Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
KSA-Technopak
• Process Flow 03
• Process Planning 09
• Factory Capacity Planning 10
• Concept of Industrial Engineering Department 13
• Product Analysis 18
• Balancing 21
• Production Follow Up 25
• Maintenance Guidelines 29
• Cost Control and Incentive Plan 37
• Quality Procedures in Sewing Area 52
RECEIPT OF ORDER
PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING
BULK
AUDITS DONE AT
CUTTING VARIOUS STAGES
OF PRODUCTION,
SEWING TOP/PRS
SAMPLES SENT
FINISHING TO BUYER AS PER
REQUIREMENTS.
PACKING
FINAL AUDIT
SHIPMENT OF GOODS
• RECEIPT OF ORDER
o Receipt of an order means final confirmation of the order from the buyer.
o Since, this is the final confirmation it is done by means of a legal document
called a PO (purchase order) or an FC (fabric commitment)
§ PO (purchase order) – this is a legal document stating the quantity,
delivery, price, style no, buyer, vendor details. On receipt of a PO it is
very important that the merchandiser checks all details and confirms
that they are correct like – quantity, delivery date, price, style no, style
description, color no & reference if mentioned, shipment mode,
shipment port, vendor address, buyer address.
§ FC (fabric commitment) – fabric commitment is a legal document
confirming that the buyer will be buying the said quantity of a
particular fabric. A garment style no need not be mentioned on this
document as it is a commitment only for buying fabric. This kind of a
legal document is used by the buyer when there are very probable
chances of change in the style or the same fabric is being used in a
number of styles and the buyer has still not decided on the quantity to
be purchased in each of the styles. Hence in such a situation the buyer
gives a block booking for fabric.
o Once the order is received four different activities are started off
simultaneously. These activities are – preparing a detailed T&A, Fabric
Ordering, Trim Ordering, fit cycle and sample approvals.
• FABRIC ORDERING
• TRIM ORDERING
A similar process as done for the fabric is done for trims. The factory can call
in trims for sampling and these are called as PROMO TRIMS.
• PP SAMPLE
• SIZE SET
Once PP sample is approved the nest step is to make a SIZE SET. All the fit
samples and the PP samples are in the medium size, now the medium size is
graded into the different sizes as per the purchase order. The basic purpose of
size set is to ensure that grading between sizes is correct.
In this meeting everybody concerned with the style sits together to make sure
that everybody is on the same page and understands the product. Hence, this
meeting has the merchandiser, production in-charge, cutting, finishing, fabric
in-charge, line supervisor, pattern master, sample master etc. All tentative
problems are discussed and solutions sought to execute the order smoothly.
• PILOT RUN
Once pre-production meeting is done the factory does PILOT RUN. Factory
cuts 100 – 200 garments based on the order quantity. The pilot run is done on
the assembly line and is aimed at ensuring that the operators of the assemble
line understand the required quality levels. This is very essential since all
sample prior to the pilot run (fit samples, PP & size set) are made in the
sampling unit.
Once PILOT RUN is approved the factory goes into bulk production. In line and
interim inspections are preformed during the production process to ensure that the
final product quality meets the required quality level.
Once 80 – 90 % of the goods are packed a pre-final audit is done. This helps in taking
corrective action if required before the final audit. Generally since the final audit
happens very close to the shipment date, the pre-final gives factory a chance to amend
problems if any.
The last is the FINAL AUDIT. This is the last checkpoint before shipment. All aspects
(packing, packaging, measurement, construction & visuals) are evaluated. Once the
garments adhere to the required quality standards in all the parameters the shipment is
passed and then the shipment is moved to the logistic team.
Now the merchandiser interacts with the logistic department, takes the shipment
schedule and sends the same to the customer.
Introduction
The ability to meet increasingly stringent delivery commitments while also maximizing
profits is critical to any company's success in today's global business environment.
Every season, fashion/apparel companies must continually design and develop new lines and
collections to keep retailers interested and spur consumer sales. Being able to meet delivery
dates and quickly respond to market trends is critical, increasing the need for more accurate
forecasting, planning and scheduling.
These goals can only be achieved if a company recognizes the critical role played by planning
and scheduling in the manufacturing and distribution processes. Poor planning costs money -
orders are delayed, priority orders are overlooked, sales and customers are lost, and the level
of obsolescent inventory increases.
Effective planning relies on rapid, accurate and up-to-date information, efficient
communications and the ability to make fast and informed decisions, as well as to realistically
predict the outcome of those decisions.
This is a very important tool and helps in decision making while confirming an order. By
planning the capacities of the production facility, the merchandising division comes to know
the exact production slot available before confirming an order.
The label on a denim pant says “Made in Pakistan” but it is quite possible that the fabric came
from China, Zippers and trims came from Hong Kong and the cutting, sewing, finishing,
inspection & packing happened in Pakistan.
