and 21 °C grows vegetative
regardless of day length. At 15 °C they initiate flower buds at day length less than 15 hours,
and at 12 °C and lower they initiate flower buds regardless of day length. In Southern
Norway flower bud development typically starts by end of August, with main period for
flower bud differentiation during September. Plants of the cultivars we grow will typically
need around 2000 hours of temperatures between 0 °C and 7 °C for breaking dormancy
completely. A raspberry shoot can grow to more than 4 meters if kept continuously at 20-25
°C with good water and nutrient supply.

Figure 1. Red raspberry production in polytunnel by Olav Gjerde, Leikanger, Norway. Photo:
Dag Røen

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High yield on a shoot of a summer fruiting cultivar is achieved with a combination of:
- Optimal conditions for shoot growth during the first summer.
- A cool autumn that combined with short day length gives good flower bud production.
- Sufficient cooling during winter to completely break dormancy also on buds on the lower
part of the shoots.
- Optimal conditions for the shoots in the fruiting year.

First year canes are called primocanes, and flowering and fruiting canes the second year are
called floricanes. The side shoots with flower and fruits in second year are called laterals.

CULTIVARS
Only cultivars suited for fresh consumption are mentioned here. Raspberry cultivars for fresh
consumption should have fruits that are firm with a good appearance and taste. By
production in tunnels the cultivar used must have proven that it performs well under cover.
Some cultivars may be good when grown outside, but does not thrive when grown under
plastic.

‘Glen Ample’ is a cultivar from James Hutton Institute (JHI) that is dominating in raspberry
production in Norway today, and the introduction of this cultivar was one of the factors
behind the rapid increase of production for fresh market during the last decade. It is spine-
free and productive with large, firm and nice looking berries that taste quite good. It is well
adapted to production in plastic tunnels. ‘Glen Ample’ has long laterals, which means that
the number of floricanes per m row and number of buds above the wire should be reduced a
bit compared to cultivars with shorter laterals. The wire can then be somewhat higher to
ensure sufficient number of laterals to keep the yield up. ‘Glen Ample’ is very susceptible to
raspberry leaf and bud mite (Eriophyes gracilis) and special care must be taken to control
this pest. ‘Glen Ample’ is produced in plastic tunnels at Grytøya in Troms, Norway, and has
during the Atlantberry project performed well in tunnels and unheated greenhouses in
Southern Iceland.

‘Glen Fyne’ is a new cultivar from JHI that is very productive with firm fruits with size and
shelf life comparable with ‘Glen Ample’. The taste is better than for 'Glen Ample'. The canes
are spine-free. The cultivar is being tested in tunnels at Iceland within the Atlantberry
project.

‘Tulameen’ is a cultivar from Canada that has been grown for fresh market due to good
taste. The fruits are medium sized and not as firm as the fruits of ‘Glen Ample’. In outdoor
production in Norway, fruit quality has been very good some years but only mediocre other
years. It is quite productive, but can get some damage due to winter frost. Experiences are
that it does not survive temperatures below -14 °C. It can have potential for use in heated
greenhouse production in the North Atlantic region.

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Figure 2. ‘Glen Ample’(upper left), ‘Tulameen’ (upper right), and ‘Varnes’ (lower left). Lower
right: ‘Varnes’ and ‘Glen Ample’ grown organically at Helgeland, Nordland, Norway. Photos:
Dag Røen (upper left and right, lower left) and Nina Heiberg (lower right).

‘Varnes’ is an apricot-coloured cultivar from Graminor, Norway. The fruits are quite large,
have nice appearance and taste but are not as firm as the fruits of ‘Glen Ample’. It is rather
susceptible to winter frost and very susceptible to raspberry root rot. The canes are thorny.
In market stands and shops, a mixture of red and yellow raspberries looks very attractive.
‘Varnes’ has a potential in this concept. ‘Varnes’ has performed well under a plastic roof, but
we do not have experience with this cultivar grown in plastic tunnels. The cultivar is being
tested in tunnels at Iceland within the Atlantberry project.

RESTRICTIONS ON CULTIVARS
Most new cultivars are protected by Plant Breeders Rights (PBR). This is a system that makes
it possible for the breeders to get royalties on their cultivars to finance the breeding. The
breeder applies for PBR within a country or a region (e.g. EU). Then only licensed nurseries
are allowed to produce plants of the cultivar in question. Faroe Islands and Greenland are in
this respect regarded as member of EU (through Denmark), and a cultivar protected in EU is
then also protected in Faroe Islands and Greenland. Licensed plant producers with EU as
territory can then sell plants to Faroe Islands and Greenland. For Norway and Iceland the
situation is different. Both countries have a national law on Plant Breeders Rights. In Norway
you have to apply separately for PBR in Norway, as PBR in EU is not valid for Norway. Iceland
has however so far not decided the details on how to use their law in practice. They are at
the moment working on putting up this legislation. As long as this is not in place it is difficult
to establish a licensed production of plants at Iceland. And at the moment no license holders
for e.g. 'Glen Ample' are allowed to sell plants to Iceland, as it is not part of their territory.
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Regarding 'Glen Ample', Graminor has been promised that they can include Iceland in their
territory as soon as the Icelandic legislation is up working. Graminor can then grant sub-
license for production of plants at Iceland. The plants being tested during the Atlantberry
project are protected by test agreements. The tester then can't propagate, sell nor give away
material of the test cultivars.

CLEAN PLANT MATERIAL

It is very important to start a berry production with true-to-type plants that are free from
important viruses, diseases and pests. Plants from a certified plant production system should
then be preferred. If a within country production of plants is established at e.g. Iceland (see
chapter on restrictions on cultivars), this plant production should start with elite material
from an Elite Plant Station, e.g. Sagaplant AS in Norway. At Sagaplant viruses, virus- like
organisms and bacteria are eliminated by heat therapy and meristem culture and the plant
material is tested and approved by the Norwegian Food Safety Authority. Sagaplant produce
propagation stock of strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, redcurrants and blackcurrants.

POLLINATION
Red raspberry cultivars are normally self-fertile, but for some cultivars number of drupelets
per berry will be increased by cross-pollination. 'Glen Ample' is considered fully self fertile,
with no need for additional pollination cultivars. Pollinating insects are needed to give a full
yield of well developed berries. It is recommended to make efforts on increasing number of
honeybees and bumblebees with additional honeybee or bumblebee hives. It is also possible
to put up "insect hotels" to increase population of wild honeybees and bumblebees.

