Home Electrician

www.thisoldhouse.com

● Introduction
● Electrical Pathways
● Is Old Wiring Safe?
● Going Beyond Code
● Suppressing the Surge
● Future-proof Wiring
● Bringing In an Electrician
● Extension Cords
● 10 Wiring Problems Solved
● Electrical Upgrades for DIYers

Introduction

Whenever we flip a switch, plug in an appliance, or adjust a reading light, we interact with the
electrical system in a house. A good electrician can make those interactions easier in a hundred little
ways, so it's best to communicate your needs early—ideally after the house is framed and before the
drywall or insulation goes up.

That's when electricians takes customers on a job-site walk-through, showing where he plans to put
switches, lights, and receptacles, and even ask them if they're left-handed or right-handed--it makes a
big difference when you're looking for the light switch. It's easy to make changes at this point in the
process, but once the walls are closed in, any second thoughts become far more difficult and expensive
to implement.

Once an electrician starts wiring a house, virtually every aspect of his work is controlled by codes, both
local and national. These codes are the final word on safe installation practices. An electrician should
be meticulous in adhering to them, yet he often goes a step further to make his electrical systems even
safer and easier to use. On the following pages, you'll see the basics of wiring a house to meet code,
along with a few extras.
Electrical Pathways
Is Old Wiring Safe?

It's not just the nation's power grid that's antiquated. The wiring inside many houses is also out of date,
straining to supply our ever-growing collection of electricity-hungry appliances, lighting, and
electronics. The circuits in these older homes weren't designed to power the many gadgets of modern
life. The signs of strain may be obvious — a tangle of extension cords and power strips sprouting from
a single outlet — or lurking unseen behind walls, ceilings, and cover plates.

Today's standard household wiring is a plastic-sheathed, insulated three-wire cable, universally known
by the trade name Romex. But the vintage copper wiring in many older houses works just as well as the
new stuff, as long as it's in good condition and hasn't been altered in a way that violates code. Here are
some wiring systems you'll find in older homes.

Knob and Tube Armored Cable (Bx)

The earliest residential wiring system has a cloth-
covered hot wire and a neutral wire, which run
parallel about a foot apart. Ceramic knobs anchor
the wires to the house framing; ceramic tubes are
used where wires cross or penetrate framing.
The successor to knob and tube. A flexible steel
sheath covers hot and neutral wires, which are
insulated with cloth-covered rubber. The sheath
provides a ground, so grounded receptacles are
easy to retrofit.

Caveats: Cannot be grounded or spliced into a
grounded circuit. Its soldered connections may
melt if too much current flows through them.
Rewire or disconnect any circuits covered with
building insulation; it causes this wiring to
overheat.
Caveats: Sheath must be anchored securely to a
metal outlet box. Check condition of insulation
every five years or so; it degrades over time, as
shown above, or if too much current is allowed to
flow through the circuit.
 Two-wire plastic-sheathed cable

An early PVC-insulated (Romex) wire.

Caveats: Plastic is easily damaged. Grounded receptacles

cannot be retrofitted to this wire.

Fuse boxes are less common these days than circuit breaker panels, but they work just fine — unless
someone installs fuses with a higher amperage than the wires can safely handle. That can cause the
wires to overheat, damaging their protective insulation and increasing the risk of fire. Once the
insulation has been damaged, the danger remains even if the offending fuse is replaced with one that's
the proper amperage. To fix it, the old circuit must be rewired.

Some wiring problems are just inconveniences. But others can pose serious fire or electrocution
hazards. If you're buying a house (especially one that's more than 50 years old), or if you've never had
your wiring inspected, it's a good idea to hire a licensed electrician to give your home a thorough
going-over. He'll look at the insulation on the wires to see if it's dried out and fraying, he'll look for
corrosion in the service panel, and he'll look to see if a previous owner did anything unsafe. Get a quick
follow-up inspection every five years.

Don't be alarmed if the inspection turns up code violations. Each time the electrical code is revised, old
wiring is "grandfathered," on the assumption it was installed correctly. Code only requires you to
update wiring in rooms being gut-renovated.
Going Beyond Code

When given a choice between installing outlet boxes made of blue PVC or those made of steel, many
electricians chooses plastic. Metal is so durable, but so is plastic—it'll be around forever—and it's
about 70 percent cheaper. Plastic boxes also save installation time because there's no need to ground
each one, as must be done with metal. (Local code has the last word, however; in some communities,
plastic boxes are forbidden.) Use metal boxes for light fixtures to support their weight.

Receptacles: Massachusetts requires electrical outlets every 12 feet; many put one every 8 feet--not a
big deal on the budget, but it's a lot more convenient.

Security lights: For added safety, mount exterior floodlights controlled by a switch in the master
bedroom.

Light fixtures: Hard-wires at least one light fixture to a switch. If the switch just controls the
receptacle that a lamp is plugged into, sooner or later someone turns off the lamp, and then the switch
won't work--it's a pain.

Outdoor receptacles: The code mandates two (with GFCI); Gallant installs at least three, in front and
in back.

Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters: A conventional circuit breaker can't detect the low-level arcing (a
spark-generating short circuit) that can occur on frayed or cut wires. Arc-fault circuit interrupters
(AFCIs), installed at the service panel, protect against such dangerous shorts and are now required in
new bedroom circuits.

Low-voltage Lights: What a difference a transformer makes. By taking 110-volt household power and
stepping it down to 12 volts, it allows most any homeowner to safely install low-voltage lighting
fixtures under cabinets, on ceilings, or around gardens and outdoor walkways. Low voltage doesn't
mean dim. The tiny xenon bulbs in the accent lights produce an incredibly bright light, and they boast a
10,000-hour life span.

