Tart Tart Cookbook Final Copy-Ilovepdf-Compressed

the tart tart
the tart tart

A Modern Food Blog by Linda Xiao
HU3630 Press - Houghton, MI
table of contents
© 2016 HU3630 Press 9 APPETIZERS & SIDES almond macarons 62
pistachio layer cake 64
avocado summer rolls 10
honey cupcakes 66
This book was produced as a course project and is intended for class- sweet potato fries 12
banana bread 68
room and design portfolio use only. Its content has been used for educa- rosemary pork chops 14
peanut butter tarts 70
tional purposes and belongs exclusively to the blog author whose work beet carrot slaw 16
was repurposed for this project. corn pico de gallo 18 73 COLD DESSERTS
goat cheese, grape, & walnut bruschette 20
sour cherry popsicles 74
The content for this book is the property of: brussels sprouts 22
blueberry sour cream ice cream 76
25 SOUPS & SALADS pistachio ice cream 78
Linda Xiao
rocky road ice cream 80
The Tart Tart bean salad with mint & ricotta cheese 26
lemon frozen yogurt 82
www.thetarttart.com citrus salad with rosemary & olives 28
honey ice cream 84
tomato soup 30
rhubarb tiramisu 86
apple salad with walnut & pumpkin seed 32
No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any
cabbage soup 34 89 BEVERAGES
form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or
hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any split pea soup 36
hot chocolate 90
information storage or retrieval system. kale avocado salad 38
citrus pomegranate mint tea 92
41 MAINS ginger peach julep 94
This book was designed by Jessica Boelcke gin thyme lemonade 96
It was printed at Blurb.com. ramps & ricotta gnocchi 42
limeade 98
broccoli rabe & egg pizza 44
blueberry basil vodka gimlet 100
summer greek pasta 46
blood orange lassi 102
shrimp & pork dumplings 48
lambs quarters frittata 50 105 RECEPTACLES &
shakshuka 52 FILLINGS
pappardelle with wild mushrooms 54
candied citrus peel 106
57 BAKED DESSERTS pumpkin brioche 108

homemade farfalle 110
mixed berries galette 58
slow roasted tomatoes 112
yeasted apple cider doughnuts 60
buckwheat crepes 114
brioche hamburger buns 116
about the author
After quitting their jobs in San Francisco to move across the country to New
York City, Linda and her husband decided to ease into their new lives. Without
the demand of a 9-5 job, The Tart Tart came along as a way to express Linda’s
love for food and photography. She likes shooting on a foba, oxford shoes and
drives to out-of-the-way places, and dislikes self-portraits, garbanzo beans, and
winter squashes. On any given Sunday you can find her at the Union Square
Greenmarket, stalking stalks [of celery] and heads [of cabbage]. Otherwise she’ll
probably be trying not to make too big of a mess in her tiny kitchen.
While The Tart Tart may have started out as an exploration of her curiousity
and food, her photography has helped her earn clients such as Martha Stewart
Living, Food & Wine, Bon Appetit, Food Network Magazine, The Oprah Magazine,
Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, and Sabra Hummos Co.
Her blog won a place on Saveur’s list of “Sites We Love 2013” and was a finalist
in the “Saveur Blog 2015 Awards for Best Photography”.
appetizers
& sides
avocado summer rolls DIRECTIONS
Makes 12 – Mostly From Gourmet Live and Chow
Rolls
I’ve been going gluten-free recently and had to break my ban last night. I Fill a pan large enough to contain the rice paper with hot water. Prepare a
guess I didn’t want to be the debbie downer who ordered the salad while moist surface (such as a damp cloth) on which to make the summer rolls.
everyone else was gorging on burgers and fries, you know? These summer Have all the other ingredients ready around your workstation.
rolls, on the other hand, are gluten-free (with the exception of the hoisin Take a sheet of rice paper and submerge it completely in the hot water. Re-
sauce, but you can buy a gluten-free version), and vegan too I guess, and move it immediately—it should still be stiff and easy to handle—and place it
maybe even raw? The rice noodles are cooked, it’s true, but you can easily on the moist surface. Place 3 slices of avocado horizontally across the center
leave them out. of the rice paper, leaving a 1-inch margin on either side. Place 3 mint leaves,
Since summer has officially kicked in—beginning with some minor humid- 3 basil leaves, and 2 sprigs of cilantro on top, across the avocado slices. Grab
ity this week—I’ve been feeling the urge for fresh vegetables and herbs. And a small handful of carrots and place them in two small heaps across the
what could be more perfect than the trifecta of cilantro, Thai basil, and mint? herbs. Do the same with the vermicelli. Finally, roll a piece of lettuce into
Nothing, that’s what. NOTHING. These summer rolls are filled to the brim a cigar shape and place it on top. Go with conventional wisdom and don’t
with earnest plant matter, and are one of the tastiest (and easiest!) foods I’ve stuff your rolls, as the rice paper is quite flimsy!
made recently. Fold the bottom edge of the rice paper over the center mound, then the left
and right edges. Finally, roll the mound upward toward the final edge. Try to
wrap the roll as tightly as possible.
INGREDIENTS Dip in the tahini hoisin sauce and enjoy!
Rolls Tahini Hoison Sauce Tahini Hoisin Sauce

12 sheets rice paper 1
⁄2 cup hoisin sauce (gluten-free Combine all the ingredients and stir until combined.
2 or 3 medium avocados, sliced version
into wedges 1
⁄4 cup tahini
36 mint leaves 1
⁄4 cup water
36 Thai basil leaves (regular basil big squeeze of lime juice
okay)
24 sprigs cilantro
2 or 3 medium carrots, julienned
and chopped into 11⁄2 inch
pieces
3 oz. dried rice vermicelli, cooked
and drained
12 pieces of lettuce (I used Bibb,
halving each big leaf to form 2
pieces)
10 THE TART TART appetizers & sides 11

sweet potato fries DIRECTIONS
Serves 1 Generously - Adapted From The Moveable Feasts Preheat your oven to 400 degrees F.
There is so much discussion on the web about how to achieve that Platonian Slice the sweet potato into sticks that are about the same in size (I aim for
ideal of the faux-deep-fried sweet potato fry. I’m actually more opposed to more than 1⁄4 inch but less than 1⁄2 inch square cross sections). Rinse them
the mess caused by deep-frying than anything else. It’s a proven fact that in a bowl of water and lay them out to dry. When dry, toss the fries in olive
oil spatters rise (or else explain to me why the things I store above the cab- oil, corn starch/semolina/cornmeal, salt, and whatever other spices you’re
inets are perennially covered in a layer of grime), and I try to make it easy using. Lay them out on a baking sheet in one layer (I don’t bother with parch-
for my better half (better because he does the cleanup, you see) so I’ll save ment paper or anything), leaving a little space around each one. Bake about
deep-frying for things like, I dunno, donuts? Churros? They’re worth the 30 minutes
grease-stained stovetop.
Anyway, I got a taste of this raging debate after Googling the topic. Let me
tell you, it is clearly the heyday of the sweet potato fry. People have thought
of everything! To the mushy fry, space them apart while baking, to the soggy
fry, rinse and let them dry before tossing them with oil and seasonings, to
the burned fry and the undercooked fry, cut all your fries the same size. And
most importantly, coat them! Coat them with a thin layer of corn starch or
cornmeal or semolina, which tricks your tastebuds into believing you’re ac-
tually eating something really crispy and, therefore, fried, even if you’re not.
Honestly, I don’t have much more to add. Just follow Amy’s advice. Although
I do love the cornmeal/semolina coating just as much as the corn starch be-
cause it creates this texturally pleasing layer that crunches inside your mouth.
INGREDIENTS
1 sweet potato, washed and Simple Dipping Sauce
scrubbed ¼ cup Greek yogurt,
2 Tbsp olive oil 1 heaping tsp honey
1 Tbsp corn starch, semolina, or A pinch of cinnamon
cornmeal salt, pepper, and other
spices (paprika, cayenne pepper,
cinnamon, cumin, etc.) to flavor

rosemary pork chops DIRECTIONS
Serves 2 - From Big Oven
Pork Chops
These pork chops cook up beautifully. Was it the sage? The rosemary? The Pat dry pork chops and season with salt and pepper.
wonderfully aromatic flavor of the garlic? They were the only three ingredi- Heat the oil on medium in a skillet that will contain the pork chops. When
ents after all, although I also attribute the chops’ satisfying (and not dry!) the oil starts to shimmer, add the sage, rosemary, and garlic, and cook for 2
taste to the hot stove and the lid that kept all the moisture in. to 3 minutes, stirring. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the pork
And yes, I was totally sated afterward. I forget how much I like pork. chops on top of the garlic mix. Cover and let cook undisturbed for about 5
minutes. Flip chops, re-cover the pan, and reduce heat to medium, for anoth-
I decided to cook up some tomatoes as well. I know, it’s blasphemy to apply
er few minutes, until the chops have cooked through.
heat to heirloom tomatoes. But I expect they’ll be in my kitchen pretty much
nonstop for the rest of the summer, so I figured I could spare a few to go
alongside the meat. (but I’ll be damned if I ever do anything to watermelon
other than eat it in freshly-cut slices! I feel very strongly about this.) I’ll at- Tomatoes
tribute this sentiment to Rose Carrarini of Rose Bakery—she seems to have Heat olive oil in medium saucepan and cook onions until softened, about 5
a good eye for preparing vegetables deliciously. minutes.
I love the sweetness of cooked tomatoes. I mean, these guys were tender; they Add garlic, tomatoes, and celery and cook over medium heat for 2 minutes.
melted in my mouth; they accompanied the pork wonderfully. Add water and sage and turn heat to low. Continue cooking until tomatoes
are very soft and liquid has been reduced.
INGREDIENTS
Pork Chops Tomatoes
2 pork chops, bone-in, about 8 2 Tbsp olive oil
ounces 1 medium onion
2 Tbsp olive oil 2 medium tomatoes
2 Tbsp fresh sage, chopped 1 stalk celery
2 Tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 large cloves of garlic, thinly 8 to 10 leaves of sage
sliced 1⁄
2 cup water or stock
salt and pepper to taste

beet carrot slaw DIRECTIONS
Serves 4 - Adapted from Bon Appetit Whisk together the shallots, vinegar, lime juice, soy sauce, ginger, and lime
peel. Let sit for 10 minutes, then slowly whisk in the olive oil. Cover and chill.
So much of what people know about food is derived from their growing-up
experiences. In my particular case, spicy Sichuan fare was often on the menu Lightly toast the ground coriander by stirring it in a pan over low heat until
for dinner. Therefore, I’m a complete beet newb. My impression of these root very aromatic, about 2 minutes. Then combine with the sesame seeds and
vegetables was formed by countless encounters in salad bars: eerie, amor- salt.
phous, almost-pulsating blobs most unnatural in color. I thought they were Shred the carrots and beets. Toss in a light coating of the dressing and 1
dyed in fact, until I questioned the sense behind dying a vegetable an awful tablespoon of the salt mix. Let the slaw marinate for about half an hour.
unpalatable shade of… glistening fuschia.
Toss in more dressing and salt mix to taste. Then enjoy.
Well, it turns out, they’re really really good. Last week, I bought a bunch
from my local farmer’s market and roasted the heck out of them, until the
balsamic glaze I’d brushed them with (you know, just in case I didn’t like
their taste after all) charred and crisped. Their flavor, beneath the sweet-sour
of the vinegar, was oddly pleasant, earthy. Yum. They snuck their way into
many sandwiches after that.
This week, I brazenly decided to experiment a step further and conquer the
Raw Beet. And that’s what I present you with today: a slaw made of shredded
beets and carrots, tossed with a shallot-y, lime-y dressing and topped with
sesame seeds. Let’s just say, there’s no turning back. I’m forever a convert.
INGREDIENTS
Dressing Salt Mix
1 ¾ Tbsp minched shallots ¾ tsp ground coriander
1 ½ Tbsp plus 1 t apple cider 1 Tbsp toasted sesame seeds
vinegar 3⁄
8 tsp salt
1 Tbsp lime juice ½ lb carrots, peeled

½ Tbsp soy sauce 3 medium beets, peeled
½ tsp finely grated ginger
¼ tsp finely grated lime peel
6cup olive oil
1⁄

corn pico de gallo DIRECTIONS
Makes ~ 2 Cups Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil or
parchment paper. Toss the corn with oil, salt, and pepper, and spread it
You might’ve guessed that I have quite an affinity for tart foods, given my evenly on the sheet. Roast for about 20 minutes until the corn turns a golden
blog name and all. But unbeknownst to you, this “like” is actually superseded brown and blisters and pops (and caramelizes!).
quite a bit by my love for all things spicy. It’s part of my heritage. My family
comes from Sichuan, a province in China famous for its spicy women, Sich- Combine the red onion, cilantro, lime juice, jalapeno, tomato, and sugar in
uan peppercorn, and such delights as spicy fried chicken bits, meat/seafood a bowl.
boiled in spicy broth, spicy noodles, mapo style tofu, cold spicy tripe, and When the corn is ready, let it cool, then toss it in the bowl. Let it sit for about
the ultimate, Chongqing hot pot (the red side). half an hour so the flavors can combine.
When you think about it, preparing spicy food, just like eating it, requires
a certain amount of… physical endurance. The ingredients have such inter-
esting(ly painful) defense mechanisms to avoid being eaten. Onions make
your eyes water, limes infiltrate breaches such as hangnails and papercuts,
and jalapeno, well, let’s just say my fingers are still ringing from the memory
of contact.
I was originally intending to make this recipe since we had a couple (gor-
geous) ears of corn lying around, but that idea never took off. The topping
however did.
I was particularly intrigued by the idea of baking corn until it caramelized,
sweetened, and became slightly tacky. So, with a few adjustments, I ended
up making what became a roasted corn pico de gallo, a fresh salsa filled with
the usual suspects: red onion, cilantro, lime juice, tomato, and jalapeno. If
you like heat, I would recommend using the entire jalapeno, including the
seeds, but it’s a move not for the faint of heart. Each mouthful is charged
with flavor. But it’s good, it’s really good, and if you know what’s good for
you, you’ll set it aside and let the flavors mingle for a bit. Then start topping.
INGREDIENTS
3 fresh ears of corn or 2 cups of juice from 2 limes
frozen corn, defrosted 1 jalapeno, destemmed and finely
1 Tbsp olive oil chopped
salt and pepper to taste 1 medium tomato
1 Tbsp red onion, finely chopped 1⁄
2 tsp sugar
2 Tbsp fresh cilantro, finely