Sufficient boron (B) in the plants is important in order to secure good pollination (pollen
germination and growth of pollen tube). Leaf fertilizing with boron before flowering and in
autumn is recommended.

Figure 3. Bee hives near raspberry tunnels in Norway (left) and bumblebee hive in raspberry
tunnel at Iceland (right). Photos: Dag Røen.

PRODUCTION SYSTEMS
Summer fruiting raspberries can be grown using several systems. The traditional system is to
produce crop for several years on the same plants planted in soil. With good plant material,
early planting and good conditions for growth, a first yield can be harvested the year after
planting, but full yield will be from the second year after planting. The same system can be

7
used for plants in pots, but potted plants are more susceptible to frost damage, and the
roots must be protected against low temperatures either at the production place or by
storing the plants in a cold store during winter. Summer fruiting raspberries can also be put
into a system with yield every second year. All new shoots are then removed in the yield
years. This gives a more open hedge, reduces competition for nutrients within the plant and
picking capacity is improved.

Long cane plants are plants with fully grown primocanes that are ready for production and
will give a full yield in the planting year. They can be kept in cold store and put in tunnel /
greenhouse at different times during spring, making it possible with a programmed
prolonged harvest season. Long cane plants are produced one year, topped and then
delivered for fruit production the following year. From the day the plants are put into a
heated greenhouse it normally takes 35-50 days until you have the first flower buds, 75-95
days until the first ripe berries, and 110-150 days until end of harvest. The best development
of flower buds in long cane production is achieved if plants are kept at 10-15 °C in autumn
(September- mid October in Southern Norway) and then temperature is gradually decreased
to outdoor temperature in order to assure good growth cessation and hardening. The canes
should be at least 2.4 m by growth cessation and topped at 1,8 to 2 m. If long canes are put
into heated greenhouse in February, yield will be harvested in May-June. An early
production of raspberries on long canes can then be combined with a second late yield on a
new set of long cane plants (harvesting September-October) or by production of new long
canes for the next season by taking up new shoots from the plants that were harvested on.
Only one shoot should then be left in a 3.5 L pot and 1-2 shoots in larger pots. All other
shoots must be removed at several times (easiest to remove when less than 7-8 cm high).
The same root/pot should not be used for more than two seasons with long canes as yield
then will be reduced. The best production is achieved when starting with new plants every
time. By autumn production with long canes additional light can be necessary by end of
season to secure fruit quality (sugar content). Long canes for early spring yield should have
lost all leaves in November and then be stored at optimum temperatures for dormancy
breakage outdoor, in a tunnel, a greenhouse or a cold store. Long canes that are planned
used for an autumn yield must be stored in a cold store. By starting at 2 °C and gradually
decreasing temperature to -2 °C, the canes can be kept in cold store until June.

Primocane (autumn fruiting) cultivars produce flower and fruits on the primocanes. As their
fruits ripen later than the summer fruiting cultivars, they are used for prolonging the
raspberry season. They need a longer season than summer fruiting cultivars. In southern
Norway, the earliest ripening primocane cultivars can be grown in tunnel. In a climate with
even lower summer temperatures, such cultivars can only be grown in greenhouses with
some additional heating. By production of primocane raspberries, all shoots are normally
removed after each season. A new yield is sometimes taken on the same canes (as
floricanes) the year after harvesting on primocanes, but this yield is lower than the yield on
ordinary floricanes on summer fruiting cultivars.

In Norway, raspberries grown on raised beds covered with black woven plastic (e.g. Mypex)
is dominating by outdoor and tunnel production. The raised beds improve drainage, thereby
reducing problems connected with water-logging (poor growth and root diseases). The black
plastic mulch reduces weed problem drastically and makes thinning out of new shoots

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easier. During summer the black plastic also increase the soil temperature. It is
recommended to melt the planting holes in the plastic as the edges of the hole then are
stronger than when using a knife to cut holes in the plastic. The melting can be done directly
with a propane flame, but that is risky as the plastic may start to burn. A kind of iron heated
by a propane flame is safer. The holes should be oval or rectangular 20x30cm.

Figure 4. Raspberries planted on raised beds covered with black plastic mulch. The picture is
from organic test production of raspberries in tunnel by Ingólfur Guðnason, Iceland. Photo:
Dag Røen.

A production manual in Norwegian for raspberry production in heated greenhouses is

written by Bioforsk (see link for download in literature list, Stavang & Tellevik 2011). This
production method is under testing and development at Bioforsk Særheim, and several
modifications in recommendations are expected during the following years.

SOIL AND CLIMATE

A well drained soil is very important when growing raspberries. In waterlogged soil raspberry
roots develop poorly, resulting in strongly reduced shoot growth and plants that do not
thrive. Places with standing water in rainy periods should be completely avoided. Moreover,
good drainage is of outmost importance in order to reduce problems with raspberry root rot
and other Phytophthora. Growing on a raised bed (30-50 cm high) is strongly recommended.
When growing raspberries in pots, a coarse peat mixed with 25 % Perlite is recommended to
provide good aeration in the root zone.

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Optimum pH for raspberries is between 5.6 and 6.0. Outside the optimum pH range,
availability of several macronutrients (too low pH) and micronutrients (too high pH) is
reduced.

Dormancy in raspberry is usually broken in early winter. Frost damage to buds can then
occur at different periods during winter and early spring. Mild periods during winter
followed by a frost period can result in severe frost damage, as the buds start to break
during the mild period and then get more susceptible to frost damage. In early spring, high
day temperatures in combination with night frost can also result in frost damage on buds.
Frost damage causing dead buds is easy to detect during bud burst. Secondary buds can
sometimes replace the dead bud and produce a good lateral. Frost damage on the
conductive tissue in the shoot quite often will not show until later in the season. Bud burst
and lateral development is as normal in spring and early summer, but then leaves on
floricanes turns chlorotic (yellow), and fruit size, yield and fruit quality can be strongly
reduced. Repeated sprays with urea and Croplift can help reduce the damage.

An early snowfall before leaf drop in autumn can cause cane breakage, especially if canes are
not thinned out, topped and tied up properly before the snowfall.

By production in greenhouse or tunnel, one should open windows, doors or tunnel sides for
ventilation when temperature reaches 23 -25 °C.

