Living France April 2017

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APRIL 2017 F O R T H E L I F E YO U’ V E A LWAY S D R E AM E D O F... completefrance.com
LOZÈRE
Rural bliss and the
Inside Paris
An expat travel writer
shares the secret side of
lowest house prices her adopted home city
in the south of France
Revealed
Where to find
the perfect
work-life balance
CREATURE COMFORTS
Issue 312 April 2017 £3.99
How three couples are making the most of a move across

the Channel with help from their four-legged friends
REAL LIFE z PROPER T Y z PLACES z ADVICE z LIFEST YLE z LANGUAGE z INSIDER INFO
Living the dream
I
t’s always been my dream to live in Paris. I remember out where you have the
walking around in wide-eyed wonder during my very best chance of achieving it
first visit as a 10-year-old child, and it’s where my love in France on p42.
affair with France began. The city cast a magic spell on Having said that, the idea
me back then, and it hasn’t worn off all these years later. of getting away from it all
I still experience a childlike excitement when I visit, and seeing the is rather appealing at times
French capital through travel writer Lindsey Tramuta’s eyes this too, and if I did opt for peace
month has given me a serious case of life envy. and quiet over hustle and
The American expat has been lucky enough to call Paris home bustle then I’d certainly be considering Lozère – turn to page 20
for the past decade, and shares the secret side of her adopted to discover why. And with the lowest average house prices in the
city with us on page 32. I shall be working my way through her south of France, I’d definitely be looking in some more windows.
© LINDSEY TRAMUTA; JOANN PAI
café recommendations on my next trip, which may also include

browsing an estate agent’s window or two…
Of course, there are plenty of other exciting French cities to
choose from, and a new survey revealing the best cities to both
live and work in has made some of them even more attractive. A
better work-life balance is now the goal for many, and you can find Vicky Leigh, Editor
CO N T R I B U TO R S
Laura Habgood Adam Jacot de Boinod Stephanie Sheldrake

Laura is a Brittany Ferries’ property A former researcher on the BBC series A long-term Francophile, Stephanie has
adviser with Holiday France Direct. In QI, Adam is also a published author. been assistant editor on Living France
this issue, she offers advice on how to He meets a group of expats who have for nearly four years. This month she
make the most of a holiday let in France taken their love of cricket with them to takes a look inside the beautifully styled
all year round (page 82). France on page 38. Domaine de Sengresse on page 64.
completefrance.com April 2017 Living France 3

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Contents APRIL 2017 ISSUE 312
42
38
20
Destination Lifestyle Découvrez
20 LOZÈRE 32 THE NEW PARIS 10 APRIL IN FRANCE
Cover story With wide open spaces and the Cover story American travel writer and Paris Find out what’s happening in France this month
lowest property prices in Languedoc, this resident Lindsey Tramuta shares the secret side
hidden gem is worth a closer look of her adopted home city 16 OUR DREAM PROPERTY
Digital editor Emma Rawle explains why a barn
27 ASK THE AGENT 38 POSITIVE SPIN conversion in Dordogne is her dream buy
A property agent covering Lozère gives their Meet the expats who have taken their love of
insider knowledge cricket with them across the Channel
Regulars
28 WHAT CAN I GET FOR 48 CREATURE COMFORTS 14 POSTBAG
MY MONEY? Cover story They say you shouldn’t work with
Our selection of properties for sale across
Lozère to suit all budgets
animals, but three couples prove otherwise
Your views of life in France
18 YOUR PHOTOS
WIN!
Lindsey Tram
30 PEACE AND QUIET À la maison We share your snaps of France The New Paut
Page 12
ris
a’s
How the beauty of the Cévennes National Park

convinced a family to start a new life in Lozère
64 PERFECT COMBINATION 84 ROUTE MAP
Find out how the owners of a 17th-century All the routes to France in one place
42 WORK TO LIVE maison de maître in Landes combined French

and English style to create a comfortable home 86 PROPERTY DIRECTORY
Cover story A recent survey has revealed the
A guide to the buying process, plus properties
top towns and cities to live and work in France.
We take a closer look at the top three
70 FLAVOURS OF FRANCE for sale and to let in France
A recipe for Provençal pissaladière, plus a closer
look at the Pinot Noir grape variety 98 PUCKER UP
To shake hands or faire la bise? Columnist Gillian
On the cover 72 GARDENING Harvey on choosing the right greeting
This month Lozère, Occitanie
Sue Bradley explains what to do in the garden
© Clodio/Thinkstock this month, plus an Open Garden in Dordogne

Pas-de-
Calais
PAGE 10
Rennes Paris
PAGE 42 PAGE 32
Deux-
Sèvres
PAGE 50
Dordogne
PAGE 73
Alpes-
Landes Lozère Maritimes
PAGE 64 PAGE 20 PAGE 38
48
Les pratiques Insight
74 PROPERTY AND 54 GUIDE TO UTILITIES
CURRENCY NEWS Cover story Connecting your French home
The latest from the French property market, to the essential services
plus a currency update
58 VOCABULARY
76 THE PRICE IS RIGHT Learn the vocab for setting up utilities
Buying with a budget of €200,000? See how far
your money will go with our pick of properties
Language
78 ASK THE EXPERTS 61 LANGUAGE NEWS
Our experts give their advice on pensions, civil
We review the latest books, apps and websites
partnerships and moving with chickens
62 FIVE-MINUTE FRENCH
80 ON THE MONEY
The one-off and recurring expenses you’ll need
to factor in when buying a home in France
Test your French with our puzzles
70
82 FOR ALL SEASONS
Advice on how to maximise the income
SUBSCRIBE
potential of your holiday let all year round
5 issues
fo r £ 5 !
See page 46
16
DÉCOUVREZ
April in France
The immaculately laid-out gardens of the Palais de la Berbie in medieval Albi provide a feast for
the senses when spring arrives in France. The palace, together with the Cathédrale Ste-Cécile,
HEMIS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
form what is known as the cité épiscopale, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2010
attracting more than 800,000 tourists every year. On 28 April, Albi plays host to a timed race as
part of the Tour Auto Optic 2000, a classic sports car race that starts on 20 April in the Grand
Palais in Paris and then continues across France, finishing in Biarritz on 30 April.
albi-tourisme.fr; tourauto.com

DÉCOUVREZ
News & events

From garden festivals to outdoor nature events, spring is in the air this month in France.
Catriona Burns shares the key dates, plus the latest travel news and our Easter gift guide
The first of many Through the tulips Hop to it!
1 2 3
The Côte d’Azur is an obvious choice for Nothing says ‘spring’ quite Easter egg hunts always get
flower fans and, this month, the region is like a colourful array of the thumbs-up from the
hosting a brand new garden festival, tulips and throughout family so join in the Grande
Le Festival des Jardins from 1 April to 1 May. the month of April you can Chasse aux Oeufs at the Jardins
Comprising five towns including Antibes, find 300,000 of them blooming Suspendus de Marqueyssac in
Cannes, Grasse, Menton and Nice, the festival around the grounds surrounding Dordogne from 16-17 April. More
aims to protect and showcase the gardens of the Château de Vendeuvre near Caen than 7,000 eggs will be hidden in
area with 10 pop-up green spaces. The theme for the Festival de la Tulipe. See the ornate gardens and once the
for its opening year is ‘awakening the senses’, over 100 varieties of the flower as little ones have scoffed all their
and its activities including flower arranging and you wander around the estate’s winnings, egg-painting workshops
gardening technique workshops, tasting sessions, trees, statues and ponds and soak and other activities will keep them
culinary events and plant markets will do just up the first of the spring sunshine amused so adults can explore the
that. Admission to the festival gardens is free. in this spectacular setting. beautiful grounds at leisure.
cotedazur-tourisme.com vendeuvre.com marqueyssac.com
THE SKY’S THE LIMIT

There is something undeniably uplifting about flying a kite, which
is probably why the annual Cerfs Volants festival in Berck-sur-Mer
remains so popular. Taking place from 1-9 April, the event brings
thousands of wind and sea enthusiasts, athletes and thrill-seekers
to the shores of Pas-de-Calais every year. As well as marvelling at
the colourful kites on display, visitors can also attend workshops,
while the night flight show on Saturday will send your soul soaring.
cerf-volant-berck.com

PITCH
PERFECT
From classical to electronic and pop,
France’s music festivals offer something
for everyone’s musical tastes. We
pick three taking place this month.
WHEN IN NÎMES
Nîmes is often referred to as the ‘Rome of France’ and this month its ancient heritage is celebrated
in the grandest of ways with the Grand Jeux Romains. From 29 April to 1 May, the city’s
amphitheatre will host a re-enactment of the ‘Great Roman Games’ where visitors can travel back in
time by cheering on a spectacle of chariot racing, equestrian vaulting demonstrations, gladiatorial
combat and more. Outside the arena’s walls, the city’s streets come alive with fancy dress parades SPRING SYMPHONY
and interactive workshops for children. Every year the festival takes on a different theme and, this The Festival de Pâques returns to
year, the festival celebrates the Celtic queen, Boudicca. Aix-en-Provence from 10-23 April with
arenes-nimes.com its mix of high-profile conductors and
world-class orchestras and soloists. With
over 20 concerts, there’s something that
BACK TO NATURE
will strike a chord with everyone.
festivalpaques.com
With its lakes, valleys, sand dunes
and cliffs, the Somme Bay is home
to a wealth of wildlife, as you’ll
discover at the Festival de l’Oiseau
et de la Nature from 8-17 April.
With over 400 guided tours on foot,
horseback and bicycle, plus night-
time excursions and harvesting and
cooking lessons, there are plenty of BOURGES BEATS
ways to get back to nature. And if Launched in 1977, the Printemps de
you want to sit back and reflect on Bourges festival is an important date in
this part of the world, watercolour France’s cultural calendar. From 18-23
painting and photography classes April, the festival has performances
are available. The event also runs from 150 artists, fusing popular
two competitions in photography headliners with lesser-known bands.
and film open to amateurs, printemps-bourges.com
professionals and children.
festival-oiseau-nature.com
CAROLINE DOUTRE; FABIEN ESPINASSE; JEAN-PHILIPPE ROBIN; STÉPHANE BOUILLAND
In with the old

© LADISLAUS HOFFNER; CMOIRENC; BERCK-SUR-MER TOURISME; M. FASOL;
Whether you’re in the market for some

antique furniture, vintage jewellery or ELECTRIC VIBE
a one-of-a-kind painting, you’ll find Mixing big names with new up-and-
something to love at the treasure-filled coming acts, the Ptits Bouchons
Antibes Art Fair from 15 April to 2 May. festival returns for its sixth year from
Over 100 French and foreign exhibitors 30 March to 2 April with an energising
will sell their wares under the big top at programme of electronic music.
Port Vauban where thousands of art lovers, lesptitsbouchons.net
antique collectors and jewellery magpies
will arrive to indulge in a spot of rooting and a professional guide but you must hold a
rummaging for their latest find. This year, ticket or register in advance.
visitors can wander around the stalls with salon-antiquaires-antibes.com

DÉCOUVREZ
Travel news
THE WHEELS
ON THE BUS
Paris has rolled out its first driverless
bus service in an effort to fight
pollution and congestion in the
city. Two electric shuttle buses,
able to carry six passengers each,
will operate along a route that
connects the Gare de Lyon and Gare
d’Austerlitz train stations. The buses
will be trialled until early this month
in a designated lane.
TRAVEL IN STYLE
IN A GOOD LIGHT Eurostar has given
passengers an extra incentive to
For the 14th year running, the city of Chartres in Eure-et-Loir will be lighting up for the travel by train after it unveiled a
annual Chartres en Lumières show. Taking place from 8 April to 7 October, the event will new Business Premier lounge in
see light and video installations reflect off the city’s monuments including the UNESCO- Paris Gare du Nord. Situated on
listed cathedral. Visitors can enjoy the spectacle by guided tour on foot or on the Petit Train. the top floor of the 19th-century
chartresenlumieres.com building, the lounge is evocative
of a stylish Parisian apartment with
high ceilings, marble fireplaces and
plush sofas. There is also a cocktail
DID YOU KNOW? bar and an open kitchen serving a
new menu.
PARIS ONLY HAS ONE STOP SIGN NEW TRAM LINE

Construction on a third
tramline in Nice will begin this
WIN!
year and is expected to open in
THE NEW PARIS 2020. Linking Nice airport with the

St-Isidore district, it is expected that
You might not recognise many of the places featured in Lindsey Tramuta’s around 12,000 passengers will use
The New Paris: The People, Places & Ideas Fueling a Movement, and that’s the service daily. Christian Estrosi,
what makes it such a refreshingly charming read. In this colourful guide to the the president of the Provence-
French capital, Tramuta takes us through her own personal Paris, showcasing her favourite Alpes-Côte d’Azur region said he
Parisian hangouts from wine and design shops to the best places for coffee and craft beers hoped the line will attract more
that show the true character of Paris, imperfections and all. Beautifully illustrated with companies to the city.
photographs of the people and places that make this city so unique, Tramuta’s book goes
beyond the Paris fairy tale that we’ve all heard before and tells a story of a new Paris that is GREEN LIGHT
even better and more exciting than we ever imagined. Paris officials want to
The New Paris: The People, Places & Ideas Fueling a Movement is out 18 April. reduce the number of traffic lights
in the French capital in an effort to
We have three copies of The New Paris: The People, Places & reduce congestion and accidents.
Ideas Fueling a Movement to give away. For your chance to win, The mairie is to test a scheme that
visit completefrance.com/competitions would make more use of give-
The closing date for entries is 30 April. way junctions, 30kph zones and
roundabouts. It’s thought that traffic
The New Paris: The People, Places & Ideas Fueling a Movement, lights have already been removed
Lindsey Tramuta, £18.99, Abrams from 40 junctions and by 2018, city
officials hope to increase that to 200.
It’s hoped that the scheme will make
drivers more aware of the road and
Turn to page 32 to read about author Lindsey Tramuta’s life in Paris
© PTRQS
other drivers and pedestrians.

2
1
Joyeuses
Pâques 3
Make your favourite Francophile a very happy

bunny this month and spoil them with these
French-themed Easter treats
4 5
7
8
1 Pâques collection edible doll, £125, marcolini.com 4 Easter egg collection, £50, hotelchocolat.com 7 French cheese hamper, £54.95, finefoodspecialist.co.uk
2 Cornflower seeds, £1.25, wildflower-favours.co.uk 5 Picnic basket, £58, lesjardinsdelacomtesse.com 8 Laurent-Perrier rosé, £44, honestgrapes.co.uk
3 Bonne Maman cherry compote, £3.69, ocado.com 6 Moulin roty rabbit, £16.65, giftsforlittleones.com 9 Macarons, 24 pieces, £17.50, finefoodspecialist.co.uk

DÉCOUVREZ
Social
network
Your comments
We love hearing from you, so why not write us a letter,
send us an email, or join in on Facebook or Twitter? Vicky Renwick @tilleulgites
ST
LET TAR
@LivingFrance
A
@TheFranceShow Great to
little over a year ago I first
visited the place I now call
one with the fabulous
sunset deck). We quickly
ER see so many people still
wanting to live in France – not
home; Montirat in Tarn. It settled into the rhythm of surprising though as such a
was the bleak mid-winter hectic Saturdays doing changeovers, saying great country.
yet I fell in love with our farewell to departing guests and warmly
little corner of France. welcoming new arrivals. Some of my Camping St Hilaire
As the grass started to grow, the leaves favourite times were spent on our deck, @CampingSHFrance
began to blanket the trees, plants I hadn’t sitting out late into the evening, watching @LivingFrance Envious of
yet seen shot up from the ground and the meteor showers and the massive storms the kids’ lunch yesterday...
sun rose higher in the sky. Spring sprung around us. avocado and artichoke salad,
loudly. We began to live outside more and The hot days of summer were replaced beef bourguignon and crème
more, enjoying our surroundings and the by the bright, crisp and sunny days of vanille! #schooldinners
milder weather, and getting stuck into autumn. I love autumn in France; kicking
new projects. through freshly fallen crispy leaves, Two Black Dogs @2BDgz
My handy husband built a raised sun collecting chestnuts to roast on the fire and @LivingFrance I’m not very
deck to make the most of the sunsets digging out my cosy knitwear. brave when it comes to
and we planted a little potager filled with With the delivery of our wood for cheese, loved the Comté and
vegetables and herbs to supplement the winter, the full circle of seasons was Cantal cheese when I tried
wonderful produce from our local market. nearly complete. We enjoyed a Christmas them in Paris.
With our adopted cat from the SPA settling filled with visiting family and newly
in nicely, we decided to grow our brood embraced French traditions. Now, as I Dave Flitcroft
and went in search of chickens so we could think about my first year here, I feel very @Artfrombikeshed
enjoy fresh eggs daily. grounded and connected to the world Renovation restart. Have to
Luckily for me, earning a living also around me, in a way that was missing sacrifice the walnut floor
slotted in nicely as I am able to work from when I lived in England. in favour of underfloor
home. My work days in England were The simplicity of life and the distinct insulation.
punctuated by classes at the gym and seasons here provide a great backdrop
running errands, whereas here in France, to let you live your life a little slower
I enjoy eating a proper meal and going and appreciate your surroundings. It’s a
for a walk or a run. I really started to healthy and friendly place to live life to the
feel the benefits of a more relaxed and
healthier lifestyle.
full and that’s my only wish for the year
ahead – to continue to live life to the full. WIN!
We rent our house in the summer, Fay Younger
moving into a smaller cottage on-site (the Montirat, Tarn The writer of our Star Letter this issue
wins an Olive Tablecloth worth £70,
courtesy of Ville et Campagne. This
beautiful tablecloth is made from
pure linen with striking embroidery
PAWS FOR THOUGHT and print design that will create a
We are looking at driving over to France for our holiday in September. We very sophisticated and stylish table. It
measures 250x150cm and is perfect for
will be bringing our dog so are looking for a nice surf town with local bars
outdoor and indoor use.
and restaurants and a really nice dog-friendly beach, preferably with a villeetcampagne.co.uk
beach bar on it. I have been looking at Gruissan, but I then found out that
dogs are forbidden on all beaches. If you have any suggestions I would be
very grateful if you would let me know.
Jonathan Fisher
Check out these two useful websites which have some good information about
where dog-friendly beaches are located in France: en.plages.tv/dogs/l-france
and blog.patawouf.fr/dog-friendly-beaches-in-france-in-2016 – Ed
If you have something you’d like to share, from anecdotes to holiday snaps, drop us a

facebook.com/livingfrancemagazine
line at letters@livingfrance.com or to The Letters Editor, Living France, Cumberland
House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, GL50 1BB. We reserve the right to edit your letters. twitter.com/LivingFrance

DÉCOUVREZ
Dream property... Every so often we come across a property that knocks

us for six. This month Emma Rawle has fallen in love
with this unique barn conversion in Dordogne
ON THE
MA R K E T F O
€349,650 R
I
seem to find myself drawn to staircase both taking your breath away could either be converted into further
unique properties that are full as soon as you enter. The oak beams and accommodation or, as it already has
of individuality and character, original fireplace mix seamlessly with the a stable block, used to stable horses.
and so it is hardly surprising that modern lighting and underfloor heating And with solar panels, fruit trees and a
this beautiful barn conversion in to create the perfect period/modern vegetable patch I could almost be self-
Dordogne caught my eye. combination. The kitchen also mixes sufficient. The property also includes an
The original barn was built in the modern appliances, including a delightful above-ground swimming pool, perfect for
18th century and the architect-designed range cooker, with oak beams and an cooling off in the hot French sun.
conversion was completed around nine unusual dividing wall separating it from the Looking out of the windows you
years ago, so it satisfies both my love living room. On the first floor there are three would imagine you are in a rural paradise
of period buildings and modern design bedrooms, an office and a stylish bathroom. miles away from anyone, and yet this
and amenities. This property also offers income house is actually only a short drive from
The inside is even more striking than opportunities, with a three-bedroom the shops and just 30 minutes from
the outside, with the stunning vaulted gîte to rent out to holidaymakers visiting Bergerac airport.
ceiling in the living room and bespoke Dordogne. There is also another barn that allez-francais.com

DÉCOUVREZ
the Dord
ogne rive
r
YOUR
Château
de Castelnaud from Sim on Warren
PHOTOS
Email us your photos of
France (with captions) to
pictures@livingfrance.com
See these and lots more on our

Instagram account @livingfrance
Duras, Lot-
et-Garonne
Nicola Lack
Louvre, Paris
Pyramide du p
Caroline Harra
Sunset in Be
aulieu-sur-
Dordogne
umur Peter Arnol
Windmill in Sa d
Diane War gn ier

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DESTINATION
Lozère
Simple pleasures
For those seeking a quiet life where the air is clean and natural
beauty abounds, Lozère ticks every box. This hidden-away
department in Occitanie boasts high plateaux, stunning gorges
and villages of historic significance, says Kate McNally
Y
ou probably know the Gorges
du Tarn, have heard of the
Robert Louis Stevenson
walking trail, and quite
possibly have read about the
Cévennes National Park, but the chances
are you haven’t heard mention of Lozère,
the département that is home to each of
these (or at least a section of them).
Sitting high and pretty in the centre of
southern France, looking down towards
the Mediterranean in the south and over
to the Massif Central in the north, Lozère
hides away from the world, up on its
plateaux and down in its valleys, and is
equally likely to elicit a puzzled “où?!”
from much of the French population let
alone those further afield. Perhaps, as
the country’s most rural and sparsely
populated department with, strangely
enough, France’s highest average altitude,
it doesn’t have much occasion to draw
attention to itself.
All of which means, of course, that if
you want to go somewhere light years
away from the racy glamour of the Côte
d’Azur or the sophistication of Paris, then
look no further than Lozère.
SENSE OF SPACE
“Space,” says Terry Williams, an adopted
Lozérien of longstanding. “What attracts
people to Lozère, either as a place to live
or to visit, is the space. It’s empty. If you
avoid the main tourist traps here, you
can spend a whole day without meeting
more than a handful of people. And
sometimes nobody.”
20 Living France April 2017

