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© Lonely Planet Publications


sions and hotels) is between 8000Ft and
15,500Ft (€31 and €63) in the counties
CONTENTS and 12,500Ft to 25,000Ft (€50 to €102) in
the capital; and top end is anything over
Accommodation 365 16,000Ft (€64) outside Budapest and over
Activities 367 25,500Ft (€104) in the city.
Business Hours 367 The price quoted should be the price you
Children 368 pay, but it’s not as cut and dried. Tourist
Climate Charts 368 offices and travel agencies usually charge
Courses 368 a small fee for booking a private room or
Customs 369 other accommodation, and there’s usually
Dangers & Annoyances 369 a surcharge on the first night if you stay
Disabled Travellers 369 for less than three nights. Most cities and
Discount Cards 369 towns now levy a local tourist tax of 160Ft
Embassies & Consulates 370 to 300Ft per person per night (3% in Buda-
Festivals & Events 371 pest for those aged 18 to 70), though some-
Food 371 times only after the first night or two. People
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 372 under 18 and over 70 years of age are usually
Holidays 372 exempt. Some top-end hotels in Budapest
Insurance 372 do not include the 15% Value Added Tax
Internet Access 372 (VAT) in their rack rates; make sure you
Legal Matters 372 read the fine print. In the past, all hotels and
Maps 373 pensions included breakfast in their rates,
Money 373 but this is not always true today.
Post 374 Inflation is running at about 7% at the
Shopping 375 time of writing, so prices will almost cer-
Telephone 375 tainly be higher than those quoted in this
Time 376 book, although they shouldn’t change
Tourist Information 376 much when quoted in euros, and the rela-
Visas 377 tive differences between various establish-
Women Travellers 377 ments in forint should stay the same. The
room rate usually increases in April for the
ACCOMMODATION summer season – sometimes by as much as
Except during the peak summer season (ie 30%. High-season prices have been listed
July and most of August) in Budapest, most throughout this book.
of Lake Balaton, the Danube Bend and the
Mátra Hills, you should have no problem Camping
finding accommodation to fit your budget The handy Hungary Camping Map pub-
in Hungary. Camp sites are plentiful, uni- lished by the Hungarian National Tourist
versity and college dormitories open their Office (HNTO; p376) lists some 425 camp
doors to guests during summer and other sites of various sizes across the country, and
holiday periods, former trade-union holiday these are the cheapest places to stay. Small,
homes have been converted into hostels and private camp sites accommodating as few as
cheap hotels, and family-run pensions have a dozen tents are usually preferable to the
sprung up everywhere. Paying-guest ser- large and very noisy ‘official’ sites. Prices
vices (p367) are available everywhere, too. for two adults plus tent vary from as low
In this book budget accommodation – as 1800Ft off the beaten track in Western
camp sites, hostels, pensions and cheap Transdanubia to five times that amount on
hotels – is anything under 7500Ft (€30) a Lake Balaton in the height of summer.
night in the provinces and under 12,000Ft Most camp sites open from April or May
(€49) in Budapest; midrange (usually pen- to September or October, and also rent
DIREC TORY 366 D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s 367

For the big splurge, or if you’re roman-
PRACTICALITIES tically inclined, check out Hungary’s net- BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE
work of kastély szállók (castle hotels) or For more accommodation reviews and rec-
„ Budapest counts three English-language weekly newspapers: the long-established tabloid kúria szállók (mansion hotels). ommendations by Lonely Planet authors,
Budapest Sun (; 399Ft), appearing on Thursday, with a useful classified check out the online booking service at
section and Style arts and entertainment supplement; the Budapest Business Journal (www.bbj Pensions You’ll find the true,
.hu; 575Ft), an almost archival publication of financial news and business, appearing on Mon- Privately run panziók (pensions), which insider lowdown on the best places to stay.
day; and the Budapest Times (; 420Ft), the new kid on the block, with have formed the biggest growth area in the Reviews are thorough and independent.
good reviews and opinion pieces, including ‘The Weekly Stink’ by local gadfly Erik D’Amato, Hungarian hospitality trade over the past Best of all, you can book online.
also appearing on Monday. decade, are really just little hotels of up to a
„ Radio broadcasts are available with Hungarian Radio/Radio Budapest ( dozen or so rooms, charging from an aver-
hu) in English daily from 1pm to 1.30pm on 9590 kHz, from 2.30am to 3am on 9795 kHz, age 8500Ft for a double with shower. They University Accommodation
and from 7pm to 7.30pm on 3975 kHz and 6025 kHz. On Sunday it broadcasts from 1am to are usually new and very clean, and often From 1 July to 20 August (or later) and
1.30am on 9560 kHz, and from 3 to 3.30pm on 6025 kHz and 9655 kHz. have an attached restaurant. As they are sometimes during the Easter holidays
„ Plug your hairdryer or travel kettle into a standard European adaptor with two round pins
often outside the centre, pensions are usu- Hungary’s cheapest rooms are available
before connecting to electricity supply (220V, 50Hz AC). ally best for those travelling under their own at vacant student dormitories, known as a
steam, and visitors from Austria and Ger- kollégium or diákszálló, where beds in dou-
„ Hungary uses the metric system for weights and measures (see the conversion table under
many seem to favour them. A useful website ble, triple and quadruple rooms start as
Quick Reference on the inside front cover).
(in Hungarian only) is low as 1200Ft per person. There’s no need
to show a student or hostel card, and it
Private Rooms usually won’t get you a discount anyway.
üdölőházak or faházak (small bungalows) the ifjúsági szállók (youth hostels) are in Hungary’s fizetővendég szolgálat (‘paying- Facilities are usually – but not always –
from 1000/2000Ft per person without/with places well off the beaten track. Generally, guest service’) offers a great deal and is shared.
shower. In midsummer the bungalows may the only official year-round hostels are in still relatively cheap, but with the advent
all be booked, so it pays to check with the Budapest. A useful website is www.youth of pensions it’s not as widespread as it once ACTIVITIES
local Tourinform office before making the was. For a single/double expect to pay from Hungary offers an extensive range of ac-
trip. A Camping Card International will Dormitory beds in a hostel cost 2000Ft 2000Ft to 4200Ft (from 4500Ft to 6500Ft tivities, from cycling and canoeing to bird-
sometimes get you a discount of up to 10%. to 5000Ft per person and doubles 6000Ft in Budapest) depending on the class and watching and ‘taking the waters’ at one of
Camping ‘wild’ is prohibited in Hungary. to 12,000Ft in Budapest; the prices drop location of the room. Private rooms at Lake the nation’s many thermal spas. For details,
For more information, contact the Hun- considerably in the countryside. An HI Balaton are always more expensive, even in see p48.
garian Camping and Caravanning Club (MCCC; Map card is not required, although holders will the shoulder seasons. Single rooms are often
p84;%1-267 5255;; VIII Mária utca 34, sometimes get 10% off the price or not be hard to come by, and you’ll usually have to BUSINESS HOURS
2nd fl) in Budapest. A useful website is www required to pay the tourist tax. There’s no pay a 30% supplement on the first night if With rare exceptions, the opening hours, age limit at hostels, which usually remain you stay less than three or four days. or nyitvatartás, of any concern are posted
open all day. The hostels almost always Private rooms are usually assigned by on the front door; nyitva means ‘open’ and
Farmhouses have cooking and laundry facilities, as well travel agencies. There are often several zárva ‘closed’.
‘Village tourism’, which means staying at a as free or very cheap Internet access. agencies offering rooms, so ask around if Grocery stores and supermarkets open
farmhouse, can be even cheaper than a pri- the price seems higher than usual or the from about 7am to 6pm or 7pm on Monday
vate room in a town or city, but most of the Hotels location inconvenient. In resort areas look to Friday, and department stores generally
places are truly remote and you’ll usually Hotels, called szállók or szállodák, run the for houses with signs reading ‘szoba kiadó’ from 10am to 6pm. Most shops stay open
need your own transport. For information gamut from luxurious five-star palaces to or ‘Zimmer frei’, advertising private rooms until 8pm on Thursday, but on Saturday
contact Tourinform, the National Federation the run-down old socialist-era hovels that in Hungarian or German. they usually close at 1pm. That’s changing,
of Rural & Agrotourism (FATOSZ; Map p84; %/fax still survive in some towns. Breakfast is usu- If you decide to take a private room, however, and some food shops even open
1-352 9804;; VII Király utca 93) or the ally included. you’ll share a house or flat with a Hungarian for several hours now on Sunday. Many
Centre of Rural Tourism (Map pp80-1;%1-321 2426; A cheap hotel will often be more expen- widow, couple or family. The toilet facilities private retail shops close early on Friday; VII Dohány utca 86) in Budapest. sive than a private room, but it may be the are usually communal, but otherwise you and throughout most of August.
answer if you’re only staying one night or can close your door and enjoy as much pri- Restaurant opening hours vary tremen-
Hostels if you arrive too late to get a private room vacy as you please. All 1st- and some 2nd- dously across the country but are essentially
Despite all the places listed in the handbook through an agency. Two-star hotels usually and 3rd-class rooms have shared kitchen from 10am or 11am to 11pm or midnight
of the Budapest-based Hungarian Youth Hos- have rooms with a private bathroom; it’s facilities. In Budapest you may have to take daily. Bars are equally variable but are usu-
tel Association (MISZSZ; Map p86; %1-411 2392; www always down the hall in a one-star place. a room far from the city centre. Some agen- ally open from 11am to midnight Sunday; V Molnár utca 3), a Hostelling Inter- Three- and four-star hotels – many of which cies also have entire flats or holiday homes to Thursday and until 1am or 2am on Fri-
national (HI) card (or equivalent) doesn’t are new or newly renovated old villas – for rent without the owner in residence. day and Saturday. Nightclubs usually open
get you very far in Hungary. With the can be excellent value compared with those These can be a good deal if there are four or from 4pm to 2am Sunday to Thursday and
exception of those in Budapest, most of in other European countries. more of you travelling together. until 4am on Friday and Saturday.
DIREC TORY 368 D I R E C T O R Y • • C h i l d re n D I R E C T O R Y • • C u s t o m s 369

Banking hours change from institution BUDAPEST 139m (456ft)
Max/Min and August, 80-hour, two-week intensive
to location but banks usually operate from °C °F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm courses in January and a super-intensive EMERGENCY NUMBERS
7.45am to 5pm or 6pm Monday, 7.45am to 30 86 100 4 100
two-week course in May/June. The two-/ „ Ambulance %104
4pm or 5pm Tuesday to Thursday and from 20 68 75 3 75
four-week (60-/120-hour) summer courses
„ Central emergency number (English
7.45am to 4pm on Friday. The main post cost €390/760; board and lodging in a triple
spoken) %112
office in any town or city opens from 8am 10 50 50 2 50 room costs €90/180 (singles and doubles are
to 6pm weekdays, and until noon on Sat- available at extra cost). There’s also now a „ English-language crime hotline
1 25
urday. Branch offices close much earlier – 0 32 25
Budapest branch (p101). %1-438 8080 (8am-8pm), 06 80 660
usually at 4pm – and are almost never open -10 14 0 0 0 For details on reliable schools teaching 044 (8pm-8am)
on weekends. Hungarian to foreigners in Budapest, see „ Fire %105
Almost all towns and cities have at least p101.
one ‘nonstop’ – a convenience store, open MISKOLC 233m (764ft)
„ Police %107
round-the-clock (or very early/late), and °C °F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm CUSTOMS „ 24-hour car assistance %188
selling basic food items, drinks and tobacco. 30 86 100 4 100
Duty-free shopping within the EU was
Most of the hyper-supermarkets outside the 20 68 75 3 75
abolished in 1999 and Hungary, as an EU
big cities, such as Tesco, open on Sunday. member, now adheres to the rules. You tallying the bill. If you think there’s a dis-
10 50 50 2 50 cannot, for example, buy tax-free goods crepancy, ask for the menu and check the
in, say, Poland or France and take them bill carefully. If you’ve been taken for more
0 32 25
Successful travel with young children re- to Hungary. However, you can still enter than 15% or 20% of the bill, call for the
quires planning and effort. Don’t try to -10 14 0 0 0 an EU country with duty-free items from manager. Otherwise just don’t leave a tip
overdo things; even for adults, packing too countries outside the EU. (p374).
much into the time available can cause prob- The usual allowances apply to duty-free Most Hungarian car thieves are not after
lems. And make sure the activities include SIÓFOK 107m (351ft)
Max/Min goods purchased at airports or on ferries fancy Western models because of the dif-
the kids as well – balance that morning at °C °F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm originating outside the EU: 200 cigarettes, ficulty in getting rid of them. But Volkswa-
Budapest’s Museum of Fine Arts, with an 30 86 100 4 100
50 cigars or 250g of loose tobacco; 2L of still gens, Audis and the like are very popular,
afternoon at the nearby Municipal Great 20 68 75 3 75
wine and 1L of spirits; 100mL of perfume; and are easy to dismantle and ship abroad.
Circus, a performance at the Budapest Pup- 250cc of eau de toilette. You must declare Don’t leave anything of value, including
pet Theatre or even a stroll through the 10 50 50 2 50 the import/export of any amount of cash, luggage, inside the car.
West End City Centre mall, which has lots cheques, securities etc exceeding the sum For important telephone numbers to
0 32 25 1 25
of things to distract children. Include chil- of 1,000,000Ft. know in an emergency anywhere in Hun-
dren in the trip planning; if they’ve helped -10 14 0 0 0 When leaving the country, you are not gary, see boxed text above.
to work out where you will be going, they’ll supposed to take out valuable antiques with-
be much more interested when they get out a ‘museum certificate’, which should be DISABLED TRAVELLERS
there. Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children SZEGED 83m (272ft)
Max/Min available from the place of purchase. Hungary has made great strides in recent
is a good source of information. °C °F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm years in making public areas and facilities
All car-rental firms in Hungary have chil- 30 86 100 4 100
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES more accessible to the disabled. Wheel-
dren’s safety seats for hire for about €20 20 68 75 3 75
As a traveller, you are most vulnerable to chair ramps, toilets fitted for the disabled
per rental; make sure you book them in ad- pickpockets, dishonest waiters, car thieves and inward opening doors, though not as
vance. The same goes for highchairs and 10 50 50 2 50 and the scams of the capital’s so-called common as they are in Western Europe,
cots (cribs). konzumlányok, attractive ‘consume girls’ in do exist and audible traffic signals for the
0 32 25 1 25
collusion with rip-off bars and clubs who blind are becoming commonplace in the
CLIMATE CHARTS -10 14 0 0 0 will see you relieved of a serious chunk of cities.
In general, winters in Hungary are cold, money (p69). For more information, contact the Hungar-
cloudy and damp or windy, and summers Pick pocketing is most common at popu- ian Federation of Disabled Persons’ Associations
are warm – sometimes very hot (see Getting nationwide, contact the national weather fore- lar tourist sights, near major hotels, in flea (MEOSZ; Map pp78-9; %1-250 9013, 388 2387; www
Started for more information, p12). July cast service (%1-346 4600, 06 90 504 001; www.met markets and on certain forms of public; III San Marco utca 76) in Budapest.
and August are the hottest months (average .hu in Hungarian). transport in Budapest (p69). The usual
temperature 26°C) and January the coldest method on the street is for someone to DISCOUNT CARDS
(-4°C). The number of hours of sunshine COURSES distract you by running into you and then Hostel Cards
averages between 1900 and 2500 a year – Language apologising profusely – as an accomplice The Hungarian Youth Hostel Association
among the highest in Europe. The average The granddaddy of all Hungarian language takes off with the goods. (p366) and branches of the Express travel
annual precipitation is about 650mm. schools is the Debrecen Summer University (De- It is not unknown for waiters to try to agency chain issue HYHA cards valid for a
The climate charts in this chapter show breceni Nyári Egyetem; %52-532 594; www.nyariegyetem rip you off once they see/hear that you are year to Hungarian citizens and residents for
you what to expect and when to expect it. For .hu; Egyetem tér 1) in Debrecen. It organises in- a foreigner. They may try to bring you an 2300Ft, which includes a 300Ft NeoPhone
information on specific weather conditions tensive two- and four-week courses in July unordered dish or make a ‘mistake’ when phonecard.
DIREC TORY 370 D I R E C T O R Y • • E m b a s s i e s & C o n s u l a t e s D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 371