Figure 5. Raspberry production in plastic tunnels on 68 °N at Grytøya, Norway. Photo: Pål

Alvereng

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WATER
The raspberry plant has a shallow root system and is susceptible to drought. A sufficient
water supply all through the season is necessary to achieve good yields. It is especially
important to have sufficient water during fruit development. On the other hand one must
always avoid water logging that will dramatically affect root and plant growth and increase
risk of problems with root diseases.

Drip irrigation is recommended. Sprinkler irrigation can increase problems with cane
diseases as well as grey mould on the berries. When growing in pots, one drip per plant is
normally sufficient. With more than one drip removal of new shoots is more complicated,
and it is more difficult to discover tight nozzles.

Watermark sensors can be used for monitoring water levels in soil. They should be placed at
30-45 cm depth within the plant hedge, not too close to the drip nozzles, and kept
permanent at the same location throughout the season. Watermark reads (centibars) can be
interpreted as this:
0-10 Soil fully saturated with water
10-30 Optimum level of water in soil for plants
30-60 Watering needed (should start watering already at level 20)
100-200 Drought

Use of Watermark sensors can give additional information, but cannot replace visual
monitoring of plant and soil and use of common sense. It is recommended to dig into the soil
with a spade to see how the water movement in your soil actually is. Any layers in the soil
will disturb the water movement, and a top layer will usually be fully saturated with water
before the water drains down to the next layer. This is also valid when a dense soil is on top
of a soil with larger particles, contradictory to what one would expect.

FERTILIZER
Raspberry is a chlorine sensitive species, and only low-chlorine fertilizer must be used.

A soil analysis should be taken in autumn the year before planting as a base for liming and
fertilizing by planting. If magnesium levels are low, a dolomite lime is recommended for
liming.

The growth rates of new shoots (2 m long shoots by end of season is optimal) as well as the
colour of leaves on floricanes are strong indicators on whether the fertilizer level (especially
on nitrogen) is correct. If leaves on floricanes start to yellow, it can be a result of winter
damage. Then leaf fertilizing with N (urea) is the most effective mean.

Results from analysis of leaf samples gathered in end of August will indicate nutrient state in
the plants. One recommendation on optimum level of some nutrients in raspberry leaves
end of August is given in table 1.

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Table 1. Suggested optimum level of nutrients in raspberry leaves gathered end of August.
N (%) P (%) K (%) Mg (%) Ca (%) Zn (ppm) B (ppm) Mn (ppm)
2,8-3,2 0,2-0,3 1,2-1,8 0,2-0,4 1,0-1,5 20-70 35-80 35-150

The levels of nutrients in leaves will vary a lot during season, and therefore it is important to
gather the leaf samples at the right time. Optimum levels in leaves gathered at other times
during growth season are not established.

Collection of leaf sample: Collect 2 undamaged leaves with 10 cm petiole from 10

representative primocanes, from the center of the upper third part of the cane and upwards.
The leaves should be put in a paper bag and sent immediately for analysis. If one can dry the
leaves before sending that is even better. The drying should be done at 60 °C until leaves are
completely dry (24-48 hours). Several laboratories can perform leaf analysis, e.g. Eurofins
http://www.eurofins.no/vare-tjenester/landbruk/hagebruk-og-veksthusnaering.aspx .

A raspberry plant produces much growth every year, and has high demands on nutrient
supply. In yielding years a standard need is suggested of 8-12 kg N, 2 kg P and 6-8 kg K per
daa. Need of N can be higher (9-15 kg N per daa) on sandy soils. Strong competition from
grass in the aisle (no herbicide strip along the plastic mulch) also increases need of N
fertilizer.

Before planting, a NPK fertilizer or 3-5 tons of manure per daa can be used as a base
fertilizer. It is also recommended to give 1.5-2.0 kg borax or 1.1-1.5 kg Solubor per daa as
basic boron fertilizing before planting.

In established plantings, fertilizer can be given as basic spring NPK fertilizing by growth start
(usually in April) in combination with either a supplementary fertilizing two times with
calcium-nitrate, in end of May and Mid-June, or with fertigation with alternating water-
soluble NPK fertilizer and calcium-nitrate.

Basic spring NPK fertilizer should be given so early that the fertilizer has time to be dissolved
by rain water before the plastic is put on the tunnels. In tunnels fertigation must be used
later in season as it is difficult to get supplementary fertilizer given on the ground
suffieciently dissolved in the tunnels.

When calculating how much fertilizer to give by fertigation, start with deciding how much
total N you want to give per daa. Then subtract the amount N given as basic NPK fertilizer in
spring. The remaining N is to be given as fertigation and must be distributed on the number
of weeks you plan to fertigate.

In Norway fertigation is usually given in the period week 22 - week 32 outdoor, in tunnels
one may have to start 3-4 weeks earlier depending on when plastic is put on. By fertigation
in first part of season a NPK fertilizer with high level of nitrogen is used, e.g. Kristalon Indigo
(="Superba Rød") from Yara (N:P:K = 8.5:5:25) or Kækkila superex bær (N:P:K = 14:4:27).
During fruit development one should change to a fertilizer with less N, e.g. can "Kristalon
Brown" (= "Superba Gul") from Yara be used (N:P:K = 3:5:31.5). The increased K supply
during fruit development will improve quality / taste of the berries. It is common to

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alternate between a NPK fertilizer and calcium-nitrate (e.g. Calcinit from Yara with 15.5 % N)
in the first part of summer (until end of June outdoor).

By fertigation, concentrated stock solutions are made in large plastic bins, and a fertilizer
injector used for adding the fertilizer to the drip irrigation water. Separate stock solutions
must be made for calcium-nitrate and the NPK-fertilizer to avoid sediments. A maximum
concentration of 15-20 % in stock solutions is recommended.

Concentration given at the nozzles should be checked by a conduction meter. You can test
the concentration by giving a 1 % mixture (1 l stock solution per 100 l water). Check with a
conductivity meter at some nozzles, a conductivity of 1.0 is too low and 2.0 too high. Adjust
concentration to a conductivity level around 1.5. Actually, the conductivity level should
preferably be adjusted according to watering need of plants, from 0.5 in dry periods to 1.5 in
periods with low need for water. After fertigation, clean water should always be run through
the system to avoid sediments causing tight nozzles.

