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I take this opportunity to express my


deep gratitude and deep regards to our
mentor Mr. PARI J. for his exemplary
guidance and constant support.
I also take this opportunity to thank the
APPAREL PRODUCTION DEPARTMENTAL
staff members for providing the
valuable information and resources for
the project.
Hip hop fashion, also known as urban fashion, is a distinctive style of dress
originating with African American youth on the scene of New York City, Los
Angeles, Houston, Chicago, Philadelphia, the San Francisco Bay Area,
Detroit, Memphis, Virginia, Atlanta, and St. Louis among others. Each city
contributed various elements to its overall style seen worldwide today.

Creation of the term “Hip Hop” is often credited to Keith


Cowboy, rapper with Grandmaster Flash and the Furious Five.

Hip-hop is both the voice of alienated, frustrated youth and a multibillion-


dollar cultural industry packaged and marketed on a global scale. Hip-hop
is also a multifaceted subculture that transcends many of the popular
characterizations used to describe other music-led youth cultures. One of
the important considerations about hip-hop is that since its conception in
the early 1970s, hip-hop has arguably become more potent and efficient in
galvanizing black social identity than the civil rights movement of the
1960s.

The evolution of hip-hop has developed from a self-conscious rumination of


words and music to an obstinate expression of contemporary urban life
through corporal gestures and apparel. From the beginning, hip-hop
fashion has been on a trajectory of relentless flowering.
Origin and Development
There are fashion eras, which often make returns, but always evolve into a
more modern existence. Hip-hop music plays an instrumental role in
fashion and its ever-evolving presence, which is why hip-hop has grown
into more of a culture, encompassing music, fashion, mannerisms, and
more.

Early 90s, The Fresh Prince Era


Although the Fresh Prince wasn’t the only hip-hop icon
during this time, he played a major role in its animation. Will
Smith as the Fresh Prince of Bel-Air truly put hip-hop on a
pedestal. Hip-hop culture was being exposed to millions. The
style was flashy, the music was bubbly, and it was addictive
as hell.

The Mid-90s, Velour and FUBU


Among others, the Wu-Tang Clan was consistently rockin’ velour
suits. Anyone who was into hip-hop was wearing these velour
tracksuits. FUBU was making its way into the fashion scene during
this time as well pullover plastic-like jerseys with a number “05”
on them became very popular.

The Late 90s — Early 2000s, Saggy Baggy Pants


Your level of sag said a lot about you. Pants were at least a size
too big and baggy enough to fit over any pair of Timberland boots
or Air Force Ones. Nelly and the infamous St. Lunatics were great
spokespeople for the style.

Circa 2005, Proper Swag


Kanye West was just coming through the wire and he
was truly a misfit – rockin’ polo’s and fitted jeans.
Obviously his choice of style wasn’t “normal”
especially for Roc-A-Fella records, but Yeezy was strict
to his proper swag. Although his style wasn’t quickly
followed, he was making a big statement – you didn’t
have to dress like a thug to rap.
Present Day, A Healthy Mix of Decades
We’ve got a mix of skinny jeans, saggy pants, polo shirts,
button downs, hood-wear, snapbacks, fitted caps, penny
loafers, and air forces, embracing a fashion style that
comprises of the past two decades. Some keep up with
the fads, others have continued to mature their original
style, and finally those who have barely changed their
swag since day one.

Influence on other Styles


"B-boy" and "Flyboy" were designations used to differentiate those
focused on music and dance, and those
who were focused on fashion. B-boys and
B-girls were the former, and Flyboys and
Flygirls the latter. B-boys have derived
their designation from break-dancing. Break dancers dressed
in sportswear like Puma sneakers, Adidas track pants, T-
shirts, and padded nylon or leather jackets. They specialized
in making poetic, gravity-defying acrobatic and explosive body-popping
movements to the accompaniment of the interrupted, repeated, and over-
laid phrasing of break-beat recordings.

The subtrends that followed break-dancing became the forerunners to


rap-influenced fashion. For example, there are direct correlations to the
fashion associated with hardcore rap, gangsta rap, and
Afrocentric/cultural rap.
Some Designers and Producers
1. Givenchy

Founded in: 1952 by Hubert de Givenchy

Current designer: Riccardo Tisci

Complex says: 2012 is, without a doubt, the year of


Givenchy. While it's easy to make fun of what animal
the label will put on their clothing next, there's no
denying the popularity of the graphics. And it seems
that no matter what Tisci puts out, rappers are ready to eat it up.

