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Development and evaluation of antidandruff

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 J Pharm Phytother 2013, 1:4 (ISSN 2321-5895)

Journal of Pharmacy and Phytotheraputics

RESEARCH ARTICLE

Development and evaluation of antidandruff

shampoo based on natural sources.
Sarath Chandran*, Vipin K V, Ann Rose Augusthy, Lindumol K V, Arun Shirwaikar 1
Department of Pharmaceutics, Academy of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Pariyaram Medical College, Pariyaram, India
1
College of Pharmacy, Gulf Medical University, Ajman, UAE.

ABSTRACT
Shampoo is a hair care product used for the removal of oils, dirt, skin particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and
other contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair. It is a cosmetic preparation; Its primary function is of cleans-
ing the hair of accumulated sebum, scalp debris and residues of hair-grooming preparations. Dandruff, a clinical condi-
tion caused by Malassezia (Pityrosporum) species is of great cosmetic concern all over the world. Dandruff is known to be
controlled by fungistatic ingredients in Anti-dandruff shampoos. The main objective of this study was to eliminate harm-
ful synthetic ingredient from anti-dandruff shampoo formulation and substitute them with a safe natural ingredients. An
attempt has been made to combine modern formulation technology in to a formula based on natural ingredients. Herbal
shampoo was prepared with Sida cordifolia leaf extract and soap nut and shikakai were used as surfactants. Evaluation of
organoleptic properties, physicochemical and performance test were performed and compared with synthetic marketed
product. The result indicated that formulation LF had properties which were at par in comparison with an established
marketed brand of synthetic anti-dandruff shampoo.
Keywords: Anti-dandruff, shampoo, synthetic, natural .

Received : 2013; Revised & Accepted: 2013; Available online: 2013

INTRODUCTION
Shampoo may be described as a cosmetic preparation meant for
the washing of hair and scalp, packed in a convenient form for use.
Its primary function is of cleansing the hair of accumulated sebum,
scalp debris and residues of hair-grooming preparations
(B.M.Mithal, 1994; ShobhaRani.R.Hiremath,2008). According to the
world health organization, herbal medicines are being used by
about 80% of the world population primarily in the developing
countries for primary health care. This plant-based traditional me-
dicinal system continues to play an essential role in health care (V P
Kapoor, 2005; Kunda B. Patkar,2008).
Sida cordifolia (Family: Malvaceae) commonly known as Bala
(Sanskrit) is an herb that is extensively used as a common herbal
healing agent in the Indian subcontinent. It is used in the folk med-
icine for several purposes such as antirheumatic, antipyretic, laxa-
tive, diuretic, antiinflammatory, analgesic,hypoglycaemic, antiasth-
matic, aphrodisiac and to relievenasal congestion. The leaf, bark,
seeds and roots are known to possess medicinal properties. A pre-
liminary phytochemical screening of the hydroalcoholic extract of
the leaves of Sida cordifolia demonstrated the presence of alka-
loids, steroids, flavonoids and saponins. The leaves contain ephed-
rine, pseudoephedrine (vasoconscrictor),vasicinone, vasicine and
Correspondence
Department of Pharmaceutics
Academy of Pharmaceutical Sciences
Pariyaram Medical College, Pariyaram
Mobile: +918893392288, Email: scshenoy@gmail.com
vasicinol. Methanolic extract of Sida cordifolia has been tested for
antimicrobial activity and found to be effective against Mycobac-
terium species,Bacillus subtilis, Klebsiella pneumonia, Micrococ-
cusvariance compared to other extracts. The aqueous extract
exhibited strong antifungal activity on Cryptococcus neoformans
and Candida albicans (Ternikar, S et al., 2010)
When we look in to traditional shampoo market it is strongly
dominated by shampoo’s of synthetic origin. Sodium lauryl sulfate
based detergents are the most common but the concentration
will vary considerably from brand to brand and even within a
manufacturer's product range. These shampoo’s of synthetic in-
gredients are harmful especially during regular usage. This causes
severe dryness of hair and shaft leading fall in hair and destroying
budding hair shafts. Herbal ingredients or their formulations are
viable alternative to synthetic agents. During the past few dec-
ades, there has been a dramatic increase in the use of natural
products in cosmetics. Natural botanicals may be used in their
crude form, purified extracts, or derivatives are added to effect.
Now-a-days, many herbal shampoos are available in the market
which contains herbal ingredients such as plant extracts and es-
sential oil. There are large numbers of plants which are reported
to have beneficial effects on hair and are commonly used in
shampoos. A list of plants which are commonly used in shampoos
is given in table (Table No. 1) along with their common names
and reported functions and uses (Swati Deshmukh et al., 2012;
Shweta K et al., 2011; Pandey Shivanand et al., 2010). In this in-