Airtight Recessed Lights: Standard recessed lights are stylish space savers, but they leave a hole in
your ceiling where air (and heat) can escape. That's why manufacturers have perfected so-called
airtight recessed lights, which block air leaks and even allow insulation to be placed on top of the
fixture—a big no-no with old-style can lights. They're now required by code in many applications.

High-tech Electric Meters: In the future, your electric meter may be able to sense power outages,
detect wiring problems, monitor appliance efficiency, and send reports instantly to the power company.
The company can then save you money by notifying you of problems or by remotely shutting down
noncritical appliances during peak-rate hours. These are already in use with big industrial and
commercial power users.

LED Light bulbs: Light-emitting diodes (LEDs)—now seen primarily in flashlights, traffic signals,
and auto taillights—are already saving billions of kilowatt hours of electricity. They use just 10 percent
of the power needed for incandescent bulbs of the same brightness and should last for at least 10,000
hours. These wonder bulbs promise to be the next big thing in residential lighting. They'd be great for a
cathedral ceiling because you almost never have to change the bulbs.
Suppressing the Surge

It's a typical weekend evening. Your son is blow-drying his hair before a date and your spouse is
making popcorn in the microwave. You decide to check your e-mail, but just as you get online, the
monitor flickers, the cursor freezes and your hard drive crashes. You know you're facing a pricey
repair, but what you might not realize is that you're the hapless victim of a voltage surge.

Surges are an especially nasty example of the power interference that occurs in homes every day. They
can damage or destroy everything from PCs to VCRs, even if you use a fuse-protected multi outlet
strip. That's because outlet strips like these-despite what you may have been told-are powerless against
voltage surges. Without surge protection your electronic equipment is toast.

The Culprits

There are three main forms of power interference. A voltage dip happens when motors in high-draw
devices such as dishwashers and refrigerators come on and greatly reduce the suck energy available for
other devices. Flickering lights are a common sign. Electromagnetic interference is generated by
everyday electrical activity. Although it doesn't cause physical damage, it can scramble computer
memory and hurt TV and radio reception.

As annoying as these two are, they're much less harmful than a surge, the mother of all power
interference. This momentary rise in voltage can start inside or outside a home, and can fry sensitive
electronic equipment like computers.

Most surges occur when devices with motors — hair dryers, refrigerators, water pumps — shut off.
Suddenly the energy these devices were consuming is diverted elsewhere in the form of excess voltage.
Surges also happen when the electric company switches power from one geographic area of the grid to
another as supply and demand in the region changes.

The best, least expensive way to deal with most sources of power interference is to plug sensitive,
expensive electronic equipment into a surge suppressor. Most suppressors resemble power strips with
their outlets set up in a line or in a 2-by-2 or 2-by-3 arrangement; they cost from $20 up to $150.
Established manufacturers include Panamax, Tripp Lite, and American Power Conversion.

Suppressors work by absorbing some of the electrical surge and diverting the rest to ground. The top
ones use sophisticated components that allow them to react quickly (surges often last just millionths of
a second) yet endure high voltages.

Shopping For Protection

The three basic things to look for when choosing a surge suppressor are:
● UL 1449 rating. This Underwriters Laboratories rating is the standard for surge suppressors. It
ensures the suppressor can reduce a 6,000V surge, for example, to a harmless 330 to 400V one.
(Though some makers claim their devices will allow only 100 volts to reach electronic devices,
the best recognized rating is 330 volts.)
● An internal fuse. When suppressors are overwhelmed by a surge of power that lasts more than
the few milliseconds they're designed to handle, an internal fuse breaks the circuit, preventing
the surge from reaching connected devices.
 ● A solid warranty. A warranty can tell you what the manufacturer thinks of the protection its
suppressors offer. Look for a written warranty from an established company that will cover the
cost of any damage to the equipment connected to the suppressor. But remember, many
manufacturers require you to prove the suppressor was faulty before they pay up.

Depending on what equipment you're protecting, you might want some added bells and whistles:
● Fax/modem and coaxial protection. One of the most common ways a power surge enters your
home is via a phone line connected to a computer. The coaxial cable on a television set is
another common entry point. So if you've got cable or a satellite dish, or if you surf the Net,
consider a suppressor with this type of protection.
● For a home computer equipped with a modem, use a suppressor with modem and AC protection
in one unit. The American Power Conversion SurgeArrest Per7T ($39.95) combines modem
and AC protection. A light tells you when the protection is no longer working.
● For home-theater equipment, choose a suppressor that protects the coax line for cable TV,
rooftop antenna, and downline television sets (like the second set in your bedroom). Since home
theaters draw a lot of energy, look for a unit that turns on equipment sequentially to prevent a
"thump" in your speakers. Satellite TV, coax, control/data lines, and the downline phone
connection for pay-per-view hookup also need protection. The Panamax Max 6 Allpath ($79)
can be customized with add-on modules to protect these and nearly every other electrical
source. Modules cost $39 to $65 depending on application.
● Noise filters. Suppressors from Panamax, Tripp Lite, and others have noise-reduction circuitry
to eliminate electromagnetic interference. The Tripp Lite Isobar 6 ($99.95) offers AC protection
and three levels of noise protection, with increased noise filtering for computers.

How Far Do You Go?

