THE SOCIO-POLITICAL EDITION

WHO DOES
FEMINISM EMPOWER

HOW SWEDEN IS RAISING

A NEW GENERATION OF
FREE THINKERS

GENDER-NEUTRAL
IS THE NEW BLACK

12
 Letter from
the Editor
ADMIN

founder Bobbi Alexandra

fashion editor Nigel Case Dear Readers,
art director Ryan Asher
copy editor Marnie Gomez As life changes we all find
ourselves changing with it.
Whether it be our daily routines,
cover designer Leo Morgan diet, and habits, or things much
illustrators Alberto Manguel, Zachary Faust, larger such as our relationships,
Anri Yamazu our identities, or our political
environment, we as humans are
constantly changing. Never have
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creative director Laetitia Orsetti be changing.

Now more than ever do we need to

writers Anjaji Jhangiani, Morwenna focus on what is going on in the
Ferrier, Madhur Tanka, Anna world of gender and politics. No
Leach, Nathalie Rothschild longer can we remain ignorant on
these topics because these topics
photographers AnRong Torres, Daniel Xu, Patrick guide not only our individual
Pierce, Yenny Owen, Mengwen Khan lives, but also our society,
our culture, and our norms.
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-Bobbie Alexandra
Contents
The Socio–Political Edition
April 2017

Traveler: How Designer: The Swedes Trendsetter: Androgyny’s

Phuket, Feminism is Charles are Pecking Going Back Next Top
We’re Going Destroying Jeffrey Away at to the Basics Models
to Thailand the ‘Real Man’ Gender–
Norms

5-12 13-24 23-28 29-42 43-46 47-54

 Phuket,
traveler
We’re Going
to Thailand
written by
Anjaji Jhangiani
photographed by

AnRong Torres

There is nothing like

throwing yourself into an
entirely different culture

5–6
from your own. Navigating
your way through new and
diverse landscapes while
picking apart and
decoding the languages is
an experience that cannot
be explained. Whether you
are ordering food from an
everyday street cart, or
throwing yourself into the
middle of the dance floor,
you seek to be a part of
something you are not.
 Alternatively, running an errand can have the same
effect. Getting the Filipino tailor in Kota Kinabalu
to take up your new jeans or trying to buy a handful
of almonds rather than a kilogram from a market
vendor in Turin will give you the same buzz.

Whether it’s a barber at a train station in Bangkok,

where your hundred baht bill goes into a machine
in exchange for a ticket for your haircut and the

7–8
clippers are attached to a vacuum cleaner to clean as
you preen; or getting a Mani-Pedi by the “solo hablo
Espanol” Chinese lady in Buenos Aires–the experience
of interacting with locals, as comical as it may seem
for both parties, will make you feel alive. Alterna-
tively, running an errand can have the same effect.
Getting the Filipino tailor in Kota Kinabalu to take
up your new jeans or trying to buy a handful of
almonds rather than a kilogram from a market vendor
in Turin will give you the same buzz.

Phuket, We’re Going to Thailand

QUICK INFO
BEST TIME TO TRAVEL
The best period to visit Thailand
is between November and February,
when the weather conditions are
excellent and the country is
comparatively dry. If you are a
beach lover, you could enjoy a
festive tanning day in one of
the numerous crystal–clear water
beaches of Thailand. Or, take a
winter break anytime you feel like
getting some hotter moments.
CUISINE
THE BASICS
Although Thai food is pretty
common throughout the US, you
won’t find much of it here in
Phuket. Since Phuket is a tourist
destination you are going to find
lots of international foods ranging
from Japanese, Chinese, Korean,
Lebanese, Turkish, and Persian. If
you search hard enough you will
find some decent Thai food, but
don’t expect it to be as easy to
find as it is throughout the rest
of Thailand.
Phuket, We’re Going to Thailand
CURRENCY
The official currency in Thailand
is the Thai Baht. One Thai Baht
equals £0.023, $0.028 or €0.027.
Costs are low compared to Europe
and the US. The affordable prices
in Thailand will allow you to
explore the country and its local
culture as much as possible. With
these prices, don’t be afraid to
plan a long trip to Thailand.
FLOATING RESTAURANTS
Phuket is known for its floating
restaurants. If you want to truly
eat like a local then these are
the places to go. Since they are
usually located floating in large
bodies of water the only way to get
to one is by speedboat. Cuisine on
these islands vary greatly as long
as you like an array of seafoods
that are super fresh since the
restaurants are located directly
next to a fish farm.
LGBTI+ FRIENDLY
Although LGBTI are fully accepted
in Thailand, you’d be wise to avoid
kissing in public, since it can be
poorly–received, for both gay and
straight couples. But in general,
Thailand is a very friendly country
for all kinds of travelers. Gay
bars, bathhouses, and saunas can
be found throughout the island but
they are most common in Patong.
STREET FOOD
Although you are not going to find
much authentic cuisine here, you
will still find a ton of street
vendors. Whether it be day or
night, at the beach, the market,
or roadside, you will find a vendor.
These vendors come in all shapes
in sizes ranging from stainless
steel carts to rattan baskets to
motorbike side carts to
fruit vendors.
ACTIVITIES
BEACHES
There are so many beaches in
Phuket. Although there are no
designated LGBTI beaches, the
beaches in Patong are probably
where the most LGBTI people will
be. There you will see beach
resorts, bars, and clubs flying
rainbow pride flags since Patong
is the most LGBTI friendly place
in Phuket.
ACCOMMODATIONS
RESORTS
There a hundreds of all inclusive
hotels and resorts in Phuket. Head
to any of them in Patong and you
will be directly in the middle
of LGBTI nightlife. Or, stay near
the beach and have ocean access
at the palm of your hands. If you
find yourself staying with an extra
guest for the night just be sure
to let the concierge know because
there is usually a small extra
guest fee per night.
MASSAGES
Thailand is most notable for its
massage industry. Almost anywhere
you go in Thailand you will find a
massage parlor. Not only are they
common but they are also some of
the best around the world. Make
sure the parlor is air conditioned
and has wifi because no matter what
treatment you get, you will most
likely be there for at least an
hour.
B&BS
Don’t want to stay at a resort? No
problem! For every resort there
are double the amount of bed &
breakfasts. Most of which are
owned by ex–pats from the United
States. Most B&Bs are also very
accommodating to foreign travelers
in terms of checking in and out as
long as you are respectable. This
option is best for travelers who
want to experience all that Phuket
has to offer.
ISLAND TOURS
Phuket is close to so many tropical
islands such as Koh Phi Phi,
Maya Bay, and Kai Island. Better
yet, you can save on packages
that will provide speedboat
transportation to each island, your
own personal tour guide, lunch,
and even snorkeling equipment.
These bundles are also relatively
inexpensive and usually cost around
$60 per person.
HOSTELS
If you come to Phuket without a
lot of money or you are planning
on just using your accommodations
for sleep and a quick rinse then
hostels are the most cost effective
option for you. Most hostels
usually sleep several people in
one room with bunks and a personal
storage locker, but if you look
hard enough, you might be lucky
enough to find one that offers a
two–person room with separate full
sized–beds.
M E RCU RY
CUSTOMS

BUDDHIST
Based on Buddhist beliefs, the head
is the most valued part of the
body while the feet are the lowest,
symbolizing attachment to the
ground, a cause of human suffering.
Touching someone’s head is highly
offensive, as is raising your feet
or pointing them at people or
religious objects.
DRESS
Shoes are to be removed before
entering homes and religious
structures. Most types of attire
are tolerated in areas frequented
by tourists. It is a good idea,
however, to cover up when visiting
temples and shrines. Those wearing
sleeveless tops, short skirts,
shorts, and flip flops may be
denied entrance.

WOMEN
It is not unusual to encounter
signs prohibiting women from
entering highly sacred places,
such as temple libraries. Women
who wish to worship do so outside
the buildings. Also, while it is
taboo for a woman to touch a monk
or pass things to him directly,
polite conversation is fine.
PRIDE
Thailand has a constitutional
monarchy and are very proud of
their royal family. Any insult
to them can result in legal
prosecution. Thailand is also
very nationalistic and plays the
anthem twice a day, requiring all
individuals to stop what they are
doing out of respect.

SEX

11–12
Sex work is not legal in Thailand but it a promising and fulfilling
career for many. Just be make sure that the other person is over 18 years
of age and is consenting. Although the legal age of consent to sex in
Thailand is 15 years of age, most hotel concierges will not allow anyone
without an ID proving that they are 18 years of age into the rooms with
travelers. If you are bringing someone home you should know that most
hotels will charge a small overnight guest fee.

Just as you would tip a masseuse or a bartender it is common courtesy

to tip escorts for things like socialization at bars and taking you out
to sightsee. Escorts are not only great for sex but they can also help
you with navigating throughout Phuket, talking to locals, and hailing
taxis. Most Thai employees in tourist clubs are working escorts and will
have no problem setting up an arrangement with you. When setting up an
arrangement make sure the terms are laid out in order to avoid hassle
later on.

Just remember, although this is vacation for you, this is an honest

living to these individuals.

Thailand is a beautiful country and there is too much to experience,

say, and describe that would do it justice. The best way is to go out
and experience it for yourself. Although Phuket is one of the most LGBTI
friendly areas in Thailand, the entire country is a safe getaway for us.
So buy your ticket, pack your bags, and just say Phuket.

T O S E E O U R T R AV E L S F O L L OW U S O N
Phuket, We’re Going to Thailand I N S TAG R A M AT M E R C U R Y M AG
written by
Madhur Tanka
illustrated by

Alberto Manguel

How
Feminism
is Destroying
the ‘Real Man’

Feminism
is Just Too
Dangerous
 You’re walking down the street, coffee in one
hand and briefcase in the other, minding your
own business. The sun is out, you hear the
birds chirping, and you might even see an
ice-cream man giving out free ice cream to
the children in the neighborhood. You’re in
euphoria right now. That is until you see her
walking towards you.
With her unkempt hair, big, raspy teeth,
arched back with her chin held up to the sky
you instantly know who she is. She is walking
towards you faster and faster. You think
about crossing the street to avoid her but you
know it is too late. She has already seen you
and she has locked down on her next target.
Faster and faster you see this brute woman
coming towards you. This mass shrouded in a
plaid, pleated skirt down to her ankles and
tartan jacket you recognize exactly who she
is. She is much, much closer and you begin to
brace yourself. Your legs start to quiver and
you begin to feel the rush of anxiety as she
is about to pass you. Before you realize it
you two have locked eyes just before you pass
each other and that is when she yells, “THIS
IS THE TIME TO SUPPORT WOMAN SUFFRAGE.” You
are thrown into a panic. You have just been
insulted, attacked, and victimized by this
How Feminism is Destroying the ‘Real Man’
harpy. How could anyone in the entire world
attack and unsuspecting person with so much
hate? Only someone of pure evil with absolute
hatred in their heart could do something so
vile. Only the angry feminist could be
so heartless.
For decades now feminists have been labeled
as “man-hating feminazis who cannot find a man
to marry them so they want to rid the world
of the male species.” They are usually given
this description by people who feel that their
power-dynamic, beliefs and ideals, and their
identities are being challenged. Since the
beginning of the first women’s suffrage confer-
ence in 1854 at Seneca Falls, women have been
challenging the status quo of their targeted
roles in society. Whenever these roles are
questioned women were instantly labeled as
people who hate their families, have vendet-
tas against the male species, and want men to
be submissive to them. Although feminism is
defined as the equality of the sexes many still
see it as the change in the power structure
resulting in women controlling men. Despite
this thought being completely hypocriti-
cal because it basically recognizes that men
currently benefit from the power system at
large, it also denies equality based on this
recognition. This change instills fear in
many men because it challenges the standards
set and lived by societies for the last few
thousand years.
On a basic level this equality challenges the
everyday standards in which most men live
by. Jobs have become more competitive since
the influx of women into the workplace, which
means men need more qualifications, talents,
and experience than just being a man in order
to qualify for a job. If they get the job they
also cannot have fun anymore since they now
need to be mindful of what they say and how
they act in order to avoid those pesky sexual
assault cases. Fathers, once able to come home
from work, relax, and have a social life are
now expected to share the domestic duties of
home life by cleaning the house, takeing care
of the kids, and cooking meals. Who would have
guessed doing their fair share around their
own home would be such a drag? Today it is like
men are not even recognized or automatically
valued. No longer are they automatically seen
as strong, intellectual, or funny. The every-
day life of man has completely changed in just
a few decades and compared to the thousands of
years of unchallenged norms, that is just
too fast.
A lot of men feel this movement is infring-
ing upon their rights because it is making
men more responsible while stripping them of
most of their privileges. This means that they
have to bake their cake but they don’t get to
eat it too. Although this change sounds rough
it is actually beneficial to most men. Since
feminism focuses on the empowerment of women
by including them and identifying them as
15–16
similar qualities of men, it also reduces the
hyper-masculinization that many men face in
society. By equaling the playing fields per se.
feminism reduces the role of the ‘Real Man’ or
the ideal vision of what men should be. Defined
by society, men are supposed to be super
strong, super smart, and super attractive to
women in order to be deemed as the ‘real man’.
Any deviation from this standard results in
being ridiculed and mocked, by the very men
who fall prey to these impossible to achieve
standards, for being too girly. As feminism
increases and women start doing the same
things as men it begins to raise concerns in
men because it leaves them to be more vulnera-
ble to being classified as a girl.
Although some men may feel their rights are
being infringed upon by feminism the movement
has no intentions of creating a new power
hierarchy. Since the movement focuses on the
equality of the sexes feminists plan on doing
just that, ensuring that no one is restricted
from doing things based on their genders. This
is beneficial to not only women but also to men
and gender-neutral individuals.
M E RCU RY
 Men have been severely restricted from doing
things they enjoy based on the heavy standards
of masculinity. The odd thing is these
standards were created and upheld by the same
people they restrict. Men are susceptible to
toxic masculinity created by other men. If
someone is not independent, lacking emotion,
aggressive, competitive, strong, self-confi-
dent, and sexually aggressive then they are
not classified as masculine, and if someone
who identifies as male is not perceived as
masculine then their identity is in danger.
This fear in being classified in not masculine
contributes to some men developing toxic-mas-
culinity resulting in an over-performance in
masculine qualities. This in turn can have
dangerous results to the health of men who
have these performance issues. Toxic-mas-
culinity can lead to depression, identity
issues, and relationship problems that can
then result in alcoholism, workaholism, and
even violence. Overall there a high problems
that can result in relationship issues due to
extreme violence, abuse, lack of communica-
tion, and ability to process emotion. These
results can be even more significant based on
individual’s race and class.
Since feminism is fighting to remove the
gender barrier in order to allow individuals
to do what ever they want, it is perfect for
individuals who are gender-neutral. Feminism
not only empowers women to do what they want
and make their own choices, but it empowers
How Feminism is Destroying the ‘Real Man’
everyone, regardless of gender, to do what
they want. Feminism is not disrupting the
patriarchy in order to replace it with a matri-
archy. Feminism is disrupting the patriarchy
in order to replace it with egalitarianism,
the political belief that both men, women, and
anyone on the spectrum between these polar
forces are all equal.
Many people are still skeptical of this
relation and still firmly believe that
feminism is about overthrowing “the Man.”
Today, the stories of the teenage girl
entering a boy’s sports team defying the odds,
a woman entering a stereotypical man’s career,
and women defying the odds and entering a
male-dominated hobby such as auto-mechanics
or wood-working are all so common. All of
these stories help feed the ignorance that
feminism is allowing women to do whatever they
want and men are getting short-changed. After
centuries of oppression how dare women get
some more choices, am I right? Regardless, it
is now becoming fairly common in which the
roles are reversed. Men are now being allowed
into spaces that were once deemed women-
only. Jaden Smith, model and actor, has become
one of Louis Vuitton’s first male models, and
although Smith takes this role he is working it
with a more gender-neutral vibe. Jaden proudly
wears skirts, dresses, blouses, etc. to show
that Louis Vuitton is no longer
holding itself to the strict regime that
they are only in the female fashion industry.
Another example is the Girl Scouts of America
who have recently altered their guidelines not
restricting the organization to just girls.
This allows children who are more interested
in participating in events sponsored by the
Girl Scouts to participate in those events
freely. The same also applies to the Boy
Scouts of America.
No matter what you think, believe, or hear,
and no matter how harsh, scary, or traumatic
the word, “feminist” is, it is still a word
that advocates for the human rights of all.
Feminism is not scary. Feminism is not about
destroying men. Feminism does not mean that
every woman is a lesbian. And it certainly
does not mean that everyone must be the
same and make the same decisions as everyone
else. Feminism means that every has equal
rights, everyone can make choices whether or
not the choice is the same, and that everyone
has the same opportunity as the next person.
Unlike the system we have today, Feminism does
not control gender-norms. It is not swapping
stereotypical male roles with stereotypical
female roles. It is giving everyone the
opportunity to take on any roles they want to.
17–18
So, to the “real man,” you are not becoming
any lesser than your female counterparts,
you are becoming equal. And if you cannot
deal with that, then please isolate yourself
from the rest of the world because change is
necessary for society to thrive.
M E RCU RY
 19–20
“feminist’ is, it is still a word
that advocates for the human
rights of all.”

How Feminism is Destroying the ‘Real Man’ M E RCU RY

 the suffragette
1903—1920
Suffragettes were members of
women’s organizations in the late-
19th and early-20th centuries which
advocated the extension of the
“franchise,” or the right to vote
in public elections, to women. It
particularly refers to militants in
Feminism
the United Kingdom such as members
of the Women’s Social and Political
Union (WSPU). Suffragist is a more
general term for members of the
Throughout
suffrage movement.
the Ages the riveter
1940—1945
With the decrease in men due to
being drafted and sent overseas,
women were being quickly added
to the workforce. Women were
now being expected to leave
the home and work in factories,
14
60– –1561
hospitals, and offices in order
to keep society moving. Without
these womens’ help, society would
Ever since the Suffragettes at Seneca Falls feminism has
have came to a standstill and
taken on many forms, shapes, and sizes. Throughout the
the United States would not have
ages feminism has empowered women to be who they want
defeated the Axis.
to be, do what they want to do, and carry on with their lives.
Feminism has fueled some of the most iconic looks in history,
ranging from Rosie the Riveter to the 90s punk girl. Without
feminism, this world would not have the multitude of
cultures that have risen because of it.
the post – wwii woman
1950—1960
The 1950s occurred between the
first and second waves of feminism.
However, despite the lack of
organized advocacy, the actions
of feminists during this decade
resulted in major gains for women
in later years. The road for
legalized reproductive rights was
in its first stages, continuing to
enter the workplace, the release of
the “Feminine Mystique”, and more
and more women joining the Civil
Rights Movement characterized
this movement.
How Feminism
How Feminism is
is Destroying
Destroying the
the ‘Real
‘Real Man’
Man’
the second – waver
1960s—1970s
The 1960s brought along a new
wave of feminism that sought to
end workplace inequality. These
feminists wanted access to better
jobs and equal pay through anti–
discrimination laws. Add on the
Civil Rights Movement and the
Animal Rights Movement, and the
creation of the intellectual, rebel
protester is born. This feminist
sought equality for all living
things and they were willing to lay
down their lives for that.
the neo – grunge
1990s
Although the second wave of
feminism introduced reproductive
rights, more women in the
workplace and into STEM careers,
along with overall more social
power, the 90’s empowered feminist
to keep the ball rolling. Feminists
were still challenging the status
quo set by the patriarchy along
with new challenges regarding
the finer things in life such as
homophobia, gender roles and
gender stereotyping, fashion,
hobbies, music tastes, and still
challenging the role of being,
“the bitch.”
the international
2000s— current
Despite still fighting to break
the glass ceiling, equal pay,
stereotypes, homophobia, racism,
and reproductive rights, feminists
have been introduced to new issues
such as freedom of religion,
transphobia, ableism, and social
class. Feminism is now taking on a
more intersectional approach and
focus on more than just the woman,
by now focusing on the woman and
what makes her different from
other women.
READ MORE CONTENT LIKE THIS
O N L I N E AT M E R C U R Y M AG . C O M
designer

Charles Jeffrey
interviewed by
Morwenna Ferrier
photographed by

AnRong Torres
styled by

Charles Jeffrey

Designer, illustrator, and

radical creative Charles
Jeffrey, originally from
Scotland, moved to London
to attend Central St.
Martins where he received
his BA in Fashion Design.
Immediately following
graduation, Jeffrey
received an internship at
Dior’s Haute Couture Atelier
in Paris. From there he
was recognized by Topman
and Fashion East’s MAN
initiative in 2015 causing
him to be invited to show
at London Fashion Week
Spring 2016.
 “This show was my response “I want to push people to “It’s a night out for fun
to uncertain futures: both a go wild and become and friends are happy to
fantastical vision and a very showstoppers.” collaborate and help
real warning.” with it.”

There on out Jeffrey has invented his own

brand and has become one of fashion’s new
odd boys. Creating his collections through
inspirations being pulled from his own
friend groups of creative collaborators
consisting of artists, performers,
musicians, poets, and drag queens, they
are reminiscent of the club scene.

While in school Charles was known for

hosting club night in East London club,
Vogue Fabrics Dalster, and it was home
to London’s club kids, drag performers,
and oddballs. Jeffrey titled the events,
“LOVERBOY” which he now fittingly calls
his runway collections. LOVERBOY hails
itself as club kid couture and focuses on
reviving the club kid culture that has been
diminishing in Londons’ gender–queer scene.
This culture focused on gender fluidity
where outfits and costumes knew no gender
boundary. Club kid culture also focused on
the DIY along with the notion of taking the
time of dressing up.

Carry on to the next page to read our exlusive

interview with Jeffrey.

the party.”
going out.” could express themselves.” to bring the magazine to
a movement: the visuals of environment where people associated with them. I want
“I can see it as being part of “My aim was to create an “I want the night to be

Designer: Charles Jeffrey M E RCU RY

 Q What do you hope society learns from the
aspect of dressing up from the Club Kid
scene?

A That was reinforced in New York by the club

kids who did it every single night. It’s
not just, ––‘oh we’ll get dressed up’ this
is work to them and they commit to it. I
hope it challenges the traditional path that
designers have to take, and their roles as
arbiters of fashion.

Q What was the significance of showing at

London Mens Fashion Week this year? How did
it differ from your first two showings?

A We wanted to show that we are not just club

kids. We’re creatives and were reacting to
the space around us. The collection is a
reaction to the current global political
climate. Much like a nightcliub, fashion can
offer much–needed escape from the reality of
the world. The definition of clubs are nights
of escapism, and we wanted to validate that
even further.”

Q What are you trying to escape from?

27–28
A With whats going on with Trump and with
Brexit, we don’t trust the media and what
people are saying, we don’t trust our
politicians, so why not commit to being in
a full fantasy? For this collection we even
thought to have a deity, we were going to
take and burn it on the runway but obviously
we weren’t allowed to do that.

Q Sounds like you’re trying to push the

boundaries of Menswear?

A Moving forward, I want to push what it

means to be a classic British brand in every
possible sense. Gender politics in terms
of mens fashion is always changing. We as
designers are not synced to the mainstream
and thoughts of mens performance is dynamic
to what we think it should be. Club kid
culture has been diminishing in Londons’
gender–queer scene. This culture focused on
gender fluidity where outfits and costumes
knew no gender boundary. Club kid culture
also focused on the DIY along with the
notion of taking the time of dressing up. We
need more of that.

TO SEE WHO ELSE HAS BEEN

Designer: Charles Jeffrey S P O T L I G H T E D F O L L OW U S O N
T W I T T E R AT M E R C U R Y M AG
THE SWEDES Since the beginning of the Restroom

ARE PECKING Revolution, regarding the usage of bathroom

of choice for the Transgender community, the

AWAY AT debate for pronoun usage has been opened by

governments worldwide.

GENDER–NORMS

29–30
How the Swedish
School System
Adapted Itself to
be More Inclusive
written by
Madhur Tanka
illustrated by

Zachary Faust
 These debates sparked ideas of new gender
identifications whether they be based on
the cultures current list of pronouns, to
accept new ones created by the Transgender
community, or to create new ones in order
to adapt to current language systems.
Although these debates are relatively
new in countries like the United States,
France, and Japan, countries like Sweden
have already settled and come to their own
The Swedes are Pecking Away at Gender–Norms
resolutions regarding the two–gender debate.
The Swedes are iconic in terms of female
liberation since they have the highest
proportion of working women in the world,
“the government will tolerate
and they have about two-thirds of all
degrees. Although the country is far ahead
no distinction between males
in terms of gender equality, many Swedes are
still pushing for gender neutrality. Many
and females.”
want to create the standard that the Swiss
government will tolerate no distinction
M E RCU RY
 whatsoever between males and females. Not
only would this legislation legalize and
recognize individuals who do identify on
the gender binary, but it would also allow
these individuals to marry without the need
of gender identification. It would also allow
parents to respectively name their children
any name they want despite the gender of
The Swedes are Pecking Away at Gender–Norms
the child without restriction from the
government. Although this rule prevails
throughout the land, the Swedish government
is trying to accommodate this adjustment
by creating a list of 170 already existing
gender–neutral Swedish names.
The Swedes also added a new noun that
recognizes and identifies gender–neutral
individuals in their national encyclopedia.
The new word, Hen (pronounced just like the
bird), is a gender–neutral pronoun that is
the in–between of the male pronoun, Han, and
the female pronoun Hon.
In 2011, a new school, titled Egalia (latin
for equality) was created in Sweden that
would teach children in a gender–neutral
environment. Egalia does not put a focus on
the difference between genders, but rather
emphasizes a sense of democracy within the
children. Although many proponents of this
system fear that it is going to police every
M E RCU RY
 gender–fueled action the children do, it is
quite the opposite. Egalia allows children to
use whatever type of language they
want despite whether or not the language
incorporates male and female genders. If
a child says something that encourages a
gender–stereotype they are not punished, but
rather questioned as to why they said what
they said. This teaches the children not
to think that gender–stereotyping is wrong
but it builds the analytical skills as to
why they think about gender–stereotyping.
The curriculum in Egalia also heavily
focuses on gender–neutral recognition. This
curriculum helps children break down the
societal standards of certain things being
stereotyped as male or female. For example,
if the children see a firefighter most will
automatically assume that they are a man
because that is the societal expectation.
The way children play is also being regulated
in Egalia. In almost every school boys and
girls were rarely seen playing with one
another. This was highly due to certain
The Swedes are Pecking Away at Gender–Norms
play areas and activities being separated
from one another. Building blocks and cars
would almost always be together, and so
would dolls and dress–up, but these two
groupings would never be seen together.
Egalia is trying to promote and encourage
all of the children to play together by
mixing up all of these activities into one
giant activity space. Gendered toys that
were once kept separate from each other
are now strategically placed alongside each
other in order to prevent separation bias.
Not only did this result in boys and girls
playing with each other a lot more, it also
encouraged children to play with all of the
toys based on personal choice instead of on
societal expectations.
Many opposers feel like this precedent was
promoted and set by the LGBT community in
Sweden but it was also heavily supported by
the educational system. The Swedish school
system heavily supports that forcing gender
roles on children has a damaging effect
on children because it can constrain and
M E RCU RY
 that all of the children can distinguish
that they are biologically a boy or a girl,
and Egalia is not forcing change on that.
Egalia is focusing on challenging the social
constructs of gender. Egalia recognizes
the physiological differences of childrens’
genders but does not encourage sociological
differences between the two. Many opponents
The Swedes are Pecking Away at Gender–Norms
also fear that watchdog measures will be
implemented in schools that help patrol
improper behavior. This fear rises due
to certain Swedish schools restrictive
behaviors regarding the patrolling of
gender–influenced behavior. One school is
known for removing free playtime because
of common child behavior that resulted in a
social hierarchy being created that resulted
in children being excluded and bullied. This
over–watch makes many people nervous because
it begins to micromanage every single aspect
of their children’s lives that will later
affect the way they form friendships, what
hobbies they may enjoy, and overall how
they develop.
The reaction to these opponents is the same
as they have always been. Although there
is no scientific evidence that suggests
that raising children in a gender–neutral
environment is toxic to children, there
are copious amounts of scientific evidence
that supports that raising children in
a gender–biased environment is toxic to
M E RCU RY
 their overall psychological growth and
development. Raising children through gender
roles creates a boundary on them that could
alter they ways they behave psychologically,
socially, and physically. For example, many
parents will focus more time on their
crying daughter than their crying son. This
is because the parents believe that their
daughters are more sensitive than their sons
therefore they need more time and attention
to deal with their emotions. This behavior
encourages the processing and acceptance of
“real’ boys don’t cry”
their daughters emotions, which is a great
thing. Most parents then use less time to
comfort their crying sons because they
feel that they need to be thick-skinned and
tough. This lack of time to process their
emotions will begin to instill the notion
that boys feelings are unimportant and
that “real” boys do not cry. This behavior
can have life-long damaging effects on
children. Emotions are not something that
just disappear on their own and must be
expressed in order to relive them. Young
boys taught that crying and being sad is not
The Swedes are Pecking Away at Gender–Norms
okay will express these sad emotions through
other channels, more acceptable channels
for young boys, such as anger. This causes
them to grow up thinking it is acceptable
to fight, hit, and bully when they are angry.
This causes boys to grow up with this same
mindset that can result in domestic violence.
No one truly knows if raising children
in this fashion is exactly the right way
to stop the normalization of gender–
stereotyping in society since it has never
been done before, but many people do
believe it is at least a step in the right
direction. Any step that allows children,
despite of gender, sexuality, race, etc.
To grow up being who they truly are is the
right step for a more accepting future. And
despite the many opponents of this education
system, both nationally and internationally,
the waiting lists for enrollment are large,
and only one family has removed their child
from the system.
39–40
M E RCU RY

Gender
Acceptance
Across the
Globe
Although Sweden introduced the first national gender neu-
tral educational system, there are other cultures in the world
that have accepted gender-neutral and transgender identi-
ties. These civilizations are long standing so they have had
the time and experience to welcome, discuss, and accept the
different lives and identities of all individuals within
their societies.
The Swedes are Pecking Away at Gender–Norms
kou - peul look
south korea
Relationships are a big endeavor in
South Korean college towns and youthful
neighborhoods. So big, that coordinating
outfits are a common trend. Couples will
usually pair basics, like tees and sweats, or
go all out and purchase pre–designed couples
collections. Couples will usually pair clothes
for dates, vacations, and hangouts. Although
this constant matching may seem odd to
Americans, it is definitely a grand symbol of
the glorification for young love. In the United
States, youth typically put friend groups
before relationships but in South Korea, it
is the exact opposite. Add on the demand for
young love and the sharing of social media,
and this trend of spreads like wildfire.
two – spirited
native americans
Two-Spirited Native Americans pre–exist
colonialism and have existed in over 155
Native American tribes. It is the spiritual
belief that someone carries the spirits of
both male and female. These individuals were
not rejected by their tribes but they were
highly revered. Two–Spirited individuals were
not just classified as a spiritual entity, but
they were recognized as a third and fourth
gender. These people were often visionaries,
healers, medicine people, and the nannies of
the tribes.
third gender
india
Just recently, The Indian Supreme Court
acknowledged individuals who identify as
“third gender,” and has stated that everyone
must be given the right to identify their
gender as they choose. In more colloquial life,
these individuals may also identify themselves
as, “hijra,” “kothi,” “kinnar,” “shiv-shakti,”
and “aravani.” Unlike most cultures, the term
“transgender” is seldomly used to describe
individuals that are third gender because
it implies that these individuals are going
against the societal norm and breaking the
rules. These terms are typically used to
describe only individuals who were born male
and no longer identify as that. Today, these
individuals are typically employed as singers
and dancers, but before British colonization
criminalizing these individuals, they were seen
as agents of fertility and would attend births
and weddings.
genderless kei
41–42
japan
Similar to the Korean couple outfits, Kei
is more of a fashion trend than it is social
movement. The word, “Kei” translates to
“style,” and in this trend it involves boys
depicting themselves as genderless. Individuals
are seen wearing gender–neutral, gender–bent,
and gender–swapped clothing resulting in
self–identified boys wearing makeup, pastel
hair, wigs, and stereo-typed female clothing.
Although there is great debate as to whether
this is completely genderless or boys just
being kawaii (Japanese for, “cute”), no one
can determine for sure because there are
mostly likely people who practice this trend
that do identify as genderless. Either way,
the spread of the genderless kei is raising
the discussion of gender in more conservative
parts of Japan.
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trendsetter Going Back
to the Basics
written by
Anna Leach
photographed by

Daniel Xu
styled by

Michael Kampakis

As the flowers begin to

bloom and as the days get
longer it’s once again time
to update that wardrobe.
But there’s absolutely no
need to ditch everything
and refill your closet with
over-priced, “stylish”
clothes that you are only
going to wear twice. But
you should still give your
closet its yearly spring
cleaning and donate those
unwanted threads.

LEFT ABOVE

hoodie $39.90 bomber $22.90

denim $29.99 joggers $15.90
sneakers $34.99 Forever 21
ZARA
sneakers $59.99
Adidas M E RCU RY

Trendsetter: Back to the Basics
45–46
This seasons go–to’s are a throwback, so you
might already own some of these pieces and
all you need is to freshen them up. Denim is
making a comeback, especially in the
gender–neutral world. There is no doubt
that denim looks amazing on everyone. That
is a simple fact, and luckily it comes in a
million shapes, sizes, and fittings allowing
everyone to indulge. When we say denim we
also do not mean just denim jeans. We are
talking about the whole denim fantasy; denim
shirts, overalls, jorts, dresses, skirts,
everything denim. Now, some people do not
like denim everything. they’re crazy but it
is okay. For those who do not want to rock
the denim life, they can pair off their nice
pair of jeans with mid grey tops such as
RIGHT ABOVE hoodies, sweatshirts, or jerseys. Or, for an
jacket $675.00 shirt $128.00 even more relaxed look you can pair a nice
shorts $445.00 jersey $68.00 denim jacket or shirt with some grey sweats
Rad Hourani denim $328.00 or joggers.
Diesel
loafers $795.00
heels $149.00 watch $150
T O S E E M O R E T R E N D S F O L L OW U S O N
Calvin Klein Nixon I N S TAG R A M AT M E R C U R Y M AG
Androgyny’s
Next Top
Models
written by
Nathalie Rothschild
photographed by

Yenny Owen

“Believing in yourself is
the biggest gift you can
give yourself.”

The Rise of
Gender–Fluidity
in the Fashion
Industry

Tom Ford once said, “Real Fashion change
comes from real changes in real life.
Everything else is just decoration.”
The fashion industry is one of the most
impressive two-way highways any industry
has ever seen. The industry does not
control the trends any more than the people
do. Together, they influence one another in
order to create the extraordinary.
“Many modeling agencies in
the nation feel it is too early
for society to incorporate
that kind of representation.”
As people and as society change so does
fashion. Once fashion takes the lead set
by the people it helps ignite the rest of
society. Once society becomes ignited it
sets ablaze to new trends and new thoughts.
As society begins to accept many different
gender identities fashion soon adapts to the
ideas, and as each day passes and as each
fashion season comes and goes the construct
of gender is being challenged. Within
this current season a new model has made
a historical move. Petr Nitka is the first
gender-neutral model to hit the runway at
Lakme Fashion Week.
Growing up in the Czech Republic proved
tough for Petr when they entered the
modeling world because no modeling agency
wanted to hire a gender–neutral model.
49–50
Many modeling agencies in the nation feel it
is too early for society to incorporate that
kind of representation. It was not until Petr
left for Australia for higher education that
they met photographer Bharathan Gangatheran.
Gangatheran shot Nitka and published the
photos in fashion magazines and the forward–
thinking fashion industry loved them. Nitka
was then invited to walk the runways at
South Africa’s Mens Fashion Week, but since
many organizers of the event felt the South
African general public was not ready for an
androgynous model, they hid Petr’s identity.
Although Petr Nitka’s identity has been
withheld from many global cultures Nitka was
never nervous to walk.
Now contracted with Indi models Petr has a
simple message for those wanting to follow
M E RCU RY
 their path, “My message is simple, be
yourself! Be who really are and do what you
like. Believing in yourself is the biggest
gift you can give yourself.”

Today, Nitka spends a lot of time in Prague

doing interviews and appearing on televi-
sion shows. Although many Czech citizens
and media are very open-minded about Nitka
being gender-fluid, they say that the Czech
fashion industry is still pretty appre-
hensive about them. Czech citizens love
seeing Nitka on television and celebrity
shows, but Czech fashion designers are not
ready yet. But that is all good with Petr.
Nitka recognizes that they don’t want to
be a typical model and they want to change
things up in society. Nitka wants to use
their gender-neutral modeling to change
the perspectives of those in countries
where homosexuality is illegal. These
countries include Russia, and Arabian and
African countries. Petr Nitka proudly calls
themselves the first gender-neutral model in
the world.

Another model breaking the boundaries in

fashion is Rain Dove, the six foot model
who walks both the womenswear and menswear
runways. Although Rain Dove expressed
themselves as an agenda model they have no
problem as modeling as a male, female, and
anything in between the binary. Applying for
a modeling casting call after losing a bet
with a friend resulted in Dove being casted
in a Calvin Klein show. When they returned
to the casting call the next day Dove found
themself in a room full of men and that
is when they realized that the directors
thought Dove was a man. When Dove insist-
ed on walking their career in the modeling
world was launched.

Despite being a successful androgynous model

today, Dove faced much discrimination in the
beginning. Countless times they have been
told that they can not be put in editorials
and campaigns because they do not look like
a woman. They faced discrimination outside
of the modeling world causing them to have

Androgyny’s Next Top Models M E RCU RY

 “…dress as the most effective
and comfortable version of
yourself…”
major anxiety around using public bathrooms.
This anxiety stems from being mistaken as a
man in the women’s restroom causing them to
be maced at least three times, and attacked
with a taser. Although Rain Dove has an
emerging successful career as an androgynous
model they are also a predominant activist.
Dove helped organize protests in North
Carolina over the House Bill 2
requiring transgender individuals to use
pubic bathrooms corresponding to the sex on
their birth certificates. Despite not being
transgender, Dove has been treated
similarly given their appearance. Rain Dove
is also going to be setting off a college
tour where they will be visiting colleges
and universities to talk speak about
gender capitalism.
One of Rain Dove’s most recent boycott is
New York Fashion Week 2017. The boycott
focused on not allowing the fashion industry
to dictate what types of fashion are seen
as acceptable. This boycott comes at a
special time, right after Trump stated that
women in the White House should dress like
women. Dove believes that no one, ad agency,
celebrity, or “president” should be able to
say what fashion is and is not. Dove has
Androgyny’s Next Top Models
stated, “Don’t dress as ‘gender’ or ‘sex’,
dress as the most effective and comfortable
version of yourself because you are the best
you, you are able to give your best to the
world so we can give our best too”.
Dove has partnered with Tomboy/X during this
53–54
boycott and the brand believes that everyone
needs to defend the progress that we have
made regarding gender and sexuality equality
and expression. Everyone should live the
lives that they want, and they should live
it unapologetically. They make it clear that
nobody should live as a version of themselves
that society wants to see.
Although the fashion industry is one of the
most accepting industries in the world there
will always be hardships for many within it.
Although these roads are tough to overcome
there is always room for new roads to be
paved. Do not let anyone or anything hold
you back from being who you are. We feature
these two aspiring models because they are
paving the way for new generations, not only
in fashion, but in the world. Remember to
be brave, be fearless, and don’t give a fuck
about every little thing in the world.
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 TRAVELER: PHUKET, WE’RE GOING TO THAILAND

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HOW FEMINISM IS DESTROYING THE ‘REAL MAN’

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DESIGNER: CHARLES JEFFREY

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TRENDSETTER: BACK TO THE BASICS
INFORMATION
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All illustrations were designed and executed
by the designer.
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