Wellness: Hair & Skin

advertising section

Face VaLue
A primer ON anti-aging products
and procedures

By Ivy Gracie

Some aspects of aging are inevitable: Collagen production slows down, the best defense against aging. Those
containing zinc oxide or titanium
and the skin loses elasticity and volume; cell turnover slows down, dioxide provide a physical barrier
against UVA and UVB rays, and adding
leaving the skin sallow and dull. Add pollutants, the elements, and a few antioxidants can boost their potency.
“Studies have shown that combining
questionable lifestyle choices, and skin can end up looking old before antioxidants and sunscreen is more
effective for preventing sun damage,”
its time. Although there’s still no definitive way to turn back the clock, a Briden says. Natalie Ansari, owner of
St. Paul Skin & Laser Clinic, agrees.
wealth of products and procedures can help slow it down. “Topical vitamin C helps fight free
radicals,” she says. “Vitamin C along
with sunblock is the best protec-
tion you can get unless you avoid sun
exposure.”
Radical Change We can fight damage from free radi-
cals with the help of antioxidants,

F
ree radicals, which can cause
cells to function abnormally,
cause the bulk of skin dam-
age. A certain amount are the
byproduct of normal cell function,
but most come from outside sources.
“Ultraviolet light, environmental pollu-
tion, and smoking generate free radicals
and cause damage to the skin’s surface,”
explains Elizabeth Briden, MD, medi-
cal director of Advanced Dermatology
& Cosmetic Institute in Edina.
found naturally in brightly colored
natural foods, leafy green vegetables,
and red wine. Antioxidants can also be
taken orally as supplements or topically
with creams.
Antioxidants alone, however, can’t
protect against the most egregious
offender: the sun. “Even on a cloudy
winter day, we’re getting exposure,”
says Elizabeth Hagberg, MD, co-owner
of Skin Rejuvenation Clinic, P.A. in
Edina. That’s why sunblock provides
Clarity Begins
at Home
Sunscreen, however, will only get you
so far. Eventually, the battle against
aging will require stronger reinforce-
ments. At-home skin-care regimens
can remedy fine lines and age spots
to reveal younger-looking skin. But a
seemingly endless selection of prod-
ucts and ingredients can confuse even
the savviest of consumers.

120 february 2009 MPLS.ST.PAUL mspmag.com

safety first
! Ingredients to Avoid —Under the
Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C
Act), cosmetics and their ingredients are not
required to undergo FDA approval before they
are sold to the public. According to the FDA,
“This means that manufacturers may use any
ingredient or raw material, except for color
additives and a few prohibited substances,
to market a product without a government
review or approval.” The FDA does no system-
atic reviews of safety.
In order to help keep you safe, we came up
with a list of ingredients to look out for when
purchasing beauty products:

! Methyl, Propyl, Butyl, and Ethyl

Paraben—used to extend product shelf life,
parabens can cause allergic reactions and
skin rashes.

! Diethanolamine (DEA),
Triethanolamine (TEA)—used as emulsi-
fiers or foaming agents, these ammonia
compounds can cause allergic reactions, eye
irritation, and dryness of hair or skin.

! Diazolidinyl Urea, Imidazolidinyl

Urea—used as preservatives, these ingredi-
ents have been found to be a primary cause
of contact dermatitis. Both release formalde-
hyde, which can be toxic.

! Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate—a

harsh detergent used for cleansing and cre-
ating foam. Often derived from petroleum, it
can strip the skin of natural moisturizers and
cause eye irritation, skin rashes, and other
allergic reactions.

! Propylene Glycol—typically this is

a synthetic petrochemical mix used as a
humectant. It has been known to cause aller-
gic reactions, hives, and eczema. It is often
labeled as PEG (polyethylene glycol) or PPG
(polypropylene glycol).

! Synthetic Fragrances—the FDA does

not require manufacturers to disclose ingre-
dients in fragrances, which can have as many
as 200 ingredients. It is impossible to discern
the chemicals because the label will simply
read “fragrance.”