You don't have to hook up every item with a plug to a surge suppressor. While many toaster ovens,
blenders, and coffee makers have computer chips that can be harmed by a power surge, most of these
appliances are relatively inexpensive to replace. If your microwave costs $100 to replace, buying a
surge suppressor that costs $30 or $40 to protect it is excessive.

Also remember that dishwashers, refrigerators, air conditioners, and other equipment with large motors
generally don't need surge protection. But check your home owner's insurance policy to be sure these
devices are covered for lightning damage. Some other items to check before using any surge suppressor
include:

Verifying that the three-hole wall socket it plugs into is grounded so the suppressor can dump excess
voltage to ground. If you aren't sure, use an electrical tester to run a check. The Accu-Test II ($115)
from Ecos Electronics gets the nod from electricians. It's a comprehensive tester that can check for 125
different combinations of AC wiring errors from outlets in the home.

Checking the circuits in your house — if they have not already marked on the service panel (usually in
the basement, garage or a closet) — to see which circuits carry appliances that draw high current. You
can perform a check by throwing circuit breakers selectively to isolate each circuit and the outlets and
devices connected to it. Avoid plugging sensitive equipment like computers into circuits that carry
heavy-draw/heavy interference appliances such as refrigerators and microwave ovens.

And again, use common sense. Protect your big investments, but don't pay extra to protect inexpensive
ones. Except for the teenager who has a hot date planned, few folks would consider a fried blow-dryer
a cataclysmic loss.

Big-Spike Protection

Surge suppressors are made to protect equipment that's particularly sensitive to moderate surges. But
there are systems that will protect your other devices from bigger jolts.

System Protection: If you live in an area that experiences frequent surges, consider a surge arrestor.
Installed at the service panel, an arrestor uses the same technology as a suppressor does, but it's
designed to handle higher loads and prevent damage in a broader way.

Arrestors: Arrestors are designed to protect light switches, appliance motors, the circuit breaker box,
and all the wiring in a home. These devices can generally withstand higher voltage spikes. That's why
surge arrestors take up where surge suppressors leave off. Good suppressors can cut down surges to
330V; most arrestors don't reduce surges much below 600V. An arrestor is important because it can
reduce a much higher-level surge than most suppressors can handle. But it's doesn't replace a surge
suppressor--they work hand in hand. Arrestors should conform to the ANSI/IEEE C62.11 or C62.1
standard. (Obtain a list of Underwriters Laboratories-listed arrestors from UL Data Service) Expect to
spend $50 to $250. Unless you have advanced electrical skills, figure on hiring a licensed electrician
for the installation — about another $100.

Thunderbolt Insurance: There's an even higher level of protection if you live in a lightning-prone
area: lightning protection. These systems work with a surge arrestor and surge suppressors, and consist
of lightning rods placed at intervals around your home. The rods are connected by cables that allow the
current to travel to ground. Prices vary according the size of the home, but a $1,000-to-$2,000 system
is adequate for most.

Lightning protection is specialized work that involves a lot of roof climbing; most folks turn it over to a
pro. However, check with UL before hiring a lightning-protection company. UL keeps a list of
installers certified under its Lightning Protection Installation Program. Certified installers are also
required to connect a surge arrestor.
Future-proof Wiring: Your home's need for information-carrying capacity

Welcome to the Information Age, where your television is digital, your stereo follows you from room
to room, and the lights are cued as you pull in the driveway. Well, we're not there yet. But we're close,
and if you're considering home networking, High Definition Television (HDTV), or any of a number of
other digital products and services, you need to tune into the new buzz in the electronics industry:
structured wiring. This bundle may look like a tangle of copper wire and spun glass cables but what it
represents is bandwidth. Structured wiring — a term that has migrated from the computer world into
the world of home electronics — can feed your home's ever-growing need for information-carrying
capacity. Before you know it, you'll be able to connect your laptop to your stove top, but in order to
take advantage of these innovations, you'll have to start thinking about wiring now.

The "bundle" consists of several different types of wiring to

accommodate —and anticipate—your communications needs

In the good old days of the 1990s, most signals coming into your home were in the form of analog
waves. Today most signals are currently sent in a digital form or will be shortly. Digital transmission is
the same language that a computer uses to talk to a printer. Given that all electronics are becoming little
computers, all of these pieces of equipment are beginning to talk digitally to each other. Once the
digital language becomes standard, then the discussion will quickly turn to speed and that is where
structured wiring comes in handy.

Specifically, a structured wire "bundle" consists of two RG6-Quad shield coaxial cables, two multi-
mode fiber optic lines and two Category 5 or 5E or 5plus communication cables. The coaxial cable is
the wire that connects our VCR to the television and can carry a variety of digital signals. HDTV and
cable modems currently use this wire in your home. Why two of these to each location? To allow
information to flow both in and out of your home, for additional information-carrying capacity if
needed. The fiber optic lines are actually the coolest "wires" in the bundle. They provide ultra-wide
bandwidth (meaning lots of digital stuff can move very quickly) and are more reliable than copper. You
don't see a lot of consumer electronics communicating via fiber optic, but as fiber optic prices go down,
their popularity will increase. In truth most media systems technologists would prefer that all digital
communication happen via fiber; it makes everything work more reliably. The Category 5
communication cable is used for your telephone, fax and computer hookups. A lot of tomorrow's
technology will use this wire since it's already in many of our homes.
 All of the wires connect to a central
hub that recalls an old telephone switch

Structured wiring radiates from a central hub in a star pattern through your home's walls so that each
outlet or jack has its own run of cable. (The National Electric Code (NEC) requires that it be installed
at least six inches away from the electrical wiring already in the walls.) If you are building or
renovating, wire your home for the future while the walls are open. Remember: wires are cheap but
pulling wires through a finished house is expensive. With that as a motto, have your installer run lots of
wires to lots of locations, even if you're not ready to use them all yet. Better yet, have your installer
install a metal conduit through which future cables can be snaked without ripping down walls. The
half-life of modern technology is ever shrinking, so the best you can do is think ahead.