chopped

goat cheese, grape, & DIRECTIONS
walnut bruschette
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. In a baking pan, toss the grapes with most
of the thyme, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Pop it in the oven for 10 to 15 min-
utes. In another baking pan, toss the walnuts with some olive oil, and slide it
Serves 2 - From Polpo, A Venetian Cookbook (Of Sorts) into the oven during the last 5 minutes of roasting the grapes. Remove both
from the oven and set aside.
After trying chicken roasted with grapes a few months ago, I’ve finally come
around to the roasting camp. I really liked the way the heat turned the grapes Toast the bread so that it’s pleasantly toasted, but still pliant. Rub the garlic
into hot bursts of sweetness. clove into the bread much like you’re using a crayon. Drizzle with some olive
oil.
I just wanted to share with you the results of my first stab at a recipe, a
bruschette, made with seedless red grapes, goat cheese, walnuts, honey, and Crumble or smear some goat cheese onto the bread. Add the grapes and
thyme. walnuts, garnish with some small sprigs of thyme, and drizzle with honey.
It isn’t something that can quickly be thrown together, as it does require
briefly roasting the grapes and the walnuts in the oven (in two separate pans,
what’s more), but the final product is a feast of incongruous elements: hot,
juicy grapes ready to burst and bordering on raisin, the oddness of goat
cheese mellowed out by floral honey, roasted walnut that’s almost kind of
melted yet pleasingly chewy, thyme with all its connotations of warm lovely
peasant food, and the underlying scent and taste of garlic, which tips it over
the edge, if you ask me. Altogether, wonderful. Make it! For lunch, as an
afternoon snack, as an elegant appetizer at a posh dinner party. It will wow
you as it will wow guests.
INGREDIENTS
10 grapes – any seedless variety 2 thick slices of bread (I used
Small handful of picked thyme semolina bread)
leaves 1 garlic clove
Extra virgin olive oil Large handful of crumbly goat
Sea salt and black pepper cheese
10 wanut halves Honey

brussels sprouts DIRECTIONS
Serves 3-4 As Side Dish – Adapted From A Girl and Her Pig Trim the Brussels sprouts and slice them in half.
You see, somewhere along the way, I discovered the wonder that is Brussels In a large saute pan, heat 3 Tbsp olive oil on medium-high until it ripples.
sprouts. I mean, it’s seen such a huge lift in popular opinion in recent years Add the garlic and let the pieces turn golden brown on one side, then flip
that I’m pretty sure we’re all Brussels sprouts converts. What’s not to love, them over and repeat. Remove the garlic and set aside. They’ll burn quickly
when it’s served Momofuku-style, all tart and spicy and refreshing? And who once browned, so act fast.
could possibly resist the rendition I present to you this year, tossed with lots Turn the heat to medium and add the bacon. Let it cook fully, until the slices
of bacon, garlic, thyme and a hint of juniper. The trick is to include just are crisp, then set them aside on a paper towel to drain.
enough of an ingredient to leave you wanting more, but not so much that it
gets taken for granted. Add the Brussels sprouts, cut side down, in one layer across the pan. Cook,
using tongs or chopsticks to occasionally check the undersides, until the bot-
The use of juniper berries as an ingredient would ordinarily go against all toms are golden brown. Flip and continue to cook until they’re at your de-
my instincts. It’s, well, GIN after all, herbal and pungent and seemingly sired level of doneness. This step will take about 10 minutes. Don’t rush it.
not compatible with any kind of food. But it shines here, in a big but small Take this time to chop your bacon into bits.
way, an undertone that just works. Please please please seek out the juniper
berries. Stir in the salt, pinches of red pepper, smashed junipers, and reserved garlic
cloves. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the thyme, another Tbsp
of olive oil, the bacon pieces, and a nice big squeeze of lemon juice. Serve.
INGREDIENTS
1 lb. Brussels sprouts pinches of red pepper flakes
4 Tbsp olive oil 2 juniper berries, smashed and
4 large garlic cloves, sliced finely chopped
lengthwise 11⁄2 tsp thyme leaves
3 slices bacon squeeze of lemon juice
1 tsp Maldon salt

soups &
salads
bean salad with mint & DIRECTIONS
ricotta cheese
Place the fava beans in boiling water for a couple minutes, then plunge into
cold water, drain, and remove their skin. Toss the beans carefully with the
cheese, and mint leaves, and arugula. Then mix in the olive oil and lemon
Serves 2 pretty hefty portions - Adapted from Polpo zest/juice until combined.
I absolutely love fava beans. After receiving my copy of Polpo awhile back, Serve with salt and pepper, and any kind of bread.
I’d made a note to myself to make a certain broad bean, mint, & ricotta
bruschette as soon as broad beans (also known as fava beans) were in season.
The time has come. But instead of serving the bruschette on toasted bread, I
decided to toss it on a bed of arugula instead, thereby turning it into a vege-
table-packed and therefore very wholesome meal.
It’s the trinity of fava beans, mint, and lemon zest that serve as the backbone
to this salad’s flavor. Or rather, the mint and lemon zest do wonders to the
flavor of the fava bean, brightening its somewhat stodgy taste. (You know
what I mean, right? It’s part of the reason why I love fava beans.) With the
roundness of ricotta cheese and the sharpness of arugula, I think this recipe
came out really well-balanced and flavorful.
INGREDIENTS
2 cups podded fava beans 3 handfuls arugula
2 cup ricotta cheese (preferably 2 Tbsp olive oil
1⁄
homemade—easy as pie, Zest of one lemon and a good

promise!) squirt of lemon juice
30 mint leaves Salt and fresh pepper to taste
26 THE TART TART soups & salads 27

citrus salad with DIRECTIONS
rosemary & olives

Pour vegetable oil into a small heavy saucepan to a depth of 1⁄2-inch and
turn on stove to medium. Using a deep-fry thermometer, heat the oil until
it reaches 350 degrees F. Add the rosemary sprigs to oil and fry until crisp
Serves 3 to 4 - From Bon Appétit and bright green, 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate and
season lightly with kosher salt. Add 10 pitted oil-cured black olives to oil; fry
My favorite food group is fruit, and citruses are probably my favorite fruit until bubbling stops, about 4 minutes. Place on plate with rosemary. Strip
group. While the fruit world never fails to delight, I think we need their ef- rosemary leaves from sprigs; mince. Chop olives.
fervescence most this time of the year. Their brightness counterbalances the
season’s otherwise drab palette (which a visit to the farmer’s market demon- Using a small, sharp knife, cut peel and white pith from the oranges and
strates with rows and rows of… potatoes), and I could eat them endlessly. lemon. Cut crosswise into 1⁄2-inch rounds.
If there’s one time where I truly feel food is too beautiful to eat, it’s now. Put a bed of arugula on a serving plate. Arrange the citruses over. Season
I am newly but officially in love with Cara Cara oranges. You would never lightly with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Drizzle lightly with olive
guess that such an ordinary exterior gives way to the most vividly orange in- oil. Sprinkle chopped rosemary and olives over oranges.
terior. And they taste so perfect, as sweet as can be. Blood oranges are pretty
rad themselves. Their brilliant flesh intensifies any salad, flashes of ruby red
and very showy. And meyer lemons, well, given this blog’s name, I think it’s
pretty clear where I stand on lemons.
To keep this from being a fruit salad, by which I mean inherently sweet,
there’s a fried rosemary and olive topping that adds just the right note of
bitterness. I also decided to put everything over a bed of arugula and gen-
erously sprinkle sea salt on top, which heightens this salad’s savory nature.
And with the addition Meyer lemon, I believe we cover all of the basic tastes:
bitterness, sweetness, sourness, and saltiness.
INGREDIENTS
Vegetable oil 2 blood oranges
2 3-inch sprigs of rosemary 1 meyer lemon
kosher salt extra virgin olive oil
5 pitted, oil-cured black olives freshly-ground black pepper
2 cara cara oranges a handful of arugula per person

tomato soup DIRECTIONS
Serves 4 Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Strain tomatoes, reserving the juices, and
spread onto baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper, and drizzle with
This recipe is one I’ve been making since my student days, so you can be about 1 Tbsp olive oil. Roast until caramelized, about 15 minutes.
sure that it’s low-maintenance. And it came in handy during my time in
San Francisco, a city whose 365-days-per-year fog and gloom is enough to In a saucepan, heat the rest of the oil on medium-low heat. Add celery,
drive a person mad. You see, you need a soup as heartening as this to keep carrots, onion, and garlic. Cook until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the
your spirits up, lest you succumb to drastic measures. Like quitting your job roasted tomatoes, reserved juices, chicken broth, and bay leaves. Simmer
and chasing summer in the Southern Hemisphere. Well, that latter part was until vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Add basil and cream if using.
unintentional. Puree with an immersion blender.
I don’t remember how I came upon this recipe anymore. I copied it long ago
into a little pocket notebook that I have on me at all times—we all have one
of these, I suspect—and have been faithfully following the same set of direc-
tions for a long time. I’m sure its source is not as obscure as I make it seem,
but I prefer to keep it a mystery, for the sake of having a “family recipe” that
I can pass down for generations. Or not. I don’t think that far ahead. (But it
would be cool nonetheless.)
INGREDIENTS
1 28-ounce can of chopped 1 large yellow onion, diced
tomatoes 4 cloves garlic, minced
4 cup olive oil
1⁄
2 cups chicken broth
salt & ground pepper to taste 2 bay leaves
2 stalks celery, diced 1⁄
2 cup chopped basil
2 small carrots, diced 1⁄

4 cup cream or milk, optional

apple salad with walnut DIRECTIONS
& pumpkin seed

For the vinaigrette, mix all the ingredients but the olive oil together well in a
jar with a lid. Pour in the olive oil, close the jar, and shake it until the dressing
is emulsified.
Serves 4 to 6 - Adapted from The Cozy Apron
For the salad, in a large bowl, combine the arugula, escarole, half the ap-
Have you ever had a honeycrisp apple? I don’t know how I’ve never heard of ples sticks, and half the pumpkin seeds and walnuts. Lightly drizzle with the
them before, because they’re lovely. Maybe because I’ve never been an apple dressing. Serve the salad onto individual serving plates, and garnish each
connoisseur; Fujis have always suited me just fine. But I’m seriously digging with the remaining apples, pumpkin seeds, and walnuts. Drizzle on more
the crisp/tart/perfect flesh of the honeycrisp. Paired with arugula, walnuts, dressing as desired.
and pumpkin seeds, not to mention a cider vinegar, honey, and poppy seed
dressing, the salad is light and fresh and perky.
For many who were shaken by the storm, light and fresh and perky may be
way to start out on the right foot.
INGREDIENTS
Vinaigrette Salad
6 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 2 cups arugula
1 Tbsp finely chopped walnuts 4 cups escarole, cut into bite-sized
3 Tbsp honey pieces
2 tsp poppy seeds 1 honeycrisp apple, sliced into thin
pinch cumin matchsticks
2 cup roasted pumpkin seeds
1⁄
salt & pepper to taste
2 cup roasted walnuts
1⁄
6 Tbsp olive oil

cabbage soup DIRECTIONS
Serves ~ 6 – Adapted from Craig Claiborne & Pierre Franey Place cabbage in a large saucepan. Submerge the cabbage with boiling water
(I boiled the water in a kettle), let it sit for a minute, then drain.
I suspect most of us like cabbage more than we think we do. It’s certainly
not the most dashing of vegetables; there’s something very stolid about it, In a large pot, cook the bacon until rendered of its fat. Chop the bacon into
insipid, blank. But, who doesn’t love a crunchy coleslaw, or pungent kimchi? small bits, return to pot, and add the onions. Cook on medium, stirring, until
And who can possibly refuse a stuffed cabbage of hearty proportions? Not I. wilted. Sprinkle with flour and stir, then add broth, stirring rapidly. When the
mixture begins to simmer, add the cabbage, carrots, potatoes, caraway seeds,
In this case, cabbage is cooked Czech-style, with caraway seeds, dill, and wine
vinegar and sugar. Add salt and pepper to taste.
vinegar that lend it the most heart-warming pickled cabbage taste. It’s full of
bacon, potatoes, and carrots, so it feels hearty and more than filling enough Cook, stirring often, for about half an hour. At this point, you can stir in
for a meal along with some chunky bread. In reality, it’s healthy and econom- the cream, and let simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the chopped dill, then serve.
ical and incredibly satisfying. You could even go vegetarian by not including Extra dill can be added if desired.
the bacon and I think it would taste just as wonderful in a vegetable-y way.
And I didn’t think it needed the heavy cream, although there is that option
if you want to go luxe.
I made a huge pot of it at the beginning of the week and polished it off al-
most singlehandedly. A second pot awaits, and I’m very excited!
Sorry about today’s quick post. I just wanted to make sure to squeeze in this
post before St. Patrick’s Day. If you decide to forego the corned beef and
cabbage, this soup makes a fine substitute.
INGREDIENTS
6 cups shredded cabbage (half a 2 Tbsp white wine vinegar (I used
large head) red)
1 cup (about 6 oz.) bacon 1⁄
2 tsp sugar
1 cup finely diced onions kosher salt and freshly ground