When several organizations across countries have to work together to produce a single
garment, co-ordination of production schedules becomes a necessity. The real challenge lies
in planning production schedules in a manner that allows reasonable utilization of factory at
all given point of times. It is not only the garment manufacturing units that need to plan the
factory capacities, but also the fabric and trim suppliers in order to deliver the goods on time.
This coordinated planning should also be flexible to respond quickly to unforeseen changes
and that is the most difficult challenge.
The most common question is how do we plan and calculate capacity when the company does
multi style products?
The following parameters have to be calculated to ascertain the factory production capacity.
• SAM is the total time taken by a 100% efficient operator to perform a particular job /
operation.
• The Industrial Engineering department by means of Time & Motion study calculates
SAM.
• Once SAM has been calculated the operator efficiency level is determined. This can be
illustrated by the below example:
• Similarly line efficiencies can also be calculated. In this case the total available hours are
calculated and this include the hours worked by operators and helpers in the line.
• By combining the efficiencies of all lines in a factory, the Factory Efficiency is
ascertained. The below example illustrates how the calculation is done.
LINE 1 LINE 2
Style A B
SAM 20 minutes 30 minutes
No of Operators 60 40
No of helpers 15 10
Total available time 75x8x60 50x8x60
36000 minutes 24000 minutes
Hence,
Total available time for the factory = 36000 + 24000 = 60000 minutes
Total SAM’s produced by the factory = 24000 + 15000 = 39000 minutes
Factory Efficiency = (SAM’s produced / Available minutes) x 100
=(39000/60000) x 100
= 65%
A 500 machine factory employees a workforce of 600 people (operators & helpers). The
factory on an average works for 26 days in a month, 8 hours shift per day.
The average factory efficiency as calculated over a period of time is – 60%
No of garments that the factory can produce = Capacity / SAM of the garment
Based on the above calculation Factory Capacity can be determined for any product, if the
below information is available:
• SAM of the garment
• Average Factory Efficiency
• Total workforce
• Working hours / shift / day
The industrial engineering department role and responsibilities are defined on the following
notes along with a standard form set.
Department Specification
a) Overall Responsibility
b) Key Tasks
- Product Analysis
- Production Planning
The policies are farmed in the light of planning techniques and strategies, which
have been developed for particular plan. The important steps in production
planning are:
- Performance Development
a) Standardisation
You can appreciate the need for standard convocations in managing your
department. Think of confusion that would result if each operator on a job
performed his or her work differently from anyone else. Suppose quality
specifications changed every day so that what passed yesterday rejected today.
b) Production Scheduling
In order to pay employees fairly, we need to know the value of the work
they produce, Since part of engineering function is to measure work.
d) Prevention of Chaos
- Operator training
- Maintenance
- It easy for the operator to understand and to calculate his or her pay.
- The plant must have an adequate incentive between the base rate and
the minimum rate.
- Off standard time (machine delay, waiting time, sample time etc.)
must not affect incentive earnings.
Better production methods is the prerequisite for reducing the work content and
involved primarily the unnecessary movement on the part of materials or
operatives by substituting good methods for poor one.
Standard time has been defined as `the total time in which the job should be
completed at standard performance’. Standard time express the total time a job
will take at standard performance, i.e., work content, contingency allowance for
delay, unoccupied time, and interference allowance, where applicable.
- Continuous Improvement
Constantly monitor operator performance against time standard and targets and
take action to improve performance and eliminate causes of under performance.
Give some targets to operators tell them about the target clearly and check their
performance against the target, give continuous feedback to the operator about
his or her performance. It will take very important part to motivate an operator.
Ø Operation Bulletin
It should cover all operations that can be directly related to single unit of a
product e.g.
§ Capacity planning
§ Methods engineering
§ Line planning
§ Performance measurement
§ Manpower planning
§ Investment appraisal
§ Incentive payment
§ Factory loading
Ø Method Description
In order that the operation selected for method study may be visualised in the entirety,
with a view to improving them by subsequent critical analysis, it is essential to have
means of placing on records all the necessary facts of the existing method. There may
be different way to method description such as charts & phonographic or electronics
methods of recording etc.
Hand charts are especially useful when work is confined to a single workplace and
consist of the use of the hands and arm as in our case.
A two-handed process chart is made of two columns in which are recorded the
movements of the left hand and right hand respectively.
Activities are interrelated by the spacing between the movements of each hand so that
simultaneous movements by both hands appear opposite each other.
Movements of two feet if any can be recorded by making two additional columns.
Ø Quality Specification
It is a system where you meet the production expectations and you can find the same amount
of work in process in every operation at any point in the day. To be able to achieve this is
extremely difficult. If we choose to have balanced inventories at the end of every day that will
prove to be a reasonably difficult challenge.
How do you keep all operations producing at the same rate? Well this is very difficult since
operator’s skills vary. We are able to balance using Utility operators that “fill holes” in
production. We also try to keep operators at the expected level of production or higher if
possible.