mspmag.com MPLS.ST.PAUL february 2009 121

 Wellness: Hair & Skin
advertising section
To help clear up the confusion,
the Food and Drug Administration
(FDA) places skin-care products into
two categories: pharmaceuticals and
cosmetics. Prescribed by a physician,
pharmaceuticals penetrate the layers
of the skin to affect its structure and
function. Cosmetics (which include
skin-care products), however, are
available over the counter and do not
affect the skin’s structure or function.
A third category, “cosmeceuticals”
(a term not recognized by the FDA),
falls between the two. Containing
biologically-active ingredients (typi-
cally vitamins, herbs, oils, and botani-
cal extracts), cosmeceuticals claim to
have medicinal or drug-like benefits.
They are tested for safety, but testing
whether they live up to performance
claims is not mandatory.
The most well-known anti-aging
pharmaceuticals are retinoids (such
as Retin A and Renova) and alpha-
hydroxy acids (AHAs). Retinoids
reduce wrinkles and increase the skin’s
cell turnover rate to reveal younger-
looking skin; AHAs exfoliate to keep
the outermost layer of skin fresh.
Studies have shown that combining a
retinoid with an AHA creates a more
dramatic result than either prod-
uct alone. “They’re my two favorites
because they’re prescription, they’ve
been around a long time, and they’re
reasonably priced,” Briden says.
Many over-the- counter prod-
ucts, however, attempt to mimic the
effects of the two prescriptive giants.
Retinol, found in such products as
the RoC Retinol Correxion line, is
often confused with Retin A. Both are
derivatives of vitamin A, but Retin A’s
active ingredient is not found in many
products. Still, products containing
retinol may improve mottled pigmen-
tation, fine lines, and skin texture and
t o n e. A H A s a r e av a i l a b l e o v e r
the counter in such products as
Neutrogena Healthy Skin Face Lotion,
but they are at lower, less effective
concentrations than pharmaceutical-
grade products.
But what over-the-counter users
sacrifice in efficiency and strength,
they may recoup in comfort. Because
of their strength and occasional user
misuse, pharmaceutical products can
122 february 2009 MPLS.ST.PAUL mspmag.com
cause irritation, particularly on sensi-
tive skin. Over-the-counter treatments
can offer respectable results without
irritation, and a happy medium might
be found in the cosmeceutical realm.
Cosmeceuticals rely heavily on
antioxidants to prevent and correct
skin damage. “The antioxidants you
take orally are dispersed through-
out your body, so you want to have
a topical application,” Ansari says.
Cosmeceuticals can help prevent skin
damage with the potent combination
of topical antioxidants and moistur-
izing sunscreens, and their correc-
tive products often rely on AHAs
and retinol to lighten, exfoliate, and
restore a healthier, more youthful
appearance.
Cosmeceuticals also utilize chemi-
cals that mimic those already found
in the body, such as pure hyaluronic
acid, which is distributed throughout
the body and functions as a natural
moisturizer, plumping and firming
the skin. “It can bind 1,000 times its
own weight in water, which will help
to rehydrate and tighten the skin,”
says Tamsen Lano, Med Spa services
director for Twin Cities-based Rocco
Altobelli Salons & DaySpas.
Along with enjoying new cosme-
ceutical products, a growing seg-
ment of the population has turned
its attention to products that contain
certified organic and natural ingre-
dients. Fortunately, such lines as Dr.
Hauschka Skin Care, suki, and Aveda
are stepping up to meet the anti-aging
challenge. “A lot of new ingredients
are changing the way skin functions—
increasing cell turnover and stimu-
lating the skin to produce more col-
lagen,” says Shelley Bawiec, director
of spa education for Aveda. And these
eco-conscious ingredients are proving
effective at stimulating collagen pro-
duction and brightening the skin.
Gimme Some Skin
At-home products can be effective,
but outpatient procedures usually
offer more dramatic and immediate
results. Photorejuvenation, for exam-
ple, erases years by eliminating sun-
spots, which can appear at any age but
 tHe cost
of care

Want to know the true cost

of skin care? We scoured the
area to bring you the most
up-to-date pricing for some
of the most sought-after
products and procedures.*

#
At-home Treatments

Pharmaceuticals:
Available by prescription

# Retin A, Renova—reduces wrinkles and

increases cell turnover. $60–$90, three-month
supply for the face.
# AHAs—prescription-strength exfoliant.
$25–$40, three-month supply.
# Obagi Nu-Derm System—available at Skin
Rejuvenation Clinic, this daily skin regimen
functions like a moderately aggressive chemi-
cal peel. $390, four-month supply.

Cosmeceuticals/
Over-the-Counter

# dermAstage—designed by onsite chem-

ists at Rocco Altobelli Salons & Day Spas, this
anti-aging line features pure hyaluronic acid,
an anti-wrinkle cream, an eye cream, and a
pumpkin face peel. $16–$70.
# SkinCeuticals—available at St. Paul Skin &
Laser Clinic and Advanced Skin Therapeutics,
SkinCeuticals features products that prevent
and correct skin damage with topical antioxi-
dants and an array of moisturizing sunscreens.
$29–$150.
# Green Science and Enbrightenment
(Aveda’s two anti-aging lines.)—Green
Science firms skin and smooths fine lines
with a four-product daily regimen, $45–$85;
Enbrightenment addresses skin discoloration
and clarity, $35–$55.