Hungary Card Ireland (%01-661 2902;; Serbia & Montenegro (%322 1436; VI Dózsa György Martonvásár Days ( The
Those planning on travelling extensively in 2 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2) út 92/b; h10am-1pm Mon-Fri) National Philharmonic performs Beethoven at Brunswick
the country might consider buying a Hun- Netherlands (%070-350 04 04; info@hungarianembassy Slovakia (%273 3500; XIV Gervay utca 44; h8.30am- Mansion in Martonvásár, where Ludwig van himself once
gary Card (%1-266 3741, 267-0896; www.hungary .nl; Hogeweg 14, 2585 JD The Hague) noon Mon-Fri) slept., which gives free admission to many Romania (%01-311 0062;; Strada Slovenia (%438 5600; II Csatárka köz 9; h9am-noon Szeged Open-Air Festival ( The most
museums nationwide; 50% discounts on a Dr Prof Dimitrie Gerota 63-65, Bucharest 70202) Mon-Fri) celebrated open-air festival in Hungary, with opera, ballet,
half-dozen return train fares and some bus Serbia & Montenegro (%011-244 0472; South Africa (%392 0999; II Gárdonyi Géza út 17; classical music and folk dancing, held in Szeged.
and boat travel, as well as other museums hunemblg@eunet.yu; ul Krunska 72, Belgrade 11000) h9am-12.30pm Mon-Fri) Winged Dragon Week International Street Theatre
and attractions; up to 20% off selected ac- Slovakia (%02-59 20 52 00;; UK (%266 2888; V Harmincad utca 6; h9.30am- Festival ( Some 50 music and
commodation; and 50% off the price of the ul Sedlárska 3, 81425 Bratislava) 12.30pm & 2.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri) puppet performances held in and around historical buildings
Budapest Card (p67). The card, available Slovenia (%01-512 1882;; Konrada Ukraine (%422 2122; XIV Stefánia út 77; h9am- in Nyírbátor in the Northeast.
at Tourinform offices nationwide, costs Babnika ulica 5, 1210 Ljubljana-Sentvid) 12pm Mon-Wed & Fri by appointment only)
8395Ft and is valid for 13 months. South Africa (%012-430 3030;; USA (%475 4164; V Szabadság tér 12; h1-4.30pm AUGUST
959 Arcadia St, Hatfield, 0083 Pretoria) Mon-Thu, 9am-noon & 1-4pm Fri) Debrecen Flower Carnival ( Week-
Student, Youth & Teacher Cards UK London embassy (%020-7235 5218; office@huemblon long spectacular in Debrecen kicked off by parade of flower
The International Student Identity Card (ISIC;; 35 Eaton Place, London SW1X 8BY); London FESTIVALS & EVENTS floats on St Stephen’s Day (20 August)., a plastic ID-style card with your consulate (%020-7235 2664;; Hungary’s most outstanding annual events Formula One Hungarian Grand Prix (www.hungaror
photograph, provides bona fide students 35/b Eaton Place, London SW1X 8BY) include the following. For more detailed Hungary’s prime sporting event held in Magyoród,
many discounts on certain forms of trans- Ukraine (%044-230 8000;; coverage, pick up a copy of the HNTO’s an- 24km northeast of Budapest.
port, and cheap admission to museums and ul Rejtarskaja 33, Kyiv 01034) nual Events Calendar available from Tour- Haydn Festival ( A week of classical
other sights. If you’re aged under 26 but not USA Washington (%202-362 6730;; inform offices. music performance at the Esterházy Palace in Fertőd.
a student, you can apply for ISIC’s Inter- 3910 Shoemaker St NW, Washington, DC 20008); New York Hortobágy Bridge Fair ( This
national Youth Travel Card (IYTC; 1300Ft) (%212-752 0669;; 223 East 52nd FEBRUARY/MARCH 100-year-old fair in Hortobágy has dance, street theatre,
or the Euro<26 card (1600Ft valid for sum- St, New York, NY 10022); Los Angeles (%310-473 9344; Busójárás ( Pre-Lenten carnival involving folklore performances, and the occasional horse and pony.
mer break, 2200FT for year) issued by the; Ste 410, 11766 Wilshire Blvd, anthropomorphic costumes, held in Mohács on the weekend Jászberény Summer ( Some
European Youth Card Association (EYCA), Los Angeles, CA 90025) before Ash Wednesday. 10 days of folk music and dancing, including the celebrated
both of which offer the same discounts as Csángo Festival, held in Jászberény.
the student card. Teachers can apply for the Embassies & Consulates in Hungary MARCH Sziget Music Festival ( Now one of the
International Teacher Identity Card (ITIC; Selected countries with representation in Budapest Spring Festival ( biggest and most popular music festivals in Europe, held
1300Ft). Budapest (where the telephone code is Hungary’s largest cultural festival, with some 200 events on Budapest’s Hajógyár Island.
%1) are listed here. The opening hours staged at 60 venues throughout the capital. Zemplén Art Days Classical music festival launched by
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES indicate when consular or chancellery the Ferenc Liszt Chamber Orchestra and held in venues
Hungarian Embassies & Consulates services are available to the public. The MARCH/APRIL around the region, especially Sárospatak.
Hungarian embassies (and consulates as Roman numerals preceding the street Hollókő Easter Festival ( Traditional
indicated) around the world include the name indicate the kerület (district) in the costumes and folk traditions welcome in spring at this SEPTEMBER
following. For further information (and a capital. World Heritage listed village. Debrecen Jazz Days ( Held in
longer list), see Australia (%457 9777; XII Királyhágó tér 8-9, 4th fl; Debrecen, this is the oldest jazz festival in the country and
Australia Canberra (%02-6282 2555; hungcbr@ozemail h9-11am Mon-Fri) MAY attracts performers from all over the world.; 17 Beale Cres, Deakin, ACT 2600); Sydney (%02- Austria (%413 0240; VI Benczúr utca 16; h8-10am Balaton Festival ( Pop and classical Vintage and grape harvest festivals These
9328 7859;; Ste 405, Edgecliff Mon-Fri) music and street theatre to usher in the summer season at bacchanalias are held in wine-growing areas throughout
Centre, 203-233 New South Head Rd, Edgecliff, NSW 2027) Canada (%392 3360; II Ganz utca 12-14; h8.30- Keszthely. Hungary. The Sopron Harvest Days (www.prokultura
Austria (%01-537 80 300;; 11am & 2-3.30pm Mon-Thu) .hu), held in that Transdanubian city, are just one
1 Bankgasse 4-6, A-1010 Vienna) Croatia (%269 5657; VI Munkácsy Mihály utca 15; JUNE example.
Canada Ottawa (%613-230 9614; sysadmin@huembott h1-3pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri) Hungarian Dance Festival (www.nemzetitancszinhaz
.org; 299 Waverley St, Ottawa, ON K2P 0V9); Toronto France (%374 1100; VI Lendvay utca 27; h9am-noon .hu/english/festivals.php) The nation’s most prestigious NOVEMBER
(%416-923 8981;; Mon-Fri) festival of dance held biannually in Győr. Miskolc Autumn Cultural Days (
Ste 1115, 121 Bloor St East, Toronto, ON M4W 3M5) Germany (%488 3505; I Úri utca 64-66; h9am-noon Sopron Festival Weeks ( Theatre, Jazz, pop and rock music, literary and theatrical performances,
Croatia (%01-489 0900;; Mon-Fri) quiet music, folk dancing and a handicraft fair, held in and exhibitions of photography and of industrial art take
Pantovčak 255-257, 10000 Zagreb) Ireland (%301 4960; Bank Center, Granite Tower, Sopron. place throughout Miskolc for a week.
France (%01-56 36 07 54;; 7th fl, V Szabadság tér 7; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-
7-9 square Vergennes, 75015 Paris) 4.30pm Mon-Fri) JULY FOOD
Germany Berlin (%030-203 100; info@ungarische Netherlands (%336-6300; II Füge utca 5-7; h10am- International Danube Folklore Festival Hungary has a varied, world-class cuisine; Unter den Linden 76, D-10117 Berlin); noon Mon-Fri) ( Authentic folk music and dance, and a wine-making tradition that goes back
Munich (%089-911 032;; Romania (%384 0271; XIV Thököly út 72; h8.30am- with performers from around Hungary and Europe, held in to the time of the Romans. For details, see
Vollmannstrasse 2, 81927 Munich) noon Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri) Enter from Izsó utca. Kalocsa, Baja and Szekszárd. p53.
DIREC TORY 372 D I R E C T O R Y • • G a y & Le s b i a n T r a v e l l e r s D I R E C T O R Y • • M a p s 373

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS assessment of your problem can be made. 17th-century prince of Transylvania Gábor
There’s not much gay life beyond Budapest For information on vehicle insurance, see COMING OF AGE Bethlen is on his own on one side of the
(p116) unless you take it along with you, p385, and for health insurance, p391. The legal age for voting, driving an auto- 2000Ft bill and meeting with his advisers
but the Budapest-biased freebie pamph- Worldwide cover to travellers for over 44 mobile and drinking alcohol is 18. In 2004 on the other.
let Na Végre! lists a handful of venues in countries is available online at www.lonely the age of consent for gays and lesbians The ‘greatest Hungarian’, Count István
the vidék (countryside); check out At Last! was lowered to 14 to come into line with Széchenyi, and his family home at Nagyc-
( Pick it up at gay venues that of heterosexual couples. enk are on the purple 5000Ft note. The
in Budapest or contact them directly. Other INTERNET ACCESS 10,000Ft bears a likeness of King Stephen,
useful websites, though primarily focused The Internet has arrived in a big way in with a scene in Esztergom appearing on the
on Budapest, include: www.budapestgay Hungary, and the blue signs announcing In the event of an accident, the drinking other side. The 20,000Ft note, currently the and ‘eMagyarország Pont’ are telling you that party is automatically regarded as guilty. highest denomination, has Ferenc Deák,
The Háttér Gay & Lesbian Association (%1-329 you can log on somewhere in the vicinity – the architect of the 1867 Compromise, on
3380, 06 40 200 358;; h6-11pm) has an be it via a free access terminal, at a commer- MAPS the recto and the erstwhile House of Com-
advice and helpline operating daily. Budapest cial Internet café or at a wifi hotspot. Many Hungary’s largest map-making company, mons in Pest (now the Italian Institute of (%06 30 932 3334;; libraries in Hungary have free terminals; at Cartographia (, publishes a Culture on VIII Bródy Sándor utca) on the
h4-8pm Mon-Fri Apr-Oct) can offer advice and/or hotels you usually have to pay to use the useful 1:450,000-scale sheet map (570Ft) verso.
provide information via email or, season- service. It’s hit or miss with hostels, but most of the country, and its Magyarország autó-
ally, by telephone. A lesbian website is www now have at least one terminal available to atlasza (Road Atlas of Hungary) is indis- ATMs, but it’s in Hungarian only. guests either for free or for a nominal sum. pensable if you plan to do a lot of travelling ATMs accepting most credit and cash cards
Commercial Internet cafés, where rates cost in the countryside by car. It comes in two are everywhere in Hungary, even in small
HOLIDAYS 200Ft to 700Ft per hour, abound in Buda- sizes and scales – 1:360,000 (2100Ft) and villages, and all the banks listed in the
Public Holidays pest. Their numbers are more limited else- 1:250,000 (2600Ft). The former has thumb- Information sections in this guide have
Hungary celebrates 10 ünnep (public holi- where in Hungary, but you’ll almost always nail plans of virtually every community in them. The best ones to use are the Euronet
days) each year: find one. Check the Information section of the land, while the larger-scale atlas has 23 ATMs as they dispense sums in units of
New Year’s Day 1 January cities and towns throughout this book. city maps. Bookshops in Hungary generally 5000Ft. Many of the ATMS at branches
1848 Revolution/National Day 15 March If you’re travelling with your own note- stock a wide variety of maps, or you could go of Országos Takarékpenztár (OTP), the
Easter Monday March/April book or hand-held computer, remember directly to the Cartographia (%312 6001; national savings bank, give out 20,000Ft
International Labour Day 1 May that the power-supply voltage in Hungary; VI Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 37; h10am-6pm Mon- notes, which are difficult to break.
Whit Monday May/June may vary from that at home, risking dam- Fri; mM3 Arany János utca) outlet in Budapest.
St Stephen’s/Constitution Day 20 August age to your equipment. The best investment Cartographia also produces national, Cash
1956 Remembrance Day/Republic Day 23 October is a universal AC adaptor for your appli- regional and hiking maps (average scales Nothing beats cash for convenience – or
All Saints’ Day 1 November ance, which will enable you to plug it in 1: 40,000 or 1:60,000), as well as city plans risk. It’s always prudent to carry a little
Christmas holidays 25-26 December anywhere. You’ll also need a plug adaptor (1: 10,000 to 1:20 000; around 590Ft each). foreign cash, though, preferably euros or
for European outlets; it’s often easiest to Smaller companies such as Topográf, Mag- US dollars, in case you can’t find an ATM
School Holidays buy these before you leave home. yar Térképház and Nyír-Karta also publish nearby or there’s no bank or travel agency
Hungarian school holidays fall during au- For the best sites to check out before ar- excellent city and specialised maps. open to cash your travellers cheques. You
tumn (first week of November), over the riving in Hungary, see p15. Since 1989 many streets, parks and can always change cash at a hotel.
Christmas and New Year period (12 days squares have been renamed. For more de-
from around 22 December to 2 January), LEGAL MATTERS tails, see the boxed text on p65. Credit Cards
over Easter (one week in March/April) and, Those violating Hungarian laws, even un- Credit cards, especially Visa, MasterCard
of course, in summer (11 weeks from 15 knowingly, may be expelled, arrested and/ MONEY and American Express, are widely accepted
June to 31 August). or imprisoned. Penalties for possession, use The Hungarian currency is the forint (Ft) in Hungary, and you’ll be able to use them at
or trafficking in illegal drugs in Hungary and today there are coins of 1Ft, 2Ft, 5Ft, many restaurants, shops, hotels, car-rental
INSURANCE are severe, and convicted offenders can ex- 10Ft, 20Ft, 50Ft and 100Ft. Notes come in firms, travel agencies and petrol stations.
A travel insurance policy to cover theft, loss pect long jail sentences and heavy fines. seven denominations: 200Ft, 500Ft, 1000Ft, They are not usually accepted at museums,
and medical problems is a good idea. There Another law that is taken very seriously 2000Ft, 5000Ft, 10,000Ft and 20,000Ft. supermarkets, or train and bus stations.
is a wide variety of policies available, so here is the 100% ban on alcohol when driv- The green 200Ft note features the 14th- Many banks, including K&H and Posta-
check the small print. ing. Do not think you will get away with century king Charles Robert and his castle Bank (represented at post offices nation-
You may prefer a policy that pays doctors even a few glasses of wine at lunch; po- at Diósgyőr near Miskolc. The hero of the wide), give cash advances on major credit
or hospitals directly rather than you having lice conduct routine roadside checks with independence wars, Ferenc Rákóczi II, and cards.
to pay on the spot and claim later. If you breathalysers and if you are found to have Sárospatak Castle are on the burgundy-
have to claim later, make sure you keep all even 0.001% of alcohol in your blood, you coloured 500Ft note. International Transfers
documentation. Some policies ask you to will be fined up to 30,000Ft on the spot. If The 1000Ft note is blue and bears a portrait Having money wired to Hungary through
call back (reverse charges) to a centre in the level is high, you will be arrested and of King Matthias Corvinus, with Hercules an agent of Western Union Money Transfer
your home country where an immediate your licence almost certainly taken away. Well at Visegrád Castle on the verso. The (%1-235 8484; is fast and fairly
DIREC TORY 374 D I R E C T O R Y • • P o s t D I R E C T O R Y • • S h o p p i n g 375