Several leaf fertilizers are available for spraying on leaves when needed.
- Especially in years where floricanes are weakened by frost, spraying with 0.5 % urea will
help maintain N levels in the canes. This can be repeated 3-4 times during fruit development.
Combining the urea spray with Croplift (see below) is often beneficial.
- Croplift (Yara) is a leaf fertilizer with a broad specter of nutrient compounds (N, P, K, Mg, S,
B, Se, Cu, Fe, Mn, Mo, Zn, Cu) that can be used (400 ml / 100 l) whenever the plant is
stressed. A combination of urea and Croplift spray is often beneficial.
- Sufficiently high level of boron (B) is very important in raspberries. In addition to giving 1.1-
1.5 kg per daa Solubor or 1.5-2.0 kg per daa borax (disodiumtertraborate) by planting and
every second year later on (alternatively using calcium nitrate fertilizer with boron), 0.2 %
Solubor or 0.2 % Bortrac (Yara) can be given as leaf fertilizers just before flowering.
- When pH is over 5.8 raspberry plant can get too little manganese (Mn). When you see
symptoms of manganese deficiency (chlorosis between nerves on leaves a bit down on
primocanes), you can spray with 0.25 % manganese sulphate or 0.2 % Mantrac (Yara).
- If leaf samples show that calcium (Ca) level is too low, you can spray next season with a
calcium leaf fertilizer, e.g. 0.5 % Caltrac ZB (contains also Zn and B). Soft berries can be an
indication on too low calcium levels. Too much available potassium (K) can result in too low
calcium and magnesium (Mg) levels. Adjustment of potassium fertilizing may then help. But
it is important to have enough K available during fruit development to secure fruit quality.
- Resistim (N:P:K = 0:7:11) or Resistart (N:P:K = 6:4:7) are leaf fertilizers that have a
preventive effect on raspberry root rot, and should be used on raspberry plants on infected
locations (see details under raspberry root rot later). They can also be given through the
fertigation system, at 0,5 l per daa, repeated several times.

In organic production, an early spring basic fertilization with granulated chicken manure can
be combined with fertigation with liquid organic fertilizer (e.g. Vadheim Groplex 2-1-5,
Pioner Complete 6-1-3 or Pioner Hi-Fruit 4-1-5). It is important that the chicken manure is
given so early that you get sufficient rain to dissolve the fertilizer in early spring.

13
PLANT MATERIAL AND PLANTING
In soil a planting distance within row of 0.50 m is recommended, for 'Glen Ample' 0.60 m can
be used. By outdoor production a distance of 3.5 m between rows is recommended, but
again this can be increased to 4.0 m on 'Glen Ample' due to long laterals. Row distance must
be adjusted to tractor and equipment that will be used in the planting. When growing in
tunnel and greenhouse, size of house as well as tractor and equipment size must be taken
into consideration. In greenhouse production with long canes (not Gjerde trellis), row
distance can be reduced to 2.3-2.5 m.

Potted plants or bare rooted plants can be used. Potted plants should be 10-20 cm high in
good growth and should be planted immediately. They should be watered with 0.3 %
calcium-nitrate (30 g calcium-nitrate in 10 l water) before planting. By planting, make sure
that the peat lump is well covered by soil to avoid drying out. Potted plants are usually
available in Norway by end of May. Bare rooted plants should be planted in early spring.

Best yields on long canes are achieved when new long cane plants are produced every year
from new roots or small plants, rather than producing long canes on the same plant two
years or using roots from the old long cane plants for producing new plants.

Figure 6. High quality potted plants ready for planting. Photo: Torbjørn Takle.

SUPPORT SYSTEM
A support system for the raspberry canes is necessary. In Norway the "Gjerde method",
based on a crossarm trellis, is dominating. By this method, primocanes are not interfering so
much with the floricanes and laterals during berry harvest season, making management of
hedge and harvesting easier, and making it possible to increase yields by increasing number
of floricanes per m row. Split poles of wood (2 m long) are put up at 4 m distance in the row
with 0.40 m of the pole into the soil. It is very important that the end poles of the row are
well anchored. A 90 cm long crossarm is fastened at 1.60 m height on each pole, the pole

14
with the crossarm forming a "T". On each crossarm there are holes for the steel or polyester
wire at two positions, an inner position for use during winter and spring and an outer
position for use from start of flowering until after harvest. The holes are drilled in the wood
and a bevel cut sawed from the upper edge of the crossarm down to the hole in such a way
that the wire can be easily moved from inner to outer position during season. Another
option is to use plastic clips screwed on top of the crossarm.

Figure 7. The Gjerde method for training raspberries. Figure from Øydvin, 1986.

Thin cultivars with long laterals (e.g. 'Glen Ample') to 6 shoots per m row in early spring. That
is 3 shoots per m wire giving 30-35 cm distance between canes on each of the two wires. For
cultivars with shorter laterals, 8 shoots per m row can be used (4 shoots per m wire, 25 cm
between shoots on each wire). Outdoor the canes of cultivars with short laterals are then
normally topped 3-4 buds above the crossarm. Keeping more buds can result in wind
breakage. Cultivars with long laterals (e.g. 'Glen Ample') is usually topped two buds above
the crossarm, to avoid the top from hanging out over the hedge when fruits ripen, as this
will delay harvesting.

15
Figure 8. Raspberry plants in overwintering stage (top) and after final thinning of shoots in
early spring (bottom). From tunnel production of raspberries with Gjerde method of training,
by Olav Gjerde, Leikanger, Norway. Photos: Dag Røen.

16
During spring and summer it is important to thin the new shoots several times. All new
shoots should be in the center of the hedge, between the two rows of floricanes. Any shoots
outside the hedge should be removed.

Figure 9. Old shoots removed immediately after harvest. From tunnel production of
raspberries by Sognabær, Vangsnes, Norway. Photo: Dag Røen.

Old shoots are often removed directly after finished harvesting. This will reduce problem
with cane diseases, and the hired pickers can be used to do this job. Overwintering of new
canes is however improved if the old shoots are kept longer in autumn, as assimilates then
are transported from the old canes to the root increasing the hardiness of the plant. So the
optimum time for removal of old shoots is a decision that must balance improved winter
hardiness with actual disease and pest problems at your location. With heavy disease and
infection pressure, old shoots should be removed early. After removal of old shoots, thin out
new shoots to 8-10 shoots per m row for plants grown in soil (8-9 for 'Glen Ample'). Keep the
strongest shoots, remove the weakest ones. The removed canes should preferably be taken
out of the field in order to reduce infection pressure of diseases, insects and mites.