April 2017 Living France 21
DESTINATION
What also brings people to the region

is the beautiful and varied nature in
Lozère, from the breathtaking beauty of
the UNESCO-listed Causses and Cévennes
in the south, to the eerie stone boulder
wasteland of the wide Margeride plateau
to the north, and the green pasture
highlands of the western Aubrac area.
The predominant geology of Lozère is
limestone through which the rising
waters in prehistoric times cut swathes
of canyons through the mountains,
leaving lacing rivers and valleys in their
midst. The many villages and hamlets
that grew up in the folded valleys of the
gorges have a mystical, vaporous charm tourists drawn to the Tarn valley with
that lends them a Brigadoon-like aura to its incredible views and feast of outdoor
newcomers lured hypnotically down the activities – canoeing, climbing, swimming,
steep mountainside. rafting, hiking, cycling.
It’s impossible not to make this
comparison on the approach into the RELIGIOUS CENTRE
stunning village of Ste-Enimie, wrapped Mende is the principal town and préfecture
inside a coil of the Gorges du Tarn. of Lozère, located on the River Lot. As
One of France’s most enigmatic plus with the region, the town has its roots in
beaux villages, the village even has its own religion, developing through the Middle
legend – a princess cured of leprosy by the Ages as Christian pilgrims came to visit
magical waters from a local spring. Just the hermitage of Saint Privat de Mende
10 minutes further into the canyon, the who was martyred in the mountains of
tiny hamlet-village of St-Chély-du-Tarn Gévaudan in the third century. From the Opening pages: Ste-Enimie occupies an idyllic
is similarly mesmerising, with higgledy- 10th century, Catholic bishops and high position on the Gorges du Tarn
piggledy pretty stone houses (mostly clergy took up residence when granted
This page, clockwise from main photo:
holiday gîtes) and its own Roman chapel control of the Gévaudan province, and Sunbathers enjoy the beach on the banks of the
nestling into the underbelly of the cliff. in 1369 Pope Urbain V commissioned the Tarn at St-Chély-du-Tarn; Mende’s Gothic
In the winter, as the sun goes down and construction of the Gothic Cathédrale Cathédrale Notre-Dame-et-St-Privat; the pretty
cobbled streets of Ste-Enimie; the Aubrac plateau
without a soul in sight, visitors could Notre-Dame-et-St-Privat which towers
be forgiven a slight unease. But in the authoritatively over the town. He died a
summer months, it’s a different story year after building commenced, missing its
as the campsites and holiday homes completion by a matter of 100 years or so!
accommodate the large numbers of The cathedral is clearly too big for
THESE PAGES: LAMAX/FOTOLIA; STUDIONATURE.COM-PER; SIGURCAMP/THINKSTOCK; EMMA RAWLE

OPENING PAGES: © CLODIO/THINKSTOCK
MORE
ONLINE
A complete guide to
the Occitanie region
completefrance.com/
regions-of-france

Fact file
Department:
Lozère
Region:
Occitanie
Capital:
Mende
Tourist information
lozere-tourisme.com
Where to stay
Hôtel de France
9, Boulevard Lucien Arnault
48000 Mende
Tel: 00 33 (0)4 66 65 00 04
hoteldefrance-mende.com
Lo d’ici
Gîte d’étape et de séjour
Le Couderc
48260 Nasbinals
lodici-aubrac.com
Where to eat
In the town…
Restaurant Hôtel de France
See above for contact details
(don’t miss regional specialities Fleur
d’Aubrac beef and Pélardon cheese!)
On the plateau…
Auberge la Baraque des Bouviers
Station de pleine nature les Bouviers
48700 St-Denis-en-Margeride
Tel: 00 33 (0)4 66 31 04 52
La Lozerette
48400 Cocurès (near Florac at
the junction between the Tarn
and the Tarnon)
lalozerette.com
Climate
In line with the high altitude,
winters can be very cold and most
places get snow, particularly on the
the size of Mende which only has 12,000 pilgrimage trails is the Way of Saint James higher Causses and Mont Lozère.
inhabitants,” laughs Emmanuelle Soulier, (le Chemin de St-Jacques-de-Compostelle), The pay-off is that summers are not
historical guide and native of Mende. “But that runs through the département on too hot and sticky, usually around
the church was rich and the clerics wanted its way down from Le Puy-en-Velay to 30-35°C max in the shade.
to show off the prosperity of the town.” Galicia in Spain. There is also the trail of
The cathedral is perhaps best known Urbain V, known as the Great Hiking Trail, Getting there
for the ‘Non Pareille’ bell, added in 1516, which makes a horizontal hop across the By plane: With no airports in
heralded as the biggest bell in the world country en route for Avignon (the papal Lozère, the nearest options
until it was dismantled and melted to seat of Urbain V) in honour of local lad are Rodez, Montpellier and
make canons during the religious wars of Guillaume de Grimoard who went on to Clermont-Ferrand.
the second half of the 16th century. become pope. Or, you could pick up part
Steeped in religious history, from the of the Régordane Way taken by pilgrims By train: Eurostar and
early Christian monks who came seeking to worship Saint Gilles, or the Chemin TGV/SNCF to Mende via Paris
silent refuge, to taking centre stage in Camisard in the Cévennes in the footsteps or Lille.
the wars between the Catholics and the of the Huguenots fleeing persecution from
Huguenots, Lozère remains a popular the king’s soldiers. By car:
place for pilgrims. One of the best known Of course, today most visitors make Via the A75.

DESTINATION
Don’t miss
Guided visit of historic Mende and
the cathedral with Emmanuelle –
Interesting and great fun!
La Garde-Guérin and the Aven Armand – Find time to European Bison Reserve – Way Open-air sculpture in Altier
Gorges du Chassezac – On the see the largest stalagmite in the off the beaten track, in the middle – Stirred by a desire to wed his
eastern border of Lozère, the world (30m), protruding among of the Margeride wilderness, you passion for art to the rugged
medieval fortified village of La another 400 or so glittering can visit the 200-hectare park by terrain of Altier where he lives,
Garde-Guérin is perched 860m stalagmites, 112m below the sleigh or horse-drawn carriage sculptor Bernard Didelle led a
high atop a steep cliff. Also a surface in Aven Armand on and meet the 40 or so bison living project to create an intriguing
plus beau village, with a tower Causse Méjean. wild. A handful were first brought art nature path that showcases
(pictured) and Romanesque across from Poland in the 1960s contemporary sculpture by
church both listed monuments Boatmen of the Gorges du Tarn as part of conservation efforts to international artists in the natural
historiques, La Garde-Guérin is a – Up until the early 20th century, save the almost extinct species. setting that inspired their work.
must-see for its cultural heritage the small villages in the gorges
and the breathtaking (and of the River Tarn and River Jonte
breath-holding) views down over were accessed principally by boat,
Chassezac Gorge on one side and and there were several boatmen
the fast-flowing River Altier on the (bateliers) ferrying locals across
other. From the village, you can and along the rivers. In Malène, in
take a path down to explore the the heart of the Gorges du Tarn, a
stunning Gorges du Chassezac small group of boatmen keep the
on foot, along 30km of paths and tradition alive offering tourists a
trails with suspension bridges unique visit of the canyon and a
crossing the River Chassezac. taste of a bygone era.
the ‘pilgrimage’ to feel close to nature “reasonable”, according to Terry, but

rather than any particular religious figure, have been pushed up in recent years
and to enjoy the historical monuments with more people buying second homes.
along the way. They even have a literary “There are still a number of old stone
option, following the route taken by farmhouses ready for the intrepid amateur
Robert Louis Stevenson with his donkey, builder to spend years renovating, and
Modestine. In short, a comprehensive they can be very cheap,” he says. “But
network of walking (and cycling) highways anything in or around the Gorges du Tarn
and byways caters for all levels of effort or or other major tourist centres is going to
© CDT48 CV; FREDERIC BROSSET/THINKSTOCK; KATE MCNALLY;
non-effort, as required. be very expensive.”

For those living in Lozère, employment For Terry and his French wife, Lozère
centres around agriculture, tourism and was one of the first places they looked
civil service jobs, notably teaching and when it came to putting down roots after
nursing. The region is recognised for its a career that took them around the world.
efforts protecting the traditions and savoir “The climate suits us, we like the feeling
faire of its rural and industrial past, in of space, the clean air and the people who
STUDIONATURE.COM-PER
particular traditional farming methods, live here.”

such as the practice of transhumance, and It would seem that for those who like
Above: The Tarn river is the 19th-century woollen mills. the simple things in life, there really is no
popular with canoeists Property prices in the area are mostly better place to be.

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The only French

property site using
France’s new regions
From traditional gîtes to beautiful
châteaux, converted barns to luxury villas
- there really is something for everyone
at your improved France Property Shop
IMAGE: ©Xantana|Dreamstime.com

€91,000 DESTINATION
Average house price
€1,310m2
Average apartment price
How much would you pay for:

Lozère: ask the agent
A three-bed townhouse? No one knows the area like a local estate
Between €80,000 to €150,000. It agent. We asked Marcel Savajol of Marcel
depends on where it is, and what the
Immo for the inside track on Lozère
interior conditions are like, etc.
A detached property in good How much are the cheapest and most What do they tend to want to buy?
condition with a garden? expensive properties you have for sale? They are interested in typical houses; what
The price would range from €150,000 Prices can be anything between €30,000 we call character houses in France. The
to €250,000. It can also depend on to €1,000,000. Obviously, the houses surrounding environment is also important
whether it’s a typical stone house or going for €30,000 need lots of work. to them – the view, the garden, and they
a recently built property. also like to be close to a small village,
Can you tell us about the typical near to local amenities. Some of them
A renovation project? architecture of the area? are willing to undertake lots of work on a
Depending on the size of the house There are four main areas. Cévennes in property, and they often plan to carry it out
and where it is, somewhere between the south has lots of houses built with themselves. Meanwhile others are looking
€50,000 to €100,000. shale stones, and you can also find old for farmhouses with the intention of living
silk barns that are typical of the area. there all year round.
Average house In Margeride, houses are typically made
prices in Occitanie from granite. The windows are small, in What is the property market in Lozère like
order to protect from the cold in winter, at the moment?
Lozère €91,000 and there is the typical fireplace made It is very dynamic and, with spring and
Ariège €105,800 of stones that we call ‘cantou’. Gorges summer holidays approaching, there
Aveyron €110,000 du Tarn is another area, where you will is a greater demand for second homes.
Tarn €133,500 find lots of houses made with shiny Lozère is attracting more clients who
Hautes-Pyrénées €134,200 pebble from the River Tarn. Lozère is a are eager to come and live in a natural,
Aude €134,500 somewhat rare area where you can still protected environment.
Lot €136,400 find very old houses, that we define as
Gers €143,000 dans son jus (meaning it’s still in its What are your predictions for the property
original condition). market in the coming months?
Tarn-et-Garonne €144,000
Lots of our clients are looking for second
Pyrénées-Orientales €174,000
What sort of budget does your typical homes, so the next few months are going to
Gard €193,100
British buyer have? be busy. The outlook for 2017 is good due to
Hérault €214,000
UK buyers tend to have a budget between low interest rates, confidence in investing in
Haute-Garonne €226,000 €100,000 to €200,000. It usually depends the French property market, and the return
Source: Notaires de France on whether they want to do work to the of UK buyers. It’s a very good time to buy!
property or not. marcelimmo.com
Find a property for your budget
ON THE MARKET
€3
00
16
,0
60
,0
00
€3
Rural retreat: Nestled at the style with wooden panelling Stylish living: The outside two cellars, a large living
edge of a lush green forest, this and floors, and exposed stone courtyard, garden and room with a period fireplace
five-bed farmhouse would be walls that give a timeless feel. stone staircase provides an and a kitchen overlooking
perfect for someone who loves The outdoor terrace is ideal for impressive welcome to this the terrace. The property also
to be at one with nature. The appreciating the large garden stylishly renovated property includes an independent barn
interior is finished in a traditional and its valley views. in Mas-St-Chély. Inside are and garage.

DESTINATION For more properties for
sale in Lozère visit
francepropertyshop.com
Lozère: on the market

Whether you want to live in a country farmhouse or a fairy-tale château, Lozère has lots
to offer. Our pick of homes for sale includes something to suit all budgets and tastes
€88,700 €109,900 €260,000
1 Situated 15 minutes from the

commune of La Canourgue, this
farmhouse offers countryside views and
2 Turquoise-coloured shutters give this
stone-built property in Blavignac a
typical French feel. The property comes
3 Located near the pretty hamlet of Le
Pont-de-Montvert, this characterful
house is in move-in condition. Built
a quiet atmosphere. The property is set with an outbuilding while the main from granite stone, three of its five
on 3,000m² of land and includes several house features a cellar and a laundry bedrooms are en suite, while low
outbuildings. In need of some work, room. Boasting stunning open views, the sloping ceilings and a woodburner
it would be perfect for someone who property is close to local amenities, while give a cosy feel. There is also a two-
wants to take on a project. the A75 is 2km away. bedroom detached gîte with a terrace.
Contact: Selection Habitat Contact: Selection Habitat Contact: Marcel Immo
selectionhabitat.com selectionhabitat.com marcelimmo.com
€290,000 €498,500 €1,095,000
4 Close to Ste-Enimie and bordering the

Tarn river, this stone-built property
comprises two small houses and several
5 This charming listed manoir was
built in 1760 and many of its original
features still remain to this day. The
6 Nestled in the mountains, at the edge
of the Cévennes National Park, this
impressive 14th-century château has been
outbuildings, all set in five hectares of land. property is located beside a quaint built with local grey stone. Boasting towers,
Both houses have already been renovated, church and offers stunning views of the a central courtyard and five acres of
yet still retain a number of original features Margeride area. With seven bedrooms and woodland, it has true fairy-tale charm. It
including vaulted stone ceilings, and could three spacious reception rooms, there’s also comes with several outbuildings and
easily be rented out. plenty of room to host visiting guests. self-contained apartments.
Contact: French Property Centre Contact: Sifex Contact: My French House
frenchpropertycentre.com sifex.co.uk my-french-house.com

DESTINATION
Lozère: Peace and quiet

It was the tranquillity and natural beauty of the Cévennes
National Park that attracted one Dutch family to start a
new life in Lozère, as Stephanie Sheldrake finds out
I
t takes a certain type of guest to Mont Lozère appeared as a green spot energy in Cévennes. “This ancient land
make it to La Source de Castagnols. on the map and caught our attention,” is full of energy and steeped in history,
Nestled in the heart of the says Henk-Jan. The holiday reminded with unrivalled silence, abundant nature,
Cévennes National Park, far from them of a feeling they had during a no pollution and dark nights. It was an
major roads and towns, the remote world tour in 1993 when they stayed in a extraordinary experience.”
chambres d’hôtes is a haven for those remote village near the Afghan border in Having fallen in love with the area,
who seek a quiet stay, surrounded by the north-east Pakistan. “The energy there the couple began their search for suitable
untouched natural beauty of this ancient was strong and the landscape stunning,” properties. “We found the property on the
forested land. remembers Henk-Jan, who felt the same internet in 2005, after five years of intense
This was precisely what attracted searching with estate agents. It was a
Dutch couple Henk-Jan and Marjoleine beautiful project: completely abandoned,
d
Spruijt to this unspoilt green enclave Henk-Jan an uninhabited for the past century with an
ine Spruijt
in the south of France. The couple had Marjole unsuccessful refurbishment attempted 15
been living in the Netherlands where years ago. It was situated in the heart of
Marjoleine worked as a surgical assistant the Cévennes National Park, part-roofed,
in a hospital and Henk-Jan ran his own part-ruin with several inner courtyards,
architect business. archways, terraces and forested grounds.
It was during a holiday in the late It was surrounded by a village with
1990s when the couple discovered authentic character, built in natural
the Cévennes National Park. “We were stone,” explains Henk-Jan.
looking for a family holiday somewhere Thanks to Henk-Jan’s expertise as
surrounded by nature, with no hustle an architect, he knew that the project
and bustle and far from major roads. was feasible, albeit complicated. “I said

Left: La Source de Castagnols chambres d’hôtes is
situated in the heart of the Cévennes National Park
Right: Guests can enjoy an evening meal overlooking
the breathtaking scenery
Below left and right: Henk-Jan and Marjoleine renovated
the farmhouse into a stylish and comfortable home for
themselves and their guests
to Marjoleine, ‘If you say yes, we’ll go for

it’. And she did. That’s how the project
started,” he says.
Since the couple bought the neglected “The breathtaking countryside of the
farmhouse 11 years ago, they have
continually renovated it. “When we moved Cévennes is something we fell in love
in May 2006 we had no mains water or with. The diversity, the remoteness,
electricity; no landline or mobile phone
signal; no toilet, bathroom or kitchen; and having the feeling you are but a guest.
no windows or doors. We worked day and It makes you more down to earth”
night for a year. It was very hard work and
the beginning was undeniably difficult.
Four months in, we finally got electricity closely with the local tourist offices and local produce, respect the core values
and after nine months, we had a telephone the Cévennes National Park. that we have set ourselves and yet have
and the internet. We had installed 32 Running a chambres d’hôtes may be that little spark of modernity.”
windows and doors and we finished hard work, but the couple have enjoyed When the couple moved their children
the chimney, meaning that just before building relationships with their guests; an were nine and seven years old. “We set
Christmas we were able to heat the living aspect of their new lives that they hadn’t 10 years old as our limit, and we found
space,” remembers Henk-Jan. anticipated. Meeting so many different the project just before that. That was in
The renovation work proved harder people from different backgrounds has 2006, when we emigrated to France. We
than they had anticipated, and the lack been interesting. “It’s like we travel in our always involved them in the process and
of telephone line and internet connection own home. It is a continual cultural and projects to make sure they were a part of
in the beginning delayed the couple from intellectual exploration,” says Henk-Jan. it,” says Henk-Jan. At the time of moving,
setting up their website, which is the main “People that come here have the same the children didn’t speak French and as a
way that guests find them. awareness as we do. They too believe in consequence found the first few months
Despite the setbacks, the finished result being respectful of your surroundings, in France difficult. “They found their
is stunning. The charming renovated fellow human beings and the hard work way after a few months and learned
farmhouse built from local stone fits of previous generations that is all around French at an incredible speed. Their
seamlessly into its surroundings. The us. Meeting our guests has been hugely flexibility is astonishing. The social
chambres d’hôtes bears the name of the enriching for us. It is a win-win situation.” impact was big for them but they really
ancient water source that flows on its land, The couple enjoy offering their guests do see the advantages.”
‘La Source de Castagnols’, and probably table d’hôte, which allows them to really For Henk-Jan and Marjoleine, a return
dates from the 13th century. It retains get to know them and truly share what to nature has been of vital importance,
many character features including thick they have on offer. “We do the cooking and for Marjoleine, she never ceases to
stone walls, heavy chestnut beams and a together every evening, and we have each be surprised by the fact that for the first
dining room with a large fireplace. developed our own domain of expertise time in her life she cannot hear the noise
in the kitchen. We have a big selection of of cars, and can see the stars shimmering
BEING GREEN cooking books and draw our inspiration in the night sky every night. The light of
The couple were keen to do their bit for the from everything, really, from newspaper the Milky Way can even be seen here.
environment and the chambres d’hôtes is articles to television series and most of But life in this remote part of France
recognised by the Cévennes Ecotourisme all from our surroundings. Just like the isn’t easy. “You need to truly work
body. Henk-Jan and Marjoleine also work architecture, the cooking should involve to live, rather than work for a living.
It makes you think differently about
everything you do. It is like things here
matter more,” says Henk-Jan, adding: “It
makes you feel like you’re really living
and gives you a purpose in life. The
breathtaking countryside of the Cévennes
is something we fell in love with. The
diversity, the remoteness, having the
feeling you are but a guest. It makes you
more down to earth.”
castagnols.com

LIFESTYLE
32 Living France April 2017

Uncovering a new side of Paris is at the heart of Lindsey
Tramuta’s blog, Lost in Cheeseland. She tells Catriona
Burns why the French capital is the perfect place to live
L
indsey Tramuta could be a born United States to complete her studies,
and bred Parisian. Sitting in an Lindsey focused on returning to France. She
11th arrondissement café, the eventually came back to study at Boston
Philadelphia native looks the University’s Paris campus before enrolling on
epitome of effortless chic in a a master’s degree in global communications
crisp white shirt and cropped navy chinos, with the American University of Paris.
tucking into a dessert that looks almost too “I graduated from college and just never
good to eat. left,” says Lindsey who married her French
But mastering the art of French style is not husband while she was still studying.
the only reason why Lindsey could pass for a Unsure of what to do once she had
Parisian. As the award-winning writer behind graduated, Lindsey started a blog,
Lost in Cheeseland, a blog about food, life and documenting what she did, ate and saw while
travel in Paris, Lindsey knows more about living in the City of Light.
Clockwise from main
image: The Boot Café in where to go and what to do in the French “I used the blog to figure out what stories
Paris’s 3rd arrondissement; capital than most. I wanted to tell,” she says. “I started paying
a hidden Parisian “There’s so much happening here,” she attention to what exhibits were happening
courtyard; Lindsey loves
finding the city’s best
enthuses. “You’ve got access to all these and that curiosity led me to get out and
sweet treats; the blogger amazing things; from the best food, the most explore in a way I hadn’t been. It was really
at home with her husband amazing art and designers and yet you can about getting out there and feeling like I could
still go home and live a very homebody life,” find my own place within the city,” she says.
© CHARISSA FAY 2017; LINDSEY TRAMUTA; JOANN PAI,
she says. Not only did the blog cement her place
A Paris resident for over 10 years, Lindsey within Paris, it helped her to find her feet
got her first taste of the city as a student while professionally too, and she began writing
on a six-month study programme. “It was full-time, with articles published in The
an eye-opening experience,” she remembers New York Times and The Wall Street Journal
before adding, “and it’s when I met my now- among others. “The blog was a good window
husband”. Falling in love with a Frenchman for when I wanted to take ideas to more
in Paris is not a dream many would readily ambitious places,” she says.
give up and so, when she got back to the Perhaps most ambitious of all was writing

LIFESTYLE
a book, and this month sees the publication

of her first called The New Paris: The People,
Places & Ideas Fueling a Movement. Just like
her blog, the book puts the spotlight on
the new trends and people that are making
France’s capital a more whimsical and vibrant
place than its traditional reputation might
suggest. It shows a new side of Paris that
Lindsey was focused on.
“I was getting a bit frustrated seeing the
same narratives about Paris. I didn’t even
want to include the Eiffel Tower in the
book,” explains Lindsey. “There’s so much
happening here that makes it so special.
Whether it’s urban development, the food
scene; it all plays into the fairy tale that
people have, it’s just a different version of the
fairy tale. People who come to Paris will want
to see more than just that surface level. It’s a
different layer; it’s a more local layer for sure.”
It’s quite possibly this small-town feel that
has Lindsey so infatuated with the French
capital, and she is clearly very happily settled
in her own little pocket of Paris, in the 11th
arrondissement of the city.
“I’ve lived in the 11th from day one,”
she explains. “We found a place that was
relatively affordable and we just haven’t left.
I love the atmosphere and how much choice
there is in terms of food and nightlife. It has
its own village feel yet it’s an interesting
starting point to easily access a lot of other
Clockwise from top: Trying
destinations in the city. I have my favourite out different boulangeries is
bakery, coffee shop, cheese guy… I have part of the job; Lindsey met
© LINDSEY TRAMUTA; JOANN PAI, CHARISSA FAY 2017
trouble imagining where else I would many of her friends by going

to cafés; the Left Bank
feel this comfortable,” she smiles. “Every
bookshop Shakespeare and
neighbourhood has its own vibe; this one’s Company; the cover of
very particular, but it suits us quite well.” Lindsey’s new book; Lindsey
As such a familiar face on the Paris social has discovered many Paris
hot spots by going off the
scene, Lindsey now has a good network of beaten track
friends, many of whom she met through
social media platforms including Instagram
and Twitter, but she says it wasn’t always

“I sort of blossomed when I came to
France; I became more sociable because I
had to. Paris asks the person living here to
push themselves to get out there”
Win!
that way. “It was difficult at the start, and of a social butterfly. “Doing enough stories
it did take time,” she remembers. Striking introduced me to lots of chefs, pastry people,
up conversations with people in cafés and chocolate makers, crafters,” she says, before
attending literary events in creative venues she explains how she hears about the city’s
such as Shakespeare and Company gave cultral happenings. “Some of it’s word of
her the chance to connect with like-minded mouth, Instagram is very helpful too – a lot
people. “I sort of blossomed when I came of these Parisians are active in documenting
to France,” she smiles. “I became more what they’re working on and it’s a good
sociable when I came to Paris because I had way to make sure I don’t miss anything. My
to. Paris asks the person living here to push network also expanded dramatically when
themselves to get out there.” I was researching the book. I spent months
It would seem that since arriving in going around and interviewing various people
Paris, Lindsey has been at the forefront of – over 50. One of my friends is connected to
Turn to page 12 the cultural scene. “Even within my own the nightlife scene and he told me ‘talk to this
For details of how to enter to win a neighbourhood I’m quite aware of what’s person’, and so it was a chain reaction; I’ve
copy of The New Paris: The People, going on,” she explains. And it’s clear that her been exposed to a lot of people that I wouldn’t
Places & Ideas Fueling a Movement work has transformed her into something initially have thought to reach out to.”