travel agencies at some 16 border crossings. Postal Rates SHOPPING
A HEALTHY MIX OF MONIES You can also have it sent by bank cheque or A letter of up to 30g sent within Hungary Hungarian shops are well stocked with
Although Hungary is now part of the EU, it deposited into your credit-card account. costs 52Ft (90Ft for priority mail) while for generally high-quality products. Books and
will retain its own currency until at least 2010. the rest of Europe it’s 170Ft (190Ft priority). folk-music tapes and CDs are affordable,
Prices in shops and restaurants are uni- Tipping Légiposta (airmail letters) of up to 20/50g and there is an excellent selection, especially
formly quoted in forint, but many hotels and Hungary is a very tip-conscious society, and are 185/270Ft within Europe and 210/350Ft of the much-loved classical music. Trad-
guesthouses and even MÁV, the national virtually everyone routinely tips waiters, for the rest of the world. Postcards cost 52Ft itional products include folk-art embroi-
rail company, give their rates in euros. In hairdressers and taxi drivers. Doctors and to send within Hungary, 110Ft within the dery and ceramics, pottery, painted wooden
such cases, we have followed suit and you dentists accept ‘gratitude money’, and even rest of Europe and 140Ft to the rest of the toys and boxes, dolls, basketry and porce-
can usually pay in either euros or forint. petrol station attendants who pump your world. lain (especially that from Herend and Zsol-
petrol and thermal spa attendants who walk To send a parcel, look for the sign nay). Feather or goose-down pillows and
you to your changing cabin expect some- ‘Csomag feladás’ or ‘Csomagfelvétel’. Pack- duvets (comforters), ranked second only
straightforward, and the procedure gener- thing. If you were less than impressed with ages sent within Hungary generally cost to the Siberian variety, are of exceptionally
ally takes less than 30 minutes. You should the service at the restaurant, the joyride in 690Ft for up to 5kg. Packages going abroad high quality and very good value.
know the sender’s full name, the exact the taxi or the way your hair was cut, leave must not weigh more than 2kg or you’ll face Some of Hungary’s new ‘boutique’ wines
amount and the reference number when next to nothing or nothing at all. He or she a Kafkaesque parade of forms and queues to (p55) make good, relatively inexpensive
you’re picking up the cash. The sender pays will get the message – loud and clear. fill; try to send small ones. You can send up gifts; a bottle of dessert Tokaj always goes
the service fee (about US$40 for US$500 The way you tip in restaurants is unusual. to 2kg in one box for 3470Ft surface mail to down well. Pálinka (fruit-flavoured bran-
sent, US$60 for US$1000). You never leave the money on the table – Europe and 4390Ft to the rest of the world. dies) are a stronger option.
this is considered both rude and stupid in Airmail rates are much higher and depend Foodstuffs that are expensive or difficult
Moneychangers Hungary – but tell the waiter how much on which of five zones the destination is to buy elsewhere – potted goose liver, saf-
It is easy to change money at banks, post you’re paying in total. If the bill is, say, located. For example, a 2kg package sent fron, dried forest mushrooms, jam (espe-
offices, tourist offices, travel agencies and 2700Ft, you’re paying with a 5000Ft note by airmail to the UK/USA/Australia costs cially the apricot variety), prepared meats
private exchange offices. Look for the and you think the waiter deserves a gra- 6550/9400/11,800Ft. like Pick salami, the many types of paprika –
words valuta (foreign currency) and váltó tuity of around 10%, first ask if service is make wonderful gifts (if you are allowed to
(exchange) to guide you to the correct place included (some restaurants in Budapest and Sending & Receiving Mail take them home). Be aware that in super-
or window. other big cities add it to the bill automatic- To get in and out of the post office with markets and outdoor markets, fresh food is
There’s no black market in Hungary to ally, which makes tipping unnecessary). If it a minimum of fuss, look for the window sold by weight or by darab (piece). When
speak of but exchange rates can vary sub- isn’t, say you’re paying 3000Ft or that you marked with the symbol of an envelope. ordering by weight, you specify by kilos or
stantially, so it pays to keep your eyes open. want 2000Ft back. Make sure the destination of your letter is deka (decagrams – 50dg is equal to 0.5kg or
And while the forint is a totally convertible written clearly, and simply hand it over to a little more than 1lb).
currency, you should avoid changing too Travellers Cheques the clerk, who will apply the stamps for you,
much as it will be difficult exchanging it You can change travellers cheques – Ameri- postmark it and send it on its way. TELEPHONE
beyond the borders of Hungary and its im- can Express, Visa, MasterCard and Thomas Hungarian addresses start with the name You can make domestic and international
mediate neighbours. Cook are the most recognisable brands – of the recipient, followed on the next line by calls from public telephones, which are usu-
at most banks and post offices. Banks the postal code and city or town, and then ally in good working order. They work with
Taxes & Refunds and bureaux de change generally don’t the street name and number. The postal both coins and phonecards, though the lat-
ÁFA, a value-added tax of between 5% and take a commission, but exchange rates code consists of four digits. The first one ter are now far more common. Telephone
25%, covers the purchase of all new goods can vary; private agencies are always the indicates the city, town or region (eg ‘1’ boxes with a black-and-white arrow and
in Hungary. It’s usually included in the price most expensive. OTP has branches every- is Budapest, ‘6’ is Szeged), the second and red target on the door and the word ‘Viss-
but not always, so it pays to check. Visitors where and offer among the best rates; Ibusz third are the district, and the last is the zahívható’ display a telephone number, so
are not exempt, but non-EU residents can is also a good bet. Travel agents usually neighbourhood. you can be phoned back.
claim refunds for total purchases of at least take a commission of 1% to 2%. Shops Mail addressed to poste restante in any
50,000Ft on one receipt, as long as they take never accept travellers cheques as payment town or city will go to the főposta (main Local & International Calls
the goods out of the country (and the EU) in Hungary. post office), which is generally listed under All localities in Hungary have a two-digit
within 90 days. The ÁFA receipts (avail- Information in the relevant section in telephone area code, except for Budapest,
able from where you made the purchases) POST this book. When collecting poste restante which has just a ‘1’. Local codes appear in
should be stamped by customs at the border, The Hungarian Postal Service (Magyar Posta; www mail, look for the sign ‘postán maradó small point type under the heading name of
and the claim has to be made within 183, whose logo is a jaunty, stylised ver- küldemények’ and be sure to have iden- each city and town in this book.
days of exporting the goods. You can then sion of St Stephen’s Crown, has improved tification on you. Since the family name To make a local call, pick up the receiver
collect your refund – minus commission – greatly in recent years, but the post offices always comes first in Hungarian usage and listen for the neutral and continuous
from the Global Refund ( themselves are usually fairly crowded and (see boxed text, p35), have the sender dial tone, then dial the phone number
desk in the departures halls of Terminal 2A service can be slow. To beat the crowds, ask underline your last name, as letters are (seven digits in Budapest, six elsewhere).
and 2B at Ferihegy International Airport in at kiosks, newsagents or stationery shops if very often misfiled under foreigners’ first For an intercity landline call within Hungary
Budapest, or branches of the Ibusz chain of they sell bélyeg (stamps). names. and whenever ringing a mobile telephone,
DIREC TORY 376 D I R E C T O R Y • • Ti m e D I R E C T O R Y • • V i s a s 377

dial %06 and wait for the second, more 630 800, from abroad + 36 30 30 30 600; www.tourinform and the International Ferry Pier in Buda-
melodious, tone. Then dial the area code USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS .hu) across the country. They are usually the pest. They are rarely issued on international
and phone number. Cheaper or toll-free best places to ask general questions and pick buses and never on trains. Be sure to retain
„ Domestic operator/enquiries (in English)
blue and green numbers start with %06 40 up brochures – and can sometimes pro- the separate entry and exit forms issued with
and 06 80 respectively. %198 vide more comprehensive assistance. The the visa that is stamped in your passport.
The procedure for making an interna- „ Information Plus (any enquiry; in English) main Tourinform office (Map p86; %1-438 8080; Single-entry tourist visas are issued at
tional call is the same as for a local call, %197; V Sütő utca 2; h8am-8pm) is Hungarian consulates or missions in the
except that you dial %00, wait for the se- „ International enquiries/operator (in in Budapest. applicants’ country of residence upon re-
cond dial tone, then dial the country code, English) %199 If your query is about private accommo- ceipt of US$40 (or equivalent) and three
the area code and the number. The country dation, flights or international train travel photos (US$65 at a mission outside the
„ Time/speaking clock (in Hungarian)
code for Hungary is %36. or you need to change money, you could country of residence or at the border).
turn to a commercial travel agency, such as A double-entry tourist visa costs US$75/100,
Mobile Phones „ Wake-up service (in Hungarian) %193 Ibusz, arguably the best for private accom- and you must have five photos. A multiple-
Hungary uses GSM 900, which is compat- modation, or Express, which issues student, entry visa is US$180/200. Single and double-
ible with the rest of Europe and Australia, youth, teacher and hostel cards, and sells entry visas are valid for six months prior
but not with the North American GSM and 5000F. Sample per-minute costs with discounted Billet International de Jeunesse to use. Multiple-entry visas are good for
1900 or the totally different system in Japan these cards are 25Ft to most European (BIJ) train and cheap air tickets. See the a year. (Prices quoted are for applicants’
(though some North Americans have GSM countries, 29Ft to Australia and New Zea- Information section under the various cit- country of residence/mission outside coun-
1900/900 phones that do work here). In land, and 50Ft to South Africa. ies and towns in this book for details. try of residence or at the border.)
Hungary you must always dial %06 when The HNTO has offices in more than Be sure to get a tourist rather than a
ringing mobile telephones, which have spe- TIME 20 countries worldwide. transit visa; the latter – available for single
cific area codes depending on the telecom Hungary lies in the Central European time Austria (%01-585 20 1213;; (US$38/50), double (US$65/90) and multi-
company: Pannon GSM (%06 20;, zone. Winter time is GMT plus one hour, Opernring 5, 2nd fl, A-1010 Vienna) ple (US$150/180) entries – is only good for
T-Mobile (%06 30; and Vodafone while in summer it’s GMT plus two hours. Czech Republic (%283 870 742;; a stay of 48 hours, you must enter and leave
(%06 70; Clocks are advanced at 2am on the last Sun- M Horákovée 81, 17006 Prague 7) through different border crossings, and al-
If you have a GSM phone, check with day in March and set back at the same time France (%01 53 70 67 17;; ready hold a visa (if required) for the next
your service provider about using it in Hun- on the last Sunday in October. 140 Ave Victor Hugo, 75116 Paris) country you visit.
gary, and beware of calls being routed inter- Without taking daylight-saving times Germany (%030-243 1460; www.ungarn-tourismus Tourist visas are only extended in emer-
nationally (very expensive for a ‘local’ call). into account, when it’s noon in Budapest .de; Neue Promenade 5, D-10178 Berlin) gencies (eg medical ones; 3000Ft) and this
If you’re going to spend more than just a it’s 3am in San Francisco, 6am in New York, Ireland (%01-661 2879;; must be done at the rendőrkapitányság
few days here and expect to use your phone 11am in London, noon in Paris, 1pm in 2 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2) (central police station) of any city or town
quite a bit, consider buying a rechargeable Bucharest, 2pm in Moscow, 8pm in Tokyo, Netherlands (%070-320 9092;; Laan 15 days before the original one expires.
SIM chip, which will reduce the cost of 9pm in Sydney and 11pm in Auckland. For van Nieuw Oost Indie 271, 2593 BS The Hague) You are supposed to register with the
making local calls (between 19Ft and 27Ft information about other time zones and UK (%020-7823 1032;; local police if staying in one place for more
a minute) to a fraction of what you’d pay on their relation to Hungary, see the World 46 Eaton Place, London SW1X 8AL) than 30 days; staff at your hotel, hostel,
your own mobile. Vodafone, with outlets Times Zones map (pp422-3). USA (%212-355 0240;; 150 East camp site or private room booked through
throughout the country, including Buda- An important note on the complicated 58th St, 33rd fl, New York, NY 10155-3398) an agency will do this for you. In other
pest (p68), has prepaid vouchers available way Hungarians tell time: like a few other situations – if you’re staying with friends
for 1000/2500Ft with 500/1500Ft worth of European languages, Magyar tells the time VISAS or relatives, for example – you or the head
credit. Top-up cards valid for three/six/12 by making reference to the next hour – not Citizens of virtually all European countries of the household will have to take care of
months cost 3000/7000/12,000Ft. the previous one as we do in English. Thus as well as Australia, Canada, Israel, Japan, this within 72 hours of moving in. Ad-
7.30 is fél nyolc óra (‘half eight’; sometimes New Zealand and the USA do not require dress registration forms for foreigners
Phonecards written f8) and the 24-hour system is often visas to visit Hungary for stays of up to 90 (lakcímbejelentő lap külföldiek részére) are
Phonecards, which are available from post used in giving the times of movies, concerts days. Nationals of South Africa (among usually available at post offices.
offices, newsagents, hotels and petrol sta- and so on. So a film at 7.30pm could appear others) still require visas. Check current visa
tions, come in message units of 50/120 and on a listing as ‘f8’, ‘f20’, ‘½8’ or ‘½20’. A requirements at a consulate, any HNTO or WOMEN TRAVELLERS
cost 800/1800Ft, but these are by far the quarter to the hour has a ¾ in front (thus Malév Hungarian Airlines office or on the Women should not encounter any particu-
most expensive way to go. As everywhere ‘¾8’ means 7.45), while quarter past is ¼ of website of the Hungarian Foreign Ministry (www lar problems while travelling in Hungary. If
else these days, there is a plethora of phone- the next hour (eg ‘¼9’ means 8.15)., as requirements often change you do need assistance and/or information,
cards on offer. Among the most widely without notice. ring the Women’s Line (Nővonal; %06 80 505 101;
available are T-Com’s Barangoló (%06 80 501 TOURIST INFORMATION Visas are issued at Hungarian consulates h6-10pm Thu-Tue) or Women for Women Against
255;, which comes in denomin- The Hungarian National Tourist Office (HNTO; www or missions, Ferihegy International Airport Violence (NANE; %1-267 4900;
ations of 400Ft, 1000Ft, 2000Ft and 5000Ft, or has a chain
and NeoPhone (%06 80 188 202;, of almost 140 tourist information bur–
with cards valued at 300Ft, 1000Ft, 2000Ft eaus called Tourinform (%within Hungary 06 80
378 T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 379

EgyptAir (MS; %1-266 4300;; hub to Sydney from Budapest costs 280,000Ft

Transport Cairo)
Finnair (AY; %1-317 4022;; hub
and to Melbourne 265,000Ft; return low sea-
son fares from Sydney are around A$1865
to A$2300 and from Melbourne A$2100
carrier, flies nonstop or via Prague, Ma- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (KL; %1-373 7737; www to A$2400. Look out for official discounts
drid and Amsterdam to Budapest’s Ferihegy; hub Amsterdam) and special deals, which are available direct
CONTENTS International Airport (%1-296 7000; LOT Polish Airlines (LO; %1-317 2444;; from the airline from time to time.
from North America, the Middle East and hub Warsaw) There are a number of flights from New
Getting There & Away 378 almost 60 cities in Continental Europe and Lufthansa (LH; %1-266 4511;; Zealand to European cities, with connect-
Entering Hungary 378 the British Isles. It also flies to Beijing, hub Frankfurt) ing flights to Budapest. Air New Zealand
Air 378 Shanghai and Guangzhou in China. SAS (SK; %1-266 2633;; hub flies daily from Auckland to Heathrow and
Land 380 Malév flights and, for the most part, those Copenhagen) connects with a nonstop Malév flight to

