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Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation
for cutting each piece of garment. Generally, the spreading process can be done manually or by
computer controlled machines. One or two person, based on the fabric type and width of fabric,
type of spreading machine and size of spread, can be involved in the spreading process. In case of
the manual spreading process, two persons are normally required except when the spread is too
short. One person on each side of the spreading table could work during spreading to keep the
fabric flat, smooth and tension-free. With the automatic spreading process, the equipment itself
controls the fabric tension, fabric placement and rate of travel.
Different types of machines and equipment’s used in fabric spreading process. Basically, they can
be classified in three categories. They are:
1. Manual spreading machines
2. Semi-automatic spreading machines
3. Fully automatic spreading machines
Either those types of garment spreading machine, various types of spreading machines and
equipment also used in apparel industry. They are described below.
Spreading table:
Spreading normally requires a flat, smooth surface. Spreading and cutting tables are available in
standard widths. A spreading table should be about 10″ wider than the fabric width (Figure-1). It
may have rails fixed on the top of a spreading table to guide and control the spreader as it moves
along the length of the table. With modern high speed spreading machines, all the drives are
synchronized to control the fabric tension.
Figure-3: A spreading table
Specialized spreading tables are also available depending on the type of fabric and cutting. One
kind of spreading has an option of a row of pins that are placed below the table surface and can be
drawn-out above the table through slots for better gripping of fabric in an accurate position for
getting an accurate pattern matching in case of repeats. Vacuum tables are also available to
compress the lay and prevent sliding of plies during cutting.
The fabric can be spread on one table and then transferred to the cutting table. With the air flotation
facility in spreading tables, a lay can be transported easily to the adjacent cutting table. A layer of
air between the top of the table and the bottom layer of paper reduces friction and allows a lay to
be moved easily. Spreading tables with a conveyor arrangement move the fabric from the
spreading table to the cutting table with ease to minimize the handling and transportation time.
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Solid bar:
Even though this method is apparently unsound, this kind of spreading by two workers is still used.
There is no tension control in this type of spreading and hypothetically can be used for any mode
of spreading.
Stationary rack:
This machine has basically two uprights fixed at the end of the table. A steel bar is passed through
the fabric roll and two spreaders, one on each side of the table, pulls the fabric from one end of the
table to the end of the spread length. After the fabric ply is aligned and weighted at the end, the
spreaders then smooth out any ridges or wrinkles in the fabric and align the fabrics with respect to
any one side of the fabric. These kinds of spreading are preferably used for F/O/W, N/O/W fabrics
but are not suited for N/U/D modes of spreading.
Drop-In unwinder:
This equipment has a cradle with rollers that enclose the fabric roll. It is most commonly used
when the tube in the fabric roll is crushed or too small for the steel bar in a stationary rack.
Rolling rack:
In the case of a rolling rack machine, it is understood that it rolls down the table length with the
fabric roll kept on it. The entire arrangement sits on a rail mounted on both edges of the table and
the wheels roll over it. Similar to other rolling machines, the wheels on the far side of the machine
ride on the top of the opposite edge of the table. The rolling rack is preferably used for F/O/W,
N/O/W, F/F and N/U/D spreading. This method has no tension control on the fabric, hence apart
from smoothing out wrinkles and aligning the fabric edges, the spreader must cautiously unroll the
fabric slightly ahead of the speed that the machine is advanced.
Turntable:
It is another manually operated spreading machine. Similar to the rolling rack, it is manually
pushed down the table, and there is no control over fabric tension like the rolling rack. Conversely,
as the fabric roll is fixed on a rack that can easily be rotated, the turntable is ultimate for F/F,
N/O/W, F/O/W and N/U/D modes of spreading.
Semi-automatic rolling rack with electric eye and catchers:
Semi-automatic spreading machines are designed with electric eye edge sensors that use a servo-
motor to move the rack side to side to align the fabric selvedge on the control side of the table.
Moreover, for F/O/W, N/O/W spreading at one end, and for F/F, N/O/W spreading at both ends, a
mechanical catcher device is used.
It has a drive motor and end switches that allow the machine to automatically drive itself from
beginning to the end of the table and back. The machine can be fitted with an end cutter that would
also automatically cut off the end for F/O/W, N/O/W spreading. The fundamental components in
this machine consist of carriage, wheels travelling in guide rails at the top edge of the table, a fabric
support and guide collars to aid the perfect unrolling of the fabric as shown in Figure-2. An
advanced version of the spreading machines consists of a platform for the spreader to walk, a motor
to drive the carriage, an automatic ply catcher and cutting device, a ply counting device, automatic
ply alignment system using photoelectric sensors and alignment shifters, a turntable and a positive
drive for the fabric support which is synchronised with the spreading speed to minimise the fabric
tension during spreading.
Tubular knit fabrics create an exceptional challenge during spreading. Since two fabric layers are
being kept on the table from the roll concurrently, a frame is inserted inside the fabric tube to
control both layers as they traverse along the machine and avoid folding of fabric. Positive feed
roll arrangement minimizes the tension in the fabric during spreading.