Wall plates have multiple connections

Above all, don't let these new developments frighten you. They're actually fairly easy to understand and
will soon be useful in your home in the years to come.
Bringing In an Electrician

Don't cut corners on electrical work--hire a qualified electrician familiar with the type of work you
want done. Faulty wiring is a fire waiting to happen. That's reason enough to hire an experienced
electrician, but not the only one. Although wiring might seem like a black-and-white proposition —
either the light goes on or it doesn't — it's actually a vast interdependent network. Circuits that are
otherwise safe but poorly designed can damage appliance motors and electronic gear because they
deliver the wrong amperage. Lights on even partially overloaded circuits can flicker when an appliance
is in use, or the breaker may trip or the fuse might blow, shutting down the circuit entirely. Hiring an
experienced electrician can help you avoid these problems.

Finding a qualified electrician is easier than finding the right carpenter or plumber. You can assume a
certain level of competence when an electrician shows you his state license, but there are two degrees
of pro to consider. A master electrician has passed a standardized test and has at least two years of
experience under his belt. He knows the National Electrical Code and any modifications that your state
has made to it. He is qualified to plan, design, install and maintain an electrical system for your project.
A journeyman electrician hasn't qualified for a master's license, but he too is licensed by the state.
(Some states require journeymen electricians to work with a master electrician.) By law, he cannot
design systems but can install wiring and equipment.

There's another layer in the safety net. Most electrical work requires a permit issued by your local
building department. Before the building inspector can sign off on the work, the inspector must take a
look at it to see if it's up to code.

Picking the Right Pro

Electricians tend to specialize. Some concentrate on new construction, some just in commercial work
and some go only on service calls to fix dead outlets or faulty fixtures. Those who specialize in
remodeling have mastered techniques for wiring existing homes and additions, such as snaking wires
through finished walls, assessing the capacity of existing circuits and evaluating whether to install an
additional service panel (where the circuit breakers are) to handle increased power demands.

Most general contractors have a short list of dependable electricians, but if your contractor can't
recommend one, check with the local home- builders' association or an electrical- supply house in the
area for a recommendation. Be sure to tell them the type of work you are doing so they can properly
match the pro to the job.

When interviewing an electrician, ask to see a copy of his state license as well as proof of insurance.
Make sure both are current. An electrician working on a typical residential -remodeling job should
carry a minimum of $500,000 in liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage for himself
and his crew. If everything seems up to snuff, check references and look over a previous job.

Judging Work Quality

Though it takes a trained eye to spot an electrician's mistakes, you can eliminate some names from your
list based on the neatness of their work. As a rule, a job that isn't neat probably isn't safe. If you can get
access to a site, find a place where a number of wires run together, usually near the service panel.
Romex — the flat, white plastic-sheathed cable common to most residential wiring — should run to the
service panel in a neat, orderly way. If cables are crossed and jumbled, or if they droop from joist to
joist, the electrician is neither doing a methodical job nor exhibiting the care essential to wiring a home
safely. This is not nitpicking. Cables that merge at the service panel in an orderly way make it easier
for the electrician to match the cable with the correct circuit breaker.

In the living area, the cover plates on switches and outlets should be plumb and square to the wall and
lie flat against the face of the wall. If they don't, the electrician did not take the time to set the utility
box (the box behind the wall that holds the outlets or switches) squarely against the studs and the
proper distance back from the wall. If the work looks sloppy, go instead with an electrician who pays
closer attention to detail.

In many areas, homeowners pay a minimum of $30 per hour for a master who works alone, and at least
$55 per hour for a master and journeyman working as a team. These prices vary regionally.

Working With an Electrician

For large remodeling jobs, such as additions or whole-house renovations, electricians work from plans
generated by the designer or architect. The plans show outlet and switch locations and label fixture
types, such as fluorescent and incandescent. Often the electrical plans are drawn up long before you've
had a chance to pick the light fixtures, so you will have to supply your electrician with this information.

To avoid any confusion, find out when the electrician will need the fixtures. Then shop around to find
the products you want — but don't buy anything. Simply make a list of your choices, including the
manufacturer names, model numbers of products and where you saw the fixtures. Turn the list over to
the electrician and let him make the purchases. You probably won't save any money because
electricians, like most contractors, add a markup of 10 to 20 percent over what they pay. But since they
buy products and materials at a professional's discount, the final cost will be about the same as if you
had made the purchases yourself. The advantage is that the electrician assumes responsibility for
warranty issues, breakage, defective products, and missing parts. (This can save you from paying for a
journeyman to run to the store for a missing set screw, for example.) Plus, while shopping, the
electrician can evaluate the overall quality of your choices and wave you off low-quality or dangerous
items.

As for budgeting fixture cost, you'll be working from a lighting allowance when shopping. This is the
not-to-exceed dollar amount that you budgeted during planning for all your lighting needs. As with any
remodeling project, if you go over the allowance when shopping, your contractor will bill you for the
extra you've spent (the overage). If you stay under the allowance, you get that money credited back to
you. It's all your money to save or spend as you see fit, but when choosing fixtures, keep a running total
of costs and try to stay within your budget. Be sure to account for the cost of specialty light bulbs,
which are increasingly expensive. That way you'll avoid unpleasant surprises when it comes time to
pay the final bill.
Extension Cords

The right extension cord brings the plug to the project—safely. Whether you're dusting off the
heirloom ornaments to bring in the yuletide cheer or breaking out the light-up chili pepper garland for
this summer's backyard fiesta, consider leaving your old extension cords in the bottom of the box.
Those ratty brown wires with their cracked jackets and non polarized prongs may have helped you
string lights from gutter to gutter for 20 years now, but you’re lucky they haven't set the roof ablaze.
Old cords cause about 3,300 residential fires a year, usually because they’re damaged or overloaded.

New cords, though, are made tough, with outer jackets durable enough to resist water, wear, and cold
weather. The best ones bear the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) seal and use 16-gauge wire or thicker.
(The smaller the gauge number, the bigger the wire.) Fat 14-gauge cords can feed such hungry amp-
eaters as circular saws and leaf blowers, up to 50 feet from the receptacle.

So, before you even think about blowing up that inflatable Santa— or mixing that batch of margaritas
—get yourself one of these cords:

Raw Power Outlets Throughout

These colorful 14-gauge cords will deliver power With three receptacles spaced evenly along its 25-
under the most demanding conditions. The blue foot length, this 14-gauge, vinyl-jacketed cord
model has a synthetic rubber outer layer that stays makes it easy to distribute power to walkway
pliable down to 58 degrees below zero, a real lights or holiday displays.
asset if you have to keep an engine block warm. About $27; improvementscatalog.com
The green one also has a rubbery jacket that’s
exceptionally flexible and resistant to cracking.
The yellow cord boasts a light-up receptacle that
locks onto the plug, so you stay connected when
working on roofs or ladders.
Yellow, $45, colemancable.com
Green (FrogHide), $45, and
Blue (All Weather), $40, both at generalcable.com
 Calamari Connection
Reaching beyond the confines of a boxy power
strip, where the receptacles are never far enough
apart, Power Squid’s five tentacle-like cords make
plug-in access easy and protect electronics from
power surges.
About $27; powersentry.com
Built-In Breaker
This 12-gauge cable divides three ways at the
female end so it can handle a troika of tools. An
integral GFCI at the plug end instantly interrupts
the current if a ground fault occurs, a lifesaving
feature if you ever use a tool in wet or damp
conditions.
$45; colemancable.com

Coiled Up
With a phone-style spiral, this 16-gauge cord stretches out
to 10 feet in use, then collapses to 19 inches for storage.
The male end sits flat against the wall, so you can slide the
back of a workbench against it without crimping the cord.
About $23; generalcable.com

Decoding The Cord

The markings on the package offer information about the extension cord inside.
● AWG: American Wire Gauge. Wire diameter. The lower the number, the thicker the wire.
● W: Withstands wet and cold conditions outdoors.
● T: Thermoplastic/vinyl jacket. Inexpensive, but stiff in cold and more vulnerable than rubber.
● E: Elastomeric rubber jacket. Resists abrasion and stays flexible in cold.
● O: Oil-resistant. Safe for garage floors.
● SJ: Junior Service. Heavy-duty, rubber-insulated copper wire with a 300-volt capacity.
Limits on Length

The current-carrying capacity of an extension cord diminishes as it gets longer. For tools that draw 10
amps or less, a 16-gauge cord up to 100 feet long will suffice. But tools that use between 11 and 15
amps need at least a 14-gauge cord no more than 50 feet long. Here are sample minimum cord sizes for
some common tools:
● Circular saw (15 amps): 14 gauge
● Reciprocating saw (13 amps): 14 gauge
● Leaf blower (12 amps): 14 gauge
● Chain saw (10 amps): 16 gauge
● Lawn mower (8 amps): 16 gauge

Using Extension Cords: Staying Connected

The last thing you want when you’re up a ladder or on a roof is to have the extension cord come
unplugged. There are many devices you can buy to hold plugs together, but this simple method works
for me. I just line up the cords side by side, then tie them both in a loose overhand knot about a foot
from the ends, as shown at right. Now when you plug them together they’ll stay that way without
kinking the wires.

How to Coil a Cord

When you’re done using an extension cord, coil it up. It’s the best way to protect it from damage
during storage, and it’s easier to uncoil later. I’m not talking about wrapping it tightly around your
hand and elbow; that strains the cord’s wires and virtually guarantees you’ll have a snarl to untangle
the next time you need it. Here’s the method I use.

1. Knot. Using a bowline knot, tie a loop in one 2. Coil. Gather the extension cord into large coils.
end of a 2-foot-long lightweight line. Knot the Make each one from about 5 feet of cord.
other end permanently to one end of the extension 3. Hang. Wrap the line around the extension cord,
cord. then hang it from the loop, out of harm's way.
Extension Cord Caddy

Wrestling with a twisted extension cord can be a frustrating experience. Save your sanity and tame the
most obstinate cord with a homemade bucket caddy. You'll never wrestle with a long cord again after
you learn this neat trick

Take a 5-gallon plastic bucket and bore through its side near the bottom with a 2-inch-diameter hole
saw. Take the male end of the cord (the one with the three prongs) and feed it through the hole from
inside the bucket. Coil up the rest of the cord and put it into the bucket, but leave the female end of the
cord hanging out.