2. Maison Martin Margiela

Founded: In 1988 by Martin Margiela

Current Designer: Martin Margiela's successor was never


announced once he retired from his eponymous label

Complex says: Margiela has taken the rap world by storm,


especially with help from big names like Kanye West, T.I. and
Swizz Beatz, amongst others.

3. Balmain

Founded in: 1945 by Pierre Balmain

Current designer: Olivier Rousteing

Complex says: The French fashion house has been killing


it for years — even Lil Wayne rocked the brand. To this day, rappers still can't
get enough of the ultra-expensive biker jeans and dope outerwear

4. Rick Owens

Founded in: 1994 by Rick Owens

Current designer: Rick Owens

Complex says: In the last year or so, Rick Owens


has become a brand to watch in the hip-hop
community. Artists like Kanye West, A$AP Rocky,
Drake, and even P. Diddy are either spotted rocking the avant-garde label
or name-dropping it in their hottest tracks. Rappers love the dope leathers
just as much as they do the sneakers.
5. Christian Louboutin

Founded in: 1992 by Christian Louboutin

Current designer: Christian Louboutin

Complex says: Before other notable brands like Maison Martin


Margiela and Balenciaga caught the attention of rappers, the red
bottoms were the shoes to rock. And to no surprise, they're still
one of the most popular. The sneakers, spiked hybrids, and
slippers have all built a strong following.

6. Alexander Wang

Founded in: 2007 by Alexander Wang

Current designer: Alexander Wang

Complex says: The young Harlem rapper is one of the biggest


fans of the American brand, rocking it on a regular basis and
even swagging out in all-Wang in his "Goldie" video. Wang first
ventured into menswear with his T by Alexander Wang line in
2009 — but it's made a lot of noise as of late.
7. Balenciaga

Founded in: 1918 by Cristóbal Balenciaga

Current designer: Nicolas Ghesquière

Complex says: There's something about the brand's


futuristic designs that have artists, such as Pusha T and
Big Sean, stocking up on pieces. Whether it's the ever-
popular Arena sneakers or graphic T-shirts, Balenciaga's got the game on lock.

8. Chanel

Founded in: 1908 by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel

Current designer: Karl Lagerfeld

Complex says: Rap's latest obsession is vintage


jewelry. While labels like Versace and Cartier also
have dope vintage jewelry, hip-hop's love for Chanel just can't be matched.
9. Lanvin

Founded in: 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin

Current designer: Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver


(men's designer)

Complex says: The Parisian powerhouse has built a


strong fan base that includes some of the biggest names
in hip-hop. Even super producer and all around stylish
dude, Pharrell, wanted to collaborate with designer Alber
Elbaz. When he was backstage at the Lanvin menswear show back in 2010,
he told Elbaz that he wanted to design luggage for the label or star in one of
its campaigns.

10. Tom Ford

Founded in: 2005 by Tom Ford

Current designer: Tom Ford

Complex says The American designer has built a good


rapport with celebrities and continues to make stand-out
suits. Swizz Beatz has also become known for rocking the
formal wear, as well as the brand's velvet loafers.
Commentators from both inside and outside the hip-hop community
have criticized the cost of many of the accoutrements of hip hop
fashion. Hip-hop has sometimes come under fire for glorify brands that
shut it out and embracing a fashion culture which does not embrace
hip-hop or black culture. Designer brands such as Louis Vuitton or
Versace will show avaricious desire to align themselves with influential
musicians because of the potential gains, but will simultaneously
maintain distance from these allies outside of advertising, "almost as
with a keen desire to hold the controlling hand in these relationships"
and control their public image. In these partnerships/collaborations
between designers and artists there is sometimes a pattern of
exploitation in which the designers benefit disproportionately more than
hip-hop artists.
www.fashionhistory.lovetoknow.com

www.csupomona.edu

www.fashionvistas.com

www.complex.com

www.wikipedia.com

www.fashionmagazines.com

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