River 383 of its 18 or so code-share partners arrive and Tarom Romanian Airlines (RO; %1-235 0809; www Budapest. Return fares in the low season are
Getting Around 383 depart from Ferihegy’s Terminal 2A. Malév; hub Bucharest) from around NZ$1800 to NZ$2150.
Air 383 has a ticketing desk (%1-296 7211; h5am-11pm) Turkish Airlines (TK; %1-266 4291; www.turkishair
Bicycle 383 at Terminal 2A and another one at Terminal; hub Istanbul) Continental Europe & the UK
Boat 384 2B (%1-296 5767; h6am-8.30pm); at the latter Malév flies nonstop to Budapest from many
Bus 384 you’ll also find a left-luggage office (1/2/3/6hr Africa & the Middle East European cities, including the following:
Car & Motorcycle 385 350/700/1050/1400Ft, 12/24hr 1880/2200Ft, week 6500Ft; Malév flies daily to/from Tel Aviv while El Al Amsterdam, Athens, Berlin, Brussels, Bu-
Hitching 387 h24hr). flies there up to four times a week, depend- charest, Copenhagen, Dublin, Frankfurt,
Local Transport 387 Most other international airlines use Ter- ing on the season. Return flights start from Geneva, Hamburg, Helsinki, Istanbul, Kyiv,
Tours 387 minal 2B, which is next door to 2A and around US$290. There is a Malév service to Larnaca, Lisbon, London, Ljubljana, Ma-
Train 389 within easy walking distance. The super- Cairo up to four times a week and EgyptAir drid, Manchester, Milan, Moscow, Munich,
discount European carriers (opposite) use has several direct flights each week. Return Paris, Prague, Rome, Sarajevo, Skopje, Sofia,
Terminal 1, about 5km to the west. fares cost from US$245. Malév also flies Stockholm, Stuttgart, Thessaloniki, Tirana,
GETTING THERE & Other major carriers with offices in
nonstop to Beirut ($270; two to four times
a week return) and to Damascus (US$290;
Vienna, Warsaw, Zagreb and Zürich.
From Budapest, most destinations in
AWAY Aeroflot (SU; %1-318 5955;; hub
three to four times a week). Europe on Malév cost either 19,900Ft (eg
Paris, Berlin and Amsterdam) or 29,900Ft,
ENTERING HUNGARY Air Canada (AC; %1-266 8435;; Asia though Moscow and a few other destin-
Border formalities with Hungary’s three hub Toronto) Return flights from Hong Kong (with ations are 39,900Ft. Special deals, regularly
EU neighbours – Austria, Slovenia and Air France (AF; %1-483 8800;; KLM via Amsterdam, Lufthansa via Frank- available, will see these fares halved. Of
Slovakia – are virtually nonexistent. How- hub Paris) furt or Finnair via Helsinki) range from course flexibility – such as an open return
ever, as a member state that forms part of Alitalia (AZ; %1-483 2170;; hub Rome) US$576/782 for a ticket valid for 14/21 days ticket and the ability to change – will bump
the EU’s external frontier, Hungary must Austrian Airlines (OS; %1-327 9080;; to US$833/1000 for one good for two/three the average fare up to around 80,000Ft.
implement the strict Schengen border rules hub Vienna) months. These days the best place in Asia What Hungarians call the fapados
so expect a somewhat closer inspection of British Airways (BA; %1-411 5555;; to buy discount tickets for Eastern and (wooden bench) airlines, the super discount
your documents when travelling to/from hub London) Central Europe is Bangkok because of the carriers such as Air Berlin (,
Croatia, Romania, Ukraine and Serbia. CSA Czech Airlines (OK; %1-318 3045; www.czech-air surfeit of Eastern European flag-carriers EasyJet (, SkyEurope (www.skyeurope; hub Prague) passing through Bangkok airport. .com) and Wizzair (, have made
Passport El Al (LY; %1-266 2970;; hub Tel Aviv) A discounted return Budapest–Bangkok flying between Budapest and dozens of Euro-
Everyone needs a valid passport or, for citi- ticket should cost from 169,000Ft. Expect pean cities very affordable. Depending on
zens of the EU (but not Denmark, Ireland, to pay 285,000Ft from Budapest to Hong the destination, availability and the time of
Latvia, Sweden or the UK), a national iden- THINGS CHANGE Kong via London on British Airways. the flight, fares can be as low as 15,000Ft, but
tification card to enter Hungary. It’s a good The information in this chapter is particu- count on anything from 20,000Ft upward for
idea (though not a requirement) to carry your larly vulnerable to change. Check directly Australia & New Zealand most flights.
passport or other identification at all times. with the airline or a travel agent to make Although there are no direct flights to Buda-
Flights, tours and rail tickets can be sure you understand how a fare (and ticket pest, there are a number of options from USA & Canada
booked online at you may buy) works and be aware of the Australia. Qantas has direct flights from Malév runs a daily nonstop flight to/from
/travel_services. security requirements for international Sydney or Melbourne to London’s Heath- New York’s JFK International Airport (re-
travel. Shop carefully. The details given in row airport, connecting with a Malév or turn fare around US$500). Another option
AIR this chapter should be regarded as point- British Airways flight to Budapest. Another is to fly with KLM or Northwest Airlines
Airports & Airlines ers and are not a substitute for your own option is to fly from Sydney to Frankfurt to Amsterdam, and then board a Malév
Malév Hungarian Airlines (MA; %Hungary 06 40 21 careful, up-to-date research. or another European capital and then with flight to Budapest. Malév also has a nonstop
21 21, abroad 1 235 3888;, the national Malév to Budapest. A standard return flight service to/from Toronto four times a week
380 T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 381

(return fare just over C$800). For Montreal Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Tickets via Rijeka (return 14,900Ft, 8¾ hours, destinations in the south (eg Osijek in
fly Air Canada and Malév via Paris (CDG). cost 23,900/40,900Ft one way/return (to 830km) and then carrying on to Porec (re- Croatia and Sarajevo in Bosnia). These are
From Budapest, travelling with Malév, a both destinations), with a 10% discount for turn 16,900Ft, 11½ hours, 910km). There’s not hard and fast rules, so always make sure
return fare to New York starts at 99,900Ft those under 26, students and seniors over 60. a daily service year-round to Belgrade (one you check which station the train leaves from
but can go as low as 69,900Ft. From early June to late September, there’s an way/return 4100/6800Ft, nine hours, 422km) when you buy a ticket. For 24-hour infor-
extra departure on Friday evening. and two buses a day to Subotica (in Hungar- mation on international train services call
LAND In Amsterdam tickets are sold by Euro- ian, Szabadka; one way/return 3700/5500Ft, nationwide %06 40 49 49 49 or in Budapest
Hungary is well connected with all seven of lines Nederland (%020-560 87 88; Rokin 10) and 5¾ hours, 224km). %1-461 5500.
its neighbours by road, rail and even ferry, at Amstel bus station (%020-560 87 88; Juliana- To reduce confusion when requesting
though most transport begins or ends its plein 5). In Budapest you can buy them at the SLOVAKIA & CZECH REPUBLIC information or buying a ticket, specify your
journey in Budapest. Népliget bus station. From Népliget station there are buses to train by the name listed in the following
As elsewhere in Europe, timetables for Buses to London via Brussels and Lille Bratislava (in Hungarian, Pozsony; one way/ sections or on the posted schedule. You can

both domestic and international trains and (25¼ hours, 1755km) depart on Wednesday, return 3400/5400Ft, four hours, 213km) buy tickets at the three international train
buses use the 24-hour system. Also, Hun- Friday and Sunday and cost 29,900/42,900Ft daily and to Prague (9900/16,900Ft, stations in Budapest, but it’s easier at the
garian names are sometimes used for cities one way/return. There are additional ser- 8¼ hours, 640km) year-round on Tuesday MÁV international information and ticket centre
and towns in neighbouring countries on vices over the summer on Tuesday (April to Sunday. Extra overnight buses to Prague (Map p84; %1-461 5500, 352 2800;; VI An-
bus and train schedules (p404). to late October), Thursday (late June to run on Thursday and Sunday from late drássy út 35; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri Apr-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-
August) and Saturday (early July to early June to mid-August. Fri Oct-Mar). It accepts credit cards. For fares,
Border Crossings September). In London contact Eurolines UK check
Of the 65 or so border road crossings Hun- (%0870 514 3219; 52 Grosvenor Gardens SW1). UKRAINE
gary maintains with its neighbours, about Other Eurolines services between Buda- There are buses on Monday and Friday TICKETS & FARES
a third (mostly in the north and northeast) pest and Western European cities, with to Kyiv (one way/return 14,900/25,900Ft, There are big nationwide discounts for re-
are restricted to local citizens on both sides high-season (mid-June to mid-September) 18 hours, 1155km, twice a week) via Lviv turn (only) fares from Hungary to neigh-
of the border (or, in the case of Austria, one-way/return fares quoted, include the (one way/return 12,900/20,900Ft, 11 hours, bouring countries: 50% to Bulgaria, the
Slovakia and Slovenia, EU citizens). following: 850km). Czech Republic and Poland; 60% to Serbia
Athens (via Thessaloniki, 22,900/35,900Ft, 24½ hours, and Montenegro and the Baltic countries;
Bus 1570km, Saturday) Even if you only go as far as Thessaloniki, Train 50% to Belarus, Russia and Ukraine; and up
Most international buses are run by Eurolines the ticket price is the same. Magyar Államvasutak (, which trans- to 60% to Romania, Slovakia and Slovenia.
(%1-219 8021; or its Hungar- Berlin (via Prague and Dresden, 16,900/28,900Ft, 14¾ lates as Hungarian State Railways and is Also, there’s a 40% concession on return
ian associate, Volánbusz (%1-382 0888; www hours, 910km, four to six days a week) If you continue on universally known as MÁV, links up with fares from Budapest to six selected cities: In Budapest, all international to Hamburg, the cost goes up to 21,900/36,900Ft. Buses the European rail network in all directions. Prague and Brno in the Czech Republic,
buses arrive at and depart from the Népliget depart Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday year- Its trains run as far as London (via Munich and Warsaw, Kraków, Katowice and Gdy-
bus station (Map pp88-9; %1-219 8080; IX Üllői út 131; round, as well as on Thursday and Sunday from late June and Paris), Stockholm (via Hamburg and nia in Poland. Some 2nd-class return fares
metro Népliget) in Pest. The ticket office (h6am- to mid-August. Copenhagen), Moscow, Rome and Istanbul are: Prague 17,799Ft, Moscow 35,292Ft and
6pm Mon-Fri Sep-May, 6-8pm Mon-Fri Jun-Aug, 6am-4pm Paris (via Vienna, Strasbourg and Reims, 23,900/41,900Ft, (via Belgrade). Warsaw 24,276Ft.
Sat & Sun year-round) is upstairs. 21½ hours, 1460km, three days a week) Buses run The international trains listed here are For tickets to Western Europe you’ll pay
Monday, Wednesday and Friday year-round. To go only as expresses and many – if not all – require the same as elsewhere, unless you’re under
BUS PASSES far as Strasbourg costs 20,900/38,900Ft. seat reservations. On long hauls, sleepers 26 and qualify for the 30% to 60% Billet
Eurolines has passes valid for 15/30/40 days Rome (via Bologna and Florence, 23,900/37,900Ft, 20½ are almost always available in both 1st and International de Jeunesse (BIJ) discounts.
that allow unlimited travel between 35 Euro- hours, 1250km, up to seven times a week) The ticket to 2nd class, and couchettes are available in For that, ask at MÁV, Express or Wasteels
pean cities, including Budapest. You are Bologna is 16,900/27,900Ft and to Florence 18,900/ 2nd class. Not all express trains have dining (Map pp80-1; %1-210 2802; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, h8am-
not allowed to travel on the same routing 30,900Ft. Buses run Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and or even buffet cars; make sure you bring 6pm Sat) in Keleti train station.
more than twice. Adults pay €230/320/350 Saturday April to mid-September, with extra departures on along snacks and drinks as vendors can be The following are sample full-price return
in the low season (mid-September to late Tuesday and Wednesday and one on Sunday from mid- few and far between. Most Hungarian trains 2nd-class fares from Budapest: Amsterdam
June) and €325/435/490 in the high season. September to December. are hardly what you could call luxurious but 52,940Ft, Berlin (via Prague) 40,800Ft and
Passes for those under 26 cost €195/260/299 Venice (13,900/22,900Ft, 11¾ hours, 770km, up to seven they are generally clean and punctual. (via Vienna) 45,645Ft, London 96,696Ft,
or €275/355/420. times a week) Buses keep the same schedule as the Rome In Budapest, almost all international Munich 25,143Ft, Rome (via Ljubljana)
ones. trains arrive and depart from Keleti sta- 61,098Ft and Vienna 11,578Ft. There’s a
WESTERN EUROPE Vienna (via Győr, 5490/7990Ft, 3¼ hours, 254km, four tion (Map pp80-1; Eastern train station; %1-313 6835; 30% discounted return fare to Vienna/and
From Népliget station there’s a long-distance buses a day) VIII Kerepesi út 2-6); however, some trains to cer- Graz of 8823Ft and 10,710Ft respectively if
bus that runs throughout the year to Am- tain destinations in the east (eg Romania) you return to Budapest within four days.
sterdam via Frankfurt and Düsseldorf (20½ CROATIA AND SERBIA & MONTENEGRO leave from Nyugati station (Map p84; Western train The 1st-class seats are around 50% more
hours, 1435km, Monday, Wednesday, Fri- From late June to September a bus leaves station; %1-349 0115; VI Teréz körút 55-57), while expensive than 2nd class,
day and Saturday). The bus continues on Népliget station for Pula (return 16,900Ft, Déli station (Map p83; Southern train station; %1-375 InterCity (IC) and EuroCity (EC) trains
to Rotterdam (21½ hours, 1510km) on 9¾ hours, 775km) every Friday, travelling 6293; I Krisztina körút 37) handles trains to some charge supplements of between 200Ft and
382 T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 383

480Ft. International seat reservation costs trains departing from the Westbahnhof in- Two daily trains make the 1¾-hour, 45km- bridges on the Pest side. In Vienna, the
vary according to the destination and fines are clude the EC 25/24 from Cologne (11 hours, long journey daily between Subotica and boat docks at the Reichsbrücke pier near
levied on those without tickets (2000Ft, plus 1247km) and Frankfurt (10 hours, 1026km), Szeged. Mexikoplatz.
full single fare) or seat reservations (2000Ft, the EN Wiener Walzer (11½ hours, 808km) In April and from mid-September to Oc-
plus reservation fee of 200Ft to 350Ft) on from Zürich, the Dacia to Bucharest (13½ CROATIA, SLOVENIA AND BOSNIA & tober there is a daily sailing at 9am from
trains where they are compulsory. hours, 874km) and the IC Avala to Belgrade HERCEGOVINA both Budapest and Vienna. From May to
Sleeper prices depend on the destin- (10 hours, 647km). The early morning EC You can get to Budapest from Zagreb (seven mid-September the boats leave both cities
ation, but a two-berth 2nd-class sleeper to Lehár Ferenc departs from Vienna’s Süd- hours, 395km) on two trains that pass through at 8am.
Berlin/Prague/Venice/Moscow costs 5585/ bahnhof. None of these trains requires a res- Siófok on Lake Balaton’s southern shore: For information and tickets contact
3570/6630/5360Ft per person per night. ervation, though it’s highly recommended the Maestral, which originates in Split, and Mahart PassNave (Map p86; %1-484 4013; www
A 2nd-class couchette in a compartment for in summer. the EC Goldoni, which goes from Venice to; V Belgrád rakpart; 8am-6pm) in Bu-
six people costs between 2400Ft and 3417Ft Up to four trains leave Vienna’s Süd- Budapest via Ljubljana (10 hours, 504km). dapest and Mahart PassNave Wien (%01-72 92