LIFESTYLE
Lindsey’s
secret Paris
Miznon is a little taste of Tel
Aviv in Paris with incredible
pita sandwiches and a
rollicking vibe you can
count on with each visit.
La Commune. I love the

idea of pairing French spirits
with the punchbowl format.
Sullivan Doh, co-owner and
head mixogolist, is doing
great things here!
Le Pavillon des Canaux

is kitted out like the inside
of a home. I love that you
can take your coffee and a
piece of cake and indulge
in the upstairs bathtub or
in the bedroom, with views
overlooking the Bassin de
la Villette.
Mandoobar is a wonderful
Korean dumpling tasting
restaurant. It’s a bit far But while her work takes her to some of
removed from the city Paris’s most fashionable spots, Lindsey is just
centre but well worth the as happy being at home with her husband.
advanced planning. “On the weekend my husband and I will
go out to eat, we go to the market and we buy
Pigalle Basketball is a cheese for the week,” she says. “We’ll have
city-operated basketball an apéro at a local wine bar and then come
court tucked between two home to cook. We have two cats called Charlie
residential buildings with and Leo who we like to spend time with – I’m
a fit-out created by local totally head over heels for them.”
designer Stéphane Ashpool And while Lindsey finds Paris “perpetually
in collaboration with Nike. inspiring”, she and her husband also enjoy
I don’t play but I love walking escaping the city for long weekends. “Last
by and catching a glimpse of weekend we were in Champagne,” Lindsey
players young and old. says. “The fact that we were away from all the
activity here actually made it easier to take a
Lindsey finds Paris step back and write what I needed to write.
“perpetually inspiring” I’m starting to reach that point where I like Lindsey’s blog and book go to show that
having getaways and going to the south of there is plenty more to Paris than its classic
France, or to Normandy is easy. I’m also really image and perhaps this refresh is part of
excited that as of July, Bordeaux will be only the reason why the writer continues to be
two hours away on the train.” captivated by the charms of the city.
Admitting that Paris now feels like home “I find it almost impossible to find a
more than anywhere else, Lindsey was place that matches the quality of life that
delighted to obtain French citizenship over a Paris offers,” she says. And while some are
year ago. “It was pretty drawn-out,” she says resistant to change, for Lindsey it can only
of the process, “and then one day an envelope be a good thing. “I’m pleased to see how
© JOANN PAI,; LINDSEY TRAMUTA
showed up announcing that I was French.” much Paris has evolved,” she says. “The
“But it was very much worth it; I know I’m city has embraced international influence
going to be spending my life here. I will be and is looking to the future. It would be
voting for the first time in the upcoming hard to leave that now. Who knows where
elections and I want to make sure that my I would be had I not come to France.”
voice is heard.” lostincheeseland.com

LIFESTYLE
ive sp
it
in
Pos
Watching
a game of cricket
on a quiet green is
not an image you usually
associate with France, but
the sport is steadily gaining
popularity. Adam Jacot de
Boinod meets the expats
who have taken their love
of cricket across the
Channel
I
t’s autumn in Provence – what not somebody who really enjoys the term
the French call ‘l’arrière-saison’. ‘expat’ but either way we all have a tag
The sky is clear and blue and the even if we feel we are incorrectly labelled,”
midday temperature is reassuringly he says. “But I am relatively lucky in that I
warm with the sun bright but not have become a ‘native’ to the area. I came
fierce. My team gathers as a bedraggled with a French girl over 25 years ago all
assembly of baggy trousers and baggage. the way from the Mendips, and am still
We are a classic English touring team – the married and have two boys who are French
type that’s been coming for years to play in rather than English.”
France against teams of expats embedded When Jonathan first arrived in 1991
in their local terroir. he thought that it would be useful to get
It’s under an hour’s drive from Nice to involved with some local sports groups
the ground at St-Vallier-de-Thiey where in order to try to make contacts, and as a
the Riviera Cricket Club is based – a club result he got involved in the cricket club
consisting mostly of expats, mainly from in its infancy. In the 1990s and 2000s the
the UK and other Anglophone countries. team introduced a junior section which
One member of the opposition, was eventually added to its organisation,
Jonathan Griffiths, a tree surgeon, was and over the years the club has brought
defensive about his expat status. “I am many families together.

STRONG CAMARADERIE in a bumpy field. Riviera CC rent
The camaraderie is infectious.
“What it brings to the expat
&5,&.(7,1*7(506 their field but can’t be granted
a pavilion or toilet facilities
community is a great fellowship 75$16/$7(',172)5(1&+ on-site. But the backdrop of the
with a wide mix of ages and mountains and the hang gliders
%2:/(' %5,6e%2/(
backgrounds. There’s a mixture makes up for it.
&$8*+7 &$37e
of different Anglophone 67803(' 3,48e Jonny Browne, a regular
countries (UK, Australia, New :,&.(7
81*8,&+(7 player with Riviera CC, has lived
Zealand, South Africa, India, 7,0('287 +2567(036 in the area for over 30 years as a
Pakistan, West Indies, etc),” says +,7:,&.(7
$872'(6758&7,21 writer and a painter. He reveals
Brian Ranger, the match umpire. +2:¶67+$7
28=$7 the history of cricket in the
Tony Bloom, a former 6,//<0,':,&.(7 0,/,(8'(/$)28/( area: “There was a cricket field
648$5(/(* $1*/('52,7(
teammate of mine in England, in late Victorian days in Nice
%$760$128781%$77(85(67e/,0,1e
now living in Valbonne in Alpes- 7+(&5($6(=21(6Ó5( on the Promenade des Anglais,
Maritimes for the last five years /(*%()25(:,&.(7-$0%('(9$17*8,&+(7 by the Anglican Church, but
and raising a child in the local 5(7,5('287 6257,('e),1,7,9( it went a while ago,” he says.
school system, reveals that the “And previously at Monaco they
good weather played a big role built a pitch in a village called
in his decision to relocate to the south of Fontvieille, but these have long gone.”
Facing page: The Riviera Cricket
France. “When you’ve got such lovely and Club players enjoy the long Jonny continues: “Since then, other
protracted summers and you love cricket Provençal summers clubs have emerged and vanished, such
as much as I do, there’s no point suffering Below: Jonny Browne is a as Antibes, staffed mainly by Brits on the
regular player for the club
from September onwards back in the UK,” boats. Monte Carlo CC used to be quite
Bottom: A team photo against
he says. the backdrop of the hills of a gig but it has diminished greatly. They
Players at the Riviera Cricket Club enjoy Provence used to play at Levens, near my home,
matches every weekend during the lengthy which was on the only grass wicket of any
summer against other local sides such of us down here, and in many ways it is
as Entrecasteaux and Monaco, as well as a big shame that ended.”
touring teams like mine. The standard of As well as expats who have moved
play varies from the keen to the hopeless, permanently to France, there are
from club to village level. People typically also team members who have second
play 30 overs a side, which is long enough homes in the area. A regular team
in the heat. The season has a break in member for the Entrecasteaux club is
August when temperatures are at their Eddie Bishop, a London barrister, who
hottest and many players are on holiday. has a home in the south. For Eddie,
As for the pitch, it usually consists of turning out for the Entrecasteaux team is
an all-weather artificial turf usually set a vital ingredient of his summers in France.
Keen to play?
If you are keen to play for a team
in France, the most informative
website is francecricket.com. Cricket
is becoming more popular; the
website now lists 68 clubs in all
across the country, with most teams
in areas where expat communities
are biggest – the north-east (34
clubs), the north-west (nine) and the
south-west (nine).
Riviera Cricket Club’s website
is rivieracricket.com and they are
keen to stress that all applicants
are welcome and that no
previous experience is necessary.
Neighbouring club, Entrecasteaux
CC’s website is entrecasteauxcc.eu.

LIFESTYLE
“What I love about it is the idea of fair

play and the strong team spirit”
JOINING THE CLUB spectators, their attitude to the game

But it’s not just expats that are playing is mixed; varying from a reaction of
From top: Players’ families come to support
cricket in France, despite the fact that indifference to intrigue. The vast majority their loved ones; half-time sustenance is
the rules can be difficult to explain. of players are expats, with little interest typically French with cheese and pâté;
Frenchman Charles-Eric Le Royer from the French, as Brian Ranger explains: instead of tea, players drink beer
absolutely loves the game. He is now “We have occasionally had French players
president of the Association de Cricket du (particularly when the junior section was
Nord-Ouest, and has played for eight years active) but there is not a lot of interest
for Cricket Club des Ormes in Brittany. shown by the local French community.”
“Cricket is certainly developing in Charles-Eric adds: “Those French
France but it is an English game and most people that do play cricket tend to be
of the players are English. I started out Anglophiles like me. And with so few
knowing nothing about it at all, and was people playing, it could never be anything
asked to come along and play because they but an amateur sport in this country. What
needed an extra man in the field. I haven’t I love about it is the idea of fair play and
looked back and I have been playing every the strong team spirit that I feel is absent
weekend for the last eight years. The rules from so many of the other mainstream Adam Jacot de Boinod worked on
can be baffling, and I still sometimes find it sports. I also like the fact that there are the first series of BBC series QI.
difficult to know the difference between a players still enjoying being out and playing He is the author of The Meaning
‘wide’ and a ‘no-ball’, but I’m more or less cricket into their 70s. You don’t see of Tingo and Other Extraordinary
there now,” says Charles-Eric. 70-year-old men playing football. Cricket is Words from around the World,
As for the French players and local a game for life.” published by Penguin Books.

DESTINATION
Work to live
A new survey has revealed the best places in France to live and
work. Catriona Burns shines the spotlight on the top three and
discovers why they offer the perfect work-life balance
I
f we had our way, life in France newspaper L’Express has revealed the
would consist of drinking wine, most desirable towns and cities in France
eating cheese and shopping at to both work and live in. In order to rank
the local market all day, every which areas were best for living, the survey
day. But unless you’ve reached took things such as the weather, transport
retirement, this round-the-clock bliss is systems, affordable housing and air
© NANTES TOURISME; BENKRUT / THINKSTOCK
often not feasible; many people who move quality into consideration. For work life,
to France have to continue working to the duration of the train journey to Paris,
fund their new lives. But, while our choice levels of unemployment and creation of
of where in France we’d like to move to jobs determined where in France offered
is heavily influenced by lifestyle factors, the best professional life. Combining the
we sometimes neglect to consider where results of both, the survey revealed where
in France we will be happiest working, in France offers the ideal work-life balance.
too. However, a new survey by French These are the top three.

1
Main: Situated on the Loire
to work or during your lunch hour, strolls
estuary, Nantes is ranked the best
city in France to live and work
NANTES in and around the city will be enlivened
Population (2016) 609,198 with quirky art installations that pop up
Bottom left: The mechanical
in parks, gardens and city streets. It can
elephant is a must-see
Nantes is a city of reinvention. sometimes seem that no space has been
Bottom right: Les Anneaux (rings)
Once France’s most important port and left unturned in the city’s urban renewal
is a modern-art installation on
then an industrial centre, the capital of project and even some of its old industrial
Quai des Antilles
the Loire-Atlantique department was warehouses have been rejuvenated to
known locally as une belle endormie, a house trendy cafés and artist studios.
‘sleeping beauty’. But following major While the city is a living, breathing urban
rejuvenation, the city has awoken with project, it is also home to classic culture,
a jolt; emerging, not as France’s prettiest including one of the country’s
town, but as one of its most culturally best symphony orchestras and a top
alive, with a reputation for being edgy and opera company in Théâtre Graslin,
playfully vibrant. perfect for an end-of-week night out.
To get the best view of Nantes you have Weekends off work can be spent strolling
to ascend a 12-metre-tall mechanical around the pedestrianised city centre and
elephant that sprays water, blows steam shopping along the Rue Crébillon and
and sounds his trumpet at pedestrians the neo-classical Passage Pommeraye
walking alongside him on the ground shopping arcade.
below. It is one of many mechanical Although it is outside of Brittany, Nantes
animals that can be found at Les Machines still holds onto some of its Breton past,
de l’Île de Nantes; a fantastical site situated mainly through plentiful servings of crêpes
on the three-mile-long urban playground and cider. You’ll also find a bit of Breton
that was once the docklands. magic on Quai Turenne where people
After the little ones have a spin on the still uphold the tradition of placing coins
funfair carousel, you can walk off the between bricks in the hopes of making
fun and frolics along the banks of the wishes come true.
River Loire to Musée Jules Verne. Here With big names such as Airbus coming
you can pour over first-edition books and to Nantes, as well as other smaller
hand-edited manuscripts of Nantes’ most companies, it’s no surprise that between
famous son, as well as interactive displays 6,000 and 9,000 people move here every
of his most colourful books including year, in what is becoming one of France’s
Around the World in Eighty Days. The fastest-growing cities. Its latest refresh
Musée d’Histoire Naturelle also hosts may have revived the city as a cultural
children-friendly and interesting exhibits. capital, but regardless of what direction
But in Nantes, you don’t really have to Nantes takes next, it will no doubt remain
enter a museum to enjoy the thrills of the one of France’s most popular places to live
city’s cultural offerings. Even on your way and work.
The top 10 places to live

and work in France
1 Nantes 6 Grenoble
2 Lyon 7 Lille
3 Rennes 8 Tours
4 Bordeaux 9 Dijon
5 Toulouse 10 Orléans
Best cities Best cities

for living for working
Angers Nantes
Limoges Bordeaux
Dijon Lille
Clermont-Ferrand Lyon

DESTINATION
2 LYON
Population (2016)
1,336,994
Lyon may be France’s third largest city

after Paris and Marseille, but it arguably
offers the same quality of life as many of
its smaller towns and villages.
Situated at the confluence of the
Saône and Rhône rivers, the capital
of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region
Top: Rooftop view of Lyon
is famous the world over for its food.
Left: Lyon’s contemporary
Boasting some 2,000 restaurants,
Confluence district is a multi-
many of them holding Michelin
million euro urban renewal
stars, Lyon comfortably lives up to its
project boasting housing
reputation as the gastronomic capital
and shops
of France. Yet despite its celebrated
Bottom: Église St-Georges
haute cuisine scene, it is the city’s
on the banks of the Saône
classic bouchons (bistros serving up
traditional, timeless dishes) that have
really earned Lyon its position as the
heartland of French cooking. It’s here in
these cosy, charming little eateries where
hearty dishes sit atop red-and-white
checked tablecloths that the locals come besides wining and dining, as you’ll find sugar warehouse where you can enjoy
together to eat and drink. in many of the city’s distinct little pockets. a cocktail on the rooftop bar. Work to
If your intention is to not only eat The city’s newest neighbourhood, the make the area more liveable is currently
but cook better when you move to Confluence area, where the two rivers underway and the entire project – which
France, you’ll have no excuse not to meet, is enjoying a new-found buzz. Once will include a residential and market
do so in Lyon as every one of the city’s an industrial district, a multi-million euro district – is due to be completed in 2020.
nine arrondissements has its own food project has transformed the area into a There is a feeling that while some parts
market. There is also the city centre trendsetting hot spot, populated with of Lyon will never change, other parts
Marché St-Antoine with over 100 vendors environmentally friendly, outlandish are constantly evolving, a dynamic that
and the famous Les Halles de Lyon Paul buildings, a shopping complex and a rock- make it an exciting place to live, says expat
Bocuse indoor market, where you can pick climbing centre. Sophia Marci Anderson.
up the very best produce for the week The area is also home to the state- “I love living in Lyon; it’s such a
ahead before sitting down to a long, lazy of-the-art metal and glass Musée des vibrant and dynamic city,” she enthuses.
Sunday brunch. Confluences that houses a scientific and “It’s big enough that there’s always
But there’s plenty more to do in Lyon anthropology collection and a converted something happening: new exhibitions,
new restaurants, new events, but it never
feels hectic – there’s still the French joie
de vivre. The city itself is beautiful, the
two rivers each have their own charm,
and the different arrondissements feel
GUILLAUDEAU DONATIENNE; LE GAL YANNICK; PIRIOU JACQUELINE / BRITTANY TOURISME
quite distinct. Being a business hub,

there’s also a substantial English-speaking
community,” she says.
© DREAMSTIME; FREDERIC PROCHASSON; TANYA SNARK / THINKSTOCK
Indeed, the city is known for being very

business friendly and as such, is a popular
place for expats who are considering
setting up a business in France. There is
also the added bonus that Lyon is an ideal
base to explore other European spoils. The
Alps are within easy reach and a 90-minute
drive will take you to the beaches of the
Mediterranean Sea.
“I love that we’re not too far from the
mountains,” says Sophia, who often goes
on hiking and camping trips just a short
distance away from her beloved Lyon.

tal,
Brittany’s capi
is a lively city
Rennes
3 RENNES
and to swap their recipe ideas with
customers. Paul and his son Olivier Renault
Population (2016) from Louvigné-de-Bais come to sell their
426,502 Coucou de Rennes chicken, and chefs from
all over come to buy Jean-Yves Bordier’s
With such a well-established Celtic classic and flavoured Breton butters.
culture, the region of Brittany is a If you want to make the most of your
home away from home for many British lunchtime break, slip off into one of the
Property expats in France. Capital of the region city’s green spaces such as the 18th-
prices
since it was incorporated into France in century Parc du Thabor. Here in the former
the 16th century, Rennes has a distinct abbey, you can find themed gardens from
Breton character and proudly celebrates French to English and botanical. In the
summer months, the garden hosts classical
LOIRE-
its Celtic heritage. Although much of the
Old Town was destroyed in a fire in 1720, concerts, musical theatre, poetry readings
ATLANTIQUE the ancient half-timbered houses that and on Wednesday afternoons there is
€205,000 survived still charm lovers of medieval

architecture today.
traditional Breton dancing.
There’s even bigger and better culture
Average house price
With a student population of over to be found in many of Rennes’ famous
€2,480 per m2 60,000, the Breton capital is a city for the festivals. In July Les Tombées de la Nuit
Average apartment price young at heart. But the 9-5 brigade are by festival attracts some 1,000 artists for its
no means left out of the lively scene, as street art festivities where, according to
the city has establishments where anyone the tourist office ‘everything and anything
RHÔNE and everyone can pop in for un verre. After goes’, and Les Trans Musicales event has
€286,300 a typical 35-hour working week, the most

popular place for workers to head to is Rue
two weeks of rock music in December.
And, even though it is compact, the
Average house price St-Michel to unwind. Lined with wall-to- city has a single-line métro system that
€2,820 per m2 wall bars and pubs, you’ll quickly find out runs from the north-west to the south-east
why it is known locally as ‘Rue de la Soif.’ of the city, with a 24-hour pass costing
Average apartment price
There are a total of 20 markets in €4 that is interchangeable with the bus.
Rennes, including Les Lices, the second As of July 2017, the city’s transport links
ILLE-ET-VILAINE largest in France. The market takes place will improve further with a new high-
€178,100 every Saturday morning, and it seems like

the whole of Rennes converges here. It is
speed train reducing the journey to Paris
to 1h25. To tie in with the train launch, a
Average house price as much a social occasion as it is a place to new project called EuroRennes is in the
€2,340 per m2 stock up on the essentials. Producers from works. Set to house offices, shops, cultural
Average apartment price all over the region come to sell everything facilities, houses and corporate companies,
from fresh fruit and vegetables to seafood, it will no doubt bring another business
exotic spices and homemade chocolate, boost for Brittany’s first city.
Les Lices market in Rennes takes place every Saturday morning Rennes has an efficient transport system

LIFESTYLE
Creature
comforts
They say you should never work with animals but these three expat
couples have made their move to France possible with a little help
from their four-legged friends, as Catherine Cooper finds out

n n
n) k'
' n!
W
e first moved to France in 1998, to 300 a week. I make more in the winter as I like
to Dordogne. We wanted a to be able to give myself some time off in the
change in lifestyle while the summer to avoid the heat in the lab!”
children were young enough Neil now helps out with the business too and
(aged five and three at the the couple go to at least two markets a week,
time). In the UK I was a stay-at-home mum and as well as seasonal events. “It’s definitely the
Neil was a farrier so it was easy enough to carry marketing side that I find the hardest,” Lisa says.
on doing the same jobs in France. “It’s difficult to find out exactly what events
“We moved to Ariège in 2004, attracted by its are happening and when. But the soaps are
unspoilt nature as well as the prospect of being becoming more and more popular and we do
closer to the mountains (we are keen skiers) and pretty well by word of mouth.”
other sports and activities for the boys. By now The soaps are perfumed with natural
Neil was working as a blacksmith as well as a essential oils from a supplier in the north of
farrier, which kept him busy but the cotisations France – the most popular scent is geranium
were crippling. rose. They are wrapped in pretty pieces of cotton
“I’ve always had goats since I was a child, and and customers who return the cotton receive a
with the boys growing up, I wanted some work discount on their next purchase.
of my own. I first started making soaps from “I love working from home and being able to
goat’s milk because my son Tristan has eczema stop and have a coffee when I want to,” says Lisa
and it was difficult to find products which didn’t before adding, “I love watching the goats grazing
irritate his skin. Then I started making them for in our fields, though they often decide that the
friends and family and they were always very neighbour’s grass is better than ours and it’s a
well received, so I thought I’d try and make a go mad dash to round them up! But that’s life with
of it as a business.” goats and I wouldn’t change it.”
The family moved to a house with five lovelaitsavons.fr
hectares for the goats and Neil put his business
on hold while he renovated the house, and Lisa
registered with the Chambre des Métiers as an
auto-entrepreneur (now micro-entrepreneur).
Before the soap could be sold publicly, Lisa had
to send her soap formula to a chartered chemist
Lisa Anslow, to be safety assessed and the formulas registered
47, runs Lovelait Savons with two different official organisations. She set
with her husband Neil, up a website (in both French and English) and
50, from their home booked slots at local markets.
in St-Michel, Ariège. “I started off with the three or four goats we
They have three sons already had, making around 24 soaps per week.
aged 23, 21 and 16. Today we’ve got 11 goats and I make around 200