1⁄
4 cup flour black pepper to taste
2 cup heavy cream (optional)
1⁄
6 cups homemade chicken stock
1 cup finely diced carrots 2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh dill
11⁄2 cups finely diced potatoes (or more or less to taste)
1 tsp whole caraway seeds, crushed
or pulverized

split pea soup DIRECTIONS
Serves 6 – Adapted from Bon Appétit Melt butter in heavy large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add
onion, garlic, celery, and carrots. Sauté until vegetables begin to soften, about
After the soup season officially began, I immediately found myself craving 8 minutes. Add pork, marjoram, and oregano; stir 1 minute. Add peas, then
split pea soup, which I didn’t realize involved tossing a part of a pig into a water, and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low. Partially cover pot;
pot to simmer alongside green split peas and other ingredients. There’s some- simmer soup until pork and vegetables are tender peas are falling apart, stir-
thing elusively tantalizing about the smell of smoked meat—it feels round. ring often, about 1 hour and 10 minutes.
Round and whole and filling. I think it strikes an instinctual cord in me, the
part that huddles as close to a fire as possible until the flames practically lick When ready, remove hocks. Using an immersion blender or regular blender
my hands. No, maybe not that close. I’m a tiny bit afraid of fire. (being careful not to overfill it), puree the soup. Cut pork off bones, dice it,
and return to soup. Season with salt and pepper.
This soup is a mishmash of legume and vegetables, too. You know what they
do? They soften, and sort of melt. The immersion blender finishes the job.
The result reminds me of baby food. Green pea puree or something along
those lines. Soupy mush in that rare not-quite-yellow, not-quite-green color.
Winsome description, I know. But the flavor! I’m not so sure a baby would
be able to handle such a taste explosion; it would be too much to process.
I hope you make a huge pot of this soup on a chilly day. You might want to
open a couple windows, you’ll be so warmed to the soul.
INGREDIENTS
2 Tbsp butter 11⁄2 lbs. smoked pork hocks
1 medium onion 2 tsp dried marjoram
2 cloves garlic 1 tsp dried oregano
1 cup chopped celery 2 cups green split peas
1 cup chopped peeled carrots 6 cups water

kale avocado salad DIRECTIONS
Serves 6 – Adapted from Saveur Whisk together juices, soy sauce, and garlic in a bowl. Slowly whisk in oil.
Set aside.
I guess I have an uneasy relationship with vegetables. Kale, with its gray-
green and fibrous leaves, exemplifies everything funny I feel towards them. Cut the avocados into 1⁄2 inch cubes. Put cubed avocados, half sesame seeds,
I want to like it though, and therein lies the problem. I mean, it’s a pretty and kale into a serving bowl. Toss kale mixture with dressing and season
cool vegetable: its color makes me swoon, its texture reminds me of the skin generously with salt and pepper.
of a dinosaur, and it’s so damn healthy it hurts. I just can’t get over the taste.
So what else is a person to do in such a situation except brute force it? Try
as many kale recipes as possible until she finds one to her liking? That’s what
I’ve been trying to do, and this recipe is a step forward in my learning to like
it.
It originally caught my eye because of the pairing of kale with avocado. Um,
I love avocado. Avocado has the power to correct the taste of anything, just
like tomatoes, or soy sauce. Avocado makes me think of California. It also
makes me think of Chile, except it’s called palta there and Chileans pile it on
hot dogs and it is delicious.
So wouldn’t it make perfect sense that avocado complements kale? In the sal-
ad, creamy countered tough… and what a successful experiment in contrasts
it was. Along with the citrus-y dressing, this salad mellowed the toughness of
the kale with notes of sweet and tart.
It was lovely. I ate the whole thing singlehandedly! Also, if you don’t mind
the discoloration of avocado, it tastes better after you’ve left the flavors hang
out together for awhile. It was delicious with scrambled eggs for lunch.
INGREDIENTS
2 cup orange juice 2 Tbsp black sesame seeds
1⁄
3 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 bunch kale (about 3⁄4 lb.),

2 tsp soy sauce stemmed and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, smashed and Kosher salt and freshly ground
chopped into a paste black pepper, to taste
4 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 avocados, halved, pitted, and
peeled

mains
ramps & ricotta DIRECTIONS
gnocchi
Separate the ramps into leaves and roots. Slice the roots into small pieces,
and roughly chop the leaves. In a medium skillet on medium heat, melt the
butter. Add the ramp roots and cook for a few minutes until softened. Add
Serves 3-4 – Adapted From Rachel Eats the leaves and cook another few minutes. Season with salt and pepper to
taste and let cool. Once cool enough to handle, squeeze the ramps until
I haven’t eaten enough gnocchi in my life to be on the fence about it, but I drained of any excess liquid. Empty into a food processor. Add the ricotta,
am. I don’t think I’ve given it a fair chance though. My mind conjures up egg yolk, and parmesan, and process for about a minute until completely
images of heavy balls of dough, not helped by the fact that the one and only combined. Store the mixture in a bowl in the fridge for a couple hours.
time I tried gnocchi, it was doused in a heavy gorgonzola sauce, so uniform
in cheesiness that it tasted positively… bland? What I mean is, the sauce was Alternatively, if you don’t want to use a food processor (like me—raise your
a homogeneous goop-soup of melted cheese and heavy cream. So while the hand if you hate the clean up!), mince the ramps and toss them into a bowl.
gnocchi itself probably tasted amazing, I could barely eat beyond a bite. Add the ricotta, egg yolk, and parmesan, and stir vigorously until the mixture
is well-combined. Store in the fridge for a couple hours.
Knowing that potato is one of its primary ingredients certainly doesn’t help.
(I’ve never been fond of potatoes.) Like I said, totally unfair right? Dust a clean work surface liberally with flour. Working quickly, take a por-
Well, let me tell you, these little guys are almost completely potato- and tion of the ricotta dough and roll it into a log. It should be much easier to
flour-free! In fact, aside from the flour used for dusting, these gnocchi are handle once coated with flour. Cut it into pieces (size is your preference) and
gluten-free. As a result, they have a texture that goes poof, a mouthfeel as rest them in a pan dusted with flour. Continue with the rest of the dough,
light as a cloud; the gnocchi disintegrates as softly in the mouth as a silk slip. re-dusting the surface with flour as needed. Keep in mind, the more flour
And the single note of ramps is a more winsome version, its garlicky edge you use, the heavier the gnocchi will be, so only use as much flour as neces-
dampened discreetly by parmesan. All in all, these are things of beauty. sary.
At this point, you can store the gnocchi in the fridge, covered, for up to two
days. I found that they dry out a bit this way, which actually makes handling
them a bit easier.
INGREDIENTS To cook, bring a pot of water to a boil, then reduce the heat to barely a
8 oz. (225 grams) ramps, about 30 2 oz. (60 grams) parmesan (can simmer. Drop the gnocchi in a few pieces at a time, cooking for 30 to 60 sec-
to 40 stalks sub half the cheese with onds, then gently removing them with a slotted spoon into bowls for serving.
1 Tbsp butter pecorino, but not much more They’re very delicate!
21⁄2 oz. (75 grams) ricotta, drained than that!)
In the meantime, brown some butter for the sauce. In another pan, heat the
of as much liquid as possible salt and pepper to taste
butter on medium heat until it turns a medium brown and smells nutty and
1 egg yolk AP flour for dusting delicious, about 2 minutes. Spoon the browned butter onto the gnocchi, and
season with salt, pepper, and extra parmesan.
42 THE TART TART mains 43

broccoli rabe & egg DIRECTIONS
pizza
Preheat your oven to its highest temperature (mine is 500 degrees F) and
place your pizza stone/baking pan inside to heat up. You want your oven to
be nice and hot, so plan to preheat for at least half an hour.
Serves 1-2 – Adapted From Polpo
Blanch the broccoli rabe for about 30 seconds in boiling water, then immedi-
Unbeknownst to all of you, a lot of pizza is made in this apartment. Usually ately plunge it into cold water to stop its cooking. Squeeze it out thoroughly,
I half-ass it, using Trader Joe’s pre-made pizza dough which needs about 20 and chop it up. Turn your stove onto medium and pour in a glug of olive oil.
minutes of sitting on the counter before it’s ready. And as far as toppings go, When it’s hot, add the garlic and saute for 15 seconds, then add the chopped
we’re not very experimental—bacon, spinach or arugula, and yellow bell pep- broccoli rabe and red pepper flakes. Saute for a few minutes, seasoning with
per all the way, with the occasional mushroom and tomato thrown in. But salt and pepper, then turn off the stove. Stir in the Parmesan and yogurt.
sometimes, I get it together enough to make my own dough, which, I know I Roll out your pizza dough to about 10 inches in diameter. Spread the brocco-
know, is supremely easy to make, so there’s really no good excuse why I don’t. li rabe mixture evenly across the pizza (minus the border, of course), leaving
This pizza was inspired by a gorgeous spinach, runny egg, and Parmesan a little well in the middle. Crack the egg over the well. Sprinkle the mozza-
pizza featured in Polpo, that cookbook I raved about not so long ago. It was rella over the top, as well as some extra Parmesan, and season with salt and
a departure from our usual tomato sauce-based pizzas, but I didn’t miss the pepper.
stuff at all. It was delicious. We demolished it in about five minutes.
Bake until the crust is blistered and lightly brown and the egg is cooked but
I just want to point out, broccoli rabe is not as easy a pleaser as spinach. Its still runny. My pizza took about 9 minutes.
bitterness can be offputting. But the garlic and red pepper flakes transform
the bitterness into something else, something toothsome and with bite, so
don’t skip the saute!
INGREDIENTS
A small ball of pizza dough a sprinkle of red pepper flakes
1 large handful of broccoli rabe, A few Tbsp grated Parmesan
ends trimmed A handful of mozzarella
2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped Salt & pepper
1 Tbsp plain yogurt 1 egg

summer greek pasta DIRECTIONS
Serves 2 – Adapted From Bon Appétit Mix the first 7 ingredients together in a medium bowl. Set aside.
This pasta recipe slinked (slunk?) onto the scene, begging to be made. It’s Make the pasta. When ready, reserve some of the pasta water if needed and
totally an end-of-summer dish: the sauce is uncooked, requiring the freshest drain. Add hot pasta to tomato mixture and toss to coat. Season with salt and
tomatoes, herbs, and feta you can procure. But it’s pasta, which I’ve avoided pepper and serve. Also good cold.
up to this point, because it’s been the last thing I’ve felt like eating in 90+ This should be good with pitted Kalamata olives as well, but I don’t really
degree, humid-as-hell weather. like them so I didn’t use them.
This dish is light, it’s hearty, and it gently eases me into a more forward way
of thinking.
INGREDIENTS
1 pound tomatoes, halved, 4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
chopped (I used cherry 1⁄
4 cup fresh parsley, chopped
tomatoes) 2 Tbsp fresh dill, chopped
2 cup chopped scallions (white
1⁄
juice from 1 lemon
and light green parts only)
2 Tbsp EVOO

shrimp & pork DIRECTIONS
dumplings
Chop the cabbage into thin slivers. In a small bowl, mix the cabbage with
about 1 tsp of salt and leave it alone for about 15 minutes. Doing this draws
out the liquid from the cabbage—otherwise, your dumplings will be soggy.
Makes ~ 3 Dozen – From Steamy Kitchen Afterwards, take all the cabbage in your hands and squeeze out all the liquid.
Then, finely chop the cabbage.
Recently, I had my first dumplings on the East Coast, at a quiet little Upper
West Side establishment. I ordered an extra large portion of shrimp and pork Cut the shrimp into small bits. You can use the food processor for this, but
dumplings… now you see where I’m going. I don’t have one, so I just take a chef ’s knife to the pile. Cut them into small
pieces, but not so small that they becomes a paste.
In short, they were good. And it was the memory of those dumplings that
inspired me to pick up ground pork and shrimp at the market the other In a large bowl, thoroughly mix the chopped shrimp, ground pork, chopped
day. Along with some dumpling wrappers and a little oblong head of Napa green onion, chopped cabbage, ginger, soy sauce, corn starch, rice wine, 1⁄2
cabbage. tsp of salt, and pepper to taste.
Dumplings are inherently easy to make, because you can fill them with any- Pile a heaping Tbsp of the filling into the center of the skin. Have a little
thing. Chicken and corn, pork and mushroom, beef and lotus root. I judge bowl of water ready. Dip a finger into the water and brush a ring along the
by the smell. A splash of rice wine, a few dollops of corn starch, minced outer rim of the skin. Fold it in half like a taco and squeeze. You want your
ginger in mounds, and a long drizzle of soy sauce. dumplings to seal, tight. Otherwise, they’ll break when you’re cooking them.
Of course, I tend to add ingredients indiscriminately, zealously even. Any- When pleating, you’re only going to pleat one side. With each pleat, press
thing faintly Chinese goes in the mix. I might’ve tossed in some garlic, some hard to seal it. As you pleat, the dumpling should start curling in the opposite
sesame oil, but I was referring to a recipe for once, and it didn’t call for these direction. Pleat three times on each side of the center. When you’re finished,
things. And thank goodness too, because the dumplings came out perfectly. give the dumpling one last firm squeeze.
They were wonderful. You can now freeze them (indefinitely—I have tested this out many times)
or cook them. I prefer to boil them.
Boil a pot of water big enough so the dumplings aren’t crowded together in
INGREDIENTS the pot. Once the water’s boiling, slide in the dumplings and let the water
come to a boil again. Cook for another few minutes. At this point, you can
A handful (about 1 cup) of Napa 1 tsp fresh ginger, minced cut one open. Make sure the skin’s fully cooked through.
cabbage 2 Tbsp soy sauce
1 tsp salt Other serving suggestions: pan-frying (to make potstickers) and steaming
2 Tbsp corn starch
(line the bottom of the steamer with cabbage leaves or parchment paper
4 lb shrimp, peeled and deveined
3⁄
1 Tbsp rice wine with holes cut into it so the dumplings don’t stick to the steamer)
2 lb ground pork
1⁄
2 tsp salt
1⁄
3 stalks of green onion, green and pepper to taste

white parts, finely chopped

lambs quarters frittata DIRECTIONS
Serves 4 – Adapted From Alton Brown Turn oven on to broil. Whisk together eggs, cheese, salt, and pepper in a
medium bowl, then set aside.
Lamb’s quarters actually grows like crazy. Apparently it’s all over Central
Park, although it’s easily confused with epazote, which is toxic if eaten in In an oven-safe 12-inch skillet (I used my cast-iron), saute onions until trans-
large quantities. It’s incredibly healthy, full of beta carotene, calcium, potas- lucent (2 to 3 minutes), then add bacon and saute another minute. Add the
sium, iron. It even leaves behind that same chalky feeling on your teeth after lamb’s quarters and cook until wilted, 2 minutes or so. Spread out the con-
you eat spinach. Coincidentally, it’s often referred to as wild spinach and is tents of the pan so it’s even across the pan. Pour the egg mixture in, and
said to taste like it. I wouldn’t agree exactly; it’s definitely more of an acquired spread it across the pan with a spatula. Cook for a few minutes until the egg
taste, especially when eaten raw. mixture has set on the bottom and is beginning to set on top.
But in a frittata, it’s excellent. Its lovely, fuzzy, silvery leaves turn a bright Transfer the skillet into the oven and broil for 3 or 4 minutes until top is
green when sauteed, and it shrinks dramatically, just like, yup, that’s right, lightly browned.
spinach. But it’s hardier, with sturdier stems, so less can go a longer way than
its domesticated cousin. Because we’re talking frittatas here, you can throw
in just about anything to accompany the lamb’s quarters. I decided to throw
in some bacon at the last minute, which sort of clashed with the romano
cheese—perhaps cheddar might be a better complement. Whatever the case,
treat the plant like spinach and you’ll be eating it like a pro!
INGREDIENTS
6 large eggs 3 strips bacon, cooked and roughly
5 Tbsp grated cheese (I used chopped
romano) 1⁄
4 lb. lamb’s quarters, with tough
Salt and pepper to taste stems removed (you can