As late as possible in the autumn (October) top the new shoots to 40-50 cm above the wire
(they will be further topped next spring). It is recommended to "tie" the two wires together
with plastic clips at several spots between the poles to avoid damage by wind and snow.

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Figure 10. Raspberry production in pots in tunnel by Gisli Jóhannsson, Iceland. White plastic
on ground improves light conditions in the lower part of the canopy. Photo: Dag Røen.

When growing in pots, 3.5 L pots can be used, but need closer following up regarding
watering than when using larger pots (e.g. 5 L or 7 L). There is room for 7 pots of 7 L per m
row when put in bond (xxxxxxx) or 5 pots of 3.5 L per m row in single row (xxxxx). In pots you
should keep 1 shoot per plant for fruit production.

By long cane production, as well as every second year production on floricane cultivars and
production with primocane cultivars, there is no interference between primocanes and
floricanes in the hedge. A narrower hedge system without crossarms can then be used. All
new shoots must be removed several times during the season.

In greenhouse production plants can be higher than outdoor or in tunnel. Given the limited
light during autumn in the North Atlantic region, we do not yet know how much increasing
plant height will influence fruit quality. The pickers then also need some kind of ladder or
platform to harvest the uppermost berries, as by tomato production in greenhouse. It is
recommended to use 5-6 shoots per m row in greenhouse by 2.3 m distance between rows
(for cultivars with long laterals as 'Glen Ample') and 2.3 m high plants. For details on
greenhouse production, see Stavang & Tellevik (2011 - link in literature list).

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Figure 11. Support system for production of raspberries in greenhouse by Sigmund
Grønhaug, Frekhaug, Norway. Pictures are taken just after placing long cane plants (top) and
during fruit ripening (bottom). Photos: Torbjørn Takle.

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Figure 12. 'Glen Ample' is a cultivar with long laterals. From production of raspberries in
plastic greenhouse by Hólmfriður Geirsdóttir and Steinar Jensen, Iceland. Photo: Dag Røen.

Figure 13. Greenhouse production of raspberries in Rogaland, Norway, showing a net used
for supporting the long laterals of 'Glen Ample'. Photo: Torbjørn Takle.

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Figure 14. A system for raspberry production in pots at PCFruit Tongeren, Belgium. Photo:
Torbjørn Takle.

21
DISEASES
In http://www.bioforsk.no/ikbViewer/Content/47586/Plantevern_150dpi.pdf pp. 166-180
you can find pictures of symptoms on diseases. An updated version of a plant protection
plan for Norway for conventional production is found at the web-site of Fylkesmannen i
Sogn og Fjordane (link to 2013-version in literature list). A plant protection plan for Norway
for organic production is written by Nes & Takle (2012 – link in literature list).

Grey mould (Botrytis cinerea), spur blight (Didymella applanata) and cane spot (Elsinoë
veneta) are common cane diseases on raspberries. Symptoms on grey mould on green
canes are brown blotches developing from leaf base on new shoots, and in the autumn it
develops black elongated sclerotia in the blotches. Spur blight blotches are brown-purple on
green canes, and during winter they develop into silvery grey blotches with small black dots
(sporangia). Cane spot shows as small light spots with purple edge that after overwintering
turns into grey blotches that cracks easily. Grey mould and spur blight infects through older
leaves, while cane spot also infects through younger leaves and shoots. To reduce the
problem with cane diseases it is important to keep the hedge open by having good weed
control, thinning out in new shoots during summer as well as removing floricanes and
thinning out new canes directly after harvest.

Figure 15. Infection of grey mould through leaf. Photo: Torbjørn Takle.

Grey mould on berries is due to infection through the open flowers or through flower parts
(petals and anthers) left on the developing berries. The fungus then grows into the berries
where it develops a rot right away or later on during fruit ripening. It can develop on unripe
berries as brown blotches, and when berries are ripe it develops into a grey mould of
mycelium and spores covering the berries. Everything that keep moisture level down in the
hedge will reduce problems with grey mould. This include keeping the hedge narrow and
open (see cane diseases) and growing under a plastic cover (e.g. tunnel) from before
flowering until after harvest. It is also important to remove all ripe berries by harvest, not
leaving behind any berries that rot and produce spores. The fungus can grow from one berry
to another if they hang close together and leaves (and to some extent fruits) can be infected
by the spores.

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In organic production attack of grey mould (canes and berries), spur blight and cane spot
must be prevented by keeping the hedge narrow and open all season (removing / thinning
new shoots and weeding), avoiding too much N, remove the old shoots as soon as possible
after harvest, thin away young shoots with severe fungus attacks, grow under plastic cover
(tunnel / greenhouse) and keep humidity in tunnel / greenhouse down by good ventilation.
Ripe berries must not be left to rotten on plants or on the ground.

A fungicide program is used in conventional production to reduce problem with cane

diseases and grey mould on berries. The first spray against cane diseases is when new shoots
are 30-40 cm high. During flowering, several sprays are used to control cane diseases and
grey mould on berries. If there are symptoms of cane diseases it is again sprayed on the new
shoots after removal of old shoots in early autumn. Chemicals recommended for use in
Norway 2013 is shown in table 2. In organic production we only have the preventive
measures mentioned above.

Raspberry root rot caused by Phytophthora rubi is a very severe soil borne disease on
raspberries. The pathogen infects through roots, and root system can be totally destroyed.
The first symptom observed is often wilting of floricanes. Production of new shoots is
reduced, and the new shoots are weaker and often have a curved top. A dark rot develops
on the new shoots starting from the base of the shoot. Infected roots first get a red colour
under the bark, and further on the roots turn brown and die. On infected plants, growth and
yield are strongly reduced, and finally the plant dies. The disease typically starts on isolated
spots in the field, and then spreads from these. Most damage is found on plants in heavy
and wet soil, and on locations within a field with standing water after rain. Humid and cool
weather is favorable for fungus development.

The fungus lives in the soil and attacks raspberry roots. It produces two types of spores,
oospores and zoospores. The zoospores are most important for spreading of the disease and
infection. The oospores can survive in soil in at least 10-15 years without raspberry plants.
The fungus overwinters as mycelium or oospores in the plant roots. When soil is sufficiently
humid, the oospores germinate and produce sporangia with zoospores. Zoospores are
produced throughout the season and spread within a field in soil water, by rain splashes and
soil on shoes and tools. Between fields the fungus is spread mainly with infected plants and
soil on shoes and tools.

