LIVING SAIGON STORIES

Originating from giao

lãnh dress with four
flaps in the 17th century,
the Vietnamese áo dài
(traditional long dress)
has evolved through
time into women’s outfit
which can be worn both
in daily activities and
special functions

AN EVOLUTION
OF ELEGANCE
By Tuong Vi

V
ietnam’s traditional long dress is unique in that
it can reveal the wearer’s hidden charm as well as
her outward gracefulness. Once a daily costume
of Vietnamese women before the 1970s, ao dai, with its
evolution from the forms and materials to patterns, has
been a great inspiration for designers and fashionistas
across the country.
According to designer Si Hoang, ao dai not only highlights
the beauty of Vietnamese women, but also is a cultural
symbol with which the Vietnamese are associated and Two expatriates wearing the Vietnamese
recognized in the world. “Many occasions relevant to long dress at the Ao Dai Festival in HCMC

42 • March 14, 2015

cultural exchanges to nearly 20 countries over the past
25 years have left me believing that among what makes
Vietnam impressive is her cultural identity characterized
by ao dai,” said Hoang.
Giao lãnh dress in the 17th century is considered the
original version of ao dai. This outfit was worn with ym
(a halter top), a black skirt and a color belt with the two
front panels left dangling. Áo t thân (four-part gown) had
two flaps sewn together in the back while the other two
flaps were tied in the front. “The dress boasted its elegant
colors. Most women at that time stayed at home to take
care of their families,” said Hoang, who is also director of
Vietnamese Ao Dai Museum in HCMC’s District 9.
He said in the 18th century, áo ngũ thân (five-part
gown) had a “baby flap” hidden underneath the main
front flap and was worn by women of well-off families.
In the 19th century, the image of Queen Nam Phuong
wearing ao dai with exceptional elegance featuring
beautiful fabrics and sophisticated patterns was known
to many. However, the social role of most women in this
period was still modest.
Vietnamese ao dai broke away from its traditional
appearance in the 20th century, beginning in the
1930s-1940s. Women started to receive schooling and
engaged more in social life. Ao dai was then tailored
like a Western-style skirt but was split into two flaps
and worn with trousers. Wearing this renovated gown,
women could go to their workplace and join social
activities. The two-piece dress, which was designed by
Hanoian Nguyen Cat Tuong, whose pen name was Le Mur,
helped better underline femininity.
The long dress entered a new stage featuring those
with no collar, revealing the neck and shoulders of
PHOTOS: THANH HOA

women, which has still occasionally been favored

nowadays.
In the 1960s and 1970s, under the influence of the
American culture and the hippie movement, ao dai
became more colorful. The dress was worn with trousers
or even jeans.
In the 1980s and 1990s, painted ao dai and ao dai
made from brocade.
“Ao dai is a traditional costume but it is not
conservative,” said Hoang. “It has been changed
continuously, representing the changes of women’s roles.
All these indicate the aspiration for equality between
men and women.”
To date, ao dai is made in combination with traditional
culture and modern fashion. The Vietnamese ao dai has
also integrated into the world.
At formal functions to welcome diplomatic corps,
Vietnamese ao dai has often been chosen by the host to
be worn by high-profile guests and used as a gift. x
THE CITY OF AO DAI
The second festival of ao dai, themed “HCMC – the
city of ao dai,” took place at Dam Sen Cultural Park on
March 7-8. On this occasion, all female staff of tourism
agencies and hotels wore ao dai for two weeks, from
March 2-13.
Designer Si Hoang expressed hopes that a day
would be celebrated when all city dwellers wear ao
dai. “If this becomes true, the city may attract a larger
number of international tourists and local residents
will benefit from tourism activities, which will stimu-
late other economic activities,” he said.

March 14, 2015 • 43