1 Tbsp butter substitute spinach, but you’ll
need more, 1⁄2 lb. or so)
2 onion
1⁄

shakshuka DIRECTIONS
Serves 4-6 – Adapted From Melissa Clark In a large skillet, heat oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion and bell
peppers, and cook until very soft, about 20 minutes. Add the garlic and cook
A little bit of background, shakshuka is North African in origin, and it means for another minute or so until fragrant, then stir in the spices. Cook anoth-
‘mixture’ in Arabic (thanks Wiki). And that it is. It’s essentially an egg dish, er minute, then pour in the tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper, and let
but it’s got a whole mess of tastes and textures to fill out all its nooks and simmer for about 10 minutes until the sauce has thickened. Stir in the feta
crannies: slippery onion and bell pepper, a spicy and fragrant tomato sauce, cheese.
salty briny crumbly feta, the cleanness of fresh scattered cilantro leaves. And
to top it all off, barely-set eggs that tumble into puddles of yolk when prod- Gently crack in the eggs evenly around the pan over the sauce. Top them
ded. Doesn’t that sound amazing? To me, it’s a dream. with a little more salt and pepper, then simmer until the eggs are just set,
about 10 minutes. Serve with lots of pita bread to mop up the sauce.
A couple other items of note: our cast-iron skillet is monstrous in size and has
a permanent place on the stovetop because it’s too big to go anywhere else.
My efforts always feel so dwarfed by it—like I should be preparing dinner for
six rather than dinner for two. This recipe, then, is perfectly-sized. And you’ll
want to use your extra-large skillet so you too can make an extra-large batch
to enjoy for multiple meals.
INGREDIENTS
3 Tbsp olive oil 2 tsp cayenne pepper
1⁄
1 large onion, sliced thinly 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes

1 large bell pepper, deseeded and with juices
sliced thinly salt and pepper to taste
3 garlic cloves, sliced thinly 11⁄4 to 11⁄2 cups crumbled feta
1 tsp ground cumin 6 large eggs
1 tsp paprika

pappardelle with wild DIRECTIONS
mushrooms
Brush off dirt from the mushrooms and slice thinly. In a very hot frying pan,
add the olive oil, then the mushrooms. Let them fry fast, tossing once or
twice, then add the garlic and red pepper flakes with a pinch of salt (season
Serves 2 – Adapted From The Naked Chef lightly, Jamie instructs, as a little really brings out the flavor). Continue to fry
fast for 4 to 5 minutes, tossing regularly. Then turn the heat off and squeeze
In my estimation, mushrooms are the perfect stand-in for meat. They’re port- in the lemon juice. Toss and season to taste.
ly and satisfying, with their own irresistible flavors to boot. Plus, they’re not
bad on the eyes. (Can tofu boast such a quality? I think not.) Meanwhile cook the pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Add to the
mushrooms, with the parmesan, parsley and butter. Toss gently, coating the
I like shiitake mushrooms the best, but I like mixing them even more. This
pasta with the mushrooms and their flavor. Serve, scraping out all of the last
wild mushroom pasta serves them up simply, with a liberal sprinkling of par-
bits of mushroom from the pan, and sprinkle with a little extra parsley and
mesan cheese and parsley. I think the trick is to not overdo it on the pappar-
Parmesan.
delle, which has the tendency to dry out the dish. While the original recipe
called for an approximate one-to-one ratio of pasta and mushrooms, I would
halve the heavy (albeit delicious) pappardelle and even increase the amount
of mushrooms just a tad.
That way, you’ll really taste the garlicky mushrooms but get to savor the lus-
cious pappardelle as well.
INGREDIENTS
12 oz. mixed mushrooms up to 8 oz. pappardelle
3 Tbsp olive oil 1⁄
2 stick (2 ounces) unsalted butter
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped a small handful of grated Parmesan

Dried red pepper flakes, salt, and cheese
pepper to taste a handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley,
juice of 1⁄2 lemon roughly chopped

baked
desserts
mixed berries galette DIRECTIONS
Makes 2 9-inch Tarts – From Good to the Grain Sift the flours, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Cut the butter into 1⁄2-inch
pieces and add them to the dry mixture. Working quickly, rub the butter
When we moved into our apartment in San Francisco, we bought a giant between your fingers, breaking it into smaller chunks. When the chunks are
bookshelf and filled it to the brim with books. Over time, the overflow start- sizes ranging from peas to hazelnuts, add the vinegar and 8 T ice water. Mix
ed lying in stacks in front, and by the time we moved out, we had so many the ingredients with your hands until you can squeeze them into a shaggy
books that Chris ended up having to donate most of the collection. The rest lump (add water 1 T at a time if it’s not coming together). Wrap the dough
we stored at my parents’ house, boxes and boxes full. It wasn’t so much that I in plastic wrap and place in fridge for at least 1 hour.
had a book-buying problem. Chris is just helpless at the sight of used book-
stores. They are treasure troves to him, much in the same way good grocery Unwrap the dough onto a floured surface. Pat the dough into a rough square,
stores—the kinds with bulk bins and small-batch anythings—are to me. then, using a rolling pin, roll the dough to a rectangle about 8-1⁄2 by 11 inches.
Resist the urge to add extra flour or water. Fold the rectangle as you would
The thing about collections is, the collector starts to lose sight of the point
a letter, into thirds, with the seam ending on the left. Rotate the dough 90
of the collection. Presumably you start one because you love whatever it is
degrees clockwise so that the seam faces the top. Roll the dough into another
you’re collecting, but the more you own of something, the less attention each
8-1⁄2 by 11-inch rectangle and repeat the folding and rotation. Roll it out once
individual item gets. We’re so inoculated with the idea that more is better,
again, then, after folding, wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap. Chill for at
but perhaps real merit lies in realizing when enough is enough.
least an hour before use.
And so, when furnishing our new, smaller apartment in New York, we decid-
ed to limit ourselves to one regular-sized bookshelf which demanded that we You’ll cut the dough in half when you’re ready to bake, resulting in two
downsize our collection yet again. On my part, I decided to part with quite galettes.
a few cookbooks. Back to the basics, if you will. Or just the favorites. And I
too find such pleasure in lingering over what’s left of my collection. Each and
every book is an absolute gem. The recipe for the crust of these mixed berry
galettes are from Kim Boyce’s Good to the Grain, a classic to me and one that
will always have a place on my shelf.
INGREDIENTS
3⁄
cup ice water
4 1 t salt
1 cup rye flour 11⁄2 sticks (12 T) cold unsalted
1 cup all-purpose flour butter
1 T sugar 1 t apple cider vinegar
58 THE TART TART baked desserts 59

yeasted apple cider DIRECTIONS
doughnuts
Whisk the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt in a large bowl to combine, and
set aside.
Makes 12 Doughnuts & Doughnut Holes – Adapted From Chow In a medium bowl, mix the yeast and 1 tsp of sugar. Heat 1⁄2 cup of the apple
cider until it’s warm but not hot, and add it to the yeast mixture. Stir to com-
I’m not usually a fan of cake doughnuts. In fact, I’m not sure the doughnut I bine. Let it sit until it’s foamy, about 5 minutes. Then, add the remaining 1⁄4
had was a cake doughnut – it was far too luscious and fluffy. But I love any- cup sugar, remaining 1⁄4 cup apple cider, egg yolks, oil, and vanilla and whisk
thing apple cider flavored, so I decided to make my own version with yeast. to combine. Add this mixture to the flour mixture and stir with a wooden
spoon until the dough comes together and begins to form a ball.
This recipe is close. It’s not fluffy enough in my opinion, but then again, I
wonder if the doughnut of my dreams is exactly that: not real. Nevertheless, Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface. Scatter the butter piec-
there’s something really exciting about making doughnuts at home (another es over the dough and knead until the butter is fully incorporated and the
one of those look-what-I-made! foods), and these taste delicious when they’re dough is smooth and elastic, about 6 to 8 minutes. You might need to add up
fresh out of the, um, fryer? Is that what you call your pot when you’re using to 1⁄4 cup of additional flour to keep the dough from being too sticky.
it for deep-frying?
Oil the sides of a large bowl. Form the dough into a ball, and place it in,
turning to coat. Cover the bowl and let the dough rise in a warm place until
doubled in size, about 2 hours.
INGREDIENTS Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Punch down the dough, trans-
fer it to a lightly floured work surface, and roll it out until it’s about 1⁄2 inch
21⁄2 cups all-purpose flour, plus 2 large egg yolks
thick. Using a 3-inch round cutter, stamp out as many dough rounds as you
extra for rolling out 1 Tbsp vegetable oil can. Use a 1-inch round cutter to make the inner hole (or, in my case, an
1 2 tsp ground cinnamon
1⁄
1 tsp vanilla extract icing tip that was about 1.5″ in diameter) and place the doughnuts—and
2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1⁄
1 Tbsp unsalted butter, room doughnut holes—on the prepared baking sheet. Gather the dough scraps
1⁄
2 tsp fine salt temperature and repeat. Discard any remaining dough scraps. Cover the doughnuts and
21⁄4 tsp active dry yeast Neutral oil for frying let them proof until they’re about 3⁄4 inches in height, 30 minutes to an hour.
4 cup plus 1 tsp granulated sugar 2 cup sugar (optional)
1⁄ 1⁄
Fill a heavy-bottomed pot with about 2 inches of a neutral oil. Clap a candy
3⁄
4 cup apple cider 1 Tbsp ground cinnamon thermometer on the side. Heat the oil on medium heat until it reaches 360
(optional) degrees F. It should take a little while, so in the meantime, prepare a rack
where the doughnuts will drain by laying over it a few sheets of paper towels.
If you’re planning on topping the doughnuts, prepare the cinnamon sugar in
a large plate and set it close by.
Once the oil is ready, add the first doughnut. Fry until golden brown, about
30 seconds, then flip it over (I used chopsticks). Add the second doughnut
and repeat. Move the first one to the rack when it’s ready, and continue fry-
ing the rest. I was able to balance frying three at a time. Once the doughnut
has cooled a little, dip it in the cinnamon sugar until it’s generously covered.
Move on to the doughnut holes.

almond macarons DIRECTIONS
Makes ~ 20 Macarons – Adapted From Brave Tart Preheat your oven to 300 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with parchment
paper.
Given the choice between a chocolate chip cookie or a macaron, I would
choose the cookie. I would choose just about anything over a macaron. I mixed the almond meal and confectioner’s sugar together in a medium
Which is why I’d never felt the urge to try making them. Besides, their repu- bowl and blended them together thoroughly with an immersion blender.
tation of being notoriously difficult to make is a well-known fact, and I don’t Sift the mixture, using a fine sieve, into a large bowl. In the bowl of a stand
like to fiddle with fussy directions or spend too much time gathering obscure mixer with the whisk attachment affixed, add the egg whites and sugar. Turn
ingredients. the mixer on to power level 4 and whisk the mixture together for 3 minutes.
Next, turn the power up to 7 and whisk an additional 3 minutes. Turn the
It turns out, macarons are really fun to make.
power up to 8 and whisk an additional minute or two. By now, there should
The other day, while reading about laminating dough I got drawn into the be a stiff meringue in the bowl. Knock the meringue that’s trapped in the
macaron tutorial. It was right there and curiosity got the better of me. It whisk back into the bowl. Now, add the almond meal mixture into the bowl
turned out, basic macarons only require something along the lines of four all at once. After about 25 turns the mixture will still have a quite lumpy and
ingredients: egg whites, powdered sugar, regular sugar, and almond meal. stiff texture. Another 15 strokes will see you to “just about right.” You want
What?! Furthermore, they didn’t look nearly as difficult to make as I’d imag- to knock the air out of them. By the time it’s ready, its consistency will be
ined. Of course, the process requires a certain amount of finesse, good tech- runnier than you’d think, closer to pancake batter than cake batter.
nique let’s say, but the basic steps are few and simple enough.
Fill a pastry bag with the batter. Pipe your shells onto the parchment-paper
I really hope to convince those of you that feel the same way I’d felt about lined baking sheets, a little more than a quarter (US currency) in size (about
macarons to give them a try. They just might blow your mind. 2 cm. or 1 inch), spacing them about 1 inch apart.When you’re done pip-
ing, pick up the pan and whack it down hard against your counter. Do this
another time, then rotate the pan 90 degrees and do the same thing twice.
You might see tiny air bubbles appear on the top of the rounds, a good
INGREDIENTS sign because they could be potentially damaging if buried within the batter.
Macarons Caramelized White Chocolate Repeat with the other pan. Slide the pans into the oven and bake for about
3⁄
cup almond meal
4 Ganache 15 minutes, at which point the shells should be able to be cleanly picked off
3⁄
cup caramelized white chocolate the parchment paper.Fill your macarons with the caramelized white choc-
1 cup confectioner’s sugar 4
(from about 8 oz. of white olate ganache. I used a pastry bag, but a spoon should work as well. Heat
2 large egg whites (any the heavy cream in a saucepan to boiling, then reduce the heat and let it
temperature) chocolate)
simmer for about 30 seconds. Turn off the heat and stir the cream into the
2 cup heavy cream
1⁄
3 Tbsp sugar bowl with the white chocolate. Keep stirring until well-incorporated. Let the
ganache come to room temperature. Using the whisk attachment of your
mixer, whisk the ganache on medium speed for a few minutes until it’s light
and airy.

