Front

Brakes 11

6. With the spindle removed you can raise the bike

from the ground and the wheel will stay on the
ground. It is okay to let the wheel speed sensor
hang. Make sure you collect both wheel spacers:
the small one goes on the ABS/wheel speed sensor
side (left side) and the large one goes on the side
without (right side).

3. Loosen the pinch bolts at the bottom of the right 7. Don’t lay the wheel down on the disc brakes! Make
fork using T6 Hex adapter. a platform or use and old tyre to rest the wheel on.

8. Using T25 TORX bit remove the 5 bolts/screws

securing the ABS pulser ring if fitted. Clean and
inspect the ABS ring for damaged, warp or missing
teeth and renew if needed (part T2027210). Note
the orientation of both the ABS and disc brake. On
the top of the disc is the word ‘OUTSIDE’ and to
the left of that is the word ‘OUT’. Take note of
these so they go back into the same position later.
4. Lower the bike (or raise slightly if you did the
Also if there is threadlock on the screws clean them
previous steps with the bike on the ground) so that
off with a tap and die set, do the same with the
the wheel is straight and the wheel is resting on the
holes.
ground.

5. Undo the spindle from the right fork using a 19mm

hex. I found this adapter useful: I could use a 17mm
socket and on the other end was a 19mm Hex.
12 Thunderbird Storm

11. Install the new bolts with Thread Lock (or cleaned
bolts) using T40 TORX bit and tighten to 22Nm.
Do them up in a star pattern so they are in place and
then with the torque wrench. See in the picture
below between old OEM bolts and new Titanium
bolts.

9. Remove the 5 disc bolts using T40 TORX bit in a

star pattern. The manual says to discard these bolts
but with sufficient cleaning, a wire brush, thread-
lock compound and the right torque there should be
no issues. If you want to be extra safe and replace
them you require part T2020609 (5 per side). I
would recommend going a step further and order
yourself a set of Titanium ones that will never rust
in the elements. Again use a tap and die to clean off
and out the old threadlock.
12. Repeat steps 9-11 for the opposite disc brake.

13. Clean all parts: spacers, axel, pinch bolts, wheel,

brake pin, anti-rattle spring and calipers.

14. Refit the ABS pulser ring, if fitted, using T25

TORX bit and tighten sensibly (5Nm).

15. Make sure the wheel spacers are smooth then smear
a bit of red rubber grease onto the wheel spacers
and put them in place: smaller one on the wheel
10. Inspect the new disc and place it with the correct speed sensor side (left) and the larger one on the
orientation onto the wheel. The word outside must other (right).
be on the outside and the holes must be in the right
direction. I found it useful to place the disc you are
about to put on over the top of the old disc in the
same orientation to make sure they match exactly
because left and right discs are different.

16. Lower the bike and forks into place and maneuver
the wheel into place being careful not to knock the
wheel spacers out. Also check that the wheel speed
sensor is back in place sitting on its lug.
17. Smear some copper grease (just a little bit) on the
front wheel spindle. Slide it in from the right side of
the bike and screw it into the left for using 19mm
hex/adapter and tighten to 65Nm.
18. Reposition both calipers over the discs and install
the bolts using 15mm socket to 50Nm.
19. Install the new brake pads as per the instructions
above: de-glaze the brake pads using sandpaper or a
scotch pad on the contact surface, smear some
copper grease onto the back of each pad, slide them
into place, put the anti-rattle spring in place, put
some copper grease onto the retaining pin and
install it using T5, and finally secure it with a new
R-clip. If the calipers are too far out then undo the
front brake master cylinder reservoir lid and push
Front Brakes 13
the caliper back into it’s holding to create more
room.
20. With the brake pads in place on the disc the right
caliper needs to be central to the disc. Basically
there is a small amount of movement in the fork
from left to right. With the pinch bolts loose push
the two forks together and you will probably see a
changing gap between the fork and the spacer on
the right side. You need to push the two forks
together (or apart) to close the gap and thus
making the caliper central to the disc. First put
some copper grease onto the pinch bolt treads and
place them into the holes. Remove the brake pads
to increase visibility if you wish (see above). Then
push the right fork leg left or write until it is
central. Hold it there and then do up the pinch
bolts to 22Nm. It is a small difference but it needs
to be central for it to work correctly.
Not central Central
Air Gap
21. Check and adjust the gap between the wheel speed
sensor and the ABS pulser ring. The gap must be
0.37mm-1.25mm. Use a feeler gauge to check the
space between the ABS ring and the wheel speed
sensor. If the gap is too big or too small then the
shim needs to be changed to a thicker or thinner
one. The shim is the metal plate between the speed
sensor and the holding.
ABS Sensor
14 Thunderbird Storm
Caliper Overhaul
What you need before hand
Measure Gap
Shim
Steps: Removal/Inspection
22. De-glaze the surface of the disc: use some scotch
pad, fold it in half over the brake disc. Spin the
wheel multiple times until the factory coating is
removed from the disc rotor. Then use a clean rag
with some brake cleaner and wipe off the excess
until it is clean.
23. Once all done pump the brakes to move the pistons
into position (you DON’T want to forget that step).
Check that the brakes are working and the wheel
spins properly. If not problems solve- do the brakes
need bleeding, are the brake pads installed properly
and check previous steps.
Job Done!
• O-ring
• Screwdriver adapter: T5, T6
• Air compressor/Piston Removal Tool
• Triumph/Nissin caliper seal kit x2- includes 8x
new seals, 2x joint seals and 2x new banjo bolt
sealing (copper) washer.
• Possibly new pistons if damaged: T2020573
• Brake fluid: Dot 4
• Copper grease
• Torque wrench
• Sockets: HW6, 14mm
• Spanner: 8mm
• Small pick
24. Keep the bike upright using a wheel chock or
bike lift. It doesn’t matter which caliper you
start with but it is best to do both sides. Both
sides are identical.
25. Remove the brake pads- remove the split pin on
the retaining pin, remove the retaining pin using
T5 screwdriver adapter and anti-rattle spring
(see above for more detail).
Retaining Pin
Anti-Rattle Spring
26. Before removing the caliper from the bike you
want to loosen the 4 bolts that attach the two
halves of the caliper using a HW6 socket. If you
don’t do this then when you have removed it
you will find it very difficult to undo the bolts.
Do not put the caliper in a vice, as you will
likely damage the soft caliper metal.
 Front Brakes 15