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10
 Chandran et al., (2013) Evaluation of antidandruff shampoo based on natural sources

Table No. 1: List of ingredients and their category

Sr No Common name Botanical name Parts used Category

1 kurunthotti Sida cordifolia Leaves Antidandruff activity

2 Tulsi Ocimum sanctum Leaves Antimicrobial agent
3 Neelamari Indigofera tinctoria Leaves Hair coloring and hair growth promoter
4 Henna Lawsonia inermis Leaves Hair coloring and hair growth promoter
5 Soap nut Sapindus indica Fruit Detergent
6 Shikakai Acacia concinna Powder Detergent
7 Vetiver Vetiveria zizanioides Root Coolant and anti-bacterial agent
8 Hibiscus Rosa-sinencis Leaves Conditioning agent
Strengthen hair, antidandruff agent, promotion of hair
9 Amla Emblica officinalis Fruit
growth
10 Linseed Linum usitatissimum Seed Sequestering agent
11 Lemon Citrus limon Fruit Antidandruff, natural cleanser, pH modifier
12 Guar gum Cyamopsis tetragonolobus Powder Thickening agent

Table No. 2: Composition of developed formulation odour. All evaluations where reported and discussed (Deshmukh
Sl. No Compound L F (% w/v) et al., 2012; Sharma et al., 2011).
1 Sida cordifolia 15 b. Determination of pH
2 Ocimum sanctum 10
Developed formulation was diluted using distilled water to pre-
3 Indigoferatinctoria 10
4 Lawsoniainermis 5 pare a sample with 10 % concentration. The prepared sample was
5 Hibiscus rosasinensis 5 checked for pH using a digital pH meter at room temperature
6 Vetiver zizanoides 5 30±2°C (Sharmaet al., 2011).
7 Sapindus indica 20
8 Acacia concinna 20 c. Determination of percentage solids contents
9 Flax seed 0.15 A clean dry china dish was weighedand added with 4 grams of
10 Lemon qs shampoo. The dish with shampoo was weighed. The exact weight
11 Guar gum 1
of the shampoo was calculated. The china dish withshampoo was
12 Perfume qs
13 Amla decoction Q.S. 100 ml placed on the hot plate untilthe liquid portion was evaporated.
Theweight after drying was calculated (Sharmaet al., 2011).

vestigation an attempt has been made to develop a stable anti-

dandruff shampoo by eliminating all traditionally incorporated
synthetic ingredients and replace them with suitable natural com-
ponents. Developed shampoo is expected to maintain its stability
throughout its shelf life and keep the expectations of the consumer
as cosmetic product.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
All plant materials were collected from approved herbal gardens
and identified and authenticated by botanist. Collected plant parts
were processed and stored under prescribed conditions. Extracts
were prepared according to established procedures and subjected
them for identification test of various phytochemical constituents
(Mali R et al., 2010; Sagar R and Dixit V K, 2005; Chukwu O.O.C et al.,
2011; V. Subhadradevi et al.,2012; RupeshkumarGhagi et al., 2011;
Sabahat Saeed and Perween Tariq, 2007). Formulation developed
from natural ingredients (LF) was compared with a established mar-
keted product (MS) for evaluations listed below. Results obtained
during the study was subjected for discussion
Formulation of shampoo
Composition of the developed formulation is summarized in the
table (Table No.2). Aqueous decoction of Emblica officinalis was
divided into 2 parts. First part was added with herbal extract and
second part was used to mix powders of soap nut and shikakai.
Both parts were mixed. To the mixture flax seed, guar gum and
stabilizer were added with stirring. Shampoo formulation was fil-
d. Measurement of viscosity
The viscosity of the shampoo was determined by using Brookfield
Viscometer LVDV Prime-I. The viscosity of shampoo was meas-
ured at room temperature i.e. 30±2°C with varying rpm and
torque (Sharma et al., 2011).
e. Surface tension measurement
Dilute the shampoo using distilled water to fix 10% as concentra-
tion. Measurements were carried out using stalagmometer. Dip
the flattened end of stalagmometer in to beaker containing sam-
ple of developed shampoo and suck it until the level reaches the
mark. Fix that in the stand and allow the sample to run slowly
from the mark. Count the number of drops formed when level of
liquid reaches from A to B. Repeat the experiment with distilled
water. The data was calculated using following equation
(Sharmaet al., 2011).
W1 is weight of empty beaker.
W2 is weight of beaker with distilled water
W3 is Weight of beaker with shampoo solution.
N1 is no. of drops of distilled water.
N2 is no. of drops of shampoo solution.