The most important precaution is to use only certified plants to avoid introducing the
pathogen. One should not buy plants that have been in soil, only plants grown in peat.
Raspberry should always be planted only in well drained soil. When visiting other raspberry
growers or when having visitors, plastic covers should always be used on shoes to avoid
oospores following soil on shoes. Tools and tractor wheels must be properly cleaned and
sterilized (e.g. sodium-hypochlorite or ethanol) when moved between growers, and also
inside a farm where the pathogen is found. Disinfecting footbaths can be used by entrance
of tunnels and greenhouses. When a first infection is observed on a farm, and it is only on
one or very few restricted spots in the farm, one can try to remove the soil on the infected
spots(s) immediately. One should then remove soil at 1 m to both sides of the plant row and
several meters in both directions from the infected plants within the row. The soil dug up
should be put directly in a trailer (no contact with clean soil) and the used tools and trailer

23
thoroughly cleaned afterwards. When properly done, this effort can stop or at least delay an
infection, but it is very difficult to eradicate the pathogen completely.

On an infected plot, it is very important to plant on raised beds and to avoid any water
logging. This also means that irrigation should be managed so that the soil never gets too
wet, by watering only short periods with intervals between, several times per day in
summer. Compounds with phosphonic acid or a salt of the acid (sodium-phosphite, fosethyl-
aluminium) has a preventive effect against root rot. In Norway sodium-phosphite (Resistim)
is considered a nutrient and can be sprayed on the plants (0.5 l / 100 l water) or added
through irrigation water (0.5 l per daa), while fosethyl-aluminium (Aliette 80 WG) can be
used only when infection with raspberry root rot is documented sprayed before flowering or
after harvest, at maximum 3 times per season (400 g / 100 l water). In Norway metalaxyl
(Ridomil Gold granulate) can also be used at 750 g per 300 m row in every plant hole in
autumn, after removal of old shoots. Metalaxyl + mankozeb (Ridomil Gold MZ Pepite) and
oxadicyl + mankozeb (Recoil) has been in use in other countries, but is not allowed in
Norway. Other fungicides have also shown effect against raspberry root rot in trials.

Use of compost can reduce problems with raspberry root rot, due to content of antagonistic
fungi. Prestop is a biological fungicide with the fungus Gliocladium catenulatum having effect
against the root rot fungus. In trials also use of gypsum (calcium sulfate) has had an effect.

In organic production, disease introduction and development must be prevented by use of

certified plants, raised beds and good watering management. Adding compost to the growth
medium can be helpful.

Figure 16. Symptoms of raspberry root rot, wiltering top of primocane (left) and dark rot
developing from base of primocane (right). Photos: Dag Røen (left) and Torbjørn Takle (right).

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Figure 17. Symptoms of raspberry root rot, dying floricanes and primocanes. Photo: Dag Røen.

Several viruses can affect raspberry plant and yield. The most typical symptoms are leaf
mosaics, leaf curling, leaf yellowing, dwarfing of shoots and crumbly berries. Starting with
healthy, certified plants is very important. Wild raspberry plants nearby should be removed.
Plants showing suspicious symptoms should be removed immediately. As several viruses in
raspberries are transferred by aphid vectors, good aphid control is important. The most
feared virus, raspberry bushy dwarf virus (RBDV), is transferred by pollen.
25
PESTS
At http://www.bioforsk.no/ikbViewer/Content/47586/Plantevern_150dpi.pdf pp. 166-180
you can find pictures of pests and symptoms. Description and pictures of pests and
beneficial insects/mites are also found (in Norwegian) at http://www.bioforsk.no/rubusdyr.

Only the major pests are mentioned here. Several other insects can cause damage in
raspberries. For description of and means against these pests see the internet article
http://www.bioforsk.no/ikbViewer/page/prosjekt/hovedtema?p_dimension_id=22074&p_
menu_id=22089&p_sub_id=22073&p_dim2=22075 (in Norwegian).

An updated version of plant protection plan for Norway for conventional production is found
at the web-site of Fylkesmannen Sogn og Fjordane (link to 2013-version in literature list). A
plant protection plan for Norway for organic production is written by Nes & Takle (2012 –
link in literature list).

Raspberry moth (Lampronia rubiella) causes most damage by destroying the buds in spring.
The red larvae destroy the bud from inside. In some cultivars (as 'Glen Ample') a side bud
then often breaks so there will be a lateral there anyway. If you have this pest, monitor by
putting insect glue on some cane stems at several places in the planting. The red larvae are
easy to see when they crawl up from overwintering in soil surface and get stuck in the glue.
If there is an attack, you can spray with an insecticide.

Loganberry cane fly (Cortophila rubivora) lay eggs on the new emerging shoots, the larvae
eats around the stem, making the shoot tip hang down and later on wilt and die. Keep the
population down by removing and burning attacked shoots. Wild raspberries nearby should
be removed. There are no chemicals available against this pest in Norway. The loganberry
cane fly is usually not a big problem, but should be monitored to avoid it from developing
into a larger problem.

Two spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) is easy recognizable by the two dark spots on
the back. The first symptom of an attack is often a lighter colour of leaves and on the
backside of the leaves you find a web with the mites crawling inside. By heavy attacks, leaves
start to wilt and the web can cover the top of the shoots. The population can develop very
fast in tunnel and greenhouse. Biological control with mite predator mites (Phytoseilus
persimilis) should be the first option. The predator mites should be put out as soon as you
see spider mites or symptoms of attack. Check that the mites are alive; they will crawl out of
the bottle when it is opened. Put out 6-10 individuals per square m (20-50 individuals per
square m on plots with more heavy symptoms) by sprinkling the mites with carrying material
on the leaves. The carrying material with mites sticks better to the leaves if the leaves are
moistened before putting out the mite. The predator mites need a relative humidity in air of
60-70 %, and are active when day temperature is above 16 °C. Night temperature should
not be below 12 °C. A spider mite attack can be prevented by using thrips predator mite
(Amblyseius cucumeris). Contrary to the mite predator mite, it can survive on pollen when
there are no spider mites or thrips on the plants. As a preventive care, the thrips predator
mites can be put out a few weeks after start of e.g. a long cane production in greenhouse.
Recommended dose is 175 bags with thrips predator mites per daa, which is around 175

26
mites per square m. New bags with mites must be put out every 4-6 weeks. The thrips spider
mites need 15 °C during day and 10 °C during night.

