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Trims and
Merchandising Sampling Fabric store
accessories store
department department department
department
Shipment
Production sample Finishing Packing
Shipment
Receipt of the BOM draft for Raw material Raw material
Pattern making
techpack sampling procurement inspection
Approval Getting
Order approved Raw material R aw material
sample approvals on
for production procurement inspection
development size set samples
Order file
Send shipment Follow up with Approval on pre GPT/FPT to
transferred to
samples to the the production production conform to
the production
buyer department sample standards
department
Follow up with
the production
department till
delivery
Internal & external communication
Sampling
Helping documentation
Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/36/3516/merchandising-in-an-apparel-industry1.
Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.
• Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the factory based
on proto sample .
• Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors with the style.
Proto sample
• It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and then
checked on the dress form.
• The buyer may make the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the style details etc.
• Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy and
for approval of construction details.
Fit sample
• The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be used for bulk
production or sample yardage fabric is used.
• In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for photo shoot sample.
Photo shoot sample • Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like, print, TV
or websites to see the response of the consumer.
• The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
Sales man / Marketing • In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need to be used.
/Showroom sample • This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends upon this sample
presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
• The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the
Size set sample sample in all sizes
• 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.
• The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to
ensure the performance of the garment.
GPT sample (Garment
• GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well as
Performance Test) buyer.
• The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
• Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric
Wash sample after washing.
• The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing
TOP sample (Top of line.
Production) • In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
• Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
• Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual
Shipment sample shipment and sent to buyer.
• The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
Functions of the fabric store department
Receive the fabric as per BOM
To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and production & other material
as per requirement.
Preparation for
Planning Spreading Cutting
sewing
Spreading and cutting flow process
Spreads
Markers
Planning
Production
Manual
Spreading
Machine
Manual
Cutting
Machine
Ticketing
Preparation
for sewing
Bundles
Planning
meet deadlines
Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making
Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed
Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment and personnel
The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and
shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization.
One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency.
A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.
Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space.
type of equipment,
spread length,
cutting time.
Marker
is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes
to be cut from a single spread.
Marker making
is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified
style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)
Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.
By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low
as possible.
It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention. These
include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details such
as drill holes and notches.
Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company may save
or waste thousands of dollars a year.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Markers types:
Blocks or Sections
Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the
pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.
Continuous marker
Markers types:
Open marker
Marker made with full pattern pieces.
Closed marker
Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the tube (tubular knit).
Closed marker
Marker making
Computerized marker
Manually produced
making (CAD)
Manual marker
Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply
Time consuming.
Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line definition, omission of pcs.)
Direct or digitized.
Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are entered into the computer.
Can be printed/recalled/modified.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Marker mode : Nap/ Either/ Way
The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is
made where there is no restriction of which way the
pattern are oriented.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Marker mode : Nap/ Up/& Down
The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated
N/U/D) is more efficient than the Nap/ One/ Way
marker, but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/
Way marker.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Marker Efficiency
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
It is determined for fabric utilization
Minimum waste
Grain requirements
Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting
table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process
Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker
Manual Machine
In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from
its package which, if it is a roll, may be
supported by a frame and carried along the
table where the end is secured by weights
or by clamps.
Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two spreading operators
(thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll) walking along both sides of cutting table.
While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries
the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to come back to starting
position without spreading the fabric. This return movement of spreading machine is called
as “dead heading”
The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being held in place by catcher, at
layer end fabric is not cut just folded and held by another catcher while the fabric
is being laid by the machine during it’s return movement also.
The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table
thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and
return back to starting position without.
Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face.
At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and start
spreading the second layer from the opposite end face one way. There is no dead heading
by the machine in this spreading mode.
Cutting
Manual Machine
Power system
Handle
Sharpening
Cutting blade
Blade guard
Up and down movement
Ticketing Bundles
Preparation for sewing
Ticketing
Tickets carry details : style no, size,
ply no, bundle no., date issued
Operations may be incorporated for
payment purposes, control of work
and facilitating quality control
Preparation for sewing
Bundling
Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a
controlled way
Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.
If ticketing is not done, a top ply labeling system is done
Measurement
Final checking Tagging Packing
checking
QA audit by the
Ex - factory
buying house
Sewing department
Conventional bundle
system
Clump system
Modular manufacturing
system
Production system: Make through system
It is the traditional method of manufacture in which an operator makes right through
one garment at a time.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Conventional bundle system
Sewing machines are arranged in lines.
The work flows from the central (store) area to the first
machine, from the first machine back to the store, and
then on to the next machine, and so forth.
A distributor stationed at the store is responsible for
receiving and dispatching the work.
The work in progress is in the form of bundles.
These bundles may be put on to a tray, a box, or a bag,
or the garment parts may be wrapped and tied.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Clump system
A worker collects a clump of materials from the
worktable and carries out the first operation.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Progressive bundle system
Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Flexible flow system
A section of sewing operators, each with a supply of work
in a rack at the side, work at an engineered work place.
The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow of work
can be planned using the correct number of operators in
sequence.
For style A garments, the work distributed after operation 1
can be distributed to the two operators performing
operation 2. On completion, the work from both workers is
then sent to operator 3. After operation 3, the work is
continued by the two operators performing operation 4
and so on.