LIFESTYLE

! n n
m n%
W
e had a holiday home in selected breeders – a male fetches from around
Deux-Sèvres from 2003 and €500 and a female from around €2,000.
we moved permanently from The couple also sell or swap fleeces, as well as
London to France in 2009. running workshops and visits to the farm. A
I was a business analyst and guided visit to the farm costs €5 per person,
Tony was an IT manager. We wanted to move while special arrangements are made for groups
for a change of lifestyle while our daughter of 10 or more.
Natasha was still young enough to pick up the “We work with the tourist office to offer
language easily. educational tours for both locals and tourists.
“We don’t have a farming background; I We tour the farm, talk about how alpacas live,
read about alpaca farming in a newspaper, and people can feed some of them from their hands,
the original idea came from there! We did a lot there are opportunities for cuddles and photos
more research and visited alpaca breeders in and in the summer, visitors can even help give
both the UK and France and, weird as it might them showers! We also offer workshops – if you
sound, it seemed like the best solution for add water to the fleece it can be moulded almost
making a living once we’d moved. like plasticine, or the kids can make collages
“So we looked for a suitable house – close gluing things like fleece, sequins and buttons to
to a village as we wanted to be part of a the outline of an alpaca.
community, but also with a decent amount “They’re brilliant animals – they all have
of land. We moved in July and had already different personalities and looks. We’ve now got
booked our first delivery of three alpacas for 59 and know all of them by name. Some like to
October, so there was plenty to do what with be cuddled, others are too timid. We’ve also got a
fencing the fields and getting things ready gîte and sometimes the guests like to take some
before they arrived. We registered as a farm of them for walks.”
with the MSA (Mutualité Sociale Agricole) after The couple feel they have integrated into
a few years once we had more alpacas than the community well and say they are simply
could be considered hobby farming. In 2010 known locally as ‘the alpaca people’. Kit, who
our first alpaca babies, called cria, were born, learned French at school, has improved her
and we also acquired a few more alpacas. We language sufficiently to do the day-to-day
now have 59 which is about the upper limit for admin and give tours of the farm in French,
our seven hectares.” while Tony admits, “I mainly speak alpaca!”
The couple now sell alpacas to other argentonalpacas.eu
Kit Blooman,
52, lives with her
husband Tony, 62 and
daughter Natasha,
15, in Le Breuil-sous-
Argenton, Deux-Sèvres.
MORE
ONLINE
Advice on running
a business in France
completefrance.com/
living-in-france

LIFESTYLE
) % ) '
$ %
W
e arrived in France in 2002 after Stays range from as little as eight days and
two years spent in Greece. We they’ve had their current longest resident for
both suffered from ill health three years. While some dogs are rehomed,
and we felt living in a warmer Leeanne says that they generally regard
climate with a more relaxed themselves as a hospice for dogs.
pace of life would do us good. Greece wasn’t “Of course it is upsetting that most of the
quite right for us so we tried France instead, dogs die. But, take the example of Tim who we
mainly because it was affordable and we could had recently, who arrived malnourished and
be closer to family. maltreated. He was only with us for two weeks
“When we left the UK we had three Golden but during that time he was clean and fed,
Retrievers, and shortly after arriving in France received veterinary care and was loved – doesn’t
we were down to our last one, so we visited every living being deserve that?”
some refuges to try to find her a companion. The dogs get Leeanne and Michael up at
We were horrified to find that in many instances, around 6:30am. After the dogs are fed and
there was no place for old dogs in them – they various medicines administered, the couple
were often put down before they even got there spend around three hours cleaning the house,
or were in very poor condition. So we took changing nappies on several dogs and dressing
one home, and then a little while later, took on sores. “Many are incontinent, some are just
another. Then we had a call from the original lazy,” says Leeanne, “so cleaning takes up a lot of
refuge asking if we could take another old boy. our time. Fortunately the entire house is tiled!”
Before we knew it we were getting calls from The afternoon is spent on admin and walking
Leeanne retirement homes and hospitals when people the dogs that are able, and there may also be
Whitley, came in with old dogs they couldn’t keep with visits to the vet. The couple work closely with
50, runs a twilight them, and mairies when old dogs were found a trusted vet and will euthanise an animal only
retirement home abandoned or their owners had died. when they feel they have no quality of life.
for dogs with her “By 2010 we had around 30 dogs and it The charity raises around €30,000 through
husband Michael, was becoming expensive to keep them. We simple fundraisers by their supporters and the
69, from their had a lot of supporters and wanted to keep money is spent on food and vets’ bills. They
home in St-Paul-la- it all above board so we set up as a charity, are also grateful to receive donations such
Roche, Dordogne. which was surprisingly easy to do. All you need as old bedding. “We’re lucky to have a lot of
to do is fill in a form at the préfecture and have supporters and volunteers,” Leanne says. “If I
an accountant.” have any regrets, it’s only that we didn’t start
The couple generally have around 30 dogs doing this sooner so we could help more dogs.”
at any one time, all of which live in their house. twilightchiens.com.

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INSIGHT
Utilities,
insurance
and taxes
GUIDE
Once you’ve moved in, you’ll need to sign up to utility providers as
well as make sure insurance and taxes are in place. Kate McNally
reveals how to get connected to all the essential services
A
lmost as soon as you take the first homeowner, spouse/partner and children, as You don’t need to register; the notaire will
sip of champagne to celebrate the well as an insurance for your children required notify the local authority when you buy a
successful purchase of your new by schools (assurance scolaire). So, all in all, it’s house and you will be liable for this tax from
home in France, you will need to worth getting. the following year (as of 1 January). In some
start thinking about putting your In contrast, tenants in rented property are cases, you may be asked by the house seller
house in order. Insurance, water, heating, required by law to take out home insurance to contribute to the current year’s tax. The
© UDRA/THINKSTOCK; HEIKE BRAUER | DREAMSTIME.COM; JUPITERIMAGES/THINKSTOCK JOEGOUGH/
telephone… there’s a lot to set in motion, in order to be able to cover any potential demand is sent either by post or by email,
and you will of course require plenty of damages to the property. usually towards the end of the year. You can
photocopies, and even more patience. ask to pay over three months, or set up a
Let’s take a look at the most important TAXES monthly payment in advance if you want to
things to put in place – the ones that make As a house owner, you will receive an annual avoid a hefty bill just before or after Christmas!
the difference between a house and a home. demand to pay taxe foncière, effectively similar Next up is the taxe d’habitation, paid by the
to the old UK system of paying house rates. person or persons living in the house. This
THE ESSENTIALS tax is calculated according to the size of the
INSURANCE house, amenities, household revenues and the
For homeowners in France, it’s not obligatory number of children; it also includes a statutory
to have house insurance unless you live audio-visual fee. Monies collected are used
MORE
DREAMSTIME; HUMONIA/THINKSTOCK
in a co-owned property. However, it is to fund local services such as schools, social

advisable if you want to be covered for
any potential damage. There are several
ONLINE services and sports facilities – in this way it is
similar to the UK’s council tax.
More on setting up
insurance companies offering assurance utilities in France Again, the bill is sent direct by post or email
habitation, and in most cases it also includes completefrance.com/ in the autumn. There is a 10% increase for late
a civil responsibility insurance (assurance living-in-france payment of both these taxes, so keep an eye
de responsabilité civile) that covers the on the ‘pay by’ date.

THE NECESSARY UTILITIES
ELECTRICITY
In general, it doesn’t get much more critical
than electricity. Heating, charging mobile
devices, making a cup of tea – so many of
life’s rudimentary necessities require an
electric current.
As usual, it pays to do your homework
on the providers to see which offer the best
price for your needs. The French electricity
market was opened up to competition in 2007
(previously national company EDF held the
monopoly), and there are currently nine other
companies to choose from. EDF is now a listed
company – though the French state remains
the primary shareholder – and continues to
hold the lion’s share of customers, with around
90% sticking with the devil they know to
date. Their decision could be down to loyalty,
laziness or conservatism, because in fact many
of the newcomers undercut both EDF’s state-
regulated tariffs and its optional prices. (EDF is
the only company allowed to offer a regulated
fixed price, tarif réglementé.) Many of the
other providers use the regulated tariff as a
benchmark for changes to their own variable
rate, but also to highlight the difference in
their own prices, which they are free to set.
Although EDF is keeping competitors at bay
for the moment, the tide is definitely turning.
Engie (formerly known as state gas supplier
GDF Suez) has made significant inroads, GAS
no doubt managing to woo a number of It’s pretty much the same situation for gas. The
existing gas customers over to a total energy open market is now well established and you
package. (It’s basically tit for tat, as EDF has should shop around for the best deal.
similarly ventured into the gas side of the Engie, together with fellow historic gas
energy market.) Similarly, Direct Énergie, supplier ELD (a collection of local gas
has infiltrated the open French energy providers), has lost market share to the new
market, both in electricity and gas, seducing or ‘alternative’ providers, as they are called in
customers with cheaper prices, attractive France, led by Direct Énergie and Italian gas
contract terms, plus discounts for introducing giant Eni.
friends to their service. Prices include a cost for network
There are also companies positioning maintenance (this tariff is set by the
themselves in the green energy camp – government) and a cost for the gas consumed
notably Planète Oui, Enercoop and énergem (set by the provider). Only Engie is authorised
– also either offering cheaper prices or similar to offer the state-regulated tariff; all other
prices but with a commitment to investment providers set their own prices.
in renewable energies. These players are Customers for both gas and electricity can
popular with ecologists and others concerned opt for a fixed price or variable price (the latter
with protecting the environment. changes in line with the tarif reglémenté).
Don’t worry too much if you choose the It is worth noting that both (i.e. also the
wrong provider and discover you could have a fixed price) are subject to changes in the tax
better deal elsewhere, as you can change from applied. Again, customers are free to switch
one provider to another, without penalty, at providers at any time, even if they have a
any time. fixed contract in place.

INSIGHT
WATER
The mairie, or a local collective, is responsible
for both fresh water supply and sanitisation
services in each community, and either they
finance and manage this themselves or, as is
more often the case, they contract it out to
the private sector. Either way, you, as the end
user, don’t have a choice of supplier.
So, when you move into your house, ask
at the mairie who is responsible for the water
supply, and set up a contract in your name
either with the mairie or their chosen private
water supplier. Veolia (the former national
water supplier), SUEZ, Saur and SOGEDO are
the four largest water providers in France.
The local municipality decides the price
of water in your community, even if the
service is contracted out. In this case, some
municipalities simply approve the tariffs
suggested by the providers, while others
bargain effectively for lower prices. Bills are
divided into three costs – water distribution,
sanitisation services and taxes. In general,
water supply is metered, with the average
annual bill totting up to around €460 for a The main players…
consumption of 120m3 (according to the Electricity suppliers:
Institut National de la Consommation). EDF, Energies du Santerre,
If you’ve bought a house in a very rural area, Proxelia, Planète Oui, Alterna,
you may not be connected to the commune’s Lampiris, Engie, énergem, TELEPHONE
water network. In this case, make a request Enercoop, Direct Énergie Orange (formerly France Télécom) owns the
to be connected as France is committed to national telephone grid and dominates the
Gas providers:
hooking up the rural communities. That said, fixed-line telephone market in France. The
Engie, EDF, Eni, Direct Énergie,
it’s a good idea to check the situation before company announced plans early last year to
Enercop, Lampiris, Proxelia,
purchase, because the authorities are also phase out the original fixed-line network over
Antargaz
keen to ensure all homes have a sewage the next 10 years, in similar fashion to the
system that meets environmental standards, Water suppliers: phasing out of analogue television. So, around
and the cost of modernising your septic tank, Veolia, Suez, Saur, SOGEDO a third of fixed-line users – those who don’t
should it insist, could set you back a few access the line via a Livebox – will have to
Telephone operators:
thousand euros. move across to (and subscribe to) an internet-
Orange, SFR, Bouygues, Free
based telephone service.
Although Orange is the main player, it has
three strong competitors who similarly offer
customers the pick of fixed, mobile, internet
and TV packages. Free has made significant
in-roads, with an aggressive cut-price
marketing strategy. SFR is the second largest
operator in France, with Bouygues Telecom
completing the line-up.
To decide which operator is best for you,
you’ll need to go online to compare their
various packages (forfaits). Basically it works
the same way as in the UK. Work out your
usage (or desired usage) for each of the
services included and choose a package.
While you may be locked into a contract for
a fixed period preventing you from switching
operators before the contract expires, you
can normally change from one package to
another when you like. So keep an eye on
your bills to be sure there isn’t a different
option better suited to your needs.

INSIGHT
Vocabulary: utilities,
GUIDE insurance and taxes If you’re buying a house in France, there’s a lot to put in order, be it
insurance, water or electricity. Peter Stewart shares the key vocabulary
Émilie et Christophe sont en Sandrine et Théo viennent

train d’acheter une maison et ils de recevoir une facture
parlent de ce qu’ils doivent d’électricité élevée et
prendre en considération. souhaitent changer de
Christophe: Qu’est-ce que tu lis? fournisseur.
Émilie: Juste quelques Sandrine: La facture
dépliants de différentes d’électricité vient d’arriver et
entreprises qui veulent nous c’est presque le double de ce
vendre une assurance qu’on payait à cette époque
d’habitation. de l’année dernière!
Christophe: D’accord. Une Théo: Laisse-moi voir un
chose est sûre: on a besoin peu... Oui, tu as raison. Je
d’assurance! On ne sait jamais n’arrive pas à y croire!
ce qui pourrait arriver… Sandrine: Je pense qu’il est
Émilie: Oui, c’est vrai. temps de changer de
Christophe: Est-ce-qu’il y a une fournisseur.
assurance responsabilité Théo: Je suis tout à fait
civile? Michel et Marie achetent pour Marie: D’accord. Et qu’est qu’on d’accord.
Émilie: Oui, tiens. la première fois et parlent des a, donc, à payer? Sandrine: J’ai trouvé bon
Christophe: Ah très bien. Nous impôts qu’ils devront payer. Michel: Alors, il y a la taxe nombre d’autres compagnies
avons certainement besoin Marie: Toutes ces discussions d’habitation, qui est calculée en ligne offrant des tarifs
d’une assurance responsabilité d’impôts me font tourner la en fonction de la taille de notre moins chers. Planète Oui a
civile. Cela procurerait une tête. Est-ce-que tu peux me maison, de nos revenus et de une offre spéciale. C’est une
couverture complète, c’est-à- l’expliquer? nos personnes à charge. Les entreprise d’énergie verte et
dire pour nous deux ainsi que Michel: Bien sûr, ma chérie. fonds amassés vont aux celle-ci offre un taux qui est
pour la maison. Alors, le notaire va bientôt services locaux tels que les 35% moins cher! Et si on les
Émilie: Oui, absolument. Et les informer les autorités de écoles, les services sociaux et choisit comme notre
enfants? l’achat de la maison. Ensuite, les installations sportives. fournisseur d’énergie avant
Christophe: Ah oui! Tu m’as ils nous enverront une Marie: Je vois. Et qu’est-ce qui la fin de ce mois, on nous
rappelé que, quelle que soit la demande annuelle appellée se passe si, pour une raison offrira une reduction de
police que nous choisissons, une taxe foncière. La bonne quelconque, on ne peut pas €100 de notre prochaine
elle doit inclure l’assurance nouvelle c’est que nous payer à temps? facture énergétique.
scolaire aussi, en cas n’avons pas à tout payer en Michel: Ma chérie, il faut Théo: Quelle belle offre!
d’accidents à l’école! un seul coup – on peut étaler absolument payer à temps! Qu’est-ce que tu en penses?
nos paiements sur trois mois Sinon, on sera obligé de payer Sandrine: Je pense qu’il
si on veut. 10% de plus! faudrait l’accepter!
Vocabulaire
• police [d’assurance] • étaler les paiements sur 3 mois • payer à temps
insurance policy to spread the payments over pay on time
• assurance scolaire three months • changer de fournisseur
• assurance d’habitation
home insurance school insurance • taxe d’habitation to change supplier
• taxe foncière council tax • entreprise d’énergie verte
• assurance responsabilité civile
civil responsibility insurance property tax • personnes à charge green energy company
dependants

vocab
Antoine se rend à la mairie pour

parler de l’approvisionnement
en eau pour sa maison.
Antoine: J’aimerais parler à
quelqu’un au sujet de
l’approvisionnement en eau de
ma maison.
Receptioniste: Oui, pas de
problème. M. Rousseau sera
avec vous dans un instant.
M. Rousseau: Bonjour. Je
comprends que vous venez
d’acheter une maison dans le
village et vous voulez y mettre
en place un nouvel
approvisionnement en eau?
Antoine: Oui, tout à fait.
M. Rousseau: Alors, on doit
vous créer un contrat. Tout
d’abord, vous devrez remplir
ce formulaire.
Antoine: Pas de problème.
Quelle entreprise fournit l’eau
dans ce village?
M. Rousseau: L’eau est fournie
par Sogedo, qui offre des tarifs
très favorables. On l’a trouvé
toujours très fiable et ses tarifs
sont très compétitifs. Je ne sais Mathieu et Noémie sont à la minutes par mois?
pas si vous le savez, mais vos recherche en ligne pour les Mathieu: Le prix c’est €120 par
factures d’eau sont divisées en meilleures offres de téléphone mois.
trois coûts: la distribution et Internet. Noémie: Est-ce que cela inclut
d’eau, les services Mathieu: Je regarde sur orange. internet aussi?
d’assainissement et les impôts. fr et il semble qu’ils ont Mathieu: Non. C’est un forfait
Et bien sûr, beaucoup d’offres pour les uniquement pour recevoir des
l’approvisionnement en eau est couples. Je suppose que nous appels.
mesurée, donc je vous conseille devrions calculer notre usage Noémie: Ça ne va pas! Laisse-
de ne pas gaspiller l’eau. du téléphone avant de choisir moi regarder un peu sur
Antoine: Je devrai veiller à ne un forfait. Bouygues Telecom ...
pas laisser couler l’eau lorsque Noémie: Oui. Quand je regarde Mathieu: D’accord. Tu-as trouvé
je me brosse les dents... [rires] nos factures passées, je quelque chose d’intéressant?
Combien de temps faudra-t-il constate que j’utilise en Noémie: Ils offrent un forfait
pour mettre tout en place? moyenne 300 minutes d’appels appels illimités et internet
M. Rousseau: Il faudra environ
24 heures pour que le contrat
par mois (j’appelle ma mère et
deux ou trois amis qui habitent
pour €68 par mois. On a le
contrat pour 6 mois, et puis on Test your
soit approuvé et votre
approvisionnement en eau
sur Paris), et toi tu utilises 600
minutes pour ton travail. Alors,
peut changer. Qu’est-ce que
t’en penses? French
devrait commencer qu’est-ce qu’il y a pour un Mathieu: C’est génial! On prend
immédiatement. couple qui utilise environ 900 ça alors.
Connaissez-vous
l’équivalent anglais
©JOHN LUND/HEATHER HRYCIW; PURESTOCK/THINKSTOCK
de ces termes?
• fournisseur d’énergie • services • usage du téléphone Un assuré

energy provider d’assainissement phone usage Une demande
• approvisionnement en eau / sanitation services • forfait Une prime d’assurance
distribution d’eau • impôts package/contract Un dégrèvement d’impôt
water supply taxes • forfait appels illimités et internet
• remplir un formulaire • gaspiller l‘eau unlimited calls and internet
to fill in a form to waste water package/contract Check your answers on page 85

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LANGUAGE
Expand your vocabulary, discover the latest language-learning aids
and have fun with our favourite puzzles
PRACTICAL FRENCH
The Institut Français in London is now offering
‘Practical French’ courses aimed at all levels
of language learners. There are three courses:
beginner, elementary and intermediate to
cater for different levels of ability. Topics cover
real-life situations in France, from ordering
a meal to visiting the doctor. The 15-hour
course is usually spread over a week with
lessons taking place every morning from
9.30am to 12.30pm. The cost of the course is
£180 and class numbers do not exceed 14.
institut-francais.org.uk
Faux
Get the vocab: pot
As well as meaning drink and also a drinks party, pot also has the same meaning as it
does in English (make sure you do not pronounce the ‘t’). It is used in many French
expressions: un coup de pot means a stroke of luck; être sourd comme un pot means
amis
to be deaf as a post; and tourner autour du pot means to beat around the bush.
When I lived in Brittany I was once in the

hairdressers in St-Caradec (near Loudéac)
COOK IT UP telling a naughty joke. I meant to say
Fancy a language course with a twist? matelas [mattress], but said matelot
Langue Onze language school in Toulouse [sailor] by mistake and people laughed
offers a range of courses including even more! The owner, Nadine, still
‘French and Cooking’ courses and ‘French remembers it...
and Oenology’ courses. These two-
week courses offer 23 general French Glenys Alice Ellis via Facebook
lessons with a workshop per week and
are available all year round, except If you have a handy tip for learning French,
August. During the French and Cooking please let us know by emailing editorial@
course, students have the opportunity livingfrance.com or contact us on:
ILLUSTRATION © RITA EVANS
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vocabulary during the cookery workshops available on demand).
livingfrancemagazine
held in small groups with a French chef. langueonze.com

LANGUAGE
Five-minute French
Test your language skills and improve your vocabulary with these fun French games
LES MOTS CACHÉS Le mot commun