27. Loosen the two bolts attaching the caliper to the

forks using 14mm socket. It helps to have them
loosely in while you do the next step and then
remove them.
29. With the bolts off and the brake line
disconnected move the caliper off the brake
disc. Don’t spill any brake fluid on anything
else. If you are worried about spilling any from
the brake hose, put a small plastic bag over it
and an elastic band to keep it on. It’s a good
idea to clean the dirt off the brake hose ends at
this point.

28. Remove the brake hose (banjo bolt) from the

caliper using 14mm socket. Keep it elevated so
that the fluid doesn’t poor out everywhere. If
you want to change the brake fluid then let it
drain out. If you don’t want to drain the fluid 30. Remove the bleed nipple (preferably a speed
put a rubber O-ring around the hole in the banjo bleeder) using a 8mm spanner.
bolt to keep it in the system. You’ll still need to
bleed it later but it will speed up the process. Or
you can use a bungee cord to keep it elevated
and wrap the end in a plastic bag. Either way
place a rag around the wheel to reduce the
chance of brake fluid dripping on the paint
work.

31. Using T6 screw bit remove the 4 bolts attaching

the two halves of the caliper. The Service
16 Thunderbird Storm
Manual says to replace them using part 2x of
part T2020288 and 2x T2020287. But this is
expensive and with sensible use of torque and
Locktite I believe you can reuse these bolts.
Run them through a tap and die set to clean the
treads. Ordering new titanium alternatives for
maximum durability from the Internet is also an
option.
32. With the caliper split in two remove the two
joint seals using a small pick and discard them.
35. Before removing the seals move your finger
33. At this point it is an option to not pop the piston
all the way out of its bore. This way you can
clean the outside of the piston and pop it back
in. This will suffice if they aren’t too bad but if
you want a full strip down and clean then carry
on. If not skip to step 16.
34. Removing the pistons. There are several ways
you can do this. One way it to pump
compressed air into them and the piston will
pop out. The down side to this is that you have
to cover multiple holes to make it work. Also
when you pop one piston out you are stuck with
the other one in there. The second way to
remove the piston is with a piston removal tool.
I tried two different types; one a slide hammer
type and the other a grip tool. The slide hammer
type is good for pistons that are extremely stuck
but the down side is it isn’t easy to get the
piston off the tool. The grip tool is easier to use
but does mark the inside of the piston and may
not help with severely corroded pistons. Either
way, the choice is yours. I preferred the slide
hammer method as there was less damage to the
piston, but safety goggles helps so when it pops
off you don’t end up with brake fluid splashing
in your eye.
across the inside of the bore. You will notice
that the inner deal has a slight lip on it. I
couldn’t quite tell if it is the shape of the seal or
the shape of the bore that causes this lip. Either
way, when you put the new seals in later you
want to make sure that lip is there otherwise the
pistons wont work as they should. Using a small
pick remove the 4 seals from each half (8 in
total) and discard them. There are several
options on the Internet for a caliper seal kit
replacement kit, make sure you get two
complete caliper sets to rebuild left and right (8
piston seals, 8 dust seals and, 4 caliper seals).
You can see in the picture below the removal of
the dust seal and on the right the removal of the
inner seal.
 Front Brakes 17

joint seals into some brake fluid and place them
into the half of the caliper.