pistachio layer cake DIRECTIONS
Makes a 6inch 4 Layer Cake – Adapted From Baked Explorations Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Butter four 6″ cake pans (or however
many you have, but you’ll have to work in batches). Line the bottoms with
In truth, the cake is not as forwardly pistachio-tasting as you might think. circles of parchment paper, dust the pans with flour and knock out the ex-
What it really reminds me of is a nut bread, dense yet moist, and textured cess.
in that whole-grainy way. This may, in part, be due to the fact that I hand-
ground, using a mortar and pestle, the pistachios, an imprecise process that In a food processor, pulse the pistachios into a coarse grind, remove 2 Tbsp,
yielded not the fine grain that the recipe called for, but something a little and set them aside in a medium bowl. Process remaining pistachios just until
coarser, more similar to sand. But no matter. I liked it, a lot. Chris did too, finely ground to a powder. Sift cake flour, all-purpose flour, baking powder,
and I gave him all the cake tops to take to work so I wouldn’t end up snacking salt, and baking soda into the same bowl with the 2 Tbsp chopped pistachios.
on them throughout the day. Stir in pistachio powder.
But the true gem was the honey buttercream. It was superb, absolutely su- In a stand mixer using the paddle attachment, beat butter on medium speed
perb! It was wistfully velvety with the slight aftertaste of honey (meaning, until creamy, about 1 minute. Add 1-1⁄2 cups sugar and vanilla and beat until
not too sweet) and a lightness kind of sort of like whipped cream. I found fluffy, 4 minutes. Scrape down the bowl, and with mixer on low speed, beat
ample excuses to conduct multiple taste tests: while scraping down the bowl, in eggs one at a time until well blended. Beat in the flour mixture in 3 addi-
while filling the cake, while frosting the crumb layer (which I liberally ap- tions, alternating with the cold water, beginning and ending with flour mix-
plied for that very purpose), while cleaning out the bowl that I used to hold ture. Beat until blended, scraping bowl; then beat batter 15 more seconds.
the crumb-filled frosting. And all the while, my brain kept saying ‘no, no, Scrape into a large bowl.
no, put down the spatula, Linda!’ because, being the sensible organ that it With a clean bowl and using the whisk attachment, beat egg whites and
is, you can’t get past it the fact that the frosting is made almost completely cream of tartar on medium speed until foamy. With mixer on medium-high
of butter(!). speed, add remaining 1⁄4 cup sugar and beat just until soft peaks form, tak-
ing care not to over beat. Gently fold whites into batter just until no white
streaks remain.Divide batter between prepared pans (or about an inch into
each pan) and spread evenly. Bake 35 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick
INGREDIENTS inserted in center of cakes comes out clean. Transfer pans to wire racks and
Pistachio Cake Frosting let cool 20 minutes. Turn cakes out onto racks, remove parchment paper,
1 cup shelled pistachios 1 1⁄2 cups sugar flip them over, and let cool completely.Cake rounds can now be covered in
2 1⁄2 cups cake flour 1
⁄3 cup all-purpose flour plastic wrap and stored in the fridge overnight.
3
⁄4 cup all-purpose flour 1 1⁄2 cups whole milk In a heavy, medium saucepan, whisk sugar and flour until well blended. Add
1 Tbsp baking powder 1
⁄3 cup heavy cream milk and cream and cook over medium heat until mixture thickens and comes
1 tsp baking soda 3 sticks unsalted butter, softened, to a boil, about 10 minutes. (This is where the quality of your pan comes
and cut into small pieces through. Using a sub-standard saucepan like I did? Keep the heat on low and
3
⁄4 tsp salt
stir constantly.) Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring, for 2 more minutes.
1 cup butter, softened 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
1 3⁄4 cups sugar, divided 3 Tbsp good honey Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer. With the paddle attach-
ment, beat the mixture on high speed until it cools completely, about 10 min-
1 Tbsp pure vanilla extract
utes. On medium speed, beat in the butter. It’ll gradually start incorporating
2 large eggs into the mix and look more and more like frosting; it takes about 5 minutes.
1 1⁄2 cups ice water Increase the speed to medium-high until the frosting is fluffy and smooth,
3 large egg whites, at room about 1 minute. Beat in honey and vanilla until incorporated. Taste for the
temperature honey and add more if necessary.
1
⁄4 tsp cream of tartar The frosting can now be refrigerated, covered, but before you use it, let it
come to room temperature and mix it until it regains its fluffiness.

honey cupcakes DIRECTIONS
A Dozen Cupcakes – Adapted From Half-Baked
Cupcakes
For my friend’s birthday, I’d originally intended to make lavender frosting Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 12 muffin cups with liners.
because lavender is her favorite flavor ever, which is why I made honey-fla- In medium bowl mix together flour, baking powder and salt, and set aside. In
vored cupcakes. Honey and lavender—they seem a fine pair, don’t they? But, small bowl mix together buttermilk, honey and vanilla, and set aside. In bowl
me being me, I didn’t begin looking for the lavender until the last minute, of stand mixer cream butter and sugar on medium speed until combined.
the morning of her party in fact, which is how I ended up with a botched Add eggs, one at a time beating well after each addition and scraping down
Swiss meringue buttercream frosting hanging stickily in pots and pans all sides of bowl as needed. Gradually add the dry and wet ingredients, alternat-
around the kitchen: lavender was nowhere to be found, at least in my imme- ing starting and ending with dry ingredients. Don’t overmix.
diate vicinity, so I switched to the buttercream, and subsequently flubbed it.
Fill the liners 2⁄3 full. Bake 18-20 minutes or until tops are golden.
I’m not an experienced frosting maker, if you can’t tell.
So I guess you could call the creation of the lemon cream cheese frosting a
metaphorical throwing in of the towel. I mean, I did throw a dish towel at Frosting
the counter in disgust after the buttercream underperformed (fine, I under- In a large bowl, cream butter and cream cheese until combined. Gradually
performed), and even contemplated showing up at my friend’s place with add confectioner’s sugar and continue to mixing scraping down sides of
unfrosted cupcakes. But just like bestowing a cake upon a friend with a slice bowl as needed. Mix in honey and lemon zest. Frost the cupcakes.
cut out for the sake of my food blog would be a violation of basic human
rights, showing up with plain cupcakes would be, well, just plain pathetic.
That is how I ended up with a lemon zest-spiked cream cheese frosting. I was
happy with my decision in the end. It may have been a safe and easy choice,
but it was SO good. And I don’t even like lemon.
INGREDIENTS
Cupcakes Frosting
1 stick butter, room temperature 11⁄2 sticks unsalted butter, room
3
⁄4 cup sugar temperature
2 eggs 4 oz. cream cheese, softened
11⁄2 cups all-purpose flour 3 cups confectioners sugar
1 tsp baking powder 3 Tbsp honey
1
⁄2 tsp salt Grated zest from 1 lemon
1
⁄2 cup buttermilk
1
⁄4 cup honey
1 tsp vanilla extract

banana bread DIRECTIONS
Makes a 9inch Loaf – From New Best Recipe Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan.
I love banana bread, and I was eager to try the Cook’s Illustrated version for Spread the walnuts on a baking sheet and toast until fragrant, 5 to 10 min-
which I’d saved four withered bananas in the freezer. In hindsight, I should’ve utes. Set aside to cool.
left them there until September. Whisk the flour, sugar, baking soda, salt, and walnuts together in a large
I’m also actually okay with our kitchen. Although have I ever complained to bowl. In a medium bowl, mix the mashed bananas, yogurt, eggs, butter, and
you about it before? No? Okay well, it’s very typical as far as New York kitch- vanilla. Lightly fold the banana mixture into the dry ingredients until just
ens go, except smaller. Tinier. More diminutive. It’s about 6 by 8 feet, with combined. Note: Lightly means lightly—the flour starts forming glutens
no window, no fan. And it’s warm, always warm, like the inside of a locker when it’s mixed with water. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan.
room. And when the oven’s on, it boils. But other than that, it’s cozy and it’s Bake until the loaf is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the middle
functional and I like what’s come out of it. comes out clean, about 55 minutes. Note: I used a longer, narrower loaf
And summer? Well, I can’t say I love it. Of course, remembering what I left pan, so mine was slightly overdone after 45 minutes. Cool in the pan for 5
behind, I’m thankful that I get to experience it at all. San Francisco summers minutes, then transfer to a cooling rack. Make sure to wrap it tightly when
are lessons in delayed gratification and they’re very bad for morale. My mo- storing.
rale improved considerably when I left them behind. Although my morale
became very confused when I spent my entire winter south of the hemi-
sphere—in essence, I’ve been living summer for the last year.
I really shouldn’t have turned on the oven.
In the end, tiny kitchens and summer heat can’t stop the most committed of
bakers from baking. I don’t count myself as one of them. By the time I stuck
the loaf in the oven, I’d disavowed baking. Forever. It was only going to be
tiramisus and cheesecakes from now on.
INGREDIENTS
2 cups all-purpose flour 3 very ripe bananas, mashed well
11⁄4 cups walnuts, coarsely chopped 1
⁄4 cup plain yogurt
1
⁄2 cup semisweet chocolate chips, 2 large eggs, beaten lightly
coarsely chopped 6 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted and
10 Tbsp sugar cooled
3
⁄4 tsp baking soda 1 tsp vanilla extract
1
⁄2 tsp salt

peanut butter tarts DIRECTIONS
Makes 4 3.5inch Tarts – Adapted From Chow
Crust
I’ve been enamored with culinary swirls lately, the ones that happen effort- In a small bowl, mix the butter, sugar, and salt. Add the flour and gently mix
lessly through the process of mixing and folding and pouring. I’m not sure until just combined. Divide the dough into four equal pieces and press each
anything manmade can emulate the unintended complexity that such acts piece evenly into 3.5″ tart pans, including up the sides. Trim the tops and
bloom into being, though I’m sure the masters at Pixar are certainly trying. place the tart pans in the fridge until firm, 15 – 30 minutes. Preheat oven to
350 degrees F.
I especially love the streaks that occur when chocolate is folded into me-
ringues. When firm, remove the crusts from the fridge and prick evenly with a fork.
Bake about 20 minutes until golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool.
And when peanut butter is folded into a chocolate tart.
I’ve made peanut butter tarts four times in the last couple weeks—for two
birthdays and twice just because—and think I’ve got the recipe down. While Filling
the original recipe is intended for a 9 inch tart pan, individual tarts trump gi- While the crusts are cooling, melt the chocolate and butter in a double-broil-
ant tarts, period. The crust to filling ratio is just about perfect, and they look er. In a small saucepan, heat the heavy cream, sugar, and salt until boiling,
damn cute too. The swirls are formed simply by dropping warmed-up peanut then reduce heat to low and simmer for 1 minute. Pour the cream mixture
butter in teaspoonfuls onto the chocolate, then swirling them around with a over the chocolate and stir until evenly combined. Pour the chocolate mix-
skewer. There’s no way to mess up—nature will take care of all the intricacies. ture evenly into the tart pans and let cool for about 10 minutes.
Heat up the peanut butter (the microwave works best) so that it’s runny,
about 20 seconds. Using a teaspoon, drop mounds of peanut butter onto
INGREDIENTS the chocolate ganache. Use as much or as little as you want; you’ll have
to experiment to discover your preferences. Using a skewer or a chopstick,
Crust Filling gently swirl through peanut butter in swoops. Don’t overdo it or the pattern
1
⁄4 cup (half a stick) unsalted 6 oz. semi-sweet chocolate will dilute.
butter, melted 2 T unsalted butter Let set for another hour or so until the tarts aren’t quite as jiggly. You can
2 T granulated sugar 1
⁄2 cup heavy cream also refrigerate the tarts at this point, but they taste better at room tempera-
pinch salt 2 T granulated sugar ture, so remove them from the fridge about an hour before serving.
1
⁄2 cup + 2 T all-purpose flour pinch salt
2 to 3 T smooth peanut putter for
swirling

cold
desserts
sour cherry popsicles DIRECTIONS
Makes 8 1⁄3 Cup Popsicles Make a simple syrup by cooking the sugar and water in a small saucepan until
the sugar dissolves, stirring a few times. Turn off the heat and let the syrup
I’m pretty sure I would’ve loved these popsicles as a kid, but the beauty of cool to room temperature.
them is that they’re made almost completely from real fruit. What kind of
treat works out so perfectly like that? They’re able to be enjoyed guilt-free by Process the cherries in a food processor or with an immersion blender until
both children and adults like. completely blended. You should have about 2 cups of blended cherries. Stir
in the cooled simple syrup. Pour the mix into popsicle molds and slip the
I have to confess, I didn’t think much of sour cherries when I first saw them.
popsicles into the freezer until frozen, about 4 hours.
They’re soft and small, the runt of the cherry family. And their color, averag-
ing around fire engine red, screams under-ripe. In short, they go against my To remove, let the mold rest on the counter for a few minutes. Alternatively,
every intuition as a cook and as an eater. But temper them with a bit of sugar, run the mold under lukewarm water for about 20 seconds. They should slip
and the flavor pops. It’s distinctively cherry, but with undertones of warm out with a tug.
spices. I can see why they’re beloved by pie- and jam-makers alike.
Be warned though: sour cherries live the shortest of lives. They blink in and
out of existence in a matter of weeks. Our season’s over already, but perhaps
you can still find them in your markets? If not, save this recipe for next year
because it’s incredibly easy and indulgent. In a good way.
INGREDIENTS
2
⁄3 cup water
2
⁄3 cup sugar
3 cups pitted sour cherries (a little
over a pound of whole cherries)
74 THE TART TART cold desserts 75