When a new style is to be loaded on to the system, the
number of operators needed for each operation must be
planned in detail to ensure a balanced output.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Straight line system
The manufacturing process is broken down into several
operations, which take the same time to complete.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Synchro flow system
Garment parts of the same size and color are
processed separately.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Unit production system
A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line.
It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transport system to move individual
units from work-station to work station for assembly.
All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line together by
means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor.
Production operations are completed without removing the parts from the carrier.
Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of bundling, tying and
untying, and manually moving garment parts.
Electronic data can be collected from workstations, which provides payroll and inventory
data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and performance data for prompt
decision.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Modular manufacturing
system
Modular manufacturing groups operators into teams,
or modules.
Source: ApparelKey.com
Seams and stitches
Thread-guides
Thumb-nut screw
Stitch
Take-up lever regulator
Tension discs/check-
spring
Needle bar
Throat plate
Needle guard Machine bed
Presser foot
Needle Bar
Needle Eye
Presser Foot
Feed Dog
Stitch forming devices
Raised bed
Flat bed
Post bed
For the purpose of standardization of stitch and seam formations, the U.S government
developed a guide that defines stitches and seams in current use. The United States Federal
Stitch and Seam Specifications (Federal Standard 751a) were adopted in 1965.
The British Standard BS 3870: Schedule of Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings was also
developed about the same time.
The Federal Standard 751a have been replaced by ASTM D 6193, Standards Related to
Stitches and Seams.
A stitch is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.
To perform its function correctly, the seam should have properties or characteristics closely
allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.
The careful selection of the most appropriate seam, a suitable stitch type together with the
correct thread and machine settings for the fabric and end-product is of paramount
importance.
Extensibility
Durability: A seam must be durable, long-lasting and not abrade or wear easily during
everyday use of the garment
Security: a seam needs to be secure and not unravel during everyday use of the garment
Appearance properties: the ideal seam should join pieces of fabric in an unobtrusive and
efficient manner with no discontinuity in physical properties or appearance.
Balance
Bound seam
Lap seam
Edge finishing
Flat seam
Stitch length is specified as the number of stitches per inch (spi) and can be an indicator
of quality. High spi means short stitches; low spi means long stitches. Generally, the
greater the spi, the more the holding power and seam strength.
Stitch width refers to the horizontal span (bight) covered in the formation of one stitch or
single line of stitching. Stitches that have width dimensions require multiple needles or
lateral movement of thread carriers such as the needle bars, loopers or spreaders.
Stitch depth is the distance between the upper and lower surface of the stitch. It is a
factor for blind stitches.
Stitch classification
Stitch classification is based on structure of the stitch and method of interlacing.
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/100cl.htm
Stitch classification
200 Class stitch: Single thread hand sewn stitch
Using one needle thread
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/200cl.htm
Stitch classification
300 Class stitch: Two or more thread lock stitch
Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/300cl.htm
Stitch classification
400 Class stitch: Multi-thread chain stitch
Using one or more needle threads and one or more looper threads
Seaming multiple
401 Class Two threads plies with moderate
stretch
Topstitching or
404 Class Two threads
seaming with stretch
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/400cl.htm
Stitch classification
500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/500cl.htm
Stitch classification
500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/500cl.htm
Stitch classification
600 Class Stitch: Multi-thread cover stitches
Cover stitch or
602 Class Four thread
seaming knits
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/600cl.htm
Responsibilities of quality department
To impart quality in the product.
To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
To restrict the defects entering into the final product.
Main function of quality department is to carry out inspection.
Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw materials, partially
finished components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation to
some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring the garments to
check if they meet the required measurements.
Inspection
Correction of Detection of
defects defects
Feedback of
Determination
these defects
of causes of
to appropriate
defects
personnel
100% inspection
Lot or batch: Means ‘Inspection lot’ or ‘Inspection Batch’, that is a collection of units of a
product from which a sample is to be drawn and inspected.
Lot or batch size: The lot or batch size is the number of units of a product in a lot or batch
Minor Defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed as a second either
because of severity or location.
Second: A ‘Second’ is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the saleability or
serviceability of the item.
Ply-to-ply fusion
Single-edge fusion
Notches
Drills
Seam pucker
Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garment, twisted,
Mismatched trimming
Stitches/inch Measurements
Distortion
The AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer indicates will be
accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling procedures to be used.
Sampling Plans
Sample Size Code Sample
Letter Size Acceptable Quality Level
2.5 4 6.5 10
Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
A 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
B 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
C 5 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
D 8 0 1 1 2 1 2 2 3
E 13 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 4
F 20 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6
G 32 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8
H 50 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11
J 80 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15
K 125 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22
L 200 10 11 14 15 21 22 21 22
M 315 14 15 21 22 21 22 21 22
Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final look.
It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets the garment free
from defects.
Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust, tracing
marks, yellow stains, and hard stains
Seam ironing: Ironing of garments using steam ironing tables with vacuum boards.
Final finishing: The entire garment is finished using various finishing equipments.
It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation. Checkers check the
packed garments for the following things: