Pharaoh's Pyramids Quilt

Hi, Em here from Em's Scrapbag, so thrilled to be back sharing another recipe. Being the mother of three sons, I'm
always on the look out for fabrics and patterns that lend themselves well to all things masculine. I'm also a big fan
of Malka and have been thrilled that Moda has taken her fabric and mass produced it. So when I saw her new line
I knew I had to design a quilt using it. My oldest son, Alex, is studying engineering and recently he had to construct
a bridge out of nothing but Popsicle sticks and wood glue. Did you know that a triangle is the strongest
shape structurally? Well it is. I guess seeing his bridge sparked and idea for a quilt. Using Simple Marks, Color
Splash Batiks, and lots of triangles Pharaoh's Pyramids was born.

1- Color Splash Batiks jelly roll

1- Simple Marks jelly roll
4 yards background (23210 31)
1/2 yard binding (2321031)
5 yards backing
90"x 90" batting
A 60* ruler

Cut your background fabric into 18- 6 1/2" strips the width of fabric. Open your jelly rolls. Mix and match your strips
into 18 sets of 3.
Using your 60* ruler sub cut each of your strips into 10 triangles
Repeat this process with the background strips.

Starting with a background triangle place a strip triangle along pieced side. Make sure that the point of your
triangle extends 1/4" past the end of previous triangle as shown in picture. This ensures that you have a straight
edge as you make your row. Repeat this process until you have used 11 strip triangles and ended with a
background triangle.
On alternate rows you will start and end with a strip triangle and use 11 background triangles.
Continue until you have made 15 rows total.
Sew your rows together. Next line up your ruler on inside points of the rows. Trim
Sandwich and quilt as desired. I simply quilted a 1/4" away from all the seams on either side.
One Pharaoh's Pyramid quilt structurally sound and ready to keep that strong man of yours toasty warm.
Measures approximately 82" x 90"
Emily Bailey
60-Minute Gift: Herringbone Hot Pads
Combine a herringbone pattern with the popular zig zag for a fun, unique pot holder and trivet that is self binding.
Or use the blocks to make a quilt! Great for Christmas gifts, teacher gifts and using up extra charm packs!

 1 Simply Color charm pack or charm pack of your choice

 1 yard of fabric for backing or four 14x14 inch squares
 1/2 yard batting or eight 10x10 inch squares
 1/2 yard insul-bright Insulating material or four 10x10 inch squares

I'm so excited to be here! I've been making these hot pads like crazy! You can hop over to my blog, Melanie
Dramatic, to see several other examples in various Moda lines along with a few other ideas of what you can do with
this design!

You'll start with one charm pack! (I cut down a layer cake to 5-inch squares since that's what I had!)
Cut your charm pack into 1 1/2 inch strips. From one charm pack you'll get 3 'sets' of strips.
I prefer to use one set at a time while sewing. Set two groups aside and sort the first stack by color. Having them
sorted into color groups helps me make sure I'm evenly distributing the colors and patterns throughout!

Now it's time to start sewing strips together using a 1/4 inch seam.
Alternating sides, continue to add strips. (I finger press the seams down toward the bottom of the 'V' as I
sew....although getting up to iron each seam during the process would be better exercise...)

Continue sewing until your first stack is gone! You'll have a really fun, colorful, long herringbone strip!
Iron the seams down (toward the bottom of the 'V').
Square the top and cut two 11-inch sections. (You will have left over. Save that to start sewing your next strip
set.) Our hot pads will be 10 inches, but that little bit of extra length allows you to perfectly match seams.

Next you will trim off the extra on each side. You want each rectangle to be 5 1/2 inches x 11 inches. I match up
the 2 1/2 inch mark on my ruler with the bottom/right 'V' for the first cut. Then I rotate and cut the block to 5 1/2
inches width.
Pin your rectangles together at each seam. Seams will all face down. Do not worry about lining up the top and
bottom. Getting the seams to mach is more important! Sew together with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.

Press center seam allowance open.

Trim your block to 10 inches x 10 inches.

You'll need one 14x14inch piece of fabric for the back, two 10x10 inch squares of batting and one 10x10 inch
square of Insul-bright insulation. It is a lot of layers, but I really like the extra sturdy feel this gives the hot pad - plus
with the Insul-bright and extra batting, I'm not afraid to pull something out of the oven! (If you're going to use it
solely for decoration, you could use one or two layers of batting only.)

Place the Insul-bright in between the two layers of batting and pin all layers together. Spray basting also works well
to hold everything in place.
Quilt as desired. I love the look of following the seams with my 1/4 inch foot.

Carefully even batting and top layers ONLY if needed with scissors. Next cut off the excess backing fabric so it is
1-inch larger than the top on each side. The unit will measure 12x12.
Fold and iron the extra inch of backing fabric in half so that it meets up with the raw edge of your hot pad. Then
fold again to the top of the hot pad and secure in place. (I was using bobby pins at this point but my new favorite
method is using school glue to hold fabric in place. Simply set with a hot dry iron!)
Fold your corner diagonally so that it meets with the raw edge of the next side. Then continue by folding that edge
in half and then again up onto the hot pad, just as you did on the first side. Continue working your way around the
hot pad until all four sides are ready to sew.
Sew binding in place. Get your stitching as close to the inside edge of the binding as you can. And if you're using
bobby pins or other gadgets to hold the binding in place, please be sure to remove them as you sew! (If you switch
to glue, you won't have to worry about that anymore!)
One charm pack will make four hot pads. (Use your left over strip to start sewing another set for more hot pads!)
And don't forget to come over to my blog to see them made in other Moda fabrics and a few other projects I've
made with these fun blocks! I have to say, I'm sorta in love with the quilt. :-)

-Melanie
Little Rays of Sunshine Quilt
Wow! I can't believe I've completed my very first Bake Shop project! I've enjoyed this new adventure and I must
thank the encouraging Jo of Jo's Country Junction for nudging me into this creative outlet. This quilt I originally
designed for the Quilt Minnesota shop hop in 2009. After a little tweaking, I've stumbled upon Little Rays of
Sunshine. This little sweetie reminds me of that time of day when the sun comes in the window just right and you
can't help but take a minute to smile :) Enjoy and I hope to be back with more!
To make one 62" x 70" quilt:
1 California Girl Jelly Roll
2 1/2 Yards background
1/2 Yards Binding (2 1/2" binding needs 17 1/2")
4 Yards Backing (back to measure 72" x 80")
60 degree Creative Grids ruler or comparable

From background fabric, cut 13 - 6 1/2" width of fabric (approx 42") strips.

From your 40 Jelly Roll strips, select 13 groups of 3 strips.

Sew these groupings together to create 13 strip sets like this:

 Now for cutting the triangles.

Cut each strip set like this:

1) Trim the salvage off one end

2) Lay template on strip set positioning as shown here.

Make sure the flat point is lined up even with the top edge of your strip set!!!

3) Cut end segment, flip template over and make another cut lining up flat part
 once again with edge of strip set.

4) Flip template over again and make another cut.

5) Keep flipping and cutting….

6) Until you get to the end...then trim selvedge.

 7) Turn over so wrong side is up and cut another end segment
that is the opposite of the one created at the beginning of the strip!

8) Each strip will yield…. 2 end triangles and 9 full triangles.

Repeat with remaining 12 strip sets to yield a total of:

13 Right ends
13 Left ends
117 Middle triangles
Cutting the background strips
Using your 13 - 6 1/2" x width of fabric strips and your 60 degree template, cut background triangles the exact
same way as you did your strip sets. Once again, yeild 13 right ends, 13 left ends, and 117 middle triangles.

Now it's time to piece into rows!

When piecing background triangles and strip triangles together, lay right sides together.
The flat point should line up with a pointy point.

Tip: I pinned the beginning and the end so that my pieces didn't pull funny and end up stretched!
 Make 6 rows like this:

Make 6 rows like this:

Assembly time:
Now arrange your beautiful rows out in a pleasing manner and sew together like this:
 Congratulations! Your top is complete!

Quilt and bind as desired.

Quilted by Mary Nordeng of Pieceful Settings - Rose Creek, Minnesota

Completed quilt measures 62" X 70"

Katie Zenk
{www.calicohutch.blogspot.com}

Geese In The Park

Hello, my friends! It's KarrieLyne from Freckled Whimsy bringing you another quilt tutorial! I have so much fun
putting these together for you. I hope you enjoy them just as much as I do! :)

When I saw Kate Spain's new line, Central Park, I knew I had to make a quilt with it. This line is themed around
nature, so what better block to use than a flying geese block? I came up with a design using a unique placement of
the flying geese to create a diamond effect, or if you'd rather, a zig zag effect.
Also, my good friend Leah over at Burgundy Buttons is offering this as a kit at a special price just for you!! Click
HERE to get yours! Also, speaking of Kate Spain...you'll never guess!! She has specially designed a quilt label just
for this kit!! {{insert me excitedly jumping up and down!!}} So, hurry on over before they are all gone!

Enjoy.... Geese In The Park

What you will need to get started:

1 Layer Cake - Central Park

1 Layer Cake - White
1 1/2 yards of (27070 14) for border & binding
1 1/4 yard (27065 14) for 2nd border
4 1/2 yards of (27066 14) for backing
**Please read through the entire tutorial before beginning.

**All seam allowances are 1/4".

**Blocks will finish at 8" x 4". (8.5" x 4.5" unfinished)

Cutting:
1. Choose 27 printed Layer Cake (LC) pieces. We need to trim these to 9 1/4" square.

2. Using a ruler that is larger than your LC square, line up the top and right edge of your ruler with the top and right
edge of the LC piece so that only about 1/8" of the LC is showing. We just want to trim off the pinked edges.

3. Trim the edges on the top and the right.

4. Rotate your LC piece 180 degrees so that the top right corner is now at the bottom left corner. Your straight
edges will now be on the left and bottom. Using your ruler, measure a square that is 9 1/4".

5. Cut your 9 1/4" square. Discard the scraps.

6. Repeat steps 2-5 for each of the remaining 26 LC printed squares. Set these aside for now.

7. Gather 27 of the white LC pieces. We need to trim these to yield four - 4 7/8" squares per LC piece.
**Note: If you want to cut these from yardage, you will need 108 squares measuring 4 7/8".

8. Start by trimming the left edge of your LC. Trim just enough to cut off the pinked edges, creating a straight edge.
Be careful not to trim too much or you won't have enough fabric to cut 4 squares.

**Note: I cut 3 LC pieces at a time to make this step go faster.

9. Now measure over 4 7/8" with your ruler and make your cut.

10. Carefully slide the right stack over about 1/4". Using this newly cut edge, measure over 4 7/8" and cut.
11. Carefully rotate the stacks you just cut. We need to sub cut these into 4 7/8" squares.

12. Trim the edge off again. Just enough to cut the pinked edge off. Not too much. We just want to establish a
straight edge.

13. Measure over 4 7/8" and cut.

14. Carefully move the stack on the right over about 1/4". Using this newly cut edge, measure over 4 7/8" and cut.
Repeat for other strip.

15. Each LC piece will yield 4 squares measuring 4 7/8". You will need a total of 108 of these squares.
Making the blocks:
1. For each printed LC piece, you will need 4 of the 4 7/8" white squares. This combination will make 4 flying
geese blocks.

2. You will need to draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each of your squares measuring 4 7/8".

Place two of these on your 9 1/4" printed LC square as shown below. Be sure to line up all your edges, and your
drawn lines should meet. Pin in place.
3. Sew 1/4" on both sides of your drawn line.

4. Cut on that drawn line.

5. Press to the white triangles. Yields two heart shaped thingies :)

6. Place another 4 7/8" square on the end of each of these heart shaped thingies. Making sure the drawn line
begins at the point of the printed LC and falls between the two triangles. Pin in place.
7. Sew 1/4" on either side of the drawn line on each piece.

8. Cut on drawn lines.

9. Press to the white triangles. Yield 4 flying geese! :)

10. Something to watch when making flying geese like these. If you have a directional print, they are going to be a
bit wonky. Personally I didn't mind, but if you do, this is how they will turn out. (The trees are all in one direction on
the print.)
11. Repeat steps 2-9 for the remaining 26 LC pieces.

12. Chain piecing during steps 3 and 7 will make this process much much faster!

13. Once you have all your flying geese blocks made (you need 105 blocks but will have some extra using this
method), arrange them 7 blocks by 15 blocks.

The block in the top left, the point of the "goose" should face down, the next block it will face up, and so on. The
next row will be the opposite. Repeat for all 15 rows, arranging your blocks in a pleasing order.

14. Once you have them arranged how you like, sew the blocks into rows, making sure to press each row in
opposite directions so the seams will nest when you sew the rows together.
15. Sew the rows together.

16. Cut from the purple fabric, 8 strips measuring 2.5" x WOF (width of fabric) for your first border. Attach in your
preferred method.

17. From the border print, cut 8 strips measuring 4.5" x WOF for your second border. Attach in your preferred
method.

18. All that is left is for you to sandwich your quilt, baste, quilt, and bind it. Oh, and don't forget to throw it in the
wash so it gets all smooshy! :D

19. If you want a completely different look, follow the same instructions, but where I use white, use a print, and
where I use a print, use white. This will give you white diamonds and the zig zags will be in the prints. :)
This quilt will measure about 68" x 72" (before washing). Isn't it cute? :D

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! If you make this quilt, please oh please share it with me? You can email a
photo of it to me HERE or you can add it to my Flickr Group HERE. I would love to feature them on my blog! :)

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

KarrieLyne
{freckledwhimsy.com}

Summer Dreamin'
Hi there! It's me again, Kaye from Miss Print! I'm so happy to be back here at the Bake Shop with my second
tutorial. It's getting pretty cold here in many parts of the northern hemisphere, so why not make a quilt to remind
yourself of the beautiful colours and warm evenings of summer? This is a quilt to snuggle, cuddle, and dream
under.

2 layers cakes - I used Dream On by Urban Chiks

1 bella solids layer cake - I used Snow
4 7/8 yards for backing - I used Groovy in Blue Moon from Dream On
7/8 yard for binding - I used Old School in Grass from Dream On

Select 20 squares from each of your Dream On layer cakes - the 20 squares from each layer cake should be
matching, as you will need 2 matching printed squares to complete each block. You will also need 40 of the
squares from your solid layer cake for a total of 80 layer cake squares.

Divide your layer cake squares into piles containing your two matching printed squares and two solid squares -
these four squares will be the basis for each block.

The following directions are for one block:

On the backside of each solid square, draw a line down the middle from each point (i.e. top right point to bottom left
point, and top left point to bottom right point) so that you have an X traversing the whole of the square.
Pair up one solid square and one printed square right sides together. On both sides of the lines you just drew, sew
a 1/4" seam.
Now it's time to cut your square - this will yield 8 half square triangles (HSTs):

Do not cut down your diagonal lines quite yet. Cut your square in half so that you are left with two 10x5" pieces.

Now cut each 10x5" piece in half so that you are left with four 5x5" pieces.

Cut down the diagonal line on each 5x5" square. Press your seams toward the printed fabric.
Repeat with your remaining solid and printed square. Each finished HST should measure 4.5" square (trim if
necessary).

Lay out your 16 HSTs as shown in the picture below.

Sew your HSTs together row by row.

Sews the rows together to form your block. Look at that... your block is done! Your block should now measure 16.5"
square (to finish at 16" square).
Repeat the above steps with the rest of your block piles.

Lay your blocks out in a 4x5 grid and sew into rows. Now sew your rows together and your quilt top is done!

Sandwich, baste, quilt, bind and you're done!

Finished quilt will measure 64x80".

Since there are enough printed layer cake squares left to make a second quilt (obviously you will need to double
the rest of the ingredients), why not swap squares with a friend so that you can each make two quilts but with
different fabrics? Or get a little funky and incorporate some of your extra squares into a pieced back? I'm sure you
won't be short on ideas for how to use that awesome leftover yumminess!

Kaye Prince
Flying Kimonos

The Japanese have many beautiful traditions one of which is the art of Sashiko. I found a Sashiko pattern that
looked like little arrowheads and adapted it to make a quilting block. The following quilt showcases one placement
of the block to make a very colourful lap quilt using Modern Workshop by Oliver + S. Liesl Gibson has painted a
palette of vibrant hues and subtle designs which made it so much fun to make these Kimonos Fly.

1 x Modern Workshop Jelly Roll

2 yards of main border fabric (use length to cut borders)
1.25 yard Moda Bella Solid - Chocolate 9900 41
1.75 yard Moda Bella Solid - Moda U Brown 9900 71

The instructions are for a 9 block layout. With careful planning and cutting you can make 12 blocks from one Jelly
Roll.

These blocks while they look complex, are quite simple to make. The block is constructed using a strip piecing
method cut at 45 degrees. There are three main rules to follow when making these blocks.

1. Consistency in your seams. Keep an accurate 1/4" throughout.

2. Do not stretch your fabric or pieces. I use spray starch to stabilise my fabrics. I only press my piecing. Do
not use steam. Only press a section when complete. This will avoid over pressing.
3. Most importantly, always cut your completed strip sets at 45 degrees using the middle seam as a point of
reference. If you cut your strips accurately and consistently, they will fit together perfectly when sewing the
rows together.
Planning

Each block will consist of 17 separate fabrics for the arrowheads, one orange print kimono, one brown print kimono
tail, and dark brown kimono tail and sleeve.

 Select two (2) brown strips and two orange strips (2) from your Jelly Roll. These will be your Kimono
fabrics.

 Cut 4 x 2.5" strips WOF from dark brown solid for Kimono tails and sleeves.

 Select 34 different fabrics from the Modern Workshop Jelly Roll. Each strip set will yield five (5) to six (6)
strips blocks. For this tutorial, we will only use nine (9) in total.

 Cut the strips in half to yield 2 x approximately 22" strips.

 Set 1 - Five blocks

Set 2 - Four blocks

 Make a line drawing of this block and cut a snippet of each fabric and glue or pin to drawing. This will help
you organise your strip sets.
Remember to place the dark brown solid, brown, and orange prints in the positions below. These form the
Kimonos.

Placement of Fabrics for the Kimono Pattern

  Layout your strip sets in rows and sew together. Stagger your strips 2" from top or bottom depending on
the orientation of the rows. (See diagram below).

 Press open Seams.

 Cut the strip sets into rows 2" wide at a 45 degree angle.

The rows must be cut at a 45 degree angle. There is a marking on most rulers. I used a 6.5" squaring ruler to
achieve my 45 degree orientation. I placed the centre line of the ruler on the middle seam and then butted another
ruler up against it. Reverse this process to cut the opposite direction.
 When you have cut all strip sets into rows, lay them as shown below. You will need to cut nine (9) left
diamonds and nine (9) right diamonds to add to the ends from the dark brown fabric.
 Sew each row together staring from the left. The intersecting seams should fit snuggly together. Pin well
and slow down when you come to each seam intersection. Press open your seams when block is
completed.

 Cut block - Your finished block should be 12 1/2". When you cut each block, make sure you place the 45
degree angle of your squaring ruler down the centre and cut each block exactly the same.
Adding the Sashing

 Cut 1" strips WOF from the lighter brown solid.

 Cut six (6) strips the width of your block - 12 1/2"
 Layout your blocks so the Kimonos all lay in the one direction.
 Sew the sashing strips to the top of two (2) blocks and join to make a row of three. Press seams outward.

 Repeat to make two more rows of three (3) blocks.

 Measure across your sets of three finished blocks. Take the average of the two measurements and cut two
(2) x 1" strips of the lighter brown solid to make the sashing to join the rows. Sew together making sure the
sashing intersections all align. Press seams outward.

Adding the borders

Border 1

 Measure across the centre of the quilt. Using 2" strips of the lighter brown solid, sew to top and bottom.
 Measure from top to bottom of quilt and add 2" border strips to sides of quilt.
Border 2

 Measure across the centre of the quilt. Cut 1" strips of dark brown solid and 6 1/2" strips of main border
fabric. Sew 1" dark brown solid strip to main border fabric. Sew to top and bottom of quilt.
 Measure from top to bottom of quilt and sew a 1" dark brown solid strip to main border fabric and sew left
and right borders.

Binding and Quilting

 Make sure quilt is square.

 Cut 2 1/2" strips of the dark brown solid and make double fold binding.
 Sew binding to quilt.
 Quilt as desired. I have machine quilted this project using an all over pattern.

Block size 12 1/2"

Quilt Size 54" x 54"

One colourful lap quilt.

These are alternative block layouts, which would look fabulous in any of the beautiful fabrics designed for Moda,
especially their Bella solid range.
Jane Davidson
Sew Simple Star Pincushion

Hi everyone! I'm Kimber from Heirlooms by Ashton House blog here to share my first project for the Moda Bake
Shop. While trying to jazz up the traditional LeMoyne Star pattern for a quilt project one day, I came up with this
whimsical star pincushion design. I chose the bright and cheerful Summer House fabrics by Lily Ashbury, which
remind me of my garden in the summertime. This would make a great addition to your sewing room or a fitting gift
idea for your sewing friends. After all, who can't use another colorful pincushion?

• 5 Layer Cake squares per pincushion (I used two each of two contrasting fabrics for mine, plus a third
coordinating one for the button)
• 1/4 yard total of two different pom-pom trims
• One 7/8"-diameter cover button kit (you will need to make two buttons)
• Polyester fiberfill or filling of your choice
• Template plastic
• Diamond template (included in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post)
• Long doll needle
• Perle 5 cotton

1. Print the template (included in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post). Be sure to print it with "no
scaling" or your template will be the wrong size (the template's dimensions are approximately 2¾" x 6½"). Then trace the
diamond template on to the template plastic and cut it out on the line. The template includes a 1/4" seam allowance.
2. Place the template on the wrong side of a Layer Cake square and trace around it. For one pincushion, you will need eight
diamonds from one fabric and eight diamonds from a contrasting fabric. You can fit six templates on one Layer Cake and you
will need an additional Layer Cake square of the same fabric to trace an additional two templates. Repeat this step for the
contrasting fabric.

3. Cut out each template. You will need a total of 16 for one pincushion.
4. Lay out the diamonds in a star design. You will need two stars—one for the front and one for the back.

5. With right sides together, sew two diamonds of contrasting fabrics.

6. Continue sewing diamonds together until you have a total of four of them.

7. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 to create a second half star. Then piece the two halves together to create a star.
8. Repeat Steps 5-7 to create a second star, leaving an approximately 2 inch opening in the center for stuffing the
pincushion later. Backstitch at the stopping and starting points to stabilize the stitches for stuffing.

9. With right sides together, layer the two pieced stars so that like fabrics are on top of each other.
10. Pin the two pieced stars together. Using a ¼” seam allowance, sew around the entire perimeter of the star.

11. To create nice, sharp star points, clip the outer points. With all the points in this pincushion, it's important to clip
for a smooth finish!
12. Clip the inner points so they will lay nice and flat when you turn the pincushion right side out.

13. Turn the pincushion right side out. Gently push the harder-to-reach outer star points out with a pointed yet blunt
object.
14. Starting with the star points and working your way toward the center, stuff the pincushion firmly with polyester
or your choice of filling. Then slipstitch the opened closed. It doesn't matter if your center point matches perfectly
because it will be covered with a button later!

15. Following the instructions on your cover button kit, cover two buttons with a coordinating fabric.
16. Using a long doll needle and Perle 5 cotton, sew the two buttons to the center of the pincushion. Tufting puts a
lot of tension on the thread and I find that Perle 5 cotton works better for this task than regular sewing thread
because it's stronger.

17. Trim eight balls off the pom-pom trim of your choice.
For my pincushion, I used two contrasting colors of trims.

18. Sew the pom-poms to the tips of the star points.

19. Fill your pincushion with pins and enjoy! You can make a colorful galaxy of star pincushions with the cheerful
palette of Summer House fabric. Here are just a few color combos.
2 Layer Cakes will make 21 pincushions with fabric scraps to spare for other projects. They're so easy to make that
you'll want to create some for your sewing friends, too!

Thanks for joining me and I hope you enjoyed my first tutorial for the Moda Bake Shop. I love making pincushions
and have designed several over the years. To see more of my designs and my creative adventures, stop by my
blog. And if you decide to make some of these fun pincushions, I'd love to see them. Please feel free to contact me
at the email link on my blog.

Happy stitching!
Garden Party

Hi! This is Kim and I am back with 3 fun projects to share with you. This tutorial will be for a table runner, wall
hanging and lap quilt. These are all done using triangles, but you don't have to mark them. It's all rotary cutting.

All fabrics are from Sandy Gervais' Lovely Collection. Instructions are given for 3 sizes. The quantities for the wall
hanging and lap quilt are in parentheses.

Finished block size: 9"

1 Fat Quarter Bundle - Sandy Gervais Lovely.

You'll need:
8 background prints
8 yellow prints
8 blue prints

Additional fabrics for the following:

Table runner - 21"x 39"

1st Border: 1/4 yd. Lovely Sandys Solid Leaf #7521-436

2nd Border: 1/2 yd. Lovely Berry Vine Daffodil #17580-14
Binding: 1/4 yd. Lovely Spring Rain #7572-436
Backing: 7/8 yd. Lovely Dots Rain #17577-13

Wall hanging - 39" Square

1st Border: 3/8 yd. Lovely Swirl Rain #17579-13
2nd Border: 5/8 yd. Lovely Floral Garden Daffodil #17571-14
Binding: 3/8 yd. Lovely Sandys Solid Rain #7521-433
Backing: 1 1/4 yds. Lovely Floral Garen Babies Breath #17571-11

Lap Quilt - 59" x 68"

1st Border: 1/2 yd. Lovely Swirl Leaf #17579-16

2nd Border: 1 1/4 yd. Lovely Floral Garden Rain #17571-13
Binding: 1/2 yd. Lovely Dots Daffodil #17577-14
Backing: 4 1/4 yds. Lovely Circle Flower Rain #17574-13

Cutting Instructions
Press all fat quarters and trim sides even before cutting.

Cut the following for the quilt block assembly. Stack the fabric strips to make cutting faster.

8 background prints - Cut 1 (3, 8) 4 1/4" strips, cut into 3 (9, 30) 4 1/4" squares.
Cut each square on both diagonals to make 4 quarter triangles.

Cut 2 (4, 12) 3 7/8" strips, cut into 6 (18, 60) 3 7/8" squares.
Cut each square once on the diagonal.
When making larger quilts or all the projects use leftover strips to get the quantity desired.
8 yellow prints - Repeat cutting instructions as background prints.
8 blue prints - Repeat cutting instructions as background prints.

Stack the triangles by size and color.

Borders and Binding

1st Border - 3 (4, 6) 2 1/2" strips WOF

2nd Border - 3 (4) 4 1/2" strips WOF

(8) 5 1/2" strips for lap quilt WOF

Binding - 3 (5, 7) 2 1/4" strips WOF

Block Assembly

Sewing the center square. Take one small blue and one small yellow triangle, sew them together following images
below. Sew a total of 3 (9, 30) center squares. Set aside.
Sew each large blue and yellow triangles to a background triangle to make half square triangles. You should have
6 ( 18, 60) blue half square triangles and the same amount for the yellow half square triangles.
Sew the small yellow and background triangles together (6, 18, 60).
Repeat for the small blue and background triangles (6, 18, 60).
Sew the quarter square triangles to each blue and yellow triangle.
Sew the block together following the image below. Sew a total of 3 (9, 30) blocks.
For the table runner, sew 3 blocks together horizontally.
For the wall hanging, use a 3 x 3 layout.
For the lap quilt, use a 5 x 6 layout.
Border Assembly

As you sew the borders onto the quilt top, trim off excess and press towards border fabric.

Table runner
1st Border - cut one strip in half. Sew to left and right side of quilt top. Sew the remaining strips to the top and
bottom.

2nd Border - repeat assembly instructions as 1st border.

Wall hanging
1st Border - cut one strip in half. Sew to left and right side of quilt top. Sew the remaining strips to the top and
bottom.

2nd Border - Sew the strips to the left and right side of quilt top. Sew the remaining strips to the top and bottom.

Lap Quilt
1st Border - cut one strip in half. Sew each half strip to one strip WOF. You will have two. Sew onto top and bottom
of quilt top.
From the remaining strips, sew two strips together. Repeat for the remaining two strips. Sew to left and right side of
quilt top.

2nd Border - Sew two strips together. Repeat for the remaining strips. You will have 4 pieced sets. Sew to top and
bottom of quilt, then right and left side of quilt.

Quilt as desired.
Backing

Table runner - yardage will fit top.

Wall hanging - yardage will fit top.
Lap Quilt - cut fabric in half, sew along length of fabric.

Binding
Sew the binding strips together to form one continuous strip. Sew binding to quilt top.

One table runner, wall hanging and lap quilt. You will have extra fat quarters. Hope you've enjoyed this tutorial.

Kim Sherrod
{kimsherrodstudio.blogspot.com}

Spiders and Webs Quilt

Hi! My name is Heidi from Boys, Buttons, and Butterflies. I grew up in a household that didn't celebrate
Halloween or go trick-or-treating, so I have always been intrigued by the holiday. Since I first took my oldest son
trick-or-treating fourteen years ago, I have wanted to take Halloween more seriously.

This fall, I fell in love with Trick-or-Treat by Deb Strain. I couldn't resist the urge to make a simple quilt with this
fabric!
1 jelly roll (Trick or Treat by Deb Strain)
4.5 yards of Moda Marble (purple)
Acrylic ruler that includes a 60 degree angle
Basic quilting supplies
Variegated thread (purple/pink/gray tones)

Unroll and sort the strips by color. Separate the orange candy corn to the side for the binding.
Divide the rest of the strips into sets of four using the white, black, and orange.

Sort the four colors in different orders. I used the green as my guide for all the groupings. Sometimes it was first,
sometimes second, and so on! When you have run out of green (because you will!), sort the rest of the strips in
orange, black, and white colors to make more collections of four.
Sew each strip with 1/4 inch seam. Press. You will have several lovely rectangles!!
Now it is time to meet your acrylic ruler and it's 60 degree angle markings. The arrows are on the lines that you will
line up your fabric top edge with.

The line that is marked with the 60 degree number along the top edge of your rectangle.

Make your first cut at the left edge of your strips laid out lengthwise.
After the first cut, pivot your ruler and line the rule with top ledge with the 60 degree angle line going the other
direction to make a triangle.

Continue down the fabric making 62 total triangles with ALL of the stripped rectangles.
Cut four 8.5 inch strips from the width of the Moda Marble (purple). Then cut 22 triangles using the 60 degree
angle exactly the same way you did for the strip triangles.

Using the photo below, layout your triangles to make hexagon shapes with the strip pieced triangles and purple
triangles in between. There are nine complete hexagons and two incomplete hexagons. Arrange the triangles so
that the green is distributed throughout each hexagon and that the colors alternate rows. Don't stress too much
about it. I did and it wasn't worth it!!! If you are worried, just follow the order I have below!
Piece the triangles together.
You will have six vertical strips.

Press the seams. Clean up the dog ears and snip the center where the three triangles meet to eliminate bulkiness
when piecing the strips.
Pin the strips together and sew.

Pin each seam after aligning to ensure the finished seams will match up.
Fold them out and press.

Cut two 3 x 60 inch pieces and two 3 x 50 inch pieces from the length of the purple Moda Marble for sashing.

There is an imaginary line that you will make across the top and bottom of your quilt. Use the tips of the hexagons
on the end as your guide.
Use the sashing along that imaginary line as a guide and then place your ruler at the edge to trim the "dog ears" to
ensure a straight cut across the quilt.

Piece sashing to all four sides.

Backing. Cut four pieces of Moda Marble (purple) for the backing in the following measurements:

 32 x 60 inches
 18 x 40 inches
 3 x 18 inches
 3 x 17 inches
Piece the backing following this diagram. The orange hexagon and purple triangles represent the leftover strip
pieced triangles and purple triangles to make one final "web".

Quilt. I love to spray baste my cotton batting and then get to work.

I set out to do stitch in the ditch for the webs and free motion quilting with spiders in the purple background, but
when I set up my machine to start and had the foot over the webs, I instantly thought of the movie Coraline.

There is a part where Coraline is trapped in a web and it seems to stretch into a spiral. The quilting was meant to
be and I am really pleased with the primitive spirals around jarring color changes and straight lines.
I then ditched my plans for spiders because the fabric was already too busy. I decided to quilt very symmetrical
triangles in the purple areas. I left an open area in each triangle center.

Variegated thread seemed the best choice for the webs and a complementary purple for the Moda Marble. It really
detracted the fact that it was crossing white fabrics all the way to black. I definitely see myself using this more in the
future.
I also used the variegated thread in the bobbin and it made the backing more interesting.

Binding. Don't forget that you saved the six candy corn strips!! Piece each strip together to make one long strip of
my favorite candies!

They are perfect fit for the 1 1/4 inch Quilt Binding Tip for my machine. However, no need for the machine. Don't
fear...you can just fold it in half and iron it! I have done it without any difficulties for many years until I bought this
gadget!
I like to sew the binding by machine to the front of my quilt matching the raw edges of the binding and the quilt. I
then hand sewing the folded edge to the back. I was really pleased with the idea of alternating the background
colors of black, white and orange. They blend seamlessly and are interesting at the same time.

1 Halloween Quilt 50 x 60 inches.

Great for a picnic or hayride. I actually plan on using it as a tablecloth for the celebrations. It fits my kitchen table
wonderfully!
If you like this quilt tutorial, come join Button and me over at my blog, Boys, Buttons, and Butterflies to see some
other quilts and craft tutorials while I manage four boys. Baby Button and I are always up to no good most days
while the rest of the boys are at school!

Thanks for stopping by today, I hope you enjoy this tutorial!

Amish Braid Quilt
Hi! I am Leila Gardunia from Sewn by Leila and today I will show you how to make your own Amish-inspired quilt.
Bella Solids are perfect for a project like this and the precut Jelly Roll makes it come together lickity split. Let's get
started!
1 Jelly Roll of Dark Bella Solids
1 yard Bella Purple
2 yards Bella Aubergine for the top
3 yards Bella Aubergine for the backing

Cutting:

Cut 30 jelly roll strips roll into 7.5 inch long segments.

Out of the scraps cut three 2.5 inch squares.

Out of the Purple cut:

 four 10.5 inch squares (corners)

 six width of fabric (WOF) strips 1 inch wide (flange)
 seven WOF strips 2.5 inches wide (binding)

Out of the Aubergine cut:

 two 10.5 x 40.5 inch rectangles (top border)

 two 10.5 x 48 inch rectangles (side border)
 two 8.5 x 48 inch rectangles (inner strips)

To cut the 48 inch long rectangles, carefully fold your fabric selvage to selvage. Square up the right hand side at
the 0 inch mark.
Draw a line at the 24 inch mark with chalk or washable pen.

Carefully move the fabric to the right and place your marked line on the 0 inch mark.
Cut on the left at the 24 inch mark. You now have a piece of fabric 48 inches long. Refold the fabric (cut ends
together) and cut two 8.5 and two 10.5 inch wide strips.

Piecing:
The Braid

Take one 2.5 inch square and line it up with the end of one of the 7.5 inch strips.
Sew together.

Open and press.

Lay another 7.5 inch strip perpendicular to the first and sew together.

Keep sewing strips on alternating sides until the braid is 48 inches long.
Fold the braid in half and line up the folded end at the 0 inch mark at the end of the cutting mat.

Square off the end at the 24 inch mark. The braid is now 48 inches long.
Keeping it folded, carefully square up the sides.

The braid should measure 8.5 inches wide. Repeat for all three braid sections.
The exposed sides of the braid are cut on the bias and prone to stretching. To avoid unnecessary handling and
stretching, carefully fold the braid into a bundle until you are ready to continue sewing.

Piecing the Middle

Sew the three braid and two 8.5 x 48 inch Aubergine pieces together length wise. Alternate the strips (Braid,
Aubergine, Braid, Aubergine, Braid).

The Flange

Sew the 1 inch lengths of Purple fabric together. Press seams open. Then press the strip in half lengthwise. Cut
the strip into two 48 inch and two 40.5 inch pieces.
Attach the flange to each side of the pieced middle. Line up the raw edge of the flange with the edge of the middle
section. Using a wide stitch, zig-zag along the edge.

When you attach the next side, simply overlap the ends and sew along the side as before. All of the loose ends will
be enclosed when the borders are added.

The Borders
Sew the 10.5 inch Purple squares to each side of the the two 10.5 x 40.5 inch Aubergine strips. Press in towards
the Aubergine.

Sew the 10.5 x 48 inch strips of fabric to each side of the flanged middle section. When you are done a neat 1/4
inch flange will nicely frame the middle. Press toward the Aubergine.

Sew the Purple/Aubergine strips to the top and bottom.

You did it!

Quilting
Now is the time to put on your creative thinking hat. This is a project that really lets the quilting shine. I quilted the
middle strips with cables and the sides with simple piano key lines, but the sky is the limit.

One beautiful 60 x 68 inch Amish-inspired quilt.

If you are new to quilting and want to learn more, stop by my blog and check out the We Can Do It! Skill Builder
Sampler. With weekly quilt block tutorials covering all of the basic quilting skills, you will be a pro in no time. :)

Happy Quilting!

Leila
{Sewn by Leila}

Indian Summer Wall Hanging

Hi! This is Kim and I'm back with a quick and easy tutorial to share with you. This wall hanging comes together
quickly using triangles and there is no marking needed. All fabrics used are from Kansas Troubles Perennials
collection.

6 fat quarters - 3 light, 1 medium, 2 dark coordinating prints

1st Border - 1/3 yard
2nd Border - 5/8 yard
Binding - 1/4 yard
Backing - 1 yard

The fat quarters are labeled as follows: light 1, light 2, light 3, med, dark 1, dark 2.

Determine your color order and cut as follows:

Light 1: 4 - 3 7/8" squares

Light 2: 8 - 3 7/8" squares
Light 3: 8 - 3 7/8" squares
Medium: 4 - 3 7/8" squares
Dark 1: 8 - 3/ 7/8" squares
Dark 2: 4 - 3 7/8" squares
1st Border: 4 - 2 1/2" strips
2nd Border: 4 - 4 1/2" strips
Binding: 3 - 2 1/4" strips

Stack the squares into their own piles according to the fabric prints.
Cut all 3 7/8" squares once on the diagonal.

Here I've separated them by print.

Sew all the half square triangles following photos below.

Sew 16 Unit A half square triangles.

Unit A
Sew 4 Unit B half square triangles.

Unit B

Sew 8 Unit C half square triangles.

Unit C

Sew 4 Unit D half square triangles.

 Unit D

Sew 4 Unit E half square triangles.

Unit E
Take the Unit A half square triangles and place them as follows to create a pinwheel block.

Sew the half square triangles together to complete the pinwheel block. These will be the corner pinwheels for your
quilt top. Sew a total of 4 blocks.
Repeat the steps above with the Unit B half square triangles to form the pinwheel block for the center of the quilt
top.
Take the remaining Unit C, D and E half square triangles and place them according to the image below.

Sew the half square triangles together. These blocks will be for the outside center of the quilt top.
Sew a total of 4 blocks.

It's time to assemble the quilt top. Place all your blocks as follows.
Sew the rows together.
Take the 1st border strips and sew them to the sides, trim excess. Sew the remaining strips to the top and bottom
of the quilt top, trim excess. Press seams towards the border.
Repeat the same steps above for the 2nd border.

Layer the quilt top, batting and backing together. Quilt as desired. Sew the binding strips together and bind using
your preferred binding method.
This will make one 30" square wall hanging or table topper. Come visit me over at my blog for more fun ideas using
your leftover fabrics.

Kim Sherrod
(kimsherrodstudio.blogspot.com)

Sophie's Bouquet
Fresh from the oven at Jo's Country Junction is the latest Moda Bake Shop recipe....Sophie's Bouquet. Our old
farm dog, Pepper, is showing off the quilt that features fabric from the line Sophie by Chez Moi. I am in love with
the fabric. I am especially in love with the turquoise blue floral fabric that is used as the setting squares. The floral
design is amazing. The quilt uses one jelly roll along with extra yardage.

To get you started, Kimberly over at the Fat Quarter Shop is sponsoring a giveaway over on my blog to get you
started on the project. After you're done here, hop on over and check it out.
1 Jelly Roll-Sophie for Blocks and Scrappy Binding

4 1/4 yards Nosegay Blue Fiesta (32501-11) for Setting Squares, Setting Triangle and Corner Triangles

2 yards Sophie Leafy Swirl Pink Sorbet 32504 13- for constant pink in the blocks and the inner border

1 3/4 yards Sophie Petal Pink Sorbet 32506 22-for background fabric in the blocks

6 yards Sophie Paisley Floral Cream 32502 14

You will also need a half square triangle ruler such as an Easy Angle.

If you would want to fussy cut the setting squares, you will need extra yardage.

From the setting fabric:

Cut 12~ 6 1/2" strips. Sub cut into 72~ 6 1/2" squares.

Cut 3~ 9 3/4" strips. Sub cut into 9~ 9 3/4" squares. Cut these squares twice on the diagonal to get your setting
triangles. You will use 34.

Cut 2~ 5 1/8" squares. Cut once on the diagonal to create 4 corner triangles.

From the pink constant fabric in the blocks:

Cut 17~ 2 1/2" strips. Sub cut into 270 2 1/2" squares.

For the background fabric in the blocks:

When I made my version, I used the lights from the jelly roll pieces for some of the back ground in the blocks. I cut
the remainder from the light yardage. You can do it the way I did or you can make all of the background from the
same fabric. You will need a total of 23~ 2 1/2" strips for the background.

I pulled out the strip of fabric that matches the setting fabric and set it aside.

Take one of the jelly roll strips. Layer it right sides together with one of the light 2 1/2" strips as shown. Place it on
the cutting mat. Take the half square triangle ruler and position it over the top. Cut a straight edge on the side as
shown.
Following the manufacturers instructions that came with the ruler, cut triangles as shown. Flip the ruler as you
make each cut. Each block needs six sets of triangles. Continue cutting across the strip making triangles. You will
get four sets of six triangles per strip.

Chain piece the triangles, keeping the like triangles together.

Cut the triangles apart. Clip the dog ears and press towards the dark fabric. Continue keeping like squares
together.

Layout the half square triangles along with three pink squares as shown.
Sew the blocks into rows.

Sew the rows into blocks. Continue until you have 90 blocks. Press blocks.

Now is the fun part...the layout. This quilt is set on the diagonal. It's easy to get blocks twisted or turned. I kept
watching and checking to make sure those pink squares were lined up in rows.

Continue laying the blocks out in a 9 x 10 setting. Sew the blocks into rows then sew the rows into a quilt top.
Notice the pink squares are all in a line.
Take the backing fabric and cut it in half. From the remaining jelly roll strips cut 6~ 21" pieces. Piece them together
connecting them on the diagonal as you would binding strips. Sew the strip between the two backing pieces. This
isn't completely necessary. I just like to do it so that I don't have to try to match the prints in the backing fabric.

Layer the backing, batting and quilt top together. Quilt as desired.

Cut eight 2 1/2" strips of the blue floral fabric. Use them to bind the quilt.
One 74" x 83" quilt.

Come on over to my blog, Jo's Country Junction, and see all the pictures I took while making the quilt. There were
a few mishaps that went into this quilt. You will also want to check out the giveaway that Kimberly from The Fat
Quarter Shop is sponsoring there.

Jo Kramer
Vintage Inspired Bear Paw Quilt

I was inspired by this Bear Paw quilt made by my great-grandmother to make my own version of this very special
quilt. You can even see by the worn spots how much this quilt is loved. I didn't know my great-grandmother very
well, but I know she was a very special lady by the way my mom talks about her and the fact that she taught my
mom how to quilt when she was young. I love this quilt! I am thankful to be able to share this tutorial with all of you,
so you too could make a very special heirloom piece for you and your family. Enjoy!

Fabric featured in tutorial is Glace by 3 Sisters

2 Charm Packs
1 Turnover
1 Basic Jelly Roll in Snow #9900JR-11
1 yard Bella Solid in Snow #9900-11
5 yards coordinating fabric for backing and binding
Coordinating Thread
Luna Batting by Moda

Cutting the Pieces...

1. Select 12 Charm Squares and 12 Turnover slices from 4 different color ways. You will need a total of 48 Charm
Squares and 48 Turnover slices.

2. You will need to trim your 48 charm squares down to 4 1/2" square.
3. From the Turnover slice, cut the triangle down the center creating 2 triangles.
4. From the two smaller triangles, cut them in half creating two more smaller triangles.

5. You should now have 4 little triangles from your 1 original Turnover slice.
Repeat these steps for all 12 of your triangles selected.

6. From the 1 yard of Bella Solid cut 96 - 3" x 3" squares.

7. Cut them in half diagonally creating two triangles. Do this to all 96 squares.

8. From the Solid Jelly Roll...

Cut 48 - 14 1/2" strips for borders.
Cut 48 - 6 1/2" strips for sashing.
Cut 96 - 2 1/2" squares. 48 of these squares will be used for each bear paw. The other 48 squares will be used on
the borders.

Sewing the bear paw...

All seam allowances are 1/4"

9. Lay out your triangles and squares as shown below to create a bear paw. I used all the same print for each
individual bear paw.

10. Begin by sewing all the triangles RST (right sides together)
11. You should now have four squares that look like the picture below.

12. Lay out all your pieces again for your bear paw to get proper placement. 1 trimmed Charm square (4 1/2"), 4
sewn triangle squares and 1 - 2 1/2" square from your solid jelly roll.
13. First sew two of the triangle blocks together on one side of the charm square as shown. Press all pieces as
you go.

14. Next sew the other two triangle blocks and the plain solid block together in a row as shown. press.

15. Sew the row of the two triangle blocks RST to one side of the charm square. press.
16. Align your seams and sew the other row of the three blocks to the other side of the block as shown. press. Trim
your bear paw to 6 1/2" square.

17. Repeat steps 9-16 for all 48 bear paws. You should now have 12 bear paws of 4 different color ways.

18. From your left over charm squares and/or turnover slices, cut a total of 12 - 2 1/2" squares.
3 squares for each of the 4 color ways.

On a charm square, simply slice in half in both directions.

On a turnover slice, cut 2 1/2" from one one of the shorter sides as shown.

Then turn and cut 2 1/2" from the other short side of the triangle.
Constructing the Bear Paw Clusters...
19. Lay out 4 bear paws of the same color way, 4 - 6 1/2" sashing strips, and 1 - 2 1/2" middle square that
coordinates with your bear paws as shown below.

20. Sew the rows together as shown below and press your seams opposite from another as shown to reduce the
bulk when sewing.

21. Sew the three rows together RST creating a bear paw cluster. press.
22. Lay out your bear paw cluster block and 4 - 2 1/2" squares and 4 - 14 1/2" squares as shown below.
23. Sew the pieces together creating three rows as shown. press.

24. Sew the three rows RST as shown. press.

25. Repeat steps 19-24 for all the other bear paw blocks. You should now have 12 bear paw cluster blocks, 3 of
each of the 4 color ways.

Assembling the Quilt...

26. Lay out all your blocks as you see fit.

27. Sew the blocks together in rows.

28. Sew the rows together to complete your quilt top.

29. Quilt, bind, ENJOY!

Quilt top measures 54" x 72"

Angela Yosten
Introducing Owlivia - A Sewing Companion
Hello Moda Bake Shop Followers,

I am Sandy Gervais, a fabric designer for none other than Moda Fabrics. (Yes, it is a dream job!) Lissa at Moda
asked me to design a project that could be sold as a kit using my new spring line, Frolic. I thought it would be fun to
have a "sewing companion" to set by your machine, or on a shelf nearby.

With that thought Owliva was born. The size of her eyes certainly enables her to "watch" over you. She could also
be used as a pincushion - if you can bear to poke her with pins. The kit includes pattern, 6 fabrics, ric rac, cotton
batting and two buttons for $12.50 (plus shipping). All you will need to add is your favorite stuffing - batting, play
sand, walnut shells, etc.

Go here to order the kit.

6 Frolic Layer Cake squares

10" of jumbo ric rac
10" X 10 1/2" piece of batting
2 pieces of cotton batting 2" X 2"

Two 5/8" buttons.

Poly-fil
Crushed walnut shells

One sweet sewing companion.

Go here to download and print the template. Note this prints on 11" X 14" paper.

1. From your Frolic Layer Cake™ select:

Green leaf print square - cut this to a size of 6 1/2" X 10"
Solid orange square - cut this to a size of 2 1/4" X 10"
Brown daisy print square - cut this to a size of 3 1/4" X 10"
2. With right sides together, stitch these three pieces together along the 10" sides. Press. (front of owl)
3. Cut a piece of ric rac 10" long.
4. Center ric rac over middle orange piece.
5. Machine stitch down center of ric rac.

6. Cut a piece of cotton batting 10" X 10 1/2".

7. Lay the batting down and place the pieced owl front on top of batting with right side up.
8. Top with the large brown floral Layer Cake™ square, right sides together, matching lower edges.

9. Fold back large brown floral print to the spot where the green print meets the orange solid piece.
10. Insert pins to mark the fold.

11. Lay owl template onto backing fabric.

12. Lay a ruler across the pin markings.
13. Now move your owl template until the dotted line on the owl template is lined up with the ruler.

14. Pin template in place.

15. Using a small machine stitch, stitch ON the template line, leaving an opening at the bottom for turning and
stuffing.
16. Tear away the paper.
17. Cut out owl a scant 1/4" away from stitching line. (It is helpful to leave about a 1/2" excess in the opening area.)
18. Turn right side out.

19. Stuff firmly with Poly-fil - just up to the middle section.

20. Fill remainder of owl with crushed walnut shells. This will make Owlivia stand straight. (You can purchase
crushed walnut shells at a pet store.)

21. Whip stitch opening shut.

22. From your solid yellow Layer Cake™ square cut a 2" X 2" square.
23. Fold this in half diagonally, wrong sides together. Finger press.

24. Fold in half diagonally again. Finger press. (beak)

25. Pin beak in place. (see owl template for placement) Stitch beak in place with a running stitch.

26. From the medium brown flowered Layer Cake™ cut out two large flowers. (these are the eyes)
27. From cotton batting cut two 1 1/2" circles. (eye backing)

28. Center eye over batting circle.

29. Using a running stitch, stitch eye to batting by stitching through all thicknesses around the center of the eye.

30. Thread a long needle with two strands of thread.

31. Sew button in place in center of eye. DO NOT cut thread.
 32. Position eye onto owl. Poke needle through hole of button, go through the owl and come out the back of the
owl, pulling thread tight so that eye pulls in somewhat.
33. Go back and forth a couple of times and knot thread in back of owl.
34. Repeat for other eye.

Viola!
 Meet Owlivia –Isn't she a Hoot?

Now go stitch.

From my heart,
Sandy
Bunny Eggs

Create some pretty bunny eggs that you can use year after year in your home decor for Easter. This is a great
project to do with your kids, grandkids, etc. Adult supervision may be required.

1 Honey Bun - featured Verna by Kate Spain

Mod Podge
Paper Mache Eggs or Styrofoam eggs
Large paint brush
Scissors
Plastic table cover (one you can throw away)

1. Put all your eggs in one basket or bowl for easy access. The next steps can get very messy so this is very
helpful when you are in the middle of it. I used two different size eggs. Jumbo Eggs and regular size.

2. On the Jumbo eggs... apply a coat of Mod Podge in an area and then apply a honey bun strip on the coated
area.

3. Working around the egg, continue to apply the Mod Podge, then a strip of fabric, then more Mod Podge on top to
help seal the fabric on the egg.
4. Continue adding strips wrapped around the egg until all the egg is covered. In the end you have some very
colorful Jumbo eggs.

5. For the smaller eggs, cut the honey bun strip into 1/2" sections for easy application.

6. Following the instructions above, apply Mod Podge, then a fabric strip, then Mod Podge again on top of the
fabric.
7. Continue until the egg is completely covered. Please note... adult supervision may be required. :)

Beautifully decorating fabric bunny eggs to decorate your house with.

Hope you all have a wonderful Easter!

Angela Yosten
Spring T-Shirt Tutorial

White t-shirt
3 - different strips of fabric from a Honey Bun
3 - different 3 x 3" fabrics
3 - buttons
needle and thread
From your three honey bun strips, iron in half length wise.

Pick three coordinating pieces of fabric.

Cut 1 - 3 x 3" square out of each fabric. (This really does not need to be out of matching fabric, because you wont
see it.)
Draw 3 different size circles on each of them. The sizes of the circles are 1 1/2", 1 1/4" and 1". I found that the tops
and bottoms of medicine bottles worked great.

Fold the edge of your fabric over onto the back about 1/4" and start sewing. It's hard to tell from the picture but the
stitching is on the very edge of the fabric, only about 1/8" in. Note - the raw edges of the fabric are on the inside
touching the circle, and the fold is on the outside.
Sew a little less than 1/2" and then stop. Raise your presser foot and do a 1/4" pleat as close to the front of the
presser foot as you can get. Sew until you've done 2 or 3 stitches in the pleat and then repeat, keeping fabric on
the outside of the circle.

It should start looking like this.

Keep repeating until you've gone completely around the circle and about 1/2" over the start of the circle. Now start
working your way inwards. Start moving the fabric in about 1/4" or less and keep repeating the pleats. Do this until
you reach the inside of the circle and the majority or all of the background fabric is covered.

When you reach the inside of the circle and you're ready to finish cut the fabric about 1/4" from the end and tuck if
under and stitch. Remember the middle doesn't need to look perfect because it will have a button, and that button
can be as big as you want it. :)
Not the greatest picture, but your flower should resemble this.

Now cut the excess fabric off of the back, around the stitching.
Sew a button onto the front of the flower. Place the flowers where you want them on the t-shirt and pin. With a
needle and matching thread start sewing the flowers onto the t-shirt. Note - at first I did this with the knots on the
inside of the shirt, but on the others I made I put the knots on the flowers, and tried to cover them by stitching them
in between the rows. I was worried the knots would bother my daughter when they rubbed against her skin.
One super cute Spring / Easter T-shirt for your favorite little girl!
Come over and visit me at my blog - Our Cozy Nest, I'm having a little giveaway!
iPad sleeve three ways

Are you an "early adopter"? One of the first to own a new Apple iPad? Be the envy of your friends not only for
having the coveted device, but for having the coolest carrying case on the block. This tutorial contains three
variations on the pattern to allow you to choose the one that best suits your style. These iPad sleeves use the new
Moda Snuggle fabric to create an inner lining that is both soft and protective.
  1 jelly roll. I used "Odyssea" by MoMo.
 1 jelly roll of Bella Solids, or a cut of a coordinating solid print. Measurements for each sleeve variation are
below.
 For each, a 18.5" x 11.5" piece of a coordinating Moda Snuggle fabric. (A 1/3 yard cut will yield 2 pieces.)
 For each, a 20" x 12" scrap piece of quilt batting.

 Coordinating ribbons, buttons, or other embellishments.

Version A - Simple strips:

1. Create the sleeve exterior:

 Select 4 jelly roll strips and cut each down to 20" (x 2.5" wide).
 Cut 4 strips of your coordinating solid 20" x 1.5" wide.
  Sew your strips together, alternating your prints and your solids. Start with a solid strip at the top and end
with a printed strip at the bottom. Orient any directional prints accordingly. You should end up with a pieced
sleeve exterior measuring approximately 20" x 12.5". Trim down to 20" x 12".
 Baste the sleeve exterior to the batting. I like to use a thin layer of spray baste for a small project such as
this.
 Quilt as desired. I free-motion quilted an all-over meandering pattern. Straight-line quilting patterns, such
as stitch in the ditch or outline quilting, would work nicely here too.
 Now is a good time to embellish the front of your sleeve as you'd like. Topstitching a coordinating piece of
ribbon from side to side would look nice. So would a small collection of vintage buttons, or an appliqued
design, monogram, or initial. Don't be afraid to personalize your design.
 Trim your quilted piece down to 18.5" wide x 11.5" tall.

2. Assemble the sleeve:

 Fold your quilted exterior sleeve piece in half along the 18.5" side with right sides together. Your folded
piece should measure approximately 9.25" wide x 11.5" tall.
 Remember which opening is your top opening, and stitch the side and bottom openings closed with a
single seam. With your fold on the left, starting at the top right stitch down the right side and across the
bottom. Use a backstitch at the start and end of your seam, and pin first if you find that to be helpful. Leave
the top open.
 Repeat this step with your lining piece. Remember to fold it with right sides together and leave the top
open. You should now have two pouch-like pieces that are closed on three sides and open on the top.
 Turn your lining piece inside out so that the Snuggle fabric is on the outside. Place your lining inside of the
exterior pouch and push in the corners until it fits snugly. Your exterior strip piece and Snuggle fabric
should be facing each other on the inside of the pouch, with your batting later on the outside of the pouch. I
alternated the side seams so that the seam of exterior layer was on the right side and the seam of the
lining layer was on the left side.
 Line up and pin your interior and exterior layers together around the top.
 Stitch the pieces together around the opening, leaving about a 4" hole between the start and end of your
seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.

3. Finish your iPad sleeve:

 Pull the interior and exterior portions of the sleeve through the 4" opening that you left open at the top of
the sleeve. Push out all corners, smooth out your sleeve, and press as needed.
 With a coordinating thread, topstitch (or use a decorative stitch) around the top edge of the sleeve to sew
the opening closed.
 OPTIONAL: for a more finished look, select another jelly roll strip and bind the top of the sleeve as you
would bind a quilt. You can also tuck the ends of two pieces of ribbon underneath opposite sides of your
binding to create a nice tie for securing your iPad in the sleeve.

Version B - Pretty pleats:

1. Create the sleeve exterior:

 Select 6 printed jelly roll strips and cut each down to 20" (x 2.5" wide).
 Press each strip in half with wrong sides together so that each measures 20" x 1.25".
 Select 6 of your solid jelly roll strips (or cut 6 strips of your coordinating solid 20" x 2.5" wide).
 Layer a folded jelly roll strip between 2 solid strips, aligning all of the raw edges.
 Sew all layers together. Press open. You will see that the folded strip is now layered in the seam of the
solid strips.
 With your pleat facing downward, line up the raw edges of another folded strip to the top raw edge and
layer another solid strip on top. Sew all the layers together and press open, with the pleat facing the same
was as the first one. You can see how you are now creating the exterior of the sleeve to have pretty little
pleats for added texture.
 Continue piecing the strips together in this manner until you have a piece measuring approximately 20" x
12.5". (For the final layer, which should be a folded jelly roll strip, simply baste it to the top-most solid strip
using about an 1/8" seam.
 Baste the sleeve exterior to the batting. I like to use a thin layer of spray baste for a small project such as
this.
 Quilt as desired. I quilted in straight lines by stitching in the ditch 1/4" from each seam. This technique, or
stitching in the ditch, will help your pleats to lay flat.
 Trim your quilted piece down to 18.5" wide x 11.5" tall.

Follow steps 2 and 3 (assembling and finishing your sleeve) above.

Version C - Dynamic diagonals:

1. Create the sleeve exterior:

 Start with your 20" x 12" piece of quilt batting. This will serve as a template for the exterior of your quilt
sleeve.
 Using the batting as a guide, begin cutting and laying out jelly roll strips in an eye-pleasing diagonal layout,
making sure the strips have some overhang on either side of the batting template. Once you have your
design and your strips are cut, move them to the side.
 Beginning at the bottom left corner, place your first diagonal strip on the batting and then the second strip
on top of it, right sides together. Move your piece of batting to the machine and stitch all three layers
together. Press the strips open. You can now see how you will be assembling the exterior of the sleeve,
strip by strip, directly to the batting.
 Once you have sewn all strips to the batting, trim the overhanging pieces from the sides. You can use your
batting as your guide, keeping in intact at 20" x 12".
 Quilt as desired. I used a decorative stitch along each seam. Straight-line quilting (such as outline stitching
or stitching in the ditch) would work nicely here, as would an all-over quilting pattern or free-motion
meandering pattern.
 Now is a good time to embellish the front of your sleeve as you'd like. Topstitching a coordinating piece of
ribbon from side to side would look nice. So would a small collection of vintage buttons, or an appliqued
design, monogram, or initial. Don't be afraid to personalize your design.
 Trim your quilted piece down to 18.5" wide x 11.5" tall.

Follow steps 2 and 3 (assembling and finishing your sleeve) above.

 A stylish new sleeve to protect your iPad and carry it in style!

Feel free to "hack" this tutorial to (as Randy Jackson would say) "make it your own, dawg". Want to add straps,
flaps, snaps, or other fasteners? I'd love to see it! Be sure to post your finished iPad sleeves in the Moda Bake
Shop Flickr group.

John Adams
Quilt Dad
Charming Pincushion #1
Oh Cherry Oh! charm pack
DMC pearl cotton size 8
YLI silk thread
Large Clover Yo-Yo maker
Upholstery Thread
pins
Doll Maker's Needle
polyester stuffing, walnut shells for 'stuffing'

Buttons
Yo-Yo's

Choose 2 charms from your pack. Using the Clover yo-yo maker as my guide...
I trace around the edge...
This will be my sewing line.

I pin my charms right sides together to prevent slipping of the fabric as I sew the circle. I recommend changing your
stitch length to 1.5 instead of 2.2 or 2.5. I have found it will allow you to sew with out moving your presser foot up
and down as often. Make sure to leave an opening for turning. I usually backstitch at the beginning and end of
stitching to lock those stitches...to allow for a smoother finished look to the pincushion.