blueberry sour cream DIRECTIONS
ice cream Blueberry Sauce

Put the blueberries and sugar in a small saucepan, stir to mix, and bring to a
boil over medium heat. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until
Makes ~ 1 Quart – Adapted from Gourmet
the berries are very tender and the sauce is slightly thickened, about 8 min-
I’d originally been inspired by this awesome-looking strawberry sour cream utes. Remove from the heat, and let cool. Refrigerate until cold before using.
ice cream that Katie had made awhile back. Except I balked at the number of
egg yolks the recipe called for (Nine. Really? Are they really necessary? Does
anyone know what the relation is between number of yolks and consistency/ Ice Cream
taste?). So after a quick web search, I found another recipe for sour cream Blend all the ingredients until mixture is smooth and sugar has dissolved.
ice cream that involved zero yolks, and little much of anything else. It was Chill until very cold, overnight if possible. Freeze mixture in ice cream mak-
the simplest recipe ever: mix the ingredients, refrigerate, churn. Easy. Clean er. Transfer to an airtight container, drizzling in the blueberry sauce intermit-
up consisted of one bowl and one immersion blender (as well as the usual tently. Place in freezer until firm.
assortment of measuring implements, but they don’t count).
The ice cream came out with just the right amount of tang, sort of similar
to the plain-flavored fro-yo that’s so popular these days, but much creamier
and smoother, like Cheesecake Lite. I also love how the blueberry sauce came
out, streaks and pockets and bursts of lovely violet that taste delicately sweet
against the sharpness of the sour cream.
I am a huge fan. And though I’m back in action in the kitchen, this is one
easy recipe that I’ll be coming back to again and again.
INGREDIENTS
Blueberry Sauce Ice Cream
1 ⁄2 cups blueberries
1
1 16-ounce container chilled sour
3
⁄4 cup sugar cream
1 cup chilled whole milk
3
⁄4 cup sugar
1
⁄2 cup chilled heavy cream
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1
⁄2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
pinch salt

pistachio ice cream DIRECTIONS
Makes ~ 3 ½ Cups – Adapted From Bon Appetit Finely grind pistachios in a food processor with 1⁄4 cup sugar (but not too
finely unless you want a lot of granules in your ice cream). Combine this mix
The pistachio flavor is strong, but it’s tempered by the cream so that the and the milk in a large heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat
combination is sensual, not too sweet. My ‘buds are fondled ever so smooth- and mix in vanilla extract and salt.
ly—”hey baby,” the ice cream goes as it melts in my mouth. I also love its
color, soft brown with the barest touch of green, and its texture, which is Whisk egg yolks and remaining half cup of sugar in a medium bowl. Grad-
ever so speckled with pistachio dust. (Of course, that’s completely up to ually whisk in about 3⁄4 cup of the hot milk mixture. (the point of this is that
the maker—if you like your ice cream chunky, go for it. I’ve always been a you want to slowly heat the egg mixture to the same temperature as the milk
smooth peanut butter kind of girl.) In short, this is the best homemade ice mixture so that the eggs don’t cook when you add them fully to the milk mix-
cream I’ve ever made. ture.) Stir the now warm egg mixture into the saucepan, turn the heat back
on to low and add the heavy whipping cream. Continue cooking, stirring
constantly, until the custard thickens (a path should be left behind when you
draw your finger across the back of the spoon). Don’t let it boil.
INGREDIENTS Strain the custard through a sieve (and save the ground pistachios! They
1 cup unsalted, shelled pistachios pinch of salt make a great topping for anything breakfast-y like yogurt or pancakes). Chill
3
⁄4 cup sugar 4 large egg yolks overnight if possible, but at least 2 hours.
2 cups whole milk 1 cup heavy whipping cream Pour the custard into your ice cream machine. If you wish, add the chopped
1
⁄2 tsp vanilla extract Optional: 1⁄2 cup roughly chopped pistachios into the machine in the last 5 minutes of churning. Freeze it fur-
pistachios ther in a container in your freezer until it’s at the consistency you like.

rocky road ice cream DIRECTIONS
Makes ~ 1 Quart – Adapted From The Perfect Scoop Warm 1 cup of the cream with the cocoa powder in a medium saucepan,
whisking to thoroughly blend the cocoa. Bring to a boil, then reduce the
I actually made this flavor to appease the other member of this household. heat and simmer at a very low boil for 30 seconds, whisking constantly. Re-
He’s been so patient, uncomplainingly putting up with a whole queue of move from the heat and add the chopped chocolate, stirring until smooth.
“weird” flavors I wanted to make first like pistachio, and Earl Grey. And Then stir in the remaining 1 cup cream. Pour the mixture into a large bowl,
while he forced them down, he’s a chocolate man through and through. I’m scraping the saucepan as thoroughly as possible, and set a mesh strainer on
also catching on that it’s pretty dangerous for a girl to have whole quarts of top of the bowl.
ice cream sitting in the fridge to herself.
Warm the milk, sugar, and salt in the same saucepan. In a separate medium
Anyway, I am officially a culinary genius in the eyes of my fiancé. And all it
bowl, whisk together the egg yolk. Slowly pour the warm milk into the egg
took was some rocky road ice cream. It may be rich, but it’s creamy and won-
yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the
derful and scoops like a dream. Seriously, I can hardly believe I made it! It
saucepan.
should be sitting in the freezer of one of the ice cream shops down the street.
Not surprisingly, the chocolate ice cream base is a David Lebovitz creation, Stir the mixture constantly over the medium heat with a heatproof spatula,
so you’re pretty much guaranteed that it’s fail-proof. Just keep stirring. scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the
spatula. Pour the custard through the strainer and stir it into the chocolate
mixture until smooth, then stir in the vanilla.
Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, overnight if possible, then
INGREDIENTS freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instruc-
2 cups heavy cream ¾ cup granulated sugar tions. (If the cold mixture is too thick to pour into your machine, whisk
3 tablespoons unsweetened Dutch- Pinch of salt it vigorously to thin it out.) In the last five minutes of churning, add the
process cocoa powder (I used 5 large egg yolks marshmallows and almonds. Or, fold them in when transferring to a contain-
regular) er. Freeze the ice cream until it’s at a consistency you like.
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
5 ounces bittersweet or semisweet 1 cup slivered almonds
chocolate
1 cup mini marshmallows
1 cup whole milk

lemon frozen yogurt DIRECTIONS
Makes ~ 1 Quart – From Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams At Home
Lemon Syrup
This recipe is a bit fussy. It requires very exact timing and the use of many One day in advance, Put a mesh sieve lined with 2 layers of cheesecloth over
many bowls. And I didn’t even make the blueberry swirl because I wanted the a bowl and pour the plain yogurt into the sieve. Cover with plastic wrap and
unadulterated taste of lemon. But I didn’t mind it—following directions gets refrigerate 6 to 8 hours (I kept it in the fridge for over 24 hours and it turned
to be kind of meditative after awhile. Just know that you’ve been warned, if out fine).
you decide to go through with it. For the lemon syrup, first use a vegetable peeler to peel the zest off one
If you follow the directions precisely—ROOM TEMPERATURE cream lemon in long strips. Reserve for the frozen yogurt base. Then juice enough
cheese! I can’t stress that enough—you will most certainly end up with a of the lemons to yield 1⁄2 cup. Combine the lemon juice and sugar in a small
lovely quart of fro-yo in the lightest shade of yellow. It doesn’t turn icy even saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the
after it’s been in the freezer for a few days, it doesn’t melt too fast (or too slow sugar. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
for that matter). It really is the perfect way to savor Jeni’s at home
Frozen Yogurt Base

Remove the plain yogurt from the fridge and measure out 1-1⁄4 cups worth.
INGREDIENTS Set aside.
Lemon Syrup Frozen Yogurt Base Combine 2 Tbsp of the milk in a small bowl with the corn starch.
2 to 4 lemons 1 quart plain low-fat yogurt In a bowl (that will eventually need to fit the entire fro-yo base), whisk the
3 Tbsp sugar 11⁄2 cups whole milk cream cheese until smooth (very smooth! The cream cheese should definitely
2 Tbsp corn starch be at room temperature or it will whisk into clumps).
2 oz. (4 Tbsp) cream cheese, Combine the remaining milk, heavy cream, sugar, corn syrup, and strips of
softened lemon in a large pot (Jeni specifies a pot with 4-quart capacity, but I really
1
⁄2 cup heavy cream don’t think it’s necessary for this particular recipe. A large-ish pot will do).
2
⁄3 cup sugar Bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat and boil for exactly 4 min-
1
⁄4 cup light corn syrup utes. Towards the end of the 4 minutes, whisk the corn starch and milk
until it’s a smooth slurry. Remove the pot from the heat and slowly whisk in
Zest from one lemon, reserved
the corn starch mixture. Return the pot to the heat, and continue to cook,
from lemon syrup
stirring consistently, for 1 more minute, until the liquid starts to thicken.
Remove from heat, and gradually whisk the milk mixture into the bowl with
the cream cheese until smooth. Add the reserved 1-1⁄4 cup plain yogurt and
the lemon syrup. Whisk until smooth.
Let cool, then refrigerate the mixture for about 6 hours. Remove from fridge,
pick out the strips of lemon (you could pour the mix through a sieve, but
it’s quite thick and unmanageable at this point). Pour the mixture into the
canister of an ice cream machine, and spin until thick and creamy.
Once done churning, pour the fro-yo in a container and refrigerate it until
firm.

honey ice cream DIRECTIONS
Makes ~ 1 Quart – From The New York Times Combine the milk and cream in a saucepan and add the thyme. Bring to a
boil. Remove from the heat, cover and let stand for 20 minutes. Strain and
I love the interplay of sweet and savory and this ice cream is both subtle and return the mixture to the saucepan.
satisfying. I can’t decide if the thyme amplifies the honey or the honey am-
plifies the thyme, but it has a very distinct flavor I enjoy very much. Honey Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks in a bowl. Slowly pour in the cream mix-
ice cream on its own tastes so pure to me: it loses its super-concentrated ture a little bit at a time, whisking constantly. After adding a cup, whisk in
sweetness, and becomes creamy and floral and light. Thyme is by no means the honey and add the rest of the cream. Pour the mixture back into the
heavy-tasting, but it adds just that touch of… darkness, moodiness, a slightly saucepan, cook over low heat and stir constantly until the mixture is thick
off-kilter note that’s therefore more complex. An olfactory play on chiaras- enough to coat the back of a spoon. Cool, then refrigerate until cold, 2 hours
curo? to overnight. Freeze in an ice-cream machine according to manufacturer’s
instructions.
Note: The type of honey you use probably matters very much because there
are so few ingredients. Mine was light, kind of a general all-purpose honey.
INGREDIENTS I wonder if the buckwheat honey I tried at the farmer’s market, which was a
1 cup whole milk little too bitter for everyday use, might not work well in this recipe? Also, this
2 cups heavy cream ice cream melts quickly. Maybe the honey’s chemical composition lowers the
frozen custard’s freezing point? I’m not sure, but if serving to a group, you
6 large sprigs fresh thyme
might want to pass out the bowls as you scoop.
4 egg yolks
3
⁄4 cup honey

rhubarb tiramisu DIRECTIONS
Serves 6-8 – Adapted From Luzia
Stewed Rhubarb
If this recipe is any indicator, we Americans like our desserts much sweet- In a saucepan over a low flame, add the rhubarb, sugar, vanilla, and water and
er than European standards. Stewed rhubarb, according to Martha Stewart, cook until soft, 7 to 10 minutes. Turn off the heat, and remove about 1⁄4 cup
calls for 2⁄3 cup of sugar per 10 ounces of rhubarb (or over a cup per pound). of the liquid. Set it aside. Stir in the Grand Marnier. Set aside to cool. This
Luzia recommended 5 tablespoons, or just a little over 1⁄4 cup, per pound. step can be prepared a day in advance.
That’s a pretty dramatic difference. In the end, I settled on 6 tablespoons
for my pound of rhubarb and that felt just about right to me. The rhubarb
retained its pucker, but was nicely balanced by the creamy sweetness of the Strawberries
mascarpone cream and ladyfingers, as well as a few splashes of Grand Marni- Slice the strawberries, stir with the sugar, and set aside.
er. It was such a perfect variation of a normally decadent dessert, and really
ideal for the springtime.
Mascarpone Cream
I have to point out that unfortunately, I am doing this recipe a disservice
In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until well com-
because I didn’t include the macerated strawberries. My access to most fruits
bined. Stir in the mascarpone and mix well. Whisk the egg whites until stiff
has been limited to the bland-tasting crap being shipped over from who-
(I used my stand mixer), and carefully fold it into the yolk mixture.
knows-where, and I know that for this dessert, Luzia is quite particular about
using only local, fresh strawberries. I will make amends by doing it right next
time, but readers, please take note.
Assembling Together
I would layer the tiramisu this way: a layer of ladyfingers that had been
dunked in the liquid removed from the stewed rhubarb on the bottom, a
INGREDIENTS
layer of stewed rhubarb, a layer of mascarpone cream, a second layer of la-
dyfingers, a layer of strawberries, a second layer of mascarpone cream. Feel
Stewed Rhubarb Strawberries free to garnish the top with extra slices of strawberry. (Note: I served the
1
⁄2 lb. rhubarb 1
⁄2 lb. strawberries, plus extra for tiramisu in individual glasses using 2 ladyfingers per glass. However, if you
3 Tbsp sugar garnish decide to use a larger dish, make sure to split the ladyfingers and mascarpone
1
⁄2 tsp vanilla extract 1 Tbsp sugar evenly between their layers.)
1 Tbsp water After assembling, refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving.
2 Tbsp Grand Marnier liqueur Mascarpone Cream
2 eggs, separated
2 Tbsp sugar
8 oz. mascarpone
12 to 16 ladyfingers