Well we can start by determining how many operators for each operation are needed for a
determined level of production. After this we need to determine how much WIP we need to
anticipate production problems. KSA recommends a 1-hour inventory level for each
operation. A good range would be from 30 min to 120 min inventory level. Any variation
outside this range should be avoided. A variation of this magnitude signifies an unbalanced
line and should be looked into immediately.
We balance the production line for a number of reasons. Some of these reasons are:
It is very important that all supervisors put balancing the line in their daily plans every day.
There are a number of tools that can be used for balancing. These are applied according to the
plant’s needs.
The most basic ones are Production Sheets, the Daily production report, the inventory levels
by operation and the Production Boards.
The operation can produce more than the Keep the operators where they are but
goal but right now you have accumulated remove some of them when the inventory
inventory in front of the operation. level is back to normal. If there is only one
operator then have him reduce the
inventory to a normal level and meet
his/her quota then put him to work on
another operation.
The operation can regularly produce more Remove resources and place them in other
than the goal and the inventory is at a operations
normal level now.
The operation can regularly produce more Move some resources from the current
than the goal and the inventory is currently operation to a previous one.
below its normal level.
The operation has the required capacity but Make sure that the operators are working at
inventory is high at this point full capacity and transfer some resources to
this operation temporarily
The operation regularly meets the quota set Do nothing. This is your ideal situation.
by production and the inventory is at a Keep the operators working at full capacity
normal level and the inventory at a normal level.
The operation has required production but (Something is causing the limited supply to
at this point inventory is at a lower than this operation.) You should transfer
normal level resources to the previous operation but
examine it to find out what is causing the
imbalance.
The operation has low production and the (This is a bad but not unusual situation)
inventory is high Transfer resources to this operation and
make sure the operators are at full capacity
doing a bundle by bundle follow-up.
The operation has low production but the Transfer resources to this operation but
inventory is at a normal level make sure the operators are at full capacity
doing a bundle by bundle follow-up.
The operation has low production but the (Something is causing the limited supply to
WIP is lower than normal this operation.) Investigate the previous
operation but transfer resources to this one
so that the next operation is not affected
Transfer OUT
Transfer IN Transfer IN +
after WIP is
temporarily BBB Follow-up
normal
WIP
Transfer OUT to
Transfer OUT to previous operation Transfer IN +
previous Temporarily + Study previous
operation Study previous operation
operation
LOW
"Follow up" means that someone "checks and Stays with" something until the desired results
have been achieved. Many worthwhile plans and projects have failed because someone did
not follow up. So for the purposes of this training, follow up means to stay on top of
something until the desired results are achieved."
In an apparel plant, the supervisor's concern for follow up is related to operators performance.
The desired situation is to have all operators performing at or above the 100 percent level.
However, this is not usually the case. In order to move towards the desired state, follow up is
required.
Relating back to the capacity study sample, the over lock operator showed a capacity of 96
percent. However, one fact that was unknown at the time of the study was that during the prior
week, she had a capacity of 116 percent. Her capacity dropped 20 percentage points from one
week to another. Why? The answer to this question cannot be answered until follow up
occurs, at which time someone will find out what is going on with the operator. The most
widely used operator follow up is bundle by bundle follow up, which will be discussed In the
following section.
During observations, any problems or difficulties should be noted. Talking with the operator
is a good way to find out how things are going, as is watching several operators performing
the same operation. Anything the operator does especially well or especially poorly should be
noted, as this information can be used later.
Perhaps the most common use of follow up (at least by engineers) is to prove a new quota. In
other words, the quota will be proved if the operator performs well when compared to the new
quota. Very often operators have a psychological resistance to change. It is essential to get the
operators to overcome this psychological barrier, and that can be done through follow up and
showing the operators that changes can be made satisfactorily.
3. Spot Troubles
The bundle by bundle form of follow up is the best for operators who have the capacity to
perform at 100 percent because it can yield quick results. There are several other forms that
are useful in bringing operators up to full capacity:
It is extremely important to check back when the time period is up and reassign goals based
on performance during the previous period.
IP is made up of all garments and their parts that are not completely finished. For example a
bundle of shirts that has everything attached but has no bottom hem.
We can measure WIP in Units or in units of time. For example, if we know that an operation
X takes 0.5 minutes per unit to process and we have 5 bundles of 12 units each then we have
30 minutes of WIP for that operation (5 X 12 X 0.5).
In some factories you can find some operations that have days of inventory waiting to be
processed! This is unacceptable for many reasons.
There are two cost areas that can be reduced if WIP is controlled:
• Investment in inventory
Inventory is money invested in raw materials. When we don’t move the goods through
the plant quickly we are affecting cash flow directly.
Low throughput time permits better co-ordination between sales and production. It
also permits a quicker turnaround on which improves cash flow. Low cycle times give
manufacturers the ability to handle multiple styles.
Clients are looking for manufacturers that can meet production schedules, that can handle
multiple styles, and since they want to invest as little as possible in inventory, manufacturers
that can handle low inventories. Only factories that work with low WIP will be able to sell
their services.
Managing WIP:
1) Production planning
This requires planning from marketing and sales to determine what will sell and what
needs to be produced and when. This provides the basis to determine how many operators
and machines will be needed.
3) Production Build-up
Careful consideration should be given to loading the production lines. If you feed into the
line more product that can be processed you will overload the line with work that will just
sit stagnant.
4) Balancing
Even if you load the line based on its capacity, you might find the inventory accumulating
due to an unbalanced production. Absenteeism and turnover can greatly affect the line’s
balance. A change in style and bad cutting are two other factors that can put a line off-
balance. To keep a line balanced you need information on the inventory levels. To help
regain balance in an unbalanced situation you can use Utility operators, operator transfers
and overtime.
In order to keep control over WIP and to keep the cycle times low you need to have cuts
go as close as FIFO as possible. For this reason strict control must be placed on the
tracking of cuts as they flow through the production floor.
When a mechanic is called for help with a machine a procedure should be followed.
Following an established procedure will reduce Machine Delay time, reducing the cost related
to it. It will help the operator earn more money, and it will save the mechanic valuable time.
Requirements
Mechanic
Daily:
• Lubricate all machines specially if the operator cannot do it
• Check appropriate supply of air, oil, vapour, and electricity
• Check regularly used shop tools
• Report to the Executive any negligent action on the operator’s part
Weekly:
• Check all machines and remove with brush/air/tweezers all foreign objects when
necessary (when using air to clean take care not to stain WIP with oil)
• All oil deposits should be free of foreign objects
• All machines should have the adequate oil level
• Order all necessary parts for adequate inventory
• Order and stock necessary needles and bobbins
• Review machine cards and report to manager any excessive use of parts, needles,
or off-standard time
• Keep all used equipment functioning properly
• Keep extra equipment in working conditions ready to replace used equipment
• Keep all necessary shop supplies to adequate level
Operator
Daily:
• Remove all threads around the work area with a brush or with tweezers
• Clean excess oil from machine specially the needle point.
• Check all oil level meters
• Oil when necessary
• Turn motor off when machine not in use
• Leave a piece of cloth under the needle when machine is not in use
Executive
Daily:
• Check that operators are following their daily maintenance responsibilities
• Make sure that all safety measures are being followed.
• Refill the needle stock box with the appropriate needles
• Place all broken needles in the appropriate container. DO NOT leave them in any
other place.
• Check how much thread is being consumed and make sure it is not being wasted.
• Make sure all machines are threaded correctly and that the threads are not too close
to the machine’s pulley.
Possible answers:
1. Needle thread breaking
2. Bobbin or looper thread breaking
3. All threads break
4. Skipped stitches
5. Stitch formation is unusual
6. Needle breaks
7. Irregular feeding of material
• shirring
• stretching
• feeding to the side
8. Oil leak on machine or over fabric
9. Uncomfortable set-up for the operator
• The pedal is not located properly
• Presser foot lever is not located properly
• Check the type of thread being used and check for proper threading
• Adequate thread and needle type for the operation
• Thread cone is placed properly (even level) over holder
• Thread guides don’t produce any unusual friction to thread
• Guides threaded correctly
• All tensioning plates threaded correctly
• All needles/bobbins/loopers are threaded properly
• Needle point is not broken
Look!
• Excessive oil concentrated on one area of the machine
• Unusual machine or motor movements
• Excessive threads, fabric rags around sewing area
• Smoke
Listen!
Touch!
• To feel unusual vibrations in motors or engines
• To make sure that the motor is turned off when not in use
• To feel unusual heat from the machines
• To check worn parts for shaking or looseness
Smell!
• To see if there is smoke due to
• overheated metal
• electrical insulation burned
• Burnt oil
• Burning thread
• Electrical parts on fire
• Solenoids
• Cables
• Transformers
• Rectifiers
• Unusual odours
The Operator can often help himself/herself when the machine is not working properly. The
following list shows solutions to common problems. Following the advice can many times
save the time wasted waiting for the mechanic.
Problem Solution
Top thread tension is too tight Loosen the tension by one turn
Machine is improperly threaded Check for proper threading
Thread is not placed through tension rings Check for proper threading
Thread is twisted in guide posts Check for proper threading
Broken or bent tension spring Inspect the action of spring
Thread is not placed through guides Check for proper threading
Needle bent or burred Try a new needle
Bad cone of thread Try another cone
Skipped stitches
All the standard rates for operations are based on a machine that can do so many stitches per
inch and can do them in a specified time. For this reason all machines for the same operation
need to have the SPI’s and RPM’s adjusted to a specified value. Having machines adjusted
differently will not be fair to the operators. A machine’s SPI’s need to be checked often as
they change depending on fabric and number of plies and it is also easy for the operator to
change. RPM’s are not adjusted as often since they are a function of the pulley size and as
long as the pulley is not changed the machine will remain within ±150 RPM. (although this
may vary a little more depending on the belt)
To be able to control the company’s costs it is necessary to identify them and identify the
cause. For this reason the company keeps track of how much time the sewing machine delays
the sewing time. This category is called Machine Delay (MD). During this time the operator
is not able to work normally due to machine failure. For this reason the company will make
sure he or she is not penalised in efficiency points. To be able to manage this cost category
more effectively we have a set procedure:
• The operator informs the supervisor that he/she is having trouble with the machine
• The supervisor checks the machine
• make any quick adjustments to the machine if possible
• Call the mechanic if necessary
• Take the employee to a temporary location either to another workstation where
he/she can continue with the work
• If this is not possible then
• to another area where he/she will wait for the machine and mark the production
sheet with MD off-standard category
• The mechanic repairs the machine
• The operator returns to his/her workstation
• The operator sews a specified number of garments in front of the mechanic
• If the machine is working properly then you mark the operator’s production sheet and put
him/her back on standard time
• The supervisor moves the work back from the temporary workstation
Fabric 60-70%
CMP 15-30%
Others 5%
There are two main areas that contribute to more than the expected cost of manufacturing.
First, Costs related to personnel and second Costs due to inefficient material utilisation.
1. Operator performance
When the waste of time is intentional, it means the supervisor does not control his workers.
When it is unintentional, it usually means the workers are not properly trained or supervised
in methods, or the flow of production needs closer attention.
Excessive conversation is a double waste of time. The supervisor must distinguish between a
natural amount of conversation between workers, which is helpful to morale and good feeling,
and excessive conversation, which is destructive to good discipline and morale. The wise
The operator performance report shows the money spent on direct labour and the value
received from direct labour. It measures the performance of the management & supervision in
controlling these costs. It also measures the performance of the operators.
Make-up
Value of operator's work
Output
Cost relationships
2. Production flow
Identify the bottleneck operation. Ensure that there is always feeding for this operation. A
minute lost on the bottleneck operation is a minute lost on the entire line.
All re-cuts and repairs should be made promptly, so that "cuts" will be completed on schedule
and "boxing" will not be delayed because of incomplete assortments.
Absenteeism and labour turnover also affect the flow of work. Anticipate "quits" as early as
possible, so that someone else can be trained for the job before the quit occurs. Interview each
operator who voluntarily quits; in order to obtain first-hand information on the reason.
3. Quality
Some supervisors depend entirely upon general watchfulness of the work and workers to
secure good workmanship - but often good workmanship is not enough. It is not sufficiently
thorough to accomplish the necessary results.
The supervisor should schedule time so that each operator's work gets checked, after having
given special attention to the workers who are inclined to produce poor quality.
When changes are made in materials, be especially watchful that folds, feeds, stitches etc. are
proper with the new material. Sometimes the condition of equipment is a cause of poor
quality.
When the flow of work causes idle periods in the worker's time and she has time to think of
things outside her work, the average quality of work is lower than when there is ample flow of
work. Be especially watchful for poor quality when this condition exists.
The supervisor's attitude towards the job will make a big difference. If his manner indicates
that he is not concerned with the quality of an operation, the worker is not likely to be much
concerned either.
Ensure that a safe environment exists. Guard against workers adopting practices that are
harmful to good order. These practices are often because of disregard by the worker of what
she thinks is an unimportant work-rule. (Example - putting finished work, materials, thread
etc. in some place other than the right place.) Continued neglect quickly forms a bad work
habit. Constant vigilance will lead to the correction of such conditions.
Before discussing how to control direct labour costs, we must be sure we all know what we
are talking about, define some terms, and establish some benchmarks.
The basic document we work from in looking for D.L. cost is a D.L. cost report. Some
companies refer to this as an effectiveness report, a direct labour analysis, a plant performance
report, etc., your company refers to it as manufacturing cost analysis.
Regardless of what you call it, all D.L. cost reports contain the same basic information.
Purpose of report is to show the money spent on direct labour and the value received from
direct labour.
C. Cost Relationships
Operator Performance
Supervising Methods
• Understand thoroughly the best methods to use on each operation, and see that the
workers use them; See that the trainer and I. E. technician do not overlook anyone.
• Know the possibilities and limitations of the machines used, and see that proper speeds,
stitches, etc., are used. Insure the machine is set up properly prior to sewing/assigning
operators.
• Methods have been standardised and these standard practices should not be changed
without a corresponding change in the piecework standard.
• When methods are changed, make certain that all operators are instructed properly and
follow-up to make certain that the instructions are followed. If the change is extensive, get
a trainer to give the instruction and follow-up, so that they will be more complete.
• Where changes in design of the product occur, operations and methods should be worked
out and approved on one or two bundles before the remainder of the cut is put into
production. This method will often save a Bottleneck in production later.
The greatest waste of all is the waste of time, because it wastes machines and lowers the
productive capacity of the department. Some of it may be intentional, deliberate loafing,
excessive conversation or unnecessary absences from work. Much of it however is
unintentional-time, which is improperly used, resulting in more time and energy being
consumed than is necessary for the amount of work being produced.
When the waste of time is intentional, it means that the supervisor does not control her
workers - and when it is unintentional, it usually means that the workers are not properly
trained or supervised in methods or the flow of production needs closer attention.
Excessive conversation is a double waste of time because it also wastes the time of the worker
being “visited”,,. The supervisor must distinguish between a natural amount of conversation
between workers, which is helpful to morale and good feeling and excessive conversation,
which is destructive to good discipline, and morale. The wise supervisor does not frown on all
conversation between workers, but does curb it if it becomes excessive.
Production Flow
Maintaining Production
• See that there is an adequate supply of work between each two operations, to keep
operators from slowing down or waiting for work.
• Watch for "drops" in production on each operation because of absentees or other reasons,
and immediately take the necessary steps to bring it back to normal before the following
operation is affected.
• "Switch" operators if and when required to maintain balance. Anticipate "unbalance" and
take countermeasures to assure maximum production without transferring operators, if
possible. (This calls for compromises, as you usually cannot achieve both. You must
decide if "switching" her to another job where you sacrifice efficiency and increase
"make-up" - or working overtime on the operation behind schedule - or asking for
permission to cross-train more "operators".).
• See that necessary supplies, equipment and information for jobs are on hand before they
are needed.
• Keep informed as to the work schedule for your section and see that it is stored in the
proper bins before it is needed.
• All recuts and repairs should be made promptly so that "cuts" will be completed on
schedule and swiping of finished garments will not be delayed because of incomplete
assortments.
When production is excessive, transfer the appropriate operator to other work so that the
remaining operators are assigned so that there will be sufficient work and the opportunity to
keep their earnings up to normal (with discretion towards moving trainees and the effect of
transfers on performance).
Do not change operators from job to job any more than is necessary to avoid running short of
work - train and use relief or utility operators instead, so that regular operators will not lose
their efficiency on their regular operations.
Keep in close touch with the trainers and technicians concerning the progress of learners,
fitting the learner's increase in production into your plans.
Make certain that all workers get full credit for any lost time that occurs, but make sure that
they go back to work as quickly as possible so that lost time will be held to a minimum.
See that anyone transferred to other work or working on unmeasured work uses the best
methods and extends a reasonable effort. This rule applies to utility operators, shiftees and
retrainees.
Parts to be sewn should fit without having to be cut, trimmed or stretched by the operator.
Any need for trimming or stretching should be reported to the quality manager.
Top management of a plant can set up certain standards of quality, but they must be applied to
the work and maintained by the supervisors. A supervisor has the responsibility for good
workmanship. Under usual conditions, the quality of workmanship should take-up most of a
supervisor's time. Just as the quality of a worker can be measured by the quality of her work,
the quality of a supervisor is measured by the quality of work produced in her section.
Watchfulness is the keynote of good quality.
Some supervisors depend entirely upon general watchfulness of the work and workers to
secure good workmanship - but often general watchfulness is not enough. General
watchfulness is not sufficiently thorough to accomplish the necessary results.
• Schedule your own time so that each operator's work gets checked, after you have given
special watchfulness to the workers who are inclined to produce work of poor quality.
• When changes are made in materials, be especially watchful that folders, feeds, stitches,
etc., are working properly with the new material.
• Sometimes the poor condition of machines or equipment is the cause of poor quality.
Checking of machines should be done regularly and often enough to maintain them in good
condition.
• The supervisor's own attitude toward the job will be a big influence. If her manner
indicates that she isn't much concerned with the quality of an operation, the worker isn't
likely to be much concerned either.
Waste of Materials
• There should never be any waste of power, light, heat, oil, water, threads, pins, needles or
any other supply. Proper storage facilities for some of these items and watching to see that
these facilities are used will help to conserve them.
• Surplus accessories such as bindings, hooks and eyes, elastic and straps should be returned
to stock and not allowed to accumulate in bins or workboxes at the machines.
• Recuts should be used sparingly and should be kept locked up when not being used.
Review recut ordering procedure.
• When stitching must be ripped out, the supervisor should see that the method used will not
tear or cut the part.
Work Force
It is important that the supervisors continually look ahead and foresee the relation between the
number of workers needed at present and those needed for future production.
• Anticipate the need for more workers due to changes in design or production requirements
and take the necessary measures to provide them as far ahead of time as possible so that
they will be properly trained when needed.
• The supervisor should report possible “quits" to the production manager as soon as she
learns of them so that measures may be taken to train someone for the job before the quit
occurs.
• Interview each worker who voluntarily quits; in order to obtain First-hand information as to
the reason.
On the other hand, remember that everyone is not suited for this type of work. Be able to
detect the Square pegs" and do not waste time trying to fit them into round holes". These
workers are the ones, who in spite of everyone's efforts including their own, develop to about
75 percent and then stop. Discussing such problems with your assistance and supervisors will
bring out the facts and help you arrive at the best decision.
Conditions
• See that fans, light, heat, etc. are properly regulated at all times for the comfort of the
workers. Restrooms, drinking fountains, etc. must be kept clean and sanitary. Aisles and
spaces around the machines should be kept clear, and equipment and bins should be
cleaned regularly.
• Good housekeeping can't be accomplished “with a lick and a promise, nor can you have it
by a Good cleaning once in a while." It requires constant attention to the little details. You
must secure the co-operation of the workers -- work through them -- set a good example for
them to follow.
• Guard against workers adopting practices that are harmful to good order. These practices
are often due to thoughtfulness -- or to disregard by the worker of what she thinks is an
unimportant work rule. She will begin to put finished work, materials, thread, etc., in some
place other than the right place. Continued neglect quickly forms a bad work habit.
Constant vigilance by the supervisor will lead to the correction of such conditions before
habits are formed. It will be easier to do so then, and it will not put as severe a strain upon
good working relations between the supervisor and her workers.
An Incentive plan is to recognise through pay, a fair days wage for fair day's work.
An incentive plan is simply a means of paying a person based on his or her individual efforts
and abilities. Another way to say this that each person is paid according to his or her
performance. In most cases we automatically think of incentive pay being based on the
amount produced, but this does not always hold true. In some cases quality is the basis of an
incentive plan. In other cases it might be material utilisation. There are different incentive
plans for supervisors but the common factor in all plans is that pay is based on performance of
some type.
Incentive pay is very much a part of life. How many times have you heard stories about men
born into poverty eventually becoming millionaires?
There is little argument about the concept of incentive plans for determining pay. Most people
agree that people who perform the best should be paid the most. But every incentive plan has
to have some yardstick to measure performance against, and it is in this area that
disagreements often arise. For production workers the yardstick is often the quota for the job
performed, and there are constant arguments as to whether or not job quotas are correct.
The alternative to an incentive plan is to pay everyone a straight hourly rate regardless of
performance.
The morale of those who were normally high performers would certainly be hurt if they see
lower performers receiving their same rate of pay. The incentive to work hard would be
severely hurt if each person was paid the same thing each hour regardless of how well he did.
We can agree that incentive plans are a fair way to pay employees and they are far superior to
straight time work as an influence on productivity.
1. Key Points
• Where does it get out of makeup?
• When does it pay base rate?
• At what point does it break even with a regular straight incentive plan? (Split plans
will always break even at double the guarantee if using 50 percent as base).
Now that we've talked some about the ideas behind incentive plans, let's look at some specific
examples of how different types of incentive systems are used in our industry.
Regardless of the job done in setting the standard, an engineering installation will not succeed
if the incentive system is not right.
Straight Incentive
2.00
100%
Incentive Factor does not affect grading. We are simply using a lower production standard in
lieu of a higher base rate. One reason for this is the low minimum to base spread.
1. Jump Base
On a jump base system, operators earning less than 100 percent have their earned hours
multiplied by one base rate, and those above 100 percent receive a higher base rate.
This creates an incentive for operators close to, but below 100 to "get up there." It also causes
operators who ran 102 percent on Monday and have a streak of bad luck on Tuesday,
knocking them to, say 87 percent, to feel - "What's the use of working hard on Wednesday,
Thursday, and Friday can't possibly make up the loss sufficiently to get into the jump bonus
class."
Most jump base plans use 100 percent as the jump point. This is not inherent in the plan since
the jump could take place at any point.
The increase in pay is usually a fixed amount (e.g., Rs.5 or Rs10 per hour)
100 %
Jump base plans are not used too often today. The usual practice today is to simply adjust the
base rate both above and below 100 percent.
Non-repetitive operations are subject to greater swings in conditions than are repetitive
operations. For this reason, we usually recommend a form of split incentive.
Many non-repetitive operations occur in cutting groom and warehousing installations. These
operations are normally covered by multivariable rates. Use of a split incentive will dampen
the swings in performance caused by changes in conditions on these operations.
Fifty/fifty refers to the manner in which the operator will be paid: 50 percent of base pay plus
50 percent of all coupon dollars earned.
22.0
11.0
100 %
Operator is paid on split incentive, but is paid straight incentive for a portion of her
performance. (Typical example is from 100% to 120% on straight).
One word of caution: The standards must be developed accurately regardless of the incentive
plan to be used. The split is only used to compensate for conditions which vary widely. The
Whenever an operator has to be transferred from her regular operation, she can be paid at
Average, Minimum, or at Base. What is lacking in all three of these plans?
Some jobs will have to be paid at minimum, average, or base, depending on whether she has
been transferred for company convenience or for her convenience.
Example: Assume base rate is Rs1.75/hour. If an operator averages 105 percent on her regular
operation, her average rate of pay will be Rs1.84 per hour.
If this woman is transferred on Tl (60.50 plan) and performs at 80 percent, the results will be:
D. Supplementary Plans
1. Some form of the above may be useful during periods of change or retraining. After the
change is past, return to straight incentive.