The next time you need to use the extension cord, simply set the bucket near an electrical outlet and
plug in the cord. Pull out as much cord as you need from the bucket and plug in your tool. When it’s
time to quit, just gather up the cord and stuff it back into the bucket.
10 Wiring Problems Solved

Remember: Anytime you work with wiring, be sure to turn off the circuit at the main breaker panel.

1. Over-lamping

What it means: A light fixture has a bulb with a higher wattage than the fixture is designed for.
Code violation? Yes.
Danger level: High. The bulb's intense heat can scorch or melt the socket and insulation on the
fixture's wires, which increases the risk of arcing — sparks that jump through the air from one wire to
another — a chief cause of electrical fires. The damage to socket and wires remains even after the
bulb has been removed.
Solution: Stay within the wattage limit listed on all light fixtures made since 1985. For older,
unmarked fixtures, use only 60-watt bulbs or smaller.

2. Uncovered junction box

What it means: Because a junction box houses the splices where wires are connected to one another,
a person could inadvertently damage the wires or get a shock.
Code violation? Yes.
Danger level: Minimal, as long as wires aren't within reach.
Solution: Spend a few cents to buy a new cover and install it with the screws provided.
3. Lights Flicker When It's Windy

What it means: Frayed wiring in the weatherhead (the outdoor fitting where overhead cables from
the power line come into the house) is causing a short whenever the cables move.
Code violation? No.
Danger level: High. Aside from the annoyance, the frayed wiring can arc and start a fire.
Solution: Contact the electric utility, which may replace the weatherhead at no charge.

4: Too Few Outlets

What it means: Heavy reliance on extension cords and power strips.

Code violation? No; grandfathered in. (Today's codes require receptacles within 4 feet of a doorway
and every 12 feet thereafter.)
Danger level: Minimal, as long as you use heavy-duty extension cords, 14-gauge or thicker. (The
thicker the wire, the lower the gauge number.) Undersized extension cords (16-gauge or smaller) can
overheat and ignite a fire if loads are too heavy.
Solution: Add more outlets. Expect to pay an electrician about $100 per first-floor outlet and double
that for second-floor work. (There will likely be a minimum charge.) This work requires cutting holes
in walls and ceilings to snake the wires. Some electricians will patch the holes; others leave the
patching to you.
5: No GFCIs

What it means: Increased risk of electrocution in wet areas, such as baths and kitchens. GFCIs
(ground-fault circuit interrupters) shut down circuits in 4 milliseconds, before current can cause a
deadly shock.
Code violation? No; grandfathered in. (Codes today require GFCIs within 4 feet of any sink and on
all garage, basement, and outdoor outlets.)
Danger level: High.
Solution: Replace old receptacles with GFCIs (about $12 each). This is a simple job that many
homeowners do themselves. Electricians charge about $20 per outlet. (There will likely be a minimum
job charge.) Note: As an alternative, GFCI breakers ($25) can be installed on the main panel. But then
every time one trips, you have to go down to the basement to reset it.

How GFCI Receptacles Keep You Safe

A ground fault happens whenever electricity escapes the confines of the wiring in an appliance, light
fixture, or power tool and takes a shortcut to the ground. When that short cut is through a human, the
results can be deadly. About 200 people in the U.S. alone die of ground faults each year, accounting for
two-thirds of all electrocutions occurring in homes. To prevent such accidents, Charles Dalziel, a
professor of electrical engineering at the University of California, invented the ground-fault circuit
interrupter (GFCI), in 1961. Most of the time, his invention does nothing; it just monitors the difference
in the current flowing into and out of a tool or appliance. But when that difference exceeds 5 milliamps,
an indication that a ground fault may be occurring, the GFCI shuts off the flow in an instant — as little
as .025 second.

GFCIs are required by the National Electric Code in all new kitchens, bathrooms, crawl spaces,
unfinished basements, and most outdoor receptacles. Owners of older houses can retrofit $10 GFCI
receptacles at those locations or have GFCI breaker switches (which run as much as $108 for 50-amp
models) mounted in the main breaker panel. Portable GFCI adapters, which plug into regular wall
receptacles, are available for about $40. GFCIs is that they protect you whether or not your wiring is
grounded. Because lightning and other power surges can damage a GFCIs delicate circuitry at any
time, Manufacturers recommend the following monthly test: Plug in a light fixture and turn it on. Then
push the device's test button. If the light stays on, the GFCI needs to be replaced.

6. Overwired panel

What it means: The panel contains more circuits than it's rated to handle, because too many single-
pole breakers (one circuit) have been replaced with tandem breakers (two circuits) in one slot.
(Tandem breakers aren't the same as high-amp double-pole breakers, which take up two slots with one
circuit.) A label on each panel specifies how many circuits the panel can accommodate.
Code violation? Yes.
Danger level: Minimal. It may become an issue when the house is being sold and an inspector looks
inside the panel.
Solution: Add a subpanel with a few extra slots ($250), or, if you're planning major home
improvements, replace the existing panel with a larger model ($500 to $800).
7. Aluminum wiring

What it means: You have a type of wiring, used in the 1960s and '70s as a cheap substitute for
copper, that is no longer considered safe.
Code violation? No; grandfathered in.
Danger level: High. Aluminum corrodes when in contact with copper, so connections loosen, which
can lead to arcing and fires.
Solution: Retrofit a dielectric wire nut approved for aluminum wire (a pair sells for less than $1) onto
each copper-aluminum connection in light fixtures. These nuts have a special grease that stops
corrosion while maintaining conductivity. Make sure any replacement switches and receptacles are
labeled AL-compatible. The possibility of an electrical fire is something to avoid at all costs. Call a
competent electrician to give you a bid on both making the existing system safer or rewiring
altogether.