If biological control is not sufficient to control the spider mite, a conventional grower can
spray with acaricides. This will also kill the predator mites. Be aware of deadlines for
spraying in relation to harvest time. With heavy attacks of two spotted spider mite, one can
also spray after harvesting. This autumn spray must be done before the red adult
overwintering females occur. In organic production repeated sprays with 1 % rapeseed oil +
1 % soft soap can be tried during growth season in order to keep spider mite population
down, but be aware that in tunnel or greenhouse oil + soap can cause damage to the leaves,
especially in sunny weather.

Figure 18. Symptoms of attack of raspberry leaf and bud mite. Left: Early symptoms of an
attack on a leaf. Right: Heavily infested 'Glen Ample' plants. Photo: Torbjørn Takle (left), Dag Røen
(right).

Symptoms on attack of raspberry leaf and bud mite (Phyllocoptes gracilis) are irregular light
green flecks on the leaves, and if one looks at the backside of the leaves the white hairs are
missing in these flecks. It can also cause damage directly on fruits, seen as early ripening og
discolouring of drupelets, and the berries can be crumbly. There is large difference between
cultivars in susceptibility to raspberry leaf and bud mite. 'Glen Ample' is very susceptible,
and control of this pest in very important when growing 'Glen Ample'. If there are symptoms
of raspberry leaf and bud mite, spray two times with 2-4 weeks intervals late autumn (by
leaf fall) with 4 % rapeseed oil and 4 % soft soap ("Grønsåpe"), the soap acts as emulgator
for the oil. The rapeseed oil / soft soap spray can also be used in organic production. The
purpose of the spray is to give the mite around the buds a "deadly bath". The spray liquid
should run down the canes and gather around the buds in the petiole. Spray on the whole

27
cane length until the liquid runs off. Drive tractor at low speed, high speed on the spray
(rpm) and nozzles that give large drops. Use 35-50 liters per 100 m row, dependent on leaf
mass. When using a mist blower, the fan speed should be reduced (or shut down the fan), as
plant volume is very low. Make sure you cover the base of the plants with spray liquid
(turning the lowest nozzle as much downwards as possible). The less leaves by spraying, the
better effect and less risk of disturbing bud development. It is of no problem if there has
been night frost before spraying, but you should not spray in temperatures below zero.
Canes removed and put in the alley should be crushed by mower before spraying, or
preferably removed out of the planting. When making oil/soap-solution it is recommended
to first dissolve the soap in temperate water in a bucket, then add the oil and mix well
before pouring it into the spraying tank to make sure that the oil is well dispersed.

Another alternative is to use sulphur (300 g / 100 l) two times, or one can spray once with
sulphur and once with rapeseed oil + soap. If weather conditions make it difficult to do one
of the autumn sprays, one oil+soap spray can be given in early spring before bud break
(damage on emerging leaves if given after bud break). Caution: Never use sulphur spray or
vapour on raspberry plants with leaves as this may cause severe damage on the plants,
especially if done inside a tunnel or greenhouse. The only exception is use of sulphur late
autumn against raspberry leaf and bud mite. Using sulphur for the first autumn spray when
leaves are still on can make the plants defoliate earlier, which possibly can increase the
effect of the second spray.

It is of outmost importance to have control with the raspberry beetle (Byturus tomentosus).
This beetle lays eggs in the open flowers, and the larvae lives and feeds in the berries along
the berry plug. Berries with beetle larvae can't be sold. In conventional production this pest
is controlled by spraying with an insecticide when flowering starts (5 % open flowers – timing
crucial). In organic production we do not yet have any good methods for controlling the
raspberry beetle. Traps with volatile compounds for catching the swarming beetles are
commercially available in Scotland, but are not yet effective enough to catch all beetles
where you have wild raspberries nearby. They are also rather expensive. All wild raspberries
nearby should be removed. Covering tunnel openings with insect net will reduce the
problem strongly. If you already have raspberry beetle in the tunnel, make sure that all
berries are harvested, and remove and destruct all berries that are not sold.

Several aphids can be found on raspberries, the most important outdoor are large raspberry
aphid (Amphotophora idaei) and small raspberry aphid (Aphis idaei). In heated greenhouse
several other aphids can be found on raspberry. The aphids can cause growth reduction,
curling of leaves and pollute flowers and berries with honeydew, but moreover they are
important virus vectors. Spray with an insecticide (e.g. Calypso) when aphids have been
observed. In organic production, spraying with rapeseed oil + soft soap before bud break can
help reducing population of raspberry aphids. Remove all wild raspberry plants nearby.

WEED CONTROL
Weed control inside an established raspberry hedge is difficult. It is therefore important to
do a proper job on weed control before planting raspberries in soil. This can be done by
chemical (glyfosate) and/or mechanical fallowing. In organic production mechanical
fallowing can be used, but there are other options as well. The area can be covered with

28
black plastic 1-2 months that is removed before planting. Flaming with a propane flame can
also be used before planting. Make the beds ready, allow the weeds to germinate and then
flame at least two times to allow more weed seeds to germinate.

Never use systemic herbicides like glyfosate near raspberry plants you want to keep! New
shoots of raspberry can emerge from root suckers quite far from the mother plant, and if
they are sprayed with glyfosate the plant can be severely damaged.

A proper weed control in plant hole is necessary to obtain full yield in raspberries. Yield is
further increased if a vegetation free strip is managed along the black plastic mulch. The
wider this strip is, the better. It should be at least 30-50 cm on each side of the plastic mulch
covered bed. One option is to cover the whole alley with a thick plastic. If this plastic is
white, it will also improve light regime in lower part of the hedge. This can also be used in
organic production, which otherwise have only manual weeding as option.

After planting weeds can be controlled chemically by:

- Use of germination inhibiting herbicides (e.g. Gallery) in early spring to kill germinating
weeds. Soil must then be humid.
- Use of a contact herbicide unshielded in hedge an along plastic mulch during spring until
new shoots are 10 cm high.
- Use of a contact herbicide shielded along plastic mulch.
- Use of selective herbicides only killing grasses (monycotyledonae).