tered and made up to the volume using aqueous decoction of Em- R1 is surface tension of distilled water at room temperature.

blica officinalis. Developed shampoo was stored in a suitable con- R2 is surface tension of shampoo solution

tainer and used for further evaluations. f. Cleaning action

Evaluation of shampoo formulation 5 grams of wool yarn was added in grease and it was placed in
a. Physical appearance/visual inspection flask containing 200 ml of water with 1 gram of shampoo. Tem-
perature of content in the flask was maintained at 30±2°C. The
Developed formulation was evaluated for their clarity, color and

11

flask was shaken for 4 minutes at the rate of 50 shakes per minute.
The solution was removed andsample was taken out, dried and
weighed.The amount of grease removed wascalculated by using the
following equation (Swati Deshmukh et al., 2012; Sharma et al.,
2011).
In which, DP= percentage of detergency power
C= weight of sebum in the control sample
T= weight of sebum in the test sample
g. Foaming ability and foam stability
Cylinder shake method with slight modification was used for deter-
mining foaming ability. 50ml of the 1% shampoo solution was put
into a 250 ml graduated measuring cylinder and covered with hand.
Measuring cylinder was shaken for 1 minute. The total volume of
the foam contents after 1 minute shaking was recorded. The proce-
dure was continued for 5 minutes .
h. In-vitro anti-dandruff activity
Candida albicans were employed for testing antifungal activity using
the cup-plate method. The culture was maintained on sabouraud’s
agar slants. 20 ml of melted sabouraud’s agar medium was inoculat-
ed with 0.2 ml of 72 hour old suspension of Candida albicans and
poured in to a petri dish. The cups (10 mm diameter) were punched
in the petri dishes and filled with 0.05ml of a solution of the sample
dissolved in DMSO (10 ml of shampoo in 100 ml of DMSO). The
plates were kept for diffusion at 40C for one hour and incubated at
300C for 48 hours. After the completion of incubation period, the
zone of inhibition in millimeter were measured (Ternikar, S. G et
al.,2010).
i. Stability studies
Stability studies were performed in accordance with ICH guidelines
for accelerated testing with required modifications. The sample
taken formulation was taken and kept at room temperature (30 ±
20C) as well as refrigerator (4±20C) for duration of one month. The
samples were tested for their physical appearance, pH, viscosity, %
cleaning action and foam stability (Sharmaet al., 2011).
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The versatile functionality is expected from shampoo by today’s
consumer which is far beyond its general functions. Majority of
ingredients in these shampoos have been under severe attack due
to its potential risk with its usage. Hence formulating shampoo with
safer natural and naturally derived ingredients may be desirable.
Ingredients used in this investigation have been already established
with their activity and usage among the scientific community as well
as general consumers. More than the functionality of ingredients,
main challenge was to develop stable and functionally effective
shampoo from these natural ingredients. The ingredients along with
their common name, botanical name, parts used and category has
been listed in the table (Table No.1).The result of phytochemical
screening showed that the extracts were rich of alkaloids, flavo-
noids, phenolic compounds, saponins, amino acids etc. These phy-
tochemical constituents has got well established antidandruff, de-
tergent and conditioning activities (Mali R et al., 2010).
In this study Sida cordifolia Linn was the major ingredient with anti-
dandruff usage. While formulating herbal antidandruff shampoo,
initial studies focused on selection of extract of Sida cordifolia which
has proved antidandruff activity. Aqueous and alcoholic extract of
Sida cordifolia was taken, in which aqueous extract is proved to
have better antidandruff activity which may be due to the presence
of vasicinol, ephedrine, vasicinone, hsypaphorine. Hence aqueous
extract of Sida cordifolia was used to develop the shampoo formu-
lations (Ternikar, S et al., 2010).
Formulating cosmetic such as hair shampoo using completely natu-
J Pharm Phytother 2013, 1:4 (ISSN 2321-5895)
ral raw material is a challenging task. The challenge lies in select-
ing materials that can be rationally justified as natural and formu-
lating them into a stable hair shampoo that’s functionally compa-
rable with their synthetic counter parts. Aqueous decoctions of
Emblica officinalis was selected and used as a base for this sham-
poo formulation. Since the aqueous decoction of Emblica offici-
nalis has an established antiseptic activity, which may intern im-
prove the stability of the formulation. Most of the herbal sham-
poo use water as the base which may cause stability issue for the
formulation, the aqueous decoction of Emblica officinalis may be
a better alternative for the commonly used aqueous base.
Evaluation of developed product for the test parameters such as
pH, % solid contents, viscosity, cleaning action, foam stability and
in-vitro anti-dandruff activity were carried out in this study. A