2. In high style jobs, because of many changes, it may be necessary to use a supplemental plan
all of the time.
E. Diminishing Bonus
Various forms of diminishing bonus are sometimes used for transfers or for retraining
purposes. Examples are 65/50 for a fixed period of time, then 60/50, etc. Others are +15
percent, +10 percent, and +5 percent to pay.
We will discuss retraining bonus in greater detail when we are considering ways of motivating
operators during follow-up.
1. Remember that any incentive system will be only as good as the administration of the
system. Install controls so that plan does not get out of control.
1. Historically, apparel has been a one-base rate industry. The purpose of this topic is to try to
stimulate discussion on the part of the trainees to determine their opinions on the subject.
What happens if two women of equal skill and ability come to work and job openings are
available on Jobs I and IV?
3. One argument in favour of single base rate is that the Job IV woman has a more saleable
skill if she moves to another plant.
Regardless of the type incentive plan used, to be successful the following must hold true:
1. It is easy for the operator to understand and to calculate his or her pay.
2. The plan must have an adequate incentive between the base rate and the minimum rate.
3. Off-standard time (machine delay, waiting time, samples, etc.) must not affect incentive
earnings.
It is estimated that about 90 percent of the workers in the apparel industry are under some type
of incentive plan. Ours is an industry that is still very much people controlled as opposed to
machine controlled and because of this it lends itself well to incentive plans.
The installation of incentive plans has produced benefits for both companies and employees.
Some of the benefits to employees are: Increased earnings, Better job methods from job
analysis, Higher morale, Greater interest in Job.
Let's use a simple example to point this out. Let's say we have an operator performing a job
that we have determined has a fair production standard of 450 pieces per day. This operator is
paid Rs1.80 per hour on a straight timework basis. Using the experienced 65 percent guideline
let's say she does about 293 pieces per day (65 percent of 450).
Therefore, the operator makes more and the company produces more at less cost.
Another genuine value of an incentive system is that there is motivation for the employee to
beat the production standard and make more money. Still, the company benefits when this
happens.
Let's assume in our example another worker beats the production standard of 450 pieces by 10
percent. This means she produces 495 pieces (110 percent X 400) and she is paid Rs2.20 per
hour (110 percent X Rs2.00). In this case:
Therefore, it doesn't cost the company any more money per unit for the operator to make more
money.
Key Pont in incentive system is to remember that any incentive system will be only as good as
the administration of the system. Install controls so that plan does not get out of control. The
objective is to protect earnings not overprotect.
During the production of garments the operator’s finished work is audited in an in-line
inspection. A quality inspector moves from one operator to another at random inspecting a
predetermined number of parts from a finished bundle.
In-process inspector:
Section supervisor:
The supervisor is responsible that the operators in his/her section perform adequately in their
jobs.
• If a quality inspector approaches the supervisor with a defective unit he or she should:
• If necessary review the operator’s card with the operator to see if this was an isolated
occasion or if it is a recurring problem. Try to motivate the operator to continue working
with good quality.
• The supervisor leaves the operator repairing the defects. The supervisor should return
after some time to make sure all work has been inspected and the defects repaired.
• Before the bundles continue to the next operation the supervisor should be sure that there
are no defects in them. All bundles coming from that operator are to be checked by the
quality inspector until three consecutive bundles are free of defects. If there are defects in
the bundles following a rejection, you could say the supervisor is not doing a good job of
ensuring quality in that operation.
100% INSPECTION
At the end of a section there will be an inspection made to all parts exiting the section. The
inspections should be effective in identifying all defects in a garment. To ensure all seams and
quality characteristics are inspected in a short period of time a defined inspection method
should be followed.
The inspection operators should have their forms filled out correctly.
A good source of information to determine the quality performance of the section is the point
of 100% inspection. The section supervisor should check the quality level at the point of
100% inspection periodically.
From the 100% inspection forms the supervisor should analyze what are the 2
operators/operations with the highest defect frequency. For these operators/operations the
With this information the supervisor should address the problems, correct the possible causes
and make plans to prevent them.
The inspection form is totaled 4 times a day so a supervisor can actually see the results of
what he or she has done to stop defects.
QUALITY DRILLS
During this exercise you confirm to the operator the commitment to good quality that the
company has made and motivate him/her to produce with quality.
The contact that a supervisor and the operator have during the Quality Drill is very valuable.
During this time the commitment of everyone to guarantee a job well done is strengthened. At
this time the operator should be encouraged to learn what the requirements for his operation
are and he is complimented if he know them wholeheartedly and works to achieve them every
time.
This exercise should be performed on standard time and at least once a day. If you are having
quality problems with an operator you should increase the frequency of the exercise even to
one exercise an hour.
It is necessary that the trainer and the supervisor explain the importance of the
Quality Drill to the operators stressing that its sole purpose is to help them improve their
quality. The initial resistance by the operators is normal, but as soon as positive results from
the exercise are seen, the operators will take the initiative to do the exercise themselves.