8. Back-stabbed wires

What it means: On newer switches and receptacles, wires pushed in the back are more likely to come
loose than those anchored around screw terminals.
Code violation? No. The practice is allowed, even for new construction.
Danger level: It depends. At a minimum, loose wires can cause a receptacle or switch to stop
working. In the worst case, they can start a fire.
Solution: Check for back-stabbed connections by removing a switch or receptacle from its outlet box.
If one is back-stabbed, there are likely to be more. Release the wires and attach them to the
appropriate screw terminals on the receptacle.
9. Ungrounded (2-prong) receptacles

What it means: Your house's wiring has no way to safely conduct any stray current that escapes the
confines of the wires.
Code violation? No; grandfathered in. (Today's code requires grounded circuits and receptacles.)
Danger level: Minimal, as long as you don't use an adapter to fit a three-prong plug into a two-prong
receptacle. Doing so could destroy the device you're plugging in, and increase the chance of
electrocution.
Solution: Replace two-prong receptacles with properly grounded three-prong ones, if wiring allows it
(see Old Wiring: Is It Safe?. Also, test all existing three-prong receptacles with a GFCI circuit tester to
make sure they're grounded. Rewire any that aren't.

10. Plug falls out of receptacle

What it means: Worn contacts in receptacle no longer grip the prongs firmly.
Code violation? No.
Danger level: High. Loose contacts can cause arcing, which can ignite dry wood and dust.
Solution:Replace the old receptacles as soon as possible. (A new one costs about $2.) Many
homeowners feel comfortable doing this themselves. Electricians will charge about $8 or $10 per
outlet, although there's likely to be a minimum charge for small jobs.
Electrical Upgrades for DIYers

Wiring projects are not for everyone, but there are some basic upgrades most homeowners can handle.
Many homeowners who think nothing of tackling painting, carpentry and plumbing projects turn timid
when it comes to electrical work. A little fear isn't necessarily bad when dealing with electricity — it
could keep you from making a serious mistake. But that doesn't mean there aren't electrical projects
you can handle. All you need is an understanding of how the electrical code applies to your project and
some instruction on making proper wire connections. To facilitate your work, we've included
photographs that outline the basic steps and illustrations that show all the wiring connections. Consult
with an electrician if your home is wired differently than the ways illustrated.

Installing a Floodlight

Installing an exterior floodlight — the first of three three simple, do-it-yourself upgrades we'll be
covering — can be done on virtually any house.

Light up your life — or at least your backyard — with a floodlight. Our

installation solves a common problem: A deck without adequate lighting
for itself, a staircase, or the adjacent yard. The solution called for installing
a two-lamp floodlight ($12) high up on the house wall. As with most
electrical upgrades, this one relies on tapping into an existing circuit. If
you're not sure whether or not a circuit can support the upgrade, check
with an electrician. An overloaded circuit is a fire hazard.

If you're still not feeling confident, here's an alternate approach: Run

cables, install boxes, and wire in switches and outlets, then hire an
electrician to make the final power hookups and check for any code
violations. (Most municipalities allow you to do your own electrical work,
though you're never allowed to wire someone else's home.) Also, get the
proper permits from your local building department before starting. It's the
law, and you'll also get the benefit of having your work checked both at
the rough-in stage and when it's completed.

Before starting work, turn off the power at the main service panel. Plug a
lamp or circuit tester into the circuit you're working on to confirm the
power is off. Finally, if you have any questions or concerns, always
consult with a licensed electrician or building inspector before you
proceed. Electrical work isn't difficult, but the consequences for not doing
it right can be serious.

Choose a location for the floodlight on the outside of the house and bore a 1-inch-diameter hole
through the wall and into the attic. Next, pick a spot for the wall switch that will operate the floodlight.
The best location is directly above an existing wall outlet near the door that leads outside. Pull the wall
outlet from its box but don't disconnect it (the power should be off now). Push a snake up inside the
wall to make sure there aren't any obstructions. Then, cut a switch hole into the wall about 34 inches
above the outlet.
 1. Move into the attic and bore a hole through the top wall plate
directly above the switch location on the floor below. Use the snake to
pull 12/2 nonmetallic sheathed electrical cable up from the new wall
switch location on the first floor into the attic. The plastic-encased,
three-wire cable, better known by the trade name Romex, costs about
$10 for a 25-foot roll.

2. Bore a large hole through the exterior house wall at the desired
location of the floodlight. Thread the cable through the holes in the attic
floor joists, up the wall and out the light fixture hole.

3. Screw the outlet box on the floodlight to the house, then connect the
light fixture to the cable making sure to join the same-colored wires
(white to white, black to black, as shown above). Also, be certain to
secure the bare copper wire to the grounding screw inside the outlet box
on the fixture.

4. After pulling the existing outlet from its box, snake a new cable
down from the wall switch hole above. The cable descending from the
floodlight also comes into the switch hole. Bore 5/8-inch-diameter
holes in the attic floor joists and thread the cable through the holes, up
the house wall, and out the hole at the floodlight location. Now go
downstairs and pull a piece of new cable from the existing wall outlet
up to the new switch hole. Attach the two black (hot) wires to the
switch, as illustrated, and then join the two white (neutral) wires with a
twist-on connector. Finally, join the two bare wires with a "greenie," a
wire connector with a hole in its end. Snip one of the bare wires several
inches longer than the other. Slip the greenie over the long wire and
twist together the two bare wires. Then, secure the long pigtail wire
protruding out of the greenie to the grounding screw on the switch.