beverages
hot chocolate DIRECTIONS
Serves 2
Marshmallows
I love love love the hot chocolate at City Bakery and have been wanting to Oil bottom and sides of 8- or 9-inch square pan. Dust with confectioner’s
replicate it at home for some time now. But with a recipe shrouded in secrecy, sugar.
and a taste that’s like a word on the tip of the tongue—not quite placeable— In the bowl of a stand mixer, sprinkle gelatin over 1⁄2 cup water. Set aside.
the best I can do is create the tastiest, creamiest, thickest hot chocolate possi- In a 3-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan, cook granulated sugar, corn syrup,
ble and nestle in it a giant, fluffy homemade marshmallow. The marshmallow second 1⁄2 cup of cold water, and salt over low heat, stirring with a wooden
will melt, improving the taste/creaminess/thickness even more, and all will spoon, until sugar is dissolved. Increase heat to moderate and boil mixture,
be right with the world. without stirring, until a candy or digital thermometer registers 240°F, about
The attack was three-fold: for the taste, I used good dark chocolate (the last 12 minutes. Remove pan from heat and pour sugar mixture over gelatin mix-
of my Guittard) and balanced it with a pinch of sea salt, a spoonful of sugar, ture, stirring until gelatin is dissolved. With stand mixer, beat on high speed
and a splash of vanilla; for the creaminess, whole milk (this might demon- until white, thick, and nearly tripled in volume, about 6 minutes.
strate a sign of restraint as I could’ve gone the heavy cream route, but see the (This part is kind of annoying, but it’s worth it!) With a clean whisk, whisk 2
note above about Spanish hot chocolate; also, do you really want to drink egg whites in a medium bowl until stiff peaks form. Fold egg whites and va-
ganache?); and for the thickness, corn starch, whisked in with the milk and nilla into marshmallow mix until just combined. Pour mixture into prepared
slowly heated. pan. Sift confectioner’s sugar/corn starch over top, and let stand for about 4
Next, the marshmallows. They are a recipe worth bookmarking unto them- hours or up to 24 hours until firm.
selves. City Bakery’s marshmallows are incredibly fresh, soft, and airy, and I When cutting the marshmallows into pieces, have a lot of the confection’s
found that whipped egg whites helped achieve that dreamy texture. They’re sugar mix ready. Gently remove the marshmallow from the pan and set on a
also large, so that each customer is awarded one per cup. You have to take a large cutting surface. Your knife will stick to the marshmallows with the first
spoon to yours, slowly carving away at it, smothering each bite with a pool of cut, but sprinkle the powder mix on it and it’ll be easier to cut subsequent
liquid chocolate so that it melts away in your mouth. It’s an experience over pieces.
which I dare you not to linger.
Hot Chocolate
In a small heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the dark chocolate with a splash
INGREDIENTS of milk over medium-low heat. Stir. Whisk corn starch with rest of milk
Marshmallows Hot Chocolate (vigorously or else you’ll end up with clumps of corn starch in your drink)
2 Tbsp plus 21⁄2 tsp unflavored 4 oz. dark chocolate, chopped and slowly add it to the melted chocolate. Add sugar to taste. Keep stirring
gelatin 2 cups whole milk until it reaches a low simmer and becomes thick enough to coat the back of
1 cup cold water, divided a spoon. Remove from heat and stir in salt and vanilla.
2 tsp corn starch
2 cups granulated sugar about 2 Tbsp sugar Divide between two cups. Top with giant marshmallows
1
⁄2 cup light corn syrup generous pinch sea salt
1
⁄4 tsp salt splash vanilla extract
2 large egg whites
1 Tbsp vanilla
confectioner’s sugar mixed with
corn starch (about 75%/25%)
for dusting
90 THE TART TART beverages 91

citrus pomegranate DIRECTIONS
mint tea
Muddle mint and sugar in the bottom of a tall glass until mint breaks into
tiny pieces. Add juice and molasses; stir to combine. Fill glass halfway with
ice and top with green tea. Stir before serving.
Makes 1 Drink – Adapted From Martha Stewart
Despite my ambivalence towards juices, I haven’t been able to get a certain

citrus punch out of my head. It was, without exaggeration, one of the most
refreshing beverages I’ve ever drunk. I’ve been yearning for something as
rejuvenating ever since, so it only seemed right to take advantage of citrus
season and try my hand at concocting my own version.
As far as mixes go, I realized the complexity of each type of citrus would be
drowned out if I didn’t curate my selection. So I decided to stick to just two
types, cara cara (or navel) and satsuma. They’re quite complementary.
In the end though, I wanted something more than just a fancy fruit juice. I
wanted a restorative counterpart that would coax me into a zen-like calm.
That’s where the green tea comes in. It adds a touch of earnestness to the
drink that turns it into a balm that chases away all wintry blues.
INGREDIENTS
5 fresh mint leaves cara)
A pinch or two of sugar 1 Tbsp pomegranate molasses
1
⁄2 cup or so fresh citrus juice (I Ice
like a mixture of about half 1
⁄2 cup or more green tea, chilled
tangerine juice and half cara

ginger peach julep DIRECTIONS
Makes 4 Drinks – From Bon Appetit
Ginger Syrup
My favorite part about going out for cocktails is reading the menu. I love Bring the ginger, cardamom, sugar, and 1⁄4 cup water to a boil in a small
drinks that incorporate fresh fruits and herbs, interesting spices, anything saucepan, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Let cool, then strain into a jar. Cover
with a bit of a twist. I’m also envious of all the people who are able to invent and chill.
their own concoctions at home. Given my total lack of knowledge of alcohol,
however, no such creativity has ever graced this apartment.
A Drink
So, in the making of this drink, I decided to play it safe and follow the in- Muddle 1⁄4 of the peach slices (1⁄2 a peach) and 2 mint sprigs in a glass. Add
structions faithfully. First you make a ginger syrup infused with a little car- 2 oz. bourbon, 1 oz. lemon juice, and 1⁄2 oz. ginger syrup. Fill glass with ice,
damom (kind of the reason why I got so excited about this recipe in the first and add 2-3 oz. ginger beer. Garnish with a mint sprig.
place). Then you muddle fresh peach slices and mint. While they’re releasing
the most wonderful smell ever, because what epitomizes summer more than
those two scents, you add in some bourbon, lemon juice, and the ginger
syrup. Finally, in goes the ice (cubed, in my case. Where does the home
drinkmaker get crushed ice? Or do most people just smash up their cubes?),
and a generous pour of ginger ale to top it off.
Afterward, you sip at it slowly while reading a book, something lowbrow
and thrilling preferably, with the a/c blasting. That, my friends, is how I’m
savoring my summer.
INGREDIENTS
1 1-inch piece of ginger, thinly 2 ripe peaches, peeled and sliced
sliced 8 sprigs mint, plus more for
1 whole cardamom pod, cracked, garnish
or less than 1⁄4 tsp ground 8 oz. bourbon
gardamom 4 oz. fresh lemon juice
1
⁄4 cup sugar 12 oz. ginger beer

gin thyme lemonade DIRECTIONS
Serves 4 – Adapted From Martha Stewart In a medium saucepan, bring the sugar, 1 cup of water, and thyme to a boil,
and stir until the sugar melts completely. Turn off the stove and add the
I have to admit, I’m a girly drink type of person. I’ll have none of that neat- remaining 4 cups of water, lemon juice, and gin. Stir, then refrigerate. Serve
scotch, thanks, but give me something fruity, ideally something that masks cold, preferably with ice.
much of the taste of the alcohol, and I am down. I mean, let’s face it, I’m
presenting you spiked lemonade. It doesn’t get more gentle than that. But
it’s good stuff, and the subtle hint of thyme makes it doubly lovely. I can
definitely see it making its debut at your first barbecue of the year. It’ll be a
smash hit, I promise, just don’t serve it to the kiddies (or alternatively, don’t
add the gin).
Another confession: I made this lemonade with Meyer lemons, so I suppose
it’s really a gin thyme Meyer lemonade. I had a bunch lying around that were
starting to shrivel, so I decided to juice them. I encourage you to try this
drink with Meyer lemon juice sometime. Think extra floral notes!
INGREDIENTS
11⁄3 to 11⁄2 cups sugar (according to 2 cups lemon juice
your sweetness preference) 1 cup gin
5 cups cold water
1 small bunch of thyme (10 to 15
sprigs)

limeade DIRECTIONS
Makes ~ 1 Quart – Adapted From Simply Recipes In a small saucepan, bring to a boil 1 cup of water, the lime zest, and the
sugar. Remove from heat and let cool for a few minutes.
My first June in New York I don’t think I’ll ever forget the onslaught of true
heat. It swooped in overnight, along with its partner in crime, Humidity Place a strainer over a large bowl and pour the sugar syrup into the bowl,
(they’re the Bonnie and Clyde of the meteorological world), and together, straining out the zest. Add the lime juice and 2 cups of water. You can
wreaked havoc on the stewing masses of us city dwellers. squeeze in more lime juice if it’s too sweet, or add more water if it’s too sour.
Cool it in the fridge, or serve it over ice and enjoy!
Anyway, Chris and I have, er, implemented certain safety measures to ensure
proper hydration and aeration. Namely, we must always keep the water filter
filled to the very top and the bedroom window open. Privately, I’ve decided
there must always be limeade. Vigilance!
Limeade is king. Limeade is the antidote to the swelter and to the cloying-
ly sweet beverages that I normally avoid. And because you can control the
amount of sugar that goes in, the tart can truly shine through—if that’s your
thing. Chris and I have taken to drinking it alongside hearty burgers; it’s a
great counterbalance. And because limes are so inexpensive, you just might
want to make it all summer long.
Stay cool.
INGREDIENTS
1 cup of lime juice (from about 6 1 T)
limes) ⁄3 to 1 cup sugar
2
grated zest from one lime (about 3 cups water

blueberry basil vodka DIRECTIONS
gimlet Syrup
In a medium saucepan, stir together all the ingredients over medium heat
until the sugar has melted. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat
Makes ~ 1 Pitcher - Adapted From Gourmet
a little and simmer until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes.
At what point is a drink no longer the drink it purports to be? Because I’m Strain the contents into a bowl, pressing hard against the sieve, then discard
pretty certain that real gimlets contain neither lemon juice nor vodka nor the solids. After it’s cooled, cover the syrup and store it in the refrigerator
sparkling water nor basil nor blueberry. I’m pretty certain a real gimlet, at until cold.
least according to authority figures like Raymond Chandler (heck YES), is
just a beverage containing gin and lime juice. Half and half, no more no less.
So as far as naming terminology goes, I don’t know how much artistic license Gimlet
I have to call this cocktail thing a gimlet. It’s based on a gimlet recipe; maybe Stir together all the ingredients into a pitcher filled with ice cubes until cold.
that’s good enough? Or maybe I just need to come up with an original name Strain into individual glasses, filling them up about 3⁄4 full. Top off with selt-
for it to avoid confusion. zer water and garnish with basil sprigs.
Wherever it stands, I can tell you that it tastes remarkably similar to a cer-
tain kombucha flavor I used to be pretty obsessed with. Does that sound
weird? Let me try to explain with this play-by-play: when you take a sip, a
menthol-like taste sort of hits you first that quickly transitions into an herby,
funky tang. It blossoms out, mellows, and leaves behind the very subdued,
almost solemn flavor of blueberry. A mishmash of elements, but kind of
addictive anyway.
INGREDIENTS
Syrup Gimlet
2 cups water 4 parts blueberry basil syrup
1 cup sugar 3 parts vodka
Zest from one lemon 3 parts fresh squeezed lemon juice
1 pint blueberries Seltzer water to top off individual
2 cups packed fresh basil sprigs glasses

blood orange lassi DIRECTIONS
Makes 1 Serving – Adapted From Martha Stewart Peel blood oranges and separate segments from membranes, dropping seg-
ments in a blender (or cup, if using immersion blender). Blend with the rest
When I first tried a mango lassi it was a bit of an “oh my god, what the F is of the ingredients and pour contents in a cup. Feel free to garnish with more
this?!” experience in its own right. Not life-altering, but a smaller explosion. cinnamon if desired.
I don’t order it very often, but it’s a treat I try not to deprive myself of too
often.
This blood orange cinnamon lassi is probably the best alternative I’ve ever
tried to its more popular counterpart. It’s sexier, if you can imagine a sexy
yogurt beverage. It’s understated. Mere suggestion, fathomless depths. I like
it a lot, and I think the cinnamon and orange play very nicely off each other,
a seamless union.
INGREDIENTS
1 blood orange 1 Tbsp honey
1 cup plain yogurt pinch cinnamon

receptacles
& fillings
candied citrus peel DIRECTIONS
Makes Quite A Lot – Adapted From Remedial Eating Peel off the outer layer of the citrus and cut the pieces into thin strips. (You
can cut them into thick strips too, but you’ll need to adjust the amount of
As a kid, I had a voracious appetite for, among other things, Nancy Drew time they simmer in the sugar water.) I peeled vertically, you can peel hor-
mysteries, complex role-playing games, wardrobe [I wore all green], and izontally, just cut them into whatever shape you’d like. Slip the peels into a
weapon [mine was the rapier]—yes, I’m aware this is sounding suspiciously medium pot, cover them with cold water, and bring the water just to a boil
like LARPing, but our game came before all of that, plus we spent most of on high heat. Drain. Repeat: cover the peels with cold water, bring it to a
our time preening ourselves in our imaginary dressing room as opposed to, boil, drain. Repeat once more. Once they’ve cooled a little, use a sharp paring
say, fighting evil), and candy. knife or small spoon to remove as much pith as you can. Set aside.
Nothing, however, could’ve compelled me to eat candied orange peels. It was the equiv-
Using a pot that will slightly crowd the peels (I know this goes against con-
alent of candy for old people, and therefore not sufficiently sweet. I liked greater hits of
ventional wisdom, but I boiled my orange peels in a pot that was too big and
sugar, super-sugar if you will, the kind found in the cheapest milk chocolate bars, sour
the sugar water boiled away quicker than I would’ve liked), add the water
strips, and (I’m shuddering thinking about this now) Airheads.
and sugar and turn the heat to low. Stir until the sugar dissolves, then add
Fast forward fifteen years, and I can’t say I’ve come around much. I actually the peels. Let them simmer for about 30 to 60 minutes until the peels are
don’t think I’ve given candied orange peels a single thought until the mo- translucent and the syrup thickens. (A thermometer will register the syrup at
ment, a few days ago, when I decided I wanted to make panetonne. Which 220 to 222 degrees F.)
necessitated me making my own candied citrus peels of course.
Strain the finished peel and spread it on a single layer on a cooling rack to
cool and dry, 1.5 to 2 hours. When it’s no longer wet but still sticky, toss the
peels in a bowl of granulated sugar until thoroughly coated. Let dry over-
night, then transfer to an airtight jar to store.
Ingredients
2 grapefruits, or 4 navel oranges, separately or their tastes will
or 6 lemons (I hope you get the become muddied.)
idea—I settled on 1 grapefruit 2 cups water
and 2 oranges. Just be sure 2 cups sugar, plus more for
to prepare different fruits coating the strips
106 THE TART TART receptacles & fillings 107