Work out the word that links these groups
If the clue is in French, find the English equivalent
together, plus their English translation
and vice versa. Theme: utilities
S H O S E R V I C E S N Y Z
Example. 1.
P U V B R Q E I S E L T D S coup de ~~~~ l’âge d’~~~~
A L C N N H F L A V Y S P K dame de ~~~~ une mine d’~~~~
C C J E M C G F A C T U R E un ~~~~ de pierre un coeur en ~~~~
K A U T S K W T V N V X J X mal au ~~~~ ~~~~ blanc
A G Q W O H N D E W S U L R à ~~~~ ouvert
G X D O L K O M X D J K Z E FR _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
E T P R I C E T C S V R S U FR _FRHXU
___________ EN _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
S P U K N G K T Y U F J B O EN KHDUW
____________
R I Y J A U P E M A H I N W
L S I N S U R A N C E Q T N 2. 3.
E K E X V X J Z R H K O D E prendre un ~~~~ à pas de ~~~~
C M Z F O U R N I S S E U R un ~~~~ de fleurs une faim de ~~~~
A W O N R E G F S Y C N H M à plein ~~~~ un ~~~~ de mer
tourner autour du ~~~~ un froid de ~~~~
assurance utilities propriétaire
amenities tarif bill FR _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ FR _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
forfaits supplier réseau EN _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ EN _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
WHERE AM I?
Je suis un site naturel dans les
Hautes-Pyrénées classé au
Patrimoine Mondial de
l’UNESCO.
______-__
-________
Je suis un canal dans le nord
de la Bourgogne qui suit le court
de l’Yonne.
The perfect match Une gazinière

Une chaudière _ _ _ _ _- _ _ -
Match the picture to the correct word Un tuyau _________

Unscramble the letters to find Tongue twisters (les virelangues)
four French bakery items
1 TISACRONS
2 HORCEBI
3 TUHETOQECUS
4 NIPA UXA NISISAR
Ces six chauds chocolats-ci sont-ils aussi chauds
quand ces six chocolats-là font leur show?
Crossword
Across Down
1 soap (5) 2 August (4)
4 in order to (4,2) 3 opening (9)
8 “outside (of)” - “… (de)” (4) 5 French (fem.) (9)
10 to follow (6) 6 black (plural) (5)
12 TV or radio host/ 7 dumbstruck,
presenter (fem.) (10) flabbergasted (5)
14 “emergency service” – 8 “biological clock” -
“service des …” (8) “... biologique” (7)
15 to insulate, to isolate (6) 9 rich (5)
16 disappointed (4) 11 era, age, epoch (3)
18 “we will go” - “nous ...” (5) 13 to empty (5)
20 she (4) 17 yellow (5)
22 years (3) 19 health (5)
23 network (6) 21 linked (3)
25 east (3) 24 summer (3)
27 to snow (6) 26 thirtieth (9)
30 “she laughs” - “elle ...” (3) 28 unnoticed (fem) (9)
31 already (4) 29 Russian (5)
33 froth, foam (5) 32 bee, honeybee (7)
34 “in my opinion” - “a mon ...” (4) 36 boredom, worries (5)
35 serene, calm (6) 37 our (5)
38 actresses (8) 38 authorised,
41 England (10) accredited (5)
42 “OK” or “I agree” - “d’...” (6) 39 “she will go” - “elle ...” (3)
43 quick, quickly (4) 40 ready (4)
44 to spell (6)
45 teeth (5)
WIN! ato12-month subscription To enter our prize crossword competition, complete the grid
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Put your French to the test and complete this month’s crossword
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Living France. The closing date for entries is 17 April 2017. Address
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Across: 1 Foi, 3 Falaise, 6 Corps, 9 Atout, 10 Début, 11 Foule, 15 Vent, 16 Vaincre, 17 Gâté, 18 Citron,
Email
19 Religieuse, 20 Enfer, 22 Tribu, 24 Jouet, 29 À l’étranger, 31 Invité, 32 Mère, 33 Imprévu, 34 Rêve,
CROSSWORD BY JAN TODD
36 Saisi, 37 Ainsi, 38 Belle, 39 Otage, 40 Lorsque, 41 Mer.

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April 2017 Living 85
France 63
À LA MAISON
Perfect
combination
Michèle and Rob McLusky bought a 17th-century maison de maître in
south-west France, transforming it into a comfortable home combining
French and English style, as Stephanie Sheldrake discovers

Left: A raspberry-
coloured chaise
longue
complements the
muted turquoise
blues of the salon
Right: The elegant

maison de maître
looks out over the
property’s
expansive gardens
F
rom shelves full of fine There has been a house on the site of
china and glassware to Domaine de Sengresse for 1,000 years and
beautiful floral paintings gradually over time it evolved into what
adorning the walls, Michèle and is considered a 17th-century maison de
Rob McLusky’s home and B&B in maître. “The ground floor is the oldest
Landes, Domaine de Sengresse, has been part of the house where some of the
described by some of the guests who stay walls are made of large pebbles (galets),
there as a “petit musée”. But the couple and gradually more floors were added
are keen for guests to feel comfortable culminating in raising the roof in 1910,
and relaxed in their home in south-west when they had lots of children and needed
France. “There’s just so much to look at,” more bedrooms,” explains Michèle. What
says Michèle, “but our guests feel relaxed was once a massive estate is now the main
here – they don’t feel worried that they house, the ‘little house’, the barn and six
can’t sit on a chair, and they don’t have to hectares of land.
take their boots off when they come in. “It was a coup de foudre, not so much
It’s important that the house is lived in.” for the main house, though I knew that
The couple bought the 17th-century I could do something with it. It was
maison de maître near Dax in south-west the little house that I really fell in love
France, back in July 2005, having owned with, and the enormous barn, which is
a holiday home in Brittany for nearly 30 absolutely incredible.”
years. “Rob wanted to retire to a warmer Having signed the initial papers, the
clime; he feels the cold and hated the couple put their house, near Taunton, on
dark days of winter in the UK,” says the market, but it took over 12 months to
Michèle. “Our daughter, Sasha, was at find the right buyer. “So we finally bought
that time working in New Zealand in the this property in July 2005 and then moved
hotel/wine business and decided that a here in January 2006 when we had sold
small hotel in the UK or France with the our house in England.”
family paintings would be fun for all of Michèle and Rob used a reputable firm
us – she knew that an ordinary retirement of removers for the move, which took
was not for us!” two weeks to pack and unload the two
Michèle found Domaine de Sengresse pantechnicons and their trailers. “The
during a short break in Biarritz in removal men said that they had never had
September 2004 and immediately knew so much china to pack!” laughs Michèle,
it was the right property. who let the removers pack the delicate
“As we turned into the bottom of the items such as china, paintings and her
drive, I knew this was the sort of house I mother’s collection of paperweights.
was looking for. There was a lot of work “It’s worth it because you are covered
to do – I love gutting a house – and there for insurance, and they know what they
was a park and lots of woodland.” are doing.”

À LA MAISON
Restoration
Both the main house and the little house the mairie was flexible with changes we
needed to be renovated, a project that took wanted to make because they knew the
nearly two years to complete. workers we were using were responsible
“We camped in the main house for and knew French building regulations,”
the first nine months while we turned she says.
the little house into an apartment for us The couple installed seven new
– somewhere we would be able to have bathrooms in the main house, and two
some privacy when things got busy – and more in the little one. “We found an AGA
a ground-floor bedroom suitable for future in Auch, which was and is a much-needed
visitors with a disability. As it turned out, and loved part of our kitchen. The 12m
we now let the apartment and we live in by 6m swimming pool was also a job for
the main house,” explains Michèle. professionals and was the first major job to
Work then started on the main house, be started, as I wanted to make sure I had a
but a surprise was around the corner. pool for the summer.”
Michèle and Rob’s daughter Sasha Michèle and Rob found that the work
announced that she was engaged and not only took longer, but also cost more
wanted to get married in France. With a than they were expecting. “There was
These pages, clockwise from top: The
deadline looming, the couple pushed the always this ‘mañana’ approach – the library, along with most of the rooms,
renovation work along, and managed to builders were slower than we wanted and display Michèle’s mother’s paintings; a
complete it in time for the big day and the also they were not used to renovation collection of Michèle’s antique pieces; the
‘blue’ bedroom; a pretty piece of furniture
arrival of 150 guests. work,” says Michèle.
believed to be a writing desk dating from
The couple did most of the interior Having spent a lot of time in their Napoléon III; the elegant grey bedroom
painting themselves, as well as other Brittany “bolt-hole” through the years, the and its en-suite bathroom
smaller tasks, but used professional local couple spoke good French, which helped
workmen to carry out the larger jobs such them liaise with tradespeople. Despite
as putting in the new wiring, plumbing this, Michèle needed a good dictionary
and insulation. to help with the specialist terms. “I can
“We used all local people because wholeheartedly recommend a dictionary
I think that’s really important; all the we used: A Concise History of House-
money you have spent has gone into local building Terms published by Hadley Pager
pockets. It also opens doors. For example, – it was a godsend.”
VARIOUS PHOTOS ON ALL PAGES © STEPHEN CLÉMENT

A bit of both
When it comes to décor and furnishings, candlelight, so now for birthdays
Michèle explains that she trusts her and special occasions we can have a
instincts. “It just comes together,” she candlelit supper.”
says. “The French would say the house One tip that Michèle recommends is
is very English in style, but when I was mixing more expensive items with those
in England, people always said I had a that are more affordable. “You might
French style. So I think my style is a bit of have one thing that really makes your
both really. It’s a homemaker’s touch – I room and you’ve spent your money on
enjoy making it cosy and comfortable. that, but it allows you to use other less
“We had great fun going to salons expensive items.”
d’antiquaires and brocantes buying Michèle also thinks it’s worth having
garden furniture, light fittings, carpets good-quality curtains: “Having well-made
and armoires – and there was always curtains will set off your room. Though I
an excuse to add to my china and glass can make curtains, I usually pay someone
collection!” says Michèle. to do it,” she says.
“We found a really good brocante Michèle and Rob have run the B&B
at Soumoulou near Pau. There’s also a business for the last nine years, and have
marvellous area of antique shops and gained the top Gîtes de France rating of
markets in Bordeaux.” 5 épis. Their daughter Sasha stays for six
There’s a lovely element of faith and weeks in the summer to help during the
positivity in Michèle’s approach: “I don’t busy period. For the rest of the year, the
research – it just happens; I believe I’m couple manage with help from a gardener
going to find the right piece.” and their much-loved femme de ménage.
One such example of this is the “She really is our ‘treasure’ or perle as we
candelabrum which hangs above the say in French.”
dining room table. “I was in the abbey Part of the appeal is the friendly
church at St-Sever and I saw an amazing welcome and comfortable stay that guests
light and I thought, ‘I’d love one of those.’ enjoy at Domaine de Sengresse. “The
Then two or three days later, we were at house isn’t divided into a ‘B&B side’ and
Soumoulou and I found a smaller version ‘our side’. When guests come, they like
of it, which was perfect for hanging staying in our house. One of the bedrooms
over the dining room table. We took on the top floor is ours – we have no locks
out its electric lights and returned it to on the bedroom doors.”

À LA MAISON
This page, from top left:

A grand piano takes pride of
place in the spacious entrance
hall; Rob enjoys cutting the
grass in the three hectares of
park and gardens that surround
the property; the candelabrum
overhanging the dining table
was inspired by a light fitting
Michèle had seen in the abbey
church in nearby St-Sever;
Michèle was honoured to
become a member of the
Collège Culinaire de France
Culinary honour
Michèle loves to cook, and her excellence The couple offer a table d’hôte
in the kitchen was recognised recently service for guests who book in advance,
when she was invited to be a member of but despite being vegetarian herself,
the Collège Culinaire de France, following Michèle manages to cook white meat
a visit by well-known food critic, Périco and fish with the help of her husband.
Légasse, who wrote an excellent review in “One of my fortes is pastry; I love making
French magazine Marianne. “It was quite puff pastry.”
an honour for me considering I am a third- Having transformed this historic
generation vegetarian,” says Michèle. property into a charming retreat where
“The locals are now used to my not guests can enjoy a warm welcome, fine
eating meat or fish, but at first they food and beautiful parkland, Michèle and
thought I would not be strong enough Rob have ensured that the latest chapter
to keep going – it was especially hard for in Domaine de Sengresse’s history is
them to understand in this land of foie gras undoubtedly one of its best yet.
and magret de canard!” sengresse.com

À LA MAISON
Flavours of France
PISSALADIÈRE
PISSALADIÈRE: Ingredients
Serves 4-6
FOR THE TOPPING: FOR THE DOUGH:
• about 7 tbsp olive oil • 1 sachet (7g/1½ tsp) dried yeast
• 4 large onions (800g/13⁄4lb), thinly sliced • a pinch of sugar
• 1 tbsp thyme leaves, stripped from their stalks • 150ml (2/3 cup) tepid water
• about 24 (not too large) anchovy fillets in oil, drained • 250g (2 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour
• about 18 whole pitted black olives • 2 pinches of salt
• freshly ground black pepper • 1 tbsp olive oil
PISSALADIÈRE: Method
“I cook the onions without any salt, as I love the contrast of almost sweet onions and a sudden rush of salty anchovy and olive.
This is also very good with some crushed tomato (or slices) added to the base before the anchovies and olives (which should
be top quality). If your anchovy fillets are large, then halve the number and slice each in half lengthways.” Tessa Kiros
1. In a wide bowl, dissolve the yeast and 4. Drizzle one tablespoon of olive oil into a 7. Leave to rise for 30 minutes or so while
sugar in the water, then whisk in a handful shallow baking sheet, about 33 x 28cm (13 x you heat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6.
of the flour. Cover with a cloth and leave for 11in), and spread it with your hands to cover
30 minutes or so until it froths up. the base. Gently knead the dough down in 8. Bake for about 30 minutes, until the base
the bowl, then stretch it out into a rough is cooked all over (check the middle) and
2. Add the rest of the flour, the salt and olive rectangle and transfer to the baking sheet. the top is golden here and there with a
oil. Transfer the dough to the work surface Using both palms, ease the dough towards slight charring in places, taking care not to
and knead well. Scatter a little flour into the the corners of the tray. overcook it as it will dry out. Cut into pieces
bottom of the bowl and return the dough to and eat while still warm.
it. Make a slash on the top of the dough and 5. Spread the sautéed onions evenly over
cover the bowl with a clean cloth. Leave for the dough, almost to the edges, pressing Recipe taken
1½ hours, or until doubled in size. them into the dough so they adhere a little. from Provence to
Pondicherry by Tessa
3. For the topping, heat four tablespoons 6. Arrange the anchovies in a criss-cross Kiros, photography
of olive oil in a large frying pan over a pattern and place an olive in the centre by Manos
low-medium heat. Add the onions and of each diamond. Drizzle a couple of Chatzikonstantis,
thyme leaves and sauté gently for about 20 tablespoons more oil evenly over top and Quadrille Publishing,
minutes to soften. Remove from the heat. give a good grinding of pepper. £25, hardback.
ON THE MENU NEXT MONTH... PORK WITH VICHY CARROTS
What to drink…
This month, Master of Wine Richard Hemming examines the Pinot Noir grape variety
Searching for great Pinot Noir can sometimes feel like hunting There are some outposts of Pinot Noir elsewhere in the country,
the Snark – an ultimately futile exercise. The trouble is that the however. In Sancerre, they make a little red and rosé from the
variety is very tricky to grow. It has a thin skin making it prone variety, though it is rarely great value for money. Alsace produces
to disease, yields are usually very low, and it requires a long some very light examples that can achieve greatness, while the
cool season to ripen properly. Champagne region grows loads of Pinot Noir as part of the blend for
Thankfully, the Burgundy region of France is ideally suited its famous fizz.
to provide the right conditions – although the quality of Stylistically, Pinot Noir has several distinguishing features. It tends
vintages can vary dramatically. At its best, red burgundy can to be translucent ruby or garnet in colour, with light body, bright
be truly sublime, but is usually in high demand and short acidity and very soft tannin – it’s pretty much the polar opposite of
supply. That results in some eye-wateringly high prices, with something like Cabernet Sauvignon. In terms of flavour, expect red
the top examples reaching hundreds if not thousands of fruits such as cherry, cranberry, strawberry, often accompanied by
pounds per bottle. green herby notes and sometimes a hint of truffle oil.
Cave St-Verny, Pinot Noir 2014 IGP Puy- Domaine de Cabrials Pinot Noir Maison Roche de Bellene, Vieilles Vignes
de-Dôme (£9.95 leaandsandeman.co.uk, 2015 IGP Pays d’Oc Pinot Noir 2014 Bourgogne
southdownscellars.co.uk) (£10 ewwines.co.uk) (£16.99 laithwaites.co.uk, £17.50 oddbins.com)
This Pinot Noir is one of the best-kept The warm Languedoc region is not the Classic red burgundy doesn’t come cheap –
secrets in the whole world of wine. most obvious origin for quality but it is totally worth the premium for a
It displays all the characteristics that Pinot Noir, which generally prefers good one. Maison Roche de Bellene is
make the variety so popular – pale cooler climates. This example a very reliable name in the region, and
ruby colour, ripe strawberry fruit from Domaine de Cabrials their bourgogne rouge comes from vines
with a complementary herbal scent, certainly has a bit more body that are at least 50 years old. The theory
fresh acidity and soft tannin – with a than most classic French goes that older vines produce more
degree of purity and concentration Pinot Noirs, but it retains the concentrated and complex wines – and
that is rarely found for below £10 textbook red fruit, light tannin its enchanting raspberry fruit with hints
per bottle. A must-try! and crisp finish of the variety. of menthol and herbs certainly delivers.

À LA MAISON
In the garden
Here comes
the sun
Spring is on its way and Sue
Bradley is taking inspiration
from the sunflower fields of
southern France
F
ields of sunflowers are a sure
sign of summer in the south
of France; an eye-catching
sea of yellow captured in
countless photographs.
This member of the Asteraceae, or
daisy, family is native to the Americas
and arrived in Europe during the 16th
century, although it wasn’t until the
1970s that farmers in warmer regions
such as Provence started growing it as a
crop, with seeds going on to be crushed
for oils and the associated meal used for Smile’ and ‘Waooh!’ for the front of a border These sunny blooms are also easy to
feeding animals. or even a pot. grow, which makes them a great choice
The French name for sunflower is Some, such as ‘Helios Flame’ and ‘Solar for children.
tournesol, meaning ‘turn to the sun’, a Flare’, produce several heads on single Plant sunflowers under cover from
reference to the way in which the heads stems, which makes them ideal for cutting April, bringing them on in pots of compost
of younger plants begin the day facing to display in vases. and transferring them outside once the
east before gradually turning to the west, Many gardeners save vitamin E-rich ground has warmed up sufficiently in late
although by the time they’re fully grown sunflower seeds for eating, although ‘Tasty May or early June. Alternatively wait until
their positions are fixed. Treat’ also produces edible leaves, flower the threat of frosts has passed and sow
Farmers select the best cultivars for buds and petals. them direct outside.
oil production when they’re buying their And while most people treat sunflowers Sunflowers can be grown in a wide
seeds, but for gardeners there is a much as annual plants, which means they need to range of soils, although well-drained
wider choice. be sown every spring, it’s possible to grow types that warm up quickly in spring give
Yellow may be the best known colour perennial types such as ‘Year on Year’. the best results.
for sunflowers, but their blooms can be Sunflowers not only look great but are Use stakes or something similar to
red, orange, green and even cream. beneficial to wildlife too. Seeds, especially support especially tall sunflowers and
They come in a range of sizes, from the those with soft black shells, provide a useful prevent them from toppling over, and use
lofty ‘Russian Giant’, ‘Tall Timbers’ and source of food for birds, while nectar-rich some form of slug deterrent to protect
‘Giraffe’ to shorter specimens such as ‘Big blooms are frequently visited by bees. young plants.
THINGS TO DO IN THE GARDEN THIS MONTH

SUNFLOWER: © SUE BRADLEY
1 Watch out for weeds: the

warming weather means weeds
will be emerging. Use a hoe to slice
2 Cover unused seed beds with
horticultural fleece to warm the soil
and encourage weed seeds to germinate
3 Assess lawns for
winter damage.
Sow grass seeds to
4 Sow hardy annuals
and wildflower seeds
outdoors once the weather
through these unwanted seedlings. so they can be removed before sowing. repair bare patches. starts to warm up.

N GARDE
E
TS • OP
NS
Open gardens: Dordogne
• J AR D
Member of France’s Open Gardens scheme, Frances Pengelly
reveals what works in her two-acre garden in the south-west
ER
W
INS UV
O
e live in a
little village
in Dordogne
in south-west
France where
limestone is abundant and
the soil is alkaline. Our garden
is approximately two acres
and was only rough ground
when we started to build it
12 years ago. Seven glorious
acacia trees stand in a row in
one half of the garden; this
is where my herb garden is
situated with all its angelica.
Willows, pines, a medlar, fruit
trees and winter-flowering
shrubs all thrive in the poor-ish
soil. I am especially keen on
winter-flowering shrubs of
which I have a Daphne odora,
winter-flowering honeysuckle,
weeping pear with its silver
leaves, many types of jasmine,
a collection of different
coloured Chaenomeles and
two tree peonies, as well as
many crab apples, Forsythia
and a mimosa.
We have three ponds which
are full of a variety of goldfish.
These are surrounded by beds
of various shrubs, poppies, cloistered against a 13th- show the strain of heat, and I got involved with
bulbs and Euphorbia, their century church, which stands watering has to start. Autumn Open Gardens after a
yellowy-green flowers taking on the edge of our property. is lovely, but flowers are sparse. casual remark by a friend
us well into early summer. Collared doves sit in the From the end of September prompted me to call
Irises are one of my almond trees, the occasional until November we have a the local Open Gardens
favourites – they grow in rat is seen running for cover remarkable growing window. coordinator, who made it
the main beds, and I have and our little owls sit in the This is true working time for quite clear we were very
made a tiny iris garden in willow tree in the bantam me, and I spend my time welcome. We opened two
the pretty well area. Iris run. We have the occasional taking cuttings and moving years ago and have had a
pseudacorus, the emblem of squirrel and sometimes hares plants to better positions. good number of people.
France, coupled with Honesty visit us. The lily ponds act as an Winter sometimes has lovely My favourite thing about
grow along the margins of the attraction to large dragonflies, sunny days followed by very my garden is the fact it
ponds, together with Primula frogs, toads and local cats who frosty nights. The continent is my creation and I have
pulverulenta. All the plants like fishing for goldfish. The of Europe can be unbearably always wanted to create a
grow riotously in their own bees and butterflies are busy cold and temperatures can garden in France.
space; it’s marvellous. here too, but alas, there are be as low as -14ºC. It is not opengardens.eu
Wildlife is encouraged into fewer than in past years. easy gardening here with
the garden by the bantams, The garden is at its best in very hot summers and very
hens and fantail doves that spring and I can easily deal cold winters. Last year we ARE YOU A
all live in a small secondary with it then. Summer is lovely, had no rain from June until KEEN GARDENER?
Email us at editorial@livingfrance.com
garden containing an old well, but it is by then beginning to late September.

LES PRATIQUES
Property news
Whether you’re planning your move to France, or are already living
Follow us for th
latest new
@LivingFrance
s
e
there, we bring you the latest from the world of French property ONLINE
MORTGAGE
ADVICE
A new online French
mortgage video channel
has been launched by
International Private Finance
(IPF), offering prospective
buyers advice on the French
mortgage and property
buying process. The series
of videos covers a range of
topics, from re-mortgaging in
France to how French lenders
calculate the amount buyers
can borrow. Joint managing
director of IPF, Fiona Watts,
said the channel is off to a
promising start. “The channel
has been very well received
by our clients and partners
and we will continue to
launch new videos in the
coming weeks and months.”
internationalprivatefinance.
com/french-mortgage-
video-channel
The highs and lows

O
n the whole, 2016 was a risen by 0.8% and house prices, which resale apartments, followed by Nancy with
dynamic year for the French had fluctuated slightly, bounced back, an increase of 5.6%.
property market, according to increasing by 1.3%. This rise meant that The outlook for 2017 is positive: based
the latest report by Notaires de France. for the third consecutive quarter, prices on the number of preliminary contracts
Analysing the property market in the rose year-on-year by 1.6%, with a more across France, the price index projection
third quarter of 2016, the report reveals marked increase for houses (+1.8%) than for the end of February 2017 suggests this
that an estimated 843,000 transactions apartments (+1.3%). upward trend will continue. Trends for
were completed in the 12 months to the However, this upward trend has resale apartments show an increase of
end of October, representing a year-on- not been seen across the whole 4.5%, which would mark a return to the
year increase of 9%. country. Annual trends regarding resale price levels of 2014, while a rise of 5.7% in
Several factors were shown to apartments outside of Île-de-France resale house prices would bring prices to
influence the market, including interest- are mixed. For example, prices in St- the same level as in 2012.
free loans, relative price stability in Étienne and Dijon fell by 2.9% and 4% In addition to lending rates, several
major towns and attractive interest respectively, while prices remained other factors will impact the property
© VENTDUSUD; 3D-GURU / THINKSTOCK
rates. The latter is thought to have stable in Besançon, Grenoble, Marseille, market, including government schemes,
helped boost buyers’ purchasing power Montpellier, Nice, Orléans, Rennes and such as the Pinel programme which
by 29% over the last eight years. Tours. Meanwhile, a steady rise of 2.5% encourages rental investment. However,
Property prices continued to rise, year-on-year was noted in Toulouse, a return to the exemption from capital
following trends first noted at the Lyon, Brest, Toulon, Reims, Strasbourg, gains tax after 15 years of ownership could
start of the year. In the third quarter Lille and Le Havre. Bordeaux recorded stabilise prices and attract buyers.
of the year, apartment prices had the biggest price increase of 9.8% for notaires.fr

CURRENCY NEWS
Revamp for ski resort Politics rule the roost

The ski resort of Val-d’Isère in the French Alps will Charles Murray of FC Exchange
benefit from a €200 million regeneration project over examines how Brexit, Grexit and
the next five years.
Frexit are ruling the currency markets
The redevelopment, which is expected to
be completed in 2022, will centre around the
February was another politically fuelled month with both Grexit and
central Le Coin area with the creation of a new
Brexit headlines making their way to the surface, amid a swell of
shopping district, two four-star hotels, and a
political polls which have increased anxiety that a Frexit could follow.
series of residential properties. The price of
The pound to euro (GBP/EUR) exchange rate finished February
quality new-build or renovated properties in
trending in the same region that it had begun at 1.1700 – but there
Val-d’Isère has risen by 18% in the past two years,
were still some notable movements. Greece’s economic tragedy
reaching €20,000/m², according to Athena Advisors.
caused tremors in the market once again as uncertainty rose about
Property in the French Alps is currently in high
whether the nation may leave the eurozone and potentially the EU.
demand from US buyers and those with currencies
If such an event occurred, Greece may be left severely unprotected
that have risen in value against the euro. In the last
with no money to fund its forces, leaving it vulnerable at a time when
two years, the dollar has increased by 20% against
Turkey is pushing territory boundaries.
the euro. According to skiingproperty.com, the
Sterling strengthened further as far-right National Front political
high-end resorts of Méribel, Courchevel, Morzine,
party leader Marine Le Pen closed the gap on her rivals ahead of the
Val-d’Isère and Megève are among the most popular.
upcoming French elections. With markets wary of France’s political
skiingproperty.com
future, the pound was able to break through the key resistance level of
athenaadvisers.com
1.1900 for the first time in 2017 and hit a two-month high.
PIC
OF THK
However, sterling softened as disappointing UK inflation data
emerged, reaching 1.8% rather than the 1.9% forecast. Investors
MONT E were hoping for higher inflation numbers in order to push the Bank
H of England (BoE) towards increasing interest rates. Additionally, the
pound weakened on account of the ongoing Article 50 developments
and news that another Scottish referendum could take place.
Looking ahead, polls have suggested Le Pen could be the champion
of the first election on 23 April, but is unlikely to win the second round.
However, if the controversial leader were to win, the euro could sink as
France would undertake its own EU referendum.
Both the pound and euro could soften further versus the US dollar
FRANCE PROPERTY SHOP as speculation intensifies that the US Federal Reserve will hike interest
rates. If you’re considering transferring money overseas, talk to a broker
Freddy Rueda from Real Estate Languedoc has chosen
about how to protect your funds from adverse market movements.
this stone-built house as his property of the month.
fcexchange.com
The three-bedroom property includes a spacious kitchen
and living area that has a light, airy feel throughout while
stone walls and wooden beams add character. There is
also a small gîte and an outdoor swimming pool, and the
tiled terrace is an ideal place to appreciate the stunning Cash back
countryside views. On the market for €594,000, the
The French government has French law differs from EU law and the
property is just 25 minutes from Béziers and half an hour
announced it will refund tax agents’ matter was then taken to the European
from the beach.
fees that UK residents had to pay on Court, where the charge was abolished.
realestatelanguedoc.com
the sale of French properties before Those who are eligible for a refund
1 January 2015. are advised to make their claim as
Before this date, non-French soon as possible at the French tax
residents who were selling French office as limitation periods apply. It is
property were required to appoint advisable to make the claim by the end
a représentant fiscal (tax agent) to of the second calendar year following
calculate how much capital gains tax the year that the property was sold.
the seller had to pay. This change in law only applies to
According to solicitor David EU residents; sellers from outside the
Anderson, the necessity of having a tax EU still have to appoint a tax agent.
Don’t forget to sign up for the weekly newsletter agent was challenged on the basis that saplaw.co.uk

LES PRATIQUES For more properties for
sale across France visit
Properties under €200,000

No matter what your budget, there are properties across France that offer excellent value for money.
This month, Stephanie Sheldrake takes a look at how much you can get for under €200,000
Ruffec
Charente
1 If you’re seeking a renovation project, take a look

at this three-bedroom house just a few minutes’
walk from Ruffec town centre. The property comprises
an entrance hall, kitchen and living room on the
ground floor. Upstairs are three bedrooms (two are
interconnected) and a shower room. There is also
an attic and a cellar. The house also benefits from a
lovely little south-facing garden. Ruffec is a good-sized
town in the north of Charente with all amenities.
In its current condition, the property is habitable but
would require a complete renovation to turn it into a
€29,000 comfortable home.
properties-in-charente.com
Néré
Charente-Maritime
2 This four-bedroom home with 140m2 of living

space offers exceptional value for money. In need
of some redecoration, this charming home boasts
central heating and nearly all windows are double
glazed. There is a large kitchen, lounge area with
fireplace, and all four of the bedrooms are a good size.
With an easily maintainable garden, the house would
make a good holiday home. The property benefits
from lovely views across the verdant countryside, and
is a short drive to a pretty village with weekly markets.
At such a great price, this property would definitely be
worth a look. €61,000
beauxvillages.com
Le Sourn
Morbihan
3 This detached south-facing stone and slate

property is situated in a peaceful hamlet and
boasts some 1.4 acres of land. The property is ready
to move into but some rooms need decorating. On
the ground floor is a tiled kitchen/diner area with
exposed beams, a tiled living room with a fireplace
and woodburner, and a toilet. On the first floor are
four bedrooms and a shower room with toilet. Despite
its quiet rural setting, the nearest shops are only three
kilometres away and the historic market town of
Guémené-sur-Scorff is 10km away.
€107,000 jbfrenchhouses.co.uk

EDITOR
’S
PICK
St-Pons-de-Thomières
Hérault
4 This characterful riverside

house is situated in a small
friendly village in the stunning
Haut-Languedoc National Park.
With 160m2 of living space spread
across three floors, this four-
bedroom house has a good-sized
open-plan dining room with a
fully equipped kitchen and a
cosy living room. The adjacent
property is also for sale and could
be connected to provide more
living space. The house is only a
short drive to the lively village of
St-Pons-de-Thomières.
€109,000 leggettfrance.com
Beaulieu-sur-Parthenay
Deux-Sèvres
5 This lovingly restored detached cottage is

situated in a quiet hamlet, 10 minutes from the
town of Parthenay. The cosy house is well insulated
with double glazing, two woodburners and electric
radiators. There is a spacious, bright open-plan living/
dining and kitchen area boasting a granite fireplace
with wood-burning stove and original wooden beams.
The kitchen has a double Belfast sink and a range
cooker with a distinct modern country style. There is a
downstairs bedroom/study, and a further two spacious
bedrooms upstairs, plus a large bathroom with
freestanding slipper bath and separate shower. €149,800
allez-francais.com
Carsac-Aillac
Dordogne
6 This pretty stone house oozes charm with its

characterful exposed stone walls, two large
fireplaces, thick wooden beams and terracotta floor.
There are three bedrooms, one bathroom, and outside
is a wooden terrace with a summer kitchen. The living
space is split across different levels, which adds to its
character and charm. Situated 10 minutes from Sarlat,
in the small village of Carsac, this lovely property
would make a fantastic little home for those who
don’t want the work of maintaining a garden, and
could equally be rented for holiday accommodation.
€191,000 sextantproperties.com

LES PRATIQUES
Ask the experts

Whether you’re planning your move to France, or are already living there, our panel of
professionals aims to keep you fully informed with the best advice for every eventuality
FLIGHT OF FANCY
Q
I am moving to France with my
five chickens and duck and would
like to know what the current
restrictions are. The differing opinions
I’ve come across online have been more
confusing than helpful!
Stephanie Richie
A
It is quite a complicated business,
what with chickens not being
classed as ‘pets’ alongside dogs,
cats, rabbits and even ferrets, but I hope
my answer gives a little food for thought.
Yes, the websites can indeed be
confusing, but it might be worth taking a
look at the Department for Environment
Food & Rural Affairs website: (gov.uk/
government/collections/guidance-on-
importing-and-exporting-live-animals-or-
animal-products) and it’s worth contacting
them by telephone. Your local vet ought to
be able to advise too.
Forms may need to be completed and
maybe even vaccinations given or blood
tests taken before travelling, and your
birds will need to be seen by a Defra vet
immediately prior to departure. On the bought in France once they are settled breed enthusiasts but, if you are only after
French side, the authorities there may into their new home and lifestyle. Others egg-laying garden pets, once any bird flu
need extra information, particularly with have done the same but, not wanting restrictions have been lifted, it should be
the current bird flu concerns. to lose a particular strain/bloodline or easy enough to buy good-quality laying
Bringing your chickens and duck with just a connection to their old birds, have birds at your local market.
you is possible, but the process can be so arranged to take fertile eggs over to France I’m sorry not to be able to give
complicated that many decide to give their and hatch them in a small incubator. you more specific, positive advice,
birds to trusted, reliable friends or relatives The French are quite keen poultry and I wish you well with your move.
in the UK and start afresh with birds keepers and there are plenty of pure- JEREMY HOBSON
The experts
JUPITERIMAGES; ANDREW LINSCOTT / THINKSTOCK
JEREMY HOBSON ROBERT KENT MATTHEW

has lived in France for 14 years is director of the CAMERON
and is a professional freelance tax and investment is a partner and
writer whose subject matter consultancy head of the French
appertains mainly to the Kentingtons, and offers legal services team
countryside, smallholdings and financial advice to at law firm
rural issues. British expats in France. Ashtons Legal.
j-c-jeremy-hobson.co.uk kentingtons.com ashtonslegal.co.uk

PENSION POT
Q
I plan to start drawing out from a
UK pension pot and I’m trying to
work out the amount that I’ll have
left, after deductions. I’ve been a French tax
resident for many years. I think I’d be better
declaring it as normal income and I know it
carries an automatic 10% rebate, but I can’t
work out the social contributions liability, or
if there are any.
John Byrne
A
The first issue is to understand
the definition of a ‘pension pot’,
as this could be almost any form
of retirement savings and there are many
kinds of these; far too many than is
possible to cover here. EQUAL RIGHTS income will still need to be included on a
Q
The most common form of pension My partner and I entered into French tax return, albeit with credit being
pot, which has a ‘draw’, however is a SIPP a civil partnership in the UK a given for any tax already paid in the UK
or self-invested pension plan (or it could few years ago. We own a house (the same situation arises in reverse, for
be a SSAS, which is a company variant). in France and are hoping to move there any UK residents with French income).
This offers the ability to draw down on a full-time basis this summer. Does our In this respect, it is always wise to seek the
income, as and when you need it, as partnership have the same legal status in guidance of local accountants.
opposed to a regular income. France as it does in the UK, and what does In addition, the survivor of the couple
If it is a pension, then there is no choice this mean in terms of our tax liabilities? would benefit from an exemption from
as to how to declare it; it must be declared Colin Rooney French inheritance tax on any legacy
as such. Indeed, there is a 10% allowance passing between them. In the absence of a
A
applied to pensions, including UK ones, A couple having completed a Civil CPA or PACS, an unmarried couple leaving
but there is a celling of €3,715 on this. Partnership (a CPA) in the UK, in anything between each other would be
As for social charges, the EU prohibits accordance with the terms of the imposing a 60% inheritance tax liability on
the removal of social charges for those Civil Partnerships Act 2004, will have his or her partner.
who are of state retirement age (thus under similar rights recognised in France. A CPA Finally, it is also important to note
the care of the UK via the S1 system). can be assimilated to a French PACS (Pacte that even when a couple has completed a
You can draw from a personal pension Civil de Solidarité), the only difference CPA or PACS there is not necessarily any
from the age of 50, so if you retired early between the two being that a French automatic right of inheritance in favour
then, in theory, social charges may be PACS is available equally to same-sex and of the survivor. They should therefore
applicable. I say ‘in theory’ because many heterosexual couples, while a CPA is only ensure that they give good consideration
early retirees are not asked to pay it, as available for a same-sex couple in the to drafting wills. In this respect, there
the local tax office has misunderstood EU UK. (At the time of writing, this apparent is really no ‘one-size-fits-all’ approach,
law where it states that social charges are discrimination under English law has been and therefore advice from solicitors
not applicable to pensions and applied the considered by the Court of Appeal, which experienced in French and English
ruling to all pensions. found that it was not unlawful. However inheritance law is important. It is not
This is becoming rarer as high-profile the case is likely to come before the even necessarily the case that choosing to
cases against the French government, Supreme Court, so the situation remains as declare that English law would apply to a
like the de Ruyter ruling, have raised yet uncertain.) person’s estate on death is always the most
awareness of social charges for foreigners, The consequence of recognition of a suitable option, despite the EU succession
so tax offices are becoming more informed CPA in France is that a couple should enjoy regulation that is now in force.
with regard to social charges. various social and financial benefits, upon MATTHEW CAMERON
Of course, what will happen to British which it is always prudent to speak to
citizens and their ability to access the health and welfare experts, and pensions
S1 system will be uncertain once the UK
leaves the EU.
and investment professionals.
The couple should also be able to DO YOU HAVE
In conclusion, you have a 10% submit a household income tax return, A QUESTION?
allowance on the income and, if you are of which should generally result in an overall
state retirement age and have an S1, there reduction in the income tax burden. It
TO ASK OUR PANEL OF EXPERTS
are, currently, no social charges to pay. is important to note, though, that when
Email us at editorial@livingfrance.com
ROBERT KENT moving to France permanently any UK

LES PRATIQUES
€
On the money Exchange rate fees
Will you have to budget for fees for
It’s important to factor in the one-off and recurring moving your money to France? It
depends on which service provider
expenses you’ll have to pay as you buy a property
you use. High street banks are likely
and settle in France, as Rewan Tremethick explains to charge you a fee to send money
abroad. However, reputable currency
T
brokers usually don’t charge a fee –
because of their size and sole focus
he UK tax year will soon be ending, percentage of the sale value of the property.
on foreign exchange, brokers can
and seeing as it’s on everyone’s If you agree to pay the estate agent’s fees,
offer highly competitive exchange
minds anyway, now seems a good make sure that these are outlined separately
rates as well, making sure you get
time to examine the kinds of taxes in the contract from the cost of the property,
the most for your money. Instead
you will be liable for as you move to avoid these being taken into account for
of being a ‘cost’, the services of a
to France. Just as in the UK, there are quite a tax calculations.
currency broker can actually help
few to keep track of! We’ll also be exploring
you deal with the other outlays
some of the currency services you can take NOTAIRE’S FEES
involved in purchasing a property
advantage of in order to help make your Although often referred to as ‘notaire’s costs’,
more easily.
money go further. the money you pay to the notaire is actually
Depending on the type of
Let’s start by looking at some of the biggest distributed to several different places. As well
transfer you make, there may be
costs you’ll come across when moving abroad; as the fees charged by the notaire – which
upfront costs to consider. Many
namely the one-off and recurring expenses are between 2.5 and 5% excluding additional
people intending to purchase
you’ll be liable for as you buy a property and costs – you will also have to pay them a
a foreign property like to use a
settle across the Channel. fee for preparing the deeds to the property,
forward contract to protect them
mortgage fees, registration taxes and the
from currency risk. With a forward
ESTATE AGENT FEES necessary VAT on the purchase, among
contract, the exchange rate at the
There is no consistent law in France regarding other costs.
time the contract is arranged is fixed
who pays the agent immobilier’s fees when In total, 80% of the money paid to the
for up to two years.
buying a property. It can be either the buyer notaire is made up of taxes, which the notaire
When the time comes to transfer
or the seller. The estate agent works for the then pays to the state on behalf of the
your money, you do so at the
seller, entering into a contract called the client; 10% is used to cover expenses, such
exchange rate you secured and not
mandat de vente. This specifies who pays as drawing up documents and carrying out
at the current market rate. This can
the fees, but it is important to note that this surveys, with the final 10% remunerating
make a difference of thousands of
only applies if you agree to it. The contract is the notarial service itself; known as the
euros if the markets weaken while
between the seller and the agent, so has no émoluments et honoraires.
you are negotiating your purchase.
legal power over you. If you refuse, you will Fees paid to notaires are held at the Caisse
It also helps you to budget, as
likely have to negotiate as the seller will want des Dépôts (Deposit and Consignment Office)
you’ll always know exactly how
to mitigate the extra costs. and are only released once all formalities of
much sterling you’ll need to get the
Estate agent fees are usually between 5 and the sale have been completed.
required sum of euros.
10% of the property’s valuation and are liable In total, notaire’s fees can be equivalent to
You may have to pay a deposit
to TVA (taxe sur la valeur ajoutée), the French around 40% of the purchase price
when you take out a forward
name for VAT. of a new-build property, or around
contract – it’s a legally binding
Initially, the idea of having to pay the estate 25% on a property that is more than
contract that must be honoured –
agent’s fees may seem unappealing, but it five years old.
but this isn’t an extra cost, as it’ll be
could be to your advantage. Sellers paying
transferred into euros at the same
the fees will increase the asking price of their
time as the rest of your money is sent
property to compensate for the additional
to complete the purchase.
outlay. This raises the notaire’s
fees due to be paid by the buyer,
as these are calculated as a
SEBASTIAANBLOCKMANS/THINKSTOCK
© GRAFIXCHON/THINKSTOCK;

MORE
ONLINE
Currency exchange
rates in 2017
completefrance.com/
french-property
TAXE D’HABITATION
Unfortunately the taxes don’t stop once the
property purchase has been completed!
Also known as the ‘occupier’s tax’, the taxe
d’habitation is the French equivalent of
the UK’s council tax. It is levied on every
household in France, regardless of whether it
is a main home or a second residence.
The person who occupies the property
on 1 January – the start of the French tax
year – must pay the taxe d’habitation due,
whether this is a tenant (paying or otherwise)
or the owner. This does not necessarily mean les propriétés bâties) and land (taxe foncière DO YOUR SUMS
you have to be present in the property on sur les propriétés non bâties). This is paid by These fees and taxes can add a lot to the
that day, just that you currently have the the owner of the property, irrespective of total cost of purchasing a French property,
right to occupy the home and it is in suitable who occupies it, and is also calculated based but knowing about them in advance means
condition to be occupied. upon the theoretical rental value of your you won’t be in for any nasty surprises
Broadly speaking, the tax is calculated by home, adjusted for inflation. This is due on 15 and that you can budget accordingly.
taking the average rental cost in your area and October and is paid in arrears, not in advance. Considering different taxes are due at
multiplying this by a percentage set by your The taxe foncière comprises several different times of year – and you may be
local commune (council). It is collected by the additional taxes and charges, including a required to pay them even if you haven’t
central government, however. charge for collection of household rubbish been present in the country much (or at
It is usually paid as a lump sum by 15 (taxe d’enlevement des ordures ménagères) all) – it’s even more important to take your
November, although you can also pay it in for those communes where this service time and stay on top of your French tax
monthly instalments. Because you know the is provided. The funds collected are split requirements.
date that the tax is due to be paid, you can between the commune, the group of As well as planning your finances
use a forward contract at an earlier point in communes that the commune belongs to and for the year, you can do the same with
the year when the market is in your favour to the department. your currency transfers. Work out which
fix a strong GBP-EUR exchange rate. This helps The occupier is obligated to pay the tax for outgoings require a lump sum transfer and
to effectively reduce the amount of tax you the full year, even if they sell their property which will require smaller, regular transfers,
have to pay by securing you more euros for during the year. Sellers in France therefore and then use the variety of transfer options
your pounds. often stipulate in the contract that the buyer at your disposal to help make your money
must share the tax burden with them. go further.
TAXE FONCIÈRE Unlike the taxe d’habitation, the taxe
Also payable every year is the taxe foncière, foncière is paid regardless of whether or not Rewan Tremethick is a
or ‘fundamental tax’, which is divided into you live in the property, have it as a second currency analyst at TorFX
two parts: tax on buildings (taxe foncière sur home, or rent it out permanently. torfx.com
Regular Overseas Payments

If you don’t have a lump sum Overseas Payments (ROP) service competitive exchange rate. account in France without having
of euros in your French bank from a reputable currency broker. This is especially useful if you to think about it all the time. You
account, you’ll need to transfer Simply specify the date, amount receive a UK pension, as most can also avoid the transfer fees
money across to France to and destination account for of these must be paid into an high street banks often charge,
meet monthly costs and living your transfer. Your money will account in sterling. ROPs give which add up to a significant
expenses. This can be easily be automatically transferred at you an easy way of getting your amount if you send money
achieved using a Regular the same time each month at a retirement funds into your bank overseas every month.

LES PRATIQUES
For all seasons Keen to make the most of your holiday let in
France all year round? Laura Habgood explains
how to maximise its potential
R
enting your property in France THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX couples and young families to your property.
to guests can provide you with a ‘Out of season’ can usually be defined as If you are able to, try to be more flexible
regular customer base and a steady the period outside of the school holidays during the off-peak season and offer short
income, but how can you get the and your target market is likely to be very breaks or flexible changeover days to fit in
most out of your rental during different during this time – it could include with the needs of your customer, and to
the quieter, out-of-season periods as well as older people with grown-up children, families appeal to those who, for example, are looking
during the peak times? with very young pre-school children, couples for a long weekend in France.
First of all, it is vitally important to define without children or possibly a group of adults. Travel is also a lot cheaper outside of the
the low and high season for you and your House-hunters looking for a property to buy peak season, including ferry travel, which
property and to think about who your target will need somewhere to stay during viewing allows guests to travel with their car and
market is likely to be during these times. trips too, and will probably prefer to arrange without restrictions on the amount of luggage
During the peak seasons of summer and these outside of peak season as it will be they are able to take with them. Be sure
Christmas, your guests are often likely to quieter and less expensive. to mention this in your marketing if your
be families with school-age children, so it is Although the weather may be perceived as property is within easy reach of a port.
really important your marketing during this being colder or wetter during this time, you If you offer a welcome/information pack at
time reflects this and promotes the child- can still get some lovely sunshine in France your property, this will also need to be tailored
friendliness of your property. Be sure to during the spring and autumn (and some to the type of guest visiting your property
mention any special features such as children’s of winter!). Furthermore, beaches and other and the time of year they are staying. This will
bedrooms and games rooms, and to talk attractions are likely to be much less crowded ensure that the information provided to your
about your outside space and swimming pool than during the peak periods, which will guests is always relevant and that the details
if you have one – pools tend to be a big draw appeal to a lot of people. you give them are up to date.
and feature on holidaymakers’ wish lists. You will need to change your marketing
You should also refer to the best child- during the off-peak period and tailor it to YEAR-ROUND APPEAL
friendly attractions near to your property, suit your target audience in order to secure France truly is a place for all seasons. During
including zoos and theme parks such as the maximum number of bookings. For September and October, the landscape
Futuroscope near Poitiers and Puy du Fou example, if you have a fire or wood-burning starts to change and becomes filled with the
in Vendée. A property that has plenty to see stove, be sure to feature photographs of this beautiful colours of autumn. There are still
and do in the local area is likely to be very on your website or advertising portal so that many hours of sunshine in France during
attractive to holidaymakers who have children potential guests will really be able to imagine this period, although temperatures start to
that need to be entertained! themselves snuggled up by the fire. Post become slightly cooler. This is the perfect time
Make a point of including photographs of regular updates to your social media accounts to wander along one of the many footpaths
any local beaches or places of interest with the so your audience will be able to get a feel for and look at the changing colours of the leaves,
sun shining, and let your guests know about your property in all seasons. You could also or to go hunting for chestnuts or mushrooms
any special events or festivals that may be consider offering special deals for under- in the forests. Autumn also signals the start
taking place during their stay. occupancy during quieter periods to attract of the grape harvest in France, and the
How to maximise your marketing

• Make sure your website more information you can give easy as possible for potential to offer special interest breaks
© MONIQUE POUZET/FOTOLIA; HOLIDAY FRANCE
has up-to-date information. the more reassured they will feel. guests to imagine themselves perhaps? You could also ask at
Include details of what your staying in your property the local tourist office if there are
property offers (swimming pool, • Take lots of high-resolution at any time of the year. any gaps in the market so you can
wifi access, etc), and also of photographs showing it at its offer the type of accommodation
local attractions and activities, best, and highlight any features • Think about any niche markets your area needs most.
giving the distances involved. that make your property unusual you could tap into to appeal to a
Holidaymakers want to know or unique. Remember, this is wider audience. Could you join up • Special offers and
DIRECT;
what they can expect, and the your shop window! Make it as with other businesses in the area promotions are a quick and

numerous wine festivals that take place are an
ideal opportunity for your guests to sample
and purchase the famous local tipple.
France’s Christmas markets are a big draw in
winter, and those who are keen to experience
the magic of a French marché de Noël will be
looking for somewhere to stay, giving you
another opportunity to make the most of your
holiday let during the colder months. Markets
are held across the country, and there are Holiday home
from home
plenty of other wintertime celebrations too,
such as the Fête des Lumières in Lyon. It’s a
nice touch to decorate your property during
this time for your guests, and you could even
Julie and Eric Audigé moved to Logis de Lussais
provide a tree for them so they really feel at
home during their Christmas break.
in Deux-Sèvres in January 2016. We asked them
The arrival of spring brings warmer weather how they make the most of their holiday let
and lots more festivals, in addition to the throughout the seasons
Easter break. It’s a good idea to promote
any local events on your social media pages,
and be sure to have information about these What should you do to extras, such as breakfast
available at your property so that guests can make the most of your included for short breaks.
get the most out of their stay. property outside of the Make sure that your customers
During the summer months, your guests main season? know what kind of heating
will be spoilt for choice for what to do. The It’s important to update your you have in the property
climate during this period is usually warm and photographs according to the during the winter months, and
sunny, especially in the south of France, and it season. There’s no point in if there will be any extra costs
is the perfect time to explore the many miles showing a swimming pool for involved for this.
of long sandy beaches and rugged coastal a promotion in April if you do Be flexible if you can with
paths that France has to offer. Further inland, not open it until July. Always dates. If your customers come
there are natural parks and open countryside use sunny photographs even mostly by plane then it’s
to explore, not to mention fields of sunflowers in autumn or spring. worth checking the arrival
and lavender that go on for miles on end. Use promotions and special and departure days. Very
By knowing your audience and effectively offers during Christmas or few airports/airlines will offer
tailoring your marketing, you can turn your Easter, again with appropriate Saturday to Saturday, so in the
French property into a thriving holiday let all photos. I do go on about shoulder season we make sure
year round! pictures, but according to that our accommodation is in
statistics, customers will be sync with our local airline.
Laura Habgood is a Brittany Ferries’ property booking with their eyes first, so Short breaks are more
adviser with Holiday France Direct make them a priority. popular in the winter. Make
brittanyferries.com sure your rates are updated to
holidayfrancedirect.com Is your target market reflect this.
different outside of the
peak season? Do you offer any
You will find that there is a promotions or link up
vast amount of people who with any local events
like to enjoy the out-of-season throughout the year?
holiday, mainly because they Features and promotions
can! For example, families are essential to build future
with pre-school aged children, bookings. Creating a 12-month
empty-nest couples and the plan to set your promotions up
grey-green market to name and reserve feature slots could
easy way to help your holiday Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, but a few. They all enjoy lower be the difference between
accommodation stand out and link these to your website. prices and quieter roads with success and failure. Base your
from the crowd. You could offer no queues! marketing on the season,
early booking discounts or • Encourage guests to leave
national and local events
incentives such as free airport reviews and include these
Should you offer any – especially out-of-season
transfers or free bike hire. on your website – personal
extras to guests during the events and activities – and
recommendations offer
quieter months? focus on your customer type.
• Make the most of social reassurance and peace of mind
Yes, you should offer little Timing is key!
media by setting yourself up on to prospective holidaymakers.

On the map
Use our detailed map to help plan your route and
understand France’s departmental and regional boundaries
THE DEPARTMENTS
Each of France’s 96 departments is listed below with the departmental capital, or préfecture,
in brackets.
01 Ain (Bourg-en-Bresse) 24 Dordogne (Périgueux) 50 Manche (St-Lô) 73 Savoie (Chambéry)
02 Aisne (Laon) 25 Doubs (Besançon) 51 Marne 74 Haute-Savoie (Annecy)
03 Allier (Moulins) 26 Drôme (Valence) (Châlons-en-Champagne) 75 Ville-de-Paris (Paris)
04 Alpes-de-Haute-Provence 27 Eure (Évreux) 52 Haute-Marne (Chaumont) 76 Seine-Maritime (Rouen)
(Digne) 28 Eure-et-Loir (Chartres) 53 Mayenne (Laval) 77 Seine-et-Marne (Melun)
05 Hautes-Alpes (Gap) 29 Finistère (Quimper) 54 Meurthe-et-Moselle (Nancy) 78 Yvelines (Versailles)
06 Alpes-Maritimes (Nice) 30 Gard (Nîmes) 55 Meuse (Bar-le-Duc) 79 Deux-Sèvres (Niort)
07 Ardèche (Privas) 31 Haute-Garonne (Toulouse) 56 Morbihan (Vannes) 80 Somme (Amiens)
08 Ardennes (Charleville-Mézières) 32 Gers (Auch) 57 Moselle (Metz) 81 Tarn (Albi)
09 Ariège (Foix) 33 Gironde (Bordeaux) 58 Nièvre (Nevers) 82 Tarn-et-Garonne
10 Aube (Troyes) 34 Hérault (Montpellier) 59 Nord (Lille) (Montauban)
11 Aude (Carcassonne) 35 Ille-et-Vilaine (Rennes) 60 Oise (Beauvais) 83 Var (Toulon)
12 Aveyron (Rodez) 36 Indre (Châteauroux) 61 Orne (Alençon) 84 Vaucluse (Avignon)
13 Bouches-du-Rhône (Marseille) 37 Indre-et-Loire (Tours) 62 Pas-de-Calais (Arras) 85 Vendée
14 Calvados (Caen) 38 Isère (Grenoble) 63 Puy-de-Dôme (La Roche-sur-Yon)
15 Cantal (Aurillac) 39 Jura (Lons-le-Saunier) (Clermont-Ferrand) 86 Vienne (Poitiers)
16 Charente (Angoulême) 40 Landes (Mont-de-Marsan) 64 Pyrénées-Atlantiques (Pau) 87 Haute-Vienne (Limoges)
17 Charente-Maritime 41 Loir-et-Cher (Blois) 65 Hautes-Pyrénées (Tarbes) 88 Vosges (Épinal)
(La Rochelle) 42 Loire (St-Étienne) 66 Pyrénées-Orientales 89 Yonne (Auxerre)
18 Cher (Bourges) 43 Haute-Loire (Le Puy) (Perpignan) 90 Territoire-de-Belfort (Belfort)
19 Corrèze (Tulle) 44 Loire-Atlantique (Nantes) 67 Bas-Rhin (Strasbourg) 91 Essonne (Évry)
2a Corse-du-Sud (Ajaccio) 45 Loiret (Orléans) 68 Haut-Rhin (Colmar) 92 Hauts-de-Seine (Nanterre)
2b Haute-Corse (Bastia) 46 Lot (Cahors) 69 Rhône (Lyon) 93 Seine-St-Denis (Bobigny)
21 Côte-d’Or (Dijon) 47 Lot-et-Garonne (Agen) 70 Haute-Saône (Vesoul) 94 Val-de-Marne (Créteil)
22 Côtes-d’Armor (St-Brieuc) 48 Lozère (Mende) 71 Saône-et-Loire (Mâcon) 95 Val-d’Oise (Pontoise)
23 Creuse (Guèret) 49 Maine-et-Loire (Angers) 72 Sarthe (Le Mans)
TRAVEL INFORMATION
FERRIES DFDS Seaways airfrance.co.uk easyJet Tel: 0845 601 0956
Brittany Ferries Tel: 0844 576 8836 Aurigny Air Services Tel: 0330 365 5000 swiss.com
Tel: 0330 159 7000 dfdsseaways.co.uk Tel: 01481 822 886 easyjet.com
brittany-ferries.co.uk P&O Ferries aurigny.com Flybe RAIL
Stena Line Tel: 0871 664 2121 Blue Islands Tel: 0871 700 2000 Eurotunnel
Tel: 0120 47777 poferries.com Tel: 08456 202122 flybe.com Tel: 08443 35 35 35
stenaline.ie blueislands.com Jet2 eurotunnel.com
Condor Ferries AIRLINES bmi regional Tel: 0800 408 1350 Eurostar
Tel: 01202 207216 Aer Arann Tel: 0844 4172 600 jet2.com Tel: 08432 186 186
condorferries.co.uk Tel: 0871 718 5000 bmiregional.com Lyddair eurostar.com
Irish Ferries aerarann.com British Airways Tel: 01797 322 207 Voyages-sncf.com
Tel: 0818 300 400 Aer Lingus Tel: 0844 493 0787 lyddair.com Tel: 08448 485 848
irishferries.com Tel: 0871 718 5000 britishairways.com Ryanair uk.voyages-sncf.com
LD Lines aerlingus.com CityJet Tel: 0871 246 0000
Tel: 0844 576 8836 Air France Tel: 0871 405 2020 ryanair.com
ldlines.co.uk Tel: 0871 663 3777 cityjet.com Swiss International

Brittany Ferries 
(Portsmouth & Poole)
Stena Line Lyddair Eurostar
(Rosslare) Eurotunnel (Folkestone)
Condor Ferries  P&O Ferries (Dover)
(Portsmouth) DFDS Seaways (Dover)
Irish Ferries Eurostar
(Rosslare & Dublin) Ryanair
Flybe
DFDS Seaways (Dover) Air France
DFDS Seaways British Airways
(Newhaven) Jet2
Brittany Ferries Aer Lingus
(Portsmouth) CityJet
Dunkerque easyJet
Flybe  Eurostar
Brittany Ferries
Calais BMI Regional
(Portsmouth) Lille
(Portsmouth & Plymouth) DFDS Seaways 62
Condor Ferries  (Portsmouth)
HAUTS-DE-
(Poole & Weymouth) Le Touquet
FRANCE 59
Eurostar
Ryanair
Aurigny Ryanair  80
Flybe  Amiens
Dieppe 76 02
08
Cherbourg Le Havre
Irish Ferries  Rouen 60
(Rosslare)
50 Caen Deauville Metz
(Plymouth & Cork) 14 27 Marne- 51 57
la-Vallée Châlons-en- 55 Fly Kiss
NormandIE Paris Champagne
Strasbourg
Brest Roscoff
61 Ile-de- GRAND-EST 54 67
22 Dinard St-Malo
France British Airways
29 BrETAGNE 28 easyJet
Quimper
Rennes 53 10 88 Swiss International
Fly Kiss Ryanair
Flybe 56 35 72 Orléans
52
Lorient Pays-de- 68
41 45 89 70
British 44 la-Loire Tours
21 90 Basel-
Mulhouse
Airways  ANGERS Dijon
Nantes Centre-VAL Besançon British Airways
49 37 DE LOIRE easyJet
18 58 BOURGOGNE- 25 Flybe
Jet2
Aer Lingus Franche-Comté Swiss International
Fly Kiss easyJet Poitiers 36 71 39
Blue Islands from
Jersey & Guernsey
Flybe Ryanair 85 79 Eurostar
Flybe
CityJet 86 03 Geneva
La Rochelle
British Airways 23 87 01 74 Bourg-St-Maurice
Limoges 69 Aime- Eurostar
17 16 Clermont-
Lyon
la-Plage (Dec-Apr)
easyJet 
NOUVELLE 63 Ferrand 42 Moûtiers
Flybe Chambéry British Airways 
CityJet  Ryanair Aquitaine Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes 73 Flybe
Ryanair Ryanair
19 Jet2
Flybe CityJet 24 Grenoble easyJet Air France 
Ryanair
Bordeaux
Brive 15 43 38 Jet2 Ryanair
Monarch 
Bergerac Ryanair
Aer Lingus
33 26 05 Norwegian
British Airways
easyJet 46 07 Flybe
Flybe Ryanair Rodez 48 Provence- British Airways 
Ryanair
Monarch
Jet2
Flybe 
47 OCCITANIE Alpes-Côte
British 30 84 d’Azur Monarch
Airways 
40 82 Nîmes Avignon 04 06 British Airways
81 12 Nice
easyJet
Jet2
FlyKISS
32 Toulouse Montpellier 13 Aix-en-Provence Flybe
Pau 31 34 Marseille 83
Biarritz Béziers
64 65
Toulon CityJet 
09 11 Flybe Bastia
Lourdes
Carcassonne Calvi
Air France
Ryanair
66 Air France Corse easyJet 
easyJet
easyJet 
Flybe 
Perpignan
Ryanair
British Airways
easyJet
2b Flybe 
British Airways  Aer Lingus Ryanair Ajaccio

Ryanair British Airways Eurostar
easyJet Ryanair Ryanair Eurostar
2a
Jet2 (May-June) easyJet  Figari
Flybe
Ryanair
Flybe  Jet2 British Airways 
Ryanair British Airways
Aer Lingus easyJet Flybe 
CityJet 
Seasonal flights Eurostar
Flybe Eurostar
Check websites for details Monarch 
Ryanair
FIVE MINUTE french answers Le mot Test your French UNSCRAMBLE THE LETTERS TO
commun Un assuré = a policyholder FIND THE FOUR FRENCH VERBS
LES MOTS CACHÉS 1. or Une demande = an application croissant
S E R V I C E S
P 2. pot Une prime d’assurance = an insurance premium brioche
A N S
C E F A C T U R E 3. loup Un dégrèvement d’impôt = tax reduction chouquettes
K
A
T
W E
N pain au raisins
G O M THE PERFECT MATCH
E P R I C E
S K G O Une gazinière = gas cooker WHERE AM I?
A W
I N S U R A N C E N Une chaudière = boiler Cirque de Gavarnie
M
E
F O U R N I S S E
E
U R
Un tuyau = pipe Canal du Nivernais
A

PROPERTIES FOR SALE
Property directory
Whether you’re looking for a renovation project, the perfect holiday bolt-hole or that château you’ve always
dreamed of, Living France’s property directory should be the first place to look. To help you hit the ground
running, we’ve put together a back-to-basics guide to buying a French property. Bonne chance!
BUYING PROPERTY DOS & DON’TS

z Vendor and buyer agree on the price
and terms of contract, including any DOS
conditional clauses (clauses suspensives) Do ask to see an estate agent’s
and any furniture included in the sale. carte professionnelle, which they must
hold in order to work as an estate
z Agent’s fees (les frais d’agence) are agent in France.
usually included in the price and as such, Do check the records of the
paid by the buyer. Check this is the case. property and land before making an
The notaire’s fixed fees plus tax (les frais offer; be clear about boundaries,
de notaire) are also usually paid by the rights of way and access.
buyer and are on top of the purchase Do take legal advice on tax
price. When buying privately, there will matters and inheritance law.
be no agent’s fees but notaire’s fees will Do view the property on the day
still apply. of completion before signing the acte
de vente, which specifies that the
z The preliminary sales contract z The notaire handles the conveyancing, purchase is ‘sold as seen’.
(compromis de vente) is drawn up by which typically takes two to three months. Do shop around in advance for the
the agent or notaire and signed by both When all the paperwork is ready, the best currency exchange rate deals.
parties. If the buyer is buying privately notaire confirms the date and time of the Do remember to open a French
from a vendor, it’s the notaire who draws signing of the acte de vente. bank account and make your
up the contract. mortgage application in good time.
z Reports on lead, asbestos and flood Do visit the Notaires de France
z The buyer pays the deposit (usually zones (and in some areas, termites) are website. It has lots of helpful
5-10% of the purchase price) to the notaire mandatory; the vendor pays for these. An information in English.
and a 10-day cooling off period ensues, energy-efficiency report (known as a DPE, notaires.fr
during which the buyer can withdraw (but or diagnostic de performance énergétique)
the vendor cannot) and after which the is now also mandatory, while a natural DON’TS
contract is legally binding. If the buyer disaster risk report (état des risques naturels Don’t be tempted to sign a sales
pulls out after this, he forfeits his deposit. et technologiques) has to be provided in contract unless you are sure; once the
addition. It specifies whether the property cooling-off period is over, it is legally
z If you are going to buy with a mortgage, is within an area where there is a risk of binding and if you pull out you will
now is the time to put in your application. flooding or other natural or technological lose your deposit.
However, it is wise to apply for a mortgage disaster or accident. Don’t forget that the notaire will
in principle before you start your property make a charge of 6.5-10% in addition
hunt, to avoid disappointment later. z The buyer transfers the balance of to the purchase price of the property
payment to the notaire prior to completion. (this amount is different for new-
z If you are taking out a mortgage, this On the day of completion, all parties builds). The cheaper the property, the
will be a condition of the preliminary meet the notaire to sign the contract (the higher the percentage charged; this
sales contract, giving you the possibility buyer can appoint a proxy). Keys and an amount consists of the notaire’s fixed
of pulling out should your application attestation de vente are handed over and fees and tax.
be turned down. Once the offer is official, ownership is transferred. The final acte Don’t forget to allow for the
it will be confirmed to the notaire and the de vente papers are sent out around six expense of an interpreter being
contract becomes unconditional. months later. present if your French language skills
are poor; ask your agent or notaire
about this as they may be able to help.
Don’t forget that surveys are not
commonplace in France but you can
still arrange one.
Find thousands of properties for sale

on our website France Property Shop
86 Living France April 2017 To advertise call 01242 216099 or email property@livingfrance.com
87
Our selection for this month!
Call us on +33 (0)8 05 69 23 23
Freephone from UK: 0800 270 0101
IMMOBILIER or visit www.beauxvillages.com
Great value with a gîte, Lot et Garonne Quercy stone house, Tarn et Garonne Life in the country, Tarn et Garonne Village house, Charente-Maritime
5.5 acres of beautiful gardens, with stunning Charming character property with over 1 This 17th Century authentic character A 4 bedroom village house just a short distance
views over the countryside. Light and spacious hectare of land, in ELEVATED POSITION farmhouse is situated on the edge of a small to a pretty village with weekly markets. In need
accommodation combines modern comfort enjoying views of surrounding countryside. village of 200 inhabitants and is enclosed by of some redecoration, this property offers the
with original features throughout. Bergerac Perfectly habitable but would benefit from a mature walled garden of 2500m². 2 houses perfect opportunity for a holiday home with
airport 40 minutes drive. some up-dating. with a total of 5 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms. garden and views over the countryside.
Ref: 15585 €549 150 Ref: 16394 €190 800 Ref: 13773 €397 500 Ref: 16232 €61 000
Gascon farmhouse, Gers Chocolate box cottage, Gers In a bastide town, Tarn et Garonne Lovely village house, Lot et Garonne
With no near neighbours, and in a lovely Beautiful 12 century stone cottage packed full This spacious 4 bedroomed property is fully The views from the garden are glorious and
location, the property is within walking of character with beams, open fires and stone restored retaining its character and original far-reaching. The charming village features
distance of a pretty 13th century village and floors it offers separate guest and owners details like fireplaces, beams and exposed a post office, cafe, artisan baker and small
close to the famous St Jacques de Compostelle accommodation with 5 bedrooms in total plus stone work. In the south of the beautiful school. At just 35 minute's drive from Bergerac
pilgrims walking route. a 1 bedroom gite. Quercy region. airport, 50 minutes to Agen.
Ref: 14793 €299 000 Ref: 14940 €289 000 Ref: 10206 €222 600 Ref: 15816 €256 520
CHARENTE MARITIME
Luxurious 4-bedroom property in a beautiful village.
Currently used as a holiday home and rentals business but equally suitable as a
permanent family home. Superb 10m x 5m private enclosed heated pool, separate
cottage, outbuildings and extensive gardens.
€230,000
Contact details: 07721 652340
Martyn Jaggard martynjaggard@btinternet.com
Allez-Français www.allez-francais.com
– leading property 00 33 553 56 09 35 / 00 33 555 28 46 40
specialists for South contact@allez-francais.com
West France since 2002 A small business, but
big on initiative and ideas
RENOVATED TO THE HIGHEST STANDARDS

BY SKILLED LOCAL CRAFTSMAN
The total property is made up of 3 separate buildings with are stone build and
renovated to the highest standards by skilled local craftsman. Both stonework
and woodwork throughout are stunning.
This has been our permanent home since 2002, and is a joy. It could continue as such Nr Sarlat (Dordogne, 24) Cherves (Vienne, 86)
for the new owners, could be used as a business or it could be a perfect holiday home.
Stunning country estate farmhouse Well presented Maison de Maître
€740,000 (OVNO) with successful gite & two pools, in with 4 bedrooms and spacious
Contact details: 25 acres of woodland and pasture walled garden of 3,386m²
doug.riley@orange.fr or louise.riley@freesurf.fr en.frenchdreamhome.com
Price 833,450 € Price 268,515 €
88
Agence Immobilière Herman De Graaf
Contact: Cate Carnduff
Le Bourg-Saint-Jean de Côle – 24800 Thiviers – France.
Tel: 00 33 (0)553 62 38 03 Fax: 00 33 (0)553 55 08 03
e-mail: agence@immobilier-dordogne.com
Ref.2544 Ref.4328
Restored farm cottage, quietly set on Beautifully set small holding with farmhouse
1,4Ha of grazing land with a beautiful with pool (6x12m), 3,95ha of land, beautiful
view. Entrance, fitted kitchen, living room views & outbuildings. Lounge, fitted kitchen,
(50m2) with character features, shower, dining room, utility room & 5 bedrooms,
2 bedrooms and convertible loft space 3 bathrooms; cellar. Barn (145m2) & other
UNIQUE CHATEAU RENOVATION PROJECT (80m2). Barn (19m2). farm buildings.
Price: €110.000 agency fees included. Price: €297,000 agency fees included.
Make your dream of living in a French Chateau a reality, by taking on this historic chateau
ready to have its restoration completed. With over 6 hectares of terrain and located on a
private hilltop, approached via a 500m tree lined drive. A beautiful location with spectacular
views of the Pyrenees.
Split over 4 floors, with a loft room in the Pigeonnier Tower, the chateau comprises space for
4 large bedrooms with en suite bathrooms. 3 large reception rooms, ample garden space for
a swimming pool and a summer terrace. The main Tower is accessed via two impressive
stone staircases.
Architect plans have been created to include a complete new wing and tower with an
additional 2 bedrooms. More photos on request.
Ref.4118 Ref.4249
Make your dream of living in a French chateau a reality! Region Excideuil. Modern house with a Region Nontron. Restored farmhouse with
pool (4x8m), set by a hamlet on 6000m2 outbuildings, quietly set in a hamlet with
of land with beautiful views. Entrance, 495m2. Living room with fireplace, dining
€695,000 spacious open living area, fitted kitchen, room, fitted kitchen, larder & bathroom,
Contact details: utility, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms (1 ensuite). 3 bedrooms & WC. Barn (30m2) & car port.
+44 (0)7 973 173 561 Price: €269,000 agency fees included. Price: €97,000 agency fees included.
info@trouquette.com
www.trouquette.com www.immobilier-dordogne.com
89
Tour de Clefs Immobilier
Reduced
From €125,000 39,900€ (Agency fees included) 74,900€ FAI (Agency fees included)
To €105,000
Ref: 7058 Ref: 7134

FANCY A BARN CONVERSION? DOG WALKER’S PARADISE
Detached stone barn with outline planning permission. The ‘cutest’ detached stone cottage with 110 m² of living
Good solid walls & roof. An excellent project. space 50 m² sitting/dining room & fitted kitchen, original
Water & electric meters installed. Set in 1400 m² of fireplace with log-burning stove & 2 large bedrooms. Some
garden with country views. Just 5 mins from the local finishing touches required. Detached double garage & ½ an
town and all amenities. acre of enclosed garden. Edge of a quiet hamlet.
89,900€ (Agency fees included) 99,900€ (Agency fees included)

Charming 19th century fisherman’s cottage in rose granite, nestling by the church. Erquy has
many port side restaurants reputed for its scallops and offers 9 sandy beaches with rock pools,
water sports and a protected heather covered headland with dramatic views and walking. Less
than 1 hour’s drive from the ferry port at St Malo and Dinard airport. Parking is plentiful.
The house has character features including original staircase and wooden floors, well
decorated throughout in Farrow & Ball. It comes comfortably furnished with many antiques
and fully equipped (including new heating) – a perfect “lock-up-and-go” holiday home.
0783 110 6518 Or 01386 438 860

Ref: 6827 Ref: 7039
clare.bend@agrii.co.uk
ON THE VILLAGE GREEN FREE RANGE!
A charming detached stone property. Sitting room with Detached stone farmhouse with nearly 200 m² of living space,
fireplace & exposed beams & open plan kitchen. Second 2 reception rooms, kitchen, 3 bedrooms, office. Veranda and
reception room and two bedrooms. Possible to create attic suitable to convert. New roof. Numerous outbuildings
further rooms in the attic. Enclosed courtyard and including stables, barns & animal sheds. Set in nearly 2 acres of
lawned garden. Unique setting - ideal holiday home. land and possible to buy further land if required.
64 ave de la République 16260 CHASSENEUIL

Tel : 0033 5 45 37 69 90 | reception@tourdeclefs.com
VISIT OUR NEW WEBSITE: www.tourdeclefs.fr
FOR SALE
In Normandy (80 minutes drive from port of
Caen or 40 minutes drive from Cherbourg).
3 bed bungalow + 2 bed gite (or self
contained granny annex fully furnished) +
nearly 2 acres of beautiful garden.
176,000€
To receive full colour brochure
by email contact Mike
digprin@aol.com
or phone +33 (0)233 439 047
www.richardimmo.com
To advertise on these
pages please call
CARCASSONNE HOUSE
FOR SALE 01242 216099
Stone built detached house in quaint village
10 mins from Carcassonne and La citè. or email us on
4 double bedrooms, 3 en suites, family
bathroom, swimming pool. Adjoining barn
classified@livingfrance.com Hundreds of properties in DORDOGNE or LOT et GARONNE
with rental potential, partly renovated.
For more details contact www.completefrance.com 7 rue du Château 47410 Lauzun
marycks@blueyonder.co.uk and click on ‘advertising’ Tel: 05 53 83 30 46
€250.000
90
A greater selection
of French properties
than ever before
Whether you’re looking for a cottage in Normandy, a mountain
chalet or a new-build apartment on the coast, your improved France
Property Shop has a property and location to suit all tastes
BETTER
FASTER
SIMPLER
IMAGE: ©Everest8848|Dreamstime.com
Go to www.francepropertyshop.com for thousands more properties for sale
Bouzic, Dordogne Charente, Nouvelle Aquitaine Hérault, Occitanie

Lovely stone house in a tranquil setting on a This house is stunning, sitting proudly on its hill This house is the ideal holiday home in one of the
meander of the River Dordogne. 2/3 bedrooms, an surveying the parc surrounding it and way beyond. most scenic settings in the Parc Natural du Haut
attractive garden and swimming pool. This property Fully renovated in 2010. Spacious and light with Languedoc. Built on 3 levels, with 2 cellars, 3
is not far from Domme and is surrounded by it’s full oil fired central heating. Double glazed bedrooms, a large living room with fitted kitchen, one
own land, which is composed of attractive windows and doors throughout. bathroom and one shower room, each with toilet,
gardens and woodland. Just 10 minutes from Angouleme. attic with two rooms, all for a surface of 115m2.
250,000 € 505,000 € 142,500 €
Calvados, Normandy Vendée, Pays de la Loire Deux-Sèvres, Nouvelle Aquitaine

Good flat land and lovely views. Not overlooked, This is a beautiful property, ready to walk in to Detached stone farmhouse is a hamlet near to
and a short drive to nearby village with shop, bar/ with a large back garden including pool, barbeque Chef Boutonne offering spacious accommodation
restaurant, schools etc. 10 minutes from market town area, pond and even a boules pitch at the back with 4/5 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and lovely private
of Vire. Ready to go to create a good Holiday Let with room to spare. There are also rooms that can gardens. Large barn divided into two sections, open
business as well as a family home. Large workshop be renovated to make the home larger or possibly hangar, and private garden. 5 minutes from Chef
areas, barn etc still to be developed if you require. add a small gite. Boutonne with its bars, restaurants and market.
255,000 € 318,000 € 180,200 €
Deux-Sèvres, Nouvelle Aquitaine Dordogne, Nouvelle Aquitaine Dordogne, Nouvelle Aquitaine

Detached farmhouse in impeccable condition with Superb modern home with swimming pool. This Traditional stone house, beautifully restored and
stunning natural swimming pool and land. Three beautiful contemporary dwelling, offering 260m2 of comes with a stone annexe containing a studio.
double bedrooms each with wooden floors and living space, boasts high quality fixtures and fittings There are 2 living rooms, 2 kitchens and several
large windows. Large cellar under the house, large both inside and outside. 2 bedrooms on ground bedrooms. Stone walls, exposed beams, large
stone barn, well insulated office area, large storage floor and a master bedroom on the first floor. Pool bathroom and vaulted cellar. 30 minutes from
area, and garage with parking for several cars. house with shower, double garage and annexe. Brive-Souillac airport and 15 minutes from Sarlat.
315,000 € 590,000 € 435,000 €
NEW AND IMPROVED SITE
www.francepropertyshop.com
and make sure to SIGN UP for our weekly newsletter
Dordogne, Nouvelle Aquitaine Pacy-sur-Eure, Eure, Normandy Le Tertre-Saint-Denis, Yvelines

Comprising of a main house and a large gite, this Spacious living/dining room, fitted kitchen, south- Superb property located in a small village 3km from
home provides a lounge/living room with fireplace, facing terrace, bar room, utility room, WC and Breval. Living/dining room with feature fireplace, 3
a fitted kitchen and 3 bedrooms. The gite offers vaulted cellar. First floor: 2 large bedrooms and bedrooms, a study, 2 dressing rooms, bathroom
a lounge/living room, a kitchen and 2 bedrooms. 2 bath/shower rooms. Second floor: 2 further with WC and shower room with WC. There is a
Beautiful swimming pool, large terrace and several bedrooms and a games room. Garage with guest house with shower room and WC, and a barn
stone outbuildings. Only 15 minutes from Sarlat. mezzanine storage, summer kitchen and jacuzzi. set in landscaped grounds with a swimming pool.
449,000 € 396,000 € 450,000 €
Mathenay, Jura, Burgundy Corrèze, Nouvelle Aquitaine Corrèze, Nouvelle Aquitaine

This exceptional property consists of a house with Beautifully renovated group of stone houses and Lovely Maison de Maître with American style
a large living room, fireplace, kitchen and cellar, a barns, surrounded by over three acres of lovely kitchen and 4 bedrooms. The roof spaces are
dining room. First floor: 3 attic rooms, a bathroom parkland, including an established chestnut plantation converted and offer an additional scope for extra
and a toilet. Restored barn with a double garage as and a fruit orchard. There is a huge swimming pool volume if required. Pretty garden and heated
well as an upstairs room with kitchenette, bathroom with poolside cabin and BBQ area. The whole pool with counter current, all beautifully set on
and loft room. Entérée pool and pool house. property is totally secluded and quite stunning! around 4+ hectares of land.
384,800 € 367,500 € 325,000 €
Théoule sur Mer Gers, Occitanie Donnay, Calvados

Open kitchen, living room, toilet, terrace with sea Country house with 1ha of land and woods in a This traditional two bed detached cottage is just
views. Upstairs: one bedroom with balcony and quiet area with no passing traffic on a hillside, a few miles from the delightful market town of
panoramic sea view, a shower room with toilet. 3 kms from amenities and 70 kms from Toulouse. Thury-Harcourt and only 30mins from the ferry port
Communal pool, closed garage, sunscreen, electric This house can be arranged as a big family home at Caen. The property has lovely views, a pretty
blinds, automatic watering, low monthly charges. or divided in two separate parts. The buildings are garden and adjoining barn. It also has an excellent
Located within walking distance of the beach. organized around a courtyard and the garden. letting track record.
299,000 € 249,000 € 122,500 €
NORMANDY 50 OCCITANIE
WEST COAST AUDE
Centrally located in the heart of the
Nr Carteret / Jersey / Cherbourg Ferry. Minervois our beautifully restored 18c
Traditional stone house. 3 bedrooms, coaching inn with flower filled courtyard
2 ensuite, kitchen/diner, lounge, fully garden and a swimming pool offers flexible
furnished, modernised, heating, accommodation for all your needs. Contact Highly
country near towns & coast. us for further details and special offers. recommended
’s
• B&B €85 for 2; €120-135 for 4 on James Martin
“French
• Extra bed €20
Adventure”
• Dinner from €25 per person
• Weekly self-catered lets from €1,750 p/w
Holiday from £320 to £420 pw Contact: Valerie and Mike Slowther
Tel: 01728 688309 Tel: 0033 (0) 4 68 91 69 29
Email: norman.maison@gmail.com Email: mike@levieuxrelais.net
Web: www.normanmaison.co.uk
SHORT & LONG TERM LET www.levieuxrelais.net
AVEYRON, 12 LANGUEDOC 66
OCCITAINIE ROUSSILLON
Catalan country house surrounded by vine-
• Newly refurbished Grange to let from yards and apricot orchards with swimming
May - September pool in 6000m2 grounds. B&B accommodation
• Quite location - Sleeps six persons offered by retired chef & wife. Two ensuite
with Pool double bedrooms and one twin. Self-catering
• Close to Bastide village Villeneuve accommodation also available in a 2-bedroom
apartment and the garden house for 2.
De Aveyron
15 mins Perpignan & airport. 25 mins Medi-
terranean beaches. 1 hour Carcassonne and
Price from 1200.00 to 1500.00 euros
Beziers. 1.5 hrs Montpellier & Girona airport
per week
(Spain). Ideally placed for house hunting.
For further details and information pack
contact Natasha Tel 0619487312 Tel/Fax: 0033 468 64 97 54
Email: kevinmaggie@orange.fr
E mail natasha.bull@wanadoo.fr SELF-CATERING www.perpignanaccommodation.com B&B, SHORT & LONG TERM LETS
OCCITANIE, TARN 81 LOTETGARONNE 47

Luxury French Stone House with Fabulous
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swimming pool, set in peaceful rolling
Villa Rudel is set in a peaceful location,
countryside within its own five acres of
surrounded by vineyards and sunflowers.
woodland and garden, and yet within a
Full of character with many original
few minutes’ drive of a medieval market
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town offering all facilities. It’s the perfect
facilities and mod cons Sleeps 8 (+2) and
retreat for those seeking peace and
features 4 large double, air-conditioned,
tranquillity. An ideal base for walking,
en-suite bedrooms; large private pool;
cycling or visiting the beautiful Bastide
WiFi; several outside terraces and an
exercise room.
villages nearby; such as Pujols-le-Haut and
Penne d’Agenais.
Prices from £2,000 p/w
Contact Juliet at:
Email: rudelvillafrance@gmail.com www.lotvalleycottage.co.uk
Tel: 0033 (0)5 63 53 33 40 Email: lotvalleycottage@outlook.com
www.villarudel.com
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In next month
NORTHERN STAR BUILDING BLOCKS
Coastal resorts, dramatic scenery and a What you need to know when
special celebration in Seine-Maritime renovating a French property
FOOD FOR THOUGHT THE SURVEY SAYS

At home with the expats who hosted chef Understanding the legalities of property
James Martin during his French adventure surveys and diagnostic reports
PARADISE FOUND EXPERT ADVICE

ÉTRETAT, SEINE-MARITIME © DREAMSTIME
How one couple transformed a ruin in Up-to-date tax, currency and legal advice
Provence into a stunning retreat as well as the latest property news
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Simply enter the special code: L42F3
Pucker up
Should you faire la bise or just shake
hands? When Gillian Harvey greets
her neighbours, she often finds herself
faltering in that moment of deliberation
A
round this time of year, street and beaming a ‘hello’ would have
more discerning nostrils been regarded with suspicion or confusion.
can pick up signs of the And if they’d tried to kiss me, I’d probably
approaching summer: have called the police.
cherry blossoms sprinkle Here, although I still suffer from
local trees, the aroma of fresh coffee traditional British reticence, I am getting
teases the senses from outdoor café tables, more used to the familiarity of proffered
and even the air smells different – as if bisous – although the other day I did find
sunshine itself has a perfume. myself uttering the words: “Quick, into
Walking down to the local high street, the house or that man’s going to want to
as well as the few resilient ladies who kiss mummy.”
totter up and down the hill with their It’s not the kissing bit itself that has me sense of inclusion. Old and young alike
baguettes whatever the weather, I see floored, but knowing whether or not to greet each other with ease and interest.
toddlers tripping along at the end of their ‘go for it’. I’ve found with some there’s a And it’s wonderfully baffling to me that
mothers’ arms, workers stopping to chat window of opportunity, after which you’ll my daughter – whose school often takes
together in the spring sunshine and even probably be offered a handshake instead, classes to the local gallery, library or to
the odd tourist, arms full of local produce which can feel a bit like a consolation sing at the old folks’ home – seems to
from the market. prize. Others have no such problem, know everyone. Wherever we go, people
One thing that stands out here is the particularly the aforementioned gentleman greet her by name and I’m left asking,
fact that everyone seems to have time to who grabs my shoulders and wetly smacks “Who’s that?”.
stop for a quick chat – something that can me on each cheek whenever we pass in Here, too, the high street is very much
be infuriating when you’re waiting in a the street. alive. My town of 2,000 inhabitants is
queue at the boulangerie, but which most That said, during a recent French also home to two pharmacies (of course),
of the time is heart-warming. I may not lesson, I was informed that my minor three boulangeries (naturally), four
know the names of all the people I pass, mispronunciation of merci beaucoup meant tabacs, five restaurants and several little
but their cheery “bonjours” and ready that I was saying ‘thank you, nice bottom’ boutique clothing and jewellery stores.
smiles remind me that here there is a real instead of ‘thank you very much’. Which The French seem very loyal to one another
sense of community. could explain my apparent popularity... and support local businesses as a matter
Back in my old stomping ground of As well as having a thriving community, of course. And I try – as far as my inner
Hertfordshire, strangers passing you in the my small town in Limousin has a real bargain hunter will allow – to join them.
Because, since moving to France,
I’ve learned the value of a close-knit
community, have become more attuned to
my surroundings and have tried to adopt a
more relaxed attitude to life.
And this season, I am determined
to shake off the British awkwardness
and exchange greetings the French way
without hesitation.
Although I’ll try to stop complimenting
everyone’s derrière.
ILLUSTRATION © ANDY ROBERT DAVIES
Gillian Harvey is a freelance writer

who has lived in Limousin for six
years, together with husband Ray
and their five young children

Living France April 2017

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IL NG TO

How three couples are making the most of a move across

café recommendations on my next trip, which may also include

Laura Habgood Adam Jacot de Boinod Stephanie Sheldrake

completefrance.com April 2017 Living France 3

Living France Living France, Cumberland House, Oriel Road,

your way Tel: 01242 216050

format of choice: Estelle Iles: 01242 216002 / estelle.iles@archant.co.uk

digital together. Visit

BUY a single copy and have it pinterest.com/ instagram.com/

use the code L42F3 and

4 Living France April 2017 completefrance.com

How the beauty of the Cévennes National Park

42 WORK TO LIVE maison de maître in Landes combined French

6 Living France April 2017 completefrance.com

8 Living France April 2017 completefrance.com

News & events

The first of many Through the tulips Hop to it!

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT

10 Living France April 2017 completefrance.com

In with the old

Whether you’re in the market for some

completefrance.com April 2017 Living France 11

PARIS ONLY HAS ONE STOP SIGN NEW TRAM LINE

THE NEW PARIS 2020. Linking Nice airport with the

other drivers and pedestrians.

12 Living France April 2017 completefrance.com

Make your favourite Francophile a very happy

completefrance.com April 2017 Living France 13

14 Living France April 2017 completefrance.com

Dream property... Every so often we come across a property that knocks

16 Living France April 2017 completefrance.com

See these and lots more on our

18 Living France April 2017 completefrance.com

I didn’t realise the French healthcare

Self-catering holiday accommodation also available.

For further information please contact:

completefrance.com April 2017 Living France 19

20 Living France April 2017

What also brings people to the region

THESE PAGES: LAMAX/FOTOLIA; STUDIONATURE.COM-PER; SIGURCAMP/THINKSTOCK; EMMA RAWLE

22 Living France April 2017 completefrance.com

completefrance.com April 2017 Living France 23

the ‘pilgrimage’ to feel close to nature “reasonable”, according to Terry, but

non-effort, as required. be very expensive.”

particular traditional farming methods, live here.”

24 Living France April 2017 completefrance.com

The only French

completefrance.com April 2017 Living France 25

How much would you pay for:

completefrance.com April 2017 Living France 27

Lozère: on the market

€88,700 €109,900 €260,000

1 Situated 15 minutes from the

€290,000 €498,500 €1,095,000

4 Close to Ste-Enimie and bordering the

28 Living France April 2017 completefrance.com

Lozère: Peace and quiet

30 Living France April 2017 completefrance.com

to Marjoleine, ‘If you say yes, we’ll go for

completefrance.com April 2017 Living France 31

32 Living France April 2017

April 2017 Living France 33

a book, and this month sees the publication