I trim to about 1/8 inch, with the tight stitches it is unlikely the stitches will pull out.
Next, turn pincushion right side out.

Stuff very full...or use walnut shells.

This step takes patience. I turn the openings in and pin atleast 3 places. You want to align the edges as closely as
possible. I sometimes find myself repinning 5 times or more. Then using the silk thread, wip stitch opening closed.

To give your pincushion more personality...chose a pearl cotton size 8 to coordinate. Knot one end of the pearl
cottong and draw up into the center of the pincushion. I use a doll makers needle as they are longer and stronger
to pull through the stuffing and fabric layers.
I proceed to up and over the sides of the cushion 6 to 8 times, pulling taught with each pass.

I finish off my thread end on the side of the cushion in which I started. In effect there are 2 knots there. I use a
button or yo-you to cover my knots and center.
Here's an example with a yo-yo center.....

A charm pack can make several pincushions...depends on the number of charms in the pack. I have also used
extra charms from finished projects for these pincushions.
Selvage Pillow

Make this charming pillow with your favorite selvages! It's quick and easy.
Wouldn't it look great in your quilt studio, or make a sweet gift for a quilter friend?

The back of the pillow could be simply a solid fabric, or you could sew leftover strips to a foundation as shown
below. (Instructions are for the front of the pillow only.)
One Moda Scrapbag (containing selvages)

Foundation fabric, 16" x 16"

Backing fabric, 16" x 16"

Purchased pillow form, 16" x 16"
Pen or pencil

Step One: Measure each side of your foundataion square placing a mark in the center as shown. Draw lines to
connect these 4 marks. The lines will serve as a guide in placing your horizontal selvages. Cover these lines as you
attach each selvage.

Step Two: Trim the selvages to your desired width as you work. I cut mine about 1.5 inches wide, so that some of
the printed pattern shows. Some are wider because I wanted the cherries or something special to show. Starting at
the bottom, lay your first selvage near the edge of the foundation and topstitch along the bound edge, as shown
below. Perfection is not critical here, as you will see later.
Step Three: Lay selvage #2 on top of selvage #1, being careful to cover the raw edge of #1 with the bound edge of
#2. Topstitch along the bound edge of #2.

Some selvage quilters like to arrange their selvages close together so the finished project is mostly white. Others
prefer to show more of the printed fabric for a more colorful look. I like to "mix it up" a little. It's up to you.

Step Four: Continue adding selvages, making sure you cover the guidelines that you drew. If they are longer than
necessary, that's okay. The extra length will be covered up later. Sometimes I pin the selvages to keep them from
shifting as I sew.
Continue on, arranging the selvages as you please. Curiously, this gets to be so much fun. I really like those
cherries, so I placed some in the middle, and more at the top.

Step Five: Now (peeking behind your foundation to see where your center marks are) arrange selvages on the
diagonal and topstitch.
Continue on, adding selvages on all four corners.

Step Six: Trim to 16" x 16."

Step Seven: Place your selvage block and your backing right sides together and sew along the outer edge using a
quarter inch seam allowance. Leave an opening along the bottom edge about 7 inches long, reinforcing your
stitching at each end of this opening. You may want to round the corners as shown below (so your pillow won't
have little points sticking out). Trim the corners. Turn right side out. Insert pillow (it helps to have another pair of
hands at this point). Hand sew the opening closed. You're done!

For more on selvage quilts and many other incredible selvage items (a selvage lamp, a selvage dress...), visit
Karen Griska's http://www.selvageblog.blogspot.com/ and http://www.selvagequilts.com/. Also see the new AQS
book, "Quilts from the Selvage Edge," by Karen Griska. It has fabulous photos and directions for stunning selvage
quilts. There are helpful tips too. You can see before and after photos showing what happens when you wash a
selvage quilt. (Spoiler Alert: Nothing bad happens! You can wash these!) Join the selvage revolution and become
an extreme scrap quilter, a dumpster diva, a "green" quilter.
Charming Twin Pincushions

Charm Pack --- (7) 5-inch charms

Upholstery Thread
YLI silk thread
Scrap of thin batting at least 5 inches X 10 inches
pins
poly stuffing or walnut shells
Clover yo-yo maker (optional)
Choose 4 charms for the half square triangles and trim to 3 inches square.

Take background fabric and cut 3 inch squares and layer Right sides together. Draw a line in the center of the
background fabric and sew 1/4 inch on each side as shown. Repeat for 3 other squares.
Cut the squares in half on the solid line and press your half square triangles

Once pressing is complete, arrange them in a '4-patch'....There are several possible layouts, such the
PINWHEEL....
Square on a Square.....

And others......
I chose 2 layouts as shown and sewed the half square triangles together. Layered the blocks with a thin batting
scrap and stitched in the ditch or 1/4 around the patch pieces. **NOTE** I didn't use backing fabric.

Trim the blocks to size 4 3/4 inches.

Using your favorite method, layer the pieced/quilted block right sides together with another charm cut to 4 3/4
inches. Sew the perimeter and leave an opening for stuffing. Stuff cushion and whip stitch with silk thread to hide
the seam.

Embellish with coordinating buttons and yo-yo's.

Coordinating buttons and yo-yo's *Note* at least 2 small yo-yo's can be made from a single charm.
Button

2 Pincushions..keep one for yourself and give the other away. If you are using an entire charm pack...you could
make at least 8-10 pincushions.
Midohioknitter-Vickie E

Puppy and Kitty Softies

Made from the ♥ by Vickie E aka mid-ohio quilter

Read all directions carefully before beginning this project.

• Hushabye Layer Cake Moda sku# 23040LC

• DMC pearl cotton size 8 DMC #776, #3348, Valdani #8
• Clover yo-yo makers Jumbo, Large, Small & X-small
• scrap brown wool felt
• poly stuffing
• pencil, needle, thread, pins
• Pinking Shears
• purple thang
• embroidery hoop
• stabilizer for embroidery
• water soluble pen or brown pigma pen
• a small scrap light weight heat n bond
•Begin by choosing 3 of your 10 inch squares, preferably at least one that has a circle print.

• Cut out 2 'eyes' with out 1/8 of an inch around the edge as shown.
• Using the JUMBO clover yo-yo maker or other 7-inch circle template. Trace with a pencil or water erasable pen
on the wrong side (WS) of one of your "body" fabrics.
• *Tip* trace the 'bumps' on the yo-yo maker and use to align your circles when you sew them together.

• Print the templates for the ears, arms, legs and faces. Make a paper template by cutting out on the line. This is
your sewing line.
• *Note* click on picture to enlarge and print
• Place the 2 "body" fabrics right sides together (RST) and pin to prevent shifting.
• Using the templates trace around the ears, legs/arms.

• This is the way the fabric will look. Sew around the solid lines of the ears, arms and legs...leaving the bottom open
for turning. Set aside.
• Cut out the body pieces AFTER you sew the arms, legs and ears. Set pieces aside.
• Trace the face onto the circle with a water soluble pen or brown pigma pen.
• Using pinking shears...trim the 'eye' fabrics as shown.

• Using Size 8 pearl cotton to match the fabrics sew fabric eyes onto face.
• Pink DMC #3348
• Green DMC #776
• Brown Valdani #8

• Use a running stitch to outline and attach the eyes.

• Trace the nose template onto fusible light weight heat n bond. Adhere to wool felt.
• Cut out on the line and peel paper backing and iron to kitty "front" fabric. *note* if you use a blue water soluble
pen...heat will set the pen and it will not rinse away.
• Using an embroidery hoop, use a running stitch to make the whiskers and mouth.
• Stitch a buttonhole around the brown nose.
• IF you used a water erasable pen...rinse out BEFORE you turn your piece or iron!

• Cut out arms, legs and ears with a scant 1/8 inch seam allowance.
• Clip inner curve of arms and legs before turning.

•Turn out all pieces shown. *note* 2 legs face right, 2 face left!
•Lightly stuff with polyfil and a purple thang
• With softies face up; pin arms, legs and ears.
• *note* the appendage fabric you want to face the front of the softie needs to be pinned "DOWN" and the fabric to
the back fabric needs to be "UP".
• Lay the 'back' fabric RST with the front fabric.

• Pin, Pin, Pin....all the way around easing excess If there is any.

• Pinch back fabric and snip a 1.5 inch slit in the fabric.
• Turn right side out.

• Iron and stuff firmly with polyfil.

• Slip stitch opening closed.

• Using the 3 sizes of yo-yo maker and scraps make:

• 5 x-small yo-yo's
• 1 small yo-yo
• 1 large yo-yo
• Take completed yo-yo and quilting thread and string 5 yo-yo's together.

• Knot the thread but do NOT cut it.

• Add the small yo-yo and knot thread, do not cut the thread.
• Finally the large one can be sewed on the small and appliqued to cover the opening.

•Back view of the puppy...made with just 1 large yo-yo for a more baby friendly toy.
• Back side of both softies.

One layer cake could make several softies. I hope you enjoy the designs as they were made from my ♥ for my little
girls.