pumpkin brioche DIRECTIONS
Makes 2 9inch Loaves – Adapted From Vermont Creamery Sponge
It’s really really pretty, especially with the swirl (which I’m downplaying be- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix
cause it came out kind of squirrely-looking—but I’m including it in the the milk, maple syrup, and yeast. Let stand for about 10 minutes until
instructions anyway because it really is delicious). bubbly, then add the flour. Mix until smooth. Cover and let rise until
the sponge has doubled, about an hour.
I had a bit of trouble with the dough. You know when you doubt a recipe and
start tampering with it? Probably not the greatest idea when you’re dealing Dough
with something as delicate as brioche, which is this whole complicated eco- To the sponge, add the brown sugar, salt, pumpkin, and eggs, and mix
system of ingredients. But I managed to salvage it, and it came out smelling until incorporated. Switch out the paddle attachment for the hook
richly of pumpkin and all its accompanying spices. It captures the taste too, attachment and add the flour and spices and mix until just combined.
but subtly. Don’t expect pumpkin pie. Instead, imagine soft and glorious On low speed, add the butter, a Tbsp at a time, allowing each piece
air pockets, a thin, toasty crust, and a murmur of spicy pumpkin flavor. It’ll to be fully incorporated into the dough. Increase the speed to me-
make a hell of a French toast this weekend. dium-high and continue mixing until the dough is shiny and starts
pulling away from the sides of the bowl. It’ll make a slapping sound.
If it’s not coming together, add flour, a Tbsp at a time, until it does.
The dough’s going to be very sticky, so don’t add too much flour, only
INGREDIENTS enough so it holds together.
Sponge Dough Transfer the dough to a well-oiled, large bowl and cover it with plastic
1
⁄2 cup whole milk, room 1
⁄4 cup brown sugar, packed wrap. Once it’s doubled in size, an hour to two, deflate the dough, fold
temperature 2 tsp salt it in half (tucking the seam at the bottom), and let it rise again, this
2 Tbsp maple syrup 1
⁄2 cup pumpkin puree time in the fridge overnight.
2 1⁄4 tsp (1 packet) active dry yeast 4 eggs The next day, let the dough come to room temperature, about an hour,
1 cup AP flour 33⁄4 cups AP flour then, on a lightly floured surface, cut it in half. It’s going to be sticky,
1
⁄2 tsp cinnamon but resist the urge to add too much flour. With each half, roll it out to
Swirl 1
⁄4 tsp ginger the approximate width of your loaf pan (about 9″) and about double
4 Tbsp butter, softened pinch nutmeg that in length.
1
⁄2 cup brown sugar pinch allspice Swirl
4 tsp cinnamon 4 oz. (1 stick or 8 Tbsp) butter, Use half the ingredients for each loaf. Combine the brown sugar and
softened cinnamon. Spread the butter evenly across the surface of the dough,
egg wash (1 egg whisked with a and sprinkle the brown sugar mix on top.
little water)
Starting on the short side, roll the dough into a tightly-packed cylinder.
any combination of seeds Pinch the ends and fold them under and into the bottom seam. With
Swirl the bottom seam facing down, gently transfer the loaves into buttered
4 Tbsp butter, softened loaf pans. Cover and let rise until doubled in size.
1
⁄2 cup brown sugar Preheat your oven to 400 degrees. Once the loaves are ready, brush
4 tsp cinnamon them with the egg wash and sprinkle any seeds you’re using on top.
Place them in the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Then reduce the heat
to 350 degrees and bake for another 15 minutes, or until the tops of
the loaves are golden brown and glossy.
Note: I actually baked my dough into one monster loaf and four large
rolls, but the dough should be enough for two loaves
homemade farfalle DIRECTIONS
Serves 4-6 – Adapted From The Kitchn Make a volcano-like mound of flour on the work surface (meaning a hollow
in the center). Crack the eggs into the hollow, sprinkle with salt, then, using
Do you know how transcendental homemade pasta is? If not, you really a fork, gently start stirring the eggs, slowly incorporating the flour from the
ought to try making your own soon. Some of you might be aware that I made walls of the volcano. Once the dough has become workable by hand—a fair
homemade pasta for the first time ever a couple weeks ago. It was amazing! amount of flour will have been worked in—use your hands to incorporate
I tossed the tagliatelle with homemade pesto, roasted asparagus, and white the rest of the loose flour. Once the dough has come together smoothly,
beans, and couldn’t stop crowing over how delicious it was. knead the ball for about 10 minutes. If it’s a little dry, add a splash of water,
I decided to branch out to other shapes. My first experiment: farfalle, which but continue kneading until it’s smooth and sort of feels like clay. Cover the
means ‘butterfly’ in Italian. This shape needs no introduction of course, as ball of dough with plastic wrap so it doesn’t dry out, and let it rest for about
I’m sure we’ve all eaten it many times before. What I love about making this half an hour. The dough should relax and become easier to work with after
pasta is how you make each piece individually, pleating it in the middle just this period.
so, pinching and squeezing, then laying it aside. The transformation is quite
Cut the ball in halves or fourths, and begin rolling a piece out with a rolling
stunning: from unimpressive rectangles of pasta into a neat pile of bowties.
pin, trying to keep its shape roughly rectangular. You want it to end up very
thin, almost transparent. Using a sharp knife, slice the pasta into pieces that
are about 1.5″ by 1″. Pinch each rectangle along the longer side really hard.
INGREDIENTS Roll out the rest of the dough in the same fashion. You’ll now have tiny little
butterfly-shaped pasta. Enjoy! You can also dry them by simply leaving them
11⁄2 cups all-purpose flour Pinch of salt
out covered with a dishcloth.
2 eggs

slow roasted tomatoes DIRECTIONS
Preheat the oven to 250 degrees (Note: My oven only goes down to 300 de-
I think I might’ve mentioned that I like my tomatoes raw, with just a touch grees, so I had to roast them at this temperature.)
of olive oil and salt. But in the case of cherry tomatoes, well, roasting them
slowly on low heat, is a one-up. Cut the tomatoes in half. Toss with the olive oil (so they’re lightly covered)
and lay the halves on a baking sheet, cut side up, along with the garlic cloves.
The taste pierces. It’s so sharply sweet and intense, tomato condensed and
Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Roast the tomatoes for 2 to 3 hours
condensed some more until all its taste is packaged in a shriveled, innocuous
until they shrivel but are still juicy on the inside. (Note: Because my oven was
mass. For these tomatoes, I’m willing to turn my oven on, the oven that had
at 300 degrees, I had to turn the oven off after about an hour and 15 minutes
traumatized me weeks ago, the oven that I’d vowed to part ways with until
because the tomatoes in the corners had started burning. I won’t lose any to
after Labor Day, until after temperatures dip below the 80’s once and for all.
the carbonizing effects of heat!)
A little goes a long way. I’ll be tossing them in salads, on sandwiches, on
bagels, in pasta, whenever I need a boost of tomato action. Which could be To store, let the tomatoes cool and put them in a covered jar in the fridge.
anytime inspiration strikes, like when I walk by the fridge. You may need to cover them with some extra olive oil.
INGREDIENTS
Cherry tomatoes 3 to 4 cloves of garlic, unpeeled
Olive oil salt and pepper

buckwheat crepes DIRECTIONS
Makes ~12 – From David Lebovitz In a blender or with a whisk, combine all the ingredients until smooth. Cover
and chill overnight.
The smell of buckwheat flour is anything but sweet. It’s pungent, it’s herbal,
it’s almost medicinal. And it tastes grassy. Even its color is offputting, a cross The next day, take the batter out of the fridge and let it sit on the counter for
between volcano ash and moon dust. Yet its assertiveness makes it a fine about half an hour. It should be the consistency of heavy cream—if not, add
counterbalance to a good many things. a Tbsp of milk.
The French—bretons especially—use buckwheat flour for making galettes, On medium-low heat, wipe a thin layer of neutral oil in a saucepan (or toss
buckwheat crepes essentially, but sans the milk and eggs, so they’re dairy-free, in a small pat of butter, let it melt, then wipe it around). After a few minutes,
just a mix of flour and water really. I decided to make buckwheat crepes the pour 1/4 cup of the batter into the center of the pan and swirl it quickly. When
easy way, because as David described it, making galettes requires a billig, a the surface is bubbly, flip it carefully. They’re fragile and break easily, so take
râteau, coordination, and finesse, all four of which I’m completely lacking. it easy and don’t tug too hard. After 30 seconds or so, both sides should be
browned, so remove it from the heat. Don’t stress if it comes out oily or just
Et voilà! Behold, that’s how my peach, Greek yogurt, honey, and slivered plain ugly—the first one usually is. (And the second and third, in my case.)
almonds filled crepe came into being. It was très très bon (uh-oh, watch out,
I’m starting to pull out my high school French) Once you get the hang of the right heat setting—for me, I started out with
the stove on low, but notched it up to medium after the first crepe—you
Next up, for lunch, I filled a galette with peppery turkey, ricotta cheese, and should be flipping them out pretty quickly.
scallions.
Serve them warm. I tossed the cold ones into the toaster oven, but you can
Both were exceptional, with the flavor of the buckwheat definitely present, warm them up in the oven as well. And we don’t have a microwave so I can’t
but not loud. Like the non-obnoxious kid in class who makes astute com- test it out, but you could probably zap them in there for 20 seconds or so and
ments but doesn’t jump at every chance to speak, does that make sense? I nobody would know the difference.
enjoyed it a lot actually, especially compared to regular old crepes, which
inherently don’t have a whole lot of flavor. Toppings: the sky’s the limit. I’ve tried them with tomato, basil, and mozza-
rella—delicious; egg, gruyere and ham—delicious. I also suspect these guys
would make for a very satisfying dessert, with a scoop of pistachio ice cream
and a nice smear of Nutella maybe?
INGREDIENTS
2 cups whole milk 1
⁄2 cup buckwheat flour
1 Tbsp sugar 3
⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
1
⁄4 tsp sea salt 3 large eggs
3 Tbsp butter, melted

brioche hamburger DIRECTIONS
buns
In a glass measuring cup, combine one cup warm water, milk, yeast and
sugar. Let stand until foamy, about five minutes. Meanwhile, beat one egg.
Makes 8 Regular Buns – Adapted From Smitten Kitchen and In a large bowl, whisk the flours with the salt. Add the butter by rubbing it
Sprouted Kitchen into the flour between your fingers, making crumbs. Stir in the yeast mixture
and beaten egg until a dough forms. Scrape onto a clean, well-floured count-
I don’t know about you, but I’ve always viewed hamburger buns as purely er and knead (by scooping it, slapping it onto the counter, and turning) until
functional things. They’re receptacles, carb-wrappers, so you don’t get your smooth and elastic (8 to 10 minutes). It should be sticky, so try not to knead
hands dirty while eating the truly desirable bits within. Cheese, for instance, in too much flour.
and grilled onions, and sauteed mushrooms. Oh right, and the patty too. Shape the dough into a ball and return it to the bowl. Cover it with plastic
Buns are integral to the entire structure of the burger, yet they’ve done little wrap and let it rise until doubled (1 to 2 hours).
to niggle my desire, warrant my enthusiasm, or raise lustful thoughts (and
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Divide the dough into 8 equal
shouldn’t they? Given their namesake and all). Until now, that is.
balls. Gently roll each ball and arrange them 2 to 3 inches apart. Cover the
These buns are dreamy: as in, they bake like a dream, come together in a baking sheet loosely and let the dough rise until doubled (1 to 2 hours).
cinch, and their ingredients can be found in most anyone’s pantry. They’re
also versatile: I chose all-purpose, whole wheat, and rye flour to go in mine, Set a shallow pan with water in it on your oven floor or lower rack. Preheat
and they came out hearty but light, soft but complex. But most importantly, the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Beat the other egg with 1 Tbsp of water
they raise the hamburger bun to a higher echelon, one that will no longer and brush the egg wash onto the buns. Sprinkle sesame seeds on top, if us-
be left until the end as an afterthought. And is there anything worse than ing. Put the baking sheet in the oven and bake for about 15 minutes (turning
forcing yourself to eat afterthoughts? halfway through), until the buns are golden-brown. Transfer to a rack and
cool.
You’ll be ready to fire up your grill after making these.
INGREDIENTS
3 Tbsp warm milk 1
⁄2 cup rye flour
2 tsp active dry yeast 2 1⁄3 cups all-purpose flour
2 1⁄2 Tbsp sugar 1 1⁄2 tsp salt
2 large eggs 2 1⁄2 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened
1
⁄2 cup whole wheat flour sesame seeds (if desired)

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the tart tart

the tart tart

57 BAKED DESSERTS pumpkin brioche 108

INGREDIENTS Dip in the tahini hoisin sauce and enjoy!

Rolls Tahini Hoison Sauce Tahini Hoisin Sauce

10 THE TART TART appetizers & sides 11

12 THE TART TART appetizers & sides 13

14 THE TART TART appetizers & sides 15

1 Tbsp lime juice ½ lb carrots, peeled

16 THE TART TART appetizers & sides 17

2 Tbsp fresh cilantro, finely

18 THE TART TART appetizers & sides 19

20 THE TART TART appetizers & sides 21

22 THE TART TART appetizers & sides 23

homemade—easy as pie, Zest of one lemon and a good

26 THE TART TART soups & salads 27

rosemary & olives

28 THE TART TART soups & salads 29

2 small carrots, diced 1⁄

30 THE TART TART soups & salads 31

& pumpkin seed

32 THE TART TART soups & salads 33

1 cup finely diced onions kosher salt and freshly ground

34 THE TART TART soups & salads 35

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3 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 bunch kale (about 3⁄4 lb.),

38 THE TART TART soups & salads 39

42 THE TART TART mains 43

44 THE TART TART mains 45

46 THE TART TART mains 47

3 stalks of green onion, green and pepper to taste

48 THE TART TART mains 49

Salt and pepper to taste stems removed (you can

50 THE TART TART mains 51

1 large onion, sliced thinly 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes

52 THE TART TART mains 53

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped a small handful of grated Parmesan

54 THE TART TART mains 55

58 THE TART TART baked desserts 59

60 THE TART TART baked desserts 61

62 THE TART TART baked desserts 63

64 THE TART TART baked desserts 65

66 THE TART TART baked desserts 67

68 THE TART TART baked desserts 69

70 THE TART TART baked desserts 71

74 THE TART TART cold desserts 75

ice cream Blueberry Sauce

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78 THE TART TART cold desserts 79

80 THE TART TART cold desserts 81

Frozen Yogurt Base

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84 THE TART TART cold desserts 85

86 THE TART TART cold desserts 87

90 THE TART TART beverages 91

Despite my ambivalence towards juices, I haven’t been able to get a certain

92 THE TART TART beverages 93

94 THE TART TART beverages 95

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grated zest from one lime (about 3 cups water

98 THE TART TART beverages 99

100 THE TART TART beverages 101

102 THE TART TART beverages 103