CHEMICALS USED FOR CONTROLLING DISEASES, PESTS AND WEEDS

Which chemicals that are allowed for use in raspberries differ between countries, production
location (outdoor, tunnel, greenhouse) and production method (conventional, organic), and
also changes from year to year. This must every year be checked with what is allowed in
your country that year. Table 2 shows the recommendations for use of pesticides on
raspberry grown conventionally in Norway 2013, and active compounds are listed in table 3.
For more details, see Takle (2013b – link in literature list).

HARVESTING AND TAKING CARE OF THE BERRIES

Good hand hygiene routines during harvesting are obligatory as the berries are eaten fresh.

One should calculate that 1-2 pickers is needed per daa raspberry, most during peak season,
and less in the beginning and end of the harvest season. In peak season one picker can
harvest at least 10 kg per hour, picking capacity being lower in start and end of season.
Picking capacity goes down whenever number of berries and/or berry size is reduced for any
reason. By using the Gjerde training system as intended, picking capacity is increased. Then
new shoots are separated from the floricanes, and most of the laterals are growing towards
the alley making the berries easier accessible.

Berries for fresh market in outdoor production should be harvested at least every 2nd day (or
4 times per week), in tunnels and greenhouse one should harvest every day. The berries
should be harvested directly in the baskets they are marketed in. If berries are harvested too
early, sugar content and aroma of berries are not fully developed, if harvested too late the

29
berries can't be transported and must be consumed the same day. 'Glen Ample' berries
should have Brix of 9 or more in order to taste good. The berries must be put in cold storage
and should preferably be cooled to 2 °C within two hours after harvest. The cooling should
start as soon as possible after harvest, preferably within ½ hour, and should be done in a
chamber with forced cooling (suction) for fast temperature reduction. You should be able to
remove 7/8 of the heat by forced cooling before moving the berries to an ordinary cold
store. If berries are kept too long on forced cooling, they will dry out too much. The berries
must be kept continuously cooled all the way to the market.

Figure 19. 'Glen Ample' raspberries harvested at different ripening stages. As berries ripen,
taste improves while storage capacity decreases. The berries in the middle are at optimum
stage of harvesting for fresh consumption. They have good storage capacity in combination
with good taste. The ripest berries (to the right) have very limited storage capacity and must
be sold and eaten directly. Photo: Jon Anders Stavang.

THINGS TO DO DURING THE SEASON

In table 4 is a list of what to do during the year in raspberry production (outdoor / tunnel).
For long cane production in greenhouse a similar list is given by Stavang & Tellevik (2011).

LITTERATURE
Døving, A. 2013. Måling av behov for vatning. Fagdag bringebær, Leikanger, 18.-19.01.13.
Haslestad, J. 2011. Bærometeret. Medlemsorgan for Frukt- og Bærrådgivingen Mjøsen.
Heiberg, N. 2013. Raud rotråte – korleis leve med det? Fagdag bringebær, Leikanger, 18.-
19.01.13.
Heide, O.M. & A. Sønsteby 2011. Bringebærplantens bygning og fysiologiske reaksjoner på
klima og kulturtiltak. Norsk frukt og bær 14(4):24-30.
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Hjeltnes, S.H. 2013. Vatning med dryppvatning i bringebær. Fagdag bringebær, Leikanger,
18.-19.01.13.
Nes, A. & T. Takle 2012. Tiltak mot skadegjerarar i økologisk bærdyrking: Bringebær. Bioforsk
Tema nr. 14 – november 2012, 8 pp.
http://www.agropub.no/asset/4191/1/4191_1.pdf
Nes, A., T. Takle & G. L. Serikstad 2012. Bringebærdyrking i økologisk landbruk. Bioforsk
Fokus 7(6), 32 pp.
Norsk landbruksrådgiving. Handbok for Vestlandet – Bringebær. http://vestlandet.lfr.no .
Redalen, G. 1983. Pollinering og fruktsetting hos frukt- og bærvekster. Forelesingsnotat,
Institutt for fruktdyrking NLH, 42 pp.
Røen, D., L.O. Brandsæter, S.M. Birkenes, G. Jaastad, A. Nes, N. Trandem & A. Stensvand
2008. Plantevern og plantehelse i økologisk landbruk. Bind 4 – Frukt og bær. Bioforsk
Fokus 3(7), 210 pp.
Stavang, J.A. & H. Tellevik 2011. Handbok for dyrking av bringebær i veksthus. Bioforsk Fokus
6(12), 30 pp. http://www.bioforsk.no/ikbViewer/Content/95167/FOKUS%20Vol-
1.6%20nr.%2012%202011.pdf
Stensvand, A. & N. Heiberg 2013. Raud rotróte i bringebær årsak av Phytophthora rubi.
Førebygging og bekjemping. Fagdag bringebær, Leikanger, 18.-19.01.13.
Takle, T. 2007. Dyrking av bringebær. Fylkesmannen landbruksavdelinga I Sogn og Fjordane,
29 pp.
Takle, T. 2013a. Plantevern i bringebær. Fagdag bringebær, Leikanger, 18.-19.01.13.
Takle, T. 2013b. Plantevern i frukt og bær 2013. Fylkesmannen landbruksavdelinga i Sogn og
Fjordane, Møre og Romsdal, Hordaland, Rogaland, Agder, 36 pp.
http://www.fylkesmannen.no/Documents/Dokument%20FMSF/Landbruk%20og%20
mat/Plantevernplanen%202013.pdf?epslanguage=nn
Trandem, N., R. Vereide & M. Bøthun 2010. Høstsprøyting med rapsolje har overraskende
god effekt mot bladmidd i bringebær. Norsk frukt og bær 13(5):20-22.
Trandem, N., R. Vereide & M. Bøthun 2011. Bladmidd i økologisk bringebærdyrking. Bioforsk
Tema nr. 13 – oktober 2011, 4 pp.
Vereide, R. 2011-2012. Norsk Landbruksrådgiving Sogn og Fjordane. Frukt- og bærmeldingar.
Vereide, R. 2013. Gjødslingsplanlegging og gjødsling til bringebær. Fagdag bringebær,
Leikanger, 18.-19.01.13.
Øydvin, J. 1986, The Gjerde method for training raspberries. Effects of increasing cane
number and cane height. Acta Horticulturae 183:173-174.

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Figure 20. Red raspberries produced in plastic greenhouse by Hólmfriður Geirsdóttir and
Steinar Jensen, Iceland. Photo: Dag Røen

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