36. Clean the four pistons and bores using fine wet
and dry sandpaper (soaked in water) or emery
cloth until all dirt is gone. Look for any damage
in on the outside of the pistons and replace if
necessary (T2020573). Clean the caliper and 40. Put the two halves of the caliper together and
any brake components with brake cleaner. using T5 screw adapter screw the 4 caliper bolts
back in the caliper. You don’t need to torque or
Re-Assembly threat lock just yet.
37. Install the 8 new piston seals. You can put them
in new brake fluid or put a thin smear of red
rubber grease on them. The piston seals are
thicker and go in first followed by the thinner
dust seal. Pop the big seal in first and if it is in
the right way you will feel the flange/lip. Clean
off any excess grease.

38. Smear some new brake fluid (or red rubber

grease) around the pistons. Push the pistons
back into their respective bores. It is imperative 41. Screw the bleed nipple in using a 8mm spanner.
that they go in straight. Push them all the way to
the bottom until they are flat. Then clean off
any excess grease.

42. Reattached the brake hose and banjo bolt to the

caliper. Make sure there is a new copper washer
on both sides of the brake hose connector. I
found it’s easier to do this before putting the
caliper back on the frame.

43. Put the caliper back in place and using 12mm

socket install the fasteners to 50Nm (yes the
39. Double check that the mating faces of the
picture below was taken before I learnt that
caliper are super clean, if it isn’t then dirt can
trying to get the brake hose on wasn’t easy,
get in compromising the brakes. Put the new
18 Thunderbird Storm

particularly when brake fluid starts dripping on 46. Return the brake pads: De-glaze the brake pads
things). using sandpaper if you haven’t recently done
this. Slide the cleaned/new brake pads into
position.

47. Put the anti-rattle spring into place. Put a tiny

amount of copper grease onto the shaft of the
retaining pin. This is to help slide the pad across
the pin, but I stress just a tiny amount. Copper
grease may not burn in a flame but it will run
with sufficient heat, so only a tiny amount
because grease and brakes don’t mix.

44. With the caliper back on and the hose attached

tighten the banjo bolt/brake hose union to
25Nm using 14mm socket. As you can see I
chose to replace mine with stainless steel ones
from ProBolt.

48. Secure the retaining pin with a new R-clip

unless it is really new. Tighten the pin sensibly
using a T5. I like to arrange it so the pin is
facing out, thus further reducing the chances of
it slipping out.

End of pin facing out

45. The Triumph manual says to use ThreeBond

1305 to secure the caliper bolts, but you can use
your choice of Threadlock. With the caliper in
place unscrew one caliper fastener at a time and
place some threadlock on the thread and install
using a T5 bit or socket to 24Nm.

49. Return to Step 2 and repeat Steps 2-25 for the

opposite caliper.

50. Check the positioning of the caliper relative to
the disc. I found that the right caliper wasn’t
central to the disc. When this happens undo the
pinch bolts on the right fork leg using a T6
screw adapter until they are loose. Remove the
brake pads to increase visibility if you wish (see
above). Then push the right fork leg left or write
until it is central. Hold it there and then do up
the pinch bolts to 22Nm. It is a small difference
but it needs to be central for it to work
correctly.
Not central Central
51. Time to bleed the brakes. If you are also
flushing out old brake fluid from the ABS then
return to step 4 in the previous section. If not
follow the instructions below to complete the
brake top up/bleed. Poor in new brake fluid into
the master cylinder.
52. The left caliper needs to be bled first. Place a
brake fluid compatible hose over the left Speed-
Bleeder nipple and into a collection container.
Front Brakes 19
53. The sequence is; 1) have the bleed nipple close,
2) squeeze the lever and keep it tight, 3) undo
the nipple with 8mm spanner and air/fluid will
come out, 4) tighten the nipple. Although with
speedbleeders you don’t need to do up the
nipple each time I find that it help pressurise the
system and get the air to the nipple. There are
other methods of bleeding the brake (vacuum,
gravity and back bleed) but this works for me.
54. Keep step 30 going until new brake fluid comes
out with no more air bubbles coming through,
shut off the speed bleeder using 8mm spanner
and tighten sensibly.
55. Repeat the bleed process for the right caliper.
56. Although no more air was coming out of the
bleed nipple my brakes still felt spongy. So I
like to finish it off by having both bleed nipples
closed, pull the lever back and cable tie it there.
Leave it over night and any remaining air will
work it’s way out. Then when you release the
lever in the morning you will find that the
brakes are very responsive because all the micro
bubbles of air you couldn’t see are now out of
the system.
57. When you are confident the brakes are bleed
role the bike off the stand/lift and test the
brakes. If it works well then try the brakes
slowly down your street. If that work well then
take it easy on your first ride. The calipers have
been rebuilt so allow them some time to bed in,
like you would with new tires, brake pads
and/or discs.
Job Done!
20 Thunderbird Storm

Brake Pad Inspection/Replacement Log

Left Caliper Right Caliper

Mileage L R L R