5. Install a single-pole switch ($1) to operate the floodlight. Make the

final wire connections at the existing wall outlet. Attach the two black
wires to the dark-colored terminal screws on the right side of the outlet
and the two white wires to the light-colored screws on the left side of
the outlet. Join the bare ground wires in a greenie and connect that lead
to the ground screw on the outlet.

Code Reminders
• Switches and outlets must be properly grounded.
• Twist-on wire connectors must be used for all standard wire connections.
 • When boring through wood framing for electrical cable, the edge of the hole must be at least 1
1/4 inch from the nearest edge. If not, each hole must be protected by a 1/16-inch-thick metal
plate.

Add outlets in the garage to get the power where you need it

If you're tired of stringing an extension cord across the garage every time you want to vacuum out the
car or belt-sand a board, install a new wall outlet, or duplex receptacle. According to the National
Electrical Code, all garage-wall outlets must be GFCI outlets or standard outlets protected by GFCI
circuit breakers.

In our garage, we tapped into a ceiling outlet to provide power to the

new wall outlet. We ran 1/2-inch-diameter, thin-wall metal tubing, or
conduit, across the ceiling and down the wall. (Conduit is sold in
various lengths for about 20 cents per linear foot; it's also referred to
as EMT, for electrical metallic tubing.) To bend conduit, electricians
use a simple hand tool called a conduit bender. We took the easy way
out and bought preformed 90-degree conduit elbows ($2 each).

Once the conduit is installed in your garage, push three 12-gauge,

single-strand copper wires (25 cents per foot) through the tubing.
There should be one white wire, one black wire, and one green
grounding wire. At the end of the conduit, install a 4-inch-square
metal box ($2.30) and two duplex outlets. As the illustration shows,
one of the outlets is a GFCI, or ground-fault circuit interrupter outlet
($10), the other a standard grounded outlet ($2); they're wired so
ground-fault protection is provided for both. Note that one white wire
goes from the top, left-side terminal screw on the standard outlet to
the top, left-side "load" terminal on the GFCI.
The black wire takes a similar route from the top, right-side terminal
screw on the standard outlet to the top, right-side "load" terminal on
the GFCI. The long, continuous ground wire runs from the metal box
to the GFCI and then to the outlet.

1. After removing the outlet from the garage ceiling, screw an

extension ring ($1.50) to the existing box. Also, remove the
knockout plug in the end of the ring for attaching the conduit
2. Use metal pipe hangers and toggle bolts to hold the conduit to
the drywall ceiling. Push the spring-loaded toggle up through a
hole; tighten the screw to secure the hanger.

3. Push the conduit up into the hangers, then slide it into the
extension ring. Thread a machine screw into each hanger and
tighten it to hold the conduit firmly in place.

4. Use a preformed conduit elbow to turn the corner where the

conduit runs parallel with the wall. Join the elbow to the two
straight conduit pieces with slip-on connectors.

5. To mount the metal receptacle box to the concrete-block wall,

drill three holes in the wall and insert plastic anchors. Slide the
box onto the conduit and screw it to the wall.
 6. After the conduit is installed, push single-strand copper wires
into the extension ring and through the conduit until they appear
at the receptacle box mounted to the wall.

7. Fasten the two outlets to the cover plate, then screw the plate to
the box. The standard outlet on the left is wired to the GFCI outlet
on the right; both are ground-fault protected.

Code Reminders
• Conduit connectors must be used to secure thin-wall conduit to metal boxes.
• Garage-wall receptacle outlets must be protected by a GFCI at the outlet or by ground-
fault circuit interrupters in the main service panel. All metal boxes must be properly
grounded.

Upgrading outlets to GFCI

Ground-fault circuit interrupter outlets prevent accidental electrocution, and code requires them in
baths, kitchens, laundry rooms, garages and outdoor locations. A GFCI has a built-in circuit breaker
that interrupts the flow of electricity the instant it senses a ground fault or current leak. But a GFCI
won't work unless it's properly connected. If your electrical system has not been upgraded for 20 years
or more, you probably need to install GFCIs.

First, turn off the power to the circuit you'll be working on.
Take off the cover plate and unscrew the outlet from the box.
Disconnect the wires and remove the old outlet. At the back of
the GFCI are screw terminals marked "load" and "line." The
single screw at the bottom is the grounding screw. Attach both
the black and white wires to the screw terminals on the line
side. Fasten the black wire to the dark-colored screw and the
white wire to the light-colored screw. Again, make sure that
both wires are on the "line" side.
Wrap the bare copper wire around the grounding screw and
tighten it. Neatly tuck the wires into the box, screw the outlet in
place and replace the cover plate. Finally, check the GFCI by
pressing the "test" (power off) and "reset" (power on) buttons.
 Step 1: After turning off the electricity to the kitchen at the main
service panel, remove the cover plate and unscrew the duplex
outlet from the existing cable inside the box.

Step 2: Install the new ground-fault circuit interrupter outlet by

attaching both the black and white wires to the "line" side of the
outlet. Connect the bare wire to the grounding screw. Replace the
cover plate, then check to make sure the GFCI is operating
properly. Press the test button; the outlet should go dead. Reset to
resume current flow.

Code Reminders
• All counter-top receptacle outlets must be protected by a GFCI device installed at the outlet or
by GFCI circuit breakers.
• A kitchen must have two 20-amp circuits for counter-top appliances.
• There should be counter-top receptacles installed so that no point along the counter is more than
2 ft. from an outlet.