*Prices are approximations.

mspmag.com MPLS.ST.PAUL february 2009 123

 Wellness: Hair & Skin
advertising section
are closely associated with the appear-
ance of aging. “People equate sunspots
with aging even more than fine lines
and wrinkles,” Ansari says.
Photorejuvenation goes by the
names Broadband Light (BBL),
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), and
photofacial. It uses pulsed waves
of light to repair photodamage and
stimulate the production of collagen.
Depending on the type of equipment
and the aggressiveness of the treat-
ment, patients see dramatic results
after two to four treatments—and the
effects can be long-lasting. “If you
wear sunscreen and take care of your
skin, you may not have to come back
at all,” Hagberg says. However, she’s
quick to point out that pigment has
memory. “If I get rid of your brown
spots, and you go to Hawaii and lay
out on the beach, you’re going to see
them come back.”
Exfoliation treatments are also key
to keeping skin looking young and
healthy. “You get a buildup of dead
skin cells, and they’re like a brick
wall,” Ansari says. “It’s important to
keep the dead cells shedding off so
you keep the newer cells toward the
surface.”
Microdermabrasion, a gentle exfo-
liation treatment, is considered a
“lunchtime procedure” because it is
noninvasive and requires no down-
time. Chemical peels, another form of
exfoliation, run the gamut of intensity
from a mild glycolic peel that requires
no downtime to the most aggressive
medical peel that removes the entire
top layer of skin and calls for three to
four days of recovery. For most, super-
ficial peels will stimulate skin growth
without any downtime or risk. “Over
time, they help with age spots, fine
lines, and wrinkles,” Briden says. “For
someone who wants to do something
that’s not costly, I’d recommend a gly-
colic peel.” Typically five or six peels
one month apart will build up enough
collagen and elastic tissue to see a
clinical result.
For those who want a drastic
change in a short period of time, the
MicroLaserPeel can erase years with
just one treatment. “It’s designed to
stimulate collagen, but it will also help
with pigmentary changes and getting
126 february 2009 MPLS.ST.PAUL mspmag.com
off that top layer of skin,” Hagberg
says. “You get newer, fresher skin
cells, and you’re removing the pig-
ment.” Depending on the treatment’s
aggressiveness, downtime will last
between three and six days.
Plump it Up
Even after the last age spot has been
erased, the skin needs support to
convey a more youthful appearance.
That’s why Botox and fillers are the
reigning powerhouses in the anti-
aging arena.
Botox relaxes facial muscles to keep
them from making lines, and its most
common application is in the frown
lines between the eyebrows (“the 11s”)
and on crow’s feet around the eyes.
“You get the most bang for your buck
with Botox,” Briden says. Hagberg
agrees, “It’s a fast, easy way to refresh
how you look.” Results typically last
approximately three to four months.
Botox can solve some of the wrin-
kles, “but you won’t see an immedi-
ate correction with Botox if you’ve
been making a frown for forty years,”
Hagberg says. “So I put filler in those
lines.”
Fillers are smooth gels made of
hyaluronic acids that are injected to
replace volume loss and fill in lines.
Radiesse, a calcium-based filler, is
typically injected deeper into the
skin and is frequently used to plump
the cheeks. Hyaluronic acids will last
anywhere between nine months to
one year; Radiesse is FDA approved
for fifteen to eighteen months.
For the best results in skin care,
combining treatments can deliver
the most dramatic results. “Injections
complement laser procedures,” Ansari
says. Briden agrees. “We always talk
about combination procedures,” she
says. “You do the epidermis for the
surface and to get rid of the discolor-
ation, then you do something on the
lower level with fillers or stimulating
the collagen.” And it doesn’t have to
break the bank. “We can do facials
and spot treatments based upon cli-
ents’ needs and budgets,” says Lano of
Rocco Altobelli. “We’ll find a way to
make it possible for our guests.” *
 #
Outpatient Treatments

Exfoliation

# Microdermabrasion—a lunchtime procedure

to exfoliate the outermost layer of skin. There is no
downtime, and treatments can be performed every
four to six weeks. $120 for face, neck, and hands.
# Chemical Peels—a moderate glycolic peel
stimulates skin growth without any downtime or
risk. Five or six peels one month apart will yield
visible results. $75–$100 per peel.
# Perfecting Plant Peel—standalone treat-
ment or accompanies the Aveda Green Science
or Enbrightenment lines. Recommended treat-
ment is once a week for four weeks, followed by
monthly maintenance treatments. $75 per peel.

Photorejuvenation

# Broadband Light (BBL) is available at Skin

Rejuvenation Clinic and Advanced Dermatology
& Cosmetic Institute. Patients typically require
two to three treatments spaced two weeks apart.
$375 per treatment for the full face.
# Isolaz is available at Rocco Altobelli DaySpas.
Guests generally require four treatments spaced
three to four weeks apart. $325 per treatment
for the full face.
# Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) is available at
St. Paul Skin & Laser Clinic. Patients typically
undergo four treatments spaced four weeks
apart. $550 for the full face.

Skin resurfacing

# MicroLaser Peel—available at Skin

Rejuvenation Clinic. Aggressive laser peel for
resurfacing the skin, removing pigment, and stimu-
lating collagen. Downtime lasts between three and
six days. Typical protocol depends on the condition
of the individual’s skin. $695 for the face.

Injectables

# Botox—paralyzes muscles to keep them from

making lines. Results last approximately three
months. $250 per session.
# Fillers—hyaluronic acids that replace volume
loss and fill in lines. One session lasts between
nine months and one year. Cost varies according
to amount used.
# Radiesse—calcium-based filler injected
deeper into the skin; frequently used to plump the
cheeks. FDA approved to last fifteen to eighteen
months. Costs vary depending on amount used.

mspmag.com MPLS.ST.PAUL february 2009 127