commercially available synthetic anti-dandruff shampoo was
selected and subjected for evaluation with similar parameters.
Good physical appearance is always essential for any cosmetic
preparation and it is no difference for shampoo. Physical evalua-
tions were carried out for characteristics such as color, odour, and
transparency (Table No. 3). Developed formulation LF was dark
brown in color and transparent. The formulation LF had good
odour which may play a major role on its aesthetic appeal to-
Table No. 3: Physical evaluations and pH
Sr. Formula- Color Odour Transpar- pH
NO tions code ency
1 LF Dark brown Good Transparent 5.42
2 MS Yellowish Good Transparent 5.48
white
wards the consumer. The physical evaluation of the sample
against marketed sample proved no significant differences in
terms of odour and transparency expect for color. Which may re-
emphasis the ability of natural ingredients to develop hair sham-
poo with similar physical attributes as that of their synthetic coun-
terparts. Balanced pH is one of the ways to minimize damage to
the hair. Citrous limoni is one of the natural alternatives to
achieve the pH range. The formulation LF possesses pH 5.42,
which was almost near to that of synthetic counter parts (Table
No.3).
Formulation of shampoo using natural or synthetic ingredients
may contain too many solids. Filtration is one of the methods to
minimize the solid content up to an extent. If the shampoo has
too many solids, it will be hard to work into the hair or too hard
to wash out. The formulation LF had percentage solids contents
of 25.75% and marketed sample MS percentage solid content of
25%. The value seems to be comparable with the established
marketed brand (Table No.4). It has been mentioned that a good
shampoo should be able to decreases the surface tension of pure
water to about 40 dynes/cm. The reduction in surface tension of
water from 72.8 dynes/cm to 25.86 dynes/cm by the herbal sham-
poos is an indication of their good detergency action The formu-
lation LF was possessing lower surface tension value i.e. 25.86
dynes/cm; hence it may be having which may have good deter-
gent action. The possible reason for the lower surface tension
value of LF may be because of the combination of soap nut and
shikakai in an optimized ratio as surfactant. When these results
Table No. 4: % solid content, surface tension, and % cleans-
ing action for formulations
Surface
Sr. Formula- % solid % Clean-
tension
No tion code content ing action
(dynes/cm)
1 LF 25.75% 25.86 33.22%
2 MS 25.00% 24.76 32.17%
12
 Chandran et al., (2013) Evaluation of antidandruff shampoo based on natural sources
were compared with the marketed sample there was no significant
difference observed. This proves the effectiveness of soap nut and
shikakai in combination as a best replacement for synthetic surfac-
tant, which are commonly incorporated in marketed shampoo.
Cleaning action was tested on wool yarn in grease.The efficiency of
developed formulations to remove the grease applied on the wool
yarn was assessed and reported (Table No.4). Formulation LF, which
was incorporated with multiple surfactants, had percentage cleaning
action of 33.22. The percentage cleaning action obtained for the
marketed sample in this investigation was 32.17, which was margin-
ally lesser than LF3. The possible reason behind the improved per-
centage cleaning action of developed formulation LF may be be-
cause of incorporation of two surface active agents, soap nut and
shikakai in optimized concentration. The presence of these surface
active agents might have resulted in reduction of surface tension;
more effectively than its established marketed sample (Chris the
limey , 2010).Another important advantage found with developed
formulation especially LF, was its ability not to leave the wool yarn
excessively dried. Whereas, the wool yarn sample which was treated
with marketed sample left dried out, this was considered to be one
of the major drawbacks of synthetic hair shampoos containing syn-
thetic detergents which are regarded on “oil strippers” (Chris the
limey , 2010).
Guar gum was used in this formulation for improving viscosity. Guar
gum has high water-thickening potency, which is almost eight times
greater than corn starch. Hence, only a small quantity was needed
to increase the viscosity of a product (0.5-1%).The viscosity meas-
urement showed that theviscosity of the samples changes gradually
with the increase in rpm, therefore the shampoo formulations were
time dependent and developed shampoo formulation was shear
thinning or pseudo plastic innature. Pseudo plastic behavior is ade-
sirable attribute in shampoo formulation. This behavior may favor
spreading property of developed formulations (Fig No.1).Developed
formulation LF possessed higher viscosity and with increase in the
shear rate, the viscosity of the shampoos dropped in compared with
marketed sample; this is a favorable property which eases the
spreading of the shampoo on hair.
Foam is also called lathering and does not have much to do with
the cleaning process. But it is of paramount importance to the con-
sumer and is therefore an important criterion in evaluation of sham-
poos (Sharmaet al., 2011).The higher foaming property of LF may be