on the Transbalkan to Romania and Greece, bahnhof every day for Sopron (75 min- Two other trains from Ljubljana are the IC 161/2; Handelskai 265) in Vienna.
and 4973Ft on the Kálmán Imre to Munich. utes, 76km) via Ebenfurth. As many as a Citadella and the EN Venezia, which also
Tickets are valid for 60 days from purchase dozen a day also serve Sopron from Wiener comes from Venice. The IC 817/816 linking
and stopovers are permitted. Neustadt, which is easily accessible from
Vienna. Three daily milk trains make the
Sarajevo with Budapest (14 hours, 616km)
goes via Pécs.
RAIL PASSES 2½-hour, 136km-long trip from Graz to Hungary’s domestic transport system is ef-
Covering from one to eight ‘zones’, Inter Rail Szombathely. UKRAINE & RUSSIA ficient, comprehensive and inexpensive. In
( passes can be purchased The EC 171/170 travels from Berlin (Zoo From Moscow to Budapest (42 hours, general, almost everything runs to sched-
by nationals of European countries (or and Ostbahnhof stations) to Budapest (12½ 2106km), there’s only the Tisza Express, ule, and the majority of Hungary’s towns
residents of at least six months) from MÁV. hours, 1002km) via Dresden, Prague and which travels via Kyiv and Lvov in Ukraine. and cities are easily negotiated on foot.
There are three price groups for the passes: Bratislava. The express Spree-Donau Kurier Most nationalities require a transit visa to
adult, ages 12 to 26 (referred to here as arrives from Berlin via Nuremberg and Vi- travel through Ukraine. AIR
‘youth’) and child (four to 11). The price enna (14 hours). There are no scheduled flights within Hun-
for any one zone is €229/156/115 per adult/ ROMANIA gary. The cost of domestic air taxis is pro-
youth/child for 16 days and €317/220/159 CZECH REPUBLIC, SLOVAKIA & POLAND From Bucharest to Budapest (14 hours, hibitive (eg from at least 150,000Ft for up to
for 22 days in two zones. Hungary is in Zone In addition to the EC 171/170, Budapest 874km) you can choose from four trains: three people from Budapest to Szeged and
D along with the Czech Republic, Slovakia, can be reached from Prague (seven hours, the Dacia, the EN Ister, the Transbal- back), and the trips can take almost as long
Poland, Croatia and Bosnia-Hercegovina. 611km) on the EC 175/174, the express Ja- kan and the Pannonia. All go via Arad as the train, when you add the time it takes
A Global pass, covering all eight zones, costs roslav Hašek, and the Pannónia Express, (5½ hours, 253km) and some require seat to get to and from the airports.
€437/308/219. which then carries on to Bucharest. The reservations. Two air taxi companies are Farnair Hun-
It’s almost impossible for a standard Amicus runs directly from Bratislava (three There are two daily connections from gary (%1-347 6040;, which flies
Eurail pass ( to pay for itself hours, 235km) every day. Cluj-Napoca to Budapest (eight hours, to/from the airstrip next to Ferihegy Ter-
in Hungary. If you are a non-European The EC Polonia and the express Báthory 402km) via Oradea: the Ady Endre and the minal 1, and Jetstream (%06 20 399 6782; www
resident, you may consider one of its com- leave Warsaw daily for Budapest (13 hours, Corona. The EC Traianus links Budapest in Hungarian), based at Tököl air-
bination tickets allowing you to travel over 901km) passing through Bratislava or with Timişoara (six hours, 310km). port on Csepel Island opposite Százhalom-
a fixed period for a set price. These include Štúrovo and Katowice. The Cracóvia runs batta, about 30km southwest of central
the Hungary N’ Slovenia/Croatia pass and the from Kraków to Budapest (10½ hours, RIVER Budapest.
Romania N’ Hungary pass, offering five/10 days 590km) via Košice. Another train, the A hydrofoil service on the Danube River
of travel on those countries’ rail networks Rákóczi, links Budapest with Košice. between Budapest and Vienna (5½ to BICYCLE
for adults US$200/300, youths US$140/210 Three daily trains cover the 90km from 6½ hours, 282km) operates daily from Hungary offers endless opportunities for
and children aged five to 11 US$100/150. Košice to Miskolc (two hours). The 2km early April to October; passengers can dis- cyclists: challenging slopes in the north,
Buy the pass before you leave home. hop from Sátoraljaújhely to Slovenské embark at Bratislava with advance notice. much gentler terrain in Transdanubia and
For information on Eurail’s Hungary pass, Nové Mesto is only a four-minute ride on Adult one-way/return fares for Vienna are flat though windy (and hot in summer) cy-
see p390. the train, which runs just once at day at €79/99 and for Bratislava €69/89. Students cling on the Great Plain. The problem is bi-
8.40am. with ISIC cards pay €67/84 to Vienna and cycle rentals. They can be very hard to come
WESTERN EUROPE €59/76 to Bratislava, and children under by and your best bets are camping grounds,
Seven trains daily link Vienna with Buda- BULGARIA AND SERBIA & MONTENEGRO six go free. Taking a bicycle costs €18 resort hotels and – very occasionally –
pest (three hours, 273km) via Hegyeshalom The Transbalkan, which originates in Thes- each way. bicycle repair shops. See Activities under
and Győr. Most depart from Vienna’s West- saloniki in northern Greece and travels via In Budapest, ferries arrive and de- the various cities and towns for guidance.
bahnhof, including the EuroCity Bartók Bucharest, links Sofia with Budapest (25 part from the International Ferry Pier Remember when planning your itinerary
Béla and the EuroNight Kálmán Imre, both hours, 1366km). Trains between Budapest (Nemzetközi hajóállomás) on V Belgrád that bicycles are banned from all motor-
coming from Munich (7½ hours, 742km) and Belgrade (seven hours, 374km) via rakpart, between the Elizabeth (Erzsébet ways and national highways with a single
via Salzburg (six hours, 589km). Other Subotica are the Beograd and the IC Avala. híd) and Independence (Szabadság híd) digit, and bikes must be equipped with
384 T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 385

lights and reflectors. Bicycles can be taken posted at the stop itself; the times shown and holidays), szabad és munkaszünetes CAR & MOTORCYCLE
on many trains but not on buses. can be different from those shown on the nap (Saturday, Sunday and holidays), sza- Automobile Associations
For more information, see p50. tábla (main board). badnap kivételével naponta (daily except In the event of a breakdown, the so-called
Tickets are usually purchased directly Saturday), munkaszünetes nap kivételével Yellow Angels (Sárga Angyal; %nationwide 24hr 188,
BOAT from the driver, who gives change and will naponta (daily except holidays) and iskolai Budapest 1-345 1755) of the Hungarian Automobile
From April to late October the Budapest- hand you a receipt as a ticket. There are nap (school days). Club (Map pp80-1; Magyar Autóklub; %1-212 2821, 24hr
based shipping company Mahart PassNave sometimes queues for intercity buses (es- In general bus services to/from most helpline %1- 345 1755; II Rómer Flóris 4/a) do basic
(p383) runs excursion boats on the Danube pecially on Friday afternoon), so it’s wise inland destinations, but especially north car repairs free of charge if you belong to
from Budapest to Szentendre, Vác, Visegrád to arrive early. Smoking is not allowed and north-central Hungary, are served by an affiliated organisation such as AAA in
and Esztergom; and hydrofoils from Buda- on buses in Hungary, though a 10- or 20- Népliget bus station (Map pp88-9; %1-219 8080; the USA, AA or RAC in the UK. Towing,
pest to Visegrád, Nagymaros and Esztergom minute rest stop is made about every two or IX Üllői út 131; mM3 Népliget; hticket office 6am-6pm however, is still very expensive even with
between late May and early September. For three hours. Seats on Volánbusz are spaced Mon-Fri Sep-May, 6-8pm Mon-Fri Jun-Aug, 6am-4pm Sat & these reciprocal memberships. The number

details, see p132. far enough apart for you to be able to fit Sun). Generally the Stadionok bus station (Map to ring in an emergency is %188.
Mahart also schedules three to five excur- your pack or bag between your knees. pp80-1; %1-251 0125, 252 2995; XIV Hungária körút 48- For 24-hour information on traffic and
sions in summer from Budapest to places Posted bus timetables can be horribly 52; mM2 Stadionok; hticket office 6am-6pm Mon-Fri, public road conditions around Hungary,
like Kalocsa and Solt on the Great Plain. confusing if you don’t speak Hungarian. 6am-4pm Sat & Sun) serves cities and towns to contact Útinform (%1-336 2400, 322 2238; www
Its services on certain sections of the Tisza The things to remember when reading a the east of the capital while buses to south- In the capital ring Főinform (%1-
River between April and mid-October – timetable are that indulás means ‘departures’ west Hungary use Etele tér bus station (Map 317 1173).
Sárospatak to Tokaj (2¼ hours, 36km), and érkezés means ‘arrivals’. Some time- pp88-9; %1-382 4900; XI Etele tér; red bus No 7; h6am-
for example, and Szeged to Csongrád (4¼ table symbols are shown in the table, p384. 6pm) in Buda. Driving Licence
hours, 72km) – are only available to groups Numbers one to seven in a circle refer The Árpád Bridge bus station (Map pp78-9; Foreign driving licences are valid for one
of at least 40 people and cost between to the days of the week, beginning with %1-329 1450; XIII Róbert Károly körút; mM3 Árpád year after entering Hungary. If you don’t
19,000Ft and 29,000Ft per hour. Monday. Written footnotes you might see híd; hticket office 6am-8pm) on the Pest side of hold a European driving licence and plan to
Other passenger ferry services are the include: naponta (daily), hétköznap (week- Árpád Bridge is the place to catch buses drive here, obtain an International Driving
Budapest transport company BKV (Budapest days), munkanap (workdays), szabadnap for the Danube Bend and some towns in Permit (IDP) from your local automobile
Transport Company; %369 1359;, which (Saturday), munkaszünetes nap (Sunday the Northern Uplands (eg Balassagyarmat, association before you leave – you’ll need
operates on the Danube in Budapest, and Szécsény and Salgótarján). The small Széna a passport photo and a valid local licence.
the Balaton Shipping Co (Balatoni Hajózási Rt; %84- BUS TIMETABLE SYMBOLS tér bus station (Map pp80-1; %1-201 3688; I Széna It is usually inexpensive and valid for one
310 050;; Krúdy sétány 2, Siófok), tér 1/a; hticket office 6.30am-4.30pm; mM3 Mosz- year. Be aware that an IDP is not valid un-
on Lake Balaton. kva tér) in Buda handles some traffic to and less accompanied by your original driver’s
Monday to Saturday
(except public holidays) from the Pilis Hills and towns northwest licence.
BUS Monday to Friday
of the capital, with a half-dozen departures Third-party liability insurance is com-
Hungary’s Volánbusz ( net- (except public holidays) to Esztergom (from bay No 5) as an alter- pulsory in Hungary. If your car is registered
work is a good – and sometimes neces- native to the Árpád. in the EU, it is assumed you have it. Other
Monday to Thursday
sary – alternative to the trains. In Southern (except public holidays) A few of the larger bus stations have motorists must show a Green Card or they
Transdanubia and many parts of the Great left-rooms, but they generally close early will have to buy insurance at the border.
first working day of the week
Plain, buses are essential unless you are (usually Monday) (around 6pm). Check your bag at the train
prepared to make several time-consuming last working day of the week
station, which is almost always nearby; the Fuel
changes on the train. For short trips around (usually Friday) left-luggage offices there keep much longer Ólommentes benzin (unleaded petrol 95/98
the Danube Bend or Lake Balaton areas, hours. octane) is available everywhere. Most sta-
buses are preferable to trains. Saturday & public holidays tions also have gázolaj (diesel).
In most cities and large towns it is usually
Saturday, Sunday
possible to catch at least one direct bus a day & public holidays Bus fares are between 20% and 30% more Hire
to fairly far-flung areas of the country – for expensive than comparable 2nd-class train In general, you must be at least 21 years old
example, Pécs to Sopron (5½ hours, 285km) Sunday & public holidays fares. At the time of writing Volánbusz and have had your licence for a year to rent
or Eger to Szeged (five hours, 240km). day before the first working day charged: a car. Drivers under 25 sometimes have to
National buses arrive and depart from of the week (usually Sunday but pay a surcharge. All the big international
Monday when Sunday is a public
Budapest’s távolságiautóbusz pályaudvar holiday) fare distance firms have offices in Budapest, and there are
(long-distance bus stations), not the local scores of local companies throughout the
school days
stations, which are called helyiautóbusz 97Ft for up to 5km country, but don’t expect many bargains.
pályaudvar. Outside the capital the stations working days during school 133Ft for 10km For details, see p122.
are often found side by side or in the same holidays (mid-June to August; 605Ft for 50km
first week of November;
building. Arrive early to confirm the cor- Christmas & New Year; one week 1210Ft for 100km Insurance
rect departure bay or kocsiállás (stand), and in March/April) 2410Ft for 200km All accidents should be reported to the po-
be sure to check the individual schedule 3630Ft for 300km lice (%107) immediately. Several insurance
386 T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 387

Road Distances (km) There is virtually a 100% ban on alcohol Hitchhiking is legal everywhere in Hun-
when you are driving, and this rule is taken gary except on motorways. Though it isn’t
very seriously by all (p372). It’s not much as popular as it once was (and can be very
fun while on holiday, but you’ll have to fol- difficult here), the road to Lake Balaton is
low the lead of Hungarians and take turns always jammed with hitchhikers in the holi-
Budapest 203 with a companion in abstaining at meal and day season. There is a ride-sharing service
Debrecen 130 226 other times. Those who don’t believe this in the capital called Kenguru (p123) that
Dunaújváros 210 67 277 warning will learn the hard way – as one matches drivers and passengers for a fee.
Eger 220 128 130 194
of us did.
327 123 350 142 251
314 189 381 146 317 201
In any case, when driving in Hungary LOCAL TRANSPORT
Kecskemét 124 85 191 86 158 208 190
you’ll want to keep your wits about you; Public Transport
Miskolc 228 179 98 246 61 303 368 199 this can be quite a trying place for motorists. Urban transport is well developed in Hun-

Nyíregyháza 179 245 49 311 145 368 434 240 93 It’s not that drivers don’t know the high- gary, with efficient bus and, in many cities
Pécs 283 198 367 131 326 241 67 176 377 416 way code; everyone has to attend a driver’s and towns, trolleybus services. Budapest,
Sopron 414 217 436 229 338 87 220 295 390 455 287 education course and pass an examination. Szeged, Miskolc and Debrecen also have
Szeged 94 171 224 158 245 294 251 86 286 273 189 381 (That ‘T’ on the roof or back of a vehicle trams, and there’s a three-line metro (under-
Székesfehérvár 258 66 292 55 194 87 126 134 245 310 153 174 206
indicates tanuló vezető or ‘learner driver’, ground or subway) system and a suburban
Szolnok 107 97 129 148 121 220 252 62 162 179 238 307 130 163
Szombathely 404 222 448 211 350 105 178 280 402 467 245 70 352 156 319
by the way – not ‘taxi’.) But overtaking on railway known as the HÉV in the capital.
Veszprém 292 110 336 99 238 77 127 168 289 355 166 143 240 44 207 111
blind curves, making turns from the out- You’ll probably make extensive use of
Zalaegerszeg 392 224 450 216 352 154 124 268 403 468 190 124 342 161 321 54 119 side lane, running stop signs and lights, and public transport in Budapest but little (if
jumping lanes in roundabouts are everyday any) in provincial towns and cities: with
















occurrences. very few exceptions, most places are quite
Though many cities and towns have a manageable on foot, and bus services are
confusing system of one-way streets, pedes- not all that frequent except in the largest
trian zones and bicycle lanes, parking is not settlements. Generally, city buses meet in-
a big problem in the provinces. Most cen- coming long-distance trains; hop onto any-
tres now require that you ‘pay and display’ thing waiting outside when you arrive and
when parking your vehicle – parking disks, you’ll get close to the city centre.
coupons or stickers are available at news- You must purchase transport tickets
companies handle auto liability, and minor Road Rules stands, petrol stations and, increasingly, au- (usually from 150Ft) at newsstands or ticket
claims can be settled without complications. You must drive on the right. Speed lim- tomated ticket machines. In smaller towns windows beforehand and validate them
Any claim on insurance policies bought in its for cars and motorbikes are consistent and cities a warden (usually a friendly pen- once aboard. Travelling without a ticket (or
Hungary can be made to Allianz Hungária (%06 throughout the country and strictly en- sioner) will approach you as soon as you ‘riding black’) is an offence; you’ll be put off
40 421 421, 01-269 0033) in Budapest. It is one of forced: 50km/h in built-up areas (from the emerge from the car and collect 100Ft or so and fined on the spot. Don’t try to argue;
the largest insurance companies in Hungary town sign as you enter to the same sign with for each hour you plan to park. In Budapest the inspector has heard it all before.
and deals with foreigners all the time. a red line through it as you leave); 90km/h parking on the street now costs between
on secondary and tertiary roads; 110km/h 120Ft and 400Ft per hour, depending on Taxi
Road Conditions on most highways/dual carriageways; and the neighbourhood. Taxis are plentiful on the streets of most
Roads in Hungary are generally good – in 130km/h on motorways. Exceeding the You must obtain a motorway pass or mat- Hungarian cities and, if you are charged the
some cases excellent nowadays – and there limit will earn you a fine of between 5000Ft rica (vignette) to access Hungary’s motor- correct fare, very reasonably priced. Flag fall
are several basic types. Motorways, preceded and 30,000Ft, which must be paid by postal ways. Passes, which cost 1120Ft for four varies, but a fare between 6am and 10pm is
by an ‘M’ (including the curiously named cheque or at any post office. days (1450Ft between May and September), from 200Ft (in Budapest from 300Ft), with
M0 half-ring road around Budapest), will The use of seat belts in the front (and 2300Ft for 10 days and 3900Ft for a month, the charge per kilometre about the same,
eventually total eight. At present they link in the back – if fitted – outside built-up are available at petrol stations, post offices depending on whether you booked it by tele-
the capital with Vienna via Győr (M1) and areas) is compulsory in Hungary, but this and some motorway entrances and border phone (cheaper) or hailed it on the street.
Croatia via the southern shore of Lake Bala- rule is often ignored. Using a mobile phone crossings. The best places to find taxis are in ranks at
ton (M7). They also run along the eastern while driving is prohibited but again this bus and train stations, near markets and
bank of the Danube Bend (M2), part of the law is universally ignored. A law that is HITCHING around main squares. But you can flag
way to Slovakia as far as Miskolc (M3) and taken very seriously is the one requiring Hitching is never entirely safe in any coun- down cruising taxis anywhere at any time.
en route to Szeged and Serbia via Kecskemét all drivers to use their headlights through- try and we don’t recommend it. Travellers At night, vacant taxis have an illuminated
as far as Kiskunfélegyháza (M5). National out the day outside built-up areas. Motor- who decide to hitch are taking a small but sign on the roof.
highways (dual carriageways) are desig- cyclists must illuminate headlights too, potentially serious risk. However, many
nated by a single digit without a prefix and but at all times and everywhere. They also people choose to hitch, and the advice that TOURS
fan out mostly from Budapest. Secondary/ must wear helmets – a law that is strictly follows should help to make their journeys A number of travel agencies, including Vista
tertiary roads have two/three digits. enforced. as fast and safe as possible. and Ibusz (p68), and Cityrama and Hungary
388 T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 389