due to the combination of soap nut and shikakai. Normally it is
considered that forming ability of natural shampoo is not compara-
ble with its synthetic counter parts. But the study proves that com-
bination of natural surfactants such as soap nut and shikakai in
optimized concentration (20% w/v) can generate sufficient foam for
the shampoo. When the developed formulation was compared with
established marketed sample, even though foam volume was higher
for marketed sample143 ml in 1 minute and 129 ml after 5 minutes.
Whereas the LF which had highest foam volume, ie130 ml in 1 mi-
nute and 119 ml after 5 minutes, was not showing significant differ-
ences in terms of foam volume and foam stability. When we closely
observed the data, the drop in foam volume was marginally higher
for marketed sample when compared with LF (Table No. 5) This data
Table No.5: Foam volume of developed formulation
Time in Foam volume in ml
minutes
LF MS
1 130 143
2 127 140
3 124 134
4 121 132
5 119 129
may prove the ability of natural surfactants soap nut and shikakai; in
optimized concentration as the best replacement for the harsh syn-
thetic detergents which are commonly used in majority of synthetic
and their commercial herbal shampoo.
Dandruff is a common embarrassing scalp disorder affecting
global populations. The aim of the dandruff treatment is to re-
duce the count of Malassezia furfur on the scalp and goals of
therapy are to reduce morbidity and prevent complications.
Malassezia furfuris yeast like fungus Sabahat Saeed and Perween
Tariq, 2007; A R Manikar and C I Jolly,2001),so antifungal study is
carried out for evaluating antidandruff activity of developed
formulations. Dandruff is caused by the commensal lipophilic
yeast and hence cannot be completely eliminated but can only
be managed. Recent years for the treatment of dandruff, verity
of synthetic and natural ingredients are commercially incorpo-
rated in shampoo.The antifungal activity of developed formula-
tions showed positive resultsagainst the tested fungal pathogen
Candidaalbicans, (Table No. 6). Formulation LF had shown maxi-
mum inhibition, ie 20mm. Marketed formulation possesses lower
antifungal activity as compared with LF. The maximum antifun-
gal activity of formulation LF may be because of the presence of
Sidacordifolia, which has established anti-dandruff activity. But
this study may prove that ability of Sida cordifolia as anti-
dandruff agent might have improved in the presence of good
surfactant ie optimized combination of soap nut and shikakai.
When zone of inhibition was measured, formulation LF3 was
having highest zone of inhibition of 20 mm, which was higher
than the commercially established marketed shampoo contain-
ing synthetic ingredients. The results from in-vitro anti-dandruff
study confirm the ability of antidandruff shampoo developed
from natural ingredients is the best replacement for synthetic
counterparts, if formulated with best ingredients in optimized
combination.
Table No.6: In vitro antidandruff activity of formulations
Sr Zone of
Organisms Formulations
NO inhibition (mm)
1 Candida albicans LF 20
2 Candida albicans MS 19
Stability and acceptability of organoleptic properties of formula-
tions during the storage indicated physical and chemical stability
of developed formulations. Stability of LF was checked for select-
ed parameters after the interval of one month. There was mar-
ginal increase in pH was reported for the developed formulation
with increase in temperature, ie at 45±20C after one month.
Fig No.1: Viscosity for the developed formulation LF
When % cleansing action was assessed for developed formula-
tion after one month, it was evident that % cleansing action was
dropped at negligible level. Over all stability of shampoo devel-
oped from natural ingredients was good at a temperature rang-
ing between 4 – 450C.
CONCLUSION
The main purpose behind this investigation was to develop a
stable and functionally effective antidandruff shampoo by ex-
cluding all types of synthetic additives, which are normally incor-
porated in such formulations. When investigation data were
13

assessed, it was quite evident that development of stable, effective
hair shampoo which may be commercially replacing the existing
shampoo based on synthetic agents was possible. Main challenge
lies in the area of standardizing the natural ingredients which may
assure the batch to batch consistency of these products when pro-
duced in large scale. Shift towards nature does not mean to pro-
duce products by destroying existing nature. It will be essential to
have a green revolution which may definitely help our society to
survive healthier and long lasting. This world believes in the concept
of green pharmacy or green cosmetics, hence there is a huge scope
for shampoo developed from natural origin. But more radical ap-
proach in popularizing natural shampoo, with emphasis on safety
and efficacy has to be done among the consumers. Further long
term studies may be recommended to prove the safety, stability and
efficacy of this formulation to make it suitable as a commercial
product.
DECLARATION OF INTEREST
The authors report no declarations of interest.
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