Program Centrum (p102) offer excursions Hungary, and EuroCity (EC) ones levy a

Satu Mare

Railway Connections
100 km


Schematic Map of
and special-interest guided tours (horse rid- supplement, which generally includes a seat.
ing, cycling, bird-watching, Jewish culture Gyorsvonat (fast trains), indicated on the

50 miles

etc) to every corner of Hungary. timetable by boldface type, a thicker route

By way of example, Cityrama has a 4½- line and/or an ‘S’, often require a seat reser-

hour tour by boat and bus to Szentendre or vation. Személyvonat (passenger trains) are


Gödöllő by bus (11,000Ft; children under the real milk runs and stop at every city,

12 free or half-price); and an 8½-hour town, village and hamlet along the way.

tour of the Danube Bend by coach and Depending on the station, departures


boat, with stops at Visegrád and Esztergom and arrivals are announced by loudspeaker/

(14,000Ft). Cityrama also offers day trips Tannoy or on an electronic board and are


to Lake Balaton (Balatonfüred and Tihany) always on a printed timetable – yellow for




and Herend (16,000Ft, nine to 10 hours), indul (departures) and white for érkezik (ar-



Edelény Boldogkªváralja
as well as to Lajosmizse on the Southern rivals). On these, fast trains are marked in


Békéscsaba Sarkad
Plain (18,000Ft, eight hours). Hungary Pro- red and local trains in black. The number



Tótkomlós Mezªhegyes
gram Centrum offers similar tours at almost (or sometimes letter) next to the word


the same prices, as well as an eight-hour vágány indicates the ‘platform’ from which


trip to Bugac in Kiskunság National Park the train departs or arrives; for symbols and





(19,000Ft) and a nine-hour tour of the Eger abbreviations used, see the table on p384.



wine region (22,000Ft). Vista has a six-day If you plan to do a lot of travelling by


tour of the country that takes in parts of the train, get yourself a copy of MÁV’s official



Northern Uplands, Great Plain, Southern timetable (Menetrend; 850/1550Ft in small/


Transdanubia and Lake Balaton region. The large format), which is available at most



tour includes accommodation and half- large stations and the MÁV office on An-


board and costs €599/499 per person single/ drássy út in Budapest. It also has explana-

double-sharing. tory notes in several languages, including






TRAIN All train stations have left-luggage offices,


MÁV ( operates reliable and rela- some of which stay open 24 hours. You


tively comfortable train services on just sometimes have to pay the fee (300/600Ft


under 8000km of track, exactly a third of per normal/large bag per day) at another

Banská Bystrica


which is electrified. All the main railway office or window nearby, which is usually

Bicske Budakeszi

lines converge on Budapest, though many marked pénztár (cashier).


ube River



secondary lines link provincial cities and Some trains have a carriage especially for Ipoly




towns. There are three main stations in bicycles; on other trains, bicycles must be


Budapest. In general, Keleti station serves placed in the first or last cars. You are able


destinations in the Northern Uplands and to freight a bicycle for 25% of a full 2nd-

the Northeast; Nyugati station the Great class fare.





Plain and the Danube Bend; and Déli sta-

a ton

Tickets & Fares


tion Transdanubia and Lake Balaton. But


Riv Sellye
these are not hard and fast rules; confirm the Domestic 2nd-class train fares are 946/





departure station when you buy your ticket. 1926/2676/3100/3524Ft for 100/200/300/




The 24-hour number for domestic train in- 400/500km. To travel 1st class costs 50% be áv




formation is %06 40 49 49 49 nationwide more.


Lake Hegyeshalom


or 1-461 5400 in Budapest. Passengers holding a ticket of insufficient


Tickets for egy útra (one way) and oda- value must pay the difference plus a fine


vissza (return) journeys in 1st and 2nd class of 2000Ft. If you buy your ticket on the





are available at stations, the MÁV central ticket train rather than at the station, there’s a Fertª
office (%1-461 5400, 322 8082; VI Andrássy út 35;

500Ft surcharge. You can be fined 500Ft for


h9am-6pm Mon-Fri Apr-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Mar) travelling on a domestic IC train without


in Budapest and certain travel agencies. having paid the supplement and the same
There are several types of train. Express amount for not having a seat reservation

(Ex on the timetable) trains usually re- when it is compulsory.

quire a seat reservation. The InterCity (IC) On Hungarian domestic trains, seat res-
trains, the fastest and most comfortable in ervations may be compulsory (indicated on
390 T R A N S P O R T • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d

the timetable by an ‘R’ in a box), mandatory via Badacsonytomaj) and along the Danube
only on trains departing from Budapest (an Bend from Budapest to Szob or Esztergom.
‘R’ in a circle) or simply available (just a For information contact MÁV Nostalgia (%1-
plain ‘R’). 238 0558; in Keleti train
Express trains usually require a seat res- station.
ervation costing 130Ft, while the IC ones The only other train line in Hungary is
levy a surcharge of between 200Ft and called GySEV and links Győr and Sopron
480Ft, which includes the reservation. with Ebenfurth in Austria.

Special Trains Train Passes

Some 16 keskenynyomközű vonat (narrow- The Hungary pass from Eurail, avail-
gauge trains) for the most part run by Állami able to non-European residents only, costs

Erdei Vasutak (ÁEV; State Forest Railways) US$52/82 for five/10 days of 2nd-class travel
on 220km of track can be found in many in a 15-day period and US$79/124 for 1st
wooded and hilly areas of the country. They class. Children five to 11 pay half-price.
are usually taken as a return excursion by Euro Domino Hungary is a pass that al-
holiday-makers, but in some cases can be lows European residents to travel on Hun-
useful for getting from A to B (eg Miskolc gary’s entire rail network for between three
to Lillafüred and the Bükk Hills). and eight days of travel over a one-month
An independent branch of MÁV runs vin- period. A three-day pass costs €92/60 per
tage nosztalgiavonat (steam trains) in sum- adult in 1st/2nd class and €47 for those
mer, generally along the northern shore of aged 12 to 25. Eight-day passes cost €203/
Lake Balaton (eg from Keszthely to Tapolca 136/100.

should find out if there is a reciprocal ar-
rangement for free medical care between
CONTENTS their country and Hungary.
In Hungary, foreigners are entitled to
Before You Go 391 first-aid and ambulance services only when
Insurance 391 they have suffered an accident and require
Recommended Vaccinations 391 immediate medical attention; follow-up
Internet Resources 391 treatment and medicine must be paid for.
In Transit 392 If you do need health insurance while
Deep Vein Thrombosis 392 travelling (p372), consider a policy that
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 392 covers you for the worst possible scenario,
In Hungary 392 such as an accident requiring an ambu-
Availability & Cost of Health Care 392 lance or an emergency flight home. Find
Infectious Diseases 392 out in advance if your insurance plan will
Environmental Hazards 392 make payments directly to providers or re-
Women’s Health 393 imburse you later for overseas health ex-
Sexual Health 393 penditures. The former option is generally
preferable, as it doesn’t require you to pay
Good travel health depends on your prede- out of pocket in a foreign country.
parture preparations, your daily health care
while travelling and the way you handle RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS

any medical problem that develops while Hungary doesn’t require any vaccination
you are on the road. Although the potential of international travellers, but the World
dangers might seem frightening, in real- Health Organisation (WHO) recommends
ity few travellers experience anything more travellers be covered for diphtheria, tetanus,
than an upset stomach. measles, mumps, rubella and polio, regard-
less of their destination. Since most vaccines
don’t produce immunity until at least two
BEFORE YOU GO weeks after they’re given, visit a physician or
clinic at least six weeks before departure.
A little planning before departure, particu-
larly for pre-existing illnesses or conditions, INTERNET RESOURCES
will save trouble later. See your dentist be- The WHO’s online publication Inter-
fore a long trip, carry a spare pair of con- national Travel and Health is revised an-
tact lenses or glasses, and take your optical nually and is available at
prescription with you. Bring medications Other useful websites:
in their original, clearly labelled containers. Advice on travel for the elderly.
A signed and dated letter from your physi- General travel advice
cian describing your medical conditions and for the lay person.
medications, including their generic names, Information on women’s
is also a good idea. If carrying syringes or health and contraception.
needles, be sure to have a physician’s letter Travel-health
documenting their medical necessity. recommendations for every country; updated daily.

INSURANCE It’s usually a good idea to consult your gov-

If you’re an EU citizen, a European Health ernment’s travel health website before de-
Insurance Card (EHIC), available from parture, if one is available:
health centres or, in the UK, post offices, Australia (
covers you for most medical care. It will not Canada (
cover you for nonemergencies or emergency UK (
repatriation. Citizens from other countries USA (
392 H E A LT H • • I n T r a n s i t H E A LT H • • I n H u n g a r y 393

INFECTIOUS DISEASES thirsty beasties might not carry malaria intestinal upsets and antibiotics do not af-
IN TRANSIT Tickborne encephalitis is spread by kullancs
(ticks), which burrow under the skin; in re-
but can still cause irritation and infection.
Just make sure you’re armed with a DEET-
fect injectable contraception.
Travelling during pregnancy is usually
DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS cent years, it has become a common prob- based insect repellent, or rovarírtó, and possible but always consult your doctor be-
Blood clots may form in the legs (deep lem in parts of Central and Eastern Europe, wear long-sleeved shirts and long trousers fore planning your trip. The riskiest times
vein thrombosis or DVT) during plane especially eastern Austria, Germany, Hun- around sundown for travel are during the first 12 weeks of
flights, chiefly because of prolonged im- gary and the Czech Republic. Encephalitis Bees and wasps cause real problems only pregnancy and after 30 weeks.
mobility. The longer the flight, the greater is a serious infection of the brain, and vac- to those with a severe allergy (anaphylaxis).
the risk. The chief symptom of DVT is cination is advised for campers and hikers, They should carry an ‘epipen’ or similar SEXUAL HEALTH
swelling or pain in the foot, ankle or calf – particularly in Transdanubia and the North- adrenaline injection. The numbers of registered AIDS cases in
usually but not always – on just one side. ern Uplands between May and September. Hungary and those who are HIV-positive
When a blood clot travels to the lungs, it For up-to-date information log on to www Water are relatively low (just over 1100), though
may cause chest pain and breathing dif- The WHO reports that arsenic in Hun- Hungarian epidemiologists estimate the
ficulties. Travellers with any of these Lyme disease is another tick-transmitted gary’s drinking water has been detected at actual number of those infected with HIV
symptoms should seek medical attention infection not unknown in Central and concentrations higher than the guideline to be around 3000 or more. That number
immediately. Eastern Europe. The illness usually begins level of 0.01 mg/L. Avoid drinking tap water could multiply substantially as Budapest
To prevent the development of DVT on with a spreading rash at the site of the tick in favour of the bottle stuff, which is avail- claims its less-than-distinctive title of ‘sex
long-haul flights, you should walk about bite and is accompanied by fever, head- able everywhere. industry capital of Eastern and Central
the cabin, contract the leg muscles while aches, extreme fatigue, aching joints and Europe’. Two AIDS lines to contact in
sitting, drink plenty of fluids and avoid muscles and mild neck stiffness. If un- WOMEN’S HEALTH Budapest are the Anonymous AIDS Association
alcohol. treated, these symptoms usually resolve If using oral contraceptives, remember that (%1-466-9283; h5-8pm Mon, Wed & Thu, 9am-noon
over several weeks, but over subsequent some antibiotics, diarrhoea and vomiting Tue & Fri) and the AIDS helpline (%1-338 2419,
JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS weeks or months disorders of the nervous can stop the pill from working and lead to 266 0465; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1pm Fri), with
To avoid jet lag, which is common when system, heart and joints might develop. the risk of pregnancy. Time zones, gastro- some English spoken.
crossing more than five time zones, you Poliomyelitis is spread through contam-

should drink plenty of nonalchoholic fluids inated food and water. It’s one of the vaccines
and eat light meals. Upon arrival, get exposure given in childhood and should be boosted
to natural sunlight and readjust your sched- every 10 years, either orally or by injection.
ule (for meals, sleep and so on) as soon as Typhoid and hepatitis A are spread through
possible. contaminated food (particularly shellfish)
Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate and water. Typhoid can cause septicaemia;
(Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert, Bon- hepatitis A causes liver inflammation and
ine) are usually the first choice for treat- jaundice. Neither is usually fatal, but re-
ing motion sickness. A herbal alternative covery can be prolonged. Typhoid vaccine
is ginger. (typhim Vi, typherix) will give protection
for three years. In some countries, the oral
vaccine Vivotif is also available. Hepatitis A
IN HUNGARY vaccine (Avaxim, VAQTA, Havrix) is given
as an injection; a single dose will give pro-
AVAILABILITY & tection for up to a year, a booster after a year
COST OF HEALTH CARE gives 10 years’ protection. Hepatitis A and
Medical care in Hungary is generally ad- typhoid vaccines can also be given as a sin-
equate and good for routine problems but gle dose vaccine, hepatyrix or viatim.
not complicated conditions. Treatment at Rabies is spread through bites or licks on
a rendelő intézet (public outpatient clinic) broken skin from an infected animal and is
costs little, but doctors working privately always fatal unless treated. Three injections
will charge much more. Very roughly, a are needed over a month. If you have not
consultation in an orvosi rendelő (doctor’s been vaccinated, you will need a course of
surgery) costs from 5000Ft while a home five injections starting 24 hours or as soon
visit is from 10,000Ft. as possible after the injury.
Most large towns and all of Budapest’s
23 districts have a gyógyszertár or patika ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS
(rotating 24-hour pharmacy). A sign on the Insect Bites & Stings
door of any pharmacy will help you locate Mosquitoes are a real scourge around Hun-
the closest one. gary’s lakes and rivers in summer; the blood-
394 L A N G UA G E • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n 395


Language sz
as in ‘sit’
as the ‘tu’ in ‘tube’ (British)
as the ‘s’ in ‘pleasure’
Be Polite!
As in many other Western languages, verbs
in Hungarian have polite and informal
English, Hungarian isn’t always written the forms in the singular and plural. The polite
way it’s pronounced, but if you stick to the Syllables & Word Stress address (marked as ‘pol’ in this section) is
CONTENTS phonetic guides that accompany each phrase In this language guide, the syllables in the used with strangers, older people, officials
or word you can’t go wrong. pronunciation guides are separated by a dot and service staff. The informal address
Pronunciation 394 The Hungarian alphabet has 44 letters (eg kawn·tsert) so you’ll have no problem (marked as ‘inf’ in this language guide) is
Accommodation 395 and is based on the Latin alphabet. It in- isolating each unit of sound. Accents don’t reserved for friends, children and some-
Conversation & Essentials 395 cludes accented letters and consonant com- influence word stress which always falls on times foreigners, but is used much more
Directions 396 binations. The stroke over a vowel in the the first syllable of the word. We’ve used frequently and sooner than its equivalent
Health 396 pronunciation guides (eg ā) means you say italics to show stress, which should make in, say, French. Almost all young people
Emergencies 397 it as a long vowel sound. things even easier. use it among themselves – even with stran-
Language Difficulties 397 The letters ö and ő, and ü and ű, are listed
as separate pairs of letters in dictionaries gers. In the following phrases, the polite
Numbers 397
(following o, ó and u, ú respectively). The
ACCOMMODATION ‘you’ (Ön and Önök) is given except for
Shopping & Services 397 Where’s a ...?
consonant combinations cs, dz, dzs, gy, ly, ny, situations where you might wish to estab-
Time & Date 398 Hol van egy ...? hawl von ed’ ...
sz, ty and zs also have separate entries. lish a more personal relationship.
Transport 398
camping ground Note that when you want to say ‘Hello’,
Travel with Children 400
kemping kem·ping ‘Hi’, or ‘Bye’, the word will change depend-
Letter Pronunciation Guide guesthouse ing on whether you are speaking to one
a o as in ‘hot’ panzió pon·zi·āw
Hungarian (Magyar) is a member of the á aa as in ‘father’ person or more than one. Look for the sym-
Ugric group of the Uralic family of lan- hotel bols ‘sg’ (singular) or ‘pl’ (plural) to deter-
e e as in ‘bet’ szálloda saal·law·do
guages that is related very, very distantly to é ay as the ‘ai’ in ‘air’’ mine which word to use.
Finnish (with five million speakers), Esto- room in a private home
i i as in ‘hit’
nian (one million) and about a dozen other fizető vendégszoba fi·ze·tēū ven·dayg saw·bo Hello.
í ee as in ‘meet’
minority languages in Russia and western youth hostel Szervusz. (sg) ser·vus
o aw as in ‘law’ but short
Siberia (with far fewer speakers). It’s not an ifjúsági szálló if·yū·shaa·gi saal·lāw Szervusztok. (pl) ser·vus·tawk
ó āw as in ‘awl’
Indo-European language, meaning that ö eu as the ‘u’ in ‘curt’ but short Hi.
English is actually closer to French, Russian ő ēū as the ‘er’ in ‘her’ (British) What’s the address? Szia/Sziasztok. (sg/pl) si·o/si·os·tawk
or Hindi in vocabulary and structure than u u as in ‘pull’ Mi a cím? mi o tseem
it is to Hungarian. As a result you’ll come ú ū as in ‘rule’ May I see it? Good ...
across very few recognisable words – with ü ew like i but with rounded lips Megnézhetem? meg·nayz·he·tem Jó ... kívánok. yāw ... kee·vaa·nawk
the exception of borrowings like disko, szex (like u in French tu) I’ll take it. morning
or hello, which is the slangy way young ű ēw as in strewn’ ü Kiveszem. ki·ve·sem reggelt reg·gelt

Hungarians say ‘goodbye’. afternoon/day
There are also a fair number of misleading Remember, always pronounce y as in ‘yes’, I’d like to book a ... room, please. napot no·pawt
homophones (words with the same sound but without a vowel sound. We’ve used an Szeretnék egy ... szobát foglalni. evening
but different meanings) in Hungarian: test is apostrophe (as in n’, d’, t’) to show this y se·ret·nayk ed’ ... saw·baat fawg·lol·ni estét esh·tayt
not a quiz but ‘body’; fog is ‘tooth’; comb is sound when it falls at the end of a syllable. single
‘thigh’; and part is ‘shore’. Ifjúság, pro- You’ll also see double consonants like bb, dd egyágyas ed’·aa·dyosh Goodbye.
nounced (very roughly) ‘if you shag’, means or tt − draw them out a little longer than double Viszontlátásra. (pol) vi·sawnt·laa·taash·ro
‘youth’; sajt (pronounced ‘shite’), as in every you would in English. francia ágyas/ fran·tsi·o aa·dyosh/ Szia. (inf sg) si·o
visiting Briton’s favourite sajtburger, means duplaágyas dup·lo·aa·dyosh Sziasztok. (inf pl) si·os·tawk
‘cheese’. Letter Pronunciation Guide twin Good night.
For more Hungarian words and phrases c ts as in ‘rats’ kétágyas kayt·aa·dyosh Jó éjszakát. yāw ay·y·so·kaat
than there is space for here, get a copy of cs ch as in ‘cheese’ Yes.
Lonely Planet’s Hungarian Phrasebook. dz dz as in ‘adze’ How much is it per ...? Igen. i·gen
dzs j as in ‘joke’ Mennyibe kerül egy ...? men’·nyi·be ke·rewl ed’ ... No.
PRONUNCIATION gy dy/d’ as the ‘du’ in ‘dune’ (British) night Nem. nem
Hungarian may seem daunting with its j/ly y as in ‘yes’ éjszakára ay·so·kaa·ro Please.
long words and strange-looking accents, ny n’ as the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ person Kérem. (pol) kay·rem
but it’s surprisingly easy to pronounce. Like r r as in ‘run’ (but rolled) főre fēū·re Kérlek. (inf) kayr·lek
396 L A N G UA G E • • D i re c t i o n s L A N G UA G E • • E m e r g e n c i e s 397

Thank you (very much). 2 kettő/két ket·tēū/kayt

(Nagyon) Köszönöm. (no·dyawn) keu·seu·neum SIGNS EMERGENCIES 3 három haa·rawm
You’re welcome. Bejárat Entrance Help! 4 négy nayd’
Szívesen. see·ve·shen Kijárat Exit Segítség! she·geet·shayg 5 öt eut
Excuse me. (to get attention) Nyitva Open Could you please help? 6 hat hot
Elnézést kérek. el·nay·zaysht kay·rek Zárva Closed Tudna segíteni? tud·no she·gee·te·ni 7 hét hayt
Excuse me. (to get past) Foglalt Reserved/Occupied Can I use your phone? 8 nyolc nyawlts
Bocsánat. baw·chaa·not Felvilágosítás/Információ Information Használhatom a hos·naal·ho·tawm o 9 kilenc ki·lents
Sorry. Belépni Tilos No Entry telefonját? te·le·fawn·yaat 10 tíz teez
Sajnálom. shoy·naa·lawm Tilos Prohibited Call the police! 11 tizenegy ti·zen·ed’
How are you? Tilos a Dohányzás No Smoking Hívja a rendőrséget! heev·yo o rend·ēūr·shay·get 12 tizenkettő ti·zen·ket·tēū
Hogy van? (pol) hawd’ von Toalett/WC Toilets I’m sick. 13 tizenhárom ti·zen·haa·rawm
Hogy vagy? (inf) hawd’ vod’ Férfiak Men Rosszul vagyok. raws·sul vo·dyawk 14 tizennégy ti·zen·nayd’
Fine. And you? Nők Women Call a doctor! 15 tizenöt ti·zen·eut
Jól. És Ön/te? (pol/inf) yāwl aysh eun/te Hívjon orvost! heev·yawn awr·vawsht 16 tizenhat ti·zen·hot
What’s your name? Where’s the police station? 17 tizenhét ti·zen·hayt
Turn ... Hol a rendőrség? hawl o rend·ēūr·shayg
Mi a neve? (pol) mi o ne·ve 18 tizennyolc ti·zen’·yawlts
Forduljon ... fawr·dul·yawn ... Where are the toilets?
Mi a neved? (inf) mi o ne·ved 19 tizenkilenc ti·zen·ki·lents
at the corner Hol a véce? hawl o vay·tse
My name is ... a saroknál o sho·rawk·naal 20 húsz hūs
A nevem ... o ne·vem ... I’m lost.
at the traffic lights Eltévedtem. el·tay·ved·tem 21 huszonegy hu·sawn·ed’
I’m pleased to meet you. a közlekedési o keuz·le·ke·day·shi 22 huszonkettő hu·sawn·ket·tēū
Örvendek. eur·ven·dek Go away!
lámpánál laam·paa·naal Menjen el! men·yen el 30 harminc hor·mints
Where are you from? left/right 31 harmincegy hor·mints·ed’
Ön honnan jön? (pol) eun hawn·non yeun balra/jobbra bol·ro/yawbb·ro 32 harminckettő hor·mints·ket·tēū
Te honnan jössz? (inf) te hawn·non yeuss I’m allergic to ...
40 negyven ned’·ven
I’m from ... north észak ay·sok Allergiás vagyok ... ol·ler·gi·aash vo·dyawk ...
41 negyvenegy ned’·ven·ed’
Én ... jövök. ayn ... yeu·veuk south dél dayl antibiotics
42 negyvenkettő ned’·ven·ket·tēū
east kelet ke·let az antibiotikumokra oz on·ti·bi·aw·ti·ku·mawk·ro
50 ötven eut·ven
Local Lingo west nyugat nyu·got penicillin
60 hatvan hot·von
Great! a penicillinre o pe·ni·tsil·lin·re
Nagyszerű! nod’·se·rēw
70 hetven het·ven
HEALTH 80 nyolcvan nyawlts·von
Maybe. Where’s the nearest ...? antiseptic
Talán. to·laan fertőzésgátló fer·tēū·zaysh·gaat·lāw 90 kilencven ki·lents·ven
Hol a legközelebbi ...? hawl o leg·keu·ze·leb·bi ... 100 száz saaz
Just a minute. dentist contraceptives
Egy pillanat. ed’ pil·lo·not fogamzásgátló faw·gom·zaash·gaat·lāw 200 kétszáz kayt·saaz
fogorvos fawg·awr·vawsh 1000 ezer e·zer
No problem. doctor painkillers

Nem probléma. nem prawb·lay·mo orvos awr·vawsh fájdalomcsillapító faa·y·do·lawm·chil·lo·pee·tāw
Clear. (as in ‘understood’) How much? Mennyi? men’·yi
Világos. vi·laa·gawsh LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES How many? Hány? haan’
kórház kāwr·haaz
medical centre Do you speak (English)?
DIRECTIONS orvosi rendelő awr·vaw·shi ren·de·lēū Beszél (angolul)? (pol) be·sayl (on·gaw·lul) SHOPPING & SERVICES
Where’s (the market)? (night) pharmacist Beszélsz (angolul)? (inf) be·sayls (on·gaw·lul) Where is ...?
Hol van (a piac)? hawl von (o pi·ots) (éjszaka nyitvatartó) (ay·so·ko nyit·vo·tor·tāw) Does anyone speak (English)? Hol van ...? hawl von ...
What’s the address? gyógyszertár dyāwd’·ser·taar Beszél valaki (angolul)? be·sayl vo·lo·ki (on·gaw·lul) an ATM
Mi a cím? mi o tseem I (don’t) understand. egy bankautomata ed’ bonk·o·u·taw·mo·to
How do I get there? I have a headache. (Nem) Értem. (nem) ayr·tem a foreign exchange office
Hogyan jutok oda? haw·dyon yu·tawk aw·do Fáj a fejem. faa·y o fe·yem What does ... mean? egy valutaváltó ed’ vo·lu·to·vaal·tāw
How far is it? I have a sore throat. Mit jelent az, hogy ...? mit ye·lent oz hawd’ ... ügynökség ewd’·neuk·shayg
Milyen messze van? mi·yen mes·se von Fáj a torkom. faa·y o tawr·kawm Could you please write it down? the market
Can you show me (on the map)? I have (a) ... ... van. ... von Leírná, kérem. le·eer·naa kay·rem a piac o pi·ots
Meg tudja mutatni meg tud·yo mu·tot·ni asthma Asztmám ost·maam a shopping centre
nekem (a térképen)? ne·kem (o tayr·kay·pen) diarrhoea Hasmenésem hosh·me·nay·shem NUMBERS egy bevásárlóközpont ed’ be·vaa·shaar·lāw·keuz·pawnt
It’s straight ahead. fever Lázam laa·zom 0 nulla nul·lo a supermarket
egyenesen előttünk van. e·dye·ne·shen e·lēūt·tewnk von nausea Hányingerem haan’·in·ge·rem 1 egy ed’ egy élelmiszeráruház ed’ ay·lel·mi·ser·aa·ru·haaz
398 L A N G UA G E • • Ti m e & D a t e L A N G UA G E • • T r a n s p o r t 399

I’d like to ... Quarter past (ten). long-distance bus station

Szeretnék ... se·ret·nayk ... Negyed (tizenegy). ne·dyed (ti·zen·ed’) távolsági autóbusz- taa·vawl·shaa·gi o·u·tāw·bus ROAD SIGNS
change a travellers cheque Half past (ten). államás aal·law·maash· Autópálya Kijárat Exit Freeway
beváltani egy utazási be·vaal·to·ni ed’ u·to·zaa·shi Fél (tizenegy). fayl (ti·zen·ed’) Behajtani Tilos No Entry
csekket chek·ket Which ... goes (to Budapest/the Parliament)? Bejárat Entrance
change money now most mawsht Melyik ... megy (Budapestre/a Parlamenthez)? Egyirányú One Way
pénzt váltani paynzt vaal·to·ni today ma mo me·yik ... med’ (bu·do·pesht·re/o por·lo·ment·hez) Elsőbbségadás Kötelező Give Way
tonight ma este mo esh·te bus Megállni Tilos No Standing
Do you accept ...? yesterday tegnap teg·nop busz bus Terelőút Detour
Elfogadnak ...? el·faw·god·nok ... tomorrow holnap hawl·nop train Útépítés Road Work Ahead
credit cards afternoon délután dayl·u·taan vonat vaw·not Várakozni Tilos No Parking
hitelkártyát hi·tel·kaar·tyaat evening este esh·te tram
travellers cheques morning reggel reg·gel villamos vil·lo·mawsh
night éjszaka ay·so·ko trolleybus Is this the road to (Sopron)?
utazási csekket u·to·zaa·shi chek·ket Ez az út vezet ez oz ūt ve·zet
trolibusz traw·li·bus
Monday hétfő hayt·fēū metro line (Sopronba)? (shawp·rawn·bo)
Where can I buy ...? Where’s a petrol station?
Hol tudok venni ...? hawl tu·dawk ven·ni ... Tuesday kedd kedd metró met·rāw
Wednesday szerda ser·do Hol van egy benzinkút? hawl von ed’ ben·zin·kūt
I’d like to buy ... Please fill it up.
Szeretnék venni ... se·ret·nayk ven·ni ... Thursday csütörtök chew·teur·teuk When’s the ...?
Friday péntek payn·tek Mikor megy ...? mi·kawr med’ ... Kérem, töltse tele. kay·rem teult·she te·le
I’m just looking. I’d like ... litres.
Csak nézegetek. chok nay·ze·ge·tek Saturday szombat sawm·bot first
Sunday vasárnap vo·shaar·nop az első oz el·shēū ... litert kérek. ... li·tert kay·rek
How much is this?
Mennyibe kerül ez? men’·yi·be ke·rewl ez last
January január yo·nu·aar az utolsó oz u·tawl·shāw petrol/gas
Could you write down the price?
Le tudná írni az árát? le tud·naa eer·ni oz aa·raat
February február feb·ru·aar next benzin ben·zin
March március maar·tsi·ush a következő o keu·vet·ke·zēū diesel
What time does it open/close?
April április aap·ri·lish dízel/gázolaj dee·zel/gaa·zo·lay
Mikor nyit/zár? mi·kawr nyit/zaar
May május maa·yush A ... ticket to (Eger). leaded
June június yū·ni·ush Egy ... jegy (Eger)be. ed’ ... yej (e·ger)·be ólmozott āwl·maw·zawtt
Where’s the nearest public phone? July július yū·li·ush one-way
Hol a legközelebbi nyilvános telefon? LPG
August augusztus o·u·gus·tush csak oda chok aw·do folyékony autógáz faw·yay·kawn’ o·u·tāw·gaaz
hawl o leg·keu·ze·leb·bi nyil·vaa·nawsh te·le·fawn September szeptember sep·tem·ber return
I want to buy a phonecard. regular
October október awk·tāw·ber oda-vissza aw·do·vis·so normál nawr·maal
Szeretnék telefonkártyát venni. November november naw·vem·ber
se·ret·nayk te·le·fawn·kaar·tyaat ven·ni premium unleaded
December december de·tsem·ber Is this taxi available? ólommentes szuper āw·lawm·men·tesh su·per
Where’s the local Internet café? Szabad ez a taxi? so·bod ez o tok·si unleaded

Hol van a legközelebbi internet kávézó? TRANSPORT Please put the meter on.
hawl von o leg·keu·ze·leb·bi in·ter·net kaa·vay·zāw ólommentes āw·lawm·men·tesh
Public Transport Kérem, kapcsolja be kay·rem kop·chawl·yo be
Where’s the ticket office? az órát. oz āw·raat
I’d like to ... (How long) Can I park here?
Hol a jegypénztár? hawl o yed’·paynz·taar How much is it to ...?
Szeretném ... se·ret·naym ... (Meddig) Parkolhatok itt?
What time does it leave? Mennyibe kerül ... ba? men’·yi·be ke·rewl ... bo
check my email (med·dig) por·kawl·ho·tawk itt
Mikor indul? mi·kawr in·dul Please take me to (this address).
megnézni az meg·nayz·ni oz What time does it get to (Eger)? Kérem, vigyen el kay·rem vi·dyen el I need a mechanic.
e-mailjeimet ee·mayl·ye·i·met Mikor ér (Egerbe)? mi·kawr ayr (e·ger·be) (erre a címre). (er·re o tseem·re) Szükségem van egy autószerelőre.
get Internet access How long does the trip take? How much is it? sewk·shay·gem von ed’ o·u·tāw·se·re·lēū·re
rámenni az internetre raa·men·ni oz in·ter·net·re Mennyi ideig tart az út? men’·yi i·de·ig tort oz ūt Mennyit fizetek? men’·nyit fi·ze·tek The car/motorbike has broken down (at Sopron).
How long will it be delayed? Az autó/A motor elromlott (Sopronnál).
TIME & DATE Mennyit késik? men’·yit kay·shik Private Transport oz o·u·tāw/o maw·tawr el·rawm·lawtt (shawp·rawn·naal)
What time is it? Please stop here. I’d like to hire a/an ... The car/motorbike won’t start.
Hány óra? haan’ āw·ra Kérem, álljon meg itt. kay·rem aall·yawn meg itt Szeretnék egy ... bérelni. se·ret·nayk ed’ ... bay·rel·ni Az autó/A motor nem indul.
It’s (one/ten) o’clock. How much is it? car oz o·u·tāw/o maw·tawr nem in·dul
(Egy/Tíz) óra van. (ed’/teez) āw·ra von Mennyibe kerül? men’·yi·be ke·rewl autót o·u·tāwt I have a flat tyre.
Five past (ten). local bus station motorbike Defektem van.
Öt perccel múlt (tíz). eut perts·tsel mūlt (teez) helyi buszállamás he·yi bus·aal·law·maash motort maw·tawrt de·fek·tem von
400 L A N G UA G E • • T r a v e l w i t h C h i l d re n

TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN disposable nappies/diapers

Is there a ...? eldobható pelenkára
Van ...? el·dawb·ho·tāw pe·len·kaa·ro
von ... highchair
I need a/an ... etetőszékre
Szükségem van egy ... e·te·tēū·sayk·re
sewk·shay·gem von ed’ ... potty
baby change room bilire
babapelenkázó szobára bi·li·re
bo·bo·pe·len·kaa·zāw saw·baa·ro stroller
baby seat ülő gyerekkocsira
babaülésre ew·lēū dye·rek·kaw·chi·ro
(English-speaking) babysitter Are children allowed?
(angolul beszélő) bébiszitterre Beengedik a gyerekeket?
(on·gaw·lul be·say·lēū) bay·bi·sit·ter·re be·en·ge·dik o dye·re·ke·ket
booster seat Do you mind if I breastfeed here?
gyerekülésre Megengedi, hogy itt szoptassak?
dye·rek·ew·laysh·re meg·en·ge·di hawd’ itt sawp·tosh·shok

Also available from Lonely Planet:

Hungarian Phrasebook

Can’t find the word you’re looking for É – map/compass abbreviation for észak (north)
here? Try the Language chapter (p394) or Eclectic – an art and architectural style popular in Hun-
the glossary in the Food & Drink chapter gary in the Romantic period, drawing from sources both
(p60). indigenous and foreign
élelmiszer – grocery shop or convenience store
ÁEV – Állami Erdei Vasutak (State Forest Railways) előszoba – vestibule or anteroom; one of three rooms in
ÁFA – value-added tax (VAT) a traditional Hungarian cottage
Alföld – same as Nagyalföld and pustza em – abbreviation for emelet (floor or storey)
aluljáró – underpass emelet – floor or storey
Ausgleich – German for ‘reconciliation’; the Compromise erdő – forest
of 1867 érkezés – arrivals
autóbusz – bus észak – north
áutóbuszállomás – bus station eszpresszó – coffee shop, often also selling alcoholic
Avars – a people of the Caucasus who invaded Europe in drinks and snacks; strong, black coffee; same as presszó
the 6th century étkezde – canteen that serves simple dishes
ÁVO – Rákosi’s hated secret police in the early years of étterem – restaurant
communism; later renamed ÁVH
falu – village
bal – left fasor – boulevard, avenue
bejárat – entrance felvilágosítás – information
bélyeg – stamp fogas – pike-perch like fish indigenous to Lake Balaton
benzin – petrol földszint – ground floor
BKV – Budapest Közlekedési Vállalat (Budapest Transport folyó – river
Company) forint – Hungary’s monetary unit
bokor tanyák – bush farms főkapitányság – main police station
bolhapiac – flea market főváros – main city or capital
borozó – wine bar; any place serving wine főzelék – a traditional way of preparing vegetables, where
Bp – commonly used abbreviation for Budapest they’re fried or boiled and then mixed into a roux with milk
búcsú – farewell; also, a church patronal festival fsz – abbreviation for földszint (ground floor)
büfé – snack bar Ft – forint; see also HUF

centrum – town or city centre gázolaj – diesel fuel

čevapčiči – spicy Balkan meatballs gulyás or gulyásleves – a thick beef soup cooked with
Compromise of 1867 – agreement that created the onions and potatoes and usually eaten as a main course
dual monarchy of Austria-Hungary gyógyfürdő – bath or spa
Copf – a transitional architectural style between late gyógyszertár – pharmacy
baroque and neoclassicism (Zopf in German) gyógyvíz – medicinal drinking water
csárda – a Hungarian-style inn or restaurant gyorsvonat – fast trains
csatorna – canal gyűjtemény – collection
csikós – ‘cowboy’ from the puszta gyula – chief military commander of the early Magyar
csomagmegőrző – left-luggage office
cukrászda – cake shop or patisserie hajdúk – Hungarian for Heyducks
hajó – boat
D – map/compass abbreviation for dél (south) hajóallomás – ferry pier or landing

Dacia – Latin name for Romania and lands east of the ház – house
Tisza River hegy – hill, mountain
db or drb – piece (measurement used in markets) hegyalja – hill country
de – in the morning, ‘am’ helyi autóbusz pályaudvar – local bus station
dél – south HÉV – Helyiérdekű Vasút (suburban commuter train in
du – in the afternoon/evening, ‘pm’ Budapest)
402 GLOSSARY G L O S S A R Y 403

Heyducks – drovers and outlaws from the puszta who lángos – deep-fried dough with toppings pörkölt – stew távolsági autóbusz pályaudvar – long-distance bus
fought as mercenaries against the Habsburgs lekvár – fruit jam porta – type of farmhouse in Transdanubia station
híd – bridge lépcső – stairs, steps presszó – same as eszpresszó (coffee shop; strong, black templom – church
HNTO – Hungarian National Tourism Office liget – park coffee) tér – town or market square
hőforrás – thermal spring pu – abbreviation for pályaudvar (train station) tere – genitive form of tér as in Hősök tere (Square of
honfoglalás – conquest of the Carpathian Basin by the Magyarország autóatlasza – road atlas of Hungary puli – Hungarian breed of sheepdog with shaggy coat the Heroes)
Magyars in the late 9th century Mahart – Hungarian passenger ferry company puszta – literally ‘deserted’; other name for the Great tilos – prohibited, forbidden
HUF – international currency code for the Hungarian Malév – Hungary’s national airline Plain (see Alföld and Nagyalföld) tiszta szoba – parlour; one of three rooms in a trad-
forint MÁV – Magyar Államvasutak (Hungarian State Railways) puttony – the number of ‘butts’ of sweet aszú essence itional Hungarian cottage
Huns – a Mongol tribe that swept across Europe under megye – county added to other base wines in making Tokaj wine tó – lake
Attila in the 5th century AD menetrend – timetable toalett – toilet
mihrab – Muslim prayer niche facing Mecca racka – sheep on the Great Plain with distinctive Trianon Treaty – 1920 treaty imposed on Hungary by
Ibusz – Hungarian national network of travel agencies MNB – Magyar Nemzeti Bank (National Bank of Hungary) corkscrew horns the victorious Allies, which reduced the country to one-
ifjúsági szálló – youth hostel Moorish Romantic – an art style popular in the decor- rakpart – quay, embankment third of its former size
illeték – duty or tax ation of 19th-century Hungarian synagogues rendőrkapitányság – police station Triple Alliance – 1882–1914 alliance between Germany,
indulás – departures mozi – cinema repülőtér – airport Austria-Hungary and Italy – not to be confused with
műemlék – memorial, monument Romany – the language and culture of the Roma (Gypsy) the WWI Allies (members of the Triple Entente and their
jobb – right (as opposed to left) munkavállalási engedély – work permit people supporters)
Triple Entente – agreement among Britain, France and
K – abbreviation for kelet (east) Nagyalföld – the Great Plain (same as the Alföld and sebesvonat – swift trains Russia, intended as a counterbalance to the Triple Alliance,
kamra – workshop or shed; one of three rooms in a puszta) Secessionism – art and architectural style similar to lasting until the Russian Revolution of 1917
traditional Hungarian cottage Nagykörút – ‘Big Ring road’ in Budapest Art Nouveau turul – eagle-like totem of the ancient Magyars and now
kastély – manor house or mansion (see vár) népművészeti bolt – folk-art shop sedile (pl sedilia) – medieval stone niche with seats a national symbol
kb – abbreviation for körülbelül (approximately) Nonius – Hungarian breed of horse sétány – walkway, promenade
kékfestő – cotton fabric dyed a rich indigo blue nosztalgiavonat – vintage steam train shahoof – distinctive sweep-pole well found only on u – abbreviation for utca (street)
kelet – east Ny – abbreviation for nyugat (west) the Great Plain (Hungarian: gémeskút) udvar – court
kemping – camping ground nyitva – open skanzen – open-air museum displaying village archi- ünnep – public holiday
képtár – picture gallery nyugat – west tecture úszoda – swimming pool
kerület – city district söröző – beer bar or pub út – road
khas – towns of the Ottoman period under direct rule of ó – abbreviation for óra spahi – name given to a member of the Turkish irregular utca – street
the sultan önkiszolgáló – self-service cavalry. The officers of the spahis were granted fiefs by utcája – genitive form of utca as in Ferencesek utcája
kijárat – exit óra – hour, ‘o’clock’ the Sultan, and were entitled to all income from the fief in (Street of the Franciscans)
kincstár – treasury orvosi rendelő – doctor’s surgery return for military service to the Sultan. útja – genitive form of út as in Mártíroká útja (Street of
kirándulás – outing osztály – department stb – abbreviation of ‘s a többi’ (and so on) equivalent to the Martyrs)
Kiskörút – ‘Little Ring road’ in Budapest OTP – Országos Takarékpenztár (National Savings Bank) English ‘etc’ üzlet – shop
kocsma – pub or saloon Ottoman Empire – the Turkish empire that took over strand – grassy ‘beach’ near a river or lake
kolostor – monastery or cloister from the Byzantine Empire when it captured Constan- sugárút – avenue vá – abbreviation for vasútmegállo (train station)
komp – ferry tinople (Istanbul) in 1453, and expanded into southeastern szálló or szálloda – hotel vágány – platform
könyvesbolt – bookshop Europe székesegyház – cathedral vár – castle
könyvtár – library személyvonat – passenger trains that stop at every city, város – city
konzumlányok – ‘consume girls’: attractive young pálinka – fruit brandy town, village and hamlet along the way városház or városháza – town hall
women who work in collusion with bars and clubs to rip off palota – palace sziget – island vasútállomás – train or railway station
unsuspecting male tourists pályaudvar – train or railway station színház – theatre vendéglő – a type of restaurant
kórház – hospital Pannonia – Roman name for the lands south and west of szoba kiadó – room for rent vm – abbreviation for vasútállomás (train station)
körülbelül – approximately (abbreviation kb) the Danube River szűr – long embroidered felt cloak or cape traditionally Volán – Hungarian bus company
körút – ring road panzió – pension, guesthouse worn by Hungarian shepherds vonat – train
korzó – embankment or promenade part – embankment
köz – alley, mews, lane patika – pharmacy Tanácsköztársaság – the 1919 Communist ‘Republic of WC – toilet (see toalett)
központ – centre patyolat – laundry Councils’ under Béla Kun

krt – abbreviation for körút (ring road) pénztár – cashier táncház – folk music and dance workshop zárva – closed
kúria – mansion or manor pénzváltó – exchange office tanya – homestead or ranch; station Zimmer frei – German for ‘room for rent’
kuruc – Hungarian mercenaries, partisans or insurrec- piac – market tartózkodási engedély – residence permit Zopf – German and more commonly used word for Copf
tionists who resisted the expansion of Habsburg rule in pince – wine cellar
Hungary after the withdrawal of the Turks (late 17th/early plébánia – rectory, parish house
18th centuries) polgármester – mayor
© Lonely Planet Publications

404 405

Alternative Place Names

On a lot of bus and train timetables, Košice (Slk) – Kassa (H), Kaschau (G)
Hungarian-language names are used for Kőszeg (H) – Güns (G)
cities and towns in neighbouring countries.
Many of these are in what once was Hun- Lendava (Slo) – Lendva (H)
garian territory, and the names are used Lučenec (Slk) – Losonc (H)
by the Hungarian-speaking minorities who
live there. You should at least be familiar Mattersburg (G) – Nagymárton (H)
with the more important ones (eg Pozsony Mukačevo (U) – Munkács (H)
for Bratislava, Kolozsvár for Cluj-Napoca, Murska Sobota (Slo) – Muraszombat (H)
Bécs for Vienna).
Northern Uplands (E) – Északi Felföld (H)

ABBREVIATIONS Oradea (R) – Nagyvárad (H), Grosswardein (G)

(C) Croatian, (E) English, (G) German, Osijek (C) – Eszék (H)
(H) Hungarian, (R) Romanian, (S) Serbian,
(Slk) Slovak, (Slo) Slovene, (U) Ukrainian Pécs (H) – Fünfkirchen (G)

Alba Iulia (R) – Gyula Fehérvár (H), Karlsburg/ Rožnava (Slk) – Rozsnyó (H)
Weissenburg (G)
Satu Mare (R) – Szatmárnémeti (H) © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
Baia Mare (R) – Nagybánya (H) Senta (S) – Zenta (H) restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Balaton (H) – Plattensee (G) Sibiu (R) – Nagyszében (H), Hermannstadt (G) only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
Banská Bystrica (Slk) – Besztercebánya (H) Sic (R) – Szék (H)
Belgrade (E) – Beograd (S), Nándorfehérvár (H) Sighişoara (R) – Szegesvár (H), Schässburg (G) everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
Beregovo (U) – Beregszász (H) Sopron (H) – Ödenburg (G) the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
Braşov (R) – Brassó (H), Kronstadt (G) Štúrovo (Slk) – Párkány (H)
Bratislava (Slk) – Pozsony (H), Pressburg (G) Subotica (S) – Szabadka (H)
Szeged (H) – Segedin (G)
Carei (R) – Nagykároly (H) Székesfehérvár (H) – Stuhlweissenburg (G)
Cluj-Napoca (R) – Kolozsvár (H), Klausenburg (G) Szombathely (H) – Steinamanger (G)

Danube (E) – Duna (H), Donau (G) Tata (H) – Totis (G)
Danube Bend (E) – Dunakanyar (H), Donauknie (G) Timişoara (R) – Temesvár (H)
Debrecen (H) – Debrezin (G) Tirgu Mureş (R) – Marosvásárhely (H)
Transdanubia (E) – Dunántúl (H)
Eger (H) – Erlau (G) Transylvania (R) – Erdély (H), Siebenbürgen (G)
Eisenstadt (G) – Kismárton (H) Trnava (Slk) – Nagyszombat (H)
Esztergom (H) – Gran (G)
Uzhhorod (U) – Ungvár (H)
Great Plain (E) – Nagyalföld, Alföld, Puszta (H)
Győr (H) – Raab (G) Vác (H) – Wartzen (G)
Vienna (E) – Wien (G), Bécs (H)
Hungary (E) – Magyarország (H), Ungarn (G) Villány (H) – Wieland (G)
Villánykövesd (H) – Growisch (G)
Kisalföld (H) – Little Plain (E)
Komárom (H) – Komárno (Slk) Wiener Neustadt (G) – Bécsújhely (H)